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ed263ee
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Parent(s):
51337c9
Fri May 5 05:27:10 UTC 2023
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- diy/2554845.txt +39 -0
- diy/2562551.txt +3 -0
- diy/2588241.txt +9 -0
- diy/2592147.txt +10 -0
- diy/2592291.txt +52 -0
- diy/2593638.txt +5 -0
- diy/2596952.txt +12 -0
- diy/2598950.txt +36 -0
- diy/2599150.txt +18 -0
- diy/2600034.txt +33 -0
- diy/2600546.txt +3 -0
- diy/2600636.txt +4 -0
- diy/2603825.txt +4 -0
- diy/2604232.txt +9 -0
- diy/2604239.txt +9 -0
- diy/2604466.txt +22 -0
- diy/2604810.txt +147 -0
- diy/2605021.txt +3 -0
- diy/2605059.txt +112 -0
- diy/2605206.txt +8 -0
- diy/2605407.txt +35 -0
- diy/2605817.txt +2 -0
- diy/2606350.txt +38 -0
- diy/2606690.txt +11 -0
- diy/2606718.txt +327 -0
- diy/2606884.txt +20 -0
- diy/2607015.txt +115 -0
- diy/2607075.txt +9 -0
- diy/2607084.txt +3 -0
- diy/2607354.txt +100 -0
- diy/2607396.txt +12 -0
- diy/2607485.txt +55 -0
- diy/2607615.txt +9 -0
- diy/2607761.txt +30 -0
- diy/2607877.txt +5 -0
- diy/2608229.txt +6 -0
- diy/2608358.txt +2 -0
- diy/2608400.txt +3 -0
- diy/2608474.txt +6 -0
- diy/2608809.txt +13 -0
- diy/2609213.txt +4 -0
- diy/2609236.txt +42 -0
- diy/2609286.txt +39 -0
- diy/2609300.txt +21 -0
- diy/2609402.txt +32 -0
- diy/2609419.txt +31 -0
- diy/2609518.txt +5 -0
- diy/2609524.txt +29 -0
- diy/2609532.txt +40 -0
- diy/2609693.txt +34 -0
diy/2554845.txt
CHANGED
@@ -1059,3 +1059,42 @@ Hey guys. Maybe wrong thread, but how would I go about recreating that rusty / v
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>>2608659
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>>2608664
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too childish and consoomer-brained for me; i don't really like the retrowave look anymore, the internet ruined it
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>>2608659
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>>2608664
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too childish and consoomer-brained for me; i don't really like the retrowave look anymore, the internet ruined it
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--- 2609936
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I'm gonna post some setups from actual 4chan austists.
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--- 2609939
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>>2609937
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other angle
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--- 2609965
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>>2555303
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Based is what you like, without regard to anyone else's feelings or opinions. See >>2555556.
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If you'd prefer to go for "generally appealing to the majority of people" instead of "based", I think you can't go wrong with mid-century modern.
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>>2555556
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I love the arrogance that was involved in the design of this house. She doesn't give a fuck. It's ugly but I appreciate her conviction.
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--- 2610009
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>>2609937
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>>2609939
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this is crazy because I thought
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>"Holy shit this guy is an actual Nazi"
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>"There's no way he's a nazi, the throw pillows and curtains are too on the nose, this must be satire"
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>"there's no way he spent all of this money unless he is an honest to god nazi"
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--- 2610014
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>>2609938
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w2c that bashar flag
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--- 2610046
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No room as Gucci as mine
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--- 2610187
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>>2609943
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Unironic kino
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--- 2610252
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>>2567525
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Raw exposed wood in a home works to regulate humidity
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--- 2610302
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>>2608480
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damn i didn't believe you but wtf he totally is
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that voice though, warrants some directed physical violence
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--- 2610379
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don't care if I'm a weeb but nothing will be as comfy as this house.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ts8EdRhcuPQ [Embed]
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diy/2562551.txt
CHANGED
@@ -1255,3 +1255,6 @@ If you are smart about high temp refractories and have the cash for the high tem
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--- 2609811
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Been a while since I posted here. Ended up finding that the hot glue sticks I was using as gates/sprues/risers was causing my sand/plaster molds to crack due to CTE mismatch. I printed a bunch of PLA cylinders to use instead and this resolved the problem since they are mostly hollow and have room to expand into. I still prefer to print them separate from PLA preform since integrating them directly into the print complicates the printing.
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I was dating a polymer chemist and she made a comment it could be the CTE mismatch when I brought her my mold problems. Things didn't work out with her but things did work out with the casting troubleshooting and that's what matters.
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--- 2609811
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Been a while since I posted here. Ended up finding that the hot glue sticks I was using as gates/sprues/risers was causing my sand/plaster molds to crack due to CTE mismatch. I printed a bunch of PLA cylinders to use instead and this resolved the problem since they are mostly hollow and have room to expand into. I still prefer to print them separate from PLA preform since integrating them directly into the print complicates the printing.
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I was dating a polymer chemist and she made a comment it could be the CTE mismatch when I brought her my mold problems. Things didn't work out with her but things did work out with the casting troubleshooting and that's what matters.
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--- 2610335
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>>2609811
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Metallurgist GFs are hotter.
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diy/2588241.txt
CHANGED
@@ -819,3 +819,12 @@ Just checking in on this thread to see if she's still embarrassing herself by ho
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--- 2609052
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>>2588280
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This might not be /b/, but it's still 4chan. Tits or GTFO, bitch
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--- 2609052
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>>2588280
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This might not be /b/, but it's still 4chan. Tits or GTFO, bitch
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--- 2610127
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>>2588336
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You have no choice
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--- 2610128
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Lady dont be afraid of heavy weights, just invest in proper equipment like cranes and motorized trolleys to do the heavy lifting. Focus on the parts of the trade that require some talent.
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Its much better to work in manufacture than doing repairs, since the job is predictable and you can invest in proper and tested routines. With repairs you have to work 10 times more than doing something new from scratch.
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--- 2610164
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>>2588336
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starcraft terran voice *lesbian detected*
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diy/2592147.txt
CHANGED
@@ -328,3 +328,13 @@ everyone's played linerider
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>>2592147 (OP)
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>trusting a beaner to do anything
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At best you get Home Depot quality and at worst you get this shit. I have a conspiracy theory that spics do shitty jobs on purpose so that way they have to come back a second time and charge you more money. I refuse to believe everyone south of the Texas border are this fucking retarded.
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>>2592147 (OP)
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>trusting a beaner to do anything
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At best you get Home Depot quality and at worst you get this shit. I have a conspiracy theory that spics do shitty jobs on purpose so that way they have to come back a second time and charge you more money. I refuse to believe everyone south of the Texas border are this fucking retarded.
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--- 2610219
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>>2608878
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Butthurt much?
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>>2609281
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>Boom!
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That's what I say!
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>>2609285
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>"Straight" line
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>>2609288
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Hmm...
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diy/2592291.txt
CHANGED
@@ -1046,3 +1046,55 @@ this might be a stupid question, but is there any kind of bit I can use on a CNC
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--- 2609765
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>>2609379
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Probably just a rebating bit and program it so those passes leave that bit.
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--- 2609765
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>>2609379
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Probably just a rebating bit and program it so those passes leave that bit.
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--- 2609951
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>>2608902
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The point being that some people do things like use hand tools because they enjoy the action itself, not just the product they are making.
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--- 2610020
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Should I put another coat of poly on, or is this as smooth as im going to get?
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I'm quite suprised with how much of the grains texture you can still see, because I sanded this table to a glass finish before putting on the first coat and Ive given it a very light sand between coats to keep it flat, but not im on i think the 4th or 5th coat and i dont know what im even sanding for any more.
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--- 2610101
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>>2610020
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without a filler, pores will always show, and the scratches are leftover from half assed surface preb
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>>2609346
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>usually use those instead of stropping.
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anon even stropping on your plain pants will improve on that. i dont even bother with my ark anymore
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--- 2610120
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>>2592291 (OP)
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I've decided to build a bean trellis out of scrap wood I inherited from my grandpa.
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I'm using cut and pointed 2x4 as the stakes to ground it and 1x3s (2 sandwiched together for the bottom of the frame and mount for the stakes, singular ones for rest of outer frame) for the frame. I use wide head screws for assembly. I put extras every 5 inches and leave the top half inch or so of screw sticking out to run string inside the frame like picrel. I plan to put screw anchors on the mounting point of the fram to the base and stakes so that I can dissassemble them in winter.
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2 questions.
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One, should I treat at least the stakes and bottom of the frame; if so what treatment would not contaminate the beans I intend to grow?
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Two, is this design strong enough to withstand wind and whatnot? I imagine once loaded down with vines it will start to act almost like a sail in the right wind direction.
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--- 2610133
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>>2608145
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Is he colorblind?
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--- 2610221
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So Ive setup the bare minimum for woodworking in a storage unit Ive had rented in the apartment building.
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Couple questions:
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First: what do I finish the top with? I oiled the rest of the bench with some brown oil but I figured I should do some more looking before I oil the surface that's going to see all the abuse.
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Second: what else should I acquire for the workspace? To the left of the image are shelves and a rack system, I'll probably take two of the shelves off the rack and then figure out a way to hang my tools. Other than that something to make sawing easier would be good. There's enough space for basically everything aside from heavy machinery, but eventually I'll get a proper workshop to house those in.
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--- 2610224
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>>2610221
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It's a workbench, you don't need to finish it. You're going to be hitting it, cutting it, drilling it, resting sharp tools on it, etc.
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--- 2610263
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>>2610224
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I guess that's fair, when I got it it had some mold, I sprayed it scrubbed it cleaned it planed it and sanded it but I figured I could still try and seal whatever is on the top in.
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I will need to make a heavier bench eventually since this one rocks if Im going too hard. It is portable if I want to take it to the cottage or something which is nice.
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--- 2610293
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>>2610221
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You can and should apply a 'finish'. I built my own bench using an example from The Workbench Book. It is useful to pad on a mix of beeswax softened with light mineral oil. This mix will protect the surface from staining. You will build furniture on this bench, so no direct contact with sharp anything, no hammering on the surface. I had two benches and a set-up bench. If this is for fine woodworking, treat it like a fine tool.
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--- 2610328
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>>2610101
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>and the scratches are leftover from half assed surface preb
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well i dont know what else to say, it couldnt have been any smoother, and those uneveness only appeared after coating, so i dont think scratches is the right term
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--- 2610413
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>>2610221
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I would put some weight on the bottom shelf of the workbench in the hopes that it would stabilize it.
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sawbench
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drill press
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assembly table from 2 sawhorses and a door or plywood
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chopsaw
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clamps
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diy/2593638.txt
CHANGED
@@ -604,3 +604,8 @@ t. never machined anything
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--- 2609480
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>>2609232
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Thats a slavonegroid language.
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--- 2609480
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>>2609232
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Thats a slavonegroid language.
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--- 2610428
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Today I fucked up by using a flash drive that was contaminated with programs for our okuma mill in our mori seiki lathe. Weird thing happened where a random section of the mill's code ended up in the middle of my live-tool OD engraving program. There were 10 different programs that I loaded onto the controller, each identical except the numbers getting engraved, so by the time I get to like the 5th one I'm zoning out and not paying attention to the screen. I didn't catch the random bit of code that ended up -X ing it to infinity at max feed.
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Luckily the part being engraved was just a thin walled tube that bent out of the way pretty quick, but unfortunately that made the turret hit the top of a soft jaw hard enough to leave an impression, which knocked the location of all my tools out by about .04". The turret wasn't perfectly straight to begin with since I tossed a part and crashed it a year ago, and I'm sure the previous owner knocked it around some too. That's not a big deal until the next time I drill some deep holes but I'm still pretty pissed about it happening.
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Anybody else seen something like that?
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Haven't told the boss yet since he was already pissed about another job going wrong.
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diy/2596952.txt
CHANGED
@@ -159,3 +159,15 @@ Anon, I....
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--- 2609900
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>>2598054
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When I did landscaping, I would leave dicks every on the job site. Some made of dirt, some made out rock or SOD. There is a boulevard in some rich area in my city that has one foot cock and balls made out of rock hiding in plain site.
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--- 2609900
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>>2598054
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When I did landscaping, I would leave dicks every on the job site. Some made of dirt, some made out rock or SOD. There is a boulevard in some rich area in my city that has one foot cock and balls made out of rock hiding in plain site.
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--- 2610064
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>>2609900
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That reminds me of another story from highschool... During FBLA state competition a bunch of us would go to Vail Colorado where they put the competition on. So there are basically a bunch of high-schoolers running around like hooligans.
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We went back behind the hotel and were walking along this creek path and there were benches around for people to sit on and enjoy the view. It had snowed the night before so we decided to make a nice snow penis sitting on the bench. It was around 2' tall complete with snowballs and an intricately carved head...
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Came back a couple.hours later from a conference and someone had destroyed it...
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Why doesn't anyone appreciate my artwork?
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--- 2610143
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>>2609144
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i hate that i know exactly what youre talking about
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diy/2598950.txt
CHANGED
@@ -484,3 +484,39 @@ What kind of grease should I use for the gears in my sewing machine?
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484 |
What kind of machine is this? It sounds like a tension issue. 2mm webbing is pretty heavy for a home machine, I assume you've tried just maxxing out the tension? Pretty much no risk of breaking that thread, so I'd just try it as high as it goes.
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I actually just made a padded cover so thick it didn't even really fit under the needle properly. Ended up having to do some jank routing of the thread to get more tension than the tensioner could normally provide. You may have to do similar on a light machine.
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What kind of machine is this? It sounds like a tension issue. 2mm webbing is pretty heavy for a home machine, I assume you've tried just maxxing out the tension? Pretty much no risk of breaking that thread, so I'd just try it as high as it goes.
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I actually just made a padded cover so thick it didn't even really fit under the needle properly. Ended up having to do some jank routing of the thread to get more tension than the tensioner could normally provide. You may have to do similar on a light machine.
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--- 2610116
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>>2609807
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I use SuperLube. Sailrite carries it in a precision pen applicator.
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--- 2610118
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How important is it really to match your thread to your fabric color? Especially when your fabric has different colors, like a floral print? I don't want to end up with a bunch of spools of thread I'm only going to use once. Does the bobbinthread have to match too or can I just use white, black, greys inthe bobbin?
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--- 2610129
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>>2610118
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Completely up to you.
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--- 2610130
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>>2609499
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>>2609514
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try increasing the foot pressure. try basting it by hand first too.
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>I really suspect it’s the fabric because it sews okay on pe webbing.
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dyneema is pe too. it's just more slippery, cut resistant, and inelastic than the other webbing.
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a walking foot would also help. mind the width if you get one, there are ones compatible with your machine. also seconding the denim needle suggestion. you know how to check your needle and thread sizes against each other to make sure they work well together?
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>>2610118
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personal preference really. some people do all their sewing with various grey shades. a light color (meaning lighter than the fabric) will visually stand out more than a dark one. with multicolor prints when you're wanting the stitching to blend in, choosing a thread that matches a dominant color in the fabric is a popular strategy. another is to match the thread to the brightest accent color so it purposefully contrasts visually with the rest but in a harmonious way.
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--- 2610131
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>>2601136
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Hi... Um... r u. an.. uh.. a w-women?
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--- 2610250
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>>2598953
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I legitimately laughed pretty hard at this
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--- 2610290
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I've got a Morse super dial straight stitch machine and the upper thread tension is right fucked. It may or may not be missing parts in the tension unit but I know for sure the tension spring is fucked cause I fucked it, accidentally pulled it apart and stretched it.
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Anyway, will a thread tension spring from a Singer fit it? I think it's basically a Jap made Singer clone anyway.
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Also how bad is some slight corrosion on the tension discs? I have some micromesh pads so I should be able to polish that shit smooth af.
