Split (3)

train · 35.8k rows

Subsets and Splits

No saved queries yet

Save your SQL queries to embed, download, and access them later. Queries will appear here once saved.

url stringlengths 27 124	title stringlengths 10 107	summary stringlengths 15 6.15k	article stringlengths 0 117k	step_headers stringlengths 0 5.75k
https://www.wikihow.pet/Leash-Train-a-Puppy	How to Leash Train a Puppy	To leash train a puppy, give your puppy lots of treats the first time you put a collar and leash on it. You can also let it run around inside with the leash on for a little bit so it gets used to it. Then, take your puppy for a walk and bring treats with you to reward good behavior. If your puppy pulls on the leash, stop walking and wait until it stops to continue. If your puppy sits or lays down, take a few steps back and offer it a treat so it comes running to you. Do this every day until your puppy is comfortable walking on a leash!	Be patient. This is the most important part of introducing a puppy to a leash and collar for the first time. No puppy has ever learn to be perfect on a leash in one day. Proper training involves confident, calm, and consistent practice with the dog. Develop a reward system. The easiest method is rewarding the puppy with small, easily chewable treats. These are tasty rewards for the puppy that are also quick enough to avoid distracting the dog from his training. Sometimes just playing a game of fetch or tug-of-war can be enough of a reward to reinforce positive behavior. Another good reward system, albeit more complex, is clicker training. The clicker allows you to more easily communicate what exactly your dog is doing right by making a clicking noise and delivering a treat when he does you like. Choose a collar and leash. A flat, light collar and light leash are great to begin with and allow your puppy to get accustomed to having something around his neck. There is no need to get any crazy choker collars, especially while the puppy is small and timid. Allow your puppy to get used to the collar. It is not uncommon for puppies to get nervous when attaching a collar for the first time. Some puppies will throw tantrums or try to chew on the collar. There are some general strategies you can try if your new pal doesn't seem to like his collar. Distract the dog. Try putting the collar on while you are playing with him, or while you're out in the yard. Reward the puppy. Bring out his favorite treat or toy, and give one to him as soon as you put the collar on. Loosen the collar. The collar should be snug around his neck, but not tight to the point which it causes discomfort. Introduce the leash. Start training your puppy at home rather than out on a walk so it doesn't get distracted. This can also cause some dogs to go crazy, while other dogs simply shut down and won't move. The first time you attach a leash, drop your end on the ground and let him run around. Play with the puppy, or introduce him to another dog and let them play while the leash is still dragging around. Make sure he doesn't get tangled in this process. Pick up the leash occasionally and call the dog to you, offering treats when he comes. Create a calm environment. Many dogs get extremely excited upon seeing a leash, and will bark, whine, or spin. If this is the case, stand perfectly calm with the leash in hand until he calms down. Remember to stay calm during your walks, the dog will pick up on your energy and are more likely to remain calm if you lead by example. Avoid having a set destination for your walk just in case your puppy doesn't respond well. Just take it around your area and let it lead the way. Carry treats with you. You should get in the habit of carrying small, easily chewable treats for your puppy during the training process. If the treats are too large and take too long to chew it can interrupt the training process. Some examples of good treats for training are small chunks of a hot dog or little pieces of cheese. Don't coax your dog with the treats during the walk. Instead, use them to reinforce good behavior. Be supportive and patient. Let the puppy adjust to the idea of being on a leash. If the dog looks nervous, bend down in front of him and pet him. You can also offer the dog small treats as you walk. Be patient with your pup as he gets used to being on a leash. You don't need to reward bad habits, but there are simple and effective ways to deal with bad behavior without getting upset. Stop bad behavior. You can stop bad habits from developing by addressing them every time they occur. Remember, you do not need to get angry and yell or hit the dog. There are more constructive and positive ways to reinforce good behavior without losing your cool. Some common examples of bad behavior and how to address them are below. The puppy pulls the leash. As soon as this happens, stop walking and stand still. Don't yank on the leash, just let the dog know that, when it pulls, it gets nowhere. Call the dog back to you, and give him a treat when he comes. If you consistently and calmly do this every time he pulls, he will quickly learn not to. The puppy sits or lays down. When a puppy resists going for a walk, take a few steps away, call him, and offer a treat. Start walking until your puppy resists again, and repeat the process. Again, with calmness and consistency, the puppy will learn to enjoy walking and being on the leash. Be consistent. This is the most important part of any kind of dog training. The dog is eager and happy to learn, all he needs is for you to properly communicate your expectations. When you consistently reward positive behavior and stop bad behavior, the dog will develop good behavior. However, if you are inconsistent and let the puppy pull on leash frequently, he will have a hard time knowing what you want. Walk your dog frequently. Continue to take your dog for walks, multiple times a day if possible. This will allow to continually reinforce good walking practice for your dog so he doesn't forget his training. Remember to stay patient while not rewarding negative behavior. Stay in front. This establishes that you are in control, and increases the dog's obedience on the leash. You may need to shorten the leash, and stop moving if he tries to pull. Call him back, give him a treat, and repeat. Continue to shorten the leash over time until he's used to walking right at your side or just behind you. Remember to stay calm and attentive. Don't play on your phone, or get tense or angry. Pay attention to other dog owners. If you are walking along a sidewalk or trail and notice a dog owner who seems to be nervous or weak, be prepared to deal with undesired behavior from their dog. Keep walking forward with your dog at your side, rewarding him with a treat if he does not pull on the leash in an effort to play with the other dog. Choose proper walking equipment. If your dog is prone to pulling, use a short leash (four to six feet). No-pull harnesses can decrease pulling, while regular body harnesses usually encourage the dog to pull. Avoid using retractable leashes, which make your job of training the dog significantly more difficult. Choker chains and prong collars often do not provide any advantage, unless training with a certified professional dog trainer.	Be patient. Develop a reward system. Choose a collar and leash. Allow your puppy to get used to the collar. Introduce the leash. Create a calm environment. Carry treats with you. Be supportive and patient. Stop bad behavior. Be consistent. Walk your dog frequently. Stay in front. Pay attention to other dog owners. Choose proper walking equipment.
https://www.wikihow.com/Store-Live-Lobster	How to Store Live Lobster	Before storing a live lobster in your fridge, wrap it in newspaper dampened with salt water. Next, place the lobster in a container with an ice pack and put the container in the darkest part of your fridge. After 5 hours, check the newspaper to make sure it hasn't dried out and replace it if necessary. If you have a fish tank for your lobster, fill it with salt water at a temperature between 35 and 45°F.	Choose wild lobster rather than farmed lobster. A live, healthy lobster will taste best and will be least likely to cause food poisoning. Ask your supermarket employees how long ago your lobster was caught and whether your lobster is wild or farmed. Purchase a lobster that was caught within the past several weeks in an ocean, not a shellfish farm. Wild lobsters are fresher and usually healthier than farmed lobsters. Purchase your lobster 48 hours or less before you plan to cook it. Lobsters generally last between 36-48 hours after purchase. Any longer and you risk them dying before you have a chance to cook them. Discard lobsters that die before you're ready to cook them. Shellfish must be cooked immediately after death to avoid food poisoning. Leave the rubber bands on their claws. After you purchase your lobster, avoid taking off the rubber bands until after your lobster has been cooked. Taking them off early will make storing them more difficult and put you at risk for getting pinched. Keeping the rubber bands on while you cook the lobsters will not change or detract from their taste. Check your lobsters for signs of life in its eyes and tail. Unless your lobster is close to death, it should respond to touch. To test more motionless lobsters, poke the lobster's eye and watch for movement. If you're a little squeamish about touching its eyes, touch its tail. If your lobster is alive, its tail should curl back. Live lobsters do not have a noticeable odor. If your lobster is still, doesn't respond to signs of life, and smells fishy, throw it out. Wrap the lobster in newspaper dampened with saltwater. Wrap your lobster in a few layers of cool, damp—not dripping wet—newspaper. Cool water will keep your lobster's metabolism low so they remain docile and sluggish. Dry lobsters are more likely to die before you're ready to prepare them. Use saltwater to dampen the newspapers. Tap water can kill your lobster. Put your lobster in a bag or container with an ice pack. Containers with a simple opening, like a cooler or a cardboard box, work well for storing lobsters. Store 1 or 2 lobsters in the container at a time to avoid contention between your lobsters. The colder your lobster is, the less it will move. If you do not use a cooler to store your lobster, add in at least 1 or 2 ice packs. Place the container in your fridge. Make enough room for your lobster's container and slide it carefully into the fridge. If possible, put it in the darkest or coolest corner of the fridge to keep your lobster's metabolism down. Lobsters with a low metabolism move and struggle less. Check on your lobster every 5-6 hours. Set a timer for 5-6 hours and, when the timer goes off, remove your lobster from the container to check its newspaper wrapping. If the newspaper is dry or warm, change the newspapers for new, damp wrapping. Leave your lobster in the fridge until you're ready to cook it. Do not keep your lobster out on the counter for any longer than a few minutes. Storing your lobster at room temperature can dry out your lobster's wrapping and cause premature death. Purchase a fish tank with a built-in filtration system. Go to an aquarium store and talk with the employees to find a tank suitable for lobsters. Be sure to choose a tank that has the following features: a built-in filtration system, temperature control, and breakage-resistant glass. Do not store lobsters in your sink or bathtub. Your lobster's tank will need saltwater and a filtration system to keep them alive. Fill the tank with 35–45 °F (2–7 °C) saltwater. Lobsters need saltwater to survive and putting them in freshwater tanks can kill them. Fill the tank with saltwater with a temperature of 35–45 °F (2–7 °C). The colder your lobster is, the slower its metabolism will be and the more placid it will become. If you're storing multiple lobsters in the same tank, cold water can prevent lobsters from fighting each other or breaking the glass. Measure your tank's water temperature every 4-6 hours. Use a thermometer made for aquariums or check your fish tank's built-in thermometer. Your water temperature should hover around 35–45 °F (2–7 °C). If it falls above or below that, consult your tank's manual. It should contain instructions on adjusting the temperature—if not, contact the store where you bought the aquarium. If you cannot change the tank's water temperature after about 15-20 minutes, transfer your lobsters to the fridge as you continue working on the tank. Check your fish tank's salinity every 4-6 hours with a hydrometer. The fish tank's salinity should be of 32 parts per thousand. If your tank monitors readings above or below those ranges, move your lobsters to the fridge and check your tank's manual for maintenance. Hydrometers can be purchased at most aquarium stores.	Choose wild lobster rather than farmed lobster. Purchase your lobster 48 hours or less before you plan to cook it. Leave the rubber bands on their claws. Check your lobsters for signs of life in its eyes and tail. Wrap the lobster in newspaper dampened with saltwater. Put your lobster in a bag or container with an ice pack. Place the container in your fridge. Check on your lobster every 5-6 hours. Leave your lobster in the fridge until you're ready to cook it. Purchase a fish tank with a built-in filtration system. Fill the tank with 35–45 °F (2–7 °C) saltwater. Measure your tank's water temperature every 4-6 hours. Check your fish tank's salinity every 4-6 hours with a hydrometer.
https://www.wikihow.com/Diagnose-a-Torn-Calf-Muscle	How to Diagnose a Torn Calf Muscle	To diagnose a torn calf muscle, look for common symptoms, like an audible pop or snap in your leg, throbbing pain, swelling, tenderness, and bruising. You may also have trouble standing or walking. If you think you may have a torn calf muscle, seek medical attention immediately so you can get a proper diagnosis.	Understand what can get injured in your calf. Your “calf muscle” is actually made up of three muscles that are attached to the Achilles tendon in the posterior lower leg. These three muscles are the gastrocnemius, the soleus, and the plantaris. Most of the injuries that occur to the calf are actually injuries to the gastrocnemius, the largest of the three. Your gastrocnemius crosses your knee and ankle joints. It is also made up of many fast-twitch muscle fibers. This combination puts it at high risk for straining and tearing because it is constantly subjected to rapid stretching and contraction. Your soleus crosses your ankle joint. It is mostly made up of slow-twitch muscle fibers. Because of this combination, it is less likely to be injured than your gastrocnemius. However, treatment is often different for injuries to the soleus. The plantaris doesn't do much in your calf. It is considered a largely vestigial muscle. If it is injured, treatment is the same as for a gastrocnemius injury. Your Achilles tendon connects these calf muscles to your heel bone. This tendon can also be injured and cause calf pain. Common injuries to the Achilles tendon include tendinitis or tendon rupture. Know what can cause a tear. Torn calf muscles are most likely to occur during strenuous exercise. They commonly occur when you are exercising and rapidly change direction or acceleration. This injury commonly happens after explosive movements with increased loading of the muscle, such as sports that require bursts of speed (e.g., hurdling, jumping, basketball, soccer). Contraction (sudden onset). Sudden bursts of speed from a completely stationary position are a common cause of a calf tear. Short track sprinters are very susceptible to torn calf muscles. Sudden changes in direction, such as those occurring when playing basketball or tennis, can also cause tears. Prolonged degradation. Over-work and overuse are other common factors that can eventually lead to a tear. This is seen in runners and football players. Football players have both contraction and prolonged running. Both of these factors combined leave them very vulnerable to a calf tear. “Weekend warriors,” or people who are only intermittently very physically active, often experience calf muscle tears. Men are more likely to experience these injuries than women. Recognize the symptoms of a torn muscle. The symptoms of a torn calf muscle are usually more immediate and obvious than the symptoms of a strain. They are often similar to the symptoms of a ruptured Achilles tendon. Symptoms include: feeling like you have been struck or kicked in the back of the leg an audible “pop” or “snap” in your leg sudden, severe pain in the calf muscle (usually throbbing) tenderness and swelling in the lower leg bruising and/or color change limited range of motion in the ankle trouble walking or standing on your toes limping Rest your legs. Get off your feet, elevate them and get some rest. If your legs are very painful and start swelling, you almost certainly have a calf injury that needs medical attention. You will probably start bruising in the calf area, especially with a tear, as there will be some internal bleeding. If you hear a “pop” sound or see swelling in your calf, visit an emergency room immediately. Your injury requires immediate medical attention. Swelling or bleeding in an area can lead to a condition called compartment syndrome, where not enough oxygen or nutrients can reach the muscles and nerves in the area due to increased pressure. It can happen after a fracture or badly bruised muscle, so if you think your injury is severe, get medical attention as soon as possible. You may end up needing surgery if you develop acute compartment syndrome. Contact your physician. It is important to be able to differentiate injuries to the specific muscles in your calf. You cannot do this on your own. Your doctor will perform tests such as physical examinations and MRIs to determine the extent of your injury. If you think you have torn a calf muscle, see your doctor immediately. If you try to diagnose and treat a torn calf muscle on your own, you could cause further, more severe injury. Ask your doctor about tests to examine your injury. Your doctor is likely to order an ultrasound or magnetic resonance imaging (MRI) scan of the affected area. An MRI will use magnetic waves and computer imaging to take 2-D and 3-D images of an area. It is used to diagnose internal injuries that simpler techniques such as X-rays cannot pick up. Your doctor may also order a magnetic resonance angiography (MRA) scan. This is a type of MRI that examines your blood vessels, often using a contrast dye to make them appear more clearly. The MRA can help detect if there is any damage or entrapment of your blood vessels, which could lead to conditions such as compartment syndrome. Follow your doctor’s instructions. Treatment of a torn calf muscle usually does not require surgery. It's critical to follow all of your doctor's instructions during your recovery period. If you do not, you could cause severe re-injury or trauma. Be patient: it can take up to 8 weeks to see recovery, and several more months before your calf feels fully back to normal. Usually, immediate treatment involves rest, ice, compression, and immobilization (with a splint etc.). Recovery treatment will usually involve physical therapy exercises, massage, and use of crutches. Recognize the symptoms of muscle cramps. Muscle cramps can cause severe pain in your lower legs by causing your muscles to suddenly contract. A sudden, intense cramp or spasm in your lower leg is sometimes called a “charley horse.” While these cramps can be extremely painful, they usually go away on their own or with minimal treatment. The symptoms of a charley horse include: Hard, tight calf muscles Sudden, sharp pain in the muscles “Lump” or bulge in the muscles Treat a muscle cramp. Muscle cramps and spasms tend to go away fairly quickly. You can speed this recovery process by stretching and using heat (or cold). Stretch your affected calf muscle. You can do this by putting your weight on the leg that is cramping. Bend your knee slightly. Alternately, you can sit with your affected leg stretched out in front of you. Use a towel to gently pull the top of your foot towards you. Apply heat. Use a heating pad, hot water bottle, or warm towel. Taking a warm bath or shower may also help. Heat can help relax tense muscles. Apply ice. Applying an ice or cold pack may help relieve the cramp. Apply ice for no longer than 15-20 minutes at a time, and always wrap the ice pack in a towel to prevent frostbite. You can also try massaging the cramping muscle. Recognize the symptoms of tendinitis. Tendinitis is caused by an inflammation of a tendon, one of the thick, Rope-like “cords” that connects your muscles to your bones. Tendinitis can happen anywhere you have tendons, but it commonly occurs in elbows, knees, and heels. Tendinitis can cause pain in your lower calf or heel. The symptoms of tendinitis include: Dull, aching pain that is worse when you move the joint A feeling of “crunching” or grating when you move the joint Tenderness or redness Swelling or lumps Treat tendinitis. Treatment of tendinitis is usually simple: rest, take over-the-counter painkillers, ice the affected area, use compression bandages, and elevate the affected joint. Recognize the symptoms of a strained soleus. A strained soleus muscle is less severe than a strained or torn gastrocnemius. This injury often happens in athletes such as daily or long-distance runners. Usually, strains to this muscle include the following symptoms: Tightness or stiffness in the calf muscle Pain that gets worse over the course of a few days, or even weeks Pain that gets worse after walking or jogging Mild swelling Recognize the symptoms of Achilles tendon rupture. Because it connects your calf muscles to your heel bone, the Achilles tendon can cause calf pain when it is injured. Injury to this tendon can happen when you exercise strenuously, fall, step into a hole, or jump improperly. You should seek medical attention immediately if you believe your Achilles tendon has been ruptured, as it is a serious injury. Symptoms of a ruptured tendon include: an audible “pop” or “snap” in your heel (often, but not always) pain, often severe, in the heel area that may extend into the calf swelling inability to bend your foot downward inability to use the injured leg to “push off” as you walk inability to stand on your toes using the injured leg Identify risk factors for an Achilles tendon rupture or tear. Knowing who is most at risk for an Achilles tendon rupture may help you determine whether this is the cause of your pain. People most at risk for tearing or rupturing the Achilles tendon include: Those between 30-40 years of age Men (5x more likely than women to develop a rupture) Those who play sports that involve running, jumping, and sudden bursts of movement Those who use steroid injections Those who use fluoroquinolone antibiotics, including ciprofloxacin (Cipro) or levofloxacin (Levaquin) Stretch. According to the American College of Sports Medicine, you should stretch your muscles at least twice a week. You do not have to stretch before you work out. Experts do recommend that you stretch after you work out, however. Doing exercises that increase your overall flexibility, such as yoga, will help you prevent muscle injuries. Try a towel stretch to gently stretch your calves. Sit upright with your leg extended in front of you. Place a towel around your foot and hold the ends. Gently pull your toes toward your body until you feel a stretch in your calf muscle. Hold for 5 seconds. Relax. Repeat 10 times. Repeat for the other leg. Use a resistance band to strengthen your calves. Sit upright with one leg extended in front of you. Point your toes up towards your head. Wrap a resistance band around your foot and hold the ends. While maintaining tension on the band, push towards the floor with the top of your foot. You should feel your calf muscle tighten. Return to the starting position. Repeat 10-20 times for each leg. Warm up before exercise. Use dynamic stretches to warm up before a workout. Unlike static stretches, which are usually held in the same position for a minute or more, dynamic stretches are similar to the motions of your workout. They are usually less intense. Try a brisk walk, either outside or on a treadmill. Walking lunges , leg swings, and other movements that get your blood flowing are a good warm up. You can also do some exercises on an exercise ball , such as light stretches. Take a break. Overuse or repetitive strain can create the right conditions for a calf muscle injury. Consider taking a break from your usual sports or activities and trying a new exercise.	Understand what can get injured in your calf. Know what can cause a tear. Recognize the symptoms of a torn muscle. Rest your legs. Contact your physician. Ask your doctor about tests to examine your injury. Follow your doctor’s instructions. Recognize the symptoms of muscle cramps. Treat a muscle cramp. Recognize the symptoms of tendinitis. Treat tendinitis. Recognize the symptoms of a strained soleus. Recognize the symptoms of Achilles tendon rupture. Identify risk factors for an Achilles tendon rupture or tear. Stretch. Warm up before exercise. Take a break.
https://www.wikihow.com/Cool-Your-Cat-Down-in-the-Summer	How to Cool Your Cat Down in the Summer	To cool your cat down in the summer, keep the air conditioner running during the day and use extra fans to improve air circulation in your home. Try to keep drapes and blinds closed to block out the sun's rays and minimize temperature fluctuations, and keep multiple water dishes available at all times. Brushing your kitty every day can prevent matted fur, which traps unnecessary heat near their bodies.	Run the air conditioning. If you have air conditioning, keeping your cat indoors will ensure that he stays cool too. Many of the things you do to keep the house cool for yourself will also benefit your cat, such as keeping the blinds, drapes, and doors closed. Make sure that your cat can go into a warmer room if she feels too cold. (Sometimes air-conditioning and fans can make things too cold and this may be irritating for a cat, after a while.) Even if your cat likes to spend time outside, it is recommended to keep your cat inside during the hottest part of summer days, which is between 11am and 6pm. Use fans to improve the air flow in your home. If you do not have air condition, fans and open windows are another good option to cool off your home and your cat. Place fans in front of open windows to move air through your home and cool it down. Make sure the fans you use are safe for your pet to be around by checking to see if the cover for the rotating blades is secure. Place one fan or more at floor level in a corner of the room facing towards the center of the room. This way the cat can lay at a distance that is comfortable for her to get some air movement over her fur. This air movement helps to cool down your cat in a way that is similar to sweating. Provide fresh drinking water at all times. Cats need access to water in order to stay hydrated. In addition, when your cat's blood temperature rises, sensors in the brain tell her to drink water in order to cool down and dilute the blood. Therefore, it is essential to make sure that your cat always has access to clean, fresh water. Provide multiple drinking bowls with a large surface area (such as dinner plates or dog bowls). Wider bowls encourage the cat to drink because cat do not like their whiskers to touch the sides of the bowl. Make sure that you replace the water at least once a day and keep it topped up at all times. Never let your cat drink from water than contains algae as the latter is toxic and may cause diarrhea, vomiting, seizures, and sudden death. Consider getting a cat drinking fountain. Many cats prefer to drink running water and a cat drinking fountain is a great way to do this. Let your cat choose a cool spot. Cats are smart about comfort at all times, including during the heat. Cats love to curl up in the bathtub or sink because porcelain stays cool even when it is hot outside. Because they are often cooler, cats sometimes prefer tiled areas of the house, such as the bathroom, laundry room, and kitchen. If your cat chooses a spot and seems comfortable, let her be. Allow your cat to be sedentary on hot days. Now is not the time to play energetic games with the cat. Chasing after a laser pointer or a wing-on-a-string is definitely out. Instead, encourage the cat to rest and take it easy. Muscular activity generates heat, which the cat doesn't not need on top of the already hot conditions. Make sure that your cat has access to shade. Take sensible precautions such as ensuring the cat has access to shade when outside, and does not have to stay in the full sun. This could be the shade form a tree or bush, or a garden umbrella. If your cat is indoors, make sure that she is not restricted to a room with lots of bright sunlight and that she can rest out of the glare of the sunshine. If you have an outdoor cat, make sure that you check any outdoor buildings and greenhouses before closing the doors. The building could become very hot and your cat could die as a result if he or she were to be locked inside. Cool down your cat with damp towels. Most cats do not like getting wet, but you can at help them to cool off a little with dampened towels. Simply dampen a cloth with cool water and gently stroke your cat with the cloth or towel from the top of its head and down the back. If the cat is very hot, gently wipe her with a wet towel as often as she will tolerate. Brush your cat daily. Matted fur traps heat; ensuring that the fur is not matted and allows air to flow through it will help to keep your cat cool. This is especially important for long-haired breeds of cats. Get into the routine of combing and brushing your cat during the coolest part of the day before she gets hot, such as first thing in the morning. She will be more willing to cooperate if she isn't already feeling cranky because of the heat. Avoid shaving your cat to the skin as this will expose your cat to the sun and can result in sunburn and risks skin cancer. Although it seems bizarre to wear a thick fur coat on a hot day, experts now believe the fur keeps heat out in the summer, as well as in during the winter. Thus shaving the coat may not help kitty to stay cool. However, if the coat is severely matted or tangled, it forms a shell over the cat's body. This shell means the coat doesn't work how it is meant to and so getting a professional to shave the coat is the best idea Create a cool retreat. You can help your cat cool down by making a cool, dark spot for her to retreat to when she gets too hot. Just place a cardboard box on its side and put it somewhere that is quiet and out of the way, such as in a closet, behind a chair, or near a cool spot in the house. Line it with a terry towel or other cool cotton fabric. Stick an ice pack inside a sock and place it into the retreat underneath the towel for an added cooling effect. Another good idea is to place towels or sheets over your cat's favorite spots. Doing so will create a cool barrier between your cat's fur and warmer surfaces. Watch for signs of heatstroke. Signs of heatstroke include excessive panting and rapid breathing, lethargy, bright pink ears, confusion, weakness and inability to stand, shaking, tremors, and possibly even seizures. A cat with heatstroke will also feel hot to the touch on the pads of her feet. If you suspect that your cat is suffering from heatstroke, place your cat on a cool surface right away, such as a tiled floor. Then turn on a fan and place it so that it is blowing on her to remove some of the heat. Cool your cat down with cool damp washcloths and provide water. If your cat appears to be suffering from heatstroke, place cool damp washcloths over her paws and offer her some water to drink right away. If she is too weak to drink the water, try to moisten her gums with water using a damp cloth. Avoid ice water or very cold water as the temperature difference between the extreme heat and extreme cold can send the cat into a form of shock. Call your cat’s veterinarian for advice. Your cat may need to be taken to see your veterinarian to treat her heatstroke. A veterinarian can provide intravenous fluids to reduce your cat's core temperature and maintain the blood supply to her organs. As your cat's temperature rises, her blood will become thicker and circulation to vital organs can be impaired. Call your cat's veterinarian right away if you suspect that your cat is suffering from heatstroke.	Run the air conditioning. Use fans to improve the air flow in your home. Provide fresh drinking water at all times. Let your cat choose a cool spot. Allow your cat to be sedentary on hot days. Make sure that your cat has access to shade. Cool down your cat with damp towels. Brush your cat daily. Create a cool retreat. Watch for signs of heatstroke. Cool your cat down with cool damp washcloths and provide water. Call your cat’s veterinarian for advice.
https://www.wikihow.com/Buy-and-Sell-Cars-for-Profit	How to Buy and Sell Cars for Profit	To buy and sell cars for profit, purchase cars sold by their owners through car auctions, classifieds, or Craigslist, since buying cars from dealers usually isn't profitable. Be sure to inspect the condition of each car thoroughly and give it a spin to see how it drives before buying it. Next, get any mechanical issues fixed and deep-clean the car so that it's ready to sell. Then, research the baseline price, adjust the price as needed, and try to work with buyers and sellers who want to move quickly to get the best deals!	Search car auctions, classifieds, eBay, and Craigslist for cars sold by their owner. You will rarely be able to buy a car from a dealer and flip it for a profit, as these cars are generally sold at their highest price. Random people, however, don't have to pay employees or rent on a lot, and can afford to let go of their used car for much less than a dealer can. Confine your search to these sellers for the best results. Don't be immediately turned off by "salvage titles," which are often some of the best deals on the market. Be sure, however, to ask what happened to earn the title. A broken window is a lot different than a cracked axle, but both could cause the car to be considered salvage. Carfax and other title check sites are good ways to get a cheap vehicle history for bigger buys. Use online appraisal sites to get a good idea of the base price. Places like Edmunds and Kelly Blue Book let you input the car's make, model, year, and condition and see the general price. This is often a good baseline for negotiation, and can be used to effectively bargain if someone is grossly overestimating the price. These sites usually have ratings too, letting you see if the car has common issues to look for or has a record of reliability. Some tips to make the most of these sites include: Note the "dealer's price." You can usually bargain down to the price they expect from a dealership, because there will be much less paperwork for both of you. Check several sites at once, and always assume the car will be in worse shape than it is -- most people will try and sell at the highest price they can find online, and will err towards a better condition on their advertisement. Always start the car from a cold engine. Be wary of any cars you come across that are already on and running. It takes the most energy and momentum to get a cold car started, and you can often hear or feel any issues with a bad motor as it lugs to a start. Be on the lookout for: Cars that don't start easily or smoothly. Loud noises or grinding sounds in the engine. Ticking, whining, or shaking as the car starts. Check the oil levels and oil color. As you do, ask about the car's history, starting with its last oil change. The lighter the oil, the better, and it shouldn't ever be dark brown or sludge-like, especially if it has been changed in the past six months. If you see any water or solid bits (like metal) in the oil, walk away -- repairs won't be cheap. Have the seller rev the engine 5-6 times and watch the exhaust. If produces black or thick smoke you should walk away, especially if the oil levels are also low. Search under the car for leaks once it's been running a while. A little water is to be expected. But oil or radiator fluid is a big no-no, and the car likely shouldn't be bought. Another good way to check this is to have someone rev the engine with the radiator cap off. If you see air bubbles in the radiator when the car revs, walk off -- the head gasket is likely blown. Is the engine temperature high? If so, and there is hot water leaking from the car (not fluid or oil!), then you might be in for a bargain. This could just be a leaky house causing the overheating, meaning you can cheaply fix an expensive-seeming problem. Pop the hood to listen and look at the engine. There shouldn't be loud ticking noises or gurgling, and it's pretty obvious when something doesn't sound quite right. Have someone rev the engine in neutral and watch to make sure it still sounds good as you watch for any issues. Turn the car off and check the belts and hoses, looking for corrosion, rust, or heavy wear. While 1-2 belts and hoses are easy to fix, a complete overhaul could cut away any profits you hoped to make. Drive the car before buying whenever possible. If you're a true bargain hunter with some mechanical skills, you might buy a non-working car cheaply if you believe you can get it running. But in all other cases, you want to take the car for a spin. Test a variety of speeds and variations, ideally testing it in both a neighborhood and on a highway or road where you can get the speed up safely. As you do, pay careful attention to: Steering: is it smooth and responsive? Braking: Does it stop the car quickly, especially in quick-stop situations? Most importantly, does the car stop in a straight line? Transmission: Does it shift smoothly? On automatic cars, you should be able to get into drive and reverse in less than a second and a half. Any longer delay could be a bad sign. Electronics and Features: Do the lights, windows, and AC work? Is the odometer still running or is it stuck (and do they know how long ago it stopped running, if so?). Use any and all perceived defects to drive the price down. This is especially crucial if they didn't mention these deficits in the ad posting. Most people are honest and upfront about issues the car might have, but you should be constantly searching for other issues to use as a negotiating tool. If there are minor to serious issues that they didn't tell you, but you're confident can be fixed cheaply, you can often get serious discounts. As you're examining the car, show them issues as you find them. Most people trust a calm, thorough buyer if you walk them through your tests and issues, making them more likely to take your word on price. Gauge their own car knowledge as well. If they seem lost around an engine, you can use this to your advantage to play up any perceived issues. Be sure to get the title and copy of the car's registration. If they don't have a title on hand, you should be very wary about buying the car. The title is required to get the car registered, and to subsequently get insurance for the vehicle. If they can't hand over the title, you better be sure the car is worth the hassle of getting it re-titled. For more expensive cars, use a site like CarFax to get the title history and avoid any unpleasant surprises. Determine your lowest possible price and your target price before putting the car on the market. Use the same appraisal sites you used when buying the car to set a reasonable price, using Craigslist and local ads to find nearby buyers. If you don't care how quickly the car sells, start the price on the high end. If you want it gone quickly, keep it on the lower end and note that you're firm on the price. Even if you say you're firm on the price, people will still be looking to negotiate. The phrase OBO ("or best offer") is used to indicate that you're willing to negotiate on the price, which is a good way to convince people to call you. If the car is high value or a rare find, you might be able to make more money at an auction than a direct sale. Know, of course, that all auctions are a bit of a gamble: you might get way more than you hoped, but you could also get far less. Get the car checked out by a mechanic and fix any issues, as long as they are cheap enough to still resell at a profit. This is why you must set your price point early on. If the cost of the repairs makes the care more expensive than you can sell it for, the repairs are obviously not worth it. However, if you can get a cheap car with relatively cheap fixes, you'll be able to charge more than it cost for the repairs. While buying a car that needs repairs can be a roll of the dice, smart buyers can turn big profits on small issues that the original seller was too lazy to fix. Be sure to check online if the car has any common issues or problems. Can you do anything to convince potential buyers the problem has been handled? What repairs can you do yourself? Older cars tend to have pages of advice on home repairs online, and more of them are in the range of a home mechanic than you might imagine. Get the car as clean as you possibly can. A clean car is much easier to sell, especially for a higher price. Furthermore, vacuuming and cleaning the windows costs you nothing, despite potentially making the difference between cash in hand and a missed sale. Be sure to: Wipe down all surfaces with a clean cloth. Vacuum all surfaces, including under and around the mats. Rinse and wash off the exterior, including hubcaps. For higher-priced cars, consider a coat of wax to give it a clean sheen. Show any obvious defects to the buyer, and include them in your ad. If they know the problems beforehand and still show up, they can't use them to drive the price down. If they find issues you didn't mention, however, they suddenly have a few bargaining chips. Being honest upfront may seem like it is admitting to a bad sale, but it only brings in buyers who will be serious about the purchase. While you may be able to skate some smaller issues past a buyer without them noticing, people will generally pay more to a seller they find honest and trustworthy. Be sure to provide plenty of pictures, especially of problem areas you noted (like a ripped seat). This inspires confidence and can help people stop worrying about potential defects. Change the oil, radiator fluid, and wiper fluid if necessary to instantly raise the price. Unless these were done recently by the seller, this is a cheap way to clean the car up and raise the price. Be sure to note these services in your ad, as buyers will be happy to hear that they don't have to worry about these little hassles and are generally willing to pay a bit more. Be sure to note the registration status as well. If it is almost up, people will have to pay $100 or more in order to re-register it, and they may factor that into their bargaining. Be aware of state-specific requirements, like California's smog tests. If you can get this done ahead of time you can usually charge more than the test's cost, as you'll have eliminated the hassle of making them pay for a smog test. Keep tabs on what other cars sell for, even if you're not interested in buying them right now. For example, imagine you see a clean 1987 BMW e30 sell for $2,500 at an auction. While this is far too high to buy and sell for a profit, you'll know that a similar car on sale for $1,500 might be a good investment later on. And, when you sell it, you can comfortably keep the price at $2,000 or higher, knowing someone will pay that much. Watch or check out car auctions and car sale shows to get a good idea of prices on a variety of cars. Check into car appraisal sites regularly and watch the newspapers for car sales even when you're not in the market. The more cars and prices you see, the sharper your sales mind will become. Look for buyers and sellers who want to move quickly with little hassle. If you're working with other people trying to make a profit you're going to both be fighting for every penny. But people who just want a car off of their hands, or buyers who want a car to get them around without hassle, are going to be much easier to negotiate with. When buying cars, looks for phrases like "getting rid of," "need to make some quick cash," or other indicators that someone wants the car gone, no matter what the price. When selling cars, pay attention to those that move quickly or seem excited before they've even seen the car. Be sure to ask why or what they want the car for, as this can clue you into their financial situation. Desperation signals good deals. Bargain like a shark. Buying and selling cars isn't for the faint of heart. If you want to make any money in this game, you're going to have to learn to negotiate. While everyone has different strategies, the best overarching principle is to be honest with yourself beforehand. Ask yourself two questions -- what do you want to pay for the car, ideally, and what is the maximum you're willing to pay. Start a little lower than the first number, and work your way slowly to the second. Be honest with the seller, "I can only buy/sell this car for $1,200 -- can you meet me there?" If they can't, you can walk away. Always have the cash on hand, and ask potential buyers to do the same. If you can pay right on the spot, you can often get them to lower their price to save everyone the hassle of meeting again. Don't get emotional about this -- you're only buying the car for the money. If they don't meet your pre-planned price, get out. Bring a friend along, especially if they are knowledgeable about cars. Two heads are better than one, and if you've got a friend who is handy with a wrench it pays dividends to bring them around. Not everyone knows everything about cars, but that doesn't mean you can't still make a profit. Your friend can rev the engine for you, watch the car as you take test drives or inspect the motor, and point out little defects you may miss. In general, it is a good idea to have a friend along for online deals to stay safe. Always meet people in a public place. Feel free to leave cars and come back later for a better price. Unless you are totally confident that a car is a bargain, leave your phone number and have them call you about the sale. Remember that these cars are just there to make money, so don't get too emotionally attached if they sell to someone else while you're playing hardball. If you really want to get good prices, waiting 2-3 days will help your gauge the seriousness of the seller, as well as the overall condition of the car. If it still hasn't sold in a few days, you can almost always ask to cut 10-25% off the price. Trust your instincts when dealing with buyers and sellers. If a car doesn't feel right or a deal feels shady, there is no shame in walking away. Hundreds of used cars are on the market at any one time, and your goal here is to turn a profit, not take undue risks. If you're wary that someone is taking advantage of you or neglecting the entire story, trust your gut and walk away. There will always be more deals on the road. Look the seller in the eye and ask them if you're making the right choice buying the car. They should be able to look right back at you and shake your hand.	Search car auctions, classifieds, eBay, and Craigslist for cars sold by their owner. Use online appraisal sites to get a good idea of the base price. Always start the car from a cold engine. Check the oil levels and oil color. Search under the car for leaks once it's been running a while. Pop the hood to listen and look at the engine. Drive the car before buying whenever possible. Use any and all perceived defects to drive the price down. Be sure to get the title and copy of the car's registration. Determine your lowest possible price and your target price before putting the car on the market. Get the car checked out by a mechanic and fix any issues, as long as they are cheap enough to still resell at a profit. Get the car as clean as you possibly can. Show any obvious defects to the buyer, and include them in your ad. Change the oil, radiator fluid, and wiper fluid if necessary to instantly raise the price. Keep tabs on what other cars sell for, even if you're not interested in buying them right now. Look for buyers and sellers who want to move quickly with little hassle. Bargain like a shark. Bring a friend along, especially if they are knowledgeable about cars. Feel free to leave cars and come back later for a better price. Trust your instincts when dealing with buyers and sellers.
