msu-ceco/aec_v1 · Datasets at Hugging Face

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Install subsurface drainage and irrigation systems before final grading and smoothing.
7.
Redistribute the topsoil.
Topsoil should be free of troublesome weeds, including johnsongrass, thistle, etc., and should contain no stones, roots, trash or extraneous materials larger than 1 1/2 inches in diameter.
If suitable topsoil is not available on site, the existing soil may be modified.
Soil aeration and water drainage can be improved when proper amounts of coarse sand or loamy topsoil are incorporated into clay soils.
Mix 4 to 6 inches of sand or topsoil with the upper 2 to 4 inches of underlying soil.
If topsoil lacks organic matter, additives such as mature compost, well-rotted sawdust or decomposed manure may be mixed with soil.
Determine pH, phosphorus and potassium levels in the soil by sampling after mixing sand, topsoil or organic materials.
8.
Uniformly apply nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium and lime according to soil test recommendations.
A general guideline for fertilizing a planting bed in lieu of a soil test is to apply 25 pounds of 6-12-12 fertilizer or equivalent per 1,000 square feet.
9.
Till the soil to a depth of 6 or more inches, thoroughly mixing lime and fertilizer with soil.
10.
Fine grade to smooth the soil surface before planting.
Hand raking is preferred for small areas.
A heavy steel drag mat, plank drag or tiller rake is effective on larger areas.
11.
If the soil is dry, water the planting bed to a depth of 5 or 6 inches several days before planting.
12.
Allow at least one week for settling of the soil before planting.
The planting bed should be firm enough to walk in, with the upper 1/2 inch of soil loosened.
If footprints are deeper than 1 inch, rolling or further watering is recommended.
Seed the fescues in late summer just before most favorable climatic conditions.
Cool temperatures and moist soils during late summer, fall and early spring promote plant growth.
Fescues may also be seeded in early spring; however, spring plantings often result in greater susceptibility to heat and drought stresses.
Young fescue plants with limited root systems often do not survive the summer heat and dry conditions.
The recommended planting rate for establishing a tall fescue lawn from seed is from 5 to 8 pounds per 1,000 sq.
ft.
Plant chewings, hard or red fescues at a rate of 3 to 5 pounds of seed per 1,000 sq.
ft.
For best results, purchase high quality seed.
Tall fescue seed germination should be at least 85 percent; seed purity, 95 percent.
The minimum acceptable seed germination and purity of the fine fescues is 80 percent and 95 percent, respectively.
For more information regarding seed and the seed label, please refer to Extension PB1350,
Straw is an effective mulch when uniformly
broadcast over a seedbed after planting.
Eighty to 100 pounds of clean mulching straw per 1,000 square feet usually protects the newly seeded lawn from seed washing and erosion.
Straw also conserves moisture and buffers emerging fescue seedlings from temperature extremes.
Spread the straw as evenly as possible to prevent layering, which can limit the amount of light reaching the young fescue plants.
When high-quality fescue sod is properly transplanted, it stabilizes soils and provides "instant" beautification.
Although sodding in September, October and March is preferred, fescue sod may be transplanted almost any time of the year.
Harvesting, installing and caring for fescue sod in mid-summer is especially challenging due, in part, to the potential damage from high temperatures, drought and disease activity.
Several weeks or months may be required before the newly-installed fescues root into the soil below and are capable of withstanding foot traffic.
Fescue sod produced and marketed in Tennessee is often harvested in 16-inch by 24-inch pieces with 5/8 inch of soil.
Biodegradable netting, which improves the tensile strength and speeds harvest of the fescue sod, may be located near the soil surface.
One pallet containing about 50 square yards of fescue sod may weigh more than 2,000 pounds.
Transplant the first pieces of sod in a straight line along a driveway or sidewalk.
Work should progress toward the center of the lawn.
Place the pieces of sod in a pattern similar to bricks in a wall.
This will minimize the formation of long, straight lines and reduce the risk of dehydration of plants located near the edges.
Although they should fit together tightly, sod pieces should not be stretched or overlapped.
Figure 3.
Install sod in a pattern similar to bricks in a wall.
Begin irrigating the newly planted lawn area immediately after seeding or sodding.
Water frequently to maintain adequate moisture in the upper 1 to 2 inches of soil.
Apply water slowly to prevent seed movement and runoff.
After seedlings are well developed or the sod is well rooted, discontinue the practice of light, daily irrigations.
Apply more water less often to encourage deep rooting.
Mow the lawn when the tallest plants reach a height about 1 1/3 times the intended cutting height.
For example, if the cutting height is 2 inches, mow the lawn when the tallest plants reach a height of 2 2/3 inches.
Short grass clippings may be returned to the soil surface to provide nutrients and contribute organic matter to the soil.
Keep mower blades sharp.
Fescue seedlings may be easily torn or lifted from the soil by a dull mower blade.
Mowing, fertilization and irrigation are very important considerations when developing an effective lawn care plan.
For example, fescues perform best when they are mowed often at an appropriate cutting height.
Fertilizer applications can be timed to support active plant growth during favorable weather conditions.
The lawn can be watered to maintain active growth and to preserve the root system of fescues during extended periods of drought.
For best results, keep the mower blade sharp and mow when the lawn is dry.
Set the cutting height of the mower within the optimum range for the fescue being maintained.
The optimum cutting height range for tall fescue varieties is usually from 2 to 3 inches; the fine fescues, from 1 1/2 to 2 1/2 inches.
To determine the mechanically set cutting height , place the mower on a firm, level surface and measure the distance from the surface to the cutting edge of the blade.
The effective cutting height is the actual height of aerial shoots immediately after mowing.
The effective cutting height may be slightly higher than the bench setting when the soil is firm and the mower wheels ride on lawngrass shoots above the soil
surface.
If the soil is soft or moist, the effective cutting height may be equal to or lower than the bench setting.
Raising the height of cut within the optimum cutting height range before extended periods of drought or high and low temperature stresses can be very beneficial.
Increasing the cutting height may promote deep rooting.
The additional vegetation may also insulate the soil against high and low temperature extremes.
Remove no more than one-third of the leaf tissue when mowing.
Scalping lawngrass plants back to their original height results in a weak and weedy lawn.
If the lawn grows too tall between mowings, gradually lower the cutting height over a period of two or three mowings.
Mowing patterns result from back-and-forth travel while mowing the lawn.
Try to alternate the mowing direction each time the lawn is mowed to distribute wear and soil compaction.
This may also encourage the fescues to grow upright.
Return small grass clippings to the lawn when mowing.
Small pieces of leaf tissue decompose naturally, recycling essential nutrients.
New mulching mowers and mower accessories are available to help evenly spread small clippings over the lawn.
Conventional sideor rear-discharge mowers may also be used to cycle clippings if the lawn is dry and no more than one-third of the aerial portion of the plants is removed when mowing.
For more information regarding clipping cycling, please refer to Extension PB1455, Lawn Care to Reduce Landscape Waste.
Figure 4.
New mulching mowers and mower accessories are available from some manufacturers to help evenly spread small clippings over the lawn.
Air and water supply the fescues with carbon, hydrogen and oxygen.
The soil provides 13
essential mineral nutrients.
In Tennessee, soils usually contain adequate amounts of secondary nutrients and micronutrients.
They seldom contain enough nitrogen to meet the needs of fescues.
Sometimes, additional phosphorus and potassium may also be required.
A fertilization program seldom delivers the desired results if the soil pH is not within the optimum range for plant growth.

