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https://www.wikihow.com/Make-Granola

How to Make Granola

If you want to make your own granola, mix rolled oats, and your favorite nuts and seeds. In a separate bowl, mix equal parts oil and a liquid sweetener like honey or agave nectar, then pour the wet mixture over the dry ingredients and stir them together with a wooden spoon. Spread the combined ingredients out on a baking sheet and bake it for about 45 minutes at 300°F, stirring every 15 minutes. Let the granola cool for 5-10 minutes, then add in your dried fruit and other add-ins.

Add 3 c (225 g) of rolled oats to a large bowl. Rolled oats are really the only non-negotiable ingredient in homemade granola. For this basic recipe, they should make up half of your dry ingredient total (3 out of 6 cups). Any type of rolled oats will work, but old-fashioned rolled oats may provide a better texture than either quick-cook or instant rolled oats. Combine your other dry ingredients with the oats. Use a wooden spoon or your hand to incorporate everything together. Add the following amounts of the other dry ingredients: 1 c (225 g) nuts (cashews, almonds, peanuts, walnuts, etc.) 1 c (225 g) seeds (pumpkin, sunflower, sesame, etc.) 1 c (225 g) other—this could be more nuts or seeds, or another dry ingredient like coconut flakes or puffed millet. However, dried fruit is an add-on that you'll add later, and doesn't count here. Likewise, chocolate chips or other add-ons that melt don't count here and should be added at the end. Mix your wet ingredients in a medium bowl. The wet ingredients make up 1  c (240 mL) total in this recipe, and should be half vegetable oil and half liquid sweetener. Pour the oil and sweetener into a medium bowl, then stir them with a wooden spoon. Canola oil has the mildest flavor, but extra virgin olive oil and grapeseed oil also work well, depending on the flavor profile of your granola. For liquid sweeteners, try honey, maple syrup, agave nectar, brown rice syrup, or coconut nectar. Add the wet ingredients to the dry ingredients and combine them. Pour the contents of the medium bowl into the large bowl, and use the wooden spoon or your hand to thoroughly incorporate the wet and dry ingredients. Do your best to coat all of the dry ingredients in the oil and sweetener mixture. Preheat your oven and add the granola to a rimmed baking sheet. Set your oven to 300 °F (149 °C). As it preheats, spread your granola out in an even layer on a rimmed baking sheet. If desired, you can lay parchment paper on the pan first. Depending on your oven's temperature accuracy and your preferences on how toasty you like your granola, you may instead choose to set your oven to 275 or 250 °F (135 or 121 °C). Bake the granola for about 45 minutes, stirring it every 15 minutes. Pull the granola from the oven every 15 minutes, stir it around with a wooden spoon or silicone spatula, smooth it back out into a single layer, and return it to the oven. After 30 minutes, check it every 5 minutes or so for doneness. When it's golden brown, it's finished. Keep checking often, because the granola can go from golden brown to burned quickly! Mix in dried fruit, other add-ins, or seasonings as desired. Let the granola cool for about 5-10 minutes, then scoop it into a large bowl. Stir in as much and as many kinds of dried fruit as you like—raisins, dried cranberries, and dried cherries are just some of your options. Taste the granola and decide if you want to add any seasoning—maybe a pinch of salt, a spoonful of sugar, or flavors like cinnamon or vanilla. If you're adding chocolate chips or another add-in that you don't want to melt, make sure the granola is completely cooled before mixing it in. Mix the dry ingredients while you preheat the oven. Set the oven to 250 °F (121 °C), then grab a large bowl and stir the dry ingredients together with a wooden spoon or your hand. Use the following: 3 c (775 g) rolled oats. 1 c (225 g) slivered almonds. 1 c (225 g) cashews. 0.75 c (170 g) shredded sweet coconut. 0.25 c (56 g) plus 2 tbsp (28 g) dark brown sugar. Combine the wet ingredients (plus salt) in a medium bowl. Pour the liquids and the salt in a separate bowl from the dry ingredients, then stir them together with a wooden spoon. The wet ingredients include: 0.25  c (59 mL) plus 2 US tbsp (30 mL) maple syrup. 0.25  c (59 mL) vegetable oil. ¾ tsp (3.6 g) salt—while this is obviously a dry ingredient, mixing it into the wet ingredients first helps incorporate it evenly throughout the granola. Mix the wet and dry ingredients together thoroughly. Pour the medium bowl of wet ingredients into the large bowl of dry ingredients, then stir them together with your hand or a wooden spoon. Make sure to give the dry ingredients an even coating of the maple syrup and oil mixture. Don't be afraid to use your hand as a mixing tool—just make sure you wash it first! Pour the granola onto a sheet pan and bake it for about 75 minutes. Use a rimmed baking sheet and spread the granola out evenly. Every 15 minutes, remove the pan from the oven and stir around the granola to ensure even browning. After 1 hour, check the granola often to make sure it doesn't over-brown. Remove it promptly when it's golden brown. You can try increasing the temperature to 300 °F (149 °C) and reducing the baking time to 45 minutes, but you'll run a slightly greater risk of burning some of the granola. Stir in 1 c (225 g) of raisins when the mixture cools. After 5-10 minutes of cooling, scoop the granola into a large bowl. Then, mix in the raisins. This granola tastes great slightly warm, but don't store it in a sealed container until it is completely cooled to room temperature. Store fully-cooled granola in an airtight container. A glass jar with a screw-top lid is great for storing granola, but a zip-close bag will do the job as well. Just make sure the granola is completely cooled first! Warm granola will release moisture inside the sealed container, ruining the granola's delightful crunch. Keep the granola sealed in a cool, dry place for up to 1 month. Your pantry is a great place to keep your granola. Make sure you seal it back up tightly after each use, and it should last for a month—if you haven't eaten it all before then! If you're giving granola as a gift—in small screw-top jars, for instance—add a tag with a use-by date. Enjoy your homemade granola! It's great with yogurt, as a breakfast cereal with milk, and on ice cream. Or, just grab a handful for a quick snack! Once you start making your own granola, you'll probably never want to settle for the store-bought stuff again.

Add 3 c (225 g) of rolled oats to a large bowl. Combine your other dry ingredients with the oats. Mix your wet ingredients in a medium bowl. Add the wet ingredients to the dry ingredients and combine them. Preheat your oven and add the granola to a rimmed baking sheet. Bake the granola for about 45 minutes, stirring it every 15 minutes. Mix in dried fruit, other add-ins, or seasonings as desired. Mix the dry ingredients while you preheat the oven. Combine the wet ingredients (plus salt) in a medium bowl. Mix the wet and dry ingredients together thoroughly. Pour the granola onto a sheet pan and bake it for about 75 minutes. Stir in 1 c (225 g) of raisins when the mixture cools. Store fully-cooled granola in an airtight container. Keep the granola sealed in a cool, dry place for up to 1 month. Enjoy your homemade granola!

https://www.wikihow.com/Wash-a-Weighted-Blanket

How to Wash a Weighted Blanket

If you want to wash your weighted blanket, check the care label and follow its advice. In general, blankets should be washed on a gentle cycle using cold water. If your blanket has a separate outer cover, you can remove it and wash it separately without washing the actual blanket. You can also wash a weighted blanket by hand in a tub using a mild detergent. Let your blanket air dry, or use a low setting on your drier to avoid crumpling.

Read the cleaning instructions. Your blanket might have special instructions for treating or washing it.Tags on the blanket or instructions that came with purchase may tell you if there are special washing instructions for your particular brand. If it requires special care, the manufacturer may have indicated this. Check the material of your blanket. Gentle machine washes in cold water are generally advised for most blankets, but this can differ depending on the fabric of your blanket and its level of cleanliness. Some blankets have a removable outer layer. If yours does, it can be treated and washed separately. This layer will function like a duvet cover covering the inner weighted blanket and is easily removed. Inspect your blanket thoroughly. This is a good way of checking for any damage or stains that may require pre-treating before you wash the whole blanket. Treating your stains prior to washing can prevent them from being 'baked in' or set into the fabric of your blanket during the washing and drying process. If you can, treat your stains as soon as you spot them. This will prevent stains from setting into your blanket, and make them easier to clean. If the stain is an older one, you will treat it best if you know what kind of stain it is. Treatment will differ if the stain is from a food spill, body fluid, or other type of dirt. Gather your blanket for rinsing. As soon as you spot the stain, expose the section of the blanket that has been stained. Hold this section under cold running water. You can do this whether your spot is wet or dry. Adding moisture to the stain can loosen the fibers of the blanket that might be matted down with dirt. Running water on it can cause the dirt on the surface of the stain to run off, especially if the spot is fresh. Angle the stained section away from you and downwards under the running water. This will prevent loosened dirt and water from running towards you or across the rest of the blanket. Try holding the rest of the blanket close to you and away from the faucet. It is important to use cold water because of your blanket's fabric and the stain itself. Most weighted blankets should only be washed in cool water, and hotter temperatures may cause the stain to set into the blanket's fibers. Treat liquids with spray treatments. Beverages or protein-based stains like bodily fluids can be very common spills on household items. For these, use a spray that does not include harsh chemicals which can affect the soft material of your blanket. Many laundry products for stain removal can include bleach or other whitening agents. Avoid these and instead try a stain remover that is designed for the fabric of your blanket. It may be marketed towards use on rugs or throws, but should be appropriate if it is bleach-free, safe for your fabric, and hypoallergenic. Place the stained section under cold running water as soon as you can. Hold only the stained spot under the water in order to prevent colored stains from running across the blanket. If the stain has gone through the material, lift it to see what is visible on either side. This will indicate how much treatment it needs. Choose your gentle stain remover and spray it liberally on the stain. Gently rub the treatment into the stain with your fingers or a very soft brush. If the stain is visible on the underside of the blanket, rub the treatment into the stain on both sides. Do not try to scrub it out by rubbing the fabric together, as this will only spread the stain. Treat grease stains with soap. If you drop food or anything oil based onto your blanket, use dish soap on the spot. Again, avoid anything harsh or with bleach. Unscented, non-chlorinated dish soap is the best option. Once you have run water over it, directly apply the dish soap to the area of the stain. Target the site of the spot as much as possible. Rub the soap in gently with your fingers or a very soft brush. Try a clean, soft bristled laundry or tooth brush and very gently use upward rubbing motions to lift the grease. It can be difficult to tell if a grease stain has been fully removed if it is colorless. Hold the stained section into the light in order to test if the grease stain has gone. You can also run your fingers through long fibers and feel for any greasy residue. Rinse out the section you have treated. Run cold water over the cleaning agent and dirt so you can see how much of the stain is left to treat. Repeat the process with lightened applications of soap if the stain is still visible. Even if the stain is stubborn, avoid heavy scrubbing as this will set the stain into your blanket's fibers. Soak the blanket in cold water for 30 minutes if the stain is still visible. Wash your blanket straight away. Once you have finished pre-treatment and rinsing, wash your entire blanket according to instruction after you treat it. This will enable the best result for a clean blanket. If you cannot wash it straight away, keep the blanket in cold water until you can. Remove the outer layer. Your blanket may have an outer layer to protect the inner weighted material. It will be kept closed by a zipper or series of snaps. Undo these and carefully peel the outer layer from the blanket. Put the layer in the washing machine. Use a gentle or delicate cycle with cold water. Use a small amount of liquid detergent. This usually goes into the central slot of the detergent dispenser on a front loader. Avoid bleach or whitening agents. Depending on its size or thickness, the cover may need to be washed by itself. Alternatively, you can wash it with a few towels to keep the washer balanced. If this is a first wash or the cover has bright colours that run, wash the cover separately in a cold, gentle machine wash with 1 cup of salt to set the colours. Tumble dry this layer on low heat. Set your dryer to low heat or air fluff. To avoid crumpling, remove the layer from the dryer before it has finished drying and hang it out to complete the drying process. Check the fabric your blanket is made of. If the blanket does not have an outer layer, or you are washing the inner, it is important you know what it is made of. Washing instructions can differ for blankets of different materials. Check the size and weight of your blanket. Blankets that weigh more than 12lbs (5.5kg) should be washed in a commercial washer with the capacity for large loads. Check what your washing machine's weight capacity is too. If your blanket is too heavy for your washer's recommended load, you can take it to a laundromat or a professional laundering service with large commercial machines. If you are using a professional service, ensure the blanket is washed according to the right temperature for your blanket's fabric. Make sure you do not dry clean your blanket. Put your blanket in the appropriate sized washer. Select either a cold or warm water cycle depending on the fabric. Choose the lightest wash setting, either a gentle or delicate setting on your washer. Use a gentle detergent that does not include any bleach or whitening agents. Soft fleece blankets (also called cuddle fleece or 'Minky', of a soft plush feel) should be washed in a cold water machine wash with a gentle detergent. Avoid fabric softener which can gel the short, soft fibers. Ultra-soft chenille blankets can be washed in a cold or tepid water machine cycle with gentle detergent. Poly-pellets or bead inner blankets can be washed in a warm water cycle, but avoid hot water. 100% cotton-inner blankets can use either cold or warm water alone in a delicate machine cycle with gentle detergent. Wash waterproof blankets in a warm or hot water machine wash as these can be harder to clean. Still avoid bleach or vinegar cleaning products. If you have a flannel blanket, use fabric softener in a cold or medium water cycle. Alternatively, put 1 cup of white vinegar in the rinse water. Doing either of these will soften the flannel and remove pilling (the bumpy threads that break and clump on the surface of the material). Fill a tub halfway with tepid water. This can be a clean bathtub or large laundry basin. Make sure it is big enough for your blanket and required volume of water. Don't fill up the tub too much. You will want room to be able to move the blanket in the tub without spilling water over the tub. Have the tub at an appropriate height if you have trouble bending over. Avoid leaning over a tub if the blanket will be too heavy for you to lift when wet. Add a mild detergent to the water. Avoid harsh chemicals which can damage the fibers of the fabric and cotton filling. This includes bleach or other whitening agents. Gentle detergents and thoroughly rinsing your blankets and covers keeps the fabric soft and comfortable on your skin. Use an amount of detergent suitable for the size of your blanket. Between half to a full single cupful (the cup of your detergent container) should be adequate. Run your hands through the water. Use a sloshing motion to activate the detergent in the water, making it frothy. This evenly spreads the detergent throughout the tub, giving your blanket even soap coverage when washing it. Submerge the blanket completely in the water. Push the blanket into the water to completely cover it in the soapy water. Use your hands to gently knead the blanket in sections so you know where you have cleaned. Leave the blanket in the tub and drain the water from the tub. Pour fresh water into the tub. Once the original soapy water has drained, add clean water and rinse the blanket. Do this repeatedly until there is no soap residue left on the blanket. Swishing the blanket through the clean water will help dispel the soap from your blanket. You will know if the soap has been removed when the rinsing water runs clear. Remove the excess water. Squeeze out the excess water from the blanket by rolling it tightly. You don't need to wring it out. Do this repeatedly until most of the water has been dispelled. You can roll or fold the blanket and press on it to squeeze out the water. You will not be able to get all the water from the blanket, which is normal. Wringing out your blanket could misshape or redistribute its weight, so squeezing is the best option. Dry the blanket. Lay it out in the sun or over a banister. Shake it out every 30 minutes to shake out excess water and redistribute the weight. These blankets are designed to provide additional levels of comfort via evenly distributed weight and gentle pressure, so keep them as even as possible. Ensure your dryer has the capacity and size to dry your blanket. Your blanket can be much heavier when wet. Some household dryers may be too small for the size and weight of your blanket. Use a low heat or air fluff setting. If you are machine drying, choose lower heat settings. Throw in a clean towel to help fluff your blanket up while it is drying. Low heat is best for fleece, cotton, and chenille blankets. High heat can shorten the fibers of chenille over time. Poly-pellet blankets can be dried and warmed safely in low or medium heat dryer settings. Dry waterproof blankets on a low heat setting even if warm or hot water has been used to wash a stubborn blanket. Lay out your blanket. If you are air drying your blanket, exercise caution. Avoid hanging the blanket to dry. If the weight of the blanket is pulled to one side, this negates the even weight distribution within the blanket, stretches the material, and can ruin the blanket. Try laying it out or across open, ventilated surfaces like a banister. Shake it out regularly to ensure the weight hasn't redistributed unevenly.

Read the cleaning instructions. Inspect your blanket thoroughly. Gather your blanket for rinsing. Treat liquids with spray treatments. Treat grease stains with soap. Rinse out the section you have treated. Wash your blanket straight away. Remove the outer layer. Put the layer in the washing machine. Tumble dry this layer on low heat. Check the fabric your blanket is made of. Check the size and weight of your blanket. Put your blanket in the appropriate sized washer. Fill a tub halfway with tepid water. Add a mild detergent to the water. Run your hands through the water. Submerge the blanket completely in the water. Pour fresh water into the tub. Remove the excess water. Dry the blanket. Ensure your dryer has the capacity and size to dry your blanket. Use a low heat or air fluff setting. Lay out your blanket.

https://www.wikihow.com/Grill-Chicken-Wings

How to Grill Chicken Wings

To grill chicken wings, start by brushing your grill grates with oil so the wings don't stick. Then, preheat the grill to medium-high heat, or around 400 degrees Fahrenheit. Once the grill is preheated, place the wings directly on the grates so they're spread out evenly. Next, cook the wings for 10 minutes on one side, then flip them over and cook them covered for 10 more minutes. Once the wings are cooked all the way through with no pink meat on the inside, take them off the grill with tongs and serve.

Try a basic sticky marinade. Combine ⁄ 4 cup (59 mL) of light soy sauce, ⁄ 3 cup (79 mL) of dark soy sauce, 3 tablespoons (44 mL) of vinegar, ⁄ 2 cup (120 mL) of olive oil, 2 tsp (5g) of onion powder, 2 tsp (2g) dried oregano, 1 tsp (6g) of kosher salt, 1 tsp (3g) of garlic powder, 1 tsp (0.5g) of dried parsley, 1 tsp (2g) of black pepper, 1/4 tsp (0.5g) of dried thyme, 1/4 tsp (0.5g) of dried basil with 1/2 tsp (1g) of cayenne pepper in a bowl. The soy sauce and vinegar base makes this a solid marinade already, so feel free to customize the other spices and ratios to fit the flavors you want in your wings. There's no wrong answer as long as you think it tastes great! Marinating your chicken wings before grilling them allows whatever flavors you choose to get all the way to the bone, making the wings taste incredible. Make a classic buffalo sauce marinade if you prefer spicier wings. Combine ⁄ 4 cup (59 mL) of melted butter, ⁄ 3 cup (79 mL) of hot sauce, 2 tbsp (15g) of paprika, 1 tsp (6g) of kosher salt and 1/2 tsp (1g) of black pepper in a bowl and mix thoroughly. If you want your wings even hotter, add in more buffalo sauce to this recipe. If you need it hotter still, add 1 tsp (2g) of cayenne pepper to the bowl before mixing. Try a fresher, herby marinade for wings with a Mediterranean flavor. Combine 6 cloves of minced garlic, 1/3 cup (15g) each of finely chopped fresh oregano and rosemary, ⁄ 3 cup (79 mL) of olive oil, 1 tsp (6g) of salt and 1 tsp (2g) of black pepper in a bowl and stir together. Put your wings in a container or ziplock bag. The easiest way to marinate your chicken wings will be in a large ziplock bag or sealable container. Transfer your wings to either of these, making sure to leave enough room for the wings to move around a little if shaken. A ziplock bag will allow you to make sure that each chicken wing is completely covered in marinade, but will be single use. Any large container will work but might make covering the wings a little more difficult. If you don't have a container or bag big enough to hold your wings, split them evenly between two. Make sure to divide your marinade between the wings evenly as well. Cover your wings in the marinade and seal the container. Pour your chosen marinade over your chicken wings, making sure to cover as many as possible. Tightly seal the bag or container, and lightly shake the wings to cover all of them in the marinade. You might need to reopen your container and use your hands to get the marinade over every wing. Make sure to wash your hands thoroughly afterward if you do so. The marinade for your chicken wings works just as well as a dipping sauce once they're cooked. Hold back around ⁄ 4 cup (59 mL) of your marinade to use as a dipping sauce. If it's too thin, cook it over a low heat in a saucepan to reduce it slightly. Marinate your wings in the fridge for at least 4 hours. When it comes to marinating, longer is almost always better. Put your wings in the refrigerator and leave them to marinate for at least 4 hours. To add more flavor, leave the wings to marinate for up to 24 hours. Make the wings ahead of time and keep them marinating in the fridge right up until you're ready to cook them. Brush the grill grate with oil to prevent the wings from sticking to it. Dip a pastry brush or paper towel into a cooking oil, and lightly brush down the grate of the grill. This will prevent the wings from sticking to the grill and tearing as you try and remove them. If you're oiling a hot grill, dab a paper towel in cooking oil and use long-handled tongs to cover the surface. Use whatever cooking oil you have on hand. Sunflower, canola and olive oil will all work perfectly. Preheat your grill to a medium-high heat. When you're ready to start cooking your wings, make sure your grill is heated up to a medium-high heat around 400 °F (204 °C). The heat should be high enough to brown the outside of your chicken, rather than slow-cooking it. If you're unsure if you have the right heat for your grill, place your hand around 6 inches above the surface. If you can hold it there for around 5 seconds, the heat should be about right. Spread the wings evenly across the grill. Take each wing out of the marinade and lay it across the grill, being careful not to burn yourself. Make sure the wings are evenly distributed over the heat and not overlapping, as this can change the speed at which each wing will cook. Take note of which wings you put on the grill first, as these will have the most time to cook. When the wings are done, remove them from the grill in the same order you put them down to give each wing the same amount of time to cook. Brown the wings on one side for 10 minutes. Leave the wings on the grill to develop color and slight charring on one side. Check the wings every few minutes to keep them from burning or sticking to the grill. You don't need to worry about cooking the wings all the way through at this point. Focus on getting a good color on one side before flipping them. Flip the wings over and cover the grill for 10 minutes. Using a pair of tongs or a spatula, flip all of the wings over so the browned, crispy side is facing upwards. Put the cover back on the grill and leave the wings for a further 10 minutes so that they can cook through. Putting the cover on the grill will trap the heat in and help the chicken cook all the way through. If you're worried about your tongs sticking to the chicken as you're cooking it, coat the ends of them in a little cooking oil before attempting to handle the chicken with them. Check that the wings are cooked fully. Before taking all of the wings off the grill, make sure that they are cooked through and aren't pink on the inside. Use a fork to tear open one of the thicker or bigger wings to check if they are done. If you're unsure, leave the wings to cook for a few more minutes. If you have an instant-read thermometer, you can check the internal temperature of a few of the wings. If it reads somewhere above 165 °F (74 °C), the wings should be fully cooked. Take the wings off the grill and serve immediately. Use tongs to take the cooked wings off of the grill and transfer them to a serving plate. The charring on the wings from the grill will taste best when they're straight off the heat. Serve alongside some store-bought sauce, or with leftover marinade for dipping. If you're using leftover marinade as a dipping sauce, make sure NOT to use any that has been in contact with raw chicken. This can be unsafe and lead to illness. Refrigerate chicken wings within 2 hours of serving them. Once refrigerated, they'll last for around 4 days before needing to be thrown out.

Try a basic sticky marinade. Make a classic buffalo sauce marinade if you prefer spicier wings. Try a fresher, herby marinade for wings with a Mediterranean flavor. Put your wings in a container or ziplock bag. Cover your wings in the marinade and seal the container. Marinate your wings in the fridge for at least 4 hours. Brush the grill grate with oil to prevent the wings from sticking to it. Preheat your grill to a medium-high heat. Spread the wings evenly across the grill. Brown the wings on one side for 10 minutes. Flip the wings over and cover the grill for 10 minutes. Check that the wings are cooked fully. Take the wings off the grill and serve immediately.

https://www.wikihow.com/Date-a-Lawyer

How to Date a Lawyer

You might be nervous if you're dating a lawyer for the first time, but if you're flexible and open to discussing work, you can easily have a happy, fulfilling relationship. Many lawyers have to work late hours, so try to be flexible with when you spend time together. You can always do something nice to turn their evening around, like picking up food from their favorite restaurant and bringing it to the office. Don't be intimidated if your partner likes to argue since most lawyers actually enjoy a bit of debate. However, if certain topics make you uncomfortable, talk to your partner and set some boundaries about what is and isn't okay to discuss. If you want to show them you care about their work, try learning some legal terms in your spare time. This will also help you feel more included when you're around your partner's lawyer friends.

Show support when they cancel dates. Lawyers often have to work late into the evening, sometimes with no notice. Instead of getting angry when they have to cancel a dinner date, let them know you understand the difficult position they're in. Say something like “I know it's not up to you. Let's reschedule for this weekend!” Make a backup plan for when dates fall through. You'll be less likely to resent your lawyer after a canceled date if you have a backup plan for how to spend your evening. Call up a friend and see if they're available for a last-minute cocktail or offer to come over with pizza. If no one's available, go shopping for something for yourself, like new shoes or a book you've been wanting to read. Surprise them at work. If they cancel dinner plans because they have to work late, pick up food from their favorite restaurant and bring it to their office. Check to make sure their boss won't mind if you stay and eat too. This will give you extra time together while still allowing them to stay on top of things at work. Plan fun weekend outings. Lawyers spend so much of their time at work during the week that they like to go out and have a good time on the weekend. Rather than just staying in and watching TV, plan to visit street festivals, go to museums, have picnics in the park, see movies, and try new restaurants. Understand that if they have a heavy workload, weekend dates may get canceled as well. Avoid putting non-refundable deposits down on any activities. Attend their formal parties. Lawyers have to go to lots of work events and parties that require formal dress. To show you're supportive of their career, try to attend as many of these as possible. And don't bug them to leave early, since they're likely trying to make a good impression with their boss. Build out your wardrobe to feature lots of formal wear so that you don't have to wear the same dress or suit to every event. Consider a clothing rental service like Rent the Runway if you can't afford to pay for new dresses. Participate in debates with them. Lawyers are known for their arguing skills, and this isn't just limited to the workplace. They enjoy having lively debates, so if they disagree with you on an issue, don't take it personally. Stand firm and argue your side effectively. Cite reliable sources, offer statistics, and be as objective as possible, rather than letting your emotions take over. Don't be intimidated by their law degree. Be confident in your own knowledge and intelligence and be comfortable discussing a wide range of topics. Set boundaries for sensitive topics. Identify topics that are off-limits, such as politics, religion, or family issues. If you're happy to debate anything and everything, then great! But be honest if you just want to avoid a subject altogether. Your date should respect your wishes if something makes you uncomfortable. Create a rule about discussing work on dates. Decide whether you will discuss work while on dates or leave it behind. Some couples do better if work is kept out of the relationship, whereas others thrive on discussing what they did during their professional day. Have this conversation as early as possible so that you're both on the same page about it by the first or second date. For example, you could say, "Work stresses me out too much. Can we just leave any work-talk behind when we go out?" Learn some legal terms. Lawyers have their own language, often called “legalese,” and they may toss some of these terms into conversation when they talk about work. If you don't want to constantly ask what they mean, learn some common legal terms and even some of the fundamentals of Latin. Visit the library and check out Merriam Webster's Dictionary of Law as well as a couple beginner's Latin books. Some examples of legalese are affidavit, de facto, habeas corpus, fiduciary, corpus juris, and ex parte. Define the relationship. Lawyers like clear facts. Rather than playing any mind games, come out and say how you feel about them and where you see the relationship going. They might not articulate their feelings in a romantic way, but they'll appreciate your honesty, and will probably be straightforward with you as well. For example, after a first date, you could say, "I really enjoyed this. When are you free again?" After several dates, try saying, "I like what we have, and I'm not interested in seeing anybody else." Speak up when you’re feeling hurt. Let go of disappointment as often as possible – missed dates, stress, and late nights are part of the job for them. But if you're feeling truly hurt by something, let them know. Tell them what particular behavior or situation upset you, instead of starting sentences with “You always…” or “You never…” Try saying, "I was really hurt by that comment," or "That was a really important date to me, and I'm disappointed you missed it." Embrace your own career or hobby. An attorney is going to be happier dating someone who is just as passionate about their career or activities. Instead of waiting for the phone to ring, figure out what you enjoy and devote more time to it. If you love your career, stay a little later at work. If you love painting or running, spend extra time after work doing these things. Make them wait for you sometimes. Your date doesn't dump work the minute you snap your fingers, so don't do the same every time they have a free minute. Avoid canceling other plans just because your date is suddenly free. And don't think you always have to keep your phone on you in case they call. Invite them to your own events. They may not always be able to attend your work functions or family events, but extend the invitation as often as possible to show that you have a lot going on too. Invite them along to birthday parties, art shows you're in, work dinners, or volunteer projects. Go out with friends who aren’t lawyers. Don't fall into the trap of only hanging out with your significant other and their friends, who, in this case, are likely all lawyers too. You'll find yourself alone a lot if you don't have your own friends to hang out with after work. Maintain old friendships by keeping in regular contact and meeting up for dinner once or twice a month.

Show support when they cancel dates. Make a backup plan for when dates fall through. Surprise them at work. Plan fun weekend outings. Attend their formal parties. Participate in debates with them. Set boundaries for sensitive topics. Create a rule about discussing work on dates. Learn some legal terms. Define the relationship. Speak up when you’re feeling hurt. Embrace your own career or hobby. Make them wait for you sometimes. Invite them to your own events. Go out with friends who aren’t lawyers.

https://www.wikihow.com/Dismantle-a-Recliner-Sofa

How to Dismantle a Recliner Sofa

To dismantle a recliner sofa, start by tilting the sofa forward and lifting the rear upholstery strip to see the inner frame. Check the frame on each side of the sofa's seats for the locking levers. Once you find the levers, lift them to release the seat backs, then return the sofa to its normal position and carefully lift the back out of its frame. If you want to remove the bolted bars, turn the sofa over and look for the base bars. After you find the bars, unfasten their bolts to release the individual seats and center console, if your sofa has one.

Tilt the sofa forward and lift the rear upholstery strip. Lift the sofa forward so the back faces straight up into the air. Many upholstered sofas have a detachable back panel that you can lift to expose the inner frame. Locate and unfasten the velcro strips or snaps that secure the fabric to the frame's base, then lift up the upholstered panel. Locate the rear locking levers. Check the frames on each side of the sofa's seats for the locking levers. At each side of the sofa's main body, around where the top of the arm and back join, you should see a metal lever pointing in a downward position. If your sofa has a center console, you should see levers on the frames between it and the seats. Feel for the locking levers between the rear seams. If your sofa doesn't have detachable strips of fabric that expose the frame, stick your hands into the rear seams on the sofa's left and right sides. Check the seams between the center console and seats, if any are present. Feel within the seams for the locking lever pointed in a down position. Lift the locking levers to release the seat backs. Use a flat head screwdriver or, in a pinch, your fingertips to loosen and raise each lever and release the seat backs. After unlocking the levers, return the sofa to its normal position and carefully lift the back out of its frame. If your sofa has a pair of seats divided by a center console, lift each individual seat and console back out of its housing. Turn the sofa over to locate the base bars. Lift the sofa onto its front side so its back faces straight up toward the ceiling. Look under the sofa to see if it has base bars. If they're present, you should see two or three bars screwed or bolted from one end of the sofa's base to the other. Unfasten the base bars’ bolts. Check the heads of the screws or bolts that secure the base bars. Use a drill with the appropriate bit to unfasten each screw or bolt from the base bars. You'll probably need Robertson drive bits, as base bars are often secured with square Robertson screws. Have a helper hold the sofa as you remove the last bar. It's best to get someone to help you remove a sofa's base bars, especially when removing the final bar. When you detach the last bar, the individual seats and console will come apart freely. Having someone stabilize the sofa will help keep its components from rolling away, getting damaged, or damaging nearby objects. Take pictures as you disassemble the sofa. When you first lift the sofa's rear upholstery panel, take pictures of the frame, base, and other relevant features. That way, when you have to put it back together, you'll know what the sofa is supposed to look like when it's fully assembled. If you're unsure about your mechanical abilities, you could take pictures at each step of disassembly to guide you during reassembly. Keep bolts, screws, and other hardware in separate plastic bags. Have plastic bags or other small containers on hand when you unfasten any screws or bolts. Place your hardware into a bag as soon as you remove it. Keep separate bags for each base bar's hardware so it's easier to sort through the screws, bolts, nuts, and washers. Label your disassembled parts so you'll know where to reinstall “left seat back” and “top base bar.” Reinstall the top bar first during reassembly. Line up each of the base's parts up so their backs face the ceiling. Locate the predrilled holes on the top base bar where the screws or bolts fit, and line the bar up with the corresponding holes on the sofa's base. Start by fastening the top bar's center screws that attach it to the center part of the sofa, then work outward to reattach the bar to the base of each sofa part. After securing the top bar, drive the screws into the remaining bars to reassemble the sofa base. Reassemble seats by replacing the backs and locking the levers. Place the sofa in a normal position. Carefully slide the detached seat back into its housing, and jiggle it a little until you've slid it all the way into place. Turn the sofa forward so the back faces toward the ceiling, locate the locking levers, and push each lever down to lock the seat into position.

Tilt the sofa forward and lift the rear upholstery strip. Locate the rear locking levers. Feel for the locking levers between the rear seams. Lift the locking levers to release the seat backs. Turn the sofa over to locate the base bars. Unfasten the base bars’ bolts. Have a helper hold the sofa as you remove the last bar. Take pictures as you disassemble the sofa. Keep bolts, screws, and other hardware in separate plastic bags. Reinstall the top bar first during reassembly. Reassemble seats by replacing the backs and locking the levers.

https://www.wikihow.com/Remove-Ink-Stains-from-Suede

How to Remove Ink Stains from Suede

The best way to remove ink stains from suede is to rub the stain with fine grit sandpaper or an emery board nail file. However, before you do this, test it on an inconspicuous area to make sure it doesn't damage the seude. If you don't have sandpaper, you can try to rub the stain off with a white eraser instead. Follow up with a vinegar-soaked soft bristle toothbrush if friction doesn't work. Once the stain is gone, brush the area with a clean toothbrush.

Obtain a small piece of fine-grit sandpaper. Sanding is generally considered the best way to remove stains from suede. An emery board, a common type of nail file, is convenient and will also work well for this method. An emery board is essentially a small strip of fine-grit sandpaper glued to a piece of cardboard. You can buy inexpensive emery boards from most grocery stores, pharmacies, and beauty shops. Do a spot test. While sandpaper is relatively safe for suede, it may not be right for all items. Some processing and dyeing methods may make suede more prone to damage from friction. To make sure sanding won't ruin the suede, do the following before tackling your stain: Pick a small, inconspicuous spot on your item to test. This should be in an area that is hidden from view during normal use, such as the inside of a jacket. If you can find no such spot, pick one that is less visible, such as the inner side of a shoe rather than the outer side. Gently rub the sandpaper on the spot. Go back and forth a few times. Check for damage. It's normal to see some loose fibers after sanding suede. These can be shaved off with a razor. However, if there is any discoloration or major changes in texture, you should try a different cleaning method. Buff away the stain. Gently go over the stain with your sandpaper. Make small circular motions all over the stained area. Apply only the lightest amount of pressure possible. Be careful not to abrade the fabric. The stain should gradually wear away. Follow up with white vinegar or rubbing alcohol. It's possible that sanding alone will not remove the stain. If there is still a stain that won't get any lighter, stop buffing and try a solvent method: Soak a soft bristle brush with either white vinegar or rubbing alcohol. Gently scrub the stain, being careful not to abrade the suede. If the brush dries out before you've completely lifted the stain, soak it again with your solvent of choice. Once the stain is lifted, finish up by brushing the area with a clean toothbrush. Find the right eraser. It can be an eraser made of rubber, vinyl, or art gum. The important thing is to make sure your eraser is white (or tan if it's made of art gum). Erasers that are dyed bright colors like pink can create an even worse stain. Suede cleaning kits are often sold with a special suede eraser. Rub the stain with your eraser. Press the eraser against the stained suede and rub it just like you were erasing pencil off of paper. Apply strong pressure to the eraser as you rub. Erasers are gentle and unlikely to damage the suede. Keep going back and forth with the eraser until the stain either is completely lifted or stops getting lighter. Depending on how badly your suede is stained, this step may take a long time. You may also end up needing to use a second eraser if the first is completely worn down. Brush off the residue when you're finished. Follow up with a solvent if necessary. If the stain persists after your eraser stops being effective, you will need to remove the rest of it with a suede-safe solvent: Soak a soft bristle brush with either rubbing alcohol or white vinegar. Scrub the stain gently with the brush. To avoid abrading the suede, use only a very light amount of pressure. For stubborn stains, alternating between rounds of erasing and brushing may give you the best results. Run a clean toothbrush over the area once the stain has been completely removed. This will help to restore your suede to its proper texture. Seal your suede with a protective coating. Because suede is so difficult to clean, it's better to prevent ink stains from happening in the first place. Suede-protecting sprays can be found in most drugstores, leather shops, and shoe stores. Even if the sealant cannot protect your suede completely, it may result in a stain that is lighter and easier to remove compared to an unsealed item. Be sure to do a spot test with the sealant before coating your entire item. Even products specifically made for suede may still cause discoloration due to variations in manufacturing. Re-seal items every few months. Brush your item with a suede brush before and after spraying. Mop up excess ink immediately. A universal rule of stain control is to soak up extra liquid before it can spread. Blot the ink with a clean cloth. Do not rub with the cloth by moving it from side-to-side. Instead, pat the spot with up-and-down motions. Be careful not to press down too hard. Rubbing and too much force can push the pigment into your suede, making the stain harder to remove. Remove the stain as soon as possible. You should begin stain removal immediately after the ink has dried. The longer you leave the stain, the more difficult it will be to remove. Sometimes stains allowed to set for too long may become permanent. Unlike many other types of stains, it's more prudent to allow ink stains on suede to dry out before cleaning. The sandpaper and eraser methods will not work on wet ink. Additionally, attempting to clean wet ink using only a solvent may cause the ink to run, spreading the stain.

Obtain a small piece of fine-grit sandpaper. Do a spot test. Buff away the stain. Follow up with white vinegar or rubbing alcohol. Find the right eraser. Rub the stain with your eraser. Follow up with a solvent if necessary. Seal your suede with a protective coating. Mop up excess ink immediately. Remove the stain as soon as possible.

https://www.wikihow.com/Broast-Chicken

How to Broast Chicken

To make a broasted chicken, prepare a cajun seasoning, a fry mix, and a coating mix, and divide the chicken if it's whole. After soaking the chicken in salt water for an hour, heat 1 cup of canola oil to 375 degrees Fahrenheit in a pressure cooker. Then, combine the seasonings and mixes in a bowl, and add 1/2 cup of water, whisking to form a batter. Coat each piece of the chicken in the batter, and deep-fry each piece for 2-3 minutes. Finally, add the fried chicken into the pressure cooker and cook for 10-12 minutes.

Combine the Cajun spice blend seasonings. Toss together the salt, garlic powder, paprika, black pepper, onion powder, cayenne pepper, oregano, thyme, and red pepper flakes in a small bowl. Stir them together until all the spices appear to be evenly distributed. After mixing the spice blend, set aside 1 Tbsp (15 ml) for use in this recipe. Put the rest in a small, airtight container and store it in your pantry. It should last there for several months. Combine the coating mix ingredients. In a medium bowl, whisk or stir together the flour, salt, pepper, thyme, tarragon, ginger, ground mustard, garlic salt, and oregano until the ingredients appear to be evenly distributed. You should have just enough coating mix for this recipe, so you should not need to save any. If you choose to make a double batch, however, take what you need for this recipe and save the rest in an airtight container. It should last in your pantry for a few months, as well. Clean the chicken. Rinse the chicken under cool running water and pat it dry with clean paper towels. Cut the legs off the chicken. Twist the legs out of their joints and-and cut them away from the body of the chicken. Extend one leg as far away from the body as possible and cut through the skin to reveal the inner meat. Bend the leg back until the ball joint pops out of the socket. Cut the leg off from the body, slicing through the joint as-as close the-the backbone as possible. Repeat this process with the other leg. Separate the drumstick and thigh. Look for the line of fat lying in between the drumstick and thigh portion of one leg. Cut along this line to separate the two portions. Repeat this step with the other leg. Note that this line of fat marks the location of the joint, and it is the joint itself that you need to cut through. Remove the inedible portions. Cut through the ribs and collarbone on both sides of the body of the chicken using sharp, clean poultry shears. Pull away the back and the neck when finished. You should be able to remove the back and neck in one piece. These portions are usually discarded, but you can also save them for use in chicken stock. Place them in a sealed bag or container and refrigerate for up to 3 or 4 days. Loosen the breast meat. Cut and twist the breast meat away from the remaining bone. Turn the chicken so that it lies with the breast skin facing down. Draw your knife through the breast, splitting it from the neck end to the breast bone. Score down the length of the breastbone, as well. Place your thumbs on either side of the breastbone and bend the breast portion of the chicken back until the top of the bone starts peeking out. Loosen the bone with your fingers and pull it out. Split the rest of the breast meat in half using your knife. Make the cut along the mark left by the breast bone. Trim off the wings. Cut off one wing at the joint nearest the breast meat, then separate the wing into two pieces by cutting in between the second wing joint. Repeat this with the second wing. You should leave some of the breast meat attached when separating the wing from the body of the chicken. Quarter the chicken breast. Cut one side of the chicken breast in half, getting two pieces. Repeat with the other side of the chicken breast. The pieces you cut away should be as equal in size as possible. Soak the chicken pieces in salt water for 60 minutes. Pour 4 cups (1 L) of water into a large bowl and add 1/4 cup (60 ml) salt. Stir to combine, then place the chicken pieces in the water and allow them to soak for 60 minutes. Do not drain the chicken. You will remove it and add it directly to the coating mix when the times comes instead of letting the chicken dry first. Heat oil in the pressure cooker. Pour the canola oil into the pressure cooker and set the pressure cooker on the stove. Heat the oil on high until it reaches a temperature of 375 degrees Fahrenheit (190 degrees Celsius). Make sure that your pressure cooker can be used on the stove. It should have a flat bottom, rather than sitting on elevated feet. Most pressure cookers are made from metals that are safe to use on the stove, but you should check the instructions that came with the pressure cooker to verify that stovetop use will not damage it. Combine the seasonings. In a large bowl, combine the baking powder, 1 Tbsp (15 ml) Cajun seasoning, 1 cup (250 ml) frying mix, the cornstarch, the pepper, and the salt, whisking until everything appears to be evenly combined. Add water to form a batter. Slowly pour up to 1/2 cup (125 ml) of water into the dry batter ingredients, whisking continuously. Stop adding water once you have a thin, smooth batter. You may not need the full 1/2 cup (125 ml), so it is important that you add the water slowly. The batter should be thin, but if it becomes too watery, it may not adhere to the chicken. Coat the chicken. Remove a piece of chicken from the salt water using tongs and toss it directly into the batter. Use your tongs to turn the chicken in the batter until all sides are coated. Repeat this as needed, working with one piece of chicken at a time, until all the chicken has been coated. Hold each piece of chicken over the bowl of salt water for a few seconds to allow the excess water to drip off. You need the skin to be moist, but it should not be dripping wet. It is best to drop the chicken directly into the hot oil after coating it. If you place the chicken on a plate beforehand, some of the coating might wipe away. Deep-fry the chicken for 2 to 3 minutes. Place the pieces of chicken in the hot oil, cooking a few at a time. Fry each piece for 2 to 3 minutes or until the coating becomes crisp and lightly golden. Remove the finished pieces of chicken from the hot oil using tongs and transfer them to a plate lined with several layers of clean paper towel. All pieces should be on this plate before you move onto the next step. Drain most of the oil. After frying the chicken, pour off all but 1/4 cup (60 ml) of the oil. Add 1/4 cup (60 ml) of water to the pressure cooker, as well, before continuing on. You should avoid using more than 1/4 cup (60 ml) of oil in your pressure cooker while the pressure cooking function is active. Oil and other fats rise to a much higher temperature than water and water-based liquids, and when heated in a pressure cooker, the oil could overheat and cause burns. Make sure the water is warm to hot when you add it to the hot oil. Adding cold water could produce steam and cause the oil to splatter. It is strongly recommended that you wear oven mitts when you do this step to avoid burning yourself on the oil or the hot pressure cooker. Cover and cook for 10 to 12 minutes. Put the chicken back in the pressure cooker. Tightly secure the lid onto the pressure cooker and cook the chicken inside for another 10 to 12 minutes, or until it is no longer pink in the middle. Make sure that the pressure cooker trivet or rack is in place before you return the chicken to the basin and cover it. Consult the manufacturer's instructions to determine how to engage the pressure regulator. The pressure should usually be set to 15 lb (6.8 kg). Consult the instructions for brand-specific guidelines on pressure. Do not attempt to open the pressure cooker during the cooking process. Remove the lid. Pull up the pressure valve and allow the vapor to completely escape before unlatching and removing the lid. You must allow the vapor to escape before you open the lid. If you open the lid too quickly, you could actually burn yourself on the burst of steam that will rush out. Drain the chicken. Remove the chicken with tongs and transfer the pieces to another plate lined in fresh paper towels. Allow the excess oil to drain off for about five minutes. During this time, you are also allowing the chicken to cool slightly. While you'll want this chicken to be hot when you eat it, the internal temperatures will usually be a little too hot when you initially pull the chicken out of the pressure cooker. Serve hot. You should enjoy the chicken while it is still freshly cooked and warm. The chicken can be saved, but it can become soggy when you reheat it, so it is best eaten when freshly cooked. If you do choose to save the chicken, place it in an airtight container and refrigerate it for up to 4 or 5 days.

Combine the Cajun spice blend seasonings. Combine the coating mix ingredients. Clean the chicken. Cut the legs off the chicken. Separate the drumstick and thigh. Remove the inedible portions. Loosen the breast meat. Trim off the wings. Quarter the chicken breast. Soak the chicken pieces in salt water for 60 minutes. Heat oil in the pressure cooker. Combine the seasonings. Add water to form a batter. Coat the chicken. Deep-fry the chicken for 2 to 3 minutes. Drain most of the oil. Cover and cook for 10 to 12 minutes. Remove the lid. Drain the chicken. Serve hot.

https://www.wikihow.pet/Reduce-Cat-Dander

How to Reduce Cat Dander

To reduce cat dander, brush your cat at least once a day. Additionally, bathe your cat once a week if you can, using anti-dander cat shampoo and conditioner. You should also use a de-shedding tool every week, since having clean fur and skin help prevent dander from developing. It's also a good idea to feed your cat food made with whole, natural ingredients. Look for food that's high in omega 3 fatty acids in particular, which can reduce the amount of dander your cat produces.

Brush your cat regularly. Practice good grooming and make sure you brush your cat at least once a day. This will prevent the buildup of dander on her skin and remove any dead fur. Older cats, obese cats, or cats with musculoskeletal issues should be given special attention and brushed well especially in their back area, as they will likely be unable to groom themselves in this area. Long haired cats can also really benefit from regular grooming, as they may require a bit more work to keep their coats healthy and clean. Bathe your cat with cat shampoo and conditioner. It can be a challenge to bathe your cat, but giving Princess Fluffers a bath once a week will help to control the buildup of dander on her skin. You should use shampoo that is formulated for cats and has anti-dander properties. Shampoos that contain aloe vera or oatmeal can also help to soothe irritated skin and slough off dead fur and dead skin. You can follow the shampoo with a conditioner formulated for cats, as this will help to soothe and moisturize her skin. Follow the bathing directions on the bottle and ensure you rinse your cat well to remove all the shampoo and conditioner once she is clean. Apply a monthly spot treatment to prevent parasites like fleas or ticks. Make sure your cat is protected against dander-causing pests like fleas or ticks by applying a monthly spot treatment on her skin. You can find these spot treatments at your local pet store. Apply the spot treatment after bathing your cat at least once a month. If your cat does get fleas or ticks, you should use insecticide in your home to kill the fleas and any larvae. You can also put a flea collar on your cat to help deflect fleas from getting into your cat's fur. Use a de-shedding tool on your cat. De-shedding tools can help to remove hair from your cat's fur and keeps her skin clean, thereby preventing the development of dander. Most cats enjoy a de-shedding session once a week, particularly in the spring and summer, when cats shed the most hair. The de-shedding tool will not shorten your cat's coat, as it does not break hair off the follicle, and will only remove hair that is already falling out. You can find de-shedding tools at your local pet store or online. De-shedding your cat can also reduce the amount of cat dander that ends up on your furniture and clothing. Long haired cats in particular can benefit from regular de-shedding sessions. De-shedding can also reduce the development of hair balls, so they are beneficial for cats prone to hair balls, such as Himalayan cats and Persian cats. Look for cat food made with whole, natural ingredients. Opt for high quality cat food that will ensure your cat's skin is healthy and she is healthy overall. Check the labels on cat food to confirm it is made with whole natural ingredients. You should also check the ingredients on the cat food to check that meat is the first ingredient listed by the manufacturer. Any by-products or fillers, like grains, should be low on the list of ingredients. Try not to give your cat too much dry cat food, as this can cause her to become dehydrated and lead to a poor diet. Make sure your cat maintains an optimal weight, as she can develop grooming and dander issues if she becomes obese. Make sure your cat's diet is high in omega 3 fatty acids. Make sure you are also giving your cat foods high in omega 3 fatty acids. This can help to reduce the amount of dander your cat produces and reduce her chances of developing dander. Give your cat fish oil supplements. Fish oil supplements can provide enough essential fatty acids for your cat, which can reduce inflammatory conditions or issues she may be having. Inflammatory issues can cause your cat to produce dander. Fish oil supplements for cats come in capsules or liquid form. Pierce the capsules and drop ¼ tsp to your cat on her food once a day. You can also use a dropper to put ¼ tsp of the liquid fish oil in her food once a day. Let the vet examine your cat’s skin. If your attempts to reduce your cat's dander with home treatments do not seem to work, you should take your cat to your vet. She will then examine your cat's skin and perform several tests, including: A skin scraping: This test is done by gently scraping your cat's skin with a scalpel. The debris is then examined under a microscope to check for mites, bacteria, yeast, or other issues. A skin culture: This test will help to check for any bacteria that may be causing the dander. A tape test: This test is done by placing tape on your cat's skin and then examining the tape for any parasites. A skin biopsy: This test is done by removing a small section of your cat's skin and examining it under a microscope for fleas, mites, and other issues. A food and allergy test: This test will help your vet determine if the dander is caused by an allergy. Ask the vet if your cat has diabetes or is overweight. Your vet should also do a blood test to check if your cat has diabetes. Cats are susceptible to a form of diabetes called diabetes mellitus, which results in dander. Your doctor should also check if your cat is overweight or obese, as your cat may require a diet change and medication to reduce her weight. This will then allow her to better groom herself, preventing the development of dander on her skin. Receive medicated treatment from your vet. Once your vet receives the results of your test, she should prescribe a medication or a form of treatment for your cat. This treatment should help to reduce the development of dander on your cat's fur. Wipe down surfaces with a damp cloth once a day. You can remove dust and dander from household surfaces, like baseboards, ceilings, walls, and countertops, by wiping them down with hot water and a clean cloth once a day. You can also use a basic all-purpose cleaner to prevent the accumulation of dust and dander on surfaces you use all the time. You can also look for cleaning sprays that are designed to remove cat dander, often sold at pet stores or online. Look for cleaners made with non-toxic, plant-based products, especially if you are going to be using the spray on surfaces that you eat on or touch often, like kitchen counters. Use lint rollers and brushes on furniture. It can be difficult to remove dander from fabric surfaces, like couches, cushions, carpets, and drapes. You can use lint brushes and rollers that are make specifically to remove dander, running them on the surface of the furniture. Try to do this once a day or once a week, as you do not want the dander to accumulate on furniture. Wash all drapes, rugs, and slip covers once a week. You can also tackle dander by washing all drapes, curtains, and slip covers in your washing machine once a week. Only use detergent or shampoo that is made for upholstery so you do not ruin it. You should also run carpets and drapes through the wash once a week, as these surfaces tend to accumulate more dander than others. A more drastic option would be to go for a more bare look in areas where your cat tends to hang out or live in. For example, your cat may spend a lot of time in your living room and having no drapes or rugs in your living room can help to reduce the amount of washing and cleaning you will have to do. Vacuum your house with a HEPA vacuum once a week. A HEPA vacuum has a High Efficiency Particulate Arresting (HEPA) filter that will effectively suck up and remove dander on carpets and other fabric surfaces. Investing in a HEPA vacuum will likely save you a lot of cleaning later, as you can spend less time cleaning and still achieve a dander-free home.

Brush your cat regularly. Bathe your cat with cat shampoo and conditioner. Apply a monthly spot treatment to prevent parasites like fleas or ticks. Use a de-shedding tool on your cat. Look for cat food made with whole, natural ingredients. Make sure your cat's diet is high in omega 3 fatty acids. Give your cat fish oil supplements. Let the vet examine your cat’s skin. Ask the vet if your cat has diabetes or is overweight. Receive medicated treatment from your vet. Wipe down surfaces with a damp cloth once a day. Use lint rollers and brushes on furniture. Wash all drapes, rugs, and slip covers once a week. Vacuum your house with a HEPA vacuum once a week.

https://www.wikihow.com/Spot-the-Signs-of-Cat-Abuse

How to Spot the Signs of Cat Abuse

To spot the signs of cat abuse, look for physical signs of neglect, like weight loss, visible bones, poor skin and coat quality, matted fur, and open sores. You should also keep an eye out for unintentional abuse, such as hoarding, which is when cats are kept together in overcrowded and unsanitary living conditions. If you suspect that a cat is being abused, avoid talking to the abuser directly since they may become confrontational. Instead, report your suspicions by calling your local animal control agency.

Look for signs of cat hoarding. Cat hoarders are a type of unintentional abuser, because they keep their cats in overcrowded and unsanitary living conditions. Overcrowding stresses the cats and forces large numbers of cats to live in a space that they would not normally occupy. This leads to bullying and extreme competition for resources, even if food is freely available, because some cats will be more dominant than others and guard the food. The hoarder's environment is also usually dirty, lacking a clean place for the cats to sleep, eat, and use the toilet. Hoarders are often reluctant to receive visitors and act secretively, but the cats are usually easy to spot through the window. Pay attention to cats that do not have their basic needs met. Every pet cat has a right to shelter from the wind, rain, sun, and cold, as well as adequate food, fresh water, and sanitation. If these basic principles are not met, it is considered abuse, and can be identified with the following signs: A painfully thin cat may not have enough food to eat. A fainting or very thirsty cat may not have enough water or shade. An antisocial or aggressive cat may have been taken away from his mother prematurely. A cat that is shut in a small space with no ability to play or fulfill her need for movement. A cat that is deprived of companionship or forced to live in an environment with loud music or constant shouting. A cat that does not have a litterbox or access to the outdoors while the owner is away. Spot poor skin, coat, and paw condition. The cat may have hair loss, open sores, or an angry red rash. The cat's coat may be excessively matted, or infested with fleas and ticks. This can cause the cat to scratch himself raw, or have lots of black, coal-like dust mixed in with her hairs ("flea dirt"). Dab the dirt with a damp cotton towel. A orangey-red stain is blood that indicates a flea infestation. A cat with a tick infestation has lots of grey "bubbles" stuck to his skin, which are the engorging ticks. The cat may have overgrown nails that dig into the pads and cause the pads to bleed, or weep pus from an infection. Notice untreated wounds at risk of fly strike. An untreated open wound on a neglected cat is at risk of "fly strike." This means that flies may lay their eggs in the skin, which then hatch out into maggots. If this has already happened, you may notice cream-colored grubs wriggling in the wound, or a sickly sweet smell from the infected wound. Depending on how much they have fed, the maggots range in size from approximately a hair's width and half a millimeter ( / 5 inches) long, to chunky grubs. Keep an eye out on any neighborhood cat that is repeatedly pregnant. Repeated pregnancy is also a form of neglect, because letting a female cat produce litter after litter puts a huge drain on the queen's body. Breeding is especially irresponsible if the kittens then mysteriously disappear, or populate the neighborhood with unwanted cats. Look for any cats that are especially thin or bony. Young or middle aged cats should be plump or sleek, with well-covered bones. If you stroke a cat and his backbone bumps against your fingers, or if you can easily count each of his ribs, then the cat is underweight. Look for suspicious injuries to identify intentional abuse. Look for any cats that seem to be regularly injured, cut, or lame. A cat that favors a different leg on different days is especially suspicious, as this is likely caused by repeated injury rather than a chronic medical condition. If you witness the owner in the act of physically abusing a cat, record the time and details and contact the police. Pay attention to odd behavior. Most animals that are being abused give tell-tale signs in their behavior. Commonly, the cats are described as seeming "cowed", hunkering down with dilated eyes, glancing around for an escape route. Some cats become highly aggressive, and lash out at the slightest provocation, since they regard attack as the best form of defense. Report abuse to the authorities to stop it. Never confront the suspected perpetrator but report your suspicions to the authorities. A detailed description or evidence will get your farther than a hunch, so be specific. These include the local law enforcement authority, animal welfare organization, animal control officer, SPCA, or the local animal shelter. Collect information such as dates and times that you think the abuse happened, and if possible, document the evidence with photos or videos. Realize that sometimes other ailments can be mistaken for signs of abuse. Make sure to consider the bigger picture before making a judgment call. Sometimes it can be easy to mistake an animal that is sick, but receiving veterinary treatment, for a pet that is being abused. For instance, an animal that is very thin may have a medical condition that is being managed, not starving from lack of food. Take note of how the animal reacts around his owner. The cat's behavior around his owner can be a good indicator of its feelings towards the owner. If the cat runs to greet his owner and rubs around his legs purring that is a good sign. If the cat flinches and cowers, it is possible he is being abused. Even this is not conclusive, especially if you witness the cat struggling due to being fed medication or given a bath. Strike up a non-confrontational conversation with the cat owner. To determine if there is a possible explanation for a cat in distress, simply approach the owner and ask gently. Ask him whether the cat is all right, and listen attentively to the answer. Try to keep your tone conversational. If the owner says the cat is on medical treatment, you can try asking which vet the cat is seeing. If you are not satisfied by the answer, do not confront the owner, but consider putting the problem in the hands of the authorities. Understand what constitutes unintentional abuse. Unintentional abuse is just what it sounds like, abuse that occurs due to inadequate care, but is not malevolent. Sadly, even people who consider themselves animal lovers can perpetrate unintentional abuse. This type of abuse typically involves failing to meet all the animals' basic needs, such as adequate food, clean water, a clean place to rest, and shelter from the elements. Unintentional abuse is common when people hoard more animals than they can care for, or when they neglect their cats by not providing adequate food while they are on holiday. Be aware of intentional abuse. Intentional abuse occurs when the owner knows that the animal is being harmed or injured, but does nothing about it. In the worst case, this can be intentional neglect with cruel intent, intentionally inflicting pain and suffering on the cat. Besides physical injury, intentional abuse includes not taking a sick cat to the vet or not treating a flea infected cat.

Look for signs of cat hoarding. Pay attention to cats that do not have their basic needs met. Spot poor skin, coat, and paw condition. Notice untreated wounds at risk of fly strike. Keep an eye out on any neighborhood cat that is repeatedly pregnant. Look for any cats that are especially thin or bony. Look for suspicious injuries to identify intentional abuse. Pay attention to odd behavior. Report abuse to the authorities to stop it. Realize that sometimes other ailments can be mistaken for signs of abuse. Take note of how the animal reacts around his owner. Strike up a non-confrontational conversation with the cat owner. Understand what constitutes unintentional abuse. Be aware of intentional abuse.

https://www.wikihow.com/Untangle-and-Soften-Doll-Hair

How to Untangle and Soften Doll Hair

To untangle and soften doll hair, start by pouring some fabric softener in a bowl. Then, submerge the doll hair in the fabric softener, working it into the hair with your fingers. Next, let the hair soak for at least 1 hour before combing through it to loosen any tangles. Finally, rinse out the softener using cool tap water and then let the doll hair dry.

Soak the hair in fabric softener. Choose a high-quality brand of fabric softener for the best effect. Pour some fabric softener in a bowl or cup. How much you need depends on the amount of hair on the doll. You should have enough fabric softener to completely soak the doll's hair. To avoid wasting fabric softener, start off by adding a small amount. Add more fabric softener as you go along, adding enough to soak the doll's hair. Place the doll's hair in the bowl. Work the fabric softener into the hair using your fingers. Keep going until the hair is completely coated. Set the doll aside. Keep the doll in a safe place, where it will not be disturbed. Leave the fabric softener in for at least an hour. If the doll's hair is in particularly rough shape, consider leaving the softener in overnight. Comb out the hair with the fabric softener still in the hair. After soaking the doll's hair for your chosen time period, comb the hair out with the fabric softener still in place. The softener should act as a conditioning agent, smoothing out the doll's hair and loosening tangles. You should use a wide-toothed wig brush, as these brushes tend to work out tangles best. If you do not have a wig brush, any wide-toothed brush should work. Go slowly to avoid breaking the doll's hair as you comb. However, with a smaller doll like a Barbie doll, a fine-toothed comb may work better. If you're working on a doll with very long hair, consider working out bigger tangles or knots with your fingers before brushing. Rinse out the hair. Once the hair is brushed, rinse out the softener. You can simply rinse the doll's hair out under cool tap water in your sink. Make sure to get all the fabric softener out. If any softener is left in longterm, it could damage the hair. Periodically squeeze the hair to see if you notice any softener oozing out. Keep rinsing until no fabric softener is present. You can pat the doll's hair slightly dry with a clean towel. You can also let the hair air dry in the sun. Do not blow dry doll's hair. Doll hair is delicate and will not respond well to being dried with a hair dryer. Brush with a fine-toothed comb. Once the hair is somewhat dry, brush it out again. Use a fine-tooth comb this time, as this will straighten the doll's hair and work out small tangles. Brushing the hair one last time can also aid with the drying process. Fill a bowl or cup with cool water. You can use baby shampoo to soften a doll's hair. Pick a cup or bowl that's big enough to hold all of your doll's hair. The temperature of the water should be colder if your doll has curly hair. Hot or warm water can cause curls to loosen. Stir in a quarter teaspoon of baby shampoo. Once your bowl or cup is full of water, stir in a quarter teaspoon of baby shampoo. Mix the shampoo into the water until it has dissolved completely. Do not substitute regular shampoo for baby shampoo. Baby shampoo is mild enough to be safe for use on doll hair. If you do not have baby shampoo, try to buy some. You also may be able to get away with using a mild form of shampoo, like shampoo for sensitive skin or shampoo for hair that's been dyed recently. Shampoo the doll's hair. Once the bath is prepared, place the doll's hair in the water. Swirl the hair around until it's wet. Then, work in the shampoo using your fingers. Keep massaging the doll's hair until you work up a small lather. Leave the doll's hair in the bowl for 10 minutes. Once the doll's hair is shampooed, set the doll aside for about 10 minutes. This gives the shampoo a chance to soften the hair. This will help remove any tangles and leave the hair soft and shiny. Set the doll aside in a safe place where it's unlikely to be disturbed. Rinse the hair three times. After 10 minutes have passed, rinse the doll's hair. Empty the shampoo bowl, rinse it out, and then fill it with clean water. Rinse the doll's hair in the bowl until the water becomes soapy from the shampoo. Rinse the bowl again and repeat this process two more times. Make sure you get all the shampoo out. If the water still becomes soapy on the third rinse, run the doll's hair under tap water until all the shampoo is removed. Leaving shampoo in the doll's hair longterm could cause damage. Dry the hair a little. Once the hair is rinsed, you need to dry it out slightly. You should not brush hair when it's wet. You want to wait until it's damp to brush. To dry, you can hang the doll upside down and let the hair air dry a little. You can also pat the hair somewhat dry with a towel. Once again, do not use a hairdryer as this can damage your doll's hair. Brush out the hair. Once the hair is damp, start the brushing process. For a smaller doll, use a fine-toothed comb. For a larger doll, go for a wide-toothed wig brush or any wide-toothed brush. Brush slowly to avoid breaking or damaging the hair. On dolls with long hair, work out big tangles with your fingers. Remove all items from the doll. Before washing a doll's hair, make sure to remove any items from the hair. Dolls may have bows, bandanas, barrettes, or other accessories embedded in their hair. If a doll has been in storage for a long time, it may have items tangled deep in its hair. Spend some time fishing through a doll's hair to check for accessories before washing the hair. Brush your doll's hair regularly. If you want to prevent hair from becoming tangled or damaged, brush out your doll's hair regularly. After you or your child plays with the doll, comb out the hair before putting it away for the day. Comb a doll's hair as you would your own. Start at the bottom of the lock and work your way up to get out tangles. Avoid over-styling your doll's hair. Styling a doll's hair can be fun. However, messing a doll's hair too much can lead to tangles and damage. Stick to simple styles, like braids and ponytails, rather than trying to emulate fancy hairdos you've seen on TV or in the movies. This will keep your doll's hair smooth and soft. If doll hair is left in braids for longer than a few days it will start to dry out. Be careful and undo your doll's braids when you finish playing with her. Read manufacturer's instructions first, when possible. Before attempting to wash a doll's hair, read the manufacturer's instructions if you still have them. Some types of dolls come with special instructions for washing and hair care. American Girl dolls, for example, have hair that you should not wash on your own. The corporation provides a number you can call to ask for advice in the event your doll's hair is damaged. Be careful when washing dolls with mechanical parts. If a doll has mechanical parts, be careful before washing the doll's hair. Water can cause damage to a doll of this type. You may want to consider removing the hair or head, if possible, before washing. You can also wrap the doll's body in plastic wrap to protect it from water damage during the washing process.

Soak the hair in fabric softener. Comb out the hair with the fabric softener still in the hair. Rinse out the hair. Brush with a fine-toothed comb. Fill a bowl or cup with cool water. Stir in a quarter teaspoon of baby shampoo. Shampoo the doll's hair. Leave the doll's hair in the bowl for 10 minutes. Rinse the hair three times. Dry the hair a little. Brush out the hair. Remove all items from the doll. Brush your doll's hair regularly. Avoid over-styling your doll's hair. Read manufacturer's instructions first, when possible. Be careful when washing dolls with mechanical parts.

https://www.wikihow.com/Calculate-Annualized-Portfolio-Return

How to Calculate Annualized Portfolio Return

To calculate annualized portfolio return, start by subtracting your beginning portfolio value from your ending portfolio value. Then, divide the difference by the beginning value to get your overall return. Once you have your overall return, add 1 to that number. Next, divide 1 by the number of years you're measuring and write that number as an exponent next to your previous answer. Finally, raise your answer to the exponent and subtract 1 from that number to get your annualized return.

Find the difference between the beginning and ending values for each year. Subtract the value of the portfolio at the end of the year from the value of the portfolio at the beginning of the year, then divide that number by the value at the beginning of the year. This is your simple, or basic, rate of return. Multiply by 100 to find the percentage. For example, if the beginning value of your portfolio was $100,000 and your ending value was $105,000, your simple rate of return for that year would be 5%: ( 105 , 000 − 100 , 000 ) 100 , 000 = 0.05 x 100 = 5 % {\displaystyle {\frac {(105,000-100,000)}{100,000}}=0.05x100=5\%} If you earned any dividends, include those in your ending value. In the previous example, if you'd also earned $50 in dividends, your ending value would be $105,050. Add 1 to each rate and multiply them together. Start by adding 1 to each basic rate of return you've calculated for each year. Then, multiply those figures together to calculate the return for the entire time frame. This incorporates the way the value of your portfolio builds on itself, or compounds over time. For example, suppose you've had your portfolio for 4 years and your simple rates of return are 5% (0.05), 7% (0.07), 2% (0.02), and 4% (0.04). Your total return would be 1.19 (rounded): ( 1 + 0.05 ) x ( 1 + 0.07 ) x ( 1 + 0.02 ) x ( 1 + 0.04 ) = 1.1918 {\displaystyle (1+0.05)x(1+0.07)x(1+0.02)x(1+0.04)=1.1918} Raise the total rate by an exponent of 1/n. In the exponent position, "n" represents the number of years you included in your calculations. You're trying to find the average for any 1 of those years, so the exponent is represented as a fraction of 1 over the number of years. Continuing with the previous example, plug 1.1918 into your calculator and multiply by the exponent 1/4. Your answer should be 1.044. This calculation gets you a geometric average , which is simply an average of all the simple rates of return that also takes into account the compounding that occurs year after year. Subtract 1 and multiply by 100 to get the annualized rate of return. Now that you have your geometric average, you need to turn it into a percentage. Subtract 1 (this takes care of the 1s you previously added to each yearly return) to get your decimal. Then, multiply 100 to get your percentage. To continue with the example, your annualized rate would be 4.4%: ( 1.044 − 1 ) x 100 = 4.4 % {\displaystyle (1.044-1)x100=4.4\%} The full formula is ( ( ( 1 + R 1 ) x ( 1 + R 2 ) x ( 1 + R 3 ) x ( 1 + R 4 ) ) 1 n − 1 ) x 100 {\displaystyle (((1+R_{1})x(1+R_{2})x(1+R_{3})x(1+R_{4}))^{\frac {1}{n}}-1)x100} , where "R" is the rate of return for each investment period and "n" is the number of years. Use a different formula if you only have the initial and final values. To calculate the annualized portfolio return, divide the final value by the initial value, then raise that number by 1/n, where "n" is the number of years you held the investments. Then, subtract 1 and multiply by 100. For example, suppose your portfolio's initial value was $100,000 and the final value after 10 years is $150,000. Divide 150,000 by 100,000 to get 1.5. Then multiply 1.5 by the exponent of 1/10 to get 1.04. Subtract 1 to get 0.04, then multiply by 100. Your annualized rate of return is 4%: ( ( 150 , 000 / 100 , 000 ) 1 10 − 1 ) x 100 = 4 % {\displaystyle ((150,000/100,000)^{\frac {1}{10}}-1)x100=4\%} The full formula is ( ( f i n a l v a l u e o f i n v e s t m e n t i n i t i a l v a l u e o f i n v e s t m e n t ) 1 n − 1 ) x 100 {\displaystyle (({\frac {finalvalueofinvestment}{initialvalueofinvestment}})^{\frac {1}{n}}-1)x100} Enter your contributions or withdrawals in column A of a spreadsheet. Open a spreadsheet, then use column A to list each of your contributions or withdrawals to your portfolio, with your first value on row 1 (cell A1). Express withdrawals as negative numbers with a ( - ) in front of them. Put each contribution or withdrawal in a new cell. There's no need to combine cash flows for specific periods. For example, if you made 2 contributions and 1 withdrawal in a single year, you'd have 3 entries in 3 cells rather than just 1. Put the dates of the contributions or withdrawals in column B. Next to the corresponding value in column A, type the date that contribution or withdrawal was made in column B. Use the "date" function so the program recognizes the values as dates. In Excel, the date function is =DATE(Year,Month,Day). For example, if you made a contribution on January 15, 2020, you would enter "=DATE(2020,1,15)". Input the formula on a new row. Once you've entered all of your data, drop down a row and add the formula =XIRR(values,dates,[guess]). The 3 variables in the formula break down like this: The values you enter refers to the range of cells containing the contributions or withdrawals you made. For example, if you used column A, rows 1 - 20, you would enter "A1:A20". For the dates , use the range of cells in the column containing your dates, using the same formula as you used for the values. For example, "B1:B20". The third value is your guess as to what you think the IRR will be. If you don't have a guess, you can leave this blank. Excel defaults to 10% if no guess is given. Allow the program to compute the solution in the same cell. Once you enter the formula in the cell, the program uses an iterative technique, which involves trying different rates in a complex equation until the correct one is found. These iterations start with your guess rate (or the default 10%) and move up or down to find the annualized dollar-weighted rate of return. The program will display the result in the same cell where you entered the formula. The result Excel and other spreadsheet programs reach is accurate within 0.000001%, so it's a result you can rely on. Troubleshoot your data if you get an error. If you enter the formula and get an error message instead of a result, it usually means there's something wrong with the data you entered. If you get a "#VALUE" error, it means you have a date that isn't recognized as a valid date. A "#NUM!" error could result from any of the following: Your value and date arrays are different lengths Your arrays don't contain at least 1 positive and at least 1 negative value One of your dates comes before the first date entered in your array The calculation failed to converge (find a result) after 100 iterations

Find the difference between the beginning and ending values for each year. Add 1 to each rate and multiply them together. Raise the total rate by an exponent of 1/n. Subtract 1 and multiply by 100 to get the annualized rate of return. Use a different formula if you only have the initial and final values. Enter your contributions or withdrawals in column A of a spreadsheet. Put the dates of the contributions or withdrawals in column B. Input the formula on a new row. Allow the program to compute the solution in the same cell. Troubleshoot your data if you get an error.

https://www.wikihow.com/Plant-Durian-Seeds

How to Plant Durian Seeds

Unless you live in a warm climate with plenty of rainfall, you'll need to plant your durian seed indoors. Start by sealing your seed in a plastic bag with a soaked paper towel inside. Leave it somewhere that gets 4-6 hours of direct sunlight a day. After 4-5 days, or when the seed starts growing roots, place it on top of a pot filled with equal parts potting soil and organic compost. Don't bury the seed, just gently push it into the soil so it's still visible. Water the soil with 4-6 liters a day, spread out between the morning and afternoon. Make sure the temperature stays between 75 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit, since durian seeds can wither and die under 45 degrees.

Plant your seeds outdoors if you get lots of rainfall and high temperatures. Check the internet to find out your area's rainfall and average temperatures. Only plant your durian outside if you receive somewhere between 60–150 in (150–380 cm) of rain per year, and if the temperature stays above 45 °F (7 °C). Durian trees can wither and die quickly in temperatures any lower than 45 °F (7 °C). Wait for the hottest, rainiest part of the year to plant your seeds. Durian trees need copious amounts of water and high temperatures to survive. If you're planting your durian tree outside, be sure to plant it when your area is about to get a lot of heat and rain, in order to mimic the tropical conditions in which durian trees grow. Plant the durian tree in an area with full shade. Young durian trees can easily wither with too much sunlight. Find a spot where the durian tree can receive high temperatures without high sunlight. Consider planting the tree in the shadow of other trees. Measure the pH level of the soil before planting. To successfully grow durian, you must ensure that the soil under the tree isn't too alkaline or acidic. Perform a soil test to check your soil's pH balance. If your soil's pH balance is below 6.0, add a cup of dolomite or quick lime, then test it again. If your soil's pH balance is above 7.0, add a cup of peat moss or compost, then try again. Dig a hole 1.5 ft (46 cm) and combine the soil with compost. Dig up the soil where you want to plant your durian seed at least 1.5 ft (46 cm) down and across. Combine 1 part soil with 1 part organic compost and refill the hole with the mixture. This will ensure that your durian tree has well-draining organic soil to grow from. Set the seed directly from the fruit on top of the soil. Place the seed on top of the soil without burying it. Simply push the seed down a little with your finger; the majority of the seed should still be visible on top of the soil. Seeds from the durian fruit can be planted outside immediately after taking them out of the fruit, with no germination period necessary. The seed should sprout and attach itself to the soil after a day or 2. Weed around your durian tree once a day. Check for small weeds every day, as weeds will compete with the durian tree for water and nutrients. Pull weeds out with your hands, since more invasive techniques might scrape the durian's delicate roots. Plant your seeds in indoor pots if you live in a cold or dry climate. If your area doesn't get 60–150 in (150–380 cm) of rain per year or constant temperatures above 45 °F (7 °C), consider planting your durian inside in a 5 US gal (19 l) pot. Be sure to layer the bottom of the pot with pebbles to allow better drainage. When planting indoors, use a mix of 1 part potting soil and 1 part organic compost. This will ensure that your soil drains quickly enough for the durian tree to not drown or rot in standing water. Start your seeds in a plastic bag with a soaked paper towel. Put your seeds in a plastic bag with a soaked paper towel and seal the bag. This will allow the bag to develop condensation, which will keep the seeds moist and more likely to germinate. Place the bag in an area that gets 4-6 hours of direct sun. Try a windowsill or outside: the point is to get heat into the bag so that the water in the paper towel will evaporate, creating a water cycle that will nourish the seed. If you can't keep your seeds on a windowsill or outside, try keeping them under a grow light. Check for roots after 4-5 days. After 4-5 days, the durian seeds should be growing roots. Look for small yellow or brown tendrils coming out of the seeds and plant them when the roots are longer than the seed itself. Place the seeds on top of potting soil and compost in a pot. Gently push the seeds down onto the soil, but don't push them all the way in. Durian plants root themselves by standing up on top of the soil, so make sure you leave the majority of the seeds above the soil line. Water your durian tree every day. Make your durian tree is receiving 4–6 L (1.1–1.6 US gal) of water a day. Spread this water out between the morning and the afternoon. Once your durian tree starts producing fruit, increase this to 6–8 L (1.6–2.1 US gal). Keep the temperature around 75–85 °F (24–29 °C). A durian tree's native environment stays around 75–85 °F (24–29 °C), so if you want your plant to thrive, you should mimic that environment. Remember that durian plants can wither and die in temperatures below 45 °F (7 °C).

Plant your seeds outdoors if you get lots of rainfall and high temperatures. Wait for the hottest, rainiest part of the year to plant your seeds. Plant the durian tree in an area with full shade. Measure the pH level of the soil before planting. Dig a hole 1.5 ft (46 cm) and combine the soil with compost. Set the seed directly from the fruit on top of the soil. Weed around your durian tree once a day. Plant your seeds in indoor pots if you live in a cold or dry climate. Start your seeds in a plastic bag with a soaked paper towel. Place the bag in an area that gets 4-6 hours of direct sun. Check for roots after 4-5 days. Place the seeds on top of potting soil and compost in a pot. Water your durian tree every day. Keep the temperature around 75–85 °F (24–29 °C).

https://www.wikihow.com/Play-Pool

How to Play Pool

Pool is a 2-player game that's played on a pool table using pool balls and cues. The aim of the game is to sink all of your balls, either stripes or solids, and then sink the 8 ball before your opponent. To set up the game, fill the triangle, called a rack, with all 15 of the numbered balls, called object balls. Put the yellow 1 ball in front, the 8 ball behind it in the middle, and then put one solid on a back corner and one stripe on the other back corner. The order of the other balls should be random. Place the triangle at one end of the table and line up the 1 ball on the foot spot, which is where the second set of dots, called diamonds, on the longer sides of the table line up in the middle. Then, lift the rack up without disturbing the balls. The starting player breaks the balls by hitting the white ball, called the cue ball, from behind the headstring, which is the line created by the second set of diamonds on the opposite side. If the breaking player pockets a ball by knocking it into the one of the six holes on the table, they continue shooting. They can then shoot either a solid or stripe to select which set of balls they want to shoot, and the opponent takes the other set after they've legally pocketed a ball. If the first player misses, it's the next player's turn. Each player continues taking turns shooting. If a player knocks the 8 ball into a pocket before pocketing all of their other balls, they lose automatically. Once a player has pocketed all of their balls, then they can shoot the 8 ball. To win, the player must sink the 8 ball without fouling. Sinking the 8 ball on the break also gives the shooting player a win. Any shot where the cue ball goes into a pocket is a scratch, which is a term for a foul in pool. On a scratch, the opposing player picks the white cue ball up and places it anywhere on the table behind the headstring before taking their turn.They must shoot at a ball on the opposite side of the headstring from the cue ball. A scratch also occurs if a player fails to hit a ball, hits an opponent's ball or the 8 ball first, or fails to hit a rail or pocket a ball after making contact with one of their balls.

Familiarize yourself with the equipment. There are generally three things you'll be using: a cue stick, table, and pool balls. You can probably guess which is what. Pick a cue stick appropriate for your size. Most are 58 inches (147 cm) in length, but shorter and longer ones are available. The tip is the most important part of a cue (it's on the narrow end you'll be hitting with). Tips vary from soft to hard, though inexperienced pool players are best served with a medium to medium-soft tip. There are three standard sizes to a pool table: 7, 8, and 9 feet (2.7 m). The Billiard Congress of America defines a "regulation" pool table as any table that is twice as long as it is wide. For example, a 7-foot table is 7 feet (2.1 m) long and 3.5 feet (1.1 m) wide. If you are playing on a smaller table, you may want a shorter cue. As for the pool balls, there are evens and odds, solids and stripes, and, most importantly, the 8 ball and the cue ball. The cue ball is solid white, a bit heavier, and should be the only ball directly hit during the game. Learn the language. In order to play the game, you have to be able to understand the terminology and rules. Familiarizing yourself with the vocabulary of the game will make it easier and quicker to learn. The "break" happens at the beginning of the game when a player breaks up the fifteen pool balls. It is the first shot. Some players break straight on while others break at an angle. A scratch occurs when the cue ball jumps off the table or rolls into a pocket. Determine the scratch rules before you start any game. It is common for the player who did not receive the scratch to be allowed to place the cue ball anywhere in the "kitchen" upon their subsequent turn. This is the area between the head rail and the head string; or, more simply put, the area between the edge and the second set of diamonds. Get the rules down. For now, let's stick to standard 8-ball. Quite clearly, knowing the rules is the only way to win. Use the triangle to "rack up" the 15 pool balls. Different people have different preferences for the set up, but make sure the 8-ball is in the middle. A player breaks. If he or she makes a ball into a pocket, he or she claims that type (solid or stripes) for the duration of the game and shoots again. The other player receives the variation they did not claim. If the player makes a ball of each variation, they may choose which one they prefer. Both players sink all their pool balls into the pockets until just the 8 ball is left. The first player to sink the 8 ball is the winner. If a player inadvertently sinks a ball of the other player's, it counts to the other player's benefit. If a player inadvertently sinks the 8 ball before all their other balls are in, they lose. If a player scratches on the 8 ball, they automatically lose as well. Master the stroke. Each person has a different preferred hand position. If you are right-handed, hold the base of the stick with your right hand and rest the narrow end on your left. If you are left-handed, do the opposite. For a good hand position, try putting your index finger on the top of the stick (curving it) and put your thumb at the bottom of the stick. This is a good, basic way to put your hand in position because you have total control of the stick. Hold it tight as well. Some will prefer to rest the stick on their index finger while others may rest the cue in between their fingers in a flatter style. Experiment with a few to see what yields the best results. This hand will never move. Only move your back arm when shooting. Your feet should be a little wider than shoulder-width apart and at a 45-degree angle. During your practice strokes, your eyes should switch from the contact point on the cue ball to the point you're aiming for on the object ball. Make the shots. Line the pool tip up with the cue ball, aim, and hit away! Sounds easy, huh? As a beginner, focus on hitting the cue ball straight and with power. Aim as if you were to directly hit your object ball. See that spot you'd be hitting if you were allowed to? Alright. Now, aim to get the cue ball to that spot on your object ball. Experiment with slow, easy shots. Sometimes a softer touch helps your ball to ride the edge of the table or stay in a more defensive position. Switch it up. Now that you've got 8-ball down, why stop there? Try "Cutthroat Pool." Each player chooses a section of the numbers (if 2 players, 1-7 and 9-15; if 3 players, 1-5, 6-10, 11-15) on the correlating pool balls. The object of the game is to sink your opponent's balls and only have yours left on the table. The last one with a ball (or balls) on the table wins. Try 9-ball. This one can be a bit about luck, but that can be said about most games. The object of the game is to sink the balls in the pockets in numerical order, from 1-9. Each player takes turns going up to the 9 ball. The one to sink the 9 ball wins. One player could sink 1-8 and still lose. That's the beauty of it! Focus. Always focus and keep your eye on the ball. Tune out distractions as best you can. Don't get too confident or frustrated--the tables can turn in a second. Focus on improving your shot, not winning. Allow yourself a game to warm up. Once kids stop running around, the TV gets turned off, and your muscles start remembering what you've learned, you may see an improvement.