https://www.wikihow.com/Grow-Pistachios	How to Grow Pistachios	To grow pistachios, start by lining a plastic baggie with a damp paper towel and adding 5 raw pistachio seeds to the bag before sealing it. Once the seeds start to sprout, remove them from the bag and plant them in a plastic cup filled with damp soil. Then, transfer the plants into bigger pots as they grow. When it's time to transplant the trees, dig holes twice as wide as the root balls, removing any stones or debris that could hinder their growth. After you plant the trees, water them deeply once a month.	Buy raw pistachio seeds. Ideally, you should buy directly from a nursery, as you'll usually get a better quality product. However, it's also possible to grow trees from seeds bought in a grocery store. If you do this, make sure they are not salted or roasted. Otherwise they won't germinate and will be useless for growing your own pistachios. You should be able to buy raw pistachios seeds from health food stores and some grocery stores. Keep in mind that pistachio trees are unisex (either male or female) and you won't know the sex until the tree is first supposed to bear fruit, seven to eight years into its life. Female pistachio trees are the only ones that will have fruit, but they need a male tree to fertilize them. As such, you should plant multiple trees to maximize your chances of having both female and male trees. If you purchase a grafted sapling or a cutting, you can determine the sex of your tree by the sex of the parent tree. They will be the same. Place a damp paper towel in a plastic baggie. Fold up a standard paper towel until it's just small enough to fit in the sandwich bag. Slide it into the bag. Using a mug or measuring cup, add just enough water to moisten the paper towel. The exact amount of water you use will vary depending on the absorbency of your paper towel. Add the pistachio seeds to the plastic baggie. Don't put too many seeds in the same baggie; about five seeds should do. Ideally, you should use a resealable sandwich bag. Using plastic bags with holes in them or an improper seal will hinder the germination of your pistachio seeds. Seal the bag once the seeds have been added. Once you've put the seeds in, you should be ready to wait at least a week for the seeds to germinate. Keep the plastic baggie at room temperature, in a location where it won't be disturbed by children or pets. Transplant the seeds when you see sprouts. The sprouts will look like small green strands and should eventually burst from the seeds. As soon as you see these, you should transfer each seed over to a plastic party cup filled with soil. Make sure to drill a hole at the bottom of the cups for proper drainage. Water them just enough to keep the soil damp; too much water will hinder the tree's growth. As the plant grows, you'll need to transplant it into bigger pots until it's time to plant it outside. Consider buying a grafted tree in lieu of seeds. If you don't want to wait for seeds to germinate, or you want to make sure you get a fruit-bearing tree, you can buy a grafted tree from a nursery. These are female trees with a single male branch attached, which allows the tree to fertilize itself. This way, you'll just need to grow the tree rather than deal with the seeds. Dig a hole for your pistachio tree. The hole should be as deep as the root ball that's formed at the bottom of your pistachio tree. It should be twice as wide as the root ball. Use a shovel or a rake to break up the soil at the edges of the hole which will allow the roots to spread more easily. Before planting pistachio trees, you should make sure you live in the right climate. They need hot, dry summers to thrive, and don't do too well in excessive humidity. During cold winters, pistachio trees also have a period of dormancy. This is normal. Place the plant in the hole. Make sure the plant is as vertical as you can get it. You can use a level if you want to make sure it's completely vertical. Once it's in the hole, use your fingers to gently pull the roots away from the ball and down into the soil. Start by pulling where the roots meet the trunk. Fill up the hole. Pick out stones, plants and weeds from the pile of soil. This kind of debris can hinder the growth of your plant. Use a rake or a shovel to transfer the dirt back into the hole. To prevent any air pockets from forming in the soil, water it as you place it back in the hole. Water your tree deeply every month. Pistachio trees are used to dry climates and don't require a lot of water. A monthly deep watering should be sufficient to keep them healthy. If you notice that the tree's leaves start to turn yellow, that means it's getting too much water and you need to give it less. You should stop watering your pistachio trees around October; this will allow them to go dormant and prepare for the winter. Shake the trees. You'll know the pistachios are ripe when the shell pops open and the meat inside goes from green to more of a reddish color. It's important to harvest ripe pistachios as soon as possible, since they become vulnerable to bugs and disease when they ripen. Shaking the tree is enough to harvest ripe pistachios; they'll fall from the branches themselves. To make pistachio collection easier, spread a tarp under the tree before shaking it. Note that pistachios are biennial bearers, meaning that they tend to produce a small crop one year and a larger crop the next year in cycles. If you have a lot of trees to harvest, you may want to consider using mechanical agitators. Check the pistachios for mold. Because pistachios open as they ripen, they're vulnerable to mold and diseases. You should check any harvested pistachios to ensure there's no mold forming on the meat. This mold can release aflatoxin which are carcinogens. Enjoy! If you're harvesting pistachios for your own consumption, dig in and enjoy! If you're harvesting commercially, you can either roast them for packaged snacks or use them in the preparation of other foods.	Buy raw pistachio seeds. Place a damp paper towel in a plastic baggie. Add the pistachio seeds to the plastic baggie. Transplant the seeds when you see sprouts. Consider buying a grafted tree in lieu of seeds. Dig a hole for your pistachio tree. Place the plant in the hole. Fill up the hole. Water your tree deeply every month. Shake the trees. Check the pistachios for mold. Enjoy!
https://www.wikihow.com/Set-up-a-Tropical-Freshwater-Aquarium	How to Set up a Tropical Freshwater Aquarium	To set up a tropical freshwater aquarium, start by lining the bottom of a tank with 2-4 inches of rinsed aquarium gravel. Then, fill the tank with dechlorinated water, and add some live plants and decorations. Next, install a filter to keep the water clean, and hook up a heater and thermometer so you can keep the water at a warm enough temperature for tropical fish. Finally, before you add any tropical fish to your tank, do a fishless cycle to build up bacteria in the filter.	Choose a sturdy benchtop or aquarium stand to support your tank. While some tanks come with bases that are designed to support their weight, standalone tanks will need somewhere sturdy to sit. Find an empty table, bench, or another spot that will be able to hold your tank while it is full of water. 1 litre (34 fl oz) of water weighs 1 kilogram (35 oz). In a big tank, this can add up quickly to become very heavy. Make sure that your tank will be properly supported and that you won't need to move it once it's full of water. If you don't have anywhere to place your aquarium, you can purchase an aquarium stand online of from your local pet store that will be able to support the tank. Keep the tank away from direct sunlight, cold breezes, or vibrations. Tropical fish are very sensitive to temperature and noise, so their tank should be safe from anything that might disrupt them. Place the tank in a location that won't get a lot of direct sun or wind from open windows. The tank should also be far away from any speakers that may cause harsh vibrations. Keeping the aquarium in the corner of a room should help avoid many of these potential issues. This will also reduce the chance of the tank getting knocked over by accident. Make sure there are electrical sockets nearby. Your tank will need to have a heater, a filter, and a light, which will all require a nearby electrical socket. When choosing a location for your tank, check that there are adequate power sockets nearby to avoid having to run extension cables all over the place. You should also ensure that there's no chance of any cords coming from the aquarium's heater or filter being pulled out by young children or excitable pets. Keep the cords tucked away to ensure they are always plugged in. Place the tank out of reach of other pets. If you have a cat or dog, they may be fascinated by the aquarium and the wildlife inside. Even though your aquarium will have a lid on it, some ambitious animals may try and get inside to catch the fish. Find somewhere to place the tank that will reduce the chances of any curious creatures from getting inside. Keeping your aquarium on a sturdy surface high off the ground will reduce the chances of pets disrupting it. If you have cats, you may also need another barricade to keep your cats from getting into the tank. Alternately, make sure there aren't any other surfaces nearby that your cat could climb or jump off of to get to the tank. Put down a 5 to 10 cm (2.0 to 3.9 in) layer of rinsed aquarium gravel. Purchase a bag of aquarium gravel or another substrate material from your local pet store. Rinse the gravel with clean water in a bucket or pasta strainer, before scooping it into the tank. Start with 5 centimetres (2.0 in) near the front, sloping up to around 10 centimetres (3.9 in) nearer the back. Use a scoop or small trowel to add gravel to your tank rather than pouring it in, as this will reduce the chances of you scratching, damaging, or weakening the tank's glass. Aquarium gravel or other substrates should be available from your local pet store or online. Fill the tank with water. Place a small dish or bowl on the gravel near the bottom of your tank. Use a hose, small bucket, or large jug to begin adding water to the tank. Pour the water directly onto the dish or bowl, so that it can flow more softly into the tank and not disturb the gravel. Leave around 5 centimetres (2.0 in) of space at the top of the tank. This will stop the water from overflowing when you add plants or other decorations. The water in your tank will need to be dechlorinated. You could use filtered or bottled water to fill it up or use tap water that has been treated with a dechlorinator. Dechlorination tablets should be available online or from your local pet store. Add some plants to the aquarium. These can help oxygenate the water and give your tank a more natural look. Purchase some live or artificial aquarium plants from your local pet store and place their roots into the gravel to plant them. Most aquariums will have the taller plants nearer the back and some shorter plants in the front. Some great aquarium plants could be java moss near the front, water wisteria near the middle, and an aponogeton ulvaceus bulb near the back. Spruce the tank up with a few decorations. Some colorful artificial decorations, such as a small shipwreck or a few larger rocks, can help break your tank up and give your fish somewhere to be alone. Add 1 or 2 bulkier decorations near the sides of your tank to make it look more interesting. Leave roughly 1/3 of the tank empty for your fish to swim around in freely. They should be able to interact with or hide in the decorations when they want to, without being overcrowded by other things in the tank. Decorations for your tank could include some larger and well-washed rocks, toy shipwrecks, or almost anything else that you want to put in. See what ideas you can come up with! Avoid putting plastic, ceramic, loose driftwood, or glass in the tank. The plastic and ceramic can leach chemicals if left in water over time. Driftwood that hasn't been properly treated may be home to some harmful bacteria, and glass may hurt your fish. If you're unsure about a possible decoration for your tank, look online or ask at your local pet store for more advice. Treat the water for chlorine. The small amounts of chlorine found in most tap water will be dangerous to any fish you add to the aquarium. To prevent any fish from getting ill, treat the water with a tap water conditioner to get rid of the chlorine. Follow the manufacturer's instructions on your conditioner for the best results. Tap water conditioners should be available online or from your local pet store. Insert a water filter into the tank. The water filter will help get rid of contaminants in your tank's water and keep it clean and clear. Purchase a water tank filter online or from your local pet store and follow the manufacturer's instructions to install it in your aquarium. There are many, many different types of filters that you can install to keep your aquarium clean and clear. Do some research on different filters for different tank sizes, systems, and price ranges to help determine which is right for your needs. Add a heater and thermometer to regulate the temperature. Tropical fish will normally require warmer water to thrive in, so a heater and a thermometer are essential. Attach an aquarium heater to the back of your tank and plug it in to begin warming the water. Stick a thermometer onto the front of the glass to keep an eye on the temperature and adjust the heater accordingly. Make sure that your heater is installed with a drip loop. This is a small loop or dip in the cable just before it plugs into the wall socket. The drip loop will allow water to run down the cable and drip off the bottom of the loop rather than running into your electrical socket. The required temperature for your aquarium will depend on the fish you want to keep in it. Research the comfortable temperature for each fish before you purchase it to make sure it can thrive in your aquarium. Don't plug the heater in for 30 minutes after you put it into the tank. Otherwise, the sudden shift in temperature may cause your heater to shatter. Test your water to make sure it’s safe for fish. There are many factors of water that can make it unsafe for fish, such as the pH level or the level of ammonia. Purchase an aquarium water test kit and follow the manufacturer's instructions to test the water. Here are some things you should be looking out for: The pH level of your aquarium should be between 6.0 and 8.0. If it's too low, raise the pH of your fish tank, such as by adding baking soda. If it's too high, lower the pH of your fish tank, like by adding driftwood. The ammonia, nitrate, and nitrite levels will all be managed naturally over time. However, no fish should be added until there is no ammonia or nitrite in the tank, and you begin to get a reading for nitrate. You should test the water at least once each month to ensure it is safe. Place the hood and tank light over the aquarium. The hood will stop anything unwanted from getting into the aquarium, and the lamp will help the live plants in your tank thrive. If your hood doesn't have a lamp included, purchase an 18- to 40-watt aquarium lamp online or from your local pet store. Make sure your lamp is also plugged in with a drip loop to reduce the chance of electrocution or electrical failure. If you are keeping live plants in your tank, you'll need at least 1 watt for every 1 litre (34 fl oz) in your tank. Otherwise, any lamp between 18- and 40-watts will work. Keep the lamp on a timer so that it is only on for 10 to 12 hours each day. Leaving it on for any longer than this can increase the temperature, rates of water evaporation, and algae growth. Light timers should be available from your local hardware or electronics store. Some pet stores may also have them. Do a fishless cycle to build up bacteria in the filter. There are many bacteria that need to build up in your fish tank before it will be safe for fish to swim in it. Leave the filter to cycle for between 2 days and up to 1 week in order to build up the bacteria in your filter. Continue cycling your tank until the water is safe for fish. To make this process go faster, add a small sprinkle of fish food to your tank, or ask your local pet store for some gravel or a dirty filter pad with plenty of good bacteria already on it. The water in your tank will need to have very low levels of ammonia and nitrites in order to be safe. You should just begin to see nitrates being produced when the water becomes safe. Choose 1 or 2 tropical fish to begin with. Adding too many fish to the water at once can throw off the balance of ammonia, nitrates, and bacteria that you've built up. Choose 1 or 2 tropical fish that are easy to care for to start off your new aquarium. African cichlids and neon tetras make for great first fish in your tropical aquarium. If you can't find any at your local pet store, talk to an employee to see if they have any recommendations of a first tropical fish to buy. Whichever fish you buy, make sure you research the elements they require from a tank to check that you can keep them happy and healthy. It's easiest to start with 2 fish of the same species if you're setting up an aquarium for the first time. Make sure that the fish you choose are compatible with each other! Some fish will attack, stress, or even eat other species of fish. Look online or ask at your local pet store when adding new fish to your tank. Turn off the lights in the aquarium. Bright lights in the tank when your fish are first introduced will likely stress them out and make them take longer to adjust to their new home. Turn off the lamp in your tank, and make sure there are plenty of hiding places so your fish can adjust to swimming around at their own pace. You can turn the lamp back onto its regular timer once the fish have adjusted to the tank and are swimming around by themselves. If your fish are stressed out, they may become sick and die more easily. Anything you can do to reduce their stress will only make them happier and healthier. Let the fish acclimate to the water before adding them to the tank. Float the plastic bag that your new fish came in on top of your aquarium to equalize the temperatures. After 20 minutes or so, add water from the tank to the bag to double the amount of water the fish can swim in. Wait another 20 minutes before scooping the fish out of the bag and into the tank with a net. Pouring the fish straight into new water will shock them, which can be detrimental to their health. This will help them adjust to the water in the tank slowly. Avoid mixing water from the bag into the water in the tank, as this can be detrimental to the tank water. Don't feed your fish on their first day in the tank. They'll likely be too stressed to eat, so the food will sink to the bottom and rot. Feed them every other day for 4 to 6 weeks after this, before changing to the recommended feeding schedule for your fish. Watch the fish for signs of illness. Keep an eye on your fish over the next few days to make sure they are adjusting to the aquarium properly. If your fish seems inactive or slow-moving, check that they aren't ill and treat them properly if they seem unwell. There are many different indicators that your fish may be stressed or unwell. If they are not eating, spending a lot of time near the surface, sticking to the bottom of the tank, or not eating, it could be a sign that something is wrong. Keep an eye on your fish's skin as well. Any changes, tears, or colored spots could be a sign that your fish is ill and needs to be treated for a new illness. Test the water every day for at least 1 month. As your fish begin living in the tank, eating food, and producing waste, they may begin throwing off the balance of your aquarium. Test the water in your tank every 1 or 2 days to make sure the pH level stays the same, and the ammonia levels don't begin to rise. Raise and lower the pH of your fish tank as you need to to keep it within the comfortable range for your fish. If you notice the levels of ammonia creeping up in your fish tank, change the water and avoid over-feeding your fish to lower ammonia levels in the tank. Most water testing kits will have indicator strips that you can either dip into the water or drop water onto, with the indicators changing colors depending on levels. Check the manufacturer's instruction for more specific advice on how to use and read the indicators in your own set. Add more fish after 4 to 6 weeks. You should give your first few fish plenty of time to adjust to their new home before adding any more fish to the tank. Begin adding new fish to the aquarium after 4 to 6 weeks if you want to, making sure that every fish can live comfortably together and that they are added to the tank safely. There are many different reasons that different species of fish won't be able to live together. Make sure that your fish are compatible before adding them to the same tank.	Choose a sturdy benchtop or aquarium stand to support your tank. Keep the tank away from direct sunlight, cold breezes, or vibrations. Make sure there are electrical sockets nearby. Place the tank out of reach of other pets. Put down a 5 to 10 cm (2.0 to 3.9 in) layer of rinsed aquarium gravel. Fill the tank with water. Add some plants to the aquarium. Spruce the tank up with a few decorations. Treat the water for chlorine. Insert a water filter into the tank. Add a heater and thermometer to regulate the temperature. Test your water to make sure it’s safe for fish. Place the hood and tank light over the aquarium. Do a fishless cycle to build up bacteria in the filter. Choose 1 or 2 tropical fish to begin with. Turn off the lights in the aquarium. Let the fish acclimate to the water before adding them to the tank. Watch the fish for signs of illness. Test the water every day for at least 1 month. Add more fish after 4 to 6 weeks.
https://www.wikihow.com/Diagnose-and-Treat-Pancreatitis-in-Cats	How to Diagnose and Treat Pancreatitis in Cats	If you think your cat has pancreatitis, look for a lack of appetite and severe lethargy, which are the two most common symptoms. When you notice your cat seeming unusually weak or sleepy, take it to the vet immediately to get a diagnosis and treatment plan. While pancreatitis doesn't have a standard cure, your vet will give your cat around-the-clock care until the inflammation goes down, so you should be prepared to potentially spend thousands of dollars. Once your kitty is home from treatment, make sure it gets plenty of water and rest to help it recover. Consider moving food bowls and litter boxes closer to your cat's resting area so it doesn't have to use a lot of energy to get its basic needs met.	Recognize possible causes. There are a number of known causes of feline pancreatitis. However, feline pancreatitis sometimes occurs for reasons unknown. Some of the documented causes of pancreatic inflammation in cats include: Inflammatory bowel disease or liver disease. Diabetes mellitus. Abdominal trauma (such as being hit by a car). Infections (such as toxoplasmosis or feline distemper). Scorpion stings. Notice any behavioral changes. This two most common symptoms of pancreatitis in cats are lack of appetite and severe lethargy. If your cat has stopped eating and/or seems unusually sleepy, weak, or lethargic, take them to see the vet immediately. Pancreatitis can be lethal if not treated right away. Lack of appetite and lethargy can be symptomatic of many other conditions as well. Any time your cat stops eating or seems listless they need to be taken to a vet right away. Look for additional symptoms. Beyond simple lethargy and loss of appetite, there are other symptoms that can indicate inflammation of the pancreas. If you observe any of these symptoms in your pet, seek the advice of a veterinarian. Other symptoms can include: Fever. Weight loss. Dehydration. Depression. Increased heart rate. Difficulty breathing. Be prepared to answer some questions. When you visit your vet, you must bring along some information. In order to properly diagnose your cat, your vet will ask a series of questions. You should be able to explain: The complete medical history of the cat (to the best of your knowledge). What (if any) medications your cat is taking. What symptoms you have noticed. When these symptoms began. If your cat has experienced any physical trauma. Run some tests. In order to determine what is ailing your pet, the vet will need to perform a series of tests. In order to diagnose pancreatitis, these tests will likely include: A physical examination. Blood work. An ultrasound. A biopsy (if the cat is well enough to undergo the procedure). X-rays (to rule out other problems or asses trauma). Make sure you can afford treatment. Pancreatitis does not have a standard cure. Instead, pancreatitis treatment is symptomatic and supportive, meaning that individual symptoms are dealt with and the cat's health is supported until the inflammation goes down. This generally involves around-the-clock care in a veterinary in-patient facility, and may also include medication. As such, the treatment of feline pancreatitis can cost thousands of dollars. Discuss the cost of treatment with your vet. Be prepared to put down at least half of the anticipated cost prior to treatment. Ensure adequate nutrition and hydration. The best way for your cat's health to be supported as they heal from pancreatitis is to ensure that they stay hydrated and fed. Your vet may prescribe fluid therapy in order to keep your cat hydrated. They may also insert a feeding tube to keep your cat fed. Provide medication for your cat. In addition to providing support, your vet will do whatever they can to treat acute symptoms. These symptoms will vary from cat to cat. Your vet my suggest any combination of the following: Anti-nausea medication (to stop any vomiting). Antibiotics (to treat infection). Pain medication (to help with pain). Corticosteriods (to reduce inflammation). Monitor your cat's hydration. Hopefully, after a day or two your cat will be well enough to go home. Once at home, it is imperative for you to continue monitoring their hydration for at least the first week. Provide clean water. Make sure your cat is drinking every day. Make sure your cat is urinating every day. Follow any additional instructions from your vet. Ensure that your cat gets adequate rest. After your cat returns home, they will need to rest and heal. You may need to limit your cat's activity level in order to accommodate this. Make food and water bowls easily accessible. Make litter box(es) accessible. Limit play. Limit contact with other animals. Provide your cat with easily-digestible foods. It is important for cats to continue eating healthy food during recovery. Unlike dogs, cats do not need to avoid food, and they do not need to consume a low-fat diet. Canned food is your ideal choice, if your cat will eat it. Provide cat food that : Is soft. Is easily digestible. Contains protein. Contains fat. Recommended and/or prescribed by your veterinarian. Attend any follow-up appointments. Your veterinarian will want to schedule one or more follow-up appointments in order to ensure that your cat is healing properly. Be sure that you attend these appointments in order to best ensure the health of your cat. The number of and time-frame for these appointments will vary from cat to cat. Look for the reemergence of symptoms. In some cats, the onset of pancreatitis results in chronic pancreatic inflammation. If you should notice the reemergence of any symptoms, take your cat to the vet right away. Once again, these symptoms may include: Loss of appetite. Severe lethargy. Fever. Weight loss. Dehydration. Depression. Increased heart rate. Difficulty breathing.	Recognize possible causes. Notice any behavioral changes. Look for additional symptoms. Be prepared to answer some questions. Run some tests. Make sure you can afford treatment. Ensure adequate nutrition and hydration. Provide medication for your cat. Monitor your cat's hydration. Ensure that your cat gets adequate rest. Provide your cat with easily-digestible foods. Attend any follow-up appointments. Look for the reemergence of symptoms.
https://www.wikihow.com/Repaint-a-Guitar	How to Repaint a Guitar	Repainting your guitar can be a great way to give it new life. Before you paint it, disassemble the guitar by unscrewing the bolts at the back of the neck and removing the hardware on the front. Then, sand the existing finish off the body of the guitar. Apply a wood grain filler to any cracks and wipe on a coat of mineral spirits to smooth out the surface. Once you've done this, apply 2 or 3 thin coats of primer, then paint your guitar using guitar lacquer or a stain. It can take several days or weeks for the paint to dry, so make sure to follow the instructions on the paint can.	Remove the guitar's strings. You can clip the strings away using your usual pair of string clippers. Unfortunately, there is no way to repaint a guitar with its strings on, so note that you will likely need to readjust your truss rod once you reassemble the guitar. Remove the guitar's neck. Bolt-on guitar necks are fairly easy to remove - simply unscrew the bolts at the back of the neck joint and wiggle the neck free. Glued necks cannot be removed, but most glued necks are painted to match the guitar body anyway, so you'll want to leave it on so that you can repaint it. Remove all of the guitar hardware. The output jack, pickups, bridge, knobs, strap buttons, and pickguard can usually be removed using a screwdriver or Allen wrench. On some models, the output jack and knobs will be wired to the pickups through holes between each cavity, and so you'll need to snip the wires to remove each piece. Make sure to record how they were wired so that you can put it back together correctly. Pull out the bridge studs. Some guitars may not have these, and the bridge can simply be unscrewed from the body. Removing bridge studs can be difficult because they're pounded into the wood. You can use a soldering iron to heat them up so they expand, and then when they cool down they will contract and be easier to remove. You can use pliers to pull them out, but this can scar the finish and ruin their appearance. Set all of the fasteners and hardware aside and label them. The refinishing process can take a few weeks to a few months, so make sure each screw or bolt is labeled. This will prevent confusion when you try to reassemble the guitar. You have two options. Sand away the existing finish completely, or just rough up the existing finish to allow a fresh coat of paint to stick. If you're going with a stain, translucent paint, or if the original finish is much darker than the color of paint your using, then you need to completely remove the existing finish. Otherwise, if you're using a solid paint, then you only need to rough up the surface. Please be aware that most guitar builders agree that a thick coat of paint is tonally inferior to a thin coat of paint. Use an orbital sander to remove the bulk of the finish. Fit an orbital sander with coarse-grit sandpaper and work over the entire guitar body using smooth, circular strokes. This technique should allow you to remove most of the lacquer and paint on the guitar's body. You may be tempted to use paint stripper. However, this is a very messy and toxic process, and most paint strippers are not capable of removing the rock-hard polyurethane that modern guitar manufacturers use. Use sandpaper or a sanding sponge to remove the remaining finish. For curved areas that are difficult to reach with the orbital sander, use loose sandpaper wrapped around a large dowel, or you can use a small sanding sponge. Coarse-grit sandpaper is best for removing the paint and lacquer. Smooth the guitar's body. After using coarse-grit sandpaper to remove the finish, you'll want to smooth out the wood using progressively finer grains of sandpaper. Work the entire body over with medium-grit sandpaper (such as 120-grit), and then go over it again using fine-grit sandpaper (such as 200-grit). Remove all sanding dust. A vacuum cleaner with a hose attachment can remove most of the sanding dust. To remove additional dust, you can use a can of compressed air to spray it away or wipe it away with a moistened cloth or tack cloth. Apply grain filler. Unless you are going for the unfilled look, an option you have when working with mahogany or other porous woods, then you will need to fill in the grain with a filler or putty. Choose a water or oil-based filler that will match the paint or finish you are using. Finally, use mineral spirits to completely remove all oils. Do not touch the guitar's surface after this step, or oils from your fingers will ruin the finish. Be sure to paint in a dust-free environment. There are numerous air particles in the great outdoors even on a clear day that will seriously mar your finish-- including bugs that will be drawn to the odor! If painting indoors, be sure to use a quality air mask. Always wear goggles. Don't paint in an area where overspray will affect furniture or floors. A workshop, garage, or similarly enclosed area will suffice. Placing the guitar body inside a large box on top of a portable worktable (such as a TV tray) will greatly reduce overspray and will protect other items in the area. The opening of the box should be to the side so that the paint is contained within the box and the guitar can be slid in and out. Putting newspapers inside the box provides an easily-replaceable painting surface. Choose the paint or stain you want to use. For solid color finishes, use a paint that is very durable, such as polyurethane or nitrocellulose. Nitrocellulose is the gold standard and can be found in auto parts stores or online, but it dries very slowly. For a stained finish, use a water-based stain and a nitrocellulose or polyurethane clear coat OR an oil-based stain with an oil-based finish such as Tru-Oil. Sprayed on finishes will prevent unsightly brush marks. Apply a few coats of primer/sealer. Use a primer that matches the type of paint you are using. Aim to apply 2 or 3 thin coats rather than 1 thick one, as this helps the primer to dry properly and prevents drips. If using a solid color, apply the coats of paint. Apply two thin coats of paint, allowing the manufacturer's recommended drying time in between. Wait one week for the paint to completely dry before applying the clear coat. If using a stain, wipe on the stain. First, wet the guitar body with a little bit of moisture to ease the application of the stain and prevent blemishes. Apply the stain following manufacturer instructions, and apply as many coats as needed to achieve the look you're after. Apply a clear coat to the guitar. Again, nitrocellulose is recommended. Apply each coat as thin as possible, building up a clear, protective finish on the guitar. You may need to apply as many as a dozen thin coats to achieve a factory finish. Apply them in sets of three thin coats with a few hours in between coats and a week in between sets. The first set of coats need to be very, very thin. After that, you can apply them on a little thicker but make sure to avoid runs. Wait. If you chose a nitrocellulose or polyurethane finish, wait 3 to 4 weeks for the paint to harden. If you chose an oil-based finish, such as Tru-Oil, you only need to wait a few days! Polish the finish. Wet-sand the hardened finish starting with 400 grit, then 600, 800, 1000, 1200, 1500, and finally 2000. Do not skip any steps or else tiny pits, scratches, and swirls will be in the finish and will be impossible to get out. Do not sand through the clear coat and into the color coat especially on the edges of the body where the clear coat may be thinner; this is the reason why the clear coat requires so many coats. Stop here for a satin finish. For a mirror-like shine, use a buffing wheel and buffing compound such as 3M "Finesse It". Alternatively, you can use "Micro Mesh Finishing Pads"—a set of fine grit sanding sponges with #1500, 1800, 2400, 3200, 3600, 4000, 6000, 8000, and 12000 grits—that can be used to give a high-gloss finish without needing an expensive buffing tool. Reassemble the guitar. Screw or bolt together the guitar's hardware. If you had to snip any wires to disassemble the guitar, you'll have to solder them back together. This is now also a good time to replace the cheap factory components, namely the potentiometers, with high-quality ones. You can even buy a new pick guard or make a custom one. Once assembled, the guitar can be cleaned and shined using your usual guitar polish. Now just string it, tune it, and enjoy your beautiful new instrument!	Remove the guitar's strings. Remove the guitar's neck. Remove all of the guitar hardware. Pull out the bridge studs. Set all of the fasteners and hardware aside and label them. You have two options. Use an orbital sander to remove the bulk of the finish. Use sandpaper or a sanding sponge to remove the remaining finish. Smooth the guitar's body. Remove all sanding dust. Apply grain filler. Finally, use mineral spirits to completely remove all oils. Be sure to paint in a dust-free environment. If painting indoors, be sure to use a quality air mask. Don't paint in an area where overspray will affect furniture or floors. Placing the guitar body inside a large box on top of a portable worktable (such as a TV tray) will greatly reduce overspray and will protect other items in the area. Choose the paint or stain you want to use. Apply a few coats of primer/sealer. If using a solid color, apply the coats of paint. If using a stain, wipe on the stain. Apply a clear coat to the guitar. Wait. Polish the finish. Reassemble the guitar.
