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https://www.wikihow.com/Identify-a-Lump-in-a-Breast	How to Identify a Lump in a Breast	To identify a lump in your breast, stand in front a mirror with your hands on your hips. First, look for any abnormalities in your breasts, like swelling, redness, or discharge. Then, raise your arms above your head, which will give you a better view of your breasts' underside, and check again. After you've checked in a mirror, lie on your bed with your right arm over your head. Use your left hand to apply pressure to your right breast in small circles. Feel the nipple, breast, and armpit for any lumps. Swap arms and repeat the process. Don't worry too much if you do find a lump, since 8 out of 10 aren't cancerous and will go away on their own. However, you should visit your doctor to get it checked out just in case. Try to examine your breasts every month for lumps.	Perform monthly self-breast exams to identify a lump in a breast. Most lumps are found by women, often by accident (in fact, 40% of breast cancers are found by women self-reporting a lump in their breast to their doctor). Start by standing in front of a mirror to look at your breasts, with your hands on your hips (as this optimizes the positioning of your breasts so that you can look at them and compare them). Things to look for include: breasts that are similar to their normal in terms of size, shape, and color; no swelling; no skin changes; no nipple discharge or nipple changes; and no redness or soreness. The next step in your breast self-exam is to raise your arms above your head, and to examine your breasts for the same features listed above. This change in position of your arms alters how your breasts sit, and is another way to identify any changes. The next part of the breast self-exam is done lying down. Lift your right arm over your head. With your left hand, apply firm pressure to your right breast. Move your fingers in a circular motion around the nipple, the surrounding tissue and the armpit. Be sure to cover the full surface area of the breast, from the collarbone to the bottom of the rib cage, and from the armpit to the breastbone. Raise your left arm and repeat the process examining your left breast, surrounding tissue and the armpit with your right hand. Doing a breast exam in the shower also works. You may actually be better at reading your breast when your fingers are wet and soapy as your fingers will glide over your breast tissue more easily. Talk with your doctor if you feel new lumps (most are pea-sized) or firm and hard breast tissue. If you do find one, don't fret; odds are it's not cancerous — eight out of 10 aren't. The benign ones are usually caused by cysts, a fibroadenoma, or just generalized breast lumpiness. It's not unusual to develop breast lumps for a short duration of time; most often, these are related to the menstrual cycle (they are called "physiological breast lumps" and come and go each month in sync with your menstrual cycle). In order to distinguish "physiological breast lumps" (related to your period) from worrisome ones, watch to see whether the lump grows and then shrinks again within the month, and whether this pattern repeats monthly with your cycle. If this is not the case, or if the lump continues to grow, it is always best to seek the advice of your physician. The best time to do breast self-examination is one week before your period starts (as this is the time when it is least likely, hormonally, to have lumps related to your period). If you are post-menopausal or have irregular periods, you can examine your breasts on the same day of each month to keep your self-examination process as consistent as possible. Pay close attention to breast lumps that suddenly grow or change in shape. Most women have inconsistencies in breast tissue (it is the nature of how our breasts are), but if this changes over time (or grows) it is more likely to be worrisome. Also, you can assess one breast in comparison to the other — if both breasts feel the same, it is not a worry, but if one breast has a lump that is definitely not present in the other, this is more of a cause for concern. Be aware of other concerning symptoms. These symptoms may or may not occur in conjunction with a breast lump; if they do, the lump is more likely to be worrisome and it is best to see a physician sooner rather than later. Look for a bloody or pus-like nipple discharge. Watch for a red or pink rash near or around the nipple. Notice any changes in your nipple, especially if it becomes inverted. Observe breast skin. If it becomes thick, scaly, dry, dimpled, red or pink, talk to your doctor. Call your family doctor if you are unsure whether your breast lump is of concern. It is always best to have reassurance that things are fine, or the proper series of investigations and tests as soon as possible if your doctor agrees that there is cause for concern. Medical professionals are well-trained in how to evaluate and assess breast lumps, and in particular in how to rule out breast cancer. If in doubt, do not hesitate to ask for doctors advice. Breast cancer is a realistic concern for many women (being the number one most frequent cancer diagnosis in women). One in nine women are diagnosed with breast cancer in their life, so if in doubt get your breast lump checked out by a doctor sooner rather than later. Most breast lumps are benign (not worrisome), and many cancer diagnoses are completely treatable if caught sooner rather than later. Keep in mind, however, that breast cancer under the age of 20 is very rare, and it is very uncommon under the age of 30. Set up a mammography appointment. Do this on an annual basis or as prescribed by your doctor. This is a low-dose X-ray examination used for locating breast tissue abnormalities. Mammograms are the number one way in which breast cancers are caught and diagnosed. It can be used as a screening test (routine test for any woman over the age of 40 to rule out breast cancer even without symptoms or lumps), and also as a diagnostic test (for women with a breast lump to gather further information to determine whether or not the lump is of concern). For a young patient with dense breast tissue, however, an MRI may be a better test than mammogram. People who receive a mammogram for diagnostic reasons (to determine whether or not their breast lump is worrisome) will likely also receive additional tests to add to the information your doctor has to work with, to determine whether or not she is concerned about your breast lump. Proceed with a breast ultrasound for further investigation of your lump if your physician recommends this. Ultrasound provides a different viewpoint of the breast than mammography, and can help to differentiate between solid and cystic masses (cystic masses are generally fluid-filled and not of concern; in other words, not cancerous). An ultrasound can also provide further information to see whether a biopsy (sample of the breast tissue taken with a needle and examined by doctors under the microscope) is needed. Have your physician prescribe a breast lump biopsy if the other test results are unable to rule out breast cancer. A sample of your breast tissue will be examined under a microscope, which can give a definite answer as to whether the lump is benign (non-worrisome) or malignant (cancerous). If the lump is in fact diagnosed as breast cancer, you will be referred to an oncologist (cancer specialist) and perhaps a surgeon for surgical, hormonal, or chemotherapy treatments, depending upon the severity. Again, it is important to be aware that the great majority of breast lumps are not cancer; however, it is always best to see your physician and to have the recommended tests done in order to rule out any possibility, and to get treatment as soon as possible (which results in the most successful outcomes) if you are in fact diagnosed with breast cancer. At times, a breast MRI or ductogram will be used as "diagnostic tests" by your doctor, but these are significantly less common than mammograms, ultrasounds, and breast biopsies. Follow-up as per your doctor's advice. Oftentimes, if a breast lump is determined to be not particularly concerning, your doctor will ask that you continue to monitor it over time and to report back if there are any significant changes or growth. Most often there will not be, but it is always better to be safe rather than sorry and to continue paying attention to any lumps or different textures to your breast to see if these change or worsen with time (at which point a follow-up visit to your family doctor is recommended).	Perform monthly self-breast exams to identify a lump in a breast. Talk with your doctor if you feel new lumps (most are pea-sized) or firm and hard breast tissue. Pay close attention to breast lumps that suddenly grow or change in shape. Be aware of other concerning symptoms. Call your family doctor if you are unsure whether your breast lump is of concern. Set up a mammography appointment. Proceed with a breast ultrasound for further investigation of your lump if your physician recommends this. Have your physician prescribe a breast lump biopsy if the other test results are unable to rule out breast cancer. Follow-up as per your doctor's advice.
https://www.wikihow.com/Choose-a-Vet-for-Your-Horse	How to Choose a Vet for Your Horse	To choose a vet for your horse, ask your farrier for a referral, since they frequently work closely with vets. Alternatively, search online for an “equine vet” or “horse vet.” You should also review the vet's website for information about their education, licensing, and how much practical experience they have. Once you choose a vet, phone or visit their office to find out if they have dental qualifications, since horses need regular teeth maintenance. Before making a decision, ensure that the vet's practice is close by so they can come quickly in an emergency.	Consult your farrier and trainer. Your farrier, or hoof specialist, and trainer can offer advice from their professional perspectives. In particular, farriers are a valuable source of information, since they have to work closely with vets for issues related to lameness. Ask fellow horse owners for referrals. Fellow horse owners are another great resource, and can give you a clear idea of what it's like to be a particular vet's client. Ask fellow owners how much they like their vet. Ask if their vet communicates clearly or uses lots of technical jargon. If you're comfortable with that person, ask about cost, and whether payment is due immediately or if they offer payment plans. Ask the horse owner how quickly they are able to get appointments with their vet. You might want to ask if the vet makes after hours calls or how far they will travel to treat horses. Search online for local equine vets. In addition to getting referrals, you can search for and research local vets online. A basic search for “horse vet” or “equine vet” near your location is a great start. You can also use the search tool on the website of the American Association of Equine Practitioners: https://aaep.org/horse-owners/get-dvm. If you live outside the United States, look up your nation's veterinary or equine veterinary association. Many national association websites offer a search tool. Check out their website. Most vets should have their own website. Read through the site to see what their availability and policies are. Look for vets who only treat horses. Equine medicine is a broad, complex, and rapidly advancing field. While you might only find mixed-animal practices in some rural areas, an equine-only vet is usually your best option. You might encounter exceptions to the equine-only rule. For instance, an experienced, board certified large animal vet located 20 minutes away might be better than an equine vet who's fresh out of school and located over an hour from your ranch. Find a vet who’s close enough to respond to emergencies. Location is a key consideration when you start putting together a list of potential vets. Horse vets typically make house calls, especially in emergency situations. If your horse does have an emergency, you'll want a vet who can arrive as quickly as possible. Check a potential vet’s education and certifications. A practice's website will most likely include information about where a vet went to school, their licensing, and board certifications they've earned. In addition, try to find out if they continue their education by participating in workshops, conferences, and by publishing research. You can also call their office to find out about their education and any additional certifications. Ask them where they did their residency. If they had any internships, try to see where those were completed as well. Find out how much practical experience they have. Look up a vet's website or call their office to find out how long they've been in practice. A vet who has practical, real world experience is usually more desirable than a recent graduate. Larger, multi-vet practices often offer the best of both worlds. They'll likely have vets on staff with lots of experience along with recent grads who are more familiar with the latest advancements in equine medicine. Ask if they provide dental care and about their dentistry qualifications. Ideally, the vet will have ample experience with equine dentistry. Horses' teeth grow continually and require regular maintenance. Verify that they sedate the horse to administer a dental exam, and that they use a full-mouth speculum (to hold the mouth open), dental light, and mirror to thoroughly assess each tooth. They should also have access to an x-ray and keep permanent dental records. Research their business practices. Look up a practice on your local Better Business Bureau to find their rating and client reviews. Referrals from fellow horse owners can also give you an idea of how a practice handles their business. Equine vets are known for less than stellar business skills. You want to find a vet who's flexible and can offer payment plans if needed, but who runs a successful business that will continue to operate for years to come. Evaluate their character and bedside manner. Evaluating character and bedside manner is a personal decision. Ask yourself if you want a vet who's upbeat and approachable or more stern and focused. When you talk to them on the phone or in person, try to figure out if they're someone with whom you can build a long-term relationship. It might be an intangible spark or gut feeling, but try to find someone who leaves you with an impression of integrity, intelligence, and empathy. You're going to be working with this vet quite a bit. Make sure that both you and your horse get along with them. Find a vet that fits your budget. From ranch visit fees to large medication dosages, providing equine veterinary care is expensive. Ask potential vets what their visit fees are, how much routine exams cost, and about emergency care expenses. Ask if payment is due at the time of service or if they offer interest-free payment plans. You don't want to just go with the cheapest vet available. You might not get the best treatment for your horse. Instead, try to find the most competent vet you can possibly afford. Decide whether you prefer a solo practitioner over a larger practice. Some horse owners want one individual to treat their animals. While it's desirable to build a close relationship with a solo vet, a multi-vet practice offers wider availability, faster emergency response time, and diverse areas of expertise. With more hands on deck, a multi-vet practice is usually a more practical option. However, you might find that you connect with a solo practitioner. If you end up using a larger firm, you may still be able to get the same vet every time if you request them. During emergency situations, however, they might send a different vet if yours is not available. Have an emergency back up if you go with a solo practitioner. If you do choose a vet who operates solo, it's a good idea to have a backup who can offer 24 hour emergency care. In an emergency, you won't want to have to scramble to find another option if your vet is sick, out of town, or treating another client's emergency. Get a vet who specializes in your sport or discipline. If you show or race your horses, your vet should have experience that relates to your specific discipline. For example, an equine vet with additional DACVS or DACVIM certifications will have expertise in muscular, bone, and joint issues, which would make them a better choice for a competition racehorse. Referrals from your farrier, trainer, and peers will help you track down a suitable vet if you raise competitive horses.	Consult your farrier and trainer. Ask fellow horse owners for referrals. Search online for local equine vets. Look for vets who only treat horses. Find a vet who’s close enough to respond to emergencies. Check a potential vet’s education and certifications. Find out how much practical experience they have. Ask if they provide dental care and about their dentistry qualifications. Research their business practices. Evaluate their character and bedside manner. Find a vet that fits your budget. Decide whether you prefer a solo practitioner over a larger practice. Have an emergency back up if you go with a solo practitioner. Get a vet who specializes in your sport or discipline.
https://www.wikihow.com/Clean-a-Cast-Iron-Dutch-Oven	How to Clean a Cast Iron Dutch Oven	If you use your cast iron dutch oven regularly and it's not too dirty, all you need to do to clean it is add enough oil to coat the inside. Then, use a towel to spread the oil, picking up any bits of food as you go. Use one more towel to soak up any excess oil, and you're done! For more stubborn bits of food, shake some salt into the cast iron, place it on a burner, and turn the heat on high. Then, use a cloth to scrub the abrasive salt around to loosen the grime.	Wipe it down with cooking oil and towels. If the cast iron isn't all that dirty and you use it a lot, simply pour in enough cooking oil to coat the insides. Then use cloth or paper towels to wipe away any loose bits of food. Use fresh paper towels to wipe away any excess oil. If it looks clean after that, that's all you need to do, so call it a day! Cast iron becomes sterilized once it reaches 212 degrees Fahrenheit (100 degrees Celsius), which should only take a couple minutes the next time you use it. However, if you don't use your Dutch oven frequently, it's a good idea to give it a more thorough wash than this. The cooking oil may turn rancid after a few days of non-use. Scrub with mild soap and warm water. Wet a sponge with warm water. Add a few drops of mild dish soap. Scrub off all traces of food and then rinse thoroughly with plain warm water. A popular myth is that you should never, ever use soap on cast iron. Manufacturers definitely advise against using strong detergents, scouring pads, and dishwashers, but handwashing with mild soap is fine. Use salt for tougher crud. To remove more stubborn bits of food that have scorched to your Dutch oven, shake some salt into it. Then place it on a burner and turn the heat to high. Use cloth or paper towels to scrub the abrasive salt around to loosen and dislodge the scorched bits. Then repeat either Step 1 or 2 to remove the salt and loosened crud. The heat from the burner should also help loosen the crud as you work. However, cast iron heats up pretty quickly, so switch the burner off after a minute or two (or less if it feels too hot to handle safely). Wiping more cooking oil over the cruddy bits can also help loosen them as it heats up. Use special tools if needed. For especially tough crud, pick up some tools specifically designed for cleaning cast iron. Scrub your Dutch oven with steel mesh instead of a sponge or towels. If you think that might be a little too abrasive, pick up some plastic scrapers so you can chip away at burnt food. Scour off any rust. Expect prolonged exposure to water to rust your Dutch oven pretty quickly. If your cast iron develops any, use steel mesh or fine-grade sandpaper to scrub it off. If the rusted area was relatively minor, rinse it with warm water, dry it off, and then wipe it with cooking oil. If the rust returns soon afterwards, or if the affected area was pretty large, you will need to reseason your Dutch oven. Dry it immediately. Expect wet cast iron to start to rust pretty quickly. If you used any water to wash it out, wipe it dry immediately. To really ensure that all moisture has been removed, heat it in the oven or on the stovetop until all traces of water have evaporated. This is only necessary for water, not cooking oil. Cooking oil will actually act as a barrier to water. Oil it back up and reheat it. Give your Dutch oven a quick reseasoning. Wipe it down with a light application of more cooking oil. Then wipe up any excess with fresh paper towels. Set the Dutch oven on a burner, set the heat to high, and let it heat up until it starts to smoke a little bit. It should only take a couple minutes to start smoking at high heat. Prevent moisture from building up during storage. Always store your Dutch oven and its lid separately. Allow air to circulate inside it when it's not in use. For double protection, stuff a few sheets of paper towels inside so they absorb any moisture that might accumulate during humid weather. Reseason as needed. Expect to need to do a more thorough job of reseasoning now and then even if you give your Dutch oven a quick one after each use. How often this needs to be done will vary from person to person (for instance, if you use it to cook a lot of acidic foods, you will probably have to do so more often than someone who doesn't). Thoroughly reseason your cast iron whenever: Foods begin to stick to it constantly. Rust recurs frequently and/or pervasively. The cast iron turns from shiny and black to dull and gray. Wash with mild soap and a brush. Definitely use a mild dish soap to wash it this time for a more extensive clean. Instead of a sponge, however, use a cleaning brush with stiff bristles for an even more rigorous job. Give it a thorough rinse with hot water and then dry it off. Oil it up again. Wipe it down with more cooking oil. This time, however, do it all over: both inside and out. Do a thorough job, but keep the application thin. Wipe away any excess with fresh paper towels if needed. Put your cast iron in the oven. First, expect oil to possibly drip from your Dutch oven while it bakes, even if you did a good job of removing the excess. Cover the lower rack with aluminum foil to keep the bottom of your oven clean. Then set your Dutch oven upside-down on top of that. Bake your cast iron. Turn the oven on. Heat it up somewhere between 350 and 400 degrees Fahrenheit (177 and 204 degrees Celsius). Once your oven reaches your desired temperature, let the Dutch oven cook inside it for a minimum of one hour. After that, it's good to go.	Wipe it down with cooking oil and towels. Scrub with mild soap and warm water. Use salt for tougher crud. Use special tools if needed. Scour off any rust. Dry it immediately. Oil it back up and reheat it. Prevent moisture from building up during storage. Reseason as needed. Wash with mild soap and a brush. Oil it up again. Put your cast iron in the oven. Bake your cast iron.
https://www.wikihow.com/Introduce-Two-Guinea-Pigs-to-Each-Other	How to Introduce Two Guinea Pigs to Each Other	Before introducing two guinea pigs to each other, quarantine the new guinea pig for 2-3 weeks to make sure it's healthy. When the quarantine has passed, introduce the two guinea pigs on neutral territory, such as a bathroom floor, so that neither of them feels they're being threatened. If they get on well, wash the cage before you put them in since this will make it feel like new territory. Watch for signs of aggression, including teeth chattering, but only separate your pets if one draws blood in a fight.	Determine the sex of your guinea pigs. Sex makes a big deal when it comes to how guinea pigs interact with one another. Before you introduce them, you must determine their sex. Pet shop employees often make mistakes, and if you're buying a guinea pig from a pet store the chance of error is even higher. You should examine your guinea pig on the floor or a very low table. This way, if they get away they will not injure themselves falling. Handle your guinea pig gently, but keep a firm hold around their chest and shoulders. Spread their back legs apart to examine their genitals. The distance between the genitals and anus is greater in males than females. The genital opening of male guinea pigs is shaped like a circular dot, while the genital opening of females forms a Y-shape. For a decisive test, feel just above the genitals. In a female, this area will be soft, but in a male, you will feel a bone. Push in and up (towards the guinea pig's head) from this point. In a male, this will make the penis come out, whereas you will see no change in a female. Know which combinations work best. Certain pairs work better than others when it comes to guinea pigs. Younger pigs are easier to introduce. They start on a more or less blank slate and then grow and change together. If you already have an older guinea pig, getting a baby of the same sex is a good choice. The adult will not feel as threatened by a baby and its dominance will not be challenged. Its best to neuter males before introducing them to females; however, neutered or not, never place more than one male in a group with females. They will fight over the female's attention. Adult females tend to get along more readily than adult males. Understand that if you house two normal (not fixed) guinea pigs of different sex (one male and one female) together, you will end up with babies. Pregnancy is extremely dangerous for both moms and babies (1/4 of sows die as a result of having babies), so avoid this at all costs. Make special accommodations if you have two adult males. Male guinea pigs are very territorial, and if you're introducing two adult males take certain precautions. A spacious cage is key to males living in harmony. Provide them with their own space to eat, hide, sleep, and play — provide two of everything. Ensure that hiding houses have two entrances so that one guinea pig cannot trap the other. Quarantine the new guinea pig. You should keep your guinea pigs separate from one another in a different room for the first two to three weeks. You will need to have the new guinea checked out by a vet during this time to ensure they are healthy. Do not let them have physical contact until this time period is up. Placing the new guinea pig directly in the cage with a new one can cause undue stress as they must be eased into a new environment, and their presence may cause the current pig to become territorial. In addition to the emotional concerns, many guinea pig illnesses, which are easily spread at pet and department stores, can incubate for long periods. You need to make sure your new guinea shows no signs of sickness before introducing them to your old guinea. Put the guinea pigs in separate cages next to each other. Position the cages in such a way that the guinea pigs cannot see each other but can smell and hear one another. Introduce them on a neutral ground. Once the two to three week quarantine period has passed, it's time to introduce the guinea pigs. However, do not place the new guinea pig in the cage right away as it's best to introduce them on neutral ground so neither guinea pig feels their territory is being threatened. Find a new territory where neither guinea pig has been before, but that is a secluded and quiet place where both guinea pigs will feel safe. On the floor of a closed-off and small room, such as a bathroom, is a good option. Put veggies, treats, and hay in the center of the area to distract the guinea pigs from fighting as they get accustomed to one another's presence. In case the guinea pigs get physically aggressive, you should have old towels on hand. You can use towels to restrain the guinea pigs while avoiding getting scratched yourself. If it goes well, and the guinea pigs have not fought for over two hours, you will be able to introduce them to the same cage. Ensure that the cage has been thoroughly cleaned, and all the toys re-arranged to make it seem like a new cage. Take precautions before putting the guinea pigs in a cage together. After the guinea pigs have been introduced, there are steps you can take to smoothen the transition before placing them in the same cage. Make adjustments to the cage. Guinea pigs are territorial, so make sure your cage has enough space. As a general rule, a cage between 7.5 and 10.5 square feet is recommended for two guinea pigs. More room is preferred, and if you're housing three or more guinea pigs aim for at least 13 square feet. Rearrange and wash the cage so it will smell new and feel more like neutral territory for both guinea pigs. Gently rub hay from the old cage on the new guinea pig so he smells more like the rest of the herd. Recognize aggressive body language. The first few weeks for guinea pig cohabitation can be rough, and you should expect some tension between your pets. Know what the signs of aggression are and what body language is a signal for you to intervene. Mounting or jumping over one another can lead to aggression if one guinea pig resists or retaliates. Keep an eye on this behavior, but do not intervene unless it leads to fighting. Squealing, chasing, and teeth chattering are common in the first few weeks. Guinea pigs may also gently nip one another if annoyed, and such behaviors are necessary to establish boundaries between the guinea pigs. Only intervene if the guinea pigs are biting hard enough to inflict wounds. If one guinea pig is constantly chattering his teeth, this is a sign of aggression that could grow serious. Watch carefully, but do not separate unless blood is drawn. Raised hair, especially around the neck, and feet stamping are signs guinea pigs are preparing to fight. This can occur but watch carefully. Do not separate unless blood is drawn. Understand that humping each other is perfectly normal. Again, do not separate unless blood is drawn. Two males or two females humping each other is not an intended sexual interaction, it's their method of establishing dominance. Mounting does not necessarily mean your guinea pig is a boar, or mating. Recognize normal interaction. Not all body language is a bad sign. There are certain behaviors that are normal, especially early on, and you should be able to recognize these gestures so you do not intervene unnecessarily. Bottom sniffing and nudging is a guinea pig's way of greeting a new companion. This is normal and non-threatening behavior. Your guinea pigs may also want to establish their territory by dragging their bottoms across the ground or raising their heads up on occasion to expression dominance, behaviors that are normal during the first few weeks. Guinea pigs sometimes engage in a behavior called rumble strutting. This is when they walk with their hips swaying and their fur puffed out while making a rumbling sound. This is an expression of dominance and unless it's followed up by aggressive gestures it's usually a normal part of establishing the pecking order. Don't be afraid of squealing sounds. Although guinea pigs can make shrill noises that may sound like pain, it is just their way of saying that they submit to the more dominant pig. Break up fights when necessary. If fights start to get bloody, you need to intervene. Know how to do so safely to diminish harm for yourself and your pets. Act quickly. Guinea pigs have sharp teeth and are capable of inflicting serious harm on one another. If you notice aggressive fighting, separate them immediately. Guinea pigs can cause permanent injury and disabilities to one another if left unchecked. Do not intervene with your bare hands. An irate guinea pig can cause injuries to you that are serious enough to warrant medical attention. Cover the animal with an old towel or rag or use heavy gloves while separating them. Separate the guinea pigs after the fight. Keep them in different cages, but in the same room so that they can see, smell, hear, and talk to each other. Continue handling them with gloves or a towel for a few hours after the fight, as they can remain skittish and aggressive for a while after a confrontation. Reintroduce them slowly, once again introducing them on a neutral ground with treats and food as distractions. Depending on the severity of the fight, wait a few hours to a few days. Keep protective gear on hand in case the fight resumes. Don't be discouraged if they don't get along. Some guinea pigs may simply not get along, even after you follow the proper protocol introducing them. You need to be prepared for this. It's a risk when introducing a new guinea pig to your pack. Do not feel as if this is your fault. Nature simply works this way, and guinea pigs have different personalities. Some may be more independent and aggressive and therefore harder to introduce to a companion. Even when you do all the right things, guinea pigs are sometimes simply not compatible with one another. If the first introduction leads to an excess of fighting, you can restart the introduction process, beginning again with the quarantine period. This gives the guinea pigs time to cool off and forget any previous hostilities. If guinea pigs are simply not getting along, you can always keep them in separate cages where they can smell, see, and hear one another but cannot physically interact. They get the benefits of some social interaction but without the stress of a hostile environment.	Determine the sex of your guinea pigs. Know which combinations work best. Make special accommodations if you have two adult males. Quarantine the new guinea pig. Introduce them on a neutral ground. Take precautions before putting the guinea pigs in a cage together. Recognize aggressive body language. Understand that humping each other is perfectly normal. Recognize normal interaction. Break up fights when necessary. Don't be discouraged if they don't get along.