Familiarize yourself with the equipment. Learn the language. Get the rules down. Master the stroke. Make the shots. Switch it up. Focus.

https://www.wikihow.com/Do-a-Character-Reference-Sheet

How to Do a Character Reference Sheet

A character reference sheet is a good tool for keeping track of the various aspects of your character when writing fiction or developing characters for games. You can design your own sheet or find a template online. Start by drawing your character or writing a physical description of what they look like and how old they are. Then, list some major events that have shaped your character's life. For example, you might want to write down important friendships, romantic relationships, and family ties. After you have the basics, try going more in-depth with your character sheet. Jot down things that motivate your character, things that disappoint them, and what their dreams and needs are.

Write or draw a rough sketch of a character. Before you start your character sheet, write or draw a rough sketch of your character. The best character sheets tend to be specific to one particular story or person. Spend a bit getting acquainted with the character you want to outline in your sheet before writing it down. You may work on 1 character sheet at a time or work on multiple sheets simultaneously, which may be beneficial if you want to map out character relationships at the same time. Who is your character and what world does he or she exist in? A character sheet for a 28 year-old lawyer living in modern day Manhattan is obviously going to look vastly different than one for a 45 year-old wizard living in a fictional universe of your creation. Is your character male or female? What are the character's most notable physical characteristics? Does he or she have a family? A spouse? Friends? Draw a short picture if you're a visual learner or if you're doing a graphic novel or comic. This can help you get acquainted with your character. Keep in mind, this does not have to be terribly extensive yet. This is more of a brainstorming session to help you figure out what about the character would be helpful to know. Jot down a paragraph or two and consider what about the character needs further exploring. Figure out the basic events of your work. A character sheet should explore how your character has responded to past events. It should explore how he or she's been shaped by life. Spend some time figuring out the major events in your work. You do not need to have the entire plot of your novel outlined before making a character sheet. However, it might not be a bad idea to have some idea of what has happened to your character before the beginning of your story. Draft a short, personal history for your character. Keep in mind nothing is set in stone at this point. You can always change or adjust things down the road. Interpersonal relationships are also a huge part of your character's history. What kind of relationships has this person had with friends, romantic partners, family members, mentors, and more? Having a skeletal idea of the major relationships in your character's life can help you draft a solid character sheet. Fill out the basics. Make the first part of your sheet that asks for basic information. Things like name, age, and occupation are a great place to start when writing your own reference sheet. Start with the basics, such name, age, occupation, and physical description. Push yourself to be detailed about description. What is your character's style? What does their voice sound like? What sort of habits and mannerisms do they display? Then, focus on your characters basic qualities on a deeper level. What are your character's likes and dislikes? What is their marital status? Do they have children? Family? What is their occupation? Age? Are they introverted or extroverted, a leader or a follower? Ask more complicated questions. As you progress through your sheet, ask more complicated questions. Allow yourself to branch out freely and expand upon existing ideas. From here, push yourself to go more in depth. What conflicts does your character face? How has he or she reacted to events in the past? How have certain events shape your character? For example, say you're writing about a 58 year-old widower named Robin Leland with two kids. How is he affected by the death of his wife? Does this affect his present relationships with his children or other family members? How did he cope when his wife died? How does he cope now? How long has his wife been gone? What was their relationship like? As you can see, you can focus on one aspect of the past and branch out from there. Talk about interpersonal relationships. All characters have relationships with one another and the world that affect how they move through life. Focus on the major relationships your character has and ask questions specific to that relationship. For example, say Robin has a daughter named Rose who bears a striking resemblance to his late wife. How does this resemblance affect how Robin interacts with Rose? If Rose is, say, in her early teens how does Robin handle talking to her about puberty, dating, etc.? Do these topics make him uncomfortable? If so, why? Is Robin a more conservative man? As you can see, you can learn a lot about your character's personality by focusing on their relationships. Talk about underlying motivations. What drives your character and why? What is their main motivating factor? All good characters have something they want that drives their story. Talk about wants and needs. What does Robin want and why? Say his wife was killed by a drunk driver. Maybe Robin is taking initiative in his home town to reform drunk driving laws. But go deeper than that. Is Robin ignoring his grief by taking on this crusade? Is this a distraction from allowing himself to mourn for his wife? Ask questions specific to your work. As stated, a good character reference sheet is as specific as possible. There may be some questions that are specific to your story. Make sure to include these in your sheet. If you're creating a fantasy world, this is particularly relevant. If, for example, there are supernatural elements to your story you might need to include what powers your character has. In some stories, fighting and war is central to the plot. You might need to focus on things like the weaponry and fighting style of your character. Find a reference sheet that works with you. If you don't want to form your own sheet, you can find many pre-formatted sheets online. Pre-formatted reference sheets can save you a lot of time and may ask about information you wouldn't have otherwise considered. Choose a reference sheet that works for your project. If you're writing flash fiction, which is fiction that's generally 1,000 words or less, you may need a shorter reference sheet. It's easy to find reference sheets specifically formatted for works of flash fiction. They generally ask for basic information on physical appearance and personality. Short stories, which have a higher word count, will ask for more information from a character reference sheet. They'll generally ask for some back story and mannerisms in addition to the basics of physical description and character traits. Character sheets for novels and novellas are generally a lot longer as more information is required. They'll go into depth in regards to things like backstory and will also ask for information on religious beliefs, possessions, education, and more. Fill in the sheet with more information than you need. You may feel certain aspects of a character reference sheet feel irrelevant. Some aspects of your characters back story, for example, may not make it into the plot. However, it's better to have more information than you need. Knowing your characters well can make for richer writing. Even if you do not directly reference a particular aspect of your character's backstory or religious beliefs, they will show up in subtle ways in the subtext of your writing. Skip irrelevant parts of a reference sheet. However, keep in mind not every part of a reference sheet will be relevant in your story. For example, details about a character's clothing may never make it into the writing. Some sheets may ask for information about a character's weaponry and special skills, in case you're writing a fantasy, but if you're story is realistic this is not applicable to you. While you should strive to fill out a reference sheet as fully as possible, skip sections that have no relevance to the work you're writing. Push yourself to include a lot of information. A character reference sheet is important to a work of fiction. It allows you to get to know your character in as much detail as possible. Fill out your reference sheet with as much information as possible. Spend a few days coming back to your character sheet and adding new tidbits and facts about your character as they come to you. Allow yourself to get lost in the world you're creating. Keep reference sheets in a safe place to consult later on. As you begin the actual writing of your work, you'll need your reference sheet. Keep it on hand so you can consult it later on. It's a good idea to keep your reference sheet near the area where you usually write or work. It might be a good idea to get a specific folder to keep reference sheets so they don't get misplaced. Use pre-formatted reference sheets with care. Pre-formatted sheets are tempting because they save you some work. However, it's sometimes better to make your own sheet. This way, your reference sheet is specific to your story and will be as useful as possible to you. Some of the questions pre-formatted referenced sheets are somewhat vague. They often do not contain enough white space for you to really expand in too much detail. You want to make sure you don't oversimplify your characters by using a pre-formatted reference sheet. Certain questions on pre-formatted reference sheets may be irrelevant to your story. For example, if you're writing a screenplay intended to be acted out you only have so much control over what a character looks like. Very specific information about appearance is not really important. There is a lot of flexibility involved in a reference sheet you create yourself. As outlined above, one question branches into another and then another. This allows your story and character to grow organically.

Write or draw a rough sketch of a character. Figure out the basic events of your work. Fill out the basics. Ask more complicated questions. Ask questions specific to your work. Find a reference sheet that works with you. Fill in the sheet with more information than you need. Skip irrelevant parts of a reference sheet. Push yourself to include a lot of information. Keep reference sheets in a safe place to consult later on. Use pre-formatted reference sheets with care.

https://www.wikihow.com/Treat-Thinning-Hair

How to Treat Thinning Hair

If your hair is thinning, make sure you are getting plenty of protein and omega-3s in your diet so your body can create new hair. If your hair loss is due to stress, try getting more sleep and daily meditation to calm yourself down. Hormone-related hair loss can sometimes be treated with a cream like minoxidil, which is available as an over-the-counter cream or foam. If all else fails, ask your doctor about hair transplants or scalp surgery to cover any bald spots.

Use gentle hair products. When you notice your hair is thinning, making the switch to all-natural, gentle hair products is a good idea. Many shampoos, conditioners, hair sprays and other products contain chemicals that are hard on the scalp and hair and can speed up hair loss and damage the hair that's left. Use shampoo that doesn't contain sulfates or any type of alcohol. These ingredients are very drying and damaging to hair. Look for conditioner that doesn't contain silicones. These weigh down the hair and require sulfate shampoos to rinse out. Look in health food stores for hair styling products made with natural ingredients. Comb instead of brushing. Brushing your hair tends to pull more of it out, especially when you brush your hair while it's wet. The gentlest way to get the tangles out is by using a wide-tooth comb. Start near the tips of your hair, combing out the tangles at the bottom first, and work your way up to the roots. Let it air dry. To keep from pulling out too much hair after your shower, pat it gently with a soft towel - don't wring it out or towel it roughly. Let it air dry instead of using a hair dryer, since the heat from a hair dryer can cause hair to dry out and break. Letting your hair air dry as often as possible will help promote new hair growth. Use heat-free styling techniques. Along the same lines, avoid using curling irons, straightening irons, or any other type of hot styling tool to style your hair. Try embracing your natural hair texture and leaving it alone whenever possible. When you do use heat styling tools, use the lowest, coolest setting you can. There are plenty of ways to style your hair without heat - experiment with different ways to curl or straighten your hair and find out what method works for you. Avoid hairstyles that pull on your hair. Tight braids, weaves, and other pulled-back hairstyles can cause hair to pull out more easily. Try wearing your hair down or pulled back loosely. Avoid hair elastics and barrettes that might tug on your hair. Massage your scalp with a nutritional oil. Massaging your scalp can stimulate hair growth by increasing circulation around your hair follicles. Place the pads of your fingers on your scalp and rub your scalp in a circular motion. Start near your forehead and make your way along the sides and back of your head, concentrating on areas that are thinning. You can try egg oil , almond oil, mustard oil, coconut oil, or jojoba oil. Consider trying a hair growth treatment. The most popular hair growth treatment is minoxidil, which comes in the form of a cream or foam that is applied to the scalp twice a day. Many people experience some regrowth with minoxidil, but it can take up to 12 weeks to start working. You should be aware of the health risks associated with minoxidil, which are outlined by USFDA. Other options include the following: Hair transplants. Hairs are transplanted from an area of your scalp with thick growth to the areas that are thinning. Scalp surgery. Bald spots are surgically removed, and the incision is closed up with hair-covered scalp on either side. See if hormonal causes are at play. The most common cause of thinning hair for both men and women is a hereditary condition in which sex hormones cause hair to fall out in a particular pattern. While male or female pattern baldness is permanent, there are certainly measures you can take to slow it down and treat it. Sometimes hormonal fluctuations lead to impermanent hair loss. Women who are pregnant, have discontinued birth control, or are going through menopause may experience temporary hair thinning. Handling the hair gently, using all-natural hair products and changing your hairstyle can help slow the progression of hormone-related thinning. Determine if it's a medical condition. Certain medical conditions can cause hair loss. Treating these conditions can help slow or halt hair loss. If you are concerned you may have one of the following conditions, talk to your doctor about starting a treatment program so your hair will start growing back in. Conditions that cause hair thinning include: Thyroid issues -- when your thyroid isn't working properly, you might notice more hair falling out than usual. Scalp infections and skin disorders -- hair loss might result from a skin condition like ringworm. Treating the issue can help the hair grow back. Alopecia areata -- this is a disorder in which the body's immune system actually attacks hair follicles. Check your medications. Certain medications lead to hair loss. If you're on a medication that lists hair loss as a side effect, you can discuss other options with your doctor. It may not be possible to switch to another medication, but it's worth looking into. Drugs used to treat the following conditions commonly lead to hair thinning: Cancer Depression Heart problems Arthritis High blood pressure Figure out if stress is the culprit. Hair loss can result from physical or mental shock as well as ongoing stress. Any type of shock to the system is going to have a physical effect, and hair loss is a common occurrence when these conditions are at play. If you're chronically stressed, dealing the causes of your stress is an important way to keep yourself in good physical condition. Lower your stress. Since being stressed out can cause hair loss, taking measures to decrease your stress level might help to slow it down. If you lead a high-stress life, try the following measures to calm down on a daily basis: Get more sleep. Lack of sleep causes your body to produce the stress hormone cortisol. Exercise frequently. Try meditating or yoga. Eat more protein. It's one of the building blocks of your hair, and if you aren't getting enough, hair loss can occur. Thinning hair is common among vegetarians and vegans who aren't taking in enough protein. Try eating more of the following foods: Fish, chicken, beef, and pork Black beans, chickpeas, and other legumes Tofu Dairy products Eat omega-3s. The body needs omega-3 fatty acids to create new hair. Getting plenty of omega-3s is essential for hair growth, so try stepping up your intake of the following foods: Salmon Sardines Walnuts Avocados Take biotin supplements. Biotin is a B vitamin found in animal products that leads to healthy hair, skin and nails. Biotin supplements are often marketed as hair-growth supplements for this reason. Take biotin supplements as recommended or increase your intake of foods containing biotin, like liver and other meat products as well as walnuts and leafy greens.

Use gentle hair products. Comb instead of brushing. Let it air dry. Use heat-free styling techniques. Avoid hairstyles that pull on your hair. Massage your scalp with a nutritional oil. Consider trying a hair growth treatment. See if hormonal causes are at play. Determine if it's a medical condition. Check your medications. Figure out if stress is the culprit. Lower your stress. Eat more protein. Eat omega-3s. Take biotin supplements.

https://www.wikihow.com/Stop-a-Cat-from-Clawing-Furniture

How to Stop a Cat from Clawing Furniture

To stop a cat from clawing furniture, put a scratching post next to any furniture your cat likes to scratch. Then, rub some catnip on the posts so your cat is more interested in using them. If you catch your cat clawing the furniture, pick it up and move it to the nearest scratching post. You can also try putting double-sided tape on the furniture, which will deter your cat from scratching it since it won't like the feeling of the tape on its claws.

Appreciate the purpose of scratching or clawing. A cat doesn't scratch to give you grief. A cat scratches because it's a form of exercise for the cat's muscles from the claws right through to the legs, shoulders, and down the back. In addition, scratching also sharpens the cat's claws and cleans the exterior sheath. Cats also scratch to scent-mark territorial areas with their paws, which have scent glands usually indistinguishable to humans, but very distinct to other cats, dogs, and many other pets and animals. Be patient and be understanding. You love your cat and the precious bond both of you share. Cats know when you care and will reciprocate. They will do their best to please their human companions, provided they know they're supported and praised. Over time, with repeated loving practice, your cat should become used to leaving the furniture alone and using alternatives for their scratching. Purchase at least one scratching post (or other scratching apparatus) for your cat. A scratching post is the answer to your scratching problem, but it will take time to encourage your cat to use it. When purchasing the scratching post, there are some things to consider initially. Look for one that is at least as tall as your cat when he/she stands on his/her hind legs. Ensure that it is sturdy and cannot wobble when pressure is applied to it by your cat. Make sure that the scratching post isn't heavy and tall, or it may fall on your cat. Scratching boards and posts come in different sizes and uses. Some are flat on the floor and some are raised. Some are made of hemp. Try different types. It is better to have too many around, than not enough. Some cats prefer to scratch on a horizontal surface like the carpet. Orientate the scratch post horizontally or vertically to match their preference and they will be more likely to use it. There are cardboard, sisal, and carpet based options for horizontal surfaced scratching. Whatever you choose, avoid anything fluffy. A cat's scratching post must be like tree bark (their natural scratching element), rough and coarse. Posts with sisal fiber rope wound around them are best, and the scratchier it is, the less inviting your heirloom needlework pieces will seem. Locate scratching posts strategically. Figure out which pieces of furniture the cat has clawed and their locations. Make sure the scratching apparatus is prominently featured in the room and next to any furniture the cat seems to prefer scratching. If you have just gotten a cat, place the post where it might be likely that a new cat would try to scratch. If the cat is marking and scratching in multiple areas, create “good” scratching opportunities in each of those areas. It's a really good idea to have more than one scratching post, especially if you have upstairs and downstairs areas, your house is large, or you have more than one cat. This will lessen the probability that your cat will resort to furniture in other rooms without scratching posts. If your cat is always scratching the chair you sit in most, locate a scratching post near it. You could also leave a piece of your laundry on the top of the scratching post for a while, or use its top tray as a drop spot for personal items, so that your cat sees it as part of your territorial marker, like your favorite chair. This is especially relevant if your cat is extremely attached to one person in the household. Putting the scratching post or cat tree in close contact with their favorite sofa or chair can make it even more enticing. Train your cat to use the scratching post. Condition your kitten or cat to use the scratching post and nothing else for scratching. Encourage your cat to unleash his claws on the new scratching post by gently placing him in front of it. At the same time, gently stroke him and wait for him to respond to the post in front of him. If you want to make the post more inviting, rub catnip or spray catnip oil onto the post. Every time your cat uses the scratching post, offer it praise and give it a pat and a treat. Some suggest that you encourage your cat by gently placing his front paws onto the post and even moving the paws up and down on it, but warn that many cats hate being forced to do anything and this can have a very negative effect. Alternatively, you could even "show" your cat how to scratch using your own fingernails. You can also dangle a toy over the scratching post so that it bangs against the post. This should draw your cat's attention to the pole; In swiping at the toy, he or she may discover the joy of scratching the pole behind it. Another method of conditioning your cat to like their scratching post is to withhold your greeting upon returning home until you reach the scratching post. Stand at the post and scratch it with your nails, telling your cat how happy you are to see them. When they come near the post and start clawing it, stop scratching it yourself and start stroking the cat while they scratches the post, all the while praising them for being such a good cat. Adjust the position and type of the scratching post as needed. Feel free to move the post around a bit if your cat is not paying attention to it. Don't try to force the cat to like it as it is, instead personalize the post to your cat's likes. For instance, if you notice your cat exhibiting nervousness or dislike of the scratching post, try tilting it onto its side. This will make it smaller and less threatening while the cat gets used to it. Cats develop preferences for scratching surfaces or substrates. Use the surface your cat prefers. This may be sisal rope, carpeting, cardboard, or drapery fabric or something else entirely. Transitioning your cat to a new scratching post or surface will be much more successful if you work with your cat's tendencies, not against them. Use your tone of voice to correct their behavior. A sharp "NO!" whenever your cat goes anywhere near a clawed piece of furniture can help to reduce his interest in clawing it. Be aware, however, that the cat may only learn not to scratch when you are present, and may continue to scratch in your absence since they link the punishment directly to you. Another way to curb clawing is to toss a can of pebbles or pennies to land near the cat (do not throw it at them) to startle them. Try not to let the cat see that you threw it. This way, it appears triggered by the scratching, and has nothing to do with you. That way the cat is less likely to scratch when you are away, because they don't associate you directly with the punishment. Then, pick them up and place them next to the scratching pole as a means of conditioning. Don't sound angry or go into a nasty tirade against your cat; remember they are simply following instincts and you're the higher-level being with the ability to control your emotional outburst. Never scold your cat when they are near or using the scratching post. They need to associate the scratching post with all things pleasant and happy. Use water to stop your cat's bad behavior. If you have a spray bottle of water, you could try squirting your cat whenever they go near the furniture and start scratching it. Aim to do this before they start scratching but if not, squirt mid-scratch. This won't hurt the cat but it will help them to associate scratching that piece of furniture with a less-than-pleasant spritz of water! Again, this can also cause the cat to link your presence to getting sprayed, so they may do their scratching when you are not there. You can also use a citrus oil mix to deter your cat. Some cats are repelled by the scent of orange oil. Mix equal parts, about a cap-full each, of eucalyptus oil and orange oil in a spray bottle of water. You can test this on your cat by putting a small amount on a damp cloth and present it close to their nose. You will need to shake the contents before each use as the oil and water will separate after a short time. Using this method not only helps to deter your cat from destroying furniture or walls, but gives your house a pleasant and fragrant odor as well. Redirect your cat's attention. Sometimes you will just need to physically stop the cat from scratching. Remove them from where they are scratching and give them something else to do. Try giving them a toy to play with or petting them for awhile, whatever they enjoy more than scratching. Cover problem furniture. Some pieces just seem to get marked for special scratching treatment because they feel just right to your cat. In this case, there are several options you can try: Apply double-sided tape to the furniture. Cats dislike the sticky feeling and won't continue to stick their claws wherever it's sticky, as the hairless skin of the cat's paws is extremely sensitive to touch. For larger furniture, adhere masking tape over the arms, or on the back of the furniture where the cat will often enjoy playing (and hiding from water spritzing). For a larger area, such as a rug or carpet, leave contact sheets sticky side up over the surface you want to protect. You can also buy a product called "Sticky Paws," which are medical grade adhesive sticky strips that can go on curtains, drapes, carpets, and anything else that might be a bit too tempting for your cat. Use the “knobby” side of a plastic or vinyl floor runner along the back of the couch to deter scratching. The cat won't like the feel of the pointy knobs on their feet. For cats who seem to live it up when you're at work or away from home, cover the furniture in plastic covers. Cats are not fond of walking over plastic because of its smell and feel. You could also try placing blown-up balloons hidden underneath a sheet covering the furniture which will burst when clawed, causing the cat a fright that will be associated with that piece of furniture long after the balloon has popped. If buying new furniture, consider getting a tight weaved chenille or microfiber fabric as opposed to a tweed-like fabric. Cats will not be interested in those types of fabrics as they won't be able to get their claws through. Cats will scratch any furniture made with a thin loose-weaved fabric. Also consider using a “Scat mat” to deter cats from certain surfaces and areas. Consider creating a deterrent to certain areas with the help of a motion detector attached to a spray or ultrasonic noise. It is generally recommended to correct your cat remotely so that they do not associate the negative correction with you or other humans. Otherwise, you will create fear in the cat toward humans and likely train the cat to scratch in secret. These products can be found online at various retailers. Shut doors to rooms with very special furniture, furnishings, and objects. If you have antiques or furniture that is of great value, consider leaving it in a cat-free zone. Ensure that everyone in the family is aware that the cats must not be let into that area or room and always keep doors to these areas closed. Ask the humans in the house to take care rather than expecting the cat to know the difference between important furniture and less important furniture. If the cat does wander in, shoo him out abruptly so that he associates it with being "out of bounds." Keep your cat's claws neatly trimmed. Since part of the reason for scratching is to sharpen and even shorten claw growth, you can help out with a regular, careful trim of your cat's claws. If you don't know how to clip a cat's claws , ask your vet to show you how to do this the first time, as it is easy to hurt the cat badly if you don't what you're doing. A cat that is not used to claw clipping can be a little bothered by it initially but you need to persevere until they are comfortable with it. Again, praise your cat while your are trimming their claws so that they know you are caring. It is useful to "blunt" the tips of the claws of an indoor cat that never has access to outdoor trees. You can do this with toenail clippers (never use claw clippers made for dogs) but you must know the correct cutting line to avoid injuring the cat. Ask your veterinarian or a groomer to show you this for the first time. Use plastic caps to cover your cat’s nails. “Soft Paws” glued to your cat's nails will prevent the cat from damaging surfaces because the cap covers the sharp nail. You can glue these on yourself, or have your veterinarian do it for you. These caps will eventually fall off in three to six weeks and need to be reapplied. Allow your cat some outside time where possible. If your cat is already able to go in and out of the house, it is highly likely that they have found themselves a tree or two to scratch on. Encourage this (unless it's harming the tree) and continue to let them have appropriate outside time, as using nature for a scratching post will definitely reduce their desire to use your furniture as one. Consider the downsides and alternatives to declawing your cat before having it done. Declawing can be a quick and easy way to prevent furniture damage, however, it is a surgery, and like all medical procedures, comes with risks. While it is still legal to declaw a cat in most (but not all) cities in the United States and Canada, there are some ethical considerations. Declawing is considered to be an act of cruelty, and is thus illegal in Europe and other countries. A significant proportion of cats having undergone declawing refuse to use the cat litter, develop aggressive behaviour (mainly biting and hissing), and show signs of intense stress and fear. It also makes them more vulnerable to predators, and does not allow them to stretch properly. Do your research and make sure that you understand all that you need to know in order to make the decision to amputate the ends of your cat's toes. The declawing procedure involves amputating the digit at the last joint of your cat's front paws. Talk to your veterinarian if you think declawing is your choice. Some cats do fine but others suffer from chronic pain and, later, arthritis. Note that if you have a cat that goes outdoors, declawing their front paws may affect their ability to climb and defend themselves. Check the adoption or purchase contract for your cat. Some rescue groups and adoption agencies have “do not declaw” clauses in the contract you signed to allow your cat to live in your home.

Appreciate the purpose of scratching or clawing. Be patient and be understanding. Purchase at least one scratching post (or other scratching apparatus) for your cat. Locate scratching posts strategically. Train your cat to use the scratching post. Adjust the position and type of the scratching post as needed. Use your tone of voice to correct their behavior. Use water to stop your cat's bad behavior. Redirect your cat's attention. Cover problem furniture. Consider creating a deterrent to certain areas with the help of a motion detector attached to a spray or ultrasonic noise. Shut doors to rooms with very special furniture, furnishings, and objects. Keep your cat's claws neatly trimmed. Use plastic caps to cover your cat’s nails. Allow your cat some outside time where possible. Consider the downsides and alternatives to declawing your cat before having it done.

https://www.wikihow.com/Clean-a-Non%E2%80%90Self%E2%80%90Cleaning-Oven

How to Clean a Non‐Self‐Cleaning Oven

To clean a non-self-cleaning oven, first remove the racks from the oven. Then, decide if you want to use a commercial cleaning product or if you want to make your own with baking soda and water. If you choose a commercial cleaner, spray it on the inside of the oven before closing the door and letting it soak for 4 hours. Then wipe it down with a sponge and warm water and let it air dry. If you use the homemade mixture, apply it to the inside of the oven, then spray it with vinegar. Close the door and let it soak for 12 hours before wiping it off.

Remove the oven racks. Slide the oven racks out of your oven along with any other pans, thermometers or loose items inside. Set these aside to be cleaned separately. The oven should be off and completely cool when you clean it. Apply oven cleaner inside. Put on rubber gloves first. Spray or drizzle the oven cleaner on the bottom and sides of the oven. Some cleaning solutions can even be used on the glass in the door. Make sure to target any crusted spots or stains. Brands of oven cleaner that you can buy include Easy Off, Citrusafe, and Mr. Muscle. Look for “fume-free” oven cleaners. These will require less ventilation, and they are safer to use in the kitchen around pets and children. Close the oven door. You may need to leave the oven cleaner to soak for as long as four hours. Close the door of the oven to prevent fumes from escaping. Do not use or turn on the oven during this time. Fumes may still escape the oven. You should make sure that the room has plenty of ventilation by opening room doors and windows. Wipe cleaner off. Dampen a sponge with water, and wipe up all of the oven cleaner from the inside of the oven. You may need to scrub to get stains or burnt residue off the bottom. Rinse out the sponge, and wipe the oven down again until there are no more traces of cleaner. Let the oven dry. Leave the oven door open to let the oven completely air dry. This can take up to a few hours. Do not use the oven during this time. There should be no traces of oven cleaner left. If there are, wet a sponge, and wipe it up before letting the oven dry again. Mix baking soda and water. To make a paste, mix about ½ cup of baking soda with two or three tablespoons of water. You want to have a thick but smooth paste that you can easily spread on the bottom of the oven. If the solution is too thick, you can add more water. If it is too runny, you can add more baking soda. Double or triple the recipe based on how much cleaning solution you need for your oven. Spread the paste around the oven. Use a sponge to evenly coat the bottom and sides of the oven with the baking soda paste. Make sure that all stains and encrusted areas are covered with the paste. You can also clean the inside of the oven window with this mixture. Open the oven door so that it is flat, and spread out the paste on top of the window. Spray vinegar on the paste. Put distilled white vinegar in a spray bottle, and spray it over the baking soda paste. It will start to fizz. This process will help break down grease and stains caked onto the bottom of the oven. You can also do this step after the baking soda has sat for a few hours. This helps remove any remaining baking soda. Wait. Leave the baking soda paste on overnight or for at least twelve hours. This will let the baking soda break down grime, and it will make the stains easier to remove. Wipe up paste with a damp cloth. Use a warm, damp cloth to wipe up the baking soda. Most of the crust or stains should wipe up easily, but you may need to scrub to get harder stains out. If the bottom of your oven is very dirty, you may need to rinse out the sponge and wipe everything down again. Do this as needed until the oven is clean. If there are still crusted-on stains in hard to reach places, you can use a spatula to scrub them off. Place towels on the bottom of your bathtub. Take some old towels, and lay them over your bathtub, covering any space that might touch the oven racks. This will protect your tub from scratches and stains from the oven racks. Fill the bath with water and soap. Fill the bath with hot water. Mix half a cup of dishwashing liquid or powder into the water until the water is soapy. Leave the racks to soak for twelve hours. Place the oven racks in the bathtub, making sure that each rack is submerged under the water as much as possible. Leave them to soak overnight or up to twelve hours. Wipe down and rinse the racks. When you remove the racks, use a damp rag or sponge to wipe off grime, grease, and dirt. Rinse them with clean water from the shower or sink. To dry the racks, wipe them down with a dry rag or old towel before putting them back in the oven. You can remove the towels from the bathtub at this point, and wash them separately in a laundry machine.

Remove the oven racks. Apply oven cleaner inside. Close the oven door. Wipe cleaner off. Let the oven dry. Mix baking soda and water. Spread the paste around the oven. Spray vinegar on the paste. Wait. Wipe up paste with a damp cloth. Place towels on the bottom of your bathtub. Fill the bath with water and soap. Leave the racks to soak for twelve hours. Wipe down and rinse the racks.

https://www.wikihow.com/Keep-Cats-Off-Furniture

How to Keep Cats Off Furniture

To keep cats off of furniture, try placing some aluminum foil or double-sided tape on the furniture, which cats don't like to step on. You can also try setting a baking sheet on the edge of the furniture so when your cat jumps up it falls down and makes a loud noise. There are also commercial cat repellents you can spray your furniture with that will make it unappealing to your cat. Make sure your cat has plenty of space to play and some scratching posts so it's less tempted to climb on your furniture.

Make the furniture less appealing. Cats are drawn to furniture for a variety of reasons. A cat may jump on a couch near a window or get on a kitchen counter in search of food. Make your furniture less appealing by eliminating the built-in rewards cats seek by climbing on furniture. Keep blinds closed if you have furniture near windows. This way, cats will not be drawn to furniture to sunbathe or look out windows. Remove any excess padding from furniture when it's not in use. For example, after you get done lounging on your couch to watch a movie, remove any blankets or pillows you used. Keep surfaces in the kitchen free of food and other debris that cats will be drawn towards. Line furniture with tinfoil. Cats dislike slippery surfaces. When not in use, line furniture with tinfoil. This will deter your cat from jumping up on the furniture as they will dislike sliding around. This tends to work best with small bits of furniture, such as coffee tables. Try double-sided sticky tape. For non-fabric surfaces, place double-sided sticky tape in stripes or criss-cross patterns on things like coffee tables, mantels, and kitchen counters. If your cat finds their feet get sticky after jumping on a piece of furniture, they're more likely to stay off that furniture. Do not place double-sided sticky tape on leather furniture. It will leave residue behind that's difficult to get off. Use a spray. Repellent sprays often work great for fabric surfaces. If you want your cat off a couch or a chair, spray that surface down with a commercial cat repellent spray. Commercial sprays will not harm cats, but will contain oils and other scents that repel them from furniture. Follow the directions on a spray bottle closely and apply it to your furniture to keep cats down. Always test a spray on a small, unnoticeable patch of furniture first. Make sure it does not cause any damage or discoloration to the surface before applying it all over your furniture. Lay plastic floor mats over furniture. Plastic floor mats can be turned upside down and laid over furniture when it's not in use. Floor mats have small knobs on the bottoms that irritate a cat's feet. These knobs will not harm cats, but will be uncomfortable enough that your cat will be deterred from jumping on furniture. Use a motion-activated noisemaker. Set up the noisemaker near the furniture you don't want your cat to go on. Then, when your cat jumps up on the furniture, the noisemaker will emit a high-pitched sound that's unpleasant to cats. Over time, your cat will associate the furniture with the unpleasant noise. Create built-in punishment. Cats respond better to built-in punishment. Rather than punishing your cat after it gets on the furniture, leave something on the furniture to startle your cat. Place some lightweight cookie sheets on the edge of the couch or chair, for example, that's balanced near the edge. When your cat jumps up, they'll land on the trays and be startled. With time, this may discourage your cat from getting on counters. Get a clicker and target stick. Cats can be trained to move on command using clicker training and a target stick. You can buy a clicker for training at a local pet shop. A target stick is simply a long stick you use to guide your cat on and off surfaces. You can use any long stick you want, such as a wooden rod you would buy at a craft store. Teach the cat to follow the stick. To start, you want your cat to learn to follow the stick. Place the target stick near your cat's nose. As soon as it starts sniffing the stick, move the stick. If the cat follows the stick with their nose, click the clicker. Give the cat a reward, like a small treat. This will teach the cat it should follow the clicker stick to get rewarded. For a few days, spend short training intervals teaching your cat to follow the stick. Once your cat consistently follows the stick, you can train your cat to stay off furniture. Pick a command. Choose a command to use to get your cat off furniture. The command can be something like, "No" or "Get off." You want your cat to eventually jump off the furniture in response to this command. Guide the cat down when saying the command. Each time you see your cat on the furniture, get your training stick. Say your command while guiding your cat off the furniture. Reward your cat with a small treat when they obey. If you consistently guide your cat off furniture each time you see them on a couch or counter, they will eventually respond to the command without the help of treats or a training stick. Stay away from spray bottles. Many owners use a spray bottle to punish a cat when they get on furniture. However, spray bottles are unlikely to help much when training your cat. Your cat is unlikely to make the connection between the punishment and the behavior. A spray bottle also only succeeds in stressing your cat out. Stay away from spray bottles as a training tool. Make sure your cat has scratching posts. Cats need to scratch to keep their nails trim. Unwanted scratching and pawing is often the result of uncomfortably long claws or nails. Keep a scratching post in your home. This will give your cat an outlet to scratch and keep it off the furniture. Give your cat room to play. Cats may take over areas like furniture if they don't have space of their own. Have a room in your home, or a corner in one of your rooms, where you keep your cat's toys, food, and bed. When you play with your cat, play in this area. If your cat feels it has its own space, it's less likely to invade yours. Think about what kind of toys your cat likes the most and then fill its play area with them. The more you tailor the space to your cat, the more likely your cat is to spend time in it. Do not punish your cat. Punishing cats is rarely an effective means of keeping them off furniture. Yelling at your cat, or putting in its cage when it misbehaves, will only stress your cat out. Stick to positive reinforcement, like giving your cat a treat when they get down from furniture, over using punishment. If you don't reward your cat's good behavior, it's more likely to keep misbehaving. Play with your cat daily. Cats sometimes act out as a form of boredom. Make time each day to play with your cat to keep it active and entertained. The less bored your cat is, the less likely it is to resort to climbing on furniture for attention. Pick up some cat toys at your local pet store. Cats enjoy objects that are easy to bat around. They also tend to be attracted to noises. Pick up toys that do things like jingle, such as balls with bells in the them. You can tie a toy to a string a drag it off the floor. You can also throw items for your cat to chase.

Make the furniture less appealing. Line furniture with tinfoil. Try double-sided sticky tape. Use a spray. Lay plastic floor mats over furniture. Use a motion-activated noisemaker. Create built-in punishment. Get a clicker and target stick. Teach the cat to follow the stick. Pick a command. Guide the cat down when saying the command. Stay away from spray bottles. Make sure your cat has scratching posts. Give your cat room to play. Do not punish your cat. Play with your cat daily.

https://www.wikihow.com/Feed-Chickens

How to Feed Chickens

To feed chickens, start feeding them a grower feed once they're 8-10 weeks old. You can also start feeding them small amounts of kitchen scraps when you introduce the grower feed. Then, once your chickens reach 20 weeks, start feeding the laying hens a layer feed. If you're raising broiler chickens for meat, feed them broiler finisher pellets from 6 weeks of age until they're slaughtered.

Don’t feed chicks any food within one hour of their birth. Wait to start them on regular feed until they are one day old. Give newborn chicks a mixture of one gallon water to one-fourth cup sugar and possibly one tsp. of terramycin. Terramycin is an antibiotic that is used to treat bacterial infections. Purchase a starter feed from a supply store. These mixes should contain 20 percent protein, which is higher than the amount you will feed to older chickens. Feed them starter feed from day one to eight weeks old. Consider purchasing a medicated starter if your chicks have suffered from coccidiosis in the past. If they have been vaccinated, choose unmedicated starter feed. Set aside about 30 lbs. (14 kg) of starter feed to feed 10 chicks for six weeks. Change the starter feed to “grower feed” purchased from a feed supply store at 8 to 10 weeks. The protein level should be around 16 percent protein. Birds that will be used for meat can have up to 20 percent protein in their grower feed. Begin giving your chickens small kitchen scraps when they are 10 weeks old or bigger. Treats should be very small, since they will replace part of the nutritious grower feed that day. Chickens can eat just about anything such as toast, cereal, biscuits, corn, noodles and even meat! Place a bowl of grit nearby. Grit helps the chickens digest vegetable and fruit treats. Purchased feed is already mixed for adequate digestion without grit and free-range chickens don't need grit as they find plenty of things in the ground that helps them digest their food. Don’t feed chickens any layer feed before 18 weeks. The calcium content can hurt the kidneys and reduce the chicken's life span. Keep in mind that chickens only eat during the day. Cover any leftover food to protect it from pests at night. If you don't cover the food there is a chance that you will attract bugs, mice, rats and other creatures seeking for food. Begin feeding your laying hens layer feed at 20 weeks of age. You can also use all-purpose feed; however, layer feed can have up to 2 percent more protein and more calcium content to promote better eggshells. You will need 18 to 24 lbs. (8 to 11 kg) of feed per week for 10 chickens. You can purchase layer feed in pellet, mash or crumble forms, the choice is up to you. If the eggs turn soft provide the hens with more calcium. Keep in mind that it is common for a hens first egg to be a bit unusual such as double yolks and soft shells. Provide a supplemental source of calcium in a bowl. Crushed oyster shells or crushed eggshells can increase the calcium. Never mix the calcium into the layer feed. Give your layers limited treats each week to supplement their diet. The healthiest treats are mealworms, pumpkin and pumpkin seeds. Provide a bowl of grit (unless free-range) to help them digest it. Supplement a chicken’s diet with “scratch” in the winter. They eat more when it is cold out. Scratch is made of cracked corn, oats, wheat and other grains. It should be given in limited quantity and taken away almost entirely in the summer. Don’t feed your chickens citrus fruits, salty foods, rhubarb, chocolate, onion, garlic, lawn mower clippings, uncooked beans, avocado skins or pits, raw eggs, sugar/candy or raw green potato peels. These are toxic to chickens. Allow your chickens to graze around your lawn. Lawns with weeds and tender, young plants can increase nutrition. However, lawns sprayed with pesticides or featuring only one type of grass can take the place of more nutritious food sources. The benefits of having your chickens graze around your lawn is that they don't need to be provided grit and most of their diet is made up from the things they find inside the grass and ground. Purchase broiler starter for meat chickens until they are six weeks of age. This is different than layer starter. It has a protein content of 20 to 24 percent. You will need 30 to 50 lbs. (14 to 23 kg) of broiler starter for 10 chicks. Buy broiler finisher pellets to feed your chickens from six weeks until slaughter. The protein content is 16 to 20 percent. You will need 16 to 20 lbs. (7 to 9 kg) of feed for 10 birds. Consider making food available to your broiler chickens at night as well as in the day. Some birds that are bred for meat are given feed day and night, with light placed in their coops to encourage them to eat more. You may choose to do this near the end of their lives.

Don’t feed chicks any food within one hour of their birth. Give newborn chicks a mixture of one gallon water to one-fourth cup sugar and possibly one tsp. Purchase a starter feed from a supply store. Consider purchasing a medicated starter if your chicks have suffered from coccidiosis in the past. Set aside about 30 lbs. Change the starter feed to “grower feed” purchased from a feed supply store at 8 to 10 weeks. Begin giving your chickens small kitchen scraps when they are 10 weeks old or bigger. Place a bowl of grit nearby. Don’t feed chickens any layer feed before 18 weeks. Keep in mind that chickens only eat during the day. Begin feeding your laying hens layer feed at 20 weeks of age. Provide a supplemental source of calcium in a bowl. Give your layers limited treats each week to supplement their diet. Supplement a chicken’s diet with “scratch” in the winter. Don’t feed your chickens citrus fruits, salty foods, rhubarb, chocolate, onion, garlic, lawn mower clippings, uncooked beans, avocado skins or pits, raw eggs, sugar/candy or raw green potato peels. Allow your chickens to graze around your lawn. Purchase broiler starter for meat chickens until they are six weeks of age. Buy broiler finisher pellets to feed your chickens from six weeks until slaughter. Consider making food available to your broiler chickens at night as well as in the day.

https://www.wikihow.com/Quench-Thirst-Fast

How to Quench Thirst Fast

If you're dehydrated, you can quench your thirst fast by consuming a variety of liquids. Water is the best way to rehydrate yourself, but you can also drink sports drinks, fruit juice, or coconut water. Tea, coffee, and soda will also help to quench your thirst, although they won't hydrate you as well. Consume your drink cold to quench your thirst even faster. You can also eat fruits that contain a lot of water, such as watermelon, strawberries, and pineapple. Alternatively, blend a smoothie from water-rich vegetables like cucumber, lettuce, celery, and peppers.

Drink water. Water is by far the best choice for your body. Other than being refreshing, free, and easily accessible, it can also help you maintain a healthy weight. People who drink more water tend to take in fewer calories throughout the rest of the day. If plain water is too boring, mix in a sugar-free flavor additive or add slices of orange or cucumber. Consume tea or coffee. It's a myth that caffeinated beverages will dehydrate you. While caffeine itself is dehydrating, the water in tea and coffee more than makes up for it. Make it more refreshing by adding ice to create iced tea or iced coffee. Choose a sports drink. Sports beverages like Gatorade and Powerade contain electrolytes, which are important minerals that your body loses when it sweats. So if you're thirsty after exercising or being out in the heat, choose one of these high-sodium drinks. Drink a carbonated beverage. Carbonation can make a drink more refreshing and influence you to drink more liquid than you would have otherwise. It won't hydrate you any better than other beverages – it just quenches your thirst quickly. Opt for a diet soda or sparkling water in order to cut out any extra sugar. Try coconut water. The clear liquid in the center of a coconut is the coconut water, and it's become one of the fastest-growing beverage categories in the industry. It's not only refreshing but also packed with vitamins, nutrients, and electrolytes, so it's another good option for rehydrating after a workout. Make your beverages cold. Cold drinks have been shown to reduce thirst more effectively than warm or room temperature beverages. Add ice to your drink or store a pitcher of water in the fridge so you always have access to chilled water. If you need to chill a beverage quickly and don't want to water it down by putting ice in it, try placing it (in a sealed bottle or can) into a bowl with water, ice, and a generous amount of salt. This will chill it in about five minutes. For on-the-go cold drinks, fill a thermos or insulated water bottle with ice but no water. This will cause it to melt more slowly. Eat fruits like watermelon and strawberries. Watermelon is made of 92 percent water, and also contains several vitamins and minerals, like salt, that are important for rehydration. Strawberries have more water than any other berry and also have the added bonus of being packed with vitamin C. Other examples of water-rich fruits are cantaloupe, pineapple, and raspberries. Choose vegetables like cucumbers or celery. Cucumbers have the highest water content of any solid food (96 percent), so they're the perfect choice for quenching your thirst when you're not in the mood to drink anything. Celery is a close second, and the added crunch will give you some texture variety. Other example of water-rich vegetables are lettuce, spinach, and green peppers. Make a chilled soup. While soup may not seem like the most refreshing option, a cold soup made of cucumber, greek yogurt, mint, and ice cubes can be blended quickly for a hydrating and low-calorie meal. Try other cold soup recipes like watermelon gazpacho, tomato gazpacho, or cool avocado soup.

Drink water. Consume tea or coffee. Choose a sports drink. Drink a carbonated beverage. Try coconut water. Make your beverages cold. Eat fruits like watermelon and strawberries. Choose vegetables like cucumbers or celery. Make a chilled soup.

https://www.wikihow.com/Treat-a-Heart-Attack

How to Treat a Heart Attack

You or a loved one is likely having a heart attack if you feel: chest pain or pressure, lightheaded, short of breath, sweaty, nauseated, and tired. If anyone is experiencing these symptoms, call 911 immediately. While you wait, sit in the “W” position with your knees up and your back slightly reclined and supported. Use a blanket or jacket to remain warm, and take 300 mg of aspirin to thin the blood. If the person having a heart attack stops breathing, administer CPR until emergency services arrive. Unless you're CPR certified, focus on chest compressions -- aim for about 100 compressions per minute.

Understand that sometimes there are very subtle or no warning signs. Some heart attacks are sudden and intense and provide no warning signs or tell-tale symptoms. However, in most cases, there are at least subtle clues that usually get rationalized or marginalized. Early warning signs of heart disease include high blood pressure, sensation of chronic heartburn, reduced cardiovascular fitness, and a vague feeling of malaise or being unwell. These symptoms may start many days or weeks before the heart muscle gets damaged enough to become dysfunctional. Symptoms in women are particularly hard to recognize and are ignored or missed even more often. Major risk factors for heart disease, heart attack, and stroke include: high blood cholesterol levels, hypertension, diabetes, obesity, cigarette smoking and advancing age (65 years and older). A heart attack doesn't always lead to cardiac arrest (complete heart stoppage), but cardiac arrest is always indicative of a heart attack. Recognize the most common symptoms of a heart attack. Most heart attacks do not occur suddenly or "out of the blue." Instead, they typically start slowly with mild chest pain or discomfort that builds over many hours or even days. The chest pain (often described as intense pressure, squeezing or achiness) is located in the center of the chest and can be constant or intermittent. Other common symptoms of a heart attack include: shortness of breath, cold sweats (with pale or ashen skin), dizziness or lightheadedness, moderate-to-severe fatigue, nausea, abdominal pain and a sensation of severe indigestion. Not all people who experience heart attacks have the same symptoms or the same severity of symptoms — there's lots of variability. Some people also report feeling a sense of "doom" or "impending death" that is unique to the heart attack experience. Most people experiencing a heart attack (even a mild one) will collapse to the ground, or at least fall against something for support. Other common causes of chest pain don't typically lead to sudden collapse. Recognize some of the less common symptoms of a heart attack. In addition to the tell-tale symptoms of chest pain, shortness of breath, and cold sweats, there are some less common symptoms characteristic of myocardial infarction that you should be familiar with in order to better gauge the probability of heart failure. These symptoms include pain or discomfort in other areas of the body, such as the left arm (or sometimes both), mid-back (thoracic spine), front of the neck and/or lower jaw. Women are more likely than men to experience less common symptoms of heart attack, particularly mid-back pain, jaw pain, and nausea/vomiting. Other diseases and conditions can mimic some of the symptoms of heart attack, but the more signs and symptoms you experience, the greater the likelihood your heart is the cause. Call emergency services immediately. Act immediately and call 9-1-1 or other emergency services in your area if you suspect someone is having a heart attack. Even if they don't display all or even the majority of the signs and symptoms, calling for medical help is the most important action you can take for someone in severe distress. Emergency medical services (EMS) can begin treatment as soon as they arrive and are trained to revive someone whose heart has completely stopped. If you can't call 9-1-1 for some reason, ask a bystander to call and give you updates as to the estimated arrival of emergency services. Patients with chest pain and suspected heart attack who arrive by ambulance usually receive faster attention and treatment at hospitals. Put the person in a seated position, with knees raised. Most medical authorities recommend sitting a suspected heart attack sufferer down in the "W position" — semi-recumbent (sitting up at about 75 degrees to the ground) with knees bent. The person's back should be supported, perhaps with some pillows if at home or against a tree if outside. Once the person is in the W position, then loosen any loose clothing around his neck and chest (such as his necktie, scarf, or top buttons of his shirt) and try to keep him still and calm. You may not know what's causing his discomfort, but you can reassure him that medical help is on its way and that you'll stay with him at least until that point. The person should not be allowed to walk around. Keeping a person calm while having a heart attack is certainly a challenge, but avoid being too chatty and asking lots of irrelevant personal questions. The effort required to answer your questions may be too taxing to the person. While waiting for emergency help, keep the patient warm by covering him with a blanket or jacket. Ask the person if she carries nitroglycerine. People with a history of heart problems and angina (chest and arm pain from heart disease) are often prescribed nitroglycerine, which is a powerful vasodilator that causes large blood vessels to relax (dilate) so more oxygenated blood can reach the heart. Nitroglycerine also reduces the painful symptoms of a heart attack. People often carry their nitroglycerin with them, so ask if that's the case and then assist the person in taking it while waiting for emergency personnel to arrive. Nitroglycerin is available as little pills or a pump spray, both of which are administered under the tongue (sublingually). The spray (Nitrolingual) reportedly is faster acting because it's absorbed quicker than the pills. If unsure of the dosage, administer one nitroglycerine pill or two pumps of the spray under the tongue. After administration of nitroglycerine, the person may become dizzy, lightheaded, or faint soon after, so make sure she is secured, sitting down, and not in danger of falling and hitting her head. Administer some aspirin. If you or the heart attack sufferer has any aspirin, then administer it if there's no indication of allergy. Ask the person if he has an allergy and look for any medical bracelets on his wrists if he has trouble talking. Provided he is not younger than 18 years old, give him a 300 mg aspirin tablet to chew slowly. Aspirin is a type of non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drug (NSAID) that can reduce heart damage by "thinning" the blood, which means preventing it from clotting. Aspirin also reduces associated inflammation and helps reduce the pain of a heart attack. Chewing the aspirin allows the body to absorb it faster. Aspirin can be taken concurrently with nitroglycerine. A dose of 300 mg is either one adult tablet or two to four baby aspirins. Once at the hospital, stronger vasodilating, "clot-busting," anti-platelet and/or pain-relieving (morphine-based) drugs are given to people experiencing heart attacks. Initiate CPR if the person stops breathing. Cardiopulmonary resuscitation (CPR) involves chest compressions in order to help push some blood through the arteries (especially to the brain) combined with rescue breathing (mouth to mouth), which provides some oxygen to the lungs. Keep in mind that CPR has its limitations and doesn't usually trigger a heart to start beating again, but it can provide some precious oxygen to the brain and buy some time before emergency services arrive with their electrical defibrillators. Regardless, take a CPR class and at least learn the basics. When someone starts CPR before emergency support arrives, people have a better chance of surviving a heart attack or stroke. People not trained in CPR should only do chest compressions and avoid rescue breathing. If the person doesn't know how to effectively deliver rescue breathing, she will simply be wasting time and energy by improperly administering breaths that are not effective. Keep in mind that time is very important when an unconscious person stops breathing. Permanent brain damage begins after four to six minutes without getting oxygen, and death can occur as soon as four to six minutes after enough tissue is destroyed.

Understand that sometimes there are very subtle or no warning signs. Recognize the most common symptoms of a heart attack. Recognize some of the less common symptoms of a heart attack. Call emergency services immediately. Put the person in a seated position, with knees raised. Ask the person if she carries nitroglycerine. Administer some aspirin. Initiate CPR if the person stops breathing.

https://www.wikihow.com/Get-Rid-of-Crabgrass

How to Get Rid of Crabgrass

To get rid of crabgrass, pick it out by hand while it's still young and make sure to get out the roots so that it doesn't spread. Then, to prevent it from coming back, pile mulch over the area to create a barrier that new plants can't get through. For larger patches of crabgrass, spray the area with a postemergence herbicide to kill the plant and keep it from dropping any more seeds. Allow the herbicide 2 weeks to work, then spray the area again if any crabgrass is left.

Prevent crabgrass from growing in the first place with pre-emergent herbicides. Pre-emergent herbicides act by forming a chemical layer at the surface of the soil. As crabgrass seeds germinate, they take in the herbicide, which prevents them from sprouting and ultimately kills them. Apply pre-emergent herbicides in the late winter/early spring when soil temperatures stabilize at 55°F at a depth of 4". This should coincide with the blooming of the forsythia. Buy an inexpensive soil thermometer if you don't know when to time your herbicide application. Always apply the herbicide along with a starter fertilizer. Fertilizer helps thicken the turf, which in turn snuffs out crabgrass seeds that weren't killed by the fertilizer. Apply a starter fertilizer along with your herbicide and you're getting more bang for your buck. When using herbicides, be sure to read the label carefully. As small as the print is, you will find valuable information on time of application and safety precautions. Look for herbicides that use the following active ingredients: dithiopyr , prodiamine or pendimethalin. Reseed or use the herbicide, but never both. The herbicide that you use to snuff out unwanted crabgrass is the same stuff that will lay waste to the soft, pretty grass you actually want to cultivate. That means you have to seed during one season and use herbicide during another: Seed during the early fall and use herbicide during the spring, making sure to keep a buffer of at least 50 days in between. Apply post-emergent herbicides in the summer, if you see crabgrass. These will kill your grass as well so only use if you have more crabgrass than lawn or thick patches of it. Pick the crabgrass when they're still young. Crabgrass spreads quickly. If you let it grow for a whole season, or if you miss a particular area, you could find yourself with an infestation. Whenever you see a bit of crabgrass, simply pluck it out by hand. Picking crabgrass at a young age is effective at reigning the total population in. Young crabgrass has only two to four stalks and is showing no splayed head. If plucking, water the area with the crabgrass thoroughly beforehand. This loosens up the soil and increases your chances of pulling out all the root systems when plucking. Alternatively, you can also use a pair of pliers to grab and gently pull up the crabgrass. Mulch your soil after plucking. Mulching after removing the crabgrass by hand gives you a better shot at preventing the crabgrass roots from taking seed and growing willy-nilly all over again. What you're doing is creating another barrier that the crabgrass needs to break through. Areas left thin and spotty after pulling up the crabgrass can be re-seeded in the mulch by using seeds that match your current type of grass or turf. Resist picking mature crabgrass. Mature crabgrass has splayed seed heads with dozens, if not hundreds of seeds. Picking this crabgrass creates a divot in your lawn into which as many as 5,000 seeds — coming from a single plant — can fall. Instead of picking mature crabgrass, spray it or let it die naturally in the fall. Then cover the area with pre-emergent herbicide in the spring to keep the seeds from sprouting. Spray postemergence herbicide on larger patches of crabgrass that have not yet gone to seed. Postemergence herbicide takes about 2 weeks to fully work, which is roughly the same amount of time it can take for a seeding crabgrass plant to drop its seeds, nullifying the effect of the herbicide. Apply postemergence herbicide on a warm day with little or no wind. For best results, use the herbicide when the soil is damp but the crabgrass itself is dry. Water the area thoroughly in the late morning and wait until the afternoon to spray. Apply moderately in two spread-out application to avoid hurting your turf. Get prepared to spray at least two rounds of herbicide — per instruction, of course — unless the crabgrass is very young. Let your lawn gulp, not sip. Give your lawn a thorough watering about once a week — a big, nice gulp. This gulp, as opposed to frequent sips, will promote a more robust root system as well as one that's more heat tolerant. Mow your lawn at least weekly. Frequent (semiweekly) mowing cuts down as much as 80% of weed growth across all species. If you don't have the time to mow twice a week, mow once a week and leave the trimmings over the lawn to act as fertilizer. The trimmings will make it harder for crabgrass to sprout. If there are areas where the crabgrass is laying down, use a rake to pull it be before mowing. This helps remove immature seed heads. Use fertilizers without too much nitrogen in them. "Quick-up" fertilizers are a temporary solution; they'll get your lawn growing nice and green in the short term, but in the long term they actually deprive your lawn of nutrients, making the entrance for crabgrass easier. Use only about 2 to 4 pounds of nitrogen per 1,000 sq feet of lawn, depending on your lawn. Aerate your soil to loosen compaction. If your soil is suffering from compaction, the too-compact soil is cutting off circulation (air and water) to the root systems of your normal grass. Under these conditions, crabgrass and other forms of weeds thrive. Run an aerator over your lawn every season if you suspect it's too compact, especially if your soil contains high levels of clay. Overseed. Overseed your lawn to promote the right sort of growth. While you only have to overseed patches where crabgrass thrive, it might be helpful to overseed your entire lawn every two or three seasons. Clear out all dead crabgrass. Dead crabgrass can have an allelopathic effect, meaning it releases a toxin that stops other nearby plant growth. Completely remove any dead crabgrass plants from your lawn and dispose of them well away from your turf.

Prevent crabgrass from growing in the first place with pre-emergent herbicides. Apply pre-emergent herbicides in the late winter/early spring when soil temperatures stabilize at 55°F at a depth of 4". When using herbicides, be sure to read the label carefully. Reseed or use the herbicide, but never both. Apply post-emergent herbicides in the summer, if you see crabgrass. Pick the crabgrass when they're still young. Mulch your soil after plucking. Resist picking mature crabgrass. Spray postemergence herbicide on larger patches of crabgrass that have not yet gone to seed. Let your lawn gulp, not sip. Mow your lawn at least weekly. Use fertilizers without too much nitrogen in them. Aerate your soil to loosen compaction. Overseed. Clear out all dead crabgrass.

https://www.wikihow.com/Make-a-String-Bracelet

How to Make a String Bracelet

To make a simple string bracelet, cut 6 pieces of colorful embroidery thread a little longer than what you need to go around your wrist. Hold the strings together and tie a knot about 2 inches from one end, then use tape to secure the knotted end to a table. Separate the thread into 3 sections of 2 strings each, then braid the 3 strands together by criss-crossing them. Wrap the bracelet around your wrist and ask a friend to tie the ends in a secure knot!

Select your thread. Cut 6 pieces of embroidery thread long enough to fit around your wrist. Choose 6 different colors for a colorful bracelet or only 3 colors for a simpler look. Cut the thread longer than you need so there's room to tie the knots. Allow at least an extra 1 inch (2.5 cm) per knot. Use sharp scissors to cut all the threads to the same length. Wrap thread around your wrist to make sure it is long enough. Cut more than you need. You can always cut off the extra thread after you've finished the bracelet! Remember to leave enough string on the bracelet end to tie it around your wrist. Fasten the start point. Hold the strings together and tie a knot at one end. Line up each strand of thread, and hold them in one hand. Tie a basic overhand knot with 2 inches (5.1 cm) of loose thread on the end. This is the starting point of your bracelet, so make the knot nice and tight. You can arrange your strings in the prefered order before you tie the knot. This can make it easier to sort your colors later on but you don't need to do this. Secure the knot. Use tape to secure the knotted end to a table or steady surface. Tape the loose thread above the knot. Be sure the tape can hold it down and does not cover the knot. Pull on the thread to check that the tape is secure. You can use a clipboard instead of tape. Just clip the top of the knotted end on the clipboard so it doesn't move. Separate the thread into 3 groups of two strings each. If you're making the braid using 3 colors, group the colors so you have 3 pairs of the same color. Otherwise, group the strings in random pairs for 3 main strands. Start the bracelet. Braid the 3 strands by crossing each pair over one another. Cross the left pair of strings over the middle pair. Take the right pair of strings over the new middle pair to create a braid. Repeat this process to make the braid as long as you would like. Hold the strands in your hand as you braid to keep the string taut. For example, if you have 3 pairs of strings with the left yellow pair, the middle red pair, and the right blue pair, cross the yellow over the red, and then the blue over the yellow. Continue forming a braid. Work until the bracelet wraps around your wrist. Continue crossing the left over the middle, and the right over the middle. Braid the bracelet until you're happy with the length. Check that the braid wraps around your entire wrist, and leave loose string on either end to tie the final knot. Complete the bracelet. Tie a knot at the end to finish off the bracelet. Wrap the bracelet around your wrist and ask a friend to tie the knot. Be sure that your bracelet isn't too tight around your wrist. If you want to tie the knot before putting on the bracelet, make the bracelet long enough to slip over your knuckles. This knot is important to keep your bracelet together, so make it nice and tight. Consider creating a slip knot to allow an easy on and off bracelet. Choose 4 colors of embroidery thread. Cut them so that they fit around your wrist twice. The thread will be folded in half. Use sharp scissors to cut each string so they are all the same length. To make sure your string is long enough, fold it in half first, then see if it will wrap around your wrist with at least 4 inches (10 cm) of thread to spare. Fold the thread collection in half. Gather each thread together in one hand, making sure they're lined up. Tie a knot at the end where the fold is. When you make the knot, leave enough space so there's a small loop at the knotted end. Secure the start. Use tape to attach the knotted, looped end to a table or other furniture. Use a safety pin if you want to attach the bracelet to cloth furniture, or use a clipboard to keep the knot in place. It's important to secure the bracelet to a surface before you start so when you pull on the thread, the bracelet won't move. Line up the thread. Match up the thread so each side is a mirrored image of the other. Spread each strand out flat on the surface so they all have a match across from them. It's important to keep the strings in order to make the knotting process easier. For example, your colored strings can line up as red, blue, purple, yellow, yellow, purple, blue, red. Begin knotting. Form a knot in the shape of a 4 using the string on the far left. Hold the string to the far left in your hand and bring it over the strand next to it on the right so that you create a '4' shape. Then, pull the far-left string under the right string. Pull it through the loop to create a tight knot, also called a forward knot. To create a strong knot, pull the start string up towards the top of your bracelet until it no longer moves. Repeat the knot using the same two strings. Pull the far-left string over the string next to and then pulling it under to create a forward knot. Tying two of the same knot will help make your stripes of color look more defined once the bracelet is finished. Make 2 of the same knot with each a new string. Continue knotting. Move to the right creating forward knots until you get to the center of the strands. Once you've made two knots using the far-left and the second string, repeat the process using the far-left and the third string, then the fourth. Move across the line using the far-left string as the one creating the knots, stopping once you get to the fifth string. If your 8 strings are lined up as red, orange, yellow, green, green, yellow, orange, red, start by pulling the red string over the orange string. Loop it underneath and pull the red string through to make a knot. Repeat this twice with the red and orange strings. Next, make two new knots with the same red string, only this time going over the yellow string. You then pull the red string over the green twice, and leave it in the middle between the two green strings. Form the knot line. Create knots moving from the far right to the center of the strings. Take the string on the far right and create two backwards knots, which look like a backwards '4' shape. Use the far-right string to create backwards knots from the right to the left until you reach the middle strings. Knot the middle strings (which are both the same color) twice. Work the pattern. Knot the bracelet moving from the outside to the center until it's long enough to wear. Keep forming knots using the far-left and far-right strings until the center of the bracelet is reached each time. Add length this way until your bracelet is long enough to wear. Keep your strings in order so they're a mirrored image of each other each time you finish a row. Don't feel discouraged if your pattern doesn't appear right away. It takes a few rows to really get it going! Complete the end. Once you're finished with your chevron bracelet, pull all of the strands together and tie a tight knot at the bracelet end. Your bracelet is ready to be worn! You'll still need to tie the bracelet to your wrist once you've secured the loose thread. For an extra challenge, add a simple braid on the end of your bracelet with the loose thread before you tie it around your wrist. Choose and cut 4 colors of embroidery thread. Pick out 4 thread colors that you'd like to use. Measure each one so that it wraps around your wrist easily with an extra 5 inches (13 cm) at the end. The extra length is for knotting the ends and tying it around your wrist. Fasten the start point. Gather all of the pieces of string together so that they're lined up and are the same length. Tie a secure knot at one end, leaving 1–2 inches (2.5–5.1 cm) of loose thread and attach this end to a stable surface. Start knotting. Create two forward knots with the far left string. Spread out and separate the 4 strings and pick up the string to the far left. Cross this string over the one directly next to it on its right so that it creates a '4' shape. Pull the far-left string under the right string and through the loop, pulling the string up towards the top of the bracelet. This creates a tight knot. Do the exact same thing again, creating two of the same knots on top of one another. If you start with a blue string on the left, make sure it ends up on spot to the right of where it was originally after it's knotted. Make the knots using two strings of the same color if you want thicker stripes. Use the same string that you started with to form knots over the other strings. Once you've created knots using the first and second strings, continue using the original far-left string to create knots over the third string, and then the fourth string. Remember make two knots over each string, and\ pull them tight as you go. For example, if your colors are lined up as pink, yellow, red, and purple, tie a knot by crossing the pink over the yellow, the pink over the red, and then the pink over the purple. Repeat this process with the new string on the far left. Now that the first string used is on the far right, start up with the string that's now on the far left (this will be the original second string). Use this string to create two knots on every string, moving from the left to the right. Pull your knots tight as you go. You may have to make a few rows before the pattern starts to show. Make the desired length. Create stripes until the bracelet is long enough to wear. Form double knots moving left to right, starting over again once you've reached the end of the line of strings. Your bracelet will keep getting longer until it's the right length to be worn. To see if your bracelet is long enough, place your wrist in the middle of the bracelet and pull up the tied down end to avoid messing up the pattern of spread out strings. Complete the end. Tie a knot at the end of the striped pattern so it doesn't come undone. Once you're happy with the length of the bracelet, form a knot at the end close to the knots. Pull the final knot tightly so it doesn't come undone. Trim any spare thread from the end so that your bracelet is complete. Ask a friend to help you tie the finished bracelet around your wrist, or make the bracelet big enough to slip on and off. Choose 4 colors of embroidery thread. Cut each string to the same length. After you've picked out the colors that you want to use, cut the thread long enough that it can wrap around your wrist loosely, leaving an extra 5 inches (13 cm) at the end. The extra length is for tying the bracelet around your wrist. Secure the start. Fold the thread collection in half. Gather each thread together in one hand, making sure they're lined up. Tie a knot at the end where the fold is. When you make the knot, leave enough space so there's a small loop at the knotted end. Use tape to secure the bracelet to a table or hard surface. Do not to cover the knot you just made with the tape. Use one string, to form a knot around the other 7 strings. It doesn't matter which string you choose, but separate it so that one string is on the left and the 7 strings are in one cluster to the right. Knot by making a '4' shape after by pulling and looping the one string across and under the group of strings and bring it up through the loop to tie a tight knot. This knot in the shape of a '4' is called a forward knot. When you pull the string up through the loop to make the knot, tug it upwards to make the knot as tight as you can. Create 5-10 forward knots. Continue using the same single string to create knots on the group of other strings, counting the knots until you like the length of the colored section. Pull the knots tight for the best looking bracelet. Making multiple knots of the same string creates the spiral look in the bracelet. Choose a new string. Once you like the length of the first color, pick out another colored string. Repeat the process doing the same number of knots. This will make each colored section the same length. Continue until a strand is long enough to wear. Keep pulling out one color to wrap around the other 7 strings, switching the color pattern until you like the length of the bracelet. Repeat this with the other colors to create a knotted pattern. For example, you can create a bracelet with a knotted pattern of blue, green, purple, and white. Knot the end. Tie a secure knot to the finished bracelet before putting it on your wrist or ankle. Use scissors to trim the end of the thread to remove extra string before wearing your bracelet. Ask a friend to help tie the bracelet directly around your wrist. Make sure that the bracelet feels comfortable around your wrist before you tie it. Use a sliding knot if you want your bracelet adjustable.

Select your thread. Fasten the start point. Secure the knot. Separate the thread into 3 groups of two strings each. Start the bracelet. Continue forming a braid. Complete the bracelet. Choose 4 colors of embroidery thread. Fold the thread collection in half. Secure the start. Line up the thread. Begin knotting. Repeat the knot using the same two strings. Continue knotting. Form the knot line. Work the pattern. Complete the end. Choose and cut 4 colors of embroidery thread. Fasten the start point. Start knotting. Use the same string that you started with to form knots over the other strings. Repeat this process with the new string on the far left. Make the desired length. Complete the end. Choose 4 colors of embroidery thread. Secure the start. Use one string, to form a knot around the other 7 strings. Create 5-10 forward knots. Choose a new string. Continue until a strand is long enough to wear. Knot the end.

https://www.wikihow.com/Select-and-Store-Pomegranates

How to Select and Store Pomegranates

To select and store pomegranates, start by choosing pomegranates that are heavy and square shaped, which are signs that they're ripe and juicy. You should also try to avoid pomegranates that are bruised or broken. When you're ready to store your pomegranates, put them in your fridge where they'll last for a couple of months. If you plan on eating them soon, you can keep pomegranates at room temperature for up to a week. If you've already taken the seeds out of them, refrigerate the seeds in a plastic container or bag for up to 5 days.

Select a heavy pomegranate. While at the grocery store or farmers market, choose the heaviest pomegranates to purchase. The weight of the pomegranate signifies how juicy it is. Lighter pomegranates do not contain as much juice as heavier ones. Although you could weigh each pomegranate on a produce scale, you don't necessarily need to do so. Just grab one in each hand and continue comparing until you have found the heaviest ones. Choose a pomegranate with a deep colored rind. The rinds vary in shades of red, from bright to more brownish or even pink. The rind should also be glossy. While the shade of the rind doesn't signify anything about ripeness or flavor, the deeper the color, the better. Examine the shape. Unripe pomegranates are round, like apples. However, their shape changes slightly as the fruit ripens and the juice-filled seeds begin to expand outward and press against the insides of the pomegranates. A ripe pomegranate will have more of a square shape because the sides will be flattened (instead of rounded). Test the fruit for any soft areas. To be sure your pomegranates aren't bruised, hold each pomegranate and gently squeeze it. The pomegranates should be hard, with no mushy spots. Select pomegranates with smooth, unbroken surfaces. The rind should be soft enough to scratch. If so, you know you have a ripe pomegranate. Unripe pomegranates have very hard rinds that cannot be scratched. However, in very ripe pomegranates, the rind will be splitting open because the seeds are filled with juice and are expanding, which puts pressure on the outside of the pomegranate, causing the rind to split. You're more likely to find pomegranates like this at the end of Autumn, when they are ripest, and at your local farmers market (rather than the supermarket). Dress appropriately. Before de-seeding your pomegranate, you may want to grab an apron or change into an old shirt that you don't mind getting stained. The juice from pomegranates will stain your clothes, so you might not want to wear your favorite outfit while removing the seeds! Cut your pomegranate into quarters. The rind of pomegranates are hard, and you can't really peel a pomegranate because the seeds are nested into and attached to the internal membrane. To get to the edible part of the pomegranate, you'll need to cut into and through the rind. Cutting the pomegranate into quarters rather than halves will give you better access to the seeds. Fill a bowl with water. Select a bowl in which you can submerge your pomegranate quarters. A medium size mixing bowl should be deep enough. Leave enough space in the bowl to place your hands into it without causing the water to overflow. Place your quartered pomegranate in the water-filled bowl. Removing the seeds of the pomegranate in water is the easiest way to de-seed your fruit because the seeds are heavier than the membrane that surrounds the seeds. Thus, the seeds will sink to the bottom of the bowl, and the membrane will rise to the surface. Alternately, you can remove the seeds over the bowl and let the flesh and seeds drop into the bowl (rather than submerging the pomegranate in the water). This way, you can immediately dispose of the rind when you have removed all the seeds. Removing the seeds underwater, however, lessens the risk that you may drop part of the pomegranate onto your counter top and stain it. Separate the seeds from the flesh. While submerged in the water, hold the pomegranate quarter with one hand, and run the thumb of your other hand around the clumps of seeds. Once you have removed all the seeds, you can skim off the membrane from the top of the water with your hands or a small strainer. Remove the seeds from the bottom of the bowl in the same manner. Enjoy eating the plump seeds or prepare for storage! Refrigerate. Refrigerating your pomegranate rather than leaving it on your counter or in your fruit basket will help keep it fresher longer. You can expect your pomegranate to last for about two months if you keep it refrigerated. Store your pomegranate in a dry, cool place. It will last for about a month this way and for a week at room temperature. Refrigerate the seeds. After removing the seeds from your pomegranate , you can store them in the refrigerator for five days. Be sure, however, to seal them tightly in a container or plastic bag before storing them. Freeze the seeds. If you don't plan on eating your seeds within a few days, you can prolong the freshness by storing them in the freezer. Be sure the seeds are completely dry before freezing them. Otherwise, they will clump together. You can also flash freeze the seeds before freezing them in a storage bag. After drying any remaining water off the seeds, place them in a single layer on a wax-paper lined baking sheet. Freeze them on the baking sheet for two hours before storing them in a freezer bag. Pomegranate seeds can be stored in the freezer for about a year and are best if used within a year.

Select a heavy pomegranate. Choose a pomegranate with a deep colored rind. Examine the shape. Test the fruit for any soft areas. Select pomegranates with smooth, unbroken surfaces. Dress appropriately. Cut your pomegranate into quarters. Fill a bowl with water. Place your quartered pomegranate in the water-filled bowl. Separate the seeds from the flesh. Refrigerate. Store your pomegranate in a dry, cool place. Refrigerate the seeds. Freeze the seeds.

https://www.wikihow.com/Take-Isabgol

How to Take Isabgol

To take isabgol to treat constipation, take 1 to 2 teaspoons with 8 ounces of water once a day until you feel better. You can also treat diarrhea by mixing it with fresh curd and eating the mixture after a meal. Additionally, mix isabgol in water to help regulate your digestive system, especially if you're suffering from IBS. For a heart-healthy treatment, eat an isabgol wafer every morning right after a meal. You can also mix it with lemon water to help you lose weight.

Use isabgol to treat constipation. The primary benefit of isabgol is its ability to treat mild to moderate constipation. While it is believed to treat a range of other health troubles, these other uses are not approved for professional labeling purposes. Isabgol increases the amount of bulk in your stools. This increase in mass promotes movement through the intestines. Moreover, isabgol increases the amount of water in your stools. As a result, the stools become softer and easier to pass. Most studies suggest that isabgol does contribute an increase in stool weight and bowel movements per day, as well as a decrease in total gut transit time. This product has even been used as an ingredient in bulk laxatives. Follow the official instructions. If a doctor prescribed isabgol to you, follow his or her instructions regarding dosage amount and frequency. If you are using isabgol without being told to do so by a doctor, follow the directions provided on the label. Usually, you will need to take 1 to 2 tsp (5 to 10 ml) of isabgol with 8 oz (240 ml) of fluid daily until your constipation passes. The exact dosage may vary depending on age, medical condition, and response to treatment, however. It is highly recommended that you consult with your doctor before starting treatment with isabgol, no matter what you plan on using it for. If you have any concerns or questions, talk to your doctor or pharmacist. Take the supplement with a full glass of liquid. You can usually take isabgol as a powder, tablet, or wafer. No matter which form you take it in, you should always consume the supplement with 8 oz (240 ml) of water or another liquid to prevent choking. Swallow isabgol tablets with at least 8 oz (240 ml) of water. If you are using the powder, dissolve the powder in 8 oz (240 ml) of liquid. Add it to the liquid, stir well, and drink immediately, taking care not to inhale the powder. Note that isabgol can plump up and become thick if you allow it to sit and absorb the liquid. If you are taking isabgol wafers, chew them thoroughly before swallowing. Follow by drinking 8 oz (240 ml) of liquid. Treat diarrhea by mixing isabgol in curds. Mix roughly 2 tsp (10 ml) of isabgol with 3 tsp (15 ml) of fresh curd until well combined. Eat this mixture directly after a meal. Be sure to consult your doctor, though, before you try using isabgol in a curd form. Follow your curds with a full glass of water. This helps prevent choking. You should do this twice daily to see positive results. The consistency of curds causes the isabgol to react differently in the cut. Instead of softening the stools further, the isabgol adds bulk and helps solidify loose stools. The combination of curds and isabgol also gives your stomach a good dose of probiotics, which can help heal an underlying cause of diarrhea. In professional medical settings, this product is commonly used to treat diarrhea in patients who are tube fed. Rely on isabgol to regulate your digestive system. If you have some form of irritable bowl syndrome (IBS) or other chronic digestive problems, mix 2 tsp (10 ml) of isabgol in 8 oz (240 ml) of water and drink it immediately. Repeat at the same time every day until your disorder is under control. Isabgol can help those with IBS regulate their bowel movements and consistency. Since isabgol contains both soluble and insoluble fibers, it helps cleanse your stomach more regularly while enhancing your bowels' ability to push waste through quicker. A healthier, toxin-free stomach and a colon that regularly evacuates waste products will lead to an overall healthier, more regular digestive system within a few weeks. Relieve pain associated with anal fissures and hemorrhoids. Right before you go to sleep for the night, mix 2 tsp (10 ml) of powdered isabgol in warm water until dissolved. Drink the mixture immediately. The soluble and insoluble fibers in isabgol help clear your bowels. By absorbing water from the rest of the intestines, it isabgol also causes your stools to be softer, making them easier to pass without pain. Both anal fissures (tear and cracks in the anus) and hemorrhoids (also called "piles") can result due to chronic or acute constipation. If you continue to pass hard stools, these conditions can become more irritated and eventually worsen. Treat acid reflux. If you deal with acid reflux or any other condition resulting from high acidity in the stomach, take 2 tsp (10 ml) of isabgol mixed in 1/2 to 1 cup (120 to 240 ml) of cold milk after each meal. Both the milk and the isabgol help nullify excess acid. The husk of the isabgol coats the lining of the stomach, intestines, and lower esophagus. This coating limits the amount of burns and overall damage caused by high stomach acidity. Isabgol also regulates the amount of stomach acid secreted by the organ. Less stomach acid means less irritation. Lose weight by drinking it with lemon water. Mix 2 tsp (10 ml) of isabgol in 8 oz (240 ml) of warm water, along with 1 to 2 tsp (5 to 10 ml) of freshly-squeezed lemon juice. Prepare the mixture before a meal and drink it immediately. Similarly, you can drink the same mixture as soon as you wake up in the morning. The bulk produced by isabgol makes you feel fuller, so it is easier to eat less during a meal. Isabgol is also a colon cleanser, so it can help clean out any waste products clogging up your digestive system and slowing down your metabolism. Keep your heart healthy. Eat an isabgol wafer once a day immediately after a meal to help your heart health. Alternatively, you could take the isabgol as soon as you wake up in the morning for similar results. The fiber content in isabgol is believed t help reduce cholesterol in your system. Since the supplement is also low in fat, it does not contribute anything harmful to cholesterol problems. Theoretically, isabgol coats the walls of your intestines and helps prevent the blood from absorbing cholesterol from other foods you eat. As a result, the cholesterol levels in your blood drop. Battle diabetes by regularly consuming isabgol. Dissolve 1 to 2 tsp (5 to 10 ml) of powdered isabgol into 8 oz (240 ml) of milk or water after every meal. Do this on a regular basis. When your digestive system processes isabgol, a thick, gel-like substance forms and coats the walls of your intestines. This coating slows down the breakdown and absorption rate of glucose. Since your body will be absorbing glucose more evenly and slowly, your blood sugar is less likely to spike. When you have diabetes, you should avoid having isabgol with curds. Due to the imbalances in your body, the isabgol is more likely to cause constipation when taken with curds if you have diabetes.

Use isabgol to treat constipation. Follow the official instructions. Take the supplement with a full glass of liquid. Treat diarrhea by mixing isabgol in curds. Rely on isabgol to regulate your digestive system. Relieve pain associated with anal fissures and hemorrhoids. Treat acid reflux. Lose weight by drinking it with lemon water. Keep your heart healthy. Battle diabetes by regularly consuming isabgol.

https://www.wikihow.com/Lose-Weight-As-a-Teenager

How to Lose Weight As a Teenager

If you want to lose weight as a teenager, try bringing a healthy packed lunch to school and leaving your money at home so you're not tempted to buy junk food. When you find yourself getting hungry between meals, go for healthier snacks, like fruit, nuts, or Greek yogurt, to keep you going. You should also drink plenty of water every day, which helps reduce your appetite and keeps your digestive system healthy. If you want to lose weight quickly, try to exercise 3-4 times a week, whether it's walking, swimming, lifting weights, or playing your favorite sport.