https://www.wikihow.com/Control-Wild-Violets	How to Control Wild Violets	To control wild violets, try using a herbicide or digging them out by hand. Choose a selective herbicide that only kills broadleaf plants, like wild violets, so it doesn't harm your other grasses. If the problem is relatively minor, buy a spot treatment in a spray bottle and douse your wild violets with the solution. Since wild violets are very resilient, you'll need to apply the herbicide a few times before you get rid of them. If you'd rather not use chemicals on your garden, try digging the violets out by their roots. Violets thrive in shady, moist soils, so if your soil doesn't drain well, consider improving its drainage. Try mixing some sawdust or sand into the soil or laying down wood chip mulch around the violets.	Use a selective broadleaf killer. For best results, select an herbicide containing either 2,4-D or Dicamba. One containing Quinclorac may also work well against wild violets. These herbicides are formulated to kill broadleaf plants, like wild violets, while leaving most grasses unharmed. As such, they can be applied to the wild violets in your lawn without damaging the lawn itself. You will need enough of your chosen herbicide to fill an herbicide sprayer. Follow the instructions on the label of the product to determine how to safely mix and apply the chemical. Regardless of the ingredients in the herbicide, you should always check the label to verify that it will only kill broadleaf plants and not thin-leaf plants (like grass). Make sure that the weed killer is formulated to do exactly what you need it to do before you apply it. Try a spot treatment. When the problem is relatively minor, you can apply a spot treatment directly to each individual violet. Buy a spot treatment herbicide in a small spray bottle and follow the label instructions to safely apply enough of the chemical to the base of each flower. Some of the best herbicides for this use are glyphosate and triclopyr. The former will also kill grass, but the latter will not affect most grass species. Be careful with area applications of non-selective herbicides. Only use an area application of non-selective herbicide if there are no other plants you wish to preserve in the area. As the title suggests, non-selective herbicides do not pick and choose which plants they kill. Everything the chemical touches will suffer and die, including grasses and other flowers. Glyphosate is an herbicide chemical that is especially effective for use against wild violets and many other plants. Follow the label instructions carefully and apply the weed killer using an herbicide sprayer. Add a spreader sticker product to the herbicide. Spreader-sticker products make herbicides more effective by helping the chemical cling to the surfaces of the plant better. This is especially helpful when you are trying to control wild violets since the leaves of these plants have a very waxy surface. Mix the spreader-sticker into the herbicide before you apply the herbicide. Follow the instructions that come with the spreader-sticker product when determining the best way to do this. Apply herbicides more than once. Wild violets are very resilient, so you'll need to apply your chosen herbicide multiple times before the plants die off. Try applying the herbicide once or twice a week, or as directed in the manufacturer's instructions. Note that herbicide treatments are often most effective during the fall since these chemicals have an easier time navigating down to the taproot. During the spring and summer, herbicides tend to cling primarily to the leaf tissue without impacting the root. As a result, the violets grow back. Dig out established wild violets by the root. Mature violets have a tendency to break when you pull them, leaving the root behind and making it possible for the flower to regrow. Digging each violet out is a much more effective option. Use a spade or digging fork and start digging toward the flower from about 1 foot (30 cm) away from the visible center of the plant. This loosens the soil around the plant. When you can get beneath the weed, use your digging tool to lift the weed from underneath. Get as many root pieces as possible to reduce the likelihood of the violet growing back. Pull out young wild violets. Young violets are less likely to break when you pull then, so if digging isn't an option, pulling might still be worth consideration. Wear thick leather gardening gloves to protect your hands as you pull the violets. Plan on pulling the weeds when the soil is moist. If you're going through a dry spell, moisten the area with a garden hose or watering can before proceeding. Grasp the main stem of each violet as close to the soil line as possible, then yank the flower straight up. If the violets are breaking off at the crown when you yank them, insert a kitchen fork or garden fork beneath the root and pry it up as you pull. Improve soil drainage. Wild violets tend to thrive in shady, moist soils. If the soil in your garden or lawn does not drain well, taking steps to improve its drainage abilities can help the rest of your vegetation grow while restricting the growth of violets. You can improve the drainage of heavy soil in your garden by mixing in coarse organic material like sawdust or sand. For clay soils, try mixing in gypsum. There are multiple ways to improve soil drainage in your yard, but one of the simplest is to use a hollow tine aerator to remove plugs of soil throughout the surface of the lawn. Removing plugs of soil can help loosen the remaining soil, allowing water to flow through and drain more readily. Keep the lawn mowed and properly cared for. Weeds like wild violets are less likely to grow in a lawn when the lawn itself is healthy. Mow the grass on a regular basis and take other precautions to ensure optimal growth. The height requirements for grass varieties can vary based on variety and cultivar, but as a general rule, grass should be kept between 2.5 and 3.5 inches (6.35 and 8.89 cm) in cool weather and 1.5 to 2.5 inches (3.81 to 6.35 cm) in the warm season. Mow your lawn every five days during the growing season. If you're currently undergoing a dry spell, water the lawn with a garden hose to prevent it from drying out and dying off. Consider applying a general purpose lawn fertilizer during the spring or summer to give your grass an added boost. Thin out tree limbs and similar obstructions. Prune any unnecessary tree branches and overgrown shrubs. Doing so will make it easier for more light to reach the lawn. Sunlight strengthens your grass. Grass needs at least four hours of sunlight on a daily basis to survive. On the other hand, violets do best in light shade and can become weakened in bright sunlight. Clearing debris out of your lawn or removing any unused sheds can also reduce the amount of shade and help control your violet problem. Spread mulch in problem areas. After removing an initial spread of wild violets, cover the area with 2 or 3 inches (5 to 7.6 cm) of wood chip mulch. Mulch will suffocate most weeds, including violets, making it more difficult for them to grow back as a result. It should also be easier to remove any violets that do pop up from the loose mulch than it is to remove them from compacted soil. An application of mulch can be used regardless of whether you removed the initial spread of violets by hand or by chemical. Note that mulch should only be used when you are trying to control violets in a flower bed. Do not mulch a lawn since doing so can weaken the grass. Switch to an adapted turfgrass cultivar. If your lawn is too damaged to save, your best bet might be to dig everything up and sow fresh turf grass seeds in its place Select a turf grass cultivar that has been adapted for use in your specific region and climate. Such cultivars are more likely to thrive when planted, and a thriving, healthy lawn is less likely to have problems with violets and other weeds. In areas where grass cannot grow due to lack of sunlight, you can still restrict the growth of violets by planting ground-covers and shrubs that do well in shade.	Use a selective broadleaf killer. Try a spot treatment. Be careful with area applications of non-selective herbicides. Add a spreader sticker product to the herbicide. Apply herbicides more than once. Dig out established wild violets by the root. Pull out young wild violets. Improve soil drainage. Keep the lawn mowed and properly cared for. Thin out tree limbs and similar obstructions. Spread mulch in problem areas. Switch to an adapted turfgrass cultivar.
https://www.wikihow.com/Write-a-Study-Plan-for-a-Scholarship	How to Write a Study Plan for a Scholarship	If you're unsure how to go about writing a study plan for a scholarship, focus on explaining your educational goals and discussing how you'll achieve them. Begin by briefly stating what you want to study and why. For example, you might say you want to study business management in China so you can learn Chinese, because it will soon be a global language. Then, provide some personalized reasons as to why you chose the school you want to go to, such as research interests or long-term goals. After laying out your goals, show the scholarship committee how you'll achieve them. If you'll be carrying out research, for instance, write about how you'll find participants for your study. You should also try to mention possible obstacles and how you'll overcome them, since the committee will be impressed to see you're thinking ahead.	Explain your main educational goals. Begin by talking about what you want to study and why you want to study it. For instance, you could discuss the degree you want to achieve while you're in China or the program you hope to complete. For instance, maybe your main goals for studying in China are to gain a bachelor's degree in business and learn Chinese because it's becoming a global language. You could write, "My main two educational objectives are to gain a bachelor's degree in business and to learn to speak Chinese. Chinese is becoming a global language, so I feel it's necessary to learn it." Explain why you chose a particular school or program. It's not enough to say what school you want to study at, nor is it enough to say it's a good school. Rather, you need to provide reasons why that school is a good fit for you or the thing you want to study. Personalize your response. Did something inspire you to study business? What was it? Discuss why the school you choose is a good fit for you to study that one thing. For instance, you might write, "I was born in the United States, but my grandparents on both sides are Chinese. I chose this business program because I want to connect with my heritage, improve my Chinese, and eventually, help establish better relations between China and the U.S. by improving trade relations." Discuss your future research if you're a postgraduate student. If you're going to be working on a PhD, then you need to delve into what you plan to do for research, particularly if you're doing scientific or sociological research that requires test subjects. For example, you might say, "As a PhD candidate, I plan to conduct research on how ancient tradition and ritual influence contemporary Chinese culture, which will include a literature review and extensive interviews with historians and a small sampling of the Chinese population." Narrow your research to show you're serious. Often, PhD students take on too many variables in their research. You don't have to cover every aspect. Narrow down to just the most important ones, the ones that are integral to your topic. That will help show you know how to do research well, making you a better candidate. It can help to draw a conceptual model. Start with the antecedents (the causes) and the mediators (the processes that change the antecedents). Finish with the outcomes. Draw lines between them to help you see which variables are more central to your problem. Consider asking peers or professors to look at your research proposal. They may be able to help you narrow. Talk about how your studies will help your long-term goals. Once you've established what your immediate goals, discuss how you see the program helping you with your future goals. That way, the scholarship committee has a better idea of who you are and why you are picking your particular major, school, and location. For instance, you might say, "One of my long-term goals is to open an import business from China to the United States, and learning about business in China will be essential to making my endeavors a success." Establish how you plan to meet each goal. The scholarship committee doesn't just want to hear about your goals. They want to know you have a plan in place for achieving them so that you're not stuck over there with no way to achieve what you set out to do. Go through your goals one by one to help the committee see you are ready. For instance, if you plan on doing a PhD where you'll need participants, discuss how you'll find people for your study. You might say, "I plan to put out an ad to gain participants for a focus group, as well as contact historians by phone and email for interviews." Talk about how you plan to overcome obstacles. With any study plan, you're gong to have obstacles in your path. The scholarship committee will be impressed if you can anticipate some of those obstacles and offer a short solution for how you plan to overcome them. For example, you might write, "I anticipate the language barrier will be an issue at first. However, I plan to work hard early on to learn the language, and I am already taking intensive classes now." Establish the methodology you plan to use. If you're applying for a PhD, you need to be more specific about your research than with other levels of study. Include what methodology you intend to use for your research. The scholarship judges want to see that you have a detailed plan and that you're serious about your project. To help you choose, do a thorough literature review. Look at the research that has been done in the area you plan to study. Note the primary methods used to do the research and the pros and cons of each. Choose a method based on what you think will work best for your research. Establish your sampling strategy if you plan on using one. The sample strategy is how you plan to choose a part of the population to represent the whole in your research. The strategy you choose is usually determined by the type of research you're doing. The scholarship committee will want to know about it to make sure you have a plan in place for your research. For instance, you might use simple random sampling or systematic sampling when the whole population is similar based on the variables for your study. On the other hand, a stratified random sample is often used when you have people who are different from each other based on your variables. Wrap up your study plan with a short summary. At the end of the plan, reiterate why you want to study at your chosen program, and repeat why it is important for meeting your goals. Also, add a few words about how the scholarship can help you achieve your goals. For example, you might write, "Thank you for considering me for this scholarship. If I receive this award, I can focus solely on my studies. I will work hard to implement my goals of learning Chinese and gaining a business degree at a Chinese university, and your trust in me will not be wasted." Write plainly and eliminate jargon. Someone who's not in your field should be able to understand your study plan. That means you need to avoid using jargon and work on explaining your research as simply as possible. You don't need to write as if you're talking to a child. However, you should write so someone outside of your discipline can easily understand your plan. Be as detailed as possible. Of course, you're not writing a dissertation in your study plan. However, provide as many details as you can about what you plan to study and how you plan to go about it. That way, the scholarship committee has a better understanding of who you are as a scholar, which can help you stand out among the candidates. The space for the study plan on the CSC application is only a couple of lines. However, the application suggests you attach more paper as needed. Have someone proofread the study plan after you. After you've gone over your study plan thoroughly looking for typos, have someone else read it, too. They'll likely catch things you'll miss. It can help to have a professor or teacher look at it, as they've likely read similar plans before.	Explain your main educational goals. Explain why you chose a particular school or program. Discuss your future research if you're a postgraduate student. Narrow your research to show you're serious. Talk about how your studies will help your long-term goals. Establish how you plan to meet each goal. Talk about how you plan to overcome obstacles. Establish the methodology you plan to use. Establish your sampling strategy if you plan on using one. Wrap up your study plan with a short summary. Write plainly and eliminate jargon. Be as detailed as possible. Have someone proofread the study plan after you.
https://www.wikihow.com/Polish-Stones	How to Polish Stones	To polish a stone, start by dipping it in water before rubbing it all over with 60-grit sandpaper. For the best polish, regularly wet the stone as you use the sandpaper to wear down any sharp edges. Once the stone is rounded, use 160-grit sandpaper to rub out the scratches from the rougher sandpaper. Finish sanding the rock using 360-grit sandpaper, then polish the stone using stone polish and a damp denim cloth.	Collect your stones in person or online. You can go out and find stones on your own; look for small (thumb-sized) rocks that are not gritty (sandstone is never a good choice), and also are not fractured or broken. Also avoid rocks with stones with lots of small pits on the surface, as these will not polish well. If this is your first time polishing stones, it may be challenging to find high-quality stones on your own. Try contacting a stone-collecting hobbyist groups in your area, and asking for their ideas about where to find stones to polish. There are many websites that can advise you and help with stone-collecting locations, and also plenty of sites that sell rough, unpolished stones in bulk. Find the stones that you'd like to polish. You will want to start with softer stones, as these are easier to shape and polish, and will take less time and work on your part. Softer stone types include: onyx, calcite, limestone, dolomite, or fluorite. Stones are ranked on hardness on the “Mohs hardness scale,” which ranks from 1 (very soft)–10 (very hard). Most of the stones listed above are a 3 or 4 on the Mohs scale. Scrape the stone with the point of a pocket knife. This will tell you if a stone is hard enough to be polished. If the scrape mark is gritty or white, the stone is too soft—you can still polish it, but its appearance will not improve. If the stone is left with a metallic mark from the knife blade, it is hard enough to polish. Be careful when using a pocket knife, and always scrape the stone with the blade moving away from your body. It doesn't take much pressure to scrape the stone's surface; start with light pressure on the knife, and only increase pressure as needed. Shape the stone with a hammer and chisel. Often stones are in awkward or unwieldy shapes; in order to shape the stone to a rounded, symmetrical point, use a hammer and chisel. Especially if you are planning to polish a larger stone, you may want to break off any large protrusions. Since rock dust can be harmful to your lungs and eyes, it's recommended that you wear safety glasses and an air mask while shaping your stones. Once you have chiseled the stone into the desired shape, grind any rough edges against a concrete surface to roughly smooth the edges. Clean all the dirt and debris off the stones. You can simply put all the rocks in a bucket of hot soapy water and let them soak for about 30 minutes. This will soften any dirt or material that have stuck onto the stone. Once the stones have soaked, rinse them off. It's necessary to clean excess dirt from stones before you polish them; otherwise, you'll clog up your sandpaper or tumbler with dirt and the stones won't be polished. Choose the stone that you wish to polish first. It's recommended to pick the softest and smallest stone for the first time you practice polishing. A smaller, softer stone will be quicker and easier to polish. Once you see the final results, it will entice you to continue with this hobby. Take the 60 grit sandpaper and rub it across the stone. This rough, course-grain sandpaper will not polish the stone at first, but it will allow you to shape the soft stone slightly. If you are going for a nice round stone, start at the corners and rub them down evenly. Once you have your stone shaped like you want, you're ready to use a finer-grain sandpaper. Periodically, dip the stone into your bucket of water to keep the stone wet. 60 grit, 160 grit, and 360 grit sandpaper will all be available from your local hardware store. Dip the stone in the water again. Now use the 160 grit of paper and rub over the scratches the coarser paper left behind. You will notice that this grit of paper will still scratch the stone, but will smooth the larger scratches on the rock surface. Remember to keep the stone wet; dip it in the bucket periodically. When all the larger scratches have been removed; proceed to the next step. Take the 360 grit and continue rubbing your stone. As in the previous step, you want to smooth the stone even more. Each successively finer-grained sandpaper will sand out the large scratches from the larger-grain paper, and will leave smaller scratches on the stone. Continue to rinse off the rock periodically. It's important that the rock surface be damp when you are sanding it. You will be finished once all scratches from the previous sanding have been smoothed over. Polish your stones with a tumbler. If you don't have the time or inclination to polish stones by hand, you can use a tumbler. A tumbler polishes stones by using the same principles; instead of sandpaper, you will need to add successively finer “tumbler grit” to the tumbler (while the rocks are in the barrel). Although using a tumbler takes much less physical work than polishing by hand, the process takes substantial amounts of time. You'll tumble your stones three times (each with a successively finer grit), and each of these tumbling sessions takes about 7 days. The final polishing step takes 7 days as well. Apply a powdered polish onto a damp denim cloth. Start polishing the stone with the denim until you have achieved your desired result. A polish will remove all scratches left by the finest-grain sandpaper, and give the stone a shining lustre. You don't have to put a lot of polish on the cloth; it's best to start with a small amount of the polish (e.g. ½ teaspoon) and only add more polish if needed. Powdered stone polish will likely be available at your local hardware store. Polishing powder is often used with dremel tools, so if you're having trouble finding the powder, ask the sales staff if they stock dremels. If not, you may need to go to a rock or gemstone hobby store to find the powder. Be advised that colored polish will sometimes effect the color of the stone. Polish your stone with a strip of leather. This can be done after you use the denim and polishing powder, or done in its place. Leather will add a softer lustre to the stone, and also make the stone smooth and soft to the touch. You can add polishing power onto the leather itself, for both a smoother and softer finished product. Apply a rouge to the polished stone. Rouges are typically used by jewelers to provide a finishing touch on fine jewelry, but they can be applied to polished stones as well. Apply the rouge to the denim cloth or leather strip that you used earlier, and then rub it into your polished stones. Be advised that this step is optional. Rouges are often colored, and can stain the tone of your stone. If you apply a rouge, look for a color that already matches that of your stone. If you have trouble finding a rouge at your hardware store, check at a rock and gemstone hobby store. If that fails, try a jewelry store.	Collect your stones in person or online. Find the stones that you'd like to polish. Scrape the stone with the point of a pocket knife. Shape the stone with a hammer and chisel. Clean all the dirt and debris off the stones. Choose the stone that you wish to polish first. Take the 60 grit sandpaper and rub it across the stone. Dip the stone in the water again. Take the 360 grit and continue rubbing your stone. Polish your stones with a tumbler. Apply a powdered polish onto a damp denim cloth. Polish your stone with a strip of leather. Apply a rouge to the polished stone.
https://www.wikihow.com/Break-in-Your-Brand-New-Dr-Martens-Boots	How to Break in Your Brand New Dr Martens Boots	To break in your brand new Dr. Martens boots, plan to wear them in slowly to avoid blisters or foot pain. When first wearing your boots, wear thick socks, which will push the leather out and protect your feet from any rubbing or pinching. Walk around in your boots for 10 minutes at a time, 2 to 3 times a day, so they mold to your feet without causing pain. Slowly increase the amount of time you spend in your boots by adding about 10 minutes at a time. In addition to wearing your boots, bend the back of the shoe inwards to make the heel area more spacious, then push the toe to and away from the laces.	Start with thick socks. Put on socks that will both push the leather outwards and protect your feet from any rubbing or pinching, preventing the formation of blisters. Wear the shoes for 10 minutes. Keep the shoes on long enough that they begin to mold to your feet, but not so long that they cause pain or injury. Walk around and stretch your feet while your wear them. Do this whenever you have free time to change shoes and walk around, at least two to three times per day. To find the time to switch between your comfy shoes and the Dr. Martens you're breaking in, wear your new boots either before or after work, or during your lunch break at the office. Increase your shoe-wearing time in 10-minute increments. Slowly expand the amount of time you keep your shoes on your feet, paying close attention to how your feet feel. Don't push through the pain! Because this is a slower and more time-consuming method, plan ahead. If you want to show off your new Dr. Martens at a particular event, begin this process about a month before that date. Try to wear your Dr. Martens around the house as much as you can (without causing yourself pain). Manually stretch the leather. Bending the leather in the direction it goes in when you're wearing your boots can help break them in. Bend the back of the shoe inwards to make the heel area more spacious, then push the toe to and away from the laces. You can also bend the leather in and out on the instep (or the middle, by the laces) of the shoe. This may cause creasing in the leather. To avoid noticeable or permanent creases, be sure your leather is properly conditioned before you use your hands to stretch it. Dr. Martens has its own product, Wonder Balsam, for this purpose. Periodically conditioning your boots will also aid in the overall break-in process. Soft and supple leather is much easier to stretch than stiff leather. Keep the shoes stretched even when they’re off your feet. Stuff your shoes with newspapers or a shoe tree to make sure they don't shrink back down when you're not wearing them. If you use newspaper, be sure to fully stuff the shoe. Take your boots on an outing. Once you can comfortably wear your Dr. Martens for an hour, they should be fully broken in. Test the fit on a walk or excursion that allows you to come home and change shoes if necessary. If you're worried, bring an extra pair of reliable shoes along with you. Pour water into a resealable freezer bag. Fill the bag no more than halfway to avoid spills or tears. Be aware of the areas of your boot that need the most stretching, as this may alter how much water you place in the bag. If it's a smaller or larger portion, fill the bag with the amount of water that makes it fit comfortably within that space. Use a high-quality plastic bag. You don't want any water to touch the leather directly, as this will damage your boots. Choosing a bag specifically labeled for freezer use will help ensure that no leaking occurs. Seal the bag. Leaving only a small corner of the bag unsealed, remove the excess air from the unfilled half of the bag, and then fully seal the bag. Double check for leaks, tears, or an incomplete seal. Just in case you've spilled a bit of water while filling or sealing the bag, wipe it off with a dishcloth or paper towel. Place the bag in your shoe. Check to make sure that the bag presses against the area(s) of the shoe that need to be stretched. Use crumpled newspaper to keep the bag in position. You can use several bags of varying sizes to fill the various portions of your shoe. The toe, in particular, may call for a smaller bag that fully touches the entire front of the shoe. Freeze the boot. Put your boot, complete with filled bag(s), into your freezer. Leave the boots in the freezer for a minimum of eight hours, or overnight. The water should be completely frozen before you remove the shoes, as the expanding ice is what stretches the leather. Let the boots thaw. Once you remove your boots from the freezer, wait at least twenty minutes and up to an hour before you remove the bags. The ice needs time to melt and soften a bit so that you're not forcing the bag out of the shoe. Taking the bag out too early may tear the bag, leaking water that will damage your boot. Remove the bag. Be very careful not to tear the bag as you pull it out of your boot. Check the fit. If your boots are still too tight, repeat the process, focusing your attention on the problem areas. Put on thick socks. You want the boots to feel tight, so use woolen or winter socks. Wear your boots on top of the socks. You may need to force your feet to fit into the boots, and this won't be the most comfortable experience. Without a tight fit, however, the leather won't have any reason to stretch or expand. If the boots still feel loose, try putting on two or three pairs of socks at once. Break out your hair dryer. Keeping the hair dryer about six inches away from the shoe, blow hot air on the tight areas of the boots for about 30 seconds, flexing your feet and wiggling your toes as you go. Each problem spot should receive its own 30-second heat treatment. Let the boots cool. Keep wearing your new shoes until they've cooled down, walking around and flexing your foot as you wait. The boots should be about room temperature to the touch before you remove them, otherwise you'll negate the heating process. Check the fit. You may need to repeat this method several times, paying close attention to which spots need the most attention. Focus the heat treatment on those areas. Try wearing a thicker pair of socks if you find it necessary to repeat the steps. It's possible your fit wasn't tight enough to force the leather to stretch. Condition your leather. Heat removes moisture from the leather, which may cause cracks or breaks in the shoes. Avoid this side effect by applying products designed to restore moisture and keep the leather supple, such as Dr. Martens Wonder Balsam.	Start with thick socks. Wear the shoes for 10 minutes. Increase your shoe-wearing time in 10-minute increments. Manually stretch the leather. Keep the shoes stretched even when they’re off your feet. Take your boots on an outing. Pour water into a resealable freezer bag. Seal the bag. Place the bag in your shoe. Freeze the boot. Let the boots thaw. Remove the bag. Check the fit. Put on thick socks. Wear your boots on top of the socks. Break out your hair dryer. Let the boots cool. Check the fit. Condition your leather.
https://www.wikihow.com/Have-a-Great-Sleepover-Birthday-Party	How to Have a Great Sleepover Birthday Party	To set up a great sleepover birthday party, start by just watching TV or talking and snacking while you wait for all the guests to arrive. Once everyone's there, start some bigger activities that you know everyone can get excited about, like karaoke, limbo, or a dance party! Later on in the night, do each other's nails and makeup, or even play truth or dare! Finally, finish your party off by having everyone vote on a movie, or just staying up late talking.	Make the invitations. Make the invitations in such a way that it reflects your personality. You can use Microsoft Word to make them, or write them by hand. It doesn't really matter, as long as the guests know all the information. On the invitations, include who the party is for, what day it is, what time it starts and ends, where your house is, and your phone number (RSVP). Write the RSVP deadline date, and tell the guests what to bring (sleeping bag, clothes, pillow, etc.). Put the invitations in envelopes and mail them (or hand them out at school). Make up the gift bags. At most sleepovers, the host makes gift bags for the guests. Get a bag for each guest, and write their name on it (decorate if desired). Inside the gift bags, put in candy, mini notebooks, gel pens, nail polish, make-up, and/or anything else you think your friends would like. Lay all the bags out on a table before the party (but don't give the bags to them until it is over.) Or, you can hide the gift bags at the end of the party and turn it into a scavenger hunt. Set up the party. Hang balloons and streamers if you have them, and also put up happy birthday signs.If you don't have any just make some of your own. Add glitter for some sparkle. Make room for all the sleeping bags. Put the snacks and drinks on a table. It's best if this is in the usual eating areas; crumbs in the bedroom aren't much fun and risk staining your floor, clothes and the sleeping bags. However, candies in a bowl are usually fairly safe to have in your room. Use a tablecloth or decorate one with some roll of paper you can get at your local craft store. Greet your guests. Soon they will arrive. When they do, take their things and put them in your room (or wherever you will sleep). Put their presents on a table or the floor. When all of the guests come, start the activities (if any). It doesn't have to be a huge game, you can just have fun tossing the balloons around at the beginning of the party. You can watch TV while waiting for your guests, or just have snacks and talk. You could go with karaoke, a fashion show, or a dance party. Stick with activities everyone likes and can get excited about! Some more party games are limbo and freeze dance. For limbo, any long pole or stick will do. Eat dinner when it's ready. Usually it will be pizza, but it can be something else. If you are ordering pizza, get some plain, some pepperoni, and whatever your friends like. Have drinks ready, like water, juice and soda. (Don't get too full for dessert!). Eat cake (or whatever is for dessert). Remember to add candles to the cake and sing "Happy Birthday." Open presents. It's good to have someone write down what you get, so you can write thank-you cards later. Say thanks anyway to who got you the gift, even if you don't love it, it's still nice. Read cards, if any. Sometimes, people write personal cards, so ask before you read it out loud. Play "Truth or Dare" if you want. This is a classic sleepover game that almost everybody loves. Just make sure the dares aren't too crazy, and the truths nothing too personal (but asking about secrets is the fun of the game). Consider doing makeovers or other classic sleepover activities. You can also paint each other's nails. Get a lot of colors, and take turns doing your friend's nails. You can also do this with other makeup if you want. Watch movies. To make sure that all guests are okay with the movie you watch, have three or four ready and take a vote on what they want to watch (you vote too.) If it's a tie, just pick one. And besides, who said you can only watch one movie? Play games! Monopoly, Twister, Truth or dare or do a Try not to Laugh Challenge! Games are fun for everyone and set the mood! Why not do a vote on which game to play? Set up the sleeping bags. You don't have to go to sleep just yet, but it's great to be comfy. Also let your friends change into their PJ's (if someone forgot PJ's, have extras ready). You can keep watching the movie if you want. When it gets late, just talk to your friends. Ask about their crushes and things (if you didn't already in Truth or Dare). Just remember, if they ask you about a secret, you don't have to tell them if it's that personal. Or, change the subject. Luckily, there's many of them. Talk about sports, vacations, school, boys, etc. Go to sleep. As much as you want to, it's not healthy to stay up the whole night. You should probably go to sleep at midnight or one o'clock, because if you wake up at nine, you'll get a great amount of sleep. If someone falls asleep early, don't wake them up! If you wake up early, don't wake your parents unless absolutely necessary. Let them rest. Have breakfast when you wake up. A parent can make waffles, bagels, pancakes, or whatever you want to eat. Or, you can make your own waffles or pancakes or eat out (you could do this for dinner, too). Watch TV if you want to, or play a board/card game. You can play outside, too, if it's nice out. Play tag or something outside. Get dressed near the end of the party. Say bye to your guests when the party ends. Thank them for coming, and don't forget the gift bags! Write thank-you cards. This is optional, but it's polite to do it.	Make the invitations. Make up the gift bags. Set up the party. Put the snacks and drinks on a table. Greet your guests. When all of the guests come, start the activities (if any). Eat dinner when it's ready. Eat cake (or whatever is for dessert). Open presents. Play "Truth or Dare" if you want. Consider doing makeovers or other classic sleepover activities. Watch movies. Play games! Set up the sleeping bags. When it gets late, just talk to your friends. Go to sleep. Have breakfast when you wake up. Watch TV if you want to, or play a board/card game. Get dressed near the end of the party. Say bye to your guests when the party ends. Write thank-you cards.
https://www.wikihow.com/Harvest-Parsley	How to Harvest Parsley	If you want to harvest parsley leaves, take leaves from younger plants to get the best flavor. Wait until the leaf stems have 3 segments, then cut the stems you want to harvest at the base of the plant to encourage more growth. Alternatively, if you're only looking for a few leaves for immediate use, cut them off from the outer parts of the plant so that the inner part has more time to mature. During the fall, harvest the rest of the leaves if your parsley grows outside so it gets the best chance to grow back in spring.	Choose younger plants. Younger parsley plants have the strongest flavor. The leaves can be harvested even after the first year, but if you have the option of harvesting leaves from a plant in its first year of growth, doing so will give you the best yield and product. Wait until the leaf stems have three segments. Check the stems. If the stems have three or more clusters of leaves, they are mature enough to harvest from. Stems with one or two segments should be left alone. Most parsley plants will be ready to harvest from within 70 to 90 days after you initially plant them. Cut at the base of the plant. When harvesting entire stems or bunches of parsley, snip the herb off at the base of the plant instead of cutting from the top. Cutting the parsley near the base of the plant will encourage the plant to produce even more stems, resulting in an overall bushier parsley plant with an improved yield. Cut leaves from the outer portions. If you only plan on harvesting a few small sprigs of parsley for immediate use, you should snip them off from the outer portion of the plant and not from the inside. Even if you plan on cutting a few full sprigs at the base of the plant, you should cut from the outside instead of the inside. The inner part of the plant will benefit from being able to mature longer. Removing leaves from the outside will ensure that the oldest growth is being harvested, thereby preventing it from browning or otherwise remaining on the plant too long. Harvesting old growth also allows the plant to focus its energy on producing and maturing the newer growth. This effort will produce an overall healthier parsley plant. Harvest continually. Parsley will continue to grow throughout the entire season, even after you harvest the leaves. As such, you can have a steady supply of the herb and do not need to harvest it all at once. Parsley grown outdoors will usually remain a vibrant green until late fall to early winter. Once the color starts to fade, its flavor will decline dramatically. Until that happens, though, you can keep harvesting the plant on an ongoing basis without a loss to the herb's flavor or health. Harvest in bulk at the end of the season. If your parsley is kept outdoors and unprotected, it will die off during the winter. Before that happens, harvest the rest of it so that the plant has a chance to grow back the following year. Parsley will continue to grow throughout the winter if you keep it protected in a warm place indoors. Make sure that the indoor plant receives plenty of sunlight on a daily basis by placing it near a sunny window. If you have an indoor parsley plant, you do not need to make a final harvest before winter. Instead, continue harvesting the parsley on an "as needed" basis. Use your fresh parsley as desired. Parsley is best used fresh. It can, however, be stored for several months if necessary, but the flavor will not be as strong once you dry out the herb. If you cut off the leaves a little at a time, it is recommended that you use the parsley immediately. If you cut more than you can use for a single meal, wrap the rest in a damp paper towel and store them in the refrigerator for up to two days. If you want to pull several sprigs at one time, you can place entire sprigs of parsley in water and store them in the refrigerator for up to seven days. Store your parsley in the freezer for long-term use. Freezing the parsley will allow you to keep whole sprigs for future use. Once it's defrosted, it can be used similarly to fresh parsley. This can be accomplished in a variety of ways, but one of the easiest is to cut up the leaves into small portions and place them into ice cube trays. Fill the trays will a little water and freeze as normal. When ready to use, melt an individual cube of parsley, drain the water, and add to your dish. Note that frozen parsley will retain its flavor but lose its crispness. Dry your parsley for easy long-term use. Drying your parsley makes it easy to store it long-term and use it as desired. You can dry parsley by hanging full sprigs upside-down in a well-ventilated, dark, and warm area indoors. It should dry in a week or two, at which point, you should crumble the leaves and store it in an airtight bag or container. As another option, you can dry your herbs in a food dehydrator. Wait until the second year. Parsley plants do not go to seed during their first year. If you plan on harvesting the seeds, you will need to monitor a plant already in its second year. Parsley plants are biennial. Typically, the plants will only live for two years, and at the end of their lives, they will flower and seed. To maximize your seed harvest, it is recommended that you remove imperfect or weak two-year-old plants at the end of the first season. In doing so, you ensure that the healthiest plants can fertilize each other and produce good seed. When harvesting and storing seeds, try to separate those that were ready for harvest early from those that were ready later in the season. The seeds from early seed producers should be given priority over those that came from plants that produced seed late. Harvest the seeds when they become dark. To harvest entire seed heads, wait until the majority of the seeds have turned dark brown. If you harvest the seeds any earlier, they may not germinate well later on. Parsley seed goes through three basic stages. Immediately after it finishes flowering, the seed will emerge as a light or bright green color. It will eventually take on a tan tint during the second stage, and during the final stage, it will be brown or otherwise dark in color. Cut off the seed heads. Snip off the seeds by cutting directly below the seed head. Pinch the stem just below the seed head with your thumb and index finger. Cut the stem just below your fingers. Remove the seed heads carefully, shaking them as little as possible as you work. If you shake the seeds while clipping them off, you could end up scattering the seeds. Since the seeds are fairly small, seeds that are scattered will likely end up lost. Shake lightly. Gently shake the seed heads into a paper bag to quickly and easily remove the majority of the mature seeds. You could also lightly shake or tug on the seeds over a tightly woven patch of fabric or plastic sheeting. Shake or remove the seeds using a gentle motion. If you apply too much force, the seeds can fly off and scatter in all directions. Ripen additional seeds. If a few young seeds still remain stuck to the seed heads, you can let them ripen by setting the cut seed head out in the sun for a few days. To ripen more of the seeds, spread out the cut stalks on plastic or tightly-woven fabric sheets and place them in direct sunlight indoors. Keep the parsley stalks in a single, thin layer as they dry. The remaining seeds should be ripe within two days. Keep the seeds indoors as they dry. If you dry the seeds outdoors, birds or other small animals may end up getting to them before you do. Consider plucking seeds individually. If a few seeds from a cluster ripen much faster than the others, you can harvest them on their own by simply pinching them off with your index finger and thumb. Parsley plants have a tendency to ripen at an irregular pace. Some seeds might be ready to harvest an entire three weeks earlier than others, even if the seeds are on the same plant. Be careful as you pluck off seeds. The force you use to pluck off individual seeds can cause the stem to recoil, and if there are too many mature seeds on the plant, they may break off with the force of that recoil and fly off as a result. As a result, it is recommended that you pluck individual seeds only if the majority of the seeds are not yet ready for harvest. Dry the seeds. The seeds will need to dry out for about 10 to 14 days before you can store them and use them later on. To dry the seeds, spread them out in a single layer on a baking sheet with shallow sides and place them in a warm, dry location. Turn and mix the seeds each day to prevent them from drying unevenly. The seeds must be thoroughly dry before you can store them. Store the dried seeds in airtight plastic bags or containers. Keep them in a cool, dry, and dark location until ready to plant. You can use your seeds to plant your next season's crop of parsley! Don't eat the seeds.	Choose younger plants. Wait until the leaf stems have three segments. Cut at the base of the plant. Cut leaves from the outer portions. Harvest continually. Harvest in bulk at the end of the season. Use your fresh parsley as desired. Store your parsley in the freezer for long-term use. Dry your parsley for easy long-term use. Wait until the second year. Harvest the seeds when they become dark. Cut off the seed heads. Shake lightly. Ripen additional seeds. Consider plucking seeds individually. Dry the seeds.
