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https://www.wikihow.com/Grow-Houseplants	How to Grow Houseplants	To grow a houseplant, choose a durable plant, like an amaryllis, spider plant, peace lily, button fern, or cactus, which will be easy to take care of. When you buy your plant from a store, check that its leaves look fresh without spots or blemishes to make sure it's healthy. Once you've brought the plant home, place it around 4 to 5 feet away from a window, so it gets the right amount of sunlight. You should also research online whether your plant needs low, moderate, or high moisture and water it accordingly. As a general rule, if you stick your finger half an inch into the soil and it's dry, water the plant.	Go to a reputable plant supplier. A nursery or a dedicated garden store will give you quality plants, and you can pick up knowledge from the experts. You can buy plants at a home improvement stores or grocery stores, but usually they don't directly source their plant products. In other words, they can't vouch for the quality of their plants. Often, they don't offer refunds for plants, so it's a risk. When evaluating a nursery, look for a relatively clean environment. Also, if all the plants are priced lower than average, that could mean they care more about cost than about providing good plants. You can also buy plants online or via mail order. Buy a durable plant that doesn't die easily. If you're new to growing plants, start with something that's easy to grow. If you need a desert cactus for a starter plant, that's fine. Just make sure you have an easy plant that you know you can take care of. Some easy-to-care-for houseplants include coleus, sweet flag (Acorus calamus), Aspidistras (cast-iron plants), bromeliad plants, peace lilies, amaryllis, African geraniums, bamboo, Philodendron, spider plants, succulents, cactus, and button ferns. Just because you see a particular species everywhere doesn't mean it's an easy plant to grow. They may be everywhere because they are easy to reproduce in a greenhouse, but that doesn't mean they are an easy houseplant. Many plants don't belong in the house. Plants like tulips and hydrangeas need to be planted outside after they bloom, while other plants die after they bloom, such as paperwhite narcissus or Persian violets. Mini roses and Easter lilies just don't thrive well indoors. Decide between a flowering and foliage houseplant. You can choose from two main categories that apply to all houseplants. These categories are divided according to visual differences. Flowering Plants: The main attraction of these plants is the flowers. In nature, almost all plants fruit and flower. However, due to the lack of light and root space in most homes, many plants don't reach maturity and won't flower as a houseplant. Foliage Plants: These plants are grown for their attractive leaves. They can sometimes produce blooms, but they are not really attractive or worth the effort. Check the leaves and blooms for health. A good plant should have an attractive shape and fresh-looking leaves without spots or blemishes. Check that the stems have leaves growing from top to bottom with no major gaps. Also, with flowering plants, look for ones with a lot of tight buds and few full blooms; the blooms should be bright and rich in color. New growth is a good sign, though some plants grow slowly, meaning new growth may not be noticeable. Buy a plant that is the size you want, instead of trying to grow a larger version from a young plant. Look for health in the root ball. Give the plant a slight tug to make sure the stems are connected to the roots, and the plant is secure in its pot. If the soil is pulling from the pot edge or it is soggy or dried out, choose another plant. Crowded roots are not a major issue. Watch for deceptive marketing. Sometimes, suppliers will use deceptive tricks to make a plant more attractive. For instance, they may glue a bloom on to a cactus that isn't from that plant. They may even spray plants to make them a prettier color. Not only are these tricks deceptive, but they can also harm the plants. Look the plant over carefully before buying it. However, plants that are grafted, braided, or in novelty containers are fine. Transport the plant quickly to its new home. Plant dealers will help wrap the plant to help prevent damage. If the plant dealer won't wrap it, figure out a way to protect it from the elements, such as wind, cold, heat, and car fumes. You want to avoid shocking the plant. If the plant is huge and you can't transport it, have it delivered. Create a barrier between the plant and the environment. When purchasing multiple plants have a partitioned container like a wine box ready. Buckets and storage containers will also work. Cover the plant with plastic bags or old newspaper, and use skewers inserted in the dirt to prop up the bag. If the bag touches the leaves and flowers, it can damage them. Cover the container or seal the bag before leaving the area, so you carry a bit of the indoor air with you. Also, don't leave the plant in a hot or cold car/trunk, which could damage the plant. Pick a good spot in your house. Choose a spot that isn't full sun (unless the plant is a succulent, cactus, or a plant with flowers). Also, don't pick a spot that gets extreme temperatures. A sunny room is a good choice, but set the plant out from the window 4 to 5 feet (1.2 to 1.5 m) so that it gets indirect light. Leave the plant in this spot to help it adjust. Resist the temptation to move the plant around or to transplant it into a new pot. Let the soil dry out almost completely before giving it its first watering. After being moved around among several different environments, the plant is in a state of semi-shock and needs time to adjust to yet another environment. Isolate new plants from other plants in the house to prevent the spread of diseases and pests. Avoid placing a warmth-loving species in the greenhouse or warm room right away, even if it loves the situation. Many florists and garden centers keep plants in lower temperatures, and if you make the plant too warm at first, it can lead to shock. Wait for the plant to perk up. Keep observing the plant and give it help if needed. Many plants will either wilt or drop flowers and leaves, which is normal when moving a plant. However, if the plant withers excessively or turns brown, you may have something more going on. Don't keep plying it with water or excess nutrients, which might actually make the plant worse. Some plants, such as the Benjamin ficus, drop all their leaves then later sprout new growth vigorously after getting used to the environment. Some plants will lose all but their younger leaves, and the leftovers grow more resilient in the new environment. Sometimes, you may have bought a plant that is just ready to go dormant or even die. Move the plant to its permanent location. Watch the plant to see how it adjusts. Once it is showing new growth and isn't wilted anymore, you can move it to its permanent location. You can also transplant the plant to a new pot as needed. If your plant location fits this description already, you don't have to move it. Avoid fertilizing the plant. The plant has probably been fertilized at some point. The plant already has enough nutrients, and adding more could do more harm than good. After about a year, the plant may need fertilizer. Check on what that species needs specifically, as some do not need fertilizer at all. Provide the correct light. With too little light, a plant will produce poorly sized leaves and leggy stems. Variegated and colorful leaves of many plants will disappear and turn green. Flowering plants do not flower in poor light. At the other side of the spectrum, too much light can result in a tightly bunched plant with scorch marks and shriveled leaves. Knowing what plants need what light can help you provide the right amount for your plant. High light is light right next to a sunny windowsill. Cacti, succulents, and many houseplants will thrive here, but others will need to have the light filtered. Medium light is light that is about 3 to 5 feet away from a sunny window. It produces a distinct shadow. Most houseplants thrive at this level of light without a problem. Low light is the farthest from a sunny window, and it produces a fuzzy shadow. Some houseplants can tolerate this light and stop growing yet remain healthy. Use artificial light if natural light is not adequate. You can buy special grow bulbs or plant lights in big box stores or garden stores. These bulbs produce a light that is similar to natural sunlight. Turn off the lights on a schedule so plants can rest at night. You can also use ordinary household "daylight" bulbs, which are the same as grow bulbs only less expensive. These produce a bluish-white light. LEDs generate less heat and less energy than incandescent, fluorescent, or halogen bulbs. With these bulbs, the plants don't get overheated as easily, and you save on energy bills. Keep plants away from drafts, temperature fluctuations, and extremes. No plant likes to be exposed to a sudden change in temperature, which can happen when a cold front or thunderstorm passes through. The same goes for being near doorways and windows connected to outer walls. Changes of 5 to 10 degrees are harmless, but larger fluctuations can shock the plant. Most houseplants can thrive in temperatures of 60 degrees to 75 degrees Fahrenheit. If your plants are exposed to temperature shocks, they may collapse and lose all their leaves and/or blooms. Too much cold can lead to rot and leaf curl, while too much heat can lead to shriveled flowers and yellowed leaves. Give cacti and succulents heat. You may have areas in your house that are "heat pools," which can reach extremely warm temperatures. For instance, extra sunny areas and heat sources like computers, TVs, heaters, and air conditioners. Most plants will not tolerate this kind of heat at all, but cacti and succulents can thrive. Water each type of plant appropriately. Giving your plant too little water will result in a scorched plant with crispy leaves. Too much water can lead to mold, fungus, and stinky rot. Understanding what each plant needs will help you give it the right amount of water. Low Moisture: Many desert plants belong to this group. They don't like high-moisture environments, since they cause mold, fungi, and rot to grow on the plant. With these, provide low humidity and water only when the soil is almost dried out. Moderate Moisture: Many plants enjoy moderate moisture and humidity. Wait for the soil to dry out a bit (like a half or quarter of the soil) and water thoroughly. Keep an eye out and provide humidity as needed. High Moisture: Some houseplants are real water babies and love high humidity and soil moisture. These plants do better in a terrarium, vitrine, or indoor water display. A few even can live with their roots submerged in water. Keep plants bright, hot, and moist rather than dark, cold, and damp. If your plant is subjected to high humidity and low temperature and light, it is likely to rot and grow fungus. That means you need to lower your watering levels if the temperature drops. English ivies, English primroses, begonias, and some ferns don't like crowded, damp conditions. Don't place these plants in crowded plant groups or they will get rot and mildew. Water the plants as needed. Feel the soil with your finger. For high moisture plants, if the surface is completely dry, water immediately. For moderate moisture, stick your finger in the soil to half an inch or so. If it's dry, water it. Pour water into the soil until the water runs through the drainage holes. This process waters it thoroughly. Plants love this technique, and it helps the roots at the bottom get water. Also, it gets rid of leftover salts in the soil. Give it the best water. For practice, use room temperature water that has sat out overnight. However, you can also use lukewarm faucet water if you need to water a plant immediately. If you're not certain of the chemicals in your water or if your plant is sensitive to chemicals, you can use filtered water or spring water. Watch how your plant reacts. Some plants hate fluoride, lime, or salts that are present in water sources. Avoid trying to water plants on a strict schedule. Even the exact same species in the exact same situation in different pots will need water at different times. Treat each plant as a individual. Also, plants higher up on shelves or in hanging pots need more water usually than their counterparts that are lower down. When dealing with plants that require high humidity , it's best to leave the plant alone and watch for signs of needed humidity. The leaves will scorch on the edges or tips and shrivel up. Avoid misting plants. Many species like humidity but don't want water on their leaves, such as plants with fuzzy leaves. Instead of misting, place the plant in a humidity tray containing pebbles and water, buy a humidifier, place the plants in a group display, or plant in a greenhouse-like terrarium for watering. However, bromeliads and many orchids love being misted. In fact, bromeliads like water in their cups and at the top of the plant, and Tillandsias or air plants have water-absorbing scales on their leaves. Some plants get ugly cola/coffee spots if misted. Leathery leaves get corky spots. Several species develop glassy, limp leaves. Hard water also causes hard white chalky markings on misted foliage. Splashing cold water on leaves can kill the leaves via rot. Wet leaves in full sun can burn leaves like a sunbeam through a magnifying glass can burn paper. Water some sensitive plants from the bottom of the plant. Some plants like African Violets and Cyclamens will rot if water touches their crowns or bulbs, which kills the plant. Set the pot in a bowl of lukewarm water and lift it up when the water stops bubbling and the soil glistens on the surface. Choose the container for the plant. When it comes to pots, you have a wide range of options. You can use a nonporous or porous container, depending on your preference. You can also hide an uglier planter in a prettier container. Nonporous containers have the advantage of holding moisture in the soil so plants don't dry out quickly, which is good when you are a forgetful caregiver. These include plastic, ceramic, and glazed clay. Porous containers absorb water through soil, which can dry the roots; this type of pot might be helpful if you overwater. These pots also absorb fertilizer salts, and the inside edges of these can be loaded with salts that can burn roots. Pick a good quality potting soil. Good quality potting mix has particles of various sizes instead of only fine particles resembling black sand. Also, better quality potting mix has a fluffy, damp, crumbly feel. Stay away from soils with added fertilizers which can burn plant roots and kill plants. Most plants are sensitive to salts in soil. Bad quality potting mix has a tendency to become very compact, making it difficult for roots to penetrate the soil. Also, watch out for weed seeds and bugs. You can also mix your own soil from ingredients found at a garden center, such as peat moss, humus, perlite, pure garden sand (not builder's sand), and others. Recipes for soils are available on the web and in garden books. Many plants also have specific soil needs, and you can find soils specific for these groups. For instance, many tropical plants prefer acidic African violet mix and rhododendron foods. Other examples are cacti and succulent mix, orchid mix, and citrus food. Transplant the plant as necessary. First, choose a pot that's 1/2 an inch larger than the old pot. To transplant the pot, remove the plant from its original pot by turning the plant on its side and lifting the plant out. If necessary, use a spade or knife to separate the roots from the inside of the pot. You might have to cut or break the container to free the plant. Lift the plants by the leaves or woody stems not by the soft stems or crown, which prevents damage to tender soft stems and roots. Cover the bottom of the new pot with pebbles to have adequate drainage. Also, if it has one central drainage hole, cover the bottom with a piece of fine screen. Fill the bottom of the pot with your soil so that the plant crown (where the roots meet the stems) is almost to the top of the pot. Fill the surrounding areas with soil. Shake the pot to settle the soil, which gets rid of large air pockets that could kill roots. Give your plant water, and let it rest for a few weeks. Do not fertilize for a few weeks Plant according to each species' preference. Some plants (such as Chinese Evergreens) like to be planted deeply, while others do not want to be planted too deeply, such as African violets. Learn your plants' preferences. Also, different plants like different pot heights and widths. Palms, like areca palm , need narrow deeper pots to support their deep taproots. Azaleas and African violets like shallow pots. Flowering plants and some other species like being cramped in the same pot they've lived in for years. Fertilize the right amount. Too much fertilizer can result in weak growth that needs to be removed, as well as white crusts on the soil and burn marks on the leaves. Plants with too little fertilizer just stop growing and start declining, slowing down, and losing leaves. Using the wrong fertilizer (like a high-nitrogen fertilizer) on a flowering plant will lead to no flowers or bad performance. The three main macronutrients are: Nitrogen (N) is for leaf growth. Phosphorus (P) is for the development of roots, flowers, seeds, and fruit. Potassium (K) promotes strong stem growth, movement of water, and flowering and fruiting. Look for these macronutrients presented in the format of dashes and numbers (e.g., 10-10-10 or 16-4-8), always in the NPK order. Generally, foliage plants need more nitrogen in their soils while flowering plants need more potassium and phosphorus. Also, a good garden store will have a large selection of fertilizers for each specific group. Fertilize wisely. Follow the instructions on the package. It's best to choose either a liquid fertilizer or a mix-in fertilizer rather than fertilizer sticks and pellets. The sticks and pellets don't always melt correctly into the soil and leave "salt spots" that can burn roots. Whenever you use fertilizer, use less than the recommended amount to avoid harming your plant. Don't fertilize plants during the dormant season or when they are not growing. Many plants appreciate a good rest during the cool season. They receive less light thus have less energy to be used in making food. Fertilizer during this dormant (sleep) season will result in weak, leggy growth that is more susceptible to diseases and pests. Also, this growth will not produce strong flowers or fruit. Learn about the conditions of the plants' native environment. Learning the native climate and soil conditions may help uncover little secrets that will help you grow better plants. You can do a bit of research about each plant to find out more. Inspect your plants for changes and problems, including pests. Routine checking up on your plants will help you spot problems when they are still minor. If you don't check up on your plants, you may find they are too far gone to save. Act quickly to resolve problems and illness when they occur. If you find pest or disease, start the appropriate pest- or disease-killing procedures immediately. If your problem is poor conditions, correct them quickly to avoid further damage. Many completely different ailments produce similar symptoms. Look for combined symptoms. Leaf drop and yellowing symptoms due to dried-out soil will accompany dry soil and scorch marks. Practice good grooming skills. If you see a rotten, dead, or deformed leaf, pluck it off. Remove spent and dead flowers, as both dead leaves and flowers are sources for disease. Many soft stem plants like Pilea benefit from a procedure called pinching in which you pinch off the top of a stem to encourage side shoots. This procedure results in fuller growth. Use these clippings for cuttings. Indoor trees and shrubs also need pruning to help encourage healthy growth, an attractive shape, and blooming. Some plants only bloom on new wood. Clean your plant leaves. If the plant tolerates water on leaves, give them a nice lukewarm shower, or set the plant out in a summer rainstorm. Leaves that don't like water on the leaves are best dusted with a makeup brush. Provide the proper dormant season for the plants. Many tropical houseplants in their native tropical habitat don't go dormant at all and keep growing. Others, however, have distinct sleeping seasons that need to be provided for proper growth. You'll need to provide less water and warmth for a period of weeks or months. During the winter, almost any plant can get by with less water or warmth, which results in vigorous spring growth or even flowers and fruit. Signs of dormancy vary among plant species. Evergreen species just stop growing. Deciduous plants drop all their leaves. Most bulbs like caladiums simply appear to go dead above ground while the bulb lives on. In fact, the calla lily unusually falls asleep during the growing season in northern climates due to the opposite seasons of its South African home. Cacti and leafless succulents don't display dormancy but appreciate cold dryness in winter. Do not fertilize a plant during winter or dormant season unless it's required for the species. The plant's roots will not be using the nutrients, and it will damage roots or force the plant into active growth, which results in weak foliage and flower performance. Watch for the signs of poor soil conditions. Compacted soil results in water and nutrients draining too fast into the draining dish. The soil should bubble and make soaking sounds when you water it. In soil that is too heavy, plants will have symptoms of weak brittle stems and normal leaves. Sometimes the plant will snap off the root ball with a slight tug, or stronger species will be less vigorous. Plants with taproots and some indoor trees will topple over in soil that's too light.	Go to a reputable plant supplier. Buy a durable plant that doesn't die easily. Decide between a flowering and foliage houseplant. Check the leaves and blooms for health. Look for health in the root ball. Watch for deceptive marketing. Transport the plant quickly to its new home. Pick a good spot in your house. Wait for the plant to perk up. Move the plant to its permanent location. Avoid fertilizing the plant. Provide the correct light. Use artificial light if natural light is not adequate. Keep plants away from drafts, temperature fluctuations, and extremes. Give cacti and succulents heat. Water each type of plant appropriately. Keep plants bright, hot, and moist rather than dark, cold, and damp. Water the plants as needed. Give it the best water. Avoid trying to water plants on a strict schedule. Avoid misting plants. Water some sensitive plants from the bottom of the plant. Choose the container for the plant. Pick a good quality potting soil. Transplant the plant as necessary. Plant according to each species' preference. Fertilize the right amount. Fertilize wisely. Learn about the conditions of the plants' native environment. Inspect your plants for changes and problems, including pests. Act quickly to resolve problems and illness when they occur. Practice good grooming skills. Clean your plant leaves. Provide the proper dormant season for the plants. Watch for the signs of poor soil conditions.
https://www.wikihow.com/Refill-Copic-Markers	How to Refill Copic Markers	To refill copic markers, remove the caps from the marker and ink container to equalize the pressure in the marker. Drip the ink onto the marker nib slowly, allowing it to absorb the new ink. When the ink drips out the other end of the marker, it's full. Replace the caps and you can continue drawing!	Purchase Copic ink refills in the desired colors. Regardless of what kind of Copic markers you have, like original or wide, Copic's Various Ink can be used to refill all of them. Just make sure to refill each marker with the same color ink that it had originally. Go to an arts and crafts store or order the ink refills online. Protect your hands, clothes, and work surface. If you overfill the marker, it may leak out of the other end. To prevent the ink from staining your bed, desk, or floor, cover the area with plastic sheeting or several layers of newspaper. You may also want to roll up your sleeves and wear gloves so the ink doesn't stain your hands or clothes. Remove the caps from the marker and the ink container. Though you'll want to refill the marker from the wider side, you should still remove both caps to equalize the pressure within the marker. Simply pull off the cap at each end of the marker. Then, unscrew the cap from the refill container of ink. Drip the ink onto the marker nib slowly. The Various Ink has a small tip that allows you to add ink 1 drop at a time. Hold the marker below the container of ink at a 45-degree angle. Slowly drip the ink onto the tip of the marker, which is called the nib, by gently squeezing the bottle. The nib will absorb the ink. Stop when ink drips out the other end of the marker. Continue to slowly drip ink onto the nib. When you see a drop of ink fall off the nib at the other end of the marker, it is full. Replace the cap on the container of ink as well as the caps on either end of the marker you refilled. Now you can get back to drawing! Acquire a Copic refill booster and refill ink. Look online or in your local craft store for these items. Copic's Various Ink can be used to refill any kind of Copic marker. The Copic refill booster is a special tool with a needle that makes it easy to refill your markers. Put on gloves and cover your workspace. To ensure the ink doesn't stain you or your furniture, take measures to protect yourself and your workspace. Put on gloves and stack newspaper or plastic sheeting over your work area. Wear short sleeves or roll up your sleeves to keep them out of the way. Remove the nib with tweezers and screw the booster onto the ink. Grip the nib on the wider side of the marker with metal tweezers. Firmly pull it straight out of the marker. Remove the cap from the Various Ink refill, then take the booster out of the package and screw it securely onto the Various Ink refill container. Insert the needle into the open end of the marker. Insert the needle of the refill booster into the opening that was created when you removed the nib. You don't have to stick it all the way in the marker—just make sure the end of the needle is inside the opening of the marker. Hold the booster with the ink attached vertically over the top of the marker. Add 1.5 to 2 cc of ink to the marker. Each marking on the side of the Various Ink bottle indicates 1 cc each. Gently squeeze the refill ink container to add 1.5 to 2 cc of ink to the marker. Remove the booster and replace the nib. Take the booster out of the opening in the marker and set it aside. Pick up the nib with the tweezers and push it back into the open end of the marker. Remove the ink from the booster. Unscrew the refill ink from the booster and replace the cap on the ink. Cap the marker as well. Clean the booster needle. Pour a few drops of standard rubbing alcohol or Various Ink cleaning solution down the opening of the booster needle (where you screwed the ink bottle on). Then, swirl a cotton swab around the inside of the booster to remove any remaining ink. Identify a white tip or squeaky sounds. A whitish tip is a surefire indication that the marker has run out of ink. Also, if the marker makes a squeaky noise while you're drawing or coloring, it needs to be refilled. Look for streaky ink and inconsistent coloring. If your marker strokes are showing up as streaky or inconsistent, you may be running out of ink. Compare strokes made by a newer or recently refilled marker to determine if the quality of the color has declined. Refill the markers after 3 years. If you've had your Copic markers for 3 years or longer and haven't refilled them, it's time to do so. Copic markers have a 3-year shelf life, meaning the ink may evaporate after 3 years, leading to inconsistent coloring.	Purchase Copic ink refills in the desired colors. Protect your hands, clothes, and work surface. Remove the caps from the marker and the ink container. Drip the ink onto the marker nib slowly. Stop when ink drips out the other end of the marker. Acquire a Copic refill booster and refill ink. Put on gloves and cover your workspace. Remove the nib with tweezers and screw the booster onto the ink. Insert the needle into the open end of the marker. Add 1.5 to 2 cc of ink to the marker. Remove the booster and replace the nib. Remove the ink from the booster. Clean the booster needle. Identify a white tip or squeaky sounds. Look for streaky ink and inconsistent coloring. Refill the markers after 3 years.
https://www.wikihow.com/Write-an-Application-Letter	How to Write an Application Letter	To format an application letter, start by including your name and contact details in the document header. When choosing a greeting, only use one if you know the person's name your writing to. Otherwise, give the document a title, like "Letter of application" at the top of the page. For the body of the letter, aim to write no more than 1 page of single-spaced paragraphs using a standard font. Finally, conclude your letter with a formal greeting like "Sincerely yours."	Say why you're writing and what you're applying for in the first sentences. Don't let anyone who picks up your letter be confused about what they're reading. The very first things that someone should read should let them know what this letter is, and how they should read it. A good example would be: "I'm writing to apply for the Chimney Sweep position advertised in Rolling Stone. I think my experience in the heating industry makes me uniquely qualified for this position. Please find my application materials and a brief description of my qualifications below." Don't write your name until the signature. It'll be in the header and in the sign-off, so there's no reason to put it in the body of the letter itself. Explain why you are the best candidate. What's unique about you? What do you bring to the table? What will you be able to do for this company, better than any other applicant? A good application letter will stand out form the pack. Be specific. Who are you? Where do you come from? What's your story? These details are important. HR screeners read hundreds of these. Describe your ambitions. Where do you want to go? How will this opportunity help you get there? What skills and experiences make you the right fit? Be as specific as possible and avoid vague language. It's better to describe a time you solved a specific problem at your last job than to just write, "I'm a good problem solver at work." Keep the tone professional. When you're applying for employment, it's important to keep the tone focused on the skills and experiences that make you qualified for employment at the business. It should be less the story of your life and more the reason that you'll be a good employee for the business. Use specific examples to make yourself stand out. Tailor it to the business. If you're applying to work at a record store, you need to talk about music. If you're applying to work at a tech company that writes, "Tell us something totally rad about yourself!" it's probably ok to be a little more informal. Explain how both parties will benefit from your selection. What's at stake in this decision? What will you bring to the table? How will the business or school benefit from having you around? Imagine yourself going to work there, and describe specifically what you can do to help. Don't over-promise. Telling someone that you can guarantee that you'll be able to turn around their sales figures in six months or less is a good way to get fired in six months. Do some research. If you want to stand out from the other applicants, do a little research into the history of the business to which you're applying. What do they do? What is their basic business philosophy? What direction is the business moving in? Any kind of job requires this type of research. If you apply to a restaurant, you need to be familiar with the menu and the kind of customers the restaurant attracts. Consider eating there a few times before you apply. Don't show you're familiar by criticizing a business and telling them what you can do better. Not the time to offer a harsh criticism of a business plan that you don't really know anything about. Address the prompt. If you're writing for a college application or an internship, there will almost always be a short prompt for you to respond to. These are often quite short, which means you'll have some room to get creative. Common prompts include things like, "Outline your qualifications for this position" or "In writing, explain how this position would affect your career goals." Sometimes, the prompt will be as short as, "Tell us something interesting about yourself." If there is no prompt, but you still feel the need to introduce your application with a letter, it's usually best to keep it as short as possible. Explain what you're applying for, why you're applying, and thank the contact for their consideration. That's it. Tell your story. College applications are a unique opportunity to make yourself stand out beyond the numbers of your resume and your transcript. Lots of applicants think the letter should make them sound "smart," but it's better to stand out and make yourself unique. What makes you the unique person you are? Don't worry if it sounds "smart," worry that it makes you memorable. Often, college prompts will ask you to describe a time you struggled, or a time you overcame some obstacle. Write about something unique, a time that you actually failed and dealt with the consequences. The board will get thousands–literally, thousands–of letters about someone's first mission trip, and letters about the time someone's sports team was beaten, then overcame the odds, and won again. Avoid these topics. Write about your future. Where do you want to go next? Employers and college admissions want to hire people who want to succeed and want to go places. If you're writing an application letter, it's important to stand out by describing that you're an ambitious person who'll achieve at a high level. Describe where you want to go. Be specific. If you're writing to a college board, don't say, "I want to go to this college because I need a degree." That's obvious. What do you want to do with it? Why? If you're applying to a business, don't say, "I just need a job." That's obvious. Why this specific job? Don't include stuff that's also on your resume. Your application letter is your one chance in an application to stand out. Listing off the number from your GPA and the boring list of achievements from your resume isn't the best way to do that. The purpose of the letter is to get a sense of who you are, not a list of accomplishments. Don't use the letter to describe the list of schools you've attended, your GPAs, and a list of extra-curricular activities, unless it relates to some anecdote in the letter. Demonstrate that you're familiar with the school you're applying to. Lots of people carpet-bomb the same letter to a bunch of different places, because that's a lot easier than actually writing a separate letter to every place you're applying. Research a little bit about each place, and take some time to make each letter unique, even if you're going from a template. If you're applying to schools, what do you like about the school? What faculty are you interested in? Why this school, instead of another? Keep it short. Cover letters should not be longer than one page, single-spaced. In most cases, you should get some kind of word-count to shoot for, which may be shorter or longer, depending on the purpose of the letter. Always defer to the guidelines you receive. If you don't get a word-count guideline, just focus on making one or two good points about yourself, and keeping it at that. No need to drone on four several pages. Only address the letter if you have someone to address it to. Addressing letters to, "All concerned" or "Sir or Madam" makes your letter look strange and like a computer wrote it. If you're applying, but don't know who is going to read it, leave off the salutation at the beginning and title the document instead, so it will be clear. Instead of a salutation, write, "Letter of Application" at the top left corner of the page, or put it in the header on the left side at the top. If you do have a contact, address it to them, making sure the name is spelled correctly. Then space down and start the body of the letter. Use a standard font. Cover letters should always be word processed and single-spaced. Use a normal, standard font, like Calibri or Times New Roman. Avoid childish looking or gimmicky fonts, like Comic Sans when you're applying for jobs and school applications. Use a formal closing. When you get to the end of your letter, add a space, then include a closing, like "Sincerely" and sign your name. Sometimes, it's appropriate to type your name, then print out the letter and sign it in pen. That can be a nice touch. Put your contact information in the header. The following contact information should be included in the header of the document, usually over to the right margin: Your name Mailing address E-mail Telephone and/or fax number	Say why you're writing and what you're applying for in the first sentences. Explain why you are the best candidate. Keep the tone professional. Explain how both parties will benefit from your selection. Do some research. Address the prompt. Tell your story. Write about your future. Don't include stuff that's also on your resume. Demonstrate that you're familiar with the school you're applying to. Keep it short. Only address the letter if you have someone to address it to. Use a standard font. Use a formal closing. Put your contact information in the header.
https://www.wikihow.com/Dry-Sage	How to Dry Sage	Before drying your sage, remove the leaves from the stalk, rinse them in cold water, and dry them carefully with a towel. Next, make bundles of 8 leaves and tie a piece of string around the stems of each bundle. Place a paper bag with holes in it over your sage to protect it from dust, then hang the sage in a well-ventilated place for 7-10 days. Alternatively, place the sage leaves in a single layer on a cooking sheet before putting them in the oven on its lowest temperature for 1 hour.	Pull the leaves from the stalk. Since sage has a thick leaf, it dries well off of the stalk. Gently pull off each leaf and place it on a clean towel. You could also use sharp scissors to cut the leaves from the stalk, but this is more time consuming. Discard any damaged, soiled, or imperfect leaves. Check each leaf to make sure it's healthy. Otherwise, your sage may not taste right, spoiling any dish you season with it. Inspect the leaves for insects. Insects are common on herbs, including sage. Look over each leaf to make sure there are no obvious signs of insects, such as bugs crawling, webbing, or little white specs that could be eggs. You can remove insects, but it's best to discard any leaves that have webbing or possible eggs. Rinse the leaves in cool water, shaking off any excess. Hold the sage under running water for a few seconds either in your hand or in a colander. Since sage leaves are larger, using a colander is an easy way to rinse the herbs. After the rinse, gently shake the sage and then place them on a clean, dry towel. Dry the sage with a clean towel. Gently blot away the remaining dampness by pressing a 2nd clean towel over the herbs. Place the prepared herbs on a dry towel. Gather the leaves into a small bundle. Pick up the leaves individually, holding them by their ends. Add no more than 8 leaves to a bundle to ensure that they are able to get adequate air circulation for drying. Tie the bundles with string, twine, or a rubber band. Wrap the tie around the base of the stems to secure the bundle. Leave extra string for hanging or tie a new piece of string around the end of the bundle so that you can hang the sage. If you use a rubber band, it will tighten as the sage dries. This will prevent you from losing leaves. Cover your sage bundles with a paper bag with holes punched into it. The bag will protect your herbs from dust, while the holes still allow for airflow around the leaves. Place the bag over the bundles, with the bottom open. You can wrap them in muslin instead of a paper bag. However, do not use plastic, as it will cause mold. Some people choose not to cover the herbs because they like the look of drying herbs, but you will need to watch for dust. Hang the sage in a well-ventilated area away from direct sunlight. The bundles should hang upside down from a string. Make sure that the place you choose gets good air circulation, such as an area near a fireplace or in a dry area of the kitchen. It's best to dry the sage indoors for better flavor and color. You can also air dry the sage on a paper towel. Lay out each leaf individually and change the paper towels daily. Avoid moist areas of your home like the sink, stove, or dishwasher. Turn the sprigs every day or 2 for even drying. Unhook the string holding the bundles and turn the sage around. Even if you think the sage is getting the same air circulation around the bundle, the sides of the sage bundles could dry at different rates. It's possible that one side will get better air or more light, causing it to dry faster. Watch for mold if you live in a humid area. Herbs can quickly mold if left to dry in a moist area. You can still air dry herbs in humid areas, but carefully monitor the sage for mold. If you see any black spots or white patches, take the bundles down immediately. If you live in a very humid area, it may be better to choose a different drying method, such as a food dehydrator. Let them dry for 7 to 10 days. Check your sage daily to evaluate the progress. Give your leaves the time they need to dry, as taking them down early could ruin them. Test the leaves to see if they're dry. Check the leaves to see if they are dry and crispy. Pick up a leaf and see if it easily crumbles between your fingers. If it does, then the sage is dry. Treat air-dried sage for insects and insect eggs. It's possible to miss insects or their eggs during inspection, so you should always treat sage after air drying it. You can treat it in either the oven or the freezer. If you use the oven, heat it at 160 degrees Fahrenheit (71 degrees Celsius) for 30 minutes. Make sure that you do not go over this time because you may damage the herbs. If you use the freezer, freeze it for 48 hours. You do not need to treat the sage if you use a heat method to dry it. Set your dehydrator on a low temperature. The ideal temperature for drying sage is between 95 and 110 degrees Fahrenheit (35 and 46 degrees Celsius). Lower temperatures take longer to dry the sage, but they limit the risk that you will accidentally cook the sage, which will ruin them. If you live in an area with high humidity, you may need to set the temperature at 125 degrees Fahrenheit (52 degrees Celsius). Spread out the leaves on a tray in a single layer. Make sure that the leaves do not touch each other or overlap, as this could prevent them from drying properly. You may have to dry the sage in batches if you have a lot. Dry the sage alone so that the flavors will not get mixed. It's tempting to dry several herbs together or to dry the herbs with fruit, but this could cause the flavors to mix. Stick to one item at a time in the dehydrator. Check the leaves every 30 minutes to see if they're dry. Depending on your dehydrator, your sage may take 1 to 4 hours to dry. Read the instructions that came with your dehydrator to see if it recommends a time. Determine if the sage is dry. Look for crispy, dry edges on the leaves. If they look dry, pick up a leaf and see if it easily crumbles between your fingers. When it does, then the sage is dry. Lay the sage in a single layer on a cookie sheet. It's best to wrap the cookie sheet in muslin or parchment paper before you put the sage on it. Make sure that the leaves do not touch each other or overlap, as this can make them dry unevenly. If only part of the leaf dries, then the sage could be ruined. Set your oven on the lowest temperature. Choose the lowest temperature on your oven because oven drying can quickly destroy the flavor, color, and oils in the sage. You should dry the leaves as slowly as possible to prevent damage. The highest temperature you should use is 180 degrees Fahrenheit (82 degrees Celsius). Prop open the oven door if you have an electric oven. This allows the air to circulate, which the herbs need to dry. It also keeps the temperature from rising too high inside the oven. If you have a gas oven, don't prop open the oven because it's dangerous to let the gas fill the kitchen. Instead, open the oven every 5 minutes to allow the air to circulate. Turn the sage leaves after 30 minutes. Pull the cookie sheet from the oven and set it on a heatproof surface. Wear oven mitts and use tongs or a fork to flip the sage. Then return the tray to the oven. Allow the sage to dry for 1 hour. Set a timer and check the sage every 15 minutes to make sure that it is not drying too quickly. If you suspect that the sage is dry before you reach the 1 hour mark, pull it early. It's easy to over-dry the herb. Test the sage for dryness. The leaves should be dry and crispy. Rub a leaf between your fingers to see if it crumbles easily. Crumble the sage by rolling it between your fingers. If you're using sage for seasoning, it's best to crumble it. Rub each leaf separately, continuing until all of the sage is ready for storage. If you are using the sage to form a sage bundle, keep the leaves whole. Transfer the dried sage to an airtight container. You could use a jar, tupperware container, or ziplock bag. Make sure that the seal doesn't have any leaks, as moisture from the air could ruin the batch. Place the container in a cool, dry area. You can store the sage in a pantry, cabinet, or in the refrigerator. If you use a clear jar, place it in the dark to preserve the color of your sage.	Pull the leaves from the stalk. Discard any damaged, soiled, or imperfect leaves. Inspect the leaves for insects. Rinse the leaves in cool water, shaking off any excess. Dry the sage with a clean towel. Gather the leaves into a small bundle. Tie the bundles with string, twine, or a rubber band. Cover your sage bundles with a paper bag with holes punched into it. Hang the sage in a well-ventilated area away from direct sunlight. Turn the sprigs every day or 2 for even drying. Watch for mold if you live in a humid area. Let them dry for 7 to 10 days. Test the leaves to see if they're dry. Treat air-dried sage for insects and insect eggs. Set your dehydrator on a low temperature. Spread out the leaves on a tray in a single layer. Dry the sage alone so that the flavors will not get mixed. Check the leaves every 30 minutes to see if they're dry. Determine if the sage is dry. Lay the sage in a single layer on a cookie sheet. Set your oven on the lowest temperature. Prop open the oven door if you have an electric oven. Turn the sage leaves after 30 minutes. Allow the sage to dry for 1 hour. Test the sage for dryness. Crumble the sage by rolling it between your fingers. Transfer the dried sage to an airtight container. Place the container in a cool, dry area.