Use a BMI scale to determine a healthy target weight for your height. Look online for a Body Mass Index (BMI) chart. Find your current height and age in the list or enter them into a form. You'll see 3 weight ranges labeled “normal” or “healthy,” “overweight,” and “obese.” If your current weight falls within either of the latter 2 categories, look towards the higher end of the “normal” weight category to determine what weight you'd like to reach. If you're already within the “normal” weight category, weight loss may not be healthy for you. Speak with a doctor before making any changes to your diet or lifestyle. Keep in mind that your natural body type will determine how your weight is distributed. Don't expect to look like another person with the same height and weight; each body is different. Set small, manageable goals at the start of your weight loss program. Instead of starting off with a highly ambitious or near-impossible weight loss goal like dropping 100 lb (45 kg) by the end of the season, begin with a small goal that you can realistically achieve. In general, most teens can aim to lose 1 to 2 lb (0.45 to 0.91 kg) per week, which will quickly add up over the weeks and months. Set yourself a small goal to lose between 5 to 10 lb (2.3 to 4.5 kg) in your first month. When you see smaller amounts of weight drop off, you'll start to feel more motivated to set and achieve new goals as time goes on. Don't be disheartened if you don't lose any weight in the first week. Stay positive and stick to your plan and you'll gradually start to see results. Keep a food and fitness diary to track your progress. By writing down each item you consume on a daily basis, you'll instantly become more aware of how quickly the calories can add up. Write a log of everything you eat, every exercise you do, and any weights or body measurements you take. Add up your total calorie intake at the end of each day and note how many calories you burned through exercise. Make note of any diet or lifestyle changes and refer back to the log to observe your progress. Try using a website or weight loss app to help record your diet and exercise. Many of these tools automatically estimate the amount of calories consumed or worked off for each line item. Analyze the contents of your food diary to see what's working and what isn't so you can adapt accordingly. For instance, if you notice that you always have a vending machine snack after swim practice, you can start bringing a piece of fruit along so you have something healthier to eat. Weigh yourself once per week in the morning. Step onto the scale on the same day each week, at the same time. To get the most consistent reading, weigh yourself in the morning before you eat breakfast and after you go to the bathroom. Measure around your waist, hips, thighs and upper arms, too, so you can see where you've lost fat. Weighing yourself every single day can lead to what scale obsession, or an unhealthy fixation on daily results. Water retention in the body can add as much as five pounds per day, so the scale can also be somewhat misleading. Remember that weight loss is an ongoing process. Developing healthy habits and losing weight takes months and years; it won't happen in a matter of days. Be kind to yourself along your weight loss journey. Emotions and stress can make weight loss feel like an uphill battle. But with a realistic set of small, manageable goals and a system for tracking your ongoing progress, focus on keeping a positive outlook. Celebrate each minor and major success and forgive yourself if you fall short of your goals or slip up from time to time. If you spend a day vegging in front of the TV instead of hitting the gym, don't beat yourself down. If you indulged in a bunch of junk food after a stressful exam, don't worry too much. Just make a commitment to getting back on track tomorrow! Give your body the right number of calories every day. The amount of calories you'll need to consume on a daily basis depends on your age, sex, height, and on how active your lifestyle is. Teen boys need anywhere from 2,000 to 3,000 calories per day while teen girls require 1,600 to 2,400 calories per day. Look online for charts listing caloric intake recommendations or speak with a doctor to determine a target number. Then, as you plan your meals and track your daily intake with your food diary, aim to eat no more than your target number of calories. A 14-year-old boy who's heavily involved in sports might need up to 3,000 calories, whereas his classmate who doesn't lead a very active lifestyle might need only 2,000. However, a 14-year old girl with a moderately active lifestyle would need about 2,000 calories per day as well. If you do eat too many calories on Monday, don't restrict your intake on Tuesday. This will only result in an unhealthy cycle of overeating and starving yourself. Cut sugary drinks out of your diet. Avoid drinking soda, sports and energy drinks, fruit juice, and sugary frozen drinks. Instead, stick with water or sugar-free beverages. Instead of drinking fruit juice from concentrate, try making your own fresh fruit juice at home with a juicer. Drink low-fat milk, too, to get some calcium into your diet. Drink about 8 glasses of water each day to stay hydrated. Keep a water bottle with you all day long and refill it frequently so you consume the equivalent of 8 8  fl oz (240 mL) glasses of water every day. For some flavor, try making fruit-infused water or brewing fruit tea which can be enjoyed hot or iced. Drinking enough water throughout the day will help you feel more full. Reduce your portion sizes at each meal. Ask for smaller portions at meal times or dish yourself about 30 to 50% less than you'd normally take. Limit the amount of food on your plate so you're not tempted to clear your plate. Try eating on a smaller plate, too. Remember that you can always go back for more if you're still hungry or if you haven't eaten enough calories. Instead of taking a whole chicken breast at dinner, cut it in half and save the rest for tomorrow's meal. Tell the lunch lady that you only want 1 scoop of casserole instead of the usual 2. Having less food on your plate doesn't mean you have to eat it fast. Chewing slowly will make your meal last longer and will help you lose weight. Also, by chewing thoroughly, your body will more easily digest the food you're eating. Fill your diet with whole foods, fresh fruits and veggies, and lean protein. Steer clear of processed snacks, sweet baked goods, and greasy junk foods. Aim to eat 5 servings of fruit and vegetables each day, and try to have them make up half of each meal. Opt for whole-grain bread, rice, and pastas as well as lean proteins like poultry and fish. End your meals with naturally sweet fruits instead of sugary desserts.. Pick baked, grilled, or steamed proteins over fried or breaded foods. Look for “light” or “low-calorie” options on restaurant menus when you go out to eat. This will ensure that you still have a great time and a delicious meal while sticking to your weight loss plan. Its okay to enjoy sweet treats in moderation. You don't need to cut your favorite pizza joint out of your life or refuse your friend's birthday cake. Have a slice every once in awhile, but stick to just the 1 slice. Skip the soda and swap potato chips carrots to make your overall meal healthier. Avoid eating when you’re full or feeling down. During a meal, pay attention to how your stomach feels. As soon as you start to feel full, put down your utensils and clear your plate so you aren't tempted to keep eating. If you're bored, upset, or tired, don't pick up a snack just to pass the time. Avoid indulging in midnight snacks; drink water or herbal tea to quench your cravings instead. If your friends tend to snack on junk foods, offer to bring a healthier snack like hummus for everyone to share. Eat 3 meals a day plus 1 or 2 healthy snacks. Refrain from skipping meals or starving yourself. Even if you have a busy lifestyle, focus on eating 3 complete but well-portioned meals throughout the day. If necessary, wake up 15 minutes earlier so you can have a nourishing breakfast of eggs, Greek yogurt, or fortified cereal and fresh fruit. In between meals, consume 1 or 2 high-fiber or high-protein snacks to help you stay full. Try munching on an apple, a packet of unsalted nuts, or a granola bar in between meals. Complete 1 hour of moderate physical activity each day. Before or after school, carve out some time for exercise. It doesn't matter if you lift weights, walk around your neighborhood, swim , or jog on a treadmill; you'll lose weight if you stay moving for about 60 minutes each day and burn more calories than you consume. Small spurts of exercise quickly add up. Try signing up for a 30-minute gym class at school, doing 10 minutes of basic stretches and aerobic exercises as soon as you get home, and going for a 20-minute run with your family dog in the evening. Rather than playing soccer video games with your friends after school, suggest that you all go out to the park and kick around a soccer ball. Join a sports team, gym, or fitness club to develop a fitness routine. Sports teams, group fitness classes, and clubs can make exercise more fun and will hold you accountable. Find an activity you enjoy and sign up for a group through your school or local community. Consider a competitive sporting team, an intramural sports team, or a group that just plays for fun. Don't be discouraged if the first few sessions of your fitness class are really tough. You'll build strength and stamina as the weeks go by. Walk, stand, and take the stairs when you can. Use a phone app or fitness tracker to calculate your daily step count. Start with a relatively low step goal, and each week increase it so you walk a little further. At home, work, and school, take the stairs rather than the elevator or escalator. When you're watching TV or studying for an exam, do this standing up. Or turn on your favorite song and dance around your room for a few minutes. Walk at a brisk pace but slow down if you start getting out of breath then slow down. Instead of slouching, stand or sit up straight to engage your core muscles. Standing will burn more calories than sitting. Rather than taking the bus or catching a ride to school, try bicycling to and from school if you live nearby.

Use a BMI scale to determine a healthy target weight for your height. Set small, manageable goals at the start of your weight loss program. Keep a food and fitness diary to track your progress. Weigh yourself once per week in the morning. Be kind to yourself along your weight loss journey. Give your body the right number of calories every day. Cut sugary drinks out of your diet. Drink about 8 glasses of water each day to stay hydrated. Reduce your portion sizes at each meal. Fill your diet with whole foods, fresh fruits and veggies, and lean protein. Avoid eating when you’re full or feeling down. Eat 3 meals a day plus 1 or 2 healthy snacks. Complete 1 hour of moderate physical activity each day. Join a sports team, gym, or fitness club to develop a fitness routine. Walk, stand, and take the stairs when you can.

https://www.wikihow.com/Wear-Contact-Lenses

How to Wear Contact Lenses

Before putting your contacts in, wash your hands, then place the lens on the tip of your index finger with the cup side facing up. While you're looking in the mirror, use your middle finger to pull down the lower eyelid and lashes. Next, place the bottom edge onto the surface of the white part of your eye just above where you pulled your lower lid down. Then, press the contact until you feel it stick and blink to adjust it to the correct position.

Get an eye exam. If you are interested in wearing contact lenses, get a thorough eye exam to determine exactly what type of corrective lenses you need. Contact lenses can correct: Myopia. People who are myopic can see well close up, but objects far away are blurry. Hyperopia. In this condition, people see well at a distance, but objects close to them are blurry. Presbyopia. This condition occurs when people have more trouble seeing close up as they age. It often begins around age 40. Astigmatism. This occurs when the eye is not shaped correctly. It causes blurred vision. Color blindness. Color blindness occurs when people are unable to perceive some colors, or confuse two colors with each other. Red/green color blindness, which means you confuse the colors red and green together, is most common in men. Determine what type of contacts you want. Some can only be worn in the day, others can only be worn in the night. The eye doctor will measure your eye to make sure you get contacts that fit and are comfortable. Once you know what you need there are several types to choose from: Soft contact lenses. These contacts are flexible and bend to fit your eye. They can correct myopia, hyperopia, astigmatism, presbyopia, or combinations of these conditions. They are good for people who play sports and are active. Hard contact lenses. These lenses may provide a better image than soft lenses and can be used for most eye conditions. They also have a lower risk of eye infections because they are gas permeable. This means that your eye can breathe through them. If you keep them clean, they can sometimes be used for up to three years; however, some people find them uncomfortable. Hybrid contacts. These contacts have a hard center and soft outer part. They are particularly good for people with keratoconus, or irregularly curved corneas. Evaluate what works best with your lifestyle and budget. Hard contacts have the advantage that you can continue using the same pair for up to three years if your prescription stays the same; however, some people find soft contacts more comfortable. If you choose soft contact lenses, there are several types you can choose depending on your lifestyle and budget. Daily wear contacts: These are usually the cheapest option, but they require more care. You have to take them out each night and clean them. Daily wear disposable contacts: These are worn for one day only, then thrown out. Extended wear contacts: These contacts can be left in overnight for up to a week. This option is good for people who are too busy or can't remember to take them out each night; however, they are not good for people who are prone to eye infections or allergies. Some brands may even be approved to wear continuously for 30 days. Disposable contacts: These contacts require the least effort to wear. These are worn daily (so they must be removed at night) and are good for a certain period, from weeks to months, depending on the type you have. This makes them more expensive. Don’t wear costume contact lenses. While contacts that change your eye color or pupil shape may be fun, they can harm your eyes. If you want colored lenses, optometrist can give a valid Rx for cosmetic contact lenses that are safe to use on a limited basis under the direction of an eye doctor. Contact lenses are medical devices that are quality controlled by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA). In order for contacts to fit you properly and safely, your eye must first be measured by an eye doctor. Stores that sell costume contacts without prescriptions are doing so illegally. Improperly fitting contacts can scratch the surface of your eye, cause infections, and even in severe cases, blindness. Do not buy non-prescription contacts from street vendors, Halloween shops, beauty salons, convenience stores, or online vendors that do not require prescriptions. Insert your contacts safely. It may take some practice, but after a few days, you will be able to do it quickly and easily. Follow these steps: Wash and dry your hands. This will make sure you don't transfer dirt or bacteria into your eye, which can cause an infection. Put the contact lens on the tip of your index finger with the concave, cup side facing up. While looking in the mirror, use your middle finger to pull down your lower eyelid and lashes. Place the contact onto the surface of your eye. The bottom edge of the contact should be the first part to touch your eye. It should do so on the white part of your eye just above where you have pulled your lower lid down. Press the contact onto the surface of your eye until you feel it stick. When you take your finger away, the contact should float on the surface of your eye. Blink to adjust it to the correct position. If you are inserting your contacts for the first time, your doctor may suggest that you wear them for only an hour the first day and then wear them for longer periods of time. This will give your eyes a chance to get used to them. Remove your contacts quickly and easily. Removing your contacts is important because it gives your eye a chance to breathe. Some contacts should be removed every night. To remove your contacts: Wash and dry your hands. Use your middle finger to pull your lower eyelid down. Gently pinch the lens off the surface of your eye using your index finger and thumb. This should not hurt; however, while you are learning, it might be best to keep your fingernails trimmed. This will prevent you from hurting yourself or accidentally tearing the lens. For some lenses, you can use a plunger (DMV), which makes it much easier to take out your contacts: just take the plunger, stick it onto the contacts, and remove them. Ask the provider of your contacts if they have one that you can have or buy. Take out your contacts if you have an eye injury or infection. An injury or infection requires immediate care. Have someone drive you to an emergency room. Do not drive yourself. Get care immediately if you experience: Pain Sudden vision problems like blurring or dark patches in your field of vision Sensitivity to light Bleeding or discharge from the eye Swelling or extreme itching of the eye and eyelids. Throw out any contacts you were wearing during the infection to prevent re-infecting yourself later. Avoid dry eye by using lubricants. Dry eye happens when your eyes don't produce enough tears. It can be scratchy, itchy, sting, or burn. Your eyes may also look red. There are several over-the-counter products that may provide relief: Contact lens re-wetting drops or preservative-free artificial tears. Contact lens re-wetting drops that have preservatives are OK to use, but avoid using artificial tears that have preservatives since they can lead to build up on your lenses and cause irritation. Eye ointments. Ointments are thicker than eye drops and may interfere with your vision. Because of this, don't use them at times when you need to drive or read. Many people use them before bed. If eye drops and eye ointments don't help your dry eyes, ask your eye doctor about special contacts that can help prevent dry eye. They are called scleral lenses and they don't absorb moisture like softer contact lenses do, making them a good option if you suffer from dry eyes. Get regular eye exams. Your eye doctor may want you to do several follow up exams to make sure that your contacts are the right fit for you. You might need a check up after the first week, month, or half year. Afterwards, your doctor will probably recommend an appointment once a year to make sure your prescription hasn't changed. Wash your hands. Don't touch your contacts with unclean hands. If you do, you are transferring dirt and bacteria into your eyes. Before handling your contacts you should: Wash your hands with soap to remove oils, dirt and bacteria. If you transfer these to your contacts, it could cause an eye infection. Rinse your hands thoroughly. If you get soap in your contacts it will sting when you put your contacts in. Dry your hands with a clean towel. Tap water hasn't been sterilized so you don't want to transfer it to your contacts and then to your eye. Use a sterile, commercially prepared contact solution. This will be sterilized to prevent eye infections and chemically balanced to match the chemistry of your eye. This makes it both safer, better for your contacts, and less likely to sting. They are available at local drug stores and grocery stores. Ask your eye doctor if there is a particular one that she recommends for your type of lenses. Do not use a homemade saline solution. It isn't sterilized, won't have the right concentration of salt, and may have other traces of minerals or chemicals. This could cause eye infections or damage the lenses. Do not use bottled or tap water. Even purified water is not sufficiently sterile. In addition, it will probably sting because it won't have the correct salt concentration. Do not use saliva. Saliva contains bacteria, enzymes, and many other contaminants which could increase your risk of an eye infection or damage the lenses. Do not top up the contact lens solution when you soak or store your contacts. Change the solution instead to prevent the buildup of bacteria. Do not use expired contact solution. If your contact solution has expired, throw it out and get new solution. It isn't worth risking an eye infection. Rub the contacts to remove dirt, bacteria and proteins. Put the contact in the palm of your hand and rinse it with contact solution while using your index finger to rub it. This will remove proteins, bacteria and dust that might have collected on it as you wore it. Keep your fingernails filed to prevent them from piercing and tearing the lens. If you do have long nails , you can use certain techniques to safely remove your contacts. It is best to rub them, even if you have a “no-rub” solution. Do this as often as your type of lenses require. Follow the manufacturer's instructions on the lenses and contact solution, in addition to any recommendations from your doctor.

Get an eye exam. Determine what type of contacts you want. Evaluate what works best with your lifestyle and budget. Don’t wear costume contact lenses. Insert your contacts safely. Remove your contacts quickly and easily. Take out your contacts if you have an eye injury or infection. Avoid dry eye by using lubricants. Get regular eye exams. Wash your hands. Use a sterile, commercially prepared contact solution. Rub the contacts to remove dirt, bacteria and proteins.

https://www.wikihow.com/Deal-With-a-Sore-Tooth

How to Deal With a Sore Tooth

To deal with a sore tooth, check to see if the pain is being caused by debris wedged between your teeth, which you can remove with floss. Alternatively, take an over-the-counter painkiller, like ibuprofen or aspirin, if the pain is caused by tooth decay. You can also try applying a cold compress to your cheek, or applying clove oil, which has anesthetic properties. If you've experienced pain for more than 2 days or notice an infection, make an appointment with your dentist, since an infection can have serious health consequences if left untreated.

Determine the cause if you can. Tooth pain can sometimes be caused by something as simple as a bit of food wedged between two teeth or tooth and gum. If you can determine the source of your tooth pain, you may be able to alleviate it yourself at home. In addition to food or debris caught in the teeth or gums, common causes of a sore tooth include: an infection of the tooth, root, or gums; mouth trauma that causes tooth damage; an emerging crack or split in the tooth; teething (in children); or a sinus infection that causes mouth pain. Remove debris if that is the cause. If you determine that food or other debris is the cause of your sore tooth, and you can remove it with care and without causing substantial additional pain, you might save yourself a trip to the dentist (and the subsequent bill). Rinse your mouth vigorously with warm water in an attempt to dislodge the debris. Use floss to try to dislodge the debris. Dentists prefer this to using a toothpick or similar item, as they are more likely to damage the teeth or gums. Contact your dentist if the debris cannot be removed and is causing significant pain. Eat sensibly to prevent more pain. Particularly if your tooth pain is caused by a crack or chip, you should avoid eating foods that are too hot or cold, foods that can easily stick on or around teeth, and foods that can further damage a tooth. Save the jawbreakers and salt-water taffy for another time, and let your coffee cool down at bit. Sensitivity to cold items, such as a shaved-ice treat, can be particularly painful, especially if you follow a warm food item with a frosty one. Take note of food types or temperatures that are causing pain, however, so that you can tell your dentist should you need to visit. Take an over-the-counter pain reliever. If your tooth pain is caused by tooth decay, injury, or infection, pain medication may alleviate your symptoms. Acetaminophen (Tylenol) is a pain reliever that is commonly used for toothaches. Ibuprofen (Advil) and naproxen (Aleve) also are pain relievers as well as anti-inflammatory drugs. You may benefit from an anti-inflammatory medicine if you have inflamed and sore gums. Take the medication as directed. Never exceed the maximum dosage listed on the box during a 24 hour period. Don't apply an oral pain reliever like aspirin directly to the sore tooth or gums. Try (with caution) an oral anesthetic gel containing benzocaine. Sold under brand names including Orajel and Anbesol, these medications can be applied directly to your sore tooth and the surrounding gums. Be careful of an allergy to a local anesthetic. Many people, historically, are allergic to ester-based local anesthesia, like benzocaine. If you think you might be allergic, consult your doctor as soon as possible. This will provide temporary pain relief, but will not treat the root cause of your toothache. Apply the gel to the affected area with your finger or a cotton swab. Use medications with benzocaine sparingly, and never more often than directed on the packaging or by your dentist. Benzocaine can cause a condition called methemoglobinemia, which reduces the amount of oxygen in the blood and can cause serious harm. Signs of methemoglobinemia can include bluish lips, shortness of breath, fatigue, confusion, light-headedness, and rapid pulse. Seek medical attention immediately if such symptoms are observed. Try clove oil. Some dental professionals believe that the natural anesthetic eugenol present in oil of cloves can be effective at relieving discomfort associated with a toothache. Squeeze or drop a small amount of clove oil onto a cotton ball. Rub this on your tooth and the surrounding gums. This will provide only temporary pain relief at best. Apply a cold compress to your cheek. This can be especially helpful if you have a toothache associated with a cracked tooth. Wet a washcloth with ice cold water and press it to your cheek. Alternatively, you can use a gel ice pack. Wrap it in a cloth. Apply the compresses for 15 minutes at a time. Take care of teething children. Tooth pain in small children is most often caused by teething, the emergence of teeth that normally begins at four to seven months of age. It is not uncommon for teething to be accompanied by fever, rash, diarrhea, and fussiness. If symptoms are consistent, recurrent, or severe, contact the child's physician. Soreness due to teething can often be alleviated by gently rubbing the gums with a clean finger, the back of a chilled spoon, or a moist gauze pad. Chilled teething rings or pacifiers may also be helpful. Do not use oral antiseptic gels containing benzocaine in children under two without the the consent of the child's physician. Methemoglobinemia, a shortage of oxygen in the blood that can be caused by benzocaine, can be fatal to small children. Know when to call a dentist. While tooth pain can often be at least temporarily alleviated at home, permanently fixing a sore tooth frequently requires the intervention of a dentist. Call a dentist if any of the following are true: your symptoms have lasted for two days; you have tooth pain accompanied by fever; you have signs of infection (swelling, redness, odor or discharge from the site); or you have trouble breathing or swallowing. If any of these symptoms are severe, even if they have lasted for less than two days, seek medical help immediately. If your tooth hurts when you're chewing, you might have a crack on your tooth. If it's above your gum, it can be treated with a root canal. If it's below the gum, your tooth may need to be extracted. If you don't have a regular dentist, call one in your area. If you have a toothache, you should be able to be seen within a couple of days. Do not delay if you may have an abscess. An abscess is an infection that has spread from a crack in the tooth into the pulp inside. From there, it can spread into the jaw and elsewhere, with possibly serious medical complications. In addition to pain, swelling, fever, redness in the gums, and a foul taste in the mouth can be signs of an abscess. Call a dentist if any of these symptoms accompany your sore tooth. Seek medical attention immediately if you also experience any of the following symptoms: high fever, chills, vomiting, or dizziness. These can be signs of a severe dental abscess. In addition, seek immediate medical treatment if you experience an inability to open your mouth (if you can't fit one finger into it), difficulty swallowing, shortness of breath, or gasping for air when you lay flat. These symptoms indicate that you might have a significant infection compromising your airway. Go to your appointment and follow the dentist’s advice. Be ready to tell the dentist when your pain started, where the pain is most severe, and if you have any other symptoms. In addition to a visual inspection, the dentist may take x-rays, which can spot an abscess. Take any and all medication prescribed by the dentist, according to his/her instructions. If you have an abscess, your dentist will probably prescribe an antibiotic to treat the infection before the tooth can be fixed. Your dentist may also give you a prescription for a painkiller such as prescription strength acetaminophen, ibuprofen, or even hydrocodone. Return to the dentist for follow-up treatment as needed. In the case of an abscess, the dentist will likely perform a root canal and crown. A root canal involves the removal of the infected pulp and the re-closure of the area in order to save the tooth. Root canals can be pricey, depending upon whether you have dental insurance, but they are not usually as painful as is often portrayed on television comedies, for instance. Root canals can often take one to three office visits to complete. You will likely be fitted with a temporary crown after your root canal and need to return to the dentist for a permanent cap. Your dentist might also give you the option of extraction, which is significantly less expensive. Brush your teeth regularly. Keeping your teeth clean is the easiest way to reduce your chances of having tooth pain. If it's already too late for that, you also don't want to worsen a cavity or abscess by allowing plaque and tartar to build up on your sore tooth. You should brush your teeth at least twice a day — once in the morning and again before bed. Many dentists recommend using a soft bristled electric toothbrush to brush your teeth, but any standard toothbrush is preferable to none at all. To brush your teeth effectively, put a pea sized amount of toothpaste on your toothbrush. If you have a toothache, you can try using a toothpaste for sensitive teeth. Position your brush at a 45 degree angle towards your gums and teeth. Use small side to side strokes and brush the front, back, sides and tops of each tooth. Make sure you hit all areas of your mouth as well, including your gums and tongue. Floss your teeth regularly. It is nearly impossible to keep the tight spaces between teeth clean otherwise. Also, an existing toothache can be caused or aggravated by food and other debris getting stuck between your teeth. You should floss at least once a day — the time of day does not matter, nor does your choice to floss before or after brushing. Using a piece of string floss or a floss pick, slide the floss through the space between each tooth. Slide the floss down to the base of each tooth, getting under the gum line. Then slide the floss back and forth to loosen and remove food and debris. Do this for all of your teeth. If you dislodge a piece of debris and your toothache suddenly subsides, that may have been the cause of your pain. Rinse your mouth out. Both commercial mouthwashes and home-made rinses can help keep teeth clean. A salt water rinse can help temporarily reduce mouth bacteria, including those that can be associated with abscesses. Mix one-half teaspoon of table salt to one cup of lukewarm water, swish around the mouth, and spit out. Repeat several times per day as desired. Salt water rinses are commonly prescribed starting 24 hours after dental surgery. In the mouthwash section of the drugstore, you'll find both cosmetic and therapeutic mouthwashes. The former merely mask bad breath, while the latter (which are generally preferable) also treat problems like tartar and plaque buildup. Read the package labels for more information on each type/brand, and follow the instructions for use. Get regular dental check-ups. If you visit your dentist for regular cleanings, you may avoid ever having to visit him/her with emergency tooth pain. Two cleanings per year is a common recommendation, and is often the frequency covered by dental insurance. Some people may need more frequent cleanings, however. Even if going to the dentist twice per year is a minor annoyance, it is far preferable to having major dental procedures done because of abscesses, for instance. Protect your teeth. Even the cleanest of teeth will become painful if cracked, chipped, broken, or otherwise traumatized, so protection of the mouth and teeth is essential. Always wear an approved protective mouthguard when playing sports or engaging in other activities where injuries to the mouth or teeth are not uncommon. Take special care — or avoid entirely — chewing on ice, popcorn kernels, hard candy, and other similar foods that can crack or chip teeth. Never use your teeth to cut, tear, or separate anything that doesn't belong in your mouth. Use scissors.

Determine the cause if you can. Remove debris if that is the cause. Eat sensibly to prevent more pain. Take an over-the-counter pain reliever. Try (with caution) an oral anesthetic gel containing benzocaine. Try clove oil. Apply a cold compress to your cheek. Take care of teething children. Know when to call a dentist. Do not delay if you may have an abscess. Go to your appointment and follow the dentist’s advice. Return to the dentist for follow-up treatment as needed. Brush your teeth regularly. Floss your teeth regularly. Rinse your mouth out. Get regular dental check-ups. Protect your teeth.

https://www.wikihow.com/Obtain-Money-from-Your-Parents

How to Obtain Money from Your Parents

If you need to ask your parents for money, make sure to prepare ahead of time with an exact amount and reason for why you need it, because this will show your parents that you are responsible. When you approach your parents, be honest with how much you need, but leave in a little buffer room for unpredicted expenses, which will show them your budgeting skills. For example, look up the price of a movie ticket but tell them you need a couple of extra dollars to give your friend gas money. While your parents probably won't mind giving you a few bucks, be prepared to negotiate if they don't want to give you everything you're asking for. If they give you an absolute “no,” then be polite and bring it up again later, but with an offer to do a chore or favor.

Decide whether you should only approach one parent. Your goal shouldn't be to pit one parent against the other. However, asking for a little cash doesn't need to turn into a major financial transaction. If you need eight bucks for a movie ticket, try asking one of your parents. If you need more like 50, it may need to involve both of them. Small amounts of money may not be much of a debate. For larger sums of money, they will appreciate that you approached both of them, and take the allowance seriously. You may have one parent who is more sympathetic to childhood or teenage hobbies. If you are only asking one, make it that one. Prepare to explain yourself. Your chosen parent will want to know why you want money. Your answer will be crucial in determining whether you get it. It will probably not be successful for you to lie about the reason, so be honest. There is nothing wrong with wanting a few bucks to get milkshakes with your friends or go to the movies. A parent is more likely to give you money to fund an activity they support (something school-related, an educational trip, a reputable event, etc.). After all, this is the same rationale nonprofits use asking for charitable donations. Asking for money to buy an item might be easier to explain. For example, if you just made the school soccer team, needing a ball to practice at home is pretty self-explanatory. If you're asking for something just for fun: Don't: say "It's not fair" or "I need it." Do: say "I know it's not something I need, but I'm willing to earn it." Have reasons to back up your initial request. The ideal scenario would be that once you tell your parent what you want money for, s/he would give it to you without further questions. However, this won't always be the case. Tell them why the event is important to you, and why it isn't just a regular Saturday afternoon, for example. Come up with two or three supporting reasons why the money is important. For example, if you need money to go to a movie, you might have a few reasons ready, like, “Nicole wants to see a movie for her birthday, and I promised her I would come to this birthday since I missed the last one" or “We've been fighting a little bit lately and I really want to make it up to her by going to the movies with her on her birthday.” Have an exact amount in mind. This is where you get to show off your early budgeting skills, which they should respect. Tell them exactly how much it will cost, and leave buffer room for unpredictable expenses. Be honest about adding that amount in, and they should be impressed with your ability to create a budget. For example, look up the exact price of a movie ticket. Add the two bucks you always give your friend for gas money. Finally, say you want an extra three bucks for a soda or snack, though you don't know for sure if you will need it. If it is a more substantial cost, for a road trip or dinner out with a date, come up with as precise a number as you can. Your parents don't want you not to have fun, they just need to know you have a mature understanding of budgeting. Be prepared to negotiate. Your parents may not be excited about throwing you the entire cost of your dinner date, but they still want to help. Don't be intimidated by negotiation. If you're honest about your needs and are willing to concede, negotiation can easily help you get more than nothing. If your parents give you an "absolute no": Don't: keep negotiating. Do: leave politely and wait for a chance to bring it up again by offering a new favor. Offer something in exchange. Be willing to offer to do something you know your parents want. For example, they may want you to do the lawn more often, so offer something chore-related. This part of the conversation will likely become controlled by your parents. If they ask you to study more and pull up your grades this month in exchange, agree to it. Following through with your promise will make them much more likely to barter with you like this in the future! Be polite. Nothing says “I don't take money seriously” more than rolling your eyes when they seem skeptical. Convey to them you value their parental guidance and concern by asking nicely and saying thank you. Making this an exchange between two mature parties will do wonders for your relationship with your parents. Consider whom you will ask. By this point in your life, you probably have an idea of which parent is more likely to give you a few bucks. On the other hand, if you need a substantial amount of money, approach both of them together. Let them talk it over before you even make your case. You also might ask both parents together if they tend to be more indulgent as a couple than as individuals. Don't: mention this to your friends, especially if they know your parents. Do: talk to your siblings if your parents end up giving you money. If you keep it secret and they find out, it could cause resentment. Prepare to talk about your budget and spending. As much as you might like to think that your budget is no longer your parents' business, asking them for money makes it their business. They probably won't expect you to present them with a printed out spreadsheet of your projected and actual monthly expenses. However, giving them a rough estimate will go a long way in demonstrating that you have a mature relationship with money. Allowing your parents to see a basic breakdown of where your money goes may help them feel more confident in giving you money (as long as your expenditures aren't frivolous in their eyes). Include a list of activities you participate in to earn money, whether it be a job, a freelance writing gig, classes to further your education, etc. Your parents will want to see that you're making an effort, not just "mooching." Don't: lecture your parents about how to budget their money. Do: make sure they can afford what you're asking for without affecting their safety net. Demonstrate your interest in school or work. Show them how you are doing well in school. To make it even more enticing, show them how you even plan to improve. This makes your financial situation seem like a temporary problem, not permanent. It also makes you seem grateful for the support they have already shown you in your academic or early work career. Ask for a loan. Your parents may not deem it necessary for you to pay them back. They may instead see this as an investment on their part. However, telling them you are prepared to work hard to pay them back will further demonstrate your financial maturity. On the other hand, actually agreeing to pay them back for money will teach you valuable lessons in money management. You and your parents can negotiate the repayment plan as necessary: they may want the money sooner; they may want to charge interest, etc. Be willing to work with them to set up a repayment plan you're all comfortable with.

Decide whether you should only approach one parent. Prepare to explain yourself. Have reasons to back up your initial request. Have an exact amount in mind. Be prepared to negotiate. Offer something in exchange. Be polite. Consider whom you will ask. Prepare to talk about your budget and spending. Demonstrate your interest in school or work. Ask for a loan.

https://www.wikihow.com/Stay-Awake-While-Studying

How to Stay Awake While Studying

To stay awake while studying, chew some gum since it will increase blood flow to your brain and give you a boost of energy. If you're snacking while studying, eat high-protein foods that provide lasting energy like trail mix, beef jerky, or string cheese rather than sugary foods that will make you crash. Since staying hydrated can help you fight off tiredness, drink at least 8 ounces of water every 1 to 2 hours. Exercise is another great way to get reenergized, so take a break and go for a short walk to wake up your muscles and get your blood flowing. If possible, walk outside since fresh air is a great energy booster. When choosing where to study, pick somewhere with lots of lighting so you don't get drowsy working in a dim room.

Chew mint gum to wake up your brain. Pop a piece of gum in your mouth while you study to increase blood flow to your brain and increase arousal. Pick a mint flavor, like spearmint, peppermint, or wintermint for an extra invigorating bite. Keep a pack of gum in your backpack or pencil case so you always have it with you when you're studying. Eat foods that are high in protein for longer-lasting energy. Snack on foods that are primarily composed of protein, like nuts, meat, or cheese, which fuel your body longer because they aren't as easily digested as carbs. For example, choose trail mix, beef jerky, or string cheese to eat while you work. Avoid sugary foods or drinks, like cookies or soda, along with carb-heavy foods, like potato chips. These might give you a quick boost, but you'll crash later on. Try to eat every 2 to 3 hours, even if it's just something small, to avoid low blood sugar, which makes you feel sleepy. You can also use healthy snacks as motivation for studying. For example, you can reward yourself with a snack after staying awake and studying for 30 minutes. Drink at least 8 oz (.25 L) of water every 1 to 2 hours to fight fatigue. Stay hydrated to avoid feeling drowsy or sluggish. Drink a full glass of water at least every 2 hours, which will help the blood flow in your brain and make you feel more alert. Keep a reusable water bottle with you that you can refill as you study. Avoid alcohol, particularly on days when you're studying or the day before. Drinking alcohol regularly can negatively affect your brain function along with dehydrating you. Consume a single caffeinated drink if you want an instant boost. Drink a mug of coffee to wake yourself up quickly, as caffeine prevents the cells that make you feel tired from reaching your brain. Have the equivalent of 200 mg of caffeine, which is 12 oz (.35 L) of coffee or 24 oz (.7 L) of tea, for example, over the course of 24 hours. Be aware that coffee and other caffeinated drinks can actually be dehydrating, so you should drink water with them, too. Avoid drinking coffee or consuming anything with caffeine, like chocolate, soda, or tea, within 6 hours of when you plan to go to bed or you may have trouble falling asleep. Don't consume more than 200 mg of caffeine in a day. Too much caffeine can be very dangerous for your heart and can also worsen existing conditions, like anxiety or depression. Avoid energy drinks and pills that contain caffeine and/or chemicals. While quick fixes are tempting, stay away from drinks, pills, or shots that promise instant energy or that are loaded with chemicals and too much caffeine. Be aware that they can have dangerous side effects, like increased anxiety or even heart problems. If you want to use energy drinks or products, talk to your doctor first. It can be very risky if you have certain health conditions, like high blood pressure or a weak heart. Study in 25-minute intervals if you like having scheduled breaks. Try what's known as the Pomodoro technique to keep yourself on track with your studying. Set a timer to work without any distractions for 25 minutes, then take a 5-minute break. Repeat those intervals for however long you'd like to study. Use your 5-minute breaks to relax and recharge your brain. Do something unrelated to what you're studying, like stretching out your body or watching a funny YouTube video. Take a longer 30-minute break after you complete 4 intervals. Take a 10 to 20 minute nap if you’re really tired. Lay down on the couch or get into bed if you're at home for a quick power nap. If you're at the library or in a classroom, rest your head on the desk in a comfortable position to doze. Set your alarm for no more than 20 minutes later so you wake up feeling refreshed instead of drowsy. If possible, choose a spot that's quiet and dark to take your nap, which will help you get better quality sleep. Make sure you're getting at least 7 to 9 hours of sleep each night, too. Naps are a good boost but they aren't a substitute for uninterrupted sleep. Exercise for 15 to 20 minutes on a break to get your blood flowing. Go for a short walk or jog, do some bodyweight exercises, or take a quick yoga class, for example. Move your body to wake up all of your muscles and release proteins in your brain that improve your memory. If you can, do your exercise outside for even more benefits. Fresh air is an instant energy boost. Switch the topic you're studying after each break to stay focused. Instead of doing a marathon study session of 1 topic, break your study time up and change the topic after each break so you don't burn out on 1 subject. For example, study calculus for the first hour, then switch to physics. If you're only studying for 1 class, like English, change the specific material you're reviewing if possible. For instance, start with Shakespeare, then move to Chaucer. Listen to upbeat music to distract your brain from feeling fatigued. Turn on the radio or play music from your phone or computer while you study to keep you alert. Choose songs that are fast-paced or lively, like pop or dance music, rather than slow, sad songs, which will bring down your mood and energy. If you're in a public place, use headphones to listen to the music of your choice. Look for upbeat playlists online or on a music app. You can also find premade playlists with music specifically for studying. Turn on bright lights if you’re studying late at night. Rather than reading by a dim lamp or in a dark room, brighten up your study area to trick your brain into thinking it's still daytime and making it feel more energized. Turn on as many lights as possible in the room, including overhead lights and lamps. If your space doesn't have much lighting, relocate to a brighter area, if possible. Turn up the brightness on your computer or tablet if you're using one. This also prevents you from having to strain your eyes to see, which can make you feel more tired. Eliminate all outside distractions if you have trouble concentrating. Figure out what's preventing you from being able to focus, whether it's the Instagram alerts on your phone or the people talking at the table next to you. Then, eliminate those things so your brain isn't distracted from studying. For instance, put your phone on silent or move to a quieter area. You can also turn your phone off, leave it in a different room, or put it on Do Not Disturb mode so you don't receive any texts or notifications. Change your study spot every day to boost your memory. Rather than always studying in the same place, switch it up every time to improve your concentration and help your brain remember information better. For instance, one day, study at a coffee shop, then the next day, study at home in the kitchen. Choose locations that fit your studying style and personality. For example, if you study best in silence, pick a library or quiet room, whereas is you prefer background noise, opt for a cafe or common area. Organize a study group if you get tired of working alone. Because studying can be boring and monotonous, get some friends or classmates together to study as a group. Work on practice problems out loud, discuss different topics or quiz each other to make studying more lively and engaging. Keep your study group to 4 to 6 people. Too many people can become distracting or difficult to manage. Stay on task by setting group goals for each study session, like finishing 2 chapters of a textbook or covering 1 topic. Otherwise, it may be tempting to just waste time talking or goofing off.

Chew mint gum to wake up your brain. Eat foods that are high in protein for longer-lasting energy. Drink at least 8 oz (.25 L) of water every 1 to 2 hours to fight fatigue. Consume a single caffeinated drink if you want an instant boost. Avoid energy drinks and pills that contain caffeine and/or chemicals. Study in 25-minute intervals if you like having scheduled breaks. Take a 10 to 20 minute nap if you’re really tired. Exercise for 15 to 20 minutes on a break to get your blood flowing. Switch the topic you're studying after each break to stay focused. Listen to upbeat music to distract your brain from feeling fatigued. Turn on bright lights if you’re studying late at night. Eliminate all outside distractions if you have trouble concentrating. Change your study spot every day to boost your memory. Organize a study group if you get tired of working alone.

https://www.wikihow.com/Play-Flag-Football

How to Play Flag Football

If you and your friends want to play flag football, divide all of the players into 2 teams, with each team being assigned a certain color. Give each player 3 flags in their team color to wear on a flag belt or tucked into their waistband. The rules of flag football are similar to regular football, with each team getting 4 tries to either move the ball forward 10 yards or to score. However, instead of tackling your opponents when they have the ball, snatch one of the flags from their belt and hold it up in the air to indicate a tackle.

Suit up. Wear form-fitting athletic gear, such as t-shirts, shorts, sweatshirts, and sweatpants. Avoid baggy clothing, as well as anything with pockets or belt-loops, to reduce the chances of an opponent grabbing your clothes by mistake when they attempt to snatch your flag. Also avoid wearing clothes that are the same color as the flags that you will wear. Tuck your shirt into your waistband to keep the flags accessible. Although there is no tackling in flag football, safety gear such as mouthguards and safety straps for glasses are still recommended. Some leagues may require you to wear flat-soled or molded cleat shoes (meaning the cleats are actually part of the sole). Shoes with spikes or cleats that can be removed may be forbidden. Helmets and padding are not required. In fact, they are usually forbidden in official games. Gather your gear. Bring at least one American football to play with. Distribute flag belts to each player for them to wear around their waist. Also hand out three flags per player to attach to their belt. Make sure the flags for each team are one uniform color. If you don't have belts, tuck the flags under your waistband. Tuck them far enough to keep them in place when you run, but not so far in that your opponents can't reach them or pull them free. Fixing your flags so that they are harder to remove can result in ten-yard penalties if you're caught, meaning that your team will lose ten yards at the start of your next down. Choose a playing field. Find an open space with level ground. For a full-sized field, look for a space that measures 53.33 yards wide (48.76 meters) and 120 yards (109.7 meters). However, for younger players (or if wide open spaces are hard to come by in your area), feel free to choose a field that is half or even a third of that size. The game should be played on level ground so no one team has an unfair advantage. Players who need to climb uphill to reach their end zone will face more challenges than opponents running downhill. If you are able to play on an actual football field where the yards and end zones are already marked, great! If not, use cones or flags to mark your end zones. Trace your goal lines and sidelines with spray paint if possible so they are easier to spot. End zones should be the last ten yards (9.1 meters) at either end of the playing field. This usually holds true even when playing on a smaller field. Recommended measurements for smaller fields include: 60 yards long by 20 yards wide (54.9 by 18.3 meters); 70 yards long by 25 yards wide (64 by 22.9 meters); 80 yards long by 30 yards wide (73.1 by 27. 4 meters). Gather players. Determine how many each team will have. To play with full teams, find nine people for each one. If that isn't possible, aim for at least five players to a team. Teams should always have an equal number of players to avoid unfair advantages. Appoint a captain for each team. Choose a player to represent the team as a whole. Although the quarterback often doubles as a captain, base your decision on their maturity, communication skills, and leadership. The captain will be responsible for: The team's conduct as a whole. Disputing calls on the team's behalf. Calling time-outs. Participating in the coin toss. Decide how long the game will last. For a full-length game, plan for an hour of total playing time. Divide the game into four quarters, with 15 minutes to each quarter. For a quicker match, feel free to shorten the overall time. Simply divide that time into four equal quarters. Or, for a very short game, simply have two short halves of ten minutes each. Also, decide how long of a break you will have between each quarter and half. The break between the second and third quarter (halftime) is typically the longest. The other two breaks are of equal length. Break times vary from league to league in football. Halftime can be anywhere from five to twelve minutes. Breaks between quarters are usually one or two minutes. Flip a coin. Have the captain from each team meet with the referee and choose which side they will be: heads or tails. Then have the referee flip a coin. Allow the winner to choose which end zone they would like to protect in the first half or which team will start the game with possession of the ball. In the second half, have each team switch sides and protect the other end zone. This way, no one team will benefit from unfair advantages, such as a steady wind blowing from one end of the field to the other for the whole game. Alternately, at the beginning of the third quarter you could also allow the loser of the coin toss a chance to choose which end zone they would like to protect in the second half. If you have no strong kickers, you can also the kickoff and start instead by granting the winner first down, starting from their five-yard line. Start with a kick off. Direct each team toward the end zones determined by the coin toss. The team kicking off should place the ball at their 20 yard line. Either set it directly on the ground or on a kicking tee, or have a player hold it in place for the kicker. Once the referee blows the whistle to start the game, kick the ball toward the other team. Whoever catches the ball on the other team may: Run the ball toward the opposite zone. Execute a forward pass to another teammate. Start with a snap instead. If you have no strong kickers, forget the kick-off. Simply start the game at the 5 yard line of whichever team possesses the ball according to the coin toss. Line at least four players along the line of scrimmage, with the “center” (the player snapping the ball to the quarterback) in the center of the field. Place the quarterback behind the center. At the whistle, proceed to play as you would after your first down. A snap is the backward pass from center to quarterback. It must be passed from between the center's legs. 'A down is the interval of time when the ball is in play, starting from the center “snapping” the ball and ending with a touchdown or the ball going “dead” (meaning when an offensive player's flag is removed by a defender or they go out of bounds). A player is also declared “down” when the ball is declared "dead." The lines of scrimmage are two parallel lines extending from sideline to sideline, with each line crossing one end of the football, which in this case is placed on the 5 yard line with either end pointing toward an end zone. The neutral zone is the area between each line of scrimmage at the start of each down. Neither team may cross into the neutral zone until the ball is “snapped.” Cover the most ground possible. Whether you receive a kick-off or start with a snap, always aim to carry the ball as far as you can toward the opposite end zone. If you catch a kick-off, pass the ball to a teammate if they have a better chance of gaining more ground. Advance the ball as far as possible until you either reach the end zone and score a touchdown or are declared “down” enroute. When catching a kick-off, your entire body must be within bounds for the catch to count. The only exception is if you have to leap into the air to catch the ball, in which case one foot still must land within bounds. This rule is not universal, though, so have all sides agree to it before the start of the game if you wish to adopt it. If you are unable to make it all the way to the end zone, you are “down” as soon as your opponents snatch one of your flags or force you out of bounds. Although tackling is not permitted, you are still considered “down” if any part of your body other than your hands or feet comes into contact with the ground. Get ready to play your first down. Place the ball in the center of the field at the exact yard where it went “dead” (that is, the yard line where you were declared “down”). Assemble your team along your line of scrimmage. Position four players at the line of scrimmage itself, with the quarterback positioned behind whoever is playing center and snapping the ball to them. To be considered “at” the line of scrimmage, at least one part of your body (foot, upper torso, head, etc.) has to be within a yard of it. Replace the flag that was snatched before you get into position. Starting a down with one less flag for your opponents to try for will automatically result in you being declared “down” again. Snap the ball. Have the center pass the ball to the quarterback from between their legs in one fast, fluid motion. Until they do, the center must not shift their feet or raise their hands once they are in position. Be aware that any false start on the center's part will result in a five-yard penalty, meaning that you will have to retreat five yards. No one is allowed to cross into the neutral zone until the ball has been snapped. Doing so will also result in a five-yard penalty. Some rules dictate that all players must refrain from moving at all until the ball is snapped. Other rules allow players to move parallel to the line of scrimmage or farther back from it. Pass or run the ball. Once the ball has been snapped, have the quarterback pass the ball to another player as they advance toward the end zone. Alternately, they can hand the ball off to another player behind the line of scrimmage, or they can run the ball themselves toward the end zone if no one is open. Be aware, however, that they are no longer allowed to pass the ball once they cross the line of scrimmage. Only one forward pass is permitted during one down. A successful handoff to another player behind the line of scrimmage does not count as a forward pass, meaning this second player can then make a forward pass as long as they don't cross the line of scrimmage. You may make as many backward passes as necessary. Play four downs. Aim to gain at least ten yards in that time. Once you do, consider your next down your “first,” with four more chances to gain another ten yards. Keep advancing toward the opposite end zone in this manner. If you do not gain ten yards in four downs, surrender possession of the ball to your opponents, who may now start their own offensive run from your last line of scrimmage. Once the line of scrimmage is within five yards of the end zone, you can only score by throwing a successful pass into the end zone, not by running the ball across the goal line. Cover each opponent. When the other team assembles along the line of scrimmage to snap the ball, place your own players so that each of the other team's receivers will be covered once the ball is snapped. Place them as you see fit, since the defensive team is not obligated to place any players directly on the line of scrimmage. However, be sure to follow these rules: Do not place a player directly across from your opponent's center at the line of scrimmage. Wait until the ball is snapped before crossing the neutral zone. Intercept passes and collect fumbles. Turn your defense into an offense at any given opportunity. If possible, try to catch any passes thrown by your opponents and make a run for your end zone. If your opponents drop the ball without going “down,” try to recover it to claim possession for your team. If you and your opponent catch the ball at the exact same time, the ball is still theirs. Do not physically interfere with an offensive player to prevent them from catching a ball. This will result in a ten-yard penalty. Snatch their flags. Instead of tackling your opponents, rip one of their flags from their belt or waistband once they catch the ball. If one or more of their flags have come off accidentally, use your hand to touch them anywhere between their shoulders and their knees.. If your opponent has all of his flags, refrain from touching their body at all. Doing so will automatically grant them an extra ten yards as a penalty against you. As soon as you have hold of their flag, raise it in the air so others see that you have it. Refrain from rough play. Remember that flag football is a much gentler variation on traditional football. Expect roughhousing to be penalized. Avoid physical contact with your opponents, except for their flags. Refrain from: Physically forcing your opponent out of bounds. Tackling them or trying to injure them with your arms or legs.

Suit up. Gather your gear. Choose a playing field. Gather players. Appoint a captain for each team. Decide how long the game will last. Flip a coin. Start with a kick off. Start with a snap instead. Cover the most ground possible. Get ready to play your first down. Snap the ball. Pass or run the ball. Play four downs. Cover each opponent. Intercept passes and collect fumbles. Snatch their flags. Refrain from rough play.

https://www.wikihow.com/Identify-a-Black-and-Tan-Coonhound

How to Identify a Black and Tan Coonhound

To properly identify a black and tan coonhound, look for a black coat with tan accents on the dog's face, neck, legs, and chest, and the distinctive tan spots above their eye called “pumpkin seeds.” Expect a tall, long-boned body and long, floppy ears that hang down to the jaw. Check for the elongated head shape and droopy jowls that facilitate the coonhound's excellent sense of smell. If the dog is a true coonhound, it will be constantly sniffing its surroundings and will have a loud, deep-toned bark.

Look for the distinctive black and tan coloring. As its name might imply, the black and tan coonhound's coat is a dark black with tan accents that can be found on its face, neck, legs, and chest. Most black and tan coonhounds have distinctive tan spots above their eyes called “pumpkin seeds.” A black and tan coonhound's coat will be short and dense. Expect a large, tall body. A black and tan coonhound is a larger-sized dog. The dog has a long-boned body that resembles that of the bloodhound but is slightly more compact. Male coonhounds measure 25 to 27 inches (64 to 69 cm) at the shoulder, while females measure 23 to 25 inches (58 to 64 cm) at the shoulder. Males and females weigh between 55 and 75 pounds (25 to 34 kg). Look for long, floppy ears. Like other members of the hound family, the black and tan coonhound has distinctively long ears. These floppy ears hang down below the dog's jaw and flap as the animal runs. The ears are black, like much of its body, and improve the dog's sense of smell by wafting the scent towards its nose. Check for jowls and a long muzzle. The black and tan coonhound has a long oval-shaped head. The elongated shape is due to its long muzzle and powerful nose. In addition, the black and tan coonhound has droopy jowls that hang down off its muzzle. All of these features facilitate the coonhound's renowned sense of smell. Watch the dog’s tail. A black and tan coonhound will have a fairly long, thin tail that tapers at the end. When the dog is in action (such as following a scent), it's tail will perk up and bend at a slight right angle. Listen for a loud bark. Black and tan coonhounds have an extremely loud and distinctive bark that can be heard for miles. The notable “arf arf” of the black and tan coonhound resembles the sound that a seal makes but in a much deeper tone. The dog often lets out this noisy bark when they are excited by a new scent or are playing. Look for constant sniffing. Like other members of the hound family, the black and tan coonhound loves to sniff. When on a walk, the dog will constantly sniff its surroundings and, when it encounters a new human, will give them a thorough smelling. Because its urge to sniff is so strong that it can wander off, the black and tan coonhound needs a leash when walked and a securely fenced backyard. Notice if the dog is stubborn. Black and tan coonhounds can be difficult dogs to train. They are easily distracted and can be rambunctious. However, if trained properly, they can be very useful hunting dogs. Chat with the owner. Talk to the owner and ask them if they know their dog's heritage. Be sure to approach with a smile on your face and use a friendly tone. They will likely know, or at least, have an idea of their dog's breed. You might say something like “Hello, that is a really nice looking dog. What breed is it?” or “Hi, what a beautiful dog. Is that a black and tan coonhound?” Talk to a veterinarian. If you adopt or purchase a dog and are unsure of its breed, a veterinarian should be able to tell you. They will examine the dog's physical characteristics and let you know whether your dog is a black and tan coonhound. If your dog is not a purebred, they may be able to tell you what breeds make up your dog's heritage. Visit a breeder. If you purchase a dog from a breeder, be sure to inquire about the parentage of your dog. Ask to see the paperwork to show that the American Kennel Club recognizes both parents as black and tan coonhounds. In addition, a breeder may be able to help you identify the heritage of your dog, even if you did not purchase it from them. Check the dog’s breed using an app. If you have a photo of the dog, you can scan it in an app on your smartphone to determine its heritage. Applications, like Microsoft's Fetch!, will tell you what breeds your dog resembles. Although it is not the most accurate means of identifying whether your dog is a black and tan coonhound, it might help you get a better understanding of its heritage. Test the dog’s DNA. For a more accurate detailing of your dog's background, you might want to purchase a commercial DNA testing kit. A kit can be ordered online and used in the comfort of your home. Simply swab the inside of your dog's mouth and mail the sample back to the company for testing. Once the testing is complete, you will get a set of results that tell you whether your dog is a black and tan coonhound. Some kits use a blood sample instead of a cheek swab, which will need to be collected by your veterinarian. While less convenient than swab tests, blood tests decrease the chance of a contaminated sample.

Look for the distinctive black and tan coloring. Expect a large, tall body. Look for long, floppy ears. Check for jowls and a long muzzle. Watch the dog’s tail. Listen for a loud bark. Look for constant sniffing. Notice if the dog is stubborn. Chat with the owner. Talk to a veterinarian. Visit a breeder. Check the dog’s breed using an app. Test the dog’s DNA.

https://www.wikihow.com/Catch-a-Blue-Tailed-Skink

How to Catch a Blue Tailed Skink

If you want to catch a blue-tailed skink with your hands, put on a pair of thick work gloves to protect yourself from being bitten. Set a lamp or a flashlight near the area where you think the skink is located, and drop a few crickets or mealworms under the light. When the skink approaches the bait, move forward slowly, without making any loud sounds or abrupt movements. Once you're close enough, quickly grab the skink's body, but don't squeeze too hard, or you could injure the lizard. Avoid grabbing the skink by its tail, as it could fall off.

Use your hands if you need to catch the lizard immediately but don’t have a net or trap. Catching a blue tailed skink with your hands is very difficult, as skinks are quite fast and quickly shed their tails. If you have no other options or like a challenge, then you can try to catch one this way. If you have trouble luring the skink out of its hiding place, then it will be difficult to use your hands. Try using a trap instead. Prepare a temporary home to put the skink in after you catch it. Any unscented, sturdy container will be fine for a temporary home, but make sure the walls are at least 6 inches (15 cm) high. You can add local leaves and grasses, along with food and water, to make the skink more comfortable before you let it go. Blue-tailed skinks will eat spiders and other insects, but the easiest food to acquire are crickets. If you can, choose a container with a lid so the skink can't run out before you release it. Poke holes into the side with a pair of scissors so it can breathe easily. Put on gloves to avoid germs and protect yourself from bites. If you can, slide on thick work gloves before going to catch the skink with your hands. Lizards can carry infectious diseases, including salmonella and botulism. Although the risk of you getting a disease from brief contact with a skink is low, it's best to play it safe by putting on gloves before you handle it. Skinks can also bite. Their bites aren't poisonous or very painful, but it's still best to protect your hands if you can. Lure the skink out of its hiding place with bait and light. Blue-tailed skinks, like most lizards, are attracted to light. Set up a light, such as a lamp or a flashlight, and some bait (either crickets or mealworms) near the area where you think the skink is located to help lure it out. If you use bait but don't want to touch it or place it on your floor, put it in a small container, such as a small plastic bowl or lid. Remember that there's still a chance the bait might jump or crawl out, so keep a close eye on it. Shine the light at the spot where you want the lizard to go. Move slowly towards the skink. You do not want to scare it too early, so get yourself close to it slowly and without abrupt movements. You should come towards it from behind (or above, if possible) so that it is less likely to see you. Grab the skink’s body quickly to catch it. Use your hand to quickly capture the lizard from above or behind. Make sure you try to catch it on its body, rather than its tail. Skinks can detach their tails when threatened and escape if you grab them there. Be careful not to squeeze too hard, or else you could injure the skink. Keep your fingers away from the skink's mouth. Although skinks are not poisonous, it can still hurt when they bite! Place the skink in its temporary home, then release it. Carefully lower the skink into its temporary home. Place a lid or a piece of cardboard tightly over the opening so the skink can't crawl out, then carry it outside. Release it on the ground in your yard or, if you want it further away, in a nearby park or wooded area. To avoid stressing or frightening the skink too much, try not to keep the skink in the temporary home for more than 12 hours or so. Use a net if you don’t want to use your hands and can’t use a trap. Using a net is a good option if you can't catch the skink in a trap—if it's outside or far from a wall, for example—but don't want to use your hands. You'll have more reach on the skink than you would with just your hands, and don't have to worry about it shedding its tail. This method is best if you can clearly see the skink or easily lure it out. If it won't emerge from its hiding place, try using a homemade trap instead. Prepare a temporary home to place the lizard in after you catch it. Clear out an unscented, sturdy container to store the lizard in until you release it. Make sure the walls are at least 6 inches (15 cm) high so the skink can't crawl out easily. You can place local leaves and grasses inside, along with food and water, to make the lizard less stressed. If you want to add food, use crickets, spiders, or other insects. If you can, choose a container with a lid so the skink can't run out before you release it. Poke holes into the side with a pair of scissors so it can breathe easily. Grab a butterfly net with a long handle and wide net. If you're catching the skink with a net, a butterfly net is the best choice. It has a wide net, which gives you a better chance of catching the skink, and a long handle to reach it from further away. You can use another kind of net as well, but make sure its holes are small enough that the skink won't be able to slip through. Skinks are small enough to fit in the palm of your hand and are quite thin, so the holes should be as small as possible. Lure the skink out with light and food. Like all lizards, skinks are attracted to light. Placing a lamp or a flashlight near its hiding spot might help to draw it out into the open so you can catch it. You can also try placing a small, shallow bowl of food nearby, such as crickets, spiders, or other insects. Remember that the bait might jump or crawl out of its container, so keep a close eye on it. Trap the skink by closing the net around it from behind. When you get the skink into the open, approach it slowly from behind. Bring the net down quickly to trap it underneath, making sure not to hit the skink with the sides of the net. Slide a piece of cardboard under the net and turn it over. Slowly move a piece of cardboard, or another kind of sturdy paper, under the net, lifting up the skink slightly as you do. Then, lift the net and cardboard and slowly turn the net over so that the skink falls to the bottom. Continue holding the cardboard over the top of the net so the skink can't jump or crawl out. Slide the skink into its temporary home, then release it outside. Remove the cardboard and turn the net over to allow the skink to fall or crawl into its temporary home. Then, carry the container outside to an area away from your house and set it down on its side to allow the skink to crawl out. To avoid stressing or frightening the skink too much, try not to keep the skink in the temporary home for more than 12 hours or so. Use a simple cardboard box trap to catch and transport the lizard in one container. If you don't want to catch the lizard by hand but don't have a net around either, using a cardboard box can be a great solution. It's humane and easy, and only requires you to set down a cardboard box and wait for the skink to crawl in, then release it outside. This works best if you already know where the skink is hiding, and especially if they're indoors or in a small corner where you can box them in. Herd the lizard towards a corner with a broom or stick. If the skink isn't already in a corner or against a wall, herd it in towards one. You can simply walk towards the lizard, or use a stick or a broom to encourage it to move. Avoid touching the skink with the stick or broom, as that might injure it. Place a cardboard box against the wall, facing the skink. Once you have the skink backed into a wall, set down your box so that the opening is facing the skink. If the skink is in a corner, place the box diagonally so it doesn't have room to escape around the sides. If it's not, try placing obstacles around the box, such as other boxes or high stacks of books or other objects, to block off its escape routes. You can make the box more attractive to the skink by placing some local grasses or leaves inside or even providing food like crickets, spiders, or other small insects. Use a shoebox or an old packaging box to catch the skink. Make sure it's big enough that the skink can fit inside, but not so big or damaged that it'll be able to crawl out through other openings. Avoid airtight boxes as well. Herd the skink towards the box with a broom or stick. Try to nudge the skink towards the box with a broom or a stick, again without touching it. You can also simply leave the box and obstacles where they are and wait for the skink to crawl in by itself. Check back in a few minutes to see if the skink has gone inside; if it hasn't, give it more time. Tip the box upright and cover it with a piece of cardboard. Once the skink is in the box, quickly tilt it upright and cover it with another piece of cardboard or stiff paper. Keep the cardboard or paper in place as you lift the box to make sure the skink doesn't get out. Take the box outside and release the skink. Let the skink go in your yard or if you don't want it getting into your house or garden again, in a nearby park or forested area. Simply set the box on the ground again and slowly tilt it to its side. Remove the cardboard on top and allow the lizard to crawl out! To avoid stressing or frightening the skink too much, try not to keep the skink in the temporary home for more than 12 hours or so.

Use your hands if you need to catch the lizard immediately but don’t have a net or trap. Prepare a temporary home to put the skink in after you catch it. Put on gloves to avoid germs and protect yourself from bites. Lure the skink out of its hiding place with bait and light. Move slowly towards the skink. Grab the skink’s body quickly to catch it. Place the skink in its temporary home, then release it. Use a net if you don’t want to use your hands and can’t use a trap. Prepare a temporary home to place the lizard in after you catch it. Grab a butterfly net with a long handle and wide net. Lure the skink out with light and food. Trap the skink by closing the net around it from behind. Slide a piece of cardboard under the net and turn it over. Slide the skink into its temporary home, then release it outside. Use a simple cardboard box trap to catch and transport the lizard in one container. Herd the lizard towards a corner with a broom or stick. Place a cardboard box against the wall, facing the skink. Herd the skink towards the box with a broom or stick. Tip the box upright and cover it with a piece of cardboard. Take the box outside and release the skink.

https://www.wikihow.com/Check-Cervical-Mucus

How to Check Cervical Mucus

If you want to check your cervical mucus, keep a record of where you are at in your cycle, since the mucus will look different depending on how close you are to ovulation. For example, about 5 days after your menstrual period, you may secrete cloudy, sticky mucus for 3 to 5 days. After these first few days, you will become your most fertile, and your cervical mucus may appear wet, slippery, and stretchy. To check your cervical secretions, use a toilet tissue to wipe before and after urination, and observe the results. Schedule an appointment with your doctor if you notice blood that doesn't correspond with your period, or if the mucus has an unusual color or odor.

Recognize the characteristics of cervical mucus. Before you can check your cervical mucus, learn about the characteristics of it throughout your cycle. This may help you more effectively track your menstrual cycle and ovulation. You will likely not notice any cervical secretions for three to four days following the end of your menstrual period. After these initial few days, you may secrete scanty, cloudy, and sticky cervical mucus for three to five days. Thereafter, your cervical mucus will increase and be wet, which corresponds to the time just before and during ovulation. The mucus may also feel thin, slippery and very stretchy. This is also the time you are most fertile. Once you ovulate, you may not have any noticeable cervical secretions for up to two weeks before your next period. You may also experience some thicker but sparse secretions. It's important to recognize that the specific length of each of these phases can vary by woman. Keeping a record of your cervical mucus can help you identify how long each phase is in your own cycle. It may be difficult to differentiate between normal cervical secretions and semen or sexual lubrication during your first cycle. You might want to consider avoiding sexual intercourse during this time to help you better identify your normal cervical mucus. Keep a record of your mucus characteristics. Write down the specific characteristics of your cervical mucus on a daily basis. This will help you identify the specific phases of your cycle and when you are most fertile or should avoid sex. You should begin to notice a pattern after the first few cycles. Begin tracking the characteristics of your cervical mucus on the day after your period stops. Check every day, at about the same time of day to help you see patterns of change over time. Make sure to record the color such as yellow, white, clear, or cloudy. Note the consistency: is it thick, sticky, or stretchy? Write down how the mucus feels to the touch. It may be dry, wet or slippery. You may also want to feel your vulva and note down any sensations of dryness, moistness, or wetness. Check your cervical secretions before and after urinating. The best way to check your cervical secretions is to wipe before and after urinating and then examine the mucus on a piece of toilet tissue. This can effectively help you to track your cervical mucus and your cycle. Use white toilet paper so that you can best identify the color of your cervical secretions. Wipe from front to back using toilet tissue both before and after you urinate. Make sure to write down what you see on the toilet paper in your record. Analyze the cervical secretions in your underwear. You can also check your cervical mucus by analyzing any secretions that appear in your underwear. This can help you further identify where you are at in your cycle and may also be useful if you can't find any mucus when wiping. Write down the characteristics of any mucus you find in your underwear. Examine your vulva and its sensations. Gently feeling your vulvar area with your fingers and note any sensations you feel such as dryness, wetness, or moistness. This can help identify changes in your cervical mucus or cycle. The vulva makes up the external genitals of women including the clitoris, labia, vaginal opening, and any surrounding skin or tissue. Don't feel uncomfortable or self-conscious touching your vulva. You're not doing anything wrong. Gently touch the various parts of your vulva to examine its texture. Make sure to feel inside of the labia as well. It's a good idea to feel your vulva regularly so that you know what is normal for you. Evaluate the record of your cervical mucus. After the first cycle or a couple of cycle, read through the record you've kept of your cervical mucus. This will help you begin to effectively evaluate your cycle and ovulation and may help prevent or promote pregnancy. Stay consistent and motivated. Learning this method can take time and interpreting your mucus can take a couple of cycles. Staying consistent and motivated in the examination of your cervical mucus can help you successfully use it to prevent or promote pregnancy. If you have any questions, you can ask your doctor. It may take a few cycles to begin recognizing patterns in your cervical secretions and menstrual cycle. Don't get discourage and stick with it. If you are unsure of your mucus and using this method as a form of birth control, you may want to use a backup method of birth control such as condoms. Understand factors that can change cervical mucus. Certain factors can change the character of your cervical mucus. Understanding what can alter your cervical mucus can help you more effectively identify secretions and changes in your cycle. Certain medications, feminine hygiene products such as tampons, having sex, or getting a pelvic exam with lubrication can change the appearance of your cervical mucus. If you notice a change in your mucus as a result of any of these factors, don't worry. Avoid douching because it can wash away cervical secretions, which can make it difficult to notice changes in your mucus. Consider basal body temperature monitoring. Measure your basal body temperature in conjunction with your cervical mucus tracking. This method, which involves taking your temperature every morning, can help provide additional insight into your fertility cycle. This method holds that your basal body temperature, or your body's temperature while resting, will increase slightly-- 0.5-1 degree Fahrenheit-- during ovulation. Plan or avoid sexual intercourse during fertile days. Depending on if you are using the cervical mucus method to prevent or promote pregnancy, plan on having sex or avoid intercourse during the times that you are most fertile. This may increase or decrease your chances of getting pregnant. Remember that you are most fertile on the days that your cervical mucus increases and is thin and slippery. Be aware that this method is neither a fail-safe method of birth control nor a guarantee that you'll get pregnant. If you are using cervical mucus as a form of birth control, you may want to use a backup method such as condoms when you are most fertile. See your doctor. If you have any questions about using the cervical mucus method or you notice changes in your mucus, see your doctor. This can help rule out serious conditions and may help you more effectively use this method. If you notice blood in your cervical secretions that do not correspond to your period, consult your doctor. If your cervical mucus appears to be an unusual color, such as green, or has an usual odor, you should see your doctor.

Recognize the characteristics of cervical mucus. Keep a record of your mucus characteristics. Check your cervical secretions before and after urinating. Analyze the cervical secretions in your underwear. Examine your vulva and its sensations. Evaluate the record of your cervical mucus. Stay consistent and motivated. Understand factors that can change cervical mucus. Consider basal body temperature monitoring. Plan or avoid sexual intercourse during fertile days. See your doctor.

https://www.wikihow.com/Become-a-DEA-Agent

How to Become a DEA Agent

To become a DEA agent, you'll need to be a U.S. citizen between the ages of 21 and 36. Also, while a college degree and prior law enforcement experience aren't required, they're highly recommended. You'll also need to be in excellent physical shape since DEA agents are required to pass a rigorous physical test. Also, make sure you're OK with moving to a new location since DEA agents don't get to choose where they're posted.

Know what you're getting into. If you do an in-depth search of the net, read about the topics, be confident and try your best to be ready by training/working on yourself (mentally and physically). you'll find that the number one thing every site will tell you is that you need to seriously think about this career path. It is dangerous. It is mentally and physically exhausting. It is the very definition of difficult. It is intense. It could be fatal. It is not an episode of Breaking Bad. You will be dealing with very dangerous people and very dangerous chemicals in very dangerous circumstances. You should know what these people do, what they are dealing what the drugs do to people, jail sentences and the prices and well basically everything about the system. It will test your physical prowess and your mental agility. It won't be glamorous. At the end of the day, you'll pine for the days of flipping burgers. This is not for the faint of heart. Be a US citizen between the ages of 21 and 36 at the time of application. The only exception is if you already work in a similar work environment with a similar agency and started at a younger age. You must have a valid driver's license at the time of application. Be willing to move. A condition of employment is that you are willing to go anywhere they tell you to go. It's best to realize this now. The odds of you getting posted exactly where you want to be are slim to none. If you really want to be a DEA Agent, you go where they want you to go. Go to college. Though a Bachelor's degree is not required, it's highly advised. If you don't have one, you'll need to spend years getting experience conducting narcotics/drug related investigations, working surveillance, arresting persons suspected of drug related violations and organizing evidence. If you haven't spent your Sunday afternoons doing this, a degree you'll need. Your Bachelor's degree would be best served in finance, accounting, computer technology, engineering or a foreign language. However, degrees in criminal justice or police science will also be received well. Your Grade Point Average (GPA) should be 2.95 or higher regardless of your degree. Get law enforcement experience. Most DEA agents have some type of prior law enforcement experience -- some cops, some military. Though it's not necessary, it certainly does help and make sense. Neither requires a college degree and both paths can be started near your hometown. If you don't have any experience and are young enough to still get started, consider one of these paths before you hit up the DEA for recruitment. Again, it is possible to be a DEA fresh out of college with no experience. Both are viable options and both paths have had people who have succeeded. It's merely a personal choice. Be in excellent physical shape. One of the initial hurdles to becoming a DEA Agent is the PTT -- the Physical Task Test. Even they consider it rigorous. As part of the application process, you'll have to pass this. And then it's onto training, which is even more intense. The PTT is comprised of pull ups, sit-ups, push ups, a shuttle run, and a 2-mile run. There is minimal time for rest between tasks and a minimum score must be achieved to pass. Meet the health requirements. In order to even be considered an applicant, you have to be in the right physical condition. That means your hearing must be unimpaired, your eyesight no weaker than 20/40 in one eye, have normal color vision, and be able to lift at least 45 lbs easily. Contact your local DEA office. A map of the entire nation and its offices can be found online. If that's not a current option, call (800) DEA-4288. An agent there will walk you through the basics. S/He will probably make you very aware of the career path and its realities. They are not trying to deter you from pursuing this; they are trying to ensure you're going in with as accurate a picture as possible. Attend an orientation session. If you meet all the requirements at that initial meeting, your name will be put down to attend an orientation session. At this session, dress professionally and bring your ID. It is here you'll fill out an application to be considered for training. Go through the written and oral assessment and panel interview. The best thing you can do for yourself during this part is to breathe, dress conservatively and professionally, show you've done your research on the organization, and be personable. Confidentiality agreements are signed prior to the process, so you may find very little actual detail online and from those you ask. Just rest assured that those with even zero experience pass. If you're looking for a really scholarly read on the DEA's hiring procedures, all the question you could possibly have are answered in the document you can find here. Take the urinalysis drug test, medical examination, and PTT. This one is pretty straightforward. Don't take drugs, get a good night's rest, and show up on time. Simple! Wahoo! Well, apart from the PTT requiring a super-high level of fitness. We've already covered what the PTT will be comprised of in the aforementioned section -- now it's time to put that preparation to practice. If you don't pass this, you won't be able to continue onto BAT. You'll be eligible to reapply in a year. Tell the truth on the polygraph examination. A polygraph test is an exam where you're hooked up to a machine that records your bodily reactions. The idea is that when you lie, your body will show it. Don't lie and you'll pass. No problem. Score well on the psychological assessments. The two tests in question are the MMPI-2 and the 16 Personality Factor Questionnaire, assessing your personality and your psychopathology. The short MMPI comes in at around 300 questions, with the long version clocking it at 567. Needless to say, these tests take their sweet time. There will be a psychologist on staff who will help you clarify any answers if need be. They are there to assist and will be present and available when your test is being processed. If you'd like to talk to them, they'd love to help. Some of the questions on the MMPI are straight up silly. "Do you often see ghosts?" is just one example. Often the same question is repeated in different forms and they are testing for consistency. Pass the background investigation. Again -- another step where if you're honest (and your record clean), you'll be fine. They'll ask you for references, fingerprint you, assess your moral character and reputation, the whole shebang. If your record is clean (which it better be) and your references check out, this will not be an issue. This will include obtaining information focusing on your personal history and education, personal and professional references, in addition to your work history. Be approved at the final hiring decision. After all these tests are done, you'll receive notice of whether or not you're cleared to start training in Virginia. If you don't receive notice automatically, don't fret. These things take time. Start BAT. The Basic Agent Training (BAT) for DEA agents is an intense, 18 week long program that is completed at the training facility located in Quantico, Virginia. This is 18 weeks of testing your mental and physical powers. You'll be studying undercover, surveillance and arrest techniques, defensive tactics and firearms training. In addition, you'll learn the basics of report writing, law and drug identification and recognition. Apart from the mental aspect, you will constantly undergo intense physical training. It's basically boot camp. Your superiors will rip into you, cutting out the fat from the meat, if you will. If you don't have the perseverance and fortitude to withstand the verbal and physical abuse, you won't make it. During the first month or so, trainees usually drop like flies. Get your assignment. Between the 8th and 12th week of your training, you'll receive notice of your post. There's no promise how long each post will last. An assignment may entail being transferred to any location based upon the operational requirements and needs of the Drug Enforcement Agency. Start being a superhero. A day on the job will be anything but boring. It will include investigating cases aimed at preventing the spread of drug use and putting those violators behind bars. You will be infiltrating drug rings, confiscating substances, testifying in court, and promoting educational programs. DEA agents will have to interview witnesses, collect evidence, and facilitate sting operations when required. Completing the investigation will involve written reports, wrapping up cases. Work hard. You'll be working with DTO's (drug trafficking organizations) and CS' (confidential sources) -- aka "snitches" -- on the big cases. Other days you'll be filing paperwork and sitting at your desk frustrated because you feel like you're getting nowhere. Whatever it is you're doing, it'll be intense -- sometimes physically, sometimes mentally, sometimes both. It is possible that you could eventually be assigned to a task in a foreign office maintained by the DEA. They have 87 foreign offices in 63 different countries. Agents go wherever drug enforcement laws affecting the US must take them. If you have a family, consider the fact that you may be required to travel on a moment's notice. Coordinate with other authorities. On any case, you won't be the only Big Kahuna on the job. An integral part of your work is coordinating with local, state or federal agencies that have legal jurisdiction over the investigation. You all must work as a team to get the job done.

Know what you're getting into. Be a US citizen between the ages of 21 and 36 at the time of application. Be willing to move. Go to college. Get law enforcement experience. Be in excellent physical shape. Meet the health requirements. Contact your local DEA office. Attend an orientation session. Go through the written and oral assessment and panel interview. Take the urinalysis drug test, medical examination, and PTT. Tell the truth on the polygraph examination. Score well on the psychological assessments. Pass the background investigation. Be approved at the final hiring decision. Start BAT. Get your assignment. Start being a superhero. Work hard. Coordinate with other authorities.

https://www.wikihow.com/Make-Bar-Soap

How to Make Bar Soap

If you want to make your own bar soap, use caution and wear eye protection and gloves, since you'll be working with the dangerous chemical lye. When you're ready to start, heat water on a stove while you measure out the lye. Pour the lye into the water a little at a time while stirring continuously until the lye dissolves. Then, heat the oils in a separate pan, add the oil mixture to the lye, and keep stirring until the batter thickens. Finally, pour the soap batter into molds and let it cure for 24 hours.

Cut a soap base into chunks that are easy to melt. Chop up about 1 lb (0.45 kg) of soap or glycerine into cubes ⁄ 2  in (1.3 cm) in size. These small pieces melt evenly so your finished batter is less likely to be chunky. Using small chunks also prevents the batter from burning while you stir it. You can also try shredding the soap with a grater or vegetable peelers. Glycerine is a common base available online or at craft supply stores. It is made with lye like any bar of soap but doesn't have any active lye in it, so it's safe to touch. Choose white and clear-colored soaps if you plan on adding coloring later. Darker soaps aren't as great for customizing, although you can still add fragrances and thickeners to them. Place the cut soap base into a heatproof pot or bowl. The container you need depends on how you plan on melting the soap. The easiest way to do it is on a stovetop. Simply place the soap in a stainless steel pot, crockpot, or double boiler. If the stove isn't an option, melt the soap in a microwave. If you use a microwave, choose a microwave-safe. Look for a label on the bottom of the container or on its packaging. Heat and stir the soap constantly until it melts. Heat the soap on a stovetop or in your microwave to about 120 °F (49 °C). Move the melting soap around with a rubber spatula to help it melt. Don't let it sit still for more than 30 seconds or else it may burn. Stir it until it reaches a smooth consistency. If the soap batter looks thick and dry, mix a little bit of water into it. Add water gradually, stirring the batter to keep it at a liquid consistency. Many soap bases reach a good consistency within a couple of minutes. Depending on the base you use, you may need to keep stirring for 15 minutes or more to make the batter smooth. If you're using a microwave, heat the soap for 30 seconds at a time. Give it a good stir to distribute the heat. Soap bases begin to burn around 140 °F (60 °C). Use a kitchen thermometer as needed to track the temperature. Add tea, salt, and other ingredients to color the soap. Fresh-brewed coffee and tea change the batter's color but don't often leave much of a smell in the finished product. Mix in some blended fruits or vegetables to give your soap a deep, vibrant color. Soap dyes are another option for unusual colors. Also, use colored salt and spices for additional variety. For example, add about 2.6 oz (74 g) of pink Himalayan sea salt to turn a batter pink, or mix in a little tumeric to give the batter an orange color. Brew coffee and tea separately from the soap batter. Remove coffee grounds and tea bags before adding the liquid to the batter. Mix in essential oils and other ingredients to make your soap fragrant. Stir a few drops of any essential oil into your batter to customize it. Flowers and herbs are some alternatives to essential oils. Try using ingredients like powdered beet root or sandalwood. Ingredients like vanilla, honey, and brown sugar can also give your soap a pleasant quality that makes it difficult to put down. Whole flowers and herbs lose color over time and may discolor your soap. Try placing them on top of the batter after you pour it into the mold instead of mixing them in. Use oils and other ingredients to change the soap’s texture. For softer soap bars, heat cooking oil in a separate pan, then mix it into the batter. Olive oil, coconut oil, and vegetable oil are a few good options for softer, silkier soap bars. Some people melt glycerine cubes to add to the batter. To thicken the batter, add a scoop of oatmeal, honey, or beeswax. Choose vegetable oils to form a base for your soap. You can use all kinds of vegetable oil to create soap. The type of oil you choose determines the amount of other ingredients you need. For your first time making soap, keep it simple by sticking to 1 or 2 different types of oils. Pomace olive oil from a grocery store is a common base to start with. Measure out 38 oz (1,100 g) of oil on a kitchen scale by weight instead of volume. For a recipe that is a little fancier than a basic olive oil soap, try pure hemp seed or palm oil. Mix the oil with equal parts olive oil. For a creamier soap with more lather, try mixing 1 part coconut oil, 1 part palm oil, and 1 part olive oil. Add some sweet almond oil to give the soap a pleasant scent. Use a lye calculator to determine how much lye you need to make soap. If you are following a specific soap recipe, use the amount of lye specified in the recipe. Otherwise, rely on a lye calculator. The amount of lye you need varies depending on the oil you use. Use the correct ratio of lye to oil to make solid bars of soap that don't sting your skin when you use them. Search online to find your own lye calculator or use the one at http://www.pinemeadows.net/lyecalc.php. Another lye calculator is available at https://www.thesage.com/calcs/LyeCalc.html. Some calculators have an option for superfatting, which means using extra fat to make the soap softer. For a good default consistency, set the option at 5%. Pour the water into a heat-proof mixing bowl. For a basic olive oil soap, you need about 13.2 oz (370 g) of water. Measure out the water into a heat-safe glass or plastic measuring cup placed on a kitchen scale. Transfer the water into a stainless steel pot or glass bowl. Keep in mind that lye does corrode glass and plastic a little bit over time, so stainless steel is usually your best bet when mixing lye and water. If you're making a different type of soap, use the amount of water specified by the recipe or lye calculator. Tap water often has minerals that affect how your soap turns out. To avoid this, purchase distilled water from a grocery store. If you halved a recipe to make a small batch of soap, remember to halve every ingredient accordingly. Measure out the lye into a separate container on a kitchen scale. Carefully pour about 4.8 oz (140 g) of lye into a heat-safe glass or plastic measuring cup. Weigh it on the scale. Make sure you have the amount specified by your recipe or lye calculator. Handle it with caution to avoid spills, and use stainless steel or glass containers you don't plan on cooking with in the future. Lye is available online or at most hardware stores. Lye is very caustic, so handle it carefully. Cover yourself with protective goggles, rubber gloves, and long-sleeved clothing. If you get any on your skin, wash it off immediately with cold water. The most common type of lye is sodium hydroxide (NaOH). Potassium hydroxide (KOH), or potash, is also available and used in soap making. Read the label to figure out which type you have. They are similar but need to be added in different amounts. Pour the lye into the water gradually while stirring it. Stir the ingredients together with a stainless steel or heat-safe plastic whisk. Let the mixture warm up and turn white before adding more lye. Continue stirring and pouring until you finish dissolving all of the lye. The mixture will be scalding hot. Never pour the water into the lye or dump all of the lye into the water at once. This can lead to a lye explosion splattering everything with dangerous chemicals. Lye and water release heat and fumes when mixed together. Make sure you're ready for this before continuing. Ventilate your area and consider wearing a dust mask. Test the lye water with a thermometer until it reaches 110 °F (43 °C). Set the container aside while you wait. After the lye begins cooling, stick a stainless steel thermometer in it to keep track of its temperature. Let it cool to a temperature between 100 and 110 °F (38 and 43 °C). Begin preparing your oils while you wait for the lye to cool. You will need the oils ready to mix into the lye. Mix and heat the base oils to about 110 °F (43 °C). The goal is to get the oils to the same temperature as the lye water. Weigh the oils using a kitchen scale, then melt solid oils over low heat. Stir in the liquid oils and heat them until they are between 100 and 110 °F (38 and 43 °C). Heat the oils to 125 °F (52 °C) only if the recipe you're using specifies that the mixture can handle the higher temperature. Hot oil mixtures are called “fixed oils” in some recipes. Blend the oils with the lye water until the mixture thickens. Pour the hot oil into the lye water, stirring it with a stainless steel whisk or mixing spoon. Wooden spoons and stirrers also work but splinter with repeated uses. Stirring on average takes between 15 minutes to half an hour. You may need even more time to get the batter to the consistency of pudding or toothpaste. The finished mixture is called a trace. When it is done, the stirrer leaves lingering trace lines in it. If you lift the stirrer, the batter will stay clumped on it. Use an electric hand mixer or stick blender to speed up the stirring process. Put the soap batter in a deep container to prevent splattering. If you use a stick blender, fully submerge it in the batter before turning it on. Tap it against the side of the container to release air bubbles. Start on a low setting at first, then turn it to medium or high as the mixture thickens. Add fragrances or additives if you wish to customize your soap. Essential oils, herbs, and thickeners are a few ways to make your soap unique. Use different ingredients to color and scent your soap. After choosing your additives, stir them into the batter with a spoon, spatula, or whisk. Typically, a soap contains no more than 6% additives by volume. Research the benefits of herbs and essential oils. For example, add lavender to scent the soap and nourish your skin. Oatmeal, coffee grounds, and honey are a few common thickeners that make soap coarser for exfoliation. Clean and line your soap molds. Soap molds are basically boxes for the liquid batter to set in. Any dry plastic container works, or you can buy silicone molds specifically for soap. If you have a wooden container, cover the inside with a silicone liner or freezer paper. Soap molds are available online and at some general stores. If you need a liner, freezer papers are available at most supermarkets. Pour the soap batter into the mold. Fill each mold close to the top. Tap the mold against a hard surface a few times to break up air bubbles. Use a rubber spatula to scrape out excess batter to pour into a different mold or throw away. Bump the mold against a hard surface a few times if it looks frothy. Try dropping it from a low height to knock out stubborn air bubbles. Don't worry about breaking the soap into smaller bars yet. Wait until the soap solidifies for that. Wrap the mold inside cardboard and a clean towel. Tape a piece of cardboard over the mold to cover the soap. Then, wrap a towel around the entire mold to insulate it. Doing this helps the mold set properly, leading to better soap. If you don't have cardboard, place parchment paper over the mold. Wait 24 hours before cutting into bars. The saponification process takes at least a day to happen. When you remove the soap from the mold, it will be hard and ready for cutting. Use a sharp kitchen knife to break the soap down into smaller bars. To smooth out the sides, scrape the soap with a vegetable peelers. Keep your soap at room temperature and out of the reach of children and pets. If you used fresh lye, the soap is still dangerous to touch at this point. If your soap is too soft to cut, let it rest for an extra day. This happens most often in large, single molds. Dry the soap for several weeks before using it. Move the soap bars into a cool but well-ventilated area. Try placing them near a window in your basement or on a countertop. Put them on top of wax paper or another disposable material to prevent the oils from damaging the surface the soap is on. Soap takes about 4 weeks to finish curing. Soap can take anywhere from 3 to 8 weeks to cure completely. The time it needs depends on the oils you used. Check your recipe for the recommended curing time. Soap made using the melt and pour method typically solidifies within a few hours. At most, let it rest overnight before taking it out of the mold.