https://www.wikihow.com/Determine-the-Correct-Height-of-Walking-Canes	How to Determine the Correct Height of Walking Canes	To determine the correct height for a walking cane, buy a 36 inch cane if you're of average height, which is between 68 and 71 inches. If you're between 64 and 67 inches tall, purchase a 35 inch cane. Alternatively, opt for a 37 inch cane if you're between 72 and 75 inches tall. If you want to be more precise, put on a pair of shoes and hold your arms by your sides. Then, use a measuring tape to measure the distance from the crease in your wrist to the ground.	Estimate using your height. If you don't have a tape measure and you're ordering a cane online, you can estimate the size you might need by using your height as a general guide. A person between 76 and 79 inches tall should order a 38-inch cane, whereas those between 72 and 75 inches tall may find that a 37-inch cane suits them better. The length of the cane you order should drop one inch for every three inches that you are under the suggested height ranges. For example, a person standing 64 to 67 inches tall should buy a 35-inch cane. Many canes are height adjustable, but some are not (particularly those carved from wood). Order a 36-inch cane if you're of average height. Because many people (particularly men) fall within the height range of 68-71 inches, most canes are manufactured or adjusted to 36 inches in length. As a default, some cane manufacturers send 36-inch canes to online customers automatically unless they specify a different length. Walking with a cane that's either too long or short can lead to more aches and pains, especially in your elbow, shoulder and neck. Borrow a cane from someone of similar size. If a friend or family member temporarily needed a cane to help recover from an accident or injury, and if they are the same height as you, then ask them if you can borrow or buy it. If they were properly measured for the cane and tend to wear similar shoes to you, then their cane may be a great fit for you. When trying to correlate your height to the length of a cane, remember to factor in the height of your shoes because you likely won't be using the cane without them. Use a measuring tape. The most precise way to determine the correct cane length for you is by measuring the distance between your hand and the ground while you wear shoes. With your arm hanging straight down at your side, the top of your cane should line up with the crease in your wrist. In other words, the number of inches between your wrist and the floor is the length that your cane should be. With the cane in hand, your elbow should bend at a comfortable angle — about 15 degrees or so. Bending your elbow a little more is okay if you're primarily using the cane for balance instead of weight support. Measure differently if you're hunched over. You should consider measuring yourself differently if you have a condition that does not allow you to stand up straight. In this case, you'll likely need a shorter cane than that normally dictated by your height. Thus, measure the distance between the floor and wherever your wrist is as you walk with shoes on. Get a friend to help if need be. If your cane is too short, you might lean to one side — which can throw you off balance. Get professional assistance. If you find it too difficult to make the appropriate measurements for your walking cane, then your best bet is to have your physician or physical therapist help you with it. Try asking your doctor to write you a prescription for a cane. You may also want go to a medical supply store and ask a sales associate to help you out with finding the right cane for you. Your doctor or a sales associate can also recommend the most appropriate material for your cane, as well as the handle shape and type of grip. Normally the hand you hold the cane with is on the opposite side of the injury, but sometimes it's the same side — your doctor or physiotherapist can determine the correct side for your situation. Try different cane lengths. Although measuring the distance from your wrist to the floor is the "gold standard" of determining cane length, you may prefer a slightly different height based on many physiological factors, such as the flexibility or strength in your hands, wrists, elbows or shoulders. For example, if you can't bend your elbow very much, you might need a cane that's a little shorter. Try a few different lengths of canes while at the medical supply store or your physician's or physiotherapist's office before determining the perfect size for your particular condition. Choose a walking cane based on function as well as personal preference. Consider what your cane is for. Many people who carry a walking cane use it primarily for balance (especially when walking on unbalanced or slippery surfaces), as opposed to needing it to support the majority of their body weight. The length of your cane doesn't need to be as precise if you're using it mainly for balance instead of weight bearing / support. There are different kinds of canes. Some have one tip while other have four tips. The ones with four tips provide more stability but these canes are harder to use. Not all walking canes are designed to support all of your body weight, especially if you're obese. As such, perhaps you should consider crutches or a wheelchair if you need more support. Choose a grip that works for you. Canes also have different types of grips. For example, you can get a cane with a foam handle grip with or without a cuff that fits around your arm. You can also get a cane that has a large handle to make it easier for you to hold onto. Try gripping different types of cane handles to see what feels the most comfortable for you. Don't forget about the tip. Walking canes typically come with rubber or plastic tips on the end, which provide grip but they also affect the height of the cane. So when measuring the cane, always take into consideration the size of the tip. Furthermore, when the tips wear down with use, the cane's height will reduce somewhat, so remember to replace worn out tips. The pliable rubber tips on the ends of canes grip the floor much like the tread on tires grip the road. Make sure your cane has a tip that is in good shape. If you need to replace the tip, then go to a medical supply store and buy a new one. When buying a cane, make sure the rubber tip is supple and the tread is in good shape.	Estimate using your height. Order a 36-inch cane if you're of average height. Borrow a cane from someone of similar size. Use a measuring tape. Measure differently if you're hunched over. Get professional assistance. Try different cane lengths. Consider what your cane is for. Choose a grip that works for you. Don't forget about the tip.
https://www.wikihow.com/Use-a-Vicks-Humidifer	How to Use a Vicks Humidifer	A Vicks humidifier adds moisture to your air and can help clear up congestion, and all you need to do to use one is fill it with water and turn it to the right setting. Start by placing your humidifier on a flat, waterproof surface, like your desk or dresser. Then, fill the humidifier to the fill line with some bottled or distilled water. Try to avoid using tap water since it can cause mineral buildup and bacterial growth. Once you've added the water, just plug your humidifier into a nearby wall outlet and turn the power knob to a comfortable humidity level. Whenever the water runs out, refill the humidifier with more water.	Put the humidifier on a flat, waterproof surface. The surface should be at least 4 feet (1.2 m) away from your bedside and 6 inches (15 cm) away from the wall. If you have any pets or small children, place the humidifier where it will not be disturbed by either. Vicks humidifiers should always be carried with both hands to avoid accidentally dropping them. Purchase bottled or distilled water for your humidifier. Using tap water creates a mineral residue in your humidifier's tank that can promote bacterial growth. Breathing in this bacteria may cause illness, so use bottled, distilled, or purified water every time you use the humidifier. If you don't want to use bottled water, you can purify tap water using a filter or water purification tablets. Fill the humidifier tank with cool water. Remove the humidifier tank and turn it upside down to reveal its tank cap. Turn the tank cap in the direction of the open lock symbol (usually counter-clockwise) and fill it with cool water. Screw the cap back in place and place the tank into the humidifier again. Never fill the humidifier with warm or hot water. Insert a VapoPad, if desired. VapoPads allow your humidifier to emit soothing scents, like rosemary, lavender, or menthol, for up to 8 hours at a time. Open the humidifier's scent pad door, then open the scent pad by tearing a notch on the corner of the bag. Insert the VapoPad into the door and close it. You can insert up to 2 VapoPads at a time. After 8 hours have passed discard one or both VapoPads. Do not touch the inner contents of the VapoPad. If any of the contents get on your hands, was them immediately, as they can cause skin or eye irritation. Plug your humidifier into the wall. To avoid electrocution, dry your hands off before plugging in your humidifier. When it's plugged in, check your humidifier's positioning again— it should be angled away from walls, furniture, or bedding. Make sure no objects are covering the humidifier's steam openings before you plug it in. Turn the power knob to the desired setting. Twist the knob clockwise to raise the setting and counter-clockwise to lower it. When you have reached a comfortable humidity setting for your needs, leave the humidifier undisturbed until you need to adjust the setting, remove a VapoPad, or refill the machine. You might start, for example, by turning it about halfway between low and high and adjusting as needed. The lower the setting, the longer your humidifier will run. Turn on the projector, if applicable. Some Vicks humidifiers come with a projector that plays calming lights and sounds. Slide the projector switch on to use this feature, and turn it off as needed. Most projectors can be operated independently of the humidifier if you would prefer to use this feature without the humidity. Make sure someone is always in the room with the humidifier. Leaving the humidifier alone for too long increases the risk of oversaturated air or other accidents. If you need to leave the room or are going out of the house, remember to switch the humidifier off before you go. Leave the room door slightly open while using a humidifier. If you leave the door closed, the air could become saturated and leave condensation on the walls, windows, and furniture. Propping the door open will keep the room at a balanced humidity level. Turn the humidifier down if the room feels moist. If you notice condensation on your walls or windows, the humidity levels are higher than they should be. Unless you are trying to relieve nasal congestion, your air humidity levels should not be high enough that it makes the room moist. Refill your humidifier when it runs out. You should be able to monitor the water level at any time through its translucent tank. If your humidifier runs out of water and you still want to use it, unplug your humidifier and refill it with water again. A water tank should last between 12-18 hours on a medium setting. Don't let the water sit between uses. Leaving the water in your humidifier for days can cause bacteria to breed in the water. Dump the water out after you are finished using your humidifier, and fill it with fresh water each time you use it. Clean your humidifier weekly to keep it in good condition. Frequently cleaning your humidifier will prevent bacterial growth. If you use your humidifier often, clean it weekly so it can remain safe to use. If you don't use your humidifier more than once per week, clean it after every use. Unplug your humidifier and remove the tank before you clean it. If you used any VapoPads in your humidifier, take them out of their compartment. Twist the tank cap off and set it aside, then empty any residual water from the tank. Add 2 cups (470 mL) of undiluted, distilled white vinegar to the tank. Screw the cap back on and swirl the vinegar around the tank, then screw it back into the base. The vinegar solution can then drain into the base and loosen any mineral buildup. Never turn on or run the humidifier with the vinegar solution. Soak the humidifier in vinegar for 4-5 hours. Leaving the vinegar solution in the humidifier for several hours will kill bacteria and loosen any minerals in the tank. If you can see residual minerals in the machine, let the vinegar soak for the full five hours. Rinse out the tank and base. After soaking the humidifier, unscrew the tank cap and pour the vinegar out in the sink. Turn the base over and pour the vinegar out of there as well. Pour water into the tank and base and swish them out until neither smell like vinegar. Dry the base and tank out if you're putting the humidifier away for storage. Use a dry cloth to wipe the base and tank dry to prevent mold or bacteria growth. Keep the humidifier in a dry place until you are ready to use it again. Disinfect the humidifier weekly with bleach. Add ⁄ 2 teaspoon (2.5 mL)} of bleach to ⁄ 2 gallon (1.9 L) of water and fill the tank with this cleaning solution. Place the tank on the base and let the solution drain into the base. Keep the solution in the humidifier for 15-20 minutes, then empty out both the base and tank in the sink. Pour water into the base and tank and flush the humidifier out until they no longer smell like bleach. Never turn on or run the humidifier with the bleach solution. Do not use the vinegar and bleach cleaning solutions during the same cleaning session. Mixing these chemicals can cause toxic fumes, so plan a separate day to disinfect your humidifier.	Put the humidifier on a flat, waterproof surface. Purchase bottled or distilled water for your humidifier. Fill the humidifier tank with cool water. Insert a VapoPad, if desired. Plug your humidifier into the wall. Turn the power knob to the desired setting. Turn on the projector, if applicable. Make sure someone is always in the room with the humidifier. Leave the room door slightly open while using a humidifier. Turn the humidifier down if the room feels moist. Refill your humidifier when it runs out. Don't let the water sit between uses. Clean your humidifier weekly to keep it in good condition. Unplug your humidifier and remove the tank before you clean it. Add 2 cups (470 mL) of undiluted, distilled white vinegar to the tank. Soak the humidifier in vinegar for 4-5 hours. Rinse out the tank and base. Dry the base and tank out if you're putting the humidifier away for storage. Disinfect the humidifier weekly with bleach.
https://www.wikihow.com/Stop-Coughing-Using-Home-and-Natural-Remedies	How to Stop Coughing Using Home and Natural Remedies	To soothe your cough at home, try swishing organic cooking oil in your mouth for 20 minutes to kill germs and bacteria. As an alternative to medicine, take small doses of elderberry extract, peppermint, eucalyptus, honey, ginger, or thyme. To help your body fight off infections, drink at least 8 glasses of water a day, eat fruits and vegetables containing Vitamin C, and look for proteins rich in zinc. Stay away from foods that can make it harder to heal, like sugary drinks and red meat.	Consider oil pulling. Oil pulling is an Ayurvedic remedy in which you swish oil in your mouth to remove harmful germs and bacteria from your mouth. Use organic, cold-pressed oil like vegetable, sesame, olive, or coconut oil. Take a spoonful of oil and swish it in your mouth for one minute to gain the benefits. If you can, try to swish the oil for 15-20 minutes. To make sure the oil absorbs and detoxifies as much bacteria as possible, aim to do this with an empty stomach. Spit it out and rinse your mouth with lukewarm water. These contain lipids that absorb toxins and pull them out of saliva. They also stop cavity-causing bacteria from sticking to the walls of your teeth. This is a natural moisturizer that also helps prevent dehydration in the throat and mouth, which can ease the symptoms of a cough. Take elderberry extract. Elderberry is commonly used to treat coughs, sore throats and respiratory illnesses because of its anti-inflammatory and antiviral properties. It also stimulates the immune system. You can buy Elderberry extract as a syrup, lozenge or dietary capsule supplement at most nutrition or drug stores. Or, you can steep 3-5 grams of dried elderflower in a cup of boiling water for ten to fifteen minutes. Then, drink it as a herbal tea, up to 3 times per day. Consider the following precautions: It's better to take elderberry every 2 to 3 days, since prolonged use isn't recommended. Elderberry is a blood thinner and may not be recommended for people with low blood pressure. Do not use unripe or uncooked elderberries since they may be poisonous. Speak to your doctor before taking elderberry, since it may have some side effects for pregnant women, people with autoimmune disease, and people taking diabetic medication, laxatives, chemotherapy drugs, or immunosuppressants. Use peppermint. You can buy peppermint in the form of lozenges, extracts used in dietary supplements, herbal teas, essential oils and a fresh herb. Don't forget that you can use the fresh leaves as a garnish or flavouring in everyday meals. You can also make and drink your own teak up to 3 times a day by steeping one tea bag (approx. 3-4 grams or 1 ½ teaspoon) of dried peppermint leaves in a cup of hot water (80–85°C). Peppermint contains menthol, which can help soothe sore throats and dry coughs. It's also a decongestant that can thin mucus and help break up phlegm. Don't use peppermint or menthol with infants. Also, don't take peppermint oil orally. Instead, it's usually used in aromatherapy or as a rub. Use eucalyptus. You can buy eucalyptus as lozenges, cough syrups, and vapor baths at most drug stores to help soothe sore throats. Try applying topical eucalyptus ointments to your nose and chest to relieve congestion and loosen phlegm. It's generally safe for adults to apply eucalyptus to the skin. Or, you make eucalyptus tea to drink up to 3 times a day by steeping 2–4 grams of dried eucalyptus leaves in a cup of hot water for 10–15 minutes. Eucalyptus' active ingredient is a compound called cineole, which works as an expectorant to fight respiratory infections and alleviate coughs. Eucalyptus also has antioxidant properties that protect against free radicals, molecules that can damage and infect cells. You can also gargle eucalyptus water after meals to reduce bad breath and soothe your throat. Do this up to 3 or 4 times a day by steeping 2–4 grams of dried leaves in one cup warm water (40°C) for 5-10 minutes. Eat honey. You've probably heard that tea sweetened with honey can help a sore throat, but eating pure honey can actually stop a cough. Eat 2 teaspoons of honey during a bad coughing spell or right before bed. Studies have shown that consuming honey before sleeping can actually improve sleep quality. Never give honey to a child under 12 months old. It can cause botulism, a type of food poisoning that is potentially life-threatening in small children. Use ginger. Ginger can help you produce mucous and relieve coughing. You can steep fresh ginger in hot water to make a tea, chew on crystallized ginger, or add a few teaspoons of ground powdered ginger to 1 tablespoon of honey and eat it. Ginger can also calm an upset stomach or nausea you may also have. Repeat any of these treatments several times throughout the day to prevent coughing fits and ease symptoms. Try thyme. Thyme is used to treat bronchitis and coughing. It's also gentle enough that it's safe for small children to use. For a great combination of remedies, make a honey-thyme tea. Steep 3 springs of fresh thyme and 2 tablespoons of honey in 1 cup of hot water for 10 minutes. Strain and drink to stop coughing. Never eat or drink thyme oil, which is toxic when taken orally. If you are currently taking blood-thinners, talk to your doctor before taking thyme, since it could increase the risk of bleeding. Consider other natural herbs. While many home remedies have been backed up by studies showing their effectiveness at treating coughs, many still lack scientific support. You might give them a try, but understand that some may be more effective for you than others. These include traditional remedies that are commonly known for their helpful healing properties: Marshmallow (Althea officinalis) Slippery elm (Ulmus fulva) Licorice (Glycyrrhiza glabra) Mullein (Verbascum densiflorum) Sundew (Drosera spp.) Stinging nettle (Urtica dioica) Drink lots of water. Try to drink at least eight ounces of water every two hours. 2 litres of water is the daily recommendation for the average adult. You can also supplement with glucose-free sports drinks that have electrolytes. If you drink caffeinated beverages, you should also drink 1 litre of water for every cup (1 fluid oz.) of caffeine. Water helps ease congestion caused by colds, preventing postnasal drip that can irritate the throat, and keeps your throat from drying which can cause coughs. Not getting enough water can also lead to dehydration which can cause headaches, irritability, dizziness, irregular heartbeat and shortness of breath. Avoid inflammatory foods. Certain foods can slow down your body's healing process, impair the immune system and increase inflammation. They may also cause gastroesophageal acid reflux, which can make your cough worse. Try to cut back on or avoid these foods: Refined carbohydrates such as white bread, pastries and donuts. Fried foods Sugar-sweetened beverages such as soda or energy drinks. Red meat such as veal, ham or steak and processed meats such as hot dogs. Margarine, shortening and lard. Eat a Mediterranean diet. Some foods can help reduce inflammation to help ease a sore throat. If your cough is caused by stomach acid reflux, try eat more green vegetables, whole grains, nuts and oil. You may want to cut back on eating fruits with citric acid, since they may trigger gastroesophageal acid reflux which aggravates your throat. Switch to a Mediterranean diet. It mostly consists of foods that help reduce inflammation, like: Fruits (such as strawberries, cherries and oranges.) Nuts (like almonds and walnuts.) Green leafy vegetables (such as spinach or kale which are high in antioxidants.) Fatty fish (like salmon, mackerel, tuna and sardines.) Whole grains (such as brown rice, quinoa, millet, oatmeal and flax seed.) Olive or canola oil Add more Vitamin C to your diet. If your cough is a symptom of a cold or viral infection, strengthen your immunity to help your body heal faster and avoid future risks of infection. Research has shown that vitamin C plays a vital role as an antioxidant and in promoting immune function, lowering the risk of various chronic diseases. You can take Vitamin C as a dietary supplement, or you can add vitamin-C rich foods to your diet. Good natural sources of vitamin C are: Sweet red or green peppers Citrus fruit such as oranges, pomelo , grapefruit, limes or non-concentrated citrus juices. Spinach, broccoli and Brussel sprouts Strawberries and raspberries Tomatoes Take probiotics. Probiotics are microorganisms that are naturally found in your digestive system and certain foods. Studies have shown that they can help reduce the severity of cold or flu symptoms, like a cough, sore throat, and nasal congestion. They can also reduce the length of your recovery period. You can get probiotics from yogurt, certain types of milk, soy products and as dietary supplements. Talk with your doctor before taking probiotics if you have a weakened immune system or are currently taking immunosuppressant drugs. Probiotics also help boost the production of cells that fight infections and suppress stomach acid reflux. Use oral coconut oil. Coconut oil has antibacterial and antiviral properties. 2 tablespoons of coconut oil, three times per day will often shorten a cold or flu to last only 1 to two days when otherwise it would have lasted 8 or 10 days. Take zinc. Zinc is an essential trace mineral found in many foods you eat on a regular basis. It has antioxidant properties that help protect cells in the body from damage caused by bacteria and viruses, prevent future infection and strengthen the immune system. You can take a daily dose of 10 - 15 mg of zinc in a supplement, like zinc sulfate. Or you can get it from a healthy diet. The best dietary sources of zinc include: Oysters, shellfish, shrimp, crab Red meats Poultry Cheese Beans, sunflower seeds Pumpkin Tofu and miso Mushrooms Cooked greens Get plenty of rest. Your body needs sleep to heal itself. Studies show that sleep deprivation can weaken the immune system, increase the production of stress hormones, put you at higher risk for chronic disease and lower life expectancy. If you suffer from sleep apnea or insomnia, talk to your doctor for possible treatments. If you have a cold or nasal congestion, try to lie on the side that is least congested to breathe comfortably and allow the mucus to drain. To get plenty of rest, you can also: Avoid caffeine, alcohol and sugary foods 4-6 hours before heading to bed. These can act as stimulants to keep you awake. Create a regular sleep schedule by going to bed early and waking up early to set your body's internal clock. This will make sure you get better quality and consistent sleep. If you can't fall asleep after 20 minutes, get out of bed, go to another room and do something relaxing until you are tired enough to sleep. Melatonin (1 to 3 mg) and/or 1 to 2 Valerian capsules may also be helpful to fall asleep. If you suffer from obstructive sleep apnea—frequently interrupted breathing during sleep— ask your doctor for treatment options. Your doctor may recommend surgery or CPAP. CPAP (continuous positive airway pressure) is a common therapy for sleep apnea which uses a small machine to supply constant and steady air pressure, a hose, and a mask or nose piece. Some CPAP devices come with a heated humidifier to help with a dry, stuffy nose. Create a relaxing sleep environment. Make sure your room is well-ventilated, quiet, dark, cool environment (between 65 - 75 degrees). Use heavy curtains or an eye mask to block light, a powerful cue that tells the brain that it's time to wake up. Improve airflow and keep mucus flowing by propping your head up on a pillow. The pillow should support the natural curve of your neck and be comfortable. Place a firm pillow between your knees and pull your knees up slightly toward your chest if you sleep on your side. This will prevent your upper leg from pulling your spine out of alignment and reduce stress on your hips and lower back. Avoid sleeping on your stomach, since this can block breathing, promote acid reflux and cause stress. Avoid working or exercise 3–4 hours before going to bed. Physically and psychologically stressful activities can make the body to secrete the stress hormone cortisol. Cortisol may increase your alertness. In this context, it is interesting to note that melatonin counters the effects of cortisol. Try listening to relaxing music or doing some light reading a few hours before sleeping. Regular, moderate exercise, especially in the afternoon, can help deepen sleep. Gargle salt water. Place ½ teaspoon of sea salt in a glass of distilled or sterilized warm (30-35ºC) water. Stir until it's dissolved. Gargle the water for 1–2 minutes, then spit it out instead of swallowing. If the salt irritates your mouth or throat, you can also use plain, distilled warm water for gargles. Repeat gargling every few hours. This helps to ease a sore throat and moisturizes your sinuses. This lets mucus drain and prevents postnasal drip that can trigger coughs. Blow your nose properly. Experts recommended that you blow by holding a finger over one nostril and gently blowing the other into a tissue. Don't blow too forcefully since the pressure from blowing hard can impact your ears, giving you an earache on top of your cold. Be sure to blow gently, and only as often as necessary. Wash your hands each time you blow your nose, to avoid chances of other infections from bacteria or viruses. It's important to blow your nose while you have a cold. This can prevent postnasal drip, keep your sinuses clear, and prevent mucus from irritating your throat, which can easily trigger a cough. Quit smoking. Smoking can cause respiratory illnesses, chronic coughing, and even stroke since it deprives the body of oxygen needed to circulate blood throughout your body. It's one of the leading causes of chronic coughing and bronchitis, also known as “smoker's cough”. Try to avoid secondhand smoke and other hazardous fumes if you have a cough or a sore throat. Avoid smoking especially when you have a headache or fever since smoking can weaken your immune system and prolong the condition. Ask your doctor about ways to reduce and quit smoking. Practice mild to moderate exercise. Mild to moderate exercises such as walking or stretching boosts your immune system, reducing the recovery period and alleviating symptoms. Regular exercises also reduce the risk of infection over the long term. A daily 30–45-minute workout with moderate intensity exercises like brisk walking, jogging and swimming is recommended. If needed, talk with a physician. Try to avoid intensive training if you have a cold, fever or a headache. If intensive exercise is triggering your cough, along with symptoms such as wheezing, chest pain, and shortness of breath, you may have exercise-induced bronchoconstriction (EIB). This happens when the tubes that bring air into and out of your lungs narrow with exercise, causing symptoms of asthma. Some people with EIB do not otherwise have asthma, and people with allergies may also have trouble breathing during exercise. Talk to your physician or an immunologist to help develop a personalized fitness plan for your condition. Avoid cold, dry temperatures and changes in atmospheric pressure as these can trigger EIB. Use a humidifier. Dry air can aggravate the symptoms of a cold, making it harder for mucus to drain and triggering coughs. Use a humidifier in your bedroom or living room to add moisture to the air, prevent dehydration, help clear your sinuses and soothe your throat. Aim for the right humidity. The air in your home should range from 30% to 55% humidity. The simplest way to measure humidity is with a gauge called a humidistat, which can be purchased from most hardware stores. If the humidity is too high, mold and dust mites may thrive, both of which are common causes of allergies. Mold also causes an unpleasant smell and can discolor surfaces. If the humidity falls too low, it may cause dry eyes, throat and sinus irritations. Both portable and central humidifiers must be cleaned thoroughly. Otherwise, they tend to become contaminated with mold and bacterial growth that may be blown through the house. Stop the humidifier and call your healthcare provider if you develop any respiratory symptoms that you feel are related to the use of a humidifier. Get an indoor houseplant. For a natural humidifier, consider getting a houseplant. Plants can help regulate indoor humidity by releasing water vapour from their flowers, leaves, and stems. They also help clear the air of carbon dioxide and other pollutants such as benzene, formaldehyde and trichloroethylene. Good indoor plants include aloe vera, bamboo palm, weeping fig, Chinese evergreen, and various species of philodendron and dracaena. Visit your doctor. While most coughs go away after a few weeks, some may be warning signs of an underlying condition or infection. Smokers may cough more frequently and should go see the doctor if a cough lasts longer than 3–4 weeks. You should go see your doctor with the first development of a cough if you experience: Sore throat High fever Whooping cough Postnasal drip, which feels like mucus running down your throat Coughing up blood - get emergency medical care immediately Coughing that interferes with your work and daily activities - get emergency medical care immediately You should especially go see your doctor if you have previously been diagnosed with allergies, asthma, bronchitis, heartburn, gastroesophageal reflux disease or are taking prescription medication, such as ACE inhibitors, for a heart condition. Coughing can aggravate these conditions. See an otolaryngologist (ENT specialist). Your doctor may refer you to an ENT specialist, who can check your throat for signs of viral or bacterial infection, or if other underlying causes. An ENT specialist can also perform a nasal endoscopy using a fiber optic scope to look at your sinuses. The ENT specialist will look for nasal polyps and vocal cord polyps. The ENT specialist will also identify structural problems if you have a nasal infection, and may suggest an endoscopic sinus surgery. You should tell your doctor about any other respiratory conditions you may have. Get a chest x-ray. Your doctor may recommend getting a 15-minute chest x-ray exam if you have symptoms like shortness of breath, chest pain, chronic cough, or fever. A chest x-ray is a painless, non-invasive test that creates pictures of the structures inside your chest, such as your heart, lungs, and blood vessels. Although a routine chest X-ray won't reveal the most common reasons for a cough, like postnasal drip, acid reflux or asthma, it may be used to check for lung cancer and pneumonia and other lung diseases. An X-ray of your sinuses may reveal evidence of a sinus infection. Let your doctor know if you're pregnant or may be pregnant. In general, women should avoid all x-ray tests during pregnancy. Check for symptoms of whooping cough (pertussis). Whooping cough starts like the common cold with a runny nose or congestion, sneezing, a mild cough, fever and sleep apnea. After 1–2 weeks, severe coughing can begin. Whooping cough can cause violent and rapid coughing, over and over, until the air is gone from the lungs and you are forced to inhale with a loud "whooping" sound. You may even vomit. See your doctor immediately if you have a whooping cough. Many babies with whooping cough don't cough at all. Instead, it can cause them to stop breathing. Infants and children under 6 years get emergency medical care immediately. Watch for signs of nasal or lung infection. If your doctor suspects chronic sinusitis, a nasal infection, or bronchitis, you may need imaging tests including an x-ray, computed tomography (CT) scan, or magnetic resonance imaging (MRI). Other common symptoms of nasal infection include: Fever and headache. If you have a high fever or a severe headache, you should seek medical care immediately. Pressure in the forehead, temples, cheeks, nose, jaw, teeth, behind the eyes or at the top of the head. Facial tenderness or swelling, usually around the eyes or cheeks. Shortness of breath or wheezing breath Squeezing or tightness in the chest that causes pain Nasal stuffiness, loss of smell, nasal discharge (usually yellowish green), or post-nasal drip, the sensation of fluid dripping down the back of the throat, particularly at night or when lying down. Rare complications associated with chronic sinusitis can include blood clots, abscesses, meningitis, orbital cellulitis which causes inflammation around the eyes, and osteomyelitis, an infection that spreads to the bones in the face. Watch for severe symptoms of a cold. If you have severe symptoms of a cold or flu or have been previously diagnosed with any respiratory disease, you should get professional care immediately. These symptoms include: Cough with green or yellowish phlegm A fever of 104ºF or more. Ear or nasal infection Nasal discharge Skin rashes Breathlessness due to asthma or another respiratory problem.	Consider oil pulling. Take elderberry extract. Use peppermint. Use eucalyptus. Eat honey. Use ginger. Try thyme. Consider other natural herbs. Drink lots of water. Avoid inflammatory foods. Eat a Mediterranean diet. Add more Vitamin C to your diet. Take probiotics. Use oral coconut oil. Take zinc. Get plenty of rest. Create a relaxing sleep environment. Gargle salt water. Blow your nose properly. Quit smoking. Practice mild to moderate exercise. Use a humidifier. Get an indoor houseplant. Visit your doctor. See an otolaryngologist (ENT specialist). Get a chest x-ray. Check for symptoms of whooping cough (pertussis). Watch for signs of nasal or lung infection. Watch for severe symptoms of a cold.
https://www.wikihow.com/Pack-a-Backpack	How to Pack a Backpack	To pack a backpack for travelling, start by sorting out smaller items, grouping them together by category, and placing each group into colored cloth or plastic bags. For example, you could put your toiletries in a green bag and all of your socks into a blue bag. Then, keep any food that you're bringing separate from the rest of your items by using separate containers. Next, layer your bag by putting the things you use least near the bottom and the heaviest things in the center, and then, fill in any empty spaces.	Use a backpack with an internal frame to help balance the bag. If you plan to go hiking on trails that are uneven or have a steeper incline, a backpack with a frame built into it can help you keep your balance when your bag is full. The backpack with an internal frame will sit flush against your back and keep your center of gravity closer to its natural position. Many backpacks with internal frames are weather-resistant and were designed to be used outdoors. Backpacks with frames are also great for long hikes because they distribute the weight evenly on your body and make it easier to carry heavier loads. Choose a backpack without a frame for a lighter pack. For a lighter bag to carry, go with the frameless backpack, but make sure it's weather-resistant if you plan to take it out into the great outdoors. Make sure the backpack fits you well and has padding to help it fit more comfortably, especially when it's full of gear. Frameless backpacks are also generally much cheaper than backpacks with internal frames. If you plan to go backpacking somewhere hot, make sure you have a bag that has a mesh panel on the back to keep you from overheating. Make sure you have camping and hiking essentials. There are a few essential items that you'll want to pack for a hiking trip to ensure a safe and enjoyable experience outdoors. Depending on how long or how far you'll be hiking the gear, equipment, and amenities may vary. And of course, you should bring a few personal items like a camera or a book to read to enjoy your time. Lay out everything you plan to bring and group similar items together. Make sure you don't forget anything by laying all of your gear and supplies out on the floor. Organize them into similar items. Keep small and loose items together in a small bag so they don't get lost in the bag. Keep your toiletries together in a pouch or plastic bag. Keep all first aid supplies together in case you need them. Pack lighter gear at the bottom and top, and heavier gear in the middle. Pack your clothes and sleeping gear at the bottom of the bag. Put heavier items like food and gear in the middle and top of your bag so they're against your back, which will make the bag feel lighter. The items you need to access more often should be closer to the top of your bag. Keep any weather gear, sunscreen, and insect repellent at top in case you need it quickly. Keep essential and emergency items within reach by packing them at the top. Any first aid gear or medications that you need should be packed last and at the top of your backpack so you can reach it quickly in the event of an emergency. You don't want to have an accident happen if you're unable to reach a first aid kit! Keep your wallet, cash, and identification within reach as well. Wear the backpack and walk around to see how it feels. Backpacking can be very physically challenging, so you want to make sure your backpack is packed well and fits you comfortably. Put the backpack on and try walking around, sitting down, and taking it off to see how well it fits you. You may need to re-organize your bag to balance the weight. Try shifting the items around by unpacking them and re-packing them in a different manner to distribute the weight evenly. Choose a backpack that fits your items and your mode of transportation. For example, if you plan to take your backpack on a plane as a carry-on, you need to choose one that will fit in the overhead compartment Most airlines allow a maximum bag size that is 21 inches (53 cm) long, 14 inches (36 cm) wide, and 8 inches (20 cm) deep. If you plan to ride along in a vehicle with other people, make sure your bag will fit in the trunk or under your seat. Organize the items that are necessary to pack for your trip. Think about what you will need to use each day and which items will make your travel more pleasant. Leave behind any non-essential items or items you could possibly get at your destination like flip-flops, t-shirts, and amenities like sunscreen and shampoo. When it comes to travelling with a backpack, less is more! You'll be carrying your backpack for a long time as you travel, so try to travel as light as you can. Gather all of your toiletries together and put them into a plastic bag. Keep any electronic devices with their accessories like chargers and headphones. Use the 1 to 6 rule for packing clothes. To pack a full wardrobe that can fit into one backpack, follow the 1 to 6 principle: 1 hat, 2 pairs of shoes, 3 pairs of pants, 4 shirts, 5 pairs of socks, 6 pairs of underwear. These clothing items give you enough variety to arrange several options for an outfit each day. Swap out 1 pair of shoes for a sweater or hoodie if you need one to keep warm. Roll your clothes to save space in your backpack. Rolling your clothes conserves more space than folding them and will give you more space in your backpack for other items. Lay your shirts face down, fold the sleeves into the center, and roll the shirt into a tight roll. For pants, fold them in half, and roll them up tight. Make sure you smooth out any wrinkles or your clothes will be very wrinkly when you arrive at your destination. Put your shoes in the bottom of your bag first. Since you probably won't be changing your shoes while you travel, you can put them at the bottom of the bag. Make sure the spare shoes are clean before you put them in your bag so they don't get your clothes dirty! Store socks and small items like jewelry inside your shoes to save even more space and to keep them safe. Place your clothes and lighter items on top of your shoes. Add your clothes and lighter items that you don't plan to access too often while you're traveling to your backpack. Place your rolled clothes on your shoes and add items like toiletries or any other small times on top of them. Make sure your toiletries are collected together in a plastic bag so none of the items can fall to the bottom of the bag if you need to reach them. Pack any electronics and items you need to access last. Once you've filled your backpack with your clothing and other lighter items, pack your heavier electronics like a computer or tablet and their accessories. Then place the items you'll need to access often like a passport, tickets, or reading material on top of that so you can reach them easily. Test out the backpack by wearing it. You'll be travelling and wearing your backpack for a fair amount of time, so you need to make sure it fits comfortably and there aren't any items that are throwing off the weight distribution. Put the backpack on and walk around for a bit to see how it feels. If something feels off, try rearranging your items for a better fit. Try sitting and standing with your bag on so you can get an idea of how it will feel when you travel with it. Organize your books and school supplies before you pack them. Stack your books in a neat pile, put your pencils and pens in a pencil case, and put your loose papers into folders or binders before you start to pack your bag so you can get an idea of how much room you'll need and how you can arrange your bag. If your school has a supply list, use it as a guide and make sure you've got everything you need. Placing smaller items like pens, pencils, and highlighters in their own case will prevent them from getting lost in the backpack. Lay the empty backpack flat on a table or bed. Make sure the bag is completely empty before you pack it so you don't miscalculate what you can fit in there. Laying your bag flat on a surface like a table, bed, or even the ground will make it easier for you to start loading larger items into the bag first. The backpack should be facing up, with the straps underneath the bag. Put heavy items like books into the backpack first. With the bag laid flat, open up the main compartment and put the largest books in first. These will be pressed against your back, so make sure they're even and there aren't any bulges or edges that could dig into your back. The padding on the back of the bag will help to make it more comfortable. If your bag is divided into 2 or more large sections, place your books into the rear section closest to the back of the bag, near the straps. Stack the books with the largest on the bottom and the smallest on the top Place binders, notebooks, and folders on top of books. After you've put your books into your backpack, stack your supplies on top of them, arranging them so that they're even. Start with the larger items like binders and notebooks, then place your folders and other materials on top of them. Try to form an even layer so they don't shift around too much when you're wearing the backpack. Insert smaller items into the smaller compartments. Use the compartments and pouches at the front of the backpack to hold your smaller items like pencil cases and sticky notes. Anything that you don't want to get crushed by the weight of your books and supplies should be stored in a separate compartment on your backpack. Pack any electronics, fragile items, and emergency supplies last. Expensive and fragile electronic items like phones and tablets should be packed last so they're on top of all of the heavier items in your bag. If you have emergency medications like an inhaler, epipen, or insulin supplies, pack them last and in an easy-to-reach location. Keep any emergency medications in their own bag so you can pull them all out at once if you need them. Put on the backpack to see how it feels before you go to school. If your backpack is too heavy, you could strain or injure yourself. Test your backpack out by putting it on and walking around a bit before you head to school. If you need to readjust any items, it's better to do that before you get to school! If the backpack feels too heavy or uneven, consider carrying a few of the books or binders instead of packing them in your bag.	Use a backpack with an internal frame to help balance the bag. Choose a backpack without a frame for a lighter pack. Make sure you have camping and hiking essentials. Lay out everything you plan to bring and group similar items together. Pack lighter gear at the bottom and top, and heavier gear in the middle. Keep essential and emergency items within reach by packing them at the top. Wear the backpack and walk around to see how it feels. Choose a backpack that fits your items and your mode of transportation. Organize the items that are necessary to pack for your trip. Use the 1 to 6 rule for packing clothes. Roll your clothes to save space in your backpack. Put your shoes in the bottom of your bag first. Place your clothes and lighter items on top of your shoes. Pack any electronics and items you need to access last. Test out the backpack by wearing it. Organize your books and school supplies before you pack them. Lay the empty backpack flat on a table or bed. Put heavy items like books into the backpack first. Place binders, notebooks, and folders on top of books. Insert smaller items into the smaller compartments. Pack any electronics, fragile items, and emergency supplies last. Put on the backpack to see how it feels before you go to school.