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--- 2610423
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>>2598950 (OP)
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519 |
+
Made my own wallet. At first with paper reinforced with tape and staples, then with leather and stitched by hand (horrible results) and then with silver tape sheets stitched by hand. This one came out almost perfect, the design is exactly what i wanted and the stitching was perfect.
|
520 |
+
But i made it maybe 5% too small.
|
521 |
+
And then the law changed over here and i don't have to carry my driver's license anymore and one credit card stuck to my phone case solves everything else so no more wallet.
|
522 |
+
I want to make a new one but i need a decent material for it and i've never found it. The tape is not bad but i don't want to make the same thing again.
|
diy/2599150.txt
CHANGED
@@ -477,3 +477,21 @@ What the fuck, do you not want hot water?
|
|
477 |
well no fucking shit and probably some more insulation too
|
478 |
>on the inside you'll end up putting up inside walls with a recess for utilities
|
479 |
just plaster the fucking wires inside the wall lmao retard
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
477 |
well no fucking shit and probably some more insulation too
|
478 |
>on the inside you'll end up putting up inside walls with a recess for utilities
|
479 |
just plaster the fucking wires inside the wall lmao retard
|
480 |
+
--- 2609985
|
481 |
+
>>2599150 (OP)
|
482 |
+
https://twitter.com/i/status/1653852223074451456
|
483 |
+
--- 2610023
|
484 |
+
After watching Grand Designs apparently wood framed is the Gucci option people want kek
|
485 |
+
--- 2610027
|
486 |
+
>>2600994
|
487 |
+
worse, condos and suburbs aren't even meant to last 30
|
488 |
+
--- 2610028
|
489 |
+
>>2605280
|
490 |
+
this house has a nice design and id love to live in this sort of place
|
491 |
+
--- 2610090
|
492 |
+
>>2610027
|
493 |
+
Reading Eurotards commenting on American housing is like hearing the opinions of a New Guinea headhunter on how photography works, nothing but pure ignorance and superstition.
|
494 |
+
|
495 |
+
Even the oldest planned suburban tract house communities in the US have most of the original housing still intact; much of it has been expanded and updated but it's exceedingly rare to see a complete teardown of a house in US suburbs unless it suffered a catastrophic fire or tornado/hurricane hit.
|
496 |
+
|
497 |
+
Ironically the residential housing type most likely to be demolished in the USA are the giant urban public housing block projects modeled on European social collectivist principles and designs.
|
diy/2600034.txt
CHANGED
@@ -399,3 +399,36 @@ Tbqhwy, it seems like the bermuda grass is used as a quick filler around here un
|
|
399 |
--- 2608672
|
400 |
>>2602651
|
401 |
till it under, but like the other anon said, bare dirt will just attract weeds. Plant some sort of cover plant, like mint, until you decide to actually do your garden.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
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|
|
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|
399 |
--- 2608672
|
400 |
>>2602651
|
401 |
till it under, but like the other anon said, bare dirt will just attract weeds. Plant some sort of cover plant, like mint, until you decide to actually do your garden.
|
402 |
+
--- 2610299
|
403 |
+
>>2606701
|
404 |
+
2,4-D and Roundup are both broadleaf herbicides but they are not the same chemical.
|
405 |
+
|
406 |
+
>>2608541
|
407 |
+
Try a weightlifter's belt to stabilize your back.
|
408 |
+
|
409 |
+
More importantly, do lumbar strengthening exercises.
|
410 |
+
|
411 |
+
|
412 |
+
>>2608569
|
413 |
+
No 14 year olds allowed here.
|
414 |
+
--- 2610320
|
415 |
+
>>2610299
|
416 |
+
i'm not 14 i just have a microclover lawn because i have better things to do than spend my free time sitting 2rjxyon a tractor.
|
417 |
+
--- 2610341
|
418 |
+
>>2610320
|
419 |
+
>micro*(name a plant)
|
420 |
+
It's like calling veal "micro cow". You don't even have a lawn to not mow.
|
421 |
+
--- 2610344
|
422 |
+
>>2610341
|
423 |
+
i'm not even sure what the point of this post is.
|
424 |
+
--- 2610356
|
425 |
+
>>2608606
|
426 |
+
Try marvel mystery oil in the fuel, especially if you're using ethanol too. Also double check your exhaust manifold/muffler for leaks too. I replaced 2 on my time master and the blowout was always in the same spot. The thinnest part of the gasket on the left. I planned on making a custom gasket that was thicker than the stock but it died before I got a chance.
|
427 |
+
|
428 |
+
>>2610344
|
429 |
+
I'm not even sure what the point of you being here is. Harvesting micro (you)'s?
|
430 |
+
--- 2610359
|
431 |
+
>>2610356
|
432 |
+
i'm here for the same reason you are, to shitpost about lawns.
|
433 |
+
--- 2610420
|
434 |
+
How can I convince about 20 strangers to pay me to cut their grass every week? I have everything a solo grass-cutter would need. The problem? I have Autistic.
|
diy/2600546.txt
CHANGED
@@ -446,3 +446,6 @@ You get smoked when this thing passes by
|
|
446 |
--- 2607971
|
447 |
>>2604984
|
448 |
nice thing is that many of those that are abandoning the air tools are selling them for cheap
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
446 |
--- 2607971
|
447 |
>>2604984
|
448 |
nice thing is that many of those that are abandoning the air tools are selling them for cheap
|
449 |
+
--- 2609940
|
450 |
+
Pretty fucking awful if any water gets inside, and thanks to how condensation and pressure works, water will get inside your tools.
|
451 |
+
Sure you can buy a water trap and rust proof tools. Depending how deep your pockets are, a lot of things in life can seem “underestimated”.
|
diy/2600636.txt
CHANGED
@@ -327,3 +327,7 @@ Not "fly-by-wire through the Kremlin," instead "navigate to Putin," fire and for
|
|
327 |
That's what I'm trying to say.
|
328 |
|
329 |
Once the computer controlling the drone is sophisticated and reliable enough to make and execute those "small scale" decisions on its own, the way an ace does, comms latency to base will be (largely) irrelevant. With todays' tech, nothing we can pack into an F-18/22-size envelope can compete with the skill of a 50th-percentile pilot. But that's not going to be true for long.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
327 |
That's what I'm trying to say.
|
328 |
|
329 |
Once the computer controlling the drone is sophisticated and reliable enough to make and execute those "small scale" decisions on its own, the way an ace does, comms latency to base will be (largely) irrelevant. With todays' tech, nothing we can pack into an F-18/22-size envelope can compete with the skill of a 50th-percentile pilot. But that's not going to be true for long.
|
330 |
+
--- 2610125
|
331 |
+
>>2609849
|
332 |
+
AI don't have latency
|
333 |
+
human fighter pilots will be obsolete in the next decade.
|
diy/2603825.txt
CHANGED
@@ -130,3 +130,7 @@ just make it so you need electricity too keep it in turtle mode dummy
|
|
130 |
--- 2609459
|
131 |
>>2603825 (OP)
|
132 |
>To me this has got to be the most ideal fucking house I have ever seen
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
130 |
--- 2609459
|
131 |
>>2603825 (OP)
|
132 |
>To me this has got to be the most ideal fucking house I have ever seen
|
133 |
+
--- 2610411
|
134 |
+
I want that but on stilts. I want to pull the access stairs up.
|
135 |
+
Yes, i live among nigger mokeys, that's why i want it.
|
136 |
+
I need a small, monkey version of this, not a huge proof of architectural jerkoff version.
|
diy/2604232.txt
CHANGED
@@ -268,3 +268,12 @@ t. supertool 300 owner
|
|
268 |
Be careful about local laws. In the UK you are not allowed to own a knife unless it is shorter than King Charles' penis and folds into its own handle
|
269 |
|
270 |
https://www.legislation.gov.uk/ukpga/1988/33/part/XI/crossheading/articles-with-blades-or-points-and-offensive-weapons
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
268 |
Be careful about local laws. In the UK you are not allowed to own a knife unless it is shorter than King Charles' penis and folds into its own handle
|
269 |
|
270 |
https://www.legislation.gov.uk/ukpga/1988/33/part/XI/crossheading/articles-with-blades-or-points-and-offensive-weapons
|
271 |
+
--- 2610363
|
272 |
+
>>2609395
|
273 |
+
10 cm. blade max, in Portugal
|
274 |
+
--- 2610382
|
275 |
+
>>2609395
|
276 |
+
Btw, picrel was my elementary school days' mandatory "hunting" knife, I bought at a local hardware store (doubt it was the same steel, back then, though):
|
277 |
+
https://www.icel.pt/pt/produtos/outras-facas/facas-de-mato/
|
278 |
+
--- 2610400
|
279 |
+
Literally all u need, fuck carrying around that big autism thing and using 5% on a daily basis.
|
diy/2604239.txt
CHANGED
@@ -275,3 +275,12 @@ Only one of those is, and probably not in use for a long time; all that I've see
|
|
275 |
>has a really nice looking chair, looks like it's also very comfortable to sit in
|
276 |
>decides she will completely destroy it and turn it into some hideous abomination "art" piece that is undoubtedly as uncomfortable to sit in as it is to look at
|
277 |
Women are fucking retarded.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
275 |
>has a really nice looking chair, looks like it's also very comfortable to sit in
|
276 |
>decides she will completely destroy it and turn it into some hideous abomination "art" piece that is undoubtedly as uncomfortable to sit in as it is to look at
|
277 |
Women are fucking retarded.
|
278 |
+
--- 2610227
|
279 |
+
>>2608877
|
280 |
+
>Modern "art"
|
281 |
+
Thank the CIA for that money laundering abomination
|
282 |
+
--- 2610310
|
283 |
+
>>2604577
|
284 |
+
What do you serve?
|
285 |
+
--- 2610430
|
286 |
+
I upcylced your mum
|
diy/2604466.txt
CHANGED
@@ -237,3 +237,25 @@ it was over before it even began
|
|
237 |
--- 2609851
|
238 |
>>2604466 (OP)
|
239 |
Thats just him being him like always
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
237 |
--- 2609851
|
238 |
>>2604466 (OP)
|
239 |
Thats just him being him like always
|
240 |
+
--- 2609922
|
241 |
+
>>2604684
|
242 |
+
>gf
|
243 |
+
what happened to her?
|
244 |
+
--- 2609923
|
245 |
+
>>2605972
|
246 |
+
>globohomo
|
247 |
+
funny way to spell `jews`
|
248 |
+
--- 2609928
|
249 |
+
>>2609922
|
250 |
+
No deets to speak of. Maybe if you can find someone that stalked his discord at the time
|
251 |
+
|
252 |
+
Maybe she wanted to ride him to boost her yt channel
|
253 |
+
|
254 |
+
Maybe the autism was too much
|
255 |
+
|
256 |
+
Maybe it's Maybelline
|
257 |
+
--- 2610418
|
258 |
+
>>2605491
|
259 |
+
And he got a brain damage from a bike fall.
|
260 |
+
And apple is squeezing his ability to repair shit every day.
|
261 |
+
I do not enjoy watching his pain.
|
diy/2604810.txt
CHANGED
@@ -1358,3 +1358,150 @@ https://www.sound-au.com
|
|
1358 |
--- 2609891
|
1359 |
>>2609870
|
1360 |
Thank you
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
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|
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|
|
|
|
|
1358 |
--- 2609891
|
1359 |
>>2609870
|
1360 |
Thank you
|
1361 |
+
--- 2610200
|
1362 |
+
anyone has resources to teach me how to work around CRT/Vaccum tubes? Like safety precautions, etc.
|
1363 |
+
--- 2610244
|
1364 |
+
>>2610200
|
1365 |
+
Shango066
|
1366 |
+
--- 2610246
|
1367 |
+
>>2609866
|
1368 |
+
> no want book.. anon want smash
|
1369 |
+
Too bad magazines like elektor, eti, radio electronics, etc don’t exist anymore
|
1370 |
+
--- 2610249
|
1371 |
+
>>2610246
|
1372 |
+
Check this link from the OP:
|
1373 |
+
https://worldradiohistory.com/Popular-Electronics-Guide.htm
|
1374 |
+
|
1375 |
+
It's not the same, but it's something.
|
1376 |
+
--- 2610266
|
1377 |
+
>>2610200
|
1378 |
+
one hand behind your back
|
1379 |
+
also isolation transformer if working on old radios
|
1380 |
+
--- 2610272
|
1381 |
+
$1987
|
1382 |
+
--- 2610278
|
1383 |
+
>>2610272
|
1384 |
+
Please take me back...
|
1385 |
+
--- 2610283
|
1386 |
+
>>2610278
|
1387 |
+
--- 2610292
|
1388 |
+
>>2610278
|
1389 |
+
To shitty slow computers?
|
1390 |
+
--- 2610294
|
1391 |
+
>>2610292
|
1392 |
+
>computers that are fun and comprehensible instead of controlling you
|
1393 |
+
Why do you think I'm into embedded?
|
1394 |
+
--- 2610295
|
1395 |
+
>>2610292
|
1396 |
+
It can run Wolfenstein 3D.
|
1397 |
+
--- 2610301
|
1398 |
+
>>2610294
|
1399 |
+
>instead of controlling you
|
1400 |
+
Why do you think I run Linux?
|
1401 |
+
--- 2610307
|
1402 |
+
ACT NOW
|
1403 |
+
SUPPLIES ARE LIMITED
|
1404 |
+
--- 2610311
|
1405 |
+
>>2610301
|
1406 |
+
I also run Linux, but Microsoft and Oracle are major sponsors of the Linux Foundation.
|
1407 |
+
--- 2610316
|
1408 |
+
>>2610312
|
1409 |
+
>36 years later
|
1410 |
+
>marketing is exactly the same
|
1411 |
+
--- 2610318
|
1412 |
+
>>2610316
|
1413 |
+
>I better hurry up and invest
|
1414 |
+
lmao
|
1415 |
+
--- 2610322
|
1416 |
+
>>2610318
|
1417 |
+
>prolog
|
1418 |
+
>lisp
|
1419 |
+
The residuals of "symbolic" AI. Now everyone is into NNs.
|
1420 |
+
--- 2610325
|
1421 |
+
>>2610322
|
1422 |
+
I wonder how a neural network would fare on a Mac cluster.
|
1423 |
+
--- 2610343
|
1424 |
+
EPSTEIN DIDN'T CPAP MACHINE POWER CORD HIMSELF
|
1425 |
+
--- 2610347
|
1426 |
+
>>2610322
|
1427 |
+
Nothing really new in NNs either other than hype.
|
1428 |
+
It’s been used in post offices to read your chicken scrawl for decades already.
|
1429 |
+
--- 2610352
|
1430 |
+
>>2610343
|
1431 |
+
Now microsoft just uses the clang front end for their C++ compiler.
|
1432 |
+
They can’t even compete against freeware and occasional volunteers/internet randos.
|
1433 |
+
Even their C++ templates needed to be hacked into their preprocessor since they didn’t even have the ability to maintain, update and improve what they had.
|
1434 |
+
What’s left? Taking others’ code and wedging it into bing and trying to steal apple and sony’s innovations.
|
1435 |
+
--- 2610355
|
1436 |
+
All I need is QuickBASIC and gorilla.bas and I can ruin AI and take over the world.
|
1437 |
+
--- 2610367
|
1438 |
+
Looks like the laser has some delay between turning on and off, which is a pain. There's also a significant difference between its effective intensity in long straight areas compared to tight squiggly areas, so obviously the acceleration limitations of my laser are limiting me.
|
1439 |
+
|
1440 |
+
I'll try just tuning the maximum speed down and tuning the laser power down, hopefully that solves my problem.
|
1441 |
+
--- 2610368
|
1442 |
+
>>2604810 (OP)
|
1443 |
+
I'm a total noob at electronics, currently learning. I can't seem to grasp one thing;
|
1444 |
+
|
1445 |
+
I've been taught that the current primarily travels from the ground to vcc via electrons. And that makes sense in context of connecting the resistor with kathode of a diode. But when I measured current on the diode pins, it was actually higher on the anode. I know the diode itself eats up a little bit of current but I can't understand why the measured current is actually higher from the plus side. The same goes with resistors, I noticed.
|
1446 |
+
|
1447 |
+
Does this just mean my multimeter is favoring the + to - flow in it's outputs? Or should I measure with inverted probes and assume it makes sense now since electrons are negatively charged?
|
1448 |
+
--- 2610372
|
1449 |
+
>>2610368
|
1450 |
+
Two things:
|
1451 |
+
Electron current is fucking stupid because everyone uses conventional current (i.e. what naturally flows from positive potentials to negative potentials). Unless you're talking about what happens inside semiconductor devices or electron tubes, it doesn't matter what charge moves. Even when you're using semiconductors or tubes, it basically doesn't matter since you only ever care about the current outside them. As far as your multimeter is concerned, a positive current is just a higher voltage on the red side of the current sense resistor than on the black side.
|
1452 |
+
|
1453 |
+
You don't measure current "on the diode pins", you measure current "through the diode pins". Current is equal in series, so there should be no difference between current on one side of a diode compared to on another. Did you mean measuring potential on either side of it? Post a damn circuit diagram.
|
1454 |
+
--- 2610374
|
1455 |
+
>>2610368
|
1456 |
+
Are you a physicsfag or a chemistryfag?
|
1457 |
+
--- 2610375
|
1458 |
+
>>2610306
|
1459 |
+
>$1000 for a fucking programmer
|
1460 |
+
>not counting inflation
|
1461 |
+
--- 2610378
|
1462 |
+
>>2610375
|
1463 |
+
>"Just put it on the company charge card."
|
1464 |
+
>buy 2, keep 1 free because "it broke".
|
1465 |
+
lmao
|
1466 |
+
--- 2610386
|
1467 |
+
>>2610368
|
1468 |
+
>>2610372
|
1469 |
+
I meant voltage but I kept writing current. Sorry.
|
1470 |
+
The diagram is literally picrel. I just wanted to know why the VOLTAGE was higher on the plus side of the diode but I think you explained that well enough for me
|
1471 |
+
>>2610374
|
1472 |
+
I know a fair share about doping the semiconductors but I'd rather say physicsfag
|
1473 |
+
--- 2610389
|
1474 |
+
>>2610386
|
1475 |
+
>I'd rather say physicsfag
|
1476 |
+
If you serve two masters you'll end up schizophrenic. You have to forget everything you learned in physics textbooks and go into practical logic mode.
|
1477 |
+
--- 2610397
|
1478 |
+
>>2604810 (OP)
|
1479 |
+
not really strictly electronics related, but I'm sure you guys know.
|
1480 |
+
|
1481 |
+
I want to run a 120v 1100' / 335meters long wire (with a 20a breaker) to feed an electric gate, a couple of lighting poles, and maybe something else along the way. would a 12awg / 2mm stranded copper wire suffice for that distance? or should I opt for a thicker wire? aside from the gate electronics and the LED electronics, nothing that is sensitive to voltage sag will be exposed. yes, I'm trying to save every penny possible
|
1482 |
+
--- 2610401
|
1483 |
+
>>2610386
|
1484 |
+
Yeah you just look at the circuit as 3 different nodes of different relative voltages. Typically we treat the 0V or common or ground or whatever as the reference point for all other measurements, so in this case the voltages of the three nodes would be 5V, ~4.3V, and 0V.
|
1485 |
+
|
1486 |
+
>>2610397
|
1487 |
+
What's the maximum total current draw? Chances are it's way lower than 20A, and its what you calculate your wire size based off.
|
1488 |
+
12awg is kinda expensive though, if you really need wire that thick you'd be better off using a microwave oven transformer at either end, in order to have a 2kVAC transmission line using thinner wire. The resultant cable would need to be insulation tested appropriately though. Otherwise using a more tame 120/240V isolation transformer at either end should definitely be a consideration.
|
1489 |
+
|
1490 |
+
Even a solar panel or other energy harvesting methods might be on the table, considering you'd be spending in the ballpark of 200USD in wire.
|
1491 |
+
--- 2610415
|
1492 |
+
>>2610401
|
1493 |
+
max power with the gate (~700w) running, would be about 1,300 watts including the lighting (~600w).
|
1494 |
+
|
1495 |
+
I don't know much about solar panels, but sadly the whole area is covered with a bunch of thick trees, with not a single patch of clear sky in sight, so I don't know if that would work.
|
1496 |
+
|
1497 |
+
if it was just me walking through that path, I wouldn't mind using a microwave oven transformer, but I don't wanna end up killing someone with my butchered together DIY, so I'm gonna have to pussy out of that one.
|
1498 |
+
|
1499 |
+
the 120/240V isolation transformer idea seems nice. I could just get a bunch of LED street lights that play nice with ~240v, and then just convert back to 120v at the gate.
|
1500 |
+
--- 2610419
|
1501 |
+
>>2610401
|
1502 |
+
>ballpark of 200USD in wire.
|
1503 |
+
|
1504 |
+
dont listen to this guy.
|
1505 |
+
you can pick up 1000 feet of thick wire almost anywhere for free.
|
1506 |
+
--- 2610421
|
1507 |
+
>>2610419
|
diy/2605021.txt
CHANGED
@@ -72,3 +72,6 @@ That's true though, socialism is just one of the jews' many evils, and I can ass
|
|
72 |
--- 2609821
|
73 |
>>2607810
|
74 |
source?