https://www.wikihow.com/Stretch-Canvas-Shoes	How to Stretch Canvas Shoes	To stretch your canvas shoes, put them in the microwave on high for 30 seconds, since the heat will make the fabric more malleable to your feet. Alternatively, aim a hairdryer at your shoes for 20 to 30 seconds to create the same effect. If you don't have a hairdryer, hold your shoes over a boiling kettle for several minutes so the steam can soften the shoe's fibers. Then, put your shoes on to stretch them. You can also stuff your shoes with 2 or 3 sealed bags of water. Next, place your shoes in the freezer overnight, which will cause your shoe's to stretch as the water expands. If your toes feel tight in your shoes, stuff them with newspaper to widen them.	Microwave canvas shoes for a quick way to stretch them. Put your shoes in the microwave on high for no longer than 30 seconds. The heat from the microwave will make the fabric more malleable to your feet. Make sure there are no metal pieces in the shoes before putting them in the microwave. Make sure the eyelets in your shoes aren't metal, too. Take the shoes out of the microwave and put them on right away while the material is still warm. Walk around with them on for a minute. After a minute, they'll start to cool down, so take them off and put them in the microwave again for 20 seconds. After 20 seconds, wear your shoes again, and they should be widened enough. Use a hair dryer on the shoes while wearing socks. The heat from the hair dryer will soften the fabric for stretching. While wearing thick socks, put your shoes on and aim a hair dryer at them for 20-30 seconds. Keep the hair dryer a few inches from your feet so as not to burn yourself. Try the shoes on without the thick socks to test their fit. They should be looser. Use steam to soften canvas shoes for stretching. Steam will relax the shoe fibers and make them more malleable to the shape of your feet. Boil a kettle of water and hold your shoes over the steam for 3 to 5 minutes. Be careful not to burn yourself. Try the shoes on and flex your feet around in them until the fabric has been stretched wide enough to accommodate your foot. Stuff your shoes with bags filled with water and freeze them. As water turns to ice, it will expand in the tight areas of the shoes and stretch the material. Fill two small zip-lock bags with water and seal them tightly. Place the bags in the shoes all the way to the toe area, and put them in the freezer overnight. Take the shoes out of the freezer, and try them on to test their fit. Repeat this process if necessary. Stuff newspapers into the toes of your shoes to widen them. By wadding up and tightly packing newspapers into the toes of your shoes, you should be able to create some wiggle room for your toes. Leave the newspaper in your shoes over night to give it time to stretch the material, and then remove it in the morning. Repeat this step if there's still not enough room. Stuff a ball of socks in your shoes to widen them. Similar to the newspaper, socks can also be used to stuff your shoes and widen them overnight. Pack the ball of socks tightly to ensure the toes of the canvas shoes receive a good stretch overnight. Wear your canvas shoes around your house if you can. By wearing new shoes around your house, you can break them in while doing daily tasks and sitting at your desk. Starting in the morning, wear the shoes with thicker socks and go about your day performing daily tasks such as doing the laundry, cleaning, or watching T.V. Flex your feet to create more room in the shoes while you wear them around your home. Use a ball and ring shoe stretcher to widen problem areas. This should provide immediate results, and this type of stretcher can be left in your shoes overnight. Decide which area of your shoes needs the most stretching, and place the ball inside the shoe with the ring on the outside. Put the arms of the stretcher together over the area of the shoes giving you the most problems. You should see progress immediately, but you can leave the stretcher in your shoe overnight to make sure it makes enough room for your feet. Use a two-way shoe stretcher to stretch the whole shoe at once. If the entire shoe feels too tight rather than one area, a two-way stretcher widens and lengthens the entire shoe. Shoe stretchers come with bunion plugs that can be attached to enhance stretching in extra tight areas. You should spray a stretching liquid on your shoes prior to using this device. When the solution saturates the fabric, turn the knob of the stretching device one full turn every 8 hours. You may leave the stretcher in overnight. Go to a cobbler for a professional shoe stretching. A professional can use a shoe-stretching machine to either widen or lengthen your canvas shoes. Cobblers charge between $10 to $20 to stretch your shoes. It's also one of the safest ways if you don't want to be bothered with a DIY method.	Microwave canvas shoes for a quick way to stretch them. Use a hair dryer on the shoes while wearing socks. Use steam to soften canvas shoes for stretching. Stuff your shoes with bags filled with water and freeze them. Stuff newspapers into the toes of your shoes to widen them. Stuff a ball of socks in your shoes to widen them. Wear your canvas shoes around your house if you can. Use a ball and ring shoe stretcher to widen problem areas. Use a two-way shoe stretcher to stretch the whole shoe at once. Go to a cobbler for a professional shoe stretching.
https://www.wikihow.com/Patch-Test-Skin	How to Patch Test Skin	If you have a new product and want to do a patch skin test, place a small amount on your inner arm because it won't be too noticeable if you have a reaction. Some products may start to burn your skin or react immediately. If so, wash them off right away to reduce as much damage to your skin as possible. Once you have the product on your arm, leave it on for a full 24 hours to see if it makes your skin turn red, start to rash, or become itchy. If it doesn't, you can try the product on a more sensitive area, like just behind the ear, for another 24 hours to see if it has any effect. If not, the product should be fine to use.	Understand the basics. Patch tests are used to test how allergic you are when you come into contact with certain substances. Patch tests are different from prick or scratch tests. A scratch test checks for reactions to common allergens that may give you symptoms from hives to a runny nose. The nurse scratches or pricks the skin to get the allergen under the skin. A patch test checks for just the skin's reaction to the allergen. A reaction to an allergen by the skin is known as contact dermatitis. Discuss your medications with your doctor. Certain medications can affect a patch test. Antihistamines, for instance, are designed to suppress allergic reactions, which can change the outcome of your patch test. Your doctor may want you to go off of these medications for a bit before your test, up to 10 days ahead of time. Other medications that may cause problems include tricyclic antidepressants, some medications for acid reflux (such as ranitidine), and omalizumab (an asthma medication). Be ready for what will happen. During a patch test, the nurse or doctor will make up a series of small patches. Each patch will contain a small amount of a different substance that has been known to cause reactions in some people. For instance, some patch tests use everything from metals such as cobalt and nickel to lanolin and certain plant types. The patches will be attached to your skin with medical tape. Most of the time, the patches are applied to your back or arm. Ask about photo-patch testing. If you commonly have rashes on the back of your hands, your neck, or arms, you may react to a substance only when it comes into contact with sunlight. A special test exists for this purpose; if you need a photo-patch test, your doctor will place two of each substance and expose one of them to light, while not exposing the other. Don't be afraid if you think it will be painful. In fact, unlike scratch tests, patch tests don't use needles at all. Therefore, you won't experience any pain when the patches are being applied. Keep the area dry. While the patches are on, you should avoid getting the patches wet, which means avoiding extremes of heat and humidity and heavy sweating. Do not swim, shower, take a bath, exercise or do anything that might cause the patch to get wet. Wait two days. Generally, the patches are left on you for two days. You return to the doctor after the time period is up. The nurse or doctor will remove your patches and look at your skin. One of them will see which substances your skin shows a reaction to. Reactions on your skin may appear as a rash, possibly with small, raised areas that resemble pimples or fluid-filled sacs. Wait another two days. Sometimes, the doctor will have you return again, four days after the original test. This step is to see if you had a delayed reaction to an allergen. Avoid the irritants. Once you know what causes you trouble, you know what to avoid. Your doctor can give you advice on avoiding your particular irritant. On the other hand, if you don't react to anything, your doctor will look to other issues as the cause of any rashes you may have. Understand product skin testing. When you get a new product, such as a chemical peel or even just a facial cleanser, it's important to patch test it first, especially if you have sensitive skin. Patch testing just means you use a small amount on part of your skin to see how you react. In other words, you don't want to rub something all over your face or body and break out in hives everywhere. It's best to limit the area at first. You should also skin test other products, such as shampoos, conditioner, and hair dyes. Basically, if you have sensitive skin, you should skin test any product that comes in contact with your skin. Put a small amount on your inner arm. Your inner arm is a good place to test because generally that skin is fairly sensitive. In addition, it won't be too noticeable if you do have a reaction. If the product burns or causes an immediate reaction, wash it off as quickly as possible. Wait for 24 hours. If it's a product such as lotion, leave it on your skin. If it's a product like a chemical peel that's meant to be rinsed off, rinse it off at the appropriate time. Wait a full day to see if you have a reaction to the product. A reaction could be your skin turning red, welting up, or showing a rash. You could also have scaliness or oozing skin. Another symptom is itchiness. Test a more sensitive area. Next, move to skin testing a more sensitive area. This time, pick a place where the product will be used. For instance, if you are using a facial cleanser, try it just under your ear in a small spot. The reason you need to test it again is because it may affect a more sensitive area of skin even if it doesn't affect your arm. Wait another day. Once again, wait for a full day to see if your skin reacts to the product. If it doesn't, you should be fine to use it.	Understand the basics. Discuss your medications with your doctor. Be ready for what will happen. Ask about photo-patch testing. Don't be afraid if you think it will be painful. Keep the area dry. Wait two days. Wait another two days. Avoid the irritants. Understand product skin testing. Put a small amount on your inner arm. Wait for 24 hours. Test a more sensitive area. Wait another day.
https://www.wikihow.com/Fit-a-Cat-Flap	How to Fit a Cat Flap	To fit a cat flap onto your door, mark the height of your cat's stomach on the door. Measure the height and width of the cat flap and mark the dimensions on the door, using the height of the cat's stomach as the center point. Cut out the square hole with a jigsaw and smooth the edges of the hole with fine-grit sandpaper, then place the cat flap in the hole and screw it into place. Remember to make sure that the cat flap swings freely, allowing the cat to enter and exit the house with ease.	Mark the height of your cat’s stomach on your door. Use a ruler to measure the height of your cat's stomach from the ground. Mark this measurement on the door with a horizontal line using a pencil. Use a spirit level to make sure that the horizontal line is straight. The measurement for most cats is approximately 4.7 in (12 cm). If you have multiple cats, use the shortest belly height as taller cats are able to crouch. Having the cat flap installed at the right height means that your cat will be able to easily get in and out. Find the center of the width of your door. Use a measuring tape to measure how wide the door is. Divide this measurement by 2 to find where the center point is. Mark this point along the horizontal line that you drew using an “X” symbol. Measure twice to find the center so that you can be confident that the measurement is accurate. This marking is where the center of the cat flap will be. Stick the cat flap template to your door using masking tape. Follow the instructions that came with the cat flap to fit the template. Line the template up along the horizontal line so that the cat flap will be the correct height. Make sure that you secure the template so that the middle is at the center of the door. Use the spirit level again to ensure that the template is sitting straight. If your cat flap kit doesn't include a template, photocopy the cat flap to create your own template. Drill 1 hole in each corner of the template. The cat flap template will indicate where you need to drill the holes. Make sure that the holes are slightly larger than the jigsaw blade width. A 3/8 in (10 mm) flat bit is an ideal size to use for drilling the corner holes. For square or rectangular cat flaps, you will need to drill 4 holes. However, for circular cat flaps, drilling only 1 hole at the top of the template is usually all that's necessary. Remove the template and draw a line to connect the holes. Peel the masking tape off to remove the template. Use a pencil and a ruler to create a square or rectangle that joins the holes together. This will serve as a guide for the opening that you are about to cut. Cut out the cat flap shape using a jigsaw. Place the blade of the jigsaw into a corner hole. Drill from 1 hole to the next to cut out the shape from the door. Follow the line as closely as possible and guide the blade around the shape. Don't push the jigsaw to make it go faster. Let it work at its own speed as this will result in the best and most accurate cut. Smooth the edges of the hole using a piece of fine-grit sandpaper. Rub along the edges of the cut out using sandpaper to tidy up the shape. Be careful not to sand too much to prevent the size from changing. Check that the cat flap opens properly. Hold the cat flap up against the cutout on the door. Push the cat flap open and let it close on its own to make sure that it works properly and doesn't catch on the door. If the cat flap catches on anything, take note of which part of the cut out isn't right and use a rasp or a file to adjust the size. Mark where the screw holes for the cat flap are on the door. Hold the cat flap up to the cutout. Use a pencil to mark where each screw hole on the cat flap is. This will show you where exactly the cat flap will be screwed onto the door. Make sure that the cat flap is the right away around when you are doing this. The cat flap should always open to the outside, with the lock located on the inside. Drill holes into the door where the screws will go. Remove the cat flap from the door. Drill a hole into each marking that reaches through to the other side of the door. Use screws to secure the cat flap into the door. Hold the front of the cat flap against the door. Push 1 screw into each hole and place the back of the cat flap over the other side of the screws. Tighten the screws using a drill and add nuts. Then test the cat flap to ensure that it is secured tightly in place. Prop the cat flap open until your cat begins to use it. Leave the cat flap open for a day and see if your cat will use it on their own. If not, stand on the other side of the door and encourage the cat to walk through. You may need to use treats for this. Alternatively, place some cat food in a bowl and leave it on the other side of the door, where it can be seen through the open cat flap. This should help to encourage your cat to walk through without you needing to be there holding a treat. You can keep the cat flap propped open using a piece of string. Attach the string to the cat flap using masking tape. Then tape the string to the wall to hold the cat flap open. Close the cat flap and encourage your cat to walk through using a treat. Once your cat can comfortably walk through the cat flap while it's open, let it shut and encourage the cat from the other side of the door again. This will prompt your cat to push against the cat flap with their head, which will teach it how to open it. After enough practice, your cat will eventually get used to pushing against the cat flap to open it and won't need to be encouraged anymore. Give your cat a lot of praise and affection when they start using the cat flap on their own. Avoid pushing your cat through the cat flap. While it may take a while for your cat to learn how to use the cat flap, never force it to walk through the cat flap. This may hurt your cat and may also ruin all of the training that you have done.	Mark the height of your cat’s stomach on your door. Find the center of the width of your door. Stick the cat flap template to your door using masking tape. Drill 1 hole in each corner of the template. Remove the template and draw a line to connect the holes. Cut out the cat flap shape using a jigsaw. Smooth the edges of the hole using a piece of fine-grit sandpaper. Check that the cat flap opens properly. Mark where the screw holes for the cat flap are on the door. Drill holes into the door where the screws will go. Use screws to secure the cat flap into the door. Prop the cat flap open until your cat begins to use it. Close the cat flap and encourage your cat to walk through using a treat. Avoid pushing your cat through the cat flap.
https://www.wikihow.com/Make-a-Shower-Pan	How to Make a Shower Pan	While you can easily buy a prefabricated shower pan, you can just as easily customize your own at home. First, you'll need to build a frame out of wood beams and boards to hold your pan. Put down a sheet of tar paper to protect your floor from leakage, making sure there's a hole for the drain. You should also apply a 1 1/2 inch-thick coat of mortar, and give it at least 24 hours to dry. Then, cut a sheet of shower liner to size, fit it on top of the mortar, and nail it to the wall for security. Seal the liner around the drain with silicon before fitting the top part of the drain in place. Apply a further layer of mortar, then finish your shower pan with tiles.	Frame out the shower pan using 2 by 6 inches (5.1 cm × 15.2 cm) boards. Measure the distances between the studs on your walls where you plan on building your shower pan and write them down. Use a circular saw to cut boards that are 2 by 6 inches (5.1 cm × 15.2 cm) to size based on the measurements you took. Position the cut boards in between the studs in your walls so they're on top of the bottom plate, which is the board at the bottom of your wall frame. If you don't have a circular saw, you may be able to ask the employees to cut your board for you when you purchase it. Build a curb for the shower pan using 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) boards. The curb is the edge of your pan that isn't along a wall and where you would step into the shower. Find the length of the side of your shower area that doesn't have a wall. Lay a 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) board that's the length you need and nail it into the subfloor. Stack 2 more boards on top of the first one and nail them in place every 8 inches (20 cm). Secure a layer of tar paper to the floor to block moisture. Tar paper protects your subfloor if water ever gets underneath your shower pan. Lay a large sheet of tar paper on the entire floor of your shower pan and smooth it out as flat as possible. Drive a nail into the floor every 8–12 inches (20–30 cm) so the tar paper stays in place. You can buy tar paper from your local hardware or home improvement store. If you need to use multiple pieces of tar paper, make sure the pieces overlap by at least 2 inches (5.1 cm). Cut a hole in the tar paper over the drain. Feel through the tar paper to locate the drain flange in your floor. Once you find it, follow along the edge of the drain with a utility knife to cut through the tar paper. Try to stay as close to the edge of the drain as you can so you don't remove too much tar paper, or else water may be able to get to your subfloor. If you don't already have a floor drain in place, hire a plumber to install the pipes for you so it's done correctly. Make sure you have a 2-part drain with an upper and lower flange. You can buy 2-part drains from your local home improvement store. Tape the drain opening closed so mortar doesn’t get inside. Rip off pieces of duct tape and use them to cover the opening on the drain. Overlap your pieces of tape by 1 inch (2.5 cm) so it's completely covered. Once you protect the drain with the tape, you can start applying mortar for your shower pan. If you don't have any duct tape, you can also shove a cloth into the drain pipe to prevent mortar from getting inside. Mix mortarinside of a mixing tray with a hoe. Pour a bag of quick-set mortar into a large mixing tray and spread it out evenly. Pour in a small amount of water at a time and mix the mortar together with a garden hoe. Aim to use 1 part water for every 4 parts of mortar mix to get the right consistency. As you mix the mortar, form it into a ball and squeeze it with your hands. If water comes out, then use more of the mortar mix until the ball holds its shape. If your mortar is too runny, it will be difficult to apply since it won't hold its shape as well. The amount of mortar you need depends on the size of your shower pan. For a 4 ft × 4 ft (1.2 m × 1.2 m) shower pan, you need approximately 2 bags that are each 30 pounds (14 kg) of mortar. Create a 1 1⁄2 in (3.8 cm) thick border around the frame of the shower. Dump the mortar onto the tar paper so you can easily spread it around. Use a flat trowel to push and shape the mortar into a border around the shower that's 1 ⁄ 2 inches (3.8 cm) thick and extends out 3–4 inches (7.6–10.2 cm) from the frame. Press down on the mortar with the trowel to compact it so there aren't any air pockets. Shaping the border first isn't necessary, but it makes it easier to slope later on. Spread and smooth out the mortar so it slopes toward the drain flange. Once you have a border around the edge of your shower, start smoothing out the mortar toward the bottom flange of your drain. Start from the corner furthest away from the curb and work backward so you don't disturb any of the mortar you've already worked on. Slope the mortar so it drops ⁄ 4 inch (0.64 cm) per 1 foot (30 cm) between the wall and the drain. The first layer of mortar doesn't have to be perfectly smooth, but it needs to have the correct slope in order to move on. Make sure you apply the entire layer of mortar in 1 day, or else it could dry unevenly. Let the mortar dry for at least 24 hours before removing the tape. Once you have the mortar smoothed out as much as you can, leave it alone overnight so it can set. The mortar takes about 24 hours to set before you can start working on it again. When the mortar is dry, peel off or cut through the tape that's covering the drain to remove it. Cut shower liner so it’s 2–3 in (5.1–7.6 cm) taller than the framing. Shower liner is a waterproof barrier that serves as another layer of protection for your subfloor. Measure the size of your shower pan and add 8 inches (20 cm) to each side to account for the framing on the side. Cut the liner using a utility knife so it fits inside your shower pan. You can buy shower liner from a local home improvement or hardware store. Apply a bead of siliconearound the bottom drain flange to prevent leaks. Put your silicone sealant in a silicone gun so you can easily apply it to the shower pan. Follow along the outer rim of the drain's bottom flange and squeeze the trigger to apply a thin bead of silicone. The silicone helps hold the liner in place and prevents water from getting underneath it. You can buy silicone sealant from your local hardware store. Place the liner inside your shower pan so it’s smooth. Slowly lay the liner down on the mortar and smooth it out as much as you can. Align the shower liner so the edges extend 2 inches (5.1 cm) up past the tops of the 2 in × 6 in (5.1 cm × 15.2 cm) frame. Push the liner tightly around the edge of the mortar so it stays as smooth as possible. Press the liner down onto the silicone bead you applied so it sticks in place. Secure the liner to the wall studs with nails or staples. Only nail the very top edge of the liner to the wall studs so there's less risk of it leaking. Use roofing nails or woodworking staples on every wall stud to secure the liner in place. Work your way around the liner, ensuring that it stays smooth on the floor. Cut holes in the liner for the drain. Feel through the liner to find the drain hole and the bolts sticking up from the flange. Use your utility knife to cut X-shapes into the liner over the hole and bolts so you can access them. Fold the flaps of the liner down into the drain hole so any water and moisture flows into the pipes. You can also cut the hole out entirely, but it may cause some water to leak between the drain and the liner. Screw the top part of the drain onto the bottom flange. The second part of your drain has an upper flange that attaches to the bottom using the bolts. Screw the top flange clockwise into the drain hole so it's about 1–2 inches (2.5–5.1 cm) above the bottom flange. Then tighten the bolts on the bottom flange to secure it. Don't screw the top flange into the drain until it's flush since you need to add another layer of mortar. Apply another layer of mortar on top of the shower liner and let it dry. Mix more mortar and follow the same process as before. Start by applying a 1 ⁄ 2 in (3.8 cm) thick border around the edges and slope the mortar toward the drain. Get the mortar as smooth as possible so it doesn't have any humps or valleys, or else water won't drain easily. Check the mortar's slope with a level frequently and smooth out any rough areas. Leave the mortar to dry for 24 hours to finish your shower pan. If you're putting tile in your shower pan, be sure to leave enough space between the mortar and the top of the drain so the tile is flush with the drain. Dry-fit the tiles in the shower pan so you know how they fit. Take one of the tiles that you want to use for your shower pan and place it next to the drain. Trace around the tile with a pencil to mark how it fits on the shower pan. Keep placing the tile down and tracing it to see how many tiles you'll need to use and what size you need to cut them if you need to. Choose tiles that match other fixtures in your bathroom so it looks like a cohesive space. The number of tiles you need depends on the size of your shower pan and the style that you're using. Wipe the mortar with a wet cloth to clean up any dust. The dust on your mortar can prevent the tiles from adhering to the shower pan. Wet a cleaning cloth with water and wipe the entire surface clean. Once the shower pan is clean, dry it off with a lint-free rag so the surface isn't wet anymore. Don't put tiles on your mortar while it's wet or they may not adhere as well. Apply an 1⁄8 in (0.32 cm) layer of thinset on the shower pan. Only use enough thinset for 1-2 tiles at a time so it doesn't set while you're working. Use a flat trowel to scoop and spread out the thinset. Smooth the thinset with the trowel so there's an ⁄ 8 in (0.32 cm) layer on the mortar. You can buy tile thinset from your local hardware store. Press your tiles into the thinset to secure them. Set the tiles carefully on thinset so it lines up with the marks you drew earlier. Firmly push down on the tile so the bottom fully contacts the adhesive, or else your tiles may easily lift up. Wait 1-2 minutes before wiping any thinset off that came up between the tile joints. If you want all your tiles to be the same distance apart, then use tile spacers so the shower pan looks uniform. Grout the tiles so they’re flush with the drain. Mix the grout in the container it came in or a large bucket. Pour some of the grout onto the tiles and spread it over your tiles with a flat trowel or rubber squeegee. Work the grout into the spaces between your tiles so water doesn't get through and so the surface is flat. Once you apply the grout, let it dry for at least 1 hour. You can buy tile grout from your local home improvement or hardware store.	Frame out the shower pan using 2 by 6 inches (5.1 cm × 15.2 cm) boards. Build a curb for the shower pan using 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) boards. Secure a layer of tar paper to the floor to block moisture. Cut a hole in the tar paper over the drain. Tape the drain opening closed so mortar doesn’t get inside. Mix mortarinside of a mixing tray with a hoe. Create a 1 1⁄2 in (3.8 cm) thick border around the frame of the shower. Spread and smooth out the mortar so it slopes toward the drain flange. Let the mortar dry for at least 24 hours before removing the tape. Cut shower liner so it’s 2–3 in (5.1–7.6 cm) taller than the framing. Apply a bead of siliconearound the bottom drain flange to prevent leaks. Place the liner inside your shower pan so it’s smooth. Secure the liner to the wall studs with nails or staples. Cut holes in the liner for the drain. Screw the top part of the drain onto the bottom flange. Apply another layer of mortar on top of the shower liner and let it dry. Dry-fit the tiles in the shower pan so you know how they fit. Wipe the mortar with a wet cloth to clean up any dust. Apply an 1⁄8 in (0.32 cm) layer of thinset on the shower pan. Press your tiles into the thinset to secure them. Grout the tiles so they’re flush with the drain.