https://www.wikihow.com/Use-a-Squat-Toilet	How to Use a Squat Toilet	To use a squat toilet, first decide whether you want to remove your pants or lower them to your ankles. If you're new to squat toilets, it might be easier to take them off completely so they don't get in the way. Once you're ready, stand over the toilet with one foot on each side. Try not to squat directly over the hole since water could splash back up when you pee. Instead, position yourself closer to the hood of the toilet if possible. When you're lined up, bend your knees and lower yourself down into a deep squat. You can also hug your knees if it's difficult for you to stay in this position. After you're in a squat, just relax and do your business. Don't forget to clean up when you're done, using whatever is available like a pot and ladle, sprayer, or flush.	Decide what to do with your pants. Before you can make use of a squat toilet you will need to deal with your clothes. Similar to using a western toilet which is sat on, you have to get your clothes out of the way before you can get to business. Squat toilets can be difficult for a beginner who is still wearing their pants. If you are new to squat toilets, it can be a good idea to fully remove your pants and underwear. If you are comfortable with squatting, you can try to leave your pants on, simply lowering them to your ankles. Stand over the squat toilet. Once you have dealt with your pants in a way that you are most comfortable with, you will need to get into position over the toilet. Stand over the toilet with one foot on each side. Positioning yourself over the toilet in this way will allow you to be properly lined up when you begin to squat. Face the right way, looking towards the hood of the squat toilet if it is present. Try to position yourself closer to the hood if possible. Avoiding squatting directly over the hole as this can splash water back up when using the toilet. down. Squat After having lined yourself up directly over the toilet you can squat down. Bend at the knees and gently lower yourself down into a deep squat. Your knees will be pointing straight up and your bottom should be directly over the toilet. Squat all the way down, positioning your bottom at about ankle level, close to the toilet. If the squat is a difficult position for you, try hugging your knees for support. Do your business. Once in the squat position it's time to relax and let nature take its course. Although this step isn't very different from using a western toilet, it has been demonstrated that squatting during a bowel movement can make it easier on the body. Just relax and do what you need to do. Clean up. Once you are all done using the squat toilet it is time to clean up. Many places that use squat toilets may not use toilet paper, using instead a sprayer or a pot of water and your hand. Look around the squat toilet to find which method has been made available to you. Most pots of water will have a small ladle. Splash water using the ladle while wiping the area with your hand. Using a sprayer is the same idea as the water pot and ladle. Spray water and wipe the area clean with your other hand. You can bring toilet paper with you. However, many toilets may be unable to flush paper without clogging. Dispose of waste paper properly. If you used toilet paper to clean up after using the squat toilet, you will need to properly dispose of it. Not all plumbing systems are equipped to deal with flushing toilet paper and it can cause serious damage to those systems. Always properly dispose of your toilet paper once you are done using a squat toilet. If there is a trash bin near the squat toilet, chances are it is intended for used toilet paper. Flush the squat toilet. Some squat toilets will have a handle and will flush like a western style toilet. However, many may not have this feature and you are still required to flush and clean up after you have used the toilet. Always leave the squat toilet looking clean for the next person. Use the water bucket provided to make sure any waste is flushed down the toilet. There may be a foot pedal that can be used to flush the squat toilet. If there is a brush nearby use it to wipe away any footprints you may have left on the sides of the toilet.	Decide what to do with your pants. Stand over the squat toilet. down. Do your business. Clean up. Dispose of waste paper properly. Flush the squat toilet.
https://www.wikihow.com/Become-a-TV-Reporter-or-News-Anchor	How to Become a TV Reporter or News Anchor	To become a TV reporter or news anchor, get a bachelor's degree in broadcast journalism, English, or communications, since most TV stations require this. When you're in college, join your school newspaper so you can practice writing stories and investigating leads. You can also get an internship at a local newspaper to gain more experience in the field. Finally, create a resume tape that shows a sample of your reporting or anchoring skills and start applying for jobs!	Be an articulate speaker. Your voice is key in this field. You should concentrate on projection, enunciation, and inflection. All of these things will help you deliver your “script” in a compelling nature. Be authoritative in your speech. This will give you credibility with your audience. Read newspapers and magazines aloud. Listen to the best journalists in the field when they speak and try to emulate them. You'll have to speak loudly and slowly enough for people to understand you, but quickly enough to cover everything you have to say in a given amount of time. Look good on camera. This doesn't mean that you have to look like a movie star or a Victoria's Secret model. You don't even have to be classically handsome or beautiful. You do, however, have to look appealing on camera, and have that special quality that makes people want to watch you doing whatever you do. This is a mixture of charisma, confidence, and that special something that will make people respond to you even if you're covering a story about a local bake sale. Unfortunately, it can go the other way -- you may be incredibly attractive but may come off as lackluster on camera. Don't think that your looks are a golden ticket to the profession. Have killer people skills. If you want to succeed in the world of TV reporting or news anchoring, then you have to be able to talk to anyone about almost anything. If you're reporting, you may have to talk to people live, on site, and on camera, even if they aren't comfortable, and your job will be to make them comfortable. If you're an anchor, then you'll have to introduce people to your audience and talk to them in the studio, and use the same skills to make them open up and feel at ease. You may not realize that many reporters and news anchors have to write and investigate their own stories, but this may actually be a large component of your job. If this is the case, then you'll need to be able to talk to a variety of people who can give you access to the information you want. Be free from bias. Tough one, eh? If you want to be an honest TV reporter or news anchor, then you'll have to learn to put your prejudices aside. Even if you lean a certain way politically or feel biased against certain professions, people, or regions, you'll have to do your reporting as objectively as possible. You won't be able to let the people you interview see through to your personal beliefs, or you won't be giving people the honest, unbiased news that they really want. If you're prejudiced against certain people, they will be much less likely to open up to you. Have stellar writing skills. Though being an articulate speaker is crucial, being a strong writer isn't far behind. Even if you're just reading what you have to say and improvising as you go along, or if you have to write your own stories, writing skills will get you far in the field. Writing skills will also help you communicate with others if you have to develop your own stories, and your writing should make you sound as professional as possible. Have ridiculous stamina. If you're the kind of person who needs a nap after working for two hours, then the life of a TV reporter or news anchor is not for you. You may have to work 12 hour shifts, get up at 2 a.m., or spend hours just standing in the same spot during unusually cold or hot conditions waiting for a story to break. And you have to have the ability to work a 10 hour shift, only to be told that a major story just broke and to work 5 more hours until you take care of business. You will have to be flexible. This is not a job for people who want to work 9-5 and then go home and kick their feet up. Think you can do it? Get a bachelor's degree. Most TV stations require that you have a college degree, preferably in broadcast journalism. Getting a degree in English or Communications is also a big help. Some schools that have top broadcast journalism programs are Brigham Young University, University Missouri Columbia, Northwestern University, Syracuse University and Arizona State University. Taking a wide variety of liberal arts courses, such as political science or art history, will help you get more experience with a variety of subjects and will make you a more well-rounded reporter or anchor. Get relevant experience at your undergraduate institution. When you're in college, you'll have to do more than just get your bachelor's degree if you want to take your career to the next level. Join your school newspaper and get some practice writing stories, investigating leads, and understanding the hard work needed to provide your audience with a good story. If you have a local college TV station, try to involved there, eventually ending up as an anchor or reporter if you can. If your college does not have a local TV station, go for the local radio station. This will still give you some experience with interviewing others and speaking in an articulate manner. Get some internship experience. You can do this over the summer, between undergraduate semesters, or even after you graduate from college. Getting an internship at a local paper can help you make connections and have a better understanding of the way a news station runs. You may not end up doing much more than answering phones and getting coffee, but if you want to get ahead, you'll have to do it -- with enthusiasm. Getting this experience will help improve your resume greatly. This is the kind of thing that will back up an impressive resume reel. Consider getting a master's degree in journalism. Though a master's degree in journalism isn't required for you to become a TV reporter or a news anchor, it can help you get a leg up in the profession. Most journalism master's programs, such as the one at Columbia University, are only one or two years long. You may have to pay out of pocket for this degree if you can't get funding or a scholarship, so choose wisely. A journalism degree can help you not only get an appreciation for the field of reporting, but it can also help you get a leg up in the application process. Additionally, going to journalism school can help you make valuable connections that may lead to jobs in the future. Learn how to write for TV. You of course learn some of this in school. Writing for TV is very different from writing a term paper. You need to learn how to write to the images your audience will see on TV. It's called writing to video. Also, you should keep writing simple and stay away from legalese and clichés. You have only one shot to get the attention of folks at home. Though news anchors most often read from their notes or from teleprompters (while improvising along the way), most reporters have to write their own copy for when they go in the field. Create a resumé tape. A resumé tape is a reel that shows a sample of your reporting/anchoring skills. It usually starts with a slate – a brief showing of your name and contact information. The slate is usually followed by a montage, which is a short segment of compelling live shots, samples of reporting and anchoring. The montage is then followed by three of your best stories. The best way to get your first resumé tape is to do one in school; otherwise it can be quite expensive. Apply for jobs. When you apply for work, you'll need to send both your resumé tape and an actual resumé. The resume will include any relevant experience and education, such as any volunteer or part-time work you've done in the field. You'll also list any major news stories you've covered as well as your roles in presenting them. You can also include your technical experience and proficiency with digital communication devices or systems, since most stations are tech savvy. Don't just apply to the stations that are hiring. Send your tape and resumé absolutely everywhere that you can send it without being a nuisance. You never know when an opening will appear, and having your tape on the right person's desk at the right time can increase your chances of getting that job. Be willing to move anywhere to get your foot in the door. You won't find your first job three blocks from your house. Jobs are so competitive that you can't be choosy when landing your first job. Sure, you may want to hold out for San Diego, California but if Biloxi, Mississippi offers you your first job, you should probably say yes. Send your tape and apply everywhere you can, and be prepared to step out of your comfort zone. Remember that the more experience you have, the more command you'll have over where you can live and work. You may not have much control over your first job or two, but once you build up a reputation, you'll have more success in applying for work at stations in more coveted locations. Start at a small market television station. Everyone has visions of taking over the NBC Nightly News anchor desk, but the truth of the matter is a tiny portion of people who get into the TV news business will ever make it to a top 10 market. It's a good idea to start your career in a small local market because you can learn all aspects of the business. You will likely do everything like: report, produce, anchor, shoot video, edit and maybe even run the teleprompter with your foot! You'll also get the opportunity to make your mistakes. Audiences are much more forgiving in Mobile, Alabama than they are in New York City. Prepare to get little pay at the beginning. The average reporter job in a small market gets paid between $15,000 and $18,000 a year. Not what you expected? Contrary to popular belief, most TV personalities are not rolling in dough. Television news is a field where the supply outweighs the demand. Basically there are more people who want to be on TV than there are available positions. That's part of the reason why pay is not competitive. Also, if you start at a small market station, you will get small market pay. It's the nature of the business. If making a lot of money in your career is important to you, don't get into TV news! The anchors in the 25 biggest markets make around $130,000 a year, but these are very prestigious positions. Work at bigger stations. Once you've put in at least 3-5 years at a small station and have found some success, you can start moving up in the ranks. Apply for work at larger stations, or even medium-sized stations, and see what you can do. Apply everywhere, not just places that have openings, and use your great experience as a way to back up the fact that you'll be an amazing candidate for the job. Don't think that working at the bigger stations, however, will let you be more flexible and to set your own hours more. Quite the contrary. The more prestigious your position, the more rigorous its demands will be. Find your niche. When you begin, you'll be working as an anchor or a reporter for whatever field is available. But as you advance in your career, you may have more say about what field you'll be reporting in. You can work as a featured news reporter, in consumer news, or in health news, for example. This can depend on your personality and what you like doing the most. If you're more funny and relaxed, then the quirky human interest stories may be more your speed; if you're more serious, then you may cover more intense topics like homicide. If you don't want to be negatively impacted by the news you share, then you may consider working in consumer, medical, or features news. They may be a little less exciting, but they'll also be less emotionally draining. Forget about holidays at home. The truth is you will hardly ever get holidays off. You will most likely be working. Established main anchors at TV stations will most likely get holidays off, which means you will be stuck at work. If you constantly move markets every couple of years to increase your salary and experience, you will always be the new kid on the block, which means you won't have seniority. So, you can kiss Thanksgiving, Christmas, New Year's, Fourth of July, and Labor Day goodbye. Also “sweeps” months (when stations monitor how many people are watching) will be off limits for vacation time. These months include: February, May, July and November. Be prepared for a demanding schedule. You may be placed on the morning shift, the evening shift, a split shift and the weekend shift at any given moment. New reporters especially have very little say in the hours they work. Working overtime is very common and few stations pay overtime. Not only will your schedule be demanding, but it may change at a moment's notice. You'll need to not only be available, but to be flexible. Advance your career. There are a number of ways to advance your career, and this doesn't always mean working at bigger and better news stations. You can go "network hopping," which means moving from one station to the next to gain more responsibilities and to build your reputation. However, if you've had enough of this rigorous lifestyle and have built up enough prestige, then you can consider getting into the talk show forum route, work as a syndicated columnist for a major paper, or even turn to being an author, a public relations specialist, an editor, or a college professor. Just remember that it can take a decade or longer to move past the traditional route of a TV reporter or news anchor. Keep it professional. Unfortunately, unlike in most other professions, if you make a big mistake in the field of reporting or anchoring, it may be on permanent record. You don't want to be the reporter who is famous for cursing on national television or who muttered an objectionable and offensive term in front of hundreds of viewers. If you make a mistake like that, you may not be forgiven. If you're also known for public outbursts, you'll need to get that under control before you get behind the camera. Be persistent. Persistence is a valuable skill any reporter/anchor should have. You'll not only need this skill to land that first job, but you'll need it to move up in the ranks and to really work hard to get that dream job you'll be fighting for. If you investigate your stories yourself, then persistence is a valuable quality that you'll need to make sure you can follow leads, look elsewhere when you get a dead end, and to keep trying until you succeed.	Be an articulate speaker. Look good on camera. Have killer people skills. Be free from bias. Have stellar writing skills. Have ridiculous stamina. Get a bachelor's degree. Get relevant experience at your undergraduate institution. Get some internship experience. Consider getting a master's degree in journalism. Learn how to write for TV. Create a resumé tape. Apply for jobs. Be willing to move anywhere to get your foot in the door. Start at a small market television station. Prepare to get little pay at the beginning. Work at bigger stations. Find your niche. Forget about holidays at home. Be prepared for a demanding schedule. Advance your career. Keep it professional. Be persistent.
https://www.wikihow.com/Avoid-Distractions	How to Avoid Distractions	To avoid distractions, start by shutting off your electronic devices, including your phone, computer, tv, music, and video games. Next, find a comfortable, well-lit place where you can work, uninterrupted, for long periods of time. When other people are present, put on a pair of headphones to discourage them from talking to you, even if you're not listening to anything. Additionally, take on your biggest challenges first, when you feel fresh and focused on the task at hand.	Shut off your phone and other electronics. Before you dive into working, cleaning, writing or whatever else you need to do, turn off or silence your cell phone and anything else that might prove to be a distraction. This includes the TV, video games, etc. Technology is arguably the biggest distraction in modern society, and being surrounded by beeping, buzzing, flashing devices can really hold you back. Unless you use your computer for work, shut it down or set it to hibernate. Disable sound alerts for texts, emails and tweets to keep yourself from looking at your phone every time there's activity. If you have an especially hard time keeping yourself on task, put away potential distractions somewhere that it would be a hassle to get them back out. Leave your phone outside of your bedroom at night, and choose a cut-off time for technology. Put your music on pause. When you really need to buckle down, work in silence and give your thoughts room to stretch. Your mind naturally fixates on melodies, rhythms and lyrics. Music can uplift your spirits and make the time pass faster, but by subconsciously following along with a song playing in the background, you'll be limiting your ability to concentrate whether you realize it or not. Save the tunes for after you've finished a particular project, or for times when you're performing light, mindless tasks. Find out where you work best. If you work from home or are involved in creative endeavors, pick a place where you can work comfortably for long periods of time. This could be a small corner desk, a well-lit sunroom or your favorite coffee shop. The point is to surround yourself with an atmosphere that makes completing tasks easier. Be careful of surroundings that can dull your focus in other ways. People tend to associate spaces with their common uses, so trying to work in a quiet bedroom may just make you sleepy. Make sure you won’t be interrupted. As best you can, try to insulate yourself from being distracted by others when you have big projects that demand your attention. Situate yourself someplace where people are unlikely to pass by and pull you out of your zone. If you work in an office, for instance, shutting the door can relay the message that you'd prefer not to be bothered. This may not always be possible if you share a space with coworkers, customers or children, but you should at least be able to single out which interactions are necessary and which aren't. Organizing your duties in their most efficient logical order can also keep you from having to interrupt your own work later on. Putting on a pair of headphones, even if they're not playing anything, will make you appear busy and discourage people from trying to start casual conversations. Be aware of when you're getting distracted. The second you notice yourself reaching for your phone to check a text message or opening a webpage unrelated to work, stop and cut the distraction off at the pass. In order to combat the most common distractions, you must be able to recognize when they're stealing your attention away. Practice staying mindful of resisting distractions by repeating a phrase like "be here now" or "this is not what I need to be doing" when you catch your attention drifting. Being vigilant of your mind state can help snap you back to reality. Many distractions simply have to be ignored. The brain is well-equipped to block out smaller, less intrusive distractions, but with a little practice you can learn to build up your focus and attention like a muscle. Most people lose so much time to extraneous activities because they fail to notice when they're getting distracted, and only become aware of their mistake once the damage has been done. Resist the urge to procrastinate. Be disciplined about making yourself start working. Procrastination is a major distraction because it allows you to convince yourself that you'll be better off performing a task when you feel more prepared. Once you realize that you'll never get anything done unless you do it now, you won't feel so tempted to put things off. Procrastination is a childish mentality. It can cause you to avoid responsibility in favor of feeling good right now. Research has shown that people rarely meet with more success when they put things off until later as opposed to doing them right away. Focus with intention. Sometimes you have to remind yourself to actively focus. Many people never truly learn how to stay focused and find it difficult to keep their minds from wandering when there's work to be done. Try to shut off your own mental distractions so that you can zero in on checking items off your to-do list. It's not enough to simply know that you need to focus; you have to apply yourself to the action you're performing in the moment. It can help to remember that the best way to get everything done is to put all your effort toward one thing at a time. Start by seeing a specific task or project through to completion, then move onto another, then another, until you've met your goal for the day. Get away from the source of your distractions. Physically remove yourself from a certain set of distractions that's leaching your mental power. Pack the materials you need for work or a creative project and head down to the library or a quiet cafe where you can peacefully resume your labors. By isolating yourself, you'll be able to literally escape the distractions that you just can't ignore. If you're powerless before a certain distraction, sometimes you just have to cut and run. Even if you're unable to literally leave the worst of your distractions behind, there are still things you can do to rid them from your mind. Leave your phone at home, turn off your wi-fi and close every tab you have open that isn't helping you with your current task. An ideal working environment is one where there are as few distractions present as possible. This can mean persistent annoyances like cell phones, computers and social media, but it can also include anything that reminds you of what you'd rather be doing. Set aside specific times to work. Find out what time of day you do your best work and structure your to-do list around those hours. If you're a morning person, wake up and get busy before you stall out and lose motivation. Night owls can divide their chores up between regular working hours and free time after everyone else has gone to bed. Most people are realistically only able to stay focused for a few hours a day, so be sure that you're making the best use of that time. Develop a habit of working at the same time every day, and make yourself stick to it. If you keep odd or irregular hours, let others know when you're working to keep from being bothered. Do your most important work first. Have a clear idea in mind of what you need to get done and take care of the biggest challenges first. That way, you'll at least be assured that the most crucial tasks have been dealt with. Be able to prioritize wisely so that any leftover work can be knocked out with minimal time and energy. After a while, the anxiety of facing a mountain of unfinished work will disappear. When you have a proposal to outline, meetings to schedule and emails to answer, it can be easy to start feeling overwhelmed. By completing the outline first, however, then using the rest of your day to get your schedule in order and follow up on correspondences, you can save yourself a lot of rush and stress. Give yourself a daily minimum of things to do. Rather than looking at everything you need to do at once, assign yourself one or two daily goals to achieve. Keep these goals small and attainable. You might find that you have a hard time motivating yourself go out and build a fence around your backyard if you can only think of how much time, effort and expense it will take. If you instead tell yourself that you only need to dig the holes for the posts one day, then plant them the next day, and so on, your responsibilities will no longer seem so daunting. Start with modest, specific daily minimums and build them up as you grow more confident. You're much more likely to exceed your expectations if you resolve to spend ten minutes on the treadmill, rather than simply saying “I have to exercise today.” With few exceptions, most goals will take time to accomplish. Break yourself of the habit of thinking you need to get everything done immediately or all at once. Plotting manageable short-term goals keeps you from biting off more than you can chew. Take breaks judiciously. Take frequent, short breaks and use them to take care of your physical needs and renew your motivation. A good guideline is to break for 12-15 minutes after every hour of work you do. Use that time to go to the bathroom, drink a glass of water, have a snack or rest your eyes. Don't succumb to the temptation to send personal texts or see what's on TV. The more you let your thoughts stray, the tougher it will be to return them to the task at hand. Most people can only maintain their focus for about an hour at a time or less. It can be counterproductive to force yourself to keep working beyond this point, as it becomes more likely that you'll start making mistakes or miss important information. Go for a quick walk or do some light stretching during your breaks to keep your blood flowing. This can help you stay mentally sharp and ready to jump back into things. Get plenty of rest. Aim to get a full night's sleep every evening. Exactly how much sleep you may need will vary, but most people require at least six hours a night to function at their best. When you're rested, your ability to think and perform goes way up. Sleeping puts your mind at ease after obsessing over productivity all day, and gives you a much needed break from thinking about what all you have to do tomorrow. Turn off all electronic devices at least an hour before bed—these can keep you wired. If you're extremely busy, supplement the amount of sleep you get with short naps throughout the day.	Shut off your phone and other electronics. Put your music on pause. Find out where you work best. Make sure you won’t be interrupted. Be aware of when you're getting distracted. Resist the urge to procrastinate. Focus with intention. Get away from the source of your distractions. Set aside specific times to work. Do your most important work first. Give yourself a daily minimum of things to do. Take breaks judiciously. Get plenty of rest.
https://www.wikihow.com/Calculate-Effective-Interest-Rate	How to Calculate Effective Interest Rate	To calculate effective interest rate, start by finding the stated interest rate and the number of compounding periods for the loan, which should have been provided by the lender. Then, plug this information into the formula r = (1 + i/n)^n - 1, where i is the stated interest rate, n is the number of compounding periods, and r is the effective interest rate. Solve the formula, convert your answer to a percentage, and you're finished!	Familiarize yourself with the concept of the effective interest rate. The effective interest rate attempts to describe the full cost of borrowing. It takes into account the effect of compounding interest, which is left out of the nominal or "stated" interest rate. For example, a loan with 10 percent interest compounded monthly will actually carry an interest rate higher than 10 percent, because more interest is accumulated each month. The effective interest rate calculation does not take into account one-time fees like loan origination fees. These fees are considered, however, in the calculation of the annual percentage rate. Determine the stated interest rate. The stated (also called nominal) interest rate will be expressed as a percentage. The stated interest rate is usually the "headline" interest rate. It's the number that the lender typically advertises as the interest rate. Determine the number of compounding periods for the loan. The compounding periods will generally be monthly, quarterly, annually, or continuously. This refers to how often the interest is applied. Usually, the compounding period is monthly. You'll still want to check with your lender to verify that, though. Familiarize yourself with the formula for converting the stated interest rate to the effective interest rate. The effective interest rate is calculated through a simple formula: r = (1 + i/n)^n - 1. In this formula, r represents the effective interest rate, i represents the stated interest rate, and n represents the number of compounding periods per year. Calculate the effective interest rate using the formula above. For example, consider a loan with a stated interest rate of 5 percent that is compounded monthly. Using the formula yields: r = (1 +.05/12)^12 - 1, or r = 5.12 percent. The same loan compounded daily would yield: r = (1 +.05/365)^365 - 1, or r = 5.13 percent. Note that the effective interest rate will always be greater than the stated rate. Familiarize yourself with the formula used in case of continuously compounding interest. If interest is compounded continuously, you should calculate the effective interest rate using a different formula: r = e^i - 1. In this formula, r is the effective interest rate, i is the stated interest rate, and e is the constant 2.718. Calculate the effective interest rate in case of continuously compounding interest. For example, consider a loan with a nominal interest rate of 9 percent compounded continuously. The formula above yields: r = 2.718^.09 - 1, or 9.417 percent. After reading and fully understanding the theory, calculation can be simplified in the following way. After familiarising the theory, do the maths differently. Find the number of intervals for a year. It is 2 for semi-annual, 4 for quarterly, 12 for monthly, 365 for daily. Number of intervals per year x 100 plus the interest rate. If the interest rate is 5%, it is 205 for semi-annual, 405 for quarterly, 1205 for monthly, 36505 for daily compounding. Effective interest is the value in excess of 100, when the principal is 100. Do the maths as: ((205÷200)^2)×100 = 105.0625 ((405÷400)^4)×100 = 105.095 ((1,205÷1,200)^12)×100=105.116 ((36,505÷36,500)^365)×100 = 105.127 The value exceeding 100 in case 'a' is the effective interest rate when compounding is semi-annual. Hence 5.063 is the effective interest rate for semi-annual, 5.094 for quarterly, 5.116 for monthly, and 5.127 for daily compounding. Just memorise in the form of a theorem. (No of intervals x 100 plus interest )divided by (number of intervals x100) raised to the power of intervals, the result multiplied by 100. The value exceeding 100 will be the effective interest yield.	Familiarize yourself with the concept of the effective interest rate. Determine the stated interest rate. Determine the number of compounding periods for the loan. Familiarize yourself with the formula for converting the stated interest rate to the effective interest rate. Calculate the effective interest rate using the formula above. Familiarize yourself with the formula used in case of continuously compounding interest. Calculate the effective interest rate in case of continuously compounding interest. After reading and fully understanding the theory, calculation can be simplified in the following way.