Cut a soap base into chunks that are easy to melt. Place the cut soap base into a heatproof pot or bowl. Heat and stir the soap constantly until it melts. Add tea, salt, and other ingredients to color the soap. Mix in essential oils and other ingredients to make your soap fragrant. Use oils and other ingredients to change the soap’s texture. Choose vegetable oils to form a base for your soap. Use a lye calculator to determine how much lye you need to make soap. Pour the water into a heat-proof mixing bowl. Measure out the lye into a separate container on a kitchen scale. Pour the lye into the water gradually while stirring it. Test the lye water with a thermometer until it reaches 110 °F (43 °C). Mix and heat the base oils to about 110 °F (43 °C). Blend the oils with the lye water until the mixture thickens. Add fragrances or additives if you wish to customize your soap. Clean and line your soap molds. Pour the soap batter into the mold. Wrap the mold inside cardboard and a clean towel. Wait 24 hours before cutting into bars. Dry the soap for several weeks before using it.

https://www.wikihow.com/Postpone-Jury-Duty

How to Postpone Jury Duty

If you need to postpone your jury service, call the court using the number provided on your summons as soon as possible. Alternatively, check on your county's website to see if you can postpone online. Whichever way you contact the courts, have some more convenient dates ready, since you'll probably be asked to reschedule your jury duty. If you're asked to provide supporting documents, like a doctor's note, take it to the court in person, or call them to ask how you can send it over.

Don't skip jury service. The summons you receive commanding you to appear in court is a legal document. If you ignore it, you could subject yourself to fines or other punishment. Accordingly, you should not just throw the summons in the trash and forget about it. Check if you can postpone. Not every court will allow jurors to postpone their jury service to a more convenient date. Also, some counties will allow postponement in only certain situations but not others. In order to see if you can postpone, you can call the court at the phone number provided on your summons. You can also search online. Your state court often explains how to postpone jury service on its website. Try to find more convenient dates. If you cannot serve when called, then try to find some dates in the near future when you can serve on the jury. You will probably be asked to pick new dates or to give the court a general sense of when you will be available to serve. In Sacramento County, for example, you cannot request an indefinite postponement. Instead, you can request up to 90 days. Get supporting documentation. Some courts grant a deferral only in limited situations. These courts want to see written documentation supporting the reason why you are requesting a deferral. For example, if you are recovering from a medical situation, then you would need a doctor's note. Also, if serving would cause severe financial hardship, then you should be prepared to show the court financial documents, such as W-2 forms and evidence of monthly expenses. Call. You should be provided a phone number on your summons/notice. Call and ask the person at the courthouse if you can postpone your service. Briefly explain why. You shouldn't wait too long to call. For example, in Los Angeles County you cannot postpone if you wait until the weekend before you are supposed to serve. In Colorado, you must submit your postponement request at least six business days before your jury service date. Regardless of where you live, try to inform the court as soon as possible. Postpone jury service online. Your county may also have an online website where you can request a postponement. The summons may direct you to the website. Alternately, you may have to search the Internet. Type “postpone jury duty” and then your county. Each online system is different. However, you will probably be asked for a juror index number (or other number provided on the summons) and the service date (also on your summons). You then might be asked to provide new dates when you can serve. Request disqualification instead. You might be disqualified from serving on the jury. This is different than merely not being able to serve because of scheduling or work conflicts. Instead, certain people are disqualified from serving on a jury. If you meet one of those reason, then tell the court by phone or online: you are not a U.S. citizen you are not at least 18 years of age you do not reside in the county your understanding of the English language is insufficient you are an appointed conservator you are serving as a Grand juror or you served on a jury within the last 12 months you have been convicted of a felony (or of malfeasance while in office) and have not had your civil rights restored you are a peace officer other reasons Get excused. If you are unable to get a postponement, then you can always try to get excused from service on the day when the jury is picked. Go to court and take your summons and any provided questionnaire. When the judge and lawyers are questioning you during the “voir dire” process, you can deny that you can be fair or impartial. Try to find a reason why you would be biased. If you are called to serve on a criminal jury, think about whether you or a family member has ever been the victim of a crime. If you have, then tell the lawyers that this experience prevents you from being objective. Even if the judge doesn't believe you, the attorneys might. They are able to strike jurors from the panel who they do not think will be fair to their client.

Don't skip jury service. Check if you can postpone. Try to find more convenient dates. Get supporting documentation. Call. Postpone jury service online. Request disqualification instead. Get excused.

https://www.wikihow.pet/Help-Your-Cat-Love-His-Crate

How to Help Your Cat Love His Crate

To help your cat love its crate, start by placing the crate out on the floor with the door open for a few days so your cat can sniff and explore it on its own time. You can put soft bedding, your cat's favorite toys, and treats in the crate to encourage your cat to go inside it. However, never force your cat inside the crate since you could end up scaring it even more. Once your cat seems comfortable going into the crate, practice closing the door for brief moments, gradually increasing how long you leave the door closed for each time. Finally, when you're able to close the crate and pick it up without your cat panicking, start taking it on short drives in the car while it's in the crate.

Start as young as possible. If you have the option, start crate training your cat very early. A small kitten will adapt easier to a crate than an adult cat that has a lifetime of crate distrust built up. However, starting crate training early in life is not always possible and that shouldn't dissuade you from trying. Just because you have an adult cat, for instance, that doesn't mean it can't grow to love its crate. Allow your cat to get used to the crate. If you don't want your cat to be fearful in its crate, then the cat needs to be allowed to get used to the crate at times when it is not traveling. Place the crate, with its door open, in your home on a permanent basis and let your cat explore it. The goal is to make the crate somewhere that the cat willingly hangs out and takes shelter. Do not force the cat into the crate. This will only give it negative feelings about the crate. The cat needs to go in on its own accord. To lure your cat towards the crate, put familiar bedding and a treat or your cat's favorite toy inside. Allow the cat to go inside, get the treat or toy, and then leave the crate without interference. Do not close the door. After you do this several times, the cat will begin to trust the crate as a location where good things happen. Acclimate the cat to a closed crate. The hardest part of getting your cat to love its crate can be getting it used to a closed crate. Confinement can be hard for many animals, and add the stress of travel to that and your cat could have bad associations with a closed crate. So, the goal is to make your cat feel like the crate is a safe haven instead of a dangerous trap. Begin closing the crate door momentarily while the cat is inside. Do this only briefly at first, as extended confinement immediately can make your cat panic. Begin to lengthen the amount of time the door is closed. Always stay right there and reassure your cat that all is well. Finally, close the crate door and then lift up the crate. If your cat remains calm, move the crate outside to the car. If you work up to this gradually, your cat is more likely to remain calm. Travel to positive locations at first. You do not want your cat to assume that it is going to the vet every time it gets in its crate. To accomplish this, you need to take your cat to pleasant places the first couple times you take it in the car in its crate. For example, put the cat in its crate in the car, drive around briefly, and then return home. Give the cat a treat once you return home. Do this several times so that it connects a car ride with getting a treat. Get the right sized crate. Your cat will never love its crate if that crate is too small for its body. A cat should be able to stand up and turn around in a crate. Also, it shouldn't be hard for you to physically fit the cat in the crate. Even if you have a crate that is the right size, a cat that is resistant to getting in a crate can make it hard for you. With this in mind, just make sure that your cat have some extra room around it when sitting in its crate. Most crates that are sold at pet stores or online will provide a general weight range that will fit comfortably in the crate. Take this into consideration when buying a crate. . Clean the crate Bad smells and uncleanliness can make the crate very unattractive to your cat. Take the time to wash your cat's crate regularly. Use soap and water to scrub it down, remembering to clean all surfaces. Then thoroughly rinse off the soap. A crate can be especially unattractive to a cat if it has the smells of other cats on it. If you borrow a crate or get a used crate, be sure to wash is very thoroughly before attempting to put your cat in it. Provide familiar bedding. In order to make the crate more comfortable, provide a soft surface to sit or lay on that has comforting smells. A piece of familiar bedding, such as a blanket that the cat lays on normally, can go a long way towards making a crate more comfortable. Make sure that the bedding does not take up too much space in your cat's crate. You want to assure that your cat has enough room to move around in its cage comfortably and too much bedding can limit that movement. Give treats and toys. Once again, make your cat comfortable by providing items that it is used to. The cat's favorite toy or a treat that it always goes wild for will help it to remain calm and embrace the crate as a safe and happy place. Messy treats in the crate are not a good idea. You want to limit the treats to ones that will not get all over the cat and make a mess that the cat will dislike. Use feline pheromones. There are feline pheromone products that are sold at many pet stores and online that can calm your cat down while it's in its carrier. These pheromones decrease the cat's anxiety and relax it by making the smell of the carrier familiar. Most feline pheromone products need to be sprayed in the crate a length of time before placing the cat inside, for instance many need to be sprayed a half hour before contact with the cat. Plan ahead for this time requirement so that you can use pheromones before you need to take the cat somewhere. Position the crate. It is easiest to get a cat in a carrier if the door is on the top of it. This allows you to set the cat down into the crate instead of having to angle it in sideways. If you have a crate with a door on the side, place it on its back so that the door faces up. Be sure that when you place the crate so that the door faces up that it is still stable and won't tip over easily. This may mean that you need to lean it up against a wall for stability. Hold the cat correctly. To get your cat into its crate you need to have a firm hold on the cat but you don't want to hold it so tight that it tries to escape. To do this, support the cat's chest with one hand and its rear legs with the other hand. This will allow you to control its body easily. If your cat is really resistant to being picked up, you may need to restrain it a bit to get it in the crate. Wrap the cat in a towel so that its legs are immobilized before picking it up and putting it in its crate. Place the cat in the crate. Lower your cat into its crate feet first. Since you have its feet under control, this should be relatively easy. Once your cat's rear end is at the bottom of the carrier, you can let go of its feet and chest. As you lower it down, be sure to keep control of the cat so that it doesn't fall and hurt itself. Close the crate and reposition it. Once the cat is in the carrier you should close and lock the door so that the cat can't escape. You will also need to place the carrier on its bottom if you repositioned it to get the cat in. If your cat is doing well and not trying to escape, give it a treat to reinforce the good behavior.

Start as young as possible. Allow your cat to get used to the crate. Acclimate the cat to a closed crate. Travel to positive locations at first. Get the right sized crate. . Provide familiar bedding. Give treats and toys. Use feline pheromones. Position the crate. Hold the cat correctly. Place the cat in the crate. Close the crate and reposition it.

https://www.wikihow.com/Have-Skin-Like-a-Celeb

How to Have Skin Like a Celeb

Having skin like a celeb is all about maintaining a good skincare routine and healthy lifestyle. Make sure you wash your face twice a day using a mild soap to keep your skin clear of dirt and debris. Keep your skin properly hydrated by moisturizing twice a day, once in the morning and once before you go to bed. The other part of keeping your skin clear and healthy is drinking plenty of water and eating a healthy, balanced diet. You should also get 7-9 hours of beauty sleep a night, which helps your skin cells repair themselves.

Wash your face at least twice a day. Remove oils and debris from your face every morning and night to get clear, glowing skin. If you work outside or are sweating more than usual, you may want to wash your face more frequently. Use mild, unscented, and dye-free soap and water. Check the ingredients. In most cases, a mild soap is enough to keep your skin free from blemishes and give it a healthy glow. Make sure products don't contain peroxide and alcohol. These ingredients strip protective oils from the skin, leading to dry, uneven complexion. Body washes often contain harsh dyes or fragrances. If you want the aroma therapy experience of using your favorite scented body wash without exposing skin to potentially damaging chemicals, add one teaspoon of the scented body wash to each ounce of wash that is more gentle. You'll get the clean, moisturized skin you need and the fragrance you want. Use a tissue to assess your skin type. An hour after you wash your face, run a tissue over your forehead and the bridge of your nose. If the tissue is oily, you likely have an oily skin type. If the tissue reveals flakes of skin, you likely have dry skin. If you have oily skin, you'll want to look for products that are light lotions or foams rather than heavier creams and masks because oil on the skin may create a barrier sealing creams or masks onto skin and clogging pores. If you have dry skin, avoid soaps that have alcohol and peroxide, and apply moisturizers more liberally. Alpha hydroxy acids, AHAs, are good for anti-aging and keeping an even skin tone , but they can be drying so patients with dry skin should use them sparingly. Glycolic acid is good for oily skin and lactic acid is good for dry skin. Use a facial treatment with enzymes to smooth and brighten skin tone no matter what your skin type. Vitamin C is also essential to protect and repair both oily and dry skin. Use a product with sulfur once a week to reduce oil on the skin without drying. Use different products for day and night. Your skin has different needs according to the time of day. In the morning, you want to prepare your skin for the rest of the day. Start by using a gentle cleanser to soothe your skin. Next, apply toner if that is part of your routine. Most importantly, you want to choose a daytime moisturizer. Ideally, a daytime moisturizer should contain SPF. It should also be light, and should not make your skin feel oily. At night, you want to use a thicker, richer moisturizer. Retinols and peptides are good ingredients to look for, as they can help repair your skin overnight. Clear up acne with peroxide and salicylic acid. When celebs get pimples, they may have to put their film shoot on hold, hide from paparazzi, and otherwise worry about ending up on the “celebs without make up” page. Many of these celebrities rely on dermatologists to give them amino acid therapy with light catalyst a few times a year to avoid these breakouts all together. However, professional therapies can cost as much as $4000. Instead, you should consider using a cleanser with benzoyl peroxide or salicylic acid to treat chronic breakouts. They don't work as quickly, but you'll start seeing a difference within a few weeks. These products range from ten to fifty dollars. Use a cleansing brush on your whole body. Deep clean into pores and remove dead skin quickly and gently using a soft-bristled brush in combination with a mild facial cleanser. You can find brushes at most beauty stores and pharmacies. You've likely heard of using a facial brush, but you may also want to consider dry brushing your skin from head to toe. This removes dead skin, improves circulation, and evens out skin tone. Wear sunscreen everyday. Even if you don't get sunburns, sunscreen is essential to protect your skin from UV rays, pollutants, and harsh weather conditions. Choose sunscreens that are oil free and at least SPF 15 or higher. Sunscreen typically wears off after three hours, so bring sunscreen with you and reapply often for best results. You may also want to consider a moisturizer and sunscreen combined to simplify your care routine. Consider sunless tanning. A high quality sunless tanning lotion offers a sun-kissed glow without exposing skin to the sun. Additionally, they even out skin tone, block UV rays, and moisturize. You can also consider professional sunless tanning to give the entire body a consistent color and give skin a healthy-looking glow. Moisturize throughout the day. Don't assume one application of sunscreen or moisturizer will keep your skin moisturized and protected all day. Skin that's exposed to ultraviolet light, smog, rain, wind, and other elements needs to be retreated periodically, and most sunscreens are ineffective after just three hours. Reapply a moisturizer or sunscreen every three to six hours for optimal effect. If you have extra dry skin, consider steaming. You can buy steamers specifically made for facials that cost between $25 and $100, but it's just as effective to use a boiled pot of water. Bring the water to a fast boil, remove it from heat, and lean over the pot allowing the steam to cover your face for about ten minutes. Pat skin dry and apply moisturizer. Applying moisturizers improves circulation, preventing the loss of collagen that leads to an increased appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. If you have oily skin, look for moisturizers that are specifically made to reduce oiliness, and always choose oil and petroleum free products. Adopt healthy habits. It's important to lead a healthy lifestyle to keep the skin on your face and body free from blemishes and glowing beautifully. There are a number of daily habits you can adopt to improve your skin and your overall well being. Sleep eight hours a day. Beauty sleep is no joke. During rest, the body heals and rejuvenates itself. Without adequate sleep, your skin cells are unable to repair, and over time, this can result in skin with a dull appearance. Eat fruits and veggies. Not only are these foods good for your health, they also contain vitamins and minerals essential to keeping skin healthy. Choose foods high in vitamins A, C, and E as they help to protect skin and heal damage. Cut out foods with a lot of sugar, grease, and/or oil as they can cause blemishes or give you oily skin. Limit sodium intact as it can cause puffiness and swelling. Be sure to drink water. Water flushes toxins out of the body, hydrates from the inside out, and improves skin's elasticity. Avoid stressful situations. Relaxation is proven to promote improved whole body health and skin clarity. Going to a spa is a great way to relax and receive great skin treatments all at the same time. Smiling and laughing have been proven to clear skin, and research suggests this is due to the stress relieving effects of laughter. Try to avoid dairy, soy, and coffee since it can trigger adult acne and can increase inflammation. Make a hydrating mask. One of the most enviable aspects of celebrity skin is a fresh, healthy glow. Making a homemade mask is a great way to get those results without breaking the bank. Best of all, many masks can be made by using ingredients you already have! Mix together ½ cup of mashed papaya, 1 teaspoon of honey, and 1 egg white. Apply the mixture to your face. Leave on for approximately 10 minutes. Rinse to find your dull skin looking healthy and bright! Remove wrinkles naturally. Celebrities spend thousands of dollars on collagen therapy, Botox, and other treatments to reduce the appearance of wrinkles. Many of these professional therapies are now affordable, but you can also achieve similar results by creating your own facial mask that harnesses the power of resveratrol, an antioxidant found in large amounts in red wine. Combine a ¼ cup of red wine, ¼ cup of kaolin clay available at health food stores, 2 tablespoons of grapeseed oil, and one tablespoon of oat flour. Apply the mask for ten minutes, and gently wipe away. Minimize pores with acai berry. This super food is high in antioxidants and polyphenols that are good for overall health as well as making skin look great. One of their most important uses is as an astringent to shrink pores. You can use acai berry powder or slush combined with sugar and olive oil to create a pore minimizing, exfoliating facial. Combine 2/3 cup of sugar, 2 teaspoons acai powder or slush, 10 whole berries of any kind, and 1 tablespoon of olive oil. Blend to achieve a thick, coarse consistency. Apply to the face for five minutes. Gently clean away with warm water. Brighten skin with beer. You can create a simple foaming cleanser using beer that will smooth your complexion leaving you with a healthy glow. Combine ½ a cup of beer, 1 egg white, and 2 teaspoons of lime juice. The B vitamins and yeast in beer mixed with the egg white foams creating a hydrating cleanser that removes dead skin. The vitamin C boost from the lime juice leaves skin looking smooth, bright, and healthy. Talk to a dermatologist. If you're ever unsure whether or not a product is right for your skin type or cleansing and moisturizing needs, doctors can give you recommendations and even prescribe treatments to get your skin glowing. Dermatologists may also be able to offer in-office treatments that improve the appearance of skin or help with various skin concerns. Ask your dermatologist for recommendations on products and treatments you can do at home. Make sure your dermatologist walks you through all steps of at-home skin care. Ask the doctor, "What specifically should I do to care for my skin every morning/evening/throughout the day?" Take notes about specific care products. Be open and honest about your budget, so the doctor can make recommendations that fit your needs and are affordable. Treat acne with cortisone. Your dermatologist or a professional esthetician can administer injections of this medication. For most people, this almost instantly minimizes the size of pimples, and can be used regularly to clear up acne, bug bites, rashes, eczema, and other chronic skin conditions. Consider Botox. This is no longer the face-freezing treatment it used to be. You can even ask your dermatologist about “Botox Lite.” This is the placement of small amounts of Botox across the forehead (not just at the creased areas around eyes) that gives the eyes and forehead a smoother overall appearance without the frozen look people dread. Botox treatment cost between $100 and $200, and should be touched up two or three times each year. Receive a microdermabrasion. These treatments are fast and comfortable. Great for both oily and dry skin, they use crystals to remove dead and dying skin cells, revealing healthy new skin below. This also allows other products to penetrate more deeply for improved effectiveness. You can get these treatments form a dermatologist or esthetician, but they may cost as much as $400. You can also remove dead skin at home using cleansers with exfoliating beads and skin brushes at least once each week. These products can cost as little as five dollars. Get a facial. Professional facials remove dead skin, unclog pores, and rejuvenate the appearance of skin tone for a healthy glow. If you're unable to afford the cost of regular facials with a professional esthetician, you can also do your own facials at home. Check your local beauty store or pharmacy for products that include alpha hydroxy acids and enzymes that typically cost between $20 and $100. These are the ingredients that make professional facials effective. Laser facials can be used to quickly and effectively remove dead skin, heal scars or dark spots, and leave skin flawless. Get a full body facial. These professional masques pull out toxins, remove dead skin cells, and even skin tone. Pulsed light and radio wave facials also offer improved quality and comfort for patients wishing to remove or minimize the appearance of dark spots, varicose veins, and other flaws. Additionally, these treatments pulse the skin flattening, smoothing, and tightening the appearance of face, neck, hands, and other areas. Radio waves can be used to redo the entire surface of the body tightening and smoothing.

Wash your face at least twice a day. Use a tissue to assess your skin type. Use different products for day and night. Clear up acne with peroxide and salicylic acid. Use a cleansing brush on your whole body. Wear sunscreen everyday. Moisturize throughout the day. Adopt healthy habits. Make a hydrating mask. Remove wrinkles naturally. Minimize pores with acai berry. Brighten skin with beer. Talk to a dermatologist. Treat acne with cortisone. Consider Botox. Receive a microdermabrasion. Get a facial.

https://www.wikihow.com/Care-for-a-Garden-Spider

How to Care for a Garden Spider

To care for a garden spider, house it in a small spider cage or terrarium with a secure lid. Next, spread about 1 inch of garden soil across the bottom of the cage and scatter a few sticks and leaves on top. Feed your spider live insects like crickets and flies 1-2 times per week and be sure to keep a shallow dish of fresh water inside the enclosure.

Check your garden between May and November. Extreme cold temperatures will kill off garden spiders or make them harder to find since they won't be spinning webs. Plan on capturing a garden spider during warm spring, summer, and autumn months. If you live in a climate with extreme temperatures, you may need to protect the spider from freezing temperatures or severe heat. Pay attention to when you normally see spider webs in your yard. These are the best times to find a garden spider. Search wooded or shady parts of your yard for webs. Garden spiders are resourceful about where they build their webs. Look for classic round spider webs in the garden, along hedges, near patios, in shrubs, or around trees. It may be easier to spot the webs in the morning when they're covered with sparkling dew. You can also look in corners of garden sheds or on the outside of your house for spider webs. Identify what a garden spider looks like. Once you've found a web, look at the spider that's on it. A garden spider will have an egg-shaped abdomen that's mainly black. A male garden spider will have pale yellow patches on the abdomen and the female will have bright yellow patches. Leave a spider if you see the egg sac attached to the web. The female spider should stay in the web so she can prevent the sac from being attacked by other insects, such as ants. The egg sac will look like a very tiny, papery bag and it's usually placed near the center so the female spider can protect it. Purchase a cage or terrarium. Since spiders don't need a lot of space, you can purchase a small spider cage or terrarium from your local pet store or online. Ensure that the container has a secure lid so your spider can't get out. Many extra-small containers you can buy at the pet store are around 4 by 7 inches (10 cm × 18 cm) in size. The lid should also have some ventilation so your garden spider can get fresh air. Make your own cage if you don't want to buy one. You can easily make modifications to a simple container or jar instead of buying a spider cage. The container should have a lid that you can close or screw onto the container. Then ask an adult to make a few holes in the lid so your spider can get fresh air. The air holes should be small enough that the spider can't escape through them. Add soil, leaves, and sticks to the cage. Spread about 1 inch (2.5 cm) of garden soil across the bottom of the cage. Gather sticks, branches, and leaves from your yard and scatter them in the cage. This will give the spider material to weave a web from and places to hide or climb. Use yard material that hasn't been sprayed with pesticides or insecticides. Put the spider in the cage. Once you've prepared the cage and found a garden spider, take a jar or small plastic tub and hold it in front of the spider's web. Hold the lid directly behind the spider and bring it towards the container so the spider is trapped. Then release the spider into the prepared habitat. It's fine if you get some of the spider's web in the jar. Place the cage in a secure spot in your house. Since garden spiders are exposed to outside temperatures, they'll be fine with the temperatures in your house. Put the cage or terrarium somewhere out of reach of small children or pets. Since the spider could overheat if you put it in direct sunlight, don't put the cage in a window. Set out water for your spider. Since most garden spiders are small, your garden spider only needs a little water in its cage. Take a plastic bottle cap and turn it upside down. Fill it with water and set it in the cage to act as a water dish. If you prefer, fill a spray bottle with water and spritz the spider's web once every day. Ensure that the inside of the cage doesn't become damp or it could mold. Gather insects to feed the garden spider. Use a net to catch flying insects, such as butterflies , wasps, and flies. These are the insects your garden spider usually catches in its web and eats. If you'd rather buy insects, purchase crickets from your local pet store. Keep in mind that the spider may prefer flying insects. Offer insects to the spider 1 to 2 times a week. Garden spiders don't need a lot of feeding since they'll be able to eat on a single insect for a while. Place 1 of the insects that you caught or purchased into the spider's web 1 to 2 times every week. Space out your feedings so you're not leaving the spider too much food in its web. For example, instead of feeding on Monday and Tuesday, feed the spider on Monday and Friday. Observe your garden spider in its cage. Watch your spider in its cage and pay attention to what it likes to eat. You may even be able to see it repairing or spinning the web.

Check your garden between May and November. Search wooded or shady parts of your yard for webs. Identify what a garden spider looks like. Leave a spider if you see the egg sac attached to the web. Purchase a cage or terrarium. Make your own cage if you don't want to buy one. Add soil, leaves, and sticks to the cage. Put the spider in the cage. Place the cage in a secure spot in your house. Set out water for your spider. Gather insects to feed the garden spider. Offer insects to the spider 1 to 2 times a week. Observe your garden spider in its cage.

https://www.wikihow.com/Join-Delta-Force

How to Join Delta Force

To join Delta Force, you'll need to enlist in the Army as a regular soldier and serve for at least 4 years. While you serve, focus on attaining the rank of at least E-4 and volunteer for combat arms jobs so you can qualify more quickly. Once you meet the requirements, attend training at Fort Benning to develop the necessary skills for becoming a member of Delta Force. Finally, complete your preparation by attending qualification courses in subjects like Air Operations and Unconventional Warfare.

Enlist in the Army. You must have a minimum of four years in Service to qualify for Delta Force, so your first step in becoming a Delta Force operative is to enlist in the Army as a regular soldier and work steadily to rise through the ranks. Take and pass the Physical Fitness Assessment (PFA) and qualify for security clearance with your recruiter and discuss your ambitions to join Delta Force. All applicants for SFOD-D must be male, at least 22 years old, have a general technical score of 110 or higher. You must attain the rank of E-4 through E-8, with at least four years in service, and have at least two years remaining on your contract to qualify. To get started on the right foot, talk to your recruiter about your eventual desires to end up in an elite unit like Delta Force, so you'll be advised correctly. For the most part, you'll want to volunteer for a combat arms job, to qualify more quickly for more advanced training and specialization. For the most part, Delta Force soldiers are Green Berets or Rangers first, then are recruited out of their specialization. Make joining the special forces your first goal. Attend Infantry One Station Unit Training (OSUT). OSUT combines Army Basic Training and Infantry AIT (Advanced Individual Training) in one 14-week course, giving you the fundamental skills to transition from a civilian into a soldier, and a specialized soldier at that. If you want to end up in Delta force, you should go into OSUT expecting to develop your proficiency in a variety of field tasks, including: Weapon and vehicle operation and maintenance Land reconnaissance Map reading and navigation Minefield safety Communications equipment operation Preparing fighting positions Constructing barriers Attend Airborne Training at Fort Benning. Special Forces troopers who eventually want to join Delta Force must qualify for and complete airborne training, in addition to AIT and other specialized training. This is a voluntary training that some soldiers elect to take to "earn their wings," becoming paratroopers. It's four weeks of jump training, starting on the ground and eventually moving to completing a series of jumps at an altitude of 1,200 feet (365.8 m). Attend a Special Operations Preparation Course (SOPC). These four-week courses typically lead up to the Special Forces Assessment and Selection (SFAS) program, which you must pass to be admitted to Special Forces training and continue your rising in the ranks. The SFAS program assesses and selects Soldiers for attendance at the Special Forces Qualification Course (SFQC). This program allows Special Forces an opportunity to assess each Soldier's capabilities by testing his physical, emotional, and mental stamina. Once you pass the SFAS, you'll move on to the SFQC. The SFQC teaches and develops the skills necessary for Special Forces. The enlisted applicant's SFQC training will be scheduled upon successful completion of SFAS. Pass the individual skills phase of training. During this period, soldiers are trained on specialized skills necessary to Special Forces work. Training is 40 days long and covers land navigation, cross-country map exercise, and small unit tactics. The specifics subjects and methods of the training process aren't public, and will be made more clear to soldiers who are admitted. Complete your Military Operational Specialty (MOS) training phase. Training for this phase is 65 days and culminates with a mission planning cycle, during which you'll put your leadership skills to the test, as well as hone your particular specialities and skills that you've been developing over the course of your training. Different soldiers, depending on their experience, training, and specialities, will have different responsibilities during MOS. Complete the Collective Training Phase. During this 38-day period, Soldiers are trained in Special Operations (SO) classes, Direct Action (DA) Isolation, Air Operations, Unconventional Warfare classes, and receive Isolation training. This is one of the most mentally tough and physically strenuous training sequences in all of the United States military. You'll be put to the test and expected to perform at a high level. Many soldiers scrub out. Receive language training. Language training is required for all incoming Delta soldiers and expected of advanced-level Special Forces soldiers from all backgrounds. Typically, languages are assigned in relation to the score from the Defense Language Aptitude Battery (DLAB), which you'll take during your training. Make it clear what you want. The military respects ambition and rewards skill and dedication. If you want to join Delta Force, make it clear to your commanding officers and other ranking officials. This is the best way to be recruited to train and possibly qualify for part of this elite unit. If you leave your desire a secret, it's unlikely you'll be tasked with joining up. Be honest about what you want. Get to know your COs and other ranking officers very well. It's no understatement to say, like anything else, there's a political element to getting promoted and getting what you want in the military. Make friends in high places and you'll have someone's ear, and also have a good line into what other COs and ranking officers expect from the soldiers. Keep an ear out for tips and tricks. Talk to the right people. Be trainable. Your job during the selection phase is to show your potential and train-ability under stress. Focus on giving every task that you are faced with 110 percent effort and never ever quit. You are not expected to be a super-soldier right off the starting line, but you are expected to be considerably above average and to remain committed to improving your skills and being a teachable soldier. Remember, once you're admitted, you'll be trained extensively, and put to the test mentally and physically. You just have to get there. If anyone asks if you're ready, your only answer should be "Yes, sir." Get in your peak physical condition. Delta Force soldiers need to be beyond fit. Even if you haven't enlisted as an infantry soldier yet, it's a good idea to start getting into your peak physical condition, focusing specifically on building endurance and cardiovascular strength. Practice walking for very long distances (30mi or more) with a weighted (60lbs) rucksack. Try for 15 minute miles, though you will be expected to travel at a much faster pace during Selection. Practice your land navigation skills in private. Land navigation skills are key to successfully completing the Delta Force selection course. Know how to use a compass and map intimately, practicing your skills as often as possible. If you've already got that down, it's one less thing you'll have to focus on learning during training, so you can focus on improving other aspects of your candidacy. Reapply if you're not accepted the first time. The majority of applicants to Delta Force will be rejected and most accepted applicants have previously applied. Of all the people in the army, only a fraction of them become Airborne Rangers and Green Berets. Of all the Airborne Rangers and Green Berets, only a fraction of them are selected for Delta Force.

Enlist in the Army. Attend Infantry One Station Unit Training (OSUT). Attend Airborne Training at Fort Benning. Attend a Special Operations Preparation Course (SOPC). Pass the individual skills phase of training. Complete your Military Operational Specialty (MOS) training phase. Complete the Collective Training Phase. Receive language training. Make it clear what you want. Be trainable. Get in your peak physical condition. Practice your land navigation skills in private. Reapply if you're not accepted the first time.

https://www.wikihow.com/Do-a-Basic-Ponytail

How to Do a Basic Ponytail

To put your hair into a basic ponytail, start by wrapping a hair tie around your wrist and combing your hair. Once your hair is brushed, gather it into your dominant hand and lift it up to where you want your ponytail to sit. From here, use your free hand to pull your hair tie off of your wrist and onto the ponytail. Keep twisting the hair tie and pulling your ponytail through it until it feels tight enough to hold. If you need to tighten your ponytail throughout the day, simply split it into 2 sections and pull them in opposite directions. You may also want to mist your ponytail with hairspray to set the style in place.

Comb your hair and wrap a hair tie around your wrist. Keep the hair tie on your dominant hand so that it is ready to use. It's best to use a color that matches your hair, but you can use a bright one too. Gather your hair into your dominant hand. Make an L-shape with you dominant hand. Hook it around your hair at the back of your head, with your thumb at the bottom. Use your other hand to gather your hand into your dominant hand. Keep your hand at the base of your head. If you are doing the ponytail on someone else, keep your fingers under the ponytail and your thumb on top. Lift your hair up to the height you want it. If you want a low ponytail, keep your hand near the base of your neck where your hairline begins. If you want a mid-height ponytail, lift your hand up until it is level with your ears. For a high ponytail, lift your hand up past your ears. Use your free hand to catch any hair that comes loose and gather it back into your dominant hand. Smooth your hair back. Use a brush or your hands to comb your hair until it lays smooth. Work your way along the top, bottom, and sides of your head. Always brush the hair from the hairline and back towards your hand. You will have to pass the ponytail from 1 hand to the other. If you are doing a mid-height or high ponytail, remember to brush the hair at the nape of your neck upwards. If your hair is still bumpy after smoothing it while it is dry, then mist it with some water and try again. Wetting it slightly may help to relax any bumpy spots in your hair. Wrap a hair tie around the ponytail. Hold the ponytail with your dominant hand. Use your free hand to pull the hair tie off your wrist and onto the ponytail. Pull the ponytail through the hair tie. Twist the hair tie, and pull the ponytail through it once more. If you have thin hair, you may have to twist the hair tie a third time, and pull the ponytail through it again. For an extra secure hold , you can slide 2 bobby pins onto the hair band after securing your ponytail. Slide 1 bobby pin onto the hair band from the top of the ponytail, so that the ends of the bobby pin are going into and through the ponytail. Then, do the same thing with the other bobby pin, but going from the bottom of the ponytail. Avoid wearing a tight ponytail every day since it could damage your hair follicles. Touch up the ponytail, then mist it with hairspray, if desired. If you want a nice, full ponytail, split it into 2 sections. Pull the 2 sections apart to tighten the hair tie, then let go of them. Use hairspray to lightly mist your ponytail to set the style. For a sleeker look, use the back of your brush to smooth your hair down before the hairspray sets. For a messier look, muss up the hair at your temples before you add the hairspray. Hide the hair tie with a thin strand of hair. Create a ponytail of your choice. Take a thin strand of hair from underneath your ponytail. Wrap it around the hair tie to hide it from view. Secure the strand of hair with a bobby pin that matches your hair color. Try to finish wrapping the strand underneath your ponytail. For something fancier, braid the thin strand first. Try putting the top section of your ponytail in 1 elastic and then securing the bottom section to it with a second elastic. This can make your ponytail stronger and tighter. Add volume with backcombing. If you finished your ponytail, and think it could use a little more volume, don't despair—you don't have to start all over. Simply lift up a section of your ponytail and backcomb it, starting from the middle and pressing down lightly towards the base. Keep lifting sections of your ponytail and backcombing it until you reach the underside. Only backcomb the underside of each section, never the top. Use just the tips of your brush's bristles to smooth out the top of the ponytail when you are finished. Mist the ponytail with hairspray when you are done to set the style. Add volume to a ponytail with a small claw clip. Another great way to add volume to an existing ponytail is with a claw clip. Start with a high or mid-height ponytail. Pull the top half of the ponytail up and away. Take a small claw clip, about 1-inch (2.54-centimeters) wide, and clip it over the lower ponytail, close to the hair tie. Drop the upper part of the ponytail, and smooth it down to hide the claw clip. You may want to use a claw clip that matches your hair color to help it blend in, such as a brown clip if your hair is brown. Make a topsy-turvy ponytail. Start by making a low ponytail. Create a hole in your hair by dividing your hair in the center right above the hair tie. Push your finger up through the hole. Hook it around your ponytail, then use it to pull the ponytail down through the hole. Split the ponytail in two, and tug the two sections apart to tighten the hair tie. Smooth down the ponytail when you are done. A bow or other hair accessory works great for this style. Place it around the hair tie to hide it. Spice up your ponytail with accessories. A simple accessory, such as a hair comb or a hair clip can take your ponytail to the next level. Try tying a bow around the base of the ponytail, or slipping a hair comb behind the hair tie. If you have long bangs or short wisps of hair, pin them out of the way with a pretty hair clip. Add a side part to a low ponytail. Begin by using a rattail comb to create a deep side part. Start the part above your right or left eyebrow, then angle it towards the back-center of your head. Brush your hair away from the side part going downwards and along the sides of your head, then pull it back into a low ponytail. You can also create a center part instead. Play around with different positions. If you want a more vintage look, suitable for anything 80s, try making a high ponytail on the side of your head. If you have curly or wavy hair, you can make a low ponytail to one side of your head. Try a half-up, hair-down ponytail. Make a L-shape with both of your hands. Position them at your temples, by your eyebrows. Tuck your thumbs under your hair, then pull your hair back into a mid-high ponytail. Use your hands to smooth down the hair on the top and sides of the ponytail, then tie it off. Make a double ponytail. Start with a half-up, half-down ponytail. Tie it off with a clear elastic, or use one that matches your hair color. Next, gather all of your hair into a low ponytail and tie it off with another elastic. Use a hair tie that matches your hair color. Add an accent braid to a mid-height ponytail. Take some hair from your part, and braid it into a thin braid, no wider than your finger. Next, gather all of your hair, including the braid, into a mid-height ponytail, and secure it with a hair tie. Wrap a thin strand of hair, around the base of your ponytail to high the hair tie. Secure it with a bobby pin. If your hair is straight of smooth, secure the end of the thin braid with an elastic. Remove the elastic at the end. You can also wrap the thin braid around the base of the ponytail instead. Remove the elastic (if you used it) before pinning the braid.

Comb your hair and wrap a hair tie around your wrist. Gather your hair into your dominant hand. Lift your hair up to the height you want it. Smooth your hair back. Wrap a hair tie around the ponytail. Touch up the ponytail, then mist it with hairspray, if desired. Hide the hair tie with a thin strand of hair. Add volume with backcombing. Add volume to a ponytail with a small claw clip. Make a topsy-turvy ponytail. Spice up your ponytail with accessories. Add a side part to a low ponytail. Play around with different positions. Try a half-up, hair-down ponytail. Make a double ponytail. Add an accent braid to a mid-height ponytail.

https://www.wikihow.com/Calm-a-Cat

How to Calm a Cat

To calm a cat that's agitated, use a quiet voice, lure it to you with food, and try gently petting it from the bridge of the nose up. You can also move your cat to a quiet space by wrapping it tightly in a towel with only its head poking out so it doesn't scratch or bite you. For cats that are frequently nervous, look at long-term solutions such as collars or sprays that have calming pheromones. Finally, there are medications that your vet can prescribe for short and long-term anxiety, such as sedatives for car trips or antidepressants for anxiety.

Think of your and your cat's safety first. Only approach the cat if it is necessary to do so, such as a trip to the vet. The majority of agitated cats benefit from being left in peace, rather than being petted or picked up. If you do have to approach the cat, the very first thing you need to do when your cat is upset is to protect yourself and then the cat. Scared or aroused cats can and will bite their owners and they will scratch. This displaced aggression means your cat is so upset that it will bite or scratch anyone handy if it cannot get at the object or thing making it upset. It is imperative that you approach your upset cat with extreme caution. Approach the cat cautiously, preferably wearing long sleeves and pants. Have a towel handy in case you need to catch your cat. Use a calm voice and calm behavior. Talk to your cat calmly. For example, say "It's okay, Peaches, it's okay. Shh. Shh." Sit quietly and wait for your cat to calm down, and let it realize you mean it no harm and don't pose a threat. Speak quietly and in a lower pitched voice. Singing can soothe or relax your cat, much like talking quietly. Singing anything from an upbeat song to a slow melody can work. Just don't sing loudly, harshly, or anything with rapidly changing pitches. Play something softly on the TV. Lure the cat towards you. Feed your cat some food if it is still skittish. Wet food is usually more appealing to cats than dry food and fish has an even greater odor than meat. Let the cat climb to a higher place to allow it to feel safe and able to see what is going on. If possible, stroke the cat's face by running your thumb lightly up from the bridge of the cat's nose. Move the cat into isolation if it is still upset. Placing the cat in a confined space where it can be alone should help it to calm itself down. Close all doors to the area your cat is in, close shades, blinds, or drapes on windows so it cannot see outside. Remove children and other pets from the area as well. The aim is to provide a calm, non-threatening environment so that cat's anxiety levels fall. To move the cat to a room it can be alone in, wrap the cat in a towel snuggly with only its head sticking out, much like a burrito. Then you can place it in a quiet room, like a bedroom, along with access to a litter box, until it is calm once more. Figure out what is making your cat agitated. After the emergency is over, you need to reassess the situation. What in particular set your cat off? If it was a one-time occurrence, such as workers in the house, you can anticipate for next time and put your cat in a quiet room until they leave. If it was a stray cat outside, you can use techniques to rid yourself of stray cats, such as water sprinklers or chemical sprays that deter cats from your yard. If it is a problem that is likely to recur (such as trips in the car, company, thunderstorms) you can take some steps to help your cat better cope with the situation. Use pheromones to calm your cat. Pheromones are chemicals released from glands on the cat's body—face, feet, back and tail—that cats release to communicate with other cats. Certain pheromones, such as those released from the cats face when they rub on objects or their humans, have a calming effect on stressed cats. Scientists have managed to synthesize these chemicals which come in various forms such as collars, sprays, wipes, and plug-in diffusers. Use other non-medication calming aids. There are a few other non-medicated options available to calm an anxious or stressed cat. Essential oils or herbal blends can mimic pheromones and can be tried in place of the synthetic pheromones. Food supplements have also proved helpful to relieve anxiety and stress in cats. The ingredients in these supplements help to support the cat's natural chemical balance to aid in relaxation. They come in liquid, chew and tablet forms. Body wraps (thunder shirts or anxiety wraps) are another non-medication calming aids. These cloth and Velcro wraps wrap around the cat's body and exert gentle pressure on pressure points which aid in calming cats. The principle is similar to swaddling an infant or wrapping the cat into a towel. Not every cat will respond positively to having to wear a wrap or to the pheromones or blends. You may have a period of trial and error to see what response your kitty has to these products. Consider using short-term medication. Some cats have a certain chemical makeup that necessitates the use of medications to help them cope with anxiety or stress producing situations. There are short-term options to use for the occasional trip in the car or visits from certain people your cat has taken a disliking too. Various medications are available to sedate a cat for a short term, temporary situation. These medications require an examination and a prescription from a veterinarian make certain the cat is healthy enough to take them. Not all cats react the same to the same medication, so most veterinarians will suggest an initial trial with a medication while at home to gauge your cat's reaction to the sedative. Keep in mind, some sedatives need to be given an hour or so prior to travel or anticipated stressful event so the cat doesn't override the medication effects due to a buildup of anticipation anxiety. Discuss with your vet the possible sedatives that could help your cat. There are a broad range of sedatives used in cats. They all have side effects and precautions for use especially in cats with health conditions like kidney failure, heart disease, and diabetes. Only your veterinarian can advise you on the right one for your cat. Sedatives used in cats include: Benzodiazepines. Examples are alprazolam, midazolam, and lorazepam. These are the most widely used sedatives in cats. They work almost immediately to reduce fear and anxiety in cats working on the same part of the brain as alcohol does in humans. Note: NEVER give alcohol to a cat. SARI's. Trazodone is an example of this type of sedative. It works quickly to relieve anxiety. Clonidine and gabapentin. These have sedative and antianxiety effects in animals including cats. Chlorpheniramine and Benadryl are allergy and cold medications which have been used for cat sedation. Phenobarbital is another sedative used in cats. Explore options for long-term medication. There are long-term solutions for those few cats that are suffering from constant anxiety. In cats with severe, crippling anxiety long-term medication (given daily for months to years) is the best solution to make life more pleasant for them and their humans. Luckily, there are now fairly safe medications which can temper down the chemical imbalances which make life miserable. These medications include: Amitriptyline (an antidepressant that helps animals with anxiety), Buspirone Hydrochloride (helpful with phobias, such as a fear of people in uniform or a fear of thunderstorms), Clomipramine (Clomicalm), and Fluoxetine (Reconcile, Prozac). In order for these drugs to work effectively, they need to “build up” in the cat's body, so it may take up to 6 weeks to find out if they work on the cat. Also, they should not be stopped abruptly or adverse effects might occur. The best remedy is to slowly taper down the medication to give the body a chance to adjust to the medication decrease.

Think of your and your cat's safety first. Use a calm voice and calm behavior. Lure the cat towards you. Move the cat into isolation if it is still upset. Figure out what is making your cat agitated. Use pheromones to calm your cat. Use other non-medication calming aids. Consider using short-term medication. Discuss with your vet the possible sedatives that could help your cat. Explore options for long-term medication.

https://www.wikihow.com/Seal-a-Driveway

How to Seal a Driveway

To seal a driveway, clean the surface using driveway cleaner formulated for asphalt and a power washer or garden hose applicator. If there are any oil stains, apply a small amount of oil spot primer to the area so the sealant will stick. Next, fill any cracks with rubberized tube filler or patch filler and let it dry. Then, pour enough sealant onto a corner to cover 4 by 4 feet and use a push broom to spread the sealant evenly, working in horizontal lines and moving downward to the bottom of the driveway.

Remove overgrown weeds or grass from the edges of your driveway. This will make it easier to spread the sealant and will also make the finished product look even better. Use a shovel to dig in a circle around the roots of larger weeds. After cutting through as many roots as possible, insert the shovel underneath them. Now, lever the weeds from the soil. Use a power edge trimmer to remove small patches of grass along the perimeter of your driveway. Always hold the trimmer level and rigid, taking care to move your body instead of your arms. Scrub your driveway with driveway cleaner and water. Purchase driveway cleaner indicated for asphalt application from a home hardware or automotive store. If you have a power washer, use its soap nozzle to apply the driveway cleaner. Otherwise, use a garden hose applicator. Be sure to cover the entire surface of the driveway. Now, scrub the surface of the driveway using a push broom. Afterward, clear out the dirt and soap residue using a steady stream of water from your power washer nozzle or garden hose. If you're using your power washer to clear the dirt and soap, use the 40-degree nozzle setting. Apply oil spot primer to stained areas of your driveway. Oil spot primer helps driveway sealer bind better to oil-stained regions. Dip a disposable chip brush into the primer and apply a layer over the driveway pores under the stain. For heavier stains, apply two coats of primer. Be sure to let the primer dry completely before applying driveway sealant. Make sure your driveway is dry before applying oil spot primer. Purchase oil spot primer from a home hardware or automotive store. Measure your driveway to determine how much sealant to purchase. Use a measuring tape to determine the length and width of your driveway. Multiply the two values together to get your total square footage. Sealant usually comes in 5 gallon (19 L) containers, which can cover as much as 400 square feet (37 m ). Consider a driveway that is 10 by 30 feet (3.0 by 9.1 m): this means the total area is 300 square feet (28 m ), which requires one 5 gallon (19 L) bucket of sealant. Wait until a dry, warm day over 50 °F (10 °C) before applying sealant. Before applying your driveway sealant, check the weather forecast for the next 24 hours. Make sure the temperature is above 50 °F (10 °C) and forecast to stay within this range over the course of the night. This will ensure that the sealant dries properly and adheres to the driveway. Avoid extremely sunny days or the sealant might dry too fast. Always check the weather forecast for rain. Purchase premium asphalt sealant for the best results. Always select premium products for longer durability. Check the label for sealants with UV stabilizers, high-quality resins, and elastomeric material. Afterward, check the label for the formula: some are for newer driveways and others are for older driveways. Always use the sealant made for your driveway type. Avoid products that come with the shortest guarantees of effectiveness. Fill cracks with rubberized tube filler or patch filler. For cracks less than ⁄ 2 inch (1.3 cm), squeeze rubberized tube filler into them until it's level with the rest of the driveway. When using patch filler for deeper cracks, use a trowel to spread the filler and always make sure it's level with the surface. Allow the crack or patch filler to dry for 1 day. Purchase tube or patch filler from a home hardware or automotive store. Clear your driveway with a push broom. Use a push broom to remove any dirt or debris after the crack filler has dried. Be sure to broom the entire surface of the driveway, as sealant requires a clean surface to work properly. Dip your broom into a solution of 1 cup (240 mL) or baking soda and 1 gallon (3.8 L) of water for additional cleaning. Create a hole in the asphalt sealant lid and insert a mixing paddle. Rent or buy a mixing paddle and power mixer from local home hardware stores. Remove the lid of the asphalt sealant and create a cut in the center. Place the mixing paddle that attaches to your power mixer into the asphalt sealant and then place the lid over the rod and attach it to the container. This will prevent splashes of asphalt from leaving the container during mixing. Be sure to cut a hole large enough for your mixing paddle's body to fit through with a bit of extra space. Mix the asphalt sealant according to manufacturer's directions. Be sure to carefully read the manufacturer's directions for mixing times. Start by attaching the mixer to the paddle and then turn it on. From here, lower it to the bottom slowly. Now, move the paddle up and down as it spins so that it combines the solids and water in the asphalt into a consistent mixture. Continue stirring until the asphalt is smooth. Pour enough sealant onto a driveway corner to cover 4 by 4 feet (1.2 m × 1.2 m). Always start with a small portion of asphalt sealant at the right or left edge of the driveway in the pattern of a "U." Start pouring the sealant onto the highest point of the driveway. Gravity will make the job of applying the sealant easier. Apply the sealant in thin coats over 4 by 4 foot (1.2 m × 1.2 m) areas. Use a clean push broom to spread the sealant evenly, working in horizontal lines and moving downward to the bottom of the driveway. Work across your driveway in small sections to give you enough time to apply an even coat and make sure that it's even and consistently applied over the entire surface. Continue to mix the sealant during the spreading process so it doesn't separate. Make sure you always start with a puddle of sealant each time you pour more. Wait 48 hours for the sealant to dry before driving on it. Wait 24 hours and then apply a second coat of sealant if necessary. If you notice any cracked regions, repeat the sealant application process the next day. Work from the top horizontally down to the bottom, taking care to cover 4 by 4 foot (1.2 m × 1.2 m) areas at a time. Let the second sealant coat dry for 48 hours before driving on it. Do not use the driveway even if the sealant feels dry to the touch. The sealant doesn't work until it has completely hardened.

Remove overgrown weeds or grass from the edges of your driveway. Scrub your driveway with driveway cleaner and water. Apply oil spot primer to stained areas of your driveway. Measure your driveway to determine how much sealant to purchase. Wait until a dry, warm day over 50 °F (10 °C) before applying sealant. Purchase premium asphalt sealant for the best results. Fill cracks with rubberized tube filler or patch filler. Clear your driveway with a push broom. Create a hole in the asphalt sealant lid and insert a mixing paddle. Mix the asphalt sealant according to manufacturer's directions. Pour enough sealant onto a driveway corner to cover 4 by 4 feet (1.2 m × 1.2 m). Apply the sealant in thin coats over 4 by 4 foot (1.2 m × 1.2 m) areas. Wait 24 hours and then apply a second coat of sealant if necessary.

https://www.wikihow.com/Treat-Frostbite-in-Dogs

How to Treat Frostbite in Dogs

The first thing you should do if your dog has frostbite is get it inside immediately and wrap it in warm blankets or towels. It can be scary to see your dog with frostbite, but you can help lessen the damage by placing warm water compresses on its frostbitten skin. In addition to water compresses, you can soak the area in warm water. Just be sure to check the water isn't too hot by dripping some on your hand before putting it on your dog or you could cause more damage. After your dog has warmed up, gently pat its fur and skin dry with a towel before the water on those areas gets cold. Once the immediate danger is gone, take your dog to the vet as soon as possible so they can treat the damage to its skin.

Move your dog inside. The first thing you should do for your dog is to get them out of the cold weather. You should move them into a warm environment, like your house. Make sure to be gentle with your dog, especially around the frostbitten skin. Treat any hypothermia first. If your dog has hypothermia or low core temperature, this needs to be treated before the frostbite. Wrap your dog in warm blankets or towels. You can also place water bottles filled with hot water around the body. Make sure to wrap the bottles in cloth to keep it from burning the dog's skin, and make sure the blankets or towels you wrap around the dog are dry. Symptoms of hypothermia include violent shivering followed by listlessness and a rectal temperature that is below 95°F (35°C). Other signs include a weak pulse, lethargy, and coma. Cover the area with warm water. Gently warm the frostbitten skin with warm water compresses. You can also soak the affected area in warm water. Never place hot water onto frostbitten skin. This can cause additional damage. The best water temperature is between 104°F to 108°F (40 to 42°C). Pat the skin dry. After your dog has warmed up, dry the skin and fur. Wet skin and fur can cause your dog to be chilled. Take a towel and gently pat the area dry. Avoid hurting the tissue further. Though you definitely want to get the dog warm again, you want to make sure not to hurt them further. Don't rub or massage the frostbitten skin. This may cause additional damage. You should also not use any direct heat from heating pads, heaters, or hair dryers. If for some reason you have to remain outdoors, don't try to warm up the frostbitten skin unless you can keep it warm. More cold against the skin or refreezing will make the tissue damage worse. Take your dog to the vet as soon as possible. If your dog has frostbite, you should get them treated by a vet immediately. The veterinarian will examine your dog, evaluate the degree of damage, and take measures for treating the frostbite, as well as any other condition such as systemic shock or hypothermia. Wrap your dog in warm towels on your way to the vet. Don't turn the heat up too high as you drive. Instead, keep the car at a mild, warm temperature. Get pain medication. The vet may decide that the thawing skin will cause your dog too much pain. They may give your dog a prescription pain medication to help relieve their symptoms. Don't give your dog any over-the-counter pain medications. Many of these medications can be toxic to dogs. This may also mean that the vet is not able to prescribe anything stronger to your dog for pain. Have your dog undergo extra measures to warm up. If your dog is still not warmed up enough, the vet will do additional procedures to raise their temperature and unthaw the skin. They may be given warm IV fluids or a warm water enema to help raise their internal temperature. Treat secondary infections with antibiotics. If your dog has severe frostbite that resulted in dead tissue, the vet may prescribe antibiotics. These medications will help prevent a secondary bacterial infection. If your dog already has an infection around the tissue, they will be given antibiotics. Remove dead tissue surgically. If your pet has dead tissue or dead body parts, they will need to be removed. The vet may amputate affected body parts or surgically remove the necrotic tissues. This is rare and only for severe cases. While your dog is anesthetized, the vet will debride the dead tissue to reach the healthy tissue. Several surgeries may be required to accomplish this since it may take time to see the full extent of the damage. Check for pale, gray skin. Dogs that have frostbite will has discolored skin. This discoloration makes the skin appear pale, gray, or bluish instead of their skin normal color. This can be very hard to see, so you may need to look under their fur at different patches of skin. Monitor the most common areas affected. Frostbite is not easy to see on your pet. You may not notice they have frostbite unless you really check out their body. If you want to monitor your dog for frostbite, keep an eye on the extremities of the body. This includes the ears, lips, tail, face, feet, and scrotum. Feel for cold skin. Another way you can tell if your beloved pet has frostbite is by touching it. Dog's skin should be warm. Skin that is frostbitten will feel brittle or cold when touched, and the dog may also lack sensation in the affected areas. Search for red skin. When the frostbitten skin starts to warm up, it can become red and swollen. This area may be painful for your dog. The skin may develop skin blisters or ulcers if it's second degree frostbite. Notice peeling skin. If the skin that was frostbitten died, the dead tissue may start peeling off over a few weeks. This may be accompanied by cracking and extremely dry patches of skin. Look for darkened or dead skin. If your dog gets really bad frostbite, the skin will start turning dark. It may turn black after a few days. This is evidence of third degree frostbite. There may be a clear line between damaged and healthy tissue on the skin. These areas may have pus from a bacterial infection and the affected area may have a foul smell. Monitor your dog for days after being in extreme cold. The signs of frostbite may not appear immediately. Your pet may be suffering from frostbite for a few days before they even begin to show symptoms. After being outside with your dog in extreme cold conditions, or if they came into contact with ice or snow, watch them carefully for any symptoms of frostbite. Determine if your dog is at risk. Some dogs are more susceptible to frostbite than others. Knowing whether or not your dog is at a high risk can help you take extra precautions to protect them from frostbite. Small, short-haired dogs have a higher risk than other dogs. Dogs that are wet in cold weather can easily get frostbite. Dogs that are sensitive to cold weather due to age or an illness may be more likely to get frostbite. Dogs who spend long periods of time outside without adequate warm, dry shelter can easily develop frostbite.

Move your dog inside. Treat any hypothermia first. Cover the area with warm water. Pat the skin dry. Avoid hurting the tissue further. Take your dog to the vet as soon as possible. Get pain medication. Have your dog undergo extra measures to warm up. Treat secondary infections with antibiotics. Remove dead tissue surgically. Check for pale, gray skin. Monitor the most common areas affected. Feel for cold skin. Search for red skin. Notice peeling skin. Look for darkened or dead skin. Monitor your dog for days after being in extreme cold. Determine if your dog is at risk.

https://www.wikihow.com/Become-an-Optician

How to Become an Optician

To become an optician, you'll need to have good hand-eye coordination for tasks, like taking measurements and repairing eyeglasses. You should also have great communication skills so you can answer questions and explain things to your customers. Additionally, get the right education by focusing on math and science classes, and obtain a certification or associate's degree in optometry. Once you complete your education, take the exam required by your state to earn your license. After earning your license, you'll be able to start looking for your first job as an optician!

Decide if you have the necessary skills/abilities. As you work towards a career as an optician, it's important to assess whether you're capable of working in this field. Though it's not as physically demanding as many other careers, there are some basic skills and abilities you'll need to possess in order to work well as an optician. Communication skills - you will need to be able to listen patiently to a customer's questions, speak calmly/politely to customers, and explain things in a way that is easy to understand. Customer service skills - since you will most likely be working in a retail setting, you will need to be knowledgable about your products and answer any questions your patients have. It will be helpful to be friendly, courteous, patient, and outgoing with customers. Management skills - you may be required to contribute to the business aspects of operating an optical store. As such, you should have a working knowledge of your store's sales and inventory records, and know where to find relevant sales/inventory information as needed. Manual dexterity - because of the nature of an optician's work, you'll need to have sufficient hand-eye coordination to take measurements and operate the tools used to adjust and repair eyeglasses. Take relevant courses in high school. Depending on where you live, you may be eligible to work as an optician or take the optician licensing exams with a high school diploma or GED. Other states require a postsecondary education. Whether or not you plan on attending college, it's a good idea to start taking relevant courses while you're still in high school to prepare for a career as an optician. Taking courses in physics, basic anatomy, algebra, and trigonometry can help prepare you for a career as an optician. Any additional math courses you take may help prepare you for the measurements and adjustments you'll need to make as an optician. Graduate high school. You will need a high school diploma or GED at the very least. Some states require further education, and some employers may require a postsecondary degree or advanced certificate as well. You may be required to furnish an official transcript from your high school or GED program to your state's governing body. The transcript must include the date you received your degree, and you may be required to have it sent directly from your school or GED program (not delivered by you). Look into postsecondary education programs. Some states require you to successfully complete a postsecondary education program. Even if you are not required to do so, it may help make you a more marketable employee once you enter the job market. If you decide to pursue a postsecondary education program, you will have to choose between a two-year associate's degree or a one-year certificate. Your state may have requirements, or you may be able to choose the program you like best. Check your state's optician requirements by searching online for "optician education" and your state. Make sure you choose an accredited program. As of early 2016, the Commission on Opticianry Accreditation (COA) recognizes 22 accredited programs in 14 different states. You can search a directory of accredited programs by visiting the COA website at http://coaccreditation.com/accredited-programs/. Consider an apprenticeship. Because so few postsecondary optician degree programs exist, many states allow an apprenticeship instead of a degree requirement. Apprenticeships often combine hands-on training with a predetermined amount of formal education. The availability and scope of an apprenticeship will vary considerably, depending on where you live. You can find out your state's specific requirements by searching online, or by visiting http://www.opticiantraining.org/optician-apprenticeship/ and selecting your state from the drop-down menu to the right of the page. An apprenticeship program will generally require the following from all applicants : a completed application and applicant statement of purpose a diploma, transcript, or equivalency certificate that verifies your completion of high school your professional history your health history a criminal background check letters of reference Check your state requirements. Depending on where you live, you may be required to take the American Board of Opticianry and the National Contact Lens Examiners (ABO-NCLE) licensing exams. In addition to being licensed, some states require you to pass a written exam, a practical exam, a certification exam, or some combination of these examinations. There may be additional requirements and restrictions in place, depending on where you live. Check online to see what licensing or state examinations your state requires in order to become an optician. As of early 2016, there are 23 states that require you to be licensed in order to work as an optician. You must be at least 18 years of age in order to be eligible for the licensing exams. Each state's educational requirements may vary. Some states allow you to take the licensing exams and/or work as an optician with a high school diploma or GED, while others require some level of postsecondary education. Some states require you to be "of good moral character," which may entail a background check for criminal history. Some states require you to disclose any physical or mental health issues, substance abuse/dependency history, or previous loss of license/certification. Prepare for the licensing exams. Before taking the licensing exams, you should review your study materials from your college coursework or certification program (if applicable). The ABO-NCLE also provides some study materials on their website, which may be helpful as you prepare for the exams. When you arrive at the ABO-NCLE website, hover your mouse over the "Exam Information" tab, scroll through the drop-down menu, and select "Practice Area." Register for the licensing exams. There are two national competency exams administered by the American Board of Opticianry and the National Contact Lens Examiners (ABO-NCLE) in order to become licensed. The ABO administers the National Opticianry Competency Exam (NOCE), which is required if you plan to measure, adjust, and dispense eyeglasses. The NCLE administers the Contact Lens Registry Exam (CLRE), which you'll need to pass if you want to measure for and dispense contact lenses. The exams are offered twice each year, in May and in November. You must register on the ABO-NCLE website. Registration will cost $225 for each exam. If you miss the registration deadline you can still register for an additional $75 late fee per exam, as long as you complete your registration by the late deadline date. You will need to give at least 24 business hours' notice if you need to change the exam time or location before your scheduled exam. There are no refunds, but you can have your exam transferred to the next testing date for a $50 transfer fee. There are more than 300 PSI testing centers across the United States. Check online to see which testing center is closest to you by visiting https://candidate.psiexams.com/. Take the licensing exams. You'll need to take both exams if you wish to be licensed for both eyeglasses and contact lenses, but if you only plan to work with one or the other you'll need to take that exam. You will have two hours to complete each exam, which will be taken entirely on a computer at the testing site. When you arrive, you will need to verify your identity with a valid government-issued photo ID. Photo IDs that are not issued by the government, such as work badges or school IDs, will not be accepted. You are prohibited from communicating with anyone else during the exam, and you must leave all personal items at home, in your vehicle, or outside the testing site. There are 125 multiple-choice questions per exam. The NOCE will test your knowledge of ophthalmic optics, ocular anatomy/physiology, ophthalmic products, instrumentation, and dispensing procedures. The CLRE will test your knowledge of ocular anatomy and physiology, refractive errors, instruments used for measurement and observation, pre-fitting contact lenses, diagnostic lens fitting, dispensing procedures, follow-up assessments, and regulatory requirements. Wait for your test results. You will not get your results immediately. They will be sent to you by email some time after you've completed the exam. Your score will not be numeric. Instead, you will receive a pass or fail notification in the ABO-NCLE email. Test results are usually emailed within four to six weeks from the end of the testing window. In addition to the official email containing your results, you will receive an official certificate that is suitable for framing through the mail. It will be sent to the address you gave upon registration, and it will display the name you gave when you registered. Write a strong resume. Your resume makes a first impression before you ever set foot in an employer's office. It's important to keep your resume looking professional. You should also keep it relatively short, but be sure to include all the necessary relevant information. Choose a professional, straightforward font type, such as Sans-serif, Helvetica, and Garamond. Use a normal font size between 10 point and 14 point. Include your full name and contact information at the top of your resume. List your qualifications near the beginning of your resume. Detail any previous experience working as an optician or doing relevant work. Arrange your work experience in reverse-chronological order, with the most recent job at the top. List your education in reverse-chronological order. Name any professional opticianry licenses you've received. Search for jobs online. Searching for a job can be frustrating. It takes a lot of patience and perseverance, but eventually you will find job listings in your area. Start searching online, as this will give you access to the most listings available. You can search through general career-finder websites like Indeed and Monster, or try a specialized optician jobs board like OpticianJobs.com. You can also find optician job listings through a state-wide professional organization's website. The Professional Opticians of Florida, for example, has a career marketplace on their website for finding optician jobs across the state. Complete a strong interview. Interviews may be the most stressful part of the job hunt. However, once you've gotten an interview, you know you're in a better position than many other applicants. How well you prepare for the interview can make or break your chance at an optician job. Research the company, it's history, and the role you'd be filling at that company. Brush up on recent developments in the industry so that you can speak knowledgeably and with authority on relevant subjects. Check into how opticians dress at the place you're interviewing by visiting them in person or having a friend scout it out. Dress appropriately for the interview. Unless the store flaunts a casual dress code, it's best to stick with business attire (including a tie for men). Leave early so that you arrive at the interview on time (or a little early, if possible). Be friendly, courteous, and professional during the interview. Answer all of the interviewer's questions as best you can, and ask follow-up questions to show that you're taking a genuine interest in the company. Get on-the-job training. Many opticians receive training from an employer upon being hired. This is particularly the case if your state does not require you to have a postsecondary education. By shadowing your employer and your coworkers during on-the-job training, you'll learn how to track prescriptions, operate the necessary equipment, take measurements, and adjust/repair eyewear. Keep the office organized. Because many opticians work in a retail setting, you may be required to do some basic office and storefront maintenance on the job. This may include business-related tasks, sales/cashier work, or both. Business-related tasks you may be responsible for include organizing sales records, tracking/sorting customer prescriptions, and ordering/maintaining optical equipment. Sales/cashier work you may be responsible for include assisting customers as they browse eyeglass frames, helping customers try on frames, and completing transactions at the cash register. Take the necessary measurements. An optician's main task is to take and record precise measurements. This is the main reason why opticians are required to be proficient in mathematics. You may have to measure a customer's face size, size/shape of the eyes, or distance between the pupils. Depending on where you work and the size of your office's workforce, you may be required to measure and cut lenses and insert them into eyeglass frames. Adjust and repair eyeglass frames. Another important aspect of working as an optician is adjusting eyeglass frames to fit the customer and making repairs when a customer's eyeglasses are damaged. You should have a working knowledge of how to use the necessary equipment to make adjustments and repairs from your apprenticeship, your formal education, or your on-the-job training.

Decide if you have the necessary skills/abilities. Take relevant courses in high school. Graduate high school. Look into postsecondary education programs. Consider an apprenticeship. Check your state requirements. Prepare for the licensing exams. Register for the licensing exams. Take the licensing exams. Wait for your test results. Write a strong resume. Search for jobs online. Complete a strong interview. Get on-the-job training. Keep the office organized. Take the necessary measurements. Adjust and repair eyeglass frames.

https://www.wikihow.com/Change-a-Light-Bulb

How to Change a Light Bulb

To change a light bulb, all you need to do is disconnect the power, remove the old bulb, and screw a new bulb into place. First, head to your fuse box and turn off the power for the light you want to change. If you're changing a lamp, unplug it from the wall. This way there won't be any chance of electrocuting yourself. If the bulb was on recently, wait a few minutes to let it cool down. To reach ceiling lights, stand on a sturdy chair or stepladder that won't wobble or tip. If the bulb is a screw fitting, twist the bulb counter clockwise. In some places, like the UK, bayonet fittings are also common. If you have a bayonet fitting, you'll need to push it in slightly and twist it counter clockwise. After you've removed the old bulb, insert the new one and twist it clockwise. For bayonets, you'll need to line it up with the pins, push it in, and twist clockwise.

Make sure the power is turned off. This is a good idea any time you are messing around with electrical fixtures. Why not be safe? Just switch the red power button to “off” in your fuse box. Be aware this will shut off all of your power, not just for one fixture. You should also unplug the lighting fixture before you change the light bulb (if it's a fixture with a plug, that is). If you don't, you could risk getting shocked. Always be careful around electricity. Take other safety measures. There are a few things you should keep in mind, especially if the bulb is high up in the ceiling. Let the bulb cool off before you unscrew it. If the light was on recently, the bulb will be hot to the touch, and you could burn your fingers. If the bulb is in a ceiling fixture, don't try to balance on an unsteady chair or something similar. Use a sturdy stepladder. That way you can reach the light bulb without falling. Instead of a step ladder, you can buy a special extension tool to switch a light bulb that is very high up. This is often safer than trying to climb a ladder. And remember: You could always hire a handyman! You shouldn't need any other tools to change a light bulb in a lamp fixture. Take the bulb out of the socket. If the fixture is easy to reach, such as a lamp, the process is pretty straightforward. Sockets do differ depending on your lighting fixture. If you have a bayonet mount, which is common in the UK and places like New Zealand, hold the bulb gently but firmly, and then push down and turn the bulb counter-clockwise. This should release it from the socket. This type of socket has two prongs. If the socket has a screw fitting, which is common in America and throughout Europe, you should gently twist the bulb counter clockwise. It should then come loose from the socket, and you can remove it. If the bulb detaches from the screw, then you will need to use a pair of pliers to remove the screw. Make sure that the power is off then unscrew the screw. Put a new bulb in the socket. In order to put a new bulb into a lighting fixture's socket, you will want to turn the bulb in a clockwise direction. Just remember: Counter-clockwise to remove; clockwise to insert. The bulb might lock into place or you might have to twist it a bit until you can't twist it anymore. This will depend on the socket. Don't screw the bulb too tight or it could break. If you have a bayonet bulb, you will need to align the bulb's base with the two pins. Push down and then twist upwards, using a clockwise motion. In the case of a screw cap bulb, simply place it into the hole and then twist it. You will usually want to choose a bulb that has the same wattage as the old bulb, unless you want softer or brighter light than what you already had. Check the label on the bulb socket or fixture for the max watt/amp rating. Make sure the bulb's power rating doesn't exceed that allowed by your lighting fixture (check with the manufacturer or packaging). Turn the switch on so you can know when to stop turning. When the light turns on, stop turning. Change a light bulb in a home dome light. You've seen these lights. They're set into the ceiling. To change the light bulb, you usually have to remove the screws that hold the glass or plastic dome over the light bulb. Usually there are about 2-3 screws holding the dome to the frame. Remove them with a screwdriver. Now, lift the dome head carefully off the frame. Some dome lights have notch mechanisms instead. In those cases you will push up on the dome lightly, twist it, and then pull it down. This could release it. If there is a notch, you may need to push up into the notch, and then pull it down. If the dome light is not screwed in, you could twist the dome off with your hands. Try wearing rubber gloves to remove it in order to increase the friction. Some dome fixtures are fastened to the frame with metal clips. Try pulling out one of the clips, and the dome should usually fall off. Some glass dome lights have a single center nut that you need to unscrew to get the dome off. If you have one of those dome lights with a metal rim, you should be able to unscrew the metal trim with your hands. It's possible you will have to break the seal on it first. For example, sometimes people paint too close to the trim, so paint could have dried between the metal rim and the dome cover. Try pushing it slightly upwards and then twisting it counter clockwise after breaking the seal (you could use a flat head screwdriver or knife to do this. Be careful). Change a light bulb in a high ceiling. What if the light bulb is way up on a vaulted ceiling? And is recessed lighting? For example, some people have ceilings that are 16 feet high. Go to a home improvement store or online, and purchase an extended light bulb changing pole. These are long poles that you can use to change light bulbs. These extenders can give you a very long reach. Attach the suction cup to the hole. Attach the string to the side of the suction cup so that you can release the suction cup from the bulb. This process works for recessed lights. The pole works by fastening the suction cup onto the bulb. Extend the pole up to the lighting fixture. Place the suction cup on the bulb. Untwist it, and slowly remove the old bulb. Pull the string to take the bulb off. Put a new bulb on the end of the suction cup, which should still be fastened to the pole. Put it up into the recessed lighting fixture. Twist it in. Pull the string to loosen the suction. Remove a car dome light bulb. It shouldn't take you very long to replace the light bulb that illuminates the inside of your car. You probably can do this yourself. Take off the bulb lens cover. It's possible you will need a screwdriver to do this because some lens covers are held in place with two screws. In other cases, you can just pry it off with a flat head screwdriver. Put the screwdriver opposite the light switch. Press in.The lens cover should pop off. Now unscrew the light bulb from the socket. Screw a new bulb in (ask at an auto store to make sure you get the right bulb). Replace the lens cover by snapping it in place or replacing the screws. Get rid of the bulb safely. Be aware that light bulbs are very fragile. Thus, you don't want to just toss them haphazardly in your garbage can. If the bulb breaks, the shards can cut someone. Wrap the old bulb in the new bulb's package before throwing it away. You could also wrap the old bulb in a newspaper or old magazine. Throw the bulb away in places that children can't reach. Make sure to recycle the bulb if possible or required in your area.

Make sure the power is turned off. Take other safety measures. Take the bulb out of the socket. Put a new bulb in the socket. Change a light bulb in a home dome light. Change a light bulb in a high ceiling. Remove a car dome light bulb. Get rid of the bulb safely.

https://www.wikihow.com/Make-Someone-Feel-Special

How to Make Someone Feel Special

If you're trying to make someone feel special, call, text, or email them frequently so they know you're thinking about them. Additionally, set aside time to hang out, and plan get-togethers they'll enjoy. When you are together, ask questions about what's going on in their life, and show you care by really listening to their answers. Also, try to smile whenever it's appropriate to show how happy you are to be with them. Giving them an unexpected compliment or a small gift, like their favorite drink or a poem you've written, can also make them feel special.

Smile. Greet your special person with a smile, and smile often while you are with her (without faking it). Smiling will not only make you feel happier, but it will make you sound happier and more positive. It will also let her know that you're happy to see her, and that you're interested in what she's saying. Listen. Pay attention to what the person has going on in her life, like her hobbies and what she does at work or in school. Take note of people she frequently mentions; these people are probably important to her in one way or another. Give the person your full attention, don't play on your phone or computer. Giving someone your full attention makes them feel more heard and appreciated. Some common people are siblings, parents, grandparents, and close friends. She may also mention pets, children, or even classmates and colleagues. Try to learn about these people and their relationship with your special friend. Sometimes it is best to just listen, and not offer solutions. For example: your friend tells you that she's frustrated with her basketball coach. Say something like, “That does sound really frustrating, I'm sorry you had to go through that.” Avoid saying things like, “I know exactly how that feels”, because chances are you don't fully understand what she's going through and it might make her feel bad. Instead, practice empathy by showing kindness and paying attention to the needs the other person expresses. Ask about the person's life. This is a good time to reach back to things you've learned about your friend. Ask her about a specific person or event she mentioned last time you talked. Asking questions will show that you care about what she does and what she loves. Pay attention and try to remember the details of her stories. The next time you talk, ask her how these things are going. For example: You remember that she is very close with her brother, and the last time they hung out was over spring break when they went on a family trip to the beach. Ask her how her brother is doing, and if she has seen him lately. Maybe ask her if she's been to the beach lately, or if she has any plans to see her brother again soon. Share a memory. Not only will the memory be a warm, fun thought for you and your friend, but it will also show that you are thinking about her and that you value the time you spend together. It could be a memory from childhood, or one from the previous night. Maybe you stayed up all night talking, or you did something crazy like go skydiving. Reminiscing about your time spent together is a great way to show that your time with her is special. Slightly touch the person often. It doesn't have to be intimate, but touching has been shown to increase happiness and make people feel more connected. Hug her when you first see her and when you say goodbye, or pat her on the shoulder when you pass by. Be careful to not overdo it, the limit and amount of touching depends on your relationship with your special person. There should be very different limits if your special person is a significant other versus a friend or family member. Learn about the person. Listen to everything she says. Make note of things like important people, sentimental things or places, or hobbies. It can even be as simple as learning what her favorite soda or candy is. Some of these things you can pick up on by just listening, and some things you will have to observe. Examples of common things to notice include: Best friend(s). Does she hang out with one person or a group of people all the time? Learn about these people, how your special person met them, and what they do when they hang out. Close family members. Is she close with any siblings, or is she closer to parents or grandparents? If she always mentions doing things with her dad, that's a good sign that her and her dad are very close. Make a note. Favorite soda. Does she prefer Pepsi or Coke? Does she like regular or does she prefer diet? Simpler things like this can still prove to be valuable. Favorite food. Maybe she loves Indian food, or maybe there's one specific dish that's her absolute favorite. Try to notice if she always eats the same thing, or if she frequently suggests the same type of restaurant. Sports and hobbies. Is your friend always at practice or taking lessons? Maybe she plays a sport, but doesn't take it too seriously and just does it for fun. Try to pay attention not only to what her hobbies are, but how involved she is in them. Allow the gift to be a surprise. As much as is possible, try to let the gift be a surprise for the other person. A gift that someone is not expecting or does not know about can make them feel incredibly special. If you are taking them for a nice dinner, for example, you could pretend to be going to a work function until you get there. Give something sentimental. Take what you've learned about her and get something special. It doesn't have to be expensive or crazy, just something you know she likes to let her know you're thinking about her. If she's having a tough day and seems stressed, giving her something simple like her favorite candy will make her feel special and ease her mind. Examples of some good gifts include: A favorite food or drink. This one is super easy but will still make the person feel loved. Something from your friend's favorite sports team. A team jersey, a t-shirt, or even tickets to a game are just a few good places to start. A collectible item. Lots of people collect things like coffee mugs, cards, and plenty of other objects. Adding something to your friend's collection is a perfect way to show you care. Another option is to make something for her. Have her over and cook her favorite meal for her, or draw her a picture of her. Use your talents to create something that shows you care about her. Give a compliment. Giving a compliment can be more difficult than a physical gift, but be an even better gesture to show her she's special. The most important ideas for giving a good compliment are: Be genuine. Think about things your friend is proud of and reinforce that idea. A genuine complement is more meaningful and is way easier to deliver. Pay attention. If your friend is trying something new, like a new outfit or accessory, that is a great opportunity to say something nice. Complement the person's personality. If your friend does something nice for you, thank them and use an extra sentence or two to let them know you think they're a genuinely kind person. Make sure to smile while you deliver your compliment. Take the person someplace special. Maybe there's a place in the woods that she used to go when she was a kid, or her favorite artist is coming to your city next month. Not only is this a good opportunity to see her, but it will also let her know that you care about her. Some other examples of good places to go include restaurants, vacation destinations, and sporting events. Stay connected. Call them when you have some free time. If you're both busy and it's difficult for you to both make time, schedule a time to talk. You can also stay in touch via text or email. Send them articles that you think she might enjoy, or things that remind you of her. Ask her how significant people are doing. These will all show that you care about her and the important things in her life. When you talk, try to follow up on topics that she previously mentioned. This shows her both that you remember what she was saying and that you care enough to ask about her life. Pay attention to social media. When you talk to her, you'll have something specific to ask her about. When appropriate, comment on and like her posts on Instagram, Facebook, Twitter, etc. Be careful not to overdo it, you don't want to make her uncomfortable or seem clingy. A good example of using social media to make her feel special: She posts a picture of her going skiing. The next time you talk, tell her you saw her post and ask her if she had fun. Did she go with friends or family? This will show her that you are thinking about her, and that you want to learn more about her. Connect the person with a friend. If you don't get to see her often, but know she's looking for friends where she lives, think about other friends you have in her area. If someone comes to mind, introduce the two of them. In addition to showing that you're thinking about her, this will also demonstrate that you care about her happiness even outside of your relationship with her. When you introduce your two friends, tell a fun fact about them to give both of them something to talk about and make them feel good. Example: “Emily, this is my friend Olivia, we played on the same soccer team in high school, and she was by far the best defender on the team. Olivia, Emily and I were both chemistry majors in college and took a lot of classes together, we made class really fun together.” Now they both have context for your friendships, and have a few easy topics to start a conversation. Plan your next hangout. Whether it's tomorrow or next month, setting time aside in advance will show that it is a priority for you to see her. Planning ahead will also help you, in case you need to save up money or vacation time to see your special person. Ask her what she wants to do, and suggest things that you know she'll like. If the two of you have mutual friends or know her good friends, try to include them on the plans. This is an easy way to show her that you're paying attention to the important people in her life. Follow through. Backing out of plans will make her feel like you don't care about her and can undo a lot of the work you've done to make her feel special. If you make plans, don't flake! To prevent this from happening, mark your next event in your calendar and set reminders if you need to. Put post-it notes on your desk or bathroom mirror, or come up with your own way to ensure you don't make other plans on the same day and time.

Smile. Listen. Ask about the person's life. Share a memory. Slightly touch the person often. Learn about the person. Allow the gift to be a surprise. Give something sentimental. Give a compliment. Take the person someplace special. Stay connected. Pay attention to social media. Connect the person with a friend. Plan your next hangout. Follow through.

https://www.wikihow.com/Teach-Your-Older-Dog-Basic-Commands

How to Teach Your Older Dog Basic Commands

To teach your older dog basic commands, stick to positive, rewards-based training so that it stays motivated to learn. For example, if you're teaching your dog to stay, you can put it in a sitting position, hold your hand up and say “stay,” and give it a treat and some praise if it stays seated after you take a step back. If you'd like more help, you can also sign your dog up for obedience classes at a dog training school in your area since these aren't just for puppies.