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
72 |
--- 2609821
|
73 |
>>2607810
|
74 |
source?
|
75 |
+
--- 2609952
|
76 |
+
>>2609821
|
77 |
+
a dictionary
|
diy/2605059.txt
CHANGED
@@ -756,3 +756,115 @@ Furring improves insulation and helps with weatherproofing. Keeping it is very w
|
|
756 |
Do I need to use specialty marine paint on an aluminum canoe or will plain old Rustoleum work? And do I need primer? It will only be used in fresh water.
|
757 |
|
758 |
What's the cheapest way I can do this that the paint won't all fall off? I'm a poorfag but I want to paint camo on the autism canoe I just bought
|
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|
756 |
Do I need to use specialty marine paint on an aluminum canoe or will plain old Rustoleum work? And do I need primer? It will only be used in fresh water.
|
757 |
|
758 |
What's the cheapest way I can do this that the paint won't all fall off? I'm a poorfag but I want to paint camo on the autism canoe I just bought
|
759 |
+
--- 2609933
|
760 |
+
>>2605059 (OP)
|
761 |
+
|
762 |
+
I'm a beginner in gardening and I've found two of these in the trash, I'm going to turn then into raised bed(s). Is it worth it going for two or is there not enough depth? If it isn't I'm going to put one on top of the other and create a single deeper one.
|
763 |
+
--- 2609988
|
764 |
+
https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/toolpro-toolpro-automotive-tool-kit-138-piece/521979.html
|
765 |
+
is dis gud?
|
766 |
+
|
767 |
+
Been wanting a big boy socket set with more 3/8 sizes for use with my electric ratchet (have broken 2 or 3 1/4 adapters already). Plus some more deep sockets would be good.
|
768 |
+
|
769 |
+
I can get it for AU$175 through their ebay store
|
770 |
+
--- 2610016
|
771 |
+
>>2609933
|
772 |
+
It’s ok. We used that depth for lots of years, and only recently increased to 30 inches.
|
773 |
+
--- 2610032
|
774 |
+
>>2608951
|
775 |
+
Gravel foundation
|
776 |
+
--- 2610134
|
777 |
+
Please help me find a replacement for this wiring harness. The harness is for a Mcquay airconditioning unit. It has 6 pins. I don't care if it is a used part or if I have to repurpose something.
|
778 |
+
|
779 |
+
Frankly even if you know what kind of connector it is on the end, that would even be helpful.
|
780 |
+
|
781 |
+
>pic rel
|
782 |
+
--- 2610137
|
783 |
+
>>2610134
|
784 |
+
A slightly better image if that helps
|
785 |
+
--- 2610138
|
786 |
+
>>2610137
|
787 |
+
Did you email the parts department
|
788 |
+
--- 2610139
|
789 |
+
>>2610137
|
790 |
+
Can’t tell if this is a match
|
791 |
+
https://www.amazon.com/6-Pin-5-08mm-Pitch-Female-Terminal/dp/B07793ZWD8/ref=asc_df_B07793ZWD8/
|
792 |
+
--- 2610140
|
793 |
+
>>2610138
|
794 |
+
Yes I called 3 different parts suppliers it's seemingly officially unobtainium for the OEM part
|
795 |
+
|
796 |
+
>>2610139
|
797 |
+
WHOA are you a wizard?
|
798 |
+
Looks right, have to get one to test!
|
799 |
+
|
800 |
+
Thank you lmk if you come up with anything else
|
801 |
+
--- 2610141
|
802 |
+
Try a Molex 0395300006
|
803 |
+
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/molex/0395300006/1280673
|
804 |
+
--- 2610147
|
805 |
+
>>2609572
|
806 |
+
>>2609516
|
807 |
+
Thanks again anon. I went at it with the dremel just for convenience's sake. The small jeweler's saw I had made decent enough progress but it would have taken me ages. It's a tad rough around the edges but it looks like how I wanted it to.
|
808 |
+
--- 2610172
|
809 |
+
Cracked my bathtub at my apartment. Can I fix it or am I just fucked now
|
810 |
+
I was going to start moving out this month
|
811 |
+
--- 2610193
|
812 |
+
>>2605527
|
813 |
+
>because wood's too fucking expensive
|
814 |
+
Go cut a piece off of a tree for free.
|
815 |
+
--- 2610198
|
816 |
+
>>2606635
|
817 |
+
S-oybean oil polymerizes just like linseed oil, but is much cheaper. The only drawback is that it takes a month to cure instead of a week.
|
818 |
+
--- 2610203
|
819 |
+
>>2607496
|
820 |
+
Reciprocating saw is the king of stump removal.
|
821 |
+
--- 2610205
|
822 |
+
>>2610172
|
823 |
+
How the fuck did you Crack your tub?
|
824 |
+
|
825 |
+
Was it your fault?
|
826 |
+
--- 2610207
|
827 |
+
>>2608019
|
828 |
+
Is it possible that someone else is tapping off of your water? If so, put a ball valve on there and cut off the supply when not in use [by you].
|
829 |
+
--- 2610212
|
830 |
+
>>2605537
|
831 |
+
My guess is that you either didn't drill a hole in the 2× or did and it's so small that the screw threads are biting into the 2×.
|
832 |
+
|
833 |
+
Then whatever bit of gap is present when the screw engages with the anchor is still there when the screw head bottoms out and can't turn anymore.
|
834 |
+
|
835 |
+
Easiest solution is to make the hole in the 2× just big enough so that the screw threads can't bite into it and the screw spins freely, then whatever gap is there when it engages in the anchor or material you screw into will get taken up as the screw head and threads act like a clamp.
|
836 |
+
|
837 |
+
This is coincidentally why you see screws with smooth shank areas just below the head.
|
838 |
+
|
839 |
+
As for drywall screw anchors, picrel are far better than the shitty soft plastic ones and won't blow your walks out like toggles. Cheap enough you can overkill the shit out of things like shelf brackets, never had one fail yet.
|
840 |
+
--- 2610225
|
841 |
+
>>2610205
|
842 |
+
Accidentally kicked it with my heel and it cracked. It was already super flimsy
|
843 |
+
--- 2610243
|
844 |
+
Am I supposed to just prime and paint directly over this texturing in my unfinished 1960s garage or do I have to cover it in drywall "mud" first?
|
845 |
+
--- 2610248
|
846 |
+
How do I become knowledgeable in general electricity like commercial, residential, maintenance etc? Any useful books I can get? I know very little about electricity and want to become familiar with everything b4 I head to trade school
|
847 |
+
--- 2610281
|
848 |
+
>>2610248
|
849 |
+
Read "Wiring Simplified" online. (you can find it on archive.org for free)
|
850 |
+
If you read/skim through the first hundred pages, you'll have a halfway decent grasp on basic electrical safety and wiring practices in the USA. Don't bother trying to memorize the code tables. This will put you ahead of 99% of the other people in your program, but be sure to listen and learn from people with actual experience.
|
851 |
+
|
852 |
+
Most people learn these trades from other, more experienced workers rather than from books.
|
853 |
+
--- 2610327
|
854 |
+
Landlord is a cheap ass
|
855 |
+
|
856 |
+
>place is full of 2 prong outlets.
|
857 |
+
>some outlets are loose/sunken in.
|
858 |
+
>don't know how old the main panel is.
|
859 |
+
|
860 |
+
He probably isn't going to drop the $$$ for a full rewire plus new panel. Should I ask for some new AFCI/GFCI outlets at least?
|
861 |
+
--- 2610333
|
862 |
+
>>2610281
|
863 |
+
thanks
|
864 |
+
--- 2610364
|
865 |
+
I will buy my first bench PSU, just how bad are the $50-70 ones?
|
866 |
+
I will mostly use it to find shorts in laptop motherboards.
|
867 |
+
|
868 |
+
>Spend more
|
869 |
+
I still have to buy a soldering station and a thermal camera so budget is low.
|
870 |
+
Siglent would be a example of a good brand based in reviews, what else is around?
|
diy/2605206.txt
CHANGED
@@ -256,3 +256,11 @@ But where do you put the dessicant? If it's inside the frame there will be a vis
|
|
256 |
--- 2609414
|
257 |
OP here. Got an order confirmation from pic rel. Should arrive in two weeks. Weatherproofing tape is holding up well, so I'll just leave it for now.
|
258 |
When I take the old glass out I'll try this idea >>2607072 with mineral oil, just to see if it works.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
256 |
--- 2609414
|
257 |
OP here. Got an order confirmation from pic rel. Should arrive in two weeks. Weatherproofing tape is holding up well, so I'll just leave it for now.
|
258 |
When I take the old glass out I'll try this idea >>2607072 with mineral oil, just to see if it works.
|
259 |
+
--- 2610269
|
260 |
+
>>2607703
|
261 |
+
Also what adhesive would you use to make sure the airtight seal lasts for years?
|
262 |
+
--- 2610380
|
263 |
+
>>2607703
|
264 |
+
>baking soda and vinegar
|
265 |
+
horrible idea it will be extremely humid due to all the evaporating vinegar and the bubbles forming a mist.
|
266 |
+
plus the whole thing will stink of vinegar for a long time.
|
diy/2605407.txt
CHANGED
@@ -223,3 +223,38 @@ just feed the whole system with 3.3v
|
|
223 |
--- 2609825
|
224 |
>>2609758
|
225 |
turn off optimisations. why does it matter though? if its unused, youre...bit using it? so why compile it? i cant think of any purpose unused shit in compiled code would serve
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
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|
|
|
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|
223 |
--- 2609825
|
224 |
>>2609758
|
225 |
turn off optimisations. why does it matter though? if its unused, youre...bit using it? so why compile it? i cant think of any purpose unused shit in compiled code would serve
|
226 |
+
--- 2609927
|
227 |
+
>>2609825
|
228 |
+
>so why compile it?
|
229 |
+
|
230 |
+
plenty of good christian reasons.
|
231 |
+
- it can serve as a signature. if this code is found in a file, it proves i wrote it. (they wont dare steal my code like i stole theirs)
|
232 |
+
- it can be accessed by a debug session to invoke a secret trap door that wipes the server and causes $1M of damages (they wont dare fire me)
|
233 |
+
- it can be called by an external executable to activate a virus (that'll stop 'em laughing at me and my awkward lechering)
|
234 |
+
--- 2609930
|
235 |
+
>>2609927
|
236 |
+
The compiler wouldn't optimize put those last two
|
237 |
+
--- 2609932
|
238 |
+
man python just killed my ability to code well
|
239 |
+
like why would i even expect this to work
|
240 |
+
--- 2609964
|
241 |
+
>>2609581
|
242 |
+
The dealers aren’t selling them because they’re out of stock. You’re also forgetting that this bs didn’t always exist, they /were/ available for a long while at RRP.
|
243 |
+
--- 2610012
|
244 |
+
is this a meme or worth buying if I want to learn to get into fpga development? https://lectronz.com/products/pico-ice-rp2040-plus-lattice-ice40up5k-fpga
|
245 |
+
whats the use case for fpga anyway low latency audio stuff?
|
246 |
+
--- 2610091
|
247 |
+
>>2609932
|
248 |
+
because it's supposed to detect truthy/falsy values and not to perform string parsing
|
249 |
+
--- 2610144
|
250 |
+
>>2609758
|
251 |
+
Look at the gcc manual for function attributes.
|
252 |
+
--- 2610145
|
253 |
+
>>2609932
|
254 |
+
>python has C++ like constructors
|
255 |
+
Scripting language, the rabbit hole.
|
256 |
+
--- 2610414
|
257 |
+
Should I do it? I'm going to get the pinecil regardless but everything else?
|
258 |
+
--- 2610435
|
259 |
+
>>2610414
|
260 |
+
What e-store is that?
|
diy/2605817.txt
CHANGED
@@ -71,3 +71,5 @@ depends where you live but around here if there's no motor on it and it's not la
|
|
71 |
--- 2609421
|
72 |
>>2608219
|
73 |
Very nice, especially interested in that little two sheet dory
|
|
|
|
|
|
71 |
--- 2609421
|
72 |
>>2608219
|
73 |
Very nice, especially interested in that little two sheet dory
|
74 |
+
--- 2610175
|
75 |
+
not op but this is my first time on /diy/ and I instantly find all the resources I needed for a summer project, thanks anons.
|
diy/2606350.txt
CHANGED
@@ -138,3 +138,41 @@ In Europe it's pushed by the water pressure over the trap.
|
|
138 |
--- 2609789
|
139 |
>>2609244
|
140 |
Bigger American shits, this thread is gross, nasty toilet, gross nails…. Just bad DIY….
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
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|
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|
|
|
138 |
--- 2609789
|
139 |
>>2609244
|
140 |
Bigger American shits, this thread is gross, nasty toilet, gross nails…. Just bad DIY….
|
141 |
+
--- 2609942
|
142 |
+
Why the FUCK is that shit pipe horizontal.
|
143 |
+
I wouldn't. I wouldn't install that, if you paid me, on ethical grounds.
|
144 |
+
Cause when the seal fails, you get shit water in the room.
|
145 |
+
No this is bad design. Gravity fed pipes should be oriented with the pull off gravity
|
146 |
+
I don't like it
|
147 |
+
--- 2609946
|
148 |
+
>>2609942
|
149 |
+
that was my first thought as well
|
150 |
+
i just don't understand what the true intention for that toilet was, i can only assume it's broken which is why it doesn't point down
|
151 |
+
--- 2609950
|
152 |
+
>>2609946
|
153 |
+
Betcha somebody put a toilet where a sink went, and didn't run a new closet flange to avoid ripping floor up. Unless the europoors are doing this regularly.
|
154 |
+
|
155 |
+
I'm not enjoying the shit talk on wax rings either here. There's a reason they're used. You get inconsistent gaps between the bowl and flange, so rubber can be hit or miss, gotta have shims and shit with it. Rubber dries out and gotta be lined up right to seal.
|
156 |
+
With wax you just plop that shit on there, and even if the toilet moves around a bit it still seals, with the weight of the toilet on it, and Johnny bolts holding it down.
|
157 |
+
|
158 |
+
No op, get rid of that abomination of a toilet, rip up the floor, install a proper closet flange, then wax ring, then a real toilet.
|
159 |
+
That's garbage and it's gotta go.
|
160 |
+
Though, if you really wanted to be a nigger about it, if it's not lining up right, a fernco fitting would be alright.
|
161 |
+
Caulk,
|
162 |
+
Is a temporary solution to a long term problem. Always.
|
163 |
+
Never rely on it. You'll be redoing that seem constantly.
|
164 |
+
Unbolt toilet, move away from elbow, install fernco, move it back, tighten hose clamps, rebolt toilet.
|
165 |
+
Could glue the seam too. But we already know how well glue works here. It didn't. Wax might make more sense. But there's a rubber fitting for when that fails too.
|
166 |
+
|
167 |
+
The first thing is the right way though. And you should spend the $$$ to do that if you can.
|
168 |
+
I've done the cheap "ahhhh I can make this work!" With plumbing and it'll blow up in your face 90% of the time. Do it right, take the time, do the work, buy NEW fittings (just do it) and be done with it for the next 30 years.
|
169 |
+
--- 2610008
|
170 |
+
>>2606967
|
171 |
+
>>2607670
|
172 |
+
>>2609244
|
173 |
+
>>2609950
|
174 |
+
>poo geysers
|
175 |
+
>deadly poo gases
|
176 |
+
>greasy american poo clogging up toilets
|
177 |
+
>poo blowing up in your face
|
178 |
+
maybe the indians had the right idea by just shitting on the street, saves a whole lot of hassle.
|
diy/2606690.txt
CHANGED
@@ -248,3 +248,14 @@ It's so selfish to kill someone else just because you hate yourself
|
|
248 |
--- 2609675
|
249 |
>>2609640
|
250 |
Gives OT to needy linemen too.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
248 |
--- 2609675
|
249 |
>>2609640
|
250 |
Gives OT to needy linemen too.