https://www.wikihow.com/Find-the-Inverse-of-a-Quadratic-Function	How to Find the Inverse of a Quadratic Function	To find the inverse of a quadratic function, start by simplifying the function by combining like terms. Then, determine the domain and range of the simplified function. Once you have the domain and range, switch the roles of the x and y terms in the function and rewrite the inverted equation in terms of y. Finally, determine the domain and range of the inverse function.	Look for a function in the form of y=ax2+c{\displaystyle y=ax^{2}+c}. If you have the “right” kind of function to begin, you can find the inverse using some simple algebra. This form is something of a variation of y = a x 2 + c {\displaystyle y=ax^{2}+c}. Comparing this to a standard form quadratic function, y = a x 2 + b x + c {\displaystyle y=ax^{2}+bx+c} , you should notice that the central term, b x {\displaystyle bx} , is missing. Another way to say this is that the value of b is 0. If your function is in this form, finding the inverse is fairly easy. Your beginning function does not have to look exactly like y = a x 2 + c {\displaystyle y=ax^{2}+c}. As long as you can look at it and see that the function consists only of x 2 {\displaystyle x^{2}} terms and constant numbers, you will be able to use this method. For example, suppose you begin with the equation, 2 y − 6 + x 2 = y + 3 x 2 − 4 {\displaystyle 2y-6+x^{2}=y+3x^{2}-4}. A quick examination of this equation shows that there are no terms of x {\displaystyle x} to the first power. This equation is a candidate for this method to find an inverse function. Simplify by combining like terms. The initial equation may have multiple terms in a combination of addition and subtraction. Your first step is to combine like terms to simplify the equation and rewrite it in the standard format of y = a x 2 + c {\displaystyle y=ax^{2}+c}. Taking the sample equation, 2 y − 6 + x 2 = y + 3 x 2 − 4 {\displaystyle 2y-6+x^{2}=y+3x^{2}-4} , the y-terms can be consolidated on the left by subtracting a y from both sides. The other terms can be consolidated on the right by adding 6 to both sides and subtracting x^2 from both sides. The resulting equation will be y = 2 x 2 + 2 {\displaystyle y=2x^{2}+2}. Determine the domain and range of the simplified function. Recall that the domain of a function consists of the possible values of x that can be applied to provide a real solution. The range of a function consists of the values of y that will result. To determine the domain of the function, look for values that create a mathematically impossible result. You will then report the domain as all other values of x. To find the range, consider the values of y at any boundary points and look at the behavior of the function. Consider the sample equation y = 2 x 2 + 2 {\displaystyle y=2x^{2}+2}. There is no limitation on allowable values of x for this equation. However, you should recognize that this is the equation of a parabola, centered at x=0, and a parabola is not a function because it does not consist of a one-to-one mapping of x and y values. To limit this equation and make it a function, for which we can find an inverse, we must define the domain as x≥0. The range is similarly limited. Notice that the first term, 2 x 2 {\displaystyle 2x^{2}} , will always be positive or 0, for any value of x. When the equation then adds +2, the range will be any values y≥2. Defining the domain and range at this early stage is necessary. You will use these definitions later in defining the domain and range of the inverse function. In fact, the domain of the original function will become the range of the inverse function, and the range of the original will become the domain of the inverse. Switch the roles of the x and y terms. Without changing the equation in any other way, you need to replace all appearance of y with an x, and all appearances of x with a y. This is the step that actually “inverts” the equation. Working with the sample equation y = 2 x 2 + 2 {\displaystyle y=2x^{2}+2} , this inversion step will result in the new equation of x = 2 y 2 + 2 {\displaystyle x=2y^{2}+2}. An alternate format is to replace the y terms with x, but replace the x terms with either y − 1 {\displaystyle y^{-}1} or f ( x ) − 1 {\displaystyle f(x)^{-}1} to indicate the inverse function. Rewrite the inverted equation in terms of y. Using a combination of algebraic steps, and taking care to perform the same operation evenly on both sides of the equation, you will need to isolate the y variable. For the working equation x = 2 y 2 + 2 {\displaystyle x=2y^{2}+2} , this revision will look like the following: x = 2 y 2 + 2 {\displaystyle x=2y^{2}+2} (original starting point) x − 2 = 2 y 2 {\displaystyle x-2=2y^{2}} (subtract 2 from both sides) x − 2 2 = y 2 {\displaystyle {\frac {x-2}{2}}=y^{2}} (divide both sides by 2) ± x − 2 2 = y {\displaystyle {\sqrt {\frac {x-2}{2}}}=y} (square root of both sides; remember that the square root results in both positive and negative possible answers) Determine the domain and range of the inverse function. As you did at the beginning, examine the inverted equation to define its domain and range. With two possible solutions, you will select the one that has a domain and range that are inverses of the original domain and range. Examine the sample equation solution of ± x − 2 2 = y {\displaystyle {\sqrt {\frac {x-2}{2}}}=y}. Because the square root function is not defined for any negative values, the term x − 2 2 {\displaystyle {\frac {x-2}{2}}} must always be positive. Therefore, allowable values of x (the domain) must be x≥2. Using that as the domain, the resulting values of y (the range) are either all values y≥0, if you take the positive solution of the square root, or y≤0, if you select the negative solution of the square root. Recall that you originally defined the domain as x≥0, in order to be able to find the inverse function. Therefore, the correct solution for the inverse function is the positive option. Compare the domain and range of the inverse to the domain and range of the original. Recall that for the original function, y = 2 x 2 + 2 {\displaystyle y=2x^{2}+2} , the domain was defined as all values of x≥0, and the range was defined as all values y≥2. For the inverse function, now, these values switch, and the domain is all values x≥2, and the range is all values of y≥0. Check that your inverse function works. To make sure that your work is correct and your inverse is the right equation, select any value for x and place it into the original equation to find y. Then, put that value of y in the place of x in your inverse equation, and see if you generate the number that you started with. If so, your inverse function is correct. As a sample, select the value x=1 to place in the original equation y = 2 x 2 + 2 {\displaystyle y=2x^{2}+2}. This gives the result y=4. Next, place that value of 4 into the inverse function x − 2 2 = y {\displaystyle {\sqrt {\frac {x-2}{2}}}=y}. This does give the result of y=1. You can conclude that your inverse function is correct. Set up the quadratic equation in the proper form. In order to begin finding the inverse, you must begin with the equation in the format f ( x ) = a x 2 + b x + c {\displaystyle f(x)=ax^{2}+bx+c}. If necessary, you may need to combine similar terms to get the equation into this format. With the equation written this way, you can begin to tell some information about it. The first thing to notice is the value of the coefficient a. If a>0, then the equation defines a parabola whose ends point upward. If a<0, the equation defines a parabola whose ends point downward. Notice that a≠0. If it did, then this would be a linear function and not quadratic. Recognize the standard format of the quadratic. Before you can find the inverse function, you will need to rewrite your equation into the standard format. The standard format for any quadratic function is f ( x ) = a ( x − h ) 2 + k {\displaystyle f(x)=a(x-h)^{2}+k}. The numerical terms a, h and k will be developed as you transform the equation through a process known as completing the square. Notice that this standard format consists of a perfect square term, ( x − h ) 2 {\displaystyle (x-h)^{2}} , which is then adjusted by the other two elements a and k. To get to this perfect square form, you will need to create certain conditions in your quadratic equation. Recall the form of a perfect square quadratic function. Remember that a quadratic function that is a perfect square originates with two binomials of ( x + b ) ( x + b ) {\displaystyle (x+b)(x+b)} , or ( x + b ) 2 {\displaystyle (x+b)^{2}}. When you perform this multiplication, you get a result of x 2 + 2 b x + b 2 {\displaystyle x^{2}+2bx+b^{2}}. Thus, the first term of the quadratic is the first term of the binomial, squared, and the last term of the quadratic is the square of the second term of the binomial. The middle term is comprised of 2 times the product of the two terms, in this case 2 ∗ x ∗ b {\displaystyle 2xb}. To complete the square, you will be working in reverse. You will start with x 2 {\displaystyle x^{2}} and some second x-term. From the coefficient of that term, which you can define as “2b,” you will need to find b 2 {\displaystyle b^{2}}. This will require a combination of dividing by two and then squaring that result. Make sure the coefficient on x2{\displaystyle x^{2}} is 1. Recall the original form of the quadratic function a x 2 + b x + c {\displaystyle ax^{2}+bx+c}. If the first coefficient is anything other than 1, then you must divide all terms by that value, to set a=1. For example, consider the quadratic function f ( x ) = 2 x 2 + 6 x − 4 {\displaystyle f(x)=2x^{2}+6x-4}. You must simplify this by dividing all terms by 2, to yield the resulting function f ( x ) = 2 ( x 2 + 3 x − 2 ) {\displaystyle f(x)=2(x^{2}+3x-2)}. The coefficient 2 will remain outside of the parentheses and will be part of your final solution. If all terms are not multiples of a, you will wind up with fractional coefficients. For example, the function f ( x ) = 3 x 2 − 2 x + 6 {\displaystyle f(x)=3x^{2}-2x+6} will simplify to f ( x ) = 3 ( x 2 − 2 x 3 + 2 ) {\displaystyle f(x)=3(x^{2}-{\frac {2x}{3}}+2)}. Work carefully with the fractions as necessary. Find one-half of the middle coefficient and square it. You already have the first two terms of the perfect square quadratic. These are the x 2 {\displaystyle x^{2}} term and whatever coefficient appears in front of the x-term. By taking that coefficient to be whatever value it is, you will add or subtract whatever number is necessary to create a perfect square quadratic. Recall from above that the required third term of the quadratic is this second coefficient, divided by two, and then squared. For example, if the first two terms of your quadratic function are x 2 + 3 x {\displaystyle x^{2}+3x} , you will find the needed third term by dividing 3 by 2, which gives the result 3/2, and then squaring that, to get 9/4. The quadratic x 2 + 3 x + 9 / 4 {\displaystyle x^{2}+3x+9/4} is a perfect square. As another example, suppose your first two terms are x 2 − 4 x {\displaystyle x^{2}-4x}. Half of the middle term is -2, and then you square that to get 4. The resulting perfect square quadratic is x 2 − 4 x + 4 {\displaystyle x^{2}-4x+4}. Add AND subtract the needed third term, at the same time. This is a tricky concept but it works. By both adding and subtracting the same number in different locations of your function, you are really making no change to the value of the function. However, doing this will allow you to get your function into the proper format. Suppose you have the function f ( x ) = x 2 − 4 x + 9 {\displaystyle f(x)=x^{2}-4x+9}. As noted above, you will use the first two terms to work on completing the square. Using the middle term of -4x, you will generate a third term of +4. Add and subtract 4 to the equation, in the form f ( x ) = ( x 2 − 4 x + 4 ) + 9 − 4 {\displaystyle f(x)=(x^{2}-4x+4)+9-4}. The parentheses are placed just to define the perfect square quadratic that you are creating. Notice the +4 inside the parentheses and the -4 on the outside. Simplify the numbers to give the result of f ( x ) = ( x 2 − 4 x + 4 ) + 5 {\displaystyle f(x)=(x^{2}-4x+4)+5}. Factor the perfect square quadratic. The polynomial inside the parentheses should be a perfect square quadratic, which you can rewrite in the form ( x + b ) 2 {\displaystyle (x+b)^{2}}. In the example from the prior step, f ( x ) = ( x 2 − 4 x + 4 ) + 5 {\displaystyle f(x)=(x^{2}-4x+4)+5} , the quadratic factors into ( x − 2 ) 2 {\displaystyle (x-2)^{2}}. Carry along the rest of the equation, so your solution will be f ( x ) = ( x − 2 ) 2 + 5 {\displaystyle f(x)=(x-2)^{2}+5}. This is the same function as your original quadratic, f ( x ) = x 2 − 4 x + 9 {\displaystyle f(x)=x^{2}-4x+9} , simply revised into standard f ( x ) = a ( x − h ) 2 + k {\displaystyle f(x)=a(x-h)^{2}+k} form. Notice that for this function, a=1, h=2, and k=5. The value of writing the equation in this form is that a, being positive, tells you that the parabola points upward. The values of (h,k) tell you the apex point at the bottom of the parabola, if you wanted to graph it. Define the domain and range of the function. The domain is the set of x-values that can be used as input into the function. The range is the set of y-values that can be the outcome. Recall that a parabola is not a function with a definable inverse, because there is not a one-to-one mapping of x-values to y-values, as a result of the symmetry of the parabola. To resolve this problem, you need to define the domain as all values of x that are greater than x=h, the apex point of the parabola. Continue working with the sample function f ( x ) = ( x − 2 ) 2 + 5 {\displaystyle f(x)=(x-2)^{2}+5}. Because this is in standard format, you can identify the apex point as x=2, y=5. Thus, to avoid the symmetry, you will only work with the right-side of the graph, and set the domain as all values x≥2. Inserting the value x=2 into the function gives the result of y=5. You can see that the values of y will increase as x increases. Therefore the range of this equation is y≥5. Switch the x and y values. This is the step where you begin to find the inverted form of the equation. Leave the equation in its entirety, except for switching these variables. Continue to work with the function f ( x ) = ( x − 2 ) 2 + 5 {\displaystyle f(x)=(x-2)^{2}+5}. Insert x in place of f(x), and insert y (or f(x), if you prefer) in place of x. This will yield the new function x = ( y − 2 ) 2 + 5 {\displaystyle x=(y-2)^{2}+5}. Rewrite the inverted equation in terms of y. Using a combination of algebraic steps, and taking care to perform the same operation evenly on both sides of the equation, you will need to isolate the y variable. For the working equation x = ( y − 2 ) 2 + 5 {\displaystyle x=(y-2)^{2}+5} , this revision will look like the following: x = ( y − 2 ) 2 + 5 {\displaystyle x=(y-2)^{2}+5} (original starting point) x − 5 = ( y − 2 ) 2 {\displaystyle x-5=(y-2)^{2}} (subract 5 from both sides) ± x − 5 = y − 2 {\displaystyle {\sqrt {x-5}}=y-2} (square root of both sides; remember that the square root results in both positive and negative possible answers) ± x − 5 + 2 = y {\displaystyle {\sqrt {x-5}}+2=y} (add 2 to both sides) Determine the domain and range of the inverse function. As you did at the beginning, examine the inverted equation to define its domain and range. With two possible solutions, you will select the one that has a domain and range that are inverses of the original domain and range. Examine the sample equation solution of ± x − 5 + 2 = y {\displaystyle {\sqrt {x-5}}+2=y}. Because the square root function is not defined for any negative values, the term x − 5 {\displaystyle {x-5}} must always be positive. Therefore, allowable values of x (the domain) must be x≥5. Using that as the domain, the resulting values of y (the range) are either all values y≥2, if you take the positive solution of the square root, or y≤2 if you select the negative solution of the square root. Recall that you originally defined the domain as x≥2, in order to be able to find the inverse function. Therefore, the correct solution for the inverse function is the positive option. Compare the domain and range of the inverse to the domain and range of the original. Recall that for the original function the domain was defined as all values of x≥2, and the range was defined as all values y≥5. For the inverse function, now, these values switch, and the domain is all values x≥5, and the range is all values of y≥2. Check that your inverse function works. To make sure that your work is correct and your inverse is the right equation, select any value for x and place it into the original equation to find y. Then, put that value of y in the place of x in your inverse equation, and see if you generate the number that you started with. If so, your inverse function is correct. As a sample, select the value x=3 to place in the original equation f ( x ) = x 2 − 4 x + 9 {\displaystyle f(x)=x^{2}-4x+9}. This gives the result y=6. Next, place that value of 6 into the inverse function x − 5 + 2 = y {\displaystyle {\sqrt {x-5}}+2=y}. This does give the result of y=3, which is the number you started with. You can conclude that your inverse function is correct. Remember the Quadratic Formula for solving x. Recall that, when solving quadratic equations, one method was to factor them, if possible. If factoring did not work, then you could resort to the Quadratic Formula, which would yield the real solutions for any quadratic formula. You can use the Quadratic Formula as another method to find inverse functions. The Quadratic Formula is x=[-b±√(b^2-4ac)]/2a. Notice that the Quadratic Formula will result in two possible solutions, one positive and one negative. You will make this selection based on defining the domain and range of the function. Begin with a quadratic equation to find the inverse. Your quadratic equation must begin in the format f ( x ) = a x 2 + b x + c {\displaystyle f(x)=ax^{2}+bx+c}. Take whatever algebraic steps you must in order to get your equation into that form. For this section of this article, use the sample equation f ( x ) = x 2 + 2 x − 3 {\displaystyle f(x)=x^{2}+2x-3}. Graph the equation to define the domain and range. Determine the graph of the function, either by using a graphing calculator or just plotting various points until the parabola appears. You will find that this equation defines a parabola with its apex at (-1,-4). Thus, to define this as a function that will have an inverse, define the domain as all values of x≤-1. The range will then be all y≥-4. Interchange the variables x and y. To begin finding the inverse, switch the variables x and y. Leave the equation unchanged, except for reversing the variables. At this stage, you will replace x for f(x). Using the working equation f ( x ) = x 2 + 2 x − 3 {\displaystyle f(x)=x^{2}+2x-3} , this will give the result x = y 2 + 2 y − 3 {\displaystyle x=y^{2}+2y-3}. Set the left size of the equation equal to 0. Recall that to use the Quadratic Formula, you must set your equation equal to 0, and then use the coefficients in the formula. Similarly, this method of finding an inverse function begins by setting the equation equal to 0. For the sample equation, to get the left side equal to 0, you must subtract x from both sides of the equation. This will give the result 0 = y 2 + 2 y − 3 − x {\displaystyle 0=y^{2}+2y-3-x}. Redefine the variables to fit the Quadratic Formula. This step is a bit tricky. Recall that the Quadratic Formula solves for x, in the equation 0 = a x 2 + b x + c {\displaystyle 0=ax^{2}+bx+c}. So, to get the equation you currently have, 0 = y 2 + 2 y − 3 − x {\displaystyle 0=y^{2}+2y-3-x} , to match that format, you need to redefine terms as follows: Let y 2 = a x 2 {\displaystyle y^{2}=ax^{2}}. Therefore, x=1 Let 2 y = b x {\displaystyle 2y=bx}. Therefore, b=2 Let ( − 3 − x ) = c {\displaystyle (-3-x)=c}. Therefore, c=(-3-x) Solve the Quadratic Formula using those redefined values. Normally, you would place the values of a, b and c into the Quadratic Formula to solve for x. However, recall that you previously switched x and y for finding the inverse function. Therefore, when you use the Quadratic Formula to solve for x, you are really solving for y, or the f-inverse. The steps of solving the Quadratic Formula will work like this: x=[-b±√(b^2-4ac)]/2a x=(-2)±√((-2)^2-4(1)(-3-x)) / 2(1) x=((-2)±√(4+12+4x))/2 x=(-2±√(16+4x))/2 x=(-2±√(4)(4+x))/2 x=-2±2√(4+x))/2 x=-1±√(4+x) f-inverse = -1±√(4+x) (This final step is possible because you earlier put x in place of the f(x) variable.) Write out the two possible solutions. Notice that the Quadratic Formula gives two possible results, using the ± symbol. Write out the two separate solutions to make it easier to define the domain and range and make the correct final solution. These two solutions are: f − 1 = − 1 + 4 + x {\displaystyle f^{-1}=-1+{\sqrt {4+x}}} f − 1 = − 1 − 4 + x {\displaystyle f^{-1}=-1-{\sqrt {4+x}}} Define the domain and range of the inverse function. Notice that, for the square root to be defined, the domain must be x≥-4. Recall that the domain of the original function was x≤-1 and the range was y≥-4. To choose the inverse function that matches, you will need to choose the second solution, f − 1 = − 1 − 4 + x {\displaystyle f^{-1}=-1-{\sqrt {4+x}}} as the correct inverse function. Check that your inverse function works. To make sure that your work is correct and your inverse is the right equation, select any value for x and place it into the original equation to find y. Then, put that value of y in the place of x in your inverse equation, and see if you generate the number that you started with. If so, your inverse function is correct. Using the original function f ( x ) = x 2 + 2 x − 3 {\displaystyle f(x)=x^{2}+2x-3} , choose x=-2. This will give the result of y=-3. Now put the value of x=-3 into the inverse function, f − 1 = − 1 − 4 + x {\displaystyle f^{-1}=-1-{\sqrt {4+x}}}. This turns out the result of -2, which is indeed the value that you started with. Therefore, your definition of the inverse function is correct.	Look for a function in the form of y=ax2+c{\displaystyle y=ax^{2}+c}. Simplify by combining like terms. Determine the domain and range of the simplified function. Switch the roles of the x and y terms. Rewrite the inverted equation in terms of y. Determine the domain and range of the inverse function. Check that your inverse function works. Set up the quadratic equation in the proper form. Recognize the standard format of the quadratic. Recall the form of a perfect square quadratic function. Make sure the coefficient on x2{\displaystyle x^{2}} is 1. Find one-half of the middle coefficient and square it. Add AND subtract the needed third term, at the same time. Factor the perfect square quadratic. Define the domain and range of the function. Switch the x and y values. Rewrite the inverted equation in terms of y. Determine the domain and range of the inverse function. Check that your inverse function works. Remember the Quadratic Formula for solving x. Begin with a quadratic equation to find the inverse. Graph the equation to define the domain and range. Interchange the variables x and y. Set the left size of the equation equal to 0. Redefine the variables to fit the Quadratic Formula. Solve the Quadratic Formula using those redefined values. Write out the two possible solutions. Define the domain and range of the inverse function. Check that your inverse function works.
https://www.wikihow.com/Teach-Your-Dog-the-Stop-Barking-Command	How to Teach Your Dog the Stop Barking Command	To teach your dog the "stop barking" command, start by teaching it how to “speak” so you can control when it's allowed to bark. Start by putting some treats in your pocket, telling your dog to “speak” while triggering the action with a knock or doorbell, and rewarding it when it barks. Once your dog is barking on command, place a treat in front of its nose while it's barking to get it to stop and sniff. Then, say “quiet” as soon as it stops barking, and give it the reward. When you feel confident that your dog understands "quiet," have someone ring the doorbell, give the command, and reward your dog when it stops barking.	Command your dog to “speak. ” Though it may seem counterintuitive, it is important that you start by getting your dog to learn the “speak” command. Doing this will allow you to control when your dog speaks or barks and when he is silent. Practice this command in a quiet place in your home with no distractions. Put a few treats in your pocket so they are on hand during the training session. Start by telling your dog to “speak.” Wait for him to bark two to three times. Then reward the dog with a high value treat or a favorite toy to show it that you want this behavior. Trigger your dog to bark. If your dog does not bark when you command him to speak, you may try triggering him so he barks. Ring the doorbell to get him to bark or make a noise at the door. Once he starts barking, say “speak” and use a hand signal to encourage the barking. You can use a hand signal like clapping or snapping. You can also use a clicker when you say “speak” if your dog uses clicker training. Place a treat in front of your dog. Once your dog starts barking, place a treat in front of his nose. He should eventually stop barking to sniff the treat. Praise your dog with a “Good job” or “Good work” and give him the treat. Repeat these actions several times until your dog starts barking when you say “speak”. You may also do the necessary hand gesture or click the clicker to trigger him to speak. Encourage your dog to bark. Start by getting your dog to bark with the “speak” command. You want to make sure you can control when your dog barks with this command. It will make it easier for you to get your dog to stop barking if you can control when he barks. If your dog struggles with the “speak” command, you may need to practice this command a bit more with your pup before you move on to the “stop barking” command. Be patient and give your dog time to learn the “speak” command before you move onto the “stop barking” command. Say “quiet” with a hand signal or a clicker. Once your dog starts barking, say “quiet.” Place a treat in front of his nose and wait for him to stop barking so he can sniff at the treat. You may try practicing the “stop barking” command by the front door or by another area where your dog tends to bark uncontrollably. This can help to teach him that he needs to be quiet and stop barking no matter where he is in your home. Delay the reward until your dog is quiet. Let your dog see the treat but do not give it to him until he stops barking and is quiet. When he stops barking, give him the treat and praise him. You may say “Good job” or “Good work” and give him a pet on the head. Put the cues together. Start by commanding your dog to “speak.” Then, put a treat in front of him and say “quiet.” Only give your dog the treat if he stops barking. You may need to repeat these cues several times to ensure your dog understands and has learned the commands. You may also delay the reward for “quiet” for longer periods of time to ensure your dog understands that “quiet” means to stop barking for a continued stretch of time. You may delay the reward for 30 seconds and then for one minute to ensure your dog understands he needs to be quiet. Test the command. When you feel confident that your dog understands the “quiet” command, you should test it out. Have someone ring the doorbell or do something else that triggers your dog's barking while you and your dog are inside. Your dog will likely bark at the presence of someone at the door and at the sound of the doorbell. Say the “quiet” command to your dog. Wait for your dog to stop barking, even while the doorbell is ringing, and give him a treat as a reward. You can also test this command at the dog park when the dog is around other dogs. You may do the “quiet” command when your dog spots another dog to ensure he does not bark. Remove your dog's motivations to bark. You can prevent your dog from barking by adjusting his environment so he is less likely to get agitated or territorial. If your dog tends to bark at people passing by on the street from the window, close the curtains or the blinds so he cannot see outside and be triggered to bark. You may also try keeping your dog indoors when you are not home, as leaving your dog in the front yard or backyard can expose him to people and other triggers that can lead to barking. Try not to get your dog riled up when someone is at the door as this can lead to barking. Do not ask, “Who's at the door?” or “Who's that?” when someone rings the bell. Instead, act calm and give the “quiet” command so your dog does not bark when someone is at the door. It is important for you to minimize the things your dog barks at by keeping a calm demeanor. If you treat things like they aren't a big deal, then so will your dog. Make sure you exercise your dog on a daily basis. A tired out dog is less likely to get agitated and bark at people at the door or people passing by. You should take your dog for daily walks and have play sessions with him on a consistent basis. Doing this will ensure your dog is healthy and suitably worn out, which can make it easier for him to stay quiet and calm at home. Smaller breeds may require only a short walk outside or around the neighborhood on a daily basis to go to the bathroom and get some exercise. Larger breeds may need longer walks outside and trips to the dog park to get some exercise. Keep your commands and rules consistent. A big part of training your dog properly is sticking to the same commands and rules. Changing up the rules can confuse your dog and lead to erratic behavior from your dog. Stick to the same commands and rules for your dog to ensure he behaves at his best and is not prone to barking. You should also make sure everyone in your household also uses the same commands and rules for your dog. If you live with others, you may need to have a house meeting where you outline the rules for the dog so everyone is on the same page and agrees to stick to a consistent set of commands. See a certified trainer. If your dog still struggles with the "stop barking" command, you may need to bring him to a certified trainer. The trainer can help your dog get used to the command and tell you about obedience techniques you can try with your dog. You can find a certified trainer by speaking to your vet or to other pet owners.	Command your dog to “speak. Trigger your dog to bark. Place a treat in front of your dog. Encourage your dog to bark. Say “quiet” with a hand signal or a clicker. Delay the reward until your dog is quiet. Put the cues together. Test the command. Remove your dog's motivations to bark. Make sure you exercise your dog on a daily basis. Keep your commands and rules consistent. See a certified trainer.
https://www.wikihow.com/Access-a-Router	How to Access a Router	To access a router on a Windows computer, you'll first need to find the router address. Make sure your computer is connected to the internet, then open Start, click Settings, and choose Network & Internet. Scroll down to the bottom of the page and click the blue link that says "View your network properties." On the page that appears, find and copy the number under "Default gateway." Next, open your web browser of choice and enter the number into the URL box. After you press enter, you may be prompted to enter your router's username and password, which will most likely be "admin" and "password." Once you make it to your router's settings page, you can make changes like giving your network a new name or securing your WiFi with a password.	Make sure your computer is connected to the Internet. Once your computer is on the router's network, you can use your computer's settings to determine the router's address, which will in turn allow you to open the router's settings. If your wireless connection isn't working properly, you can connect directly to the router. Open Start . Click the Windows logo in the bottom-left corner of the screen. Click Settings . It's in the bottom-left side of the Start window. Click Network & Internet. This globe-shaped icon is on the Settings page. Click View your network properties. It's near the bottom of the page, though you may have to scroll down to see this option. Note the number next to the "Default gateway" heading. This is the router's address, which you'll use to access the router's settings online. Make sure your computer is connected to the Internet. Once your computer is on the router's network, you can use your computer's settings to determine the router's address, which will in turn allow you to open the router's settings. If your wireless connection isn't working properly, you can connect directly to the router. Open the Apple menu . It's in the top-left corner of your Mac's screen. Click System Preferences. This option is near the top of the Apple drop-down menu. Click Network. It's a globe-shaped icon on the System Preferences page. Click Advanced. This button is in the middle of the page. Click the TCP/IP tab. You'll find it near the top of the Advanced window. Note the number next to the '"Router:" heading. This is the router's address, which you'll use to access the router's settings online. Open a web browser. To access your router's settings, you'll need to go online. Enter your router's address. Type the router's address into your browser's address bar and press ↵ Enter. This will take you to your router's page. Enter your router's username and password if prompted. If you haven't set up your router's username and password, you'll likely use "admin" for the username and "password" for the password. Consult your router's manual for more information about the default username and password. If you did change your router's password and/or username but you don't remember what it is, you can reset your router to restore the factory settings. Review your router's settings. Each router's page will differ slightly, but you can usually find the following information on every router's page: Settings - View your router's settings, from the password and the current connection strength to the type of security your connection uses. SSID - Your network's name. This is the name that you and others see when connecting to the Wi-Fi. Connected Devices - View a list of any devices connected to your network, as well as recently connected devices. Parental Controls - Review your router's parental settings, such as time limits for devices or blocked sites. Change your wireless network's name. Editing the "SSID" field will change the name of the wireless network. Keep in mind that doing this will cause any connected devices to lose the connection, and you'll have to reconnect them to the newly-named network. You'll usually have to open your router's Settings page to do this. Secure your wireless network. Most modern routers support multiple kinds of wireless encryption. Use WPA2 to ensure that your network key will remain secure. If you change the password, use a combination of letters, numbers, and symbols. Avoid basing your password on personal information (e.g., your date of birth). Assign your router a new username and password. You will use this the next time you access the router. The default name and password for your router is very unsecure, as anyone that is connected to your network can easily enter the settings and compromise the security of your network.	Make sure your computer is connected to the Internet. Open Start . Click Settings . Click Network & Internet. Click View your network properties. Note the number next to the "Default gateway" heading. Make sure your computer is connected to the Internet. Open the Apple menu . Click System Preferences. Click Network. Click Advanced. Click the TCP/IP tab. Note the number next to the '"Router:" heading. Open a web browser. Enter your router's address. Enter your router's username and password if prompted. Review your router's settings. Change your wireless network's name. Secure your wireless network. Assign your router a new username and password.
https://www.wikihow.com/Talk-to-a-Crush-Who-Hates-You	How to Talk to a Crush Who Hates You	You may be feeling bad if you think your crush hates you, but if you carefully approach them and clear up any resentment, you'll improve your chances of having a good conversation. If you're not sure why they hate you, try asking a mutual friend. Sometimes, your crush doesn't hate you at all and you've been worried about nothing! If they do have a problem with you, apologize and make things right. For example, if you pulled a prank on them you could say, “I'm sorry we pulled that mean prank on you. I really regret doing that and I won't do it again.” Once you're on their good side, try talking to them more. Conversation starters like, “So, what are you up to this weekend?” or “Have you done anything fun lately?” are a good place to start.	Find out why they hate you through a friend. Seek out a mutual friend to better understand why your crush might hate you. Sometimes your crush doesn't hate you at all, and your perception is wrong. You could ask a friend by saying, “I'd really like to get to know John better, but I think he hates me. Do you know if there's any truth to that?” Address any misunderstandings. Your crush might hate you because of a misunderstanding. Clearing this up can bring you two closer together. Let's say you found out from your friend that your crush saw you in their open locker, and this is the reason they hate you. You could approach your crush and try to clear things up. For example, you could say, “Hey, I think you may dislike me because you believe I stole something out of your locker. I wanted to let you know that the reason I was in your locker at all was because the school administrator thought no one was using it. She opened it for me with a master key. It was purely an accident.” You could say, “I totally understand why you might think that was a strange thing to see. If I were you I'd probably think so too.” Apologize and make things right, if needed. If your crush has a real reason to have bad feelings towards you, apologize to them to try to make things right. Be genuine in your apology and try to say plainly that what you did was wrong. Don't try to justify your actions. For example, if your crush hates you because you made fun of them in public, you could say, “Hey, I've had some time to think about that, and I wanted to let you know how sorry I am. That was not right and I won't do it again". Another apology could go, “I'm sorry I participated in that mean prank we pulled on you. I really regret doing it. I promise I won't do it again". Choose a good time to talk. Find a good time to approach your crush when neither of you is busy. By catching them at an opportune moment, they're more likely to be receptive to conversation. Make sure you pick a time when they are not busy working on something or engaged in conversation with someone else. If you see your crush sitting on a bench, you could say, “Hey! Mind if I sit with you?” or “It's a beautiful day out, isn't it?” Smile. A smile makes you seem happy and open. To appeal most to your crush, flash them a smile to let them know you're feeling friendly. If you feel intimidated, imagine your crush as an old friend to feel more at ease. Try easy conversation starters. If you're not sure what to say when you approach your crush, try some easy phrases that can kick off any conversation. These don't have to be particularly loaded or customized to your crush, just break the ice. You could say, “So, what are you up to this weekend?” or “Have you done anything fun lately?” Other examples are “Do you know what the weather's supposed to be like this week?” or “What was the highlight of your day today?” Discuss mutual friends. If you and your crush have friends in common, they can be a great source of conversation. Try to incorporate your mutual friends in a group hangout or simply discuss how you got to know someone you are both close to. You may discover new things in common. You could say, “I met Damien in cross country because we both love running. I think you're friends with Damien too. How did you guys meet?” or “Sarah and I met at a poetry slam. I think I saw you hanging out. How do you guys know each other?” Draw on joint activities. It's possible you and your crush already have certain activities like sports or classes in common. To make for easy conversation, try to draw on shared experiences at school. For example, you could say, “I thought school assembly was really funny on Tuesday. What did you think?” or “Did you see the school soccer match Friday night? It was really close.” Ask about their interests. Ask your crush thoughtful questions about their hobbies to engage them in a positive way. It shows you've been paying attention to the things that are important to them and are interested in getting to know them better. You could say, “I noticed you play tennis. Did you watch Wimbledon this year?” or “I liked the cookies you brought in to homeroom. What's your favorite thing to bake?” Be kind, not argumentative. Do not engage your crush in a debate or argument, which can feel badgering, even if you like to do that with your friends. Try to be your kindest most appealing self. You can do this by paying an earnest compliment or exhibiting common kindness. For example, you could say, “Hey, I really like that sweater. It looks nice on you,” or “I bought an extra soda at the vending machine. Would you like to have it?”	Find out why they hate you through a friend. Address any misunderstandings. Apologize and make things right, if needed. Choose a good time to talk. Smile. Try easy conversation starters. Discuss mutual friends. Draw on joint activities. Ask about their interests. Be kind, not argumentative.
https://www.wikihow.com/Preserve-Lemons	How to Preserve Lemons	To preserve lemons, start by selecting ripe Meyer lemons, which are easier to preserve due to their thinner skin and will give you the best results. Then, sterilize a canning jar by boiling it in a pot of water on the stove for 5 minutes. Next, prepare the lemons by rinsing them in cold water, slicing off the stem, and making 2 cuts in the shape of an "X" where the stem was. Finally, fill a jar with layers of salt and lemons before sealing the jar and storing in the refrigerator for up to one year.	Choose ripe Meyer lemons. Meyer lemons are darker in color and sweeter than conventional lemons. Their peak season begins in November and ends in March, making winter a great time to make preserved lemons. Meyer lemons are traditionally used in place of conventional lemons in this recipe because their thinner skin makes them easier to preserve properly. Look for lemons with firm, bright flesh. Don't buy lemons that are green and underripe, and avoid lemons with brown spots indicating they're past their prime. If you can't find Meyer lemons, you can preserve conventional lemons instead. It's still best to use lemons when they're in season, during the winter months, since the lemons will taste fresher. Sterilize your canning jar. You can use a mason jar or another canning jar of any size. A quart-size jar fits enough lemons to last for a year or more, provided you don't need them for every recipe you make. It's important to make sure the jar is sterile before you put the lemons inside; otherwise, you might end up with rotten preserves. Here's how to sterilize a jar: Boil a large pot of water Lower the jar into the water and boil it for five minutes Boil the lid separately Lay the jar and lid out to dry on a clean towel Scrub the lemons' skins. Since you're preserving the entire lemon, peel and all, it's important to scrub the skin to make sure all traces of pesticides and other residue are washed away. Run cold water over the lemons and use a vegetable brush to scrub the skins well. Dry the lemons once you're finished. Slice off the stems. Use a sharp paring knife to slice the brown stems or stem tips from the ends of the lemons. The stems are inedible, so you want to remove them before you preserve the lemons. Slice the lemons lengthwise, leaving the bases attached. Stand a lemon on one end and hold it steady with one hand. With the other hand, use a paring knife to slice the lemon in half lengthwise. Slice through the lemon, but leave the base of the lemon intact; you want the pieces to stay together. Make a perpendicular lengthwise slice. Turn the lemon ninety degrees and slice again, so that you make an "x" shape across the top of the lemon and into the flesh. Again, don't slice all the way through the lemon; leave the base intact. Repeat with the remaining lemons. Place two tablespoons of salt in the bottom of the jar. This should be enough to completely cover the bottom. Kosher salt is the best kind to use, since it has a clean, sea-salty taste that will complement the lemons. Sprinkle salt inside a quartered lemon. Gently open the lemon and sprinkle it between the slices, still leaving the base intact. Use up to a tablespoon of salt to completely coat the inside of the lemon. Place the lemon into the jar cut-side down. Push it against the salt at the bottom of the jar. This will release the lemon juice and help the preservation process get started. Add two more tablespoons of salt to the jar. This should be enough to almost completely cover the top of the lemon. Simply sprinkle it over the lemon you just placed in the jar. Layer another lemon on top of the first. Put it into the jar cut-side down, and push it against the salty lemon below. Keep pushing until the juices are released. Keep layering salt and lemons until you get close to the top. Add another layer of salt, another lemon, and so on until you have only an inch of space left at the top of the jar. If you're using a quart-sized jar, there's probably enough space for three or four lemons, depending on their size. Top it off with more salt. This will ensure the top of the last lemon gets completely preserved. It's important to leave extra space, called "headspace," at the top of the jar. This keeps pressure from building up in the jar. Add extra juice if necessary. Squeezing the lemons into the jar should produce enough juice to rise about halfway up the jar. If the jar is low on lemon juice, cut into another lemon and squeeze the juice into the jar. You want it to rise at least halfway to the top of the jar. You can also top off the liquid with water that has been boiled and cooled. If you want sweet preserved lemons, add maple syrup to top it off. Lid the jar and store the lemons in the refrigerator. Lemons preserved with salt and their own juice will last up to a year when stored in the refrigerator. Just remember to keep the lid tightly fastened. Cut off a lemon quarter and rinse it well. If you want to add something tart to your meal, a simple preserved lemon quarter will do just the trick. Remove the lemon quarter from the jar and rinse it under cold running water to remove excess salt. If you wish, use a sharp knife to slice the lemon quarter into very thin slices. A little goes a long way, and one lemon quarter will provide enough lemon to divide among three or four serving plates. Puree an entire preserved lemon with the salt. Pureed preserved lemon is excellent when mixed into sauces. Remove a lemon and place it in your food processor. Puree the lemon until you have a fine, grainy paste. Store the paste in a small jar, and spoon a little into the sauce or dressing of your choice. Pureed preserved lemon is excellent in marinades. Or use it to add some punch to your favorite salad dressing. Use it to add flavor to chicken and fish dishes. Preserved lemons are typically paired with spicy meat and fish dishes. The extra tart flavor from the lemons makes a regular dish taste extraordinary. Try using preserved lemons in the following ways: Place two preserved lemon slices on top of a fish filet before grilling or baking. Make a rub for grilled chicken using preserved 1 tablespoon lemon puree mixed with 1 tablespoon olive oil. Add pepper to taste. Serve any grilled meat dish with a few thin slices of preserved lemon on the side.	Choose ripe Meyer lemons. Sterilize your canning jar. Scrub the lemons' skins. Slice off the stems. Slice the lemons lengthwise, leaving the bases attached. Make a perpendicular lengthwise slice. Place two tablespoons of salt in the bottom of the jar. Sprinkle salt inside a quartered lemon. Place the lemon into the jar cut-side down. Add two more tablespoons of salt to the jar. Layer another lemon on top of the first. Keep layering salt and lemons until you get close to the top. Add extra juice if necessary. Lid the jar and store the lemons in the refrigerator. Cut off a lemon quarter and rinse it well. Puree an entire preserved lemon with the salt. Use it to add flavor to chicken and fish dishes.
https://www.wikihow.com/French-Twist-Hair	How to French Twist Hair	To style your hair in a French twist, begin by combing your hair to one side at the back of your head. Then, use pins and hairspray to secure it to that side. Next, hold your hair in your hand and twist it in the opposite direction that you pinned it. As you twist, tuck the ends into the tunnel you're creating. Finally, insert pins beneath the twist to secure it to your scalp.	Sweep all your hair to one side. If you want the finished look to twist from left to right, brush it to the left side; if you want it to twist from right to left, brush it to the right. Hold your hair in place with your hand. Use grips or pins at the back of your hair to hold it in place. This will keep the hair pulled to one side. If your hair is long, thick, and heavy, using pins will help to keep it up all day long. Otherwise, you'll find that strands come loose throughout the day. You can create several criss crosses going vertically up the back of your head for maximum hold. Apply hairspray. Spray it lightly all over your hair at this stage if you'd like to keep all stray hairs in place. This can make the style look a little stiff, but it also helps to hold it all day long. Place your hand underneath the hair and brush it very gently. Make sure to brush it to the side so as to keep it in position and not dislodge the pins. Twist your hair up. Lightly grasp the hair and twist in the opposite direction that you swept it. If you swept it from left to right, twist it the other way. Tuck then ends into the tunnel created by the twist, or leave them loose for a more casual look. When you're done, the hair should form a downward-pointing cone; for now, the excess hair will hang off to one side. Insert pins to hold the hair in place. Feed the tip of the pin into the hair curling through the twist and pin it to the hair along your scalp. Make sure to place the pins so that they're hidden beneath the twist. Smooth it out. Use a bristle brush or a fine-toothed comb to neaten the style, then use hairspray to hold the twist together. Tuck the loose ends of the hair inside the twist. Use pins as needed to hold the ends in place, out of sight. Finished. Comb your hair back. Start with all of your hair combed back, without a part. Separate a 3-inch section of hair on top. Use a fine-toothed comb to separate a 3-inch section of hair from your forehead to the crown of your head, almost like a mohawk. Lift it above your head to keep it separated. Divide the separated section into 3 sections. One section should be in the front, one in the middle, and one at the crown of your head. Backcomb the sections. Take each of the 3 sections individually and backcomb them by running a fine-toothed comb from the tips to the roots. Tease each section gently, then drop them down toward your face to hold them out of the way for the time being. Gather and twist the back of your hair. Hold it as if you are making a ponytail, then twist it until you've reached 3/4 way to the roots. Twist the hair up against your head. Now it's starting to look like a French twist! Twist it against your head, then use pins to hold the twist in place. Secure the tips of the hair in a small knot. Make a little bun and pin it in place just below the first section of teased hair. Incorporate the front sections into the twist. Pull the front sections of hair that you teased back to the twist, and wrap the ends around the twist. Tuck them into the twist where it meets your head, and use pins to hold them in place. Pin down any remaining loose pieces. Your hair should now look like a classic French twist, with a slight lift on top where the hair is teased. Smooth your hair and neaten the look. Use a comb to lightly smooth the top and sides of your hair. Spray your hair with strong-hold hairspray to keep it in place. Finished. Gather all your hair into a low down ponytail. Tie it about an inch (2.5cm) from your neck. Twist the ponytail up. Rest it on our head. If you need to, you can bring the twist up and down as many times as you need to until all your hair is on your head. Hold it in place with your hand. Starting alongside your face, take the comb and comb your hair back. As you do so, gather up hair. When you reach the twist, lift the comb a little, bringing the hair from the side over the twist. Insert the comb into the twist, gently but firmly. If you have very long or thick hair, you may need to use two combs: one on top and one on the bottom. Done. The hair will now stay neatly in place.	Sweep all your hair to one side. Use grips or pins at the back of your hair to hold it in place. Apply hairspray. Place your hand underneath the hair and brush it very gently. Twist your hair up. Insert pins to hold the hair in place. Smooth it out. Tuck the loose ends of the hair inside the twist. Finished. Comb your hair back. Separate a 3-inch section of hair on top. Divide the separated section into 3 sections. Backcomb the sections. Gather and twist the back of your hair. Twist the hair up against your head. Secure the tips of the hair in a small knot. Incorporate the front sections into the twist. Pin down any remaining loose pieces. Smooth your hair and neaten the look. Finished. Gather all your hair into a low down ponytail. Twist the ponytail up. Starting alongside your face, take the comb and comb your hair back. When you reach the twist, lift the comb a little, bringing the hair from the side over the twist. Done.