Install subsurface drainage and irrigation systems before final grading and smoothing.

7.

Redistribute the topsoil.

Topsoil should be free of troublesome weeds, including johnsongrass, thistle, etc., and should contain no stones, roots, trash or extraneous materials larger than 1 1/2 inches in diameter.

If suitable topsoil is not available on site, the existing soil may be modified.

Soil aeration and water drainage can be improved when proper amounts of coarse sand or loamy topsoil are incorporated into clay soils.

Mix 4 to 6 inches of sand or topsoil with the upper 2 to 4 inches of underlying soil.

If topsoil lacks organic matter, additives such as mature compost, well-rotted sawdust or decomposed manure may be mixed with soil.

Determine pH, phosphorus and potassium levels in the soil by sampling after mixing sand, topsoil or organic materials.

8.

Uniformly apply nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium and lime according to soil test recommendations.

A general guideline for fertilizing a planting bed in lieu of a soil test is to apply 25 pounds of 6-12-12 fertilizer or equivalent per 1,000 square feet.

9.

Till the soil to a depth of 6 or more inches, thoroughly mixing lime and fertilizer with soil.

10.

Fine grade to smooth the soil surface before planting.

Hand raking is preferred for small areas.

A heavy steel drag mat, plank drag or tiller rake is effective on larger areas.

11.

If the soil is dry, water the planting bed to a depth of 5 or 6 inches several days before planting.

12.

Allow at least one week for settling of the soil before planting.

The planting bed should be firm enough to walk in, with the upper 1/2 inch of soil loosened.

If footprints are deeper than 1 inch, rolling or further watering is recommended.

Seed the fescues in late summer just before most favorable climatic conditions.

Cool temperatures and moist soils during late summer, fall and early spring promote plant growth.

Fescues may also be seeded in early spring; however, spring plantings often result in greater susceptibility to heat and drought stresses.

Young fescue plants with limited root systems often do not survive the summer heat and dry conditions.

The recommended planting rate for establishing a tall fescue lawn from seed is from 5 to 8 pounds per 1,000 sq.

ft.

Plant chewings, hard or red fescues at a rate of 3 to 5 pounds of seed per 1,000 sq.

ft.

For best results, purchase high quality seed.

Tall fescue seed germination should be at least 85 percent; seed purity, 95 percent.

The minimum acceptable seed germination and purity of the fine fescues is 80 percent and 95 percent, respectively.

For more information regarding seed and the seed label, please refer to Extension PB1350,

Straw is an effective mulch when uniformly

broadcast over a seedbed after planting.