Use positive reinforcement. Your older dog will be more motivated to continue learning new commands throughout its life, if you use a positive rewards-based method. Training with verbal or physical punishment can scare your dog and make training sessions less fun. You can teach a variety of basic commands, such as “sit”, “down”, “stay”, and “come” to an older dog by using positive reinforcement. For example, teach your dog to “sit” by holding a treat in your hand in front of the dog. Then raise your arm up, causing your dog's head to rise and bottom to lower to the ground. Say “sit” and then give the dog the treat. You can also gently push your dog's bottom to the floor if they need extra guidance. Repeat this exercise daily until your dog has mastered the command. Teach your dog basic commands. The four most important commands to teach your dog are "sit", "down", "stay", and "come." Always use a treat as a lure to help the dog perform the command and then provide them with lots of praise afterwards. Here are a few tips for teaching these commands: To teach “come”: Put your dog on a leash and crouch down to its level. Say “come” and then gently pull the leash. When the dog gets to you, reward it with praise and a treat. Repeat with a leash until they understand the command without the pull. Then practice from further distances without a leash. To teach “down”: Hold a treat in front of your dog's nose. Then move your hand down to the ground so the dog follows, and then slide the treat across the floor so the dog extends into a laying down position. Once in the position, say “down” and give the dog the treat. To teach “stay”: Put the dog in a sitting position. Then hold your hand out in front of you, like a stop sign and say “stay”. Then take a step back. If the dog stays seated praise it and give it a treat. Repeat this and continue to increase the distance. Set aside training time daily. In order to teach an adult dog basic commands, you will need to set aside a few hours each day to work on training. Older dogs, unlike puppies, can concentrate and focus for longer, however, they do not learn as quickly. As a result, you will need to be patient and consistent with your training. Do not get angry or frustrated with your dog and always keep training sessions positive and fun. Only work on one or two commands during a training session. Always conclude training on a positive note. For example, if they are struggling with the “stay” command end the session with a command they have already mastered, like “sit”. Try obedience classes. Formal obedience classes are not just for puppies and they are an excellent way to teach your dog basic commands, especially if you have never trained a dog before. They also provide your dog with an opportunity to socialize with other dogs and people in a controlled and safe environment. If your adult dog has never had any formal training, then you should start with a beginner level obedience class. Obedience classes will provide your adult dog with mental stimulation. They provide an opportunity for you to bond with your dog. This can be especially important if you have adopted an adult dog. Search online to locate a dog training school in your area. Put problem behaviours on cue. Many dogs will develop bad habits throughout their life, such as excessive barking or jumping up on people. These behaviours can often interrupt obedience training. A major part of training an older dog is actually correcting bad behaviours. One way to do this, is to put problem behaviours on cue. For example, teach your dog to bark and stop on command. Try this technique: Say the command “speak” then have a family member or friend ring the doorbell. This will likely cause your dog to bark. To get your dog to stop barking, say the command “shush” and wave a treat in front of its nose. In order to sniff the treat, the dog will have to stop barking. Once it has stopped barking praise the dog and give it the treat. Repeat this training until they associate the commands “bark” and “shush” with treats. Use basic commands to stop problem behaviour. If your dog always jumps up on people when they enter the house or is aggressive at meal time, you will want to modify these behaviours. One way to do this is to stop the bad behaviour and replace it with a basic obedience command. For example, once your dog has learned to sit, you can tell them to sit when someone enters the house. They will not be able to jump up if they are sitting. Alternatively, you could tell your dog to sit and stay while you get out their food. Then once you are ready say "ok" and let them eat. These types of commands will help to solidify your position as the leader in the household. Ensure that all family members are engaged with training. When changing behaviours in an older dog, consistency and patience are very important. To ensure that your dog gets the consistency they need, make sure that all members of the family are engaged in the training and using the same command words. For example, if you are saying “shush” to stop the dog from barking, but another family member says “quiet” this will confuse the dog and slow down the training. Be patient. It will take a lot longer to change bad behaviours that have been accepted or reinforced for years. Change commands if your dog has mobility issues. You may find that your older dog is struggling to learn some of the basic commands, such as sit or lie down. This may be a result of mobility issues, such as hip dysplasia or arthritis. The dog is not following the command because it is too painful. If your dog has mobility issues, you may need to modify training to avoid painful positions. For example, work on the “stay” and “come” commands, instead of “sit”. Modify training if your dog is deaf. Older dogs may also suffer from hearing loss, which makes vocal commands impossible to teach. Do not give up on training, instead, try using hand signals to teach your older dog basic commands. For example, teach your dog to sit using a hand signal. Simply place a treat in your hand, stretch your arm out in front of you (palm facing up) and then move your arm downwards to the side of your leg. At first you may need to give the signal and physically adjust your dog into a sitting position. Once sitting, give the dog a treat. Repeat this until the dog learns the signal command and no longer needs to be adjusted. You can teach other hand signals either by following standard dog obedience commands or by following American Sign Language commands. Use additional voice commands for training a blind dog. In order to teach a blind dog basic obedience commands, you will need to rely more on vocal orders. Always work in a quiet and familiar space. Teach basic commands to a blind dog in the same manner that you would teach a dog with full vision. The only difference is that you may need to provide more vocal directions. For example, if you are teaching your blind dog to "come" they may get disoriented or lost trying to reach you. As a result, you should continue talking to them and providing encouragement. That way they can follow your voice in order to locate you. Adjust your training if your dog has a cognitive disorder. Other factors that may impact your older dog's ability to learn, are cognitive disorders such as “doggy alzheimer's.” For example, your dog may start to display signs of aging, such as disorientation, clinginess, increased sleeping or restlessness, etc. Take your dog to the vet in order to determine the cause of the change in behavior as well as reasonable training goals. Use training to keep your pet's mind active and slow their cognitive decline. Your vet can help you set appropriate training goals that will encourage your dog rather than frustrate them.

Use positive reinforcement. Teach your dog basic commands. Set aside training time daily. Try obedience classes. Put problem behaviours on cue. Use basic commands to stop problem behaviour. Ensure that all family members are engaged with training. Change commands if your dog has mobility issues. Modify training if your dog is deaf. Use additional voice commands for training a blind dog. Adjust your training if your dog has a cognitive disorder.

https://www.wikihow.com/Tie-a-Fisherman%27s-Knot

How to Tie a Fisherman's Knot

To tie a fisherman's knot, grab the ends of the rope in your hands, where the right hand is end 1, and the left hand is end 2, or the “tagline” which does the tying. First, cross end 2 over end 1 and pull end 2 downward and around end 1 to create a loop. Then, pull end 2 through the loop you just made to create a smaller loop inside of the original loop. Pull end 2 through the back of the smaller loop to the front to complete the knot.

Find the tag end of your rope. This is the end of your line and the part that will be doing the knot tying. Designate the end of your rope before you start. Learn the meaning of standing line. This is the rest of your line that would run up toward a reel if you were fishing, or a cinch if you were rock climbing. Basically it is all the middle section of your rope. Understand the turn. The turn is when the end of the rope – the tag end – passes completely around the standing line. Some call this a wrap. Grab hold of both ends of the rope. The end in your left hand is end 2, and the end in your right hand is end 1. End 1 will be doing the knot tying, so recognize this as the tag line. Make sure you give yourself plenty of slack. It's helpful to have a lot of string or rope to work with as you learn. Cross end 2 in front of end 1. You want to cross them so that end 2 lies over end 1. The end of the tagline (end 2) will be behind the loop you have created and pointing downwards. You can leave a short tail or a long tail depending on how much rope you have. To start, make sure that you have at least 6 inches (15 cm) of rope to do the tying. This means that you should have 6 inches (15 cm) of rope above where you crossed it. Pull the tagline through the loop you've created. You've crossed your two lines, so one line should be dangling over the other. Take the dangling piece and start to wrap it around the other piece. As you do this, the part of rope that you originally crossed will start to form a loop. So instead of wrapping that dangling piece (end 2) around end 1, pull end 2 through the loop and up to the left. This will create a smaller loop on top of the larger loop underneath. Keep the loops loose so you're able to get the line through the hole. Pull the tagline through the smaller loop. Using your right hand, pull end 2 through the smaller loop. You should enter the smaller loop from the back and pull up to the front. Start to tighten the loop you made. You can tighten the loop by pulling the tagline with your right hand and end 1 with your left hand. End 1 will be next to the bigger loop at this point. This will create a knot on top of your larger loop. End 1 should be able to slide back and forth enabling you to adjust the loop to the appropriate size. If you have ever tied a tie before, it's a similar concept to the tightening of a tie. Create another small loop. To continue tightening your knot, pull end 1 through the large loop from behind. Imagine a tie that has already been tied. If you were following instructions to make a tighter fisherman's knot, you would take the bottom of the tie and stick it in through the top of the knot that is holding your tie in place. Once you've done this, pull the line upwards once again. This will proceed to make another small loop on top of the larger loop you just pulled your rope through. Pull end 1 through the smaller loop from behind. Make sure you pull it through the loop from behind. Pull the loop to tighten it using your left hand. Tighten the final loop. Just like you tightened the first knot, tighten this knot by pulling the larger loop from either side. If you plan to undo your work and try again, then you probably shouldn't pull too hard or it will be hard to untie the knot.

Find the tag end of your rope. Learn the meaning of standing line. Understand the turn. Grab hold of both ends of the rope. Cross end 2 in front of end 1. Pull the tagline through the loop you've created. Pull the tagline through the smaller loop. Start to tighten the loop you made. Create another small loop. Pull end 1 through the smaller loop from behind. Tighten the final loop.

https://www.wikihow.com/Forgive-Someone

How to Forgive Someone

To forgive someone, try to remember that holding onto anger and blame actually causes you more pain than the person you're upset with, and it can interfere with your future relationships. If you feel like the other person doesn't deserve to be forgiven, try to look at forgiveness as something you can do to help yourself, not them. After all, you'll feel a lot better once you let go of the anger you're carrying with you. Also, just because you forgive them doesn't mean you have to keep them in your life. You can choose to forgive someone and still let them go for your own sake.

Realize that anger could become harmful. Forgiving someone who has done you wrong can be a bitter pill to swallow. Your first reaction is probably to hold on to your anger and blame the person who caused you pain. While this is natural, holding on to hurt and anger causes you more pain than the person your anger is directed towards. For this reason, it is necessary to forgive - not for the other person, but for yourself. Holding a grudge can spoil future relationships with other people, cause depression or resentment, and can isolate you from others. Choose to forgive. Forgiveness requires the conscious, active decision to let go of negativity and to try to move on with life. It does not come naturally or easily. Forgiveness is something you must work towards. Often, people claim that they "cannot" forgive the person who did them wrong. They believe that it is impossible for them to get past their feelings of hurt and betrayal. Yet, what people fail to realize is that forgiveness is a choice. When you choose to forgive people who have hurt you, the person that will benefit most from this decision is you. Release your anger. Let go of all the negative emotions you harbor towards the other person. Allow yourself to cry, hit a punching bag, go into nature and scream, or whatever provides you an outlet for all these bad feelings. If not, they will fester and cause you further pain. Remember, you are not doing this to ease the other person's conscience or to condone his actions. You are doing it to allow yourself to heal and move forward. Maintain perspective. Try to gain some perspective by taking a step back and viewing the situation from an objective point of view. Did the other person try to hurt you intentionally? Were there circumstances beyond his control? Has he attempted to apologize and make things right with you? Try to take everything into account and to calmly analyze the situation. If you can try to understand why and how the situation came about in the first place, it will be easier to forgive. Honestly ask yourself how often you've wronged someone and been forgiven. Remember what that felt like, and how relieved and grateful you felt when the other person forgave you. Sometimes it helps to remember that we're just as prone to hurting others. Talk to someone. Talking to someone you trust will help you process your emotions and gain an unbiased perspective. Just getting everything off your chest can help you feel like a weight has been lifted. A friend, a family member, or a therapist can lend a sympathetic ear or a shoulder to cry on. While you may be tempted to talk to the person you're having trouble forgiving, wait until you are in a calm place and have completely considered your feelings. This will keep you from going off on the person and further damaging the relationship. Find a positive way to express yourself. This will help you release destructive negative emotions and work through your issues. Try keeping a journal or writing letters, using creative methods like painting and poetry, listening to or writing music, running or dancing. Do things that help you to relieve tension and make you feel good. Positively dealing with your emotions will make you more aware of the issues you need to confront. This is key to recognizing and dealing with negative emotions, rather than simply ignoring them. Look to others for inspiration. Read or listen to stories of others who have exercised forgiveness, in even more difficult circumstances than yours. They can be spiritual leaders, therapists, family members, or simply people that wrote about their experiences. These can give you hope and determination. Give it time. Forgiveness does not come with the click of your fingers. It requires self-control, determination, compassion and, above all, time. It is something that can be worked towards, little by little, every day. Remember, no one comes to the end of their life and thinks "I should have stayed angry for longer." In the end, love, empathy and forgiveness are what matter the most. There's not an optimum window of time for forgiving someone. You may find yourself holding onto a grudge for years, then realizing that you need to come to terms with that person. Listen to your instinct. Don't rush to any conclusions. It is important not to make any rash judgments when dealing with the person who hurt you. If you react too quickly, you may say or do something you will regret. Take some time to process what you've just learned and gather more information before acting upon it. Whether it's a partner or family member who has hurt you, don't drastically react. Think about your history with him and whether this was a once off offence or a habit. Make sure you are thinking calmly and rationally before you say something you can't take back or cut him out of your life altogether. Ask to meet up with the person who hurt you. Ask to meet somewhere private. Make it clear that this doesn't necessarily mean that things will go back to normal between the two of you, but that you are willing to hear him out before moving forward. Tell him that you are willing to listen to their side of the story. Listen to his side of the story. When listening to the other person's story, try to sit back and let him do the talking. Don't interrupt or contradict him. If your relationship with this person is what's at stake, the least you can do is hear him out. As clear-cut as the situation may seem to you, you should always take the opportunity to hear the other person's side of the story. You may be surprised at what you learn, and if nothing else, it will allow you to make an informed decision about what to do next. Have compassion. Try to be compassionate when dealing with the person who hurt you. Put yourself in his shoes and ask yourself what you would have done in a similar situation. Would you have acted differently? Try to understand what the other person's motives or intentions were. Was he deliberately trying to hurt you? Did he have your best interests at heart? Or was he simply being careless? Don't burn bridges. When speaking with the person who has hurt you, don't say or do anything you can't take back. Lashing out angrily and throwing insults and accusations at the other person may feel good at the time, but will not help the situation in the long run. It is counter-productive and may ruin your relationship for good. Stay calm when confronting the person who hurt you. Avoid accusatory phrases when addressing the other person. Instead of saying "you made me feel like..." say "I feel like..." Breathe deeply and if they say anything that provokes you, try counting to ten before responding. Tell him how you feel. Once you've had time to cool down and think things through, clearly explain to him, in a calm and measured manner, how his actions have hurt you and how they have made you feel. This is vital, otherwise you will bottle up feelings of anger and resentment towards the other person, making true forgiveness impossible. Let him know how this has impacted your relationship, especially if it's a romantic one. Once you have expressed your feelings clearly and thoroughly, it is important that you move on. If you have decided to forgive this person for his actions, you cannot bring up past hurts every time you have an argument or hold it over his head. Don't try to get even. When working towards forgiveness, it is important to let go of the notion of getting even or taking revenge on the person who has hurt you. Trying to get even will only result in more people getting hurt, including you. You need to be the bigger person, try to forgive and move on. Instead, work to rebuild trust and your relationship. This is especially important if the conflict is between a relative. You'll want to resolve any family tension, since you'll probably be interacting with him for a long time. For example, if your partner has cheated on you, you will solve nothing by cheating on him in return. You will only cause more pain and resentment. Two wrongs don't make a right. Your forgiveness won't count for much if it only comes after you've had your revenge. Let him know that you forgive him. If he asked for forgiveness, he'll be grateful and relieved that you can work towards rebuilding your relationship. If he didn't ask for it, at least you can get if off your chest and move forward with your life. Remember that forgiving someone does not necessarily mean that things will go back to normal between you. If you feel that he may have hurt you one too many times or you don't think you can trust him again, that's okay. Just make this clear to him as well. This may seem easier in a romantic relationship that is ending, since you most likely won't see each other very much. It's harder to do in a family situation, since you'll be encountering each other regularly. Figure out what you want. It is important to understand that even if you forgive the person, you don't need to let him back into your life. Decide whether you want to rebuild a relationship with him or let him go. In order to this, you need to think long and hard about your relationship. Is it worth rebuilding? Is he likely to hurt you again if you let him back in? In some situations, such as an abusive relationship or a relationship where your partner has cheated multiple times, it is safer and healthier to cut the person out of your life for good. You deserve better. Focus on the future. Once you have made the decision to forgive, you need to forget about the past and focus on the future. If you decide that the relationship is worth rebuilding, then you can slowly start to move forward. Let the person know that even though they hurt you, you still love him and want him in your life. If you continue to dwell on past hurts, you will never be able to truly forgive or move forward. Look on the bright side and see this situation as an opportunity to make a fresh start. It might be just what your relationship needs. Rebuild trust. Once you have been hurt, it can be difficult to rebuild trust. However, it's important that you learn to trust yourself - your judgment and your ability to make well-informed decisions. Then you can work towards rebuilding trust with the other person. Make a commitment to be completely open and honest with one another about everything. Take it one day at a time. Trust can't be earned overnight. You need give the other person time to regain your trust. Make a list of positives. Try to look on the bright side by making a list of the positive things you can take away from the experience. These might include: realizing the extent of your ability to understand and forgive, gaining valuable life lessons about trust, or having a closer relationship with the person who wronged you since you worked through your issues together. If you start remembering the hurt and pain the other person caused you, don't let that thinking take hold. If you do, you might have to revisit your past for the answer. Don't look at this as another reason to be angry. Instead, see this as an opportunity to heal. Remember that you did the right thing. Sometimes forgiveness will mean nothing to the person you've given it to and sometimes a relationship just can't be fixed. Even if the situation doesn't resolve itself the way you had hoped, remember that you did the right thing. To forgive is a noble action, and it's one that you won't regret. Remember that forgiveness is a process. Just saying that you forgive someone does not make it true. You will need to work towards it, little by little, each day. However, saying it out loud will help you to stand by your decision.

Realize that anger could become harmful. Choose to forgive. Release your anger. Maintain perspective. Talk to someone. Find a positive way to express yourself. Look to others for inspiration. Give it time. Don't rush to any conclusions. Ask to meet up with the person who hurt you. Listen to his side of the story. Have compassion. Don't burn bridges. Tell him how you feel. Don't try to get even. Let him know that you forgive him. Figure out what you want. Focus on the future. Rebuild trust. Make a list of positives. Remember that you did the right thing.

https://www.wikihow.com/Punt-a-Soccer-Ball

How to Punt a Soccer Ball

To punt a soccer ball, start by holding the ball in your hands at waist height. Then, take a step with your kicking foot and push off of it before planting your other foot on the ground. Next, when you're ready, drop the ball straight down toward the ground. At the same time, bring your kicking leg straight up so it makes contact with the ball. Right after you make contact with the ball, point your toes up so they make a right angle with your shin, which will help the ball go higher and further.

Punt only if you’re the goalie. The only player on the soccer field who will ever pick up the ball for a punt is the goalie. There is no circumstance in soccer that allows any other player to punt the ball. While you might be called on occasionally in practice to pick up the ball and punt it, it's not a skill that you need to practice unless you're the goalie. Punts must be made within the 18 yard (16.5 m) box. When you pick up the ball, you can punt anywhere inside your box. If you want to take it outside of the box, you've got to drop it on the ground. Hold the ball at waist height. When you pick up the ball, hold it in both hands gently, at a height about even with your waist. It doesn't need to be perfect, but it's usually easiest to punt the ball by dropping it from waist-height and no higher. Your arms should be out straight from your body, with the ball held in your fingers. You'll see many goalies dribbling the ball before they punt it, or holding it in one hand while they gesture, but you should hold onto the ball securely with two hands as you complete your pre-punt steps. Don't try to get fancy. Just hold the ball. Punting a soccer ball will happen pretty fast, which means a lot of steps will have to happen at once. Most goalies will have the ball in one hand as they take the steps and extend and drop it in one big fluid motion. Practice blending all these steps together to make it comfortable for you. Take your first step with your kicking foot. Take your lead step with the step you'll eventually kick with. Your dominant foot should be used to punt the ball, which is the foot you'd normally kick with. If you're right-footed, take your first step with your right foot. Some goalies will elect to take multiple steps, but all you need is two. One lead step and one plant step is all that's necessary, before bringing your lead leg up and following through with the punt. Practice some to see what is most comfortable and powerful for you. Push off your lead foot and plant your other foot firmly into the ground. This will provide your pivot point, a form in which you'll lift your kicking leg and launch the ball into play. Your two lead-up steps should happen quickly, and be spread fairly far apart as if you were about to take off running. This will put more power into your kick. The lead steps should happen at the speed of a jog, regardless of how many steps you choose to take in your lead-up. As you plant, your kicking leg should be cocked back behind you, trailing from your initial step. You'll swing it forward to kick with. Bring your kicking leg straight up. When you plant your pivot foot and leg, imagine your kicking foot is attached by a magnet to the ball. Rotate your hip so your leg comes up perpendicular to the ground, swinging into the ball and making contact. Keep your eyes locked on the ball at all times and stay focused. The punt should come from the hip. try to picture your kicking leg as a club that you're whipping up into the ball as it falls, cranking from your hip joint. Rather than coming straight up, many soccer players will cross their leg over their plant leg. A lot of the punt has to do with where you want it to go and what feels most comfortable for you. Practice punting and making the ball go where you want, not on the "perfect" technique. Drop the ball straight down. The moment just before you start to bring your kicking leg up and swing freely into the ball, remember to drop it straight down in front of you. Just let go. Never toss the ball up to attempt to punt it, or throw it out in front of you. Let your momentum carry you into the ball naturally, don't try to get fancy by throwing it anywhere specifically. The odds of your missing it become much greater if you toss it. Drop it instead. Point your toe up after contacting the ball. As you're swinging your leg into the kick, point the toes of your kicking foot. The ball should make contact with the hardest part of your foot, just along the laces. As soon as it does, point your foot up, so it makes a right-angle with your shin, as if you were standing normally. This will help to put more lift and distance into your kick. Never try to kick the ball with your instep, the tips of your toes, or with any other part of your foot. This will cause the ball to skew off in unpredictable directions. Follow through. When you're finished, your foot should come up and point straight in the direction where you want the ball to go, lifting you off the ground gently. You shouldn't have to jump, necessarily, but be careful to let your body follow through with the kick so you don't hyper-extend your hamstring and stretch out your leg uncomfortably. Land gently on your pivot leg, turning your attention immediately back to your goalkeeping duties. Punt quickly after making the save. Ideally, a punt is an essential transition from defense into offense for your team. If you were quick enough to make a big save, help your team by transitioning quickly and efficiently back into offense, putting the ball into play for your team. Look for open players and open spaces where your players will be able to run onto the ball. You want to be quick, but not too quick. Wait until the opposing players clear out of the box and give you enough room to make your punt. Everyone should be heading back downfield to get on defense, and your players should be streaking downfield to get open on offense. Put the ball into open space. You don't just want to punt randomly, or send the ball back immediately to the other team. Look for open spaces that your teammates will be able to run onto the ball. The momentum should be carrying the ball in the appropriate direction, allowing you to have the advantage, as long as an opponent doesn't get a head or a foot on it. Look for open space and send the ball toward it. Don’t kick it too high. Think of a punt as the first play of an offensive movement. Don't just send the ball straight up into the air because it's fun. try to make something happen with it. Eventually, you want the ball to be going toward your opponent's goal, not straight up in the air. It's harder for your teammates to control a very high-arcing punt, so focus on keeping your punts long and accurate, not super-high and out of control. If your punts tend to go extremely high, focus on letting the ball drop down a little farther before you make contact with it. Most goalies drop the ball almost all the way to the ground before making contact. Start dropping the ball slightly earlier in your punt to get the timing correct. Practice your back-spin. One excellent way of controlling wild punts is in working on your back-spin, making the ball arc and head downfield, but stop rolling upon landing, giving your punt a more reliable accuracy. This is done by bringing your toe up as soon as you make contact with the ball, creating a right angle with your foot and your shin. If you can punt like this, it'll be a lot easier for your teammates to control the punt eventually. Don’t punt every time. Instead of punting, you can also roll the ball to one of your teammates after the opposition has cleared out, or you can throw the ball to your teammates as they're transitioning into offense. This can sometimes be a much-quicker, though less powerful, way of getting the ball into play. If your opponents defenders are pushed way up toward the midfield, punting might turn the ball right back over to them. It might be smarter to roll the ball to one of your defenders and transition into offense that way. It's also common for some goalies to toss the ball onto the ground and take an impromptu free-kick. You'll definitely want to make sure that all of your opponents have cleared out completely if you try this, because they'll be able to come in for a challenge as soon as you put the ball on the ground. . Stretch out your hamstring first Because you'll be stretching your kicking leg somewhat high to complete a punt, it's important to stretch out thoroughly before attempting or practicing punts, and never attempt to punt “cold.” Always follow through with your kicks to keep your hamstrings safe and loose.

Punt only if you’re the goalie. Hold the ball at waist height. Take your first step with your kicking foot. Push off your lead foot and plant your other foot firmly into the ground. Bring your kicking leg straight up. Drop the ball straight down. Point your toe up after contacting the ball. Follow through. Punt quickly after making the save. Put the ball into open space. Don’t kick it too high. Practice your back-spin. Don’t punt every time. .

https://www.wikihow.com/Find-and-Care-For-an-Antlion

How to Find and Care For an Antlion

To find and care for an antlion, or doodlebug, start by preparing a container to keep it in. For the best view, choose a clear container, and make sure it's at least 4 inches across as well as deep enough for the antlion to dig and build its den. Once you've chosen your container, look for antlions somewhere sandy, like the beach, and catch one using a sand sifter. After you've added the antlion to your container, feed it small ants from the area where you found it, as well as the occasional fruit fly, mealworm, or mosquito larvae.

Find a good container for the antlion. Antlions are very active diggers, so make sure they have enough space to dig out a pit for their prey. Use a plastic cup or a similar small plastic container. It should be clear so you can observe the antlion. Make sure it's at least 4 inches across. Wash your container with lukewarm water and non-toxic detergents. Order an antlion den or Zen garden. You can search online if you'd prefer to purchase a premade habitat, such as an antlion den. Make sure your antlion environment has enough space. As antlions get bigger, they will need more space to dig and build their “den”. Fill your environment with fine substrates such as sand or sugar. Antlions can survive in any environment, though sand and dirt is its natural home. Filter out your substrate, especially if you're using anything that may have rocks or clumps of dirt. Antlions can remove any large blockages, but it will be easier for them to have a smooth and consistent place to live. Fill your environment about halfway with sand. Make sure the antlion is not smothered by the sand and has enough space to build a pit. Make sure the diameter across the level of the sand is at least 4 inches. This will make sure your antlion has enough space to build their pit. Prepare the habitat for your antlion’s cocoon stage. If you want to keep an adult antlion, make sure you have covered the habitat so it won't escape. Also, put a small stick in the sand for it to perch on so its wings will develop properly. Recognize when your antlion stops eating. This is a clear sign that they are beginning their pupa stage. Antlions spin a cocoon under the sand in order to become an adult. This stage will last approximately 3 weeks. When antlions emerge as an adult, they will have wings. Make sure you have prepared their environment so they cannot fly away and have somewhere to perch. Cover the habitat with a ventilated lid or net so the adult antlion won't escape. They will fly out of the habitat if you're not careful and they can hurt themselves outside of their habitat. Free your antlion when it becomes an adult so it can procreate. Adult antlions will grow too big for your habitat. This will enable it to reproduce and live out its relatively short life. Check sandy areas such as playgrounds or beaches. Antlions don't like people, so avoid well-trodden areas. Instead, try to find relatively secluded areas to find antlions. Find secluded sandy areas. Antlions will not be found in the middle of a busy beach or playground. Look for cone-shaped pits. They should look like hollow cone with a hole in the middle like a funnel. This is a clear sign of nearby antlions. Antlions can live in many other kinds of substrates. Check out other areas with a lot of dirt if you don't have any sandy areas nearby. Scoop out the pits with a sand sifter. You may have to try multiple times to make sure you find a living antlion larva. Use the scoop near the antlion pit. They may not be in the pit at the time, so you may need to try around the pit as well. Carefully sift out the sand. Make sure you don't hurt the antlion by being too rough with the sifter. Continue using the sifter in the area until you find the antlion. Stay attentive, since the antlion is the same color as its sandy environment. Put the antlion in a temporary container. Make sure it's secure and safe, so you can get it home. Bring a small cup or other container. Fill it with sand from the area where you found the antlion. Keep your antlion habitat along with your antlion inside a dark area. These habitats may be the best designed for your antlion. Don't worry if the antlion is on its back and playing dead. In a few moments, it will get up and try to bury itself again. Once you get the antlion back to your home, put it in its environment. Let the insect get used to its new home for at least 24 hours. Be careful when opening the package when it arrives. You don't want to injure the antlion. Once the antlion is out of the box, make sure to have its habitat prepared and ready. The antlion will need time to adjust after being shipped. Feed your antlion. Antlions are known most for eating ants, but they can also eat smaller insects. Make sure to feed them at least one ant twice a day. Give your antlion ants. Ants are the most common food for antlions. Make sure not to give them any ants that are too big. Gather relatively small ants near where you found your antlion. Supply your antlion with fruit flies or mealworms. Give them small amounts so they are able to eat and digest the smaller insects. Feed the antlion aphids, mosquito larva, or pinhead crickets. These are also good insects that are small enough for your antlion. Don’t worry about supplying the antlion with water. Antlions get most of the water they need from their food. If you are worried about your antlion getting enough water, you can mist their sand every two weeks. Make sure not to flood the antlion habitat if you mist their sand. Antlions can drown, especially in their pit. Check on your antlion to make sure it's getting enough food. If not, it may also not be getting enough water. Pick up your antlion. You can pick up your antlion and hold it in the palm of your hand. Just be careful to avoid being bitten or harming your antlion. Stretch your palm and create a flat surface. Make sure you don't have any folds of skin for antlions to grasp onto. Transfer your antlion to your other palm if they wander towards the edge of your palm. Keep your other palm flat and stretched as well. Keep some sand on your palm so the antlion thinks it's on the ground. Antlions feel most comfortable in sand. Avoid antlion bites. While antlions rarely bite, they occasionally bite when they feel threatened. Keep the antlion in a comfortable environment when you pick it up. Keep them in the palm of your hand. Don't let the antlion move to the back of your hand, since it may realize it's not on the ground. If the antlion does bite you, stay very calm. Put the antlion back in its habitat. Do not move your hand rapidly since you can harm the antlion. Antlion venom causes a sharp, burning sensation. It will last for several minutes, but does not have long-term effects. Be gentle. Antlions have bodies that are very vulnerable. Try to not be too rough when handling them. Do not pick up antlions with your fingers. You can crush the antlions by doing so. If you want to pick up the antlion, place your hand in their habitat with some sand on it. Let the antlion come to your flat palm. Antlions in classrooms are especially at risk. Tell children to observe proper antlion handling or do not let them touch the antlion directly.

Find a good container for the antlion. Fill your environment with fine substrates such as sand or sugar. Prepare the habitat for your antlion’s cocoon stage. Check sandy areas such as playgrounds or beaches. Scoop out the pits with a sand sifter. Put the antlion in a temporary container. Feed your antlion. Don’t worry about supplying the antlion with water. Pick up your antlion. Avoid antlion bites. Be gentle.

https://www.wikihow.com/Survive-the-Loss-of-a-Love

How to Survive the Loss of a Love

To survive the loss of a love, remind yourself that recovery is possible as long as you don't give up. Take time to acknowledge your loss and truly grieve it, since rushing yourself through the process could make it difficult to fully heal. If you want to talk to someone, don't be afraid to call up a friend or look into therapy, if you think it could help. For now, breathe, rest, and stick to a schedule that keeps your body healthy and nourished. As you cycle through the different emotions that come with grief, try writing down your thoughts in a journal if talking about them is too difficult. Also, make sure to let yourself laugh and enjoy things, since you need to experience positive emotions even when you're grieving.

Reassure yourself. Right now, it might be difficult to believe that you can ever move on from your loss. Recovery is possible, though, as long as you don't give up. The healing process has a beginning, middle, and end for everyone. You're stuck at the beginning now, but if you keep moving forward, you'll eventually reach the end. Don't get discouraged by the occasional regression. You may feel worse today than you did yesterday, but that's not necessarily a bad sign. Surviving the loss of love usually requires you to go through both ups and downs. Acknowledge the loss. If you still find yourself in a state of disbelief, you need to stop running from the loss and admit that it has happened. You need to admit that you lost your love before you can recover from the pain of it. Don't downplay the loss, either. Your suffering is real. You don't need to feel ashamed of it, nor do you need to hide the fact that you're going through it. Let yourself hurt. Pain naturally follows loss, and the loss of a love is no exception. Fighting the need to grieve will leave you feeling more worn out than living with your grief will do. Don't rush yourself through your grief, either. Everyone heals at his or her own pace, so you shouldn't try to shorten your grieving period in an attempt to seem more "normal." Get the help you need. It's important to give yourself the support system you need right now. Humans are social creatures, so it is easier to survive loss when you're surrounded by people who care about you. If you feel suicidal or find yourself spiraling out of control, seek immediate professional help. Call the National Suicide Prevention Lifeline at: 1-800-273-8255 Even if you're emotionally stable, you should still seek comfort and support from loved ones. Accepting help from others can make you feel more vulnerable, but right now, it is ultimately better to be vulnerable with people who genuinely care for you than to isolate yourself. Note that help from those who have undergone a similar loss can be especially beneficial. If none of your loved ones have lost a love in a similar manner, consider looking for a support group. Non-emergency professional help is another option to consider. Counselors and therapists are trained to help people sort through losses just like yours. Scheduling an appointment with a professional is not an overreaction to your loss. Breathe. Meditative breathing can recharge your body and calm your mind. It's a simple technique that can be performed whenever you feel overwhelmed by the pain. Sit, stand, or lie down in an area free from distraction. Exhale fully and inhale deeply. Stretch your abdomen and chest with each breath. Focus on your breathing for a few minutes until you feel yourself calm down. Rest. Give yourself a chance to rest physically, mentally, and emotionally. Pushing yourself too quickly can result in a meltdown and a major setback. Get plenty of sleep at night. If you're able to nap in the middle of the day and you know your body needs it, indulge in a midday nap, too. Don't engage in any project that requires heavy emotional or mental commitment for a while. Delay decisions until you feel as though your mind has cleared to prevent errors and additional regrets. Take care of your body. Get the nutrition you need and avoid substances that may make you feel worse. Remain physically active, as well. Don't skip meals; it is important to give your body the nutrients it needs even when you don't feel hungry. Eat balanced meals and try to drink eight glasses of water per day. Avoid caffeine, alcohol, nicotine, and drugs. You can indulge in the occasional sugary comfort food, but don't allow yourself to binge on junk food. Cardiovascular exercise is good for both your body and your mind. Studies have shown that it can reduce feelings of anxiety and depression during hard times. Try walking at a moderate pace for 20 minutes at least three times a week. Keep to a schedule. You need to rest your mind and body, but you shouldn't let yourself become lethargic. Light activity can help you stay on track. Don't worry about introducing new things into your schedule yet. Simply stick with your current workload. If your current workload seems too much to handle, ask those around you to help out for a while. Do as much as you can without feeling overwhelmed and stressed out. It's okay to move at a slow pace as long as you keep moving. Cycle through the emotions. You may feel a range of emotions during the healing stage, including grief, anger, and fear. Let yourself work through each emotion as it comes instead of trying to ignore it. Mourn now. Deal with the emotional wound while it is still fresh to avoid later complications. Don't pretend that you're happier than you feel. Pretending requires you to use precious energy that could go toward actually healing. Let yourself cry, shout, and vent your hurt in similarly harmless ways. Expect to feel afraid. You might be afraid of being alone or afraid that you'll never love again. The first step to conquering any fear is confronting it, so you'll need to be honest about the things you fear before you can bravely work through them. Confront all related issues that surface. Losing your love might cause unresolved issues from the past to rise back to the surface. Accept that your current loss is connected to your past pain instead of trying to separate the two. If your current loss triggers an old issue, the two are unquestionably connected. By healing from your current loss, you may even start to heal from that past pain. Accept yourself. The loss of your love is not a reflection of your worth as a human being. No matter how the relationship came to an end, you need to remember that there is more to who you are than your failed relationship. Be gentle with yourself. Ask yourself how you would respond to a loved one dealing with your sort of grief and give yourself the same sort of compassion and sympathy. Take the time to reaffirm healthy beliefs. These can include healthy beliefs about your own self-worth, as well as healthy beliefs about the world around you. If you practice a faith or religion, now can be a good time to explore it further. Make a clean break. It might seem tempting to reconcile with your lost love, but even if neither of you is to blame, reconciliation at this time is often futile and more painful than it's worth. You need to focus on moving forward. Your past love is part of your past, and right now, you should let him or her stay in your past. Ask yourself if keeping photographs and mementos are hurting you or helping you. Keep them if they help you heal, but if they delay your healing, get rid of them. You don't have to destroy them, but you should at least pack them away and put them in a place that is out of reach. Avoid rebounds. Many people rush into new romances before they're ready as a way to fill the emptiness they feel from their loss. A premature rebound is likely to lead to another loss, though. Focus on yourself right now. Once you feel satisfied, happy, and whole, you can step back out into the dating world. If your new love seems perfect in every way, you're probably fooling yourself. Make sure that you view each new relationship realistically. Reflect. Give yourself time to reflect on the past and acknowledge your present feelings. Ignoring your grief won't allow you to heal from it. Try keeping a journal, but don't force yourself to write in it each day. Use your journal to get thoughts and emotions out of your system when you aren't able to express them or make sense of them otherwise. Laugh. Let yourself laugh again. You need to let yourself experience grief, but you also need to introduce positive emotion back into your daily routine. Watch or read something funny. Spend time with people who make you laugh. If you can find humor in your loss, or in certain aspects of your loss, let yourself do so. Focus on forward motion. Once you've confronted your present hurt, you need to give yourself permission to move forward. The grieving/healing stage lasts longer for some than it does for others, so there is no way to predict how much time will pass before you are able to grow past it. Once the urge to move forward becomes natural instead of forced, however, you may want to consider acting on it. You don't need to forget the past, but you do need to reach a point where it is no longer your focus. Forgive. You need to forgive both yourself and your lost love. Your anger and bitterness has no effect on your lost love. Instead of making him or her miserable, you will only make yourself miserable. Admit to any mistakes you made. Instead of regretting those errors, commit yourself to correcting them in the present and avoiding them in the future. Consider the good. Even though this experience brought you pain, it may have benefitted you in some way, too. Consider the positive things you gained from the relationship and the split. For instance, your lost love may have introduced you to a hobby you're passionate about or taught you a skill you're glad to have. In general, people are often improved by the process of loving someone. Nurturing your ability to love with one person can make it easier to love yourself and those around you. Losing your old love can open the door for a healthier relationship or new path in life. Pursue your interests. Indulge in old interests but try to find a few new ones, as well. Old interests and passions can be comforting, so they can give you the strength to keep moving forward on otherwise dark days. New interests shake up your routine and encourage growth as a whole person. By developing a side of you that your lost love never knew, you may begin to feel as though you really have changed from who you were in the past. Meet new people. Don't abandon your old friends, but don't undervalue the importance of making new friends, either. New friends never knew who you were while you were in your old relationship, so their presence won't remind you of your past hurt. As you meet new people, do your best to be trusting, open, and honest with them. Doing so might be difficult after you were hurt so badly, but remember that the new people you meet were not responsible for your past pain and deserve an opportunity to earn your trust. Love yourself. Learn to love yourself when you're alone. You should love who you currently are, but working toward some positive self-improvements can reinvigorate your self-esteem and make the process easier. Quit a bad habit, like smoking, or start on a healthy diet and exercise program (if you need it). If there's an aspect of your personality that frustrates you, take steps to improve it. For instance, consider a class on public speaking if you want to be more comfortable talking in front of strangers. Work on one self-improvement at a time to avoid overwhelming yourself. If you overwhelm yourself, you're more likely to fail, and failure may cause a setback in your growth. Let yourself love others. When you have a hard time loving yourself or begin feeling sorry for yourself, a good way to combat the feeling is to focus on doing something kind for someone else. Be there for your friends and relatives when they need your support. Take time to volunteer. Mow your neighbor's lawn or spend a few hours at a local soup kitchen. Walk dogs at a nearby animal shelter or visit an acquaintance in the hospital.

Reassure yourself. Acknowledge the loss. Let yourself hurt. Get the help you need. Breathe. Rest. Take care of your body. Keep to a schedule. Cycle through the emotions. Confront all related issues that surface. Accept yourself. Make a clean break. Avoid rebounds. Reflect. Laugh. Focus on forward motion. Forgive. Consider the good. Pursue your interests. Meet new people. Love yourself. Let yourself love others.

https://www.wikihow.pet/Keep-Your-Dog%27s-Breath-Fresh

How to Keep Your Dog's Breath Fresh

To keep your dog's breath fresh, brush its teeth a few times per week using a small amount of pet-safe toothpaste on a brush or sponge. Rub the paste onto the teeth in a gentle, circular motion, focusing on the outer surfaces of the upper teeth. When the brushing is done, reward the dog with a dental chew or play session. If you have trouble brushing your dog's teeth, consider using a water additive to reduce plaque, and schedule regular cleanings with your vet to treat dental issues. Always pay attention to what your dog eats to ensure their health.

Get the right equipment. The most effective method for keeping your dog's teeth healthy and breath fresh is brushing its teeth as often as possible. Before you can brush your dog's teeth, you need appropriate supplies. Choose dog-friendly products from the pet store or your veterinarian. Human toothpastes are not suitable for dogs because they are not safe to swallow in large amounts. You can find dog toothpaste at your local pet store. These come in a variety of flavors including chicken, liver, and peanut butter. Try a few different types until you find one your pet likes. Pet stores also sell toothbrushes for dogs, including some that fit on your finger. They also sell dental sponges that work equally well. A piece of clean gauze wrapped around your finger will also work as a toothbrush. If you have problems using toothpaste and a brush, you can also use single-use pet dental wipes. These come pre-moistened with a cleaning product suitable for your dog's teeth. Help your dog get used to the process. Do not expect to be able to thoroughly brush your dog's teeth immediately. You'll need to teach the dog that brushing is a pleasant experience. Start by dipping a finger in peanut butter, chicken broth or something else the dog likes. Let the pet lick it off your finger. While it is doing this, gently rub your finger against the dog's teeth and gums. If the dog allows you to rub its gums, lift its lip as you would if you were brushing the teeth. Do this for a few days, alternating tasty treats with your dog's toothpaste. Once your dog is comfortable with you touching its teeth and gums, you can move on to using a brush or sponge. Don't rush this. Make sure to go at your dog's pace and stop if it seems nervous or aggressive. Your safety and your pet's comfort are important. Brush your dog's teeth regularly. Once your dog will allow you, brush its teeth often. Daily brushing is ideal, but even doing it a few times a week can help ward off dental disease. Here are some tips for effective brushing: Use a small amount of toothpaste on the brush or sponge. Place the brush or sponge against the teeth at a 45-degree angle to the surface of the tooth. If using a brush, point the bristles, toward the gumline. Work the toothbrush in a circular motion, covering two or three teeth at a time. Brush all the teeth if possible, but concentrate your attention on the outer surfaces of the upper teeth. Try to spend about 15 seconds on each side of the mouth. When finished, reward your dog with a play session, a special toy, or a dental chew. This will help build a positive association with tooth brushing. Use a dental rinse or gel containing Chlorhexidine. The most effective anti-plaque antiseptic is chlorhexidine. Generally, to use a rinse, you squirt a small amount inside each of the dog's cheeks. To use a gel, you typically rub a small amount on the teeth. Chlorhexidine binds to teeth and other oral tissues and is released gradually. This allows it to act for a longer period of time than other suitable antiseptics.This helps keep your dog's mouth clean and breath fresh longer than other products. Chlorhexidine is generally safe for dogs. However, it tastes bitter unless it mixed with flavorings, so you should buy a product designed for dogs. These products are available from pet pharmacies, pet stores and veterinary practices. Make sure to follow the directions on the packaging of the product you select. Try a water additive. A variety of additives with anti-plaque activity are available from veterinarians and pet pharmacies. They contain low levels of anti-plaque ingredients that contact the teeth as the dog drinks. This can help keep plaque levels down. The effectiveness of many of these products is debatable. Some, however, are helpful and have earned Veterinary Oral Health Council (VOHC) approval. This means tests have found that they have anti-plaque properties. Many of these products are safe for both dogs and cats. Carefully read the label of any product before giving it to your pets. Never let a cat drink anything labeled for dogs unless the instructions state it is safe for cats. It is important to talk to your veterinarian before using one of these products to make sure it is right for your pet. These products are not substitutes for brushing or professional dental care. Watch what your dog eats. Sometimes, dogs develop foul breath from eating garbage, feces or other stinky substances. Do your best to prevent your pet from eating inappropriate foods and non-food items. Make sure to clean out your dog's mouth by brushing its teeth and/ or using a rinse if it eats something unpleasant. Be sure to watch your pet for any signs of illness if your dog has eaten something it shouldn't have. If it appears sick, lethargic or behaves strangely, take your dog to a veterinarian right away. Some commercial diets are designed to help prevent dental disease. A few have earned VOHC approval. In some cases, the kibble size and hardness are designed to shear plaque from the teeth with chewing. Others contain anti-plaque ingredients. Dental diets are not a substitute for brushing or regular dental care. However, they can help keep plaque levels down. Talk to your veterinarian about the advisability of using one of these diets. Provide appropriate chew toys and treats. Dental chews and treats encourage a dog to chew. This action mechanically removes plaque and debris from the teeth. Choose a toy your dog will chew often. Consider smearing peanut butter or some other tasty substance on chew toys. This will encourage your dog to play with them. To maximize oral health benefits, choose chews, toys and treats suggested by your veterinarian or approved by the VOHC.These products meet specific standards for plaque and tartar prevention in small animals. Always keep an eye on your dog when it is playing with a chew toy. Take away broken toys and small pieces. Like children, dogs can choke on toys or swallow them. This can lead to gastrointestinal obstructions. Prevent your dog from chewing unhealthy toys and treats. Some things that dogs like to chew on are not healthy or safe for dogs. In particular: Avoid cow hooves, dried natural bones and hard nylon products. These products are too hard to mimic the action of tearing meat off a carcass. Using them increases the risk of your dog damaging its teeth or gums. Limit use of rawhide chews, especially in small dogs. Do not allow dogs to consume large pieces. They are a choking hazard and may interfere with digestion. Never allow dogs to chew rawhide products unsupervised. Replace the chews as soon as they become worn. Never give your dog cooked or cut bones. Consider avoiding bones altogether. Both the American Veterinary Medical Association and the FDA advise against giving bones to dogs. There is a risk of oral injuries from splintered bones. They can also cause choking, gastrointestinal obstruction, and internal damage from swallowed pieces. Bacterial infection is also a possible risk. Schedule regular cleanings. Home care is not enough for long-term maintenance of oral health. To keep your dog's mouth healthy and its breath fresh, you also need to provide professional dental care. Regular veterinary visits should include dental evaluations. Your dog's age, breed, and home care regimen will determine how often it needs dental cleanings. Ask your vet for more details. If your veterinarian notes periodontal disease or other dental issues, your dog needs a professional cleaning and examination. Unlike people, dogs will not sit still with their mouths open for a long time. This makes it harder to clean teeth, take radiographs and perform other necessary procedures. Anesthesia is often needed for dental cleanings in dogs. Watch for signs of dental problems. Bad breath is often one of the first signs of dental issues, but there are other signs of dental disease. Dental problems can contribute to a wide variety of other health problems. Signs of potential dental disease in dogs include the following: Bad breath. Broken, discolored or damaged teeth, or oral bleeding. Increased or excessive drooling. Difficulty opening or closing the mouth. Loss of appetite or reluctance to chew food or toys. Swelling, lumps, or sensitivity around the mouth. Rubbing the mouth or face. Behavior changes. Recurrent eye infections, swelling, or discharge of pus. Recognize the symptoms of systematic disease. Other illnesses, including diabetes, parasite infection, liver disease, and kidney disease can also produce unpleasant or unusual breath. If you notice your dog's breath is fruity, smells like urine, or is otherwise odd or foul, make sure to take it to your veterinarian as soon as possible.

Get the right equipment. Help your dog get used to the process. Brush your dog's teeth regularly. Use a dental rinse or gel containing Chlorhexidine. Try a water additive. Watch what your dog eats. Provide appropriate chew toys and treats. Prevent your dog from chewing unhealthy toys and treats. Schedule regular cleanings. Watch for signs of dental problems. Recognize the symptoms of systematic disease.

https://www.wikihow.com/Have-Good-Hygiene-(Boys)

How to Have Good Hygiene (Boys)

Having good hygiene is all about sticking to a daily routine to keep yourself clean. Shower daily with soap and hot water to ensure your body stays fresh. You should also brush your teeth twice daily and floss once a day to remove any bacteria, which can cause bad breath. Wear clean clothes every day, because putting on dirty items can cause bacteria to build up on your body. Wear deodorant under your arms to cut down on how much you sweat and keep you smelling good. Remember to wash your hands regularly throughout the day, since it's easy to pick up germs and bacteria by touching things or coming into contact with others.

Take a shower every day. Once you get old enough to start going through puberty, daily showering is essential to have good hygiene. Use soap and hot water when you shower and concentrate on your face, hands, feet, underarms, groin and bottom. Shower after you sweat a lot, like after sports or a physical activity. Wash your hair regularly. If you have coarse, dry, or very curly hair, you may not want to wash it every day because it could dry it out. However, if you have exceptionally greasy, oily, or fine hair, you should do it every day to prevent oils from building up. Test it out and see how often you have to wash your hair before it starts looking or feeling oily. Conditioner moisturizes dry hair and keeps it smelling good. Brush and floss your teeth every day. Brush your teeth two to three times throughout the day to keep healthy gums and teeth. Each time you brush, make sure that you are scrubbing all of your teeth and take your time. Also, make sure that you floss at least once a day. This should keep your mouth clean and keep it smelling good. You should brush your teeth for two minutes each session. You should replace your toothbrush every two to three months. Clip your nails. Cut your nails whenever they are getting long with a clipper or manicure scissors. You should also keep them clean by washing them when you wash your hands. Keeping shorter nails will help you maintain good nail hygiene. Change your clothes daily. Wearing dirty clothes can cause microorganisms and bacteria to build up on your body. It's especially important to change clothes that are closest to your body, like undershirts or underwear. Doing this daily will prevent your clothes from smelling bad and will keep you clean. Ideally, try to keep at least five good shirts and three pairs of jeans that you could wear to school over the course of the school week. You should also change your clothes after you sweat a lot. If you need to wash your own clothes read Wash-Your-Clothes. Apply underarm deodorant. If you sweat a lot, underarm antiperspirant will prevent you from sweating. If you still live with your parents, ask them to buy some deodorant for you at the store. Apply the deodorant every day when you wake up so that your underarms smell fresh throughout the day. Underarm deodorant is not a replacement for showering. Keep your feet clean. Wearing dirty socks, or no socks at all, can cause your feet to smell bad. If you are wearing clean socks but still have a bad feet odor, concentrate on cleaning them when you shower or bathe and rotate which shoes you wear during the week. Make sure that your feet are completely dry before putting on socks and shoes. Putting talcum powder on your feet after you shower might make your feet smell better. Apply colognes or scented oils. If you are still struggling with body odor, you can try to cover the smell with a cologne or oil. Apply a spray of the cologne on your wrists and neck. When applying cologne, body spray, or oil, make sure you do so in moderation so that your scent isn't too strong. Stick to your daily hygiene routine. The best way to maintain good hygiene over a period is to make it a routine that you do every day. Alter your schedule so you are leaving enough time to take care of your hygiene. A simple morning routine would include waking up at 7 a.m. to brush your teeth, wash your face, and put on deodorant before going off to school. Once you get home you could take a shower at 6 p.m. and brush and floss your teeth right before bed. Pay attention to your skin and how much you sweat. Your body changes as you go through puberty and it means that different things are happening to you. As you go through puberty most people sweat more and their skin can get more oily. If you notice that you're sweating more, start applying underarm antiperspirant to reduce your sweating. If you notice that your face is oily, wash it more regularly with a facial soap meant for oily skin. Wash your hands regularly. Get into the habit of washing your hands after going to the bathroom, playing outside, or handling anything with bacteria. To prevent getting sick or spreading germs to the food you're eating, make sure to wash your hands before and after you eat as well. Consider carrying a bottle of hand sanitizer with you. Note that this does not replace proper hand washing!

Take a shower every day. Wash your hair regularly. Brush and floss your teeth every day. Clip your nails. Change your clothes daily. Apply underarm deodorant. Keep your feet clean. Apply colognes or scented oils. Stick to your daily hygiene routine. Pay attention to your skin and how much you sweat. Wash your hands regularly.

https://www.wikihow.com/Get-a-Secured-Credit-Card

How to Get a Secured Credit Card

To get a secured credit card, apply for one at a local bank or credit union either in person or online. For the application process, you'll need to provide your name, address, social security number, income, and employment information. If your application is approved, you'll need to make a deposit that acts as collateral for your line of credit. For example, if you deposit $500, you will have a $500 credit limit. Once you make your deposit, your account will be open and your card will be issued to you.

Find a secured credit card issuer. Not all banks issue secured credit cards, but many credit unions offer secured credit cards to their members. If you are a member of a credit union, then you may want to check with them first. Secured credit cards from credit unions often offer lower interest rates and do not have annual fees. If you are not a member of a credit union, you may be able to get one from your bank. Some major banks like Wells Fargo, Bank of America, and Capital One offer secured credit cards. Compare secured credit cards. Not all secured credit cards have the same terms. Some have high interest rates and others charge annual fees or other fees that eat away at your available credit limit. Major banks and credit unions offer lower interest rates and fees on secured credit cards and some even offer rewards. Avoid secured cards that charge high interest rates compared to other cards, or that come with annual and/or maintenance fees. The high interest and fees can cost you hundreds of dollars per year. Choose an issuer who reports to the three credit bureaus. If you are getting a secured credit card in order to build or improve your credit score , make sure you choose one that reports to the three credit bureaus. Otherwise, the secured credit card doesn't help you with your credit score. If you are applying online, read the card benefits page on the application website to find out whether the issuer reports to the credit reporting agencies. This is also the section that tells about interest rates, fees, required security deposit and credit line options. If you already have a secured card, you can tell if the issuer reports to the credit agencies by checking your credit report. Also, if you are receiving unsolicited offers for unsecured credit cards in the mail, chances are your credit score is improving. Some issuers report to the credit bureaus as “secured.” Having a card reported as “secured” does not lower your FICO credit score, but some credit reviewers may see it as a reason to deny you credit. However, if you have a good payment history, then having a secured credit card may have a positive effect on your credit score over time. Apply for a secured credit card. You can apply for a secured credit card in person at a local branch of your bank or credit union, but most major banks allow you to apply online as well. The card issuer will review your application to determine if you meet their requirements for approval. You will need to provide your: Name Address Social Security number Income Employment information Wait for approval. The approval process takes several days. Even though secured credit card companies cater to customers with credit problems, they may still look at your credit report to see if you have any unpaid debts. Increase your chances of getting approved by paying off any unpaid balances, even if they've been sent to collections. This will repair your credit enough to qualify for a secured card. You can be denied for a secured credit card if you do not meet all of the requirements for approval. For example, you will be denied if you do not have a bank account, if you do not have enough income to make the required initial deposit, or if your credit score is extremely low because of a long history of delinquent accounts or accounts in collections. Make a deposit. A secured credit card requires you to make a deposit that acts as collateral for your line of credit. In general, the amount of your deposit equals your credit limit. For example, if you deposit $500, you will have a credit limit of $500. The amount of your initial deposit will depend on the credit limit for which you are approved. You can make the deposit in person, online, or over the phone. You will need to provide your checking account number and your bank's routing number. Some issuers allow you to pay the deposit in installments. This is convenient if you don't have enough money to make the minimum deposit all at once. Once you make your security deposit, your account will be open and your card will be mailed to you. You should receive it in two to three weeks. Expect a low credit limit. Credit limits for secured credit cards are often low. For example, if you can only deposit $300 as collateral, then your credit limit may only be $300. Plan to use the secured credit card for small purchases and pay the balance off each month to start building better credit for yourself. Keep in mind that even if your credit limit is low, you can still use the card to build your credit. Rebuild your credit rating. The main reason you would want to get a secured credit card is to build your credit. Making regular monthly payments on your secured credit card will help to raise your credit score over time. If your credit is damaged due to a divorce, medical problem or loss of a job, a secured credit card offers you an opportunity to rebuild credit. If you have no credit history because you have never had a credit card in the past, a secured credit card allows you to establish a positive payment history, which builds your credit score. Work towards getting an unsecured card. Once you have established a pattern of paying on time, many secured credit card issuers will allow you to transfer to an unsecured credit card. This may take several months or a year. If your lender does not offer this benefit, consider applying for an unsecured credit card with the same lender. They may approve your credit card application because of your positive payment history with the secured card. When you graduate to an unsecured card, you get your deposit back. Some lenders will even have allowed your deposit to earn interest. In that case, you will get your deposit back plus interest. Try to pay your balance off every month. Some secured credit cards come with a high interest rate, which can make it hard to pay off your debt if you do not pay the balance off every month. If you do not pay your balance off each month, you may end up with hundreds of dollars in interest payments. Secured credit cards also often charge higher fees for late payments, returned checks, missed payments, or for going over your credit limit. Keep in mind that if you allow interest expenses and fees to build, you may not be able to pay off your debt and this can make your credit rating even worse. Enjoy the convenience of a credit card. Having a secured credit card allows you to make purchases that you would not be able to make with cash or a debit card. For example, hotels, airlines and car rental agencies require a credit card. You can also use your secured card to pay for unforeseen emergency expenses if you don't have enough cash.

Find a secured credit card issuer. Compare secured credit cards. Choose an issuer who reports to the three credit bureaus. Apply for a secured credit card. Wait for approval. Make a deposit. Expect a low credit limit. Rebuild your credit rating. Work towards getting an unsecured card. Try to pay your balance off every month. Enjoy the convenience of a credit card.

https://www.wikihow.com/Make-Pumpkin-Seeds-in-the-Oven

How to Make Pumpkin Seeds in the Oven

After you've cut up your pumpkin and removed the seeds, spread them out evenly on a baking sheet. Drizzle olive oil over the seeds to add flavor and help seasoning stick better. To make salt and vinegar seeds, sprinkle 1 teaspoon of salt and 2 to 3 tablespoons of balsamic vinegar over them. If you'd rather have a sesame ginger taste, cover the seeds with sesame oil, soy sauce, sugar, and ground ginger. To roast the seeds, place them in the oven for 15 minutes at 300 °F. If they're not golden brown, cook the seeds for another 5 minutes.

Purchase a cooking pumpkin. It's common for people to extract and roast the seeds from their Halloween pumpkins. While this is a fine option, there are pumpkins designed for consumption and commonly referred to as “cooking pumpkins.” These pumpkins are smaller than the large carving pumpkins used for Halloween decorations, and you may notice a minor difference in consistency and taste between the cooking and carving pumpkin seeds. Cut the top off of the pumpkin. Place the pumpkin on a durable cutting board and, using a sharp kitchen knife—such as a carving knife—cut the top off of the pumpkin. This will give you access to the pulpy middle of the gourd, which contains the seeds. Quarter the pumpkin. Once you've removed the top, use your carving knife to slice the pumpkin into four evenly sized quarters. Do this by setting the pumpkin upright (with the place where the stem would've been pointing upwards), and cutting straight down through the pumpkin. Once it's halved, repeat the process and cut each of the halves in half. If you're removing the seeds from a large carving pumpkin, you may not need to quarter the gourd. Carving pumpkins often have a large enough opening at the top to extract the pulp and seeds from. Scrape the pulp and seeds into a colander. Once the pumpkin has been quartered, grab a sturdy kitchen spoon and use it to scrape the stringy pulp (which contains the seeds) into a colander. You'll be able to tell where the pulp ends and the pumpkin wall begins, as the wall of the gourd is much sturdier than the pulp and does not contain any seeds. If you don't have a spoon sturdy enough for scooping out the pumpkin seeds, you can use an ice cream scoop. Separate the seeds from the pulp. You'll need to use your fingers for this: reach into the colander and remove the pumpkin seeds from the thick, sticky pumpkin pulp. You can discard the pumpkin pulp, and leave the seeds themselves in the colander. You should be able to extract about 1 cup (236 mL) of seeds from a pumpkin weighing 10–14 pounds (4.5–6.3 kg). Rinse the seeds in the sink. Once you've removed as much of the pulp as possible and are left with only seeds, take the colander to your sink and thoroughly rinse the seeds in cold water. This will remove lingering strings of pulp. Spread the seeds evenly on a baking sheet. Using your hands or a spoon and spatula, transfer the pumpkin seeds from the colander onto a clean baking sheet. Spread them out evenly so that as few seeds as possible are touching one another. Drizzle olive oil over the pumpkin seeds. Using a measuring spoon, pour about 1 teaspoon of olive oil over the pumpkin seeds. The oil will add flavor and allow seasonings to stick better to the seeds. If you'd rather not add additional flavorings to the seeds, you can place them in the oven at this point. If you'd like to flavor your pumpkin seeds, try one of the recipes given below. Make salt and vinegar seeds. This is one of the simpler methods to flavor your pumpkin seeds. Sprinkle 1 teaspoon of sea salt over your pumpkin seeds while they're on the baking sheet. Then pour 2–3 tablespoons of a balsamic vinegar over the seeds. The vinegar should all evaporate while the seeds bake, so that the roasted seeds will not be soggy or sitting in a puddle of vinegar. Add ranch flavoring to the seeds. If you'd like a more complex flavor than salt and vinegar, consider ranch. To achieve this, you'll need to add a handful of ingredients to your seeds while they're on the baking sheet and before they're placed in the oven. Top the seeds with 1–2 tablespoons of minced chives, 2 tablespoons of minced parsley, ¼ teaspoon salt, ¼ teaspoon garlic powder, and 1/8 teaspoon ground black pepper. If possible, purchase fresh chives and parsley to mince; these will add a better flavor to your pumpkin seeds. If you don't have access to fresh ingredients, you can use dried chives and parsley. Make sesame ginger flavored seeds. If you'd prefer a subtler flavor, you can create a sesame ginger flavored batch of pumpkin seeds by adding four ingredients. Pour 1 teaspoon of sesame oil over the seeds, followed by 2 tablespoons of soy sauce, 2 teaspoons of sugar, and 1 teaspoon of ground ginger. Once you've added the listed ingredients, stir your pumpkin seeds with your hands or a spoon so that the seeds are all evenly coated. Preheat the oven to 300°F (150°C). Do this this while you're placing ingredients and flavors onto the pumpkin seeds. This will give the oven time to heat sufficiently before you place the seeds inside. Bake for 15 to 20 minutes. Leave the seeds in the oven for the first 15 minutes, then inspect their progress: the seeds should be a golden color, but not yet turning dark brown or blackening around the edges. If the seeds still look uncooked and haven't begun to brown after 15 minutes in the oven, place them back in the oven for 5 more minutes. Let the seeds cool before eating. The seeds will be quite hot when you remove them from the oven, so don't dig in immediately. Let the seeds cool for at least 5 minutes before you grab a handful. In order to allow the seeds to cool more rapidly, and to prevent them from cooking further while still on the hot cooking sheet, use a spoon or spatula to transfer the seeds into a bowl or serving dish. Store the leftover seeds. If you have leftover roasted pumpkin seeds, you can place them in an airtight container, such as a Tupperware or a small plastic bag. Place the seeds in the refrigerator. They will stay edible in the fridge for up to 6 months. If you'd rather store the seeds for longer than 6 months, or if you made a large amount of pumpkin seeds, you could store the seeds in the freezer. There, they'll last for up to a year.

Purchase a cooking pumpkin. Cut the top off of the pumpkin. Quarter the pumpkin. Scrape the pulp and seeds into a colander. Separate the seeds from the pulp. Rinse the seeds in the sink. Spread the seeds evenly on a baking sheet. Drizzle olive oil over the pumpkin seeds. Make salt and vinegar seeds. Add ranch flavoring to the seeds. Make sesame ginger flavored seeds. Preheat the oven to 300°F (150°C). Bake for 15 to 20 minutes. Let the seeds cool before eating. Store the leftover seeds.

https://www.wikihow.com/Play-Pool-Like-a-Pro

How to Play Pool Like a Pro

If you want to play pool like a pro, make sure you're holding the cue parallel to the table for better control. Before taking your shot, practice your stroke a few times before actually hitting the cue ball. When you do strike the ball, accelerate gradually to give you more control and momentum. After your shot, stay down so that you can see the angle and direction it took and make adjustments next time.

Check your hand position. Hold the thick end of the cue in your dominant hand with your palm facing upward. Find the spot on the wrap where the cue evenly balances. Grip your cue about 1" behind that spot. Make a circle with the thumb and index finger of your non-dominant hand. Put the cue through the circle and rest it on the top of your middle finger, behind the knuckle. Spread out your "pinky", ring and middle finger tips to create a tripod-like support. Place the ridge of your hand should on the table. Lift the other side of your hand a bit higher. Assume the proper stance. Place the foot that is on the same side as your non-dominant hand in front. Position your other foot about 2 feet (60 cm) behind the front foot. Turn your body slightly away from the table so that it doesn't interfere with the shot. Position yourself close to the table but not too close to it. You want to lean into the shots a bit for more control. Proper form requires the cue stick to be directly below your chin during a stroke. If you compare the form of a professional pool player with that of a novice pool player, the professional player will always keep their head down also known as "being down on the ball" with the cue directly below his or her chin during the stroke. Chalk the cue tip before every shot as though you're brushing the chalk on with a paintbrush. Avoid twisting the chalk on top of the cue. Hold your cue parallel to the table for maximum control. Accelerate gradually as you approach the ball. Imagine that you are moving your arm through the water in a swimming pool instead of hitting the ball with a quick strike. A longer stroke imparts more momentum to the ball. Keep your follow-through straight and relaxed. The cue should continue on its course and almost hit the table ahead of the ball's starting position. Your cue shouldn't slow down until the tip has actually hit the ball. Stay down after the shot. This position allows you to analyze the angle of the ball and the direction of every other ball that it strikes. It also ensures that you don't cause the shot to deviate by accidentally introducing a jumpy motion. Practice your stroke without actually striking balls until it feels comfortable. Imagine an invisible ball next to the ball that you want to sink into the pocket. Place your cue above the target. Angle the cue so that it creates a parallel line from right above the cue ball to the target. Back your cue up and place the tip on the table where the center of the invisible ball (the one you imagined next to the real ball) would be. Maintain the angle that you just made when you lined up the ball and the pocket. Keep the cue tip on the table. Pull the rest of the cue around to the right or left until the cue is positioned over the white ball. You now have the angle at which you need to hit the white ball to sink the other ball. Set your shot up at the angle you just calculated. Strike the center of the white ball so that it makes contact with the other ball. Start playing with your non-dominant hand all the time until a little after the time you become ambidextrous. It will make you less likely to win the current game but more likely to win future games. Sometimes in pool, you get a shot that would be an awkward angle with your dominant hand, but your non-dominant hand will gain skill faster for those awkward shots if you play with your non-dominant hand all the time than if you just do it for those shots. In fact, skill transfers somewhat from one task to another task to your non-dominant hand will gain skill for pool faster if you you do everything with your non-dominant hand than if you just play pool with your non-dominant hand like in other activities. Feel the wrap or butt of the cue. Choose a larger wrap if you have large hands and a smaller wrap if you have small hands. The most important point is to find a wrap that feels good in your hands. If your hands sweat, choose a cue wrapped in Irish linen for absorption. Otherwise, choose a leather wrap or a cue with no wrap. Check the shaft. Most shafts have a diameter of 12mm to 13mm. While 13mm is the most commonly selected size, a smaller shaft can make the bridge position more comfortable for people with smaller hands. Measure the pro taper. The shaft maintains its diameter for 10" to 15" before it starts to taper toward the cue. A shorter taper gives you a firmer hit. Know the cue weight. Most players choose a weight between 19 and 20 ounces. Check cue length. Most cues are 57" or 58" long, but you can special order different lengths. Pick your cue tip. Cue tips are made of leather and generally rated medium to hard. A tip that will wear well gives you better control of the ball. Make sure no parts are loose. Any loose parts will absorb the energy from your shots and will hamper your ability to strike the ball well.

Check your hand position. Assume the proper stance. Chalk the cue tip before every shot as though you're brushing the chalk on with a paintbrush. Hold your cue parallel to the table for maximum control. Accelerate gradually as you approach the ball. Keep your follow-through straight and relaxed. Stay down after the shot. Practice your stroke without actually striking balls until it feels comfortable. Imagine an invisible ball next to the ball that you want to sink into the pocket. Place your cue above the target. Back your cue up and place the tip on the table where the center of the invisible ball (the one you imagined next to the real ball) would be. Keep the cue tip on the table. Set your shot up at the angle you just calculated. Start playing with your non-dominant hand all the time until a little after the time you become ambidextrous. Feel the wrap or butt of the cue. Check the shaft. Measure the pro taper. Know the cue weight. Check cue length. Pick your cue tip. Make sure no parts are loose.

https://www.wikihow.com/Use-the-Word-%22Only%22-Correctly

How to Use the Word "Only" Correctly

To use the word “only” correctly, place it directly before or after the noun, subject, or verb to make the meaning clear. For example, if you're trying to say that someone ate 4 strawberries, you can say, “She ate only 4 strawberries.” On the other hand, if you want to say that someone ate strawberries and nothing else, you would say "She only ate 4 strawberries." Additionally, you can use “only” in front of a subject, like “Only I,” or “Only John” to show that they're the sole person performing the action.

Keep in mind that "only" is a modifier. This means that it helps explain what you are trying to say and acts as a descriptive word in your sentence. "Only" can have a strong presence in a sentence and can change the meaning of the sentence if it's used in the wrong place. To create a clear sentence, you should place "only" next to the noun, verb, or phrase you are trying to modify. When the word "only" is placed incorrectly in a sentence, it becomes a "misplaced modifier". This means the modifier ("only") is not placed beside the noun or other word it is meant to modify. This can create confusion for the listener or reader, because the sentence becomes awkward, even misleading. Be aware of the casual use of "only". You may notice that in everyday speech people tend to place "only" in the wrong place in a sentence, thus conveying nothing more than a general sense of what they are trying to say. As with certain other grammatical rules, it can feel awkward to use proper placement of a modifier in a casual conversation. Sometimes you won't need to use "only" correctly for your listeners to understand what you mean. It's important, however, to use the correct placement of "only" when writing a formal letter, a paper, or something for public consumption to ensure you do not confuse your reader. Notice the common misplacement of "only" in everyday speech. When we are talking informally we might use "only" to indicate that someone did just one thing. For example: "She only ate strawberries for dinner". In this sentence the speaker probably means to say that she had strawberries for dinner and nothing else. The speaker is trying to modify "strawberries" when, in fact, "only" is placed in front of (and thus modifies) the verb "ate". This implies that the subject in the sentence, "she", does nothing with the strawberries but eat them for dinner. She doesn't pick them. She doesn't prepare them. She just eats them. The correct placement of "only" in this sentence, based on the probable intended meaning, is: "She ate only strawberries for dinner". The modifier "only" is next to the noun it's meant to modify and is now grammatically correct. At first, it can feel awkward to say this sentence out loud, because sentences like this are so often misspoken or miswritten. However, once you realize that the wrong sentence construction doesn't mean what you want it to mean, the correctly constructed sentence will start to feel more comfortable. Create examples of the different ways to use "only" in a sentence. The best way to get a sense of the proper use of the word "only" is to make your own "practice" sentences and note what "only" is modifying in each case. For example, consider these six different placements of "only" in the same sentence: "Only I like dancing at a party". "I only like dancing at a party". "I like only dancing at a party". "I like dancing only at a party". "I like dancing at only a party". "I like dancing at a party only". Use "only" in front of a subject to modify the subject. For example: "Only I like dancing at a party". In this sentence, "only" is modifying the subject "I". You are saying that you ("I") are the only person who likes to dance at a party. You could view this sentence another way: "Only John danced at the party". In this construction no one but John danced at the party. If this is the intended meaning, that John was the only dancer at the party, you would place "only" at the beginning of the sentence so that it modifies "John". Place "only" before the verb in a sentence to modify the verb. For example: "I only like dancing at a party". In this sentence, "only" is modifying the verb "like". This sentence is saying that "I" is doing nothing other than liking dancing at a party. "I" isn't praising, criticizing or ignoring dancing at a party, s/he is simply liking it. Using "only" to modify a verb is less common than using it to modify a noun or pronoun. The third "practice" sentence above -- "I like only dancing at a party" -- means that the person likes dancing and no other activities (talking, eating, etc) at a party. In the fourth sentence above, "only" could be seen as modifying "dancing" or "at a party". Because the distinction could be important, in speech you would have the option of orally stressing the word or words being modified. In the fifth sentence above, "only" modifies "a party", meaning no other location or event. This is a clearer usage than the fourth sentence. The final sentence above places "only" after "party". It more clearly expresses the same meaning as the previous sentence. You could look at these placements in a different situation or setting. For example: "John only cooks meat for his family". This sentence works if John is a vegetarian and does not buy, prepare, or eat meat. But when he is with his family, who are diehard meat-eaters, he will cook meat for them. In this case, the modifier is correctly placed, as the sentence indicates that John will cook meat for his family but not do anything else with the meat. Use "only" in front of a second verb in a sentence to modify the second verb. For example: "I like only dancing at a party". In this sentence, "only" is modifying "dancing". ("Dancing" in this case is a verb form known as a gerund, which acts as a noun.) This means that "I" like only one thing at a party -- dancing -- not talking, singing, chatting, or drinking. The use of "only" works better in a sentence that indicates the speaker does just one thing in a certain situation. For example: "I eat only vegetables". This sentence means that you consume vegetables but no meat or other food products. "I only eat vegetables," on the other hand, means that you do nothing with vegetables except eat them. While the above is academically true, so many people say, "I only eat..." when they mean, "I eat only..." -- or similar phrases -- it has become common and easily understood usage. Place "only" in front of the ending phrase in a sentence to modify the phrase. For example: "I like dancing only at a party". In this example, "only" is modifying "at a party". This indicates that the speaker likes to dance when s/he is at a party and that s/he does not dance at any other time or place. You can look at this use of "only" another way: "John drinks scotch only with his dad". This sentence means that John drinks scotch with his dad and with no one else. Adjust your use of "only" in your writing. Now that you have looked at the four different ways "only" can be used in a sentence, notice how you use "only" in your next essay, letter, or conversation. Remember to place "only" next to (usually in front of) the item you want to modify, so your meaning is not confusing or awkward for your reader or listener. Review the above examples to determine which placement of "only" best expresses your intended meaning. Try searching your document (if it is on a word processor) for the word "only". Check that you are using the word correctly in each sentence. Adjust the placement of "only" if it causes a sentence's meaning to be unclear.

Keep in mind that "only" is a modifier. Be aware of the casual use of "only". Notice the common misplacement of "only" in everyday speech. Create examples of the different ways to use "only" in a sentence. Use "only" in front of a subject to modify the subject. Place "only" before the verb in a sentence to modify the verb. Use "only" in front of a second verb in a sentence to modify the second verb. Place "only" in front of the ending phrase in a sentence to modify the phrase. Adjust your use of "only" in your writing. Try searching your document (if it is on a word processor) for the word "only".

https://www.wikihow.com/Make-Oobleck-Without-Cornstarch

How to Make Oobleck Without Cornstarch

To make oobleck without cornstarch, mix together 1 part room-temperature water with 2 parts arrowroot or tapioca powder. You can also use baby powder if cornstarch is listed as an ingredient, or you can try using potato starch. Or, if you have some cornflour on hand, you can mix it with equal parts hot water to make oobleck.

Pour 1½ to 2 cups (190 to 250 g) of your powder into a large bowl. Arrowroot powder and tapioca powder are both popular substitutes for cornstarch when it comes to cooking. When it comes to oobleck, you can use them in the exact same way as cornstarch without any modifications. You can try baby powder, but it must have cornstarch in it. Read the ingredient label to make sure. You can also try potato starch, but don't use baking soda or flour. Baking soda will just fizz while flour will turn into paste. Add 1 cup (240 mL) of room-temperature water. Don't worry too much about the amounts just yet. As long as the proportions are similar, you should be good. Remember, you can always make adjustments later. The original recipe calls for 2 parts cornstarch and 1 part water. Arrowroot powder, tapioca powder, and potato starch are all direct substitutions. To make your oobleck look more interesting, add some food coloring into the water. Start with 2 to 3 drops, then add more until you get the color you want. Mix the oobleck with your hands or a rubber spatula. Either will work just fine. If you don't have a spatula and don't want to get your hands messy, pull on a pair of plastic gloves first. Mix the oobleck until the ingredients combine. At this point, it should start behaving like a non-Newtonian fluid. Add more powder or water, if needed. This is mostly up to your preferences. Ideally, oobleck should flow like water when left alone, but act like a solid when pressure is applied to it. If it isn't quite to your liking, try the following: If the oobleck is too watery, add more powder. If the oobleck is too hard, add more water. Store the oobleck in a sealed container when you aren't playing with it. A plastic box, jar, or zippered baggie will work just fine. Keep in mind that oobleck will eventually dry out after a couple of days. You may be able to bring it back by adding some warm water to it, however. Discard the oobleck into the trash, not the sink. If you toss the oobleck into the sink, it will clog the drains. Instead, put it into a plastic, zippered baggie. Zip the bag shut, then toss the bag into the trash. You should still do this even for dried out oobleck. This is because it can get rehydrated in the drain the next time you turn on the water. Place 16 ounces (450 g) of cornflour into a large bowl. Make sure that the bowl is large enough to hold 16 ounces (475 mL) of water as well. You will be mixing everything in this bowl. Use a kitchen scale to measure out your cornflour. Cornflour is essentially the same thing as cornstarch, but with a different name. There are some differences, however, in terms of amounts and water temperature. Make sure that you get cornflour and not corn flour. Cornflour is more powdery than corn flour, which is grainy, like corn meal. Stir some food coloring into 16 ounces (475 mL) of hot water, if desired. You don't have to do this, but it will make your oobleck look more interesting. How much food coloring you use is up to you; the more you use, the darker the color will be. Start with just 2 to 3 drops, then give the water a stir. If it's not dark enough for you, add more food coloring. If you skip this step, the oobleck will be white. This is perfectly fine if that's what you want. Pour the water into the cornflour. Here is where the biggest difference between cornstarch and cornflour occurs. With cornstarch, you want to use half the amount of water as your cornstarch. With corn flour however, you want to use the same amount of water. The water should be hot, unlike for cornstarch. Mix the water and cornflour with your hands or rubber spatula. Keep mixing the ingredients until they come together and the oobleck feels like honey. If you are using your hands and added food coloring, it might be a good idea to wear plastic gloves. Food coloring can stain skin, so the plastic gloves will help keep your hands clean. Add more water or cornflour, if desired. This is really up to you depending on how thick or thin you want the oobleck to be. If you want the oobleck to be thicker, add more cornflour. If you want it to be thinner, add more water. Be sure to mix the oobleck well after each addition. Keep the oobleck in a sealed container when you're done playing with it. Plastic, zippered baggies, containers, or jars will all work just find for this. Keep in mind that the oobleck may still dry out after a couple of days. If that happens, add some warm water to it; this may bring it back. Place the oobleck into a plastic bag before throwing it away. Never toss oobleck into the sink as this can clog the drain. Instead, put it into a plastic, zippered bag, then throw the bag into the trash. Don't toss dried oobleck down the drain either. The next time you use the sink, the oobleck might get rehydrated and clog the drain.

Pour 1½ to 2 cups (190 to 250 g) of your powder into a large bowl. Add 1 cup (240 mL) of room-temperature water. Mix the oobleck with your hands or a rubber spatula. Add more powder or water, if needed. Store the oobleck in a sealed container when you aren't playing with it. Discard the oobleck into the trash, not the sink. Place 16 ounces (450 g) of cornflour into a large bowl. Stir some food coloring into 16 ounces (475 mL) of hot water, if desired. Pour the water into the cornflour. Mix the water and cornflour with your hands or rubber spatula. Add more water or cornflour, if desired. Keep the oobleck in a sealed container when you're done playing with it. Place the oobleck into a plastic bag before throwing it away.

https://www.wikihow.com/Enjoy-the-Moment

How to Enjoy the Moment

To enjoy the moment, focus your attention on your surrounding environment, like any sounds you hear or the way your feet feel on the ground. You can also focus on your breathing, feeling your stomach rise and fall with each breath, to help you feel more present. If you notice yourself stressing out about the future or worrying about the past, let go of those thoughts without judgment and redirect your attention to what's in front of you. Also, try to eliminate potential distractions by putting away electronic devices so you're not interrupted.