https://www.wikihow.com/Make-a-Baby-Shower-Invitation-Template-Using-Microsoft-Word	How to Make a Baby Shower Invitation Template Using Microsoft Word	To make a baby shower invitation template using Microsoft Word, start by opening a new, blank document and deciding on an invitation size and shape. Next, click the Insert tab at the top of the screen to select a border from the drop-down menu. Then, choose a light background color by clicking the Format tab, selecting Shape Fill, and picking one of the color options. Finally, insert Text Boxes to create the title and other text content, add any images you'd like, and save your template.	Open a new blank document in Microsoft Word. Open Word and open a new document with a blank 8.5 x 11 letter-size sheet (which is standard). This will be the canvas you work on to create your own design. Determine your invitation size and shape. For the easiest design, you can fit two half-sheet sized invitations per sheet. To do this, orient your page landscape, or sideways. At the top of the screen click Page Layout, then Orientation, and then select Landscape. Create a border. Click the Insert tab at the top of the screen. Then select the Shapes drop-down menu. Pick a shape to create a border, such as a rectangle, a rounded rectangle, or an oval. Click and drag to create an area about half the size of the page. You'll want to only use half the page so that later you can copy and paste your design to the other side, so you can print two copies per sheet. Keep the background readable. It is probably best to keep your background white, for readability. If your box is filled with color, select Shape Fill from the Format tab, or click the picture of a box with no filling inside. To change the color of the border line, click Shape Outline. If you don't want a white background, choose another light color like yellow so the invitations are easy to read. Get creative with the effects. Have a little fun and make unique effects for our invitations. You can click Shape Effects to give the border shadow or a glow. You can also make a box that is filled with something then create a white box within it. To explore the options for filling the box, select Shape Fill and play around with adding a gradient or texture. Remember, you can always click the "Undo" button if you dislike something you create. Feel free to experiment a little until you get the effect you want. Add a title. To make a stylized title, click Insert then WordArt then type your title: “It's a Boy!” You can also insert a Text Box which will offer a cleaner text that you can still edit. Customize your WordArt or regular text by changing the font, font size, and font color under the Home tab. To create a text box, click the Insert tab on the top tool bar. Select "Text Box." Click "Draw Text Box" and use your cursor to create a text box in your desired shape and size in your document. Use a variety of stylized texts to include all the important information. If you want to include the baby's name, you might want to do it in a different color or font than the main title. If you find some of your objects are being moved around by the placement of other objects, such as text, select the object then open the Format tab. Then click Wrap Text then “In Front of Text.” Add an image. Open the Insert tab, then click Clip Art, which will have a lot of stock image and cartoon options. If you want to insert a photograph, select Picture, then find the photo's location on your computer. Arrange your image and title as you see fit by dragging and dropping them into position. Experiment until you find a design you like. Add your baby shower details. Include all the essentials such as guests of honor, date, time, location, RSVP info, and gift registry information. This time, use a text box rather than WordArt so that it doesn't steal attention from the title. Make sure to double check the information you include for accuracy. Group all of your images and text together. When you have all the necessary information and images that you want, make sure everything is centered according to the border. Then, go to Home and Select in the far right side of the screen. You can click “Select Objects” and draw a box around your invitation design, or you can choose “Select All” if the images and texts are the only thing on the page. Once everything is selected, right-click on one part of it and choose Group. This will make everything one object that can be moved without changing the position of the different parts. Copy and paste your design. With your group design selected, hit Ctrl + C on a PC or Command + C on a Mac to copy it. Then hit Ctrl + V or Command + V to paste it. Move the copied design to the other, empty side of the page. Save your template. You can save your document as a document, or you can also save it as a template for later use. To do this, click on File then Save As. On the Format or “Save as type” pop-up menu, select Word Template. In the Save As or “File name” box, type the name of your template: “Baby Shower Invitation.” Click Save. Print and cut your invitations. Print your invitations on cardstock, or thicker paper. Go for card stock paper between 80 and 110lb for the sturdiest invitations. Since you have two copies per sheet, you will need to cut your invitations in half. Use a paper cutter or bring them to a copy shop to do it for you. Open a template in Microsoft Word. To open an existing template, click File then New. Here you will find folders with existing Microsoft Office templates. Select Announcements and find one that is for baby showers or could easily be made into a baby shower invitation. If you don't find a satisfactory template already on your computer, you can download new ones online. Go to the Microsoft website to browse the templates they have to download and find one that you like and matches your vision for a baby shower invitation. Type your baby shower invitation wording. Simply click the existing text boxes to enter them, delete the existing text, and type your own. Be sure to include the guest of honor, date, time, location, RSVP info, and gift registry information. Change the font and color. Highlight the text you'd like to change. Then select the font, font size, and color you'd like. These options are under the Home tab at the top of the screen. If you like the font or color, you can keep it as is. However, if you had a specific color or font in mind, feel free to alter the font to your liking. Insert new pictures. If there are images you don't want, select them and press “Delete” or right-click and choose delete. To insert new images open the Insert tab, then click Clip Art which will have a lot of stock image and cartoon options. If you want to insert a photograph, select Picture then find the photo's location on your computer. Once your picture is added, you can choose to center it at the top of the invitation, or place it anywhere you wish. Change background colors or borders. To change the color of the background, or a border, select the object, then open the Format tab. Change the “Shape Fill” or “Shape Outline” as you see fit. Proofread and save your invitation. Make sure everything is correct. Then save the invitation by using the "Save as" option, so you will have it for future use, if needed. It's a good idea to set your invitation aside for an hour and then proofread. This will help you catch errors better. You can also have someone else proofread for you. Print the invitation on heavy cardstock. Cardstock paper between 80lb and 110lb works best as it will make sturdy invitations. If your template only takes up half the page, you will need to cut your invitations in half.	Open a new blank document in Microsoft Word. Determine your invitation size and shape. Create a border. Keep the background readable. Get creative with the effects. Add a title. Add an image. Add your baby shower details. Group all of your images and text together. Copy and paste your design. Save your template. Print and cut your invitations. Open a template in Microsoft Word. Type your baby shower invitation wording. Change the font and color. Insert new pictures. Change background colors or borders. Proofread and save your invitation. Print the invitation on heavy cardstock.
https://www.wikihow.com/Lie	How to Lie	To tell a lie, keep the lie simple and don't add unnecessary details so your story doesn't seem suspicious. For example, if you're lying about why you're late to work, you can just say "Traffic was backed up on the highway," and leave it at that. Also, try not to involve anyone else in your lie or you'll have to worry about keeping your stories straight. Remember to make eye contact when you're telling a lie and face your body toward the person so you seem more believable.	Keep your lie simple. Include details that make your lie seem legitimate, but not so many that it becomes complicated. An elaborate lie means more details that you have to keep track of and can often mean more explaining. A simple, straightforward lie is easier to maintain. For example, an elaborate lie might be, “I'm late because when I got onto I-70, it was so backed up that I had to reverse all the way down the entrance ramp and I ended up taking country roads instead.” A simple version of that lie would be, “Traffic was pretty backed up on I-70.” The simplicity of the lie can show that you don't have any other details to add to it. Avoid including other people in the lie. Using someone as a witness or alibi makes your lie more complicated than it needs to be. If the person you lie to checks your alibi, they may find out you lied. If you use someone else in your lie, be sure to tell them. Some people may not appreciate being part of your lie. If you are planning a lie ahead of time, at least talk to the person and see if they are willing to cover for you, as opposed to telling them after you already used them in a lie. Make your lie plausible. When you lie, only include information that is believable. Don't exaggerate to a point where the listener will start to question what you are saying. Make your lie as realistic as possible. Be critical of your own lie and see if it seems reasonable. Don't use only your own judgment but think about if the person you are lying to will find it reasonable. For example, telling your wife that a bird flew in the house and broke her lamp is not a plausible lie. Telling her you stumbled over the dog and knocked the lamp over is more plausible. Include something truthful in the lie. Completely false lies may be more easily detected, but if you sprinkle truth into the lie it is more believable. Find a way to show proof that part of your lie is true to strengthen the lie as a whole. It is easier to express real emotion when you tell the truth than it is when you lie. If you emphasize the true part you can mask your emotions. For example, you stayed out late with a group of friends that included your ex-girlfriend Holly. Tell your current girlfriend, “I was hanging out with Carl, Stacy, and Steve.” It's true that you were with those people, but you're lying about Holly being there, too. Lie before you have to. You can avoid lying under pressure by initiating the conversation about the subject you are lying about. Lie voluntarily before you are asked anything. The listener may not think you are lying since you volunteered the information. If the person you are lying to is already upset or suspicious, they are more likely to be critical of the lie you offer. If they have not thought of the situation yet, they may be more likely to accept what you say without further questions. If you go see your friend's band and they sound terrible, go up to them after the set and say, “You guys rocked!” before they have a chance to ask you about it. Write down the details of the lie. One of the hardest things about lying is keeping up with what you said. It's even harder if you have to repeat the lie to many people over the course of time. The best way to avoid this is to write down the lie. If you have time to plan the lie out, write it down first. If you lie spontaneously, write down who you lied to and what you said. If the lie is time sensitive and will go away, you may not have to keep track of the paper you wrote the lie on for very long. If the consequences of the lie are long term, you'll need to put the paper somewhere safe. Writing helps you make things clear and remember them. Even if you immediately throw the paper away, writing can help you establish the lie in your mind. Practice saying the lie out loud. If something is true, it is often easier to remember, but if you are lying you may forget exactly what you want to say. Repeating a lie over and over again will help you deliver it more effectively. When you are lying on the spot, you may not have the chance to practice your lie. You can repeat what you said later on so you remember exactly how you lied. If you have time to practice the lie ahead of time, you can recite it in different ways to find the best delivery of the lie. Record a video of yourself lying. For small lies, the video camera is not necessary, but if you are preparing a big lie, video can help. Watch yourself on video to decide if the lie sounded convincing. If not, figure out a way to adjust it. This is like saying the lie to yourself in a mirror, but saying it to a mirror is actually more distracting. Taking a video of yourself will help you see whether your delivery looked convincing or not. If your delivery is believable, watch the video a few times to memorize the wording and presentation of the lie. Keep your hands away from your face. Liars tend to fidget with their hands a lot. Keep your hands at your sides if you are standing or on your lap if you are sitting. Don't rub your chin or your nose. Don't run your hands through your hair. Remain still. Swaying back and forth, tapping your foot, or generally moving a lot are signs that you are lying. Don't shrug your shoulders a lot either. Keeping your whole body relaxed and unmoving adds poise to your appearance, and it will keep people from being suspicious. Keep your arms open and not folded. Folding the arms is considered closed off posture and when you lie it is a giveaway to people. Don't cross your arms. Keep them at your sides, or if you are sitting down, lay your hands on your lap. Control your blinking. Liars tend to blink nervously, and it's an easy sign for people to notice. Also be aware that keeping your eyes open for too long can become suspicious, so make a conscious effort to blink as you normally would. Use eye contact to your benefit. One of the surest signs that someone is lying is shifting their eyes away from the listener. You can control your eye contact to mask your lie. Make enough eye contact to make the person believe you. You have to find a balance between too little eye contact and too much. If you stare at the person without looking away you will seem as suspicious as if you never meet their eyes. Keep your body facing the person you’re lying to. Turning your body to the side or turning away is seen as a sign that you are trying to hide something. Make sure that your body stays angled toward them. Keep your eyes in their direction, as well, and don't stare off into the distance. Use physical touch to create intimacy. When you are lying, appropriately touch the person you are lying to. Place your hand on their shoulder, grab their hand, or gently touch their leg if you are sitting by them. By touching them you will soften them toward you and make them more trusting. You need to take account of whether or not you are in a close enough relationship with the person to initiate physical touch with them. In many situations, this won't be the case. Keep your voice normal. Another unconscious change that occurs when you lie is that the pitch of your voice gets higher. Actively moderate the pitch of your voice so that stays at the your usual level. Make sure your voice is appropriate to the situation. The fact that the voice pitch rises during a lie is somewhat common knowledge, so people may be listening for it if they suspect you of lying. You can even speak slightly lower than you normally would to balance out the tendency to go higher. Also pay attention to your tone and volume so that it is appropriate to the situation. Don't speak with a cheerful tone if you need to sound sorry or a serious tone if your lie should sound encouraging. Give straightforward replies. When you are asked questions, give a full answer but don't let yourself start to ramble. Don't pause a lot or add filler words that are unnecessary. Rambling or getting off topic is one sure sign that you're lying. It will take practice, but find the balance between an answer that is too short and one that is too long. Both can seem suspicious. Use casual language. A natural tendency during a lie is to become overly formal. People will notice the difference from your typical demeanor. Use contractions like “didn't” and “wasn't” as opposed to “did not” and “was not.” Don't be afraid of slang or colloquial terms because these will appear as normal for conversation. For example, say “I don't know,” as opposed to, “I am not entirely sure.” Stick to your story. After you tell the lie, you may be asked to tell the story again, or give a fuller explanation. Do not back down and take back the lie you told. Stick to it and repeat it as closely as possible to the way you told it the first time. Asking the same question multiple times is a tactic to get you to give up the lie. Add a small extra detail. When you are asked for more information, don't add too much to the lie so that it becomes complicated. Do your best to add one small piece of information that will enhance the lie but not make it too hard to maintain. Answer the question with a question. Sometimes you can disorient people and distract them by answering a question with another question. Say something like, "Why don't you believe me?" or "Did you hear a different story from someone else?". This puts the person questioning you in the hot seat to answer. Say you don't remember telling the lie if you happen to almost get caught. This will make the other person think that your lie was just their imagination. Beware though- as this doesn't usually work that well, and if it doesn't, you can get caught. Admit that you lied and apologize. At some point, you may be caught in a lie and it is obvious you can't get out of it. Someone may have found video that proves you lied, or documents of some kind. Rather than extend the lie and make things worse, admit what you did and face the consequences. You will usually gain some credibility back with the person by admitting it rather than lying again. Learn from your mistakes and try to avoid them the next time you need to lie about something. This may seem counterintuitive, but you will soon find that a huge amount of weight will be lifted from you, and you won't have to keep in your lie. Explain why you lied without making it an excuse. Once you admit the lie, you are likely to be questioned further. Do not try to justify why you lied, but explain what your thought process was. Tell the person why you felt you needed to lie and why the truth would not have worked for you. The person may not accept your explanation or may say it does not make sense or is not good enough. Do not argue, but affirm to them that you stand by your reasoning, even if it ended up being wrong. Tell the person how you will make up for it. Lying is likely to cause damage in one way or another, so once you are caught, you will have to fix things. Give the person some concrete steps you plan to take to remedy the situation. Be honest about what you are going to do and then follow through on doing it. The things you need to fix may not be problems as much as strained relationships. You may need to do some emotional work to show your remorse and make up for the lie.	Keep your lie simple. Avoid including other people in the lie. Make your lie plausible. Include something truthful in the lie. Lie before you have to. Write down the details of the lie. Practice saying the lie out loud. Record a video of yourself lying. Keep your hands away from your face. Remain still. Keep your arms open and not folded. Control your blinking. Use eye contact to your benefit. Keep your body facing the person you’re lying to. Use physical touch to create intimacy. Keep your voice normal. Give straightforward replies. Use casual language. Stick to your story. Add a small extra detail. Answer the question with a question. Say you don't remember telling the lie if you happen to almost get caught. Admit that you lied and apologize. Explain why you lied without making it an excuse. Tell the person how you will make up for it.
https://www.wikihow.com/Grow-Wheat-in-Your-Garden	How to Grow Wheat in Your Garden	If you want to grow wheat in your garden, turn up the soil in a sunny spot, then go over the ground with a rake to break up any clumps. To grow about 50 pounds of wheat, plant 90 square yards of wheat, scattering the seeds about 1 per square inch. Rake the ground again lightly to cover the seeds with soil, then gently water the ground. In dry weather, water the plants 1-2 times a week, then harvest the wheat when the heads turn brown and start to bend over.	Pick an area with full sun. Wheat does best with a lot of sunlight, so try to pick an area that doesn't get much or any shade during the day. Watch your garden off and on throughout the day to find the best area for full sun. If you don't have a full-sun location, just pick the sunniest spot you can. Carve out a large area of your garden for growing wheat. Wheat has a relatively low yield in relation to the space it takes up in your garden. You need about 90 square yards (75 m ) to produce about 50 pounds (23 kg) of wheat, the amount of wheat an average person consumes in a year. Put in other terms, you need an area that's at least 16.5 feet (5.0 m) by 16.5 feet (5.0 m) to produce enough wheat for 1 person for a year. However, you could always plant less than that and just replace some of the wheat you buy each year. Keep in mind that in colder areas, you'll likely have a lower yield, as little as 60 pounds (27 kg) per 1,100 square feet (100 m ). You shouldn't expect high yields with your first crop. Growing wheat, like growing any vegetable, involves a learning curve. Test the soil pH level. Purchase a pH testing kit from a local gardening store or online. Follow the instructions on the back of your kit to determine the pH level of your soil. You can also send samples to a lab to test your soil, either from your local agriculture extension office at a university or from another soil-testing lab. Wheat doesn't like low pH levels, so if yours are below 7, amend the soil. Add about 2.5 pounds (1.1 kg) of limestone per 100 square feet (9.3 m ) of soil for each half a level you need to increase the pH. Turn the soil to get it ready for wheat. Turning or digging the soil helps loosen it up, improving airflow and helping the plant grow. The simplest method to turn the soil is to take a spadeful from the ground, and flip it over in the same spot. Go across the whole bed this way. Only dig 2 to 3 inches (5.1 to 7.6 cm) down into the soil. You can also dig trenches, and flip the soil from one trench into the previous trench. If your plot is large, you can use a rototiller to turn your soil more easily. Till the soil with a fine rake. Wheat does best in soil without large clumps. Go over your garden patch with a fine rake or tiller to break up any clumps and ready the soil for planting. Walk over the soil to help even it out, and then till it once more. Choose winter wheat up to growing zone 3. You plant winter wheat in the fall, so it is a relatively sturdy plant. However, it won't survive very cold growing areas, such as any growing area at zone 3 or above. Some winter wheat varieties will survive down to −10 °F (−23 °C). Plant winter wheat seeds about 6 weeks before the first expected frost. While winter wheat does well in cooler climates, you do need to sow it when it's a bit warmer. Doing so will help the wheat germinate more readily. Try spring wheat if you live in a hardiness zone 3 or colder. Because winter wheat won't survive where it's very cold, opt for spring wheat in those areas. In the United States, only the very northern states in the Midwest and East Coast fall into zone 3, such as most of Montana, Wisconsin, North Dakota, and Minnesota and parts of Michigan, New York, Vermont, and Maine, so those are the areas you should plant spring wheat instead. Plant spring wheat after the last frost in your area. Check weather sites for when the first and last frosts typically happen in your area. Toss the seeds on the ground with your hand. You don't need to plant the seeds in evenly spaced holes with wheat. Instead, just scatter the seeds with your hand across the area you've prepared. Aim for about 1 seed per 1 square inch (6.5 cm ). You won't be able to get this exactly precise, and that's fine. If you're not confident you can spread the seed uniformly, try a broadcast seed spreader, which you can find in the lawn section at your local home improvement or gardening store. Adjust the hole size at the bottom for wheat, and then roll it over the garden area. It will disburse the seed evenly for you. Rake the ground lightly to cover up the seeds. If you don't cover the seeds with a little soil, birds will eat them. Just run a fine rake over the area to move the soil on top of the seeds. Water the ground to start the germination process. Use a hose with a gentle head to spray the ground with water until the area is fairly well saturated. The water will help the seeds begin the growth process. Repel slugs and snails when the plants are young. These bugs can ruin your crop when it's just coming up. Use slug repellents or spread diatomaceous earth on top of the soil to keep the slugs at bay. Diatomaceous earth is harmless to humans and animals. It basically drys out any crawling insect, keeping them away from your plants. You can find it online or in organic garden stores. Water the plants 1-2 times a week in very dry weather. Typically, you won't need to water wheat, as it is fairly hardy. If you've gone more than a week without rain, give the wheat a good soaking. Fortunately, because you plant wheat so close together, you don't need to worry about weeds, as they have no room to grow. Apply a fungicide if you see drooping leaves and rusty patches. If you see these signs, you may have a fungus such as rust or blotch. Apply a fungicide to help prevent the spread of the disease. Typically, you'll only apply these once when you see the disease popup, and spraying is a common method of application. However, it varies based on what kind of fungicide you choose, so always read the directions. Pick a fungicide meant to treat wheat, which may be listed under "cereal" or "grain." Typically, the active ingredients you'll need will be one of the following: propiconazole, azoxystrobin, trifloxystrobin, Pyraclostrobin, or Tebuconazole. Watch for the maturation of the grain. Once your wheat develops stalk heads, check the growth of the grains. When the head starts turning all brown or mostly brown, you're near the end of the maturity cycle. The head of the stalk will also start to bend over when it's ready to be harvested. Cut stalks when the grains reach the "hard dough" stage. Grain goes through 4 stages. It has a soft, milky stage (like corn on the cob), a soft dough stage, a hard dough stage, and a flint stage. In the hard dough stage, you should be able to dent the grain with a fingernail, but it shouldn't squish. Typically, the grains will reach this stage about 30 days after the heads flower. Harvest the stalks with a scythe or pruning shears. If you don't have a lot of wheat, simply cut off about 10 inches (25 cm) of stalk near the grain head. If you have a scythe or other large harvesting knife, grasp the stalks in the middle, then cut them at the bottom of the plant near the soil. Let the grain cure in bundles. Make piles of the stalks as you cut them. When you have a large pile that you can still wrap your arms around, tie up the stalks in a large bundle with string or even just a green stalk of wheat. Lean the bundles against each other to help them stand up, and let them sit in the sun for 3 or 4 days, until the grain hardens to the flint stage. Some rain won't hurt the grain. If you have a downpour or rain over a couple of days, cover the wheat with a tarp. You can harvest the grain in the flint stage instead of letting it dry after you cut the stalks. However, you'll get a better-tasting and better-grinding wheat if you let it dry to the flint stage after you cut it.	Pick an area with full sun. Carve out a large area of your garden for growing wheat. Test the soil pH level. Turn the soil to get it ready for wheat. Till the soil with a fine rake. Choose winter wheat up to growing zone 3. Try spring wheat if you live in a hardiness zone 3 or colder. Toss the seeds on the ground with your hand. Rake the ground lightly to cover up the seeds. Water the ground to start the germination process. Repel slugs and snails when the plants are young. Water the plants 1-2 times a week in very dry weather. Apply a fungicide if you see drooping leaves and rusty patches. Watch for the maturation of the grain. Cut stalks when the grains reach the "hard dough" stage. Harvest the stalks with a scythe or pruning shears. Let the grain cure in bundles.
https://www.wikihow.com/Take-Care-of-an-Aegean-Cat	How to Take Care of an Aegean Cat	To care for your Aegean cat, brush it with a wire slicker brush once per week to remove dead hair. For a healthy diet, feed it quality, high-protein food with meat in the top 2 or 3 ingredients to make sure it gets the protein it needs. Aegean cats love to be outside in the sun, so consider setting up an enclosed area outside for it to play in. They are also very athletic, so play with your cat every day to give it the exercise it needs. You should also give it cat trees or shelves where it can perch and jump on. These cats are very social, so spend plenty of time cuddling and talking with your cat.	Brush the cat's coat. An Aegean cat has a semi-long haired coat. This means that they will shed, especially during the spring and summer. To help with this, brush the cat once a week to remove dead hair. Make sure to use a wire slicker brush to brush your cat. If your cat doesn't like being brushed at first, try to work them up to it. Start by brushing them right before they eat, that way they associate brushing with something positive. Trim your cat's nails and check their ears. You should perform basic grooming tasks for your cat regularly. This includes trimming their nails and cleaning their ears. You may want to take your cat to the vet to get their nails trimmed if you cannot do it yourself. To clean their ears, use a liquid ear cleaner designed for cats and a cotton ball. Check their ears for signs of infection, such as discharge, redness, or a bad smell. Regularly cleaning the ears is controversial, as some vets feel it weakens the skin and can make infection more likely. Talk to your vet before cleaning your cat's ears. To trim the nails, get your cat comfortable and use the right tool. Make sure you clip only the nail and not the quick. Put the cat on your lap with your dominant arm gently around your cat's upper body to keep it in place. Pick up a paw with your other hand and gently press on the paw to get the claws to come out. Use your dominant hand to trim the nails. Clean your cat's teeth. You should also keep your cat's teeth clean. Try brushing your cat's teeth with a safe cat toothpaste and soft-bristled toothbrush. Let the cat taste the toothpaste by putting a little on your finger. Do this for a few days, and then when your cat gets used to that, start rubbing your finger along their gums. When they are used to that, put toothpaste on the toothbrush and carefully rub it along the cat's gums. Over the next few days, work the bristles on the toothbrush along the teeth in tiny circles. Keep adding teeth until the cat will let you clean the entire mouth. Never use human toothpaste on a cat. You should also take your cat to the vet for regular checkups, and make sure your vet gives your cat an oral exam and dental cleaning. Feed your cat quality food. Aegean cats are from the Greek isles, and they are natural fisherman, so much of their natural diet is fish. Make sure to feed them fish-flavored food often since they love it so much. Cats are supposed to eat a meat-based diet, and need certain amino acids from proteins in meat. Ask your vet to suggest a cat food for you. You may also want to read the label to check the ingredient list. Meat should be in the top two or three ingredients. Avoid foods with less than 40% protein. Try to buy a food that is grain free. You can look for cat food that is salmon, tuna, or other fish flavored. Take your cat for regular checkups. Aegean cats are generally healthy and don't have any known genetic diseases. However, you should still take them to get regular veterinary checkups. Your cat should go to the vet at least once each year. Get your cat vaccinated against common feline diseases to protect their health. They will need booster shots each year. You should also deworm your cat, use heartworm prevention, and treat your cat for fleas. Desex your cat. If your cat isn't spayed or neutered, consider getting it done. Cats can be neutered around five to six months, which is before a female cat can get pregnant. Spaying or neutering your cat can also reduce the occurrence of behaviors like spraying to mark territory or behaviors connected with being in heat. Being spayed can also reduce your female cat's risk of cancer. Set up an enclosed outdoor area. Aegean cats love to be outside and lie in the sun. In Greece, they often lay around the docks, interact with fisherman, and even fish for themselves. Because of their love of outdoors, you may consider setting up an enclosed area outside for your cat lay in the sun and even play in the water. This may be an enclosed deck or an enclosed area in your backyard. You can put cat trees or shelves in your outdoor space to give your cat somewhere to lay in the sun. If you have small natural trees you can enclose in the area, you can use those. Just make sure your cat has room to roam and lay in the sun. Make sure the enclosure doesn't have any holes that your cat can get out of. Exercise your cat daily. Aegean cats are active and athletic cats. This means they need exercise every day to keep from getting obese. Daily exercise also helps your cat stay mentally stimulated. The breed should average around nine to ten pounds. You can use laser pointers and feather wands to play with your cat. You can also try to play fetch by throwing soft balls for your Aegean to chase. Provide a scratching post for your cat. This gives them a way to play and exercise, and it helps keep their claws healthy. Provide high places to perch. Aegean cats love to be active, and they can be quite independent. Placing cat trees or tall cat shelves around your home will let them expend energy and give them a way to get away by themselves if they want to. If you build an outdoor area for your cat, you can put cat trees, shelves, tunnels, boxes, or anything else in your outdoor space. Small natural trees enclosed in the area can provide climbing places. Spend time with your Aegean cat. This breed is very social and friendly. They also love people. You should make point to spend time with your cat each day. Play with them, interact with them, and just enjoy being around them. Let them cuddle with you and curl in your lap when they want. Aegean cats are very vocal and like to talk to their owners. You can try talking to them and letting them vocalize back. Protect any fish in your home. Aegean cats love water and love to fish. If you have any open water areas in your home, make sure to secure them when you bring home your Aegean cat. Otherwise, they will get in the water and try to hunt for fish. If you have a fish tank or aquarium, make sure you secure it so the cat cannot get into it. If you have a koi or fish pond outdoors, make sure your cat cannot get to it.	Brush the cat's coat. Trim your cat's nails and check their ears. Clean your cat's teeth. Feed your cat quality food. Take your cat for regular checkups. Desex your cat. Set up an enclosed outdoor area. Exercise your cat daily. Provide high places to perch. Spend time with your Aegean cat. Protect any fish in your home.
https://www.wikihow.com/Use-Hair-Toner	How to Use Hair Toner	If you have blonde or bleached hair and you want it to be more golden or cooler, you can use a toner to change the color. If your hair is already blond, use an ammonia-based toner to adjust the color of your hair. If you have bleached your hair, use purple dye or purple shampoo as a toner to keep your hair from turning orange. Apply the toner to the sections of hair you want to alter, or apply it everywhere if you want to tone all of your hair.	Wait until your hair is at the right shade to tone. You can't tone whenever you want. To achieve the color tone you want, you need your hair to be at the right shade of yellow. If you want a light ashy or cool color, you have to make sure your hair is at a light yellow color before using the toner. If you use toner at the wrong shade of yellow, you won't get the result you want. Tone after bleaching. Toning works well with bleached hair. To achieve certain shades of blonde, you will have to bleach your hair first and then add toner. Toner also helps even out hair color after bleaching. Some toners can only be used days after you've bleached your hair. For some desired shades, you have to bleach your hair more than once over a period of time to achieve the color. This is especially true if you start with dark brown or black hair and you're wanting it to be blonde. Use toner after dyeing your hair. Toner can also be used when you dye your hair. Sometimes, the hair color you end up with is not exactly what you want. To help remove certain pigments, like if your hair has too much red or brassiness, you can use toner to even out your dye job or adjust the color. Toner can sometimes be used after a bad or undesirable dye job. It can't change your hair color, but it can even out your shade. Know that you may not be able to get your desired shade at first. Some shades may take time to achieve. This is because your hair may still have too much red or yellow pigment in it to achieve the cool or ashy shade you desire. Listen to your salon professional's advice to help you work towards eventually achieving the desired shade. For example, at first you may not be able to get a silver blonde. The silver blonde toner may make your hair green or another shade. Instead, you may have to bleach your hair a few more times before your hair is stripped of the red and yellow. Always keep a color wheel handy while bleaching, dyeing, and toning your hair so that you can pay attention to your hair's current color and undertones. This way, you can avoid ending up with a hair color that's different than what you were hoping for and expecting. Remove brassiness in blonde hair. Hair toner is a product that helps get rid of yellow or brassy blonde shades when you dye your hair. The toner will change the underlying color, but not change or dye the hair. Toner only works on hair that is blonde or bleached. Don't use toner on dark hair. It will have no effect. Change the shade of blonde hair. . Toner can be used to change the specific shade of your blonde hair. If you want your blonde locks to look ashier or dingier, a toner can help achieve the cooler color. You can go warm and honey colored or pink or rosy. Instead of a yellow, gold, or even white, toner can give your hair a cooler shade in colors like pink, purple, brown, or blue. Before you tone, research your options to find out what you would like to use. Use toner to even out highlights. Toner can help you achieve a more even and balanced look to your hair color. This can help if you dye your hair or have highlights. The toner can fill out problem sections or hide color problems. Toner can help blend your highlights into your hair more smoothly. It can help tone down your roots when you dye your hair. Enhance your hair’s color shade. You can use toner to enhance your current shade instead of changing it. This is true for blonde or some shades of brunette hair. If your hair is dull or not quite the right tone, you can use toner to enhance the current shade of your hair. Using toner for this will brighten or deepen the hair color. It will also make it look shiner and healthier. Toner can help your enhance and improve the look of dry or damaged hair. Use toner anywhere on your hair. Gather the section of hair you want to use the toner on and apply it. Toner does not have to be used evenly on all of the hair, but it can be. Don't worry if you make a mistake and get it on the darker strands of your hair; the toner will not affect them. For example, you may want to tone down highlights or your roots. Always apply toner to damp hair so it distributes evenly. Choose ammonia-based toner if you are already blonde. Ammonia-based toner is best if your hair is already a shade of blonde. This toner will change the pigment of your hair, so it is considered a demi-permanent dye. However, demi-permanent dyes don't penetrate the hair's cuticle, but only deposit color onto the hair strand. This means that the color will gradually fade. You can place ammonia-based toners to already bleached hair. You just want to make sure you wait a few days after bleaching to use ammonia. Using ammonia right after bleaching can damage your hair. Follow the mixing instructions of the toner you purchase. Generally, you mix one part toner with a specific ratio of 20 volume developer. Each toner brand will have different instructions, so don't try to change them or make up your own ratios. Use purple shampoo right after bleaching your hair. Applying purple shampoo as a toner can be done right after bleaching your hair. Purple shampoo is much more gentle, so it won't damage fragile hair that has just been bleached. Purple shampoo can get rid of yellow tones and brassiness, and give your blonde an ashier, cooler tone. You have to wash your hair with purple shampoo two or three times each week to get the best results. Leave the shampoo on your hair for five to ten minutes. Depending on your original shade of blonde, your hair may start to turn grey instead of blonde. If this occurs, use the purple shampoo every other or every two times you wash your hair. The strength of the purple toner will depend on the brand you purchase. Use purple dye after bleaching. Purple dye can also be used to tone your blonde hair. The purple dye helps get rid of the yellow and brassy tones of your hair. You can use purple dye right after bleaching. Only use a tiny amount of dye, such as a few drops. You will not use the entire bottle of dye. Instead, you will mix a small amount of purple dye with white conditioner. Then, leave this on your hair for around 15 to 30 minutes. It is important that you only use a small amount. If you use too much dye or keep it on for too long, the hair will be dyed purple. Go to a salon for your first toner application. If you have never applied toner before, you should go to a salon. They can properly bleach your hair and choose the right toner for you. If your hair is already blonde, they can help you achieve your desired result. Toning your hair at home if you have no experience with it can result in the wrong shade. Touch up your toner. Toner will start to fade from your hair if you wash it a lot. If you wash your hair often, you will need to touch it up more often. If you wait longer between washes, your toner will last longer. To touch up your toner, you will either have to go to the salon or use an at-home toner.	Wait until your hair is at the right shade to tone. Tone after bleaching. Use toner after dyeing your hair. Know that you may not be able to get your desired shade at first. Remove brassiness in blonde hair. Change the shade of blonde hair. Use toner to even out highlights. Enhance your hair’s color shade. Use toner anywhere on your hair. Choose ammonia-based toner if you are already blonde. Use purple shampoo right after bleaching your hair. Use purple dye after bleaching. Go to a salon for your first toner application. Touch up your toner.