https://www.wikihow.com/Windmill	How to Windmill	To windmill, start by crouching down on your knees and getting into a hang-glide position, where your legs are spread out in the air and your hands are on the ground. Then, bend your knees and lift your legs while pushing the ground with your right hand so you start to turn. Next, swing your left leg counterclockwise and up into the air so it's at a 45-degree angle. Now, swing your right leg around in front of your left leg and kick your left leg under as you start to collapse. Finally, lift your left leg and catch yourself in the starting position.	Crouch on the ground on your knees. Before you do the windmill, you have to get down on the floor. This can help you position your hands correctly, so you can support yourself as your legs start spinning. As you get ready to place your hands down, your head can be out in front of you, just a few inches from the ground. Get into a hang-glide position. You should already be comfortable and familiar with this position if you want to be able to do the windmill. To do this right, you just have to place your left elbow between your waist and rib cage, and your right hand diagonally up and to the right of your left hand. The fingers of your right hand should be pointing straight away from you, while the fingers of your left hand should be pointing to your left side, so they make a right angle with your right fingers. The hang-glide is a version of a freeze, which is a technique that involves halting body motion, in order to make it look like you're literally "freezing" in the air. This is similar to the turtle freeze, except in the turtle freeze, both elbows are stabbed into your gut instead of just one. Some people also call this move the "crab freeze." Push the ground with your right hand while lifting your legs with bent knees. This will get you in the position you need to be in to start swinging your legs around. You should already have the strength to lift up your legs a bit, as if you're going to go into the handstand position. Now, your legs will be ready to spin around counter-clockwise. You can also do this move in reverse, placing your right elbow into your gut and your left hand out, in order to move clockwise. Swing your left leg around counter-clockwise. Now, dig that left elbow into your gut and really push off of that right leg to get your left leg swinging up and counter-clockwise, so it cuts the air at a 45-degree angle as it moves up. This leg will wind up and will generate the power and momentum to get your right leg swinging forward. Your knee should be bent a bit, so it's easier for you to move your leg. If your leg is too straight, you'll have less control. As your legs move up higher, your front body and head will move down lower close to the ground, because your weight will be balancing. You'll need to maintain a strong center of gravity to keep your head from falling too close to the ground or from not having enough height to get your legs up. Though you should know and master the hang-glide position before you start swinging your legs around, you can actually keep that left elbow away from your gut until you start swinging that leg around. Once you kick that left leg, you can then place the elbow into your gut, so you have more height when you begin the kick. Some people do start in the hang-glide position, so it's up to you to see what works best. Swing your right leg around in front of the left leg. Now, the power from your left leg should have given your right leg enough power to start swinging forward in front of it. The right leg should dip down a bit as the left leg swings forward, and then it should naturally rise up. This may seem a little confusing because you'd expect the leg in front to move forward first, but you need that back left leg to generate momentum for the right leg. Your right leg should also be bent a bit as it swings in front of your left leg. Keep in mind that, while they say that your legs are in a "V" shape, in a true windmill, the legs are actually further apart and can even approach more of a straight line than a V-shape, if you get enough momentum going, so they almost look like helicopter blades. Kick your left leg under your right leg while collapsing. Now, that left leg will actually swing under that right leg, almost like a scissor, as you turn over and begin to collapse. To collapse, roll off your left hand and on to your left forearm. Move to your left shoulder and then to your back. To collapse, your left elbow will move out of your gut and your forearm will bend along your tricep. This will help get your hand out of the way as you move onto your back. Lift your left leg while kicking your right leg under. At the same time, roll onto your right shoulder and get back into the hang-glide position. This may be the trickiest part. Essentially, you have to generate enough momentum to get back to the position you started from, so you can do the windmill again and again. If you don't generate enough momentum, you'll be stuck on your back without enough speed to roll onto your hands again. You can work on getting one cycle really down at first a bit more slowly, because to keep repeating the process, you'll have to really generate a lot of speed and momentum, and that can be hard when you're just learning the ropes. Catch the hang-glide position again. As you roll onto your back, use your left hand to push the floor away from you to make it easier to turn back onto your side, then, as your left arm swings over your side, you'll be pressed onto your right forearm, which you can use to push your body up a bit to get closer to the starting position. Then, you'll turn back onto your chest, pushing the floor away with your hands, and will angle your stomach back onto your left elbow with your left hand under it and your right arm out, just as you did the first time. Getting in a stable hang-glide position again is crucial to maintaining your momentum and keeping your balance as you repeat the windmill. If you don't have a solid foundation, you won't be able to swing your legs around without getting off-kilter. Swing your left leg around and repeat the process. Once you've got the basics of the windmill down, then you can start all over again and work on really getting it down. When you're ready to stop, you can practice stopping on your left hand and then twisting at your waist with your legs bent. When you first start out, you may only be able to do one or two windmills in a row, but the more you do it, the more you'll be able to do without losing your momentum or balance. You can also transition into another move, like the backspin, if you want. Improve your technique. As you get more comfortable with the windmill, you can work on gaining flow, smoothness, and creating a complete motion with the windmill. At first, you may think of it as a move that is done step-by-step, but when you really get it down, you'll start to see it as one smooth motion. You can work on practicing your kick and really getting a good whip with that left leg. Do a power windmill. A power windmill still requires you to move your legs around, but you'll be rotating on your head instead of using your hands. This will be harder, but it will allow you to try different moves with your hands to mix things up. If you're comfortable pivoting on your head and trying the power windmill, then here are some tricks you can add to your repertoire: The Genie. In this power windmill, you cross your hands over your chest. The Confusion. Here, you'll place your hands over your face. The Eggbeater. In this variation, you can place your hands on your thighs. The Lotus. For this move, you'll do a windmill with your legs in the lotus position. Do a halo. Once you feel like your windmill is really up to speed, then you can try to do a halo, which is an even more advanced move. The halo is similar to the windmill because you'll still be using your arms and chest to support you as your legs spin around, but in the halo, your legs will swing much closer to the floor instead of at an angle, or they can go in the opposite direction, moving more and more vertically until it looks like you're doing a headspin. You can think of it as a "halo" because your legs will be moving so fast that you'll be doing one unified move.	Crouch on the ground on your knees. Get into a hang-glide position. Push the ground with your right hand while lifting your legs with bent knees. Swing your left leg around counter-clockwise. Swing your right leg around in front of the left leg. Kick your left leg under your right leg while collapsing. Lift your left leg while kicking your right leg under. Catch the hang-glide position again. Swing your left leg around and repeat the process. Improve your technique. Do a power windmill. Do a halo.
https://www.wikihow.com/Get-Rid-of-High-Potassium-in-the-Body-Naturally	How to Lower Your Potassium Levels: Can Natural Remedies Help?	While potassium is necessary for proper nerve and muscle function, it can be harmful if too much builds up in your system. However, you can lower your levels naturally by staying hydrated and cutting out foods and drinks that have a lot of potassium. Dehydration is one of the main sources of potassium build up, so drink 10 to 12 glasses of water a day. However, limit your milk and juice intake since these products are typically high in potassium. You can also decrease your potassium by eliminating certain foods, like bananas, beet greens, avocados, and cooked broccoli. If you don't know the cause of your high potassium levels or if you have symptoms of hyperkalemia, like muscle fatigue, abnormal heart rate, or nausea, see a doctor immediately.	Consume less than 2,000 mg of potassium per day. While the average person consumes about 3,500-4,500 mg of potassium per day, this is way too much for someone with hyperkalemia. If you're on a low-potassium diet, then consume no more than 2,000 mg per day so normalize your levels. Keep track of your diet and stay within this range. Your doctor or dietitian may suggest a different daily level. If so, follow their instructions. Check nutrition labels on all the packaged food you buy. All prepared or packaged food should have a nutrition label breaking down its nutrients. Check this label to calculate the amount of potassium you're eating each day. If you buy fresh foods or a product doesn't have a nutrition label, look up the potassium content online or on a nutrition app. Pay attention to the serving sizes when you check the nutrition facts. You might assume that a whole package is 1 serving, but in most cases a package contains several servings. Eat foods that have less than 150 mg of potassium per serving. Foods with less than 150 mg of potassium are considered low-potassium, so base your diet around these foods. You can eat most of these foods without worrying about going over your daily limit, but still pay attention to serving sizes so you don't accidentally eat too much. Fruits and vegetables low in potassium include berries, apples, peaches, pears, pineapple, squash, rhubarb, radishes, peppers, onions, lettuce, eggplant, celery, cabbage, beans, and cauliflower. Bread, cereal, lean meats, pasta, and rice are also low in potassium. Limit or avoid foods with more than 200 mg of potassium per serving. Foods more than 200 mg of potassium are considered medium or high-potassium. You can have some medium-potassium foods as long as you're careful to limit how much you eat. In general, cut out high-potassium foods entirely. Medium-potassium foods include asparagus, carrots, collard greens, Brussel sprouts, corn, cherries, grapefruit, pears, and oranges. High-potassium foods you should eliminate include avocados, bananas, dried fruits, artichokes, honeydew, potatoes, spinach, beets, bran, chocolate, granola, milk, and peanut butter. Avoid all salt-substitutes. Most salt substitutes are made from potassium chloride, so they'll give you a very high potassium dose. Cut these products out of your diet entirely. Some brand names for salt substitutes are Nu-Salt, No Salt, MySALT, and Also Salt. If you aren't sure what a product is, check the label. If it says "salt substitute" or "lite/light salt" anywhere, then don't use it. Cut sports drinks out of your diet. Sports drinks are specifically designed to give you high doses of electrolytes, including potassium. Cut these out of your diet entirely as well. Stick with plain water or seltzer instead. Consult a dietitian if you need more advice. Since so many foods contain different levels of potassium, sticking with a low-potassium diet can be confusing. If you don't know where to start or have trouble sticking with your diet, then schedule an appointment with a dietitian. They can help you design and follow the best diet for your health. Ask your doctor for a referral to a dietitian if you need help finding one. Drain the liquid from canned food and meats. The liquid from canned products and juice from meats all contain potassium that's leaked out of the food. Reduce your overall potassium intake by draining liquid and juice from these foods before you eat them. If you use canned vegetables like beans, drain and rinse them to get rid of any excess potassium. Leach vegetables to lower the potassium content. Leaching is a process that draws potassium out of high-potassium foods, particularly vegetables, so you can eat them. Start by washing and peeling the food. Slice it into ⁄ 8 in (0.32 cm) sections and rinse them off in warm water. Then soak them in warm water, using at least 10 times more water than food. Leave them for 2 hours, then rinse them off once more before cooking them. Leaching doesn't take all of the potassium out of these foods, so watch your portion sizes so you don't eat too much. This works well with potatoes, beets, rutabagas, carrots, and squash. Avoid dietary supplements unless your doctor tells you to take them. Dietary and herbal supplements might have some potassium in them as an additive. It's best to avoid these unless your doctor tells you to take them for your health. Stop taking medications with potassium if your doctor tells you to. Some pills or tablets could contain potassium as an additive as well. If you're on a low-potassium diet and take medication regularly, ask your doctor if it contains potassium. If so, your doctor might be able to switch you to a different type. Never stop taking medications without your doctor telling you to. If you're using OTC medications, try asking the staff pharmacist if they contain any potassium. See your doctor right away if you experience hyperkalemia symptoms. The most common symptoms are muscle fatigue or weakness, nausea, vomiting, difficulty breathing, chest pains, and an erratic heartbeat. If you experience these symptoms, then it's very important to have an exam right away. Even if you don't have high potassium, these symptoms could be from a different health condition. See your doctor as soon as possible for an exam to rule everything out. Flush potassium out of your system with diuretics for a minor case. Diuretics, sometimes called water pills, make you urinate more frequently. This can help flush potassium out of your system and lower your overall levels. If your doctor prescribes this medication, take it exactly as directed. Your doctor will also probably tell you to drink more water while you're taking diuretics. This helps your kidneys excrete more potassium. Your doctor may also administer diuretics in IV form. Take potassium binders to remove potassium if your doctor prescribes them. If you have a more serious case of hyperkalemia, your doctor will probably prescribe medication to help reduce the amount of potassium in your system. Potassium binders help flush the nutrient out of your body to prevent your levels from getting too high. Take them exactly as directed if your doctor prescribes this medication. Sodium zirconium cyclosilicate and patiromer are 2 common potassium binders. This medication usually comes on powder form. Mix a dosage into a glass of water and drink the whole thing as directed. Have an IV treatment of calcium, glucose, or insulin for more severe cases. These 3 compounds can push potassium out of your system. Your doctor may choose this option if you need to flush the potassium out quickly, like if your hyperkalemia symptoms are severe. One of these compounds, or a combination, will be pumped into your blood through an IV. This should help your potassium levels return to normal. You'll probably have to go to the hospital for this treatment. Your doctor will likely still instruct you to follow a low-potassium diet after this to make sure it doesn't happen again.	Consume less than 2,000 mg of potassium per day. Check nutrition labels on all the packaged food you buy. Eat foods that have less than 150 mg of potassium per serving. Limit or avoid foods with more than 200 mg of potassium per serving. Avoid all salt-substitutes. Cut sports drinks out of your diet. Consult a dietitian if you need more advice. Drain the liquid from canned food and meats. Leach vegetables to lower the potassium content. Avoid dietary supplements unless your doctor tells you to take them. Stop taking medications with potassium if your doctor tells you to. See your doctor right away if you experience hyperkalemia symptoms. Flush potassium out of your system with diuretics for a minor case. Take potassium binders to remove potassium if your doctor prescribes them. Have an IV treatment of calcium, glucose, or insulin for more severe cases.
https://www.wikihow.com/Make-a-Milkshake-Without-a-Blender	How to Make a Milkshake Without a Blender	To make a milkshake without a blender, start by adding 3 parts ice cream and 1 part milk to a bowl. Then, use a spoon or a whisk to mix the ice cream and milk together. Once you're satisfied with the consistency, pour your milkshake into a glass, top it with some whipped cream, and enjoy!	Grab a large enough tupperware container that has a lid, or a drink shaker. Since you don't have a blender, you can use a container that has a lid or a cocktail shaker to shake your milkshake ingredients together. It's best to choose a container with a lid for shaking and storing any leftover milkshake. You can also use a large lidded jar such as a mason jar or blender bottle if you have one. If you want something like a shake, you can use a drink shaker. Note. If you decide to use a bottle with a spherical whisk to help mix your ingredients, mix any powder with milk in the bottle first. Then add your ice cream. Scoop your ice cream into your container. Since you don't have a blender, you may want to consider using a lighter ice cream. A light ice cream will make your milkshake fluffier, while a thicker ice cream will make it creamier. However, a thicker ice cream will be harder to mix. To make your ice cream easier to scoop and mix, consider letting it sit at room temperature for 10 to 15 minutes, or heating in the microwave for about 20 seconds. You can also substitute frozen yogurt or sorbet instead of ice cream. Try homemade ice cream , it tastes great and can be easier to mix. Add milk. Pour your milk into your container on top of the ice cream. You want to have a ratio of about three parts ice cream to one part milk. Like your ice cream, the thicker the milk, the creamier your milkshake will be. If you are adding any powder, like malt powder or protein powder, mix it in with your milk first. If you have a water bottle that has a spherical whisk, use it to mix up your milk and powder. Add any other ingredients. If you want to add fruit or candy in your milkshake, pour it in on top of your milk and ice cream. If you are adding fruit or chunks of candy, mash up your fruit or candy in a bowl or with a mortar and pestle before adding it to your container. This will make it easier to mix into your milkshake. Mash and stir with a spoon. Before you shake up your milkshake to get a nice frothy texture, take a spoon and give your ingredients a good mix. By mashing and stirring with a spoon you will distribute your ingredients evenly and soften the ice cream. Once you don't feel many clumps of ice cream, and have a consistent texture, you can stop stirring and mashing. Put the lid on your jar or shaker and shake it up. Shake your container well so that the milk, flavoring, and ice cream get blended together smoothly. Shake your container like you would when mixing a cocktail. Grab the top and bottom of your container and shake in an up and down motion. Shake your container for about 15 seconds. If you find your mix is still too solid, you can shake it again. Enjoy your milkshake. Once you've shaken up your container, remove the lid, grab a straw, and do a taste test. If your milkshake is too thin, add another scoop of ice cream. If too thick, pour in a bit more milk and give it another shake. Once you're satisfied, grab a straw or spoon and enjoy. Grab a large mixing bowl. Since you don't have a blender to whip your milkshake together, you'll need a large container that you can use to mix, and stir all of your ingredients in. Alternatively, you can use an electric mixer or food processor if you have those instead of a blender. If you don't have an electric mixer of any sort, a handheld whisk works just as well. Add your ice cream. Lighter ice creams will make your milkshake fluffier, while a thicker ice cream will make it creamier. If you're using a flavor that has chunks of candy in it, you may want to let it sit out a bit longer so the ice cream is easier to mix. To make your ice cream easier to scoop and mix, consider letting it sit at room temperature for 10 to 15 minutes, or heating in the microwave for about 20 seconds. If you are using frozen yogurt or sherbet, you don't have to let it sit as long because it will be softer. If you are adding fruit or chunks of candy, make sure you have cut or mashed those ingredients into small chunks. Add milk to the ice cream in your bowl. You want to have a ratio of about three parts ice cream to one part milk. Like your ice cream, the thicker the milk, the creamier your milkshake will be. Add any powder you may be using to your milk before mixing the milk into your bowl. It's easier to dissolve any powder in the milk first, rather than trying to do so once it's in your bowl. Use a bottle with a spherical whisk if you have one, or simply stir with a fork or spoon. Mix your ingredients together. You have several options for mixing your ingredients together depending on what consistency you want in your milkshake. If you are looking for something a bit chunkier, then you can use a spoon or masher. If you want something smoother, try whisking your mix with a hand whisk. If you have an electric mixer, you can mix your ingredients together like you would for cake batter. See if it's the right texture. Take a spoon and do a taste test to decide if you're satisfied with the consistency. You can add a little milk to thin it out, or add more ice cream to make it thicker. Pour your milkshake into a glass. It's best to pour as much of your shake into your glass as you can right away. This way you can enjoy your milkshake without it melting, thinning out, or becoming soupy. If you want your milkshake to be extra cold, store your glass in the freezer while you mix all your ingredients together. Plop a dollop of whipped cream on top if you want and grab a straw. You're finished! Now enjoy!	Grab a large enough tupperware container that has a lid, or a drink shaker. Scoop your ice cream into your container. Add milk. Add any other ingredients. Mash and stir with a spoon. Put the lid on your jar or shaker and shake it up. Enjoy your milkshake. Grab a large mixing bowl. Add your ice cream. Add milk to the ice cream in your bowl. Mix your ingredients together. See if it's the right texture. Pour your milkshake into a glass.
https://www.wikihow.pet/Treat-Feather-Picking-in-African-Grey-Parrots	How to Treat Feather Picking in African Grey Parrots	To treat feather picking in African grey parrots, consider switching your bird over to pellets that are specially formulated for African grey parrots since an unbalanced diet can cause feather picking. Also, try giving your parrot new toys and spending more time with it every day since boredom can cause African grey parrots to pick their feathers. If the picking continues, take your bird to the vet since it could be a sign of an underlying health issue.	Take your parrot to the vet. If your bird is ill or in pain, then it may pick its feathers to cope. Birds don't understand how illness or pain work, so their instinct tells them to try to remove the cause of what's bothering them, which leads to plucking. The plucking can also be caused by hormones, which can be treated by the vet. The vet can check for bacterial infections, parasites, and heavy metal poisoning. Many owners wrongly assume that all feather plucking is a behavioral problem, but it can instead be an indication of an underlying medical issue, such as feather cysts, parasites, or chronic pain. Check your bird’s diet. Malnutrition can cause your bird to pick its feathers, and it can also lead to illness. Common deficiencies in bird diets include calcium, zinc, selenium, manganese, and magnesium. The malnutrition causes your bird's skin to become dry, flaky, and itchy, which causes the bird to pick its feathers. A common cause of malnutrition is selective feeding. Birds will eat only what they like, so owners may inadvertently allow their bird to eat too much of one food that doesn't supply them with necessary nutrients. Avoid malnutrition by feeding your bird specially-formulated pellets that are made for African grey parrots, which ensure that all nutrient needs are met. Pellets should make up 75% of the bird's diet, with leafy greens, vegetables and fruits making up 20-25%. Up to 5% of the bird's diet can be treats. Your bird could also have too much zinc. Your vet will be able to tell you if this is the case after testing for heavy metal poisoning. Even if your bird has a balanced diet, it may be allergic to certain foods, which could also result in malnutrition. If you suspect that's the case, talk to your vet about a suitable dietary change for your bird's allergy. Make sure your bird gets enough sun. Parrots love being in the light, and a parrot who is trapped in darkness will get depressed. Sunlight also helps your bird get the vitamin D it needs, which helps prevent malnutrition. Place your bird's cage in an area that allows your bird to get plenty of sunshine. Don't place the bird's cage in direct sunlight, which can cause overheating. Give your bird a few new toys. Bored birds can turn to plucking, so make sure that your bird is adequately stimulated. Even if your bird already has great toys, African greys are incredibly intelligent and can quickly get bored with their old toys. Keep your bird interested with new and novel toys. Be sure to include interactive toys that make your bird think. To avoid constantly buying new toys, keep your bird's toys in groups that you can rotate out. That way when the bird tires of the toys in its cage you can switch to a new set of toys. Feather plucking rarely occurs in wild birds because they are fully occupied foraging, flying, and socializing with other birds. The closer you can mimic this rich and engaging environment, the happier your bird will be. Unfortunately, feather plucking is habit-forming and can be difficult to stop once the behavior has become established. Discuss strategies with your vet if providing a more enriching environment isn't working. Bond with your bird. African grey parrots are social birds, so they need a relationship with you. Spend plenty of time every day with your bird. Talk to it, play with it, and let it sit with you. This will help your bird be happy and unstressed, which should help reduce feather picking. Check the size of your bird’s cage. Your bird needs room to spread its wings and move around. If your bird can't move freely and doesn't have adequate stimulation, then it will start to pick its feathers to have something to do. The cage should be at least 4 feet (1.2 meters) tall, 2 feet (.6 meters) wide, and 3 feet (.9 meters) long. Watch your bird so see if it can move properly. It should be able to spread its full wingspread and fly around. Give your bird several different perches of various sizes that allow it to move around and change things up. Choose materials like natural wood, cloth, and non-toxic plastic. Include one cement perch for your bird to smooth its claws. While perches should be easy for the bird to grip, including a range of sizes will keep your bird interested. A good size range for African grey perches is 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 centimeters) in diameter. Give your bird daily baths. Your bird needs regular baths with room temperature water to keep it clean and healthy. You should also take it into the bathroom while you shower so that it is exposed to warm, moist air that will help keep its skin from being too dry. Include a bird bath in your bird's cage, or try spritzing it using a spray bottle. Choose a non-toxic plastic bowl that is about the size of its water dish. See if your bird likes to walk around in a sink or shallow bowl. Get your bird a shower perch if you plan to bring it into the shower. Some birds even like to sit under running, room-temperature water. Always stay with your bird when it's taking its bath. You could also expose your bird to moist air using a humidifier. Make sure your bird gets enough sleep. African grey parrots need 8-12 hours of sleep each night, and if they don't get their sleep, they can start plucking their feathers to deal with the stress. If your bird struggles to stay asleep, you can try covering its cage. Follow a sunset to sunrise sleep schedule, which will mimic how the bird lives in the wild. If you need to allow your bird to stay up past sunset to allow for playtime after you get home from work, then let it sleep later into the morning. Keep your bird's cage covered or use room-darkening drapes if it needs to sleep after the sun has risen. Parrots will awaken with the sun regardless of how much sleep they've had. Avoid allowing others to be alone with your bird. African greys are easily stressed when exposed to new people, and you don't know what a person might do if left alone with your bird. Always stay with your bird if a new person is around, and don't give someone a chance to potentially abuse, frighten, or pester your bird. Show no reaction to your bird’s plucking. Giving extra positive attention to your bird in response to plucking can cause more plucking because your bird likes the attention. Getting angry with your bird could stress the bird, which could cause more plucking. Instead, keep your demeanor normal as you try to help your bird. Avoid using an e-collar or a cone to discourage the behavior unless directed to do so by your vet. These devices prevent the bird from getting to its feathers but do not remove the urge to pluck; as a result, your bird may experiences an additional level of stress and frustration. Notice if your bird won’t perch on your hand. A stressed or ill bird might avoid allowing you to touch it and may not come to you. It's especially concerning if your bird has previously perched on you because it shows a change in the bird's behavior. If your bird won't perch on your hand, look for reasons it might be stressed, such as lack of stimulation, changes in its environment or routine, or lack of bonding time. Try giving your bird a new toy. Spend time with your bird, even if it won't come to you. Sit with your bird and talk gently to it. Avoid sudden changes to your bird's environment. Pay attention if your bird lunges for you. African greys are nervous birds, and a stressed bird might lunge or act aggressively. If your bird is being aggressive to you or to its cage and toys, then it might be stressed, which could lead to feather plucking. Speak calmly to your bird. Take it to the vet to make sure that it's not aggressive due to illness. Take action if your bird retreats to the corner of its cage. If your bird is skittish, then it may be ill or stressed. African greys are social, so a bird that refuses your companionship, especially if you're bonded, needs attention. Notice if your bird has meltdowns. Another early symptom of an ill or stressed bird is getting upset over little things, which can even include getting new toys. Get your bird checked out by a vet, and then check the bird's environment to make sure that it's safe and happy. Check for poor lighting, noise, and things that might frighten your bird.	Take your parrot to the vet. Check your bird’s diet. Make sure your bird gets enough sun. Give your bird a few new toys. Bond with your bird. Check the size of your bird’s cage. Give your bird daily baths. Make sure your bird gets enough sleep. Avoid allowing others to be alone with your bird. Show no reaction to your bird’s plucking. Notice if your bird won’t perch on your hand. Pay attention if your bird lunges for you. Take action if your bird retreats to the corner of its cage. Notice if your bird has meltdowns.
https://www.wikihow.com/Make-a-Grappling-Hook	How to Make a Grappling Hook	To make a grappling hook, start by grouping 3 metal hooks together and pointing the hooks in different directions with equal space between them. Next, bind the hooks together by squirting no-nail tack between the hooks and then tie all 3 hooks together tightly with strong flexi-wire. Then, pass a rope through the holes in the hooks and tie a figure-8 knot and a stop knot at the end of the rope. Finally, pull the rope tight, attach it to your belt, and climb!	Craft a makeshift grappling hook from wrenches and twine. This is a quick design that you can complete using materials from your garage or with a quick trip to a hardware store. Be aware that the twine will likely not hold any serious weight, so avoid using this hook to climb. It may be best suited for snagging objects. You could use this to pull a bicycle from a river or dislodge a frisbee from a tree. You will need: A length of thick twine 2 wrenches of roughly the same size 5-7 minutes Get two wrenches and twine. If you use rope, your grappling hook will hold more weight, but you may have trouble tying the rope around the wrenches. Form a cross with the wrenches. Make sure that it looks like an "X" to ensure that it will hook when you throw it. Tie a long piece of twine to the cross you have made with the wrenches. Make sure everything is tight, and then you have a grappling hook! Consider making a grappling hook by tying together metal hooks. This method is cheap, simple, and sturdy. Make sure to test the grappling hook before you try to climb anything high. You will need: Three metal hooks with a hole at the bottom (which you can find in most building supply shops) 1-2 feet of thin but strong flexi-wire A long stretch of rope (climbing rope will be the most sturdy) 500ml of no-nail super tack (also found in building supply shops). Point the hooks in different directions with equal space between them. Bind the hooks together. Squirt the no-nail tack from the top of the three hooks between the hooks, and tie all three hooks tightly together with the strong flexi-wire. The strength of the grappling hook depends on the hooks being held together very well. Pass the rope through the holes in the hooks. Make sure that the hooks all face the same direction. Tie a figure-eight knot and a stop knot at the end of the rope to keep the rope from slipping back through the holes. Pull the rope tight. You should have the three hooks tied together with the wire and the rope coming down in a single line. Test the rope out, attach it to your belt or relay, and climb! Consider making a grappling hook from steel rods. This can cost you as little as $5. While the idea of a grapple is simple, the construction requires knowledge of metal working, forging and welding. The hooks must be capable of bearing at least your weight. You need to attach the hooks together such that whichever hook bites, it as strong as any other. You need to create a loop or ring to attach a rope that is also strong enough to bear your weight. You will need the following: 3 feet of 5/16" round steel rod ($5.00 Canadian at Home Depot) Hacksaw Clamps or magnets (to secure the pieces while welding) A welding mask, gloves and appropriate clothing Welder A grinder of some sort A length of sturdy rope Eye protection Cut a 9" length of 5/16" round steel rod. Bend the bottom 4" of the shaft into a loop. Make two 90° bends about 1.5" apart, forming a "U" shape on one end of the shaft. Use a vice to "pinch" the two straight legs of the "U" together, forming a loop. Finally, bend the shaft at about a 45° angle so that it is centered over the loop. Weld the end of the loop to the shaft. Make the hooks. Cut a 5" piece of 5/16" round steel rod, and use the grinder to sharpen one end of the 5" piece into a dull point. Bend the piece at a 50 degree angle 1.5" away from the non-sharpened end. Repeat this step until you have 4 hooks. Weld the hooks. Place the first 2 hooks on either side of the shaft, near the top. Weld them in place. Then flip the grappling hook over and make matching welds on the other side. Use a magnet or clamp the secure the 3rd hook to the shaft perpendicular to the 2 hooks you welded previously. Weld it in place on both the left and right sides of the hook. Flip the grappling hook over. Use the magnet to secure the 4th and final hook to the shaft perpendicular to the first 2 hooks you welded. The hook should also be in line with the hook you welded just before this one (the 3rd hook). Weld it in place on both the left and right sides of the hook. Clean up the grappling hook. If you want, you can spray paint it. Hold the rope about a foot up from the hook. Swing it in a large circle around your body and release it at the appropriate angle to reach your desired grapple point. There are other potential launching methods, such as a harpoon gun and a bow, but then you have to compete with the inertia of the rope throwing off the trajectory. Consider knotting the rope. It takes tremendous strength to haul your body weight, kit and equipment up a rope. One possible solution is to tie knots at various intervals in the rope for grip. Keep in mind that the thicker the rope, the easier it will be to climb, but the harder to throw. Another solution would be sliding handles that use a friction device that slides up the rope and grips once weight is applied through a stirrup (foot hold) on a length of rope.	Craft a makeshift grappling hook from wrenches and twine. Get two wrenches and twine. Form a cross with the wrenches. Tie a long piece of twine to the cross you have made with the wrenches. Make sure everything is tight, and then you have a grappling hook! Consider making a grappling hook by tying together metal hooks. Point the hooks in different directions with equal space between them. Bind the hooks together. Pass the rope through the holes in the hooks. Pull the rope tight. Consider making a grappling hook from steel rods. Cut a 9" length of 5/16" round steel rod. Bend the bottom 4" of the shaft into a loop. Weld the end of the loop to the shaft. Make the hooks. Bend the piece at a 50 degree angle 1.5" away from the non-sharpened end. Weld the hooks. Use a magnet or clamp the secure the 3rd hook to the shaft perpendicular to the 2 hooks you welded previously. Flip the grappling hook over. Clean up the grappling hook. Hold the rope about a foot up from the hook. Consider knotting the rope.