|
251 |
+
--- 2610019
|
252 |
+
>>2608792
|
253 |
+
>he doesn't like my driving
|
254 |
+
should've told him he could walk instead
|
255 |
+
--- 2610060
|
256 |
+
>>2608780
|
257 |
+
im incredibly autistic and used to be the type of anon that would just walk into someones space without knocking
|
258 |
+
|
259 |
+
I didn't realize it was a problem until I overheard someone talking about how annoying it was that i would bother them while working without even knocking to get their attention first.
|
260 |
+
|
261 |
+
Honestly thank you for teaching the guy to knock first, because if nobody HAD taught him, he might have been pissing a bunch of people off that didnt have the heart to say anything
|
diy/2606718.txt
CHANGED
@@ -1583,3 +1583,330 @@ jigsaw*
|
|
1583 |
Don't heat anything, and cut through it like cheese.
|
1584 |
|
1585 |
Not shitty cheese. Aged cheese, like a parmesan reggiano or vintage gouda.
|
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|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
1583 |
Don't heat anything, and cut through it like cheese.
|
1584 |
|
1585 |
Not shitty cheese. Aged cheese, like a parmesan reggiano or vintage gouda.
|
1586 |
+
--- 2609931
|
1587 |
+
>>2608144
|
1588 |
+
>>2608150
|
1589 |
+
Gonna have some meme-wall for breakfast.
|
1590 |
+
--- 2609955
|
1591 |
+
printing my first big(1744 0.05mm layers) thing on my halot one and i'm literally sweating from anxiety with face glued to the cover like a child to a fishtank.
|
1592 |
+
--- 2609956
|
1593 |
+
>>2609955
|
1594 |
+
At least it won't take long.
|
1595 |
+
That's one of the nice ones with resin printing for sure, the speed with monochrome LCD printers is just awesome.
|
1596 |
+
|
1597 |
+
Depending on your resin, I'm betting that's only a 1 - 2 hour print.
|
1598 |
+
--- 2609958
|
1599 |
+
>>2609956
|
1600 |
+
>1 - 2 hour print.
|
1601 |
+
Halot one is, for some reason, fucking slow and that print will take 8 hours.
|
1602 |
+
--- 2609959
|
1603 |
+
>>2609418
|
1604 |
+
kek, I just did a similar thing, 608 bearings are 22 mm wide, I accidentally made the holes for them 21 mm, only figured this out after I finished the second print, wasted time and plastic sucks
|
1605 |
+
--- 2609962
|
1606 |
+
>>2609418
|
1607 |
+
>24-sided shape
|
1608 |
+
there's your problem. use an actual cad problem that can make circles and output high resolution stls
|
1609 |
+
--- 2609966
|
1610 |
+
>>2609958
|
1611 |
+
You have tuning to do.
|
1612 |
+
A Halot-One can manage < 10s total per layer at 0.05mm reliably, < 5s with fast resins, small prints, or thinner layers.
|
1613 |
+
I'd have called 4 hours slow, 8 hours is horrifying.
|
1614 |
+
--- 2609967
|
1615 |
+
>>2609448
|
1616 |
+
>Kingroon KP3S
|
1617 |
+
I have the KP3S S1 Pro, paid 205€ with the extra PEI sheet.
|
1618 |
+
It's my most used printer now, i have sold a Prusa Mini+ and a decked out Ender3.
|
1619 |
+
Keeping my large Tronxy X5SA Pro for now, but it's rarely used.
|
1620 |
+
--- 2609970
|
1621 |
+
>>2609962
|
1622 |
+
I know, I shoulda used OpenSCAD but I was lazy. As someone who is currently using Sketchup, Plasticity looks really damn nice, model history and parametric features be damned. But I'll try me some FreeCAD forks before shelling out 100 americanos. And maybe that project that does OpenSCAD style parametric programming atop the core of FreeCAD, that sounds fun.
|
1623 |
+
--- 2609972
|
1624 |
+
Cracked two mirrors in a week printing abs at 110C bed, 60C chamber and PVP spray 3d glue. (similar to uniqueprint supergoop but self sourced with 4$ worth of alcohol and medical povidone)
|
1625 |
+
ABS adhesion is great but probably too much. Or it might the size issue. Im printing large stuff on 330x330 bed. Has no issues on 235x235 bed earlier.
|
1626 |
+
I still have one mirror left so would try to reapply this stuff more and after every print and not to use forced air cooling after the print.
|
1627 |
+
Any alternatives? PEI, gluestick, hairspray - all trash, got lifting corners.
|
1628 |
+
--- 2609973
|
1629 |
+
>>2609972
|
1630 |
+
brim
|
1631 |
+
--- 2609974
|
1632 |
+
Brim is pita to remove. I use tabs on a corners, mostly on the edges of the bed where temp is low.
|
1633 |
+
--- 2609975
|
1634 |
+
>>2609970
|
1635 |
+
Sounds like you're beating around the real-software bush.
|
1636 |
+
Have you tried Fusion 360? 100% free to use, real CAD with real tools.
|
1637 |
+
Makes a lot of shit easier and faster than trying to do it in CAD for programmers (SCAD), CAD for Architects (Sketchup), or CAD for Artists (Plasticity).
|
1638 |
+
|
1639 |
+
Why not spend use CAD that's made for CAD?
|
1640 |
+
--- 2609976
|
1641 |
+
>>2609966
|
1642 |
+
yes, but i'm kinda afraid of losing detail or having huge, very visible layers. i have another big print in mind, so i will tweak things around.
|
1643 |
+
--- 2609994
|
1644 |
+
>>2609975
|
1645 |
+
>Have you tried Fusion 360? 100% free to use, real CAD with real tools.
|
1646 |
+
It's not free as in freedom.
|
1647 |
+
|
1648 |
+
>CAD for architects
|
1649 |
+
more like CAD for schoolkids
|
1650 |
+
--- 2609996
|
1651 |
+
>>2609975
|
1652 |
+
>real CAD with real tools
|
1653 |
+
fusion360 is not 'real' cad
|
1654 |
+
fusion360 is not free software (TM)
|
1655 |
+
fusion 360 is babby's first PLM software, for troglodytes and cabinetmakers. it's the de facto norm for sharing a lot of open-source hobbyist projects, due to the fact that it's easy to acquire because the company promotes it for this purpose. Like other babby software, it has shit performance, the solver is unreliable, the parameters are an afterthought, and also it sucks.
|
1656 |
+
cad for artists is Alias btw.
|
1657 |
+
--- 2610004
|
1658 |
+
>>2609931
|
1659 |
+
|
1660 |
+
I ended up printing a test piece to try out tools to hang
|
1661 |
+
--- 2610021
|
1662 |
+
>>2609967
|
1663 |
+
I think im also getting the KP3S S1 PRO also whats the PEI sheet for and are there any other things I should get from their store? I would like to only place on order
|
1664 |
+
--- 2610026
|
1665 |
+
>>2610021
|
1666 |
+
If their PLA is less than what you pay at Amazon, you might get a few spools, but usually it isn't worth it. Better hunt at Amazon or locally. I would get nothing further.
|
1667 |
+
https://youtu.be/NaYJMz1dapE?t=98 [Embed]
|
1668 |
+
Guy talks about different surfaces and their pros and cons. You want the PEI sheet, you print on it, take it off and bend it to get your printed part off. But the glass plate (particularly the clean back side) has it's uses too.
|
1669 |
+
--- 2610036
|
1670 |
+
>>2610026
|
1671 |
+
No amazon where I live and thanks for the video. Also I was more wondering about stuff like their ABL and silicone socks they have in their shop
|
1672 |
+
--- 2610040
|
1673 |
+
>>2610036
|
1674 |
+
I don't use a silicone sock.
|
1675 |
+
The ABL sensor makes sense if your bed is all over the place, but in that case you can simply stick the magnetic sticker to the glass plate, instead directly to the bed.
|
1676 |
+
I wouldn't, it's just not worth the hassle. Use the old paper calibration method, it's a tiny printer and works fine.
|
1677 |
+
--- 2610044
|
1678 |
+
Hey /3dpg/, I got into the hobby a few months ago and I'm looking to get my first printer. I've narrowed it down to K1, X1C, or mk4. I'm on the fence about the closed environment of the X1C, but the K1 and mk4 are still new to the market.
|
1679 |
+
--- 2610048
|
1680 |
+
>>2610040
|
1681 |
+
I see im just wondering because I dont know what all that stuff is good for I also saw thers a new KP3S Pro V2 but it costs quite a bit more then the others
|
1682 |
+
--- 2610050
|
1683 |
+
>>2610048
|
1684 |
+
>KP3S Pro V2
|
1685 |
+
Let me look it up real quick, first time i heard about it.
|
1686 |
+
--- 2610052
|
1687 |
+
>>2610048
|
1688 |
+
Ok, this is what i see:
|
1689 |
+
* sold out
|
1690 |
+
* inductive ABL sensor, if you want one, then a hall sensor based BL-Touch, because then you can switch without recalibration between different height surfaces, like glass, PEI and so on. But it's a gimmick in such a small printer anyway
|
1691 |
+
* different extruder, i don't see anything wrong with the titan clone
|
1692 |
+
* different mainboard, uses Klipper instead of Marlin for speed. Might be important if you have deadlines to meet and depend on faster print times for prototyping
|
1693 |
+
|
1694 |
+
Anyway, sold out, so there you have it.
|
1695 |
+
If you order from their homepage, try the code CG, could get you a further 10% if it's still valid.
|
1696 |
+
--- 2610056
|
1697 |
+
Is there anything useful one can print? Outside of useless trinkets and very occasionally replacement parts, I'm not really sure what I can use my printer for.
|
1698 |
+
--- 2610062
|
1699 |
+
>>2610056
|
1700 |
+
You can print a butt plug or penis ring (however, there are physical limits to how fine a structure you can print).
|
1701 |
+
--- 2610073
|
1702 |
+
>>2610056
|
1703 |
+
you can print more printers
|
1704 |
+
--- 2610078
|
1705 |
+
>>2610052
|
1706 |
+
Yeah its pretty new and the first batch is gone but from reading that I think im just gonna stick to the pro s1 ty anon
|
1707 |
+
--- 2610081
|
1708 |
+
>>2610078
|
1709 |
+
That's what i would do too.
|
1710 |
+
Next best printer, i think, is the Sovol SV06. You might look into it, if you get a good price, but i guess it's about $100 or so more, which isn't worth it i think.
|
1711 |
+
--- 2610095
|
1712 |
+
>>2610056
|
1713 |
+
Replacement remote control battery covers.
|
1714 |
+
--- 2610103
|
1715 |
+
>>2609970
|
1716 |
+
>Plasticity looks really damn nice, model history and parametric features be damned
|
1717 |
+
Probably coming though. And you can already model dimensional accurate things. It's pretty good as long as you don't go full retard with complex mechanical stuff. I would say it's enough for most static prints.
|
1718 |
+
--- 2610162
|
1719 |
+
>>2609426
|
1720 |
+
It's likely the priming line, or one of the other 'customs'. There's a patch to [Prusa]Slic3r to allow you to turn off displaying 'custom' and have it removed from consideration in the legend scale:
|
1721 |
+
https://github.com/montylab3d/PrusaSlicer/commit/fbc4da899153064fa7e0ce8d248a6f14e89c1a83
|
1722 |
+
--- 2610174
|
1723 |
+
>>2609418
|
1724 |
+
how in the fuck did a print that small take that long are you printing in fucking nanoites
|
1725 |
+
--- 2610183
|
1726 |
+
>>2609418
|
1727 |
+
Anything I have to measure and model myself I always make a test fit print that take minimal time as needed instead of waiting a day.
|
1728 |
+
--- 2610185
|
1729 |
+
>>2609645
|
1730 |
+
it's called offset (inset/outset), whatever the program. you might have to do it on a sketch layer before extruding, or offset a larger U to punch your hole.
|
1731 |
+
--- 2610190
|
1732 |
+
>>2610103
|
1733 |
+
>Probably coming though
|
1734 |
+
Well it is based on a geometry kernel that's used by professional CAD software, so I'd imagine it would be possible. But likely coming in a later major patch, which I'd need to buy seperately.
|
1735 |
+
|
1736 |
+
>It's pretty good as long as you don't go full retard with complex mechanical stuff
|
1737 |
+
The thing is though, I am also designing a somewhat complex electromechanical CAD project. I'm using OpenSCAD to ensure dimensional parity between different components, but it's hardly brilliant (no chamfers).
|
1738 |
+
|
1739 |
+
>>2610183
|
1740 |
+
Yeah I shoulda done that this time too.
|
1741 |
+
--- 2610204
|
1742 |
+
>>2610190
|
1743 |
+
>Yeah I shoulda done that this time too.
|
1744 |
+
|
1745 |
+
Well to be honest, I also use to print the models fully and find I made a mistake, since then I learned my lesson.
|
1746 |
+
--- 2610206
|
1747 |
+
not perfect by any means, but I'm still surprised by the level of detail for an FDM printer.
|
1748 |
+
--- 2610208
|
1749 |
+
>>2610062
|
1750 |
+
>3d printed fingerboxes
|
1751 |
+
We need to regulate printers
|
1752 |
+
--- 2610209
|
1753 |
+
>>2610056
|
1754 |
+
you can print organizers for all your 3d printing stuff, and tools and upgrades for your 3d printer
|
1755 |
+
--- 2610210
|
1756 |
+
>>2610206
|
1757 |
+
what printer?
|
1758 |
+
--- 2610222
|
1759 |
+
>>2610210
|
1760 |
+
x1 carbon
|
1761 |
+
--- 2610228
|
1762 |
+
Is there not a market for making super-speed printers (e.g. voron, Annex K3, etc.) and fitting them with tiny nozzles for really detailed prints?
|
1763 |
+
--- 2610230
|
1764 |
+
for regular materials (pla, petg, abs, nylon mostly) with hi flow cht clone nozzles, is there any advantage for a copper or brass heatbock vs aluminum? what about the normal 100k thermistor vs a pt100/1000?
|
1765 |
+
--- 2610235
|
1766 |
+
Friend gave me his ol flashforge finder 2. Just need to get an attachment for it so i can used the large spools if filament i already bought.
|
1767 |
+
--- 2610238
|
1768 |
+
Whats the consensus on the creality k1 vs the bambu? I already have the bambu and love it, but thinking about getting another printer.
|
1769 |
+
--- 2610247
|
1770 |
+
>>2610238
|
1771 |
+
There isn't, there are only about a dozen people in the western hemisphere with their hands on a K1.
|
1772 |
+
It's a brand new printer, and the very few and brief things we've seen of it have been kind of meh, there are no "good" reviews left, and there won't be any remotely long-term reviews for awhile. (Reviewers have been receiving printers over the last week)
|
1773 |
+
|
1774 |
+
Don't get excited for it, there's no comparison between them given the price.
|
1775 |
+
Considering what you get for $600 with a K1 versus $700 for the P1P, the K1 has a smaller build area, steel rods that slow it down compared to a P1P, the P1P bed is mains voltage instead of 24v so it heats much faster, Bambu's build quality is notably good while Creality has a long-standing reputation for poor quality choices and poor QC.
|
1776 |
+
|
1777 |
+
The price difference right now is ~4 rolls of good filament, not worth it, buy the real thing and ignore the Creality clone.
|
1778 |
+
In a few months, maybe a year, when the K1 is consistently available for ~$500 or less, then it'll be a "real" option.
|
1779 |
+
--- 2610253
|
1780 |
+
>>2610247
|
1781 |
+
> when the K1 is consistently available for ~$500 or less, then it'll be a "real" option.
|
1782 |
+
Wonder how upgradable it will be by then? Or will the hobby community just ignore it?
|
1783 |
+
|
1784 |
+
What about mods to Bambu printers, do we have many of them yet?
|
1785 |
+
--- 2610255
|
1786 |
+
>>2610230
|
1787 |
+
Copper conducts heat roughly twice as fast as aluminum, almost four times as fast as brass.
|
1788 |
+
It also has a lower specific heat capacity than either aluminum or brass, so the block heats faster and stays hot with less energy.
|
1789 |
+
Fuck yes an Aluminum or Brass heat block can bottleneck your hotend, if you want flow and you spent the $2 for a CHT clone nozzle, then spend the additional $10 on a copper block.
|
1790 |
+
|
1791 |
+
Thermistor shit is for high temps, you're talking about regular materials, zero incentive to change your thermistor unless you don't like the mounting style you've got or just really LOVE building new firmware.
|
1792 |
+
--- 2610261
|
1793 |
+
>>2610253
|
1794 |
+
Bambu released models of the frame for the P1P, Creality has not for the K1 and haven't stated whether or not they will.
|
1795 |
+
It's a lot easier to design mods for shit when you don't have to bust out the calipers, especially for people who wouldn't know how to use them.
|
1796 |
+
There are 9 million Ender 3 mods, but it's a cheap printer, and the hardware design is totally opensource, easy starting point for mods.
|
1797 |
+
The Ender 3 also had the aluminum extrusion frame, very easy to attach shit to wherever the hell you feel like.
|
1798 |
+
The P1P has the modplate system intended for people to make attachments for.
|
1799 |
+
|
1800 |
+
The K1, from what we've seen so far, doesn't "facilitate" modifications, but that won't stop folks.
|
1801 |
+
It doesn't have to sell like hotcakes to see considerable mods.
|
1802 |
+
|
1803 |
+
Yes, there is already a very active a large modding scene for the Bambu printers: https://thangs.com/search/Bambu
|
1804 |
+
--- 2610270
|
1805 |
+
>>2610056
|
1806 |
+
If you didn't have a use for 3D printing before you got into it then why did you get into it? They're tools. You've essentially bought a drill press with no reason to dill anything. Get a hobby that 3d printing makes 400x better.
|
1807 |
+
|
1808 |
+
I suggest modeling. Alternatively, drone-making and other electromechanical stuff is really fun.