https://www.wikihow.com/Fill-Chipmunk-Holes	How to Fill Chipmunk Holes	If you want to fill a chipmunk hole in your lawn, try using loose dirt. Simply pack the dirt into any burrows you spot. Chipmunk burrows are typically 2 to 3 inches wide, have no soil around them, and will be near stumps, stones, or under patios. For a more permanent solution, use gravel, which is harder for chipmunks to dig through. Use a trowel to fill the hole, then step on the gravel to pack it down. If you spot small chipmunk holes in your home, use caulk to block them. If you find a hole larger than 2 inches in size, fill it with quick-setting concrete instead.	Search for small holes in your yard without soil around them. When chipmunks start digging holes, they collect the soil in their cheeks and make it difficult to spot their burrows. Look for holes that are 2–3 in (5.1–7.6 cm) in diameter near stumps, stones, and woodpiles that offer cover for the chipmunks. Check underneath any outdoor patios or stairs for other holes as well. Pack dirt into any small holes in your lawn for a temporary fix. As you find more chipmunk holes, use potting soil or dirt to fill in the hole as best as you can. Tamp the soil down with your foot or with the back of a shovel so the dirt is tightly packed in the hole. Continue filling in each hole around your yard. Chipmunks may dig through the dirt to get into their burrows again. Check your yard every day to see if any of the holes have reappeared. Use gravel so the chipmunk can’t dig a hole in the same place. Gravel is more difficult for chipmunks to dig through since it doesn't move around as easily. Use a trowel to pour the gravel into the hole until it fills up to the top. Step on the hole to tamp it down and tightly pack the gravel in place. Gravel can be purchased at any home and garden or landscaping store. Try pouring concrete near holes in areas where you aren’t planting anything. Mix quick-setting concrete in a wheelbarrow or bucket following the instructions on the package. Transfer the mixed concrete into the burrow to plug the hole. Let the concrete set and dry for at least 20-30 minutes. Only use concrete in areas where you don't want to plant. Grass may not regrow in areas where you used concrete to fill in chipmunk holes. Build a fence 8 in (20 cm) deep so chipmunks can’t dig into your yard. A tall privacy fence will help keep chipmunks out since they can't climb very well. Put the fence around the perimeter of your yard, making sure the fence extends down at least 8 in (20 cm) into the ground so chipmunks can't get underneath. Avoid using a chainlink fence since chipmunks will be able to squeeze through the holes. For added protection, you can bury mesh 2 in (5.1 cm) deep along the fence line. Set up chipmunk traps around your yard so you can relocate them. Look for catch and release live traps small enough to catch chipmunks. Leave the traps near burrows or in areas where you've seen chipmunks before. Place peanut butter, nuts, or seeds in the trap as bait. Leave the trap open so the chipmunks get used to feeding from it without getting trapped. After 1 week, set the trigger on the trap so it closes next time a chipmunk enters. When you catch the chipmunks, take them to an area at least ⁄ 2 mi (0.80 km) away from your home to release them. Live chipmunk traps can be purchased at lawncare stores or online. Check with your local Department of Natural Resources to see if trapping chipmunks is legal in your area. Spray coyote or fox urine around your yard and burrows to scare chipmunks away. Foxes and coyotes are natural predators for chipmunks, so they'll avoid any areas that have that scent. Spray the urine around the perimeter of your yard and near any holes that you notice in your yard. Reapply the urine every 2-3 weeks to keep chipmunks out. Coyote or fox urine can be purchased from yard care stores or online. The urine also can be purchased in granular form. Keep bird feeders 20–30 ft (6.1–9.1 m) from your home to move a food source. Many chipmunks feed off of the seeds that fall out of bird feeders and make their burrows near them. If you notice chipmunks near your home or feeder, move the feeder away from the area so the chipmunks don't cause any damage. Don't overfill your bird feeders since many seeds will fall to the ground and give chipmunks food. Let any pets outside to scare away chipmunks. Even if your pets don't catch any chipmunks, the presence of predators will keep them out. Let your dogs or cats out a few times each day so they can roam around the yard. If you don't have any pets, you can also place a fake owl in your yard to scare chipmunks. If you use a fake owl, move it every day so it seems that it's alive. Look for holes are cracks that are 2 in (5.1 cm) wide or larger. Chipmunks may try to get into your home during the winter months if there are openings large enough. Look near the foundation of your home for any holes or cracks that chipmunks may be able to squeeze through. Look for broken siding on your exterior walls or shingles on your roof. Chipmunks may climb up and find ways to enter your home. Use caulk or concrete to fill in the outdoor holes that you find. Use clear or white caulk to fill in smaller patches along your exterior. Squeeze the trigger on the caulk applicator to dispense the caulk and seal the area. For holes larger than 2 in (5.1 cm), mix quick-setting concrete to make a patch for the hole. Once concrete is applied, it can be sanded and painted. Cover vents, chimneys, and pipes with mesh so chipmunks can’t fit inside. Check your home for any exposed pipes, vents, or chimney holes. If they don't already have mesh in place, cover the area so chipmunks or other pests can't get inside. Either drive a nail every 1 in (2.5 cm) around the edge of the mesh, or caulk the edges so it stays in place. Mesh sheets can be purchased from your local hardware store. Make sure the material you use is breathable so gases and liquids can still pass through it.	Search for small holes in your yard without soil around them. Pack dirt into any small holes in your lawn for a temporary fix. Use gravel so the chipmunk can’t dig a hole in the same place. Try pouring concrete near holes in areas where you aren’t planting anything. Build a fence 8 in (20 cm) deep so chipmunks can’t dig into your yard. Set up chipmunk traps around your yard so you can relocate them. Spray coyote or fox urine around your yard and burrows to scare chipmunks away. Keep bird feeders 20–30 ft (6.1–9.1 m) from your home to move a food source. Let any pets outside to scare away chipmunks. Look for holes are cracks that are 2 in (5.1 cm) wide or larger. Use caulk or concrete to fill in the outdoor holes that you find. Cover vents, chimneys, and pipes with mesh so chipmunks can’t fit inside.
https://www.wikihow.com/Select-Blooming-Houseplants	How to Select Blooming Houseplants	If your house gets a lot of sunlight, select houseplants like African violets, chrysanthemums, or azaleas for beautiful blooms. Alternatively, try hydrangeas or peace lilies for darker areas. For longer-lasting blooms, try a flowering maple, anthuriums, or hibiscus plants, or opt for a poinsettia to brighten up your home for a couple of months if a seasonal bloom is more your style. Whichever kind of blooms you decide to go with, examine them carefully before buying them to make sure there aren't any brown or yellow spots, which are a sign the plants won't last very long. Additionally, look for houseplants with new flowers or leaf buds since they tend to have better, more vibrant blooms.	Go for African violets for areas with bright light. African violets are easy to grow and bloom year-round. They come in many different varieties, blooming in different shades, often with white-edges on each bloom. They do well in filtered sunlight, such as by a window that gets direct sunlight. Put a sheer curtain up so the houseplant gets just enough light. If you have a bright window spot available, this is the plant for you. It will bloom constantly and produce colorful blooms to brighten up any room. You should water African violets when the soil feels less moist with tepid water. Water these houseplants at the base and do not get any water on their leaves. Try hydrangeas for low light areas. Hydrangeas do well in cooler conditions, such as a room with no direct sunlight but some bright light. They enjoy sitting in soil that is not too dry and require watering on a regular basis. They produce beautiful purple and blue blooms. They can also be put outside in the summer to bloom and kept indoors during winter to keep them away from frost. Choose chrysanthemums for areas with bright light. Chrysanthemums thrive in brightly lit areas, such as a room that gets direct sunlight. They come in a variety of colors and produce large blooms as long as they get enough direct sunlight on a constant basis. You will need to water chrysanthemums on a regular basis to ensure the soil is moist. You will also need to mist the leaves from time to time. Go for azaleas if your home has bright light. Azaleas do well in bright light, but not direct sunlight. Go for these plants if your home has a brightly lit room that is not too warm, as they do better in cooler conditions. A window that gets bright light would be ideal for azaleas. These plants can bloom for three to four weeks at a time. Azaleas require constant water checks to make sure the potting soil does not become too dry. Water the plant until water flows out of the bottom of the pot and get rid of the excess water. Try a peace lily for low lit areas. The peace lily is easy to care for and does well in low light. A spot in a room with less light and low humidity is ideal for this plant. The blooms are cream white and spoon-shaped. This bloom will appear heaviest in the summer months. This plant is easy to grow indoors and only needs moist soil to thrive. Keep in mind peace lilies can be toxic to children or pets if chewed or ingested. Try poinsettias for short term houseplants. Poinsettias are ideal for short term houseplants that will bloom for two to six months. After the blooms fall off, they are often thrown away or used as foliage plants in an outdoor garden. They are popular during Christmas time but also make a lovely indoor houseplant for a sunny spot in your home. Poinsettias do well in warm conditions and need thorough watering on a regular basis. Get hibiscus for a long lasting houseplant. Hibiscus are tropical plants that make great additions to a warm, bright room. They produce large blooms, up to 8 inches in diameter and require lots of indoor light to bloom well. Hibiscus come in annual and perennial types. You will need to keep the soil moist with regular watering for the hibiscus to thrive. Choose a flowering maple for consistent blooms. Flowering maples have red, pink, yellow, or orange blooms that dangle from the branch. They can be grown as a tree, upright, with minimal pruning, or in a hanging basket. They do well in brightly lit areas and bloom on a constant basis. Flowering maples are perennials. If you notice the blooms starting to drop on the flowering maple, it may not be getting enough water. Go for an anthurium for long lasting blooms. Anthuriums can bloom for two months or more and are known to be hardy perennial plants. They produce blooms in pink, red, lavender, and white. You can also cut off the blooms and use them as indoor decoration. These plants need medium to bright light to thrive. They will survive in areas with less light but produce less blooms. Keep in mind anthuriums are poisonous if chewed or eaten by children or pets. Do not keep them indoors if you have pets or children in your home. Check the leaves and foliage for any spots or yellow coloring. Start by examining underneath the foliage, the leaves, and the stems of any brown or yellow spots. Note if the leaves look healthy, with green bright coloring. If the plants have yellow or brown leaves, wilted leaves, or spots on them, they are likely not very healthy. Avoid plants with leaves that look overly shiny or polished, as they may have been treated with chemicals or fertilizer. Go for plants with new flowers or leaf buds. Examine the selection at the grower and opt for plants that have buds or new young flowers. They are often healthier and better quality. They will also often bloom better and have more vibrant blooms. Look for any signs of pests or disease. You should also examine the plants for any signs of pest, such as pests crawling all over the plants or leaves that have bite marks or holes in them. You do not want to bring a plant with pests or disease into your home, as it may infect your other plants and kill them off. Make sure the plants look clean and well potted. They should look healthy in their pot when you buy them. Discuss the maintenance of the houseplant with the grower. If you are buying the houseplants from a grower at a nursery, talk to them about maintaining the plants indoors. Ask them for advice on watering the plants, giving the plants fertilizer, and making sure the plants bloom well. You should also talk to them about warning signs of declining health in the plants so you can nurse the plants back to health if needed. For example, you may ask the grower, “How often should I water the plants?” “What would be the best spot in my home for these plants?” and “What are the signs of disease or decline in these plants?” Opt for low maintenance plants. If you do not have a lot of time to care for the houseplant, you may go for plants that will require only minimal care. Ask the grower about houseplants that will be easy to care for and require very little watering or attention. For example, an anthurium or a peace lily may be a good option for a low maintenance blooming houseplant. You should also avoid houseplants that are poisonous when chewed or swallowed if you have children and pets at home. You can ask the grower for recommendations on this as well.	Go for African violets for areas with bright light. Try hydrangeas for low light areas. Choose chrysanthemums for areas with bright light. Go for azaleas if your home has bright light. Try a peace lily for low lit areas. Try poinsettias for short term houseplants. Get hibiscus for a long lasting houseplant. Choose a flowering maple for consistent blooms. Go for an anthurium for long lasting blooms. Check the leaves and foliage for any spots or yellow coloring. Go for plants with new flowers or leaf buds. Look for any signs of pests or disease. Discuss the maintenance of the houseplant with the grower. Opt for low maintenance plants.
https://www.wikihow.com/Test-Testosterone-Levels	How to Test Testosterone Levels	If you are experiencing symptoms of low testosterone, such as a decrease in sexual desire and fatigue, go to the doctor and have your testosterone levels tested. Your physician will most likely draw a tube of blood from your vein, in addition to a physical exam. Depending on your symptoms and history, your doctor may also want to test for heart disease, thyroid function, high blood pressure, and diabetes. If your blood test results come back abnormal, ask your doctor to test you for testosterone that's bound to other proteins in your blood. Then, talk to your doctor about testosterone replacement therapy if you learn that your testosterone is low. Treatment is typically available in the form of a gel, patch, muscular injection, or edible tablet.	Go to the doctor for a testosterone test. The most common test for testosterone involves your physician drawing a tube of blood from your vein. In addition to the blood sample, your physician will also perform a physical exam. Be prepared for additional tests. Because low testosterone may be an indicator for an underlying problem, like a problem with the pituitary gland, liver disease, an inherited disease, or Addison's disease, your doctor may want to test you for an underlying problem if you have low testosterone. Depending on your physical exam, your symptoms, and your history, other tests may be required after the testosterone test. Your doctor may test for thyroid function, diabetes, high blood pressure, and heart disease. Get an oral test. Testosterone can also be measured in your saliva, though not many mainstream physicians offer this option. The test is reasonably reliable, but it is too new of a method to be totally accepted. Two reputable labs that test for salivary testosterone are ZRTLabs and Labrix. The most common test is for “total testosterone,” which is the testosterone that is bound to other proteins in the blood. If your total testosterone from your screening lab test comes back abnormal, ask to have the test for “free” or bioavailable testosterone. The most important testosterone value is the “free” and/or bioavailable testosterone. This is not always measured because it is not so easy to measure. The tests for “free” or bioavailable testosterone are considered better biomarkers. Consider what affects the test. There are things that might affect the results of your test. Taking medicines with estrogen or testosterone (including birth control), digoxin, spironolactone, and barbiturates may interfere with the test. Medicines for prostate cancer and that raise prolactin levels may also have a negative effect. Hypothyroidism can also interfere with the test. Choose a testosterone replacement therapy. If your testosterone levels are low, talk to your physician about testosterone replacement therapy. Testosterone is available as a gel or patch, muscular injections, or tablets that can be dissolved under the tongue. There are also some natural options including dietary approaches, increased exercise, and herbs such as Tribulus terrestris, Ashwagandha, Ginkgo Biloba, Maca, and Yohimbe. Look for symptoms of low testosterone in men. Testosterone levels vary in different men, so it can be difficult to determine if the levels detected in one man are too low. Monitor your body to see if you have any symptoms of low testosterone. Symptoms of low levels of testosterone in men include : Problems with sexual function. This can include erectile dysfunction, decreased desire for sexual activity, and a decrease in the number and quality of erections. Smaller testes. Emotional problems that can include depression, irritability, anxiety, problems with memory or concentration, or a lack of self-confidence. Sleep disruption. Increased fatigue or a general overall lack of energy. Body changes that include increased belly fat, decreased muscle mass along with decreased strength and endurance, decreases in cholesterol levels, softening of the bones, and decreased bone density. Swollen or tender breasts. Loss of body hair. Hot flashes. Check for symptoms of low testosterone in women. Women can have low testosterone as well. The symptoms present differently than they do for a man. The symptoms of low testosterone in women include: Decreased sexual desire. Fatigue. Decreased vaginal lubrication. Decide if you are at risk for low testosterone. Low testosterone can result from different things. You may want to test your testosterone levels if you have experienced any of the following: Aging. Obesity and/or diabetes mellitus. Testicular injury, trauma, or infection. Radiation or chemotherapy for cancer. Chronic diseases, such as HIV/AIDS, or liver and kidney disease. Certain genetic conditions, like Klinefelter syndrome, hemochromatosis, Kallmann syndrome, Prader-Willi syndrome and others. Alcoholism. Drug abuse including heroin,marijuana, opioid or pain medication abuse. Chronic smoking. Abuse of androgens in the past. Determine if you need a testosterone level test. Testosterone tests are performed when a person displays certain characteristics. Tests are commonly done for the following reasons: If a man is having infertility problems If a man is having sexual problems If a boy under 15 years of age shows early signs of puberty or an older boy shows no signs of puberty If a woman develops male features, such as excessive hair growth and a deep voice If a woman has irregular menstrual periods If a man with prostate cancer is taking certain medicines If a man has osteoporosis Be aware testosterone levels vary. Levels of testosterone vary from man to man (and woman to woman). Testosterone levels will vary during the day, and vary from day to day. Levels are generally higher in the morning and lower later in the day.	Go to the doctor for a testosterone test. Be prepared for additional tests. Get an oral test. The most common test is for “total testosterone,” which is the testosterone that is bound to other proteins in the blood. Consider what affects the test. Choose a testosterone replacement therapy. Look for symptoms of low testosterone in men. Check for symptoms of low testosterone in women. Decide if you are at risk for low testosterone. Determine if you need a testosterone level test. Be aware testosterone levels vary.
https://www.wikihow.com/Test-Peripheral-Vision	How to Test Peripheral Vision	Your peripheral vision picks up on movement coming from your sides, and it helps you navigate through the world. If you think you have issues with your peripheral vision, make an appointment with your eye doctor so they can test you. They'll likely give you a simple visual field exam, in which you'll be asked to cover one eye and identify different objects in your visual field. If they want to do further testing, they might have you look into a machine that flashes lights in your peripheral vision. You'll be asked to push a button every time you see a flash to determine your peripheral vision strength.	Start with a simple Confrontational Visual Field Exam. For this peripheral vision test, your eye doctor will sit right across from you and ask you to cover one eye. You'll be asked to stare straight ahead while they slowly bring one of their hands from one side into your peripheral vision. Say “OK” or “I see it” when you detect their hand moving. This is a standard test during most eye exams. You may be asked to repeat the test several times with each eye. Make sure you keep staring straight ahead. You're only cheating yourself if you try peeking to the side a little in order to catch an earlier glimpse of their hand. Participate in an Automated Perimetry Exam. If your eye doctor wants to further test your peripheral vision, they may ask you to place your chin on a chin-rest and stare straight into a cone- or dome-shaped contraption. There will be an object or marking in the center of the cone/dome for you to stare at. The machine will create flashes of light that you should be able to glimpse in your peripheral vision, and there will be a button for you to press every time you do see one of them. Only press the button when you detect a flash of light. Pretending to see things that you don't probably won't help you “do better” on the test, and may just mask vision issues that need to be addressed. Map your peripheral vision with a Target Screen Exam. This test may be used if your eye doctor wants a more detailed analysis of your peripheral vision. You'll sit about 1 metre (3.3 ft) from a screen with a target in the center of it. You'll stare straight at the target and verbally tell your doctor every time you detect movement elsewhere on the screen. In the process, the machine that conducts the test will create a map of your peripheral vision. This will allow your doctor to identify any weak spots, gaps, or areas of concern. Discuss your results and any recommended treatments. In most cases, problems with peripheral vision are caused by underlying conditions such as glaucoma. If you are diagnosed with glaucoma, you'll probably be treated with prescription eye drops and possibly laser surgery. In some cases, wearing eyeglasses with prism lenses can slightly improve peripheral vision. Especially if your peripheral vision has been affected by an injury, undergoing regular eye exercises with a physical therapist may help as well. Prepare a 60 by 30 cm (24 by 12 in) piece of cardboard for use. The sheet of cardboard can be larger than these dimensions, but not smaller. If it is larger, use a ruler and pencil to draw a 60 by 30 cm (24 by 12 in) rectangle on it. Along one of the long edges of this 60 x 30 rectangle, stick a pushpin at the halfway point (so it's 30 cm (12 in) from each end). You can also use a piece of rigid foam board instead of cardboard. Draw a large half-circle within the 60 by 30 cm (24 by 12 in) rectangle. Tie one end of a piece of string to the pushpin, and the other end to a pencil placed at the midpoint of the opposite long edge of the cardboard. Keep the string pulled tight and move the pencil back and forth over the cardboard sheet. The string will guide it to make a half-circle shape. Draw a smaller half-circle with a 2 cm (0.79 in) radius. Wind the string around the pencil until the distance between the pencil and pushpin is reduced to 2 cm (0.79 in). Trace a second, much smaller half-circle onto the board. This smaller circle will become the cut-out for your nose. Cut your cardboard into the shape of a rainbow. Use sturdy scissors or a utility knife to cut along both the larger and smaller half-circles. It doesn't have to be perfect, but take your time to ensure a smooth curve to your rainbow-shaped board. If this is part of a child's science project, an adult should supervise this task or do it themselves. Scissors and especially utility knives can be very dangerous. Tape a cup to the underside of the board to serve as a handle. Pick a spot roughly halfway between where the pushpin and pencil were when you started tracing. Use double-sided tape or glue to attach the bottom of a disposable plastic cup to what will be the underside of your board. You'll hold the cup with both hands to keep the board in position while taking the test. Insert a pushpin into the apex of the rainbow shape. Stick the pushpin you used earlier back into the cardboard, this time just short of the spot where you originally placed the pencil to start tracing. This will serve as your focal point while you take the test. The pushpin might stick all the way through the cardboard, so be careful not to prick your finger on it while testing! Cut 6 rectangular strips from red, yellow, and green construction paper. Each strip should be 10 by 2 cm (3.94 by 0.79 in). Use rigid construction paper, or use markers to color strips of a rigid white paper (like index cards). You can use a different combination of easy-to-distinguish colors, but red, yellow, and green are the ideal combination. Use scissors to give half of the colored strips a pointed end. Take 3 of the strips (one of each color) and trim off two of the corners on one of the short sides of each. This will create a triangular shape at one end of each of them. When your friend uses one of these triangular strips during the test, make sure they hold it with the pointed end up. Hold the board to your face with your nose in the small cutout. Use the handle (the attached cup) to hold the board just below eye level. The bridge of your nose should remain in contact with the small cardboard cutout. Keep the board steady and level in front of you during the test. Stare at the pushpin while a partner holds up a colored paper strip. Focus your eyes on the pushpin that's stuck in the cardboard, and don't look away from that spot. While you do this, have a friend hold up one of the colored strips at one of the far ends of the board—that is, at either “end of the rainbow.” Your friend needs to remain as still as possible during the test. It may be easiest for them to sit or stand directly across from you, past the pushpin. But keep your focus on the pushpin, not them. The paper strip should be beyond your field of vision when at the starting point. If you can detect it being there, make sure you're staring straight ahead and that your partner is holding the paper strip in the corner of the board. Tell your helper when you first notice movement. Have your friend slowly slide the paper strip along the curved edge of the board. As soon as you're able to detect movement in your peripheral vision, let your friend know by saying “OK” or something similar. They should pause for a moment, then continue sliding the paper strip. If you want to keep a record of your results, have your friend quickly mark this point on the underside of the board with a pencil before proceeding further. Because of how peripheral vision functions—relying more on the rods in your eyes that are sensitive to movement, rather than the color-sensitive cones—you should notice that something is moving before you can make out its shape or color. Continue the test until you detect color and shape as well. As your friend continues to move the paper strip into your field of vision, indicate when you can see more details. For instance, say “red” and then “triangle” when you see that they are using the red strip of paper with the triangular top. If desired, they can mark these spots with pencil on the underside of the board as well. Repeat the test on the other side and with the other strips. You can do the test as many times as you like, but consider doing it 3 times on each side to test your left and right peripheral vision. For a more accurate test regarding your perception of color and shape, have your friend use one strip of each color on each side, in random order. For instance: red triangle to your right; yellow rectangle to your left; yellow triangle to your right; green triangle to your left; red rectangle to your right; green rectangle to your left. Change the conditions of the test slightly, if desired. For example, you can reduce the light level in the room, give your eyes a few minutes to adjust, and repeat the test to see how your results compare. Or, you can write random letters or numbers on the strips and tell your friend as soon as you can read them.	Start with a simple Confrontational Visual Field Exam. Participate in an Automated Perimetry Exam. Map your peripheral vision with a Target Screen Exam. Discuss your results and any recommended treatments. Prepare a 60 by 30 cm (24 by 12 in) piece of cardboard for use. Draw a large half-circle within the 60 by 30 cm (24 by 12 in) rectangle. Draw a smaller half-circle with a 2 cm (0.79 in) radius. Cut your cardboard into the shape of a rainbow. Tape a cup to the underside of the board to serve as a handle. Insert a pushpin into the apex of the rainbow shape. Cut 6 rectangular strips from red, yellow, and green construction paper. Use scissors to give half of the colored strips a pointed end. Hold the board to your face with your nose in the small cutout. Stare at the pushpin while a partner holds up a colored paper strip. Tell your helper when you first notice movement. Continue the test until you detect color and shape as well. Repeat the test on the other side and with the other strips. Change the conditions of the test slightly, if desired.