https://www.wikihow.com/Lower-Prolactin-Levels	How to Lower Prolactin Levels	To lower your prolactin levels, visit your doctor to get tested and to discuss your options. If you're on medication, your doctor may change some of your prescriptions, since some common drugs can increase your Prolactin levels. At home, try adding 300 milligrams of vitamin E to your daily supplements, which may stop your pituitary gland from releasing so much prolactin. Make sure you get 7-8 hours of sleep as well, which helps your body balance its hormone levels.	Check your prescription medications. Some prescription medications can cause you to have increased prolactin levels. If you're on one of these medications, it could be the cause of your high prolactin levels. Dopamine, a brain chemical, blocks some secretion of prolactin. When you're on medications that block or lower your dopamine levels, your prolactin levels may rise. Some antipsychotics can cause this effect, such as risperidone, molindone, trifluoperazine, and haloperidol, and some antidepressants can, too. Metoclopramide, which is prescribed for severe nausea and acid reflux, may also increase the secretion of prolactin. A few medications that treat high blood pressure could also be the culprit, though it happens less frequently with these medications, which include reserpine, verapamil, and alpha-methyldopa. Talk to your doctor about stopping the medication or switching it out. You don't want to go off a medication abruptly, especially one like an antipsychotic, which can have severe withdrawal effects. Therefore, if you want to get off one of these medications, discuss the issue with your doctor first. They may be able to switch you to another medication that doesn't have this effect. Discuss aripiprazole for use as an antipsychotic medication. This medication has been shown to reduce prolactin levels when taken in place of other antipsychotics or when taken in addition to other antipsychotics. Ask your doctor if taking this medication is a possibility for you. Antipsychotics have the potential to raise prolactin since it inhibits the dopamine that causes prolactin to secrete from the pituitary gland. For long-term antipsychotic treatment, you may develop a tolerance so your prolactin levels return to normal, but they may stay above normal levels. This medication can cause side effects like dizziness, nervousness, headaches, stomach issues, weight gain, and pain in your joints. It can also make you feel unsteady on your feet. Expect a blood test to check your prolactin levels. If you think your prolactin levels are too high, your doctor is going to want to check them. The best way to do that is to take some blood. Your doctor will likely order a fasting blood test for you, meaning you can't eat during the 8 hours before the test. Your doctor may order this test if you have the following symptoms: irregular periods or no periods, infertility, erection problems, low sex drive, and breast engorgement. For non-pregnant women, normal levels are between 5 and 40 ng/dL (106 to 850 mIU/L) and between 80 and 400 ng/dL (1,700 to 8,500 mIU/L) if you're pregnant. For men, normal is less than 20 ng/dL (425 mIU/L). Your doctor may run other blood tests to make sure you don't have a condition like kidney disease or another issue causing high prolactin levels. Tell your doctor if you've had a recent chest injury. Chest trauma can temporarily increase your prolactin levels, so tell your doctor if you've experienced any chest injuries in the past few weeks. Hives or shingles on your chest can also cause this symptom. Usually, your prolactin levels will go back down on their own after a chest injury. Ask to be tested for hypothyroidism. Hypothyroidism is when your thyroid isn't producing enough of the thyroid hormone. If you have this condition, it can cause your prolactin levels to rise. Your doctor will order a blood test to diagnose this condition. Typically, if your doctor notices high prolactin levels, they will check for this condition, but it doesn't hurt to ask. This condition is usually treated with medications like levothyroxine. Discuss if an injection of vitamin B6 is appropriate. Just a single dose of this vitamin may be enough to lower your prolactin levels, particularly if they are only temporarily raised. However, it's best if given in an IV or IM, so talk to your doctor. A typical dose is 300 milligrams. The medical staff will likely either inject the medication into a large muscle (such as your thigh or buttocks) or they will insert a needle into a vein to inject it. Consider a regimen of 5 grams (0.18 oz) of powdered ashwagandha root a day. This supplement, also known as Withania somnifera , may help lower your prolactin levels. In fact, it may even increase male fertility and sex drive in men and women. Before starting any supplement, talk to your doctor. You may experience nausea, stomach problems, or headaches with this medication. Add 300 milligrams of vitamin E to your daily supplements. Just increasing your vitamin E may lower your prolactin levels, particularly if your levels are high. It may stop your pituitary gland from releasing so much prolactin. Talk to your doctor before starting a supplement if you're suffering from a condition like kidney disease or hemodialysis. Side effects are not common with vitamin E. However, if you take high doses, you may experience stomach issues, tiredness, weakness, rash, headaches, blurred vision, increased creatine in the urine, and gonadal (testicles) dysfunction. Increase your zinc intake with a supplement. A zinc supplement may also help lower your prolactin levels. Try starting with 25 milligrams per day and increasing as needed to 40 milligrams per day. Have your prolactin levels rechecked to see if you need to increase the dose. Ask your doctor about proper dosing for supplements like zinc. Side effects can include headaches, indigestion, nausea, diarrhea, and vomiting. If you take more than 40 milligrams per day for a long time, it can cause copper deficiency. Also, avoid taking the intranasal variety (through your nose), as it can cause you to lose your sense of smell. Get 7-8 hours of high-quality sleep. Not getting enough sleep can throw your system off balance, including the production of hormones like prolactin. Go to bed at a reasonable time so you get a full night's rest. Sleep alone could help decrease your prolactin levels. Watch for symptoms of prolactinoma. A prolactinoma is a type of tumor that attaches to the pituitary gland. In almost all cases, the tumor is benign, not cancerous. However, it can cause very high levels of prolactin in the body. In women, the symptoms typically are changes in menstruation, reduced sex drive, and decreased milk production if you're breastfeeding. In men and women who don't menstruate, it's more difficult to diagnose, but you may have a low libido (due to decreased testosterone). You may also experience breast growth. If the tumor is left unchecked, you may experience premature aging, headaches, or even vision loss. Take the medication cabergoline to treat your tumor. This medication is the first one that doctors will go to, as it has the fewest side effects and you only need to take it twice a week. It will most likely shrink the benign tumor and bring your prolactin levels down. This medication can cause nausea and dizziness. The other typical medication is bromocriptine, which can also cause nausea and dizziness. With this medication, your doctor will likely have you increase your dose gradually to lessen the side effects. This medication is cheaper, but you'll need to take it 2-3 times per day. You may need to take these medications indefinitely, though once the tumor has shrunk and your prolactin levels decrease, you may be able to come off the medication. However, you should not stop either of these medications abruptly. Follow your doctor's tapering instructions. Ask about surgery if medications are not working for you. The next treatment for this type of tumor is usually surgery. A surgeon will go in and remove the tumor so that it can't cause issues like increased prolactin levels. If you have another type of pituitary gland tumor instead of a prolactinoma, this may be your doctor's first choice of treatment. Discuss whether radiation is necessary. Radiation used to be a common treatment for this type of tumor, whether it's benign or malignant. However, it's less common today, and it's typically a last resort. It can also result in the opposite problem, where your pituitary gland doesn't produce enough hormones. However, in some cases, radiation may be the only option, if you don't respond to the medication and your tumor can't be operated on safely. In that case, you may need this treatment. Sometimes, you may only need one treatment, while other tumors may take more treatments. It depends on the size and type of your tumor. The most common side effects is hypopituitarism, where your pituitary gland doesn't produce enough hormones. Very rare side effects can include damage to nearby brain tissue, including lesions or nerve damage.	Check your prescription medications. Talk to your doctor about stopping the medication or switching it out. Discuss aripiprazole for use as an antipsychotic medication. Expect a blood test to check your prolactin levels. Tell your doctor if you've had a recent chest injury. Ask to be tested for hypothyroidism. Discuss if an injection of vitamin B6 is appropriate. Consider a regimen of 5 grams (0.18 oz) of powdered ashwagandha root a day. Add 300 milligrams of vitamin E to your daily supplements. Increase your zinc intake with a supplement. Get 7-8 hours of high-quality sleep. Watch for symptoms of prolactinoma. Take the medication cabergoline to treat your tumor. Ask about surgery if medications are not working for you. Discuss whether radiation is necessary.
https://www.wikihow.com/Snail-Farm	How to Snail Farm	To snail farm, start by choosing your snails and picking a wind-free, moist location for their habitat, such as a trench. Next, use corrugated metal, plastic, or chicken wire to create a fence around the perimeter of the farm. Then, put down moist, loamy soil and place the snails into their new environment. Feed your snails lettuce, cabbage, weeds, vegetable peelings, and fruit and be sure to add a tray of fresh water for them to drink. For the healthiest habitat, don't forget to change the soil every 3 months!	Decide which species of snail you want to farm. When creating a snail farm, you'll have to use a single species of snail. The smaller helix pomatia and helix aspersa can lay hundreds of eggs and can survive in seasonal climates. The larger achatina achatina and archchatina marginata can only live in climates that are warm all year round. Research common snail types in your region and choose the one you'd like to farm. The helix aspersa is a popular snail to farm in Europe. Make sure that you have the proper permits for the snail farm. There are different local and federal regulations regarding snail farms depending on where you live. For instance, in the USA, it's illegal to transport most snail types over state lines without a special permit. Other countries will have their own restrictions and laws about starting a snail farm. Check on your country's website for agriculture to determine what forms and permits you may need to start a snail farm. In some countries certain snail species are deemed as invasive and are thus illegal to own. The lissachatina fulica or the large African land snail is illegal in the USA. Purchase your snails online or find snails in your garden. If you want to start a snail farm, you'll need to get snails. Look online to find another snail farm near you, where you can purchase adult snails. It's always best to be able to examine the snails before you buy them so that you know they are healthy. Choose fully grown snails. When you first start your snail farm, you'll want to get healthy, fully grown snails that will lay eggs and help populate your farm. Look on the shell of the snail. If there is a lip, they are a fully grown snail. The lip will look like rolled or curled shell near the entrance of the shell. Choose snails that fit in their shell, as this is an indication that they are healthy. Get enough snails for the size of your farm. If you are farming smaller snails, there's a max of 6 snails per square meter. If raising larger snails, you'll need at least 1 square meter for each snail. Getting more snails than this will lead to overpopulation and an unhealthy snail population. If you get more snails they will lay more eggs. Pick a wind-free moist location for your pen. Places where the soil doesn't drain well after rain or that are exposed to high winds are not good for snails. Pick a location that has ample space and won't be exposed to the harsh elements. A trench is the perfect location for a snail pen because it's not exposed to high-winds. Being on the bottom of a hill or surrounded by trees will also protect your farm. Choose a fencing material. You can purchase snail pen fencing material online or from most hardware stores. Popular fencing materials include corrugated metal or plastic, chicken wire, or a woven material. The purpose of the pen is to keep the snails in. Choose a material within your budget, and get enough of it so you can build a 5x5 meter (16.4x16.4) pen. You can make the perimeter of your fence larger if you want to house more snails. Larger snail farms can be anywhere from 1000 square meters (3280.84 square feet) to 10,000 square meters (32808.4 square feet) in size. Create the snail pen perimeter by driving posts into the ground. You can purchase wooden fence posts at the same store that you bought your fencing. Space each post 1.25 meters (four feet) away from each other so that there are 5 posts on each side of your pen. This is the perimeter that you'll be using as your snail pen, and will be what you wrap your fencing material around. Dig a .4 meter (1.3 foot) deep trench around the posts. Use a shovel to dig the trench outside of each of the wooden posts around the perimeter of your snail farm. This will house the bottom of your fencing material. Wrap and staple the wire mesh around your posts. Take your fencing material and wrap it tightly around the wooden posts. Put the bottom of the fence into the trench that you dug earlier. This will ensure that the snails can't escape and that larger predators won't be able to dig under the pen. Cover the trench with dirt. Use a shovel and fill the trench in with dirt. Once the trench is covered, make sure to pat down the soil in the area so that the fence stays under the ground. Your snail pen is now ready. Lay down moist, loamy soil. Snails prefer damp, loamy soil with low acidity and a lot of organic matter. Go to a home and gardening store and get one that has a pH of 7 or lower to encourage good snail health. Pour the soil into the snail habitat, giving the snails ample room to move around. Clay is unsuitable for snails because it becomes too hard when wet. Sand is also not ideal for snails because of its low water-holding capacity. Choose a well-ventilated container if starting a small, personal farm. Snails will eat their way through cardboard, so cardboard boxes don't make the best containers. Instead, create a habitat inside of a glass or plastic bin. An aquarium will also work. Make sure that habitat is covered so that the snails can't escape, and be sure to punch ventilation holes into the lid of the habitat so that the snails can breathe. Add snail food to your habitat. Snails eat a variety of different foods. You can feed your snails things like lettuce, cabbage, weeds, vegetable peelings, and slices of fruit. Put the food inside of the habitat and remove it once it starts to turn or grow mold. In addition, leave out a tray of distilled water so that your snails can drink. You can also grow leafy vegetables in your snail farm to feed your snails. Other plants that snails like include turnip, hybrid turnip, and dandelion clover. Tap water sometimes contains chemicals that would harm the snails, so remember to boil and cool the water if you decide to use water from your tap. Change the soil every three months. The chemical composition of your soil will change over time. Also, your soil will likely have a buildup of feces and mucus from your snails. For this reason, you need to replace all of the soil every three months to keep your snail's healthy. Extract the snails from their habitat and transfer them to a temporary habitat before using a shovel to replace the old soil with fresh, loamy soil. Water your snail farm if it doesn't rain. Use a spray bottle to spray down the leaves and ground of your snail farm. Water your farm towards the evening or in the morning when it's cooler out. If you water them when it's hot out, they may be attracted by the water and get killed by the sun. If you are snail farming outside and it hasn't rained in a couple of days, you'll have to add water to your snail farm. If it is very dry, water your farm every day. Do not flood your snail farm. Pick the weeds that grow in your pen. Weeds and wild grass can disrupt the growth of leafy greens that you may have planted in your snail farm. Carefully pull the weeds and grass around the perimeter and inside of your snail farm's pen.	Decide which species of snail you want to farm. Make sure that you have the proper permits for the snail farm. Purchase your snails online or find snails in your garden. Choose fully grown snails. Get enough snails for the size of your farm. Pick a wind-free moist location for your pen. Choose a fencing material. Create the snail pen perimeter by driving posts into the ground. Dig a .4 meter (1.3 foot) deep trench around the posts. Wrap and staple the wire mesh around your posts. Cover the trench with dirt. Lay down moist, loamy soil. Choose a well-ventilated container if starting a small, personal farm. Add snail food to your habitat. Change the soil every three months. Water your snail farm if it doesn't rain. Pick the weeds that grow in your pen.
https://www.wikihow.com/Bet-on-Football	How to Bet on Football	To bet on football, place a straight bet if you just want to bet on who's going to win, which usually has odds of 10/11. Alternatively, you can try spread betting, which is when you bet that a certain team will win by a predetermined number of points. You can also try placing an over under bet, which means you'll try to predict the total number of points scored by both teams. If the number of points is over a predetermined number, you win money if you place an over bet.	Bet in a reputable casino. The safest way to bet on football is generally to go to a casino that offers sports betting. Public, well-known casinos operate in cooperation with the government, so their gambling opportunities must be licensed and above-board. However, sports betting is not offered at the majority of the country's casinos outside Nevada , so check the casino's website first before you make the journey. In the U.S., Las Vegas is generally the best place to make sports bets in casinos. Sports betting is legal in the city and there are many different casinos to choose from. Reno, Nevada also offers numerous sports betting opportunities. As of 2015, Atlantic City, New Jersey has not legalized sports betting. However, recent legalization efforts may cause this to change in the future. Bet in an informal pool. If you can't bet in a legal casino, the rest of your options fall into the realm of semi-legality. Some of these options are safer than others. For example, workplace pools almost never attract the attention of the law. You can feel reasonably safe about putting $20 or so into a small office pool during the playoffs. This is because these kinds of betting opportunities aren't usually set up to make money for a bookkeeper or betting agency. In other words, since the participants in the pool are playing for each others' money and no one is taking a "cut" of the bets, authorities almost always tend to turn a blind eye. Bet online. Online betting sites are technically illegal on a federal level under the 2006 Unlawful Internet Gambling Enforcement Act (UIGEA). However, this is typically only applied to the operators of the site. In practice, people who use online betting sites are virtually never prosecuted. Some states (like New Jersey) have even taken steps to legalize types of online gambling. If you go this route, pick a popular, well-known site with a reputation for quality service. Sites like sportsbook.ag and bovada.lv are good choices. Don't pick an obscure site with suspect credentials — it can be difficult or impossible to get your money back if you fall for an online betting scam. See our article on spotting scams for more information. Make a bet with a bookmaker only after careful consideration. Making an informal, illegal bet with a bookmaker (or "bookie") is probably the least wise option when it comes to sports betting. While it's unlikely that you personally will be prosecuted, bookmaking is illegal in most parts of the U.S., so this option is forcing you to associate with criminal enterprises. In addition, since this is illegal, you won't have any recourse if your money is stolen or you are scammed. Always research the teams playing. When your money is on the line, don't follow your gut. Instead, use your head. There's no way to be absolutely certain who will win a given football game, even when one team is heavily favored. However, taking a careful look at the two teams' statistics will give you a better idea of who is likely to win. For NFL teams, basic stats are available for free from the league's official site. Below are just a few stats to consider: Total offense (yards per game). The team that scores more points wins, so a strong offense is a good indicator of success. Total defense (yards per game). Strong defenses shouldn't be ignored — under the right circumstances, they can shut down powerful offenses. Rushing/passing stats (yards per game). Knowing both teams' offensive and defensive strengths can help you predict how each match-up will play out. Never bet more than you can afford to lose. This is true of all gambling in general. No matter how sure you are about your bet, there is always a chance that you'll lose everything you wagered, so never bet money you won't be able to get by without. A good policy is to treat gambling as something to do only with your "extra" money. In other words, once all your bills are paid off, you've budgeted for your living expenses, and your financial obligations are met, you can use a small amount of whatever's left over for betting. When in doubt, bet for the strong quarterback. Over time, minor changes in NFL rules can have major effects on the way games are played. The current rule set favors quarterbacks by making it harder for the defense to sack or put pressure on them without drawing a penalty. Because of this, teams with good quarterbacks currently have a slightly greater advantage than usual. On the other hand, a bad quarterback can hamstring teams that have good stats otherwise. In the 2013 NFL season, 10 the 11 teams that threw the most interceptions failed to make the playoffs. Consider your team's schedule. If you're banking on one team to do well during a given season, be sure to note the teams they will be playing (as well as when and where ). A favorable schedule can help a team get into the playoffs. A difficult one can make it very challenging even for a strong team. For instance, if your team is playing their main division rivals during an away game, they'll lack the home field advantage that might have made the game more of a sure thing on a different schedule. On the other hand, if their schedule is packed with weak teams, they may easily cruise to the playoffs. Be wary of banking on repeat performances. There isn't any science to this, but teams that do very well during one season tend to do somewhat worse the following season. This can be due to many factors, including fatigue and a shorter off-season. If your favorite team went all the way to the Super Bowl last season, you may want to think twice about making a prop bet on them appearing again, even if you feel that they deserve it. Even the strongest teams can be vulnerable after a great season. When in doubt, make a straight bet. For football, if a bet isn't otherwise labeled, it is usually offered at odds of 10/11. In other words, if you bet $11 dollars and win, you will make back your money plus $10 for a total of $21. This is called a "straight bet" and is very common in sports betting. Learn the basics of spread betting. Another common type of bet has to do with something called the "spread" or "point spread." In this type of betting, one team is favored to win the game by a certain number of points. If you bet on the favored team, it must win by this predetermined number of points (the spread). If it doesn't clear this hurdle, your bet loses, even if the team itself won. Conversely, a bet placed for the team predicted to lose will win if the other team can't make the minimum score (or "cover the spread"). For example, let's say that Team A is favored to win by 6 points over Team B. You place a bet on Team A, but they only win by 3 points. In this case, you lose your money even though Team A won the game. If you had bet on Team B, you would have won money even though Team B lost the game. Learn the basics of moneyline betting. Another way that gamblers express odds is with a system called "moneyline" betting. In this system, each team is given either a positive or a negative number (like -500 or +350). A negative number means that you must wager that much money to earn $100 if the team wins. A positive number means that wagering $100 will earn you that much money if the team wins. In other words, teams with big negative numbers are heavily favored to win. Teams with big positive numbers are considered unlikely to win. For example, let's say that Team A is rated at -300 and Team B is rated at $150. This means that we would have to bet $300 on Team A to win $100 if Team A wins. On the other hand, betting $100 on Team B will earn us $150 if Team B wins. In this case, it's often best to "fade" — make a small bet on the team with the positive number, or Team B. Team A has low reward potential. Learn the basics of over/under bets. In this form of betting, it doesn't matter which team wins. Instead, you're trying to predict the total number of points scored by both teams. If the number of points is over a predetermined number, you win money if you place an "over" bet (and vice versa for "under"). For example, let's say that a game between Team A and Team B has an over/under rating of 50. This means that the teams have to score a total of 50 points or more for the "over" bet to win. Otherwise, the "under" bet wins.	Bet in a reputable casino. Bet in an informal pool. Bet online. Make a bet with a bookmaker only after careful consideration. Always research the teams playing. Never bet more than you can afford to lose. When in doubt, bet for the strong quarterback. Consider your team's schedule. Be wary of banking on repeat performances. When in doubt, make a straight bet. Learn the basics of spread betting. Learn the basics of moneyline betting. Learn the basics of over/under bets.
https://www.wikihow.com/Play-Musical-Chairs	How to Play Musical Chairs	To play musical chairs, start by arranging the chairs in a circle, making sure to have 1 less chair than the number of players. Next, have the players walk around the chairs when the music starts, then try to find a seat when the music stops. Have the person that's left standing leave the game, and remove 1 chair before playing the next round. Continue playing rounds and removing chairs until there's only 2 players and 1 chair left. The person who sits in the chair in this round is the winner!	Choose music to play. Musical chairs is played by walking around chairs to music. When the music is turned off the players find a chair to sit down in. You want music that has a good beat for walking. Using upbeat, party music will create a festive environment encouraging the players to have fun. Make a playlist of songs or pick an entire album of party music to use because the game may last more than one song if you have lots of players. You need to have one person be in control of the music for each round of musical chairs that you play. This person will be responsible for starting and stopping the music. Find a space to play. Musical chairs is a game that needs a lot of space in order to play it. Make sure you have a wide open space in a room or outside to easily play the game. You need enough space to have chairs set up in a circle and room for the players to walk around the outside of them. Set up chairs in a circle. To play musical chairs, you need to have chairs or seats set up in a circle. You should start with one less chair than the amount of players playing. So for example, if there are 5 people playing, you should have 4 chairs in a circle. Set up the chairs with the seat of the chair facing the outside of the circle. If you don't have chairs, you can use stools, carpet squares, or pillows instead. Walk around the chairs when the music starts. As soon as the music starts playing, the players walk in a circle around the chairs. You can choose whether to go clockwise or counterclockwise, but all players should go the same direction following the person in front of them. Players should walk at a comfortable pace around the chairs without slowing down. Find a chair to sit in when the music stops. After some time, the teacher, or host should stop the music. When the music stops, each player needs to find a chair to sit down in. There will be one player left without a chair to sit in because there is one less chair than players. Leave the game if you’re left without a chair. The player that didn't find a chair to sit it is out of the game. They can help run the music, or just watch the fun and wait to see who ends up as the winner. Remove one more chair and play again. After the person who didn't find a chair leaves the game, you need to remove one chair to play another round. Start another round by playing the music and having the players walk around the chairs again. Continue playing rounds until there is one person left. After each round of musical chairs, remove a chair, keeping 1 less chair the players in the circle. The last round will be 2 players and one chair. The player who sits in the chair this round is the winner. Play musical chair ownership. One fun variation on musical chairs is to play it by having players find specific chairs to sit in. Before playing, have the players use a nametag to put their name on a chair. Like traditional musical chairs, they walk around the chairs when the music plays, but when it stops, the players have to try and find the chair with their name on it to sit in. The last person to find and sit in their chair is out. Remove their chair and start again to play the next round. For this version you will have the same number of chairs as players each round. Add in new rules to each round. You can make regular musical chairs more interesting by adding different rules to each round you play. For example, you might have the person who gets out become the music player after round 1, and then after round 2 the person who doesn't find a chair gets to call out a color and anyone wearing it has to be out. This is a fun way to have a game go more quickly when you have a lot of players. You can come up with lots of different rules to try out. Travel around the chair in a different way each round. You can make musical chairs even more fun by having the players travel around the chairs in a different fashion each round. Having the players skip or crawl around the chairs will add another element of skill to the game. Make a list of different ways the players can travel around the chairs, and you can pick a different one each round. Run Skip Hop on one foot Dance Gallop Walk on your tippy toes	Choose music to play. Find a space to play. Set up chairs in a circle. Walk around the chairs when the music starts. Find a chair to sit in when the music stops. Leave the game if you’re left without a chair. Remove one more chair and play again. Continue playing rounds until there is one person left. Play musical chair ownership. Add in new rules to each round. Travel around the chair in a different way each round.
https://www.wikihow.com/Kill-Weeds-With-Vinegar	How to Kill Weeds With Vinegar	To kill weeds with vinegar, start by filling a spray bottle most of the way full with white vinegar. Add in a few teaspoons of dish soap, which will help the vinegar stick to the weeds. Mix this together by gently shaking the bottle and then wait until it is hot outside to go spray your weeds because the sun will help to dry the weeds out. Then, spray an even coat of vinegar onto the weeds you'd like to kill, being careful to avoid spraying any of your other plants. Wait 24 hours and if the weeds don't look like they are dying, you can repeat this treatment until the weeds are gone.	Buy white vinegar. Go to your local grocery store and buy a bottle of basic vinegar, typically a 5% concentration of acetic acid. The best bargain is probably to buy a one gallon jug unless you only have a few weeds. If you are killing a lot of weeds, you may need to buy more than one gallon, but one gallon will cover a large area. The acid in vinegar is what kills the weeds. White vinegar is most recommended, and probably the cheapest, but you can use apple cider vinegar as well. Mix the vinegar with 2 teaspoons (9.9 ml) dish soap. A bit of dish soap will help the spray stick to the weeds. You should add 2 teaspoons (9.9 ml) of dish soap per 1 gallon (3.8 l) of vinegar. Stir the mixture in a bowl or bucket. Pour the mixture into a garden sprayer. Choosing a pump sprayer with a hose and long nozzle will make spraying large areas of weeds easier. Fill the sprayer up with the vinegar and dish soap mixture, or put as much in the sprayer as you'll need. Another option is to pour the mixture into an empty spray bottle. You can buy an empty bottle or you can use a bottle that used to contain window cleaner or another gentle household cleaner. Make sure to rinse it out well if you use a bottle that had other liquid in it. If you are only killing a few weeds, or covering a small area, you can poke four or five holes in the cap of the vinegar bottle and use the bottle to douse the weeds. If you're using horticultural vinegar, which has an acidity of 30%, dilute it with water. If you're using regular white vinegar, you won't need to dilute it. Choose a sunny day to spray weeds. The acetic acid in vinegar dries weeds out, so applying vinegar on a day when the weeds will get at least a few hours of direct sunlight increases the drying power of the vinegar. Spray in the morning so the weeds can get lots of sun. If it rains unexpectedly shortly after you spray the weeds, you'll most likely have to apply a second round of vinegar. In this case, sunny means hot as well, ideally in the range of 70+ degrees. Spray directly onto the weeds. Using the pump sprayer, spray bottle, or vinegar bottle with holes, thoroughly douse the weeds you want to kill. Cover the leaves with vinegar, but also spray down around the roots. You don't need to soak them so they are dripping wet but spray an even coat. Wait around 24 hours and check the weeds. If you aren't satisfied, you can spray the weeds a second time. Avoid spraying vinegar on desirable plants. Vinegar kills crops and flowers as well as weeds, so take care any time you are spraying weeds around good plants. Vinegar is not always a good option if you are spraying weeds in a garden, flower bed, or in your yard. Vinegar shouldn't soak into the soil and kill other plants unless it makes direct contact with them. Clean the sprayer out after you finish. Vinegar can corrode your sprayer if you let it sit for a long time. Carefully rinse your sprayer out after every use. Dump the excess vinegar out and then fill the sprayer with water. Be sure to pump and spray the water to clean out the hose and nozzle. Buy 20% concentrated horticultural vinegar. Go to a garden store or home improvement store and ask if they have concentrated vinegar products designed for garden use. When using stronger vinegar, it is advised to take extra caution such as wearing gloves and goggles. Most weeds will die with regular vinegar, so use that first and only use horticultural vinegar if regular doesn't work. Be careful not to get any on your skin as it can cause burns because of the higher concentration of acetic acid. Add dish soap. Mix some dish soap into your sprayer or spray bottle. Using around a teaspoon (5 ml) per quart (liter) of vinegar is a good amount. The dish soap will help the vinegar stick to the weeds and not run off. Gently stir the soap into the vinegar, but don't shake the bottle too much or the soap will get sudsy rather than mixing into the vinegar. It is not necessary to carefully measure out the dish soap. Squirt an amount that seems close to a teaspoon per quart. Add 2 cups (473 ml) of table salt to a gallon (3.8 L) of vinegar. Salt may not affect all weeds, but it can dry out some weeds faster than plain vinegar. You can add salt to the mixture that already has dish soap in it. Use cheap table salt rather than rock salt, Epsom salt, or sea salt. Salt tends to stay in the soil for a while and can have long-term effects on healthy plant life. If you are killing weeds in an area where you'll plant again, it is probably best to avoid the salt. On the other hand, if you are killing weeds in an area that you want to prevent future growth, salt can help achieve this. It is especially important to clean a sprayer in which you added salt because it will clog up the parts and can even corrode the sprayer.	Buy white vinegar. Mix the vinegar with 2 teaspoons (9.9 ml) dish soap. Pour the mixture into a garden sprayer. Choose a sunny day to spray weeds. Spray directly onto the weeds. Avoid spraying vinegar on desirable plants. Clean the sprayer out after you finish. Buy 20% concentrated horticultural vinegar. Add dish soap. Add 2 cups (473 ml) of table salt to a gallon (3.8 L) of vinegar.
https://www.wikihow.com/Write-a-Cover-Letter-for-a-Recruitment-Consultant	How to Write a Cover Letter for a Recruitment Consultant	To write a cover letter for a recruitment consultant, start by placing your name, title, and address in the top left corner. Next, include the date one line below that, and the recipient's name, title, and address one line below the date. Then, greet the person with the salutation “Dear” followed by their full name. In the body of the letter, state the position you're interested in, along with your relevant skills and interests. Close the letter by reinstating why you're a good choice, and sign the letter “Sincerely,” followed by your name.	Decide what kind of job you're looking for. Recruiters typically specialize in a particular job style or field, so you'll have to know what you're looking for before contacting one. If you're having trouble deciding on what you're looking for, keep the following in mind. What was your area of education? What are your past experiences? Have you had a job in the past that you enjoyed? Consider whether you intend this as a career or as a temporary job. You might be more willing to compromise over a temporary job than over a lifelong career. Investigate what kinds of jobs the recruiter usually matches with. When writing to a recruiter, you'll want to make sure that you're applying for jobs that you would be a fit for. For example, if you're looking for a job in sales, you wouldn't write to a recruiter who typically matches people for custodial positions. Recruiters will typically say so if they recruit for certain jobs and positions, so make sure you read their website or posting carefully. Put your own resume together. You should never send a cover letter to a recruiter without including your resume. Since the two go hand in hand, you'll have to prepare your resume at the same time as you're working on your cover letter. It helps to do the resume first. This will focus your thoughts on your experience and give you points to elaborate on in your cover letter. Read Make a Resume for tips on putting together a strong resume. Look over your resume. Your resume is a concise statement of your experiences and typically doesn't contain much description. Your cover letter is an opportunity to elaborate on certain points from your resume. Before writing your letter, carefully review your resume. Highlight the points you'd like to make, and if anything needs further explanation. That way, you can make your cover letter and resume complement each other, instead of just restating each other. Learn the format for a business letter. All cover letters should be considered formal business letters. This applies whether you're sending an email or a hard copy letter. Learn this format and use it for all your cover letters. Become familiar with the following format and be sure to use it when writing your letter. Place your name, title, and address on the top left of the paper. Place the date below this. Put the person's name, title, and address below this. Address the person appropriately. Start with "Dear Mr." or "Dear Mrs." Have 1-inch margins around the paper and use single spacing. Don't indent, just use a double space in between paragraphs. Use an easy-to-read font such as Times New Roman or Arial, in 12-point font. End with "Sincerely," then leave 4 lines so you can manually sign your name. Below this, type your name and title. Address the recipient properly. Remember that this is a formal business letter. You should address the recipient as Mr. or Mrs. Also use "Dear" as a greeting; "Hi" or "Hello" are not appropriate for a business letter. If you're unaware of the recipient's gender, then use the person's full name after "Dear." State why you're writing the letter. Cover letters are "cut to the chase" kinds of letters. A long greeting is unnecessary. The first paragraph is for announcing your purpose, so you should state right from the top why you're writing this letter. The opening sentence should read something like: "I am writing with interest in being matched with a job in sales and customer service." Introduce yourself to the recipient. After the first sentence, within the first paragraph, you should give a very brief introduction of yourself. This shouldn't go longer than two sentences; just give the recipient an idea of who you are. A good introduction would be: "I am a recent graduate of Rutgers University, where I majored in management." State the job you're interested in. Since the recruitment consultant will match you with a job based on your cover letter and resume, you should state if there is a specific job or company you're interested in being matched with. That way, the recruiter will know what you're looking for and be better equipped to help you find a job. Recruiters may or may not advertise the companies that they work with. If the recruiter you're writing to has made this information public, mention the specific companies you're interested in working for. This demonstrates that you're a serious candidate who has done research into the job you want. State your skills and interests. After letting the recruiter know what kind of job you're looking for, you have to demonstrate why you would be qualified for that particular job. In a new paragraph mention all of your relevant experience, and why that would make you good at the job you're seeking. Remember that this section shouldn't just restate your resume; the recruiter already has your resume. What it should do is elaborate on some points that don't get fully covered on your resume. For example, you may have done an internship for a semester. This is only one line on your resume, but you can elaborate on how it gave you invaluable skills and experience for the job you're seeking. You can also bring up experience that isn't on your resume. For example, tutoring your neighbor might not be suitable for a resume, but you can mention how this experience gave you a sense of responsibility, which will help you in the job you're seeking. State how your skills and interests are related to the job you want. Remember, the point of this letter is to show the recruiter that you're a good fit for the job you want. Therefore it's not enough to just state your skills. You also have to show why these skills and experiences will make you a good job candidate. Look at the transferable skills you've attained. For example, if you're looking for a job in sales, you might not think your stock worker position at a retail store gave you much experience. But if you dealt with customers, that means you've gained customer service experience. These skills easily transfer over to dealing with potential clients for your company. If you've never had a job, things you've done in school can also be applicable. You might have given a classroom presentation. That means you have public speaking experience. Other classroom experience that gives you job skills are the ability to meet deadlines, multitask, and work under pressure. Restate your enthusiasm in the conclusion. After stating all of your relevant experience, start a concluding paragraph. In this paragraph, you should reiterate your job preference and that you are a qualified candidate. Also thank the recipient for his or her time in considering your application. Your closing should sound something like this: "As you can see from my qualifications, I am an ideal candidate for a position in sales and marketing. I greatly look forward to hearing from you and speaking further. Thank you very much for your time and consideration." Proofread your letter. Never send in a cover letter without proofreading it first. Any spelling or grammar mistakes will hurt your application and make you look unprofessional. Always go through your letter at least 2 more times before sending it in. If possible, have someone else read it as well. A fresh set of eyes could catch mistakes that you missed. Send your resume with your cover letter. Don't forget to attach your resume when you send your cover letter. If you don't send your resume, it's almost certain that the recruiter won't answer your cover letter or refer you for a position.	Decide what kind of job you're looking for. Investigate what kinds of jobs the recruiter usually matches with. Put your own resume together. Look over your resume. Learn the format for a business letter. Address the recipient properly. State why you're writing the letter. Introduce yourself to the recipient. State the job you're interested in. State your skills and interests. State how your skills and interests are related to the job you want. Restate your enthusiasm in the conclusion. Proofread your letter. Send your resume with your cover letter.