Eighty to 100 pounds of clean mulching straw per 1,000 square feet usually protects the newly seeded lawn from seed washing and erosion.

Straw also conserves moisture and buffers emerging fescue seedlings from temperature extremes.

Spread the straw as evenly as possible to prevent layering, which can limit the amount of light reaching the young fescue plants.

When high-quality fescue sod is properly transplanted, it stabilizes soils and provides "instant" beautification.

Although sodding in September, October and March is preferred, fescue sod may be transplanted almost any time of the year.

Harvesting, installing and caring for fescue sod in mid-summer is especially challenging due, in part, to the potential damage from high temperatures, drought and disease activity.

Several weeks or months may be required before the newly-installed fescues root into the soil below and are capable of withstanding foot traffic.

Fescue sod produced and marketed in Tennessee is often harvested in 16-inch by 24-inch pieces with 5/8 inch of soil.

Biodegradable netting, which improves the tensile strength and speeds harvest of the fescue sod, may be located near the soil surface.

One pallet containing about 50 square yards of fescue sod may weigh more than 2,000 pounds.

Transplant the first pieces of sod in a straight line along a driveway or sidewalk.

Work should progress toward the center of the lawn.

Place the pieces of sod in a pattern similar to bricks in a wall.

This will minimize the formation of long, straight lines and reduce the risk of dehydration of plants located near the edges.

Although they should fit together tightly, sod pieces should not be stretched or overlapped.

Figure 3.

Install sod in a pattern similar to bricks in a wall.

Begin irrigating the newly planted lawn area immediately after seeding or sodding.

Water frequently to maintain adequate moisture in the upper 1 to 2 inches of soil.

Apply water slowly to prevent seed movement and runoff.

After seedlings are well developed or the sod is well rooted, discontinue the practice of light, daily irrigations.

Apply more water less often to encourage deep rooting.

Mow the lawn when the tallest plants reach a height about 1 1/3 times the intended cutting height.

For example, if the cutting height is 2 inches, mow the lawn when the tallest plants reach a height of 2 2/3 inches.

Short grass clippings may be returned to the soil surface to provide nutrients and contribute organic matter to the soil.

Keep mower blades sharp.

Fescue seedlings may be easily torn or lifted from the soil by a dull mower blade.

Mowing, fertilization and irrigation are very important considerations when developing an effective lawn care plan.

For example, fescues perform best when they are mowed often at an appropriate cutting height.

Fertilizer applications can be timed to support active plant growth during favorable weather conditions.

The lawn can be watered to maintain active growth and to preserve the root system of fescues during extended periods of drought.

For best results, keep the mower blade sharp and mow when the lawn is dry.

Set the cutting height of the mower within the optimum range for the fescue being maintained.

The optimum cutting height range for tall fescue varieties is usually from 2 to 3 inches; the fine fescues, from 1 1/2 to 2 1/2 inches.

To determine the mechanically set cutting height , place the mower on a firm, level surface and measure the distance from the surface to the cutting edge of the blade.

The effective cutting height is the actual height of aerial shoots immediately after mowing.

The effective cutting height may be slightly higher than the bench setting when the soil is firm and the mower wheels ride on lawngrass shoots above the soil

surface.

If the soil is soft or moist, the effective cutting height may be equal to or lower than the bench setting.

Raising the height of cut within the optimum cutting height range before extended periods of drought or high and low temperature stresses can be very beneficial.

Increasing the cutting height may promote deep rooting.

The additional vegetation may also insulate the soil against high and low temperature extremes.

Remove no more than one-third of the leaf tissue when mowing.

Scalping lawngrass plants back to their original height results in a weak and weedy lawn.

If the lawn grows too tall between mowings, gradually lower the cutting height over a period of two or three mowings.

Mowing patterns result from back-and-forth travel while mowing the lawn.

Try to alternate the mowing direction each time the lawn is mowed to distribute wear and soil compaction.

This may also encourage the fescues to grow upright.

Return small grass clippings to the lawn when mowing.

Small pieces of leaf tissue decompose naturally, recycling essential nutrients.

New mulching mowers and mower accessories are available to help evenly spread small clippings over the lawn.

Conventional sideor rear-discharge mowers may also be used to cycle clippings if the lawn is dry and no more than one-third of the aerial portion of the plants is removed when mowing.

For more information regarding clipping cycling, please refer to Extension PB1455, Lawn Care to Reduce Landscape Waste.

Figure 4.

New mulching mowers and mower accessories are available from some manufacturers to help evenly spread small clippings over the lawn.

Air and water supply the fescues with carbon, hydrogen and oxygen.

The soil provides 13

essential mineral nutrients.

In Tennessee, soils usually contain adequate amounts of secondary nutrients and micronutrients.

They seldom contain enough nitrogen to meet the needs of fescues.

Sometimes, additional phosphorus and potassium may also be required.

A fertilization program seldom delivers the desired results if the soil pH is not within the optimum range for plant growth.