https://www.wikihow.com/Make-Cinnamon-French-Toast	How to Make Cinnamon French Toast	To make cinnamon French toast, start by whisking eggs, milk, and cinnamon together in a large bowl until they're completely incorporated. Next, dip slices of bread into the mixture, allowing it to soak both sides of the bread. Then, melt butter in a large skillet before adding the pieces of bread to the pan. Once the toast is golden brown on one side, flip it with a spatula to cook the other side. Continue dipping and frying slices of toast until you've used up all the bread.	Choose a type of bread to use. Many people exclusively use generic white bread for this recipe. However, most kinds of bread can be used to make cinnamon French toast. When choosing bread, avoid bread with large holes in it as it won't hold the custard mixture very well. Instead: Use slices of homemade cinnamon swirl bread to enhance the cinnamon flavors in this recipe. Crumbly country-style breads make a sturdy, eggy French toast. Use slices of French bread to make decadent, chewy cinnamon French toast. For a firmer texture, use stale bread instead of fresh bread. Create the custard mixture. Whisk the eggs, milk, and cinnamon together in a large mixing bowl. If you don't have a whisk, use a large fork instead. Stir the mixture until the eggs are completely incorporated into the milk. Preheat a large skillet. Choose a large flat-bottomed metal or cast-iron skillet. Place the skillet on the stove over medium heat and add two tablespoons of butter. Once the butter has melted and is bubbling, the skillet is hot enough to use. If the butter begins turning dark brown or smoking, turn down the heat to avoid burning the butter. Dip the bread into the custard mixture. Place a slice of bread into the custard mixture and press it down gently with a fork. Use the fork to flip the bread over and soak the other side. As soon as the bread is completely soaked, remove it from the custard mixture and place it on the skillet. Fresh bread should be soaked quickly to avoid crumbling. Stale bread can be soaked slightly longer as it's sturdier. Cook the toast. Let the French toast brown in the hot butter until the bottom is golden brown. Check the color by using a fork to peek under the slice. Next, flip the toast and allow the other side to cook until it's golden brown. If your skillet is large enough, you can cook several slices at once. However, take care not to crowd the pan or the bread won't get crispy. Set the cooked slices aside. After the French toast is golden brown, remove it from the skillet and set it aside on a plate. Continue dipping and frying slices of toast until you've used up all of the bread. If you run out of the custard mixture, mix up another batch and continue cooking. Keep large batches of French toast warm by placing them in the oven at 350 degrees Fahrenheit (176 degrees Celsius.) Combine the syrup ingredients. Find a deep metal sauce pan with thick sides. Next, add the white sugar, brown sugar, flour, cinnamon, water, and vanilla extract. Use a whisk or large spoon to mix the ingredients into a slurry. Boil the mixture. Place the saucepan on your stove over medium-high heat. Heat the mixture, stirring constantly, and let it come to a boil. When the mixture is boiling, you will see large bubbles rising rapidly to the surface. Lower the heat to medium-low. Once the mixture is boiling, lower the heat and let it simmer. A mixture is simmering when small, active bubbles rise to the surface. Continue simmering the mixture until it thickens into a syrup. This process will take about ten minutes. Stir the mixture while it simmers. Let the syrup cool. Remove the syrup from the heat and set it aside. Let the mixture cool for about ten minutes, stirring occasionally. Once the syrup is room temperature, serve it over cinnamon French toast, pancakes, sausages, or waffles. Serve the toast with traditional toppings. Many people enjoy eating cinnamon French toast with standard French toast toppings. Most toppings are sweet or creamy and add a delicious variation of flavor. These toppings can include: Sweet syrups, such as cinnamon syrup, maple syrup, or fruit syrup Butter Whipped cream Fresh berries Crumbled bacon Make a sweet and salty sandwich. The sweet flavors of cinnamon French toast pair perfectly with crunchy, savory sandwich fillings. Add some fillings to two pieces of toast and serve the sandwich dry or with maple syrup. For example: Create a sandwich with breakfast foods such as bacon, a fried egg, and sausage. Make a cinnamon Monte Cristo with melted gruyere cheese and sliced ham. Craft a decadent, creamy sandwich by filling cinnamon French toast with crispy bacon and tangy goat cheese. Serve cinnamon French toast with ice cream. Cinnamon French toast makes an excellent dessert. First, place a slice of hot French toast on a plate. Next, add a generous scoop of French vanilla ice cream. The warm cinnamon flavors pair wonderfully with the cold, creamy vanilla notes of the ice cream. Top the dessert with whipped cream, cinnamon syrup, or a dash of cinnamon sugar.	Choose a type of bread to use. Create the custard mixture. Preheat a large skillet. Dip the bread into the custard mixture. Cook the toast. Set the cooked slices aside. Combine the syrup ingredients. Boil the mixture. Lower the heat to medium-low. Let the syrup cool. Serve the toast with traditional toppings. Make a sweet and salty sandwich. Serve cinnamon French toast with ice cream.
https://www.wikihow.com/Blow-Smoke-from-Your-Mouth-Without-Using-a-Cigarette	How to Blow Smoke from Your Mouth Without Using a Cigarette	If you want to show your friends a cool trick, try blowing smoke from your mouth without using a cigarette. One way to blow smoke is to use cold air from your freezer. After opening your freezer door, inhale deeply through your nose. After you take your breath of cold air, breathe out through your mouth. You'll need to do this in a cold setting, so keep your face in the freezer. The combination of your warm breath on a cold surface or in a cold area will make visible smoke. For another effect, after inhaling the cold air, exhale onto a piece of cold glass. The difference in temperature between the cold glass and your warm breath will make the smoke.	Find a cold air source. Using cold air will help you create water vapor from your mouth, which will appear to be smoke. If it is winter, use the cold air outside, or use the cold air coming from your freezer. Using winter air is easy to do, but because many people know how to do this, it's not a very clever way to produce smoke. Try to use a freezer if possible because it will give you a more exciting effect. Keep in mind that because the source of cold air from the freezer is smaller, smoke may be harder to produce or be more difficult to see. Take a deep breath. Open your freezer and inhale deeply. Try to place your face as far in your freezer as possible so that you can inhale the most cold air. If you are outside, just inhale the cold air around you. Exhale. After you have taken a deep breath of cold air, breathe out through your mouth. You will need to do this in a cold setting, so don't remove your face from the freezer. The combination of your warm breath on a cold surface or in a cold area is what causes the visible smoke. For a more visible, lasting effect of smoke, try blowing on a piece of glass. After you have inhaled the cold air, exhale directly onto the glass. This glass will need to be very cold as well so that the difference of temperatures between the cold glass and your warm breath will create the effect of smoke. After blowing on the glass, the cloud of smoke you have produced will condense onto the glass, making it last longer than if breathed into the air. This "smoke" is produced because as you blow warm air, the water vapor molecules produced by your breath transfer energy to the colder air. This causes the water vapor molecules to move more slowly and bind together to form the fog of tiny droplets of liquid water, which is actually what you are producing. Purchase theatrical smoke creators. There are a lot of products on the market for creating fake smoke on stage, one of which is called "Pure Smoke." This product is similar to an e-cigarette, but instead of inhaling the smoke, you can squeeze the trigger and it will generate vapor. This device takes AA batteries for its battery pack, which is connected to a long wire that reaches the squeezable trigger mechanism. The mechanism is made to be attached to your chest, but can be placed anywhere. A hose then runs from the mechanism to the dispenser tip, which you can place near your mouth so it would appear as if you are smoking. Pure Smoke creates similar vapor to that of fog machines used on stage, but in lesser quantities. When purchasing this product, you will receive 11 cartridges, which is about 850 puffs of smokes. It may be a little pricy to some, but it's effective! Make sure when buying Pure Smoke that you are buying the kind specifically to create fog or fake smoke on stage. There are other types of pure smoke used for Hookah and electronic cigarettes, so you'll want to avoid those. Create or buy toy cigarettes. These can be very useful if you are trying to trick someone and make them believe you are smoking a real cigarette. They can be purchased online, or you can create your own. The trick to these cigarettes is to blow out -- don't inhale. To make toy cigarettes, take a white piece of paper, roll it up, and tape it closed. Place cotton at one end and then pour a white powder into the other end. Now, blow from either end and it will look like you are smoking a cigarette! Be aware that these cigarettes don't last very long. They allow you to make a few puffs of smoke, but because you are just making smoke with the powder inside the cigarette, you won't be able to use it for hours on end. Use Smarties. A really unique way to create smoke is by using the powder that ground up Smarties create. You can do this by grinding up the candy and rolling it into a piece of paper like a toy cigarette, or you can use the wrapper. When using the wrapper, smash the Smarties inside the wrapper, keeping both sides wrapped and then open up one end and gently inhale the Smartie dust and breathe out. Unlike the toy cigarettes, you will inhale the smoke from the Smarties, but make sure you don't take too deep of a breath. Try to keep the air in your mouth, not letting it go to the back of your throat and into your diaphragm.	Find a cold air source. Take a deep breath. Exhale. Purchase theatrical smoke creators. Create or buy toy cigarettes. Use Smarties.
https://www.wikihow.com/Help-a-Dog-Overcome-a-Fear-of-Fireworks-or-Thunder	How to Help a Dog Overcome a Fear of Fireworks or Thunder	To help your dog overcome a fear of fireworks or thunder, close all of the windows, blinds, curtains, and doors to minimize the stimulation. You can also give your dog a safe place to hide, like a crate or under your bed. If you're anticipating a large storm or fireworks display, try plugging in a pheromone diffuser to give off synthetic pheromones that can help dogs feel safe. Alternatively, put a thundershirt on your dog to help it feel secure. If your dog is so fearful that it tries to escape, harm itself, or loses control of its bladder, see your vet to discuss using tranquilizers or sedatives.	Minimize the stimulation. Insulate your dog from the bright lights and loud noises of storms and fireworks. Bring the dog indoors, and close all windows and doors. Draw the curtains so the dog can't see the flashes. If appropriate (not during an electrical storm) put the TV on with the volume low, to act as a distraction. Remember to act normally and go about your normal business so as to send out the message that everything is OK and you aren't worried. Give the dog a safe place to hide. A fearful dog instinctively wants to hide. If the dog chooses to go to ground and hide under a bed or behind a sofa then let it. You may wish to provide additional security by laying a blanket over the edge of the bed to provide additional sound insulation. If the dog is crate trained, it may wish to go to its crate. Cover most of the crate with a thick blanket so that it is even more cave-like and secure than normal. Place something with your scent on it inside the crate to add to the dog's feelings of security. If your dog is not crate trained then consider doing so as part of your strategy for helping him overcome this fear. Use pheromones. When a lot of fireworks are anticipated plug-in DAP diffuser in your house beforehand. These devices give off a synthetic dog pheromone that makes dogs feel safe and secure. The diffusers help to give an anxious dog heightened feelings of security, and can diffuse some of its anxiety. Put a Thundershirt on the dog. These work by fitting the dog snugly and pressing against its body. This is akin to swaddling a young baby, which gives a sense of security and safety. For some dogs it takes the edge off of the anxiety and helps to bolster their confidence. Consider using medications. Some dogs are so fearful they try to escape, harm themselves, or lose control of their bladder or bowels. If your dog has this type of extreme anxiety then get it checked by your vet. If there is no medical explanation for the dog's extreme fear, then the vet may be able to prescribe medications to calm the dog during the event. There is no one drug that is perfect, but one useful combination is diazepam and propranolol. Diazepam is a tranquilizer, which lessens the feelings of anxiety, while propranolol is a beta blocker, which prevents the heart from racing. This combination helps to keep the animal relaxed during a scary event. Acepromazine (ACP) sedates the dog but it still experiences the fear. So externally the dog seems improved, but it is still fearful. This is why this drug has fallen out of favor. There's a new product called Sileo that's licensed for the treatment of sound phobia in dogs. Simply place the gel on the inside of the dog's cheek to help keep it calm. Sileo is a prescription-only product, so talk to your vet about getting some if you think this may be a good solution for your pup. Act normally. It is important that the owner ignores any fearful behavior the dog is displaying. While it is perfectly natural to want to reassure an animal in distress, in reality it trains the dog to give in to the distressed behavior. Retraining is doomed from the start unless you understand this. By acting unconcerned you send out a strong message that you are not worried and therefore the dog has nothing to be fearful of. Never force a dog to face its fears head on. In other words, don't take a fearful dog to a fireworks show and expect it to adjust. This is a technique called sensory flooding and it is inhumane. The dog is bombarded by what it fears and instead of overcoming that fear, the dog may become traumatized and emotionally damaged instead. Expose the dog to a very low level of the feared sound. Train the dog to remain calm during the sound by rewarding calm behavior with a treat or affection. This is different than sensory flooding because you are using very low levels of sound and working gradually. To do this, purchase a CD of the sound the dog fears, for example fireworks or thunderstorms. The idea is to play the CD on the lowest possible volume so that the dog remains calm. Praise the dog and reward it for being calm in the presence of the sounds. If possible, leave the CD playing quietly in the background for an hour at a time but don't leave the dog alone while it is playing. Gradually increase the volume of the feared sound. Once the dog is regularly taking no notice of the quiet background sounds, turn the volume up a tiny amount. This should be slightly louder than previously, but not enough to make the dog shows signs of anxiety, such as lip licking, pacing, whining, shivering, or shaking. Again, reward the dog with love or treats for being in the presence of the alarming noise, but not being fearful of it. Repeat this exposure until you are sure the dog is not reacting at all, and then you are ready to turn the volume up one more notch. Expose the dog to the CD sounds on a daily basis. If at any stage the dog becomes fearful, restart the next session with the volume one notch lower. Don't forget to act very relaxed yourself while doing this training. The dog needs to see that you are unconcerned. It may take a large amount of time, but with determination and dedication, it is possible to help your dog overcome its fear of fireworks or thunder.	Minimize the stimulation. Give the dog a safe place to hide. Use pheromones. Put a Thundershirt on the dog. Consider using medications. Act normally. Never force a dog to face its fears head on. Expose the dog to a very low level of the feared sound. Gradually increase the volume of the feared sound. Expose the dog to the CD sounds on a daily basis.
https://www.wikihow.com/Grill-Filet-Mignon	How to Grill Filet Mignon	To get the best flavor from your filet mignon, brush it with a bit of oil before grilling. Then, if you have a charcoal grill, create a hot side and a cool side with your coals. Cook the filet over high heat for 2-5 minutes. Alternatively, to cook a filet mignon on a gas grill, cook the filet until the internal temperature reaches 120-160 degrees Fahrenheit. Either way, once the filet is done cooking allow it to rest for 5-10 minutes before cutting in to it.	Choose a thick cut of meat. The thicker cut of meat you get, the better. That's because with a thicker cut it's easier to get a nice, crispy crust on the outside without overcooking the inside. The best thickness for filet mignon is anywhere from 2 to 3 inches (5.1 to 7.6 cm) thick. That may seem like a very thick cut, but remember that the steak will shrink a bit as it cooks. Go to your local butcher and ask him to cut the filet from the tenderloin. This ensures both a fresher cut and the ability to specify how thick you want your filet to be. Oh, and you get to support your local butcher instead of a supermarket conglomerate. What if you have a thin cut of filet mignon? Don't fret, but adjust your cooking accordingly. Instead of slow-cooking your filet, you'll need to sear it over extremely high heat for a short period of time to get a crispy outside and a juicy, medium-rare inside. Resist the temptation to outfit your filet with additional rubs or smother it in marinades. Beware of recipes that call for rubs or marinades when it comes to filet mignon. All you need is salt and pepper. Using rubs or marinades on filet mignon is likely to make the meat less tasty, not more. Decide whether to salt the filet before or after grilling. Some cooks choose to salt the steak after cooking it, and that's perfectly acceptable. Most cooks, however, salt the filet before grilling, although many of them make the mistake of salting too soon before cooking. Salt at least 40 minutes to an hour before grilling. Salt brings moisture out to the surface of the steak. Wouldn't that be bad news for a moist, juicy steak? you ask. It is, if you don't salt far enough in advance. For the first 30 minutes of salting, moisture comes out to the surface of the steak, accumulating in small puddles. At this point, cooking the steak would be ill-advised. After 30 minutes, some of the moisture drawn out by the salt seeps back into the meat. The process is called osmosis , and it also makes for more tender meat. The longer you leave your steaks out after 40 minutes, the more of the salty water travels back into the steak, flavoring and tenderizing it. Wait for the filet to come to room temperature. Most cooks do this while they're waiting for the salt to do its thing. Meat that has come to room temperature before cooking cooks faster and more evenly. Gone are the days of charred outsides and cold insides. If possible, use lump charcoal over briquettes and try to stay away from gas grills. Gas grills aren't horrible, but they don't burn hot and can impart a gasoline smell to your precious steaks. (Ew.) Stick to charcoal instead. Funny as it might seem, using charcoal instead of gas gives you greater control over the cooking process. That's because charcoal is a really solid heat source. It burns hot — much hotter than gas — and burns steadily. If you know how to master charcoal, it gives you a better final product. Briquettes are fine, but they're nothing special. Many of them have unwanted additives that give off a faint aroma, so if used, they should be white all over before you start grilling. Lump charcoal burns hotter, is easier to adjust the temperature, and is all-natural. Position your coals to form a hot side and a cool side in your grill. Move all your coals over to one half of the grill; that will be your "hot" half. The half without any coals will be your "cool" side. Brush your filet with a little bit of oil. Many choose to use a neutral oil, like groundnut oil, because it doesn't have much of a taste. Olive oil is perfectly acceptable for a more distinct taste. Remember that a little oil goes a long way. Use no more than a tablespoon for each filet. Decide whether to cook your filet primarily over high heat or low heat. There are pretty much two camps when it comes to how to cook meat: the high heat camp and the low heat camp. The high heat camp is straightforward: Cook the filet for 2-5 minutes per side over high heat, searing it to seal in the juices. While this method can certainly produce a fine filet mignon, the "searing to seal in the juices" idea has been debunked. In fact, the temperature to which you cook the meat is the most important factor in keeping meat juicy. Placing it over high heat will accelerate the loss of juices. The low heat camp uses this fact — the hotter the temperature, the more juices lost — to champion a different approach. Instead of searing first, the meat is cooked over indirect, "cool" heat until it's just below its ideal temperature. It's then seared to develop a crust and depth of flavor. Cook your filet over indirect, "cool" heat until the filet is about 15° - 20° F from your ideal temperature. Placing over indirect heat will slow the loss of juices, cooking the steak while keeping it moist. Don't be afraid to stick a meat thermometer into your filet. It's a myth and old wives' tale that piercing your filet with a thermometer one time will cause all its juices to run out. (If you don't have a thermometer, you can always use the finger test , although it's less reliable.) 120° F (48.8° C) = Rare 130° F (54.4° C) = Medium rare 140° F (60° C) = Medium 150° F (65.5° C) = Medium well 160° F (71.1° C) = Well done For a medium-rare filet, transfer it over to the direct, "hot" side of the grill when its temperature reaches 110° to 115° F. Sear the meat on both sides, using tongs to flip the filet when necessary. Remove the filet when its internal temperature is 5° F away from its ideal temperature. The steak will continue cooking even after it has been removed from the heat. Make sure to let the steak rest for 5 to 10 minutes before cutting into it. Cover the steak with aluminum foil and let rest for a while, even if the temptation is killing you. A steak that is cut into immediately after cooking will lose more of its juices than a steak that is allowed to rest for 10 minutes. When a steak is cooked, its muscles tighten up on the outside. This pushes all the juices to the inside of the meat, where the muscles aren't as tight because they're not as hot. If you cut into the center of your filet immediately after cooking, the juices accumulated there will simply run out, leaving you with a drier steak. If you let your filet rest, however, the muscles begin to relax and the juices move from the center of the steak back out, dispersing more evenly. You'll hold on to 7% more weight in juices by waiting an extra 10 minutes after cooking has finished. Pepper your steak generously. Many chefs hold off on peppering the steak until after it's been grilled because they don't want the pepper to be burned while grilling. If you're the type of chef who doesn't mind burned pepper mingling with your filet mignon, go ahead and pepper when you salt the filet. If not, pepper now, right before serving. Serve and enjoy your perfectly cooked king of steaks. Savor each tender, buttery, succulent bite and give thanks to the being that created such a delicious cut of meat.	Choose a thick cut of meat. Resist the temptation to outfit your filet with additional rubs or smother it in marinades. Decide whether to salt the filet before or after grilling. Wait for the filet to come to room temperature. If possible, use lump charcoal over briquettes and try to stay away from gas grills. Position your coals to form a hot side and a cool side in your grill. Brush your filet with a little bit of oil. Decide whether to cook your filet primarily over high heat or low heat. Cook your filet over indirect, "cool" heat until the filet is about 15° - 20° F from your ideal temperature. For a medium-rare filet, transfer it over to the direct, "hot" side of the grill when its temperature reaches 110° to 115° F. Remove the filet when its internal temperature is 5° F away from its ideal temperature. Make sure to let the steak rest for 5 to 10 minutes before cutting into it. Pepper your steak generously. Serve and enjoy your perfectly cooked king of steaks.
https://www.wikihow.com/Spot-Fake-News	How to Spot Fake News	To spot fake news, look for red flags, like sloppy website design and frequent spelling or grammatical errors. Additionally, keep an eye out for URLs that try to mimic legitimate news sources, like abc.co instead of abc.com. You should also look for a byline so you can research the author and make sure they're a legitimate journalist. If you're still not sure about a story, try going to websites that debunk fake news stories, like FactCheck.org and Politifact.com.	Look for spelling errors and dramatic punctuation. You might find an occasional typo in an authoritative news source, but lots of spelling mistakes and poor grammar are red flags. A reliable story's content should meet academic standards. Be skeptical if you see phrases in all capitals, excessive punctuation (!!!), and other attention-grabbing devices. Meeting academic standards doesn't mean using complicated words and sentence structures. Rather, it means an article (or a television or radio script) is written clearly, supports its claims with evidence, and is free of spelling and grammatical errors. Make sure an article is current. Check the news story's date, as older articles might include outdated information. Additionally, someone on your newsfeed might have shared an old story that has been disproven or is controversial when taken out of context. For example, suppose someone shared an article about a military conflict from 5 years ago, but the nations involved are now at peace. If you read the story without checking the date, it might seem like those nations were once again at war. Check for expert quotes that support the story’s claims. Good journalism relies on authoritative sources and citations. Look for direct quotations from experts that actually support the story's claims and weren't taken out of context. For instance, if an article is about a new treatment for a disease, it should cite doctors who specialize in that disease. Make sure a quote is consistent with the content of the news story. Suppose an article claims that a supplement is definitely a new cure for arthritis and quotes a doctor who said, “Preliminary findings are promising, but we need more research.” The article took the quote out of context and exaggerated the doctor's statement. Run a reverse image search. When you right click an image, you'll see an option to search Google for the image. When you search for the image, you'll be able to see other websites that have featured it. A credible news story should include its own photography. Be skeptical if you see that a photograph is a stock image or stolen from another source. Figure out the news story’s purpose. Ask yourself why the author and publisher created the article or broadcast. What is the information's purpose, and who benefits from it being spread? A credible story should report facts without trying to promote some ulterior motive. For example, some news stories are satirical and meant to entertain. You could also come across a story that's meant to sell a product. Suppose an article about a supplement that cures arthritis was published by a company that produces the supplement. That article is a marketing device, not a credible source of information. Consider how the story makes you feel. Check your own biases and emotional reaction. If the story fills you with rage or makes you feel smug about your beliefs, it might not be a balanced source of information. Ask yourself, “Is this story trying to trigger an extreme emotional reaction? Is its tone balanced and informative? Does it seem preachy or eager to confirm an opinion?” Search for the author’s other work. Find out who wrote the story and whether they're a knowledgeable source. Look for other published works, where they were educated, and their professional experience. If there's no byline, which names an article's author, ditch the article. When you run a search on the author, it's wise to cross reference your findings. For instance, you might find the author's website, where they claim they've won 3 Pulitzer Prizes. However, when you check the full list of winners, you find that no one with their last name has ever won a Pulitzer. Learn about the publisher’s point of view. Go to the organization's website and visit its “About” section. Check if they include satirical information or a specific viewpoint other than reporting objective facts. See if they include anything about employing professional news journalists, or if their content is created by people without professional experience. For instance, The Onion's About page mentions its readership is 4.3 trillion, which is a lot more than the Earth's population. Aside from obvious satire, be skeptical if an organization talks about conspiracies or advancing a particular ideology. Look for strange URLs, sloppy website design, and other red flags. A suspicious news website might have an unusual URL that tries to mimic a legitimate news source, such as abc.com.co instead of abc.com. In addition, a credible news organization has its website professionally designed. Be skeptical of sloppy, amateurish formatting and frequent spelling or grammatical errors. Check the publisher’s advertisements. Read or listen to the ads featured on websites, in print, or on television and radio broadcasts. A news story on a topic related to an advertised product or service isn't reliable. For instance, suppose you're reading an article about a cure-all supplement. If you see ads for the supplement, don't trust the article. Search for articles on the topic published by other news organizations. When you come across a news story, run a search on the topic to verify its authenticity. See if other news organizations are reporting on it, or if there's just one random source making unsubstantiated claims. The British Broadcasting Corporation (BBC), The New York Times , The Washington Journal , National Public Radio (NPR), and The Atlantic are just a few of the most respected news organizations. Consult fact checkers. In addition to reputable news sources, there are a number of websites that debunk fake news stories. If you come across a suspicious story, see if it's been vetted by sites such as: FactCheck.org ( http://www.factcheck.org/ ) Politifact ( http://www.politifact.com/ ) The International Fact-Checking Network ( https://www.poynter.org/channels/fact-checking ) Ask someone you know who has expertise on the topic. When in doubt, get in touch with someone who could help you better understand the topic or recommend reliable sources. It could be a teacher or professor, librarian, or someone who works in the industry discussed in the suspicious article. For instance, ask your history or social studies teacher about a suspicious article you read about foreign affairs. If you read an article about a new diet fad, talk to your biology teacher or a medical professional in your social network.	Look for spelling errors and dramatic punctuation. Make sure an article is current. Check for expert quotes that support the story’s claims. Run a reverse image search. Figure out the news story’s purpose. Consider how the story makes you feel. Search for the author’s other work. Learn about the publisher’s point of view. Look for strange URLs, sloppy website design, and other red flags. Check the publisher’s advertisements. Search for articles on the topic published by other news organizations. Consult fact checkers. Ask someone you know who has expertise on the topic.
https://www.wikihow.com/Draw-a-Football-Helmet	How to Draw a Football Helmet	To draw a football helmet, start by drawing a large circle with a smaller circle inside it toward the bottom. After drawing the circles, draw a curved line at the bottom that looks like the lower edge of a helmet. Next, draw a slanted letter "A" extending from the lower half of the helmet. Then, connect the bottom tip of the "A" with the upper line of the letter. Finally, outline the details of the face mask and shell of the helmet, and add details, like a team logo.	Draw a big circle. On the lower half portion of the big circle, draw a smaller circle. Draw a curve line that will serve as the outline of the helmet. Draw a slanted "A" on the right side of the drawing. Draw a vertical line at the tip of the lower side of the "A" and connect that line with the upper line of the "A" using a curved line. Outline the drawing to complete the details of a face mask. Outline the shell of the helmet. Add designs as desired. Colour accordingly. Draw a big circle and then add an oblong on the lower left portion. Draw a small triangle. Draw a quadrilateral adjacent to the triangle. Attach a pentagon below the quadrilateral. Add a slanted vertical line on the lower left portion of the big circle and close this shape by adding a curved line. Outline the drawing to make out the details of the face mask. Add details to draw the shell of the helmet. Add more specific details and design to the helmet. Colour as desired. Draw a circle. Draw a rectangle for the protective plate. Draw a trapezoid with a horizontal line below it. Draw another larger trapezoid with two horizontal lines above it. Draw a series of vertical lines to outline the details of the helmet. Based on the outlines, draw the helmet. Add more details to the helmet such as stripes, logo, and interior details. Erase the unnecessary outlines. Color your football helmet! Draw a circle to outline the helmet. Draw an elongated oval intersecting with the circle drawn earlier. Draw the lower part of the protective plate by making an irregular polygon. Draw a curve with a triangle on the right edge to make the upper part of the protective plate. Draw a square on the upper front part of the helmet. Draw the helmet using the guidelines. Add more details to the helmet. Erase the unnecessary outlines. Color your football helmet!	Draw a big circle. Draw a curve line that will serve as the outline of the helmet. Draw a slanted "A" on the right side of the drawing. Draw a vertical line at the tip of the lower side of the "A" and connect that line with the upper line of the "A" using a curved line. Outline the drawing to complete the details of a face mask. Outline the shell of the helmet. Add designs as desired. Colour accordingly. Draw a big circle and then add an oblong on the lower left portion. Draw a small triangle. Attach a pentagon below the quadrilateral. Add a slanted vertical line on the lower left portion of the big circle and close this shape by adding a curved line. Outline the drawing to make out the details of the face mask. Add details to draw the shell of the helmet. Add more specific details and design to the helmet. Colour as desired. Draw a circle. Draw a rectangle for the protective plate. Draw a trapezoid with a horizontal line below it. Draw another larger trapezoid with two horizontal lines above it. Draw a series of vertical lines to outline the details of the helmet. Based on the outlines, draw the helmet. Add more details to the helmet such as stripes, logo, and interior details. Erase the unnecessary outlines. Color your football helmet! Draw a circle to outline the helmet. Draw an elongated oval intersecting with the circle drawn earlier. Draw the lower part of the protective plate by making an irregular polygon. Draw a curve with a triangle on the right edge to make the upper part of the protective plate. Draw a square on the upper front part of the helmet. Draw the helmet using the guidelines. Add more details to the helmet. Erase the unnecessary outlines. Color your football helmet!