https://www.wikihow.com/Use-the-NuvaRing	How to Use the NuvaRing	If you want to use the NuvaRing for birth control, you first need to get a prescription from your doctor. Once you have your ring, you should insert it during the first 5 days of your period so it can protect you right away. To insert your NuvaRing, wash your hands and then pinch the sides of the ring so it's flat between your thumb and index finger. While in a comfortable position, push the folded ring into your vagina. It doesn't have to be in a particular position to work, but if it feels uncomfortable, you may need to slide it further in. Exactly 3 weeks after you've inserted your NuvaRing, you should remove it to have your menstruation. Then, after 7 more days, you can insert the next ring.	Do not use NuvaRing if you have certain health conditions. Discuss your complete medical history with your doctor when deciding whether to use NuvaRing. NuvaRing is not safe for women who: Smoke and are over 35. Are at a high risk for blood clots, strokes, or heart attacks. Have uncontrolled high blood pressure. Have diabetes and kidney, eye, nerve or blood vessel damage. Get migraines. (However, some women who get migraines are still candidates for the NuvaRing.) Have liver disease. Have liver tumors. Have unexplained vaginal bleeding. Have a history of breast cancer or other hormone sensitive cancers. Are pregnant or could be pregnant. Do not depend on NuvaRing to protect you from HIV (AIDS) or other sexually transmitted diseases. It will not prevent disease transmission during vaginal, anal, or oral sex. To reduce your chances of contracting a sexually transmitted disease, you can: Abstain from all sexual activity. Be in a monogamous relationship with someone who is uninfected. Use an additional method of protection, such as a latex male or female condom. Tell your doctor about all medications you are on. This includes herbal supplements and home remedies. This is important because some medications can interfere with the ring's effectiveness. These include: Rifampin, an antibiotic. Griseofulvin, an antifungal. Some HIV medications. Some anti-seizure medications. St. John's Wort. Get more information if you still have questions. It is important to be well informed before you make a decision. You can get more information by: Contacting your doctor. Reading more about the NuvaRing on trustworthy websites. Calling 1-877-NUVARING (1-877-688-2746). Get a prescription for NuvaRing from your doctor. If you haven't had a gynecological exam recently, your doctor will probably do a standard pelvic exam during which he or she will examine your vagina, cervix, ovaries, and uterus. The exam will only last a few minutes and the whole appointment will probably be less than an hour. You can do this at your local health clinic, a Planned Parenthood Clinic, or your university health center. You can then fill the prescription at a drug store or clinic. The rings are one-size-fits-all. Ask your doctor about whether NuvaRing is likely to fit with your lifestyle, budget, and birth control needs. (It does not protect against sexually transmitted diseases like HIV). If you have health concerns, are taking other medications, or are worried about side effects, discuss them with your doctor. It may cost up to $80 through Planned Parenthood. However, if you go through your doctor and you do not have insurance, then it may cost as much as $150 per month. Rings should be kept at room temperature and not exposed to direct sunlight. Do not use expired rings. Start the NuvaRing during the first five days of your period. This will enable the ring to protect you right away. If you start later in your cycle, you will need a backup method of birth control for the first seven days of using the ring. Condoms and spermicide can be used as backup methods with the ring. Cervical caps, diaphragms and sponges should not be used because they can be difficult to place correctly. Wait at least three weeks before starting the ring after having a vaginal birth. If you have a high risk of blood clots, you may need to wait longer. Ask your doctor what is best for you. Talk to your doctor before using it while breastfeeding. Some of the hormones may be transmitted to your baby through your milk. Choose a position that is comfortable for you. Inserting the NuvaRing is similar to inserting a tampon, so you will probably have the easiest time if you use the same position. You can do it while: Lying on your back in bed. This method may be best if you are nervous. Sitting on the toilet or a chair. Standing with one leg up, such as on the toilet seat. Some women find this method easiest when starting. Using an empty unused tampon applicator to insert the ring. You can remove a tampon from the applicator and then use the empty applicator to insert the NuvaRing. Prepare the NuvaRing. First wash your hands before you open the NuvaRing package. Opening it using the notches in the package. Tear gently because you will keep the foil. Keep the resealable foil packaging so you can use it to dispose of the ring when you are done with it. Pinch the sides of the ring flat between your thumb and index finger so that it makes a long loop. Now you are ready to insert it. Slide the folded ring into your vagina. Use your index finger to push it in. If it feels uncomfortable, you may not have inserted it far enough. It does not have to be in a particular position in order to work. You may be aware of it, or occasionally feel it if it moves a little bit, but it should not hurt. If you have pain, or cannot find it again in your vagina, call the doctor. Occasionally women have inserted it into their bladder. If you think you have done this, go to the emergency room. However, this is not common. Remove the NuvaRing after 3 weeks. You should remove it at the same time of the day that you inserted it and exactly 3 weeks later. When you do this, you should: First wash your hands. Be sure to thoroughly rinse your hands so that you don't introduce soap into your vagina. It is best to wash with a mild soap. Put your index finger into your vagina until you feel the edge of the NuvaRing. Stick your finger through the loop and carefully pull the loop out. Put the used ring into the resealable packaging that it came in and dispose of it in the trash. Do not flush it down the toilet or put it somewhere where children or pets may find it. After exactly seven days, insert the next ring. Do it at the same time of day that you removed the previous ring, even if you are still menstruating. Don’t panic if the ring slips out briefly. If you realize that the ring has come out, rinse it off and put it back. If the ring has been out for more than 48 hours, use a back up method of birth control for seven days. Don't use a cervical cap, diaphragm, or sponge as a backup method because the ring may prevent them from being positioned correctly. A condom or spermicide can be used as backup methods If you leave the ring in for more than a month, you will also need to use backup protection. After a month, the may not give you enough hormones to prevent pregnancy. This means you should use a backup method for seven days, even after you insert the new ring. Watch for side effects. Some women experience side effects that cause them to choose to switch to a different method of birth control. Women have reported: Irritation to the vagina or cervix. Headaches and migraines. Mood disturbances such as depression. Nausea. Vomiting. Vaginal discharge. Putting on weight. Breast pain, vaginal, or abdominal pain. Pain during menstruation. Pimples. Reduced sex drive. High blood sugar. High fat content in the blood. Darkened, blotchy skin. An allergic reaction such as hives. Changes in your period, like irregular bleeding or spotting. Call emergency responders if you develop severe complications from NuvaRing. These reactions are not common, but when they do occur, they may start suddenly and quickly become worse.These complications could include: Pain in your leg that doesn't stop. Difficulty breathing. Partial or complete blindness. Chest pain or pressure. Severe headache. Weakness or numbness in an arm or leg. Difficulty speaking. Yellow skin. Yellow eyes. Symptoms of Toxic Shock Syndrome, such as sudden, high fever, vomiting, diarrhea, a rash that looks like a sunburn, aching muscles, dizziness, fainting.	Do not use NuvaRing if you have certain health conditions. Do not depend on NuvaRing to protect you from HIV (AIDS) or other sexually transmitted diseases. Tell your doctor about all medications you are on. Get more information if you still have questions. Get a prescription for NuvaRing from your doctor. Start the NuvaRing during the first five days of your period. Choose a position that is comfortable for you. Prepare the NuvaRing. Slide the folded ring into your vagina. Remove the NuvaRing after 3 weeks. Don’t panic if the ring slips out briefly. Watch for side effects. Call emergency responders if you develop severe complications from NuvaRing.
https://www.wikihow.com/Fold-Underwear	How to Fold Underwear	To fold women's underwear, lay the underwear face-up with the waistband pointing away from you. Next, cross the sides of the waistband to the center so the underwear is folded in thirds, then fold the crotch up to the waistband. Alternately, to fold boxers take the right half of the boxers and fold them to the left so the outer seams are aligned. Next, rotate the boxers so the waistband is at your side, and fold the top edge to the bottom edge to create a long rectangle shape. Finally, bring the waistband to meet the bottom edge.	Lay the panties face-up. Place them on a flat work surface, like a countertop or the bed. Position the panties so that the waistband is pointing away from you. Smooth out any wrinkles with your hands. Fold the panties in thirds. Fold the left side toward the center, then fold the right side over the left. The folds are similar to those you'd use to fold a business letter into thirds. Smooth out the wrinkles. Fold the crotch up to the waistband. The bottom edge of the crotch and the top of the waistband should be aligned. Smooth out the wrinkles. Flip the panties so the waistband is showing. The panties are now folded and ready to stack in your underwear drawer. Lay the thong face-up. Place it on a flat work surface, such your bed or the counter in your laundry room. Straighten it out and position it so that the waistband is pointing away from you. Cross the sides of the waistband to the center. Bring the left side of the waistband to the center of the thong, then cross the right side of the waistband over it. The waistband will be folded into thirds. Fold the crotch up to the waistband. The bottom edge of the crotch and the top of the waistband should now be aligned. Flip the thong so the waistband is showing. The thong is now folded and ready to stack. Try storing your thongs stacked upright (crotch-side down) in a narrow box or drawer organizer to keep them neat. Lay the briefs face-up. Place them on a flat work surface, like a countertop or the bed. Position the briefs so that the waistband is pointing away from you. Smooth out any wrinkles with your hands. Fold the briefs in thirds. Fold the left side of toward the center, then fold the right side over the left. The folds are similar to those you'd use to fold a business letter into thirds. Smooth out the wrinkles. Fold the crotch up to the waistband. The bottom edge of the crotch and the top of the waistband should be aligned. Smooth out the wrinkles. Flip the briefs so that the waistband is showing. The briefs are now folded and ready to stack in your underwear drawer. Lay the boxers face-up. Place them on a flat work surface, like a countertop or the bed. Position the boxers so that the waistband is pointing away from you. Smooth out any wrinkles with your hands. Fold the boxers in half from left to right. Take the right half of the boxers and fold them to the left, so that the outer seams are aligned. Rotate the boxers 180 degrees. Now, the waistband is pointing to your left and the leg holes are pointing to your right. Fold the top edge to the bottom. This will create a long rectangle shape. Fold the boxers from left to right. Bring the waistband to meet the bottom edge. The boxers are now folded and ready to stack.	Lay the panties face-up. Fold the panties in thirds. Fold the crotch up to the waistband. Flip the panties so the waistband is showing. Lay the thong face-up. Cross the sides of the waistband to the center. Fold the crotch up to the waistband. Flip the thong so the waistband is showing. Lay the briefs face-up. Fold the briefs in thirds. Fold the crotch up to the waistband. Flip the briefs so that the waistband is showing. Lay the boxers face-up. Fold the boxers in half from left to right. Rotate the boxers 180 degrees. Fold the top edge to the bottom. Fold the boxers from left to right.
https://www.wikihow.com/Train-Border-Collies	How to Train Border Collies	One way to train border collies is by teaching them simple commands. Start with 15-minute intervals of learning simple commands such as “sit,” “lay down,” and “stay.” Firmly say the command one time, and guide the dog through the movement for the trick. When you're teaching the trick, be sure to use the same word for the command, and reward your pet for performing it correctly by giving it a treat or positive affirmation. Switch between different tricks to keep the dog interested, but repeat the tricks so it doesn't forget what it has learned!	Break the trick down. For instance, the command "stay" can be broken into a number of steps. The first step is to teach your dog to sit and not get up until you tell her to. Then, you can move on to staying for a short time. Next, move on to staying for a longer period. One trick you might want to teach your border collie is "down," since border collies like to herd anything they animal or person they can find. By teaching them this trick, you'll be able to control their behavior better when they start to herd, especially if you pair it with other commands such as "drop." Keep commands consistent. That is, always use the same word for the same behavior. Switching between "sit" and "sit down" can confuse your dog. Pick one, and stick to it. Border collies are also smart enough to learn whistle commands. Say the command once. Border collies will pick up on the command quickly, so just say it once and teach the behavior. If you say it multiple times, she may expect you to say it multiple times every time you give the command. Use a treat to encourage the behavior you want. For instance, if you want to teach a dog to sit, hold the treat an inch in front of her nose. Slowly move the treat above her head. This movement encourages her to sit. Don't forget to use the command in conjunction with the action. Once the dog sits, praise her and give her the retreat. Fade out the treats. Once the dog starts learning the trick, you can still guide the dog but take away the treat. Reward him with praise and petting. Instead of fading out the treats completely, you can use intermittent reinforcement. That is, only reward the dog with a treat at random times. That way, she will still do what you want with the hope of getting a treat, but she won't expect one every time. Border collies are smart enough to understand this process. Keep repeating the practice. Over time, keep repeating the command so that your dog will slowly learn what you want her to do. Limit your training periods to short intervals. Most dogs get bored easily, and it can be especially true with border collies, given their high intelligence. Don't let a training session go beyond 15 minutes. Change up your tricks. That is, don't try to teach the same trick for the whole 15 minutes. You can do as few as 5 repetitions trying to teach one trick or up to 15. Switch to another task after that. End happy. That is, end with a trick your dog knows how to do. That way, you can praise her up and down, and she'll be willing to try learning tricks with you again sometime. Understand your border collie's instincts. Border collies are herding dogs, but they are also chasing dogs. Therefore, games and sports like catching discs are perfect for border collies. In fact, disc catching and throwing is not just a backyard sport, as you can compete with your dogs in local and national competitions. Provide food in the disc. If your border collie associates the disc with food, he'll think it's okay to hold it in its mouth. Try providing dinner in the disc for several nights in a row. Tease him with the disc. Shake the disc back and forth in play. Your border collie will likely latch on to it and want to play. Tell him to drop it. First let him play with the disc, saying "good boy!" Then tell him to "drop it." Try to pull it back from him. Don't let him play tug-of-war. If he doesn't want to give it up, just stop talking and praising. In fact, ignore him completely. Because he wants your attention, he'll likely drop it. Praise when he does. Continue working on the "drop it" cue. Start with rolling. Your pup will naturally chase after the disc if you roll it away from you. Ask him to come back, and tell him to "drop it." He'll soon catch on that this game is fun, and he'll play along. Throw the disc. When throwing, toss it away from your border collie. He will chase it down or even catch it in the air. You don't want to toss it directly at your border collie, as you could hit him and it takes some of the fun out of chasing it down. Let him play with it if he catches it, but go grab it yourself if he doesn't, as your teaching him to catch it and playing with the disc is a reward. Call him back to you. Once your border collie catches the disc, call him back to you, and tell him to drop it for you. Train in various styles. For instance, one event in disc events for dogs is throwing and catching at various distances. You'll need to practice your throws, and you'll need to teach your dog to catch at these various distances. Generally, in these events, you gradually increase your distance in a timed period. Start young. As soon as you have your border collie in your house, you can start training it. Your puppy is absorbing information whether you are actively trying to train him or not, so you might as well start teaching good habits young. Keep your puppy in a confined space. You can use a crate or a leash. You can also try a small room. That way, you can keep an eye on the puppy, and if he starts to go the bathroom, you can take him outside. Also, dogs don't like going to the bathroom in the same place they sleep, so your puppy is less likely to go in a relatively small space. When picking out a crate, check to see if it is large enough. Your dog should be able to stand up in it and turn around. Stop using the crate for a time if the dog decides to go the bathroom in it, as that defeats the purpose. He may not be ready for house training, or he may have other issues you need to solve, such as taking him out more often. Take your puppy out often. Your 2-month-old puppy can hold it for about 2 hours, while a 3-month-old can hold it for about 3 hours, and so on. However, when you are trying to house train your puppy, make sure to take it out at least every 1 to 2 hours to go to the bathroom. Some experts recommend waiting until 3 months to start training your puppy, when he has more control over his bladder. The best way is use a leash and lead your puppy to the same spot in the yard every time. One of the benefits of using the same spot is your puppy will smell her scent there and want to go in the same place. Also, begin using a verbal cue, such as "potty time" each time, so your dog learns to associate those words with going to the bathroom. If your dog doesn't go to the bathroom when you take him outside, put him back in the confined space, and try again in 30 minutes. Reward the behavior you want. In this case, directly after the puppy finishes going to the bathroom (while you are still outside), praise the puppy and offer her a treat. Take the puppy outside if she starts going to the bathroom. Start by making a noise to startle the pup a bit and get her to stop going. Then, take out to her spot in the yard. If she keeps going there, follow with a reward. Keep on a schedule. Of course, you need to take your puppy out on schedule. However, you also need to feed him on schedule, as that will lead to more consistent bathroom times. You'll need to feed your dog about 4 times a day, so spread the feeding times out evenly over the day. Be consistent. If you're not consistent with providing and taking away rewards, your dog will be confused about what you want. Don't try negative reinforcement. For instance, pushing the dog's face in an accident or getting angry will only make the situation worse. Your dog may learn to be afraid of you, rather than what you want--to go to the bathroom outside. Give as little attention as possible to the problem when he has an accident because even negative attention is attention to a dog. Be patient. It can take up to half a year to fully house train your dog. You may get frustrated at all the accidents, but you will be rewarded in the end with a dog who knows when to go to the bathroom. Allow your puppy more range. If your dog seems to have potty training down, you can give him more freedom to roam around the house. However, you should still try to keep him out of areas that you really don't want him to use the bathroom in. Watch for the stance. If your border collie lowers her head and front legs, as well as her tail, she is getting into her herding stance. This stance is part of her natural instinct for herding. If you see her drop into this stance, it's because she wants to herd whatever it is she's concentrating on, from cats to cars. Give your border collie plenty of exercise. Border collies need a great deal of stimulation, so be sure to give your dog plenty of exercise to keep her happy. Learn the difference between your border collie's growls. A border collie usually has two types of growls, one serious and one play. You need to learn the difference so you don't upset your dog when she's being serious. Listen for play growls when she's playing tug-of-war, and learn to differentiate the sound from her more serious growl. Learning these two growls will also help if you choose to train your border collie on sheep, as you'll be able to tell when she is growling at the sheep in earnest. Let your dog follow her instincts. Your border collie was bred to help out shepherds by herding animals. That means that she wants a job to do. If you can give her a space to herd, that's great. If you don't have room for other animals, you may consider recreational herding, which is a form of dog sport. Other "jobs" you can give your border collie involve providing her with a digging hole (out of the way) or allowing her to "herd" cats under your direction. Use her bad behaviors, such as digging holes in the yard or chasing cats, and turn them into something controlled.	Break the trick down. Keep commands consistent. Say the command once. Use a treat to encourage the behavior you want. Fade out the treats. Keep repeating the practice. Limit your training periods to short intervals. Change up your tricks. End happy. Understand your border collie's instincts. Provide food in the disc. Tease him with the disc. Tell him to drop it. Start with rolling. Throw the disc. Call him back to you. Train in various styles. Start young. Keep your puppy in a confined space. Take your puppy out often. Reward the behavior you want. Take the puppy outside if she starts going to the bathroom. Keep on a schedule. Be consistent. Don't try negative reinforcement. Be patient. Allow your puppy more range. Watch for the stance. Give your border collie plenty of exercise. Learn the difference between your border collie's growls. Let your dog follow her instincts.
https://www.wikihow.com/Groom-a-Dog-That-Bites	How to Groom a Dog That Bites	To groom a dog that bites, keep each grooming session between 5 and 10 minutes to avoid increasing its stress levels. Additionally, give your dog tasty treats while you're working on it to help it associate grooming with positive experiences. You can also turn on some quiet music or let your dog look out of the window to help it relax it during the rooming session. If your dog growls, avoid yelling or punishing it, since this will likely reinforce the bad behavior.	Keep grooming sessions short. Long grooming sessions can increase a dog's stress, fear, or pain, causing it to bite. Make your dog's grooming sessions short—maybe just 5 to 10 minutes. Don't worry if you don't finish all the grooming. You can always come back to it later. If you'd rather do the grooming all at once, give your dog breaks during the grooming session. When you let your dog take a break, let it come back to you when it's ready. Offer tasty treats. When your dog is behaving well during the grooming session, give it a tasty treat. The treat will help your dog associate grooming with something positive. When your dog recognizes that grooming is a good thing, it won't feel the need to bite. Give your dog a treat that you'll use only for grooming. Redirect your dog’s attention. If your dog is focused on everything it doesn't like about being groomed (nails trimmed, ears cleaned), it may respond by biting. Turning on some soothing music or letting your dog look out the window will allow your dog to focus on something positive and relaxing. You could also talk to your dog throughout the grooming session. Use a soothing voice to put your dog more at ease. Do not punish your dog when it growls. A growl is a dog's warning signal that it's about to bite or attack. If you punish your dog when it growls, you're taking away its warning signal. Without that warning signal, your dog will bite suddenly, putting you in danger. Rather than punish your dog, stop the grooming session completely or let your dog take a break. Punishing a dog does not improve its behavior. Talk with your vet. A muzzle will protect you if your dog tries to bite while being groomed. It won't, however, calm your dog down or help your dog enjoy being groomed. In fact, your dog may become even more difficult to groom if you use the muzzle incorrectly. Before purchasing a muzzle, talk with your vet. Because many types of muzzles are available, you'll need your vet's expertise to decide which muzzle to choose and learn how to use it safely. Use the muzzle as a last resort. Try other methods of keeping your dog calm before using the muzzle. Select a comfortable muzzle. Mesh or fabric muzzles are commonly used for grooming. However, because they don't allow a dog to eat, pant, or drink, they should be used for short periods of time only. A plastic basket muzzle can also be used. Your dog would be able to eat, pant, and drink comfortably with a plastic basket muzzle on. Whichever muzzle type you choose, ensure that it fits your dog comfortably, but snugly. You don't want it coming off if your dog tries to bite. The strap around the neck should fit snugly. If you choose a basket muzzle, make sure the basket area allows enough room for your dog to eat, pant, and drink. The muzzle's strap around the neck should fit like your dog's collar. Get your dog comfortable with wearing the muzzle. Your dog isn't going to be thrilled about wearing a muzzle. However, if it becomes comfortable with it, and gets rewarded while wearing it, you'll feel much more protected during the grooming process. Here are some tips to get your dog comfortable with the muzzle: In the beginning, reward your dog when it looks at the muzzle. Make the muzzle enticing by putting a tasty treat like peanut butter in the nose part of the muzzle. When you put the muzzle on, leave it on for just a few seconds at first. Then, work up to longer periods of time. Always reward your dog when it has the muzzle on so it associates the muzzle with something positive. Use the muzzle during grooming. Even though your dog will be comfortable with wearing the muzzle, it won't want to wear it indefinitely. If you're using a mesh muzzle, put it on only when you think your dog will bite, such as during a nail trim. For a plastic basket muzzle, put it on right before you begin grooming and take it off as soon as you finish. If your dog is wearing a basket muzzle, give your dog treats while you groom it. If it's wearing a mesh or fabric muzzle, reward your dog as soon as you remove the muzzle. Get your dog comfortable with being touched. Some dogs bite while being groomed because they don't like certain areas, like their feet, being touched. That bite says 'Don't touch me there!'. To get your dog more comfortable with being touched in sensitive areas: Always be gentle and slow when you touch your dog. It will need to know it can trust you and your touch. Watch your body language when you touch sensitive areas. If your dog tenses or growls, move your hand back towards a non-sensitive spot, like its back. Reward your dog when it doesn't react negatively to being touched in sensitive areas. Acclimate your dog to grooming tools. Grooming tools (scissors, loud hair dryers, toothbrushes) can be bewildering and scary to a dog. If your dog isn't used to the grooming tools, it may bite in self-defense. Before the next grooming session, work with your dog to slowly get it more comfortable with grooming tools. Here are some tips on doing that: Introduce each grooming tool in a non-threatening way, such as by casually placing it on the table. Reward your dog each time it looks at or sniffs the tool. Use the tool on your dog for a few seconds. For example, if it's a brush, do one gentle sweep down your dog's back and put the brush away. Use the tool for longer periods of time, rewarding your dog each time it doesn't get scared. Address painful medical conditions. Your dog is usually standing up when it's being groomed. If your dog has arthritis or other joint problems, standing up could be very painful. Your dog may bite because it's in pain. Your dog's pain will need to be under control before the next grooming session. Take your dog to your vet. They can diagnose the condition and prescribe a pain medication to relieve the pain. Use natural calming aids. A calm, relaxed dog will be much less likely to bite while being groomed. Fortunately, several calming aids are available for dogs. For example, you can put a Thundershirt® on your dog to calm it down. Collars with calming pheromones (chemical signals) are also available. Rescue Remedy, which is a commercial product containing flower extracts, and lavender are also good calming aids for dogs. Calming aids are available at pet stores, online, and in natural food stores. Talk with your vet before using a calming aid on your dog. Depending on how much your dog detests grooming, it may take a few tries (or more) before the calming aid starts working.	Keep grooming sessions short. Offer tasty treats. Redirect your dog’s attention. Do not punish your dog when it growls. Talk with your vet. Select a comfortable muzzle. Get your dog comfortable with wearing the muzzle. Use the muzzle during grooming. Get your dog comfortable with being touched. Acclimate your dog to grooming tools. Address painful medical conditions. Use natural calming aids.
https://www.wikihow.com/Apply-for-Unemployment-in-Illinois	How to Apply for Unemployment in Illinois	Fortunately, applying for unemployment in Illinois is a relatively easy and straightforward process. To qualify for unemployment benefits, you'll need to have been paid at least 1,600 dollars in wages in the last year, have been paid for at least 2 quarters, and be unemployed through no fault of your own. This means if you quit your job or you were fired, you won't be eligible for unemployment benefits. You'll need to apply with the Illinois Department of Employment Security on their website, by phone, or in person. You may need to fill out a questionnaire or go to an interview to answer further questions. You'll likely be asked to register with the employment service too, which will help you find a new job.	Check if you're eligible. Not all unemployed workers qualify for unemployment benefits in Illinois. Check that you meet the following requirements: You're unemployed through no fault of your own. Typically, this means you were laid off for economic reasons. You weren't fired and you didn't quit. However, you might qualify if you quit because of sexual harassment, domestic violence, or another reason. You were paid at least $1,600 in wages in your base year. Generally, you should check your pay for the past five quarters and count only the wages paid during the first four of those quarters. Quarters are January 1-March 31, April 1-June 30, July 1-September 30, and October 1-December 31. You were paid wages in more than one quarter. At least $440 must have been paid in a different quarter. Gather required information. You must supply the Illinois Department of Employment Security (IDES) with certain information. Collect this information ahead of time: Your Social Security Number. Your driver's license or state ID. The contact information for job you've worked for the past 18 months, as well as dates of employment and the reasons for separation. Your wage records, such as W-2 or pay stubs. Any amount you earned during the week you are filing for benefits. Your Alien Registration Number, if you aren't a citizen. Apply online. Online is the preferred method of applying. Visit the IDES website. You will need to create a username and password here: https://benefits.ides.illinois.gov/File4UI/Benefits/profile/createRegistrationStart.do. Provide all requested information. File by phone. You may also file for unemployment benefits by calling IDES at 800-244-5631. Call between 8:30 am and 5:00 pm, Monday through Friday. Hearing impaired applicants should call 866-322-8357. Visit an office to file. You may also file at any IDES office. Remember to take your Social Security card and a second form of ID, such as your driver's license or state ID card. You can find your nearest IDES office here: http://www.ides.illinois.gov/Pages/Office_Locator.aspx. Enter your zip code. Select your method of payment. You can receive your benefits by direct deposit or on a debit card. If you choose direct deposit, the benefit amount will be deposited within two business days. Debit card is the default option, which you'll receive unless you select direct deposit. The card will be mailed to you, and benefits will be loaded after two business days. Call KeyBank Customer Service at 866-295-2955 if you lose your card. Register with the employment service. Most applicants will need to register. Based on your answers when you apply, you may be prompted to visit www.IllinoisJobLink.com and upload at least one resume to the website. You may also register at an IDES office, if that's easier for you. Participate in an interview, if necessary. IDES might require that you have a telephone interview. In some situations, you will simply fill out a questionnaire and mail it back in. Only a handful of people will be called into the IDES office for an interview. You'll have to interview if your employer protests your application for unemployment benefits, e.g., you quit because of harassment. Receive your UI Finding. IDES will send you this information after your claim has been filed. Review it to make sure the information contained in it is correct, and contact IDES if anything is wrong. The form should contain the following information: Your certification date. The wages each employer paid you over the past year, broken out by quarter. The dates your benefits begin and end. How much you qualify for in weekly benefits. Your maximum benefit balance. Check what day you should certify. Requesting benefits is called certifying. After you apply, you'll receive a call day for certifying benefits. If you don't receive this information, then contact IDES. Certify your benefits. You need to certify every two weeks for the weeks that have just ended. You can certify either online or through Tele-Serve. To certify online, visit this website: http://www.ides.illinois.gov/Pages/Certify_Weekly_Benefits.aspx. Click on “Certify for Benefits” and sign in using your username and password. Certification is available Monday through Friday, 5:00 am to 7:30 pm. To reach Tele-Serve, call 312-338-4337. Actively look for work. To keep receiving benefits, you must actively search for work and be available for work. IDES might contact you and ask where you've been searching and your prospects for getting hired. Keep detailed records of where you apply and the dates. Not everyone is required to submit this information, but you want it handy in case you do.	Check if you're eligible. Gather required information. Apply online. File by phone. Visit an office to file. Select your method of payment. Register with the employment service. Participate in an interview, if necessary. Receive your UI Finding. Check what day you should certify. Certify your benefits. Actively look for work.