|
1809 |
+
>>2610228
|
1810 |
+
Small nozzles = far lower flow, as area is a function of radius^2. A small radius change is a huge change in area and therefore resistance to flow. Most consider detail to not the in the domain of FDM, and the far lower flow just isn't worth it when most printers are bottlenecked by flow or cooling these days, and not kinematics, vibrations, whatever. There's nothing stopping you from trying it, you'll just print slower.
|
1811 |
+
--- 2610274
|
1812 |
+
>>2610270
|
1813 |
+
>printers are bottlenecked by flow or cooling these days,
|
1814 |
+
Posting this made me realize that if flow isn't your bottleneck, but cooling is there probably isn't any reason not to step down in nozzle size with arachne removing any issues with using extrusion widths 250% of the nozzle size.
|
1815 |
+
--- 2610275
|
1816 |
+
Does anyone have experience with Qidi printers? I'm thinking about getting the X-Smart 3 as my first core xy printer and eventually using it to print the parts I need for a Voron since it's only $450 on Amazon right now.
|
1817 |
+
>>2609448
|
1818 |
+
>>2609967
|
1819 |
+
I have a KP3S Pro that I've modded to basically be the KP3S Pro V2 by putting the linear rail upgrade on the y-axis, klipper, filament spool holder and an LED light. It's extremely good for the price, and just a good printer in general. I also have a Prusa Mini but I think I prefer the KP3S more, especially since it didn't cost $420 like the Mini did. I highly suggest ordering it from Amazon so you don't have to deal with the Chinese customer service, that's my only gripe.
|
1820 |
+
--- 2610297
|
1821 |
+
>>2610274
|
1822 |
+
I think you hit the nail on the head.
|
1823 |
+
The flow we *can* get out of tiny nozzles now is still HEAPS more than it used to be, you can get over 4^3mm/s out of a 0.2mm CHT clone nozzle in a good hotend setup, and that's kind of crazy.
|
1824 |
+
People like Tommy Sandpacker love Arachne because they can step up to 0.6mm and the quality is still "good enough" at much higher flowrates. I say fuck that, Arachne and high-flow nozzles mean I can push waaay faster with small nozzles and retain all of the detail.
|
1825 |
+
I can print as fast with a 0.4mm nozzle now as I could with a 0.6mm nozzle 5 years ago, at way higher levels of detail, it's fucking awesome. New hotend/nozzle tech gives me the flowrate, newer software-side shit like Arachne, Input Shaping, and Pressure/Linear Advance mean I can get stellar quality at those flowrates, fuck it is awesome.
|
1826 |
+
|
1827 |
+
Even my oldest shitbox printers are considerably faster and better than they were when new thanks to all of this.
|
1828 |
+
--- 2610304
|
1829 |
+
alright, I replaced the crappy flexie coupler with a spacer, thrust bearing and solid coupler, so far binding doesn't seem to be an issue. I have a 2mm lead screw on the way, the stock one is okay but has bad spots.
|
1830 |
+
--- 2610308
|
1831 |
+
>>2610255
|
1832 |
+
mucho thanko. I guess that'll be a yea on the copper, nay on pt. might get one of those threaded thermistors, seems like it would be more accurate than shoving a bulb in an open hole. probably doesn't make any difference though I bet.
|
1833 |
+
--- 2610309
|
1834 |
+
>>2610308
|
1835 |
+
Threaded are easier, the little cylinders that look like a skinny heater cartridge are my favorites, but performance-wise the differences are dominated by other factors.
|
1836 |
+
--- 2610313
|
1837 |
+
>>2610304
|
1838 |
+
Buy an oldham coupler while you're at it. Or a wobblex if you don't like money.
|
1839 |
+
--- 2610314
|
1840 |
+
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iJGPMMMn8VU [Embed]
|
1841 |
+
check this out
|
1842 |
+
--- 2610315
|
1843 |
+
>>2610309
|
1844 |
+
yeah the little 3mm ones. might be a good choice too. speaking of, kinda sucks no one seems to make a clamp style mk8 block with side screws other than microswiss. seems like it would be more efficient in heating since it would have 90+% contact with the heater vs the probably 20% the set screw style does. it's only 20 bucks, but the el chinkos are almost half that and 50% cheaper is 50% cheaper any way to cut it.
|
1845 |
+
--- 2610319
|
1846 |
+
>>2610304
|
1847 |
+
defiantly got some improvement in the layers, and the elephant foot is finely gone.
|
1848 |
+
--- 2610321
|
1849 |
+
>>2610315
|
1850 |
+
If you're so concerned about performance (A valid pursuit) then you might as well buy some high temperature thermal paste, no? Slice makes some, but who wants to support slice. Apparently it makes a significant difference applied to the heatbreak, just be very very very careful not to get it inside. I imagine it'd mitigate the contact area concerns you have with the heater cartidge, too.
|
1851 |
+
--- 2610324
|
1852 |
+
>>2610247
|
1853 |
+
I went from the ender 3 to this bambu and its night and day. Figured I would just get another bambu, but was curious as to whether or not creality felt the fire under their ass or not. The k1 has some cool features, but yeah im probably better off with another bambu.
|
1854 |
+
--- 2610326
|
1855 |
+
>>2610313
|
1856 |
+
I did get an oldham coupler, but I cant mount it yet, the nut sits in a recessed area and will have to be milled out some to accommodate the oldham coupler or I'll have to make a spacer to sit in the recessed area.
|
1857 |
+
--- 2610334
|
1858 |
+
>>2610326
|
1859 |
+
Post pictures? Are you hanging the gantry from the nut or is the gantry resting on the nut? I'd also suggest a POM leadscrew nut -- they wear less quickly than brass, make less noise, and have less friction. With an oldham coupler and POM nut my ender 3 pro's gantry slides down when I rest my hand on it, with a stock leadscrew and shaft coupler. Very annoying but good for z-banding.
|
1860 |
+
--- 2610337
|
1861 |
+
>>2610326
|
1862 |
+
You're supposed to print your problems away anon, just print an oldham that fits, or redesign and then print everything else to fit your oldham, whatever it takes, so long as it takes printing.
|
1863 |
+
--- 2610366
|
1864 |
+
>>2610334
|
1865 |
+
>>2610337
|
1866 |
+
the gantry is hanging from the nut, that block between the gantry and rails is the flaw in the kp3s pro design, if it was 3mm thicker then standard couplers would fit, I might have clearance to mount the oldham and nut under the block. if not then I'll clearance out that recess and mount it on top.
|
1867 |
+
--- 2610369
|
1868 |
+
>>2610324
|
1869 |
+
I'm beginning to feel like at the price point Creality has hit here, they're doing more to cannibalize sales of printers *other* than the P1P.
|
1870 |
+
Compare the $600 K1 to the $430 Ender 3 S1 Pro or $450 (previously $560) Ender 5 S1, a $430-$460 Prusa Mini, the now $650-$900 Prusa MK3S+, a ludicrous $670 for the AnkerMake M5, or the $500 da Vinci 1.0 Pro.
|
1871 |
+
I think the K1 is a poor competitor to the P1P, but I think it could prove to be far better than a lot of other stuff in the $500-$700 range and possibly motivate a lot of buyers with $400-$500 price targets to stretch their budgets.
|
1872 |
+
--- 2610370
|
1873 |
+
>>2610366
|
1874 |
+
I hate it, sorry about the rice burns.
|
1875 |
+
--- 2610376
|
1876 |
+
>>2610261
|
1877 |
+
I was assuming the K1 models get made available. Even if they're not, someone will probably make them and upload them so nobody else has to reinvent the wheel.
|
1878 |
+
|
1879 |
+
The main thing I care about is Bambu's proprietary hot-end cartridge system (maybe the K1 also does this idk), but it looks like people are probably already using aftermarket hot-ends for it. The other thing is the less transparent firmware setup, but
|
1880 |
+
|
1881 |
+
>>2610270
|
1882 |
+
>Small nozzles = far lower flow, as area is a function of radius^2
|
1883 |
+
I think it's even worse than that, something about friction and shear force, wouldn't be surprised to see it with a 3rd or 4th power. That's why you use those high-force direct extruders people use for speedboating. Like the worm-gear extruder used by the K3.
|
1884 |
+
You'd probably be doing this for smaller or less-structural models, where thick walls and high infill rates won't be there to drag your print time through the roof.
|
1885 |
+
--- 2610391
|
1886 |
+
>>2610321
|
1887 |
+
upon closer inspection, those aren't the side screw holes on the ms block, those are just set screws for a cartridge thermistor. are those really even necessary for the MK-8? they make nozzle changes easier by keeping the block from rotating, but otherwise do they even serve a purpose?
|
1888 |
+
--- 2610392
|
1889 |
+
>>2610321
|
1890 |
+
the side screws I mean
|
1891 |
+
--- 2610399
|
1892 |
+
>>2610304
|
1893 |
+
That looks phenomenally less shitty than it did before .Well done.
|
1894 |
+
--- 2610405
|
1895 |
+
if I bore out a recess for the thrust bearing, then I will just have enough clearance to mount the oldham and nut under the block.
|
1896 |
+
--- 2610407
|
1897 |
+
>>2610366
|
1898 |
+
I've heard it's better to hang the gantry from the nut. Something to do with tolerance causing backlash causing zbanding. I've never directly compared hanging from vs resting on the nut and oldham, though.
|
1899 |
+
>>2610376
|
1900 |
+
The K3 looks very interesting, as does its extruder. Mellow's cannon is another worm gear extruder but it performs poorly according to cnckitchen's tests. I wonder how it compares to the VzBot 235 or 330. Vez has done some videos printing at 2000mm/s before. 2m/s.
|
1901 |
+
>>2610392
|
1902 |
+
That's all it does, yes. Pretty convenient, though contributes to heat creep. Phaetus's DropEffect XG is the only hotend I know of that doesn't thanks to its unique construction.
|
1903 |
+
--- 2610422
|
1904 |
+
>>2610275
|
1905 |
+
|
1906 |
+
So, a youtuber I watch did a live stream of an unboxing and impressions, honestly it seemed.. interesting I didn't fully watch it.
|
1907 |
+
|
1908 |
+
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I0rIy00VaGg&ab_channel=NERO3D [Embed]
|
1909 |
+
--- 2610436
|
1910 |
+
>>2610275
|
1911 |
+
>I have a KP3S Pro that I've modded to basically be the KP3S Pro V2
|
1912 |
+
How much did you pay in total with all the mods because if its more then the V2 I might just get the V2 and sadly no amazon here
|
diy/2606884.txt
CHANGED
@@ -87,3 +87,23 @@ Look simple question. It’s been a few days right? If you still have this, you
|
|
87 |
--- 2608511
|
88 |
>>2608485
|
89 |
kek
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
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|
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|
|
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|
87 |
--- 2608511
|
88 |
>>2608485
|
89 |
kek
|
90 |
+
--- 2609947
|
91 |
+
>>2606884 (OP)
|
92 |
+
Pretty much only as a seed starter. If you're into terrariums you can propagate moss in it.
|
93 |
+
It's such thin plastic you can't even use it as a dish to bring food to work, as it would just bend and spill your food.
|
94 |
+
--- 2610043
|
95 |
+
>>2609947
|
96 |
+
Literally designed for and came with an appropriatly sized load of prepared food in it
|
97 |
+
|
98 |
+
>you can't even use it as a dish
|
99 |
+
--- 2610433
|
100 |
+
>>2606884 (OP)
|
101 |
+
>can i do something with this plastic thing
|
102 |
+
I ask that myself every day yet I keep £D printing
|
103 |
+
--- 2610434
|
104 |
+
>>2610433
|
105 |
+
fuck
|
106 |
+
3D
|
107 |
+
you know what I meant
|
108 |
+
|
109 |
+
ahhh shit now the clever anons can tell what timezone I'm from and make fun of me or something
|
diy/2607015.txt
CHANGED
@@ -327,3 +327,118 @@ You can use steel too
|
|
327 |
>>2609635
|
328 |
>You cant make a pure stone floor without also having a gorillion columns or arches like the coliseum or the
|
329 |
You can do it with gothic arch easy. Next time you get to Europe take a trip to countryside instead of clubing and stuffing your face in Michelin restaurants. Visit castles and cathedrals that are made 95% out of stone with stone walls supporting stone ceilings.
|
|
|
|
|
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|
|
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|
|
|
|
327 |
>>2609635
|
328 |
>You cant make a pure stone floor without also having a gorillion columns or arches like the coliseum or the
|
329 |
You can do it with gothic arch easy. Next time you get to Europe take a trip to countryside instead of clubing and stuffing your face in Michelin restaurants. Visit castles and cathedrals that are made 95% out of stone with stone walls supporting stone ceilings.
|
330 |
+
--- 2609925
|
331 |
+
>>2607015 (OP)
|
332 |
+
|
333 |
+
It's all masonry and wood but It really depend by the locations.
|
334 |
+
|
335 |
+
To make bricks you need to have clay and wood to fire it
|
336 |
+
To make wooden floors and to make the roofs you need large logs.
|
337 |
+
You already need lot of wood to make mortar, construct scafoldings, ecc.
|
338 |
+
|
339 |
+
Talking about palaces, walls are preferibily made of bricks, and if bricks are lacking you can go for stone. To make floors you want to use wood, but if you have no wood available you can go for bricks to make pavilion vaults, pavilion head lunette vaults, cross waults (expecially for basements) and other solutions. You don't really want to make vaults with stone and the roof must be done in wood. Historically you cannot really transport building materials, so you have to use what you have.
|
340 |
+
|
341 |
+
In my area, walls are made of stone, floors are made of bricks vaults, roofs are made of wood and covered with realy thin stone slabs. Some imstances of wood flooring are present. Most of the wood was recovered from ships. Just to give you an idea, you can cover a quite large room (8x12m) with a pavilion vault just one brick thick (12-14-cm). Walls need to be thick (about 1 meter, thicker to the ground and tinner on top floos).
|
342 |
+
--- 2609926
|
343 |
+
>>2609909
|
344 |
+
when i visited pernštejn castle all the ceilings were arched
|
345 |
+
apparently a relatively late introduction, can't remember the details but apparently fire safety was the main reason. something about a ceiling converging into a point that works better in case of a fire than a level ceiling
|
346 |
+
maybe the previous flooring was wooden the guide didn't mention or something, i wasn't really interested in medieval construction methods back then i was enjoying the eastern euro cheap life on holiday with my euros
|
347 |
+
one of the most impressive castles i've seen though and i've seen quite a bit
|
348 |
+
got significantly damaged by the eternal swede but it's restored to its prime condition
|
349 |
+
--- 2609929
|
350 |
+
This confuses and infuriates the medieval subsaharan mudhut dweller.
|
351 |
+
--- 2610067
|
352 |
+
>>2609909
|
353 |
+
>You can do it with gothic arch easy
|
354 |
+
Hence gorillion arches and worse, almost all the volume of the buildings will be some transition zone between floors
|
355 |
+
--- 2610132
|
356 |
+
>>2610067
|
357 |
+
the entire point of gothic vaults was to build higher and wider with big windows as opposed to the previous romanesque building style
|
358 |
+
--- 2610142
|
359 |
+
>>2610132
|
360 |
+
>the entire point of gothic vaults was to build higher
|
361 |
+
Hence why all the space is wasted. These cathedrals you smug about dont have second floors, they have a single level and the ceiling is 20 meters up. Thats now way to build a city.
|
362 |
+
And why are you fixated on gothic arches? All arches and domes are based on catenary curves
|
363 |
+
--- 2610150
|
364 |
+
>>2610142
|
365 |
+
>Hence why all the space is wasted. These cathedrals you smug about dont have second floors,
|
366 |
+
based retard
|
367 |
+
--- 2610151
|
368 |
+
>>2610150
|
369 |
+
What the fuck are you trying to say? Cathedrals dont have "floors". They have a single level and then a retardedly tall ceiling based on a catenary curve
|
370 |
+
--- 2610152
|
371 |
+
>>2610151
|
372 |
+
>catenary curve
|
373 |
+
lmao you keep getting more and more retarded the more you post
|
374 |
+
--- 2610153
|
375 |
+
>>2610152
|
376 |
+
You are illiterate
|
377 |
+
--- 2610155
|
378 |
+
>>2610152
|
379 |
+
>Heres your unique architectonic style bro
|
380 |
+
--- 2610156
|
381 |
+
This confuses and scares the american
|
382 |
+
--- 2610157
|
383 |
+
>>2610156
|
384 |
+
Wood?
|
385 |
+
--- 2610158
|
386 |
+
>>2610153
|
387 |
+
>>2610155
|
388 |
+
maybe actually step inside a gothic cathedral instead of making your ignorance painfully obvious
|
389 |
+
great examples of a pointed arch retard
|
390 |
+
--- 2610160
|
391 |
+
>>2610151
|
392 |
+
didn't know a cirlce was a catenary curve
|
393 |
+
you learn something new every day, thanks /diy/
|
394 |
+
--- 2610165
|
395 |
+
>>2610158
|
396 |
+
>maybe actually step inside a gothic cathedral
|
397 |
+
I have, in Germany. I dont see what the fuck you are trying to say.
|
398 |
+
>>2610160
|
399 |
+
>didn't know a cirlce was a catenary curve
|
400 |
+
Architectural arches are not "circles". Their profiles are based on catenary curves.
|
401 |
+
--- 2610166
|
402 |
+
>>2610160
|
403 |
+
>didn't know a cirlce was a catenary curve
|
404 |
+
Catenary curves are 1-dimensional mathematical abstractions. They represent the thinnest possibly arch you can make, in real life any arch you make will have a volume and the catenary must be included within that volume.
|
405 |
+
--- 2610168
|
406 |
+
>>2610165
|
407 |
+
does this look like a "catenary curve", dumbass?