https://www.wikihow.com/Read-Palm-Lines	How to Read Palm Lines	While there's no evidence that reading your palms can actually tell your future, it can still be a fun hobby to practice on your own or with your friends. To read your palm, you'll want to select your dominant hand, or the one you use the most. Look at the deep, large lines that cross your palm to get general information about your personality and well-being. For example, the curved line that runs from the base of your thumb down towards your wrist is your life line. A long, deep life line is thought to indicate that you are in good health and will have a positive, easy life. Other main lines include the heart line, head line, and fate line. If you're interested in more specific details, look at your secondary lines, such as the money line that descends vertically from the base of your pinky.	Choose your dominant, or active, hand to read palms. When you start your reading, check the hand you use most often since it's considered your active hand. Your non-dominant hand is your passive hand, and it is usually not examined since the lines may not be as prominent during the reading. Hold your hand out in front of you with your palm is face-up so you can easily read the lines. Compare your active and passive hands to see if there are any differences. The lines on your passive hand are your inherited traits while the lines on your active hand indicate how hard you've worked to develop yourself. Read the life line to determine your well-being and passion for life. The life line is the long curved line that runs from your wrist up around the base of your thumb. The life line might reveal experiences you've had and how they affect your outlook on life. The length of the line shows how others influence your life while the depth of the line displays the ease you'll have for life moving forward. If you have a short or shallow life line, it may mean that you may get sick or feel weak often. Deep and long life lines could signify that you're in good health and rarely get sick. Check if your life line has any other lines branching upward or downward. Upward branches toward your fingers mean positive changes are coming, and downward branches reveal negative events. The life line doesn't dictate when you'll die, so don't get worried if it is short. Look at the head line to find your learning style and desire for knowledge. Locate the headline directly above your life line extending horizontally across your palm. Longer head lines may represent that you think through situations methodically while shorter lines mean you're more impulsive. Check the depth of the line, since deeper lines can mean you have a great memory and shallow lines could show you struggle to focus. If your head line has breaks in it, then it could mean you will encounter mental strife or that you've had many breakthroughs or epiphanies about your life. Look to see if your head line is straight or wavy. Wavy lines may signify you approach problems creatively while straight lines mean you solve problems traditionally. If your head line connects to your life line, it may mean that you are introverted and thoughtful. The more the headline connects to the life line, the more worried and indecisive you may be. Interpret the heart line to find out your emotional stability. The heart line, also known as the love line, is located above the head line and runs horizontally across your palm. If the heart line starts underneath your index finger, it may mean you are content with your relationships. However, a heart line that starts under your middle finger may represent you may be restless in relationships. Deeper heart lines could show that your interpersonal relationships are significant to your life. The length of the heart line might indicate the length of your relationships, where breaks or forks can represent multiple relationships. If your heart line is curved, it may indicate that you're good at communicating to partners. Straight lines can mean you're stable and approachable, but you may be shy or passive in relationships. Check the fate line to see how your life may be influenced by external circumstances. Your fate line is a vertical line that you may have running down the center of your palm. The fate line can represent how other people or events out of your control will affect your life. If you have a deep fate line, you may have a strong ability to start a career or run a business. A shallow line means you work hard, but your career may change multiple times. Itchy hands may signal that changes might occur in your life soon. Look for the sun line to find out your possible legacy and fame. The sun line, also known as the Apollo line, is a vertical line that's usually located near the bottom of your palm underneath your ring finger. If you have a deep sun line, you may be very successful and possibly gain fame. A shallow line means you're still developing your skills and you'll work hard toward success. If the sun line is broken, you may gain success after overcoming past obstacles. Read the relationship line to learn how you handle commitment. The relationship line, also called the marriage line, is a small horizontal line that wraps around the side of your palm underneath your pinkie. Relationship lines that are long or deep might mean you prefer long-term commitments, while short or shallow lines mean you may experience multiple relationships or revisit old commitments. You may have multiple relationship lines on your palm, which may mean you are passionate in your romantic relationships. Interpret the intuition line to learn your ability to read other people. Your intuition line is a curved line that starts near the bottom of your pinkie and goes down toward your wrist. If your intuition line is pronounced, you may be able to pick up on how others are feeling quickly and sense if they're positive or negative. When you have breaks in your intuition line, it could mean you're empathetic for others, but you should focus on your own mood and emotions. You may not have an intuition line on your palm, but you can still be empathetic and sense others' feelings. Check the health line to see what you're like as a caretaker. The health line is a diagonal or curved line that starts from the edge of your palm by your pinkie and extends down to the center of your wrist. Having a long, deep health line can mean that you're a supportive individual and that you take care of others. Not everyone will have a health line, but it does not mean that you don't care for other people. Breaks in your health line may represent illnesses you or a loved one may have had in the past. Look for a money line if you want to check your future wealth. The money line is a short diagonal line that extends down from the base of your pinkie. Deep, straight money lines may mean you are smart with your investments and you may get wealth later on in life. Wavier, shallow lines might indicate that you may need to put more effort in to become wealthy. Examine the Girdle of Venus to determine your romantic insecurities. The Girdle of Venus is an arced line that goes around the base of your middle and ring finger. If you have a prominent Girdle of Venus on your palm, you may live life deeply and empathize easily with others. A lighter Girdle of Venus may mean you're more insecure with your relationships and can work toward them by building trust in other people. A Girdle of Venus may also represent past trauma that made you lose trust in other people, but you can keep working toward being trusting again. See if there's a Ring of Jupiter to check your leadership qualities. Look under the base of your index finger to see if you have a line wrapping around it, which is the Ring of Jupiter. If you have a prominent Ring of Jupiter, then you may be well-respected and exceed in leadership positions that you're given. If you have a shallow Ring of Jupiter, you might need to keep working toward building your skills to succeed. If you don't have a Ring of Jupiter, you can wear a ring on your finger to possibly increase your luck. Look for the Ring of Saturn to see if you get frustrated easily. The Ring of Saturn wraps around the base of your middle finger and may signify that you have a pessimistic attitude. You might get frustrated or feel like there are many obstacles you need to overcome in life. If you have a Ring of Saturn, try staying optimistic, communicating well, and having empathy for others since this could help the line disappear. Check for a Ring of Apollo to see how creative you are. The Ring of Apollo is a curved line that wraps around the base of your ring finger and may be very rare to have. If you have a Ring of Apollo, it may mean that you repress creativity and do things with a negative attitude. Working hard to have a positive attitude and embracing your creativity might help you remove the line from your palm. If you have a Ring of Apollo, try picking up artistic or creative hobbies, such as drawing, painting, or writing. Interpret your bracelet lines to find the balance between physical and mental self. Bracelet lines appear around your wrist and could determine how balanced you are physically, mentally, and spiritually. Solid, deep lines mean you are balanced and will live a prosperous life, while shallow lines may indicate an imbalance in your self. If you're reading the bracelet lines on a male, look at their left palm. If you're reading the lines on a female, then use the right hand.	Choose your dominant, or active, hand to read palms. Read the life line to determine your well-being and passion for life. Look at the head line to find your learning style and desire for knowledge. Interpret the heart line to find out your emotional stability. Check the fate line to see how your life may be influenced by external circumstances. Look for the sun line to find out your possible legacy and fame. Read the relationship line to learn how you handle commitment. Interpret the intuition line to learn your ability to read other people. Check the health line to see what you're like as a caretaker. Look for a money line if you want to check your future wealth. Examine the Girdle of Venus to determine your romantic insecurities. See if there's a Ring of Jupiter to check your leadership qualities. Look for the Ring of Saturn to see if you get frustrated easily. Check for a Ring of Apollo to see how creative you are. Interpret your bracelet lines to find the balance between physical and mental self.
https://www.wikihow.com/Get-Into-UCLA	How to Get Into UCLA	To get into UCLA, make sure to take all your standardized tests before December so you'll have the scores by the application deadline. Then, decide which college you want to apply to and note if there are any additional requirements for that school. For example, you'll need to fill out supplemental applications for the Music or Architecture Schools. Finally, create an account on the University of California's website to submit your application online.	Take the most rigorous course available to you. UCLA is an academically rigorous school, so admissions counselors will be looking for evidence you can live up to that expectation. You can take AP or IB classes or honors courses to further demonstrate your ability to keep up at UCLA. UCLA takes into consideration the types of courses available to you, so if your school doesn't offer AP or IB classes, don't worry! That doesn't necessarily mean you don't have a chance at getting in to UCLA. Do as well in your courses as you can. Just taking hard classes isn't enough. Do as well as you possibly can. If you find yourself falling behind, ask your teacher for help or see a tutor. Good grades are important to admissions. Participate in extracurricular activities. UCLA admissions counselors also look for evidence of a wide variety of interests. Pick extracurricular activities that you're passionate about and that you can make a commitment to. UCLA won't rate one type of extracurricular activity higher than another, but they will notice if you don't stick with the same activities for long. If you find that you can't handle your courses and the extracurricular activities you've signed up for, UCLA recommends focusing on your academics. Having a part-time job after school counts toward extracurricular activities. Take on leadership opportunities when possible. Since many UCLA graduates go on to be leaders in their fields, UCLA admissions counselors want to see that you already have leadership qualities. You might be captain of a sports team, hold class office, or be a supervisor at work. Don’t skate through your last year. Once you get to your last year of school, you might think you're set. But because UCLA is such a rigorous school, admissions counselors want to see evidence of commitment. That means continuing to work hard in class and getting the highest grades you can. Sign up for UCLA’s prospective student email list. This mailing list will send you up-to-date information about admissions. It's also a good way to track how you're doing in high school as you get closer to applying. You can sign up at: https://connect.admission.ucla.edu/register/getconnected. Take the SAT, or ACT plus ACT Writing test. You only need to take 1 standardized test – the SAT or the ACT. However, because the ACT doesn't have a writing component, you'll need to take the ACT Writing test as well. There are now 2 forms of the SAT. If you apply to UCLA after 2021, you'll need to take the new version of the exam. Before then, either version is accepted. Take subject tests if you’re applying to the School of Engineering. UCLA's school of engineering likes its prospective students to take the Math Level 2 SAT subject test. They also recommend you take a physics subject test as well. Schedule your exams before December. Freshman applications are only available for admission for the fall semester. In order to take the exam and get your scores in time for the application deadline, you'll need to take your exams by December at the very latest. Take them even earlier if possible. Take the exams more than once if possible. Don't wait until your senior year to take the SAT or ACT. If you can take them in your junior and senior year, you'll have more of an opportunity to improve your score. UCLA will only consider the highest score you earn, so you don't need to worry about a low score pulling down your average. Consider taking a preparation course. The standardized tests are an important part of your application to UCLA. If you're nervous about the exams, or just want to do as well as possible, consider taking a prep course. The Princeton Review offers prep courses. They also publish a series of prep books so you can prepare at home. The Princeton Review offers in-person and online courses. The courses can run between $900 and $1100 and last anywhere from a few weeks to a few months. Your high school might also offer prep courses. Check with your school counselor. Some local community colleges might offer exam prep as well. You can check with local schools to see if they do and whether there's a fee. Have your scores sent to UCLA. When you register for the SAT or ACT, you can choose where you'd like the scores to be sent. UCLA will not consider your application without these scores, so make sure you list UCLA as one of the destination schools. Check out the webpages for each college within UCLA. All UCLA's schools – with the exception of the College of Letters and Science – admit by major. That means individual departments make the decisions about admitting you. Take a look at each college's webpage and note which majors sound interesting. The College of Letters and Science's list of majors can be found at: http://www.college.ucla.edu/academics/departments-and-programs/ The School of Arts and Architecture's list of majors can be found at: https://www.admission.ucla.edu/Prospect/Majors/aamajor.htm The list of majors for the Henry Samueli School of Engineering and Applied Science can be found at: https://www.admission.ucla.edu/Prospect/Majors/enmajor.htm The list of majors for the Herb Alpert School of Music can be found at: https://www.admission.ucla.edu/Prospect/Majors/mumajor.htm The details for the Bachelor of Science in Nursing degree can be found at: https://www.nursing.ucla.edu/academics/degree-programs/bachelor-science The majors at the School of Theater, Film, and Television can be found at: https://www.admission.ucla.edu/Prospect/Majors/tfmajor.htm Consider which majors match your interests best. Explore each school and see what majors they offer and where you might thrive. The better your high school course work and extracurricular activities match up with your declared major, the better. Note which majors require supplemental applications, including auditions. All of the schools except for the College of Letters and Sciences require supplemental materials. For the nursing school, this means an additional page or two of paperwork. For the School of Theater, Art, and Television, the supplemental application is more involved. Take a look at each school and see what they require. The supplemental worksheets for the Schools of the Arts and Architecture can be found at http://www.arts.ucla.edu/resource/prospective-students/undergraduate-admission/. They are divided by major, so you'll need to know your major before you print the application. Links to the supplemental applications and audition information for the Alpert School of Music are available at https://www.schoolofmusic.ucla.edu/undergraduate-admission. Each major has different supplemental applications and audition dates. The supplemental application for the School of Theater, Art, and Television can be found at: https://app.getacceptd.com/uclafilmtv. The supplemental application for the School of Nursing can be found at: https://apply.nursing.ucla.edu. Anyone applying to the Samueli School of Engineering and Applied Science should consider taking the SAT Math Level 2 Subject Exam. Write down your standardized test scores. You should have your scores sent directly to the school. However, the online application will ask you to list your scores, which admissions counselors will later match up with the official paperwork they receive. Gather any additional test scores. If you've taken any additional exams - including SAT Subjects, AP, IB, TOEFL, or IELTS exams – have those scores in front of you, too. You'll need to list them on your application, and the school may ask you to send official copies. Keep a copy of your transcript in front of you. You don't need to submit an official transcript to UCLA unless you're accepted. However, you will need to refer to your transcript in your applications, so make sure you have it with you. Estimate your annual income. If you're applying for an application fee waiver or the Educational Opportunity Program, you'll need to include your estimated annual income in your application. You should estimate your annual income if you're independent (not living at home). If you live with your parents, it should be their annual income you estimate. Have your Social Security Number handy. If you have a Social Security number, make sure you know it or have the number written down somewhere. UCLA will use your Social Security number to match up admissions paperwork that comes from other sources, like exam scores. If you don't have a Social Security number, that's okay. UCLA can still track your application in other ways. Prepare a portfolio if you’re applying to the School of Art and Architecture. The supplemental application for the School of Art and Architecture requires a portfolio. You can check the school's website for more details. Prepare for an audition if you’re applying to the Schools of Music or Theater, Film, and Television. The School of Music and the School of Theater, Film, and Television both require audition tapes as part of their supplemental application. That application will give you specifics about what to submit. Review the personal insight questions. The personal insight questions on the UCLA application take the place of a general admissions essay. You'll have to choose 4 of 8 possible questions to answer. You can see the questions ahead of time and decide which you want to answer. They're available at: http://admission.universityofcalifornia.edu/how-to-apply/personal-questions/freshman/index.html. Look at these questions early. The more time you have to prepare and revise your answers, the better they might end up. Create an account on the University of California’s website. The applications are available at different times depending on which semester you're applying for and what level you're at. Freshmen applications are usually available in August the year before you expect to be admitted. The website where you sign up is: https://admissions.universityofcalifornia.edu/applicant/login.htm. Choose the UCLA campus. Because UCLA is part of the University of California system, everyone applying to a UC school uses the same application. But you'll be able to choose which campus or campuses you want to apply for. The online application will automatically prompt you for this choice – make sure you choose UCLA! Pay the application fee. Once you're ready to submit everything, you'll need to pay an application fee. If you're only applying to UCLA, the fee is $70 for U.S. applicants and $80 for international applicants. The fees go up if you apply to more than 1 campus. You can pay by credit card or by mailing a check to UC Application Center, P.O. Box 1432, Bakersfield, CA 93302. Answer 4 personal insight questions. The online application will automatically prompt you to choose and answer 4 questions. If you've had a chance to review the questions and write up answers, submit those answers when prompted. You'll have 8 questions to choose from, and you'll need to answer 4. Each answer is limited to 350 words.	Take the most rigorous course available to you. Do as well in your courses as you can. Participate in extracurricular activities. Take on leadership opportunities when possible. Don’t skate through your last year. Sign up for UCLA’s prospective student email list. Take the SAT, or ACT plus ACT Writing test. Take subject tests if you’re applying to the School of Engineering. Schedule your exams before December. Take the exams more than once if possible. Consider taking a preparation course. Have your scores sent to UCLA. Check out the webpages for each college within UCLA. Consider which majors match your interests best. Note which majors require supplemental applications, including auditions. Write down your standardized test scores. Gather any additional test scores. Keep a copy of your transcript in front of you. Estimate your annual income. Have your Social Security Number handy. Prepare a portfolio if you’re applying to the School of Art and Architecture. Prepare for an audition if you’re applying to the Schools of Music or Theater, Film, and Television. Review the personal insight questions. Create an account on the University of California’s website. Choose the UCLA campus. Pay the application fee. Answer 4 personal insight questions.
https://www.wikihow.com/Make-a-Wig-Look-Real	How to Make a Wig Look Real	To make a synthetic wig look real, spray dry shampoo over the hair, which will make the strands look more matte. You can also spray a mix of equal parts liquid fabric softener and cold water onto the hair to make it look bouncier while maintaining its shape. Once you've put the wig on your head, look in a mirror and use a pair of tweezers to pluck a few random hairs from the center part and hairline so it doesn't look too symmetrical. You can also make it look more realistic by styling the wig into a braid, pony tail, or bun, like you'd do your hair normally.	Spray a dry shampoo over the hair to make synthetic strands more matte. Synthetic wigs are often made of plastic, which can have an unnatural shine. Put the wig on loosely and spray the dry shampoo all over like you would your natural hair. Avoid brushing or combing the wig to keep the tousled, matte look. It may be helpful to hold the wig upside-down and spray it with the dry shampoo before putting it on. Apply a mixture of fabric softener and water to condition the hair. Mix equal parts liquid fabric softener and cold water in a spray bottle, and shake the bottle thoroughly. Then, spray the mixture onto the wig and let it air dry for 20-30 minutes. You can also wrap the wig loosely in a towel to make it dry more quickly. This will help make the strands look bouncy and maintain their shape. Pluck a few hairs from the center part and hairline to make it look more natural. Place the wig on your head without securing it, and use a pair of tweezers to remove a few random hairs from the center part and the hairline. Pick out 10-15 hairs along your forehead in various spots, and pull 20-25 hairs from along the center part. Since many wigs are made by a machine, this section can end up looking too “perfect,” leaving you with fake-looking hair. Remember not to go overboard with the tweezing. Avoid removing too many hairs from a particular spot, since that can make the wig look bare. Remove kinks in the hair by steaming the wig on low. If you want to style the wig, use a handheld steamer on a low setting, and comb or brush the hair as you run the steamer over the fibers. For curls, put the hair in curlers and then run the steamer over each curler for 5-10 seconds to set the hair. Make sure the wig is completely dry before you remove the curlers and put on the wig. Style the wig into a ponytail or braid with accessories for a realistic look. Put the wig on your head and secure it in place, and then pull it into a low ponytail or braid. Look in the mirror to make sure you can't see any parts of the wig cap, and then use accessories, like a headband, to cover any imperfections or kinks in the hair. If the hairline on the wig looks unnatural, try tying a scarf around the wig hairline to cover the area. Color the hair to match your personal style. Ask a hairstylist to color your wig for you if it's made of real human hair. Start with a lighter hair color, like blonde or light brown, and add dimension with dark shades around the hairline and part. If you have a dark colored human hair wig, your hairstylist may be able to add highlights for dimension around your face. Style a human hair wig with volumizing spray to prevent flatness. Before styling a real hair wig, spritz volumizing spray at the roots of the hair, and work the product through the hair with your fingers. Then, style the wig as desired and finish with a setting hairspray to keep the wig in place throughout the day. Opt for a cut that is similar to your natural hair and compliments your face. Take the wig to a stylist who is experienced with cutting wigs. Try on the wig in front of them, and bring pictures of hairstyles that you like to give the stylist an idea of the look you want. Sticking with a style that you know looks good on you will help to make the wig look like your real hair. Keep in mind that, unlike real hair, your wig hair won't grow back after a cut. Make sure to visit an experienced stylist! Use hot tools to change the wig's texture. Put the wig on your head and separate the hair into sections with clips. Curl, straighten, or blow dry the hair into whatever style you'd like, just like you would with natural hair. Spray the hair with hairspray to set the style before wearing the wig out. If you're planning to style the hair with hot tools frequently, be sure to use a heat protecting spray to avoid frying or breaking the strands. Measure your head accurately to purchase the right wig size. Measure the circumference of your head around your hairline, along your center part from your forehead to the nape of your neck, and across the top of your head between your ears. Use these measurements to order the wig, or have a professional take your measurements for you to make sure they're as precise as possible. This will ensure that the wig fits snugly along your hairline, but doesn't squeeze or press on your skin. Wear a wig cap to conceal your hair. Style your natural hair in a protective style, such as braids or pin curls, or slick your hair back with gel. Then, place a wig cap over your head. Choose one that's a close match to your skin color to make it look like your scalp. This will prevent any stray hairs from popping through the wig liner. Use wig tape to secure the wig in place for short-term wear. If you're going to be wearing the wig for less than 4 hours, apply small pieces of wig tape around your hairline and behind your ears. This will hold the wig in place so it doesn't shift or fall off while you're wearing it. Opt for shorter pieces rather than long ones, since longer strips can sometimes peel at the ends. You can find wig tape at most cosmetic supply stores, or you can order it online. Apply wig glue along your hairline to position the wig for long-term wear. If you plan to wear your wig for longer than 4 hours, it's best to use wig glue to hold it in place. Dab the glue along your hairline as you're positioning the wig. Then, press down on the hairline to ensure that the glue bonds the wig to your scalp. Wig glue is a gentle adhesive that's safe for use on your skin. When you want to remove it, simply use a cotton swab to dab rubbing alcohol along the hairline and pull the wig away from your head slowly. You can purchase wig glue at most cosmetic supply stores, or you can order it online. Align the wig as close as possible to your hairline for a natural look. When you're securing the wig in place, try to line it up with your natural hairline. Look in the mirror while you're positioning your wig and check to make sure it's not too high or low before you secure it. This will keep the wig looking natural and prevent your forehead from looking too small or large. If you have a receding hairline, you might opt for a wig that has bangs to cover up the area where your natural hairline would be.	Spray a dry shampoo over the hair to make synthetic strands more matte. Apply a mixture of fabric softener and water to condition the hair. Pluck a few hairs from the center part and hairline to make it look more natural. Remove kinks in the hair by steaming the wig on low. Style the wig into a ponytail or braid with accessories for a realistic look. Color the hair to match your personal style. Style a human hair wig with volumizing spray to prevent flatness. Opt for a cut that is similar to your natural hair and compliments your face. Use hot tools to change the wig's texture. Measure your head accurately to purchase the right wig size. Wear a wig cap to conceal your hair. Use wig tape to secure the wig in place for short-term wear. Apply wig glue along your hairline to position the wig for long-term wear. Align the wig as close as possible to your hairline for a natural look.