https://www.wikihow.life/Mop-a-Floor	How to Mop a Floor	Before you start mopping, clear the area of any furniture items and sweep or vacuum the floor thoroughly. When you're ready to start, soak a string mop in a solution made of warm water and a cleaning product like bleach or dish soap. Then, take your mop out of the solution and wipe down the floor in 4 to 6 inch sections. Once you've cleaned the floor, wring your mop out and run it over each section 3 to 4 times to suck up the dirty water.	Mop no more than once a week. If your floors get particularly dirty thanks to children, pets, or lots of foot traffic, you may need to mop them every week. However, for most houses, try to mop your hardwood floors around twice a month. Mopping too often can create a sticky floor residue that traps in dirt and debris. Clear the area of furniture. Before mopping, remove any tables, chairs, throw rugs, and similar objects from the area you intend to clean. You do not need to move large furniture items like couches or bookshelves unless you plan to mop under or behind them. If you need to clean any of these items, do so before you move them. That way, if dust or debris falls on the floor, you can clean it up before you start mopping. Avoid dragging furniture like tables and chairs so you don't scratch up the floor. If you have roommates, tell them what area you'll be mopping so they know to stay away for a bit. If you have any animals, move them to a separate room until you're completely finished. or vacuum the floor before mopping. Sweep Most mops do a poor job of picking up crumbs, hair, and other forms of solid debris. As such, you'll need to use a broom, hardwood floor vacuum, or handheld vacuum to clean up the floor before mopping it. Solid debris can leave scratches on the floor if you fail to remove it before mopping. Mix warm water and a standard cleaning product. Grab a bucket and pour in enough water to completely submerge your mop head. Then, mix in a small amount of dish soap, apple cider vinegar, bleach, ammonia, or a similar cleaning product. As a general rule, use no more than ⁄ 2 c (120 ml) of cleaning product per 1 US gal (3.8 L) of water. Before using a specific cleaning product, check its label to make sure it's suitable for your type of floor. Though not all do, check your cleaning product's container to see if it lists a recommended dilution ratio. Dip your mop into the cleaning solution. Place your mop in the bucket and let it soak up the cleaning solution. If your mop is particularly stiff, it may need to soak for a few minutes to loosen up. You can purchase string mops at most big-box and cleaning supply stores. Lift the mop and let the excess water drip off. Once you've given it plenty of time to soak, lift your mop and hold it above the bucket. Mops often absorb way more water than they need, so hold your mop up for 2 to 3 seconds to let excess liquid fall back into the bucket. If you'd prefer, you can wring your mop out to remove the excess water. Wring out as much water as possible for hardwood floors. Any excess water can damage the wood. Mop your floor in small sections. In order to get as much grime up as you can, focus on a single 4 to 6 in (10 to 15 cm) section at a time. This will allow you to cover as much of the floor with cleaning solution as possible. For polyurethaned hardwood floors, move the mop with the grain of the wood. For textured floors, move the mop in small figure 8 patterns. Work your way toward a door. This will ensure that you're not stepping on parts of the floor you've already cleaned. If you still end up stepping on a wet area, run the mop back over it to clean up your tracks. In narrow stretches like corridors and hallways, mop the sides first and the center of the floor last. Wring the mop out when you’re done cleaning. Once you've mopped the floor thoroughly, hold your mop over the cleaning bucket and squeeze the mop head with your hands. Keep squeezing until the mop has little to no water left in it. Some mops and buckets come with an integrated wringing tool that you can use instead of your hands. Run your mop over the floor to wipe up dirty water. Run your mop over each cleaned section 3 to 4 times. If you run the mop over more times than this, you'll simply start spreading the dirty water around. Between each section, wring out your mop to get rid of the absorbed water. You may need to repeat this process multiple times to completely dry the area. Dampen your mop’s cleaning pad with water. Grab a fresh cloth cleaning pad that's large enough to fit on your mop. Then, rinse the pad with warm water to dampen it. If you accidentally soak the pad, wring it out to remove excess water. If you're using a Swiffer Sweeper or similar product, purchase pre-dampened cleaning pads instead. Attach the pad to your mop handle. Place your pad on the floor with the fibrous side facing down. Then, press the tip of your mop handle to the exposed side of the pad until the 2 latch onto each other. For Swiffer WetJets and similar products, you can attach the pad by pressing it to the mop handle with your fingers. Spray your floor with a cleaning solution. Grab a spray bottle and fill it with a solution made of warm water and a cleaning product like dish soap, bleach, ammonia, or apple cider vinegar. Then, lightly spray the area of the floor you want to clean. Unless the back of their container states otherwise, put in 1 to 2 capfuls of cleaning product for every 16 to 20 fl oz (470 to 590 ml) of water. Check the back of your chosen cleaning product's container to make sure it's suitable for your floor. Rub the mop along the floor. Press your mop onto the floor and scrub it using simple back and forth motions. Plan to go over each spot multiple times to clean up as much grime as possible. If your floor starts to streak, switch to a figure 8 pattern. It's easier to work your way towards a door, that way you don't have to step over any areas you've mopped. Change your mop pad as necessary. Unlike with traditional string mops, you'll need to replace your cloth mop's pad multiple times during the cleaning process. You'll know it's time for a new pad when your current 1 starts to leave behind dirt and other forms of residue. If you're using a non-disposable pad, you can simply remove your current mop pad, rinse it with warm water, and reattach it to your mop. Clean and put away your mopping supplies. If you used a cloth mop, remove your cleaning pad and either throw it away or wash it in hot water with detergent. If you used a traditional string mop, dump your dirty water into a toilet and hang your mop from a hook so it can dry. Though not required, it's a good idea to rinse a string mop with clean water and wring it thoroughly before hanging it up. Let the mopped area dry. When you're finished cleaning, give the floor between 30 minutes and 1 hour to air dry. If you'd like, you can open up the room's doors and windows to speed up the drying process. If your floor starts to streak, soak up the remaining water using fresh towels. Replace any furnishings you removed from the area. Once the floor dries completely, replace any objects you removed earlier. If necessary, clean the bottoms of your chairs, tables, and similar furniture items with a wet paper towel to avoid tracking in dirt and dust. Replace the objects as carefully as possible to avoid scuffing or scratching the floor.	Mop no more than once a week. Clear the area of furniture. or vacuum the floor before mopping. Mix warm water and a standard cleaning product. Dip your mop into the cleaning solution. Lift the mop and let the excess water drip off. Mop your floor in small sections. Work your way toward a door. Wring the mop out when you’re done cleaning. Run your mop over the floor to wipe up dirty water. Dampen your mop’s cleaning pad with water. Attach the pad to your mop handle. Spray your floor with a cleaning solution. Rub the mop along the floor. Change your mop pad as necessary. Clean and put away your mopping supplies. Let the mopped area dry. Replace any furnishings you removed from the area.
https://www.wikihow.com/Measure-a-Straight-Line-Distance-Using-a-Topo-Map	How to Measure a Straight Line Distance Using a Topo Map	You can measure a straight line distance on a topo map by using a piece of scrap paper and the bar scale on the map. First, place your paper on the map and mark points A and B on it where you want to measure. Then, hold your paper against the bar scale in the corner of the map. Align point B with the nearest whole number on the scale so that point A will be behind 0. On the left side of 0 will be a smaller scale to help you work out the exact distance. Count the distance between 0 and A to give you the smaller scale number. Finally, add the smaller scale number to your point B number to get your final measurement. For example, if point B aligned with 3 kilometers and point A aligned with 650 meters, your final measurement would be 3.65 kilometers.	Lay a piece of paper down on the map and mark it. Place a straight edge of a piece of paper onto your map. Line up the edge with both the first (“point A”) and second (“point B”) points you want to measure the distance between, then make a tick mark on the paper where each point is. Make sure your piece of paper is long enough to make your 2 tick marks. Note that this method works better for shorter line distances. Hold the edge of the paper still on the map and mark as accurately as possible where the paper lines up to your 2 points. Hold your measurement up to the bar scale. Locate the bar scale on your topographic map, which is typically found in the lower left. Place your piece of paper with the 2 tick marks against the bar scale to begin to read the distance indicated. Note first the ratio that's represented by the bar scale. This indicates that 1 unit of measurement on the map equals a certain number of units on the ground. For instance, a common topo map might have a 1:100,000 scale, where 1 centimeter equals 1 kilometer. The bar scale may also contain a primary scale, which shows whole units increasing from 0, left to right. There's also an extension scale, which shows fractions of a unit increasing from 0, right to left. Use this method if you have a short distance between your tick marks that easily fits within the given bar scale. Interpret the largest portion of distance from the primary scale. Align the tick mark on the right side of your paper edge with a whole number in the primary scale of the bar scale. The left tick mark should fall somewhere within the extension scale. Where you line up the right tick mark on the primary scale depends on what it takes to fit the left tick mark onto the extension scale. Keep the right tick mark on a whole number. The whole number the right tick mark is on indicates that your ground distance is at least X-many meters/kilometers/miles as the scale indicates for that number. You'll find the rest of the distance more precisely with the extension scale. Read the extension scale for the smaller numbers. Determine the rest of your measurement in smaller increments using the extension scale of the bar scale. Where your tick mark lands will indicate what tenth of a whole unit will be added to your total measurement. The segments on the extension scale are typically small rectangles, alternately shaded and unshaded for easy reading. You can guesstimate at even smaller increments by visually dividing each rectangle into 10ths and seeing where the tick mark falls within the rectangle. For example, on a bar scale that shows 1,000 meters for every inch: If you align the right tick mark on the 3 mark, you have at least 3,000 meters in your measurement. If the left tick mark falls on the rectangle in the extension scale that indicates 900 meters, you'll have an additional 900 meters in your measurement. Your total measurement would then be 3,900 meters. Mark the edge of a piece of paper. Put down the straight edge of a piece of paper onto your map between the two distances you want to measure. Make a tick mark on the paper's edge to indicate your “point A” and one to indicate your “point B.” Hold the piece of paper still and evenly against your two points in order to make the most accurate tick marks. If you want to, you can use a ruler or tape measure straight on the map, and note down the measurement to the smallest fraction of a unit possible. Measure the distance with a ruler. Place a ruler or measuring tape up against your piece of paper with the two tick marks and note the distance from one to the other. Use this method when your distance is too large for the bar scale given on the map, or you want to find a precise measurement using numbers. If measuring with centimeters, find the distance to the nearest millimeter. If using inches, find the distance to the nearest eighth of an inch. Note the scale given at the bottom of the map. It should show a ratio and a bar scale in both centimeters and inches. If one equates to a whole number, like 1 centimeter = 1 mile, you might choose that unit for easiest measuring. Calculate the ground distance from the measurement. Use the representative fraction, or ratio, of the map to find the ground distance based on your measurement on the map. Multiply your distance by the scale number. For example, for a map with a scale of 1:10,000: If you measured 10 centimeters from your Point A to Point B tick marks, you would multiply 10 by 10,000 to get 100,000 centimeters, the true ground distance from Point A to Point B. You can then convert your number to a more relevant distance. 100,000 centimeters equals 1 kilometer, for example, which is about 0.62 miles. Measure a distance that is too long for a bar scale. Determine if the distance between your two tick marks is too long to match up to the bar scale. In this case, you can either take several measurements with the bar scale to get the total, or use a ruler or tape measure instead. To use the bar scale for a longer measurement, place the right tick mark on the farthest number on the primary scale. Make another mark on your paper where the extension scale ends on the left, and note this distance. Use your new mark as the right tick mark and measure using the bar scale as normal. Add this to your previous number to get the total distance. If you are measuring the distance between your tick marks or 2 points on a map using a ruler that is not long enough, try a tape measure for more length. Measure a curved line with straight line segments. Determine if the route you want to measure has multiple points or takes the shape of a curve rather than a straight line. In this case, take multiple straight line measurements and add them together. Use a piece of paper to mark the distance on the map. Measure several straight lines along the curved routes and add them together. For the greatest accuracy, measure a greater number of smaller straight lines along a curved route. Calculate distance to a point off the map. Determine if your map indicates the distance from the edge of the map to another popular destination not shown—like a town, highway or junction. Add this distance to a straight line measurement from your other point to the edge of the map. Use a piece of paper or a ruler to measure the distance between point A to the edge of the map. Add the distance the marginal information of the map gives to the desired town or highway to get the total distance. Be sure that your units of measurement are the same before you add the two distances.	Lay a piece of paper down on the map and mark it. Hold your measurement up to the bar scale. Interpret the largest portion of distance from the primary scale. Read the extension scale for the smaller numbers. Mark the edge of a piece of paper. Measure the distance with a ruler. Calculate the ground distance from the measurement. Measure a distance that is too long for a bar scale. Measure a curved line with straight line segments. Calculate distance to a point off the map.
https://www.wikihow.com/Plane-Wood	How to Plane Wood	Before you use your hand plane, make sure you sharpen the blade. To do so, place a piece of 220-grit sandpaper on a flat surface and hold the plane at a 25 degree angle so the bevel is flat against the sandpaper. Then, rub the blade in a circle until metal shavings form along its back. Place the blade back in your hand plane and adjust the angle of the blade with the depth adjustment wheel. The angle you choose will determine how thick the shavings you remove will be. If you're unsure what angle to choose, opt for a shallow angle, since you can always increase the depth of the cut if necessary. When you're ready, place your plane against the edge of your wood. Hold the knob with your non-dominant hand and press down so the plane is flush with the wood. Then, hold the back handle with your dominant hand and press forward so you're working across the surface smoothly and methodically. When you're done, lay a straight edge along your wood to check and confirm it's perfectly flat.	Choose the appropriate hand plane for your job. Hand planes come in several different varieties. The main defining characteristic of each type of hand plane is size. The longer the body of a plane, the more accurately it will straighten wood, as the length of the body allows the plane to bridge peaks and troughs in the wood's surface. Shorter planes, however, are often easier to control for precise detail work. Below are a few of the most common types of hand plane you'll encounter, listed from longest to shortest: A jointer plane typically has a body length of 22 inches (56 cm) or longer. These long hand planes are useful for trimming or straightening long pieces of wood, like boards or doors. A jack plane is slightly shorter than a jointer plane, with a length from 12–17 in (30–43 cm). It is more versatile than the jointer plane because of its shorter length and thus can be used to square both longboards and shorter pieces of rough lumber. A smoothing plane is about 10 inches (25 cm) long and is the most versatile of all hand planes. It can be used for general smoothing and straightening of all projects. A block plane is the smallest type of plane. This type of plane is too short to effectively straighten longboards, but is ideal for shaving very thin pieces from a surface or working in a tight corner. Sharpen the blade of the plane. The blade (also called the iron) of the plane needs to be razor-sharp before use - even new planes should be sharpened. To sharpen the blade, first place a piece of 220-grit wet/dry sandpaper on a flat surface. Hold the blade at a 25 or 30-degree angle so that the bevel is flat against the sandpaper. Maintaining this angle, rub the blade around the sandpaper in a circle while applying downward pressure. When a burr (an accumulation of metal shavings) forms along its back, the blade is ready to use. Remove the burr by wiping the back of the blade flat across the sandpaper. Adjust the angle of the blade. When it comes to planing wood, the angle of the blade dictates how "thick" the shavings you'll take from the surface of the wood will be. If the blade angle is too deep, you can end up jamming the plane or tearing your wood. To adjust the blade angle, turn the depth adjustment wheel, which is the small wheel just behind the blade assembly. Adjust the blade's angle until the tip of the blade protrudes just below the sole of the plane. It's good policy to start by using a shallow angle, then increasing the depth of the cut if necessary. Plane the surface of the wood. Begin smoothing and flattening your wood by placing the plane at the edge of the surface. As you apply downward pressure on the front knob and press forward with the back handle, push the plane across the surface in a smooth, continuous motion. Work across the surface of your wood methodically, making sure to pay extra attention to any high spots or uneven spots on the surface of the wood. A level or straight edge can help you find uneven spots in your wood. Avoid tear-out by cutting along the grain of the wood. To smooth the surface of the board, you may find that you need to plane in multiple directions. However, always avoid planing directly against the grain. Doing so can cause the blade to "catch" under minute, angled imperfections in the surface of the wood. When this happens, the plane can tear small, rough chunks from the wood's surface, rather than shaving the surface uniformly. This is called "tear-out". To fix tear-out, try re-planing the jagged spot along the grain of the wood or sanding it smooth. Check the accuracy of your planing. Ideally, after you plane your wood, you'll have a smooth, flat surface that sits flush with any adjacent pieces of wood. Check your wood's flatness and smoothness by laying a straight edge along its surface. The straight edge should sit flush against the face of the wood regardless of its position. If, in any position, your straight edge sits on the wood in a way that leaves gaps underneath it, you'll know that the section of the wood your straight edge is making contact with is a high spot. A try square can be used to check the angle between two adjacent faces of the wood to ensure they sit at a perfect 90-degree angle. Note that surface planers generally require pieces of wood with one flat surface. Surface planers are mechanical tools that use rollers and an adjustable set of spinning blades to plane a piece of wood to a uniform thickness automatically. Surface planers are a great time-saving tool for experienced woodworkers, but it's important to know that many surface planers only plane the surface of a piece of wood relative to the opposite surface. In other words, if the bottom of the wood isn't perfectly flat, the planer will maintain this imperfection on the top surface. Because of this, you'll want to use your planer for smoothing wood surfaces only if the flatness of the opposite surface is assured. Set the planer to your desired thickness. All surface planers will somehow allow you to adjust how "deep" the wood will be planed. Often, this is via a hand-operated crank that lifts the planer's housing - the higher the housing, the shallower the planer will cut. As with a hand planer, it's wise to initially make shallow cuts. You can always cut more deeply, but you can't "undue" what you've already cut. Often, the "depth" of the cut itself isn't displayed on the planer, but the actual thickness that the wood is being planed to. Thus, to plane a 2 inches (5.1 cm) thick piece of wood by ⁄ 16 in (0.16 cm), you would set the planer to 1 ⁄ 16 in (4.9 cm) and so on. Note that most planers shouldn't be set to plane off more than ⁄ 16 – ⁄ 8 in (0.16–0.32 cm) at a time - doing so is hard on both the wood and the planer. Optionally, set the depth stop. Many planers offer the capability to "lock" the planer from cutting beneath a certain depth via a mechanism called a depth stop. For instance, if the depth stop is set to 1 inch (2.5 cm), the planer will not be able to plane the wood to a thickness of less than 1 inch (2.5 cm). This is a useful feature to have if you're worried about accidentally over-planing. If you don't want to use the depth stop, set it to a very low level - one much lower than the thickness of your board - so that you'll never hit this lower limit. Turn the planer on and pass your wood through. When your planer is running, carefully feed the wood into the planer in a straight, controlled motion. After the wood is caught by the rollers, it should begin to feed through on its own. Keep in mind that, as with a hand plane, you'll want your planer to cut along the grain of your wood to prevent tear-out. Repeat the planing process as needed until your wood is a desired level of thickness. You can track your wood's process by scribbling lightly on the surface to be planed with a pencil before planing. As your planer removes high spots in the wood, you'll see the lines of your pencil begin to disappear. Pull up on the wood as it passes the rollers to avoid snipe. "Snipe" is a condition that surface planers can sometimes produce on a piece of wood. Essentially, the planer's rollers pull upward on the wood, causing slightly deeper cuts at the edges of the wood than in the middle. To counteract this, pull up on the end of your wood as it passes through both the front and back rollers of the planer. In other words, pull up on the "back" end of your wood as you feed it into the machine, then pull up on the "front" end of the wood as it passes out of the machine. Use ear, eye, and/or mouth protection as needed. Usually, mechanical planers are very loud. Prevent damage to your ears by wearing appropriate ear protection, like earplugs or earmuffs. Additionally, planers produce lots of airborne dust, so if you don't have equipment in place to vacuum up the dust as it's being created (like a dust collector), you'll want to use eye protection and a surgical mask to protect yourself.	Choose the appropriate hand plane for your job. Sharpen the blade of the plane. Adjust the angle of the blade. Plane the surface of the wood. Avoid tear-out by cutting along the grain of the wood. Check the accuracy of your planing. Note that surface planers generally require pieces of wood with one flat surface. Set the planer to your desired thickness. Optionally, set the depth stop. Turn the planer on and pass your wood through. Pull up on the wood as it passes the rollers to avoid snipe. Use ear, eye, and/or mouth protection as needed.
https://www.wikihow.com/Write-a-Research-Essay	How to Write a Research Essay	The best way to write a research essay is to find sources, like specialty books, academic journals, and online encyclopedias, about your topic. Take notes as you research, and make sure you note which page and book you got your notes from. Create an outline for the paper that details your argument, various sections, and primary points for each section. Then, write an introduction, build the body of the essay, and state your conclusion. Cite your sources along the way, and follow the assigned format, like APA or MLA, if applicable.	Choose a topic. If you are lucky enough to be able to choose your research topic, pick one that interests you. The last thing you want is to end up spending hours learning and writing about a subject in which you have zero interest. You will find the whole process much more enjoyable if you actually care about what you are doing. Be sure to stay within the guidelines you are given by your teacher or professor. For example, if you are free to choose a topic but the general theme must fall under human biology, do not write your essay on plant photosynthesis. Stick with topics that are not overly complicated, especially if the subject is not something you plan to continue studying. There's no need to make things harder on yourself! Locate resources. Before you begin writing, read up on the subject of your essay. It is best to gather all your sources and review them before attempting to begin your paper so that you can have things clearly planned out when you actually start writing. You can find information on your topic of choice through a number of different types of resources. Some examples are discussed below. Specialty books; these can be found at your local public or school library. A book published on your topic is a great resource and will likely be one of your most reliable options for finding quality information. They also contain lists of references where you can look for more information. Academic journals; these are periodicals devoted to scholarly research on a specific field of study. Articles in academic journals are written by experts in that field and scrutinized by other professionals to ensure their accuracy. These are great options if you need to find detailed, sophisticated information on your topic; avoid these if you are only writing a general overview. Online encyclopedias; the most reliable information on the internet can be found in online encyclopedias like Encyclopedia.com and Britannica.com. While online wikis can be very helpful, they sometimes contain unverified information that you should probably not rely upon as your primary resources. Expert interviews; if possible, interview an expert in the subject of your research. Experts can be professionals working in the field you are studying, professors with advanced degrees in the subject of interest, etc. Take notes. When you are researching your topic, take notes on the information you find. It can be difficult to recall all you have read on the subject when it comes time to start writing, especially if you are unfamiliar with the topic; having notes will significantly help with this. Be sure to note where you found the information as you take notes so you can easily cite it as you write. Organize your notes by sub-topic to keep them orderly and so you can easily find references when you are writing. If you are using books or physical copies of magazines or journals, use sticky tabs to mark pages or paragraphs where you found useful information. You might even want to number these tabs to correspond with numbers on your note sheet for easy reference. By keeping your notes brief and simple, you can make them easier to understand and reference while writing. Don't make your notes so long and detailed that they essentially copy what's already written in your sources, as this won't be helpful to you. Develop an objective. Depending on the purpose of your research paper, you may find yourself needing to adopt a position or draw some conclusions about your topic. As you research the subject, ask yourself how the information you encounter fits in with the objective of your paper. For example, if you need to present two sides of an argument and then side with one, identify information that corresponds to the different viewpoints surrounding the topic (and organize the sources accordingly in your notes). Sometimes the objective of your research will be obvious to you before you even begin researching the topic; other times, you may have to do a bit of reading before you can determine the direction you want your essay to take. If you have an objective in mind from the start, you can incorporate this into online searches about your topic in order to find the most relevant resources. For example, if your objective is to outline the environmental hazards of hydraulic fracturing practices, search for that exact phrase rather than just "hydraulic fracturing." Talk to your teacher. If you are researching for a class, ask your teacher or professor for advice or suggestions as to the direction you should take with your essay. He or she might be able to help you out by narrowing (or broadening) your focus or by pointing you toward useful resources. This way, you will also be able to gauge whether your teacher approves of the topic you have in mind. Avoid asking your teacher to give you a topic. Unless your topic was assigned to you in the first place, part of the assignment is for you to choose a topic relevant to the broader theme of the class or unit. By asking your teacher to do this for you, you risk admitting laziness or incompetence. If you have a few topics in mind but are not sure how to develop objectives for some of them, your teacher can help with this. Plan to discuss your options with your teacher and come to a decision yourself rather than having him or her choose the topic for you from several options. Break up your essay into sub-topics. You will probably need to address several distinct aspects of your research topic in your essay. This is an important tactic for producing a well-organized research essay because it avoids 'stream of consciousness' writing, which typically lacks order. Consider what background information is necessary to contextualize your research topic. What questions might the reader have right out of the gate? How do you want the reader to think about the topic? Answering these kinds of questions can help you figure out how to set up your argument. Match your paper sections to the objective(s) of your writing. For example, if you are trying to present two sides of a debate, create a section for each and then divide them up according to the aspects of each argument you want to address. Create an outline. One of the most helpful things you can do when writing a research paper is to outline the various sections and primary points of the essay. Do this before you begin writing so you can visualize how each of the essay's parts will fit together. This will also allow you to rearrange components of the paper to make it flow logically. An outline can be as detailed or general as you want, so long as it helps you figure out how to construct the essay. Some people like to include a few sentences under each heading in their outline to create a sort of "mini-essay" before they begin writing. Others find that a simple ordered list of topics is sufficient. Do whatever works best for you. If you have time, write your outline a day or two before you start writing and come back to it several times. This will give you an opportunity to think about how the pieces of your essay will best fit together. Rearrange things in your outline as many times as you want until you have a structure you are happy with. Choose a format. Research papers, unlike creative writing pieces, usually adhere to a specific style guides governing the way sources must be cited and various other aspects of writing mechanics. If you are writing a research essay for a class, your teacher will probably specify which style the essay must conform to. Common examples include MLA (Modern Language Association) and APA (American Psychological Association) style formats, but specific fields also have their own style guides. Consult your teacher if you aren't sure what style to use. Style guides tell you exactly how to quote passages, cite references, construct works cited sections, etc. If you are assigned a specific format, you must take care to adhere to guidelines for text formatting and citations. Some computer programs (such as EndNote) allow you to construct a library of resources which you can then set to a specific format type; then you can automatically insert in-text citations from your library and populate a references section at the end of the document. This is an easy way to make sure your citations match your assigned style format. Make a plan. You should set realistic writing goals for yourself so you can stay on task without feeling overburdened. It is a good idea to create a schedule and set aside blocks of time each day to work on specific parts of your essay. This way you aren't stuck writing nonstop for two days to meet your deadline and you can check things off your list as you complete them. You may wish to start by simply assigning yourself a certain number of pages per day. Divide the number of pages you are required to write by the number of days you have to finish the essay; this is the number of pages (minimum) that you must complete each day in order to pace yourself evenly. If possible, leave a buffer of at least one day between finishing your paper and the due date. This will allow you to review your finished product and edit it for errors. This will also help in case something comes up that slows your writing progress. Create an introduction. In this section, introduce your topic and establish the purpose for your essay. If you intend to investigate a debated topic, state this in your introduction. You want the reader to have a good idea of what the essay is about and how it is constructed by reading your introduction. Save your opinions and any conclusions you've drawn for the rest of the essay. Keep your introduction relatively short. For most papers, one or two paragraphs will suffice. For really long essays, you may need to expand this. Don't assume your reader already knows the basics of the topic unless it truly is a matter of common knowledge. For example, you probably don't need to explain in your introduction what biology is, but you should define less general terms such as "eukaryote" or "polypeptide chain." Build the body of your essay. This is the meat of your paper, on which you should place the majority of your focus. The length and detail of your essay will determine the form of its body, but at a minimum this should include any key arguments, any research methods used and results obtained (in cases where you performed original research), and your main research findings. You may need to include a special section at the beginning of the essay body for background information on your topic. Alternatively, you can consider moving this to the introductory section, but only if your essay is short and only minimal background discussion is needed. This is the part of your paper where organization and structure are most important. Arrange sections within the body so that they flow logically and the reader is introduced to ideas and sub-topics before they are discussed further. Depending upon the length and detail of your paper, the end of the body might contain a discussion of findings. This kind of section serves to wrap up your main findings but does not explicitly state your conclusions (which should come in the final section of the essay). Avoid repetition in the essay body. Keep your writing concise, yet with sufficient detail to address your objective(s) or research question(s). Cite your references properly. One of the biggest mistakes you can make when writing a research paper is to fail to properly cite your sources. Passing off someone else's ideas as your own, whether intentional or not, is plagiarism, and it could land you a failing grade or even expulsion from your school. Take the time to ensure you are citing information the right way by following these guidelines: Always use quotation marks when using exact quotes from another source. If someone already said or wrote the words you are using, you must quote them this way! Place your in-text citation at the end of the quote. To include someone else's ideas in your essay without directly quoting them, you can restate the information in your own words; this is called paraphrasing. Although this does not require quotation marks, it should still be accompanied by an in-text citation. State your conclusions. This section stands apart from the essay body in that it is devoted solely to stating the conclusions you have drawn from your research. Avoid discussing details of your research or presenting results in this section. You may wish to rephrase your study objective and state how your findings address that goal. Except for very long essays, keep your conclusion short and to the point. You should aim for one or two paragraphs, if possible. Conclusions should directly correspond to research discussed in the essay body. In other words, make sure your conclusions logically connect to the rest of your essay and provide explanations when necessary. If your topic is complex and involves lots of details, you should consider including a brief summary of the main points of your research in your conclusion. Revisit your thesis or objective. Once you've completed your first draft, you should go back to your introductory paragraph(s) and evaluate whether your essay accomplishes the stated goals you presented in the beginning. A good essay will thoroughly address any questions or unknowns posed in its introduction. If your conclusions do not logically follow the stated purpose or objective of your essay, then you will need to fix this. Making changes to the discussion and conclusion sections instead of the introduction often requires a less extensive rewrite. Doing this also prevents you from removing anything from the beginning of your essay that could accidentally make subsequent portions of your writing seem out of place. It is okay to revise your thesis once you've finished the first draft of your essay! People's views often change once they've done research on a topic. Just make sure you don't end up straying too far from your assigned topic if you do this. You don't necessarily need to wait until you've finished your entire draft to do this step. In fact, it is a good idea to revisit your thesis regularly as you write. This can save you a lot of time in the end by helping you keep your essay content on track. Construct a "works cited" section. This is a critical element of any research paper, because this is where you give credit to all the sources from which you borrowed information to write your essay. This is not something that should be left for the end of your writing; rather, you should build your works cited section as you write, adding citations as you reference them in your writing. Computer software such as EndNote is available for making citation organization as easy and quick as possible. You can create a reference library and link it to your document, adding in-text citations as you write; the program creates a formatted works cited section at the end of your document. Be aware of the formatting requirements of your chosen style guide for works cited sections and in-text citations. Reference library programs like EndNote have hundreds of pre-loaded formats to choose from. Put finishing touches on your essay. After you have written your essay, there are some final things to take care of to turn your paper into a polished piece of work that your teacher will appreciate. While not all of these have to wait until the essay is fully written, it is a good idea to take care of the important stuff first -- which is the writing, of course! Final tasks include: Create a catchy title. Waiting until you have finished your essay before choosing a title ensures that it will closely match the content of your essay. Research papers don't always take on the shape we expect them to, and it's easier to match your title to your essay than vice-versa. Read through your paper to identify and rework sentences or paragraphs that are confusing or unclear. Each section of your paper should have a clear focus and purpose; if any of yours seem not to meet these expectations, either rewrite or discard them. Review your works cited section (at the end of your essay) to ensure that it conforms to the standards of your chosen or assigned style format. You should at least make sure that the style is consistent throughout this section. Run a spell checker on your entire document to catch any spelling or grammar mistakes you may not have noticed during your read-through. All modern word processing programs include this function. Revise your draft. The first draft of your paper should not be the version you turn in to your teacher (unless you are really good at editing as you write). It is usually necessary to rewrite or at least reorganize and tidy up a research essay before it can be considered finished. Give yourself a day or so away from your first draft to get some distance from your project before going back to revise it. Note that revising your draft is not the same as proofreading it. Revisions are done to make sure the content and substantive ideas are solid; editing is done to check for spelling and grammar errors. Revisions are arguably a more important part of writing a good paper. You may want to have a friend, classmate, or family member read your first draft and give you feedback. This can be immensely helpful when trying to decide how to improve upon your first version of the essay. Except in extreme cases, avoid a complete rewrite of your first draft. This will most likely be counterproductive and will waste a lot of time. Your first draft is probably already pretty good -- it likely just needs some tweaking before it is ready to submit.	Choose a topic. Locate resources. Take notes. Develop an objective. Talk to your teacher. Break up your essay into sub-topics. Create an outline. Choose a format. Make a plan. Create an introduction. Build the body of your essay. Cite your references properly. State your conclusions. Revisit your thesis or objective. Construct a "works cited" section. Put finishing touches on your essay. Revise your draft.
https://www.wikihow.com/Swing-a-Driver	How to Swing a Driver	To swing a driver, start by standing 3 steps behind the ball with your feet shoulder width apart. Then, bend your knees and lean forward from the hips. Once in position, sweep the club's head back in an arc until it's behind your head. Then, swing the driver back down and straighten your arms as it approaches the ball. After you make contact, lift and turn your rear foot to follow through.	Stand beside the ball with your weaker hand closer to the target. Choose the side you want to swing from, then face the ball. If you are right-handed, stand on the left side of the ball. Point your left shoulder towards the target. If you are left-handed, stand to the right of the ball with your right shoulder pointed towards the target. The half of your body closest to the target is your front side, such as your front arm and leg. Is This half is most important for aiming and driving the ball forward. The half furthest from the target is your back or rear side. This half is responsible for your backswing and generating power. Position yourself about 3 steps behind the ball. Walk backwards from the ball if you are unsure where to stand. When hitting the ball, you will need to bend over slightly. If this feels uncomfortable, you can move closer or further from the ball as needed. You should be able to see the top of the ball without standing over it. If your head is directly over the ball, you will have a hard time generating a smooth, powerful swing. If you stand too far away from the ball, you will have to stretch your arms further to hit the ball, weakening your drive. Spread your legs apart with your knees bent slightly forward. Stand beside the ball, spacing your legs about a shoulder width apart. The ball should be positioned a little behind the inside part of the heel on your front leg. This means the ball will be much closer to your front leg than your back leg. A wider stance means you will swing the driver in a wider arc. This can throw off your timing, so keep your feet relatively close together at first. Focus on getting your stance correct before bringing the club into position. Once you have mastered this, you can do both simultaneously to improve your aim.. Grip the driver firmly with 1 hand below the other. This grip is called the overlap grip and is beginner-friendly. Position your back hand on the driver's grip. Then, place your front hand above it, resting 1 or 2 fingers over your lower hand. Adjust your grip until it feels comfortable and balanced, neither tight nor loose. An interlocking grip is when you cross your index finger and pinkie. This is a good grip for fast swings and anyone with smaller hands. A 10-finger grip is like holding a baseball bat. Your fingers do not overlap. It can be good if you lack strength, but it leads to less powerful drives. Bend at the hips to bring your head towards the ball. Plant your feet firmly on the ground so they stay in position. Slowly bend forward, keeping your back and neck straight. Your head should come forward so you are able to look diagonally down to your club's head and the top of the ball. Your back and neck should be flat. If your spine is bent at all, you may tire out and get sore while playing. The ball should line up with your front ear, although your ear will be behind the ball instead of over it. Tilt your body to raise your forward shoulder. Twist forward and towards your front leg. Bring the club around so it is near the tee. This should cause your front hip and shoulder to raise up. You want your front side to be slightly higher than your back side. To get yourself in position, you may shift your weight to your back leg. If you are having trouble getting the angle correct, take your back hand off the club. Put it behind your rear knee to lower your shoulder, then put it back on the driver grip again. Drop your shoulders to position the club behind the ball. Position the club head so it is centered behind the ball. Let your shoulders hang down, then pull them back slightly. This should make your arms feel firm, ready to control a steady swing. If you feel like you can't swing the club freely, adjust your positioning as needed by stepping back or standing straighter. This position causes the head of the driver to strike the ball on the upswing, lifting it off the tee. Balance is key. Make sure your weight is evenly distributed in both legs. Sweep the club’s head back in an arc until it is behind your head. Start your swing in your abdomen, tightening the muscles there as you begin moving the club towards your back leg. Keep your hands in position with your feet flat on the ground. Continue moving the club in an arc until the shaft is behind the middle part of your head. Keep your leading, or front, arm straight the entire time so you don't have to straighten it out on the downswing. Generate power by shifting your weight to your back leg as you swing. Swing the driver down to begin your downstroke. Start the downswing by slightly pushing your front knee and hip towards the ball. Shift your weight from your back foot to your front foot, keeping both feet flat on the ground. Avoid adjusting your arms during the swing. Swing the club back down in a arc like it's a pendulum. Avoid rushing the swing. You can let the club settle briefly over your shoulders before you begin the downswing. The goal is to swing smoothly rather than hit the ball as hard as you can. Extend your arms as you swing. Your front arm should still be straight like it was during your backswing. Straighten your rear arm as you bring the club around. Both of your arms become completely straight when the club reaches the ball. Focus on keeping your arms straight as long as possible after hitting the ball. Push your feet down into the ground as you strike the ball. Right before the club reaches the ball, shift your weight fully to your front leg. Imagine that you are squishing a giant bug underneath your toes. This can help you transition your weight smoothly from back to front, generating more power. The key is to do this in a smooth motion. You may need to practice your swing before you can do this without thinking. For extra speed, shift your front foot away from the ball as you swing. Lift and turn your rear foot after you hit the ball. As you shift your weight to your front leg, try to keep your back foot on the ground as long as possible. After the club strikes the ball, twist your ankle so your back leg follows the rest of your body. When done correctly, your back foot will point forward with only the toes touching the ground. As you twist your foot around, the rest of your body also continues to twist, following your club's swing. Follow through by bringing your club over your front shoulder. Avoid stopping your swing short, since this causes shorter, weaker drives. Bring the club's head all the way through the ball. Continue the arc of the swing until the club comes up over your shoulders. At the end, the club's head should point down towards the ground. At the end of your swing, your arms will be bent into the shape of a capital “L.” Your back arm will be near your head with your front arm behind it. Stay relaxed during your follow-through. Tensing up causes the ball to veer to the left or right. Stay balanced to swing with an average amount of power. One of the most basic issues is trying to hammer the ball to hit it long distances. This ends up reducing your power because you aren't swinging properly. Check your swing mechanics to ensure your feet and hands are balanced. Then, swing steadily without attempting to make power adjustments. For example, make sure your feet are flat on the ground with your weight balanced between them. If your swing is too light, the ball won't travel very far. Your hands and shoulders may be too loose. Remember, the goal is to swing the club smoothly and make contact, not smash the ball. You may lose a little distance at first, but consistency makes up for it over time. Swing the driver at a steady speed. A lot of beginning golfers face a swing speed problem. They start a normal upswing, but rush the downswing. This interrupts the natural flow of your swing, so you hit weaker balls that tend to curve all over the golf course. Practice your swing until you can do it in a single, fluid motion. Although the basic mechanics are the same, not all golfers have the same swing. You may need to experiment a little to find out what feels natural to you. A common problem is hesitating as you begin the downswing. Other golfers may tell you you're swinging too fast when in reality the hesitation makes your swing look faster than it is. Adjust your hand grip to hit the ball straighter. For a good swing, your grip strength needs to be equal across both hands. Keep a firm grip on the driver, but avoid squeezing it too hard. If your front hand grip is too strong, the ball will hook. If your back hand grip is too strong, the ball will slice. A hook is when the ball curves inwards towards your body. This is right to left for right-handed golfers and left to right for left-handed golfers. A slice is when the ball curves away from your body, or left to right for right-handers and right to left for left-handers. Straighten your swing to avoid hooks and slices. If your grip strength is fine, your swing mechanics may be an issue. First of all, make sure your legs, hips, and shoulders are straight while swinging. Swing through the ball with a consistent speed, since slowing down or speeding up can cause hooks and slices, respectively. Your club's head should face upward as it snaps into the ball. Experiment with which part of the club's head strikes the ball, since this affects the curve. Although you can adjust your aim to compensate for a curving ball, fixing your swing mechanics is a better long-term solution. If you are certain your swing is good, moving the tee forward or adjusting your distance to it can help.	Stand beside the ball with your weaker hand closer to the target. Position yourself about 3 steps behind the ball. Spread your legs apart with your knees bent slightly forward. Grip the driver firmly with 1 hand below the other. Bend at the hips to bring your head towards the ball. Tilt your body to raise your forward shoulder. Drop your shoulders to position the club behind the ball. Sweep the club’s head back in an arc until it is behind your head. Swing the driver down to begin your downstroke. Extend your arms as you swing. Push your feet down into the ground as you strike the ball. Lift and turn your rear foot after you hit the ball. Follow through by bringing your club over your front shoulder. Stay balanced to swing with an average amount of power. Swing the driver at a steady speed. Adjust your hand grip to hit the ball straighter. Straighten your swing to avoid hooks and slices.