Be present in the moment. Think about how much time you've wasted through the years by dwelling on things you can't change from the past, or worrying about things you can't predict or alter in the future. It can cause you a lot of stress and anxiety when you get lost in that way of thinking, especially when you recognize how powerless you are to alter the past or future. The only thing you can change is this present moment right now, and it starts with being mindful of where you are, what you're doing, and what is happening around you. Observe what is happening around you without judgment. Simply notice your environment and any events unfolding around you. Try to describe (in your head, or out loud) your surroundings or any events happening in your immediate environment. Focus on concrete, observable sensory information. Notice how you fit in with your environment. As you breathe in the air around you, walk across the ground, or sit quietly, recognize without judgment that you are temporarily a part of this place. Eliminate distractions. There are many things that might distract you from enjoying a moment. In addition to the countless thoughts running through your head, you might easily become distracted by your electronic device(s). Incoming text messages, phone calls, emails, and social media updates can all distract you from whatever you're trying to do. Whether you want to spend quality time with others, or simply sit alone in a calm environment, your cellphone (or your friends' phones) can quickly ruin the moment. Personal devices like cellphones and tablets can distract you from a moment, whether it's a moment spent alone or with others. Try scheduling your device usage, making time for device-free activities, or simply turning your phone off when you're trying to enjoy a moment alone or with others. Focus on your breathing. You take countless breaths every day without even thinking about it, but actively concentrating on your breathing can help you live more consciously and mindfully. Focusing on your breath has been shown to help calm an anxious mind and return your attention to the present moment, which is a vital part of living mindfully. Concentrate on the sensation of air flowing in through your nostrils and back out. Notice the way your breath feels on your nostrils, in your chest, and all the way down to your diaphragm (below your ribcage). Feel your belly rise and fall with each slow, deep breath. Any time your attention starts to drift to other thoughts, simply return your focus to the sensation and experience of breathing mindfully. Ignore fleeting thoughts. It's easy to feel as though your thoughts are in control, especially during a crisis or moments of anxiety. But it's important to remember during these moments that you have the power to decide whether or not to engage with a given thought. With practice and mindfulness, you can eventually observe your thoughts and choose whether to dwell in those thoughts or let them pass you by. An important component of mindfulness is accepting your thoughts as they are, without judging them, holding onto them, or resisting them. Remember that your thoughts are immaterial. They only gain meaning when you give them meaning. Do not try to push unpleasant thoughts away, as this may only make your mind dwell on the discomfort of that thought. Similarly, do not try to grasp at pleasant thoughts. Imagine each thought that drifts into your mind like clouds floating across the sky. If you do not like a particular thought, simply wait without engaging it and it will slowly pass by and drift away. Let go of the past. It can be very easy to get lost in memories. There's nothing wrong with enjoying your past success or learning from your past mistakes - in fact, you actually should do those things. But dwelling on things that are no longer around or relevant, or obsessing about things you can't do anything about (like wishing you'd said/done something differently) will only cause you stress and anxiety. It's important to recognize that there is nothing you can do in the present moment that can alter the past. Once you accept that you cannot change the past, you begin to take away its power over you. Think to yourself, "I cannot change the past, so what good will it do to worry about it?" Even though you cannot do anything to alter the past, you do have the option of controlling the present. By living mindfully, you determine how to live in this very moment. Avoid thinking about the future. You might be thinking about the future in anticipation (like waiting for the weekend) or in dread (like contemplating how bad Monday will be when your weekend is over). It's good to be motivated by your ambitions for the future, but dwelling on the future in any way makes you lose track of the present. It can make fun times go by more quickly, or it can fill you with a sense of dread as you anticipate things that you can't control in this moment. When you think about the future, you forfeit your ability to fully be present in this very moment. Avoid looking at your watch, checking your cellphone, or anticipating anything that isn't relevant to what you're doing right now. Instead of getting caught up in what might/will happen, practice mindfulness and work to be present in this very moment. In this very moment you can decide how to act, what to say, which thoughts to engage with, and what mindset you will hold on to. These choices will affect your future, so it's important to make the most of what you can do in the here and now. Practice acceptance. You may be tempted to force some type of evaluation on the present moment. Perhaps you're thinking about how much better this moment is than a moment last week, or you might be thinking this moment would be made better if some other factor were different. However, these types of evaluations can hamper your ability to mindfully enjoy the present moment as it is. Instead, work to accept every moment, and let thoughts or emotions exist without imposing values or judgments. Resist the urge to judge. Any kind of value statement/thought can be a judgment, even considering something "cool" or "fun" or "beautiful". Judgments extend beyond people and places. You may be judging the situation you're in, the weather you're exposed to, or even the thoughts running through your head. Mindfulness requires you to work at accepting things as they are without imposing value or judgment on them. This takes work, but once you are able to accept things in the present moment you will feel much more at peace. Any time you find yourself judging someone or something, try to catch yourself and stop yourself in mid-thought. Think to yourself, "I will let this pass without judgment," and try to let go of that thought. Try to recognize that enjoying this moment as it is, without judgment or desire, will make it that much more meaningful to you. That meaning will stay with you as a strong, positive memory of the present moment. Meditate. The basic goal of most meditations is to focus on the present moment without distraction or disturbance. This may sound easy in theory, but it can take a lot of work to cultivate a mindful meditation practice. However, any effort you put into meditating will reward you with a sense of calmness and an enhanced perspective of the present. Choose whether to meditate while sitting comfortably or while walking slowly through a peaceful environment. Focus on your breath. Take deep breaths down into your diaphragm, feeling your belly rise and fall with each breath. Scan your body and notice any physical sensations you're experiencing. You might feel the air moving through your nostrils, the sensation of the floor underneath you, a sense of calm, or even a sense of fear/anxiety. Do not judge the sensations you notice, and do not try to hold on to them. Simply acknowledge their existence and let go of them. Any time a thought enters your head, do not force it away or cling to it. Much like the sensations you noticed, you should acknowledge that thought's existence and simply let it go. Any time you lose focus or become distracted, return to your breathing and focus on the sensation of each breath. Focus on your senses. Your brain has a seemingly endless river of thoughts rushing through it at any given moment. These thoughts help you most of the time, but they can be distracting or even damaging. The best way to quiet your mind is to focus on what's observable. Take note of concrete, tangible sensory information, and force your mind to dwell on the sights, sounds, smells, tastes, and physical sensations of your environment. Look around you and notice the intricate arrangement of the world around you. Let yourself listen to the sounds of your environment. If you are in a noisy area, like a crowded coffee shop, try to listen to the steady hum of all the voices together instead of trying to single out individual sounds. Feel the chair/couch/floor under your bottom, and take note of the ways your legs and rear end feel against that surface. Notice the way your feet touch the floor, the way your hands rest on your lap or on the arm rests at your sides. Don't force yourself to appreciate the things around you. If you are fully present, you will become aware of everything in your immediate environment. As you observe your surroundings with your senses, resist the urge to evaluate them. Think of them as simply "being," rather than as being good or bad. Try to appreciate the little things. You may be tempted to think of your life as a series of big events, and those events are important. But don't forget that your life is also composed of countless little moments, which are available to you every day. One of the easiest ways to enjoy a moment is to mindfully engage with that moment and appreciate it for what it is. You can do this in countless little ways each day to bring greater meaning and peace to every moment. Slow down each day to appreciate the way things look, sound, taste, smell, and feel. When you shower, notice the sensation of rubbing shampoo into your hair or soap on your body. Every time you eat, slow down and notice your food: the way it looks, smells, tastes. Chew slowly and think about how much water, sunlight, and farm work went into creating that meal. Engage with each moment fully, and eventually you will learn to enjoy and appreciate every aspect of every moment. Learn to see other perspectives. If you're upset about something that a friend, relative, or colleague said/did, that frustration can quickly ruin an otherwise enjoyable moment. It's easy to feel angry with others when you view that person's actions from your own point of view, but it's worth considering that his/her choice made sense to that individual. When you feel yourself becoming upset with another person, take a moment to step back. Force yourself to think of three positive reasons that someone might have said/done the thing that upset you. Focus on positive reasons - don't say things like, "He did it to upset me," or "He doesn't know what he's doing." As you come up with positive reasons, work to see the situation from that individual's perspective. He or she probably had a rational reason for the behavior at hand, which you might be blind to because you're locked in your own perspective. Learning to see things from other people's perspectives can help you see situations more objectively, making you more calm and in the moment. It can also help you become a more understanding, empathetic individual.

Be present in the moment. Eliminate distractions. Focus on your breathing. Ignore fleeting thoughts. Let go of the past. Avoid thinking about the future. Practice acceptance. Meditate. Focus on your senses. Try to appreciate the little things. Learn to see other perspectives.

https://www.wikihow.com/Draw-Minnie-Mouse

How to Draw Minnie Mouse

To draw Minnie Mouse's face, start with a circle and a crossed line at the center. Next, draw a small circle on either side of the big circle for her ears. For the nose, make an oblong shape and add a horizontal curved line on top. On top of the curved line, sketch 2 oblongs for the eyes and 2 dots inside them for the pupils. Add 3 curved lines on top of each eye for lashes, then draw a long line for Minnie's mouth. Finally, draw her tongue using an "M" shape before coloring in your picture.

Draw a circle. Add a crossed line at the center. Draw two small circles positioned on each side of the head for the ears. Draw the nose using an oblong. Add a horizontal curved line on top of the nose. Sketch two small oblongs for the eyes on top of the curved line. Add small circles for the pupils. Sketch three curved lines on top of each eye for the eyelashes. Sketch a long curved line for the mouth, and another curve to make it look like Minnie is smiling. Draw the tongue using an M shape. Draw the shape of Minnie’s face, the cheeks are slightly protruding. Add a ribbon on top of her head. Finalize lines from your outline. Color your drawing. Draw a circle for the head. Add another small circle below and connect the two circles with a stretched curved line. Add the ears using two circles on each side. Draw a crossed line across the face to help you draw details later. Draw Minnie’s hands and feet. Note that Minnie is wearing gloves. Sketch the face, she has oblong eyes with long lashes. Her nose is protruding and has a rounded tip. Draw the mouth. Since she is facing the side, sketch the mouth on the left end on the nose using a curved line. Draw the shape of Minnie’s face, the cheeks are slightly protruding. Draw details to her dress and shoes. Don't forget to add her ribbon on top of the head. Erase unnecessary lines. Color your drawing. Draw a circle on your sheet of paper. Add a horizontal and a vertical line Draw her nose. It's an oval, sitting below the horizontal line. the draw a line that follows the curves. Draw the eyes. Draw a happy smile. Then draw the chin. It follows the same curve as her open mouth. Add curved lines around the area of her eyes. Draw an oval on her head. Draw her ribbon. If you don't know how, imagine it was a butterfly. Draw curved lines around the area of her cheeks. Add missing lines to her ribbon. Draw her ears, her lashes and her tongue. Clean up your drawing. Finished.

Draw a circle. Draw two small circles positioned on each side of the head for the ears. Draw the nose using an oblong. Sketch two small oblongs for the eyes on top of the curved line. Sketch a long curved line for the mouth, and another curve to make it look like Minnie is smiling. Draw the shape of Minnie’s face, the cheeks are slightly protruding. Add a ribbon on top of her head. Finalize lines from your outline. Color your drawing. Draw a circle for the head. Add the ears using two circles on each side. Draw Minnie’s hands and feet. Sketch the face, she has oblong eyes with long lashes. Draw the mouth. Draw the shape of Minnie’s face, the cheeks are slightly protruding. Draw details to her dress and shoes. Erase unnecessary lines. Color your drawing. Draw a circle on your sheet of paper. Draw her nose. Draw the eyes. Draw a happy smile. Add curved lines around the area of her eyes. Draw curved lines around the area of her cheeks. Draw her ears, her lashes and her tongue. Clean up your drawing. Finished.

https://www.wikihow.com/Blanch-Almonds

How to Blanch Almonds

To blanch almonds, first bring a pot of water to a boil. Put the almonds in a heat-safe bowl while the water is heating up. Then, pour the boiling water into the bowl so the almonds are covered, and let the almonds sit for 1 minute. The hot water will soften the almonds' outer skins. Strain the almonds and rinse them with cold water. Finally, use your fingers to pinch the almonds one at a time so they slip out of their papery skins.

Use raw almonds. Make sure the almonds are completely plain - they shouldn't be roasted, oiled, or salted. . Bring a small pot of water to the boil Once boiled, take the saucepan off the heat and place on a hot pad. Place the almonds in the boiled water for exactly one minute. If you leave the almonds in the water any longer they will lose their crispness. Drain off the hot water and rinse the almonds. Drain the almonds using a colander or strainer and rinse well under cold water until they are cool enough to handle. Dab the almonds dry. Use a little paper towel to dab off any excess moisture. The skin of the almonds should look slightly wrinkled. Carefully pinch off the skins. Grip each almond between your thumb and index finger and pinch. The almond should slide right out of its skin. You can prevent the almond from flying across the room by using your opposite hand to form a shield and catch the slippery little almond! Sometimes the skin won't come off so easily and you'll have to you your thumbnail to scrape off any remaining skin. Leave to dry. Depending on the recipe you're using, you may need to leave the blanched almonds to dry. If this is the case, simply lay them on a baking sheet for a few days, shaking the pan to turn them occasionally. Avoid drying the almonds in the oven, as this will end up roasting the nuts, which is not what you want. Finished.

Use raw almonds. . Place the almonds in the boiled water for exactly one minute. Drain off the hot water and rinse the almonds. Dab the almonds dry. Carefully pinch off the skins. Leave to dry. Finished.

https://www.wikihow.com/Vacuum-Seal

How to Vacuum Seal

To vacuum seal food, place your food in a vacuum bag and fold the top over. Open the sealer's lid, then place the bag's fold into the sealer and close the lid. Once you hear the lock, which sounds like a click, press the vacuum seal button. If your sealer doesn't have a vacuum seal button, press the vacuum button first. Once all the air is sucked out, then press the seal button. For liquids, press the seal button when you start to see liquid move up the bag.

Blanch veggies before packing and freezing them. You'll better preserve their flavor and nutritional value if you blanch your veggies before packing and freezing them. Place veggies in a large pot of boiling water, cover them, and heat them for three to four minutes. Use a slotted spoon to transfer them from the pot to a bowl of ice water. Pat the vegetables dry after their ice bath. Pat dry or season meats before vacuum sealing. If you're vacuum sealing a piece of meat without seasoning it, just pat it dry with a paper towel before placing it into the vacuum bag. If you prefer, before packing up your meat, you can infuse it with flavor by mixing seasonings or a marinade. For example, pack up a piece of salmon with salt, pepper, dill, and a slice of lemon to infuse the fish with these flavors. Or you can vacuum seal pre-seasoned meat, like beef or deer jerky , to lock in both flavor and freshness. Place the item in a vacuum bag with the top folded. When you've prepared your food for packing, place it into a vacuum bag large enough to fit the item with some room to spare. Fold the edges of the bag's opening over so your food doesn't make a mess as you place it into the bag. Make sure there's one to two inches (three to five centimeters) between the food item and side of the bag that you're sealing. That way, you'll have room to lock the sealer's lid over the bag's opening. Some vacuum seal bags have a maximum fill line, so check your product for a line near its opening. Use your sealer to make vacuum bags. You can make vacuum bags by placing two equally sized plastic sheets on top of each other. Place one side of the plastic sheets into the vacuum sealer and press the Seal Only button to heat seal the sheets' edges together. Repeat the process to create heat seals on three sides, leaving one side open for you to pack the item you want to vacuum seal. Lock the bag into the sealer and press the vacuum seal button. Open the sealer lid, position the bag's opening at the vacuum mouth, then close the sealer lid and listen for a click that indicates it's locked. Once it's locked, press the Vacuum Seal button to activate the appliance and compress the bag. Sealers usually have one button to vacuum and automatically seal and another just for sealing. Check your user manual for specific information about how your device's controls are labeled. Seal bags that contain liquid manually. To seal bags with liquid, watch the bag after you've pressed Vacuum Seal. Press the Seal Only button when you start to see liquid move up the bag. After sucking out the last bit of air, the vacuum will start pulling the liquid out, so you should use the Seal Only option to manually seal the bag. To pack items without liquid, you can just press the Vacuum Seal button and let the device seal your bag automatically. Pack your items into a storage bag without overfilling it. Note the maximum fill line on your vacuum seal storage bags, and avoid overfilling them to keep them in the best shape. Your packed items should be dry, and you should avoid vacuum sealing objects with sharp corners or hard ridges. Use the zip slider to seal the bag. After filling your storage bag, take the zip slider firmly between your thumb and index finger. Run it down the length of the bag's opening at least twice. Then check the ziplock seal with your fingers to ensure the bag is correctly sealed. Open the valve and place your vacuum hose over it. After sealing the bag, locate the valve and remove the top cap. Place your vacuum hose directly over the valve. Turn the vacuum on, and watch as it starts to suck the air out of the storage bag. Close the valve cap after you've finished vacuuming it. Once you've vacuumed out as much air as possible, your clothing, blankets, or other sealed item should have reduced in size by about half. Pop the cap back over the valve, put the vacuum away, and store your vacuum sealed bag in a safe place. Avoid storing a bag in a hot place or just throwing it in the closet. It might get damaged in high temperatures or if it accidentally hits a sharp object. Use a straw to suck out air from a storage bag. Place the item you're storing in a ziplock bag, then put a straw into the bag. Seal the bag, leaving only room for the straw to protrude from the opening, then suck the air out of the bag through the straw. When the plastic squeezes around the item you're storing, quickly pull the straw out of the bag and seal it completely. Try submerging a storage bag in water to flush out air. Place the item you want to store in a ziplock bag, and seal the bag up to about an inch (two or three centimeters) from one edge. Submerge the bag in a large pot of water until only the unsealed corner sticks out of the water. Pinch the corner closed when the water forces most of the air from the ziplock bag. The pressure from the water will force air out of the plastic bag. It's not as tight as a vacuum seal, but it's an easy way to remove air before freezing food. Use the double bag method to vacuum seal. Place the item you want to store in a ziplock bag, close the ziplock seal, but leave a corner of the bag unsealed. Place that bag into a larger ziplock bag. Insert a vacuum hose into the larger bag, then seal the larger bag around the vacuum hose. Turn the vacuum on to suck out air from the bags. When it seems like all the air's been sucked out of the inner bag, finish closing the corner of its ziplock seal you left open. Turn the vacuum off, open the larger bag, and take out the inner bag, which should be effectively vacuum sealed. You can set aside the outer bag for future use. You only needed it to lock around the vacuum hose and suck air out of the inner bag.

Blanch veggies before packing and freezing them. Pat dry or season meats before vacuum sealing. Place the item in a vacuum bag with the top folded. Use your sealer to make vacuum bags. Lock the bag into the sealer and press the vacuum seal button. Seal bags that contain liquid manually. Pack your items into a storage bag without overfilling it. Use the zip slider to seal the bag. Open the valve and place your vacuum hose over it. Close the valve cap after you've finished vacuuming it. Use a straw to suck out air from a storage bag. Try submerging a storage bag in water to flush out air. Use the double bag method to vacuum seal.

https://www.wikihow.com/Keep-Warm-in-Bed

How to Keep Warm in Bed

To keep warm in bed, start by putting on a pair of flannel pajamas that fit loosely. Then, put on a pair of socks to keep heat from escaping through your feet. In bed, wrap yourself in thick sheets and blankets made of fabrics like flannel, wool, fleece, or silk, which hold heat. Then, add insulation to your head by putting on a hat or piling pillows around your head. If you're still cold, try bringing a hot water bottle into bed with you to act as a heat source, or invest in an electric blanket to keep you toasty!

Wear flannel pajamas. When it's cold out, it's time to switch up your night clothes. Swap out cotton for some flannel pajamas. You can buy flannel tops and bottoms, as well as night shirts. Flannel is a great insulator that will help you retain your body heat. Look for a fun or cute print to liven up your flannel wardrobe. Pay attention to fit. Looser is generally better when it comes to sleepwear. You probably move around during your sleep, and it's best to wear clothing that will easily move with you. Look for loose clothing, but make sure you won't get tangled up in it if you toss and turn. If you wear pajama pants, make sure that the elastic is loose and breathable. Wear socks. Your feet might be one of the coldest parts of your body. To help keep your whole body toasty, keep your feet warm by sleeping in socks. Choose socks that feel comfortable to you. Make sure they're not too big or floppy. You don't want them coming off in the middle of the night! Try layers. If flannel doesn't seem to be keeping you warm enough, consider adding additional layers of clothing. You could try a thermal t-shirt underneath your pajama top. You can also add a pair of form fitting leggings underneath your pants or night shirt. If you get cold during the night, add another layer. If you get too hot, just peel one off. Cover your head. A lot of your body heat can escape through your head. If you're really cold, consider wearing a hat to bed. You can wear a ski cap or even a hunter's style cap with ear flaps. Whatever feels good to you is the right hat. You could choose to wrap a scarf around your head (not your face) as an alternative to a hat. Use thicker sheets. Cotton sheets are great year round. But if you find that you need a little more heat during the winter, consider getting flannel sheets. They are soft, warm, and will keep you nice and insulated. Other materials that hold heat well are wool, fleece, and silk. You can find a wide variety of sheets at home goods stores, department stores, and online. One benefit to buying sheets in person is that many stores have samples of the fabrics for you to feel. This will help you to get an idea of what will work best for you. Buy a down comforter. Down comforters are typically much more expensive than other blankets. However, you might find this to be an investment worth making. There are several different weights of down comforters. The heavier ones are meant to keep you warm on cold nights. If you end up liking the down, you can find a lighter version for summer. If you are allergic to goose down, there are synthetic options available. Pile up your pillows. Pillow can also insulate you and keep you warm. Use several pillows to pile around you to make sort of a fort or igloo. This barrier will help keep your body heat in. You'll need at least 3-4 extra pillows to make this effective. Make sure to give yourself enough space to move around as you need to in your sleep. Get a hot water bottle. Sometimes the most traditional methods still prove to be some of the most effective. Hot water bottles might be considered old-fashioned, but they get the job done. Purchase a silicone hot water bottle at your local drugstore or online. Each night before bed, fill it with water that you have heated on the stove. Use a wool or flannel sleeve to cover your bottle. That will make it more comfortable to have in bed with you. Pop it under the covers with you and enjoy the warmth! Use an electric blanket. Electric blankets are a great way to add some extra heat to your bed. These are full size blankets that you use in addition to your sheets and comforter. Choose one with an adjustable heat setting so that you can set the temperature to your liking. Try a heated mattress pad. These are similar to an electric blanket, but go underneath your sheets. Make sure to carefully read the directions and follow the safety tips. Turn the blanket off before falling asleep. Paint the room in warm tones. If your eyes perceive warmth, it can actually make you feel warmer. Try painting your room a new color to warm it up. Some great color choices include reds, yellows, and browns. If you don't feel like painting your entire room, try doing an accent wall. Use area rugs if you don't have carpeting. It can be tough to hop out of bed onto a cold floor. If you don't have carpet, cover your wood or tile floors with area rugs. You can place one right next to your side of the bed so that you start your day by stepping onto something warm. Wool is a great choice for a rug. It will feel comfortable and warm on your feet. Snuggle with a partner or pet. Adding additional body heat to your own can help you feel nice and cozy. Winter is a great time to cuddle up to your partner. Snuggling up to your cat or dog can also help keep you warm. They might be just as eager to keep warm as you are! Block drafts. Check your windows to make sure there is not cold air seeping in. If it feels drafty, apply weatherstripping around the edges of the window. You can buy this at your local hardware store. You can also hang heavy curtains or drapes over your windows. At night, this will help keep the heat trapped inside your room. You can keep drafts from seeping under your door by placing a rolled up towel or blanket in front of the door. Open blinds and curtains during the day. Even when it's cold outside, natural sunlight can warm your home. During daylight hours, keep your blinds and curtains open. This can help your room stay cozy. Keep your room between 60-67 degrees. Although it might sound tempting to crank up the heat, you'll actually sleep better if the room itself is not overly warm. When you're ready for bed, try to keep the thermostat between 60-67 degrees. You can keep warm in other ways, plus you won't be running up the heating bill!

Wear flannel pajamas. Pay attention to fit. Wear socks. Try layers. Cover your head. Use thicker sheets. Buy a down comforter. Pile up your pillows. Get a hot water bottle. Use an electric blanket. Paint the room in warm tones. Use area rugs if you don't have carpeting. Snuggle with a partner or pet. Block drafts. Open blinds and curtains during the day. Keep your room between 60-67 degrees.

https://www.wikihow.com/Write-a-Journal

How to Write a Journal

To write a journal entry, start by writing down the date, time, and location where you're writing. Then, let your emotions flow and write about your feelings, like your family life, crush, or dreams. Try not to overthink it by writing things down as soon as they come into your head. You can also use writing prompts. To make your entries as useful as possible, get into a routine of writing regularly. Then, review your past entries to assess your feelings with the benefit of hindsight.

Find something to contain your journal entries. Traditionally, people who kept journals used literal, physical journals - small paper notebooks. You may want to use a cheap spiral or composition notebook or opt for a nicer hardcover journal. Today, however, a variety of additional digital options are also available. Any sort of computer program that allows you to input and save text is a potential journal - conventional word processors work well, as do free cloud-based writing programs like Google Docs. If you're looking at computer-based options for your journal, you might want to consider starting a blog - essentially an online journal that other people can read. A variety of free blog sites exist, some of which allow you to control who can and cannot read your blog. Start your first entry by setting the scene. To begin writing in your journal, label your first entry with the date, time and, optionally, location. For instance, you might start with "Monday, January 1, 1.00p.m., Bedroom". Next, if you'd like to, write a salutation. Many journal-writers like to use "Dear Journal" or a similar greeting to start each entry. However, this is completely optional. If you're writing a blog, you may want to begin by addressing your readers. Write! Let your emotions flow! There's no right way to write in your journal - however you feel in the moment is how you should write. In terms of subject matter, don't hold back - no topic is off limits. Your feelings, your dreams, your crush, your family life, and much more are topics you might consider exploring. Or, if you're feeling pretty average, you might just describe your day! Let your heart flow through your pen or keyboard. Get your true feelings down on the page - don't settle for anything less. As an exception to this rule, if you're writing a blog, while you'll want to be open with your emotions, consider your audience. You may want to consider censoring your most intense and/or personal thoughts. Develop a routine. Journals are best if they're added to frequently. Writing often allows you to keep constant, ongoing record of your thoughts and feelings. So, keep writing! It's easy to lose steam after the first few enthusiastic entries, but the benefits of keeping a journal are greatest if you can manage to make a routine of it. Many journal-writers like to add an entry every night before bed. This is a healthy routine because it allows the writer to relax and unwind at the end of the day by "letting out" any lingering emotions. Be sure to write honestly, don't overthink it, and stay focused. Re-read your past entries for insights. Why write your thoughts down if you never intend to read them? It's always good to take a few minutes every once in a while to look at your finished work. You may be surprised by how you felt in the past! Being able to assess your past thoughts and emotions objectively with the benefit of being separated from them by time can give you insights into how to proceed with your life in the future. Use your past entries to reflect on your life. As you read, ask yourself questions like, "Am I the same person who wrote this entry?", "Is my life going the way I want it to?", and "How can I work to solve any problems that may have been troubling me when I wrote this entry?" Give your journal some personal style. Each entry in your journal should be uniquely "you". Unless you're keeping a journal solely to record the empirical facts of each day (miles walked, tasks completed, etc.), you should try to have fun with your journal entries! Add doodles in the margins, lyrics, movies reviews, and anything else you want - it's all up to you! Take your journal with you as you travel. If you don't have your journal, you can't write in it! Travel is one of the best opportunities for journal writing - long days spent in planes, trains, and automobiles offer plenty of chances to write at length, and the unique experiences you often find yourself in while traveling practically beg for comment. Write frequently as you travel and be a constant observer - keep your eyes and ears open for new sensations and experiences so that you can write about them. The experiences you have while travelling can be some of the most influential ones in your life. Discovering the beauty of nature, making a friend in a far-off place, and even simply leaving your home can shape you, so document these things! Customize your journal. Unless your want your journal to be as plain and unassuming as possible (which is a legitimate option if you're worried about other people reading it), experiment with customizing your journal. The exact way you do so is up to you! If your journal is a notebook, for instance, you may want to decorate the outside with drawings or stickers. Inside, you may want to include photographs, newspaper clippings, pressed flowers, and more! If you're using a digital journal, like a blog, try adding photographs to your posts, including links, and choosing colorful templates. Think of your journal as a safe place to express yourself. Unless your journal is a blog that's open to the entire internet-browsing public, you should probably assume that no one will read it but you. If you choose to share it later, it'll be up to you to do so, but a journal is perfectly useful even if it's never shared. Try to consider your journal as a "safe haven" for your innermost thoughts. It's a place where you won't have to worry about being judged or embarrassed about the way you feel, so have no shame while you write. Write what you think as soon as you think it. Most people have internal thoughts that they "filter" whenever they interact with other people. If you meet an ugly person on the street, for instance, you would never blurt out that you find them ugly - instead, you choose which thoughts to let out and which thoughts to keep in. The trick to good journal writing is to "turn down" or even "turn off" this filter. This can be tricky - often, its' something people don't have a lot of experience doing. If you're having trouble turning off your filter, try writing "free form" as an exercise - scrawling your thoughts down in a stream-of-consciousness form the moment they come to you, whether they make sense or not. Comment on past journal entries. While you'll want each journal entry to stand up on its own merits, you may find that your entries can be made better by explicitly referencing past entries. By searching for explanations of why you wrote the way you did previously, you can come to a greater understanding of your own emotions. For instance, were you in a miserable mood when you wrote yesterday, but are now feeling better? Comment on this! By doing so, you may start to understand why you felt this way in the first place. Use writing prompts when you're bereft of ideas. Not every day will be eventful. Writing won't always come easy. Instead of giving up for the day, try, instead, to answer any one of the hundreds (if not thousands) of journal prompts available online. Writing educators occasionally use journal-writing as an academic exercise - when they do, they sometimes share the writing prompts for the exercise online. A simple search engine query like "journal writing prompts" can yield dozens of interesting results. Use the tools at your disposal for consistent journal greatness! You may find that, by pursuing a prompt, your writing ventures into interesting new areas you might otherwise never have explored. Be adventurous and pursue these new topics to your heart's content! Learn from the greats! Many famous and highly influential books are either the actual journals of real people or works of fiction written in the form of a journal. Both can help you become a great journal writer. Below are just a few of the works you may want to consult for inspiration: The diary of Samuel Pepys The Diary of a Young Girl (Anne Frank's diary) The diary of Jemima Conduct The diary of Franz Kafka Bridget Jones's Diary Diary of a Wimpy Kid The Color Purple Flowers for Algernon Dracula Gentlemen Prefer Blondes

Find something to contain your journal entries. Start your first entry by setting the scene. Write! Develop a routine. Re-read your past entries for insights. Give your journal some personal style. Take your journal with you as you travel. Customize your journal. Think of your journal as a safe place to express yourself. Write what you think as soon as you think it. Comment on past journal entries. Use writing prompts when you're bereft of ideas. Learn from the greats!

https://www.wikihow.com/Burn-Calories-Fast

How to Burn Calories Fast

To burn calories fast, start by drinking green tea to increase your metabolism. Also, try to include some protein into each meal, since your digestive system will use more energy to break it down. When you workout, try alternating one minute intervals of intense exercise and rest within your routine, which burns more calories than regular cardio. It also helps to incorporate weight training, because muscle uses more calories than fat even when you're at rest.

Try high-intensity interval training. If you thought cardio was a great way to burn calories, well, you'd be right. But what you'd be missing out on is that there are even better ways -- and that's interval training. The benefits of cardio (which are innumerable to start with) are amplified with this tactic. High-intensity interval training involves repeatedly exercising at a high intensity for 30 seconds to several minutes, separated by 1-5 minutes of recovery (either no or low-intensity exercise). Consider the benefits: You'll burn more calories. The more vigorously you exercise, the more calories you'll burn — even if you increase intensity for just a few minutes at a time. You'll improve your aerobic capacity. As your cardiovascular fitness improves, you'll be able to exercise longer or with more intensity. Imagine finishing your 60-minute walk in 45 minutes — or the additional calories you'll burn by keeping up the pace for the full 60 minutes. You'll keep boredom at bay. Turning up your intensity in short intervals can add variety to your exercise routine. You don't need special equipment. You can simply modify your current routine. Pump the iron. Lifting weights isn't the fastest way to burn calories, no. But you do need both cardio and weights to reap the ultimate benefits. Your metabolism relies on it -- more muscle, higher metabolism. Higher metabolism equals more calories burned. Many women avoid weight training because they're afraid of bulking up. But a little heavy lifting is actually your number-one key to calorie burn: The more lean muscle you have on your body, the faster your metabolism, the more calories you'll burn, and the slimmer and trimmer you'll look. That's because even when your muscles are at rest, they still require three times more energy than fat for tissue maintenance and rebuilding. Train to burn fat. We've established that you need cardio and weight training to really amp up your calorie expenditure. But what's more, if you do it right, you'll get an afterburn effect; you can burn up to 300 calories post-workout. Seriously. A simple definition of how to do this would be to lift something heavy, sprint and repeat several times over. It works your heart and lungs but also helps tone your muscles at the same time. Mix up a run with burpees, squats, deadlifts , and sprints to burn calories even while you have your feet up on the couch. Gyms often offer classes that involve both these domains. Ask yours about the cardio/weight classes they have available. You'll get the workout and find buddies to gripe with afterward -- and you thought only Charlie Sheen was winning. Experiment with circuit training. Burning calories is clearly about working as many muscle groups as you can at one time and circuit training does just that. But did you know that there are also psychological benefits too? It ups your mood and releases stress, in addition to increasing your cardiovascular fitness. The reason circuit training has such great effects is because it switches between muscle groups so quickly. Therefore, you're not wasting any time resting in-between stations. Your heart rate gets up and stays up, which definitely doesn't happen with weightlifting. And if you add a bit of aerobics into your circuit training session, even better. Mix it up. Often people fall back into thinking that cardio is code for running. While running is a very efficient way to burn calories, there are others. Swimming, rowing, boxing, and dancing are all great workouts, too. A good, solid rowing workout can easily have you burning 800 to 1,000 calories in an hour's worth of work. Just 45 minutes in the pool will easily burn 800 excess calories just itching to be stored as fat. Boxing rings in at about 700 calories per hour, depending on your weight. Something simple like ballet even burns about 450 calories an hour. Take up a new sport. If you can jog around your block blindfolded and with both arms tied behind your back, it's high time you find something else to do. Not only will this keep your mind fresh, but your body needs the challenge, too. It adapts to activities and burns fewer calories when they become old hat. To give your metabolism the ol' fake-out, go for cross-training. Don't forget about the after-burn! When your body does something it's not used to, it takes time to recover. In that recovery period, your metabolism is still up. Whatever you do, discover new muscles and keep 'em guessing. Stock up on green tea. Not only can the magical stuff fight cancer, but it can give your metabolism a boost, too. In a recent study by the Journal of Clinical Nutrition, participants who took green-tea extract three times each day saw a 4% rise in their metabolisms. What does that 4% mean to you? An extra 60 calories a day, that's what. Do you know what that means long-term? 6 pounds! Just by taking a little pill. And if you're of the scientific variety, it's believed to up your levels of norepinephrine. Drink lots of water. And you thought miracles didn't happen: A recent study has shown that if you drink 17 ounces of cold water, within 10 minutes your metabolism shoots up 30-40% for the next half hour or so. That means you could burn an extra 17,400 calories a year just by consuming an extra 1.5 liters (0.4 US gal) a day or so. That's five pounds! In addition to upping your metabolism, water fills you up, keeping you from eating more. Before you go about snacking, grab a glass. And, of course, always have a bottle with you at the gym. Do more (low-fat) dairy. A study published in the Journal on Obesity Research found that women who ate only low-fat dairy products -- like nonfat yogurt, for example -- at least three times a day lost 70% more fat than their female counterparts who just ate low amounts of dairy. In short, dairy doers have less fat on their bodies, not the other way around. In fact, calcium tells your body to amp up the fat burning. Unfortunately, calcium-fortified goods don't fall under the same umbrella -- to feel the calcium power, you have to go for the dairy products in the raw. Try to get at least 1,200 mg a day. Get fishy. With your diet, at least. Turns out those who eat fish on the regular have lower leptin levels -- this blessing keeps up the metabolism, preventing obesity. Try to get a serving of fish every other day; salmon, tuna, and mackerel, your fattier fish, are best. Replace foods that expand your waistline with healthy foods, like fish. Fish is a food that is full of satisfying flavor, low in calories, and stocked with heart-healthy omega-3 fatty acids. Omega-3 acids are essential fats that your body can't make. They help keep the blood from clotting too easily and add to a better cholesterol ratio. Fill up on fiber. Low-carb, high-fiber foods take more time to digest than other foods, leaving you feeling fuller longer and less likely to snack needlessly. Spinach, broccoli, asparagus, and cauliflower are all healthy, high-fiber foods. Beyond the fiber content, crunching and chewing a whole piece of fruit stimulates your senses and takes longer to eat. So psychologically, it may also be more satisfying than beverages or soft foods. Chewing also promotes saliva and the production of stomach juices that help fill the stomach. Pump up the protein. Not in an extreme, Atkins sort of way, but having a little protein at every meal fires up your metabolism. Your digestive system uses more energy to break it down, so you burn more calories. However, keep protein levels to between 20 and 35 percent of your diet; eating too much of it can cause kidney strain and may cause your body to store too much fat. Not all protein is created equal. Be sure to look for protein sources that are nutrient-rich and lower in fat and calories, such as lean meats, beans, soy, and low-fat dairy. Destress. Stress may contribute to abdominal fat, according to several studies, including a recent one at the University of California, San Francisco. When you're stressed, hormones like cortisol stimulate your appetite, slow your metabolism down and encourage fat storage inside your abdomen. So what can you do about this? Find an activity that reduces stress for you, whether it's listening to soothing music or taking yoga, and do it daily. Not only will you relax, but you'll lessen your likelihood to stress eat. Don't blow off breakfast. Studies show that eating breakfast plays a part in successful weight loss — almost 80 percent of people who successfully keep weight off chow down on this meal, according to a study published in Obesity Research. Your metabolism slows as you sleep, and the process of digesting food revs it up again. Aim for a 300- to 400-calorie breakfast, such as egg whites, high-fiber cereal (another metabolism booster) with skim milk or oatmeal and fruit. Eat lightly and often. For most people, the body uses up more energy digesting smaller meals every few hours than by eating the same number of calories in two or three sittings. So snack away during the day. Grazing is a surprisingly good idea because it helps you avoid metabolic slowdown. Your body will be tricked into thinking it's constantly eating, so it will never slow your metabolism down. Aim for five small meals (200 to 500 calories) a day rather than three large ones. Also, try not to go more than four hours without eating — if you eat breakfast at 7 am, for example, have a snack at 10 am, lunch at noon, another snack at 3 pm and dinner at 7 pm. Avoid alcohol. It may be hard to fathom, but alcohol actually depresses your central nervous system, ultimately slowing your metabolism. Now you have another reason to chug the H2O. A study in the UK found that if you consume a high-calorie meal, less of that will be burned off (and more will be stored) if you consumed it alongside alcohol. Alright, that's not entirely true. If you can keep your alcohol intake to one glass of red wine a day, you'll actually be less likely to become obese. That's one 4-oz glass of wine -- not one jug. Fidget. People who are constantly in motion — crossing and uncrossing their legs, stretching and pacing — burn more calories. When researchers at the Mayo Clinic asked subjects to eat an additional 1,000 calories a day for eight weeks, they found that only the non-fidgeters stored the calories as fat. Overweight people have a tendency to sit, while lean ones have trouble holding still and spend two hours more a day on their feet, pacing around and fidgeting, research says. The difference translates into about 350 calories a day, enough to produce a weight loss of 30 to 40 pounds in one year without trips to the gym. Get enough shut-eye. Yeah, Gosling may be on Letterman, but it's way more important for your waistline to head to bed. A study at the University of Chicago Medical Center found that people who got only four hours of sleep had much more difficulty processing carbs. The culprit? Increased levels of insulin and the stress hormone cortisol. When you're exhausted, your body lacks the energy to do its normal day-to-day functions, which includes burning calories efficiently. So the best way to make sure your metabolism runs smoothly is to get six to eight hours of Zs each night. Become active in any way that you can. Don't think of burning calories as something reserved for the gym. You can burn those bad boys anytime, anywhere. The following activities burn 150 calories for a 150-lb person: Golf and carry your own clubs for 24 minutes Shovel snow by hand for 22 minutes Spade your garden for 26 minutes Push a power lawnmower for 30 minutes Painting the house for 27 minutes Play ping pong or chase your kids around the playground for 33 minutes

Try high-intensity interval training. Pump the iron. Train to burn fat. Mix it up. Take up a new sport. Stock up on green tea. Drink lots of water. Do more (low-fat) dairy. Get fishy. Fill up on fiber. Pump up the protein. Destress. Don't blow off breakfast. Eat lightly and often. Avoid alcohol. Fidget. Get enough shut-eye. Become active in any way that you can.

https://www.wikihow.com/Knit-Faster-with-Continental-Knitting

How to Knit Faster with Continental Knitting

Continental knitting uses fewer movements, so it can help you knit faster. Unlike with English knitting, you should keep 1-2 inches of yarn between your index finger and the tip of the left needle with the yarn taut. Instead of wrapping the yarn in a wide arc around the needles, use the needles to pick up the yarn to make stitches. To knit even faster, practice knitting without looking down at your work, and adjust the angle of your needles so they're pointing up and almost parallel.

Choose your yarn and knitting needles. If you simply wish to knit swatches in order to practice continental knitting, pick yarn and needles that are comfortable to work with. The yarn should be heavy and smooth enough to easily slide through your fingers so you can focus on properly holding the yarn and needles. If you're continental knitting a specific project, follow the pattern directions for needle size and yarn weight. This will help you get the right gauge (tension). Wrap the yarn through your left hand. Pull about 12 inches (30 cm) of yarn off of the skein. Twist the end of the yarn once around your left pinky finger to make a loop. Pull the yarn under your middle finger and wrap up and around your index finger once. If you prefer, you can just lay the yarn over your index finger without wrapping it around. Hold the needles with both hands. Place the needle with the cast-on stitches in your left hand so the needle is held between your thumb, ring, and pinky fingers. Grasp the empty needle with your right hand. Check the tension of the yarn. Unlike English knitting, which throws the yarn into a wide loop onto the needles, you need to keep 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm) of yarn between your left index finger and the tip of the left needle. The yarn should be taut so it doesn't droop or sag. This will allow you to just move your right knitting needle back and forth to make stitches instead moving your entire right hand to make them. Insert the right needle through first stitch on the left needle. Use the tip of the right needle to pick up the first stitch so the right needle moves from left to right and front to back. The right needle should be behind the left needle. Wrap the yarn around the right needle. Move the tip of the right needle to wrap the yarn from your left index finger around it. Keep in mind that you shouldn't need to move your left index finger to wrap the yarn around the needle. The right needle only has to move a little to catch the yarn. Draw the yarn through the left needle. Once the yarn is around the right needle, bring the right needle back through the stitch towards the front. Slide the stitch off of the left needle onto the right needle. Use the middle finger of your left hand to hold the remaining stitches in place on the left needle. Then, lift the right needle up so the new stitch slides onto the right needle. Continue to continental knit the rest of the stitches on your left needle. Hold the working yarn in front of your needles. Bring the left index finger that has the yarn wrapped around it forward by about 2 inches (5 cm). This should bring the yarn in front of the needles instead of behind them. Insert the right needle from right to left through the first stitch. Instead of moving the needle in the same direction that you did to make a knit stitch, move the right needle in the opposite direction. Insert the tip of the right needle through the first stitch so the needle moves from back to front. Keep the yarn in front of the needles so it's out of the way while you insert the right needle. Wrap the yarn around the right needle and push the stitch off. Use your index finger to wrap the yarn from front to back around the tip of the right needle. You should only move your finger instead of your entire left hand. Push the yarn through the loop and lift the right needle up so the completed stitch moves onto it. If you're having trouble keeping the loop on the right needle, use the middle finger of your left hand to push the yarn down. This will keep it taut and prevent it from slipping off the needle. Knit without looking down. Practice concentrating on how the yarn feels as it passes through your fingers. The more you knit without looking down, the more efficient you'll be. Because it will seem tricky to do this at first, practice with a thick wool and make a swatch instead of a detailed project. If you're really struggling to knit without looking down, set a timer and challenge yourself to knit without looking for a few minutes at a time. Gradually increase the amount of time until it knitting becomes comfortable. Play around with knitting styles. Continental knitting is usually seen as faster because it takes less movement, but you should find the knitting style that you're the most comfortable with. You might find that knitting in your favorite style will actually help you knit faster because you're familiar with it. Many people are comfortable with English knitting because it's 1 of the most commonly taught styles. You could also try lever (Irish Cottage) knitting that uses a needle which stays in place or Portuguese knitting which uses your thumb to wrap the yarn. Adjust the tension of your yarn. Pay attention to how you usually knit and see if there are little things you could do differently. If you find that your knitting is tight and difficult to move on the needles, you may need to loosen your tension, so the yard slides between your fingers easier. Knit with a combination of English and continental styles. You might find that you prefer to knit with the continental stitch, but that you're faster when you purl in the English style. Try different movements to see what's the most efficient for you. Change the angle of the needles. Another adjustment you can make to your knitting is how you're pointing the needles as you insert them. To speed up your knitting, play around with the angle of the needles so they're almost parallel, at 90 degrees, or pointing up.

Choose your yarn and knitting needles. Wrap the yarn through your left hand. Hold the needles with both hands. Check the tension of the yarn. Insert the right needle through first stitch on the left needle. Wrap the yarn around the right needle. Draw the yarn through the left needle. Slide the stitch off of the left needle onto the right needle. Hold the working yarn in front of your needles. Insert the right needle from right to left through the first stitch. Wrap the yarn around the right needle and push the stitch off. Knit without looking down. Play around with knitting styles. Adjust the tension of your yarn. Knit with a combination of English and continental styles. Change the angle of the needles.

https://www.wikihow.com/Buy-a-Timeshare

How to Buy a Timeshare

To buy a timeshare, start by looking for a property in a location where you'd like to vacation often, like Hawaii or Vail. Make sure to avoid buying a timeshare as an investment, since they generally depreciate in value. Then, try renting a property first to get an idea of what the location is like. Once you find a company selling timeshares, ask about maintenance costs, which you'll have to pay after purchasing the timeshare. Before you finalize the deal, consider having a lawyer look over the agreement to make sure you're not getting scammed.

Choose deeded ownership to own part of the unit. With this type of timeshare, you buy a certain time period each year in the vacation unit. You are actually part owner of the property, so you can rent it or even include it in your will to pass on to someone else. The downside is you can only use the unit at the specified time each year, unless you are able to trade with another timeshare holder. Pick the "right-to-use" option for more flexibility. In this case, you buy a certain amount of time in a unit, such as the right to use it for 10 weeks a year for 10 years. You don't own the property (the resort does), but you do own the interest in the property. This type of timeshare can be set up in a few ways. You might buy a specific time period each year, or you may buy the right to a certain amount of time each year. You might also buy points that can be exchanged for staying at different resorts withing a group of resorts. Generally, this type of timeshare is specified for a certain number of years. While flexible options are nice, you still need to plan ahead, as rooms fill up quickly. Pick between new and "used. " When it comes to timeshares, "used" refers to buying a timeshare from another buyer, rather than from the resort. "New" refers to buying directly from the resort. Buying new is more expensive, but you're less likely to get scammed. Plus, you know the title is clean without any liens on it. A lien is when a creditor has the right to sell the property if the payment is not met; often, a owner doesn't have the right to sell a property with a lien on it without first talking to the creditor. You may also get added benefits, such as being able to trade dates. Buying used can be much cheaper, as some people are desperate to unload their timeshares. You may even find timeshares as cheap as $1 USD. These deals may be perfectly above board, but you do need to do your homework first. Don't buy a timeshare as an investment. Timeshares are not good as an investment option because they generally depreciate in value. If you're looking for a real estate investment, it's best to pick another option. Choose a location. The first step in buying a timeshare is to pick a place you'd like to vacation most years. While some timeshares offer a point system where you can visit more than one location, most of the time, you'll be returning to the same place each year. Therefore, you need to pick somewhere that you enjoy going. Of course, certain vacation spots will have more timeshares than other places, so you'll need to pick a place where you can find a timeshare. Some popular timeshare in the US locations include Hawaii, Vail, CO, Aspen, CO, Florida Keys, and Lake Tahoe, CA. Pick a reputable company to buy from. Whether your buying new or used, choose a company with a good reputation. it's important to visit the resort and view the property, as well as talk to other timeshare owners if possible. You can also look for complaints about the company online. If you're buying used, pick a site such as https://tug2.com/timeshare-marketplace.aspx or http://www.myresortnetwork.com/sell-timeshare/. Rent first. If you can manage it, try renting from the property first. Staying for a week gives you a better idea of what the company is like than just visiting. Plus, it helps you decide if you really like the location. Ask about maintenance. It's good to know ahead of time what the company's policy is on maintenance. For instance, you should know how quickly you can expect repairs to be carried out. It's also a good idea to ask about the average cost of maintenance fees per year. Ask for a written copy of the maintenance policy. That way, you have something to refer to, as well as a document to use if you need to turn to legal recourse. Have a lawyer look over the contract. If you don't know much about real estate contracts, it's a good idea to have someone who is knowledgeable look over your contract. That way, you can sign it with confidence that you're not getting scammed. Have a title search performed if you're buying used. If you're buying a used timeshare, it's important to make sure it's above board. Hire a title search company to perform a title search on the timeshare, which can tell you if the title has old liens and will assure if the owner actually is the person you're buying from. Pay cash if possible. The interest rates for a timeshare are typically pretty high, often 12 to 18 percent. If you buy it with a loan, you'll end up paying a lot more than you would if you just paid cash. Plus, if you ever want to sell it, it can be difficult to get a buyer to pay enough to cover the loan. Pay your maintenance fees. When it comes to buying a timeshare, the initial price isn't all you need to worry about. You'll be responsible for annual maintenance fees, which can run as much as $1,000 USD or more. Also, you may be hit with "assessment" fees some years, which can run in the thousands. Back out if you have buyer's remorse. Because buying a timeshare is often done on impulse, many states give you a week or so to take the offer back. In fact, Florida gives you a week and a half. If you're having second thoughts, see if you can rescind the contract where you are. If you want to rescind, send the request in writing by certified mail, so you can guarantee the company received it.

Choose deeded ownership to own part of the unit. Pick the "right-to-use" option for more flexibility. Pick between new and "used. Don't buy a timeshare as an investment. Choose a location. Pick a reputable company to buy from. Rent first. Ask about maintenance. Have a lawyer look over the contract. Have a title search performed if you're buying used. Pay cash if possible. Pay your maintenance fees. Back out if you have buyer's remorse.

https://www.wikihow.com/Arrange-Towels-on-a-Towel-Bar

How to Arrange Towels on a Towel Bar

To arrange towels on your towel bar, try folding them in thirds. First, lay your towel out flat. Fold each long side into the middle so they both touch, then hang the folded towel lengthwise over the bar. If you're hanging hand towels and bath towels, hang the hand towel on top of the bath towel.

Spread the bath towel out on a flat surface. Any flat surface you have handy will work. You can use a table, the bed, a counter, or whatever is convenient. It's important to make sure the towel is spread out flat and evenly so the towel's ends line up as neatly as possible. Make sure the surface you're using is clean and free of contaminants. The last thing you want after getting clean in the shower is drying with a dirty towel! Fold the towel into thirds and drape it over the towel bar. First, lay the towel flat. Then, fold each long edge toward the middle so both edges are touching in the center. Make sure the tag is inside! You can also fold one long side to the middle, and then fold the other long side on top of the first. Hang the towel over the bar. Adjust the hanging ends so that they're both even. If more than one towel is hanging from the bar, keep them separated from each other to prevent mildew and mold. Hang a hand towel over a bath towel. To hang the hand towel, lay it on a flat surface and fold it into thirds vertically. Once it's folded, drape it over the large towel on the rack. Choose towels that are color-coordinated. Fold a large bath towel into thirds lengthwise. Lay the towel flat on a smooth surface. Fold each of the long sides so that they touch end-to-end in the middle. Then fold the towel in half and drape it over the bar. Create a lip fold on a smaller towel. Spread out a hand towel on a flat surface. Fold one of the shorter sides a quarter of the way towards the middle. Fold that edge again in half backwards to create the lip fold. Flip the small towel over and fold it into thirds lengthwise. With the lip facing down, fold 1 side of the towel so it meets the middle. Fold the other side so that it tucks into the fold created by the lip. Flip the towel back over and now you have a pocket where you can put items such as soap, lotion, or other toiletries. Hang the hand towel over the bath towel so the pocket is facing out. It'll look like an apron with a pocket. Fold a washcloth with an accordion pleat and put it in the pocket. Lay the washcloth flat on a table and fold the side lengthwise to create pleats that overlap one another. Be sure to hold the washcloth tight so it doesn't come undone! Fold it in half and carefully place inside of the pocket you created in the hand towel. Fan out the washcloth to make it look like a ruffle in the pocket. Fold the large towel into thirds. Place it flat on the table and fold its longer sides so they touch in the middle. Then fold the towel in half and drape it over a towel bar. Straighten out the ends so that they're all even. Fold the washcloth into a triangle over the folded towel. Place the washcloth on a flat surface so it looks like a diamond shape. Fold the top triangular end to the bottom end to create a bandana shape. Tie the corners of the triangle around the front half of the towel. Tie both ends of the washcloth around the front-facing flap of the bath towel. If the washcloth is very thick, use a large safety pin or clothes pin to hold it around the bath towel. Get creative and add some silk flowers or other crafty items you might have around to the pocket created by the bandana tie.

Spread the bath towel out on a flat surface. Fold the towel into thirds and drape it over the towel bar. Hang the towel over the bar. Hang a hand towel over a bath towel. Fold a large bath towel into thirds lengthwise. Create a lip fold on a smaller towel. Flip the small towel over and fold it into thirds lengthwise. Fold a washcloth with an accordion pleat and put it in the pocket. Fold the large towel into thirds. Fold the washcloth into a triangle over the folded towel. Tie the corners of the triangle around the front half of the towel.

https://www.wikihow.com/Make-a-Blanket-Fort

How to Make a Blanket Fort

If you want to make a blanket fort, you'll need chairs for the frame, a few blankets or sheets, and some pillows. To get started, place the chairs in 2 rows with the backs facing inward. Then, drape the blankets or sheets over the chairs to create the walls and ceiling. Next, use clothespins, rubber bands, or something heavy to secure the blankets to the chairs so they don't fall down. Finally, lay a blanket down inside the fort and fill it with pillows to make it more comfortable. Alternatively, if you don't have chairs or if you want to make a bigger fort, try draping the blankets over the back of a sofa or side of a bed!

Make 2 rows of chairs with the backs facing each other. Chairs are a great option because their backs provide a high fort ceiling. Position the rows in front of a sofa, bed, or wall if you want the fort to be enclosed on the back side. Space the rows of chairs about 4 to 6 ft (1.2 to 1.8 m) apart depending on the size of your blanket. If you don't have chairs to support your fort, see what other sturdy items are in the room. Laundry hampers, ottomans, and boxes can serve as fort building materials. Place the items side-by-side if you need to use multiple pieces to create the fort. You can use furniture of different heights to create high and low places in the fort, which makes it extra fun to crawl around inside. Make sure to choose furniture items that are tall enough so you will be able to crawl or sit under the blankets in the fort. Place blankets and pillows on the floor of the fort to make it comfortable. Fold a comforter in half and lay it down or layer a few blankets to add cushioning to the bottom the fort. Then, place several cushions or pillows around the edges of the fort. You can also place extra blankets or sleeping bags in the fort to cover yourself up. If the ceiling of your fort is high enough, you could even place a few low chairs or stools in the fort, such as bean bag chairs or ottomans. Drape a sheet or blanket over the furniture pieces. Drape a large sheet or blanket over the top of the fort so that it goes over the edges of the furniture. Pull the blanket or sheet taut so that it is not drooping down in the center of the fort's ceiling. Layer more than 1 sheet or blanket over the furniture to provide a darker environment inside of the fort. Use a light-colored sheets to allow some light into the inside of the fort, or use a dark-colored sheet or blanket to make it darker in the fort. Secure the blankets with heavy objects or clothespins. The edges of the blanket will eventually slip off the furniture if you do not weigh them down. Grab a few books or other heavy objects and place them on the edges of the blanket. Clothes pins may be enough to secure the edges of a sheet on some types of furniture. For example, if you are using a couch as part of your fort base, then clip the sheet edge to the fabric on the couch using a clothes pin. Propping large pillows or couch cushions against the fort's framework can also help to secure the blankets. Use an extendable curtain rod to support the ceiling in a small space. If you are building the fort in a hallway, closet, or other small space, then you can use an extendable shower rod as a support for the ceiling of your fort. Extend the curtain rod over the center of where you want the fort's ceiling to be. Then, drape your blanket or sheet over the curtain rod. Use smaller pieces of furniture to support the lower portion of the sheet or blanket. This fort is nice if you want to create a ceiling that is high enough to walk under. Make sure that the blanket or sheet you use is long enough to reach the floor. Avoid draping the blanket's edges over any furniture that could easily fall over, such as small end tables. Extend a clothesline across the room for an extra-large fort. If you want a large, long fort, then try stringing a clothesline from 1 end of your living room or bedroom to the other. Then, drape blankets and use smaller pieces of furniture to keep the blankets from caving in. This will allow you to create a fort that can span the entire length of a room. Make sure to hang the ends of the clothesline from something sturdy, such as a doorknob. You could also extend 2 clotheslines running parallel to each other for a wider fort. Drape a blanket over a 4-legged table. A quick and easy way to make a fort is use a table as your base. Pull the chairs away from a 4-legged table and drape a large blanket over it. Your fort is complete! Make sure to choose a table that is high enough for you to fit underneath. Use a blanket that is large enough to cover all 4 sides of the table. Add lights to the fort. If you want to read inside your fort or play board games with siblings or friends, you may want to add some lights. Christmas lights look great, and they come in all sorts of colors. String the lights across the ceiling of the fort, or place them on the ground around the edges of the fort. You could also place a few flameless candles or a battery-powered lantern inside of the fort. A flashlight works, too! Use it to light up your face while telling a spooky story. Create tunnels with boxes and additional blankets. If you have an empty box laying around, use it to connect your fort to a second fort, or simply make a tunnel going into the fort. Open up the top and bottom of the box and lay it on its side at the edge of the fort. Then, drape a blanket over the box to help it blend in with your fort. Place multiple boxes in a row to make a longer tunnel into and out of your fort. Place a fan at the end of the opening to keep the space cool. Forts can get pretty hot, especially after a busy day of adventuring. Place a fan in front of the opening to the fort to help circulate air throughout it. Do not hang any blankets behind the fan or they may get stuck in it and break it. Bring games, books, and other types of entertainment into the fort. If you plan to spend some time relaxing in your fort, make sure to bring a variety of fun items into it. Bring a few board or card games into the fort if you will have friends or siblings in there with you, or bring a good book if you will be in the fort alone. You could also bring a tablet or laptop into the fort if you want to watch a movie or play games. Stock your fort with snacks and drinks. You don't want to have to leave the fort to get a drink of water or something to eat! Put some non-perishable drinks and snacks in the fort so you won't have to go in search of food and drink for a while. Some good options include: Whole fruit, such as oranges, apples, or bananas Pretzels Chips Crackers Cookies Beef jerky Juice boxes Water bottles

Make 2 rows of chairs with the backs facing each other. Place blankets and pillows on the floor of the fort to make it comfortable. Drape a sheet or blanket over the furniture pieces. Secure the blankets with heavy objects or clothespins. Use an extendable curtain rod to support the ceiling in a small space. Extend a clothesline across the room for an extra-large fort. Drape a blanket over a 4-legged table. Add lights to the fort. Create tunnels with boxes and additional blankets. Place a fan at the end of the opening to keep the space cool. Bring games, books, and other types of entertainment into the fort. Stock your fort with snacks and drinks.

https://www.wikihow.com/Roast-Almonds-in-the-Oven

How to Roast Almonds in the Oven

To roast almonds in the oven, start by spreading them out in a single layer on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. If you want to give the almonds more flavor, sprinkle salt over them or season them with olive oil and your favorite spices. Next, roast the almonds in the oven for 10-12 minutes at 350 degrees Fahrenheit, or until they turn brown and smell nutty and fragrant. Finally, take the almonds out of the oven and let them cool for 10-15 minutes.

Spread 3 cups of almonds on an ungreased baking sheet. Place a piece of parchment paper underneath the baking sheet for easy cleaning. Your baking sheet should only bake a single layer of almonds at a time. Preheat your oven to 350 °F (177 °C) and wait until it's heated to bake your almonds. Spray vegetable oil on the pan or grease the pan with butter before baking as an alternative. If you have more almonds than your baking sheet can hold, prepare another baking sheet. Salt your almonds to give them flavor. The healthiest option is to bake almonds raw, without any seasonings or oils. But, if you'd prefer to salt your almonds, sprinkle 1 tablespoon (14.8 ml) of salt over the tops of the almonds before you put them in the oven. Make an optional spice mixture made of 1 tablespoon (14.8 ml) of chili powder, cumin, coriander, cinnamon, olive oil, and pepper to further flavor your almonds. Mix the chili powder, coriander, cumin, cinnamon, and pepper in a small bowl. Drizzle the olive oil over the almonds first, then sprinkle the spice mixture evenly over the almonds. Bake your almonds in the oven for 10-12 minutes. To check if your almonds are done, open your oven door and get a whiff of the oven. When your almonds are done roasting, they will turn golden brown and have a nutty, fragrant smell. Let your almonds cool for about 10-15 minutes. Because of their high oil content, almonds continue baking for about 10-15 minutes after they come out of the oven. Wait 15 minutes before you try the almonds for the best flavor and crunch. Test an almond for its taste and crunch. Almonds that have finished roasting will taste toasted, not bitter. They will also have a distinct crunch. If your almonds taste a little bitter or do not have a crisp outer texture, put them back in the oven and try them again in 5 minutes. Transfer your almonds to a bowl or plate. Sprinkle the almonds with a pinch of salt, if desired. Let the almonds cool on the pan for 5-10 minutes, then place them in a bowl or on a plate for serving. Preheat your oven to 350 °F (177 °C). While your oven is preheating, spread 2 cups of almonds on a baking sheet. Place a square of parchment paper over the pan before you add the almonds to make cleaning the pan after baking easier. Spray vegetable oil on the pan or grease the pan with butter before baking if you don't have parchment paper. Spread the almonds over a single layer on the baking sheet. If your sheet is too small, use 2 sheets. Mix 1/4 cup white sugar and a pinch of salt in a large bowl. Continue mixing until the sugar and salt are evenly blended. Set the bowl aside, away from your prep space, until after you have cooked the almonds. For spiced honey almonds, add 1 tablespoon (14.8 ml) cayenne powder to your sugar and salt mixture. Bake your almonds in the oven for 10-15 minutes. Keep the oven closed while you bake so your almonds can cook quickly. Do not remove the almonds from the oven until they turn a golden brown color and have a strong nutty smell. Stir 1/4 cup honey and 2 tablespoon (29.6 ml) water in a large saucepan. Turn your stove to medium heat and bring the saucepan to a boil. Add the almonds to the saucepan and stir the almonds continuously for 5 minutes as they absorb the liquid. Transfer your almonds to your bowl of sugar mixture. Do not wait for your almonds to cool—the almonds need to be hot so the sugar can stick. Mix your almonds for about 2-3 minutes so they are evenly coated with the sugar. Spread the almonds on parchment paper. Let them cool for about 30-40 minutes so the sugar can crystallize. When your almonds are dry and cool, serve them as desired or store them at room temperature. Preheat your oven to 350 °F (177 °C) and grease a baking sheet. Use butter or a vegetable oil spray so the almonds do not stick to your baking sheet as they cool. Set the baking sheet aside until you're ready to cook the almonds. Lightly beat 1 egg white in a small bowl. Using a whisk, stir your egg white in a quick, circular motion. Slowly add 2 tablespoon (29.6 ml) water as you whisk the egg. Continue whipping your egg white until the consistency turns fluffy and soft. Separate your egg before beating it to completely remove the yolk. Add the raw almonds to the bowl of egg whites. Stir the almonds into the beaten egg whites using a large spoon. Continue mixing the almonds until they are lightly coated in the egg whites. Mix 1/2 cup white sugar, 1/4 cup cinnamon, and a pinch of salt in a bowl. Continue stirring the mixture until the cinnamon and sugar are evenly blended. Spread your almonds over the baking sheet in a single layer, then sprinkle the cinnamon-sugar mixture evenly over the almonds. Bake your almonds for 25-30 minutes. After 25 minutes have passed, open the oven to check on your almonds. When your almonds are finished baking, they should turn golden brown and have a sweet, nutty smell. If you prefer crunchier almonds, leave them in the oven for the full 30 minutes. Cool your almonds on a baking rack for 10-15 minutes. Cinnamon almonds are often served hot. Serve them after 10 minutes have passed, while they are still warm, for the best flavor.

Spread 3 cups of almonds on an ungreased baking sheet. Salt your almonds to give them flavor. Bake your almonds in the oven for 10-12 minutes. Let your almonds cool for about 10-15 minutes. Test an almond for its taste and crunch. Transfer your almonds to a bowl or plate. Preheat your oven to 350 °F (177 °C). Mix 1/4 cup white sugar and a pinch of salt in a large bowl. Bake your almonds in the oven for 10-15 minutes. Stir 1/4 cup honey and 2 tablespoon (29.6 ml) water in a large saucepan. Transfer your almonds to your bowl of sugar mixture. Spread the almonds on parchment paper. Preheat your oven to 350 °F (177 °C) and grease a baking sheet. Lightly beat 1 egg white in a small bowl. Add the raw almonds to the bowl of egg whites. Mix 1/2 cup white sugar, 1/4 cup cinnamon, and a pinch of salt in a bowl. Bake your almonds for 25-30 minutes. Cool your almonds on a baking rack for 10-15 minutes.

https://www.wikihow.com/Wear-Leg-Warmers

How to Wear Leg Warmers

To wear leg warmers, try them with flats and tights as a comfortable alternative to calf-high boots. For a more dressy look, wear them under a short skirt or dress with heels or ankle boots. You can also pair leg warmers with ankle boots and skinny jeans to elongate your legs, or to create the illusion of calf-high boots. If you'd like to try an urban look, pair leg warmers in bright colors, like red or purple, with black or white high top sneakers.

Wear leg warmers with flats and tights. If it's 40 degrees outside and you're just dying to wear that dress, leg warmers and leggings or footless tights are a great option. Black tights and black leg warmers are an understated, classic combination. It's like wearing boots, but much more comfortable! Make sure they're a little bit bunched, especially around the ankle. They shouldn't be so low they're dragging on the ground, but there should be overlap between your shoe and the leg warmer. Wear 'em with pumps. This one takes a bit more confidence, though it's a totally acceptable look. As long as your heels are on the understated side, leg warmers will look good. Stick to heels that are nude, brown, black, or gray. Leg warmers are a cozy look. If you're wearing stripper heels that glow-in-the-dark, leg warmers will look a bit out of place. Unless your leg warmers are glow-in-the-dark too, of course. Wear leg warmers with a skirt. This is the same concept as with a dress. Tights are only necessary if the weather requires it, though they can streamline the leg. If you have a skirt that's a little on the short side, leg warmers can make it more modest. Your shoe options are endless here. Flats, pumps, boots -- it's all good. Just keep the colors neutral yet varied! Wear 'em over jeans. You know those skinny jeans you have, but your pear shape makes you feel a little funny wearing them too often? Wear leg warmers over them! Problem immediately solved. Again, your footwear here can be anything. Anything but flip flops! Wear them peeking above your calf-high boots. For an extra textual touch (or a bit more warmth), wear them just peeking above your boots. Anywhere from 2-6 inches is good. Don't worry about matching colors. Unless you're wearing black, this will be hard to do. Different shades of brown and beige are totally fine. It'll just draw attention to your attention for detail! Wear them on top of your ankle boots. If the pants, skirt, or dress you're wearing don't go well with your calf-high boots, you can get a similar look with ankle boots and leg warmers. Just pull them a bit over the tops of your booties and scrunch 'em up! Go totally urban. Wear them with Converse or Converse high tops for an urban look. No one said leg warmers had to be for dressed up occasions! You can wear them whenever you want! Fashion is, as of late, about intentional chaos. If it doesn't go together, in a way it...goes together. A quick Google search will verify this if you're skeptical. So if you're think you're not in line with current trends, just in being so, you are. Blowing your mind, huh? Rumple them up a little bit. Leg warmers are not meant to be stretched flat. You want them below your knee and appearing a bit loose. If you don't have them hidden by a boot, they should be about 4-6 inches (10-15 cm) from your knee, extending down to just above your heel. Stick to neutral colors. What makes leg warmers wearable after the millennium is their inconspicuousness. When they used to be neon yellow and pink, now they're mostly donned in browns, beiges, blacks, navies, and creams. While they don't have to be a color in your outfit necessarily, stick to neutrals that match everything. Leg warmers are a definite accessory and shouldn't really be a focal point. If your eye goes straight to your leg warmers, you're probably doing it wrong. Get leg warmers in neon colors and patterns. 1983 was awesome. If you weren't there, know that it was awesome. You could practically go hunting in your day clothes you were so brightly-colored. Sunglasses were worn just so you could look at your friends' bright orange shoulder pads. Sadly the 80s are over, but you can bring them back with some bright plaid leg warmers! They can either be a solid, bright color or several colors in a pattern. As long as they can't be missed, you're good. Magenta, lemon yellow, magenta and lemon yellow in a paisley pattern -- don those bad boys like you're being paid by Cosmo. Wear those ell-dubs with matching fingerless gloves. Someone less in tune with fashion history would call this "overkill." But the 80s didn't have such a word in their vocabulary and fingerless gloves the same color and pattern as your legwarmers were a go-to look. It's called "matching" and it never occurred to anyone 30 years ago that it could be a bad thing. Does your local leg warmer supply warehouse not have matching fingerless gloves? Well for one, shame on them. For two, looks like you're going to have to take matters into your own hands. Take out that sweater your grandma knitted you in 2007 and put it to good use. Turn the arms into leg warmers and whip up some palm warmers out of the shoulders. She'll be glad you did something with it. '83 was thirty years ago. If that fact makes you a little nauseated, you're not alone. Make sure your clothes are in the same color family. Are you rocking fuchsia leg warmers? Hope you can find some fuchsia tights, a fuchsia skirt, and a fuchsia top. You'll look like you're straight outta Olivia Newton John's "Physical" video. You may not want to take this look to the gym, however. Modern day shopping outlets not keen on your 80s throwback? That's what wikiHow's "Dyeing Fabric" article is for! Clothes aren't magically grown out of thin air by elves, you know. Make something yourself! Pair 'em with your old school Nikes or Converse. The 80s were a little less...put together than fashion is now. How do you think they birthed the grunge era? Because of this, wear your leg warmers with anything. Tennis shoes? Sure. Chucks? Sure. The question is: Are your legs cold? If the answer is yes, wear leg warmers. Most people are a little bit hipster , whatever that means. If you have any of that I-just-grabbed-this-out-of-my-closet-and-I-look-super attitude in you, leg warmers are a safe bet. If none of your outfit goes together, your leg warmers make sense. In other words, it's a crazy, mixed-up world, and you can't do it wrong. Leg warmers in the morning', leg warmers, in the evening', leg warmers at dinner time.

Wear leg warmers with flats and tights. Wear 'em with pumps. Wear leg warmers with a skirt. Wear 'em over jeans. Wear them peeking above your calf-high boots. Wear them on top of your ankle boots. Go totally urban. Rumple them up a little bit. Stick to neutral colors. Get leg warmers in neon colors and patterns. Wear those ell-dubs with matching fingerless gloves. Make sure your clothes are in the same color family. Pair 'em with your old school Nikes or Converse.

https://www.wikihow.com/Paint-Furniture-Black

How to Paint Furniture Black

To paint furniture black, use a latex, acrylic, or oil-based paint if you'll be painting indoors since these kinds of paints don't have dangerous fumes. If you can work outside in a well-ventilated area, go with spray paint, which is easier and faster to use and results in a smoother finish. Whichever paint you go with, start by sanding your furniture with fine-grit sandpaper so the paint has something to grip onto. Then, apply a coat of paint primer and let it dry for at least 24 hours. Finally, apply several thin coats of black paint, letting the paint dry in between each coat.

Choose your work area. Find a well-lit, well-ventilated area that you can paint your furniture in. Good lighting is important, as it will help you spot any imperfections in your work. The best place to paint is outside, so long as it is not windy or humid. If you cannot paint outside or in a well-ventilated area, make sure to keep a window open. If possible, keep a fan turned on, and turned away from you, so that it does not blow paint fumes or dust towards you. If you start start to feel sick or lightheaded, take a break and move to an area with fresher air. Prepare your work area. Painting can be messy, so you will have to cover your work area with something that can get dirty or be discarded, such as newspaper. If you do not have newspaper, you can use newsprint, butcher paper, old tablecloths, or old bed sheets instead. You can also purchase cheap, plastic tablecloths from a party supply store or an arts and crafts store and use those. Wear proper clothing. Some paint may also get on your clothes, so wear something that you do not mind getting stained with paint. You can also wear an artist's smock. If you have sensitive skin, consider wearing gloves to protect your hands in case you get paint on them. You can also protect a manicure with gloves. Determine what your furniture is made of. What primer and paint you will use on your furniture will depend on what the piece is made of. Choose an indoor primer and paint intended for the surface, be it wood, metal, or plastic. If your furniture has already been painted, consider choosing a primer intended for pre-painted surfaces. The label will tell you whether or not the primer and paint will work on the material your furniture is made of. Consider what sort of paint you want to use. You can use latex, acrylic, or oil-based paint. You can also use wood stains or spray paint as well. Each of these has pros and cons: Latex, acrylic, and oil-based paints have little to no fumes and can be used indoors. Unfortunately, improper painting techniques can result in visible brush strokes and tackiness. Brushes used for oil-based paints will need to be cleaned with paint thinner, which can create headache-causing fumes. For a sleek finish, consider using a black enamel paint with a semi-gloss finish. Enamel paints dry harder than other paints, so they're a durable option for furniture. Wood stain gives you more of a translucent look, so you'll still be able to see the wood grain. It will protect the surface of the wood, but it will still allow moisture to escape, so it's ideal for outdoor furniture. Wood stain is available in both oil-based and water-based formulas. Both are fine, but the oil-based may last longer. Spray paint is fast and easy to use, but it can also be expensive. It creates a smooth finish, and you will not have to clean any brushes afterwards. You will have to work in a well-ventilated area to prevent lightheadedness, however. Decide what sort of finish do you want. Paint comes in all sorts of finishes, with its own benefits and drawbacks: Glossy finishes look elegant, but they show any imperfections in the paint and wood, such as brush strokes and dents. Glossy finishes can also be easily marred. Satin or semi-gloss finishes are decent at hiding imperfections, and are easier to maintain than glossy surfaces. Matte surfaces hide imperfections the best, but they can look simplistic. A chalkboard finish gives you a matte surface that hides imperfections well. It can create a fun, interactive surface that you can draw on with chalk. It also does not need to be sealed afterward. Think about the final design. Before you start painting your furniture black, ask yourself what you want the finished piece to look like. To you want it to be completely black? Or do you want to add some designs to it? Alternatively, do you want the piece to be a solid color with black designs painted onto it? Asking yourself these questions will help you decide how much paint you will need as well as what other supplies you will need to get (such as thin paint brushes for detailing or stencils). For example: For a weathered or antique look, paint your furniture a matte or semi-matte black, and then buff the corners with fine grit sandpaper. Keep in mind that anything underneath the paint will show through, depending on how much you sand. This includes primer, previous paint jobs, and the original surface of the furniture. Consider stenciling some designs onto your finished piece in a contrasting color, such as white, silver, or gold. Consider painting the entire piece a contrasting color first, and then adding black designs using stencils. Remove drawers and any pieces you don't want painted. If your furniture has removable pieces, such as drawers and doors, take these off and set them aside. If your furniture has any pieces that you do not want painted, such as hinges, knobs, and pulls, remove them and set them aside; if you cannot remove them, then cover them with painters tape. Fix any dents and scratches. Imperfections show up on black surfaces, and even more so if that surface is glossy. If your furniture has any dents or holes, fill these in with some wood filler or putty. Sand your furniture. Before you can start priming and painting your furniture, you need to sand your piece. This gives the primer a rough surface to grip on to. Take some fine grit sand paper (between 180 and 220 grit) and lightly buff the entire surface of your piece. You do not have to strip the entire previous paint job; you simply need to create a rough texture. If your furniture has a varnish on it, then use 80 grit sandpaper. Wipe your furniture down with a tack cloth. You need to remove any dust created from when you sanded your furniture. Do this by wiping the entire surface of your furniture with a tack cloth. Your furniture needs to be completely clean of any grease, dust, dirt, or debris before you begin to paint it. Otherwise, the paint will not adhere properly to the surface. Apply a grey, paint primer to your furniture. Grey primer helps make shadows more visible, which will help you find and fix any imperfections. You can either paint or spray on the primer. To prevent drips and puddles, apply several light coats of primer (while letting the primer dry between coats) as opposed to one thick coat. Be sure to choose a primer intended for the material your furniture is made out of. Use sandpaper and tack cloth to remove any imperfections. Once the primer has dried, run 220 grit sandpaper over any imperfections in the primer, such as paint drips, bubbles, and globs. After that, wipe the piece down again with tack cloth. If necessary, apply more primer and repeat the process. Remember, imperfections show up more on black surfaces, so your primed surface needs to be as smooth as possible. Wait for your primer to dry. Before you start painting, let your primer dry at least 24 hours. Refer to the directions on the can, as some primers might require more time. Choose your brushes and foam applicators. Paint and wood stains can be applied to furniture in many ways: paint brushes, foam applicators, and foam rollers. You will need a foam roller or a large, angled brush (at least 1 inch wide) for the large, flat areas of your piece. You will also need a small brush to reach details such as carvings, crevices, and corners. Consider using higher-quality brushes or foam rollers for best results. Avoid cheap brushes with stiff bristles if you can, as these are more likely to create brushstrokes. Remember, details and imperfections show up more in black paint, especially if it has a glossy finish. You can also purchase spray paint and spray the paint on using light, even coats. Keep the can 6 to 8 inches away from the piece. Condition your paint brush. If you have decided to use paint or wood stain, you will need to condition your paintbrush before using it. If you are using latex or acrylic paint, then dip your brush in water; if you are using a wood stain or oil-based paint, then dip your brush in paint thinner. Apply a thin coat of paint, let it dry, and then add another. Brushing or spraying the paint on in many, thin layers as opposed to one thick layer will give you a smoother finish and help reduce brush strokes. If you are applying one thick layer of paint, then wait at least 24 hours before applying a another coat. If you see brush strokes, you can smooth them out by going over them lightly with a foam roller. Keep rolling over the brush strokes while the paint is still wet until the surface is smooth. Start with the largest areas first, then move onto the details. Use long strokes when applying paint to large, flat areas. If your furniture is made of wood, then apply the paint with the grain, not against it. Paint the corners and details last. Consider sanding the piece before applying the last coat of paint. Sometimes, the paint will puddle or drip, no matter how careful you are. Other times, bits of dust may fall onto your piece and stick to the paint. If happens, take a fine grit sandpaper, such as 220 grit, and buff the surface. Then, wipe the piece down with a clean tack cloth, and apply one or two more coats of paint. Consider sealing your painted furniture. Some paint or stains come with a sealer already in them. Others will need to be sealed for additional protection. Look for a polycrylic or polyurethane sealer in either brush on or spray on form. You can also consider using a wax sealer, but keep in mind that the finish will not be as durable. If you are using chalkboard paint, do not use a sealer, as it will ruin the surface and prevent it from functioning. After you have applied the sealer, sure that you give the sealer enough time to cure before you use the furniture. This can take anywhere between 24 hours to 1 week. Reassemble your furniture. Once the paint and sealer has dried, put your furniture back together. Remove any taped-off areas, screw on the knobs, pulls and hinges, and reinsert the drawers and doors.

Choose your work area. Prepare your work area. Wear proper clothing. Determine what your furniture is made of. Consider what sort of paint you want to use. Decide what sort of finish do you want. Think about the final design. Remove drawers and any pieces you don't want painted. Fix any dents and scratches. Sand your furniture. Wipe your furniture down with a tack cloth. Apply a grey, paint primer to your furniture. Use sandpaper and tack cloth to remove any imperfections. Wait for your primer to dry. Choose your brushes and foam applicators. Condition your paint brush. Apply a thin coat of paint, let it dry, and then add another. Start with the largest areas first, then move onto the details. Consider sanding the piece before applying the last coat of paint. Consider sealing your painted furniture. Reassemble your furniture.

https://www.wikihow.com/Cure-a-Rabbit%27s-Foot

How to Cure a Rabbit's Foot

To cure a rabbit's foot, clean the foot thoroughly with warm water and antibacterial liquid soap. Next, fully submerge the foot in 70% isopropyl rubbing alcohol, let it soak for 48 hours, and rinse it off. Then, create a solution with 15 parts warm water to 1 part Borax and submerge the foot in the solution for 24 hours. Finally, remove the foot from the Borax solution, rinse it off, and let it air-dry completely to finish the curing process.

Clean the foot. If you have a rabbit's foot that you have got from a local farmer or from a rabbit that you have shot yourself, you can cure it and use it as a lucky charm. The first step is to thoroughly clean the foot to make sure that all the dirt, blood, and any little parasites in the fur are dealt with. Wash the foot in a tub of warm water with anti-bacterial liquid hand soap. Make sure you clean it thoroughly. Once it's cleaned, rinse it thoroughly to get rid of any soap. Squeeze out excess water from the foot and leave it dry out a little. Submerge it in rubbing alcohol. The next step is to submerge it in rubbing alcohol and leave it to sit for 48 hours. You should use 70% isopropyl rubbing alcohol. You can buy this online, or from a hardware store or a big supermarket. Place the foot into a jar and then pour in the rubbing alcohol. Make sure the foot is completely submerged in alcohol, and then screw on the lid. You could also use a zip lock bag instead of jar, but make sure it is secure and there are no leaks. Note the time and date of when you submerge the foot, and then leave it alone for 48 hours. Rinse it off. After 48 hours has passed, return to the foot and remove it from the rubbing alcohol. Give the foot a thorough rinse with water and make sure you have cleaned off any lingering alcohol. Squeezing the feet will help you to get out any alcohol that has seeped deeper into the fur. Keep the alcohol for next time. There is no need to throw away the alcohol. If you intend to cure another rabbit's foot in future, keep hold of the jar of alcohol and use it again. Make sure you label it clearly and keep somewhere safe and secure. Put it in a sodium tetraborate mixture. Once you have rinsed off the foot, you now need to submerge it in another mixture to complete the process. In the US, it is common to Borax, a detergent booster. This a sodium tetraborate, which will be branded differently depending on where in the world you are. You should be able to find an equivalent in the laundry section of your local supermarket. In a new jar, zip lock bag, or other container, mix 15 parts warm water to 1 part sodium tetraborate. Stir the powder into water well, and then place the foot in the solution. Leave it in the jar of sodium tetraborate solution for 24 hours to give the chemicals time to work on dehydrating the skin and tissues. Rinse it off and leave it to dry. After a day has passed, remove the foot from the solution and again thoroughly rinse it off, being sure to work out any of the remaining solution from the fur. Wash the foot in warm water until you feel the grittiness of the sodium tetraborate solution has been completely removed. Rub the foot dry with some paper towel so that there is no excess or dripping water. Then leave it out to dry completely in the air. You can dry a foot out in the sun or inside. A foot should dry out in a day or so, and then you will have a cured rabbit's foot. Cap the foot. Once the foot has dried off, it will have recovered its fluffiness and softness. To finish it off, or make it ready for a key chain, you will need to cap the foot. You could do with a variety of different things, such as a piece of leather or even an empty shell casing. Glue the foot into whatever you decide to use to cap it, and then leave it dry. If you intend to use it as a key chain, be sure you place a hook or loop through the cap.

Clean the foot. Submerge it in rubbing alcohol. Rinse it off. Keep the alcohol for next time. Put it in a sodium tetraborate mixture. Rinse it off and leave it to dry. Cap the foot.

https://www.wikihow.com/Moisturize-Before-Makeup

How to Moisturize Before Makeup

If you wear makeup, you should moisturize first to keep your foundation from looking caked-on and keep your skin healthy. Pick a moisturizer that's right for your skin type, like an oil-free or light moisturizer if you have oily skin or a heavier moisturizer if you have dry skin. If your foundation has moisturizer in it, then use a lighter moisturizer than you normally would. You may also need an under-eye primer if the thin skin under your eyes tends to dry out easily. Before putting your moisturizer on, wash your hands and face. Then, use your fingers to dab a small amount of moisturizer on your face. Spread the moisturizer outwards and pat it in with your fingers until your face is covered. Wait at least 5 minutes before putting makeup on so the moisturizer has time to set in and form a smooth surface over your skin.

Choose a moisturizer appropriate for your skin type. You can get moisturizer oil-free, extra heavy, or anywhere in between. Oil-free or light moisturizers are best for people with oily, combination, or normal skin. Heavier moisturizers are often necessary for dry skin, but they can be a slippery base for makeup. Heavy moisturizers add a dewy effect to your appearance. Avoid using dewy foundation on top of that, which can overdo it. You don't need to use the same moisturizer across your whole face. If you get dry patches in certain areas, use a heavy moisturizer on those spots. Check your foundation label. Foundation for dry skin usually has moisturizer in it already. If you plan to use this type of foundation, stick to a lighter moisturizer than you normally would. Try a moisturizing primer. If you find it difficult to put on makeup after moisturizer, try this 2-in-1 option. This product moisturizes your skin, while still providing a base that helps your makeup stay in place longer. Consider a separate under-eye primer. The thin skin around your eyes tends to dry out easily. If your eye makeup often cracks, look for a moisturizing under-eye primer as well. Although some facial primers are safe for the eye area (check the label), an under-eye primer is less likely to irritate this sensitive area. Remember to wear sun protection. Anytime you expect sun exposure (even on an overcast day), one of the products on your face should have sun protection. This could be your moisturizer, or your foundation. Aim for a Sun Protection Factor of at least 15. Wash your hands and face. Scrub your hands to avoid transferring anything to your face. Wash your face with water or your favorite facial cleanser. Don't scrub your skin raw; just wipe gently. Apply moisturizer. Dab on a small amount of moisturizer with your fingers. Spread outward and pat in the moisturizer with your fingers. Repeat until your face is covered, without putting any excess moisturizer on your skin. Wait at least five minutes. The moisturizer needs some time to form a smooth, even surface over your skin. Wait anywhere from five to thirty minutes before putting on makeup, or you may struggle with uneven application or even acne breakouts. Put on primer. If you haven't already put on moisturizing primer, you'll need a layer of primer so your makeup can stay on. Do your makeup. You can now put on makeup as you normally would. If you still encounter problems, here's a little troubleshooting advice: If your makeup has trouble staying in place, you may not be using enough moisturizer (or you may need to use a primer). If your makeup ends up mixing into the moisturizer when you apply it, decrease the amount of moisturizer or wait longer between moisturizer and makeup.