|
408 |
+
--- 2610173
|
409 |
+
>>2610168
|
410 |
+
That arch contains a catenary curve inside, but shaping it like that because its more artistique is a waste of brick and makes it weaker. Still you can fit a catenary curve within that profile.
|
411 |
+
The excess rock does nothing.
|
412 |
+
All structural arches that are not jokes look like pic related in some variation, tall or wide. Fattening these arches with excess material just loads them with weight while adding no strength
|
413 |
+
--- 2610176
|
414 |
+
>>2610173
|
415 |
+
do you always double down on your stupidity when you get btfo?
|
416 |
+
you could at least have skimmed through a wikipedia page before embarrassing yourself
|
417 |
+
--- 2610179
|
418 |
+
>>2610166
|
419 |
+
>A barrel vault, also known as a tunnel vault, wagon vault or wagonhead vault, is an architectural element formed by the extrusion of a single curve (or pair of curves, in the case of a pointed barrel vault) along a given distance. The curves are typically circular in shape, lending a semi-cylindrical appearance to the total design. The barrel vault is the simplest form of a vault: effectively a series of arches placed side by side (i.e., one after another). It is a form of barrel roof.
|
420 |
+
can you show me how to express a circle with hyperbolic functions? thank you
|
421 |
+
--- 2610180
|
422 |
+
>>2610176
|
423 |
+
You are projecting, it is you who is doubling down.
|
424 |
+
I will triple down in my wisdom: Every single arch that does actual support work is shaped like a catenary of some width.
|
425 |
+
Of course it wont collapse if the catenary gets deformed by loading it with some weight in random places that are deviations from an ideal shape, but these deviations just make it weaker by loading it with weight and adding no strength.
|
426 |
+
Basically, an arch based on a circular shape will be weaker than a catenary arch of the same volume, and ultimately the only part of that brick and rock that is doing support is that part within a catenary.
|
427 |
+
The rest of the mass is just dead weight
|
428 |
+
--- 2610182
|
429 |
+
>>2610179
|
430 |
+
Your question is retarded and off topic.
|
431 |
+
You can slap plaster on a catenary arch to give it a semi-circular shape but that isnt doing any support work
|
432 |
+
--- 2610184
|
433 |
+
>>2610180
|
434 |
+
>>2610182
|
435 |
+
thank you for making it clear i can post as much illustrations and citations as i want and you'll just keep ignoring it and repeating your stupidity over and over again
|
436 |
+
arguing with reta- i mean americans is always something else
|
437 |
+
--- 2610191
|
438 |
+
>>2610184
|
439 |
+
>i can post as much illustrations and citations
|
440 |
+
Post whatever you want, its still true that only catenary arches have any strength. Slapping ornamentation and plaster in random places on a catenary arch only makes loads them with more weight while adding no strength.
|
441 |
+
Shit like gothic arches is just an artistic choice taken at the expense of strength, these are basically catenary arches with a retardedly large top that is just dead weight
|
442 |
+
--- 2610195
|
443 |
+
>>2610191
|
444 |
+
are you going to keep moving the goalpost or can you show me where the derivative of a hyperbolic function becomes infinite or undefined?
|
diy/2607075.txt
CHANGED
@@ -137,3 +137,12 @@ I prefer a dedicated crimper
|
|
137 |
--- 2609756
|
138 |
>>2609206
|
139 |
should've bought the Chaddellock
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
137 |
--- 2609756
|
138 |
>>2609206
|
139 |
should've bought the Chaddellock
|
140 |
+
--- 2610035
|
141 |
+
>>2607075 (OP)
|
142 |
+
Thanks OP, you inspired me to pick up one of these here in Australia. Set me back $2.94 AUD.
|
143 |
+
--- 2610410
|
144 |
+
>>2607075 (OP)
|
145 |
+
Contractor reporting in
|
146 |
+
Shockingly useful tool.
|
147 |
+
--- 2610431
|
148 |
+
5 in 1 painters tools are overhyped. Sure they are useful but a speed square absolutely mogs them in versatility.
|
diy/2607084.txt
CHANGED
@@ -168,3 +168,6 @@ These suck compared to these >>2607134 especially the cheap ones in your pic you
|
|
168 |
--- 2609755
|
169 |
>>2608583
|
170 |
congrats
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
168 |
--- 2609755
|
169 |
>>2608583
|
170 |
congrats
|
171 |
+
--- 2610059
|
172 |
+
>>2607090
|
173 |
+
I have a rule for Torx: When I think the screwdriver/bit fits, I still try one size bigger.
|
diy/2607354.txt
CHANGED
@@ -376,3 +376,103 @@ Yeah, 8w will work local repeaters fine. I hit St. George Utah from Las Vegas us
|
|
376 |
All that said, it doesn't matter, because HF shits all over uhf/vhf and baomemes are a joke.
|
377 |
--- 2609912
|
378 |
Thought this was a neat pic of the antennas. No filters or anything.
|
|
|
|
|
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|
|
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|
376 |
All that said, it doesn't matter, because HF shits all over uhf/vhf and baomemes are a joke.
|
377 |
--- 2609912
|
378 |
Thought this was a neat pic of the antennas. No filters or anything.
|
379 |
+
--- 2609924
|
380 |
+
>>2609775
|
381 |
+
How far up do you live? You cannot sneak a random vertical wire outside your window?
|
382 |
+
--- 2609961
|
383 |
+
>>2609775
|
384 |
+
Can you get access to the roof? A roof mounted antenna does not have to be visible from the ground.
|
385 |
+
--- 2609977
|
386 |
+
>>2609961
|
387 |
+
How do I run the coax down to my condo?
|
388 |
+
--- 2609981
|
389 |
+
>>2609977
|
390 |
+
There are usually conduits for such things, such as for normal TV antennas on the roof, water and electricity.
|
391 |
+
--- 2609983
|
392 |
+
How many of you fat fucks have caused more damage than help trying to "help out."
|
393 |
+
--- 2609987
|
394 |
+
>>2609983
|
395 |
+
How does someone keying up their radio and calling 911 cause any damage?
|
396 |
+
--- 2609990
|
397 |
+
>>2609987
|
398 |
+
I guess you are new here. >>2609983 is pasta that appears in nearly all of these threads. I suspect it is teh same dude who is soooo concerned that /ham/ operators are obese and in dire health. This is probably some kind of fetishism, I just don't know which one.
|
399 |
+
--- 2610001
|
400 |
+
>>2609983
|
401 |
+
I intentionally transmit over public safety frequencies
|
402 |
+
--- 2610007
|
403 |
+
>>2609990
|
404 |
+
>/ham/ operators are obese and in dire health
|
405 |
+
You all are. Only one of you has proven otherwise.
|
406 |
+
--- 2610011
|
407 |
+
>>2610007
|
408 |
+
This makes absolutely no sense, especially as you break down and confess it has been proven otherwise. Are we being invaded by /k/?
|
409 |
+
--- 2610018
|
410 |
+
>>2610011
|
411 |
+
Nah, they are regular tourists though. That guy is too dumb and lazy to pass a multiple choice test. In addition, he unable to be anything but a complete sperg around other humans, so he shit posts here and elsewhere for attention.
|
412 |
+
--- 2610038
|
413 |
+
>>2609787
|
414 |
+
>>2609788
|
415 |
+
>>2609924
|
416 |
+
I live on the 12th floor out of 15 and it's a modern building so the windows open like an inch but my place freaks out if anything hangs out the windows because they fine people for hanging flags and shit.
|
417 |
+
|
418 |
+
I could probably droop a wire out the window to dangle downward but I was hoping for something permanent since I'm going to be here for another few years at least
|
419 |
+
|
420 |
+
>>2609961
|
421 |
+
nope, it's locked plus it's a far distance from the roof to my window anyway
|
422 |
+
|
423 |
+
>>2609977
|
424 |
+
why are you pretending to be me
|
425 |
+
--- 2610065
|
426 |
+
>>2607354 (OP)
|
427 |
+
Does anyone have a list of HF freq they listen to?
|
428 |
+
I found what amounts to the Chirp equivalent for the IC-7300.
|
429 |
+
Thought I'd throw in some frequencies - just tried saving out of band and those work too, so some .mil freqs would be fun
|
430 |
+
--- 2610105
|
431 |
+
>>2610065
|
432 |
+
You just need to scan around the band, bro. Use the waterfall if you have one.
|
433 |
+
--- 2610107
|
434 |
+
>>2610065
|
435 |
+
Go dig around hfunderground, you'll likely find what you're looking for there
|
436 |
+
--- 2610123
|
437 |
+
>>2610065
|
438 |
+
https://www.df8ry.de/htmlen/home/%F0%9F%8F%A1welcome.htm
|
439 |
+
--- 2610161
|
440 |
+
>>2609895
|
441 |
+
>HF shits all over uhf/vhf and baomemes are a joke
|
442 |
+
Indeed, which is why I'm looking for something that can actually get me on the air, plus they aren't eight real watts
|
443 |
+
--- 2610194
|
444 |
+
>>2610038
|
445 |
+
>not allowed to open a wi dow more than an inch
|
446 |
+
Get out of there, or do you like being a cuck?
|
447 |
+
--- 2610199
|
448 |
+
>>2610188
|
449 |
+
Cute. Post rig and antennas with timestamp as well. Or did you just pull someone else's license?
|
450 |
+
--- 2610231
|
451 |
+
>>2610194
|
452 |
+
>why doesnt everybody just live in the basement like me? adults r so stoopid!
|
453 |
+
(You)
|
454 |
+
--- 2610233
|
455 |
+
>>2610105
|
456 |
+
>>2610107
|
457 |
+
>>2610123
|
458 |
+
I've made some progress, but my bigger hangup is how poor the IC-7300 'scan' feature is. It just goes through each memory channel for a few seconds. If you want to stop, you have to do so.
|
459 |
+
In contrast, I was expecting a VHF style scan where it flies through channels until it hears something and stops.
|
460 |
+
--- 2610234
|
461 |
+
>>2610233
|
462 |
+
I found a csv in a /skyking/ thread that kills it
|
463 |
+
>https://pastebin.com/nRaDXdZN
|
464 |
+
--- 2610236
|
465 |
+
>>2610038
|
466 |
+
Hope you have a tuner. Have a end-fed half wave antenna? You can let it hang out the window. Along the same lines, you can get thin wire and put it on a 49:1 unun, and let it hang outside the window. Along the same lines, hang the wire all along the wall closest to the outside. You'll end up with doable, but bad results doing this.
|
467 |
+
--- 2610403
|
468 |
+
>>2610234
|
469 |
+
Nice. Thanks for sharing it.
|
470 |
+
--- 2610412
|
471 |
+
>>2610236
|
472 |
+
>Along the same lines
|
473 |
+
>Along the same lines
|
474 |
+
>Along the same lines
|
475 |
+
You need to keep you autism in check.
|
476 |
+
--- 2610424
|
477 |
+
>>2610011
|
478 |
+
The comm general on /k/ is much better than /diy/'s general.
|
diy/2607396.txt
CHANGED
@@ -93,3 +93,15 @@ Give them back Jamal.
|
|
93 |
--- 2609690
|
94 |
>>2609626
|
95 |
put it in VIX
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
93 |
--- 2609690
|
94 |
>>2609626
|
95 |
put it in VIX
|
96 |
+
--- 2609953
|
97 |
+
>>2608463
|
98 |
+
Good tyres, road these over the sharpest of lava rocks all day long
|
99 |
+
--- 2609957
|
100 |
+
>>2608415
|
101 |
+
The only intelligent answer. Hoarding is for losers, even the Bible says so.
|
102 |
+
--- 2609971
|
103 |
+
>>2609953
|
104 |
+
is this iceland?
|
105 |
+
--- 2610045
|
106 |
+
>>2609971
|
107 |
+
Yes, I recommend riding to maelifell picrel
|
diy/2607485.txt
CHANGED
@@ -136,3 +136,58 @@ your options are to
|
|
136 |
the problem is that the ready mix concrete already has aggregate in the form of some 9-11 stone. you can add a larger stone to the concrete to fill space, but not smaller because it will weaken the mixture. road base is classified as an unwashed 4-11 stone. repurposed asphalt is not ideal for this but will work because asphalt is rock+tar. the tar will weaken the structure because it is basically rubber "chips". this will prevent the cement from working. however in road base this is fine because the properties of the rock are all you are looking for. in addition the asphalt that is normally placed on top would only benefit from more tar/oil to bond to.
|
137 |
|
138 |
if it is crushed concrete that is a much better option because the cement in the concrete will continue to react with water and help fuse the base together, otherwise it is just rock.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
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|
136 |
the problem is that the ready mix concrete already has aggregate in the form of some 9-11 stone. you can add a larger stone to the concrete to fill space, but not smaller because it will weaken the mixture. road base is classified as an unwashed 4-11 stone. repurposed asphalt is not ideal for this but will work because asphalt is rock+tar. the tar will weaken the structure because it is basically rubber "chips". this will prevent the cement from working. however in road base this is fine because the properties of the rock are all you are looking for. in addition the asphalt that is normally placed on top would only benefit from more tar/oil to bond to.
|
137 |
|
138 |
if it is crushed concrete that is a much better option because the cement in the concrete will continue to react with water and help fuse the base together, otherwise it is just rock.
|
139 |
+
--- 2609949
|
140 |
+
>>2609696
|
141 |
+
Bags of 25kg are pretty cheap here, mixed concrete is even cheaper (100 euro per m3) but i need an expensive pump to get it to where it needs to be.
|
142 |
+
|
143 |
+
Im not sure why you think rebar ruins the concrete. It will not if you put it in the right way, and not all diy is unnecessary heavy foundation work.
|
144 |
+
|
145 |
+
>>2609685
|
146 |
+
You can calculate the amount of rebar needed, its not always the same percentage. You can also calculate the position of the rebar (from top/bottom). But there are rules about the minimum distance to the edge (depending on the moisture, salt etc) so the rebar doesnt "ruin" the concrete.
|
147 |
+
--- 2609963
|
148 |
+
>>2609949
|
149 |
+
>Im not sure why you think rebar ruins the concrete.
|
150 |
+
|
151 |
+
Think he's referring to the fact that rebar puts a hard cap on the life of a concrete structure. Iron oxides are less dense than elemental iron, so corroding rebar will slowly force chunks out of the very concrete it's supposed to be reinforcing. There's no practical way to prevent this when using standard rebar, so whatever you build with it starts to literally fall apart after ~50 years. I'm not aware of any way to truly repair the damage as it happens, either. You're basically just fucked at that point and have to rebuild either parts or all of the structure.
|
152 |
+
|
153 |
+
Different types of reinforcement, glass fiber particularly, is preferred where this is a concern. I'm not sure why you'd want to use any in a small slab foundation like this, anyway, unless you absolutely can't have any expansion joints or cracks in the slab for some reason.
|
154 |
+
--- 2609969
|
155 |
+
>>2609949
|
156 |
+
you put that in a mixer right? not truly by hand?
|
157 |
+
either way i'll buy you a beer next time i see you.
|
158 |
+
>>2609737
|
159 |
+
>explaining to building control i didn't use any mortar on my block building because they are 'control joints'
|
160 |
+
fuck off idiot control joints are placed calculated so the slab can still bear load. discreet chunks of hand mix dont constitute control joints in any form and are a dogshit footing. noce try moving goal posts
|
161 |
+
--- 2609982
|
162 |
+
>>2609969
|
163 |
+
I did put it in a mixer, still a lot of work because cheap mixers only mix 3 bags at a time.
|
164 |
+
|
165 |
+
>>2609963
|
166 |
+
I have seen the meme threads about this, but this is mostly an issue with the rebar being to close to the surface/additives in the concrete/salt water/too much water in the mix/etc. Normal reinforced concrete should last 100 years+ easy.
|
167 |
+
|
168 |
+
You can do some foundations and floors without rebar, but usually you can make it lighter and cheaper by using rebar. My garage floor is only 5cm thick in most places and still fine after 7 years.
|
169 |
+
--- 2610061
|
170 |
+
>>2609910
|
171 |
+
Thanks for the info.
|
172 |
+
|
173 |
+
I'm not so much worried about how strong it will be since it's going on a bed of compacted roadbase and i'll be using tile adhesive on the back of the stones to make sure they stick to the concrete, so just as long as the 'concrete' stays solid for a few years it's fine
|
174 |
+
--- 2610063
|
175 |
+
>>2607485 (OP)
|
176 |
+
for your 4" slab (64 cft*1.1=70.4 cft)
|
177 |
+
|
178 |
+
400L of water
|
179 |
+
1080kg of cement
|
180 |
+
1770kg of 1/2" crushed stone
|
181 |
+
1570kg of sand
|
182 |
+
--- 2610085
|
183 |
+
>>2610061
|
184 |
+
I wouldn't be worried either because you are basically making a brick-tile walk way, I don't even know if you need the steel reinforcement, mostly sounds like overkill but adding that isn't a problem. if you do that and the cement doesn't set right you are basically doing this:
|
185 |
+
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0olpSN6_TCc [Embed]
|
186 |
+
|
187 |
+
the only part that might matter is the perimeter, but what you can do is to make a high quality concrete "curb"/footer as a facade or you can tile the perimeter to hide the imperfections. if you make that perimeter ring it is like the iron band on a barrel.
|
188 |
+
|
189 |
+
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9zSaGUWMEUU [Embed]
|
190 |
+
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0_KhihMIOG8 [Embed]
|
191 |
+
--- 2610215
|
192 |
+
>>2609982
|
193 |
+
100 years is not long enough i want it to last much longer
|
diy/2607615.txt
CHANGED
@@ -51,3 +51,12 @@ I bought these for work and they are godly. I've put them through plenty of stee
|
|
51 |
--- 2608191
|
52 |
>>2608190
|
53 |
Whoops, forgot the image.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
51 |
--- 2608191
|
52 |
>>2608190
|
53 |
Whoops, forgot the image.