https://www.wikihow.com/Use-an-Epilator	How to Use an Epilator	Before using an epilator to remove hair, prep the area by shaving it 1-3 days beforehand, which will make epilating easier and less painful. You should also try to exfoliate the area the day before, and plan to set aside 30 minutes to epilate in the evening. If you can, try to take an over-the-counter painkiller 30 to 60 minutes before epilating. Then, begin the hair removal process by exposing the area to warm water for 10 minutes, and then gliding your "wet to dry" epilator along your skin in the direction of your hair growth. For the best results, start on the slowest setting and keep your epilator at a 90-degree angle as you use it. Once you're finished epilating, use aloe vera gel or a good moisturizer to soothe your skin.	Invest in the highest quality device you can afford. Epilators come in a range of price points, so it's possible to buy a decent device no matter what your budget is. It's usually best to go with the best quality you can afford, since you'll be using this tool repeatedly and you want it to remain in peak condition. Think of it as an investment! Better quality devices usually have a higher number of tweezers in the head. Use a “wet and dry” epilator for the most convenient and painless approach. There are 2 types of epilators—dry models and wet models (which can also be used dry). If you're a beginner, look for a “wet and dry” device, since you can use it in the shower and the removed hair goes right down the drain. “Wet and dry” models are often less painful to use, as well. “Wet and dry” models are less painful because the warm water opens your pores and relaxes your muscles. If you have previous experience with epilators, you may want to go with a dry model. Some people feel that they grip the hair better and remove it more cleanly. You'll also be used to the sensation, so pain is less of a factor. Buy a slow speed device with a small head if you have sensitive skin. The tweezers on the device's head essentially pull your hair out at the root, so models that go slower and have smaller heads tweeze less hair at a time and use less force. If you have sensitive skin, this could be a major bonus for you. A head with 20-40 tweezers is usually considered small. Higher powered devices usually have 60 or more tweezers. You can also look for devices with hypoallergenic ceramic disks if you have sensitive skin. Use a device that comes with a sensitive area cap for intimate areas. If you plan to epilate your face, bikini area, or underarms, look for a device that comes with caps made especially for these intimate areas. High quality devices usually come with a variety of accessories and caps to meet all of your needs. If you have very sensitive skin, you may want to stick to epilating your legs and arms and avoid doing the more sensitive areas. Shave the area 1-3 days before you plan to epilate. This may sound counter-intuitive, but it's much easier and less painful to epilate when the hair is 1-2 millimeters long. Shave the area as you normally would, then give the hair a couple of days to grow out before epilating for the most comfortable experience. Exfoliate the area the day before epilating. Exfoliating will remove dead skin cells and give you a closer finish when you epilate. It's also extremely important to prevent painful ingrown hairs from occurring after epilating. You can use a body scrub or exfoliating gloves to gently exfoliate the area the day before. Remember to exfoliate before every epilating session. Set aside at least 30 minutes to epilate and try to do it at night. Epilating takes longer than shaving, especially if you've never done it before, and this is definitely not a process that you want to rush through. Set aside at least a half hour to epilate both legs, or more if you're working on multiple areas. The skin will be red and irritated after you finish, so epilating at night gives your skin plenty of time to recover before you have to go anywhere. Avoid epilating right before you have to leave the house. Even if you've epilated before, you will have some redness and a few bumps afterward. Take an over-the-counter painkiller 30-60 minutes before you begin. Epilating is going to sting a bit, especially the first time—there's just no way around it. Taking an over-the-counter painkiller like acetaminophen or ibuprofen before you get started can counteract some of the pain and swelling you experience. If you're especially worried about pain, consider investing in a topical numbing cream like lidocaine. This can be a bit expensive, but if you're very sensitive, it may be worth the cost. Don't worry—the process will get less painful over time! Get in the shower and expose the area to warm water for 10 minutes. Warm water opens your pores, softens the hairs, and relaxes your muscles, all of which can make the process less painful. It's also important that your skin is clean and free of oils and moisturizers before epilating for the best results. Since you're probably using a “wet to dry” model, you'll be using it in the shower anyway! If you're using a dry model, be sure to dry your skin thoroughly before you get started. Hold the epilator at a 90-degree angle right next to the skin. Hold the device in your dominant hand and at a 90-degree angle, which is the most effective angle for plucking out the hair. Avoid pushing the epilator head against your skin—just let the device rest loosely against your skin so the rotary tweezers can grasp the hair and pull it out easily. Pushing the epilator into your skin can cause pinching and may not remove the hair thoroughly. Hold your skin taut with your free hand. This lessens the pain and is key to ensuring your epilator pulls out the hair properly. Use your free hand to gently pull your skin so that it stretches, creating a surface that is as smooth and flat as possible. This is especially important to do around areas where the skin folds, like knees, thighs, and calves. Turn the epilator on and adjust it to the slowest setting. You can always adjust the speed later, after you get the hang of the process. For now, start out with the slowest speed setting your device allows. This will probably be the least painful setting for a beginner, and it will definitely be the least intimidating setting! Glide the epilator slowly over your skin in the direction of hair growth. Move as slowly as possible, which gives the device enough time to pluck the hairs out completely and prevents you from having to go over areas multiple times. Work in small sections and make sure each section is completely hair-free before moving on to the next section. Expect to feel a stinging sensation as the epilator does its job. This is normal! If you're epilating your legs, you'll be working from bottom to top to epilate against the grain of hair growth. You can also use slow, circular motions to remove hair growing in different directions. Take breaks if you need to. You don't have to epilate the entire area all at once! It can help to take a few breaks or to alternate between areas to give your skin a break. If the process is making you feel pretty uncomfortable, you can even opt to finish the job the next night. Don't feel that you have to complete the job in one sitting. Don't worry, over time you should develop a tolerance to the sensation. Soothe the epilated skin with aloe vera gel or a good moisturizer. After you finish epilating, your skin will look red and bumpy—this is totally normal. Smooth aloe vera gel or a thick lotion over your skin to calm it down. Witch hazel-based moisturizers can be particularly effective at reducing irritation. The redness should subside within a few hours. Clean your epilator thoroughly after using it. This is super important for hygiene and to keep your epilator in good condition. Use the cleaning brush that the device came with or simply rinse the head under warm water. For dry epilators, you may want to use rubbing alcohol to sterilize the head since you can't use water on it. Be sure to dry the head completely after cleaning it. Avoid storing your device before it's completely dry.	Invest in the highest quality device you can afford. Use a “wet and dry” epilator for the most convenient and painless approach. Buy a slow speed device with a small head if you have sensitive skin. Use a device that comes with a sensitive area cap for intimate areas. Shave the area 1-3 days before you plan to epilate. Exfoliate the area the day before epilating. Set aside at least 30 minutes to epilate and try to do it at night. Take an over-the-counter painkiller 30-60 minutes before you begin. Get in the shower and expose the area to warm water for 10 minutes. Hold the epilator at a 90-degree angle right next to the skin. Hold your skin taut with your free hand. Turn the epilator on and adjust it to the slowest setting. Glide the epilator slowly over your skin in the direction of hair growth. Take breaks if you need to. Soothe the epilated skin with aloe vera gel or a good moisturizer. Clean your epilator thoroughly after using it.
https://www.wikihow.com/Remove-Scratches-From-Plastic-Lens-Glasses	How to Remove Scratches From Plastic Lens Glasses	To remove scratches from plastic lens glasses, try using white toothpaste for shallow scratches. First, apply a small amount of toothpaste to the lens. Then, buff the toothpaste into the lens with a microfiber cloth using small circular motions. Rinse the toothpaste off your glasses, and you're done! You can also try using baking soda. Mix together equal parts baking soda and water to make a paste. Apply the paste to the lens, then buff with a microfiber cloth. Rinse off the baking soda, and repeat the process if necessary. For stubborn scratches, you can try using a glass etching compound. Apply the compound to the lens and let it sit for 5 minutes. Then, rinse the compound off and wipe the lens dry. The compound should remove the top layer of the plastic, taking the scratches along with it.	Clean the surface of your lenses in order to determine where the scratches actually are. Make sure to use a cleaner made specifically for glasses and a clean micro-fiber cloth. You can get this at any eye glass store or optometrist's office. In fact, they will probably give it to you for free if you have bought glasses there. Apply scratch remover to your lenses. There are a wide variety of products that can be used to remove scratches to your lenses. Begin by dabbing a non-abrasive toothpaste on the lens. Rub it on the scratch in a circular motion with a cotton ball and rinse it with cool water. If the scratch is deep, you may need to repeat the process a few times. If you don't have non-abrasive toothpaste you can make a paste from baking soda and water. Put baking soda in a bowl and mix in small amounts of water until you have a thick paste. Rub the paste on the same way you did the toothpaste, and rinse it off when you think the scratch is gone. Wipe off any excess scratch remover. If you cannot remove it all with a rag or a cotton ball, rinse the lenses with cool water and wipe dry with a non-abrasive rag. Try another cleaner if toothpaste or baking soda did not work. Try buffing the scratched plastic glasses with brass or silver polish and a soft rag. Rub the polish around on the glasses and wipe any excess off with a clean, soft rag. Repeat until the scratch is gone. Be careful of your glasses frames when using a cleaner that is not made for glasses. Try not to get any on your frames because it is unknown what the cleaner will do to the frames. Apply a scratch filling product if scratches remain. If you still have visible scratches on the surface of your plastic lenses you can apply a product that will fill the scratches temporarily with wax. Simply rub on the product onto the lenses using a clean micro-fiber cloth, rub it around in a circular motion, and then wipe it off with a clean area of the cloth. This will allow you to see clearly through your glasses but will need to be reapplied weekly. The two types of products that work best for this are products made to wax your car, such as Turtle Wax, and furniture polishes that contains wax, such as Lemon Pledge. Put your glasses back on! You should be able to see much better through your newly repaired lenses. Verify that your lenses are plastic, not glass. This method can ONLY be used on plastic lenses, as it will permanently and irrevocably ruin glass lenses. It is also a method of last resort for plastic lenses, as it will remove all coatings from your plastic lenses. This means that once all the coatings are gone, your lenses will no longer have any protection and you are more likely to get major scratches in your lenses in the future. Only do this method if you are ok with removing the anti-reflective or anti-scratch coating from your glasses. Many times it is scratches to these coatings that hinder your sight and so removing the coatings will allow you to see through your lenses once again. It's best to try this method as a last resort before you cave in and buy new glasses. Clean the surface of your plastic lenses as you would normally. Use a cleaner made to clean eyeglasses and a clean micro-fiber cloth. Cleaning the surface will allow you to see the extent of the actual scratches to your lenses. Buy a glass etching abrasive designed for glass art projects. You can buy the abrasive at any hobby or craft store. Glass etching compounds contain hydrofluoric acid, an acid that eats through almost anything other than plastic. When you apply it to your lenses it will eat through any coatings but will leave the plastic lenses completely intact. You will also need rubber gloves when applying the abrasive, so buy those too if you don't already have some. Put on your rubber gloves before applying the abrasive to your plastic lenses and take the lenses out of your glasses. You will also need a small plastic container to set the lenses in while they are covered in the abrasive. Be sure that this container will not be used with food after it is used for this project. Apply the glass etching abrasive to the lenses with a cloth or a cotton ball. Then put the lenses in your small plastic container and let them sit for a few minutes. Wipe off all of the abrasive with a soft cloth or cotton ball. Rinse the lenses with cold water. Dispose of all items that came in contact with the abrasive (except your lenses obviously) in the trash. Put your lenses back in your glasses frames and put on your glasses. While they will no longer have anti-reflective or anti-scratch coatings, you should be able to see through them much better.	Clean the surface of your lenses in order to determine where the scratches actually are. Apply scratch remover to your lenses. Wipe off any excess scratch remover. Try another cleaner if toothpaste or baking soda did not work. Apply a scratch filling product if scratches remain. Put your glasses back on! Verify that your lenses are plastic, not glass. Clean the surface of your plastic lenses as you would normally. Buy a glass etching abrasive designed for glass art projects. Put on your rubber gloves before applying the abrasive to your plastic lenses and take the lenses out of your glasses. Apply the glass etching abrasive to the lenses with a cloth or a cotton ball. Wipe off all of the abrasive with a soft cloth or cotton ball. Put your lenses back in your glasses frames and put on your glasses.
https://www.wikihow.com/Control-an-Algae-Bloom	How to Control an Algae Bloom	To control an algae bloom in your fish tank, change the water every 2 weeks to dilute the amount of algae. Additionally, wipe down the sides of your tank once a week to get rid of any algae attached to the glass. Alternatively, try introducing algae-eating fish or invertebrates, like snails or sea cucumbers, to your tank to reduce algae levels. You could also try feeding your fish less frequently, since overfeeding is one of the main causes of algae blooms.	Perform a partial water change in your tank. Partial water changes are one of the most efficient ways of combating algal blooms in your tank. By removing a portion of the water and replacing it with algae-free water, you'll essentially dilute the algae content of the water. You should generally do a partial water change every two weeks to protect the water quality in your tank. Drain or siphon off about 25% of the water in your tank. For severe algal blooms, you may need to replace more than 25% of the water. Do not change more than 50% of your tank's water at any given time. This can upset the pH of your tank and could stress your fish, which may be fatal. Test the pH before and after performing a partial water change. The pH should not go up or down by more than 0.2 units to avoid stressing your fish. Scrape algae off the glass walls. One way to help control ongoing algae blooms is to physically remove the existing algae from your tank. This can be done while you're performing a partial water change, as you'll have easier access to the walls of your tank when the water level is lower. Scrape or wipe down the walls of your tank at least once every week. Be careful if using a sponge. In addition to harboring microorganisms, reusable sponges may trap grains of sand, which could scratch the glass. Consider using an algicide in your tank. A commercially-available chemical algicide can help kill algae quickly and efficiently. However, you'll need to be careful with chemical agents like this, as they can upset the balance in your tank if used improperly. Do not use algicide if you have live plants in your tank, as algicide will most likely kill them. Introduce algae-eating fish and invertebrates. You can easily remove algae from your home aquarium by employing algae-eating fish and invertebrates to the tank. These living additions will eat algae off the plants, substrate, and even off the glass walls of the tank. Check with a knowledgeable employee at your local pet store to find aquatic or marine organisms that can help control the algae in your tank. Most species of aquatic snail will eat algae, whether in a freshwater or marine tank. Just be sure that you check at the pet store to ensure the snail you get can live in your tank at home. Bristle stars, bristle worms, aquatic hermit crabs, Nassarius snails, and sea cucumbers will all help control algae in a marine tank by removing organic detritus from the substrate of your tank. Try adding allelopathic plants. Some plants produce and release chemicals that can help inhibit algal growth in a home aquarium. Fast-growing plants tend to be the most allelopathic. Some well-known allelopathic plants that can be added to your aquarium include Cabomba, Egeria, Ceratopteris, Hygrophila, and Vallisneria. Feed your fish less food or feed them less frequently. Overfeeding of fish is one of the biggest causes of algal blooms in home aquariums. You may be tempted to feed your fish multiple times a day or to add more food to ensure that your fish are well-fed, but all that extra food that isn't eaten ends up settling into the substrate and decomposing in the water. This fuels algal growth, and it can quickly turn an otherwise clean tank into a mess. Try switching to a fish food that's low in phosphates. The label should state the contents and levels of each ingredient. Try feeding your fish only once per day. Some fish experts even recommend feeding fish every other day instead of every day, if the fish can handle such a feeding schedule (ask a fish expert at your local pet store). Experiment with how much food is enough for your fish. Usually a few pellets or flakes per fish are all that can be eaten before the excess food falls to the bottom of the tank. If you're worried that may not be enough food for all of your fish, try feeding them a second time later in the day. However, be sure you feed them smaller portions for both meals. Reduce the lighting in your tank. Food and light are the two biggest factors that permit an algal bloom. If you have a tank light over your aquarium, you may need to reduce how often you use it. In addition to reducing the amount of time your tank is lit, you should also replace the light bulbs in your tank. Various types of algae tend to thrive in differing wavelengths of light, and as your light bulbs age they tend to change from one wavelength to another. Try turning off the tank light altogether while you are battling with an active algal bloom. Reduce the amount of time you light your tank once the algae is under control. Try to limit the light time to just a few hours per day. Change fluorescent bulbs once every year, and change VHO lamps at least twice every year. Regulate the water temperature in your tank. Algae can grow in any temperature or condition. However, studies have shown that algae generally thrive the most easily in warmer temperatures. If you use a heater for your tank, try lowering the temperature by a few degrees. Just make sure that your fish can survive in the temperature range you're considering before you adjust the tank's temperature. Check with a fish expert at your local pet store to determine what water temperature range your fish need to survive. Test your tap water. Algae thrive when water contains high levels of phosphate and nitrate. Though municipal tap water is safe for consumption and generally low in phosphates and nitrates, there is always a chance that your water source is adding these algae-friendly nutrients to the tank every time you change the water. The best way to ensure that you're adding quality water to your tank is to test your tap water with a home testing kit. Tap water should ideally be at 0 parts per million (ppm) when you test for nitrates and phosphates. If your tap water tests higher than 0 ppm, you'll need to filter your water before adding it to the tank. You can purchase a water quality testing kit and a water filter at many pet stores or through an online retailer. Install a protein skimmer in your tank. Protein skimmers will help remove organic material like waste and excess nutrients from the water in your tank. That way, if you accidentally overfeed your fish or if fish waste accumulates in the tank, you'll still be able to keep the water relatively clean. A proper protein skimmer should run continuously 24 hours a day. You can discontinue or decrease use of the protein skimmer once your aquarium is free of algae. Change your filter media on a monthly basis. The filter on your home aquarium can easily build up organic wastes and nutrients. Even though the filter removes these elements from the water, a dirty filter will eventually start to leak those algae-friendly additives back into the tank. To combat this, the filter media should be changed every month. You should also rinse off the filter media every time you perform a partial water change to ensure that the nutrients and detritus do not build up inside the filter.	Perform a partial water change in your tank. Scrape algae off the glass walls. Consider using an algicide in your tank. Introduce algae-eating fish and invertebrates. Try adding allelopathic plants. Feed your fish less food or feed them less frequently. Reduce the lighting in your tank. Regulate the water temperature in your tank. Test your tap water. Install a protein skimmer in your tank. Change your filter media on a monthly basis.
https://www.wikihow.com/Appear-to-Read-Someone%27s-Mind-with-Numbers	How to Appear to Read Someone's Mind with Numbers	If you want to appear to read someone's mind with numbers, use a few simple math tricks. Ask your friend to think of a number. Then, have them double the number, add 10, and divide their answer by 2. Finally, have them subtract the original number from the last answer. No matter what number your friend started with, the answer will be 5. For example, if your friend picks the number 6, doubling it will give them 12, adding 10 will give them 22, dividing by 2 will result in the number 11, and subtracting the original number 6 will give them 5. Since your friend doesn't know that any number will lead back to 5, announce that you've read their mind by guessing the final calculation.	Ask your friend to pick a number. He should keep this number secret from you. Tell him not to forget, since he'll have to remember it later. We'll go through an example where your friend picks the number 6. Even kids can do the math in this trick, as long as they can multiply and divide by 2. A young kid might need to whisper the number to another person, so she can remind him later. Have your friend double the number. Say "Now double the number you chose, but don't tell me the answer." In our example, 6 x 2 = 12. Show him 10 fingers. Ask him to add 10 to his last answer. 12 + 10 = 22. Divide the answer by 2. Tell your friend you're trying to read his mind, but the number is too big right now. Ask him to divide the answer by 2 to make it smaller. 22 ÷ 2 = 11. Subtract the original number. Ask him to take the last answer and subtract the original number he picked. The person in our example picked 6, so he would calculate 11 - 6 = 5. Announce that the answer is 5. No matter what number your friend chose, he will end up with 5 as his final answer. Announce that you have read his mind, and the last number your friend wrote down is 5. If there are other people in the room, have your friend show them the piece of paper to prove it. Know why this works. Most of these steps are there just to make it hard for people to follow the problem. After you double the chosen number, divide it by two, and subtract the number, you've cancelled out the original number completely. Now it doesn't matter what your friend chose. The answer only depends on the extra numbers and instructions you gave him, which happen to lead to 5 in this trick. Have someone write down the same digit 3 times. She should keep the paper hidden from you at all times. A calculator will come in handy for this trick. For example, she could write down 555. Instruct her to add all three digits together. Ask the subject of the "mind reading" to separate the three digits and add them together. In this example, 5 + 5 + 5 = 15. Divide the larger number by the smaller one. Confirm that the subject now has two numbers written down, a three-digit number and a smaller one. Ask her to take the three digit number and divide it by the smaller one. 555 ÷ 15 = 37. Announce that she's thinking of the number 37. Whether she chose 111, or 999, or one of the options in between, your volunteer will always end up with 37 as her answer! Learn why this works. There's no deep trick here; these are just properties of the numbers involved. 37 x 3 = 111. Each "jump" up (111 → 222 → 333, etc.) adds another 111, so you're adding 37 multiplied by three each time. Looking at the sum of the digits (1+1+1 → 2+2+2 → 3 + 3 + 3, etc.), you also happen to be adding three each time. By putting this in a division problem, each jump up means dividing by another three each time. These two effects cancel each other out and you get back to 37. Hand a calculator, pencil, and paper to a volunteer. This trick involves large numbers, so a calculator that has plenty of space will come in handy. Tell him that you'll be reading his mind, so he should keep everything on the paper and calculator hidden from you. This trick also requires some quick thinking on your part. It's nothing harder than addition, but you'll need to be fast and error-free. Instruct a volunteer to write down three positive, consecutive numbers. These can be any whole numbers, but they must be consecutive. (There can be no whole numbers between them.) For example, your volunteer could pick 19, 20, and 21. If the calculator only has room to display eight digits, the numbers must all be between 1 and 21. If it only has room to display six digits, make it 1 to 9. Ask him to multiply the three numbers together. After he finds the answer on the calculator, have him write it down on the piece of paper. In our example, 19 x 20 x 21 = 7980. Tell the volunteer to repeat this for three other consecutive numbers. Next, the person you're "mind reading" secretly picks three more consecutive numbers. He multiplies them together and writes them down next to his first answer. Let's say he picks 12, 13, 14. He multiplies 12 x 13 x 14 = 2184. Have him multiply the two products together. Now the volunteer multiplies his two answers together and writes down the result. 7980 x 2184 = 17428320. Tell the volunteer to shuffle all but one digit. Explain that you only have enough power to read one of the digits from his mind. Ask him to pick one secret digit in the number, then write down the other digits after shuffling them in any order. For example, if he picks 4 as the secret digit, he could shuffle the rest of the digits as 2287013. Add the shuffled digits as he reads them aloud. Remind him that he must keep one digit secret. Have him read the other digits slowly and clearly while you add them in your head. For example, he would read "2... 2... 8... 7... 0... 1... 3." You add these together as he goes, getting a total of 23. Find the secret digit. All of the digits in his answer, including the secret one, will add up to a multiple of 9. Once you know this, there are two ways to find the secret digit. Here they are, using our example: The non-secret digits add up to 23, and you know the next multiple of 9 is 27. Think 27 - 23 = 4, so the last digit must be 4. If you're not sure what the next multiple of 9 is, add the digits in your sum and repeat. For example, 23 → 2 + 3 = 5. Now the next multiple of 9 is 9, and 9 - 5 = 4. Know what to do if the shuffled digits add up to 9. If you add the digits he spoke out loud and you already have a multiple of 9, there are two possibilities. Either the secret digit is 0, or the secret digit is 9. Make a guess at one of them. If you get it wrong, make a joke ("I knew I should have studied harder in telepathy school"), then guess again with the second possibility. Understand why this works. Any three consecutive numbers includes a multiple of 3, so the product of the trio will also be a multiple of 3. Since you repeat this and multiply the two answers together, you are finding the product of two multiples of three. This product is always a multiple of 9 (since 3 x 3 = 9). All multiples of 9 have the property described above, where all of their digits sum to another multiple of 9.	Ask your friend to pick a number. Have your friend double the number. Show him 10 fingers. Divide the answer by 2. Subtract the original number. Announce that the answer is 5. Know why this works. Have someone write down the same digit 3 times. Instruct her to add all three digits together. Divide the larger number by the smaller one. Announce that she's thinking of the number 37. Learn why this works. Hand a calculator, pencil, and paper to a volunteer. Instruct a volunteer to write down three positive, consecutive numbers. Ask him to multiply the three numbers together. Tell the volunteer to repeat this for three other consecutive numbers. Have him multiply the two products together. Tell the volunteer to shuffle all but one digit. Add the shuffled digits as he reads them aloud. Find the secret digit. Know what to do if the shuffled digits add up to 9. Understand why this works.