Choose a moisturizer appropriate for your skin type. Check your foundation label. Try a moisturizing primer. Consider a separate under-eye primer. Remember to wear sun protection. Wash your hands and face. Apply moisturizer. Wait at least five minutes. Put on primer. Do your makeup.

https://www.wikihow.com/Draw-a-Rectangle

How to Draw a Rectangle

To draw a rectangle, start by drawing a straight, horizontal line using a ruler. Then, draw a shorter vertical line that extends down from one end of the first line. Next, draw a horizontal line that extends off the bottom end of the vertical line. Make sure it's the same length as the first horizontal line you drew. Finally, draw a vertical line between the ends of the 2 horizontal lines to finish the rectangle.

Draw a straight, horizontal line using a ruler. Using a ruler will help you make sure that your line is straight, so that your rectangle turns out neat and even. Make the line however long you want your rectangle to be. This line will be the top of your rectangle, so draw it wherever you want the top to go. Make a shorter vertical line coming down from one end of the first line. Use the ruler to draw this line too, so that it's straight. The angle between this line and the first line should be 90 degrees. Make sure this line is shorter than the first line you drew. If it's the same length, you'll end up drawing a square instead of a rectangle. You can use a protractor to measure the angle between the vertical and horizontal lines. Draw a horizontal line coming off the bottom end of the vertical line. Make sure this line is straight like the first two lines and that it's the same length as the first horizontal line you drew. This will be the bottom of the rectangle. This horizontal line should be parallel with the horizontal line at the top of the rectangle. Draw a vertical line between the ends of the two horizontal lines. Use the ruler to make the line straight. This vertical line should be the same length as the first vertical line you drew on the other side of the rectangle. After you draw this line, your rectangle is finished! Color in your rectangle to make it pop. Now that your rectangle is finished, you can shade it in with pencil or color it with marker so that it stands out. You can also go over the perimeter of the rectangle with pen or black marker, so the lines are more visible.

Draw a straight, horizontal line using a ruler. Make a shorter vertical line coming down from one end of the first line. Draw a horizontal line coming off the bottom end of the vertical line. Draw a vertical line between the ends of the two horizontal lines. Color in your rectangle to make it pop.

https://www.wikihow.com/Be-a-Good-Debater

How to Be a Good Debater

To be a good debater, try to act confident, even if you're not, by making eye contact with your opponent and standing up straight, which can make your argument appear more believable. Also, remain calm at all times, and never shout or get angry since it will only make your argument seem weak. You should also make sure you're speaking clearly and loudly enough so your opponent and anyone else listening can understand what you're saying.

Follow the form, if debating formally. If you're going to be debating in a formal setting, such as for a class or for a club, you'll want to be sure you know how a debate actually works. Formal debates follow a formula, and you'll want to know that formula like the back of your hand so that you're prepared. It's also important because breaking from the formula can lose you points. Usually there is a statement and two or more teams or single debaters will be assigned to either agree or disagree with the idea. You'll then take turns making your points according to a set period of time. There are a couple of different debate styles (which determine the rules and how the debate works), so you'll need to know which one you're using in order to be clear on the rules. It's a good idea to look into this well in advance and do some research online. Look for words like “competitive debate”, “Parliamentary debate”, or “Oxford debate”. These are some of the styles of debate you might encounter. Keep calm. When you debate, stay calm. Don't start shouting or get angry. This will show weakness to your opponent. Instead, keep your voice even and keep your facial expression neutral. This makes it much harder for your opponent to find what buttons they can press to make you trip up. If you're having trouble staying calm, try focusing on your breathing for a minute or two. Speak clearly. When you talk, speak clearly so that people can understand you. Speaking clearly also makes you sound smarter and more confident. Speak clearly by using a loud enough volume that people can hear you and then enunciate your words. Don't mumble or slur your words but say each word deliberately and say each syllable carefully. It's easy to catch poor enunciation when reciting tongue twisters. Try this one: “How can a clam cram in a clean cream can?” Explain your logic. When you explain to someone how you arrived at the conclusion that you came to, deliberately and step by step, you're forcing their brain to think in the same way that yours does. As long as your reasoning is at least good on the surface, this can be one of the most effective ways to bring someone over to your side of the argument. Be respectful and fair. When you argue with someone, be respectful. Don't insult them, talk over them, or judge them. Doing this can be seen as a sign that your argument isn't very good, plus it makes people defensive and much less willing to listen to you or want to agree with you. You should also be fair in an argument. Don't distort the facts. Use evidence against them that is recent and directly related, not old and “water under the bridge”. A bad example of debating would look like: “Why should we listen to you? You broke the system last year when you were in charge of the project. You'd probably just ruin this too.” A good example of debating would look like: “I know you're really excited about this project but the situation is very sensitive. It would be better to use someone with more experience so that it can be done more efficiently.” Act confident. Although you don't have to actually be confident, acting confident can make you and your argument much more appealing and believable. When you don't act confident, you communicate (even if it's not true) that you don't think your argument is a very good one. You can do some simple, easy things to make yourself appear more confident, though. Make eye contact with your opponent, as well as people in your audience if you have one. Don't fidget, instead using your hands to talk or keep them pinned in front of you. Speak clearly and with purpose, avoiding filler language like “umm” and “ahh”. Just a few adjustments will have you seeming much more sure of yourself. Use arguments based on logic. Arguments based on logic, sometimes referred to as “logos” in the study of arguing, use examples and ideas which are rooted in simple, direct reasoning. These kinds of arguments are especially helpful when debating with someone who considers themselves smart and logical. They are also good for topics that are “serious” in nature, like politics and economics. Try to use facts, statistics, and real life examples to make logical arguments. An example argument would be: “Evidence has shown that rates of teen pregnancy have decreased as more comprehensive sex education has become mandatory in schools. You can see in this chart….” Use arguments based on emotions. Arguments based on emotions, sometimes referred to as “pathos” in the study of arguing, use appeals to people's heart and emotions. These kinds of arguments are especially helpful when debating with someone who is prone to strong emotions (showing heightened joy and easily visible sadness). They are also good for topics that are “human” in nature, like arguments about social justice, discrimination, or current events with great tolls on society (like the Israeli-Palestinian conflict). Try to draw on people's hopes and fears. Use personal stories and try to make a personal connection with either your opponent or your audience by comparing the situation to something that is close to them. An example argument would be: “Backing out now would pose an infinitely greater danger to us than if we stayed and tried to fix the problem. Untold lives could be lost if we leave but if we stay, then we can save lives.” Use arguments based on authority. Arguments based on authority, sometimes referred to as “ethos” in the study of arguing, use appeals to your authority and credibility or that of another who supports your ideas. These kinds of arguments are especially helpful when debating with someone who is not as experienced in the field or who has a particularly weak argument. They are also good for topics that are “academic” in nature, like arguments about medicine, science, or history. Try to establish your credentials and elaborate on your experience when using arguments like these. Make sure ahead of time that your opponent is not significantly more experienced than you. An example argument would be: “I've taught for over 30 years and I've seen all of these practices first hand. I know what works in the field and what doesn't. Ideals and real life are two very different things.” Do your research. The more prepared you are for a debate, the better you'll do. If you really want to guarantee a win as much as possible, do your research. When you know a topic backwards and forwards and from all angles, you'll be much better prepared to counter any argument your opponent might dream up. It's especially important to know the most common arguments for and against both sides of the issue. When you know what your opponent is likely to emphasize, you'll be able to explain why that's wrong. Avoid making websites like Wikipedia your main source of information. It's a good place to start but you should fill in your facts from sources that are experts in whatever topic you're trying to cover. For example, if you're going to debate about economics, don't quote a Wikipedia fact. Quote Alberto Alesina, one of the economics professors at Harvard and co-editor of a major academic journal on the topic. Look for logical fallacies. Logical fallacies are when the line of reasoning that someone uses is wrong. Even though the conclusion might be right, the way of getting there is wrong. This can be used to shed doubt on their conclusion, making your argument look better. There are lots of different kinds of logical fallacies and you'll want to study each one individually in order to learn to recognize and counter it. By pointing out logical fallacies in your opponent's argument, you force them to either accept them and reduce the credibility of their argument, or use their precious time to try and argue that their argument isn't illogical. One of the most common examples of a logical fallacy is called "ad hominem", and is about attacking the person making the argument rather than the argument itself. This is often seen in politics. Think of it like "this guy is a jerk" vs. "there is no evidence that this plan will work". Another common logical fallacy is called "black or white". This is when an argument is presented as having only two options, with the outcome they want being presented as the best one. This ignores middle ground and other routes, which may make more sense. Think of it like when you mom says, "You can get married and have children or you can die old and alone." There's probably some wiggle room in there, right? Look for weaknesses in their argument. There are lots of ways in which someone's argument can be weak. If you find those weaknesses, you can point them out, making your argument look stronger by comparison. Try: Look for places where they've not thought their course of action through to its logical conclusion. An example of this is the recent Supreme Court decision that companies can have a religion and that employees should be subject to the rules of that religion. That's maybe more acceptable if the company is traditional Christian than if it's outrageous Pastafarians, right? Another sign of a weak argument is if they skim over a crucial point and use very little evidence to back it up. This is usually an indication that there is no evidence and they're mainly drawing the conclusion that they want to draw. For example, someone arguing that guns prevent mass shootings and only using one example in favor of their argument is clearly missing how many examples go in the opposite direction. You want to lock in on that and talk about the evidence they passed over. Keep the topic on track. This is when your opponent starts arguing about a subject separate from the topic you're supposed to be debating. When a debate gets off track, that can be a sign that your opponent is running out of solid reasoning and beginning to break down. Keep an argument on track and you'll be more likely to win. Ask yourself if the current argument ties directly back to the topic you're supposed to be dealing with. If it doesn't support one side or the other, the argument is off track. An example of this would be if you are arguing about whether guns prevent mass shootings and they start arguing that anyone that doesn't like guns is racist. Be forceful in turning the argument around. Call them out for changing the topic. This will point the behavior out to your audience and can make you look more confident and correct.

Follow the form, if debating formally. Keep calm. Speak clearly. Explain your logic. Be respectful and fair. Act confident. Use arguments based on logic. Use arguments based on emotions. Use arguments based on authority. Do your research. Look for logical fallacies. Look for weaknesses in their argument. Keep the topic on track.

https://www.wikihow.com/Cut-the-Neckline-of-a-Shirt

How to Cut the Neckline of a Shirt

To cut a scoop neck into a shirt, first, fold the t-shirt to align the shoulder seams at the neckline. Flatten the fabric on a table to remove any wrinkles and make your cut more accurate. Then, use a ruler to decide where you want your neckline to be. For example, if you want a higher neckline, use a piece of chalk to make a mark at 1 inch. If you want a lower neckline, make a mark at 2 or 3 inches. Once you've made your mark, use sharp fabric scissors to cut a curve following the shape of the collar from one end of the shirt to the other. Make sure to cut both layers of the shirt at the same time, or else the neckline might turn out crooked. After it's cut, gently pull on the neckline to help roll the fabric, which will hide any jagged edges.

Fold the t-shirt to align the shoulder seams at the neckline. Hold the shirt by the collar with one hand at the front of the collar and one on the tag. When you hold the shirt, it should create a fold down the center of the front and back of the shirt. Then, lay the shoulder down on a flat surface to continue working. Try not to stretch out the collar by pulling it as you're holding it. This can warp the fabric and make the cut look uneven. Flatten the fabric on a table to remove wrinkles and creases. Position the folded shirt so you can easily access the collar with a pair of scissors. Then, press down on the fabric along the collar to make sure the collar and the area you are planning to cut are flat. If you want to make sure the shoulder seams are aligned, lift up the collar to check that they are stacked on top of each other. It's important for the seams to be aligned because the new neckline will be crooked if they aren't. Measure 1 in (2.5 cm) or more below the bottom of the collar. Use a ruler to decide where you want your neckline to lay on the crease at the center of the front of the shirt. When you find a suitable spot, mark it with a pin or draw a line with a piece of chalk. This will be the place on the shirt where you start cutting into the fabric for both a scoop neck and a v-neck. You can make your neckline as low or as high as you want, depending on your preference. Just make sure you start measuring below the bottom of the collar, rather than the top. You'll be cutting different shapes for both a scoop neck and a v-neck, but for both types of necklines, you'll start cutting along the crease at the front of the shirt. Trim the fabric in a curve following the shape of the collar for a scoop neck. Using a pair of sharp fabric scissors, make long cuts in the fabric in the same general shape as the original neckline. Keep cutting all the way to the back of the shirt where the tag is located, and then pull the collar off of the shirt. This will make the neckline wider and looser for a flattering scoop neck shirt. As you're cutting, make sure you have both layers of the shirt in the scissors. If you cut one side of the shirt at a time, you run the risk of the neckline being crooked. If your cuts are too short, the edge of the fabric can become jagged. Try to make longer cuts as you curve the scissors and keep the fabric flat. Cut in a straight line up to the shoulder seams to make a v-neck. Position your scissors at the point that you marked and hold the fabric taught. Orient the shirt so that your scissors are directed at the shoulder seams, which is where your v-neck will start. Make long, straight cuts up to the seams and through the collar. For a v-neck, make sure your cuts are as long as possible to avoid curves in the neckline. It may be helpful to hold a ruler next to the scissors to keep them straight as you cut the fabric. Pull on the neckline to loosen the fabric and roll the edges. Lift up the shirt by the shoulders and gently stretch the fabric. Hold the neckline in a few different places and pull on it to ensure that the fabric rolls under slightly to hide any jagged edges. Be sure not to stretch or rip the shirt by pulling too hard. Just gently tug on the neckline fabric a few times. If you still have a few jagged edges after pulling on the fabric, run the shirt through the washer and dryer to soften the fabric and hide the edges. Fold the shirt by lining up the shoulder seams at the collar. Hold the shirt with one hand at the front of the collar and one hand at the back of the collar, near the tag. This should make a crease down the center of the front of the shirt and the center of the back of the shirt. Then, lay the shirt on a flat surface. For this type of neckline, you'll only be cutting the front of the shirt up to the shoulder seams, so the back part doesn't need to be perfectly aligned. Use a piece of chalk to mark where you want the bottom point of your v-neck. Flatten the fabric with your hand and make sure the seams are aligned. Then, pick a point along the crease at the front of the shirt where you want the bottom of your v-neck to hit, and draw a short line with a piece of chalk. Most choker shirts have a 2–3 inches (5.1–7.6 cm) v-neck. If you have a logo or design on the front of your shirt, you may want to make sure you aren't going to be cutting off the printing. Mark a point between the middle of the collar and the shoulder seam. Use your piece of chalk to mark a point between the center of the collar and one of the shoulder seams. Make sure the point is closer to the seam if you want a shallower v-neck, or pick a spot about halfway between the middle of the collar and the seam for a more triangular v-neck. Make sure the point is on the bottom part of the collar, since you won't be removing the collar from the shirt. Cut a straight line from the bottom point to the collar. Use a pair of sharp scissors to make long, straight cuts between the bottom of the v-neck and the point that you marked below the collar. Try to make as few cuts as possible to prevent jagged edges and don't cut into the collar. As you're cutting, make sure you have both layers of the shirt in the scissors. If you want to make a more rounded cut-out in the neckline, you can cut a curved line between the two points. Trim just below the collar to cut out the fabric triangle. Position your scissors along the crease, just below the collar of the shirt. Make long cuts, following the curve of the collar, until you reach the point that you had marked along the collar. Pull the piece of fabric away from the shirt to reveal the cutout. If you want to customize the shirt even further, you can make it sleeveless. Tug on the edges of the triangle gently to roll the edges. Put your fingers inside of the cut-out and gently pull the fabric to either side. Then, hold the collar in place and pull the bottom point of the v-neck down to roll in the edges of the fabric, hiding any jagged edges. When you're pulling the fabric, make sure you don't pull too hard and rip the shirt. If the fabric won't roll under, run the shirt through the washer and dryer to soften the fabric, making it easier to hide any edges. Lay the shirt flat on its back and smooth the fabric. For a cold-shoulder shirt, position the shirt on a flat surface with the front facing toward you. Use your hands to flatten the fabric around the collar and on the sleeves, which is where you'll be making most of the cuts for the shirt. You can use a long-sleeve or short-sleeve shirt for this. It's best to use a shirt that has shoulder seams, since they'll help guide your cutting. Make a 2–3 in (5.1–7.6 cm) cut around the collar line on both shoulders. Working with one sleeve at a time, make a cut from the top of the shoulder down about 2 inches (5.1 cm), following the shape of the collar. Cut to about ¼ of the way between the top of the shoulder and the center of the front of the collar, and then do the same to the back side of the shoulder. If you want the shoulder holes to be larger, you can cut to about halfway between the top of the shoulder and the middle of the collar on both sides of the shirt. Mark a spot that is 4 inches (10.2 cm) away from the collar, towards the shoulder. Use chalk or your finger to help you keep track of this spot. It can be helpful to use a ruler to measure 4 inches (10.2 cm) to help make your cut accurate. The marking should be at the very top of your shirt. Mark a spot that's further away to create a bigger hole for your shoulder, or if you're working with a larger-sized shirt. Cut a diagonal line from the marked spot to your first cut at the collar. Place your scissors on the top of the shoulder, and cut in a line to the end point of your first cut on the front part of the collar. Cut the diagonal line out of only the front part of the shirt. Then, cut along the natural shoulder line to cutout a piece of triangle-shaped fabric. Once you're done, repeat this process with the back of the shirt on this same sleeve. This sleeve of the shirt is finished, but you still have to cut the other cold shoulder. Make sure the fabric stays smooth and flat as you work! Align the triangle with the cut on the other sleeve and use it as a guide. Place the triangle of fabric so that one point lines up with the end of the cut on the front of the collar and the other lines up with the back. Then, cut along the edges of the fabric to make sure both shoulders have the same sized hole. When you're done cutting, you should have 2 triangles of fabric from the shoulders of the shirt, and the collar should still be intact around the neck of the shirt. Tug on the sides of the shoulder holes to stretch them slightly. Pull on each side of the triangle-shaped hole to make the fabric looser and to roll the edges, hiding any jagged points from the scissors. Do this for both sides of the shirt to make sure the holes are roughly the same size. If you want to make the fabric softer and widen the holes, wash and dry the shirt to roll the edges of the hole even further.

Fold the t-shirt to align the shoulder seams at the neckline. Flatten the fabric on a table to remove wrinkles and creases. Measure 1 in (2.5 cm) or more below the bottom of the collar. Trim the fabric in a curve following the shape of the collar for a scoop neck. Cut in a straight line up to the shoulder seams to make a v-neck. Pull on the neckline to loosen the fabric and roll the edges. Fold the shirt by lining up the shoulder seams at the collar. Use a piece of chalk to mark where you want the bottom point of your v-neck. Mark a point between the middle of the collar and the shoulder seam. Cut a straight line from the bottom point to the collar. Trim just below the collar to cut out the fabric triangle. Tug on the edges of the triangle gently to roll the edges. Lay the shirt flat on its back and smooth the fabric. Make a 2–3 in (5.1–7.6 cm) cut around the collar line on both shoulders. Mark a spot that is 4 inches (10.2 cm) away from the collar, towards the shoulder. Cut a diagonal line from the marked spot to your first cut at the collar. Align the triangle with the cut on the other sleeve and use it as a guide. Tug on the sides of the shoulder holes to stretch them slightly.

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How to Cut a Lace Front Wig

To cut a lace front wig, start by placing it on a wig head. If you don't have one, you can hold it in your hand instead. Then, cut the hair close to the hairline where the silicone band is so the silicone doesn't show. Once you've cut around the silicone band, snip the rest of the hair in a straight line across the wig, starting at the sideburns. Keep as close to the hairline as you can without cutting the wispy hairs.

Place the wig on a wig head for easy cutting. A wig head is a shaped head where you can store wigs or work on them. Putting the wig on it makes it easy to cut the lace off. Put your hands inside the wig with your knuckles facing up and start at the back to pull the wig over the head. If you're using a wig head, it can help to clip the hair back out of the way. If you don't have a wig head, you can hold the wig in your hand while you cut. If you have a slightly curved hairline, you can place the wig on your head to judge how you want to cut it. Use sharp scissors for a neat line. The sharper your scissors are, the more likely you are to get an even, clean line. Also, make sure you're holding the lace somewhat taut as you cut, which will make it easier to cut. If you're holding the wig in your hand, turn it as needed to make it easier to cut a straight line. Cut close to the hairline where the silicone band is. Some lace has a silicone band around it that attaches to the hairline on both sides. If you don't cut that off close to the hairline, it's going to show up when you wear your wig. The silicone band will run parallel to the hairline, then curve into it. Where the band runs into the hairline, cut the lace much closer to remove the silicone band completely. Snip the rest of the lace near the hairline. Starting at the sideburns, cut the lace in a straight line across the wig. Get as close to the hairline as you can without cutting the wispy hairs. You can leave up to 0.25 inches (6.4 mm) of lace in front of the hairline, though some stylists think this technique allows too much of the lace to show. Use the hairline of the wig as your guide for cutting the line. If you need to add a bit of curve for your hairline, only add a slight variation, such as dipping down a bit in the middle for a widow's peak. Wet the hair and divide it into 3 sections. To make it easier to pluck, spray down the hairline to dampen it. Divide the hair at the temples by creating parts with a comb. Draw the first part from the right temple to the back of the head and the second part from the left temple to the back of the head. You now have 3 sections. Clip the hair back in these sections. It helps to pin the hair to a wig head. Work with one section at a time. Separate the first row of hair from one section. Run the end of a rat-tail comb under the first row of hair in a single section, working from the temple down through the sideburns. The row should only be 3-6 hairs thick. Unclip all of the hair, then clip everything back again except for the first row you just separated out. Pluck every other section with tweezers. Going along the row you just sectioned out, pull out every other small bit of hair, about 3-6 hairs at a time. In other words, pluck 3-6 hairs, then leave 3-6 hairs, and so on, going across the row. Use your hand to pull the hair away from the wig and throw it out. You're trying to create a more natural-looking hairline by varying the edge of it. Section out the next row. Separate out another section of hair from the clipped part with a rat-tail comb, making it 3-4 hairs thick. Re-clip the rest of the hair in place, minus the row you just pulled out and the row you plucked underneath it. Keep the new row separated from the one you just plucked. Pluck hair from the new row you sectioned out. Pull out every other section of hair in the row using your tweezers, taking out 3-6 hairs at time. Skip the next 3-6 hairs, then pluck the next set. Remove the hair with your hand to toss it out. Keep going until you reach the end of the row. Do 3-4 rows this way. Repeat the plucking across the other 2 sections. Pluck the other 2 sections the same way, taking a little hair out of the clip at a time to pluck. Make sure you're going all the way to the end of the row in each section, so you don't leave parts unplucked. In the middle section, work from temple to temple. Clip all the hair back to pluck more sections out. Pull all the hair back again, including what you've plucked already. Look for more variation in the hairline now. Pluck along the hairline sporadically, moving along the hairline back and forth, to help add more variation. Just use your tweezers to pull out a small section of hair here and there. Don't stay in one area too long, as you'll create bald spots.

Place the wig on a wig head for easy cutting. Use sharp scissors for a neat line. Cut close to the hairline where the silicone band is. Snip the rest of the lace near the hairline. Wet the hair and divide it into 3 sections. Separate the first row of hair from one section. Pluck every other section with tweezers. Section out the next row. Pluck hair from the new row you sectioned out. Repeat the plucking across the other 2 sections. Clip all the hair back to pluck more sections out.

https://www.wikihow.com/Make-a-Stone-Axe

How to Make a Stone Axe

With the right tools and materials, you can make your own stone axe right at home. You'll need a large rock with perpendicular edges, a second large rock you can hold comfortably in your hand, a piece of wood 2 to 3 feet long for the handle, and cord made of bark or wet rawhide. First, you'll need to hammer the rock with the perpendicular edges with the second rock to shape it into an axe head. Once you've got the right shape, wet the stones and rub them together to polish the head. Then, cut a slit in one end of your wood, slide your axe head in, and secure it with the rope.

Find a large rock with perpendicular edges. Look for a large rock on the edge of a stream or a river, also known as slab rocks. Avoid porous rocks that have holes or cavities in them, as well as rocks that have cracks. A solid rock with no visible flaws, preferably long and thick, is what you want to use for your axe. This will make it easier to pound at the edges of the rock without injuring your fingers, hands, or other body parts. You will also need to find a large hammering rock, which you will use to shape the source rock. Look for a hammering rock that you can hold comfortably in your hand, with an even rock face. Using this method will create a knapped axe head, where the axe head is shaped by hitting it with another rock. Use a river rock. Another option is to use a river rock that is hard and contains fine grained stone. Many river rocks are rounded in shape and smooth to the touch, unlike slab rocks, which are often jagged and square shaped. You can find river rocks at the bottom of the river or lining a stream. Look for a river rock that is relatively close to the size you'd like to have for your axe. You will also need a hammering rock to slowly peck away at the river rock until it is shaped into a suitable axe. A quartzite rock would make an ideal hammering rock for your river rock axe head. This will create a pecked stone axe head, where the river rock is chipped at very slowly, or pecked, with another rock. Look for freshly harvested or “green” wood. The handle for your stone axe will need to be made of freshly harvested wood, or wood that is from a young tree. This will ensure the wood can be bent and shaped without breaking. Privet stem is ideal, if available. You can also use wood from a small, young tree. You will need a piece of “green” wood that is at least two to three feet long. Look for a piece of wood that is not too wide or too narrow. The handle should be wide enough to accommodate the axe head, but narrow enough to hold in your hand. You can try out the length of the wood by holding it in your hand. You want the axe to be long enough to hold comfortably and swing behind you. Get cord made of bark or wet rawhide. You will need strong cord to secure the stone axe head to the axe handle. You can find cord made of bark at outdoor supply stores. Wet rawhide can also be found in outdoor supply stores. Hit the source rock with the hammering rock. Before you can shape the axe head, you will need to hit off a piece of the source rock that will become your axe head. Strike the upper edge of the source rock with the large hammer. Focus on striking off flakes and slabs of rock as you hit the source rock. Use short, swift hits against the source rock, lifting your arm a few feet from the source rock and coming down steadily with the hammering rock. You can attempt to hit off a large slab that can be used as your axe head or hit down the source rock until it becomes the right size for the axe head. Be careful as you hit the source rock, as shards of rock will likely fly around. It is better to work slow and steady here so you do not have chunks of rock flying around you. For safety purposes, you may want to wear safety gloves and safety googles to protect yourself from flying rock shards. The goal is to have an axe head that is the size of your palm or a bit larger. Be patient, as it may take several hours to hit down the source rock until it is the ideal size for the axe head. Peck the river rock with the hammering rock. If you are using a river rock, you will need to take your time when pecking it down with the hammering rock. The grains of the river rock must be removed slowly as you can damage or split the rock if you are not careful. Work on one small area of the rock at a time and use short, swift strokes to carefully peck away at the river rock. It can take several hours to peck away at the river rock. You should work outdoors in a comfortable area. Be careful of small pieces of river rock flying toward you as you peck the rock. If you work slow and steady, they should not be a major hazard. Form the cutting edge of the axe head. Once you have hit or pecked down the rock until it is about the size of your palm, you will need to form the cutting edge of the axe head so it is sharp. The axe head should taper down toward the cutting edge. The cutting edge should be a similar thickness to a steel axe, with a narrow edge. Hold the axe head so it is vertical, resting on the wide side of the rock. Use the hammering rock to form a narrow end of the axe head by hitting the rock in small, short movements. You want this end to dip down so it forms a narrow edge. This edge will become the cutting edge of the axe head. Polish and sharpen the axe head on a stone with water. Polishing the rock will help it to stay durable and sharp. You can use the leftover source rock if there is a slab that is thick enough and wide enough to rub the axe head against it. Alternatively, you can look for a large flat piece of rock that has an even surface, as this will act as your polishing rock. Pour a handful of water on the stone and start to rub the wide, flat side of the axe head against the stone. Use both hands to rub the stone back and forth, making sure to keep the polish rock wet with water. Polish down all sides of the axe head so it appears even and smooth on all sides. This could take a couple of hours so be patient and take your time. You may also want to use a smaller rock to polish the cutting edge of the rock. Make sure the axe head is wet as you use the small rock along the cutting edge of the rock, rubbing until the cutting edge appears smooth and even. This will mean it is also sharp enough to chop through wood and other plant matter. Split the axe handle and insert the axe head. One method of attaching the axe head to the handle is to split the handle down the middle, forming a gap large enough to fit the axe head. You should try to create a split that is symmetrical and not leaning to one side. You can do this using a knife or using a sharp stone. You may want to try to knock or hit away at the top of the handle slowly with the sharp stone, making sure the wood is soft and “green” so it does not break. If you are using a knife, you can carve out a symmetrical split in the handle, making sure the width of one both sides of the handle are the same. Once the split is large enough to fit the axe head, gently slide the axe head into the split. Soak the top of the handle and wrap it around the axe head. Another method is to soak the top of the handle in water so it is soft and pliable. Then, you can bend the wood around the axe head so it is attached to the handle. If the top of the handle is very thick, you may want to thin it out using a knife or a sharp stone. This can then make it easier to bend the wood. You will need to ensure the wood is very soft and flexible to use this method of attachment. You may want to work slowly and bend the top of the handle in increments so it does not break. Use cord made of bark or wet rawhide to secure the axe head. Whether you use the split method or the wrap method, you will need to secure the axe head to the handle so it does not fall out when you use the axe. You can use cord made of bark, such as hibiscus bark, or wet rawhide, if you have access to rawhide. You should twist the cord so it is strong and durable. Do this by looping one piece of cord over the other to form a twisted cord. The twisted cord should be long enough to wrap around the axe head several times. Wrap the cord tightly around the axe head, crossing the cord over so it forms an “X” shape on the axe head. Do this twice and then tie the cord around the handle several times. Burn a hole through the axe handle and insert the axe head. This method requires access to a fire, but it does not involve cord and can be a useful way to secure the axe head well in the axe handle. To use this method, you will need to use a sharp rock and a piece of wood to hammer in a hole a few inches from the top of the handle. You can also use a knife if you have access to one. You want a hole that is wide enough to fit the axe head. You can measure this by holding the axe head against the side of the handle and marking the width of the axe head on the handle. You will then need to heat up a long piece of wood in a fire until it is burning and smoking. Blow on it until you have a hot point on the wood. Run the hot point around the hole on the handle to smooth out the hole and shape it so it fits the axe head well. Once you have a well shaped hole, place the axe head into the hole, sharpened edge facing upward. Use a piece of wood to knock the axe head into the handle. Hold the axe head with one hand and make a few swift knocks on the axe head with the piece of wood until the axe head is in place. You should check that there are small gaps of space between the sides of the axe head and the hole in the handle. Small gaps are good, as this will prevent the handle from splitting when you use the axe. Chop at the right angle. Stone axes are not like steel axes and cannot be struck at the same angle. Chop a few degrees off of 90º degrees of the wood. This steeper angle prevents side-slap, which can break your stone head. If the piece of wood that you are striking is sitting horizontal, swing the axe slightly off of a direct vertical drop. You may use an anvil, which is a wooden block, underneath the object that you are striking. This will help keep the object from bouncing and increase the efficiency of your axe. Keep a safe distance when using the axe. Stone axes cause debris to fly further than their steel counterparts. A stone axe wedges into the initial cut with a lot of force and can cause material to fly, either left or right, nearly 40 feet. Keep any bystanders behind you or in front of you at a safe distance of at least 10 feet or more. Depending on how large your stone axe and how forceful your swing, debris can fly with enough velocity to seriously injure someone. Protect your axe with a sheath. Transport your stone axe with a protective leather sheath. A leather sheath works well in preventing nicks. The sheath can be custom made at a local leather goods store. You never know what may fall against your axe so always keep it protected. Keep the stone axe head secure. The stone axe head must remain tight against the handle. If it becomes loose, the axe head will hit against axe handle and object and may break from the dual impact. This is known as a “side-slap”. If you need to remove the axe head, replace it exactly as it was because you may break the handle if you put it in backwards. You may create a crease to easily find the front of the axe. A crease is a small scratch mark near the front of the axe stone. If you can't see it, it may be easier to feel. Make sure you create a crease that's easy to distinguish. You will need to be able to find it if your axe head is knocked out or removed. Peck and ground down any nicks or gouges in the axe. If you use the axe on a rocky surface, there is a high chance of you nicking or gouging the axe head against that surface. Unlike steel axes, stone axes need to be pecked or grounded down to remove the nick or gouge and to preserve the cutting angle. You must maintain the correct angle edge on a stone axe because it will break if it's too low. If the angle is too high, your stone axe won't cut. Oil the axe handle to prevent damage. Use fine oil to keep your handle from drying too fast. Extra virgin oil works well. You may also oil your handles twice before storing. You want to oil your handle to help prevent any damage.

Find a large rock with perpendicular edges. Use a river rock. Look for freshly harvested or “green” wood. Get cord made of bark or wet rawhide. Hit the source rock with the hammering rock. Peck the river rock with the hammering rock. Form the cutting edge of the axe head. Polish and sharpen the axe head on a stone with water. Split the axe handle and insert the axe head. Soak the top of the handle and wrap it around the axe head. Use cord made of bark or wet rawhide to secure the axe head. Burn a hole through the axe handle and insert the axe head. Chop at the right angle. Keep a safe distance when using the axe. Protect your axe with a sheath. Keep the stone axe head secure. Peck and ground down any nicks or gouges in the axe. Oil the axe handle to prevent damage.

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How to Remove a Stain from a Pair of Jeans

To remove a stain from your jeans, lay them on a surface you don't mind getting dirty, like a bath tub. If you're trying to get rid of a blood stain, combine a teaspoon of salt with cold water, dip a rag in the mixture, and gently blot the stain until it vanishes. To get rid of grease, dab the area with a dry paper towel, then cover it with baby powder or talc. After you've left the powder on for up to a day, wipe it off with a dry paper towel before putting your jeans in the laundry on the highest setting they can cope with.

Resist the instinct to immediately rub the stain with water. This is particularly important if you think the stain might be oil-based or grease. Oil repels water, which means that pouring H20 on an oil stain could permanently set the stain making it almost impossible to remove it later. Do not launder your jeans before treating the stain. This is a common mistake that should be avoided. Once the stain on your jeans comes in contact with water, it might actually become more difficult to remove it if the laundering doesn't get rid of it, that is. Lay out your jeans on an area that you don't mind staining. It's important to find a surface on which to place your stained garment. Make sure that it's okay if that surface gets dirty or otherwise compromised. Sometimes, while removing stains, the garment's color can fade through, and get onto whatever is beneath. The bathtub might be a place to consider. Get an old, but clean, rag or cloth. Depending on the stain, you'll be doing a fair amount of blotting. Old socks, T-shirts, and/or kitchen rags will do just fine as long as they're clean and preferably of light color. There's always a chance that the rag's color could seep onto your stained jeans, which would defy our present objective. Get a medium-sized plastic tub. You'll likely have to soak your garment before laundering it, and a medium sized, plastic tub (or bowl) will work great for that purpose. Treat the stain on your jeans sooner rather than later. The longer a stain is left untreated, the tougher it'll be to get rid of it. While you might not be able to take your jeans off in the middle of dinner, treating it as soon as you get home is a good way to go. Combine a teaspoon of salt with a cup of cold water. If the stain is very fresh, get a hold of some club soda instead of plain, cold water. Stir the mixture until the salt has somewhat dissolved in the water. Dip your rag/cloth into the saltwater mixture. Make sure a good part of the rag/cloth is saturated with the saltwater. Gently blot and wipe the stain until it has vanished. Try blotting alone first. If you see no results just from that action, try wiping the stain. Alternate between blotting and wiping until the stain disappears. You can also turn your garment inside out and flush the stain from the back with cold club soda and salt. If this didn't work for your blood stain, go ahead an try the next steps below. Fill a bowl or cup with a quart of cold water. Add two tablespoons of table salt or the same quantity of ammonia. Mix the ingredients. If the blood stain is dry and no longer fresh, pour the water and salt/ammonia mixture into a plastic tub, and soak the stained part of your jeans in it anywhere from thirty minutes to overnight. You can occasionally check on the stain to observe its progress. Do not use warm water as that'll actually set the stain instead of removing it. If these steps didn't get rid of your stain, try any of the ones below. Soak the stained part of your jeans in cold water for a minute or so. This method should work quite well on old and set-in stains. After you've soaked your jeans in cold water, wring them out and place them in a plastic bag with two cups of lemon juice and half a cup of table salt. Let your garment soak for about ten minutes, then hang your jeans outside to dry. Once they're dry, put them in your regular laundry cycle. Note that lemon juice can lighten your garments color. It's best to use this method on light or white jeans. Make a paste out of meat tenderizer. Due to its ability to break down proteins, meat tenderizer can be an effective blood stain remover. Use a quarter teaspoon of the meat tenderizer, add a little cold water, and mix it into a paste. Work the paste into the blood stain. Let it set in for about fifteen minutes, then rinse out your jeans. You can get meat tenderizer in any convenience store. If none of the above steps worked on your blood stain, give the last one below a chance. Get some hairspray. Hairspray can be another effective product to get rid of blood stains. Saturate the stained part with the hair product, and let it sit for about five minutes. Then, get a damp rag and gently wipe the stain clean. Blot the stain gently with a dry paper towel. Especially if the stain is fresh, your first instinct might be to wipe the stain with water. But as mentioned, H20 will only set the stain as oil repels water. A dry paper towel will instead soak up excess oil. This method might not be enough for big or deep-set stains. Try the steps below if the paper towel didn't fully absorb your stain. Cover the stain with baby powder or talc. This method is good for fresh and old stains. Powders efficiently absorb oil and can get rid of most oil-based stains. Particularly if your stain is just oil. Simply saturate the stain with baby powder or talc, and let the powder do its magic for as long as possible - up to an entire day. Then, lightly brush the powder off (with a dry paper towel, or toothbrush), and launder your jeans in the hottest temperature the garment care instructions allow. Use dish detergent. Due to its high level of surfactants, dish detergent is particularly successful at getting rid of grease and oil stains. Dab a drop or two onto your stain, and add a little water. With a rag/cloth, gently wipe the stain with the detergent and water until the stain is gone. Then, throw your jeans in the wash and launder them as usual. If you're on the go, the next step might be easier to implement. Use artificial sweeteners. They'll do a good job at removing oil and grease stains. Simply dab the stain with a little bit of the powder and a dry paper towel. Artificial sweeteners are particularly good when you're out and about. If none of the above steps worked for you, go ahead and try this last option below. Get a hold of white vinegar. Pour a small amount of undiluted white vinegar on a paper towel. Blot the stain right before washing your jeans.This method works best on old stains. Stay away from water. Most makeup , like lip-stick or mascara, is oil-based which means that water will help the stain set, and make it harder to remove it. Brush the stain off gently. Some makeup isn't liquid, which means that it's sometimes possible to lightly brush a lip-stick or mascara stain off before it seeps into the fabric. But be very careful, as you don't want to grind the stain deeper into your jeans. If this wasn't enough, go ahead and try the next steps below. Use shaving cream. Shaving cream is especially useful for foundation spills. Just cover the stain with some shaving cream, and toss your garment into the wash. As an alternative to this step, you might consider the next one. Get some hair spray. If you're dealing with lipstick stains, hairspray can be quite effective at removing spills and smudges. Saturate the stained part of your jeans with the hair product for about fifteen minutes. Then blot it with a damp rag or cloth until the stain is gone. If hairspray makes you cringe, or you don't tolerate the smell, skip to the method below. Use dish detergent. If you're dealing with spray tan or tinted moisturizer spots, make a mixture of warm water and a little dish detergent in a cup. Dip in a sponge and then gently blot your jeans' stain with it until your garment is clean. Use vinegar. Concoct a mixture of two parts white vinegar, and one part water (cold or warm). Pour the mixture onto the stain, and let it soak overnight. Then, wash your garment as you normally would. Some people can't stand the smell of vinegar. If that's the case for you, skip ahead to one of the following options below. Get some baking soda. Create a paste out of baking soda and warm water. Use just enough baking soda and water to make a paste-like texture. Then, get an clean toothbrush and firmly apply the paste to the area. Gently scrub back and forth, then let the stain sit for a few hours. Finally, rinse the stain. Crush three Aspirin pills. Put them in a cup. Then, add about two tablespoons of water until the mixture becomes paste-like. Apply it onto the stain, and let it sit for an hour. Rinse the stained part of the garment. Get some lemon juice. Lightly sprinkle salt onto the stain. Then squeeze some lemon juice onto the stain until it's saturated. Rub the stain until it's gone, and then launder your jeans. This is a great preventative measure as well. You could use the mixture on shirts you know you'll sweat in (like gym shirts). Keep in mind that lemon juice might lighten your jeans' color. Get a hold of white wine. It might seem counter intuitive, but white wine actually works great on red wine spots (they neutralize one another). Simply pour white wine over the red wine spot right before doing laundry. Then, toss your jeans in and wash normally. If this didn't work for you, try one of the steps below. Use table salt. Pour a little bit of salt onto the stain and let it sit for about five minutes. Rub the stain with a rag/cloth while rinsing it out with cold water, or club soda. Repeat this action until the stain vanishes. Then, wash your jeans. Get some eggs out. Egg yolks work particularly well on coffee stains. Mix one egg yolk with a couple of drops of rubbing alcohol and warm water. Take a sponge and apply the mixture to the coffee spot. Let it sit for a couple of minutes, then rinse. Wash your jeans as usual. Use club soda. Mix club soda and a teaspoon of salt in a cup, then apply it directly to the stain. Let it soak in overnight for best results. As previously mentioned, avoid all types of water on greasy stains. Club soda and salt work especially well on coffee stains. Keep it very simple for plain dirt stains. Turn your jeans inside out, and just flush out the spot from behind. Simply apply tepid water to the stain with a clean rag/cloth until the stain disappears. If this step wasn't enough to make your stain disappear, try one or more of the following steps below. Use shampoo. For old and deep-set stains, put your jeans in a plastic tub filled with warm water. Put some shampoo on a sponge, and scrub the stain vigorously while it's soaking in water. Repeat until the spot is gone. Add vinegar to your regular laundry cycle. Pour a cup of white vinegar to your laundry cycle, and run your wash. Adding white vinegar to your laundry acts similarly to bleach, but it's less aggressive. Note: this trick is only meant for white jeans. Brush the dirt stain lightly with a toothbrush. If the stain is fresh, and most importantly, not from completely liquid dirt you might be able to lightly brush the dirt of your jeans fabric. But be careful as rough brushing might help the dirt penetrate into the jeans.

Resist the instinct to immediately rub the stain with water. Do not launder your jeans before treating the stain. Lay out your jeans on an area that you don't mind staining. Get an old, but clean, rag or cloth. Get a medium-sized plastic tub. Treat the stain on your jeans sooner rather than later. Combine a teaspoon of salt with a cup of cold water. Dip your rag/cloth into the saltwater mixture. Gently blot and wipe the stain until it has vanished. Fill a bowl or cup with a quart of cold water. Soak the stained part of your jeans in cold water for a minute or so. Make a paste out of meat tenderizer. Get some hairspray. Blot the stain gently with a dry paper towel. Cover the stain with baby powder or talc. Use dish detergent. Use artificial sweeteners. Get a hold of white vinegar. Stay away from water. Brush the stain off gently. Use shaving cream. Get some hair spray. Use dish detergent. Use vinegar. Get some baking soda. Crush three Aspirin pills. Get some lemon juice. Get a hold of white wine. Use table salt. Get some eggs out. Use club soda. Keep it very simple for plain dirt stains. Use shampoo. Add vinegar to your regular laundry cycle. Brush the dirt stain lightly with a toothbrush.

https://www.wikihow.com/Encourage-a-Cat-to-Use-Its-Bed

How to Encourage a Cat to Use Its Bed

To encourage a cat to use its bed, place the bed in a quiet, low-traffic area where your cat won't be disturbed. You can also try placing it near a window since cats like to look outside and enjoy the warmth from the sun. To make the bed more appealing to your cat, try sprinkling some catnip over it or lining it with a shirt that smells like you. You can even place a heating pad underneath the bed so it's nice and warm for your cat.

Observe where your cat likes to sleep. Paying attention to where your cat likes to sleep will help you find a good spot for its bed. Most cats like to sleep in warm areas that offer safety and seclusion but still offer a good vantage point. If you notice your cat likes to sleep in a specific spot, try placing the bed at or nearby that location first. Place the bed in a low traffic area. Cats prefer to maintain some personal space, so go with a quiet location away from your home's main thoroughfares. In high traffic areas, your cat will feel like it's always visible and won't want to rest or sleep. Examples of quiet spots include a spare bedroom, under a table, or a quiet corner in the den or living room. Give your cat a good view. Cats love to be able to see without being seen. In addition to providing warmth, placing the bed by a sunlit window lets your cat watch out for passing birds and other wildlife. Partially concealing the bed with floor-length curtains will further encourage your cat to use it. The window will provide a view and warmth, and the curtains will give it a sense of security. Elevate the bed or go with a perch if your cat likes height. Cats naturally enjoy heights and, for some, sleeping on the floor makes them feel too vulnerable. Try placing the bed on an ottoman, chair, or other piece of furniture. You could also provide your cat with a tree perch or a bed that attaches to a window sill. Just make sure the bed is secure so it doesn't fall and cause injuries. An elevated perch might be your best option if your cat prefers sleeping on the back of the sofa, a dining room chair, or other elevated surface. It might seem counterintuitive to place a bed on a chair or sofa, but it might help you reduce the amount of cat hair that builds up on your furniture. Try a new spot if your cat ignores its bed. If your cat doesn't seem interested in a new bed, your first solution should be to switch up its location. Finding a more desirable spot for the bed is usually an effective way to encourage your cat to use it. Place the bed somewhere secluded, sunlit, and warm, or where you see it sleeping the most. You can also try moving it to various spots in your home to follow the sun as it moves across the sky. Make sure the bed is clean. Cats don't like soiled environments or strange smells, so you should make sure the bed is clean before introducing your cat to it. If your cat avoids a new bed even though you've placed it in a good sleeping spot, it might not like the way the new bed smells. If your cat suddenly stops using a bed, chances are it's due for a wash. Keep in mind a brand new bed will smell like the factory and store it came from, so it's a good idea to wash it before introducing it to your cat. If you've acquired a bed secondhand, be sure to wash it before letting your cat use it. Beds with removable washable covers or that are entirely machine washable are excellent options. You can also consider spraying the bed with catnip to attract the cat and help it move past the new bed smell. Place some of your cat’s toys in the bed. Once you've chosen a good location for the bed, place some of your cat's toys in it. The toys will smell like your cat and help familiarize it with its bed. Leave the toys in the bed for least a day, but don't pick your cat up and bring it to the bed. Give it time to figure out what the bed is for on its own. Offer treats and praise when your cat goes to its bed. Giving your cat attention when you notice it using its bed will help it form a positive association with the bed. Offer lots of verbal praise, pet it, and offer it a small treat. Give your cat treats and praise only when you first see it get into its bed. Cats don't like being disturbed while they sleep. Petting or praising your cat while it's sleeping might make it dislike the bed. Try not to force your cat into the bed. Do your best to make sure your cat doesn't form a negative association with the bed. Switch up the bed's location and make it more appealing instead of holding your cat in the bed, yelling at it, or otherwise forcing it to use the bed, as that is not humane treatment. If your cat associates the bed with being held down or yelled at, it won't go anywhere near the bed. Use catnip to coax your cat to its bed. If it seems disinterested, try sprinkling some catnip in the bed to encourage your cat to lay in it. Keep in mind catnip makes some cats mellow, others more playful, and has no effect on almost half of cats. For best results, pay attention to how your cat reacts to catnip. Try lining the bed with clothing or fabric that smells like you. While cats prefer a nice, clean bed, they also love familiar scents. Putting a worn T-shirt or sweater in their bed often works wonders. Fleece is a great fabric choice, as most cats enjoy how it feels. You could also use a towel. Once your cat is used to the new smell, you can retrieve your garment. Making its bed smell like you will help encourage your cat to use its bed instead of getting into your bed. Provide your cat with multiple beds. Cats instinctively sleep in multiple locations over the course of a day. To encourage bed use, try placing multiple beds throughout your home in each of its preferred sleeping locations. Try incorporating different kinds of beds, like elevated beds, cave or hooded beds, and pillow beds. From using cardboard boxes to repurposing an old sweater, you can reduce the cost of providing multiple beds by creating homemade cat beds. Get a heated bed or heating pad to help your cat get comfortable. Getting a heated bed can help your cat feel more comfortable, especially during the colder winter months. Lightly heated beds can also help older cats or those with joint problems feel more comfortable. If your cat really likes their regular bed, you can get a bed heating pad to place underneath.

Observe where your cat likes to sleep. Place the bed in a low traffic area. Give your cat a good view. Elevate the bed or go with a perch if your cat likes height. Try a new spot if your cat ignores its bed. Make sure the bed is clean. Place some of your cat’s toys in the bed. Offer treats and praise when your cat goes to its bed. Try not to force your cat into the bed. Use catnip to coax your cat to its bed. Try lining the bed with clothing or fabric that smells like you. Provide your cat with multiple beds. Get a heated bed or heating pad to help your cat get comfortable.

https://www.wikihow.life/Clean-Grease-Stains-on-Leather

How to Clean Grease Stains on Leather

To clean grease stains on leather, sprinkle baby powder over them and let it sit overnight. Then, gently brush the powder off with a clean cloth. You can also try dabbing the stains with some soapy, distilled water to get them out. For tough stains, make a leather cleaning solution by mixing distilled water, sea salt, flour, and baking soda. Then, dab the stains with the solution before drying the area with a clean cloth.

Assemble your ingredients. If you've just spilled some butter or your boots or gotten bacon grease on the couch, it's best to leap into action right away. If you catch it quick enough, all you need to clean your leather item is: A microfiber cloth Talcum powder Dab with the grease as fast as possible with the cloth. Gently blot at the grease stain, trying to absorb as much of it as possible as quickly as possible. The trouble with cleaning leather is that it tends to absorb liquid, especially grease, making it difficult to clean topically once it's been absorbed. Avoid scrubbing the leather. This can damage the fine grains of the leather, making the stain worse. Blot gently and use some kind of lint-free microfiber cloth. Find the grain of the leather. Just like wood, leather has a direction of texture. You'll have more success in applying any cleaner if you apply it along the lie, as opposed to across it. In other words, any time you wipe or blot at the leather, you want to do it with the grain. If you're having trouble finding the grain, try to work from the "outside" of the stain in to the center. At the very least, you'll be able to shrink the stain this way. Spread talcum powder on the item. Use regular household baby powder to soak up the grease. Be liberal with your application of the powder. It works particularly well at drawing the grease out without damaging the leather because it's more absorbent than the leather is, as long as you get there in time. Let the powder sit overnight, or at least several hours to do its work. Gently brush the talcum powder off the item. Using a cloth, gently brush off the talcum powder. Be careful not to scrub the powder back into the leather, working the grease back out. Assemble your ingredients. One particularly effective method of cleaning grease from smaller items is to use a bit of dish soap and distilled water to create a lather and clean the item. You'll need a couple of clean micro-fiber cloths, the soap, and water. Consider using a spray bottle to make the job easier. Apply the detergent. Dip the cloth into the liquid detergent. Dab the patch test area with the cloth, being gentle to work with the grain of the leather. Soak the leather with the distilled water. Use your clean fingers to rub the patch test area until you work up a gentle lather. Apply more water as needed to clean the stain. Blot dry with a clean cloth. Allow the piece to dry fully before attempting to clean again. You might have to attempt several applications before the stain is shrunken significantly or completely removed from the item. Give it time to dry before attempting to clean it again. Assemble your ingredients. To create a simple and effective homemade leather cleaning solution, you'll just need the basic ingredients to make a loaf of bread: 3/8 cup of distilled water 1/8 cup of sea salt 1/2 teaspoon white flour 1 tablespoon baking soda Mix the ingredients thoroughly in a bowl. Use a spoon or fork and work your salt water, flour, and baking soda into a kind of a paste. This is highly effective in gently lifting grease from leather without affecting the leather grains of your item. Alternatively, you can try a mixture Do a patch test. Find a less visible spot on your item to "patch test" the cleaning solution of choice. If your leather is dyed in any way, any kind of cleaner can affect the color, so pick an out-of-the-way patch to test it on. Dip the cloth into the pasty mixture and dab the test area. Use a small amount of the mixture on the cloth and be extremely gentle. You want to use the same basic principle as the quick-fix method, gently dabbing and letting the cleaner do the work. Don't make it worse by scrubbing. Pat the area dry with another cloth. Be gentle and allow the area to dry completely before attempting to clean again. It might take several applications to completely eradicate the stain, or shrink it considerably, but allow the leather time to rejuvenate before you clean it again. Try alternatives. There are many different cleaning solution recipes used with varying degrees of success. Try different recipes if you can't get the spot as clean as you'd like. Use the same basic method for cleaning, but try different combinations of natural products you've got on hand. Some have reported success using: Equal parts water and white vinegar. Equal parts lemon juice and cream of tartar. One part of vinegar to two parts of linseed oil.

Assemble your ingredients. Dab with the grease as fast as possible with the cloth. Find the grain of the leather. Spread talcum powder on the item. Gently brush the talcum powder off the item. Assemble your ingredients. Apply the detergent. Soak the leather with the distilled water. Blot dry with a clean cloth. Assemble your ingredients. Mix the ingredients thoroughly in a bowl. Do a patch test. Dip the cloth into the pasty mixture and dab the test area. Pat the area dry with another cloth. Try alternatives.

https://www.wikihow.com/Stop-Having-An-Inappropriate-Crush

How to Stop Having An Inappropriate Crush

If you have an inappropriate crush on someone, try to focus on why the crush is a bad idea. Seriously think about what would actually happen if you got involved with your crush. For example, you might lose a friend, ruin your reputation, or alienate your family. Focusing on the person's negative qualities is another way to help you get over your crush, who you're likely idealizing. Think about why they're bad for you or what aspects of their personality aren't that appealing to help you move on. Once you've thought through the reality of being with your crush, distract yourself by going out with friends, reading a book, or taking on a new hobby as you let your emotions settle.

Consider all the reasons why the crush is a bad idea. Instead of focusing on all of the reasons you are drawn to your crush, you need to change your focus and consider all of the reasons why the crush can lead to no good and is not worth pursuing. There are many different reasons why any crush can be inappropriate, and it's important to know exactly what you'd be getting yourself into in order to avoid it. You should think about why the crush is a bad idea, and consider potential reasons that you may be feeling what you're feeling (other than the initial attraction, of course). Here are some potential reasons you may be dealing with: If they're a lot younger than you are or they're a lot older than you are, why are you interested in a young or old partner whose interests and priorities will be very different from your own? If you are into a guy who works for you, are you more into the idea that you can call the shots than the actual person? If you have a crush on your brother's girlfriend, is it more about getting one over on your brother than actual interest in the girl? It might be that for a series of circumstances you are feeling needy and vulnerable, making it a bad time to take any action. Consider your background and whether your new crush could be undermining your relationships if your crush is inappropriate because you're already in a relationship. If one or both parents had extra-marital affairs when you were growing up or if you have a history of infidelity you may have some underlying issues that need to be addressed to successfully enjoy a committed relationship. Ask yourself about the current state of your relationship if your crush is inappropriate because you're already in a casual relationship with no children who can be affected by leaving it. For example, if you have a crush on a guy but are already in a relationship, then you have to ask yourself if the crush is really meaningful, or if this is your way of telling yourself that it's not really working out with you and your boyfriend. If you and your boyfriend were really happy together, then would you have "room" to develop strong feelings for another person? Of course, everyone, even the happiest couples, can get harmless little crushes from time to time, but if your crush turns more serious, then you should question your current relationship. This is your chance to exit without serious consequences if there is a problem. You should especially question the status of your current relationship if this kind of thing keeps happening. If you occasionally really click with someone outside of your relationship and feel a harmless crush on him or her while knowing it won't lead to anything, that's one thing, but if you feel frequently embroiled in a one-sided love affair, then you have to wonder about the real reason behind your feelings. Recognize the importance of letting go of an age-inappropriate crush. Relationships need to happen between equals. It's important to date someone who is in your stage of life (such as high school, college, newly entering the workforce, etc.) or who is very close to it (such as someone about to graduate from college dating someone who recently graduated from it). Dating someone in a different stage of life is likely not to work out and may involve (intentional or inadvertent) exploitation. The stage of life and level of maturity should be identical or very close. Older people have a responsibility not to date people who are too young for them. It's harder to relate to someone who has different goals, responsibilities, abilities, friend groups, and other ideas or traits that change with age. A significant age gap involves an imbalance of power. A 16-year-old is much more experienced than a 12-year-old. A 46-year-old is much more experienced than a 25-year-old. The younger person may be (even inadvertently) pressured to do things they aren't ready for. Even if they say they're ready, hindsight might tell a different story, and they could get hurt. If the younger person is a minor and the older person is an adult, then serious legal action could be taken against the older person. The older person may be perceived (incorrectly or correctly) as predatory. Project the potential fallout. If you were to get involved with this person, how would the fallout affect you? Them? Your friends, family, co-workers? Think as if it were a chess game and visualize the next several moves: "If I do this, then they will do that; then my brother will hate me; then the first time we argue I will lose my job..." and so on. Thinking about the worst that could happen if you and your crush were united can make you realize that it would be a huge mistake. Ask yourself, is the potential relationship with this person worth all the trouble you will endure, and what are the chances the relationship would survive all of the chaos that will ensue? Consider your reputation. What will other people think — will they think more, or less of you? Though we often say that it doesn't matter what people think and that love conquers all, in some cases, the fact of the matter is that what other people think does matter, because their disapproval, or even their scorn, may make it very difficult for you to carry out your potential inappropriate relationship. It's important to step back and look at the big picture, to consider how other people would react to your relationship. If you're already certain it's inappropriate, then considering how others would react will further dissuade you. Here are some scenarios to consider: It's not cool to try to steal your buddy's girl. You might end up with her, but you will lose your friend. If you're older, and the boy is a minor, you will be considered a cradle-robber —and on top of that, if you actually pursue that relationship into a sexual situation, you could be looking at jail. Sex with a minor is worse than inappropriate — it's a crime. Sure, you may have a crush on your wife's sister. But imagine what would happen if you did anything about it — would your wife ever be able to look you in the eye? Would her family ever forgive you? Think about your future. If you get involved with someone inappropriate, you will not just be dealing with problems now. You will be dealing with the fallout far — maybe years — into the future. It's one thing to think about the exciting adventures you'll have with your inappropriate crush if he or she returns you feelings, but it's another try to imagine what your relationship will really look like in a few years. Will it really be possible to sustain it? Will your feelings really last? It's important to think about whether you can really have a future with this person, or if you would just be sacrificing everything for a few fleeting moments of joy. For instance, the person you are crazy about may not be a very nice person. You start ditching your friends and family to spend time with her. She's super flaky, and you become flaky, too — going back on your word because she wasn't willing to do whatever it was you promised you'd do — and won't let you do it, either. Even after you break up with her, everyone you know will still view you with distrust. They will question your judgment for ever getting involved with someone like that in the first place. Focus on your crush's negative qualities. Almost by definition, a crush involves an idealized picture of someone else. But everyone is human, and even your crush has characteristics that are probably not pleasant. Perhaps he says mean things to people, or maybe she listens to music that you think is dumb. Or perhaps he or she merely ignores you. Try to work up some negative energy about the person that you can focus on in order to weaken the crush. Write down a list of all of the negative qualities of your crush. If you really think your crush is perfect and you can't think of a single thing that is wrong with him or her, then this means that you don't know the person well enough. If you can't think of a single thing wrong with your crush, then you have him or her up on a pedestal. One of the reasons your crush may be inappropriate is simply because the person is "bad" for you. Writing down the reasons why, such as the fact that the person abuses alcohol or is a known player, can help you see that, while you may get butterflies in your stomach when you see him, he's no good for you in the long run. Distract yourself as much as you can. Now that you've analyzed, considered, and really meditated upon how terrible this idea is, you need to stop obsessing over this person. No matter how tempting it is to think about him/her, fantasize, and get yourself all tingly doing it, stop it. Think about and do something else. In loose psychological terms, it's called redirecting behaviors and thought patterns. You have to find ways to stay busy and to stop thinking about your inappropriate crush. If all you do is sit around the house all day, then your inappropriate crush will be a lot harder to forget than if you throw yourself into your work and studies and have an active social life. At first, not thinking about your crush will be even harder because you'll be so busy thinking about nothing thinking about him or her. But have faith — soon enough, you'll be on your way to moving forward. Learn to redirect your thoughts. Train yourself to think about something else every time you start thinking about him/her — think about how much you love the person you're with instead. Think about how much work you have to get done. If you're at home, turn on the radio or TV, and get some other thoughts running through your head. If you still feel yourself reverting to thoughts of your forbidden crush, find someone to talk to; call a friend. Ask that friend if he or she wants to hang out — you can get out of the house and stop thinking about your crush! Throw yourself into a new hobby or an activity. Try tennis, yoga, writing short stories, or training for a 5K. Though these activities alone won't make you forget your crush, they will bring more richness to your life and will help you think of other things. Avoid the person as much as you can. If you can remove yourself from that person as much as possible, the crush will weaken. In order to sustain our adoration for someone, we generally need to reinforce it by seeing the person. (Absence usually doesn't make the heart grow fonder, actually.) Of course, this isn't always practical, but do what you can to minimize contact with the other person. Try to avoid doing anything dramatic while finding a way to limit the time you spend with your crush. Unfortunately, there are some cases where it would be quite hard to limit contact with the person entirely. If you have a crush on your married boss and it won't go away, for example, you may have to consider looking for another job. If you have a crush on your professor and it won't go away, see if you can switch into another class. If you do have to be in the same room as the person, try to minimize eye contact and conversation. You shouldn't make things extra awkward by avoiding or ignoring the person entirely, but you should limit how much time you spend interacting. Give it time. All crushes fade with time. If you can avoid doing something regrettable and keep your feelings in check, eventually those powerful emotions will run their course. You may feel like you're trapped and that you are bound to have these feelings forever, but that won't be the case. One day, you'll be looking back on this moment, wondering how you could have harbored such feelings. If you have faith that you won't always feel this way, you'll be on the way to getting over it. Unfortunately, there's no timeline for how long it takes to get over a crush. But if you go about living a busy and fulfilling life instead of spending all your time moping and pining, you'll be guaranteed to get over it faster. Start dating other people when you're ready. If you're single, then you should begin to put yourself out there when you're starting to get over your crush. You don't have to feel 100% cured, but you should feel like you're ready to start a meaningful relationship with someone else — if you're still completely lovesick, then it won't be fair to the other person to start dating just to distract yourself. But once you're ready, ask a friend to set you up or be open to meeting new people. You'll soon find that your crush is far from your thoughts. It doesn't matter if that person does not measure up to your "wrong crush." What does matter is that you spend some time in the pleasant company of someone other than that person. Start dating others, and keep an open mind. That person is off limits to you, and you have to start re-wiring your brain to think about being with someone else. If you can't fight it, find a way to make it right first. Let's face it: sometimes, you can't convince yourself that you don't feel the way you feel. If you've tried to fight it, all to no avail, and you still find yourself sighing over them, then make it right. There are ways to make an inappropriate crush totally appropriate — the most important thing to remember is to make it right first — and then, and only then —get involved. And then, true love wins the day! If she's your brother's girl, then you have to behave as a gallant gentleman, and never hit on her. If your brother breaks up with her, you can ask your brother if he'd mind you asking her out. Maybe he wouldn't mind, and there certainly is precedent for it. If he doesn't break up with her, or if he won't give you permission, you're out of luck unless you are prepared to accept the consequences — your brother may not speak to you. If you are falling for your subordinate, then you must decide what measures you should take at work before you pursue the relationship. You can transfer to another department or take on a different position, or do whatever you have to do at work so that your relationship would not be viewed as inappropriate or a power play.

Consider all the reasons why the crush is a bad idea. Consider your background and whether your new crush could be undermining your relationships if your crush is inappropriate because you're already in a relationship. Ask yourself about the current state of your relationship if your crush is inappropriate because you're already in a casual relationship with no children who can be affected by leaving it. Recognize the importance of letting go of an age-inappropriate crush. Project the potential fallout. Consider your reputation. Think about your future. Focus on your crush's negative qualities. Distract yourself as much as you can. Avoid the person as much as you can. Give it time. Start dating other people when you're ready. If you can't fight it, find a way to make it right first.

https://www.wikihow.com/Greet-People-from-the-Philippines

How to Greet People from the Philippines

To greet people in the Philippines, try "Magandang umaga" ("Good Morning"), "Magandang hapon" ("Good afternoon"), or "Magandang gabi" ("Good evening"). To say "How are you?" to a group, say "Kumusta kayo?" Gently shake a person's hand, or if they're elderly, bring their right hand up to touch your forehead.

Remember that almost everything you read in Tagalog or Filipino is phonetic. This means that words can be sounded out. Try to sound it out the way you see it and you will most likely be close to the correct pronunciation. Vowels are harder than in American English, but softer than in a British accent. Also, all the vowels are unrounded, except for /o/. There are exceptions though: ng is pronounced 'nang' and mga is pronounced 'muhNGA'. The '-ng', which is a single letter, is pronounced as in 'ba ng' or 'so ng'. Learn a little of the language before you visit. You can learn Filipino or Tagalog by reading books, viewing television, listening to music, or watching videos. Just like other languages, it is still best if you practice by conversing with someone who knows the language. If you have a limited amount of time, focus your studying on common greetings that you are likely to use. Don't try to learn all the grammar and structure of the language if you are visiting in the near future. Learn how to say the equivalent of good morning, good afternoon, and good evening. There is no literal translation for these phrases. Instead, Filipinos greet each other by saying "beautiful" before day, afternoon, or evening. To say good morning, say "Magandang umaga" (ma-gan-dang u-ma-ga), which literally means beautiful morning. To say good afternoon, say "Magandang hapon" (ma-gan-dang ha-pon), which literally means beautiful afternoon. To say good evening, say "Magandang gabi" (ma-gan-dang ga-bi), which literally means beautiful evening. Try English if all else fails. Filipinos are generally accustomed to English in fact, 96.3% of Philippine population consider English as a second language and Filipinos can speak English fluently also, so you can simply say "Hi," "Hello," 'Good Morning,' etc. The person you are greeting will probably understand your basic greeting in English. If you get stuck and don't know what to say, just speak in English. It is better to say something in English than nothing at all. However, if you want to impress those you interact with, then go ahead and study the language so you are prepared! Greet a group of friends. If you are trying to impress a new group of friends, say "Kumusta kayó" when you approach them. This is the plural form of "How are you?" It is pronounced /kah - mu:s - ta: ka: - yo:/. Speak differently to elders. If you are talking to someone who is older or of higher social rank than you, always add po to your sentences. Po is usually added at the end of a sentence, for example "Salamat po" means "thank you." Also, use opo to say "yes." This is basically the equivalent of saying "yes, ma'am" or "yes sir." Shake people's hands. In Filipino culture it is generally best to shake hands with someone that you are meeting for the first time. This is usually a soft hand shake, not an overly firm one. Greeting someone you just met with a kiss on the cheek or a hug is not usually done. This is most often reserved for once you have developed a relationship. If you are in a Muslim area of the Philippines, then the rules for touching, especially between men and women, may be different. Shaking hands may still be appropriate but men may need to initiate. Notice what others are doing around you and follow their lead. Consider using a "mano" greeting with elders. Filipino elders are often greeted by taking their right hand and bringing it up to touch your forehead. This is called "mano." This is especially important to do with ones own family members and with those that are extremely elderly. If an elderly person holds out their hand in front of their body with the palm facing down, this may be a sign that they are expecting a "mano" greeting. This greeting is about you respecting your elders but it is also about the elder blessing you when they touch your forehead. Keep the conversation light and friendly. As with many people all over the world, Filipinos don't necessarily want to talk about politics or serious topics with strangers. Instead, focus your conversations on the joys of life: family, food, and fun. This will make getting to know this new person more enjoyable. In general, Filipinos love to laugh. They do it genuinely but they also laugh to move away from uncomfortable topics or to break tension. Be aware of this and be willing to change the subject if you notice this cue.

Remember that almost everything you read in Tagalog or Filipino is phonetic. Learn a little of the language before you visit. Learn how to say the equivalent of good morning, good afternoon, and good evening. Try English if all else fails. Greet a group of friends. Speak differently to elders. Shake people's hands. Consider using a "mano" greeting with elders. Keep the conversation light and friendly.

https://www.wikihow.com/Know-What-a-Girl-Wants-in-a-Guy

How to Know What a Girl Wants in a Guy

Although every girl wants different things from a romantic partner, you can work to make yourself seem more appealing by looking your best and having a good personality. Keep yourself well-groomed and shower regularly. You can also put on a small amount of cologne so you smell nice when you're around her. Regular exercise will show a girl that you take care of yourself and it will boost your self-confidence, which a lot of girls find super attractive. In addition to looking good, show her you have a good personality. Try making her laugh to show her you have a sense of humor, be respectful to her and everyone around you, and show genuine interest in what she cares about.

Be honest, but not brutally honest. Girls like guys who are honest with them about things going on in their lives, but you don't need to tell her when she isn't looking 100%. Many people have rough days. Ask her what makes her happy. Be direct to discover what specific things you should and should not do to ensure she stays happy. Having a relationship built on open communication and honesty is crucial to ensure that it's going to last. Be understanding. A girl wants you to get to know her on a deep level so they don't have to always explain herself. Learn to be empathetic to her and be able to understand things she is going through. Don't dismiss her problems or concerns. Be aware of little things that upset her. Be willing to go out of your way to do the things she wants. Listen actively during conversations. Girls like to talk; they want guys who truly listen and are able to open up and talk back as well. Communication is a two way street that requires both parties to listen and speak. Allow her to speak her mind without dominating the conversation. Listen without trying to solve all the problems. Rephrase what she says and repeat it back telling her you understand what she said. Pay attention to non-verbal cues. Girls communicate with more than just words. Be aware of the signals she's sending when she isn't talking. Watch her body language to see if she likes something or if it makes her uncomfortable. Listen to the tone of her voice, not just the words, to find hidden inflections. Look into her eyes when she smiles. A true smile can be seen in the eyes and you can learn what makes her truly happy. Compliment her to show her you care about her. A girl likes to be complimented not only on her looks, but also about her abilities like her intellect, sports skills, or sense of humor.. Don’t take her for granted. Girls like to be appreciated. Show gratitude when they do things for you, even the small things. Recognize and thank her for the things she does. Let her know you're grateful through your words and actions. Be strong for her. Strength is not just measured in physical prowess. Girls want a man who is supportive of their feelings, able to comfort them when they are feeling down, and provide a feeling of security. Take care of yourself financially. Girls aren't just after money, but most would like to know that you could provide if you have to. Be able to deal with situations that make her scared. Hold her during scary movies, and kill the creepy crawlies that get in the house. Help her move things that are heavy. You don't have to be a muscle man, but be able to help out when you're needed. Stand up for what is right. Girls want to see a man who is willing to put himself on the line to defend what is right. This does not mean throwing punches and getting into physical altercations, but it is important to be willing to speak up if things aren't going well. Send food back if it isn't what was ordered. Stop people from bullying or picking on others. Sign petitions and be active in making the community better. Follow through when you say you’ll do something. Being dependable is important to show that you can be counted on during hard times. If you are constantly procrastinating and telling a girl that you will do something later, she will wonder if you ever complete anything. Know what is happening in the world. Knowing current events is not only great material for small talk, but also a great way to show a girl that you are smart and aware of the world around you. Help her study. Being able to help a girl learn something new is a great way to make a connection. It can help you build common interests and also helps her see you as a knowledgeable provider. Share your interests with her. Girls want to become part of a guy's life. If you can teach her and share something that you are interested in with her, it is a great way to draw her in. Learn about arts and culture. Girls appreciate guys who have more than one dimension. If all you know about is sports statistics it might be harder to have a conversation with a girl. Learning about music and art are great ways to show her that you are interested in a variety of topics. Know how to cook a meal. Girls want to know that they aren't the only one who is responsible for preparing food. Even if you only know how to make one meal, learn the recipe by heart so you can make her an amazing dinner without having to fumble through a cookbook. Have a good sense of humor. Being jovial and light hearted can help you make the people around you feel good. Laughing releases endorphins and reduces stress levels in the body. Girls want to feel good about themselves when they are with a guy, so if you can make them laugh, you're doing a good thing. Be respectful to everyone around you. Being cocky or a jerk makes you look like you don't care about others' feelings. Girls like guys that show respect to them, their friends, and other people. Support her dreams and desires. Be willing to help her along the way to achieving her goals. It is important for girls to know that they have someone who is in their corner and will provide encouragement when they want to do something. Understand that girls change their minds. Everyone changes what they want from time to time. Even if a girl liked something one day, it is not guaranteed that she will like it tomorrow. Be willing to accept changes and go with the flow to keep her comfortable and happy. Care about her and others. A girl wants a guy who is caring and compassionate. She needs to know that she is your number 1 and wants you to take an interest in her life. Showing true compassion in front of a girl shows her that you are capable of loving. Keep yourself well groomed. Staying well groomed shows a girl that you can take care of yourself and are not lazy. Brush your hair and keep it well trimmed. Keep facial hair neatly trimmed or shaved. Wear stylish clothing. Clothes that are not dirty or torn help you look presentable. You can personalize your style to make it uniquely yours; however, you want to make sure it isn't too wild or you may end up turning girls away. Shower or bathe regularly to cut down on body odor. Girls like a man who smells good. Don't overdo it with cologne or body sprays, but make sure that you don't smell like a locker room either. Exercise regularly. You don't need to go to the gym daily to bulk up, but it is important to take care of your body. Girls like guys to be fit; you don't want to look like you just sit and play video games or watch TV all day.

Be honest, but not brutally honest. Ask her what makes her happy. Be understanding. Listen actively during conversations. Pay attention to non-verbal cues. Compliment her to show her you care about her. Don’t take her for granted. Be strong for her. Stand up for what is right. Follow through when you say you’ll do something. Know what is happening in the world. Help her study. Share your interests with her. Learn about arts and culture. Know how to cook a meal. Have a good sense of humor. Be respectful to everyone around you. Support her dreams and desires. Understand that girls change their minds. Care about her and others. Keep yourself well groomed. Wear stylish clothing. Shower or bathe regularly to cut down on body odor. Exercise regularly.

https://www.wikihow.com/Give-First-Aid-for-a-Severed-Finger

How to Give First Aid for a Severed Finger

Before attempting to give first aid for a severed finger, call 911 to request immediate emergency assistance. While you wait for paramedics, begin cleaning the wound with clean water, but do not remove any embedded objects, since these might be stopping the flow of blood. Then, after cleaning the wound as best you can, press down on the wound with a clean cloth to staunch the flow of blood. As you wait for help to arrive, keep the wound elevated and continue to apply pressure.

Look around the area for danger. Before helping someone, make sure you do not see anything that would put you or others in immediate danger, such as a power tool that is still on. Check for consciousness. See if the person is awake enough to talk to you. You can start by asking for the person's name. If the person isn't conscious, that could be a sign of a more serious injury or shock. Call for help. If you're the only person in the area, call 911 to get help. If other people are around, assign one person to call 911. Check for more serious injuries. A severed finger can be distracting with all the blood, but make sure that is the most serious injury before moving on to treat it. For instance, check for more serious bleeding wounds. Continue talking to the person. Help her remain calm by talking to her in a soothing voice. Try not to become panicked yourself. Take slow, deep breaths, and ask the injured person to do the same. Put on gloves. If they are quickly available, put on gloves before helping the person. Gloves will help protect you from any blood-borne diseases he may have. First aid kits sometimes include gloves. Clean off the dirt. If you see any clear pieces of dirt or debris on the wound, you can remove it by rinsing with clean, running water (you can pour this from a water bottle if a sink is not accessible). However, if you see an imbedded object or something large, leave it where it is. Keep the wound from bleeding more. Using clean cloth or gauze, press down on the wounded area. Try to staunch the flow of blood with pressure. Elevate the wound. Make sure the hand with the severed finger is above the heart, as the elevation will help slow down the bleeding. Have the person lay down. Help her lay down, using a blanket or carpeting under her to keep her warm. Continue to apply pressure. While the wound is still bleeding, keep holding pressure on the wound. If you become tired, ask someone else to take over. If you don't seem to be stopping the blood at all, make sure you have the wound properly covered. If you cannot continue to apply pressure, you can put on a tight bandage. However, tight bandages can cause harm over time. To apply one, wrap a piece of cloth or gauze around the wound, and use tape to keep it on. Keep the pressure on until help arrives. Clean the finger. Lightly wash off the finger to clean off dirt, especially if the wound on it looks dirty. Have someone else do these steps if you are still applying pressure. Remove jewelry. If possible, gently take off any rings or other jewelry. They may be more difficult to take off later. Wrap the finger in a damp paper towel or gauze. Lightly wet a clean paper towel with sterile saline solution, if available. Contact lens solution can also be used, or tap water, or bottled water if saline is not available. Wring out any excess liquid, then wrap the finger in the towel. Place the finger in a plastic bag, preferably a zip-top bag. Put the wrapped finger in a zip-top bag and seal the bag. Make an ice bag or bucket. In a larger zip-top bag or a bucket, add ice and water. Place the sealed finger bag into the larger bag. Do not place the finger directly in water or ice, as it may get frostbitten and damage the skin. Also, don't use dry ice, as that is too cold. Hand the finger to the paramedics. Once help arrives, let them take control of the finger.

Look around the area for danger. Check for consciousness. Call for help. Check for more serious injuries. Continue talking to the person. Put on gloves. Clean off the dirt. Keep the wound from bleeding more. Elevate the wound. Have the person lay down. Continue to apply pressure. Clean the finger. Remove jewelry. Wrap the finger in a damp paper towel or gauze. Place the finger in a plastic bag, preferably a zip-top bag. Make an ice bag or bucket. Hand the finger to the paramedics.

https://www.wikihow.com/Take-a-Screenshot-in-Linux

How to Take a Screenshot in Linux

To take a screenshot while using Linux, use the “PrtScn” button on your keyboard, which is usually located between the “F12” and “ScrLk” buttons. This method will take a full-screen screenshot in most GNOME desktops environments, like Ubuntu and Linux Mint. If you just want to take a screenshot of your active window, press “Alt” and “PrtScn” at the same time. Alternatively, install GIMP, which is a free image editor. After you've installed GIMP, click the “File” menu and select “Create,” then “Screenshot”. Once the screenshot tool is open, you can choose whether you want to take a single window, full-screen, or custom screenshot before hitting the “Snap” button to take a screenshot.

Press . PrtScn to take a full-screen screenshot. The screenshot will show everything in your display. You will be prompted to select where you would like to save the screenshot file. The Print Screen key is located at the top of the keyboard, usually between F12 and ScrLk. It may be labeled "Print Screen", "PrtScn", "PrntScrn", or something else similar. Press . Alt + PrtScn to take a screenshot of a window. This shortcut will create a screenshot of your active window. The file will be created in your Pictures folder. Press . ⇧ Shift + PrtScn to select what you capture. You'll be able to click and drag a selection box to determine what is captured in the screenshot. A file with the image you captured will be created in your Pictures folder. Open the Screenshot utility. The Gnome Screenshot utility allows you to perform some additional screenshot functions, such as adding a delay. You can find the Screenshot utility in the Accessories folder of your Applications menu. Select your screenshot type. You can choose from any of the options outlined above. Add a delay. If your screenshot is time-dependent, you can use the Screenshot utility to add a delay before the screenshot is captured. This will allow you to make sure the right content is on the screen. Select your effects. You can choose to include your mouse pointer in the screenshot, as well as whether or not you want to add a border to the screenshot. Install GIMP. GIMP is a free image editor that comes installed on some Linux distributions. If you don't have it installed, you can get it for free using your distribution's package manager or Software Center. Open the Software Center, search for "gimp", and then install the "GIMP Image Editor". Click the "File" menu and select "Create" → "Screenshot". The screenshot creation tool will open. This tool is very similar to the Gnome Screenshot utility. Select the type of screenshot you want to take. You can choose to take three different types of screenshots: single window, full-screen, or custom selection. If you choose the single window option, you'll be able to click the window that you want to take a screenshot of. Add a delay. You can add a delay before the screenshot is taken so that you can arrange everything exactly how you want it. If you have single window or custom screenshots selected, you'll choose your screenshot target after the delay timer runs out. Click "Snap" to take the screenshot. Depending on your settings, the screenshot may be taken immediately. When you're finished, the screenshot will open in the GIMP editing window. Save the screenshot. If you don't want to make any edits to the screenshot, you can save it to your hard drive. Click the "File" menu and select "Export". Give the screenshot a name and choose where you would like to save it. Click the "Export" button once you are satisfied. Open the Terminal. ImageMagick is a command-line utility that can capture screenshots for you. Many distributions come with ImageMagick already installed, but you can install it for free from your distribution's package manager if you don't have it. To open the Terminal quickly in Ubuntu and many other distributions, press Ctrl + Alt + T. Install ImageMagick. On Debian-based distributions such as Ubuntu, type sudo apt-get install imagemagick and press ↵ Enter. You will be prompted for your administrator password. If ImageMagick hasn't been installed, it will begin downloading and installing. If it is already installed, you will be informed. Take a screenshot of the entire screen. Type import -window root Pictures/ fileName.png and press ↵ Enter. Replace fileName with the name you want to give the screenshot. Take a screenshot of a specific window. Type import Pictures/ fileName.png and press ↵ Enter. Replace fileName with the name you want to give the screenshot. The cursor will turn into a crosshair, and you can click the window that you want to capture. Add a delay to the screenshot. Type import -window root -pause # Pictures/ fileName.png and press ↵ Enter. Replace # with the amount of seconds that you want to wait before the screenshot is taken. After waiting the set amount of time, the screenshot will be taken and you will be returned to the terminal prompt. Install Shutter. This is a popular screenshot program that contains some advanced upload and editing capabilities. If you take and share screenshots often, you may want to give this program a try. You can find Shutter through most distribution's package managers. Simply search for "Shutter" and install the program. To install Shutter from the Terminal on Debian-based distributions, type sudo add-apt-repository ppa:shutter/ppa and press ↵ Enter. Update your repositories by typing sudo apt-get update , and then install Shutter by typing sudo apt-get install shutter. Select the type of screenshot you want to take. Along the top of the Shutter window, you'll see the three options that you can pick from: "Selection", "Desktop" and "Window". Click the button to select the type of screenshot you want to take. Take your screenshot. If you selected "Desktop", your screenshot will be taken automatically. If you selected "Selection", the screen will dim and you can click and drag to create a selection box. Everything inside of the box will be captured. If you selected "Window", you can click the window that you want to take a screenshot of. The screenshot will be saved automatically to your Pictures folder. Edit the screenshot. After taking the screenshot, a preview will appear in the Shutter window. Click the "Edit" button to open the Shutter editor. You can use the editor to highlight things on the screenshot or make notations. Click "Save" when you are finished. Export the screenshot. You can send the screenshot to an image upload service, or add an FTP server to upload it to. Click the "Export" button to open the Export menu. In the "Public hosting" tab, you can choose to upload the screenshot to your Dropbox account or a variety of online image hosting websites. You'll be asked for your account credentials when you select one. In the "FTP" tab, you can enter in the connection information for your FTP server, which is useful if you post screenshots on a blog or website. In the "Places" tab, you can move the screenshot to another location on your computer or network.