|
54 |
+
--- 2610068
|
55 |
+
>>2607615 (OP)
|
56 |
+
I can recommend the Cobalt line (M45 or something) from "Drillforce" very much. They sell on Aliexpress. Every drill bit I got from there was well sharpened and had no trouble with stainless steel.
|
57 |
+
--- 2610181
|
58 |
+
>>2607615 (OP)
|
59 |
+
>imperial
|
60 |
+
|
61 |
+
WTF is that?
|
62 |
+
Did you mean Fractional or Standard?
|
diy/2607761.txt
CHANGED
@@ -73,3 +73,33 @@ I'd love a house that had an observation tower to shoot at trespassers from.
|
|
73 |
Today I will Remind them
|
74 |
--- 2609904
|
75 |
grover did all his planning in MS Paint
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
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|
|
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|
73 |
Today I will Remind them
|
74 |
--- 2609904
|
75 |
grover did all his planning in MS Paint
|
76 |
+
--- 2610053
|
77 |
+
>>2607763
|
78 |
+
is this an AI generated image?
|
79 |
+
--- 2610057
|
80 |
+
>>2609715
|
81 |
+
I think its a famous canadian house that was abandoned just before completion. Theres a similar house in perth Australia that is a monstrosity thats unlived in
|
82 |
+
--- 2610080
|
83 |
+
>>2607768
|
84 |
+
For fuck's sake... at least they could have centered the goddamn columns.
|
85 |
+
--- 2610087
|
86 |
+
>>2609901
|
87 |
+
>>2609902
|
88 |
+
>>2609903
|
89 |
+
>>2609904
|
90 |
+
I think they're making this house out to be far worse than it is. Sure it may not be all that aesthetically pleasing, but it's not some horribly ugly monstrosity. It's just kind of drab and utilitarian.
|
91 |
+
--- 2610106
|
92 |
+
>>2610094
|
93 |
+
That's not an abomination but an absolute INSPIRATION. What a goddamn chad installed this shit.
|
94 |
+
--- 2610154
|
95 |
+
>>2607768
|
96 |
+
>i'm afraid we can only afford one column
|
97 |
+
>there'll be no symmetry for us today, my love
|
98 |
+
--- 2610159
|
99 |
+
>>2610057
|
100 |
+
Pretty sure that one is in Finland and the story is pretty much the same.
|
101 |
+
--- 2610242
|
102 |
+
This was carefully built, to increase the horror.
|
103 |
+
--- 2610267
|
104 |
+
>>2607764
|
105 |
+
I had a friend who bought a house and said his neighbor was building something in Grapevine. I don't know who he paid off but was able to build a tower over a trail where he would use a paint gun on niggers.
|
diy/2607877.txt
CHANGED
@@ -30,3 +30,8 @@ Nta but op isn’t asking to 3D print one, he’s buying a 3D printed one
|
|
30 |
I would say if it’s a movable mount and you’re going to move it around then definitely get the alu one but if it’s a static wall mount and you’re not touching or bumping into the monitor a lot then the 3D printed one should be okay. It looks crappy and they shouldn’t have embedded the nuts in the design but for a 7kg static load that should hold it up no problem.
|
31 |
--- 2608669
|
32 |
the 3D printed one WILL break
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
30 |
I would say if it’s a movable mount and you’re going to move it around then definitely get the alu one but if it’s a static wall mount and you’re not touching or bumping into the monitor a lot then the 3D printed one should be okay. It looks crappy and they shouldn’t have embedded the nuts in the design but for a 7kg static load that should hold it up no problem.
|
31 |
--- 2608669
|
32 |
the 3D printed one WILL break
|
33 |
+
--- 2610257
|
34 |
+
>>2608575
|
35 |
+
>Room temp IQ retard. It's less than 20lbs.
|
36 |
+
i dont care if its less than 2.
|
37 |
+
printed plastic will not hold it.
|
diy/2608229.txt
CHANGED
@@ -466,3 +466,9 @@ Commuting 90 minutes one way is like $10-15 in gas each way. Tolls and depreciat
|
|
466 |
--- 2609258
|
467 |
>>2609255
|
468 |
90 minutes is 3 hours added to your work day everyday. used to not think about it like that but now that I have my own welding business my hours clock starts the moment I walk out of my house to my shop to load whatever I will need onto my truck and stops when I walk back into my house.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
466 |
--- 2609258
|
467 |
>>2609255
|
468 |
90 minutes is 3 hours added to your work day everyday. used to not think about it like that but now that I have my own welding business my hours clock starts the moment I walk out of my house to my shop to load whatever I will need onto my truck and stops when I walk back into my house.
|
469 |
+
--- 2610239
|
470 |
+
>>2609258
|
471 |
+
and this is why i gotta wrassle with the chinese for cheap welding shit
|
472 |
+
--- 2610346
|
473 |
+
>>2610239
|
474 |
+
just buy the used shit from the 80-90s its just as good as new for cheap all you really need is an engine driven stick welder generator and a cutting torch set
|
diy/2608358.txt
CHANGED
@@ -60,3 +60,5 @@ careful op, theres a swedish guy or whatever on this board thinks you should run
|
|
60 |
--- 2608975
|
61 |
>>2608358 (OP)
|
62 |
did you get it to work op?
|
|
|
|
|
|
60 |
--- 2608975
|
61 |
>>2608358 (OP)
|
62 |
did you get it to work op?
|
63 |
+
--- 2610114
|
64 |
+
An alternative is to use a bottled water pump, which has the added benefit that you can use pre-filtered water for your ice maker.
|
diy/2608400.txt
CHANGED
@@ -62,3 +62,6 @@ you could make some form of Eye E Dee, dip it in glue and then roll it in the pe
|
|
62 |
I've used quarters as copper blanks in jewelry making.
|
63 |
|
64 |
Nickels are worth more than 5¢ as raw copper.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
62 |
I've used quarters as copper blanks in jewelry making.
|
63 |
|
64 |
Nickels are worth more than 5¢ as raw copper.
|
65 |
+
--- 2610099
|
66 |
+
>>2609724
|
67 |
+
nickels aren't raw copper though
|
diy/2608474.txt
CHANGED
@@ -61,3 +61,9 @@ That's the whole point of modern casing, it's smaller and thinner because you ca
|
|
61 |
Wide flat casings require a much flatter wall and installer skill to not be a major pain in the ass to make fit right and stay there.
|
62 |
|
63 |
There's also the fact that modern post-ww2 building styles that eliminated decorative trim as much as possible would (according to your logic) offer the perfect solution, but in fact never gained favor with high production tract home builders in large part because much of that trim exists to hide imperfections and defects, and it's more costly to build to a satisfactory aesthetic appearance level when you have to avoid/correct those imperfections and defects via skill and care rather than slap some casing and caulk over them.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
61 |
Wide flat casings require a much flatter wall and installer skill to not be a major pain in the ass to make fit right and stay there.
|
62 |
|
63 |
There's also the fact that modern post-ww2 building styles that eliminated decorative trim as much as possible would (according to your logic) offer the perfect solution, but in fact never gained favor with high production tract home builders in large part because much of that trim exists to hide imperfections and defects, and it's more costly to build to a satisfactory aesthetic appearance level when you have to avoid/correct those imperfections and defects via skill and care rather than slap some casing and caulk over them.
|
64 |
+
--- 2610169
|
65 |
+
>>2609491
|
66 |
+
I don't think you've ever actually installed windows casing before.
|
67 |
+
--- 2610170
|
68 |
+
>>2609234
|
69 |
+
The window is flush with the wall, are you retarded?
|
diy/2608809.txt
CHANGED
@@ -66,3 +66,16 @@ WUT?
|
|
66 |
--- 2609834
|
67 |
>>2608927
|
68 |
At least they finally got over their obsession with finding things to create articles about 'girl power' for stupid shit like the first woman to understand the color code on resistors. For a while there, it seemed to be every third or fourth article.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
66 |
--- 2609834
|
67 |
>>2608927
|
68 |
At least they finally got over their obsession with finding things to create articles about 'girl power' for stupid shit like the first woman to understand the color code on resistors. For a while there, it seemed to be every third or fourth article.
|
69 |
+
--- 2610371
|
70 |
+
>>2608927
|
71 |
+
>could be done with very simple electronic circuits
|
72 |
+
Those days are gone man, unless you wanna do it just for nostalgia.
|
73 |
+
>be me
|
74 |
+
>need a simple logic circuit
|
75 |
+
>2 dual input NANDs and 2 inverters
|
76 |
+
>$12 with shipping for a tube of cd4091s
|
77 |
+
>need only one
|
78 |
+
>$18 for a 10 pack of arduino nano clones
|
79 |
+
It just makes sense to keep versatile cheapduinos around than to buy tubes of discrete components you need once in a blue moon
|
80 |
+
>inb4 back in my day local electronic store single components for a few cents
|
81 |
+
It's gone anon, let it go.
|
diy/2609213.txt
CHANGED
@@ -38,3 +38,7 @@ these are combination pliers, not linemans pliers
|
|
38 |
--- 2609779
|
39 |
>>2609228
|
40 |
I'm an electrician, we call them lineman's, all electricians and all linemen have them. The reason they are not called electrician's is because linemen are cooler (no electrician will argue this) and it's too hard to spell
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
38 |
--- 2609779
|
39 |
>>2609228
|
40 |
I'm an electrician, we call them lineman's, all electricians and all linemen have them. The reason they are not called electrician's is because linemen are cooler (no electrician will argue this) and it's too hard to spell
|
41 |
+
--- 2609916
|
42 |
+
>>2609779
|
43 |
+
>it's too hard to spell
|
44 |
+
Yeah, maybe for an electrician.
|
diy/2609236.txt
CHANGED
@@ -97,3 +97,45 @@ No, drunks usually move around too much for me to work on them.
|
|
97 |
--- 2609838
|
98 |
>>2609773
|
99 |
Bruddy gud, hand saw or power tools used?
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
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|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
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|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
97 |
--- 2609838
|
98 |
>>2609773
|
99 |
Bruddy gud, hand saw or power tools used?
|
100 |
+
--- 2609919
|
101 |
+
I never do a job without being at least a little buzzed. Sometimes a smoke for motivation.
|
102 |
+
--- 2609921
|
103 |
+
Rebuilt the carby on my Celica while shitfaced on sake. Ended up running a shitload better, had to make some gaskets and clean out the crusty shit from every tiny orifice and jet.
|
104 |
+
--- 2609979
|
105 |
+
>>2609778
|
106 |
+
My buddy used to cut meat all day on delta 8 gummies. I tried it one night just to see and I went through time loops laying on my couch. Tried making it to bed and I got stuck in time in my kitchen just like the guy in that video. Dat Boi stuck!
|
107 |
+
I thought I was going to die if I fell asleep. Shits just not my bag.
|
108 |
+
--- 2609984
|
109 |
+
>>2609921
|
110 |
+
Oh my word. I can't see the back end. Is that a 77 or 78?
|
111 |
+
My first car was my dad's 77 GT. With the old 20r. I was an idiot and put it in storage while trying to restore it. I got shipped overseas to Bosnia and forgot to make payments. Lost the car because I didn't care 20 years ago.
|
112 |
+
What a car. Used to do sick tire chirps in reverse in the school.parking lot. And getting stuck to the seat on hot summer days. Mine had the big thick black rubber bumpers on the front.
|
113 |
+
--- 2609999
|
114 |
+
>>2609773
|
115 |
+
It shows
|
116 |
+
--- 2610039
|
117 |
+
some of my best projects were a result of being fucking hammered....
|
118 |
+
--- 2610042
|
119 |
+
>>2609236 (OP)
|
120 |
+
I'm at work, drinking vodka in my energy drink and we're gonna, for the first time, start the Cessna Caravan PT6 that we spend the whole winter rebuilding. Wish me luck bro. Last year the dumbo chief mechanic did a hot start and burnt the turbine blade. Now I'm the one in charge, so it's gonna go well, I think. I'll provide an update later on,
|
121 |
+
|
122 |
+
Pic related, not our aircraft but same thing.,
|
123 |
+
--- 2610047
|
124 |
+
>>2609236 (OP)
|
125 |
+
If there are power tools or ladders involved I would limit it to a single beer at lunchtime, just to be on the safe side. For anything else I will quite happily drink continuously. For computer repairs it's pretty much a requirement, as it would just be too annoying to do sober and I'd either give up or break something.
|
126 |
+
The absolute king of drink-working was this guy though:
|
127 |
+
https://youtu.be/T00zEt1-3VA?t=780 [Embed]
|
128 |
+
--- 2610072
|
129 |
+
>>2610042
|
130 |
+
Update: it went perfect. No hot start, every parameters in the green arc. Been at it since Christmas and I bask in the greatness of my accomplishment,
|
131 |
+
--- 2610098
|
132 |
+
>>2609253
|
133 |
+
*grape_lady_owowow.mp3*
|
134 |
+
--- 2610104
|
135 |
+
>>2610047
|
136 |
+
That dude's insane. But I bet he has great blood pressure.
|
137 |
+
>>2610098
|
138 |
+
Kek, I can hear her.
|
139 |
+
--- 2610189
|
140 |
+
>>2609236 (OP)
|
141 |
+
I and a buddy’s dad (ex-Canadian Airborne) spent almost an hour trying to swap out my boot laces for paracord, and we were so drunk that we kept fucking up burning the ends of the paracord and melting the plastic onto our fingers. Had to replace the boots like seven times.
|
diy/2609286.txt
CHANGED
@@ -6,3 +6,42 @@ anon, the people in those countries shit in the streets. the very same people th
|
|
6 |
--- 2609303
|
7 |
>>2609286 (OP)
|
8 |
They're all privately owned, so every time a new utility connection is needed, they have to add a new cable. No old cables are removed, either, and none of the people doing the work have appropriate training.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
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|
|
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|
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|
|
|
|
|
|
|
6 |
--- 2609303
|
7 |
>>2609286 (OP)
|
8 |
They're all privately owned, so every time a new utility connection is needed, they have to add a new cable. No old cables are removed, either, and none of the people doing the work have appropriate training.
|
9 |
+
--- 2609934
|
10 |
+
>Can any line workers explain why the electrical infrastructure looks like pic related in most third world countries?
|
11 |
+
High-trust society. In the US, "diverse" and "urban" populations would destroy that in less than a day. They have to be buried under several feet of concrete.
|
12 |
+
--- 2610025
|
13 |
+
>>2609286 (OP)
|
14 |
+
Latin American cultures are more prone to consume the anime Serial Experiments Lain, which is why the youtube uploads of it all have Spanish subtitles, hence they have developed an intricate webbing of power lines to imitate its aesthetic. It's a common anthropological phenomenon in these tropical latitudes, comparable with the infamous Taqueria Goku.
|
15 |
+
--- 2610033
|
16 |
+
>>2609286 (OP)
|
17 |
+
Those are all telecom wires. No primary or secondary power line.
|
18 |
+
--- 2610082
|
19 |
+
>>2609934
|
20 |
+
> high-trust
|
21 |
+
Interesting, based, unpopular but likely true.
|
22 |
+
There, if someone is seen tampering with other ppls connections, they’d get mobed by machete wielding crowds
|
23 |
+
--- 2610088
|
24 |
+
>>2609286 (OP)
|
25 |
+
>why the electrical infrastructure looks like pic related in most third world countries?
|
26 |
+
Small Government. This is what "let the market decide!" gets you with no regulations or standards
|
27 |
+
--- 2610092
|
28 |
+
>>2610088
|
29 |
+
tough call but i think i would trade messy wires for 40% of my paycheck back
|
30 |
+
--- 2610149
|
31 |
+
>>2609286 (OP)
|
32 |
+
Are those Corinthian columns on that building?
|
33 |
+
--- 2610171
|
34 |
+
>>2609286 (OP)
|
35 |
+
Are you retarded? They are not civilized enough.
|
36 |
+
How would you sort out that mess? right. but you could add a new line.
|
37 |
+
--- 2610177
|
38 |
+
>>2610088
|
39 |
+
>>why the electrical infrastructure looks like pic related in most third world countries?
|
40 |
+
>Small Government. This is what "let the market decide!" gets you with no regulations or standards
|
41 |
+
Ah yes, the anarchocapitalist Havana and Kaliningrad
|
42 |
+
--- 2610268
|
43 |
+
>>2609286 (OP)
|
44 |
+
WDYM?
|
45 |
+
--- 2610305
|
46 |
+
>>2609934
|
47 |
+
None of this is even slightly true.
|
diy/2609300.txt
CHANGED
@@ -29,3 +29,24 @@ Like 7
|
|
29 |
--- 2609714
|
30 |
>>2609300 (OP)
|
31 |
Seems like your house would implode due to either various gravitational forces or due to the vacuum, if the immense heat of the star didn't cause a fire
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
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|
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|
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|
|
|
|
|
29 |
--- 2609714
|
30 |
>>2609300 (OP)
|
31 |
Seems like your house would implode due to either various gravitational forces or due to the vacuum, if the immense heat of the star didn't cause a fire
|
32 |
+
--- 2610037
|
33 |
+
>>2609714
|
34 |
+
Good morning sirs
|
35 |
+
Thanks for the info I will monitors this
|
36 |
+
--- 2610076
|
37 |
+
>>2609300 (OP)
|
38 |
+
The other thing you should be aware of is the cycle lifetime. If you’re connecting the thermostat to this contactor, and it has a cycle time of, say, 1 minute, at 100k contacts that’s like 3 months worth of continuous use.