https://www.wikihow.com/Boil-Chicken	How to Boil Chicken	To boil chicken, first place boneless, skinless chicken breasts in a large pot and fill the pot with enough water to cover them. Season the water with salt and pepper to give the chicken more flavor. Add carrots, onions, and fresh herbs for even more flavor if you'd like. Then, bring the water to a boil. Cover the pot and reduce to a rapid simmer for 10 minutes, or until the chicken has an internal temperature of 165°F (75°C). Remove the chicken breasts from the pot and let them cool for 10 minutes. Finally, use 2 forks to shred the chicken, or cut it into thin slices with a knife. To boil a whole chicken, follow the same steps, but let the chicken simmer for 1 1/2 to 2 hours so it cooks all the way through.	Place your choice of chicken into a large pot. If you'd like to boil a whole chicken, put it into a large stockpot that's at least 8 US quarts (7.6 L) in size. To boil pieces of chicken, put as many as you'd like to cook into a big pot so the pot is about 3/4 full. If you're making chicken for several people, plan on serving a couple of pieces for each person. For example, plan on boiling 1 thigh and 1 drumstick for each person you want to serve. 1 whole chicken will generally serve 4 to 6 people. You can use boneless skinless chicken breasts or thighs to save time or boil bone-in chicken with the skin on for more flavor. Pour in enough cold water or stock to cover the chicken. The amount of liquid you need will depend on how much chicken you're boiling and the size of your pot. Although you can use water to boil the chicken, using vegetable or chicken stock will give your chicken a lot of flavor. Boiling in apple juice or apple cider is another great way to add subtle flavor to the chicken. Put a handful of fresh herbs into the pot. Think about how you're going to be serving and seasoning your final dish. Then, rinse a few sprigs of fresh herbs that will complement the meal and add them directly to the pot without chopping them. You can add a handful of parsley, oregano, thyme, or bay, for every 3 or 4 pounds (1.4 or 1.8 kg) of chicken. For example, if you're using the boiled chicken to make a cold chicken salad, add fresh tarragon to the pot. Use a combination of herbs to give the chicken a greater depth of flavor. Add a variety of vegetables to create a rich flavor. You can put in 2 or 3 vegetables for every 3 or 4 pounds (1.4 or 1.8 kg) of chicken. If you're using aromatic vegetables with a peel, chop them into wedges and add them to the pot along with other aromatic vegetables. Try using: Garlic Onions Celery Customize the flavor of the chicken by adding spices. You should season the liquid with plenty of salt to help the chicken become tender. If you're only boiling a few pieces of chicken, try using about 1 teaspoon (5 g) of salt. For a large stockpot full of liquid, use around 1 tablespoon (15 g) of salt. Play around with adding any of these unique spices for 3 to 4 pounds (1.4 to 1.8 kg) of chicken: 1 to 2 dried chilies 1 teaspoon (3 g) of whole peppercorns A 1 inch (2.5 cm) piece of fresh ginger 1 teaspoon (2 g) of cumin 1 teaspoon (2 g) of paprika Boil a whole chicken for 80 to 90 minutes. Put the lid on the pot and turn the burner to high. When the liquid starts to boil and steam escapes from under the lid, remove the lid and turn the burner down to medium-high so the liquid boils gently. Cook the whole chicken until it reaches 165 °F (74 °C) with an instant-read meat thermometer. Insert the thermometer into the thickest part of a thigh in order to get an accurate reading. Ensure that you don't touch the thermometer to a bone or the reading might be off. Cook the chicken breasts for 15 to 30 minutes. Turn the burner to high and place the lid on the pot. When steam escapes from under the lid, carefully remove it and turn the burner down to medium-high. Then, boil boneless skinless chicken breasts for 15 to 20 minutes. If you're using bone-in breasts with the skin on, boil them for around 30 minutes. The breasts are finished once they reach 165 °F (74 °C) with an instant-read meat thermometer. Boil chicken legs for 30 to 40 minutes. Put the lid on the pot and heat the liquid over high heat until it begins to boil. Then, remove the lid and reduce the burner to medium-high so the liquid bubbles gently. Since drumsticks contain bones and lots of muscle, you'll need to boil them for 30 to 40 minutes. You can insert a meat thermometer into the thickest part of the chicken leg to see if the temperature has reached 165 °F (74 °C). Don't accidentally touch the thermometer to the bone or the reading will be inaccurate. Cook chicken thighs in the boiling liquid for 30 to 45 minutes. Bring the liquid to a boil over high heat with the lid on the pot. Then, take off the lid and turn the burner down to medium-high. If you're using thighs with bones, boil them for up to 45 minutes or boil boneless thighs for about 30 minutes. The meat should either begin to fall away from the bone or it should reach 165 °F (74 °C) with an instant-read meat thermometer. Remove the boiled chicken and serve it while it's hot. Use tongs or a slotted spoon to carefully lift the chicken out of the hot liquid. If you're trying to remove a whole boiled chicken, try lifting the bottom with a flat spatula and inserting a meat fork into the center of the chicken. Transfer the whole chicken or pieces to a serving platter or cutting board and enjoy the hot boiled chicken. If you boiled the chicken with herbs or vegetables, discard them since they're probably too mushy to serve. Use forks if you'd like to shred the chicken. Shredded chicken is great for tacos, casseroles, or pasta. Take 2 forks and pull against the boiled chicken in opposite directions to shred the meat. If you'd like to shred a lot of boneless chicken, put the meat into the bowl of a stand mixer. Use the beater attachment and turn on the machine to low. The beaters will gently pull the meat apart. Chop or slice the chicken to make even pieces. If you're serving chicken fajitas or want to cover the chicken in a rich sauce, use a sharp knife to carefully cut the pieces. You can make thin slices of chicken or chunk the meat into cubes. If you're working with bone-in chicken, start but cutting the meat off of the bone. Store the boiled chicken in the refrigerator for up to 3 to 4 days. Place the whole boiled chicken or chicken pieces into an airtight container. Refrigerate the chicken until you're ready to reheat it or use it cold. For example, you could make chicken salad with leftover shredded chicken. You can reheat the chicken in the microwave or add it to a casserole that you're going to bake.	Place your choice of chicken into a large pot. Pour in enough cold water or stock to cover the chicken. Put a handful of fresh herbs into the pot. Add a variety of vegetables to create a rich flavor. Customize the flavor of the chicken by adding spices. Boil a whole chicken for 80 to 90 minutes. Cook the chicken breasts for 15 to 30 minutes. Boil chicken legs for 30 to 40 minutes. Cook chicken thighs in the boiling liquid for 30 to 45 minutes. Remove the boiled chicken and serve it while it's hot. Use forks if you'd like to shred the chicken. Chop or slice the chicken to make even pieces. Store the boiled chicken in the refrigerator for up to 3 to 4 days.
https://www.wikihow.com/Count-Money	How to Count Money	To count money, start by sorting out your coins by size and value. Put all of your quarters together, all of your dimes together, and so on. Once they are organized, count how many coins there are of each kind and then calculate the value of each stack using multiplication. For example, if you have 17 dimes that are worth $.10 each, that equals $1.70. After you've added each stack, add them all together using a calculator or sheet of paper. Then, separate and add together your bills to get your total.	Gather together all your coins. The first thing to do is get together all your loose coins. Empty out your pockets, purse, wallet or anywhere else you keep coins. Spread them out on a flat surface so all the coins are visible are none of them are overlapping each other. You want to be able to distinguish each coin easily. Organize by size and value. Next, you can split the coins up into groups determined by their value. For example, scoop together all the nickels in one place, all the dimes in another, and so on. Do this until you have little piles of each coin. Then stack up the coins from each pile into a column. Once you've done this you should have a collection of little stacks of coins on the table. The size and color of the coins makes this easy to do very quickly. You could do this in descending order from a high value to low by first stacking all your dollar coins together in one pile, followed by your quarters, dimes, nickels and, finally, pennies. Calculate the value of each stack. Now work your way through the stacks calculating the value of each one and noting it down. For example, if you have a stack of ten 1 cent coins note down that that stack's value is 10 cents. Five 50 cents coins? Write down $2.50. Complete this calculation for each stack. You could also write it down on a tally chart. With headings for each coin denomination, you can tick for each coin you have of that value and then add up the totals. If you have a lot of stacks you will need to clearly identify which ones you have already counted. You can do this just by moving them to one side when they are counted. For example, keep uncounted stacks on your right-hand side and slide them over to your left when they are counted. Add it all together. Once you know the value of each stack you just need to add them all together to get the total. You can add that up as you go and keep a running total to make it quicker. If you think you might forget, writing the value of each stack means you can go back and add it all up together at the end. Consider using a coin sorting machine. If you have a lot of coins or regularly need to process a lot of change for your job, it might be a good idea to get hold of a coin sorting machine. These are devices which sort your coins for you by denomination. Some of the more advanced machines will also count them and tell you the total value. You may find coin counting machines in your bank or store which you can use. But be aware that there will typically be a charge for this service. The most common coin-counting machines in the US generally cost a fee of around 10% of the total value of the change you process. Organize your bills. Once you have counted up all your coins, you can move on to your bills or notes. You will basically follow the same method as with the coins, namely splitting the bills into piles of the same denomination and then calculating the value of each pile. The first step is to spread out your bills on the table so you can clearly see each one. Then separate them out into groups. For example, you could have a pile of $5 bills, one of $20 bills, and so on. Depending on how much cash you have this could be a fairly speedy process and take a little longer. If you have a lot of cash to count, begin with your largest bills. Stack your $100, $50 and $20 bills in their own piles. Then move on to the $10, $5 and $1 bills. Count and record your bills. Now you have organized your bills into separate piles, all you have to do is go through and calculate the value of each pile. If you have five $20 bills, that's $100. Just like the coins you can go through each pile and note down the value on a sheet of paper and add them all together at the end. If you are more confident in your maths and memory skills, you can calculate the total as you go only writing down the final amount when you get to the end. Another way to do it is create a table with headings for each bill denomination in which you keep a tally, and then add up the totals. For example, if you have two $50 bills, three $20 bills, four $10 bills, two $5 bills and 6 single dollar bills, your "totals" column should read, "100, 60, 40, 10, 6." You should add all these bill totals together and hopefully come to a total of $216. Combine your bill and coin totals. The final step is to combine the two totals you have for coins and bills respectively. This will give you the total amount of money you are counting. Write the total down and use your records to keep track of your personal finances, and budgets. If you are going to deposit the money you can place it into special bank deposit bags. You can write the value of the contents on the outside of the bag. For bills, consider paper clipping them to a deposit slip if you plan on depositing the money	Gather together all your coins. Organize by size and value. Calculate the value of each stack. Add it all together. Consider using a coin sorting machine. Organize your bills. Count and record your bills. Combine your bill and coin totals.
https://www.wikihow.com/Understand-Personality-Disorders	How to Understand Personality Disorders	To understand personality disorders, start by learning about how personality disorders are caused. Unlike many mental illnesses, personality disorders develop during childhood and can last a lifetime. Once you have read about the causes, learn the 4 defining features of personality disorders, including distorted thinking patterns and difficulties with impulse control. Then, read about the 3 different clusters of personality disorders, Clusters A, B, and C, to learn about each individual disorder.	Understand how a personality disorder develops. Personality disorders often originate in childhood or adolescence. They involve long-term behaviour patterns and attitudes that significantly differ when compared to what is expected. Beginning in adolescence and continuing into adulthood, the person will have difficulty with personal relationships, co-workers and bosses, coping with stressful situations, and adjusting to change. Learn the role that genetics play. Research has discovered that there are traits passed down genetically that can be linked to symptoms of anxiety, aggression and fear. Grasp the negative effects of verbal abuse. A study involving 793 mothers and their children saw that children subjected to verbal abuse were three times more likely to have a personality disorder than those who were not. The disorders included narcissistic, paranoid and obsessive-compulsive personality disorder. It is worth noting that the influence of strong relationships with friends, a teacher or a family member can help to mitigate some of the damaging effects of childhood abuse. Accept the part that childhood trauma plays. A major study performed jointly at a number of US universities, called the Collaborative Longitudinal Personality Disorders Study, examined the role childhood trauma plays in the development of a personality disorder. One study showed a link between the type and frequency of trauma to a specific personality disorder. One such example is that children who had experienced sexual abuse were more likely to develop borderline personality disorder. Appreciate that hypersensitivity may be a sign. Children who are overly sensitive to such stimuli as noise, light, and touch can become withdrawn, nervous or fearful. While approximately 20 percent of infants are considered highly reactive, personality disorders occur in less than 10 percent of these cases. This makes the role of hypersensitivity in these situations far from straightforward. Understand the defining features of personality disorders. The four core features both define and are prevalent in each of the ten personality disorders. Prior to diagnosis, a person must demonstrate noteworthy and prolonged instances of a behaviour disorder in at least two of the four of these features: Distorted thinking patterns Difficulty with impulse control Interpersonal difficulties Questionable emotional responses Appreciate how a diagnosis is achieved. A person is usually referred to a specialist in mental health or personality disorders. The person and/or a family member may fill out diagnostic forms to see whether a particular diagnosis might fit. The specialist also interviews the person and/or family members. After lots of discussion, a diagnosis is given. Understand that personality disorders are considered mental illnesses. They are included in the DSM, which is the diagnostic and statistical manual of mental disorders, published by the American Psychiatric Association and is the manual doctors use to diagnose people with mental disorders. Realize that being diagnosed with more than one personality disorder is common. While a patient may present with significant symptoms of one particular disorder, it is not uncommon for a secondary or multiple disorders within the same ''cluster'' to occur. Some people with personality disorders have co-occurring mental illnesses, such as anxiety or depression. Understand how personality disorders are classified. There are three categories, known as ''clusters'', that divide the 10 specific types of personality disorders. These categories are based on the symptoms and shared characteristics of each disorder. Cluster A consists of behavior that is considered odd, paranoid, or eccentric. Cluster B disorders include emotional, unpredictable, or dramatic behavioral disorders. Cluster C is comprised of disorders causing anxiety or fear. Recognize ‘’Cluster A’’ Personality Disorders. Paranoid personality disorder involves difficulty with trusting and confiding in others. The person will hold an unreasonable fear of being taken advantage of. They may perceive threats and danger in many everyday situations where there is none. A person with this disorder fears being betrayed and is often seen as hostile. Schizoid personality disorder involves preferring a solitary existence and showing little emotion. There will be very little interest in seeking close personal relationships and a tendency to be indifferent to any sort of outside criticism or praise. Schizotypal personality disorder can cause someone to act eccentric, with distorted thinking patterns and perceptions. They display extreme discomfort in close relationships and may exhibit a belief that they can read minds or have a sixth sense. Recognize ‘’Cluster B’’ Personality Disorders: Antisocial personality disorder can lead people to place themselves or others in risky, even dangerous situations, without appreciating the consequences of their actions. This person may repeatedly lie, deceive or act impulsively, with little regard for conforming to normal social expectations. Antisocial personality disorder is typically not diagnosed unless the patient is at least 18 years of age. Borderline personality disorder involves very intense feelings and impulsive behavior. People with this disorder often have intense mood swings from bliss to panic to fury. They have a deep fear of abandonment and often have problems with identity. Feelings of chronic sadness and loneliness, along with the inability to make or keep stable relationships, are all a part of this very serious condition. Under extreme stress, feelings of paranoia, numbness and difficulty with memory can occur. Also, brief psychosis (seeing or hearing things that aren't there) can occur. These individuals are at high risk for self-harm and suicide. Histrionic personality disorder is a condition where one craves attention and shows excessive emotion. When they are not the center of attention, a person with this disorder will take necessary measures to draw attention to themselves. They feel the need to entertain those around them. At the same time, this person is easily influenced and dependent on the opinion and approval of others. Narcissistic personality disorder involves an inflated ego. These individuals believe they are better than others, have fragile self-esteem and a noticeable lack of empathy. They will expect to get their own way and will be quite upset if ignored or slighted. They often resent the success of others, causing them to be viewed as selfish and demanding. People with this disorder are not above taking advantage of people or situations. Recognize ‘’Cluster C’’ Personality Disorders. Avoidant personality disorder can look similar to social anxiety. This person expects the worst, worrying about disappointing others or embarrassing themselves. They isolate themselves from employment or activities where they must be around others. They avoid personal and social relationships for fear of rejection or ridicule and tend to live very lonely lives. Dependent personality disorder describes people who handle their fearfulness by relying on others to do things for them. People with dependent personality disorder like to be cared for, behave submissively and appear quite clingy. Making daily life decisions and being alone cause such people to feel very uncomfortable and helpless because of their fear of being unable to care for themselves. Obsessive-compulsive personality disorder involves the need for everything to be orderly and controlled. While this person expects a catastrophe to occur if things are not perfect, they set unreasonably high goals and standards for themselves and others. They are quite frugal and worry endlessly about making mistakes, consequently their leisure activities and friendships tend to suffer as a result. Obsessive-compulsive personality disorder is "not" the same as obsessive compulsive disorder. Do not confuse the two. People with obsessive-compulsive personality disorder think these behaviors are perfectly fine and strengthen their sense of control, however, those with obsessive-compulsive disorder don't want to engage in their behaviors and see them as harmful, but feel they have no choice in the matter. Seek and form a support system. Never forget that it is possible to lead a full and happy life with your personality disorder. Having the support of family, loved ones, and close friends is sometimes all a person needs. Others may find it important to create routine and a systematic schedule to feel comfortable and in control. Get involved with outside resources. Such resources include self-help groups and group therapy sessions. For some people who have a personality disorder, being with others who are experiencing similar issues can help them to feel free to be open and honest. Explore the importance of your medical team. There are a variety of therapies that have shown success in dealing with personality disorders. One such therapy is Cognitive Therapy, and forms of this therapy, which work to change negative or detrimental thinking patterns. Dialectical Behavior Therapy (DBT) was specifically developed to treat those with borderline personality disorder. It has four parts: mindfulness, emotion regulation, distress tolerance, and interpersonal effectiveness. This type of therapy includes one-on-one therapy as well as group therapy. Transference Focused Therapy involves exploring and changing unconscious thought processes with a therapist. Mentalization is performed individually or as a part of group therapy. It explores how a patient thinks, as well as thought patterns of others. Do research mindfully. Reading about your personality disorder may give you useful information, but it could also result in you seeing many stigmatizing, awful things that people might say about it. Be cautious about your research, and avoid negative sources of information. Accept that medication may be a part of therapy. Although there are no medications specifically approved for personality disorders, some symptoms can be controlled or alleviated by medication. For example, symptoms of depression may respond to antidepressants and mood swings may respond to a mood stabilizer. Depending on your disorder, the right medication may allow you to live more normally without your disorder getting in the way as much. If the medication has bad side effects, tell your doctor. They may be able to switch you to something else. If you take medication and start to feel better, don't stop taking it. This means that the medication is working, not that you are "getting over it." Talk to a doctor first. Some medications need to be tapered off gradually, so never decide to stop your meds on your own. Try connecting with other people who have the same disorder as you. A support group, or group therapy, may be able to help you connect with people who face similar struggles. You can offer empathy, advice, and ideas to one another. It can be very helpful to get and give advice to and simply spend time with people who know what you are going through.	Understand how a personality disorder develops. Learn the role that genetics play. Grasp the negative effects of verbal abuse. Accept the part that childhood trauma plays. Appreciate that hypersensitivity may be a sign. Understand the defining features of personality disorders. Appreciate how a diagnosis is achieved. Understand that personality disorders are considered mental illnesses. Realize that being diagnosed with more than one personality disorder is common. Understand how personality disorders are classified. Recognize ‘’Cluster A’’ Personality Disorders. Recognize ‘’Cluster B’’ Personality Disorders: Recognize ‘’Cluster C’’ Personality Disorders. Seek and form a support system. Get involved with outside resources. Explore the importance of your medical team. Do research mindfully. Accept that medication may be a part of therapy. Try connecting with other people who have the same disorder as you.
https://www.wikihow.com/Clean-Vinyl-Furniture	How to Clean Vinyl Furniture	To clean vinyl furniture, start by mixing a few drops of dish soap with warm water. Then, use a soft bristle brush to scrub any dirt and debris from the furniture. Next, remove any stains by dabbing them with a solution of bleach diluted with water. After that, use a rag or towel dipped in clean water to rinse off the bleach and soap. Finally, pat your furniture completely dry with a clean towel.	Mix warm water and soap. Use a mild soap to clean vinyl furniture. Harsh chemical cleaners are not necessary for a routine cleaning where you're not trying to remove set in stains. In a bucket or bowl, mix a small amount of mild soap with warm water. A mild dish soap is a good option for vinyl furniture. The precise amount of soap and water you need depends on how much vinyl you're cleaning. Larger pieces of vinyl furniture will need more soap and water than smaller furniture. Scrub down your vinyl furniture with a soft bristle brush. Opt for a soft, plastic bristle brush. Use this to scrub down the vinyl furniture on all sides. You can use a decent amount of pressure, as vinyl furniture is fairly strong. Scrub as hard as necessary to remove dirt, debris, and any discoloration. Rinse your vinyl furniture with clean water. For outdoor vinyl furniture, it's easiest to use a hose to rinse any soap residue from furniture after cleaning it. For indoor furniture, use a rag or towel dipped in clean water. Make sure to hose or wipe down the furniture until water runs clear. Leaving soap residue on your vinyl furniture can cause damage. Dry your vinyl furniture. Vinyl furniture should not be left to air dry. After cleaning and rinsing your furniture, pat it dry with a clean towel. Make sure to remove all moisture from your furniture after cleaning it. Use bleach and water on mild stains. If you notice any mild stains on your vinyl furniture during a routine cleaning, a small amount of bleach diluted with water can be used to remove them. Make a mixture of about six percent bleach in water. Dab this onto the vinyl furniture and then rinse it completely with water. Make sure to wear gloves when handling bleach. Never put pure bleach onto vinyl furniture. This can cause damage. Remove mildew with ammonium and hydrogen peroxide. To treat built up mildew, mix one tablespoon of ammonium, peroxide, and three fourths a cup of water together. Scrub this into the vinyl furniture until the mildew lifts. Then, rinse the vinyl furniture using a hose or towel. After rinsing, dab the vinyl furniture dry using a clean cloth. Never use ammonium on furniture before or after removing stains with bleach. This can create a deadly gas. Make sure to rinse off your stain remover completely. Every time you use a stain remover on vinyl furniture, make sure to rinse it off completely. Stain removers are harsher than regular cleaners and can cause damage and discoloration if left on. Make sure to rinse the vinyl furniture until the water runs clear after treating vinyl furniture for stains. Cover your furniture when it's not in use. Use a clean sheet or outdoor covering to cover your vinyl furniture when it's not in use. This will protect your vinyl furniture from dirt and debris, preserving it over time. This is also helpful for vinyl furniture that is stored outside, as it helps protect vinyl furniture from sun damage. Wipe away small stains as they occur. If you act fast, you can wipe up stains before they become set. If anything spills on your vinyl furniture, use a rag or paper towel to wipe it up in the moment. This will limit the need to use bleach and other chemicals on vinyl furniture, preserving it over time. Clean your vinyl furniture regularly. If you clean your vinyl furniture on a regular basis, this will prevent stains over time. Aim to clean your vinyl furniture every six weeks to maintain it. To keep on track with cleaning, mark when your vinyl furniture is due for cleaning in a calendar.	Mix warm water and soap. Scrub down your vinyl furniture with a soft bristle brush. Rinse your vinyl furniture with clean water. Dry your vinyl furniture. Use bleach and water on mild stains. Remove mildew with ammonium and hydrogen peroxide. Make sure to rinse off your stain remover completely. Cover your furniture when it's not in use. Wipe away small stains as they occur. Clean your vinyl furniture regularly.