https://www.wikihow.com/Make-Money-on-eBay	How to Make Money on eBay	To make money on eBay, decide what you want to sell, take high-quality photos of your items, and create listings that are clear and detailed. Be sure to price your items competitively by checking what similar items have sold for in the past! Once you figure out what sells well, look for more of it so you can continue selling that item. As your sales and feedback rating climb, you will begin to gain more customers and bring in more money.	Create an eBay account. If you don't already have one, you'll need to go online and create an account on eBay. The account is free and allows you to operate as a seller or a buyer. Once you have an account, you can log in to My eBay and track your auctions, view bids and send and receive emails. Put some thought into the name you choose for your eBay user ID. This is how you'll be known in the eBay community. Pick something that's memorable but not weird, inoffensive and positive. Look into fees. When you sell on eBay, you can operate under the standard fee arrangement or choose to become a subscriber. Among the differences are the number of free listing you get per month and the add-on fees you'll pay. As someone who's new to selling on eBay, you'll probably want to operate under the standard fee agreement. You'll pay no insertion fees on up to 50 listings per month and be charged a flat 10% final value fee when your item sells. There are three paid subscription accounts available on eBay. Each comes at a slightly different cost per month (from $15.95 to $179.95), a different number of no-insertion-fee listings per month (from 150 to 2,500) and final value fees that range from 4 percent to 9 percent. Open a PayPal Account. PayPal allows your buyers to use a credit card or a checking account to pay for the items they buy from you. It also allows you to sell internationally. Buyers initiate the payment transaction with PayPal, and PayPal, in turn, transfers the money to your account. It's not required that you have a PayPal account in order to sell on eBay, but it can be difficult to succeed without one. Almost 90% of eBay users have a PayPal account. There's a feature on eBay that allows users to search for auctions by checking a box that says “only show sellers who take PayPal.” It's a popular choice for people who don't want to be bothered with writing and mailing a check or using some other form of payment. Decide what to sell. It's best to start by selling things that you already have around your home. Go room by room and look for things you no longer need or wear or perhaps have never even used. Ebay offers an online tool called "Selling Inspiration House." Use it to navigate through a sample home and click on items you could sell and see how much you might earn for everything from shoes to computers. It's also a good idea to look around on eBay to see what other people are selling and at what price. Check to see how many "bids" an item has to try to gauge its popularity. Sell what you know. Not only will you need to write a detailed description of your item, but potential buyers may contact you with questions. It can be difficult to thoroughly explain the benefits of a product and answer detailed inquiries if you're not all that familiar with the item yourself. Determine what sells well and look for more of it. Local garage or estate sales can be a good way to buy things inexpensively that might sell for more on eBay. Start small. While your ultimate goal may be to become an eBay Power Seller, you want to take things one step at a time. Starting with just a few items to sell gives you the chance to learn the ropes and establish yourself as a reputable seller. Like any new enterprise, selling on eBay may present you with some unexpected challenges, and you're bound to make a few mistakes--everybody does. Begin by selling just a few items so you can familiarize yourself with the responsibilities that come with being a seller. To become a truly successful seller, you need to have lots of positive feedback. When you're first starting out, you won't have any. Build your business slowly and give great customer service so that you can earn positive feedback. That way, you'll earn the trust of buyers, who will be more likely to do business with you once they see you're an established and honest seller. Choose how you want to sell. eBay originally functioned as an auction site only, but now you have other options when it comes to putting your items up for sale. Consider how quickly you want to sell your item, whether or not you'd be willing to let it go at lower price than you'd hoped for and how much effort you want to put into the whole selling process. Traditional auction. If you list your item auction-style, you establish an opening bid and then allow a set number of days for buyers to submit their own bids for your item. Whatever the highest bid is at the end of the auction period, that is the final selling price of your item. The hope, of course, is that interest will be high and the price will rise over the auction period so that you come out a winner. You can set an auction to last 3, 5, 7 or 10 days. Sellers with a feedback rating of 10, will also be given the option of a 1-day auction. Many buyers watch items for a while and think about them before placing a bid, so a longer auction could be to your advantage. This choice may not be a good one if you're faint of heart as you have to contend with the stress of watching and waiting to see if the selling price will go up and if you'll break even or ideally make a profit on your item. While it may bring a bit of unwanted drama to your life, using the traditional auction method could pay off. eBay says buyers are twice as likely to buy an item when it's listed auction-style. Reserve. If you want to ensure that an item you list for auction doesn't go for a price you can't live with, you can set a Reserve on the item. A Reserve is the minimum bid you must receive in order to sell your item. If you set a Reserve, be aware that interested buyers may be in touch to find out your Reserve amount, so you may be spending some additional time answering questions. eBay also charges a fee for adding a Reserve. Buy It Now (BIN). The BIN feature lets you set the price you want for an item right from the get-go. Buyers who look at your listing will immediately know the price, and they can purchase straight out. BIN gives you the opportunity to perhaps sell your item quickly for the price you want and be done with it or move on to your next listing. You can list for 3, 5, 7, 10 or 30 days or choose the "Good 'Til Cancelled" option for your Buy It Now listing. You can add a BIN option to an item you have listed for auction. Best Offer. You can add a Best Offer feature to a BIN listing. That way, interested buyers can submit to you a price they'd be willing to pay for your item. You do not have to accept any Best Offer bids that come in unless you want to. You can hold out to see if anyone will purchase your item at the BIN price. Decide on your price. The best way to price an item is to see what similar items have sold for on eBay. Log in to your eBay account and choose "Advanced Search" and check the box marked "Completed Listings" to see what items have sold for across multiple categories. Look at how the items were sold (auction, BIN, Best Offer or Reserve)and pay particular attention to those that used the selling method you've decided to use for your own item. It's important to look for items that are similar to yours in as many ways as possible. That means condition, age, color and a variety of variables should be taken into account when comparing your item to those that have recently sold. You can see information about items that have sold within the last 90 days and for items that didn't sell within the last 30 days. When determining how much to charge for your item, use an eBay profit calculator. It's important to do this so that you will factor in all the costs involved such as fees, shipping, packaging, cost of the item. An item may sell at a loss if calculations are not completed prior to setting a price. Take photos. It won't be enough to simply talk about your item, you have to show buyers what you're offering. In fact, as of July 31, 2013 eBay requires at least one photo for each listing. Photos must be border-less, without seller-added text or artwork and be at least 500 pixels on the longest side. When taking photos of your items, keep your background as simple and clean as possible. Set them up against a white or neutral background. Try clipping a piece of white poster board to a stand and bending it onto a table to serve as a backdrop. If your item sparkles (it's a piece of jewelry, for example) place it on a black background instead. Don't use lighting that creates shadows, hot spots, reflections or gray areas. Avoid using the flash on your camera. Opt instead for soft, natural light or diffused light created by a lightbox or by putting a sheet, gauze or frosted glass in front of your light source. Put your camera on a tripod. No matter how steady you think you can hold your camera, you're better off setting it up on a tripod for taking photos; that's especially true for close-up shots. Blurred images won't show buyers what they want to see, and they'll quickly move on from your listing. Take multiple shots. Take not only a straight-on shot of your item, but photos from multiple angles as well. Be sure to include close-up photos of important details on your item. With the exception of cars, you can post 12 photos per listing for free. Determine how you'll ship. Once you've photographed your item, pack and weigh it so that you can arrive at an accurate shipping price. You can have shipping costs automatically calculated for you, double check the costs yourself or offer free shipping. You can choose "calculated shipping" when you list your item. When you do so, shipping costs will be automatically calculated for your buyer based on the buyer's ZIP code, the weight and the dimensions that you enter for the package. You can preview what shipping costs will be using eBay's Shipping Calculator. You'll enter detailed information about your package (weight, dimensions) your zip code and what shipping services (USPS, FedEx, UPS) you want to use. Offer free shipping. Free shipping allows you to attract more buyers and get higher placement in search results. Also, once a free-shipping transaction is confirmed, it'll earn you a 5-star rating on your "Shipping and Handling Charges Detailed Seller Rating." Write a description of your item. Writing a great description is really key to making money on eBay. You have to tell potential buyers as much as you can about your item and do it in a way that's clear and appealing. Create a clear title. Say what you're selling using appropriate keywords and adding any useful information that might catch a reader's attention (brand name, designer, color). Don't try to be cute or clever; instead, be clear as to exactly what the item is that's up for sale. Write all the pertinent information. Include the item's color, size, model names or numbers, if it comes with accessories, whether it's new or used and if used, how old it is and what kind of condition it's in. Refer to the photos you've taken to write an accurate and complete description. Talk about benefits. It's not enough for potential buyers to know all the features of your item, they need to understand how those features can benefit them. For example, if the the boots you're selling are waterproof, be sure and say "your feet will stay warm and dry." Contact your buyer. Once you've received a winning bid or a buyer has purchased your item, you need to be in touch. If you've chosen to use the online "Checkout" feature, some information will be sent to your buyer, or you can send an invoice via My eBay. Be sure to confirm the following information with the buyer: total price, tax (if applicable), accepted forms of payment, shipping cost, shipping method, expected delivery date and a tracking or Delivery Confirmation number. Receive payment. Before you ship an item to a buyer, you have to receive payment. Buyers are typically good about paying on time--they know their reputation via feedback depends on it. In some cases, you may have to send a gentle reminder to a buyer who is slow to pay. If you fail to receive payment from a buyer, do your best to work it out between the two of you. If your efforts fail, you can go to eBay's Resolution Center and submit an "unpaid item case." Ship the item. As soon as you receive payment, plan to ship out the item. Be sure it's securely wrapped and cushioned with enough packing material so that it'll arrive in good shape. Buyers are often eager to receive their items, so ship on time to ensure that your customer is satisfied and leaves positive feedback. eBay gives you the option of creating a shipping label and packing slip on its site. Get a provide your seller with a tracking or Delivery Confirmation number, doing so can protect you if a buyer claims they never received the item. If you created a shipping label on eBay, the tracking or Delivery Confirmation number is available to you and the buyer in My eBay. Leave feedback. It's not just buyers who leave feedback about their sellers, sellers, too, should leave feedback. This lets others know what it was like to do business with your buyer, helps your buyer improve his reputation (provided it was a good experience) and earns you a reputation as a thoughtful and appreciative seller. Pay your eBay fees. The sale price of your item along with any add-ons (gallery photos, Reserve, etc.) will determine what fees you must pass on to eBay. Be sure to make your payments in a timely fashion to establish yourself as a trustworthy seller. Be a great communicator. Being responsive to interested buyers and your customers is important in any sales situation, but perhaps even more so on eBay where auctions can move quickly and people must rely only on email as a way of being in touch. Check your email frequently so that you can give prompt responses to questions about your items or inquiries regarding payment or shipping. Considering downloading the eBay app to your smartphone so that you can manage your communications more easily. Be friendly in your emails. It's always a good policy to treat people with courtesy. On eBay that can earn you repeat customers and great feedback. Give timely feedback. You have the opportunity after every transaction to give feedback about your buyer. Do it. And do it in a timely way. eBay success is built on reputations. Be generous and quick in giving feedback in the hopes that your buyers will do the same for you. Don't withhold feedback--waiting for comments from buyers first before you post feedback about them; you'll seem petty. Unless a transaction was particularly horrific, come up with something positive to say to your buyer. Even a simple "Thank you for your business" is better than not leaving any feedback at all. Go wholesale. You can purchase small wholesale lots of products that most people use on a daily basis and make those the focus of your eBay business. There are a lot of products that fit this description. Do you want to sell clothing or home decoration, beauty supplies or kitchen items? Make a decision, do some research on your market and learn how to target buyers and meet their needs. Find a niche. One of the most common reasons buyers turn to eBay is to find unusual items that they can't find anywhere else. Browse through eBay's community groups to see all the folks who share common interests (stamp collectors,knitters, stay-at-home moms, vegans, etc.) and sell items that appeal to their specific needs and desires. Become a Power Seller. Power Sellers represent an elite 4 percent of eBay sellers. A Power Seller designation tells buyers that you are trustworthy, honest and offer a fair deal, which in turn brings more buyers your way. Not only that, Power Sellers enjoy a number of advantages and benefits and special access from eBay. Depending on their level, these can include priority customer and technical support, discounts from UPS and even health insurance. Power Seller must meet a list of eligibility requirements. Be an active member for 90 days. Average a minimum of $1000 in sales per month for three consecutive months. Maintain a minimum of four average monthly listings for three consecutive months. Have an overall feedback rating of 100, of which 98% or more is positive. Have an account in good financial standing. Uphold the eBay community values, including honesty, timeliness and mutual respect Comply with all eBay listing and marketplace policies.	Create an eBay account. Look into fees. Open a PayPal Account. Decide what to sell. Start small. Choose how you want to sell. Decide on your price. Take photos. Determine how you'll ship. Write a description of your item. Contact your buyer. Receive payment. Ship the item. Leave feedback. Pay your eBay fees. Be a great communicator. Give timely feedback. Go wholesale. Find a niche. Become a Power Seller.
https://www.wikihow.com/Clean-White-Wall-Tires	How to Clean White Wall Tires	To keep your whitewall tires looking fresh, you'll want to clean them around every 2 weeks. Use a commercial whitewall tire cleaner, which will clean your tires without drying them out like regular cleaners. If the whitewalls are still a little discolored, there are a few ways you can whiten them. You can wipe them with a damp cloth and baking soda, buff them with sandpaper, or rub them with eraser cleaning pads. After cleaning your tires, you can apply a tire dressing to make them shiny and protect them from harmful UV rays. Just apply the foam to the applicator and rub it onto your tires.	Use a specialized cleaner. Look for a specialized whitewall tire cleaner in the automotive section of a department store or hardware store. Regular cleaners like Comet can work well to remove dirt and discoloration on the tires, but they can dry out the tires in the process, leading to early wear. Cleaning products containing alcohol or chlorine bleach should be avoided for the same reason. For the best results, opt for all-natural whitewall tire cleaners (e.g. Simple Green). Wet the tires and cleaning pad. Use an SOS pad for regular cleaning of whitewall tires. Use a hose to wet the tires. Wet the SOS pad as well. Apply the cleaning product. If your chosen tire cleaning product is in spray form, spray it directly onto wet tires. If it is a liquid, mix the product in a bucket with water (as per the directions on the label). Soak your SOS pad in the mixture. Scrub tires thoroughly. Put a generous effort into cleaning your whitewall tires thoroughly. The effectiveness of the cleaning is just as contingent on the duration and intensity of the scrubbing as it is to the products used. If the work is too intense to tackle on your own, enlist the help of a friend or family member. Rinse off your tires. Rinse your tires every few minutes while you wash them to see how clean they are getting. Reapply your cleaning product and continue until you are satisfied with the results after rinsing. After you have scrubbed your tires clean, use the hose to rinse them off thoroughly. Use baking soda. Sprinkle baking soda onto a damp cloth or sponge. Wipe the surface of your whitewall tires in small, circular motions. Rinse the tires clean. Rinse the cloth and reapply baking soda every few minutes until you're satisfied with the results. Try eraser cleaning pads. To whiten your tires, try eraser cleaning pads (like Mr. Clean Magic Eraser pads). Wet both the pad and your tires and wipe the tires down in small, circular motions. For best results, rinse or replace the pads between tires. Use sand paper to remove stubborn yellowing. If tires remain yellowed after persistent cleaning, sand the top layer of the white part with fine, dry sand paper. Sand away the yellowed layer slowly and gently until a bright white layer emerges underneath. Rinse tires clean with the hose. Clean them at least every two weeks. To keep your whitewall tires clean and avoid having to give them a heavy duty cleaning, take the time to wash them at least every two weeks. Use water, whitewall tire cleaner and a rag or sponge. If you do this cleaning frequently enough (e.g. every week), a gentle soap should be effective enough to use. If there is persistent dirt or discoloration, which is less likely if tires are regularly cleaned, use a stronger whitewall tire cleaner and scrub pad. Use tire dressing. After cleaning whitewall tires, use a water-based dressing to give your tires shine and protect them from harmful UV rays. Purchase the dressing and a foam applicator for it in the automotive department of most department stores, or online. Apply the foam to the applicator and wipe it onto your tires evenly until the desired effect is reached. Give them ample space in storage. When storing your whitewall tires, give them ample space so that they don't have to lean against each other. This may cause the black rubber of the tires to rub against the white rubber, smudging them. If you do have to lean them against each other, separate the tires with plastic sheeting or store them in individual bags.	Use a specialized cleaner. Wet the tires and cleaning pad. Apply the cleaning product. Scrub tires thoroughly. Rinse off your tires. Use baking soda. Try eraser cleaning pads. Use sand paper to remove stubborn yellowing. Clean them at least every two weeks. Use tire dressing. Give them ample space in storage.
https://www.wikihow.com/Simmer	How to Simmer	If a recipe calls for you to simmer something, place the pot or pan over a burner and set the heat to medium-low. Watch the dish closely and wait until you see bubbles start to break the surface. If the recipe calls for a slow simmer, you want the bubbles to appear every 1-2 seconds. If it calls for a rapid simmer, the bubbles should form continuously. Once your dish starts simmering, continue to adjust the heat as necessary so it doesn't start to boil. If it does start to boil, lower the temperature.	Read the recipe closely. In most cases, a recipe will suggest one of two ways to do it. It may ask you to bring the liquid of a dish to a simmer, which means to slowly bring the liquid to just below boiling point over low heat. The other common direction is to bring the liquid of a dish to the boiling point first, and then reduce it to a simmer. The two techniques yield different results, so it's important to practice them properly. Set the heat to medium-low for a gradual simmer. Place the dish you're cooking on the burner and start off at a medium to low heat. Stay near the stovetop, since you will probably need to adjust the heat up or down as the liquid is brought up to a simmer. It's a good rule of thumb to never turn your back on a simmer in progress until you're sure you've reached a point of constant simmering. Experiment with a pot of water if you want to practice first. Try out different heat settings to get a feel for how the cooking liquid appears at different temperatures. Observe the amount of bubbles rising to the surface. You know something is simmering when there are pockets of tiny, continuous bubbles breaking the surface with irregular wisps of steam. Simmering is most commonly used to allow the flavors of a dish to infuse and to slow-cook meats until they are tender. A “slow simmer” is when a couple of tiny bubbles erupt every 1 or 2 seconds. A slow simmer is most often used to slow-cook stocks. A “rapid simmer” happens when larger pockets of small, continuous bubbles erupt at the surface, displaying wisps of steam, with larger bubbles beginning to show. A rapid simmer is sometimes referred to as a gentle boil; it's mostly used to thicken liquid into sauce. Test for a temperature between 185°F (85°C) and 205°F (96°C) . If you have a cooking thermometer, you can always test the liquid to find out if you've achieved a simmer. Most people don't use a thermometer – they gauge by observation. You'll get more experienced at this as you go along. Temperatures between 185°F (85°C) and 205°F (96°C) are considered simmering. The range is relatively high because there are different levels of simmering, starting with a slow simmer and going up to a rapid simmer. Regulate the heat to maintain a constant simmer. Once you've reached the simmering point, you will need to adjust the heat between medium-low and low to maintain a constant simmer. Slightly adjust the heat up or down as needed. Once you've achieved a steady simmer, you will still need to stir the liquid occasionally. Whenever you introduce new ingredients to simmering liquid, the heat will definitely need to be adjusted. Some liquids and sauces require more frequent stirring than others. Check your recipe for details. Stay at your stove to supervise during this initial stage until you get a feel for how often it needs to be stirred. Follow the recipe instructions to start the sauce. Many recipes will ask you to make the sauce's foundation and then simmer it for a certain amount of time. This will “reduce” the sauce. Essentially, this means to thicken the sauce's consistency. When you reduce a sauce , the ingredients develop through a period of simmering into a thicker, richer, more flavorful substance. The longer you simmer the sauce, the thicker it will become and the more it will “reduce.” The most commonly reduced sauces are tomato sauce, Béchamel sauce, balsamic reduction sauce, red wine reduction sauce and most sauces that begin with meat drippings. White sauces typically aren't reduced. Reduce the heat to low. Once you've created the foundation of your sauce, reduce the heat to low to bring it down to a simmer. You've reached a “simmer” when you see tiny, continuous bubbles breaking the surface of the sauce. You'll also see irregular wisps of steam rise up from the sauce. As you're bringing your sauce down to a simmer, stir it frequently. It's best to stay with the sauce at least until a steady simmer is achieved. Avoid turning your back to do something else at this stage. Keep an eye on the sauce. Regulate the heat and stir occasionally. You may need to adjust the heat between medium-low and low to maintain simmering for an extended period of time. Once you've achieved a steady simmer, you can leave the sauce alone for longer periods of time without too much worry. You do need to return to the sauce to stir it occasionally. Regulating the heat properly and frequent stirring helps to prevent a sauce form getting burned. Keep a close eye on this. If it does burn and you don't notice, you'll end up stirring charred bits from the bottom of the pan into your sauce. Avoid scraping anything against the bottom of the pan if you've burned the sauce. Some sauces need more frequent stirring than others, so stay with your sauce for a while until you get a feel for how much stirring is required. Regulate the heat as needed to maintain the simmer. Simmer the sauce until the desired consistency is acquired. Some recipes will give you specific directions how long something needs to simmer. Others will tell you to simmer until you've reached the thickness you want. Many sauces can be simmered for hours, gradually growing thicker and more flavorful over time. Italian tomato sauce is a great example of a sauce that can be simmered over a period of hours to “reduce” it. The longer the sauce is simmered, the thicker and more “reduced” it becomes. The flavors become infused and rich. As long as you stir your sauce occasionally and maintain a steady simmer by regulating the temperature, your reduction will go smoothly. Spread vegetable oil all over the meat. Instead of coating the skillet with vegetable oil, coat the pieces of meat with it. You will actually end up using less oil that way, so it's a more heart-healthy approach. The meat will brown better, as well. In general, the ideal cuts of meat for this are tough and inexpensive. When simmered over time, they become tender. This approach works best for red meats like beef and lamb. If you're working from a recipe, make sure to reference those directions frequently. Brown the meat in a skillet over medium high-heat. A cast-iron skillet is the best choice for this. Place the oil-coated pieces of meat into a medium-sized skillet over medium-high heat. Instead of putting all the meat in at once, brown the pieces in small batches. Use a utensil to move the meat around frequently so that it browns evenly. Remove each batch after browning. Put the browned meat on a clean plate and set it to the side. Pour the liquid in the skillet and bring it to a boil. After browning all of the meat and removing it from the skillet, pour in your cooking liquid. Depending on that you're cooking, this will be some kind of stock or possibly wine. The heat should remain at a medium-high level until the liquid has reached a rolling boil. You know it's boiling when bubbles are vigorously breaking on the surface and the liquid is moving and churning in the skillet. Reduce the heat to low to bring it to a simmer. Once you've reached the boiling point, lower the heat to bring the liquid down to a simmer. You'll know it's simmering when you see pockets of tiny, continuous bubbles breaking the surface, along with irregular wisps of steam. The liquid should be at the simmering point before you add the meat back to the skillet. Adding the meat to a simmering liquid will help it be as tender as possible. Put the browned meat back into the skillet. Once you've reached the simmer point, carefully add the pieces of meat back into the skillet. Regulate the heat as necessary and stir occasionally. You'll probably need to adjust the heat between medium-low and low to maintain simmering. These basic guidelines are universal to get the simmer process started for most meats. The simmer time depends on the type of meat and what you're making.	Read the recipe closely. Set the heat to medium-low for a gradual simmer. Observe the amount of bubbles rising to the surface. Test for a temperature between 185°F (85°C) and 205°F (96°C) . Regulate the heat to maintain a constant simmer. Follow the recipe instructions to start the sauce. Reduce the heat to low. Regulate the heat and stir occasionally. Simmer the sauce until the desired consistency is acquired. Spread vegetable oil all over the meat. Brown the meat in a skillet over medium high-heat. Pour the liquid in the skillet and bring it to a boil. Reduce the heat to low to bring it to a simmer. Put the browned meat back into the skillet.
https://www.wikihow.com/Avoid-Letting-Pessimistic-People-Get-You-Down	How to Avoid Letting Pessimistic People Get You Down	To avoid letting pessimistic people get you down, try to stay focused on yourself and your own happiness rather than worrying about others. Remind yourself that you are in control of your own feelings and reactions towards pessimism. Also, it's usually best to avoid wasting time trying to get a pessimist to see your point of view. Instead, accept that this person chooses to think negatively, just as you choose to think positively. If their behavior is impossible to tune out, you can let the person know how their negativity is affecting you or distance yourself from them.	Focus on yourself. Sometimes we can spend so much time worrying about others and how they are feeling that we lose sight of ourselves. Take responsibility for your own feelings and reactions towards pessimism. By focusing on your own happiness and less on others, you take the power away from negativity. Remind yourself that you are in control. You are in control of how much you let another person's feelings and thoughts affect you. For example, even though pessimism is hard to listen to, understand that the other person's pessimism is a reflection of themselves and you can only control your own feelings. You have the power to dictate what affects how you are feeling. Change your thinking. Using logic as a coping resource is associated with higher mental toughness. Stay positive. Research suggests that optimism may increase mental toughness. This means that your own optimistic outlook can help you combat pessimism and the spill-over from negativity. Look for some good in everything and remind yourself that anyone can find flaws in anything when looked at closely enough; what's a lot harder is coming up with solutions and positive actions. Instead of seeking to persuade the pessimist verbally with upbeat commentary, simply get on with your positive life and let your behavior and actions do all the talking. If you find yourself feeling down around the pessimist, make a mental list (or even write it down if you wish) of five good things in your life. Think of the items on this list in your head as a sort of "shield" against negativity if you find yourself reacting to it. Actively cultivate positive friendships with other optimistic people. Spending more time around optimists will help raise your mood and reassure you that your state of mind is the right one for you. Focus on the person’s good qualities. The individual's outlook on things isn't her only feature - there are many more complex qualities within a person, so rather than fixating on the negatives, look for the good things. Is she intelligent? Supportive of you? Is she unique enough not to care what anyone else thinks about her? Is she good to work with? Focus on the positive aspects of a person and seek to balance out the negatives. Just as you might make a list of the five positive things in your life, try to make a list of at least three positive things about your pessimist and run these through your mind when dealing with this person gets tough. You can also draw on this list to remind the pessimist of what she is good at, in case it seems she has forgotten. Find compassion for the pessimist in your life by remembering that her pessimism might be rooted in unhappiness or low-self esteem. When you hear negativity, remind yourself that she may be going through something very difficult that is contributing to her pessimism. Give up control. Understand that you do not have control over other people's thoughts or behaviors. Expect the pessimist to have responsibility for her pessimism. She may see the negatives, therefore let her own her interpretation of events and life in general. Accept that this person has a choice to think the way she does. Tell the pessimist to make the choice that she feels most comfortable with. Avoid giving advice or pushing the person to see or do things your way. Avoid trying to be a hero. Resist the innate desire to attempt to cheer the pessimist up. What you want to avoid is positively reinforcing her negative thoughts by providing a reward for pessimistic thinking (attention, positivity, etc). Don't seek to persuade the pessimist that everything will work out fine. Remember that you cannot control how she will interpret the situation. Practice acceptance. Don't be too quick to dismiss people due to their pessimism. Learning to get along with people who are not like us is an important part of self-development and socialization. Being pessimistic isn't always bad. Some philosophers and researchers have argued it may actually make people happier and closer to reality because they will be more prepared and less disappointed if they consider that the worst outcome might occur. Thus, when bad things do happen, they may be better at dealing with them. Be assertive. Give feedback and help your pessimistic friend understand her effect on others. Be mature in your interactions with her. Be respectfully honest. If the pessimistic person is bothering you in some way or affecting you negatively, let her know. Say you're sorry that she sees things that way but you see things differently. Use “I statements.” I feel ____ when you ______. Focus on your own feelings rather than on the other person's actions. Avoid labeling. Telling a person who has pessimistic thinking that she is a pessimist will most likely be unhelpful and could lead to conflict. Re-frame negativity. One thing you can do is attempt to offer alternative ways of looking at the problem. Remember though, you are not trying to save her from pessimism or cheer her up. You are simply expressing your opinion and disagreeing with her view of the situation. Create boundaries. You may need to spend time apart from this person or distance yourself. Setting boundaries on what you discuss with the person and how long you bathe in her influence can be useful ways of overcoming your dislike of being in her presence. Do not just ignore her; that would be considered passive-aggressive communication. Limit your interactions if necessary. However, if she is your friend, coworker or family member you may not be able, nor wish, to avoid her. In this case, minimizing the amount of time spent around her can be beneficial to your own sense of well-being. Be nurturing. Exercise compassion when dealing with others who think differently from you. If the pessimist doesn't want to do something that you do, be empathetic about her worries or plight. This is a kind, yet subtle, way to highlight the thing she is being negative about - by focusing on it directly and expressing sympathy for her worry, and pain. Be understanding and supportive without validating the negativity. For example, tell a pessimist who is disinclined join you in an activity that she can go home/not come, while you go ahead and do it anyway. Say something like, "I'm sorry this is hard on you. Go ahead and do whatever it is you need to feel better (go home/not come/stay here/do the easier task, etc.)." Know the signs of pessimism. Initially, because of your own sunny attitude, you might not be alert to the pessimistic bent of another person. It is helpful to understand these patterns in order to be able to detect them in yourself. Signs of negative thinking include: Thinking that things aren't going to work out well. This is also known as catastrophizing, or thinking the worst will happen. Believing that the negative outcomes are permanent and inescapable. May blame self or others for things not turning out well. Understand possible underlying issues. A possible reason for the existence of pessimistic thinking is depression. If this is the case, the pessimist may need psychological or medical treatment. See How to cope with depression for an explanation of the symptoms. If you are concerned that your friend or family member has a mental health issue you can express your worry to her and offer treatment as an option. Simply say, "I noticed you seem sad (or angry, or negative) lately, have you ever considered talking to a professional about it? I think this might help." Be careful not to be pushy or you may scare her off. Continue to educate yourself about pessimism. The more you know, the less personal it might feel when pessimistic thinking is around you. With education comes understanding and an increased ability to cope. One option is to read the book, Learned Optimism , by Martin Seligman. Dr. Seligman is a psychologist and expert in the field of positive psychology. He offers ways to identify if you are more optimistic or pessimistic, as well as ways to cope. This can be a useful resource both for the pessimist and optimist, and teaches tools to learn how to be more optimistic.	Focus on yourself. Change your thinking. Focus on the person’s good qualities. Give up control. Avoid trying to be a hero. Practice acceptance. Be assertive. Re-frame negativity. Create boundaries. Be nurturing. Know the signs of pessimism. Understand possible underlying issues. Continue to educate yourself about pessimism.
https://www.wikihow.com/Be-a-Fashionista	How to Be a Fashionista	You can be a fashionista by reading fashion magazines to keep up with current trends. You can also follow style icons on Facebook, Twitter, and Instagram for fashion inspiration and advice. When it comes to your own wardrobe, start by purchasing some basic essentials like plain t-shirts, camisoles, and cardigans to pair with statement pieces. Then, spend some quality time in front of the mirror mixing and matching to find outfit combinations you feel great in.	Look for fashion inspiration everywhere. Fashion is all around us, and by reading, watching and learning new things about the world and fashion, you will be inspired and in time become a fashionista. Start looking at the world as your canvas and create, whether it be by styling different clothing garments together, or sketching ideas of clothing garments you'd like to recreate or find in a store. Keep your eyes open for fashion. Fashionistas may be equally influenced by Gucci as by music, fine art, or poetry. Think about fashion as an art form, if you want to be real fashionista. Stay up on the trends in the industry. Watch what celebs and designers are wearing, and try to recreate those looks into your daily outfits as a fashionista. Try not to copy the looks exactly, but try to put your spin on things. Knowing what's coming will really help you out in getting the goods before stores realize they can charge you twice as much as it is worth. Look for things you've never seen before, and wouldn't necessarily buy at first. When you see what's coming into new stores that you find strange, it might mean that this is the next big thing. Do your fashion research on social media. On your personal Facebook, Twitter, and Instagram pages, follow as many style and fashion icons as possible. This way, you can get instant fashion updates at your fingertips. Search popular fashion hashtags and regularly go digging for new and surprising style inspirations online. Pinterest and Wanelo are great fashion-forward social networking pages that can help connect you with the fashion world. Start a profile and start saving things you like until you begin to develop a style you like that is all your own. Check out the "recommended" clothes that are near the things you save. In Wanelo, you can go to the "Magic" section which provides things they think you'll like based on your recent saves. Buy fashion magazines. Fashion magazines are one of the classic touchstones of being a fashionable person. Particularly look out for magazines like Vogue or Marie Claire where the photography of the adverts can be as informative as the articles themselves. Magazines can give you some basic information about the fashion world. Carefully examine the details on photos. What is in now and what is not? Discover new fashion trends. Pay attention to the way of clothing and allow it to inspire you as to how you can wear your own clothes. Can't afford to subscribe to that many fashion magazines? Read them at the bookstore, or head to the library and check out their subscription. Buck trends. If you want to be a fashionista, you don't have to like what everyone is wearing. By the time you figure out what's trendy and start dressing like other people, it'll be old hat. You don't have to look like the trend-setters out there, and you shouldn't want to. Aim to have your own style. Get some solid essentials. Don't just go out and buy a bunch of really cool pieces that match with one thing in your closet. You will soon feel that you are running out of clothes when truthfully you just bought a ton of statement pieces like a cool floral skirt with no plain tops to match it with. Get things like camisoles, plain sweaters and cardigans, a plain skirt, and a few neutral-colored dresses, so you'll have as many options as possible to match. If you aren't quite ready for wild colors, just go with black to make sure you'll have choices. Get plenty of shoe options. The right pair of shoes can make or break a fashionable outfit. Even a simple pair of form-fitting jeans with a cute top can look suddenly spiced up with a surprising pair of pumps. Shoes should be cute and comfortable, and you should have a variety of them to spice up your different looks. Boots are super important. They always elongate the leg and make you look super toned. They also can go almost all year long. They are classic and won't go out of style. A cute but casual pair of flats is important for any wardrobe. That does not mean running sneakers. Invest in a great pair of heels that will last a long time. Then you can get other ones you just like for some special occasions. Shop smart. Fashion's a great hobby, as long as you can afford it. If you're on a budget, it's important to set a particular amount out of your funds that you're allowed to spend on money per month and stay strictly in that limit. You don't have to sacrifice style for cash, though, and you can learn to find quality items for cheap. Price items at different stores and always go back and compare. Don't go just to one fashion store and settle for what you find. Make sure you do the rounds and keep track of different items you hope to purchase. Find the right stores. You can always splurge once and a while on a real statement piece that you know is something you'll never find anywhere else but try to stay within that budget. There's a difference between Fashionista and shopaholic. Learn how to accessorize properly. Jewelry, cute hats, earrings, necklaces, and bracelets are helpful in allowing you to create different looks from the same items in your wardrobe. Find what looks right for you and look at the outfit as a whole in the mirror with it so you don't over accessorize by mistake. Invest in affordable scarves, jewelry, and shoes to accessorize your outfits. They make a big difference in any simple outfit, and you can get away with having a wide variety of cheap items that accent your other pieces. Learn how to sew and make your own garments. When you truly develop your own style, sometimes you'll picture such an ideal outfit and you go on a mad hunt for it. And you won't find it. Instead of being disappointed, learn how to make it yourself! You can learn to mend your favorite items and keep them looking fresh and new, as well as how to make up new items as you go along, just for the cost of materials. This can be a real cost-saver, and a great way to make statements. Purge your wardrobe regularly. Every couple of months, it's important to get rid of clothes you won't wear anymore. Give old clothes to charity, or have "Naked Lady" parties, in which you get together with a bunch of your fashionable friends and trade items you don't want anymore. You can save interesting T-shirts, or old jeans which are not popular now if you think you can combine it with some other things to get unique look, but it's usually easier to purge focus on working with what you like in the here and now. Learn to mix and match the clothes you already have. A lot of people assume you need the latest trends to be fashionable, but this doesn't necessarily have to be true. If you mix a plain white t-shirt with denim jeans one day and a black pencil skirt another, you've got two outfits right there made with a minimum of items. Practice organizing your clothes into different looks when you've got free-time. Spend some quality mirror time trying on different things together and experimenting to see what you looks right. Find out what looks good on you and what doesn't. Something might be fashionable in general, but it's not right for you and your body type. That's ok. It's important to figure out not only what's stylish and what's "in," but what's going to look good on you. It's good to spend time in front of mirror discovering the perfect combination of items for you. Find out the clothes which defines your body shape best and will help accent your best features. Wear what makes you feel confident. To be a fashionista you need to be confident. The number one rule in fashion is to wear what you want to wear, so always wear what you want and choose items that will help you feel comfortable and radiant. Hold your head up high and improve that posture. People started to notice that you're dressed nice if you're walking with your head up. Be proud and get noticed. Don't wear something just because it's "fashionable," or because someone recommended it. Fashion changes. If you used to love wearing blazers a year ago, but now you want to try leather jackets, go for it. Life is short and a fashionista should always wears what she wants. Don't over-do it. Although runway fashion can be very over-the-top and glamorous, sometimes less is more. You don't need to wear a fancy dress to school to be a fashionista. Just be yourself and find clothing that you feel represent you, and make you feel beautiful and confident. Try and separate runway fashion from everyday fashion. The designers of those elaborate garments are mostly wearing normal everyday clothes, just like you. Keep that in mind. Have a positive attitude. Fashionistas need to mimic the beauty your fashions exudes on the outside by being beautiful on the inside. Being a fashionista means nothing if your attitude is not positive. Be happy, and enjoy life. Fashion is wonderful, but brand names and style aren't everything. Learn to be you and love you, and soon your inner fashionista will shine.	Look for fashion inspiration everywhere. Stay up on the trends in the industry. Do your fashion research on social media. Buy fashion magazines. Buck trends. Get some solid essentials. Get plenty of shoe options. Shop smart. Learn how to accessorize properly. Learn how to sew and make your own garments. Purge your wardrobe regularly. Learn to mix and match the clothes you already have. Find out what looks good on you and what doesn't. Wear what makes you feel confident. Don't over-do it. Have a positive attitude.