Press . Press . Press . Open the Screenshot utility. Select your screenshot type. Add a delay. Select your effects. Install GIMP. Click the "File" menu and select "Create" → "Screenshot". Select the type of screenshot you want to take. Add a delay. Click "Snap" to take the screenshot. Save the screenshot. Open the Terminal. Install ImageMagick. Take a screenshot of the entire screen. Take a screenshot of a specific window. Add a delay to the screenshot. Install Shutter. Select the type of screenshot you want to take. Take your screenshot. Edit the screenshot. Export the screenshot.

https://www.wikihow.com/Diagnose-Ear-Infections-in-Cocker-Spaniels

How to Diagnose Ear Infections in Cocker Spaniels

If your Cocker Spaniel has been touching its ears more than usual or tilting its head, it may have an ear infection. To diagnose an ear infection in a Cocker Spaniel, start by checking its ears for signs of infection, such as skin redness, discharge, excessive wax, and a bad odor. Take your dog to the vet immediately if you think it has an ear infection, and the vet will determine what caused the infection and how to treat it. Because ear infections are so common with Cocker Spaniels, check your dog's ears regularly to stay ahead of future infections.

Notice when your dog favors her ears. When your dog has an ear infection, she will be touching and favoring her ears more than usual. This includes scratching the ears with her paws and rubbing her ears along the floor. Watch for any head tilting. If your dog holds her head to one side, her ears may be sore. She may also shake her head a lot. Head tilting can be a sign of a deep infection, so it's important to get the ear checked immediately. Listen for whining. Ear infections make your Cocker Spaniel's ears sore, and because she is in pain, she may whimper or whine. Some dogs will whine while scratching their ears, which indicates their ear hurts. Check for bad smells. Bacterial infections often give off an unpleasant odor. Lift your Cocker Spaniel's ears and sniff them. If one of them smells bad, or smells a little worse than usual, your dog may be developing an ear infection. Look for discharge from the ear. One of the main symptoms for ear infections is discharge. The discharge will come from the ear canal and might be a thick, black or brown wax, a yellow-green substance, or even bloody. Notice skin changes. If the infection causes inflammation, the skin may be reddened. Excessive scratching may also cause inflammation. An infection may also cause swelling and greasiness. You may also see scabs or crustiness in the ear. Hair loss may also occur on the ear. Compare one side with the other to get an idea if the skin is normal or thickened. Watch for signs of your dog feeling bad. Ear infections can be painful, thus making the dog feel bad. Your dog may not want to eat, either because she feels bad or because chewing hurts due to the ear pain. Your dog may seem depressed or lethargic, meaning she doesn't want to do normal activities. Check your dog’s ears regularly. Since you own a Cocker Spaniel, you should check her ear flaps at least once a day so you can pick out debris, such as twigs or grass seeds, that has become entangled in the long fur. Regularly check the ear for infection. To do this, lift the ear flap and check for skin redness, excessive wax, or discharge from the ear. Sniff each ear to see if they smell bad, which could indicate an infection. If you have doubt about whether your dog's ear looks normal or not, compare one ear with the other. Often ear one side is worse than the other when there is an infection. Take your dog to the vet. If you think your Cocker Spaniel has an ear infection, take her to the vet immediately. The vet will perform a physical examination, looking to see if the dog has a head tilt, if there is pain around the ear, if there is a discharge, or physical changes in the ear. The vet will inspect the ear canal for inflammation, redness, ulcers, discharge, or foreign bodies in the ear, such as a grass awn. The vet uses an otoscope to look down the external ear canal. The otoscope fits down the ear canal and allows the vet to look deep into the ear for infections. If a discharge is present and the ear is sore, this is enough to diagnose an ear infection. Get the proper treatment for your dog. Your vet will decide the cause of your dog's ear infection, such as bacteria, yeast, or something else. This will determine how your dog is treated. Your vet will clean your dog's ear. Most of the time, the vet will start with a topical ear drops in the office, which contain medications against yeast, bacteria, or ear mites. Then, your vet will give you an antibiotic, antifungal, or other medicine to administer at home. If the dog has regular ear infections, or the infection is slow to respond, the vet may perform further tests. These include examining discharge smears under a microscope or sending a swab away for culture.

Notice when your dog favors her ears. Watch for any head tilting. Listen for whining. Check for bad smells. Look for discharge from the ear. Notice skin changes. Watch for signs of your dog feeling bad. Check your dog’s ears regularly. Take your dog to the vet. Get the proper treatment for your dog.

https://www.wikihow.com/Pack-for-a-Trip

How to Pack for a Trip

When you pack for a trip, wrap breakable or fragile items, like jewelry or glass, in socks and tuck them into shoes inside your luggage. To avoid wrinkles, lay 2-3 items flat and roll them up like a sleeping bag. You'll also want to secure your toiletries by putting them in a sealed bag to avoid any spills or leaking. As you pack, make sure to put any heavy items on the bottom of your bag, especially if it's an upright model, to make wheeling it around easier.

Make a checklist of every item you plan to take on your trip. This will include clothing, shoes, toiletries, and paperwork and possibly also maps, guidebooks, reading material, and hotel or rental car information. This checklist will also help you when packing for the trip back home as you will have a list of everything that you brought with you. Commonly forgotten items include toothbrush/toothpaste, socks, sunglasses, sunscreen, hat, pajamas, razors, and deodorant. Never underestimate how quickly your space will fill up. Will you really need five pairs of shoes for three nights? And four coats? Consider the weather and what kinds of activities you will be doing. You might want to visit www.weatherchannel.com to check out how the weather will be at your destination. Plan your outfits ahead of time to avoid over-packing. If you have a decent sense of what the weather will be like, you can be very precise. If not, bring versatile items (ex. a cardigan or light jacket that goes with several of your tops, some three-quarter-sleeve shirts, jeans that look good rolled up at the bottoms) that will allow you to adapt to changing conditions. As much as possible, bring items you can get away with re-wearing. Layering is a good way to not only disguise re-worn items but also deal with changing weather. Stretch your travel wardrobe by color-matching. If you make sure every piece of clothing you pack works with many other pieces, you can create a host of mix-and-match possibilities. Bring empty plastic bags for dirty items. If you won't have an opportunity to wash your clothes, tucking them away in a separate bag will keep you from having to mingle the clean with the dirty or sort through your stuff every time you want to change. Buy travel-size containers for your toiletries, regardless of the length of your trip. This includes your toothbrush, toothpaste, deodorant, etc. Unless you will be in a remote location for weeks, you can always drop into a local shop to restock your supply of soap and toothpaste. If you will be flying, there might also be restrictions on the amount of liquid or gel you can bring on the plane, meaning you may find yourself forced to choose between shampoo and toothpaste while going through airport security. Go to the airline's website to check out the guidelines. Put all your toiletries in a secure bag. You definitely do not want an explosion or a leak in your luggage! Oh, and again, these should be in travel sizes. If you will be staying at a hotel after your arrival, you can completely skip the shampoo and conditioner and simply use what the hotel provides. (You can buy other necessities at the destination such as toothpaste.) If you will be going through customs, check your luggage prior to packing. Ensure that it is completely empty (especially if the luggage is not yours), because as soon as you're in security check, no one is responsible for its contents except you. Usually, suitcases have hidden zippers along the center or side. Open these and give it a good once-over. It is better to be safe than sorry. If you will be crossing borders , consider using tamper-evident products to seal your case so you can check if your luggage arrives without being breached before you go on to clear customs. Place heavy items at the bottom of your bag, especially if it is an upright model. Struggling with a rolling luggage that twists and flips in every gentle turn and falls over when you let it go is no way to move around. As you pack your luggage, check items off your list. Be thorough; you don't want to have to dismantle your entire bag in a panic to find out whether or not you've taken care of something. Pack clothing using the time-honored "roll" technique. Lay two or three items on top of one another, smooth to flatten, and roll them up like you would a sleeping bag to save space and prevent wrinkles. For added wrinkle insurance, place a sheet of heavy tissue or packing paper between items of clothing before rolling. Don't worry about wrinkle-prone garments; most hotel/motel/inn rooms have an iron and board in the closet for your needs, not to mention a hotel laundry service. Pack sweaters, jackets, and underwear in reusable compression bags, which can create up to 75% more space in your luggage. These lock in odors, so they also work for storing dirty laundry. Compression bags work very well. Ziploc sells these. What you have to do is place the item inside, close the bag, and put the included air pump over a little one-way hole. Suck out the air with the pump. It's that easy. Place breakable items, like jewelry or glass, wrapped in socks and tucked into shoes inside your luggage. This ensures ultimate safety. Buy wide clip rings. Available at major supermarkets like Target or Walmart, these look like shower curtain rings, and can be opened and then clipped onto something to connect it. Clip important things like the passport baggie onto your handbag or carry-on and clip that to your suitcase. Big bulky bags that you must let go of while tending to other concerns are an obvious target for thieves. Keep paperwork, identification, money, and expensive items slung over your shoulder or even hidden on your body (you can buy under-clothing pouches for slim items) depending on the safety of the location. However, don't hide anything you will need immediately. Bring snacks in case you get hungry. Bring light snacks for quick trips or places where you can purchase meals and heartier ones for long bus/plane/train/car rides. If you have allergies or conditions that call for certain foods (e.g. gluten-free or nut-free) and won't have many options while traveling (planes that offer meals usually cater to this), bring more filling snacks. Bring entertainment in case you get bored. Diaries (and pens), travel-size games, decks of cards, books, and mobile devices are huge boredom-killers during long rides. Remember that trips are meant for fun and rest, not stress! Don't fret too much over organizing and planning. If it gets too stressful for you, have a traveling agency plan your voyage. Sites like tripadvisor.com or seatguru.com can help you find reviews of places, hotels, restaurants, and airlines as well as good seats and hot deals. Know which items not to bring on a plane. This applies to safety, size, weight, and even food, as there are restrictions on all of these. Safety restrictions vary between countries but include obvious safety hazards (knives in your carry-on, flammable liquids in any of your luggage), not-so-obvious hazards (nail clippers or files in your carry-on), and a few seemingly inexplicable items (an unopened bottle of water on US flights – unless you purchased it after going through security). Weight and size restrictions depend on the airline, so check their website ahead of time for more information. Most medium duffel bags and hand luggage marketed as carry-on will be accepted into the cabin. Avoid bringing peanuts on planes. These can cause allergic reactions in other passengers. If crossing international borders, don't bring agricultural items (fruits, vegetables, seeds), meats, or dairy products. Though you may be able to get away with it in some countries, many regulate these items to reduce the spread of nonnative species and disease. Separate liquids from the rest of your carry-on. Liquids should be easily accessible so that you can remove them for inspection while going through security. In the US, there are very specific liquid and gel allowances: You are allowed to bring a maximum of 3.4 ounces of a liquid/gel per container (not total). For example, a 2-ounce bottle of shampoo, a 2-ounce bottle of toothpaste, and a 3.4-ounce bottle of face wash would be okay. All individual containers of liquid must be placed together inside a resealable 1-quart bag (provided for you if necessary as you move through the security line). Before you and your luggage go through the scanners, you will have to place the bag of liquids by itself on the luggage conveyor belt so that it can be inspected if necessary. To circumvent the hassle of packing and storing liquids separately, bring solid toiletries (ex. solid deodorant, powder concealer, etc.). You can also put liquids in your carry-on bag. Liquid allowances don't usually apply to prescription medication (provided that you have documentation with you to verify), infant formula, breast milk, or the like. Just be sure to store these separately from your other liquids and inform an agent that you have them. Avoid checking in luggage if possible. Many airlines pad their bank accounts by charging passengers for check-in luggage. Even if you don't mind the extra expense, waiting for check-in luggage to be processed and redistributed after arrival can add another half hour or more to your airport experience – and occasionally, bags that don't make the flight must be sent to you at a much later date. If you are traveling with kids, make sure each one carries the maximum amount of luggage allowed (if possible) so that, as a group, you can bring more items into the cabin. Wear your heaviest clothing (such as jeans, running shoes/tennis shoes, sweatshirt) while traveling to save on space. Consider replacing your jeans with light-weight travel pants which take less space and dry quickly. Consider getting a TSA-approved laptop bag. If you are flying in or through the US and your laptop is inside your bag together with other items, you will be asked to remove it before your things are X-rayed, which can slow down the line and create a mess if not properly organized. If you're still luggage-hunting, you might want to get a bag designed to avoid this process (usually consisting of a laptop flap that folds away from the rest of the bag so that the laptop can be X-rayed by itself without technically being removed). Keep your most important items in your smallest bag. Most airlines allow one small and one medium piece of carry-on so that people are still able to bring things, like purses and diaper bags. Since you will most likely be stowing the larger of the two bags in the overhead bin, avoid putting things you will want during the flight (ex. a sweater, book, or snack) up there or you will have to stand in the aisle and dig through it mid-flight. Distribute heavy items evenly between bags. Most trains have huge luggage allowances, making them a great alternative to planes in some situations. Like on planes, these items are often stored in overhead bins, but since you may be dealing with full-sized luggage instead of little bags, lifting them up and getting them back down can be tricky. Make sure you don't have any one bag that feels like a ton of bricks or you may find yourself stuck in the aisle with shaky knees and a bag over your head asking strangers to bail you out. Keep valuables on your person. Stowing luggage in the overhead bin might make you feel so much like you're on a plane that you decide it's safe to put important items there, but remember that your stuff won't be monitored by attendants and that passengers get on and off trains all the time. Carry your valuables with you at all times, especially if you plan to stretch your legs, get snacks, or nap. Make sure the train offers snacks before deciding not to pack any. Most trains do (or stop at places where either vendors come aboard with food or you can quickly pop out and get some), but if you're traveling in a country where you aren't as familiar with the customs or train protocol, make sure you don't find yourself on a 18-hour overnighter without a scrap of food or drink.

Make a checklist of every item you plan to take on your trip. Plan your outfits ahead of time to avoid over-packing. Buy travel-size containers for your toiletries, regardless of the length of your trip. If you will be going through customs, check your luggage prior to packing. Place heavy items at the bottom of your bag, especially if it is an upright model. Pack clothing using the time-honored "roll" technique. Pack sweaters, jackets, and underwear in reusable compression bags, which can create up to 75% more space in your luggage. Place breakable items, like jewelry or glass, wrapped in socks and tucked into shoes inside your luggage. Buy wide clip rings. Bring snacks in case you get hungry. Bring entertainment in case you get bored. Remember that trips are meant for fun and rest, not stress! Know which items not to bring on a plane. Separate liquids from the rest of your carry-on. Avoid checking in luggage if possible. Consider getting a TSA-approved laptop bag. Keep your most important items in your smallest bag. Distribute heavy items evenly between bags. Keep valuables on your person. Make sure the train offers snacks before deciding not to pack any.

https://www.wikihow.com/Simplify-a-Ratio

How to Simplify a Ratio

To simplify a ratio, start by factoring out both numbers in the ratio. Then, find the greatest common factor, which is the highest factor that both numbers in the ratio share. Finally, divide both numbers by the greatest common factor to get the simplified ratio. For example, in the ratio 15:21, the greatest common factor is 3. Therefore, you'd divide both 15 and 21 by 3 to get 5:7, which is the simplified ratio.

Look at the ratio. A ratio is an expression used to compare two quantities. A simplified ratio can be taken as is, but if a ratio has not yet been simplified, you should do so to make the quantities easier to compare and understand. In order to simplify a ratio, you divide both terms (both sides of the ratio) by the same number. This process is equivalent to reducing a fraction. Example: 15 : 21 {\displaystyle 15:21} Note that neither number in this example is a prime number. Since that is the case, you'll need to factor both numbers to determine whether or not the two terms have any identical factors that can cancel each other in the simplification process. Factor the first term. A factor is a whole number (or expression) that can evenly divide into the term, leaving another whole number (or expression) as the quotient. Both terms in the ratio must share at least one factor (other than the number 1 ) or the ratio cannot be simplified. Before you can determine if the terms do share a factor, you must discover what the factors of each term are. Example: The number 15 has four factors: 1 , 3 , 5 , 15 {\displaystyle 1,3,5,15} 15 1 = 15 {\displaystyle {\frac {15}{1}}=15} 15 3 = 5 {\displaystyle {\frac {15}{3}}=5} Factor the second term. In a separate space, list all the factors of the ratio's second term. At this point do not consider the factors of the first term; focus only on factoring this second term. Example: The number 21 has four factors: 1, 3, 7, 21 21 1 = 21 {\displaystyle {\frac {21}{1}}=21} 21 3 = 7 {\displaystyle {\frac {21}{3}}=7} Find the greatest common factor. Look at the factors for both terms of the ratio. Circle, list, or otherwise identify any factors that appear in both lists. If the only shared factor is 1 , then the ratio is already in its simplest form, and no further work needs to be done. If the two terms of the ratio have other shared factors, however, sort through them and identify the highest factor common to both lists. This number is the greatest common factor (GCF). Example: Both 15 and 21 share two common factors: 1 and 3 The GCF for the two terms of the original ratio is 3. Divide both terms by the greatest common factor. Since both terms of the original ratio contain the GCF, you can divide each term by that number and come up with whole numbers as a result. Both terms must be divided by the GCF. Example: Both 15 and 21 are divided by 3. 15 3 = 5 {\displaystyle {\frac {15}{3}}=5} 21 3 = 7 {\displaystyle {\frac {21}{3}}=7} Write down the new simplified ratio. You are left with two new terms. The new ratio is equivalent in value to the original ratio, meaning that the terms in one ratio are in the same proportion as the terms in the other ratio. Note that the terms of the new ratio should not share any common factors between them (other than 1). If they do, the ratio is not yet in simplest form. Example: 5 : 7 {\displaystyle 5:7} The point of all this is that the simplified ratio 5:7 is easier to work with than the original ratio 15:21. Look at the ratio. As is true of any ratio, an algebraic ratio compares two quantities, although in this case variables (letters) have been introduced into one or both terms. You will need to simplify numerical terms (as shown above) as well as any variables when finding a ratio's simplified form. Example: 18 x 2 : 72 x {\displaystyle 18x^{2}:72x} Factor both terms. Remember that factors can be whole numbers which divide evenly into a given quantity. Look at the numerical values in both terms of the ratio. Write out all factors for both numerical terms in separate lists. Example: To solve this problem, you will need to find the factors of 18 and 72. The factors of 18 are: 1, 2, 3, 6, 9, 18 The factors of 72 are: 1, 2, 3, 4, 6, 8, 9, 12, 18, 24, 36, 72 Find the greatest common factor. Go through both factor lists and circle, underline, or otherwise identify all of the factors shared by both lists. From this new selection of numbers, identify the highest number. This value is the greatest factor common to both of the numerical terms. Note, however, that this value represents only part of the greatest common factor within the ratio. (We still have the variables to deal with.) Example: Both 18 and 72 share several factors: 1, 2, 3, 6, 9, and 18. Of these factors, 18 is the greatest. Divide both sides by the greatest common factor. You should be able to evenly divide both numerical terms by the GCF. Do so now, and write down the whole numbers that you get as a result. These numbers will be part of the final simplified ratio. Example: Both 18 and 72 are now divided by the factor 18. 18 18 = 1 {\displaystyle {\frac {18}{18}}=1} 72 18 = 4 {\displaystyle {\frac {72}{18}}=4} Factor out the variable if possible. Look at the variable in both terms of the ratio. If the same variable appears in both terms, it can be factored out. If there are exponents (powers) applied to the variable in both terms, deal with them now. If the exponents are the same in both terms, they cancel each other completely. If the exponents are not the same, subtract the smaller exponent from the larger. This completely cancels the variable with the smaller exponent and leaves the other variable with a diminished exponent. Understand that by subtracting one power from the other, you are essentially dividing the larger variable amount by the smaller one. Example: When examined separately, the ratio of variables was: x 2 : x {\displaystyle x^{2}:x} You can factor out an x {\displaystyle x} from both terms. The power of the first x {\displaystyle x} is 2, and the power of the second x {\displaystyle x} is 1. As such, one x {\displaystyle x} can be factored out from both terms. The first term will be left with one x {\displaystyle x} , and the second term will be left with no x {\displaystyle x}. x ( x : 1 ) {\displaystyle x(x:1)} x : 1 {\displaystyle x:1} Note all of the greatest common factor. Combine the GCF of the numerical values with the GCF of the variables to find the full GCF. This GCF is the term that must be factored out of both terms of the ratio. Example: The greatest common factor in this example is 18 x {\displaystyle 18x}. 18 x ⋅ ( x : 4 ) {\displaystyle 18x\cdot (x:4)} Write the simplified ratio. After you remove the GCF, the remaining ratio is the simplified form of the original ratio. This new ratio is proportionally equivalent to the original ratio. Note again that the two terms of the final ratio must not share any common factors (except 1). Example: x : 4 {\displaystyle x:4} Look at the ratio. Polynomial ratios are more complex than other ratio types. There are still two quantities being compared, but the factors of those quantities are not as obvious, and the simplification may take slightly longer to perform. Nonetheless, the basic principle and steps remain the same. Example: ( x 2 − 8 x + 15 ) : ( x 2 − 3 x − 10 ) {\displaystyle (x^{2}-8x+15):(x^{2}-3x-10)} Separate the first term into factors. You'll need to factor out a polynomial from the first term. There are various methods you can use to complete this step, so you will need to use your knowledge of quadratic equations and other complex polynomials to determine the best method to use. Example: For this ratio you can use the decomposition method of factorization. x 2 − 8 x + 15 {\displaystyle x^{2}-8x+15} Multiply the a and c terms together: 1 ⋅ 15 = 15 {\displaystyle 1\cdot 15=15} Find two numbers that equal this number when multiplied and add up to the value of the b term: − 5 , − 3 [ − 5 ⋅ − 3 = 15 ; − 5 + − 3 = − 8 ] {\displaystyle -5,-3[-5\cdot -3=15;-5+-3=-8]} Substitute these two numbers into the original expression: x 2 − 5 x − 3 x + 15 {\displaystyle x^{2}-5x-3x+15} Factor by grouping: ( x − 3 ) ⋅ ( x − 5 ) {\displaystyle (x-3)\cdot (x-5)} Split the second term into factors. The second term of the ratio must be broken down into factors, too. Example: Use any method desired to break down the second expression into factors: x 2 − 3 x − 10 {\displaystyle x^{2}-3x-10} ( x − 5 ) ⋅ ( x + 2 ) {\displaystyle (x-5)\cdot (x+2)} Cancel out common factors. Compare the two factored forms of the original expressions. Note that a factor in this application is any expression set in parentheses. If any of the parenthetical factors are common to both terms of the ratio, those factors can be canceled out. Example: The factored form of the ratio is written as: [ ( x − 3 ) ( x − 5 ) ] : [ ( x − 5 ) ( x + 2 ) ] {\displaystyle [(x-3)(x-5)]:[(x-5)(x+2)]} The common factor in both terms is: ( x − 5 ) {\displaystyle (x-5)} When the common factor is removed, the ratio can then be written as: [ ( x − 3 ) : ( x + 2 ) ] {\displaystyle [(x-3):(x+2)]} Write the simplified ratio. The two terms in the final ratio should have no factors in common. This new ratio will be equivalent in proportion to the original ratio. Example: ( x − 3 ) : ( x + 2 ) {\displaystyle (x-3):(x+2)}

Look at the ratio. Factor the first term. Factor the second term. Find the greatest common factor. Divide both terms by the greatest common factor. Write down the new simplified ratio. Look at the ratio. Factor both terms. Find the greatest common factor. Divide both sides by the greatest common factor. Factor out the variable if possible. Note all of the greatest common factor. Write the simplified ratio. Look at the ratio. Separate the first term into factors. Split the second term into factors. Cancel out common factors. Write the simplified ratio.

https://www.wikihow.com/Make-a-Gift-Bag

How to Make a Gift Bag

To make a gift bag, place a piece of sturdy paper on a solid surface, landscape style, and fold the top edge down. Next, fold the paper towards the center to make a tube, and secure it with glue or tape. Then, unfold the top flap, glue the bottom flap, and press the top flap back down. Fold up the bottom edge to make the base of your bag, open the pocket you created, and flatten it. Finally, fold the two tabs on the bottom of the bag towards the center and finish by securing the bottom with tape or glue.

Choose a material to work with. You can make paper bags out of just about any type of paper you want, including: brown kraft paper, patterned scrapbooking paper, and wrapping paper. Cardstock is not recommended, however, because it is too stiff. If the paper is not the right size, cut it down. Make sure that it's a rectangle. For an extra-fancy gift bag, consider using fancy wrapping paper with either glittered or flocked designs. Decorate plain paper. If you are working with plain, solid-colored paper, such as brown kraft paper, it would be a good idea to decorate it. This will make it look more like a gift bag and less like a paper sack. Get out some paint and stencils, and add some pretty designs onto it. Alternatively, you can add a simple pattern using rubber stamps and an ink pad or acrylic paint. For a fancier touch, draw your designs with glue, then sprinkle extra-fine glitter onto them before the glue dries. Be sure to let the paper dry before moving on. Fold the top edge down to create a seam. Orient the paper landscape style, with the designed or decorated part facing up. Fold the top, long edge down by 1 to 2 inches (2.54 to 5.08 centimeters). Run your fingernail along the crease to sharpen it. For a fancier touch, trim the edge with a pair of pinking shears first, before folding it. Flip the paper over so that the back is facing you. The folded part should now be flat against your work surface. Make sure that it is still along the top edge of the paper. If you are using plain paper, with neither a front or back, skip this step. The folded edge will be on the inside. Fold the narrow edges towards the center of the paper to make a tube. Overlap them by ½ inch (1.27 centimeters). If you'd like, you can run your fingernail along the side edges to make creases. If you'd like a more "oval" shaped bag, however, don't crease the sides. Secure the edges with glue or tape. Unfold the top flap. Run a glue stick or lay down a strip of double-sided tape along the side edge of the bottom flap. Press the top flap back down. Run your finger along the seam to seal it. If you used a glue stick, make sure that you don't get any glue on the inside of the bag. Fold bottom edge up by a few inches. The more you fold it up by, the wider the base of your bag will be. Aim for about 3 to 5 inches (7.62 to 12.7 centimeters). Open up the pocket created by the fold and flatten it. When you folded the bottom part of the bag up, you will have created a pocket. Fold the top part of the pocket down and flatten it. Run your fingernail along the angled sides to create creases. You should have something that looks like a diamond, with the inside of the bag showing as a rectangle at the center. Fold the top and bottom center tabs towards the center. The "diamond" on the bottom of your bag has two tabs or flaps at the top and bottom. Fold them towards the center of the diamond; they will overlap slightly. Secure the bottom of the bag with tape or glue. Unfold the top flap. Run a glue stick along the bottom one or lay down a few strips of double-sided tape. Press the top flap back down and run your finger across the seams to seal them. Punch two holes for the handles on the front and back of the bag. The holes should be about ½ inch (1.27 centimeters) from the top edge. They should be closer to each other than the sides of the bag. If your paper is thin enough, you can punch the holes through both layers of paper at the same time. Consider inserting eyelets into the holes. This makes them sturdier as well as adds an element of design. Cut some ribbon for handles. Measure and cut two equal lengths of ribbon. For a more rustic touch, you can use strong, cording, yarn, or twine instead. Choose colors that go well with your bag. Avoid skinny ribbons. The knots won't be big enough to hold it inside the bag. Add the ribbon handles. Thread each end of your first ribbon through each hole on the front of your bag. Tie the ends of the ribbon into knots on the inside of your bag. Flip your bag over, and do the same for the back. Fold the sides of the bag if you wish to make it a rectangle. If you were to open your bag now, it will be shaped more like an oval sack. If you want to make it a rectangle, like a traditional bag, do the following: Fold left and right side edges down until the base of the bag is the same width as the top. Run your fingernail along the edges to make creases. Unfold the edges and flip the bag over. Fold the sides again, and run your fingernail along the edges to make creases. Open the bag. Your bag is now ready to use! Insert some coordinating tissue paper and tuck your gift inside. Add more tissue paper, if needed, and fluff it out. If you folded the bag to make it a rectangle, like a traditional bag, you may have to adjust the folds you made. Choose a material to work with. You can make gift bags out of just about any type of paper you want, such as: brown kraft paper, patterned scrapbooking paper, and wrapping paper. Pick one that works best with the occasion. Cardstock is not recommended, however, because it is too stiff. For an extra-fancy gift bag, use fancy wrapping paper with either glittered or flocked designs. Decorate plain paper. If you are use with plain, solid-colored paper, such as brown kraft paper, you might want to decorate it. This will make it look more like a gift bag and less like a paper sack. Use paint and stencils to add some pretty designs onto it. You can also use rubber stamps to create a simple pattern instead. Be sure to let the paper dry before moving on. For a fancier bag, draw your designs with glue first, then sprinkle them with extra fine glitter. Choose a small, gift bag-sized box to use as your template. You will be folding your paper around this box, so make sure that it is bigger than your desired gift. You can use any type of box you want, including: breakfast bar boxes, cereal boxes, instant oatmeal boxes, shoe boxes, gift boxes, etc. Trace and cut the base for your bag out of thin cardboard. Trace the skinny end of your box onto a sheet of thin cardboard using a pen or pencil. Cut the resulting rectangle out with a craft blade, and set it aside. You will be putting this into the bottom of your bag. Use white cardboard or another color that matches your paper. Cut two thin strips out of the thin cardboard. These will make supports for the handles. They need to be a little narrower than your bag and about 1 to 2 inches (2.54 to 5.08 centimeters) wide. Set these aside as well after you cut them. These will be inside the top hem of your bag. The color for these does not matter. Cut your desired paper down to size, if needed. It needs to be a rectangle and large enough to wrap around your box, like a present. This includes wrapping around the side of the box as well. Orient your paper landscape style and fold the top edge down to make a hem. Fold the top, long edge by 1 to 2 inches (2.54 to 5.08 centimeters). Run your fingernail along the folded edge to make a crease. This will add a nice finish to the top of your bag. The hem needs to be the same width as your cardboard strips. If your paper has a pattern on it, make sure that the pattern is facing down and the blank side is facing you. Wrap the paper around your box. Trim off any excess paper and overlap the two narrow ends by ½ inch (1.27 centimeters). Try to place the seam at one of the box's edges inside of the front, back, or side face. Secure the edges with double-sided tape or a glue stick. Wrap the bottom of the box like you would a present. Fold the side edges of the paper down first, right against the box. Run your fingernail along the angles on the top and bottom flaps to make creases. Fold the top and bottom flaps against the bottom of the box, and secure them with a glue stick or double-sided tape. Remove the box. If you'd like, you can pinch the corners of the bag first before you remove the box. At this point, you can put the box away. You won't be using it again for the remainder of this tutorial. Flatten the bag and make the side creases, if desired. Flatten the bag and tuck the sides inside, just like a real paper gift bag. Run your fingernail along the edges to make crisp seams. You only have to make the seams about half-way down. This is not completely necessary, but it will add a professional touch to your bag. Add the handle supports. Run a glue stick or lay down a strip of double-sided tape along one of your thin cardboard strips. Open up the hem on the front of your bag. Slide the strip inside, and press the hem flat. Repeat for the back of the bag with the other strip. Glue the cardboard rectangle to the inside bottom of your bag. Draw a cross on the cardboard rectangle with a glue stick or double-sided tape. Place the cardboard glue-side or tape-side down into the bag, and press it against the bottom. Punch two holes for the handles on the front and back of the bag. The holes should be about ½ inch (1.27 centimeters) from the top edge of the bag. They should be closer to each other than to the sides of the bag. For a fancier touch, add eyelets into the holes. Cut some ribbon for the handles. Measure and cut two equal lengths of ribbon. Choose a color that goes well with your bag. For a rustic touch, you can use cording, string, twine, or even yarn. Avoid anything that is too skinny, however; the knots won't be big enough to hold. Add the handles. Thread the ends of your first ribbon through both holes on the front of your bag. Tie the ends into knots on the inside of your bag. Repeat with the other ribbon for the back. Use the bag. Open the bag up and tuck in some tissue paper. Insert your gift and add more tissue paper, if needed. Fluff the tissue paper out.

Choose a material to work with. Decorate plain paper. Fold the top edge down to create a seam. Flip the paper over so that the back is facing you. Fold the narrow edges towards the center of the paper to make a tube. Secure the edges with glue or tape. Fold bottom edge up by a few inches. Open up the pocket created by the fold and flatten it. Fold the top and bottom center tabs towards the center. Secure the bottom of the bag with tape or glue. Punch two holes for the handles on the front and back of the bag. Cut some ribbon for handles. Add the ribbon handles. Fold the sides of the bag if you wish to make it a rectangle. Open the bag. Choose a material to work with. Decorate plain paper. Choose a small, gift bag-sized box to use as your template. Trace and cut the base for your bag out of thin cardboard. Cut two thin strips out of the thin cardboard. Cut your desired paper down to size, if needed. Orient your paper landscape style and fold the top edge down to make a hem. Wrap the paper around your box. Wrap the bottom of the box like you would a present. Remove the box. Flatten the bag and make the side creases, if desired. Add the handle supports. Glue the cardboard rectangle to the inside bottom of your bag. Punch two holes for the handles on the front and back of the bag. Cut some ribbon for the handles. Add the handles. Use the bag.

https://www.wikihow.com/Write-an-Index

How to Write an Index

An index is an alphabetical list of keywords found in a book or other lengthy writing project. It will have the chapters or page numbers where readers can find that keyword and more information about it. Typically, you'll write your index after you've completed the main writing and research. In general, you'll want to index items that are nouns, like ideas, concepts, and things, that add to the subject of the text. For example, a dessert cookbook might have an entry for “ice cream” followed by subentries for “strawberry,” “chocolate,” and “vanilla.”

Choose your indexing source. When you start working on your index, you may want to use printed proof pages, or work directly from the computer screen. A searchable PDF will help you find the words you're indexing without disturbing the text. Typically, if you index from a hard copy you'll have to transfer your work to a digital file. If the work is particularly long, try to work straight from the computer so you can skip this extra step. Decide what needs to be indexed. Generally speaking, you'll want to index the entire text of your work, including the introduction and any footnotes or endnotes that expand on the content of the text. Typically, indexed items are nouns, like ideas, concepts, and things, that contribute to the subject of the text. If footnotes or endnotes are merely source citations, they don't need to be included in the index. Generally, you don't need to index glossaries, bibliographies, acknowledgements, or illustrative items such as charts and graphs. If you're not sure whether something should be indexed, ask yourself if it contributes something substantial to the text. If it doesn't, it typically doesn't need to be indexed. List cited authors if necessary. Some publishers may require you to index any authors cited, either in text or footnotes. This may require a separate index, or they may be included in your general index. Check with your advisor or editor if you're not sure. In most cases, if you have a "works cited" section appearing at the end of your text you won't need to index authors. You would still include their names in the general index, however, if you discussed them in the text rather than simply citing their work. Create index cards for entries if you’re indexing by hand. As you read through your work, make a list of the keywords or main concepts discussed in the text. Many of these you may already know off the top of your head. Creating an index card for each individual entry can help you sort and organize the entries before typing them up. For example, if you're writing a book on bicycle maintenance, you might have index cards for "gears," "wheels," and "chain." Put yourself in your reader's shoes, and ask yourself why they would pick up your book and what information they would likely be looking for. Chapter or section headings can help guide you as well. Use nouns for the main headings of entries. Nouns referring to people, places, objects, or concepts are the most common nouns indexed. Typically the noun you use will be singular, and will not include any adjectives or phrases. For example, a dessert cookbook that included several types of ice cream might have one entry for "ice cream," followed by subentries for "strawberry," "chocolate," and "vanilla." Treat proper nouns as a single unit. For example, "United States Senate" and "United States House of Representatives" would be separate entries, rather than subentries under the entry "United States." Include subentries for entries with 5 or more pointers. Unless you're working with an extremely long text, a keyword or concept that occurs on more than five pages typically can be broken into smaller parts. Stick to nouns and brief phrases for subentries, avoiding any unnecessary words. For example, suppose you are writing a book about comic books that discusses Wonder Woman's influence on the feminist movement. You might include a subentry under "Wonder Woman" that says "influence on feminism." Identify potential cross references. If you have entries that are similar to each other, you may want to use cross references in your index to link the similar entries. That way your readers will be able to dig further into similar information. For example, if you were writing a dessert cookbook, you might have entries for "ice cream" and "sorbet." Since these frozen treats are similar, they would make good cross references of each other. Confirm the style and formatting requirements. Before you start building your index, you need to know its maximum length and what style guide the publisher wants you to use. Typically, you'll be expected to use the Chicago Manual of Style. The style guide provides specifics for you in terms of spacing, alignment, and punctuation of your entries and subentries. Use the correct punctuation. Generally, you'll put a colon after the header or main entry, then continue with the rest of the entry. If there is more than one subentry, place a semicolon between them. Use commas between subentries and page numbers, and between non-consecutive page numbers. For example, an entry in the index of a political science book might read: "capitalism: 21st century, 164; American free trade, 112; backlash against, 654; expansion of, 42; Russia, 7; and television, 3; treaties, 87." If an entry contains no subentries, simply follow the entry with a comma and list the page numbers. Organize your entries in alphabetical order. If you used the index card method, arrange your cards in alphabetical order and then type the list of main entries into a computer document. You also may be able to use your word-processing app to arrange the entries alphabetically. People's names typically are listed alphabetically by their last name. Put a comma after the last name and add the person's first name. Noun phrases typically are inverted. For example, "adjusting-height saddle" would be listed in an index as "saddle, adjusting-height." Fill in subentries. Once you have your list of entries, you'll add subentries for those entries that have multiple subdivisions. Avoid articles such as "a," "an," and "the" in your subentries, and use "and" sparingly. Avoid repeating words in the entry in the subentries. If several subentries repeat the same word, add it as a separate entry, with a cross reference back to the original entry. For example, in a dessert cookbook you might have entries for "ice cream, flavors" and "ice cream, toppings." Subentries typically are listed alphabetically as well. If subentry terms have symbols, hyphens, slashes, or numbers, you can usually ignore them. Capitalize proper names. While generally you shouldn't capitalize the words in your index, you should capitalize a person's name or the name of a place or event. Check your required style guide if you're unsure whether something should be capitalized. If a proper name, such as the name of a book or song, includes a word such as "a" or "the" at the beginning of the title, you can either omit it or include it after a comma ("Importance of Being Earnest, The"). Check your style guide for the proper rule that applies to your index, and be consistent. Include all page numbers for each entry or subentry. You'll copy the page numbers from your index cards, formatting them according to the rules laid out in your style guide. Generally, you'll include all the digits of the page numbers if they are nonconsecutive numbers. When listing a series of pages, if the first page number is 1-99 or a multiple of 100, you also use all of the digits. For example, "ice cream: vanilla, 100-109." For other numbers, you generally only have to list the digits that changed for subsequent page numbers. For example, "ice cream: vanilla, 112-18." Use the word passim if references are scattered over a range of pages. For example, "ice cream: vanilla, 45-68 passim. Only use this if there are a large number of references within that range of pages. Add cross references with the phrase “See also. ” Cross references introduced by the words "see also" direct your reader to other entries in your index that may include related or similar information to that contained in the original entry. Place a period after the last page number in the entry, then type See also in italics, with the word "see" capitalized. Then include the name of the similar entry you want to use. For example, an entry in an index for a dessert cookbook might contain the following entry: "ice cream: chocolate, 4, 17, 24; strawberry, 9, 37; vanilla, 18, 25, 32-35. See also sorbet." Include “See” references to avoid confusion. Unlike "see also" cross references, "see" references are used when you want to include a common term that a reader might use, but which isn't technically included in your text for whatever reason. For example, a beginning cyclist may be looking in a manual for "tire patches," which are called "boots" in cycling terms. If you're writing a bicycle manual aimed at beginners, you might include a "see" cross reference: "tire patches, see boots." Use the "search" function to check your pointers. If you are using either a PDF or a word-processing document, you have a search function that you can use to locate specific keywords or other terms. You'll also want to search for related terms, especially if you talk about a general concept in the text without necessarily mentioning it by name. Simplify entries to suit your readers. The point of your index is to make your work more readable and usable for your readers. All of your entries should include the terms or topics readers would intuitively look for. If you have any entries that are too complex or that might confuse your readers, you might want to simplify them or add a cross reference. For example, a bicycle maintenance text might discuss "derailleurs," but a novice would more likely look for terms such as "gearshift" or "shifter" and might not recognize that term. Include descriptions of subentries where helpful. If all the subentries have something in common, you can include this after the main entry to help guide the reader. Usually this will be helpful if the subentries all fall under the same category. For example, you might include an entry in a dessert cookbook index that read "ice cream, varieties of: chocolate, 54; strawberry, 55; vanilla, 32, 37, 56. See also sorbet." Trim or expand your index as needed. Once you have all the entries and page numbers included, you can more easily see which entries are too short and which are too long. You'll also want to look at the length of the index as a whole to make sure it fits the publisher's guidelines. Generally, an entry should occur on two or three page numbers. If it's only found in one place, you may not need to include it at all. If you decide it is necessary, see if you can include it as a subentry under a different entry. For example, suppose you are indexing a dessert cookbook, and it has ice cream on two pages and sorbet on one page. You might consider putting these together under a larger heading, such as "frozen treats." Check your index for accuracy. Check every page you have listed in your index and make sure the entry can be found there. Adjust any page numbers as necessary to accurately reflect the content of your book. You may want to run searches again to make sure the index is comprehensive and includes as many pointers as possible to help guide your readers. Proofread your entries. Go line by line through your index and make sure all words are spelled correctly and all punctuation is correct and consistent. Even if you use spell check, it's still important to go through the index yourself, since some mistakes may slip past spell checkers. Make sure any cross references match the exact wording of the entry or entries they reference. Set the final dimensions. The publisher will have page dimensions and margins to which your index should be set once all the proofreading and accuracy checking is complete. This may be your responsibility, or the publisher may do it for you. Indexes are typically set in 2 columns, using a smaller font than that used in the main text. Entries begin on the first space of the line, with the subsequent lines of the same entry indented.

Choose your indexing source. Decide what needs to be indexed. List cited authors if necessary. Create index cards for entries if you’re indexing by hand. Use nouns for the main headings of entries. Include subentries for entries with 5 or more pointers. Identify potential cross references. Confirm the style and formatting requirements. Use the correct punctuation. Organize your entries in alphabetical order. Fill in subentries. Capitalize proper names. Include all page numbers for each entry or subentry. Add cross references with the phrase “See also. Include “See” references to avoid confusion. Use the "search" function to check your pointers. Simplify entries to suit your readers. Include descriptions of subentries where helpful. Trim or expand your index as needed. Check your index for accuracy. Proofread your entries. Set the final dimensions.

https://www.wikihow.com/Cook-Bay-Scallops

How to Cook Bay Scallops

Before you cook bay scallops, use your thumb and forefinger to pinch off their side muscles, which feel tough and have tissues running horizontally instead of vertically. Then, rinse them off with cool water and pat them dry with a paper towel so they fry better. After that, season them with as much salt and pepper as you like and fry them in butter or olive oil for 2 minutes on each side. For more even cooking and a better sear, don't jiggle the scallops around as they fry.

Cook the rest of your meal first. Scallops cook quickly, and they're best when they're fresh out of the pan. If you're planning to serve up anything else with your scallops (such as pasta or a salad), prepare that first and have it ready to serve the moment the scallops are done. For example, if you'd like to serve these scallops over toast, toast and butter the bread before you begin cooking the scallops. Remove the side-muscles if necessary. If your scallops still have their fibrous muscle tags attached, pull those off with your thumb and forefinger before you start cooking them. These muscles are easy to recognize because they feel tough and firm to the touch and their fibers go against the grain of the rest of the scallop. Leaving the muscles attached won't do any harm, but they're much tougher and harder to chew than the rest of the scallop. Rinse the scallops thoroughly with cool water. Before you cook the scallops, it's a good idea to rinse them to remove any grit, sand, or other unwanted debris. Put them in a colander before running water over them so they can drain quickly. Draining them quickly is key, since scallops will get waterlogged and mushy if they sit in water for too long. Pat the scallops dry with a paper towel. After the scallops have drained for a few minutes, spread them out on a flat surface covered in paper towels. Use another clean paper towel to gently pat each scallop dry. If you don't pat the scallops dry before searing them, you'll end up with tougher steamed scallops instead of tender, pan-seared ones. Sprinkle the scallops on both sides with salt and pepper. How much you use is up to you. If you like things spicy, use more pepper. If you like things salty, use more salt. Heat a saucepan over medium-high heat with butter or olive oil. Place 1 tablespoon (14.2 grams) of unsalted butter or 1 tablespoon (15 mL) of olive oil in the pan and turn on the heat. Gently swirl the pan to coat the bottom evenly with the butter or oil. The pan needs to be very hot in order for the scallops to cook properly. You can tell the pan is hot enough if you drop some water on the pan and it evaporates instantly. Place the scallops on the pan about 1 inch (2.5 cm) apart. Keep them in a single layer. If you are cooking a lot of scallops, you may need to cook them in several batches. The scallops won't cook properly if the pan is overcrowded. The first scallop should sizzle when you place it on the pan. If it doesn't, wait a few more seconds before adding the rest. Cook the scallops for 2 minutes. Don't move them around or jiggle the pan. If you do this, they won't sear or heat evenly. The scallops need to sit undisturbed in the pan long enough to develop a slightly hardened, golden-brown layer on the side facing the pan. Flip the scallops and cook them for another 2 to 3 minutes. If the scallops don't peel off the pan easily, let them cook for a few more seconds. You can use a pair of tongs or a flat spatula to flip them. Again, don't jiggle the pan or move the scallops around while they're cooking. Transfer the scallops to a plate once they are done. Both side of the scallop should be opaque and golden-brown, and they should look opaque all the way through. They should be firm, but somewhat squishy, when you press down on them. Don't overcook the scallops, of they'll end up tough and chewy. Serve up the scallops while they’re still warm. Serve the scallops immediately with your favorite sauce, pasta, or vegetable. The longer they sit, the less fresh they will taste. You can serve these scallops over pasta or couscous with a little lemon or olive oil, or add them to a salad! If you don't eat all of your scallops, you can store them in the refrigerator in a well-sealed container for 3-4 days. You can also freeze them in an airtight container for 2-3 months. Heat a skillet over high heat with some olive oil. Add about 1.5 tablespoons (22 mL) of olive oil to the pan and turn on the heat to high. The pan is ready when the oil begins to smoke. Add the scallops as soon as you see the oil start to smoke. If you wait too long, your scallops will end up with an unpleasant smell and taste. Add the scallops into the skillet and cook them for 30 seconds. Try to spread them around so that they lay across the pan in a single layer. Don't stir the scallops during these 30 seconds. Letting the scallops sit undisturbed will give them a chance to sear a little bit. Stir in the garlic and cook the scallops for 30 more seconds. Once the scallops have cooked undisturbed for 30 seconds, give the pan a gentle toss to move the scallops around. Then, add the minced garlic to the pan and stir it in with a spoon or spatula. Keep stirring for the next 30 seconds. After about 30 seconds of cooking, the garlic should become fragrant. If not, give it a few more seconds. Boil the scallops in wine and lemon juice for 30 seconds. Give the scallops a stir to mix in the wine and lemon juice, then let them come to a boil. Let the scallops cook like this for 30 more seconds. Stir in the parsley and butter, then remove the pan from the heat. Make sure the butter is cold and hard, and cut it into cubes. Stir it in along with the chopped parsley, then take the pan off the hot burner. Don't wait for the butter to melt while the pan is still on the stove. The pan will be hot enough to melt the butter even after you take it off the heat. Add the rest of the spices after the butter melts. Once you take the pan off the heat, the butter should finish melting in a few seconds. When the butter is completely melted, add the salt, black pepper, and cayenne pepper. Give the scallops a stir to distribute the spices evenly. Serve the scallops hot over toast or pasta. As soon as you've stirred in the spices, serve up the scallops immediately. You can spoon them over buttered toast or serve them over the pasta of your choice. The sooner you serve the scallops, the better they'll taste! You can save any leftover scallops in an airtight container in the fridge for 3-4 days, or keep them in the freezer for 2-3 months. Heat the cooking oil in a deep pot. Pour the canola oil into a large, deep pot and cook it on the stove over medium-high heat. Use a deep-fry thermometer to test the heat of the oil. It's ready when the thermometer reads 330 °F (166 °C). You should have time to prepare the other ingredients while the oil is heating. Season the scallops with salt and pepper. Put the scallops in a baking dish and generously sprinkle them on both sides with salt and black pepper. Set the seasoned scallops aside. Whisk the eggs and place the flour and breadcrumbs in bowls. Crack the eggs into a small bowl and whisk them with a fork until they're well-blended. Set the bowl aside on the counter near the stove. Pour the flour and breadcrumbs into 2 separate shallow bowls or dishes and put them next to the eggs. You can use plain breadcrumbs or "flavored" ones (such as garlic) for something fancier. However, if you choose flavored breadcrumbs, you may need to adjust the amount of other seasonings you use. Lightly toss the scallops in the flour. You want them to be lightly coated with the flour. Because of how many scallops you have, consider working with only a few at a time. Shake the excess flour off of the scallops after you remove them from the bowl. Dip the scallops in the eggs next. After taking the scallops out of the flour, drop them into the bowl with the whisked eggs. Use your clean hand (the one not coated with flour) to gently shake the bowl around and toss the scallops in the egg. After the scallops are coated with egg, you can either remove them with your hand that's already messy or take them out with a slotted spoon. Using a slotted spoon will help keep you from wasting any of the egg. Toss the scallops into the breadcrumbs. Once you've taken the scallops out of the egg, drop them into the bowl with the breadcrumbs. Use your clean hand to cover the scallops with crumbs or roll them around with a spoon. Make sure that they are evenly coated with the breadcrumbs. As you coat the scallops, place them in a single layer on a large baking sheet. Continue until you've coated all the scallops. Put about half the scallops in the oil and cook them for 30 seconds. Take the coated scallops 1 at a time and gently drop them into the oil. To prevent splashing, hold the scallops low over the oil before dropping them in. Make sure to test the temperature of the oil before you start cooking the scallops. Stir the scallops and cook them for another 2 minutes. After about 30 seconds of cooking, stir the scallops with a slotted spoon to prevent them from sticking together. Let them continue to cook for another 1 and ½ to 2 minutes. Test the temperature of the oil occasionally and adjust the heat as needed. The scallops should be done when the breading is golden brown. You can also test them by inserting a cake tester into the middle of the scallop and holding it below your lip—it should feel warm, but not hot. Since bay scallops are small, they may cook relatively quickly. Start checking them at around 1 and ½ minutes of cooking time. Remove the scallops from the oil and add the next batch. Once the first batch of scallops is done cooking, place them on a plate lined with paper towels and allow them to sit while you cook the next batch. This will help soak up the excess oil. You may wish to cover the cooked scallops lightly with foil or keep them warm in an oven heated to 300 °F (149 °C) while the other scallops are frying. Serve the fried scallops with cocktail or tartar sauce. Once the scallops are cooked, serve them up while they're still hot. They'll taste great dipped in tartar or cocktail sauce! You can also squeeze lemon juice over them for extra zest. These scallops will taste best and be at their crispiest if you eat them while they're fresh from the fryer. If you have to store them, keep them in a well-ventilated container in the fridge for no more than 1-2 days.

Cook the rest of your meal first. Remove the side-muscles if necessary. Rinse the scallops thoroughly with cool water. Pat the scallops dry with a paper towel. Sprinkle the scallops on both sides with salt and pepper. Heat a saucepan over medium-high heat with butter or olive oil. Place the scallops on the pan about 1 inch (2.5 cm) apart. Cook the scallops for 2 minutes. Flip the scallops and cook them for another 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer the scallops to a plate once they are done. Serve up the scallops while they’re still warm. Heat a skillet over high heat with some olive oil. Add the scallops into the skillet and cook them for 30 seconds. Stir in the garlic and cook the scallops for 30 more seconds. Boil the scallops in wine and lemon juice for 30 seconds. Stir in the parsley and butter, then remove the pan from the heat. Add the rest of the spices after the butter melts. Serve the scallops hot over toast or pasta. Heat the cooking oil in a deep pot. Season the scallops with salt and pepper. Whisk the eggs and place the flour and breadcrumbs in bowls. Lightly toss the scallops in the flour. Dip the scallops in the eggs next. Toss the scallops into the breadcrumbs. Put about half the scallops in the oil and cook them for 30 seconds. Stir the scallops and cook them for another 2 minutes. Remove the scallops from the oil and add the next batch. Serve the fried scallops with cocktail or tartar sauce.

https://www.wikihow.com/Make-Watermelon-Juice

How to Make Watermelon Juice

To make blended watermelon juice, slice a watermelon into 1 inch chunks and pour them into a blender. Add cold water, ice cubes, and powdered sugar or honey for a sweeter juice. Blend until the mixture is smooth. For a fresher taste, consider adding mint and lemon juice, or mixing and matching with other fruits like raspberries and pomegranate seeds. Add 7-Up for a crisp, carbonated flavor.

Gather your ingredients. You will need: 1 seedless watermelon Powdered sugar or honey to taste Cold water and ice cubes Place your watermelon on a cutting board. Peel the watermelon and slice it into 1" (2.5 cm) chunks using a sharp knife. Place the watermelon chunks into a bowl, into a rubber container or onto a plate. Use a fork instead of using your hands to prevent messiness. Place the watermelon in a blender. Add powdered sugar or honey, if desired. Blend your watermelon chunks and sweetener and check the consistency. Add water for thinner juice and add ice cubes for thicker juice. Blend well until the juice is smooth. Pour the juice over ice cubes in a tall glass. You can strain the juice, if you wish, to remove the pulp. Gather your ingredients. You will need: 7 sprigs of mint Juice of 1 1/2 lemons 1 tablespoon of sugar 2 small seedless watermelons Cut the rinds off the watermelons. Slice the flesh into 1" (2.5 cm) chunks. Blend the chunks, mint, and lemon juice until the mixture is smooth. Pour the watermelon mixture through a sieve and into a saucepan. Press down on the watermelon using a wooden spoon to release the most juice. Mix the juice with sugar. Heat your saucepan over a medium-low setting. Bring the juice to a simmer, but don't allow it to boil. Continue simmering the juice. Taste it frequently to see how the flavors are developing. When the juice is ready, remove it from the heat and let it cool. Pour the juice into a container and chill it. Serve the chilled juice in a tall glass over ice. Garnish the juice with a mint leaf. Gather your ingredients. For two people, you will need: 1 1-1/4 lb. (625 g) seedless watermelon 2 pomegranates 7 oz. (200 g) fresh raspberries Ice cubes Peel your watermelon and cut it into chunks. Remove the seeds from your pomegranate, setting a few seeds aside for garnish. Place the watermelon flesh into a juicer or blender. Add the pomegranate seeds and the raspberries, and blend the mixture until it is smooth. Pour the juice into a tall glass over ice cubes. Float some pomegranate seeds and raspberries on top of the juice for garnish. Wash the watermelon well. Remove dirt or blemishes. Peel a seedless watermelon. Separate the rind from the flesh of the watermelon. Chop it up. Put the chopped pieces of watermelon rind into the blender. Blend until it reaches the desired consistency. Add water if needed. Serve and enjoy! Gather your ingredients. The things you will need are as follows: Half of medium Watermelon 3 Teaspoon sugar A pinch of salt ( if you like.) 1 Glass of 7Up 1 tablespoon lemon Juice Ice cubes Peel the watermelon and slice it into small chunks using a knife. Put the watermelon in juicer. Add sugar, salt and lemon juice. Strain it into a glassif (WH.video)WH.video.add(document.getElementById('mvid-1085d1c53f')); Serve it with 7Up and ice cube. Finished.

Gather your ingredients. Place your watermelon on a cutting board. Place the watermelon chunks into a bowl, into a rubber container or onto a plate. Place the watermelon in a blender. Blend well until the juice is smooth. Gather your ingredients. Cut the rinds off the watermelons. Blend the chunks, mint, and lemon juice until the mixture is smooth. Pour the watermelon mixture through a sieve and into a saucepan. Heat your saucepan over a medium-low setting. Continue simmering the juice. Pour the juice into a container and chill it. Gather your ingredients. Peel your watermelon and cut it into chunks. Place the watermelon flesh into a juicer or blender. Pour the juice into a tall glass over ice cubes. Wash the watermelon well. Peel a seedless watermelon. Separate the rind from the flesh of the watermelon. Put the chopped pieces of watermelon rind into the blender. Serve and enjoy! Gather your ingredients. Peel the watermelon and slice it into small chunks using a knife. Put the watermelon in juicer. Add sugar, salt and lemon juice. Strain it into a glassif (WH.video)WH.video.add(document.getElementById('mvid-1085d1c53f')); Serve it with 7Up and ice cube. Finished.

https://www.wikihow.com/Apply-to-College

How to Apply to College

To apply to college, start by researching potential schools at the end of your junior year or the beginning of your senior year. Once you've narrowed your list down to a few schools, check online for each school's application requirements. Every school will require a basic application and your transcripts, but some may want additional items from you, like a personal essay or specific test scores. Be sure to study for and take the SAT and ACT during your junior year so you'll have your scores ready to submit! It's totally normal to take those tests more than once, especially if you think your original scores can be improved. If you need to write a personal essay, have someone you trust read it and offer constructive criticism before you submit it. It's best to have all of your applications ready by January of your senior year so that you don't miss any deadlines. Once you've been accepted, apply for financial aid by contacting the university or applying directly to FAFSA, the government agency responsible for student loans.

Map out the application process with a timeline. At the end of junior year or over the summer, make a list of all the steps you'll need to take during the application process. Maintaining a bird's-eye-view over these tasks can prevent you from getting overwhelmed help you avoid missed deadlines. For an example timeline, check out https://bigfuture.collegeboard.org/get-in/applying-101/timeline-12-grade. Discuss potential matches with your guidance counselor. Ask your guidance counselor which colleges and universities match up with your academic performance and interests. They can offer an experienced perspective on which schools you should easily get into and which are more of a reach. If you'd like to pursue a particular field, they can also inform you about schools that offer strong degree programs in your chosen discipline. Your guidance counselor is your point person throughout the application process. They help you narrow your list of prospective school, review your application materials, and ensure transcripts and other official documents are sent with your applications. It's best to give yourself plenty of time to put your applications together. Start narrowing your list of colleges junior year (or the third year of secondary school) and complete your applications during the first half of your last year in high school. Reach out to a teacher or mentor if you don't have a guidance counselor. If your school doesn't have a counselor, or if your counselor is overbooked, ask a trusted teacher for help. You could also talk to other mentor figures, such as a coach, club adviser, or a relative who has experience with the application process. Try not to worry if your counselor is unavailable or if your school doesn't have one. There's plenty of great information available online, and a trusted teacher or other mentor can help you navigate the process. If you're an adult returning to school and don't have access to a school counselor, reach out to potential colleges for guidance. Ask about the application process for non-traditional students. Instead of sending high school transcripts, you may be able to take a placement exam or receive course credit for prior work or military experience. Research schools’ admissions standards and requirements. Take advantage of admissions websites and college review sites, where you can learn all about potential schools. Look for colleges and universities that have features that appeal to you, such as degree programs, cost, class size, and location. Many college review sites compile lists of colleges that you can browse. They break down how hard it is to get into a school, what kind of SAT or ACT score you need, tuition cost, what campus life is like, and how many alumni get jobs after graduating. You can find plenty of information on schools' websites, but you could also ask colleges and universities to send you information packets. Check out admissions websites and look for “request information” links. Visit colleges to get a sense of what campus life is like. Researching schools online is one thing, but experiencing campus life firsthand is invaluable. If possible, schedule tours with prospective schools. You may also be able to stay overnight with a first-year student and get a feel for what it's like to live in a dorm. If you have a friend who attends a college you're interested in, ask them to show you around the campus. As you tour potential schools, ask yourself what type of school and surrounding location would be most comfortable. Try to imagine what it would be like to be a student at each school you visit, and ask yourself, “Can I imagine myself being happy and successful here?” If, for instance, you want to experience urban life, look for schools located in bustling cities. Look for colleges off the beaten path if you want a less hectic environment. Some universities are enormous, with 30,000 students or more. If smaller class size is important to you, look for liberal arts colleges, which may have just a few hundred students enrolled. Look for nearby or online universities if you want to stay local. Look into nearby colleges and universities if you have a job you don't want to leave or just want to stay close to home. An online degree program could also be a great option, especially if you're returning to school. In the United States, lower tuition cost is one major perk of in-state public colleges and universities. Talk to your family about the pros and cons of moving away versus staying local. Discuss costs, responsibilities that require you to stay close to home, and other logistics. Narrow your list to 5 to 10 safety, good match, and reach schools. Choose 1 to 2 safety schools, which you and your guidance counselor are sure you'll get into, and 2 to 4 good matches where you think you'll have a strong chance of being admitted. Additionally, select 1 to 2 reaches, or colleges where getting in isn't a sure thing, but it's realistic enough to be worth applying. Try to come up with a list of colleges for each category by autumn of your last year in high school at the latest. Keep in mind each school has an application fee, so don't apply to a college just for the sake of it. If paying application fees is an issue, ask your guidance counselor to help you request fee waivers from potential colleges. Create a to-do list to stay organized. Early in your senior year, write down all of the application requirements for each of your potential schools. Create a master checklist with the requirements and deadlines for each college. In addition, keep all the documents you compile for each application in individual digital folders on your computer. Most likely, requirements will overlap, but there may be minor differences. One school, for instance, may require 3 letters of recommendation while the others specify 2. Colleges usually prefer online applications. However, if you'd rather submit paper applications, or if a school happens to request hard copies of documents, keep them organized in paper folders. Send your high school transcripts to potential schools. Colleges and universities require official transcripts, which usually need to be sent by an administrator at your high school. Policies vary, but guidance counselors often arrange for transcripts to be sent to potential colleges. Check schools' admissions websites for specifics on the submission process. You may need to download a transcript request form from a school's website and give it to your guidance counselor. Alternatively, your guidance counselor or school administrator may only need to mail or upload your transcript. Your transcripts will only show your grades up to the last full term you completed. However, your high school will send a final transcript to your college of choice, so keeping your grades up is still important. Don't slack off the rest of your senior year! If you're returning to school as an adult, ask schools' admissions programs to help guide you through the application process. In lieu of transcripts, you may be able to take a standardized test or ask schools to take your work experience into consideration. Write application essays on a unique experience, trait, or achievement. Writing a college application essay may seem daunting, but try to see it as a fun opportunity to express yourself. Review the requirements for each school; your essay may be open ended, or you may be asked to respond to a specific prompt. You'll probably be limited to 1 page or less, so focus on a specific topic that helps you stand out from the crowd. For instance, you could write about an obstacle you overcame or a trip that changed your view of the world. Just keep in mind the most important thing to be authentic and offer insight into who you are as a person. Keep in mind you may need to write multiple essays in response to each application's prompt. Ask 2 to 3 teachers to write letters of recommendation. Choose references who know you well and can clearly communicate your talents. Teachers are usually the best bet, but a reference could also be another mentor, such as your boss. Some schools also ask that your guidance counselor submit a letter of recommendation. Give your references plenty of notice; at least 2 months is ideal. Be sure to check college admissions websites for specific requirements. If necessary, download and print recommendation forms and give them to your references. It's also a good idea to give your references a list of your credentials and activities, just to make sure they have a big picture view of you outside of the classroom. Send your standardized test scores to prospective colleges. If possible, take the SAT, ACT, or standardized test for your nation more than once. Specific steps to submitting score reports to schools vary by test. In general, you'll just need to enter your potential colleges' ID codes on the test administrator's website. In the United States, many schools no longer require standardized test scores. A few won't even consider SAT or ACT scores at all. However, there are plenty of colleges and universities that still place heavy emphasis on standardized tests, so don't skip the SAT or ACT. Additionally, depending on the school and degree program, you may need to submit subject test scores. For instance, a pre-med program may require SAT subject test scores in science. Develop a portfolio if you’re applying for a creative degree. You'll probably need to submit a portfolio if you're applying to art school or degree programs like fashion design, architecture, or theater. Review potential college's portfolio requirements, and work with your art or design teachers to showcase your best work. Your portfolio needs to be as professional as possible. Be sure to include high-resolution images of your work, as well as concise descriptions to set the context for each project. Look for submission instructions on the website of your potential school or degree program. You'll either submit a hard copy of your portfolio, upload a digital file through the website, or send a CD or thumb drive. Fill out application forms according to each college’s requirements. While some schools have their own application forms and online portals, many participate in common application programs. For each application, enter your name, contact and personal information, activities, and other required details into the appropriate fields. In the U.S., over 800 schools participate in the Common App program. For schools that accept the Common App, you just need to fill out 1 application form, and you and your guidance can upload your essay, transcript, and letters of recommendation directly onto the website at https://www.commonapp.org. Outside of the U.S., many nations have 1 universal application that covers all universities. For instance, in the United Kingdom, you'd submit a UCAS application at https://www.ucas.com. Include your required documents with your application. If you're using the Common App, you can simply upload your required documents through the program's website. For schools that don't take the Common App, you'll most likely need to create an account on their website and upload your documents through their application server. Recall that most schools now prefer online submissions. If you prefer to send hard copies and your potential schools accept paper applications, check their admissions websites for mailing addresses. Pay each school’s application fee. If you're using the Common App (or another universal application service), log into the website, head to the “Review and Submit” section, and search for a potential school. When you submit your application to that school, you'll be prompted to pay an application fee, which is typically between $30 and $90 (U.S.). The payment process is similar if you're applying to schools that don't take the Common App. The Common App only takes credit or bank cards. Schools that don't accept the Common App may accept checks or bank transfers in addition to cards, so double check admissions websites for acceptable payment forms. If application fees are outside of your budget, you can apply for fee waivers through schools' financial aid departments. Ask a parent for help submitting financial information with the waiver applications. Confirm that colleges have received your materials after a month. For both the Common App and schools with independent application portals, you should be able to log into the website and check your application's status. Otherwise, stay on the safe side and call or email the admissions department to ensure they received all of your required documents. Waiting is tough, but try to be patient! It usually takes about 2 or 3 months for a college to notify applicants whether or not they were accepted. Start the financial aid application process after applying to schools. If you live in the U.S., file your Free Application for Federal Student Aid (FAFSA) as soon as possible after January 1 of your senior year. Your FAFSA determines how much federal financial aid you qualify for; schools that accept you will also let you know if they can offer scholarships, grants, or loans. Once you know how you'll finance your education, you can send a letter of acceptance to your chosen school and take the first steps toward your degree!

Map out the application process with a timeline. Discuss potential matches with your guidance counselor. Reach out to a teacher or mentor if you don't have a guidance counselor. Research schools’ admissions standards and requirements. Visit colleges to get a sense of what campus life is like. Look for nearby or online universities if you want to stay local. Narrow your list to 5 to 10 safety, good match, and reach schools. Create a to-do list to stay organized. Send your high school transcripts to potential schools. Write application essays on a unique experience, trait, or achievement. Ask 2 to 3 teachers to write letters of recommendation. Send your standardized test scores to prospective colleges. Develop a portfolio if you’re applying for a creative degree. Fill out application forms according to each college’s requirements. Include your required documents with your application. Pay each school’s application fee. Confirm that colleges have received your materials after a month. Start the financial aid application process after applying to schools.

https://www.wikihow.com/Clean-Grout-with-Toilet-Cleaner

How to Clean Grout with Toilet Cleaner

Using toilet cleaner is an effective way to get rid of unsightly grime or water stains on the grout in your bathroom. Before you use a cleaner, put a small amount of it on the back of the toilet and let it sit for 5 minutes to ensure it doesn't damage the grout. If the grout looks fine afterward, pour the cleaner directly on the grout in small, dispersed sections. Then, use a grout cleaning brush to gently scrub the area clean. When you've removed all the dirt and grime, rinse and dry the grout thoroughly, since leaving toilet cleaner on the grout can lead to stains and residue build-up.

Look for a toilet cleaner that contains sodium hydroxide. Many toilet cleaners contain sodium hydroxide and sodium hypochlorite. These two ingredients help to remove stains and grime on porcelain or tile surfaces as well as grout. Though they can be toxic in large amounts, they do work to effectively clean grout. You may look for common brands of toilet cleaner at your local hardware store or in the cleaning aisle at your grocery store. Try an eco-friendly toilet cleaner. To avoid exposing yourself or others to harmful chemicals, you may opt for a toilet cleaner that is eco-friendly. There are several toilet cleaners on the market that do not contain harmful chemicals. However, they may not be as effective for cleaning grout, or your toilet bowl, if they do not contain chemicals like sodium hydroxide or sodium hypochlorite. Many eco-friendly toilet cleaners are made with plant and mineral-based products. They may also be scented with lemon, mint, or pine, a bonus for making your grout smell less wet or dirty. Use toilet cleaner that contains bleach with caution. Though you may opt for toilet cleaner that contains bleach to better clean the grout, using bleach can be toxic to your health and possibly damage the tiling around the grout. Bleach can also strip the water-repellant materials that are in the grout, leading to damaged grout in the future, especially in showers or bathrooms. If you do go for a toilet cleaner that contains bleach, make sure you wear rubber gloves, eye protection like safety goggles, and a respirator mask so you are not at risk of inhaling the bleach. You should also wear clothing that you would not mind throwing out, as bleach can damage your clothing. Spot test the cleaner on the grout. Before you dive right into cleaning the grout with the toilet cleaner, you should spot test it first on a portion of the grout. Choose a spot that can be covered up or hidden if it gets damaged. Use a small amount of the toilet cleaner on the grout and leave it on for five minutes. If the grout does not appear damaged, you can proceed to use the toilet cleaner on the rest of the grout. Pour the cleaner on the grout and let it sit. Do this by pouring the cleaner on the area with grout that is furthest from the door. This way, you can clean the grout in small sections, moving towards the door and cleaning each section as you go. If you are cleaning grout along a bathtub or a faucet, you do not have to worry about doing this. Pour a small amount of the cleaner on the grout. Do not pour too much cleaner on the grout or lay it on too thickly. You want an even amount dispersed on the grout so the cleaner can soak in and remove any dirt or grime. Allow the cleaner to stay on the dirty grout and soak in for five minutes. Do not touch or disturb the cleaner when it is sitting on the grout. Scrub the grout with a toothbrush. Once you have let the cleaner sit on the grout, take a toothbrush or a grout cleaning brush, and gently run it over the grout. You should not have to scrub the cleaner off the grout very hard to remove any grime or dirt. Often, the grime will come off easy by running the brush over the grout. Scrub all of the grout that is covered with the cleaner. You should notice the grout appears clean and grime-free once you scrub it with the brush. Rinse and dry the grout well. It is very important that you rinse off the toilet cleaner as soon as you are done scrubbing the grout with the brush. Do not let the cleaner sit on the tile or the grout once you are done scrubbing it, as this can lead to a build-up of residue. This may also lead to a stain on the tile or the grout. Use a wet mop or a wet cloth to rinse off the cleaner. You should then dry the grout and the tiles well once the cleaner has been rinsed. Use a towel or soft cloth to do this. Do not use cloth that will scratch the surface of the tile or the grout. Squeegee the grout after you shower. Try to get in the habit of using a squeegee to remove water from the surface of the tiles and the grout in your bathroom after you shower. Drying the shower doors and the tiles in the shower helps to prevent a buildup of grime or mineral deposits in your grout. You can attach a squeegee to the inside of your shower with a suction cup so it is right there at the end of your shower. Encourage others in your household to squeegee off the shower once they are done to keep the grout dry and clean. Use a sealing product on the grout. You can also maintain the grout so it looks its best by using a sealing product on it. Seal the grout once or twice a year so it remains water repellent. This will ensure the grout stays clean and grime-free. You can find sealing products for grout at your local hardware store or online. Replace the grout if it becomes damaged. If you notice the grout in your bathroom or kitchen is shrivelled, full of mildew, or damaged in any way, try to get it replaced as soon as possible. Replacing the grout will ensure it does not get worse or you do not experience other home repair issues as a result of damaged grout. You may try cleaning the grout before you consider replacing it. If it does not respond well to cleaning, it may be time to switch it out for new grout.

Look for a toilet cleaner that contains sodium hydroxide. Try an eco-friendly toilet cleaner. Use toilet cleaner that contains bleach with caution. Spot test the cleaner on the grout. Pour the cleaner on the grout and let it sit. Scrub the grout with a toothbrush. Rinse and dry the grout well. Squeegee the grout after you shower. Use a sealing product on the grout. Replace the grout if it becomes damaged.

https://www.wikihow.com/Dress-With-Style

How to Dress With Style

To dress with style, start by choosing classic staple pieces, like a pair of dark-wash jeans or a versatile trench coat, that you can use with lots of looks. You should also look for items that flatter your figure to give you confidence. For example, opt for a wrap dress or bootcut jeans if you have a larger middle, or high-waisted pants and delicate tops if you have a more athletic build. Additionally, buy items based on what colors look good on you, since yellows and reds look great on warm skin tones, while blues and greens look better on cool undertones.

Show your attitude and personality. Dressing with style is about more than the clothing; it is about how you carry yourself. If you carry yourself with confidence, your fashion statement will be heard loud and clear. If you're uncomfortable in what you're wearing, it will show. After all, confidence is the best accessory one can wear. Create your trademark. You can create a memorable trademark by accentuating the parts of your body or personality traits that you love about yourself. We all want to be remembered by something great, and creating your personal trademark is a great way to define yourself. For example, if you're quirky and outgoing, make bright and unique jewelry your trademark. If you love your naturally beautiful dark hair and tan skin, accentuate these features by making your trademark a deep red lip color. Embrace and define your personal style. Your choice of clothing is a reflection of who you are, including what you're interested in, your inspirations, and your aspirations. The more connected you are to your personal style, the more confident you'll appear. Incorporating your favorite music, hobbies, and goals will help you truly connect with your style. Say you're interested in metal bands. Incorporate your favorite band t-shirts into your wardrobe. Dress up your metal tee with your favorite jeans and heels for a stylish look that's completely you. If you aspire to be a corporate CEO, dress the part! Incorporate power suits or sleek dresses into your weekly wardrobe. Dressing to your goals will bring out your inner confidence. Observe others to find inspiration. Fashion is all around you, so look at how other people dress. Study what clothing they're wearing, what colors they're mixing, what shoes they pair with which accessories. When you see an outfit that you like, figure out why you like it. For instance, is it the overall vibe of the look (e.g., preppy, hippy bohemian, rockstar inspired), is it the general color scheme of the outfit, or is it a specific piece (e.g., a great cut jacket, the perfect pair of jeans)? Imitate outfits that you love. After all, imitation is the greatest form of flattery! Yes, developing a unique sense of style is important, but if you're a complete beginner, imitating others can be a extremely helpful. Find an outfit you love and copy it, then keep the parts of the outfit that work for you, and change the aspects of the outfit that don't. If you've found an outfit you love, but the colors don't look good on you, find similar pieces in a more flattering color scheme. Use Pinterest as a style tool. Create a Pinterest board of your ideal style, and pin your favorite looks to it. Study your board, and look for patterns of what you see as stylish, then figure out how to add that style to your look. If you find yourself pinning a lot of preppy, nautical themed looks, it's evident that you're drawn to that style. Find your favorite pieces on your Pinterest board, and add them to your wardrobe. Study your Pinterest board for ideas how to style your new wardrobe. Follow fashion blogs and magazines to get new style ideas. Read a variety of magazines, from Vogue to Cosmopolitan, to get a variety of looks and outfit concepts. Getting inspiration from high fashion and street fashion will help you discover what style means to you. Spend some time scrolling through Instagram to find a few fashion bloggers you connect with. Once you've found a few bloggers you admire, study how they build outfits and where they shop to help you recreate their looks. Pay attention to trends. Your style doesn't always have to follow trends, but paying attention to them will keep you knowledgeable about new fashion, and could give you some new ideas to revamp your wardrobe. Some trends you'll love, and others you'll hate. Don't feel pressured to follow any trends you don't like, but allow yourself to be inspired by the trends that you admire. Use trends as a tool to refresh your existing wardrobe. Get out of your comfort zone to discover your true style. Discovering your personal style takes some experimenting; finding what you like, and what you don't like. Research by seeking out new styles, colors, and silhouettes that are outside your comfort zone. Once you've experimented, you'll be able to create your personal style based on what you've learned about your fashion likes and dislikes. Discover which colors work best with your complexion. We all have surface tones and undertones. Surface tones are how we typically describe our own complexions, and can be ivory, light, medium, tan, dark, etc. Your skin's undertone is the color beneath the surface. The three different undertones are: cool (pink, red or bluish undertones), warm (yellow, peachy, golden undertones), neutral (a mix of warm and cool undertones). There are a few different ways to determine your skin's undertone. Check your veins to discover your undertone. Look at the veins on the inside of your wrist. If they're more blue, you likely have cool undertones. If they look greenish, you have warm undertones. Use the jewelry trick to learn your undertone. Do you look more radiant in silver or gold? If you typically look better in silver, you have a cool undertone, whereas gold usually looks best on a warm undertone. Determine how your skin reacts to the sun. Do you get a golden brown tan, or turn pinkish and burn in the sun? If you fit into the former, you're warm-toned, while cool undertones tend to burn (fair skin will simply burn, while medium-skinned undertones will burn, then tan.) Find which colors look best on you. If you have a warm undertone, you should lean toward yellows, oranges, browns, yellow-greens, ivories , and warm reds. If you have cool undertones, you should wear blues, greens, pinks, purples, blue-greens, magentas, and other blue-based reds. Choose a silhouette that best complements your figure. It is important to dress for your body type! Every body is different, and what looks great on one person may not look as good on another. Flattering your shape is a crucial part of looking and feeling confident with your personal style. Triangle/pear body shape: You have a slim upper body and waist, with curvy hips and legs. Wear bright colors, layers, and accessories on top to attract attention. Wear slimming, lengthening bottoms, such as skinny jeans or bootcut pants in darker colors. This will balance out your body beautifully. Circle body shape: You have slim legs and shoulders, and a soft, round middle area. Covering your body in layers can make you look bigger. Instead, create a slimming effect by adding angles and lines across your figure with wrap dresses or asymmetrical hemlines. You should also try dresses with rushing in the middle to hide your tummy and create an hourglass effect. Try a straight leg or bootcut pant, and wear a heel to show off your legs. Hourglass body shape: You have curvy breasts and hips, and a slim waist. Embrace your silhouette with snug fitting tops and bottoms. Wear tiny belts to accentuate your waist, and avoid excessive layering and draping. Skinny leg pants and pencil skirts are especially flattering, and show off your figure. Athletic body shape: You have a naturally sporty shape, and appear more fit than curvy. Your body type can appear boxy with the wrong clothing, so try wearing delicate, feminine fabrics and shapes to compliment your figure. Tops with thin straps, light fabrics such as silk and lace, and high waisted or wide legged pants are flattering on you. Inverted triangle shape: You have broad shoulders, a trim waist and hips, and nice legs. Amplify your lower body to match the fullness of your shoulders; wide-leg pants or long skirts can create balance. Simple and soft tops feminize your strong upper body. Men's fashion caters to a variety of body types as well. Like women's fashion, it is all about the balance. For example, If you have a smaller upper body, layer with sweaters or blazers. Buy in multiples. Once you find colors and shapes that work well for you, multiply! There's no need to question what works for you, just go with it. For example, if a particular dress looks amazing on you, buy it in a few colors. If you found your perfect pair of jeans, buy a few pairs. Dress your age. Though there are no set guidelines, certain styles are more appropriate for certain ages. Your 20s are all about self-discovery. Whether you're a party animal, a business entrepreneur, or a free spirit, it's important to experiment with fashion to discover what style fits you best. Your 20s are the time to have fun with short dresses and bold jewelry, or wild bow-ties and ripped jeans. In your 30s, your life is finally starting to fall into place. You're becoming comfortable being yourself, and aren't as worried about following the hottest new trends. Your 30s are the years of adding your touch of flair to wardrobe staples and classic pieces. You should have a few nice suits or dresses in your closet, and be able to dress them up with unique cuff links or one-of-a-kind pumps. When you've reached your 40s, it's time to start pampering yourself. Spoil your closet with a beautiful gown or a nice cashmere sweater. As you mature, allow your closet to do the same. You've made it to your 50s, meaning you've reached the age of fun and eccentric fashion! You've lived, you've learned, and now it's time to let your confidence shine through. Keep it comfortable with practical pieces, while accessorizing with bright sunglasses and costume jewelry. You've experimented with fashion, and in your 60s you know what you love. It's time to let your statement pieces shine: a fur coat, a phenomenal handbag, and all of your diamonds. Stock up on the basics. Every woman needs a nice, black winter coat, a plain white tee, a nice pair of black pants, and a great pair of jeans in a dark wash. Get a comfy pair of sneakers and and a good pair of heels in a neutral color. A little black dress is also a must, as is a trenchcoat and a versatile pair of sunglasses. Mix and match these items with other garments you own to create the perfect look for any occasion. You can dress the pieces up or down depending on what you pair them with. For instance, pair the jeans, white tee, and sneakers for running errands on the weekend. Wear the black pants and heels with a nice blouse and the trenchcoat to work. Choose your classic shoe. Whether you're into signature black pumps, a fun pair of flats, or a classic and simple sneaker, your go-to shoe should be well-designed, versatile, and timeless. Your classic shoe should go with almost everything, and always give you that sense of comfort and confidence. Have a go-to lip color. The little things are what make us unique. You don't need to wear your favorite lip color everyday, but a signature color can be the perfect accent to your personal style. Find a lip color that works for you and keep it constant in your makeup rotation. Get yourself a signature handbag. Invest in a handbag that will go with everything, but will never go out of style. Of course it's great to have multiple bags for different occasions, but a signature bag is your go-to. For men, find yourself a signature watch or wallet. Go for the perfect accent. Accessories and accents make the outfit, no matter how big or small. Whether it's a small charm bracelet you never take off, or a show-stopping pair of diamond earrings for special occasions, the right accessories will go a long way. Don't over accessorize. Allow your accent pieces to shine, there's no need to load up on a lot of accessories. The right necklace will transform a simple dress into a stylish look. The perfect hat will bring your T-shirt and jeans to life. Pick a personal scent. Even if you're not a perfume girl, find a lotion or body wash that you absolutely love. If you're not big on cologne, choose a go-to deodorant or aftershave. This may seem insignificant, but a nice scent isn't a bad way to be remembered. Keep in mind that black is always in style. Trends come and go, but the classic little black dress will never fade. When in doubt about colors, patterns, and/or prints, go with a gorgeous solid black. It looks good on everyone, but you can always make it your own.

Show your attitude and personality. Create your trademark. Embrace and define your personal style. Observe others to find inspiration. Imitate outfits that you love. Use Pinterest as a style tool. Follow fashion blogs and magazines to get new style ideas. Pay attention to trends. Get out of your comfort zone to discover your true style. Discover which colors work best with your complexion. Find which colors look best on you. Choose a silhouette that best complements your figure. Buy in multiples. Dress your age. Stock up on the basics. Choose your classic shoe. Have a go-to lip color. Get yourself a signature handbag. Go for the perfect accent. Pick a personal scent. Keep in mind that black is always in style.