https://www.wikihow.com/Get-Kids-to-Sleep	How to Get Kids to Sleep	To help your child go to sleep, try turning on a fan or playing white noise through an app on your phone to drown out distractions that may be keeping them awake. If this doesn't work, look for calming, slow music on a CD or playlist and put it on at a low volume to relax your child. Additionally, avoid immediately rushing into the room if your child calls out since they may drift back to sleep themselves. If you feel you need to go back, keep your visit brief by giving them a quick hug and telling them it's time to sleep.	Determine how much sleep your child needs. While every child is different, and while every child will go through occasional periods where they need more or less sleep, there are general guidelines for how much sleep your child needs depending upon his/her age. Once you figure out the number of hours you should be aiming for, work backwards from the time they have to wake up so that you can pinpoint their ideal bedtime. Toddlers (1-3) typically need 12-14 hours of sleep in a 24-hour period, some of which may be taken up with naps. Preschoolers (3-5) may be phasing out naps, but still usually need a good 11 to 13 hours of sleep each night. Grade-schoolers (5-12) will function best with 10 to 11 hours of sleep. Teenagers (13 and up) still need quite a lot of sleep, and should try to get at least 9 to 9 ½ hours of sleep each night. Create a bedtime schedule. Consistency and predictability is key for children of all ages, so you'll want to be sure to create a clear time-table that your child knows you will stick to in the evening. Decide when homework will be completed, when your child will bathe, by what time they need to be pajamas, and when your bedtime routine (stories, songs, etc.) will start. Work with your child to create the evening schedule. Your child may adapt better and be more willing to go to bed if he/she feels that some degree of control over the evening activities. Sit down with him/her to create the calendar together, and have fun creating a poster or chart which outlines the schedule. Then be sure to put the poster in a prominent place (ideally near a clock) where you can together consult it throughout the evening. Be willing to adjust the schedule as your child grows. If your older child or teenager is having sleep issues, it may be because his/her internal clocks are shifting. he/she may want to stay up later, and may even be unable to fall asleep at an early time. Even so, if he/she has to be up early for school, he/she needs his/her sleep to be able to function and learn. Check in regularly with your older child so that you can together adjust his/her schedule as much as possible so that his/her sleep is kept a priority. Schedule disliked activities for as early as possible. If there's a necessary part of your evening routine that your child hates, consider getting it over with as early as possible so that it doesn't become negatively associated with bedtime. For example, while taking a warm bath is a relaxing part of many children's nightly routine, your child may hate baths (or showers) with a passion. If so, consider scheduling bath-time right after dinner and before quiet play time, so that your child doesn't have to endure it right before bed. Give your child a heads-up as bedtime approaches. Your child will probably be less likely to throw a tantrum over bedtime if you give them adequate warning. This way, they can prepare to switch gears from one activity to the next. For example, give your child a five minute warning before bath-time, and then another five minute warning before you need to head to the bedroom for story-time. Give your child choices. The appearance of choice can be important to kids of all ages, so even though your schedule is firm, you can still find ways to let your child exert some independence. For example, after your child has bathed and changed into pajamas, you can ask: “Now what do you want to do? Do you want to pick out your story or your bedtime buddies?” Include rituals in your bedtime routine. Along with your child, come up with a nightly ritual that you can look forward to, and that as you go through it, will signal to your child that sleepytime is around the corner. For example, perhaps you'll begin by reading two stories while cuddled up, will then sing your favorite lullaby or say your prayers, say your “I-love-you's”, have your good-night kiss, and then lights out. Prepare your child's room for sleep. As part of your nightly routine, you may want to consider “fixing” your child's room for sleep. For example, you can help arrange all of his/her stuffed animals around the bed, or sprinkle “good dream dust” around the room. Use your imaginations, and try to find a way to make your child's room and bed feel like a warm, inviting, magical place for sleep. Chase away the monsters. If your child is scared of the dark or fears that there may be monsters hiding under his/her bed, you may be able to alleviate his/her worries by concocting a special “monster spray” that you can ritualistically spray around his/her bedroom before lights out. Little will he/she know that this magical formula is just water in a spray-bottle! Plan your child's dreams. You may be able to help your child get excited for sleep if you talk together and “plan” out what he/she will dream about: What adventures will he/she go on tonight? Will he/she travel with his/her stuffed animals or friends to Neverland, just like Peter Pan in the story you just read? Be sure to ask your child about their dreams when he/she wakes up. You may even want to help him/her keep a dream journal that you can write and illustrate together. He/she may be more eager to fall asleep at night if he/she knows he/she will be able to make an entry in his/her journal in the morning. Avoid staying with your child while he/she goes to sleep. While your child may want you to stay with him/her until he/she drifts off, and while you might be tempted to grab a few more quiet cuddles, you could be setting yourself up for trouble if your child becomes dependent upon you in order to be able to fall asleep. If your child needs you to cuddle, rock, or sing him/her to sleep, he/she won't be able to fall back asleep on their own during the night should then wake up. This is what is sometimes referred to as “sleep-onset association disorder”. Provide your child with transitional objects. Giving your child with a favorite stuffed animal or blanket can be an effective substitute for your presence. Tuck both your child and his/her buddy, toy, or blanket into bed, and then reassure him/her that the toy will help him/her fall asleep. Design a special sleep pillow for your child. Your child may look forward to sleep if you together design a special sleep pillow (or blanket): decorate it with happy, safe thoughts, pictures, or poems. You can then place a magical “spell” on the pillow that will guarantee your child will have good, fun dreams and restful sleep. Stay (mostly) consistent on the weekends. Overall, it's important to try to stick to as close of a regular sleeping schedule as possible. As a family, you may be tempted move away from your regular bedtime schedule and to sleep in on the weekends. While your child may need an extra hour or so of sleep on the weekend, letting them sleep in much longer than that could make Sunday night (why won't he/she fall asleep?!) and Monday morning (why won't he/she wake up?!) unbearable. Create white noise. Some parents report being amazed at the seemingly instant improvement they see in their child's sleep after adding a source of white noise to the room. This can drown out any distractions from the rest of the household or mask any random “scary” noises your child may focus upon when trying to fall asleep, such as the house settling or pipes clanking. You can purchase white noise machines, download free or cheap white noise apps for a tablet, or even just plug in a simple fan. Play soothing music for your child. If your child isn't relaxed by the noise of a fan or of oceans waves from a white noise machine, he/she may nonetheless respond well to having soft music played. Search for cd's or music apps that play calming, slow music or lullabies. Classical, instrumental music is a good choice, but be aware that some longer pieces have louder, more “stressful” movements that could wake your child up. Spray lavender on your child's pillow. Lavender oil has a calming effect and is known to help some sufferers of insomnia. If your child likes the scent, then consider spritzing his/her pillow a lavender mist. You could also consider putting drops of lavender oil into your child's “monster spray” if you're using that trick, as well. Keep the room dark. In general, it's best for our rooms to be dark when we sleep, and it's especially important to reduce the “blue-light” from electronic devices such as alarm clocks, computers, and phones, which can interrupt natural circadian rhythms. Even so, your child may be uncomfortable sleeping in a completely darkened room. If so, you may want to select a nightlight together. You can also search for nightlights which turn off after a short period (usually 30-60 minutes). These often project scenes onto the ceiling (stars or favorite cartoon characters). You can place it next to your child's bed so that if he/she wakes up in the night, he/she can easily turn it back on. Find the ideal temperature. The quality of our sleep is directly affected by the temperature at which we're sleeping. If we're too hot or too cold, our REM sleep (the period during which we're dreaming) can be interrupted. There's no one ideal temperature for all people: some people rest more easily with the temperature turned low, while others prefer it to be slightly toastier. Experiment with turning the temperature up or down depending upon how your child reports feeling, and make sure that your child's pajamas are comfortable as well. Keep track of Fido. Your child may have an easier time falling asleep if you allow the family pet to curl up in (or near) your child's bed. So long as you don't think that Fido's presence is interfering with your child's sleep, this shouldn't be a problem. You may have to get firm, though, and remove the pet if it looks like it is keeping or waking your child up. Switch out the real pet for a fluffy stuffed-animal substitute, and you should be fine. Control the noise in the rest of the house. If your child is a light sleeper or can't stand going to bed before older siblings, he/she may be on the alert for noises coming from outside his/her bedroom. Do your best to turn down the volume on televisions, radios, and gaming systems, and if possible, make sure they aren't set up immediately outside your child's bedroom door. If you have dogs that are prone to barking, try to keep them as far from your child's bedroom as possible, or give them a chew toy or treat to distract them at least until your child is more deeply asleep. Having a source of white noise or soft music in your child's bedroom can also help block noises from outside his/her room. Help your child develop self-soothing skills. At various stages in your child's life, he/she may need you more, particularly if he/she struggling with anxiety or nightmares. Even so, he/she will need to learn to soothe and calm himself/herself when you can't be there—for example, on sleepovers. Work with your child to practice meditation, prayer, breathing exercises, or even singing to himself/herself so that he/she can learn to relax on his/her own, and hopefully fall asleep by himself/herself. While it's a good idea to practice these soothing techniques regularly (and during the daytime), practice with his/her before bedtime, and remind his/her to try them out if he/she wakes up during the night. Wait before responding to your child's calls. If your child wakes up during the night—or calls out to you shortly after you've put him/her down—avoid running into the room immediately. It's possible that if you wait a few moments, your child will drift back to sleep by himself/herself. Keep your return visits brief. If your child doesn't fall back to sleep, you needn't feel as though you must ignore his/her calls for you. Return to his/her room, tuck him/her back in while reminding him that it's time for sleep, give him/her a quick hug and kiss, and then leave. Offer to check in on your child. Your child may be reassured if you promise to check in after a few minutes—perhaps 5 or ten. That's only a short time he/she will have to be alone, and if he/she can trust that you'll return, he/she may relax enough to fall back asleep. Be sure to actually follow through and check in. If he/she is asleep—great! Be sure to let him/her know in the morning that you came back to give him/her another good night kiss, but that he/she was asleep already. Gently guide your child back to bed if he/she comes out of his room. If your child makes a sudden appearance after having been put to bed, gently but firmly guide him/her back to bed, and repeat the tucking in and saying good night routine. Stay firm (but loving) and consistent. You may have to repeat this several times, but your child will soon learn that he/she can't buy extra awake time by sneaking out of bed. Create a reward system. Your child may respond well to a reward system where you offer him/her stars or stickers for nights that he/she fell asleep on his/her own, stayed in bed, or went to bed without a fuss. After he/she has won a certain number of stars or stickers (for example three), he/she will win a prize like a new book. If this is a new reward system, be sure to offer prizes after only a fairly short amount of time. If you make his/her work for a month before he/she will win his/her treat, he/she may lose focus and motivation. Remain flexible. While it's important to stay consistent, understand that there's no one strategy that will work for all or that should be used by all. You need to know your kid, and know when to break the rules: When is he/she clearly troubled? When is his/her sleep issue a symptom of a bigger problem? When would he/she benefit from a longer cuddle or even a night in bed with you? Consult your pediatrician. Make sure that part of your regular conversation with your pediatrician during your child's check-ups is devoted to discussing your child's sleep habits. It's possible that any new problems could be because of developmental or hormonal changes, or even an illness. Feed your child a healthy snack before bed. Little ones are sometimes unable to sleep because their tummies are rumbling, or they wake up too early in need of breakfast. You may be able to see a big difference in your child's sleep patterns if you prepare them a carbohydrate-rich snack half an hour before bed. Good options are bananas, cereal, or a small peanut butter sandwich on wheat bread, which has the added benefit of protein, which can also keep your child's tummy full longer. Try the tried-and-true warm milk “potion”. Many parents swear by the almost magical effects of a soothing cup of warm milk to help their child relax and drift off to sleep. The milk is a nice combination of carbohydrates and protein, which can help settle your child's stomach and squash any hunger pangs. Also, serving the warm beverage in a favorite mug is comforting and soothing, which can also help explain why so many children respond well to this remedy. To make the drink more appealing, you may want to add a teaspoon or so of honey to the heated milk, or try adding a few drops of vanilla extract. Cut out the caffeine. It should probably go without saying that your child shouldn't be drinking soda (or coffee!) in the evening. However, if your child is struggling to fall and stay asleep, one of the underlying reasons could be because he/she is stimulated from the caffeine he/she has consumed earlier in the day. In order to promote a healthier sleeping schedule, carefully examine your child's diet and cut out any sources of caffeine. Pay attention to the labels of all of their beverages and snacks: caffeine is sometimes found in surprising items, such as what you thought were “un-caffeinated” root beers, juices, or energy waters. Caffeine can also be found in some candy, ice cream, and cocoa drinks, so you many want to limit these treats. Control your child's sugar intake. Even if your child isn't hopped up on caffeine, their energy levels could be pumped up because of too much sugar. Take care to control your child's intake of sugar, particularly after dinner. Provide your child with a complete, balanced diet. Whether you are looking for bedtime snack ideas for your child or looking for ways to improve your child's overall diet, the food choices you offer can have an impact on his/her sleep. Make sure that your child has a well-rounded diet, and be sure to check in with your child's pediatrician before making any major changes. Consider adding some healthy sleep-promoting foods to your child's diet. While none of these foods will magically make your child drift off to sleep, they are all healthy options that may promote better sleep. Try adding any of these to your child's plate: Cherries: these are a good source of melatonin, which is the chemical that helps us regulate our sleep patterns. Jasmine rice: this rates highly on the glycemic index (how long it takes your body to digest the glucose (sugar) in the food. A higher score is better, meaning the glucose is released slowly into the bloodstream, making us less vulnerable to blood sugar crashes. Fortified cereals made with whole grains: search for cereals and grains which are a good source of complex carbohydrates. Quinoa, oatmeal, and barley are also good options. (good complex carbs) Bananas and sweet potatoes: besides being a good source of healthy carbohydrates, both of these contain good levels of magnesium and potassium, which can help relax muscles. Limit beverages before bed. You may begin to see an improvement in sleep patterns if you limit the amount that your child drinks before going to bed. Thus, make sure that your child isn't drinking all throughout the evening after dinner. If your child needs to get up to use the bathroom shortly after being put to bed, he/she will have to start the falling-asleep process all over again. If he/she had managed to get a few winks of sleep in before waking up, then it could be all the much harder for his/her to go back to sleep after this “power nap”. Keep drinks small. While drinking a mug of warm milk may be part of a good bedtime routine, and while you don't want your child to become dehydrated, you don't want to overfill his/her bladder. Otherwise, he/she will be waking up during the night or getting up way too early. Offer your child just a small 2 to 4 ounce mug of milk, for example, or give him/her small sips of water. Visit the bathroom before bed. You should also be sure to have your child go to the bathroom as one of the last steps of his/her bedtime routine. This will help cut down on accidents and hopefully allow your child to stay asleep longer without a full bladder. Get exercise in earlier in the day. Making sure that your child gets sufficient exercise is important for his/her overall health, and it will also help him/her sleep better to have burned off energy throughout the day. Even so, you may find that allowing your child to jump and run around in the hours before bedtime could get him/her too wound up for sleep. Some research has indicated that exercising at a moderate intensity for at least thirty minutes early in the day (preferably in the morning) can positively impact the length and quality of a person's sleep. Avoid rough-housing before bed. Similarly, while it's great fun to allow your children to wrestle together—or to join in with them yourself—you want to avoid encouraging any behavior which will get them overly excited as bedtime approaches. Consider doing a family session of yoga before bed. Yoga isn't a practice just for young, limber 20-somethings! While you want to avoid any strenuous exercise in the evening, your child may benefit from the calming effects of a yoga routine. This can help him/her relax both his/her mind and his/her body as he/she unwinds from a busy day. Recent studies have indicated that yoga practice can lead to improved sleep. Finish homework well before bed. One reason an older child may have trouble falling or staying asleep is if he/she is worried about completing all of his/her schoolwork. If his/her projects aren't finished before he/she goes to bed, he/she may be worried about needing to finish it at breakfast or on the bus, and this nagging worry could be interfering with his/her ability to “shut off” his/her mind and get sleep. Help your child establish a clear homework schedule and create an organizing system to help him/her keep track of his/her homework and due dates. If he/she has a designated time and place to do him/her homework in the afternoon or evening, he/she will be less likely to go to bed with it unfinished. Limit electronics in the hours before bed. Research consistently shows that it is much harder for us to fall asleep immediately after “screen time”. Blue-light emitting devices, such as game consoles, computer screens, tablets, and smartphones are all “blue-light emitting devices,” and exposure to them is thought to interrupt our natural circadian rhythms (our natural sleep cycles). Teenagers seem to be particularly sensitive to the sleep-disrupting effects of these devices. Make sure, then, that your child “unplugs” at least an hour before bedtime. Address any anxiety triggers. Your child may also be suffering from poor sleep because of problems with anxiety or stress. Particularly if this sleep issue is new, take the time to talk with your child about what is going on in his/her life: is he/she worried, nervous, or scared about something? Is he/she having problems with his/her teachers or friends? Once you've identified any underlying problems, be sure to work with your child to come up with coping strategies, meet with his/her teachers if necessary, and if the problem is severe, be sure to meet with your child's pediatrician to get a referral for counselor. Schedule favorite family activities for earlier in the day. Sometimes younger children have trouble going to bed when they feel they're missing out on fun activities with older family members after their bedtime. To reduce this fear of missing out, consider planning activities your younger child likes earlier in the day so they can participate. If older family members do take part in activities a younger child enjoys after their bedtime, they should avoid talking about it and making the younger child feel left out. If your child persuades you to let him/her stay up later than usual one night, and you do activities he/she finds boring, he/she won't be as tempted to stay up late another night.	Determine how much sleep your child needs. Create a bedtime schedule. Work with your child to create the evening schedule. Be willing to adjust the schedule as your child grows. Schedule disliked activities for as early as possible. Give your child a heads-up as bedtime approaches. Give your child choices. Include rituals in your bedtime routine. Prepare your child's room for sleep. Chase away the monsters. Plan your child's dreams. Avoid staying with your child while he/she goes to sleep. Provide your child with transitional objects. Design a special sleep pillow for your child. Stay (mostly) consistent on the weekends. Create white noise. Play soothing music for your child. Spray lavender on your child's pillow. Keep the room dark. Find the ideal temperature. Keep track of Fido. Control the noise in the rest of the house. Help your child develop self-soothing skills. Wait before responding to your child's calls. Keep your return visits brief. Offer to check in on your child. Gently guide your child back to bed if he/she comes out of his room. Create a reward system. Remain flexible. Consult your pediatrician. Feed your child a healthy snack before bed. Try the tried-and-true warm milk “potion”. Cut out the caffeine. Control your child's sugar intake. Provide your child with a complete, balanced diet. Consider adding some healthy sleep-promoting foods to your child's diet. Limit beverages before bed. Keep drinks small. Visit the bathroom before bed. Get exercise in earlier in the day. Avoid rough-housing before bed. Consider doing a family session of yoga before bed. Finish homework well before bed. Limit electronics in the hours before bed. Address any anxiety triggers. Schedule favorite family activities for earlier in the day.
https://www.wikihow.com/Catch-an-Isopod	How to Catch an Isopod	To catch isopods, look for them in dark, damp places, like underneath branches, rocks, and leaves. Just move slowly and carefully when you flip things over so you don't scare the isopods away. If you find one, use a spoon to scoop it up, and place it into a plastic cup. Once you've captured some isopods, you can keep them in an aquarium that's lined with a couple inches of damp soil.	Get a plastic cup and spoon to catch the isopods. Cut a few holes in the lid of a clean, plastic drinking cup to create ventilation. A plastic spoon is good for quickly scooping up any isopods you find and transferring them to the cup. Alternatively, use a plastic container with a lid. Look for isopods in dark, sheltered, and damp places. Isopods like pillbugs and sowbugs are often found under logs, rocks, compost heaps, and leaf litter. Flip logs and rocks carefully, and use the spoon to disturb leaf litter and compost heaps. The isopods will scatter when they are disturbed and exposed to light. Try looking for isopods in your backyard, parks, forests, and around ponds. A flashlight can be useful for spotting isopods. See if the isopod rolls into a ball to spot a pillbug. It's easy to tell pillbugs and sowbugs apart. Pillbugs curl into a ball when they feel threatened whereas sowbugs just scatter. Pillbugs and sowbugs are very common garden isopods. They both make great pets! Scoop the isopods into the plastic cup with the spoon. Take the lid off the cup before you upturn any logs or rustle any leaves. Carefully move the logs, rocks, compost, or leaf litter and begin searching. Place the plastic spoon in front of an isopod as it moves and then transfer it into the cup. Try a different spot once you can't see any more isopods, as they will all be hiding. Lightly tap the spoon on the side of the container to drop the isopod in. Cut a potato in half lengthwise and scoop out each center with a spoon. Place the potato on a chopping board and use a sharp knife to slice it. Isopods love to eat rotting vegetables, so potatoes make great bait. Get an adult to help if you have trouble with the knife. You don't need to wash or peel the potato. Place each potato half skin-side down under a log or in leaf litter. Find a damp, dark place in your backyard to put the potato traps. Position each potato half like a bowl and cover it well with leaves. Make sure that each potato half is covered fully by leaves so that it isn't exposed to the light. Collect isopods from the potato halves after 24-48 hours. Gently move the log or leaf litter to uncover the trap. Lift the trap and use a plastic spoon to scoop out any isopods into a plastic container. Otherwise, tap the potato gently over the opening on the container so the isopods fall in. Make sure the plastic container lid has holes for ventilation. Get a 1 US gal (3.8 L) plastic container with holes in the lid. Either a plastic storage container or a small aquarium is ideal. Use scissors or a drill to punch a few holes in the lid so that air can circulate. This container size is great for 20-30 isopods. Ask an adult for help using scissors or a drill if you need. Add 2 in (5.1 cm) of damp soil to the bottom of the container. Put on some gardening gloves and get soil from where you found the isopods. Spread it out evenly across the bottom of the container. Replace the soil twice each year and remove any dead isopods at the same time. Mist the soil with water every day to keep it damp. Fill up a spray bottle with cool water. Check the soil twice per day and lightly spray it with water to keep it moist. The soil only needs to be damp, not saturated. You don't need to give the isopods drinking water, as they get plenty from the moist soil and their food. Place stones, bark, or crumpled paper in the container to give the isopods cover. Look around your backyard and collect anything that you think the isopods would like. Small twigs and a few leaves work well too! Try to make the container look like the natural habitat. Transfer the isopods into their new home. Use a plastic spoon to carefully move the isopods from the collection container into their new habitat. You can also gently tip the plastic container onto the soil, as the isopods won't get hurt when they fall. Remember to put the lid on the container when you are done. Feed the isopods 1 slice of potato per week. Potatoes are great for isopods because it gives them all of the nutrients and moisture they need. Replace the potato every week with a fresh slice. Isopods also love carrots, lettuce, and oatmeal.	Get a plastic cup and spoon to catch the isopods. Look for isopods in dark, sheltered, and damp places. See if the isopod rolls into a ball to spot a pillbug. Scoop the isopods into the plastic cup with the spoon. Cut a potato in half lengthwise and scoop out each center with a spoon. Place each potato half skin-side down under a log or in leaf litter. Collect isopods from the potato halves after 24-48 hours. Get a 1 US gal (3.8 L) plastic container with holes in the lid. Add 2 in (5.1 cm) of damp soil to the bottom of the container. Mist the soil with water every day to keep it damp. Place stones, bark, or crumpled paper in the container to give the isopods cover. Transfer the isopods into their new home. Feed the isopods 1 slice of potato per week.
https://www.wikihow.com/Store-Cast-Iron-Cookware	How to Store Cast Iron Cookware	Cast iron cookware is a great, long-lasting option as long as you take good care of it. Before storing your cast iron, make sure to clean it with warm water. Avoid using soap, which can cause your food to stick to your cookware. You'll also want to make sure to fully dry your cast iron to prevent rusting. Once your cookware is clean, find a dry area to store it in, like on the stove or in the oven. You can also put it in a cabinet or cupboard as long as the area is completely dry. If you're stacking your cookware, put a paper towel between the pots and pans to prevent damage and scratching.	Find a dry area. The most important thing to remember when storing cast iron cookware is that the area you choose must be dry. Moisture is what causes cast iron cookware to rust, so it's important you store cast iron pots and pans somewhere dry. Many people leave cast iron cookware on the stove for storage. If you don't mind having a pot or pan out all the time, this is generally safe. However, remove cast iron cookware when using the stove. You do not want steam or water to accidentally get cast iron cookware wet. You can also store cast iron cookware in a cabinet or cupboard somewhere in your kitchen, as long as you make sure the area you choose is generally dry. Under the sink, for example, may be a bad idea. Leaky pipes could get a cast iron skillet wet, causing rust. Place a piece of paper towel between stacked pans. You may have more than one cast iron pot or pan to store. If you're stacking cast iron cookware, always place a piece of paper towel between cast iron pots and pans. This prevents scratches and other damage. Store your cast iron cookware in an oven. Many people prefer to store cast iron cookware in an oven. This is generally a safe, dry place to keep your cast iron cookware when it's not in use. However, if your cookware has any wooden parts, you should not store it in an oven as this is a fire hazard. When removing cast iron cookware from the oven, make sure to use oven mitts. Cast iron cookware will get very hot inside the oven. Remove the lid prior to storage. Proper ventilation is important when it comes to storing cast iron cookware. You want to make sure any moisture evaporates. Therefore, leave lids off when storing cast iron cookware. Lids can trap moisture, leading to problems like rust. Make sure your pan is seasoned. Seasoning is a process that helps cast iron cookware become non-stick. A seasoned pan will be easier to clean and dry, making rust in storage less likely. If you have not already seasoned your cast iron cookware, do so prior to using and storing. You can season your pan in the oven or on the stove top. The process usually involves coating the pan with some kind of oil, like vegetable or canola oil. Some people prefer to use grease or lard for the process. To season in the oven, you would preheat your oven to 300 degrees Fahrenheit. Lightly coat the pan with oil, lard, or grease and let bake for an hour. Then, remove the pan with oven mitts and wipe off any excess oil, grease, or lard. To season on a stovetop, heat the pan on the stove top until it's hot to the touch. At a light layer of oil, grease, or lard. Leave the pan on the stove top for a few more minutes, then remove. Wipe away any excess oil, grease, or lard. Clean your cast iron cookware properly before storing. You want to make sure your cast iron cookware is completely clean prior to storage. You should clean messes from a cast iron skillet right away, before they become set in. You should wash your cast iron cookware with hot water, never using soap. You should never allow cast iron cookware to soak in the sink, as this can cause rust. You can use a sponge or a stiff, non-metal brush to clean a cast iron pan after use. If there is a lot of set on food mess, add a cup of kosher salt to the pan. Take a pair of tongs and wrap a towel around them. Fill the pan with warm water, and scrub with the salt until the food comes unstuck. Then, rinse the pan thoroughly. Dry your cast iron cookware completely prior to storage. You should never store cast iron cookware that is still wet. This can easily lead to rust. You should dry the cookware as much as you can with a towel. Then, set the pan or pot on the stovetop at low heat. Leave for a few minutes, as long as it takes for the pan or pot to get warm. After a few minutes have passed, use a paper towel to rub the pan or pot with a small coating of lard, grease, or oil. Heat for 5 to 10 more minutes. Allow the pan or pot to cool. Wipe away any excess oil. Now, your pan or pot should be safe to store. Soak the pan in vinegar. Even if you're careful to take every precaution, your cookware may rust. Cast iron cookware is made to last, so rust can usually be successfully removed. If your cookware is very rusted, doing a vinegar soak can help remove rust and restore the pan. Mix equal parts white vinegar and water. Make enough to fully submerge your pot and pan. You can soak the pan in a bucket or in your sink. Check the pan about once an hour. As soon as most of the rust is gone, you should remove the pot or pan from the vinegar. If you let cookware soak after the rust is gone, the vinegar will eat into the cast iron surface. Once you remove the pot or pan, rinse and dry before storing again. Scrub out any lingering rust with soap. While soap should rarely be used on a cast iron pan, it can be helpful for scrubbing out any rust left after a vinegar soak. Use a mild detergent and warm water to scrub out any remaining rust. Never put cast iron cookware in your dishwasher. A green scrub pad or steel wool would work well. Once you've scrubbed out any remaining rust, dry the pan completely. Re-season the pan. A vinegar soak will remove the cookware's seasoning. You should re-season your pan after removing rust. Re-seasoning methods do vary based on the type and size of cookware, so you may want to do some research first. However, many types of cast iron cookware can be re-seasoned with aluminum foil and oil. Place a piece of aluminum foil in the oven and then preheat to 350 degrees Fahrenheit. Rub vegetable oil over the entire pot or pan. Set the pot or pan upside down over the foil. This will catch any oil that drips down during cooking. Let the cookware bake for an hour, and then cool for 45 minutes.	Find a dry area. Place a piece of paper towel between stacked pans. Store your cast iron cookware in an oven. Remove the lid prior to storage. Make sure your pan is seasoned. Clean your cast iron cookware properly before storing. Dry your cast iron cookware completely prior to storage. Soak the pan in vinegar. Scrub out any lingering rust with soap. Re-season the pan.