|
39 |
+
|
40 |
+
I assume you’re aware you have to run 2 GA wire to this thing, eh? This is like car battery jumper cable thickness, and you’ll still suffer losses.
|
41 |
+
|
42 |
+
Good luck to you!
|
43 |
+
--- 2610097
|
44 |
+
ahh yes, so you're going from solar light to about 12 volt DC, then converting to 120 volt AC, then converting that to heat
|
45 |
+
|
46 |
+
sounds incredibly inefficient
|
47 |
+
--- 2610217
|
48 |
+
>>2610097
|
49 |
+
no, actually converting the sun into about 20-120vdc at the pv side to 12v at rhe battery side to then heat
|
50 |
+
|
51 |
+
>>2610076
|
52 |
+
More like 350 mcm cable. 2ga might work if it was about a meter from the battery
|
diy/2609402.txt
CHANGED
@@ -86,3 +86,35 @@ Wiha and Bondhus will both give you precision hex drivers that aren’t made in
|
|
86 |
|
87 |
>>2609667
|
88 |
As if there’s not half a dozen other German screwdriver brands that are just as nice but don’t pull the same amount of upvotes on Reddit
|
|
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|
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|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
86 |
|
87 |
>>2609667
|
88 |
As if there’s not half a dozen other German screwdriver brands that are just as nice but don’t pull the same amount of upvotes on Reddit
|
89 |
+
--- 2609918
|
90 |
+
>>2609763
|
91 |
+
>but don’t pull the same amount of upvotes on Reddit
|
92 |
+
reddit loves their knippex shit OMG LOOK AT MUH GERMAN TOOLS. little they know knippex is considered a cheapo brand here in germany lol
|
93 |
+
--- 2609992
|
94 |
+
>>2609918
|
95 |
+
What is better in Germany? Hazet and Gedore and shit? There’s no way they’re cheapo being made in Germany. I have some Klein made by NWS and IMO it’s a toss up compared to Alligators
|
96 |
+
|
97 |
+
The number of those XS pliers they sold to Redditors that have never been used.,,
|
98 |
+
--- 2610010
|
99 |
+
>>2609918
|
100 |
+
It's just Germans are filty rich.
|
101 |
+
--- 2610022
|
102 |
+
>>2609992
|
103 |
+
I use my xs Knipex every day it's awesome.
|
104 |
+
--- 2610054
|
105 |
+
>>2609918
|
106 |
+
German here. That post is bullshit. Knipex rules supreme over all other pliers brands.
|
107 |
+
I have a side cutter that I use exclusively to cut piano wire up to 2mm. It just occurred to me that this is the first side cutter I ever owned, so it must be over 25 years old. Works like new.
|
108 |
+
I also own a Wiha BiCut Professional, the mechanism is awesome, but I have not used it that often yet, so I cannot tell about it's long-term reliability. But so far no reason not to recommend.
|
109 |
+
--- 2610058
|
110 |
+
>>2609763
|
111 |
+
>that are just as nice
|
112 |
+
No there arent, no matter how often you post that cope. All other vde insulated ones are trash, cant compete with wera grip form and tapered shaft or have trash tips.
|
113 |
+
But im arguing the biggest consoom whore on the board, meanwhile my drivers at work are a decade old with daily use
|
114 |
+
--- 2610069
|
115 |
+
>>2610054
|
116 |
+
>owns one outdated shitty tool
|
117 |
+
>makes a shitty job
|
118 |
+
>never tried anything else, never compared his work to others'
|
119 |
+
>yeah this tool is fine, my work is fine
|
120 |
+
typical german handwerk retard
|
diy/2609419.txt
CHANGED
@@ -67,3 +67,34 @@ forgot the picture
|
|
67 |
--- 2609898
|
68 |
>>2609862
|
69 |
Also, as for contact issues with the keys, they all use magnetic reed switches sealed in little glass tubes - no real way to clean them or anything. Wouldn't hurt to go through and check the solder but from what I've heard these reed switches are built specifically to be reliable into the millions of keypresses, and there's no real way to user-service them
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67 |
--- 2609898
|
68 |
>>2609862
|
69 |
Also, as for contact issues with the keys, they all use magnetic reed switches sealed in little glass tubes - no real way to clean them or anything. Wouldn't hurt to go through and check the solder but from what I've heard these reed switches are built specifically to be reliable into the millions of keypresses, and there's no real way to user-service them
|
70 |
+
--- 2609948
|
71 |
+
>>2609419 (OP)
|
72 |
+
dude you can buy a calculator for $1 throw this e-waste away
|
73 |
+
--- 2609960
|
74 |
+
>>2609948
|
75 |
+
I know you're probably baiting but I've met people who've said similar when I've tried to save old shit, or even when I've tried to fix my 20 year old car instead of buying a new one. I've always hated those people more than anyone else.
|
76 |
+
|
77 |
+
Bro if all that matters to you is immediate utility, consider this:
|
78 |
+
In a decade, everything your mind can do will be equally doable by a free downloadable AI. Your body as raw materials is worth about 20 bucks. In the immediate sense you'll be more valuable as recycling than as a person.
|
79 |
+
|
80 |
+
Are you sure you want to advocate throwing away things that are old and unique just because they are technically worthless?
|
81 |
+
--- 2609968
|
82 |
+
>>2609960
|
83 |
+
>even when I've tried to fix my 20 year old car instead of buying a new one
|
84 |
+
20+ year old cars have legitimate advantages over newer ones.
|
85 |
+
>>2609893
|
86 |
+
Is there any sort of pattern to which digits come on the screen? This one seems to have a lot of 53535353.
|
87 |
+
--- 2610102
|
88 |
+
>>2609508
|
89 |
+
Can you post more images of the other boatds?
|
90 |
+
Really cool project.
|
91 |
+
Have you measured the output of the power supply yet?
|
92 |
+
Lots of things go full random when underpowered.
|
93 |
+
--- 2610256
|
94 |
+
>>2609968
|
95 |
+
> 20 yr old advantages
|
96 |
+
Yeah, you actually own it.
|
97 |
+
My wife uses calculator as a service… google. Only $100/month for the internet connection
|
98 |
+
--- 2610360
|
99 |
+
>>2609419 (OP)
|
100 |
+
thats just how people counted back in the day you wouldnt understand
|
diy/2609518.txt
CHANGED
@@ -78,3 +78,8 @@ Fpbp, as always. That wallet is a pussy magnet. Women live only to hear that wal
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|
78 |
Fifth post down dumbass. Reading comprehension is not your strong suit.
|
79 |
--- 2609883
|
80 |
You just buy a matching piece of Velcro and stick it to one side
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|
78 |
Fifth post down dumbass. Reading comprehension is not your strong suit.
|
79 |
--- 2609883
|
80 |
You just buy a matching piece of Velcro and stick it to one side
|
81 |
+
--- 2610089
|
82 |
+
It's garbage, toss it in the trash and buy a nice leather wallet.
|
83 |
+
--- 2610093
|
84 |
+
>>2609582
|
85 |
+
THE STORMS MOVING AWAY
|
diy/2609524.txt
CHANGED
@@ -39,3 +39,32 @@ and then some anon makes a thread or a post about how they got fucked up by thei
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|
39 |
When I was younger and working for my grandpa installing hardwood flooring I was cutting a notch for a heat register on the tablesaw doing a plunge cut. I pulled the board towards me by a milimeter and it launched the board back jamming my thumb on the hand I was holding it. The base of my thumb was swollen for a week.
|
40 |
|
41 |
I still plunge cut because I trust the way my grandpa taught me, he didn't lose a finger and a half until a miter saw incident in his late 70's.
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39 |
When I was younger and working for my grandpa installing hardwood flooring I was cutting a notch for a heat register on the tablesaw doing a plunge cut. I pulled the board towards me by a milimeter and it launched the board back jamming my thumb on the hand I was holding it. The base of my thumb was swollen for a week.
|
40 |
|
41 |
I still plunge cut because I trust the way my grandpa taught me, he didn't lose a finger and a half until a miter saw incident in his late 70's.
|
42 |
+
--- 2610002
|
43 |
+
>>2609842
|
44 |
+
> until a miter saw incident in his late 70's.
|
45 |
+
That’s a hell of a run, and it wasn’t even a table saw accident.
|
46 |
+
|
47 |
+
What do you guys use for push block tools and shit? I’m thinking about this kit, but those Grrripper things look sweet. The yellow and green ones are pricey though and I’m not sure if half a thumb is worth the ~$70 for two little blocks.
|
48 |
+
--- 2610005
|
49 |
+
>>2610002
|
50 |
+
Curious how good the grippy things are on these cheaper orange ones and if they will last.
|
51 |
+
--- 2610031
|
52 |
+
>>2610002
|
53 |
+
The grippy pad style devices are good for holding down things like sheet goods at a distance from the blade to keep them from climbing but I never use anything like that to provide the push motion into the blade, there's just too much to go wrong if you lose that traction, even if your hand stays in one piece you lose control of the work.
|
54 |
+
Best thing I've found for safety on small rip cuts when milling things like molding and edge banding is feather boards...I have a nice hardwood one with hardware that locks it into the crosscut fence stop for side pressure but also make them up as needed to attach to the fence as hold downs.
|
55 |
+
|
56 |
+
With those in place and properly set up it's almost like an unpovered power feed; you still have to push but thecpossibility of kickbacks is virtually eliminated. The boards are close enough to the blade edge that they act as a natural semi-barrier to keep hands out and away and because of the barbs it's much safer to have a partner pull the last few inches through from the outfield side or walk around and do it yourself from a safe distance.
|
57 |
+
Otherwise if I need a push stick it's always one with a notch, and long enough to push the work past the blade without putting any part of myself over the blade or in the line of kickback fire. That's obviously not 100% possible but you can get to 98-99% and be super extra careful and aware on the scary cuts, or use another method.
|
58 |
+
--- 2610146
|
59 |
+
>>2609524 (OP)
|
60 |
+
Your blade was too high you weren't using a riving knife and you removed the guard.
|
61 |
+
They gave you all the tools and you still fucked up.
|
62 |
+
--- 2610148
|
63 |
+
>>2609524 (OP)
|
64 |
+
I worked with an alcoholic that was terrified of the table saw, one day he forgot to lock the blade in position and was attempting to pull a board through from the wrong side of the saw, the blade grabbed that board and pulled it and his hand into the blade he lost 2 fingers and almost a third. I got the call to come in a finish the job and clean up the blood splatter that created an arc of gore across the ceiling. There was wet ground bone deposited on the saw table in a neat pile. Don't fuck around with table saws you big dummy
|
65 |
+
--- 2610353
|
66 |
+
>>2610005
|
67 |
+
Meh, if you are going to buy a push block get a nice one, otherwise make your own.
|
68 |
+
--- 2610357
|
69 |
+
>>2610148
|
70 |
+
I don't understand how that happens, I pull boards from the wrong side when I'm ripping long pieces by myself but like, just let go. Was he pulling from 6 inches away from the blade?
|
diy/2609532.txt
CHANGED
@@ -203,3 +203,43 @@ Your phone battery will typically run about 12 hours without any charge. You can
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|
203 |
--- 2609889
|
204 |
>>2609548
|
205 |
they can just cut the under sea internet cables it would cripple your economy so badly you would never recover
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|
203 |
--- 2609889
|
204 |
>>2609548
|
205 |
they can just cut the under sea internet cables it would cripple your economy so badly you would never recover
|
206 |
+
--- 2610100
|
207 |
+
>>2609536
|
208 |
+
with a spaceship you can go anywhere you want
|
209 |
+
>>2609539
|
210 |
+
>>2609541
|
211 |
+
every winter some idiot slides into a pole
|
212 |
+
>>2609548
|
213 |
+
also this
|
214 |
+
--- 2610279
|
215 |
+
What's your climate, and how long are you anticipating it will last?
|
216 |
+
Maintaining a full grid-connected lifestyle when the grid is down is pretty much meme shit, you'll be throwing a lot of money and brain at something that's best left as a fantasy.
|
217 |
+
You need the basics. Heat, Shelter, Water, Food. So ensure you have an alternative means of heating, mainly. That's the only essential you've lost if the power goes out. Even then, that's assuming you're in a climate cold enough where wrapping up in blankets for a few days isn't a viable option.
|
218 |
+
--- 2610298
|
219 |
+
>>2609532 (OP)
|
220 |
+
>How do you prepare for a blackout?
|
221 |
+
|
222 |
+
Where I live in Québec, I get multiday blackouts every 10 years or so.
|
223 |
+
|
224 |
+
Light :
|
225 |
+
Always have a headlight in a place you can reach easily in the dark. Make sure it has good batteries.
|
226 |
+
Always have matches in a place you can reach easily in the dark.
|
227 |
+
Always have a supply of candles.
|
228 |
+
A USB/solar recharging lamp or 3 is also nice to have. These double as battery packs.
|
229 |
+
|
230 |
+
Heat:
|
231 |
+
I have a wood stove and am rarely down to less then a half cord of wood in my yard. Worse comes to worse there's a load of bad cord wood at my workshop.
|
232 |
+
|
233 |
+
Food:
|
234 |
+
Food in fridge lasts a few days.
|
235 |
+
Food in freezer lasts longer.
|
236 |
+
Lots of dry food and canned food.
|
237 |
+
|
238 |
+
Cooking:
|
239 |
+
I cook on a gas stove anyway. I also have camping stove and a Biolite I can use for cooking.
|
240 |
+
|
241 |
+
Computers:
|
242 |
+
I have about 10 minutes of UPSes for all my computers. After that, I get the day off. If hard pressed, I have a 700w inverter.
|
243 |
+
|
244 |
+
Communication:
|
245 |
+
Land line never fails. Also, cell phone.
|
diy/2609693.txt
CHANGED
@@ -10,3 +10,37 @@ Good luck anon, may God bless you.
|
|
10 |
--- 2609720
|
11 |
>>2609717
|
12 |
Thank you brother, luckily I have a pretty big balcony so I have more than enough room for experiments. Would love to have a nice tomato plant but I'm in Ireland so I think potatoes are a must. God bless you too fren.
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|
10 |
--- 2609720
|
11 |
>>2609717
|
12 |
Thank you brother, luckily I have a pretty big balcony so I have more than enough room for experiments. Would love to have a nice tomato plant but I'm in Ireland so I think potatoes are a must. God bless you too fren.
|
13 |
+
--- 2609980
|
14 |
+
>>2609693 (OP)
|
15 |
+
It's very easy
|
16 |
+
|
17 |
+
Buy planters and soil, the soil will come with fertilizer in it that works for months so you can add some at the middle of summer but don't need to right away. I use the plant food granules that you sprinkle on top of the soil. Make sure the planters have holes, if not drill some on the bottom. Also add a layer of rocks on the bottom that helps with drainage. I have a tendency to overwater plus sometimes it just rains a lot so container plants need that drainage so they don't end up sitting in mud.
|
18 |
+
|
19 |
+
Also don't pack the soil in too hard or it discourages root growth. Another mistake I've made. You should fluff it around and shake the planter a bit to help it settle but don't squish it in tight.
|
20 |
+
|
21 |
+
Ideally seeds should start indoors about 6 weeks before going outside. Seeds usually have instructions if you should bury them or just scatter on top.
|
22 |
+
|
23 |
+
Once you get stuff growing you can thin it out so it doesn't all strangle each other and transfer it to your outdoor containers if you didn't start there. Some issues come up like pests and diseases, just google the symptoms if they arise, usually there's some spray treatment to help with that stuff. I had a lot of aphids last year and what ended up working was diatomaceous earth sprayed on the leaves and soil.
|
24 |
+
--- 2610041
|
25 |
+
>>2609693 (OP)
|
26 |
+
>I found out I'm gonna be a father
|
27 |
+
Congratulations.
|
28 |
+
>I'd like to grow some edible plants on my balcony
|
29 |
+
Safety first. Call your local planning office (or your landlord if you're renting) to find out the weight limit for your balcony and which structures are load bearing. Never drill, cut or otherwise remove material from anything load bearing. Remember to find out the wet weight of each soil/compost you use, as this will be significantly higher than the dry weight.
|
30 |
+
You might think this all sounds paranoid, but if your child really enjoys gardening they will beg you for more plants all the time and you'll end up stacking them like pic related. Each cubic foot of wet soil can easily weigh >100lbs (as you'll soon discover when you start moving the stuff around). You'll have much better peace of mind if you know your exact limits from the outset.
|
31 |
+
>I have no idea where to begin
|
32 |
+
The main things you need to control are light, moisture and soil acidity. Plants need each of these in different amounts, so you have to research the specific needs of every plant you grow. After a while your plants will also deplete the soil, so you'll have to replace the nutrients to keep them healthy. This can be done with traditional crop rotation or by adding fertiliser. Again, each plant thrives on a different fertiliser mix so you have to do your research first.
|
33 |
+
Plants are classified by a scientific name (genus and species) as well as a cultivar group (the specific breed of that species). E.g. Capsicum anuum (Jalapeño). Seed packets should always be labelled by cultivar group, so you can find instructions on how to grow everything you buy. Just type the name into any search engine or look for it in any gardening encyclopedia.
|
34 |
+
--- 2610066
|
35 |
+
>>2609693 (OP)
|
36 |
+
nothing i plant grows and when it does it dies soon
|
37 |
+
--- 2610126
|
38 |
+
>>2609980
|
39 |
+
>>2610041
|
40 |
+
Thank you for the invaluable info anons, I can only hope this thread will be useful to more people.
|
41 |
+
--- 2610135
|
42 |
+
>>2609693 (OP)
|
43 |
+
From /fit/, huh? Did they kick you off the board for asking how to grow basedbeans? We knew that's what you're asking, you know...
|
44 |
+
|
45 |
+
Oh, and post hands, so we know if you're even capable of gardening.
|
46 |
+
>You won't
|