https://www.wikihow.com/Enunciate	How to Enunciate	To enunciate, start by showing your teeth when you speak to give your lips more space and create a larger opening for sound. Next, practice tongue twisters such as “Silly Susan sells sea shells by the seashore.” You can also try speaking with a pencil in your mouth to make your mouth and tongue work much harder. Make sure you do these exercises in the mirror and exaggerate your facial movements. Additionally, speak slowly and steadily and stand up straight so you can breathe more easily.	Watch yourself talk in a mirror. Talk at a mirror as you watch the movements of your mouth, jaw, tongue, and lips. Make these movements as big and noticeable as possible. This will improve your enunciation, and help you identify which sounds are difficult for you. Continue to watch yourself in the mirror as you practice the steps below. Show your teeth. Surprisingly, this can help a lot. Showing your teeth gives your lips more space, tightens your cheeks, and creates a larger opening for sound. These changes improve your audibility and intelligibility. And if you don't believe it, try saying "audibility and intelligibility" with your lips together, and then with your teeth showing. Aim for a pleasant, happy expression, but not a full-blown smile. Your cheeks shouldn't feel sore after holding a short conversation. Lift up your soft palate. That's the soft part in the back of the roof of your mouth. Singers are trained to raise the soft palate in order to achieve a fuller, more resonant tone. Try inhaling gently as you make a soft k sound, and your soft palate will rise. A small, unvoiced yawn complements the inhale, by warming up different muscles around your soft palate. Avoid exaggerated yawning or gulping to achieve this. Anything more than a gentle effort is counterproductive. Keep the tongue forward and down. Obviously, your tongue will be moving while you speak, but it's still worth practicing a neutral position that doesn't interfere with the passage of sounds. Try hanging your tongue out of your mouth, then gradually pulling it back until it is just behind the lower teeth, touching their base. Your tongue can produce many vowel sounds with minimal movement from this position, mostly by raising and lowering the middle of the tongue instead of the tip. This is especially important while you are singing, or when trying to address certain types of lisp. Stand up straight. This allows you to breathe better. Sound is created by the air being forced out of your lungs, so the clearer your breathing, the clearer your speech. Look straight ahead, so your jaw is flat instead of lowered compressing your throat. When talking to someone roughly the same height as you, maintaining eye contact is a good way to ensure your chin stays raised. Speak slowly and steadily. If you speak quickly, you are much more likely to slur your words. Even if you stutter, the best approach is to pause and attempt the word again, not to rush through it. Go through some consonant-vowel combinations. This gets you practice in most common sounds, and is also helpful for "warming up" your voice before a speech. Try these common vowels with a few consonants, or even going through the whole alphabet: "Bah Beh Bee Bih Bo Boo Buh" "Vah Veh Vee Vih Vo Voo Vuh" (et cetera) For more of a challenge, include the vowel "aw," which is similar but distinct from "ah" in most dialects. You can also include combination consonants such as "SL" and "PR" Practice diphthongs. Diphthongs are vowels that require you to move your tongue from one position to another as you pronounce them. Practice saying these words slowly, identifying the two mouth positions you use during the vowel. Then try to speed up and say the words more quickly while keeping your mouth movements precise. Spend more time in the first part of the vowel than the second, and your speech will sound clearer and more refined. Ache mate paid saint stray Eye nice rhyme pie height Voice noise coin Load toad flow Crowd sprout found Air square prayer (not always considered a diphthong, but still good practice) Cute few ewes Onion union million Don't worry too much if you can't identify the two vowel sounds in some of these. Different dialects of English often pronounce diphthongs differently, or even as single vowels. Practice tongue twisters. Try to articulate each word in a tongue twister, especially one that contains sounds you find difficult to pronounce. Start out slowly, and go faster once you can pronounce it perfectly. Here are a few tongue twisters for common problem sounds, which you can find more of here : James just jostled Jean gently. Round the rugged rocks the ragged rascal ran. Silly Susan sells sea shells by the seashore. Record yourself speaking. Read a book (or even this article) out loud into a voice recorder. Try to articulate every sound clearly so that you can be heard. It may help to set up the recording device a short distance from yourself, then to increase the distance each time and try to keep your speech just as clear. You can probably find a voice recorder on your computer or online. Your phone may have a voice recorder too, but it may not be high enough quality for enunciation practice. Practice with a pencil in your mouth. Hold a pencil, chopstick, pen, or similar object horizontal been your teeth, and repeat the speaking drills above. By making your tongue and mouth work much harder around a physical speech impediment, enunciating will become easier when you are speaking normally without any obstruction in the way of your speaking. Vary your speaking speed. People have trouble understanding speech that is too fast to follow, or slurred because you're speaking too fast for your tongue to follow. Read aloud while concentrating on the flow of the content, slowing down to emphasize important points and speeding up slightly during exciting moments. Children's books (with full paragraphs) are a good choice, since they tend to focus on emotion and have a simple style to follow. You can also try recording yourself speaking out loud, then counting the number of words per minute you use. Although "normal" speed depends on region, culture, and other variables, most people speak at a rate between 120 and 200 words per minute. Pause intentionally. Read aloud again at a slow or moderate pace, this time focusing on the punctuation. Pause at commas and periods, and take a moment to clear your throat or inhale deeply at the end of a paragraph. Try to include these intentional pauses in your speech as well, so the listener has time to process what you have said, and help you avoid tripping over your words. If you experience unintentional, gulping pauses, methods of overcoming public speaking could help keep this under control. Speak loudly but clearly. There's an art of projecting your voice, or increasing your volume without sounding hoarse or flat. Look in the mirror and place your hand on your stomach, then breathe in and out deeply. Inhale from the diaphragm, below the stomach, not from the upper lungs. If your shoulders remain level during this exercise, you're doing it right. Maintain this type of breathing as you practice greeting yourself in the mirror from farther and farther distances, or just keep adding volume gradually without forcing too much or experiencing a scratchy sensation. Focus on this exercise if people ask you to speak up or repeat yourself frequently, or if you are training to give a spoken presentation.	Watch yourself talk in a mirror. Show your teeth. Lift up your soft palate. Keep the tongue forward and down. Stand up straight. Speak slowly and steadily. Go through some consonant-vowel combinations. Practice diphthongs. Practice tongue twisters. Record yourself speaking. Practice with a pencil in your mouth. Vary your speaking speed. Pause intentionally. Speak loudly but clearly.
https://www.wikihow.com/Play-Murder	How to Play Murder	Murder is a fun game for 10 people or more where 1 player is the murderer and the others have to guess who it is. To set up the game, choose 1 person to be out each round. Then, have everyone close their eyes. The person who's out should tap the shoulder of someone to be the murderer. Once a murderer has been chosen, all of the players should open their eyes and start walking in straight lines. Players can only turn at 90-degree angles. Every time they pass another player, they have to shake hands. The murderer can lightly scratch anyone's palm with their pinky finger to kill them, but they don't have to kill everyone. When a player is scratched, they need to count for 10 seconds in their head while walking around, then pretend to die. At any point, players can say aloud who they think the murderer is. If they're right, they win the game, but if they're wrong, they die too. Keep playing until the murderer is discovered.	Pick someone who will not be playing. If no one volunteers, try playing rock, paper, scissors or drawing straws. Then you can take turns with who sits out if you play multiple games. This person will either control the light switch of the room or hold a flashlight. They can pause the game at any time, and ask someone if they know who the murderer is. They will also turn the lights off at the beginning of the game. Pick a murderer. You can do this a few different ways. Either the person who is not playing can choose a murderer or you can randomly choose one using a deck of cards or pieces of paper. For example, have everyone stand in a circle and close their eyes. The person sitting out can then tap someone on the shoulder and that person will be the murderer. To use a deck of cards, use all non-face cards except one. The person who draws the face card will then be the murderer. The same can be done with slips of paper. Gather as many slips as you have players and keep them all blank except one. On one piece of paper draw an X, then whoever gets this piece of paper is the murderer. Begin the game. Everyone must walk as if they are walking in a grid. This means straight lines and ninety-degree turns. There is no set pattern to follow, you just want to make sure everyone isn't bumping into each other. However, you should be passing other players frequently. You must also shake the hand of everyone you pass. Scratch the inside of other players’ wrists. If you are the murderer, you want to kill as many players as you can before you get caught. The way to do this is by scratching the inside of another player's wrist with your index finger while shaking their hand. Remember, it's not necessary to kill every person whose hand you shake. Especially since this will make it obvious that you're the killer. Wait ten seconds before “dying. ” As a player, if the inside of your wrist is scratched, you must wait ten seconds before you officially “die.” This helps add to the mystery of who the killer is, as you will likely have shaken someone else's hand right after the murderer's. Feel free to be as dramatic with your death as you want. You can fling yourself to the floor, scream, fake cry - it's up to you! Try to guess who the murderer is. While the game is taking place, players are free to guess who they think the murderer is. For example, someone might say “Jason, are you the murderer?” If they're correct, then the game ends and you can start a new one. However, if they're wrong, they “die” and have to leave the game. Once the murderer is discovered, the game is officially over. Choose a murderer. You can do this in a few different ways. One way is to get a bowl or paper bag and cut/tear a piece of paper into small slips. On one piece of paper, write M for the murderer and leave the other slips blank. The player who gets the M will be the killer. You can also use a deck of cards. For example, use non-face cards (i.e. anything that's not a King, Queen, or Jack) and then mix one face card into them. Whoever pulls the face card will then be the murderer. Sit in a circle and hold hands. Once the murderer has been chosen, you want to have everyone get into a circle and hold hands. This is necessary as the murderer will have to pass along a “squeeze” to kill his or her victims. Once you are ready to begin, make sure to have someone turn out the lights. Start the squeeze. Whoever the murderer is can wait as long as they want until they start the squeeze. However, they can only squeeze the hands of the people to the right and left of them. These are the people that will help pass it along until it reaches the victim. For example, let's say the murderer squeezes the hand of the person on their right three times. The person on their right must then squeeze the hand of the person next to them two times, and so on until it reaches one squeeze. Whoever's hand is squeezed one time must then “die.” Exit when you're the victim. If your hand is only squeezed once, you are, unfortunately, “dead.” This means you have to stop playing and leave the circle. However, you can die as dramatically as you want. Often, a more dramatic death adds more fun to the game. For example, flinging yourself from your chair, clutching your chest, and moaning. Guess the murderer. This can be tricky as you don't always know which direction the squeeze is coming from. However, as the circle gets smaller, you should be able to get a better idea of who the murderer is. Once you have an idea, ask “Sarah, are you the murderer?” If you're correct, you win and the game is over. If you're wrong, though, you have to leave the circle and the game continues. Keep playing until the murderer is uncovered or until all players are dead and the murderer wins.	Pick someone who will not be playing. Pick a murderer. Begin the game. Scratch the inside of other players’ wrists. Wait ten seconds before “dying. Try to guess who the murderer is. Choose a murderer. Sit in a circle and hold hands. Start the squeeze. Exit when you're the victim. Guess the murderer.
https://www.wikihow.com/Calculate-Velocity	How to Calculate Velocity	To calculate velocity using acceleration, start by multiplying the acceleration by the change in time. For example, if the acceleration is 10 m/s2 and the change in time is 5 seconds, then there is a 50 m/s increase in velocity. Then, add the initial velocity to the increase in velocity. If the initial velocity was 2 m/s, then the final velocity is 52 m/s. If the initial velocity was 0 m/s, then the final velocity is 50 m/s. Be sure to include any directional notations in your answer.	Find average velocity when acceleration is constant. If an object is accelerating at a constant rate, the formula for average velocity is simple: v a v = v i + v f 2 {\displaystyle v_{av}={\frac {v_{i}+v_{f}}{2}}}. In this equation v i {\displaystyle v_{i}} is the initial velocity , and v f {\displaystyle v_{f}} is the final velocity. Remember, you can only use this equation if there is no change in acceleration. As a quick example, let's say a train accelerates at a constant rate from 30 m/s to 80 m/s. The average velocity of the train during this time is 30 + 80 2 = 55 m / s {\displaystyle {\frac {30+80}{2}}=55m/s}. Set up an equation with position and time instead. You can also find the velocity from the object's change in position and time. This works for any problem. Note that, unless the object is moving at a constant velocity, your answer will be the average velocity during the movement, not the specific velocity at a certain time. The formula for this problem is v a v = x f − x i t f − t i {\displaystyle v_{av}={\frac {x_{f}-x_{i}}{t_{f}-t_{i}}}} , or "final position - initial position divided by final time - initial time." You can also write this as v a v {\displaystyle v_{av}} = / Δt , or "change in position over change in time." Find the distance between the start and end points. When measuring velocity, the only positions that matter are where the object started, and where the object ended up. This, along with which direction the object traveled, tells you the displacement , or change in position. The path the object took between these two points does not matter. Example 1: A car traveling due east starts at position x = 5 meters. After 8 seconds, the car is at position x = 41 meters. What was the car's displacement? The car was displaced by (41m - 5m) = 36 meters east. Example 2: A diver leaps 1 meter straight up off a diving board, then falls downward for 5 meters before hitting the water. What is the diver's displacement? The diver ended up 4 meters below the starting point, so her displacement is 4 meters downward, or -4 meters. (0 + 1 - 5 = -4). Even though the diver traveled six meters (one up, then five down), what matters is that the end point is four meters below the start point. Calculate the change in time. How long did the object take to reach the end point? Many problems will tell you this directly. If it does not, subtract the start time from the end time to find out. Example 1 (cont.): The problem tells us that the car took 8 seconds to go from the start point to the end point, so this is the change in time. Example 2 (cont.): If the diver jumped at t = 7 seconds and hits the water at t = 8 seconds, the change in time = 8s - 7s = 1 second. Divide the total displacement by the total time. In order to find the velocity of the moving object, you will need to divide the change in position by the change in time. Specify the direction moved, and you have the average velocity. Example 1 (cont.): The car changed its position by 36 meters over 8 seconds. v a v = 36 m 8 s = {\displaystyle v_{av}={\frac {36m}{8s}}=} 4.5 m/s east. Example 2 (cont): The diver changed her position by -4 meters over 1 second. v a v = − 4 m 1 s = {\displaystyle v_{av}={\frac {-4m}{1s}}=} -4 m/s. (In one dimension, negative numbers are usually used to mean "down" or "left." You could say "4 m/s downward" instead.) Solve problems in two dimensions. Not all word problems involve movement back along one line. If the object turns at some point, you may need to draw a diagram and solve a geometry problem to find the distance. Example 3: A man jogs for 3 meters east, then make a 90º turn and travels 4 meters north. What is his displacement? Draw a diagram and connect the start point and end point with a straight line. This is the hypotenuse of a triangle, so solve for its length of this line using properties of right triangles. In this case, the displacement is 5 meters northeast. At some point, your math teacher may require you to find the exact direction traveled (the angle above the horizontal). You can do this by using geometry or by adding vectors. Understand the velocity formula for an accelerating object. Acceleration is the change in velocity. If the acceleration is constant, the velocity continues to change at the same rate. We can describe this by multiplying acceleration and time, and adding the result to the initial velocity: v f = v i + a t {\displaystyle v_{f}=v_{i}+at} , or "final velocity = initial velocity + (acceleration * time)" Initial velocity v i {\displaystyle v_{i}} is sometimes written as v 0 {\displaystyle v_{0}} ("velocity at time 0"). Multiply the acceleration by the change in time. This will tell you how much the velocity increased (or decreased) over this time period. Example : A ship sailing north at 2 m/s accelerates north at a rate of 10 m/s. How much did the ship's velocity increase in the next 5 seconds? a = 10 m/s t = 5 s (a * t) = (10 m/s * 5 s) = 50 m/s increase in velocity. Add the initial velocity. Now you know the total change in the velocity. Add this to the initial velocity of the object, and you have your answer. Example (cont) : In this example, how fast is the ship traveling after 5 seconds? v f = v i + a t {\displaystyle v_{f}=v_{i}+at} v i = 2 m / s {\displaystyle v_{i}=2m/s} a t = 50 m / s {\displaystyle at=50m/s} v f = 2 m / s + 50 m / s = 52 m / s {\displaystyle v_{f}=2m/s+50m/s=52m/s} Specify the direction of movement. Unlike speed, velocity always includes the direction of movement. Make sure to include this in your answer. In our example, since the ship started going north and did not change direction, its final velocity is 52 m/s north. Solve related problems. As long as you know the acceleration, and the velocity at any one point in time, you can use this formula to find the velocity at any other time. Here's an example solving for the initial velocity: "A train accelerates at 7 m/s for 4 seconds, and ends up traveling forward at a velocity of 35 m/s. What was its initial velocity?" v f = v i + a t {\displaystyle v_{f}=v_{i}+at} 35 m / s = v i + ( 7 m / s 2 ) ( 4 s ) {\displaystyle 35m/s=v_{i}+(7m/s^{2})(4s)} 35 m / s = v i + 28 m / s {\displaystyle 35m/s=v_{i}+28m/s} v i = 35 m / s − 28 m / s = 7 m / s {\displaystyle v_{i}=35m/s-28m/s=7m/s} Learn the formula for circular velocity. Circular velocity refers to the velocity that one object must travel in order to maintain its circular orbit around another object, usually a planet or other gravitating mass. The circular velocity of an object is calculated by dividing the circumference of the circular path by the time period over which the object travels. When written as a formula, the equation is: v = / T Note that 2πr equals the circumference of the circular path. r stands for "radius" T stands for "time period" Multiply the circular radius by 2π. The first stage of the problem is calculating the circumference. To do this, multiply the radius by 2π. If you are calculating this by hand, you can use 3.14 as an approximation for π. Example: Find the circular velocity of an object traveling a circular path with a radius of 8 m over a full time interval of 45 seconds. r = 8 m T = 45 s Circumference = 2πr = ~ (2)(3.14)(8 m) = 50.24 m Divide this product by the time period. In order to find the circular velocity of the object in question, you need to divide the calculated circumference by the time period over which the object traveled. Example: v = / T = / 45 s = 1.12 m/s The circular velocity of the object is 1.12 m/s.	Find average velocity when acceleration is constant. Set up an equation with position and time instead. Find the distance between the start and end points. Calculate the change in time. Divide the total displacement by the total time. Solve problems in two dimensions. Understand the velocity formula for an accelerating object. Multiply the acceleration by the change in time. Add the initial velocity. Specify the direction of movement. Solve related problems. Learn the formula for circular velocity. Multiply the circular radius by 2π. Divide this product by the time period.
https://www.wikihow.com/Prevent-Cats-from-Pooping-in-the-Garden	How to Prevent Cats from Pooping in the Garden	To prevent cats from pooping in your garden, try putting down a layer of mulch wherever you can since cats don't like the feeling of it. You can also lay sticks or branches in a criss-cross pattern across your plant beds, which will keep cats from stepping in those areas. Also, try spraying your garden with equal parts water and vinegar or sprinkling coffee grounds everywhere since the smell of vinegar or coffee will deter cats. Even just spreading some citrus peels around your garden can help keep cats away because of the smell.	Mulch the garden. Most cats don't like the feel of large pieces of mulch, so they will avoid the areas with it. In addition, part of the attraction of a garden is the fresh dirt, which most cats view as a litter box. By covering up the fresh dirt, you make that area less inviting. Try concrete-reinforcing wire or chicken wire with 1-inch openings. You can lay this wire across the paths that lead to your garden. Cats do not like the openings in the wire on their paws and will usually stay away. You can also lay the wire across your beds and cover it with mulch. Use wire cutters to create holes for your plants, and bend the ends of the wire down, pressing them into the ground. This wire deters cats from using the dirt as a litter box and from clawing at the dirt. Use sticks or branches. Criss-cross branches across your plant beds. Cats won't like walking on the branches, and you can place plants in the openings. An alternative to branches is lattice work. Plants can grow up through the holes of the lattice, and cats won't like walking on it. Place spike mats in the garden. Though these mats sound malicious, they are not harmful to the cats. They have small plastic spikes on the mats that cats don't like walking on. You cut the mat into pieces and then set them along your beds. Use an odor repellant. These types of repellants, which you can find at local gardening and hardware stores, come in granules or sprays. Cats do not like the smell, so it will keep them out of the area. Granules are better if you need to cover a large area. If you want to keep cats away from a certain plant, the spray is easier. You will need to renew this when you see cats coming back in your yard. Lion dung is an effective repellant that you can buy online. The cat is scared off because it thinks a bigger predator is around. Use citrus. Most cats do not like the smell of citrus. One easy method is to scatter citrus peels around the yard, though you will need to replenish them frequently. Instead of peels, you can use sprays that have citrus scents. You can also dissolve citrus essential oils and spray it around your garden. Simply dissolve 10-15 drops of oil in a cup of water, and place it in a spray bottle. Try other strong scents. For instance, cats don't like the smell of pipe tobacco or coffee, so you can spread the grounds or used tobacco around your plants to keep the cats out. Alternatively, you can spray a vinegar and water solution around the yard, or you can dissolve 10-15 drops of lavender or eucalyptus oil in a cup of water to spray the yard, as well. You will need to spray these periodically to keep the cats out. Spread crushed pepper. Some people have had luck with spreading crushed red pepper around the garden. However, you need to spread it around again after each rainfall. Plant rue. Cats avoid this plant because of its odor. Though it can be poisonous to cats, they will avoid it completely rather than chewing on it. Use motion detectors. You can use either ultrasonic or water motion detectors in your garden. You place them around your garden, and when a cat comes in, the motion activates a sensor. Depending on the kind you use, it either creates an ultrasonic sound that humans can't hear or sprays the area with water, both of which deter the cats. Some even combine the two approaches. If you see a cat while you're in the garden, you can try giving him a gentle spray with the hose to run him out. Choose a sunny spot. Many cats love being in the sun, so pick an area that is sunny at least part of the day. Plant catnip. Cats love catnip and cat mint, and you can distract them from your garden by planting it in another part of the yard. Cats will be drawn to that area rather than to your tomato plants. Be warned, though, that this method may draw more cats to your yard. Create a sand patch. In addition, till up an area near the catnip and spread sand on top. Cats will enjoy napping in the area, keeping them free of your garden. Cats may use this area as a litter box, so you will need to clean up the area regularly. However, it will likely keep them from going in other areas in your garden. Spread fine mulch around the area. While cats don't like heavy mulch, they do like digging in fine mulch, so it will attract them to the area. Try other plants cats love. Cats also like wheat berries, flax, oat grass, barley grass, and lemongrass to name a few. Check on leash laws in your areas. Most cities won't let animals be outside without leashes on. Once you know the laws, it gives you the authority to do something about the cats roaming in your garden. Find the owner. Check the cat collars, if possible, to find the owner, as many collars include a phone for the cat's home or, at the very least, the cat's vet office. You can also watch to see where the cat goes when she leaves your garden. Talk to the owner. If it's a neighbor's cat, talk to the neighbor about the problem. Inform him or her of the leash laws, and ask the owner to keep the cat inside. You can threaten to call animal control if the cat continues to come over. Call animal control. If the cat is a stray or if a neighbor's cat continues to come over, you can call animal control to pick up the animal.	Mulch the garden. Try concrete-reinforcing wire or chicken wire with 1-inch openings. Use sticks or branches. Place spike mats in the garden. Use an odor repellant. Use citrus. Try other strong scents. Spread crushed pepper. Plant rue. Use motion detectors. Choose a sunny spot. Plant catnip. Create a sand patch. Spread fine mulch around the area. Try other plants cats love. Check on leash laws in your areas. Find the owner. Talk to the owner. Call animal control.
https://www.wikihow.com/Eat-Soft-Boiled-Eggs	How to Eat Soft Boiled Eggs	To eat soft boiled eggs, remove the shell by firmly tapping the egg at one of its ends with a teaspoon to make a small crack, and then peel off the shell carefully. If there are any pieces of the shell remaining, try dunking the whole egg in ice water. Then, simply enjoy the egg plain, or place slices of the egg on toast for a quick and yummy breakfast. You can also season the eggs with spices, like ground chili, or herbs, like fresh chives, for more variety.	Remove the shell of the soft boiled eggs. Taking the shell off is the first step to eating or using your soft boiled eggs in recipes. Firmly tap the egg at one of its ends with a teaspoon or bread knife to create a small crack. Then you can peel off the shell carefully either as you eat, or all in one go. Cracking the eggs at the end rather than in the centre will reduce the chance of damaging the egg white. If there are any small pieces of shell leftover after peeling, you can dunk the whole egg in an ice water bath to get rid of these. Use an egg cup if you want to eat the soft boiled egg plain. Place the egg in the egg cup with the larger end facing down. The egg cup will keep your egg steady and upright if you want to take the shell off as your eat, rather than all in one go. You can then use a spoon to eat the egg straight out of the shell. An egg cup is a small cup which holds the egg upright for you to eat. You can buy these from homeware stores or online. Eat soft boiled eggs on toast for a quick and yummy breakfast. Having some crispy, golden brown toasted bread is a popular way to enjoy soft boiled eggs. You can keep it simple with buttering the bread and roughly smearing the eggs on top. A popular way for kids to enjoy soft boiled eggs is to make toast soldiers. In an egg cup, crack the top off a soft boiled egg, and then dip strips of thinly sliced toast into the slightly gooey center. Avocado on toast with soft boiled eggs is also a delicious meal. Mash 1 avocado with a salt and pepper to taste until the mixture is smooth. Then, spread the avocado on top of two slices of toast. Place half of a soft boiled egg on each, and enjoy! Season the soft boiled eggs for more variety. There are numerous different flavour combinations to try with soft boiled eggs. Cut each egg in half first, and then sprinkle or dip each half into different herbs, spices, or seeds. You can also roll whole eggs in seasoning mixes if preferred. For a chili flavor, combine 1 tablespoon (14.8 ml) (18 g) of table salt, a pinch of ground chili, and a pinch of ground white pepper. For a simple seasoning, mix together 1 tablespoon (14.8 ml) (18 g) of table salt with 1/2 tsp (2 g) of finely grated lemon rind. For a classic savoury taste, combine 1 tablespoon (14.8 ml) (18 g) of table salt, 1 tablespoon (14.8 ml) (3 g) of finely chopped fresh chives, and a pinch of ground white pepper. Cut the soft boiled eggs in half. Slice the eggs down the centre lengthwise with a sharp knife. Don't worry if the yolk spills onto the white, as it will all be caramelized eventually. To get perfectly halved eggs, you could use fishing wire instead of a knife to slice through them. This is similar to slicing cheese with a wire. Season the eggs with salt and sugar. Sprinkle a pinch of salt onto each egg yolk, and then sprinkle 1/2 tsp (2 g) of white sugar on top. Just enough to thinly cover the yolk will do. The sugar is necessary for the eggs to caramelize, and the salt balances out the sweet flavor. Season one egg half and then caramelize it before seasoning the next. This stops the sugar from dissolving into the eggs, which can happen if it sits there for too long. Caramelize the egg halves. Set a kitchen torch to a low heat, and slowly wave the flame over the top of the egg halves. The eggs will be done when the yolk starts to bubble up and the sugar caramelizes. If the eggs don't turn out as caramelized as you would like after the first round, you can always do it again. Simply sprinkle another layer of sugar on top and try again. Coat the soft boiled eggs in the batter. Place 4 oz (110 g) of plain flour on one plate, 7 oz (200 g) of fresh breadcrumbs on another plate, and 1 raw, beaten egg in a bowl. Cover each boiled egg in flour, then dip it into the beaten egg, and finally coat the egg with the fresh breadcrumbs. If you don't want to deep-fry the eggs straight away, they can be left on a tray in the refrigerator until needed. Deep-fry the battered soft boiled eggs. Heat vegetable oil in a deep-fat fryer to 350°F (180°C), and then deep-fry each egg for around 30 seconds or until it is golden brown. Once finished, remove each egg with a slotted spoon, and drain away the excess oil using a paper towel. If you don't have a deep-fat fryer, you could instead use a stovetop for this step. Use a deep, heavy-based pan with ¾ in (2 cm) of vegetable oil, and bring the pan up to the same temperature as the deep-fat fryer. Never leave the pan unattended, as the hot oil can be very dangerous. Season the deep-fried soft boiled eggs. Use salt and pepper to season the eggs to taste. You can also experiment by adding cooked mushroom, onions, or mayonnaise depending on the flavor you prefer.	Remove the shell of the soft boiled eggs. Use an egg cup if you want to eat the soft boiled egg plain. Eat soft boiled eggs on toast for a quick and yummy breakfast. Season the soft boiled eggs for more variety. Cut the soft boiled eggs in half. Season the eggs with salt and sugar. Caramelize the egg halves. Coat the soft boiled eggs in the batter. Deep-fry the battered soft boiled eggs. Season the deep-fried soft boiled eggs.
https://www.wikihow.com/Make-Your-Hair-Healthy-Again	How to Make Your Hair Healthy Again	To make your hair healthy again, try washing your hair only once or twice a week to replenish the natural oils and heal your hair. When you do wash, use products without sulfates, silicones, or alcohol, since these can do more damage to your brittle hair. After washing, let your hair air dry and comb it instead of using a brush. Once a week, deep condition your hair by combing 1 tablespoon of coconut oil through your it, putting on a shower cap, and letting it sit overnight before shampooing.	Handle your hair gently. Damaged hair is very brittle, and it needs to be handled with care. If you're rough with your hair it can split or break, and it will look more frizzy than ever. Starting today, handle your hair with extra care, whether it's wet or dry. Here's what to do: When you're applying shampoo and other products, use your fingers to gently pull the product through your hair from roots to tips. Don't scrub your hair. Rinse your hair with lukewarm water, not hot water. Don't wring out your hair or roughly towel it dry. Squeeze out the water gently, then pat it dry with an old t-shirt, chamois or soft towel. Wash your hair less often. When you wash your hair, the natural oils that protect it from getting dry and brittle get stripped away. Do it too often and your hair will become frizzy and damaged. Cut back to washing your hair only once or twice a week so it has time to recover. After just a week or so, you should notice a positive change in the texture of your hair. When you do shampoo, use only as much product as you need. A dime-or quarter sized amount is fine. Your hair shouldn't be dripping with soap. If your roots start to look oily between washes, touch them up with dry shampoo. After a few weeks of washing less, it'll take longer and longer for your roots to need a touch-up. Realize that overuse of dry shampoo can dry out your hair and may damage it. Let it air dry whenever possible. You've probably heard that using a hair dryer wreaks havoc on hair, especially if it's already damaged. Put down the hair dryer and let your hair air dry naturally. Get down with your natural hair texture; if you learn to love it and leave it alone, it will start getting less frizzy and dry. Avoid heat styling tools, too. Use curling and straightening irons very sparingly, if at all. If you do feel the need to use a hair dryer, use the coolest setting that works for your hair, typically finer textures should use lower temperatures. When finished, set the style with the cool shot. Use a comb, not a brush. Brushes with plastic bristles drag through your hair, violently pulling out the tangles and causing rips and breaks to occur. A wide-tooth comb is a better tool for gently detangling hair without causing damage. Start by working through the tips of your hair, then move up a few inches at a time until your hair is detangled from tips to roots. Stop damaging your hair with treatments. Dyeing, bleaching, perming and chemical straightening are anathema to healthy hair. There's no healthy way to permanently change your hair color or texture, so it's best to stop these practices altogether. If you really want to dye your hair, try a subtle tea or henna dye to brighten or deepen your color. It's fine to use methods for straightening and curling your hair without using heat. Deep condition your hair once a week. A good deep conditioner can restore your hair's vitality. It'll bring out the best in your hair's natural texture, whether it's smooth and silky or curly and bouncy. You can use a store-bought deep conditioner according to the manufacturer's instructions, or make your own deep conditioner treatment by doing the following: Dampen your hair. Apply one to two tablespoons of coconut oil or olive oil. Comb it through your hair to distribute it evenly. Put on a shower cap or cover your head in plastic wrap. Let it sit for at least an hour or overnight. Shampoo your hair as normal. It may take two or more washes to rinse out the excess oil. Make your own hair masks to suit your texture. Hair masks are made from natural ingredients you probably have in your kitchen. They condition your hair and give it just the boost you're looking for. Apply a hair mask in the shower, after wetting your hair. Let it sit for five minutes before you shampoo it. Here are a few great masks to try: For frizzy hair: use one whisked egg For dry hair: use 2 tablespoons whole milk or yogurt For imbalanced hair: use 2 tablespoons honey For dull hair: use a mixture of 1 tablespoon white vinegar and 1 tablespoon water Apply a finishing oil to wet or dry hair. A finishing oil is similar to a leave-in conditioner, but it won't leave your hair weighed down or dull. To apply, rub a dime-sized amount between your palms. Use your fingers to distribute it evenly through your hair, focusing on the roots. Here are a few oils to choose from: Coconut oil (use on very dry hair to fix it ) Argan oil Jojoba oil Almond oil Olive oil Try a boar bristle brush. This special type of brush is used to pull natural oils from the roots down to the tips of your hair. The oil acts as a wonderful conditioner. If your hair is damaged, it's the only type of brush that's safe to use. Boar bristles are natural fibers that closely resemble the texture of human hair. Here's how to use one: Several hours (or the night before) you plan to shampoo, brush your hair from roots to tips. Press the brush against your scalp and pull down gently. Brush each section of your hair several times to distribute the oils. Shampoo your hair as normal. Use all-natural products only. Typical ingredients in most commercial shampoo, conditioner and styling products are damaging to hair. When you're trying to restore your hair to good health, it's worth switching to all-natural products you know won't cause further damage. Check the labels of your products and avoid those with the following ingredients: Sulfates: Commonly found in shampoo; they strip your hair of natural oils. Silicones: Commonly found in conditioner; they build up in your hair and make it look dull. Alcohol: Commonly found in hairspray, gel and other products: it dries out your hair. Massage your scalp. Massaging the scalp improves blood circulation in the area, which promotes the growth of healthy new hair. Get in the habit of massaging your head every time you're in the shower. Using the tips of your fingers, massage your scalp in small circular motions, making sure to cover every spot. For a nourishing massage, dip your fingers in almond, jojoba, olive or coconut oil before starting. Tea tree oil is said to promote hair growth; try diluting five drops in one tablespoon of olive oil, then massage it into your scalp. Have a well-balanced diet. The food you eat has a big impact on your hair. If you're not getting enough vitamins and nutrients, your hair will look unhealthy and dull or can become brittle. The best way to avoid a deficiency is to eat a varied diet that includes protein, fruits, grains, vegetables, and a healthy amount of fat. Also realize that broad malnutrition that affects your hair can be caused by crash diets, or eating disorders like anorexia and bulimia. Omega 3 fatty acids, found in salmon, sardines, flax seeds, and avocados Protein, found in meat, fish, eggs, beans and tofu Other foods to try include clams/oysters, peanuts, peppers, Greek yogurt, papaya and other fruits high in vitamin C like citrus. If you suspect you have a vitamin or mineral deficiency that is causing problems with your hair, consider if your diet contains enough iron, zinc, biotin and vitamin B12 (B12 must be supplemented if you are vegetarian) and talk to a doctor about your concerns. Stay hydrated. Dehydration is another common culprit when it comes to dry, damaged hair. Be sure you drink plenty of water during the day. When you feel thirsty, reach for pure water instead of coffee or soda, which can act as diuretics and dehydrate you. Alcohol can dehydrate the body fast. When you have an alcoholic drink, follow with a large glass of water. Try carrying a water bottle along during the day so you're never without water. Protect your hair from the elements. Hair is easily damaged by the sun, extremely cold air, and air pollution. Wear hats designed to protect you from these environmental factors that can make your hair less healthy. You should also wear a swim cap if you go swimming in a pool, to protect your hair from chlorine. Also, many thermal protectants and products designed for color treated hair can protect from sun and have an SPF rating. These be used to help with damage even if you don't use heat or dye your hair. Trim your hair often. Getting regular trims will freshen your hair and let you start replacing damaged locks with healthy new ones. Aim to get a trim every 6-8 weeks, whether your hair is long or short. Even if you just get half an inch trimmed off, it'll freshen your look every time. At the salon, you might want to tell your stylist that you're only using natural products. Avoid having the stylist blow out or straighten your hair while you're trying to restore it to good health.	Handle your hair gently. Wash your hair less often. Let it air dry whenever possible. Use a comb, not a brush. Stop damaging your hair with treatments. Deep condition your hair once a week. Make your own hair masks to suit your texture. Apply a finishing oil to wet or dry hair. Try a boar bristle brush. Use all-natural products only. Massage your scalp. Have a well-balanced diet. Stay hydrated. Protect your hair from the elements. Trim your hair often.