https://www.wikihow.com/Arrange-Dorm-Room-Furniture	How to Arrange Dorm Room Furniture	To better organize your dorm, try dividing the room into multiple areas using screens, curtains, and large furniture items like dressers. If you have a roommate, you can move your furniture to different areas of the room to create a greater sense of personal space, or you can push your furniture together so that everything feels more open. So you can accommodate guests, try arranging your furniture items around the room to make an inviting common area.	Measure your room and furniture. If your dorm room is particularly cramped, use a tape measure to get the length, width, and height of both the room itself and each of your major furniture items. Doing this can help you better visualize the maximum amount of space you have. Place your and your roommate’s furniture in different areas. If you share your dorm with another person, the easiest way to divide the space is by placing your furniture items in different areas of the room. If your dorm has a decent amount of space, try dividing the room into equal halves. If your dorm is pretty small, you may need to create more unique patterns out of your furniture by doing things like: Moving your beds to different corners of the room and building your space out from there. Placing your beds in the center of the room and using the walls as a shared space. Segment the room using large furniture items. If you have large furniture items like dressers, wardrobes, and bookshelves, don't simply press them against the wall. Instead, arrange them throughout the room so that they create makeshift borders. You can use this method to simply divide an area, like placing a shelf between your bed and desk, or you can surround an area with furniture items to create a miniature room. Many dorm rooms come with large, school-provided furniture items that can be easily transformed into makeshift walls. Create temporary dividers using screens. Screens provide the same level of segmentation as large furniture items, but you can easily rearrange them to suit your current needs. You can purchase specially-designed paper and cardboard screens at most discount and furniture stores, or you can repurpose old boards and panels into free-standing dividers. Some screens look like free-standing panels while others copy the design of traditional Japanese Shoji screens. Make private areas within your room using curtains. Dorm rooms are rarely designed with privacy in mind, so you'll have to create your own. Curtains provide great coverage around places like your bed, and you can even use them to conceal personal items like your laundry hamper or hygiene products. In lieu of professional curtains, try purchasing cheap cloth at thrift shops or craft stores. You can hang your curtains by attaching them to a curtain rod or tying them to hooks on the wall using string. Get a loft bed to create an additional area. At some colleges, you can request a loft bed instead of a standard floor bed. This will open up a lot of space beneath the bed that you can use as a private study or something similar. If you have a roommate, try placing their bed underneath your loft to divide the room more efficiently. If your college doesn't offer loft beds, see if they have stackable or bunk beds instead. If you'd like to increase the privacy of this area, attach large curtains to the base of your bed so that they hang over the open space. For stackable or bunk beds, try hanging an additional curtain from the ceiling to create 2 private spaces. If you get a stackable or bunk bed, be aware that you'll have to make an agreement with your roommate about who sleeps on top and who sleeps on bottom. Ask friends and fellow students for more ideas. If you're running low on ideas, friends, family members, and other students can provide a ton of useful tips for organizing and decorating your dorm. In particular, try to ask people who lived in dorms that were similar in size or design to yours. Arrange your furniture around the room, to open up the center floor. While arranging your furniture in the middle of the room can help segment it, doing so can also make the area feel cramped and uninviting. As an alternative, try placing your furniture items flush against the wall so they open up the center of the room, making it appear larger and friendlier. Create a common area centered around a major object. Even in a small dorm, you can create an area similar to a living room by using a central item as a focus point. If you own a television or similar entertainment device, place it in a common area so guests have a spot to flock to. If you don't, try placing chairs, couches, and similar items around a large table that way guests will naturally sit there. In addition to creating a place where you can spend time with friends, a common area will keep people from entering your more private spaces. If your room is too small to have permanent seating, try investing in butterfly chairs or similar furniture items that you can fold and put away when necessary. Decorate your common area, to make it more inviting. To give your common area a bit more energy, try covering the floor with a colorful rug. Put fun pillows on each of the seats. To make the space more comfortable for your guests, try outfitting it with functional furniture items like coffee or end tables. Use your bed as a seating area in, particularly small dorms. If you don't have enough space in your room to create a distinct common area, try to make something similar around your bed. Though it will take away a bit of your privacy, using your bed as a couch will give your friends a place to sit when they're over without taking up extra space. Push furniture items together to make the room feel more welcoming. Furniture takes up a lot of space, but combining major items together can create a more open, inviting environment. If you have a roommate, try pushing your beds or desks together to make shared sleeping and study areas. If you live alone, push your dressers, shelves, and similar items together to create more room for guests. If you have a roommate, pushing your beds and desks together back to back will help you retain some privacy. Store objects underneath large furniture items. When space is limited, try to use your current furniture items as efficiently as possible. If you have a raised bed, see if you can store thin items underneath it. If you own tables, chairs, or other elevated items, try placing bulky objects below them. Small and thin areas are perfect for old assignments and documents you need to save. Large areas provide ample space for bulky class supplies and book bags. Use your furniture items in multiple ways. If you have some extra money, try purchasing a smart furniture item designed with 2 or more purposes in mind, such as a footrest that doubles as a storage container. If you don't have any cash lying around, see if you can use your current furniture items in multiple ways, such as converting a table into a desk when necessary. If you have limited space, try converting the tops of bulky furniture items into desks, TV stands, and the like. Hang objects on the wall to utilize vertical space. The smaller your dorm room is, the more important your wall space will become. If your college allows it, attach floating shelves or clothing hooks to the wall using nails or screws. If you don't have permission to alter the wall, hang up lightweight items like cork boards using adhesive strips or sticky tack. When used properly, walls provide ample storage space for class supplies, textbooks, and similar items. Purchase additional storage containers. Sometimes, the only way to gain more storage space is by purchasing specialty items designed for small rooms. Though heavy-duty storage units may be outside your budget, try looking at discount and school supply stores for affordable items like: Hanging shelves Customizable grid shelves Stackable or collapsible containers Door organizers Shoe or purse hangers Organize your dorm to keep the room clutter-free. Staying organized can be quite difficult when you're busy writing essays and completing projects. However, you should take time to purge your dorm of unwanted clutter and arrange the remaining items in easy-to-understand ways. Doing so will help you open up additional space and keep track of the things that really matter. If you have a messy roommate, try to isolate their clutter to a specific area of the room, that way you can keep your things neat and tidy.	Measure your room and furniture. Place your and your roommate’s furniture in different areas. Segment the room using large furniture items. Create temporary dividers using screens. Make private areas within your room using curtains. Get a loft bed to create an additional area. Ask friends and fellow students for more ideas. Arrange your furniture around the room, to open up the center floor. Create a common area centered around a major object. Decorate your common area, to make it more inviting. Use your bed as a seating area in, particularly small dorms. Push furniture items together to make the room feel more welcoming. Store objects underneath large furniture items. Use your furniture items in multiple ways. Hang objects on the wall to utilize vertical space. Purchase additional storage containers. Organize your dorm to keep the room clutter-free.
https://www.wikihow.com/Build-a-Compost-Bin	How to Build a Compost Bin	To build a general-purpose compost bin, gather enough untreated wood to build a 4-sided bin in your desired size. You may want to purchase extra wood to build a fifth side to act as a cover, which will help you maintain a consistent internal temperature. Always shred your organic materials before adding them to the bin, and use a few heavy bricks to anchor down the compost cover and discourage looting from animals!	Gather your materials. For this basic compost bin, you'll want untreated wood. Untreated wood will last for a plenty long time, and the treatment won't interfere with the composting process or overwhelm helpful fauna. Cedar is a great option. You'll need: Four pieces of 2 x 2s or 4 x9s lumber, cut to 3' lengths. These posts will serve as the four corners to your square compost bin. Opt for rough, unplaned wood. 8-16 pieces of 2 x 6 lumber, again cut to 3' length. These boards will make up the walls of your compost bin. Most compost bins have spaces between the exterior boards for aeration; how big you want your spaces to be will depend on whether you use 8, 12, or 16 pieces of lumber. 9 square foot cover, preferably made of solid wood. A solid cover will help maintain a more consistent internal temperature for your compost bin. Galvanized nails or coated deck screws. Nail one 2 x 6 board across the bottom of two 4 x 4s. Place the two 4 x 4s on the ground, 3' apart so that the 2 x 6 fits evenly on either end. Measure off one or two inches from the bottom of each 4 x 4 so that the 2 x 6 will be level. Place the 2 x 6 onto the 4 x 4s and drive two nails into each 4 x 4. Measure the amount of space you want between each 2 x 6 board. You'll want to continue building the wall by nailing 2 x 6s onto the stakes, but you'll also want a little bit of space between each 2 x 6. How much space you choose is up to you. At any rate, you'll want the space between each board to be the same, or else the bin will look less professional and put-together. An inch or two is pretty standard. Any gap larger than two inches won't effectively hold in the material and will leave it exposed to small animals, such as raccoons and opossums. Having chosen your spacing, nail another 2 x 6 onto the 4 x 4 above the previous one. Continue nailing 2 x 6s into place, factoring in the desired spacing, until you reach the top of the wall. At the end of this step, you'll have two vertical 4 x 4s cross-beamed with three or four perpendicular 2 x 6s. This is 1/4 of your square bin. Create another section of the wall in the exact same manner. Put down two 4 x 4s. Measure off one or two inches for your starting point. Then lay a 2 x 6 board perpendicularly over the 4 x 4s, hammering it into place with four nails. Continue placing, then hammering, 2 x 6s perpendicularly over the 4 x 4s — leaving the proper spacing — until you have wall no. 2 assembled. The two walls should be mirror images of one another. Prop up the two walls parallel to one another and connect the back end of the bin with a perpendicular 2 x 6. As with the previous 2 x 6s, measure off from the bottom, drive in four nails, and space each one evenly. Hammer down 2 x 6s across the back wall of the 4 x 4 until the bin has three walls entirely built. Make sure to offset the nails you drive into the 2 x 6s so that they don't collide with the nails driven into the 4 x 4s in the previous steps. Complete the bin by placing the final boards perpendicularly across the front side. Hammer three or four 2 x 6s across the front face of the bin, following the same routine and remembering to offset the nails. For greater ease of use, make the front side removable either by adding hinges to the front boards or grooves for them to slide in and out of. This will make the easier to stir, turn, or remove the compost when needed. Cover with a 9 square foot cover. You can use a tarp or wood for the compost bin, although wood is decidedly better at retaining heat over the long run. If you desire, consider making two small wooden handles and attaching them to either side of your cover for easier placement. Consider making one or two more identical bins so that you can have a turning unit. One bin contains active compost material; another bin contains processed (or processing) compost materials; the final bin contains soil you'll use to cover the active compost bin. Cut out a large rectangle of chicken wire. This will form the body of your compost bin, which will be a cylinder shape. This bin will be able to compost things like yard waste, sawdust, and leaves. It can only be used outdoors over soil and will compost very slowly. The height of the rectangle will be the height of your bin. The length of the rectangle will be the diameter of your bin. If you're not sure where to begin, hold the uncut chicken wire in front of you to get a sense of how tall and wide you'd like it to be. Since you'll be filling this bin with yard waste, err on the large side. Make four stakes out of scrap wood. These will be staked into the ground to maintain the shape of your wire bin, so be sure that they are longer than the height of your chicken wire. Flatten your rectangle of chicken wire onto the ground. Stretching it out will make it easier to work with. Using a staple gun, attach a stake along one of the short edges of your chicken wire. This works best of you place the stake beneath the wire. The top of the stake should stick out slightly above the top of the wire. Roll the other side of the chicken wire up and over so that the unstacked end overlaps the staked end. Your chicken wire should now be in the shape of a cylinder. Staple the edge of your chicken wire along the stake. It may be necessary to crawl inside the wire to reach the stake better. Stake your unfinished bin into the ground. Make sure you choose a spot that won't get in your way later. Drive your other three stakes into the ground around the bin. Be sure to stake them close enough to the wire that they don't pull it out of shape. When you are done, the four stakes should be in the shape of a square. Staple the remaining stakes to the chicken wire. Once the bin is fully secured, you can start filling it with yard waste. Put anything into your compost bin except the following materials. All organic matter will eventually decompose if you give it enough time. Grass, garden clippings, leftover fruits and vegetables, and certain animal manure are all fair game for your compost bin. Less advised is throwing meat, bones, and dairy (cheese, etc.) into the compost heap. Animal manure like cow and chicken manure is fine, but try to avoid cat or dog manure. Know your greens and browns. Green compostable materials, which contain essential sources of nitrogen, include grasses, garden clippings, and green leaves. They are mostly moist. Brown compostable materials, which contain carbon-rich materials, include drier materials such as hay, twigs, and shredded cardboard. A mix of two parts green to one part brown is the ideal compost ratio. You don't have to be exact with your ratios. As long as you don't have an abundance of greens or an abundance of browns, your compost should turn out nutrient-rich and successful. Shred your materials up for expedited composting. If you want to speed up the pace of your compost cycle, make sure to shred your materials before adding them to the bin. Grass clippings, of course, come pre-shredded, but you may want to put your twigs, hay, and other dry matter through the shredder in order to enlarge its surface area. The larger the surface area, the more the small animals and bacteria can process. Pay attention to heat and moisture in your compost pile. In order to get the composting kickstarted, your pile needs to be hot and wet. The two biggest problems a compost system encounters are lack of heat and lack of moisture. These affect the composting process in different ways. Try to keep the internal heat of your compost bin at 110 °F (43 °C) or higher. Between 110 °F (43 °C) and 140 °F (60 °C) is the ideal temperature for your pile. If your pile dips below 110 °F (43 °C), consider adding more green nitrogen-rich material or more water. Try to keep the compost pile damp throughout — never soaked and never dry. A moist pile will heat up more efficiently, allowing for better composing in the end. Stir your compost with a strong pole or tool, making sure to cover your food scraps with dirt. A pitchfork is recommended and will work best. Mixing the compost will help breakdown the scraps faster. Mixing sinks the superficial compost to the bottom and brings the bottom-dwelling compost up top. Give your compost a stir every other day, especially if you notice it not getting hot enough. Keep the compost cover anchored down with a heavy object in order to discourage looting from animals. A couple heavy bricks, placed near the center of your compost cover, will effectively keep animals like raccoons and opossums from throwing off the cover and looting your compost for easy pickings.	Gather your materials. Nail one 2 x 6 board across the bottom of two 4 x 4s. Measure the amount of space you want between each 2 x 6 board. Having chosen your spacing, nail another 2 x 6 onto the 4 x 4 above the previous one. Create another section of the wall in the exact same manner. Prop up the two walls parallel to one another and connect the back end of the bin with a perpendicular 2 x 6. Complete the bin by placing the final boards perpendicularly across the front side. Cover with a 9 square foot cover. Consider making one or two more identical bins so that you can have a turning unit. Cut out a large rectangle of chicken wire. Make four stakes out of scrap wood. Flatten your rectangle of chicken wire onto the ground. Using a staple gun, attach a stake along one of the short edges of your chicken wire. Roll the other side of the chicken wire up and over so that the unstacked end overlaps the staked end. Staple the edge of your chicken wire along the stake. Stake your unfinished bin into the ground. Drive your other three stakes into the ground around the bin. Staple the remaining stakes to the chicken wire. Put anything into your compost bin except the following materials. Know your greens and browns. Shred your materials up for expedited composting. Pay attention to heat and moisture in your compost pile. Stir your compost with a strong pole or tool, making sure to cover your food scraps with dirt. Keep the compost cover anchored down with a heavy object in order to discourage looting from animals.
https://www.wikihow.com/Deal-With-Blackmail	How to Deal With Blackmail	If you're being blackmailed, start by considering how damaging the information is and whether the blackmailer poses a real threat to you. Think about whether your job is in jeopardy or someone else may be in danger, or if the worst-case outcome is something you can live with. If you're being blackmailed over something less serious or less potentially damaging, you can reveal the information yourself to try and take away your blackmailer's leverage. However, you should contact local law enforcement for more serious or more dangerous blackmail.	Assess the grounds. Opportunists may attempt to create a blackmail situation from a thin premise. This might include overhearing a sensitive conversation and attempting to exploit it or possessing photos of a sensitive nature and looking to expose them if demands are not met. Assessing the situation requires being honest and introspective. Ask yourself about how damaging the information is, and whether the blackmailer poses a real threat to you. Some things to consider are: Is your employment at risk? Would release of information endanger your ability to maintain reasonable employment? Are you endangering someone else? Even if you are unharmed, would someone else suffer physical or emotional damage as a result of the blackmail? What is the worst thing that could happen? Real blackmail poses more than an inconvenience. It can create irreparable harm, either physically or emotionally. Based on who is involved in the blackmail scheme, assess what is the worst-case outcome. Ask yourself whether that outcome is severe enough not to ignore. React to a blackmailer you know. It is unfortunately too common that blackmail comes from people we know and once trusted-- friends, fellow students, ex-partners, even family. When we are close to the blackmailer, it can make it difficult to approach law enforcement for relief. When it is someone we know, it is frequently a form of "emotional blackmail," extorting closeness or prolonging a relationship to prevent information from being exposed. This is still blackmail and you are entitled to protection under the law. If the threats being made could impact your physical safety, you must inform law enforcement at once. Even if no immediate action is taken, having the threats on record can help your case if legal action is ever needed. If the person blackmailing you is threatening to reveal your sexuality or gender identity and you need to talk to someone specifically about your feelings about those aspects of your identity and any stress they might be causing you, you can contact the LGBT National Help Center. Please be aware, however, that they cannot assist directly with the blackmail itself. They are volunteer support counselors, not legal experts, and are not a substitute for the authorities. Discuss with a friend you trust. When faced with a problem, our own anxieties can cause us to exaggerate the situation. At times like this, it is a good idea to get the advice of a trustworthy and honest person. A trustworthy person could be a religious leader, a friend, or a therapist. Getting an outside opinion can bring perspective to the situation. Even if they are unable to help you find a solution, there is an emotional benefit to knowing you are not facing this situation alone. Take away leverage. If you recognize that the information does not pose a significant threat, reveal the information yourself before your blackmailer has the opportunity. This removes any leverage the blackmailer possesses. It demonstrates your strength through honesty and taking personal responsibility. It will invoke sympathy and support in your friends and family. Coming clean lets you control the narrative surrounding the information, exposing the blackmailer for their negative intentions. Keep all evidence of blackmail. Maintain legible photos or transcripts of all contact between yourself and your blackmailer. Save voice mails and record phone conversations. This is all information that an attorney or law enforcement will need to determine if your case can be prosecuted. Reach out to law enforcement. If after assessment, the information poses too great a threat to be revealed, contact law enforcement. Law enforcement is trained to know how to create a case against your blackmailer. Law enforcement can ensure that you are protected from any threat of physical harm. Although it may be painful, law enforcement may ask you to prolong the negotiation with your blackmailer. This is because, in many jurisdictions, blackmail requires written or recorded evidence of threat, along with request for payment. Be sure to do what the police tell you to do, even if it seems difficult or hurtful at the time. Hire an attorney if needed. Law enforcement will be able to tell you whether a lawyer can protect your interests. Lawyers have a thorough understanding of the legal system and may be able to suggest solutions that others would not be aware of. With reasonable grounds, an attorney can successful prosecute blackmail, ensuring jail time for the perpetrator. Never take matters into your own hands. Do not behave rashly or seek revenge. The crime of blackmail is serious and carries heavy penalties on its own. By injuring, persecuting, or otherwise attempting to harm the blackmailer, you implicate yourself in criminal activity and diminish the likelihood of receiving justice. Store securely. Physical files containing sensitive information can be held within a safe deposit box at a bank, within a personal safe, or in a lockable filing cabinet. Keep only what is needed. Some documents need to be kept long term; others can be destroyed within a set time frame. Never throw away tax-records. These should be filed and stored in the event of an audit. Often electronic and online tax services like Quickbooks or TaxACT will maintain your tax records for a yearly fee. Keep all records pertaining to home ownership. In the event of a divorce, property dispute, or bankruptcy, maintain all records pertaining to mortgages and home ownership. Maintain records of retirement income. This is to prevent over payment to the IRS and keeps track of all contributions. Maintain charity giving records and investment statements for 3 years. Destroy ATM receipts, banking statements, deposit slips, and credit card receipts. After you've checked each receipt against your electronic banking register and credit card statement, destroy these records. Get a shredder. A shredder is the safest way to get rid of sensitive documents, unnecessary receipts, duplicate records, expired credit cards. There are several types available; however, cross-cut shredders provide the greatest amount of security. Protect passwords. This means never sharing them in emails or chats. It is also advisable to use a password manager like Last Pass or Keepass, which encrypts stored passwords until you need them. Do not save passwords within a browser. Some browsers give you the option of saving your passwords when you visit certain websites. If you are not the only person using your computer, this means any other user can see your banking info, emails, or other personal data. Protect sensitive files. Password protect files that you do not wish for others to see and/or consider saving sensitive files to a passport drive that can be stored within a personal safe or safety deposit box. Use an anti-virus program. The new generation of virus doesn't just damage your computer. Trojans can take information from your hard-drive, even controlling your computer's camera and taking pictures while you don't notice. Ransomware can encrypt all information on a hard drive, refusing to return it until a fee is paid. Be wary of unsecured wi-fi networks. Although it can be tempting to use an unsecured connection when we don't want to pay for wi-fi, viewing any sensitive or private information on an unsecured network means that it can be viewed by others as well. Avoid and report “phishing. ” Phishing is when you receive an email from someone posing as a legitimate person, website or service provider that you trust, asking you for sensitive financial or personal account information. Legitimate service providers will never ask you for this kind of information through email, as it would expose you to security risk. If you receive an email of this nature, most email platforms have a “Report” function to inform the provider of this threat so it can be neutralized. Dispose of e-waste properly. Before recycling old hard-drives—even non-functional ones—ensure any personal information is removed by doing a final “wipe.” This ensures that anyone who may attempt to mine it for information will not be able to do so.	Assess the grounds. React to a blackmailer you know. Discuss with a friend you trust. Take away leverage. Keep all evidence of blackmail. Reach out to law enforcement. Hire an attorney if needed. Never take matters into your own hands. Store securely. Keep only what is needed. Get a shredder. Protect passwords. Do not save passwords within a browser. Protect sensitive files. Use an anti-virus program. Be wary of unsecured wi-fi networks. Avoid and report “phishing.
https://www.wikihow.com/Help-Your-Fat-Rat-Lose-Weight	How to Help Your Fat Rat Lose Weight	You can help your rat lose weight by feeding it no more than 3 tablespoons a day. Make sure that its food is made specifically for rats and not a generic “rodent formula” often found at pet stores, since those won't provide your rat with enough protein. In addition to smaller meals, limit your rat's treats to just 1 tablespoon of chopped fruits or vegetables. You should also give your rat an exercise wheel or some tunnels to get it more active. You can even place a small branch from a fruit tree inside its cage to get it climbing and chewing.	Use a smaller feeding dish. A small ceramic (not plastic) food dish that's only large enough to hold one feeding block will suffice. The larger the bowl, the more your rat will eat. Small bowls serve as natural portion control. Make sure your feeding bowl is sturdy so that it doesn't tip over as your rat eats. Your rat may chew a plastic bowl. Provide fortified food. There are good quality commercial rat foods available through pet stores and veterinary offices. These foods can be found in either “block” or “seed” type forms, and a mixture of both is recommended. If you're trying to help your rat lose weight, feed it no more than 3 tablespoons per day. Rat blocks contain a complete supply of vitamins and minerals. Avoid the generic “rodent formula” foods available at pet stores, as these often don't provide an adequate amount of protein for your rat. Limit your rat’s treats. One tablespoon of chopped fruit or vegetable is the best treat for your rat. Including apples, strawberries, bananas, and squash as treats rather than regular part of your rat's diet will help support its weight loss. Feed treats in a separate dish from your rats regular food and make sure to clean the treat bowl daily. Frozen peas in a dish of water is a wonderful summertime treat that your rat can enjoy year-round. Avoid sticky foods like peanut butter as they can create a choking hazard. Feed your rat a hard treat, like a dog biscuit, once per week to keep its teeth sharp. Feed your rat at night. Rats are nocturnal creatures by nature, which means they'll tend to be most active during the nighttime hours. It's good to feed them early in the evening, when they're most likely to be alert and awake. If you notice small stashes of food around its cage, it's likely you're overfeeding it and should cut back on the amount of food you're providing. Don't skip your rat's meals, or your rat may become hungry, anxious and unhappy. Wash your rat’s food bowl daily. Make sure that it doesn't get caked with old food, which can lead to diseases. Scrub old food off with a wire brush or sponge, and use plenty of soap and water. Allow the food bowl to air dry. It's a good idea to wash out the food bowl at the same time as you clean out the rest of your rat's cage. Place your rat's food bowl at an opposite end of the cage from the rat's bathroom area. Check for specific conditions. If your rat looks like it's gained weight, it's possible that it's pregnant, particularly if you have more than one rat. The most common reason for bloated-looking abdomen in rats is pregnancy. For any medical conditions in rats, you'll want to consult with your veterinarian. Other possible conditions that may result in increased size include: A tumor in the abdomen. Not only can the tumor cause a bulge in the abdomen, but it can also cause fluid to accumulate in the abdomen. Liver and kidney disease, which can cause fluid build up in the abdomen. Megacolon is a condition of the nervous system, where the nerves to the large intestine don't effectively allow for the colon to push out feces. As a result, the colon becomes backed up. Both the colon and the stools become larger than usual. Urinary blockage also can result in a rat's appearing swollen and overweight. If the bladder is blocked, then the urine can become backed up, feeling like a balloon in the center lower abdomen. Steer clear of hazardous foods. While rats may enjoy a wide and varied diet similar to your own, there are certain foods that are hazardous to your rat. Dried corn, for example, has high levels of fungal contaminants which have been linked to liver cancer in rats. You'll also want to limit the amount of nitrates in your rat's diet. Nitrates are found in beets, celery, eggplant, lettuce, cucumber, radishes, spinach, collards and turnip greens. Never give your rat any food that's moldy or spoiled. Provide plenty of exercise for your rat. Rats are intelligent animals who need a great deal of mental stimulation and activity. If you're trying to help your rat lose weight, making sure it has plenty of activities will help it stay healthy and happy. Provide tunnels, igloos, ropes, ladders, blocks, and child or baby safe toys for your rat to play with. Wooden gnawing blocks make great chew toys. You can also offer rawhide chew sticks or hard dog biscuits. Old soup bones or chicken bones are fine for a rat to chew on. Try an exercise wheel. Your rat might enjoy running on an exercise wheel, which is the rodent-version of a treadmill. Make sure the wheel you find is large enough for your rat, and solid (or with very small mesh) to protect the rats' feet and to avoid a rat tail being caught and damaged. Never get a metal wheel with rungs or a crossbar which could get your rat's tail tangled in it. Not all rats will enjoy running on an exercise wheel, and some may use it only for napping. However, for those rats who do enjoy it, an exercise wheel can be a great way to run off excess energy. Play every day with your rat. The best thing you can do for your rat is to make sure it has plenty of social interaction with you and your family. Rats are very social, and will get bored and unhappy if left too often alone. Take your rat out of his cage for at least an hour every day, snuggling and petting him. It's a good idea to keep him within one room at a time, with the door closed, so that he can safely explore the whole room. Make your own toys. Your rat will be happy to play with any number of homemade toys. Give him paper towel tubes or PVC pipes to run through. He'll likely enjoy toys designed for birds, such as ladders, swings or anything he can gnaw on. Find a branch from a fruit tree, and place it inside his cage. This will give him something he can climb on and something he can chew on. Keeping plenty of toys and activities around for your rat will keep him engaged and interested, and ultimately more healthy and happy.	Use a smaller feeding dish. Provide fortified food. Limit your rat’s treats. Feed your rat at night. Wash your rat’s food bowl daily. Check for specific conditions. Steer clear of hazardous foods. Provide plenty of exercise for your rat. Try an exercise wheel. Play every day with your rat. Make your own toys.
https://www.wikihow.com/Paint-a-Watercolor-Galaxy	How to Paint a Watercolor Galaxy	With a variety of colors and a couple of different brushes, you can paint your own watercolor galaxy. First, tape the edges of your paper to a surface to prevent it from warping or wrinkling from the paint. Dip a large brush in water and wet the whole page to soak up the paint and help the colors blend together. Then, cover the page with background colors, like various shades of pink, purple, and blue. Try to achieve a good mix of dark and light colors for a realistic galaxy. Once you're happy with your background, use a small paintbrush or toothbrush to flick white paint onto the paper for stars. Drag your finger across the bristles of your toothbrush or tap a paintbrush on your finger just above the painting to get the right effect.	Tape the edges of your watercolor paper to a flat surface. Taping the edges of your paper will prevent the paper from warping or wrinkling, providing a smooth flat painting. Wet the entire page with a light wash of clean water. This will prepare the paper to soak up the paint and allow the colors to blend together. Apply your desired paint colors to the page. For this example, you will be using shades of pinks, purples, and blues to obtain the "traditional" galaxy look. You can make any color combinations you'd like, though. Add both light and dark splotches of paint across the paper. Be sure to fill the entire page with color, this is only the first layer so don't be afraid to go a little crazy. Let this layer dry fully. Begin adding more splotches of paint across the page creating more depth with each paint stroke. There is no correct drying time, use the back of your hand to lightly touch the painting to see if it is dry. If you are unsure if you are doing it the "correct" way, you can always reference back to a photo. There is no real correct way of creating a watercolor galaxy; it is all about having fun. Continue adding colors until you have painted your desired galaxy look. If you think your painting is too light, add accent points of deep dark colors like a violet or indigo. If you think your painting is too dark, simply take a clean wet paintbrush and go over the darker colors and use a swiping motion to lift away the colors. Let your painting dry fully before continuing. Grab your white acrylic paint, your toothbrush or stiff paintbrush, and your plastic cup. Your painting must be completely dry before adding the stars; if not, the acrylic paint will bleed into the watercolor paint creating unappealing streaks. Mix a small amount of white acrylic paint with an even smaller amount of water. You want the consistency to be liquified but not too watery. If you think your paint is too liquidy, you can add more acrylic paint until the consistency is correct. Take your toothbrush or stiff paint brush and lightly dab it into the acrylic paint and water mixture, do not submerge the entire brush. If using a toothbrush, drag your thumb across the bristles of the toothbrush above your painting, flicking the paint onto the paper. If you are using a paintbrush, tap the paintbrush on your index finger above your painting to splatter the paint. Let the painting dry completely until adding more if necessary. Add extra detail as desired. Take your white gel pen and add accent stars throughout your painting to add to the ambiance. Let the painting dry again before continuing. Peel off the blue painters tape carefully and slowly. Enjoy your work of art. You are free to enjoy or display your painting any way you'd like!	Tape the edges of your watercolor paper to a flat surface. Wet the entire page with a light wash of clean water. Apply your desired paint colors to the page. Add both light and dark splotches of paint across the paper. Begin adding more splotches of paint across the page creating more depth with each paint stroke. Continue adding colors until you have painted your desired galaxy look. Grab your white acrylic paint, your toothbrush or stiff paintbrush, and your plastic cup. Mix a small amount of white acrylic paint with an even smaller amount of water. Take your toothbrush or stiff paint brush and lightly dab it into the acrylic paint and water mixture, do not submerge the entire brush. Let the painting dry completely until adding more if necessary. Add extra detail as desired. Peel off the blue painters tape carefully and slowly. Enjoy your work of art.
https://www.wikihow.com/Hem-a-Skirt	How to Hem a Skirt	To hem a skirt, start by trimming the excess fabric from the bottom, leaving it 2 inches longer than you want it to allow for the seam. Next, fold the bottom 1/2 inch of the fabric up, and secure it with pins before ironing it into place. Then, fold the fabric up another 1 1/2 inches, and pin and iron it again. Once the second seam is pressed, sew along it as close to the edge as you can, using a sewing machine or hand sewing it with a blind stitch. When you've sewn all the way around the hem, knot the thread and press the seam with an iron one more time.	Decide how long you want the skirt to be, and add 2 inches (5.08 centimeters) to it. You will need this extra length for the hem. If your skirt has a lining, and you need to hem it as well, plan on having it 1 inch (2.54 centimeters) shorter than the finished skirt. Draw a line across the skirt where you need to cut it using dressmaker's chalk. Consider using a hem gauge to measure upward from the hem while you draw the line. This will ensure that you will be cutting an equal amount off all around the skirt. If you don't have a hem gauge, you can use a ruler or measuring tape instead. Cut the excess fabric off using fabric scissors, using the line you drew as a guide. If your skirt has a lining, cut the lining 1 inch (2.54 centimeters) shorter. Fold the hem down by ½ inch (1.27 centimeters), secure it with sewing pins, then press it with an iron. Be sure that you are folding towards the wrong size of the fabric (inside the skirt). If you have a serger, or if your serving machine has an overlock stitch, you can skip the folding and use that instead. When you are done, remove the sewing pins. Fold the hem down by another 1½ inches (3.81 centimeters), secure it with sewing pins, then press it flat with an iron again. If you are sewing a skirt lining, fold it down by ½ inch (1.27 centimeters) instead. Keep the pins in place. Consider sewing the hem down using a sewing machine. Try to get as close to the folded edge as you can. About 1/16 to 1/8 of an inch (0.16 to 0.32 centimeters) will be enough. Use a thread color that closely matches your fabric. This is ideal for those who are working with skirt linings and thinner materials. Consider blind stitching the hem. Thread a needle, and tie a knot at the end of the thread. Use the needle to pull the thread through the hem. Catch 1 to 2 threads from the skirt material, then bring the needle back into the hem. Pull the needle ¼ inch (0.63 centimeters) through the hem, then use it to catch 1 to 2 threads from the skirt material again. Keep blind stitching until the hem is all sewn up. Knot the end of the thread, and snip the rest off. Use a thread color that closely matches your fabric. This is great for those working with a heavier or thicker material. Press the hem down with an iron one final time. After this, your skirt is now ready to wear. Determine how long you want your skirt to be, then add 5/8 inch (1.59 centimeters) to it. You will need this extra fabric to make the hem. If you are going to be hemming a skirt lining, plan on making it 1 inch (2.54 centimeters) shorter than the finished skirt. Draw a line around the skirt where you need to cut it, then cut along that line. Consider using a hem gauge to measure up from the bottom of the skirt to the cutting point. This will help ensure that you are cutting an even amount off all along the hem. If you don't have a hem gauge, you can use a measuring tape or ruler instead. If you are cutting a skirt lining, cut it 1 inch (2.54 centimeters) shorter than the skirt itself. Using a sewing machine, straight stitch a line ¼ inch (0.63 centimeters) away from the cut edge. Try to use a higher thread tension for this. This will help make the hem easier to fold later on. It will also create a sort of guideline for you, so you won't have to make as many measurements. Use a thread color that closely matches your fabric. Fold the hem inward, with the stitching right at the folded edged, and press it flat with an iron. Lift the iron up and down as you press; do not move it side to side. You should have a ¼ inch (0.63 centimeters) wide hem inside your skirt at this point. Fold them hem inward by another ¼ inch (0.63 centimeters), and press it flat with an iron again. Because the folding takes up some excess fabric, your hem will be about 5/8 inch (1.59 centimeters), as opposed to an exact ½ inch (1.27 centimeters). Stitch the hem down, 1/8 inch (0.32 centimeters) from the top folded edge. If your sewing machine has an edge stitching foot attachment, consider using that instead. The edge stitching foot is often labeled as a #5 foot. Use a thread color that closely matches your fabric. Press the hem one last time. After this, your skirt is ready to wear.	Decide how long you want the skirt to be, and add 2 inches (5.08 centimeters) to it. Draw a line across the skirt where you need to cut it using dressmaker's chalk. Cut the excess fabric off using fabric scissors, using the line you drew as a guide. Fold the hem down by ½ inch (1.27 centimeters), secure it with sewing pins, then press it with an iron. Fold the hem down by another 1½ inches (3.81 centimeters), secure it with sewing pins, then press it flat with an iron again. Consider sewing the hem down using a sewing machine. Consider blind stitching the hem. Press the hem down with an iron one final time. Determine how long you want your skirt to be, then add 5/8 inch (1.59 centimeters) to it. Draw a line around the skirt where you need to cut it, then cut along that line. Using a sewing machine, straight stitch a line ¼ inch (0.63 centimeters) away from the cut edge. Fold the hem inward, with the stitching right at the folded edged, and press it flat with an iron. Fold them hem inward by another ¼ inch (0.63 centimeters), and press it flat with an iron again. Stitch the hem down, 1/8 inch (0.32 centimeters) from the top folded edge. Press the hem one last time.