https://www.wikihow.com/Diagnose-Dysplasia-in-German-Shepherds	How to Diagnose Dysplasia in German Shepherds	If you notice your German Shepherd whining when it walks, limping, or hesitating reluctantly when it needs to move its back legs, it may have hip dysplasia. In young dogs, the first sign of pain may appear as difficulty climbing stairs, jumping into a car, or even just running and exercising freely. Take your German Shepherd to the veterinarian if you notice it having any mobility issues. Your vet will determine whether the issue is hip dysplasia or a related issue by examining your dog's mobility, checking its genetic history, if available, and performing some exams. These tests may include blood and urine samples, a physical exam of your dog's back legs, and radiographs of its hip joints.	Watch for pain in the hips. A common sign of hip dysplasia is painful hips. You may hear whining when your dog walks, or see a decreased level of activity. Your dog may have a tendency to rest the sore leg when standing. He may also move back on forth from one leg to the other. Some dogs may react aggressively if you go to stroke or touch the hip area because of pain. In young dogs, the first sign of pain might be that the German shepherd has difficulty climbing stairs or jumping into a car. They may also not be able to run and exercise freely, as you would expect in a young dog. Look for lameness affecting the back end. Dogs can present at a young age, from six to 12 months, with sudden back end lameness. Other dogs may not present until they are middle aged as their mobility gradually worsens as they age. The lameness may be worse after periods of exercise. Lameness can affect just one leg if one side is worse or both back legs. Your dog may stand with a markedly dropped back end. He may also move in a bunny-hop manner, swinging both back legs forward as the same time instead of moving them independently. If your dog is an older dog, he may walk with a limp. Check for muscle atrophy. When you look at your dog from behind, you may notice there is muscle wastage on the most severely affected leg. You may also notice muscle atrophy of the thighs. Because of this, the shoulder muscles may be larger because they will take up the slack. Monitor for movement hesitation or reluctance. Your dog may hesitate before he moves his back legs. For example, he may hesitate or take longer to push himself up when he's sitting on his back legs. He may also hesitate to run or jump. Your dog may have trouble squatting when he goes to the bathroom. He may also fall over when trying to use the bathroom. Look for narrow hips. Many dogs with hip dysplasia have narrow hips, and their back legs are spaced extremely close together. Take your German shepherd to the vet. If you notice that your German shepherd has any mobility issues, take him to the vet. You want to find out if it is due to hip dysplasia or another related issue. Examine the dog’s mobility. One of the first things your vet will do is watch the way your dog moves. The vet will watch him walk and run, and also examine how the dog copes with stairs. This will help the vet to see which leg is most painful and how badly affected it is. Provide a health history. One of the things your vet may need is a health history. This will include the dog's overall health, when the symptoms started, and any past injuries. The vet may also ask for breeding information to find any genetic connections. Perform a physical exam. The vet will perform a physical examination. The exam includes testing your dog's nerve reflexes by turning the paw upside down and pinching the toes. This helps to ascertain that the problem is physical with the joints rather than neurological with the nerves. The vet will then carefully manipulate the legs, flexing and extending each joint to test if the movement is normal or restricted. This also helps to confirm which areas are tender or sore. Your vet may also draw blood and take a urine sample. Get any additional exams. Based on the exam, the vet may suggest taking radiographs of the dog's hip joints. This is best done under anesthetic because to take meaningful x-rays means putting the dog's legs in positions which would be too painful for the conscious dog. While the dog is anesthetized and relaxed, the vet can perform special tests that involve testing the amount of movement out of the joint to see if it is within normal limits or not. A joint which moves out of joint a significant amount is going to be more painful, because the bones are constantly banging against each other. One problem with diagnosing hip dysplasia is that the radiographs need to be interpreted in light of the clinical signs, such as lameness, and the amount of the discomfort the dog is in. Treat the condition. Hip dysplasia is a painful condition, so your vet will prescribe pain relief for long term use. Typically this is a medication from the nonsteroidal antiinflammatory (NSAID) family. Your vet may recommend physical therapy for the joints, and exercises good for hip dysplasia, like swimming. If the problem is severe, there are a number of surgical procedures which can be done. These range from a femoral head excisions, where the femoral head is removed so it no longer bangs against the acetabulum, to a total hip replacement.	Watch for pain in the hips. Look for lameness affecting the back end. Check for muscle atrophy. Monitor for movement hesitation or reluctance. Look for narrow hips. Take your German shepherd to the vet. Examine the dog’s mobility. Provide a health history. Perform a physical exam. Get any additional exams. Treat the condition.
https://www.wikihow.com/Remove-Duct-Tape-Residue	How to Remove Duct Tape Residue	To remove duct tape residue, try using the edge of a credit card. Hold the edge parallel to the surface you are working on, and slowly scrape up the tape residue with it. You can also remove duct tape residue using a washcloth and warm water. Just scrub the residue with the damp cloth using circular motions until it comes off. If it won't come off, use rubbing alcohol instead of water. For really stubborn duct tape residue, use a hairdryer on the highest setting to soften the residue so it's easier to rub off. Aim the hairdryer at the residue and move it back and forth for a few minutes. Then wipe the softened residue off with a towel.	Scrape the residue off with a dull blade. A butter knife is ideal, but you may also use a putty knife or a razor with an attached guard. Hold the blade flat against the surface and slowly slide the knife over it to scrape off the residue. Be gentle to avoid scratching the surface. If you're worried about scratches, skip scraping. Soak a soft cloth in rubbing alcohol and rub at the area. Dampen the cloth with isopropyl rubbing alcohol from the medical section at any drug or general store. Make sure the cloth is clean and soft to avoid damaging the surface you're treating. Then, gently rub the cloth back and forth over the area until the adhesive comes off. The combination of the rubbing alcohol and friction from rubbing will remove most of it. Acetone or nail polish remover may be used instead, but are more likely to damage painted surfaces. Scrub the area with a mixture of dish soap and warm water. Place about a tablespoon of liquid dish detergent in two cups of water and stir until the mixture is bubbly. Then, dip a soft cloth into the soapy water and use it to gently scrub the residue. Keep rubbing the area until it no longer feels slippery or sticky to the touch. Any gentle or medium-strength soap can be used. Avoid ones that are designed for grease and other tough stains. Dry the surface with a cloth. Rub the surface with a clean cloth or paper towel to absorb the water. The surface should no longer feel rough or sticky from the residue. Soak a paper towel in cooking oil and lay it over the residue. Dab a paper towel into any type of cooking oil you have on hand. Lay the paper towel over the residue, then lift it after a few minutes. You can then rub or scrape the residue to get most of it off. Other oily products are also effective, such as baby oil, peanut butter, or mayonnaise. Be careful around absorbent material such as carpeting and clothing. The oil may cause stains. If you're concerned, try a baking soda paste instead. Mix together some coconut oil and baking soda. In a small bowl, combine an equal amount of the oil and baking soda. Mix them together to form a paste. If you don't have coconut oil, try mixing the baking soda or vinegar into warm water. Apply the paste and let it rest for 30 minutes. Dip something soft, such as a cloth or old toothbrush, into the paste. Transfer it over to the surface you're treating and spread it across the residue. Come back within 30 minutes to an hour to finish cleaning. Wash off the paste with warm water. Get a clean cloth and dampen it in warm water. The remaining residue will likely come off as you rub it with the damp cloth. Dry the surface with a cloth. Use a soft cloth or paper towel to dry the water and check for any remaining residue. You may also use a knife or paint scraper to loosen any remaining residue. Heat the residue with a hairdryer for a quick removal. Aim the hairdryer at the residue to soften it. After a minute, it should be heated enough to remove. Scrape it off carefully with a knife or other implement. If it doesn't come off all the way, switch to a different treatment. Spray WD-40 to treat metal surfaces. WD-40 is available at most general and home improvement stores. You can spray it directly onto areas with a lot of residue or dampen a terry cloth to treat smaller patches of residue. Leave it on for a minute, then scrub it off with soap and water. WD-40 is perfect for surfaces such as cars. Read the warnings on the canister to avoid using it on surfaces that it'll stain. Vaseline or car wax works as an alternative to WD-40. Apply a commercial residue remover for a stronger treatment. These products are also available at general stores. There are brands out there designed to remove the residue from commercial tape. Follow the directions on the label and the product will also work well for you at home. Use water pressure or sandblasting to clean rock and concrete. This can only be done on strong construction materials such as rock, brick, and concrete. Aim a high-pressure water system or sandblaster at the material. Briefly turn it on and off until the residue is gone. Be very careful when doing this. These machines can leave marks on most surfaces.	Scrape the residue off with a dull blade. Soak a soft cloth in rubbing alcohol and rub at the area. Scrub the area with a mixture of dish soap and warm water. Dry the surface with a cloth. Soak a paper towel in cooking oil and lay it over the residue. Mix together some coconut oil and baking soda. Apply the paste and let it rest for 30 minutes. Wash off the paste with warm water. Dry the surface with a cloth. Heat the residue with a hairdryer for a quick removal. Spray WD-40 to treat metal surfaces. Apply a commercial residue remover for a stronger treatment. Use water pressure or sandblasting to clean rock and concrete.
https://www.wikihow.com/Graft-Roses	How to Graft Roses	To graft roses, prune the buds and leaves off the rootstock, which should be the stem of a plant with some well-developed branches. Next, cut a T shape into the rootstock with a budding knife, but be careful not to cut through the light green cambium layer. Then, cut off the top and bottom from the stem you want to use as a scion, making sure you have at least one bud eye. You should also push the scion into the T-shaped part of the rootstock with the bud eye facing upwards. Finally, secure the bark flaps around the scion with grafting tape.	Choose the right time. Graft your roses in mid-summer, because this is when the sap inside the plants is flowing. If the sap and nutrients are flowing, there's a better chance the graft will take and the new rose will thrive. The best time for grafting is after the mid-summer bloom cycle, which usually occurs in August. Select a scion. The scion, or the bud, is the plant you are going to be grafting onto another plant. With roses, a scion is often chosen because of its beautiful flowers, because those flowers will continue to grow after the graft. The best scion is a young stem from the plant. The stem should have established leaves, should have flowered recently, and should have some hardwood starting to develop on it. For the best results, choose a stem from which the bloom has just faded. Choose a rootstock plant. The rootstock is the plant to which the graft will be fused. Rootstocks are often chosen because they're healthy and hardy, but they may not have the prettiest flowers. In order for the graft to take, the rootstock must be another rose plant. Two of the most popular rose varieties for rootstock are Dr. Huey and Fortuniana. Keep the plants well watered prior to the graft. Roses need plenty of water to thrive, and the graft will have a better chance of taking if both the scion and rootstock plants are well watered before the procedure. Ideally, start giving both plants daily waterings in the two weeks leading up to the graft. Make sure the roses are watered thoroughly two days prior to the graft, and the night before. Sterilize your knife. Plants are susceptible to viruses, bacteria, and fungi just like humans are. You can prevent the spread of disease by working with sterilized gardening tools, especially when you're carrying out a delicate procedure like a graft. Not only will this help ensure the graft takes, but also that the plant survives. The easiest way to sterilize your budding knife is with ethanol or isopropyl alcohol. Get a clean rag or cloth damp with the alcohol. Wipe the blade thoroughly, making sure you get the tip, sides, and base of the knife. Be careful not to cut yourself in the process. Set the blade aside to air dry for a few minutes. Prune the rootstock. With clean pruning shears, prune your rootstock plant to remove dead foliage, blooms, and stems. Select a healthy stem with many well-developed leaves for the actual graft site. Use the budding knife to remove all the buds and prickles from the middle section of the stem. Removing the prickles isn't strictly necessary, but it will prevent you from cutting yourself during the graft. Removing the buds is important because you want the buds from the scion to grow, not the ones from the rootstock. When pruning or taking cuttings, cut on a 45-degree angle to reduce damage and increase circulation. Cut a T into the rootstock. With the bud knife, cut an inch-long T shape into the bark of the rootstock. Make sure you do not penetrate the cambium layer, which is a wet, pale green color. Use the tip of the knife to gently open the flaps you created in the bark. The best place for the T cut is near the middle of the stem, between two nodes. Nodes are where leaves and buds grow out from the stem. Cut and trim a stem. Cut off the stem you want to use for the scion. Cut off the top and bottom from the stem, leaving a 2-inch (5-cm) section in the middle. Make sure that section of stem has at least one bud eye, where a new leaf could grow from the stem. Use the budding knife to cut off any prickles, buds, and leaves from the piece. Trim the stem an inch (2.5 cm) below the lowest bud eye. Cut the scion from the stem. Place the knife on the stem above the bud eye. Insert the blade deep enough into the stem to penetrate the bark and the cambium layer. This is the layer just behind the bark that carries nutrients. Cut out the bud eye, making sure you take the bark and cambium layer as well. Insert the scion in to the rootstock immediately. Make sure the bud eye is facing upward, as this means the stem is facing the right direction. As you insert the scion into the rootstock, the bark flaps will open around the scion. Push the scion all the way in to the bottom of the T, leaving the bud eye exposed at the top of the flaps. The cambium layers of the scion and root stock will now be in contact, and this is what will allow the graft to take. Secure the graft with grafting tape. Close the bark flaps over the scion. Wrap a few layers of grafting tape around the graft. Wrap the area above and below the bud eye, but leave the bud eye itself exposed. Don't be afraid to pull the tape gently to stretch it out, as this will ensure the cambium layers stay in contact. Give the plant plenty of water. Grafted plants need lots of water. For the next two weeks, water the rootstock daily to ensure the soil stays moist. You don't want the soil soaking wet, but make sure it stays damp. Trim the first buds from the scion. Once the scion starts to create new growth on the rootstock, it will begin to grow new buds. But while the scion is still establishing itself, the buds can be too heavy and can damage the bud union. To reduce stress on the bud union, trim off the first three or four buds that grow until the graft is fully healed. Trim the buds with a sharp knife or scissors as soon as they emerge. To help give the new plant the best chance, you can also prune the rootstock above the graft. Let the tape fall off on its own. Grafting tape is a special kind of tape, and over time it will naturally decompose and fall off. Do not remove the tape from the rootstock. When enough time has passed, the tape will come off on its own, and this will ensure it stays on long enough for the graft to heal.	Choose the right time. Select a scion. Choose a rootstock plant. Keep the plants well watered prior to the graft. Sterilize your knife. Prune the rootstock. Cut a T into the rootstock. Cut and trim a stem. Cut the scion from the stem. Insert the scion in to the rootstock immediately. Secure the graft with grafting tape. Give the plant plenty of water. Trim the first buds from the scion. Let the tape fall off on its own.
https://www.wikihow.com/Clean-Leeks	How to Clean Leeks	To clean leeks, start by cutting off the part with the roots as well as the dark green, stalky portion on the top, leaving the white and light green portions of the leek. Next, slice the remaining portion of the leek in half lengthwise from the light green top down to the white base, and chop the 2 halves according to your recipe. Then, place all the pieces into a large bowl of water, and swish them around with your hand to get any dirt off. Finally, after soaking the leeks for 5 minutes, drain them and rinse them with fresh water.	Cut off the portion of the leek with the roots. You will be cutting just above the base. Cut off the dark green, stalky portion of the leek at the top. You will be left with just the white and light green portions of the leek. Slice the remaining portion of the leek in half lengthwise from the light green top down to the white base. Chop the 2 halves of the leek according to your recipe for the day. The size of the bits of leek you need may vary depending on what recipe you are preparing. Place all chopped pieces of leek into a large bowl of water, and swish them around with your hand to separate them and encourage any dirt to come out from between the layers of leek. Leave them to soak for 5 minutes. Swish gently with your hand again to allow loose dirt to fall to the bottom. Drain the leeks using a colander. Rinse with fresh water while the leeks are still in the colander to remove any remaining dirt. Dump the leeks gently onto a clean towel, and use the other end of the towel to carefully pat them dry. Cut off the portion of the leek with the roots. You will be cutting just above the base. Cut off the dark green, stalky portion of the leek at the top. You will be left with just the white and light green portions of the leek. Slice the remaining portion of the leek in half lengthwise from the light green top down to the white base. Hold the 2 halves, 1 at a time, under running water separating each layer of leek from the others with your hands. Be careful to watch each layer and make sure that all dirt gets rinsed out. Decide whether your recipe of the day calls for dry leeks or if it is less specific. Press the leek halves between clean towels if the recipe calls for dry leeks. If it is less specific, then you do not need to do this. Chop the 2 halves of the leek according to your recipe for the day. The size of the bits of leek you need may vary depending on what recipe you are preparing. Finished.	Cut off the portion of the leek with the roots. Cut off the dark green, stalky portion of the leek at the top. Slice the remaining portion of the leek in half lengthwise from the light green top down to the white base. Chop the 2 halves of the leek according to your recipe for the day. Place all chopped pieces of leek into a large bowl of water, and swish them around with your hand to separate them and encourage any dirt to come out from between the layers of leek. Leave them to soak for 5 minutes. Swish gently with your hand again to allow loose dirt to fall to the bottom. Drain the leeks using a colander. Rinse with fresh water while the leeks are still in the colander to remove any remaining dirt. Dump the leeks gently onto a clean towel, and use the other end of the towel to carefully pat them dry. Cut off the portion of the leek with the roots. Cut off the dark green, stalky portion of the leek at the top. Slice the remaining portion of the leek in half lengthwise from the light green top down to the white base. Hold the 2 halves, 1 at a time, under running water separating each layer of leek from the others with your hands. Decide whether your recipe of the day calls for dry leeks or if it is less specific. Chop the 2 halves of the leek according to your recipe for the day. Finished.
https://www.wikihow.com/Make-Glue-out-of-Milk	How to Make Glue out of Milk	To make glue out of milk, start by heating 1 cup of milk on the stove until it's warm. Then, add 1 tbsp of white vinegar and cook the solution for about 3 minutes until solid lumps, or curds, start forming. At that point, pour the solution through a strainer to get rid of the liquid, and mix the curds with 1 tbsp of baking soda and 1 tbsp of water. Then, put the mixture back in the pan and cook for 1 to 2 minutes. Once bubbles start to form, remove the pan from the heat and let it cool before using the mixture as a glue.	Heat 1 cup (240 mL) of milk over medium heat. Pour 1 cup (240 mL) of milk into a saucepan, then place the saucepan on the stove. Turn the stove on to medium heat and wait until the milk turns warm. Most people recommend skim milk, but you can try other types of milk as well. If this is for an experiment, make a few batches using different types of milk, such as 1%, 2%, and whole. You can even try goats' or sheep' milk. You must use dairy milk for this. Non-dairy milk, such as rice or soy, will not work. Stir in 1 tablespoon (15 mL) of white vinegar. It does not matter whether or not the vinegar is distilled.The purpose of the vinegar is to help separate the curds from the whey. If this is for an experiment, try using distilled vinegar in 1 batch and non-distilled vinegar in another. Cook the solution over low to medium heat until lumps form. Reduce the heat to low, then let the solution heat up, stirring often. After about 3 minutes, you should start seeing solid lumps form. These lumps are the curds! If it is taking too long for the lumps or curds to form, turn the heat up to medium. Pour the solution through a strainer. Set a strainer over a glass, mug, or bowl. Take the saucepan off the stove and pour the solution through the strainer. Keep the lumpy curds caught in the strainer, and discard the liquid whey that's in the glass, mug, or bowl. If you don't have a strainer, pour the solution through a cheesecloth or a coffee filter. Press the curds down with a paper towel to help further soak up any whey. Mix the curds with 1 tablespoon (15 grams) of baking soda and water. Transfer the curds back into the saucepan. Add 1 tablespoon (15 grams) of baking soda and a little bit of water. Stir everything together with a fork or spoon until the texture is consistent. If the mixture is spread so thinly across the bottom of the saucepan that you can see the metal, transfer it into an even smaller pan. Don't use baking powder. It's not the same thing. The baking soda will help turn the mixture sticky, while the water will help bind it together and make it more glue-like. Heat the mixture over medium heat until it starts to bubble. Set the saucepan back on the stove and turn the heat up to medium. Cook the mixture until it starts to bubble, then turn the stove off. This will take about 1 to 2 minutes. If the glue is still too thin, add some more baking soda and water. Let the mixture cool before you use it as a glue. Turn the stove off and set the saucepan aside. Wait until the mixture cools down to about room temperature. Once it has cooled, you can apply it with a paintbrush. This glue may take up to 2 or 4 hours to set. Clamp pieces together with rubber bands or clothespins until the glue dries for best adhesion. Use the glue within 24 hours and discard the rest. It does not contain any preservatives, so it will spoil within 24 hours at room temperature. You may be able to keep the glue in the fridge for a few days, but put it into a jar first. Dissolve 2 packets of unflavored gelatin in 2 tablespoons (30 mL) of water. Pour 2 tablespoons (30 mL) of water into a small bowl, then add two 1/2-ounce (14-g) packets of unflavored gelatin. Give the mixture a stir to help dissolve the gelatin. Don't use flavored gelatin of Jello. It is not the same thing. The added sugars will also make the glue too sticky. This may seem like a lot of gelatin for so little water, but the goal is to create a thick base for the glue. You will be adding 3 tablespoons (45 mL) of milk into this later on, so make sure that the bowl is big enough. Set the gelatin aside for 1 hour so that it can thicken. If this is for a science project, you can start working on the rest of your presentation to help save some time. Heat 3 tablespoons (45 mL) of skim milk over medium heat. You want the milk to become warm enough so that it starts to steam. Don't let it come to a boil, however; if it starts to simmer, turn the heat down or take it off the stove. You must use dairy milk for this. Non-dairy milk, such as almond or coconut, will not work. It will only take a few minutes for the milk to heat up. Do this just after the gelatin has finished setting. If you can't use the stove, heat the milk in the microwave for 15 to 30 seconds. If your microwave is very strong, 5 to 10 seconds might be better. Stir the milk into the gelatin with a fork or spoon. Take the milk, and pour it into the bowl that has the gelatin in it. Stir the ingredients together until the milk is completely mixed into the gelatin. How much or how long you stir will be a little different each time. You want the color and texture to be consistent. Apply the glue while it is still hot. This glue is very strong, and once it dries, it is waterproof! It is suitable for glass, metal, ceramics, and porcelain. Keep in mind that this glue is not heat-resistant. While you can use it to glue broken dishes, you won't be able to use those dishes in the dishwasher or microwave; the heat will weaken it. Apply the glue with a stiff-bristled paintbrush. If it is too runny, let it cool a little bit so that it can thicken. It should still be warm when you use it, however. Use the glue within 24 hours. Because this glue does not contain any preservatives, it will spoil after 24 hours at room temperature. You can store this glue in a sealed jar in the fridge, but you'll have to warm it up in a pot of hot water before re-using it. If you want to make this glue last longer at room temperature, add 2 drops of clove oil.	Heat 1 cup (240 mL) of milk over medium heat. Stir in 1 tablespoon (15 mL) of white vinegar. Cook the solution over low to medium heat until lumps form. Pour the solution through a strainer. Mix the curds with 1 tablespoon (15 grams) of baking soda and water. Heat the mixture over medium heat until it starts to bubble. Let the mixture cool before you use it as a glue. Use the glue within 24 hours and discard the rest. Dissolve 2 packets of unflavored gelatin in 2 tablespoons (30 mL) of water. Set the gelatin aside for 1 hour so that it can thicken. Heat 3 tablespoons (45 mL) of skim milk over medium heat. Stir the milk into the gelatin with a fork or spoon. Apply the glue while it is still hot. Use the glue within 24 hours.
https://www.wikihow.com/Make-a-Cheese-Sandwich	How to Make a Cheese Sandwich	To make a grilled cheese sandwich, start by spreading 1 tablespoon of butter onto 2 slices of bread. Next, heat a skillet over medium heat and put in one slice of bread, buttered side down. Then, add 2 slices of cheese and top it with the other slice of bread with the buttered side facing up. Grill the sandwich for 3 minutes before flipping it over in the pan. Finally, continue cooking it for another 2 minutes until the other side is golden and the cheese is melted.	Butter two slices of bread. Spread ½ tablespoon of butter on each slice of bread. Only coat one side of the bread; leave the other side bare. You can use any type of bread you want, but sourdough works especially well in grilled cheese sandwiches. For a twist, pour some olive oil into the skillet instead of coating the sandwich with butter. Heat up a skillet over medium heat. You do not need to oil the skillet because the bread already has butter on it. Layer the bread and cheese onto the skillet. Place a slice of bread, butter-side-down, onto the skillet. Add 1 to 2 slices of Cheddar cheese on top of the bread. You can also try another type of cheese, such as Monterey Jack, for a gourmet sandwich. Add some extras, if desired, then the last slice of bread. You can leave your sandwich plain, or you can pile some extra ingredients on top of the cheese. When setting down the last slice of bread, make sure that the buttered side is facing upwards this time. Add cooked, sliced or crumbled bacon on top of the cheese. Place a slice of ham on top of the cheese. Sprinkle dried herbs, such as basil, oregano, or rosemary, on top of the cheese. This will work especially well if you put herbs on your sandwich. Add slices of tomato and cooked bacon. Grill the sandwich until it starts to turn a light brown color. This will take about 2 to 3 minutes. You can also wait for the cheese to start melting instead. Flip the sandwich over and continue grilling it. Once the sandwich has started to turn golden-brown and the cheese has melted, slide a spatula under it and flip it over. Grill the sandwich for another 1 to 2 minutes. Serve the sandwich. Use a spatula to transfer it from the skillet and to a plate. Leave the sandwich whole, or cut it in half. You can cut it vertically or diagonally. Slice a Ciabatta roll in half lengthwise. You can also try another type of bread roll instead. Layer the ham and cheese on top of the bottom slice. Set the bottom half of the roll down, cut-side-up. Place 2 slices of ham on top of it, followed by 2 slices of Swiss cheese. If you don't like Swiss cheese, you can try another type of cheese, such as Monterey Jack. Prepare the honey-mustard spread. Scoop the mayo into a small cup or bowl. Add the honey, dried mustard, and poppy seeds. Stir everything together with a fork or mini whisk until evenly combined. Spread the honey-mustard over the top roll. Flip the top half of the bread roll over so that the under/cut side is facing you. Use a butter knife to spread the honey-mustard across the roll. Assemble the sandwich. Place the top half of the roll down onto the cheese, with the honey-mustard side facing down. For a fancier sandwich, stir a pinch of poppy seeds into ¼ tablespoon of melted butter, then spread it across the top of your sandwich with a pastry brush. Bake the sandwich, if desired. To turn this into a tasty, gourmet sandwich, preheat your oven to 350°F (175°C). Once the oven reaches the correct temperature, place the sandwich onto a baking sheet and tuck it inside. Bake the sandwich for 15 to 20 minutes. Serve the sandwich. If you baked the sandwich, let it cool for about 3 to 5 minutes before digging in. If you want a fancier presentation, cut the sandwich in half. Stick a fancy, sandwich/cocktail toothpick through the middle of each half. Spread some butter onto your choice of bread. Cut 2 slices of crusty bread, such as French bread. Spread some softened butter over one side of each slice of bread. For a fancier sandwich, try pesto, olive oil, or hummus. You can also use mayo or a thick, creamy salad dressing, such as Ranch, Italian, or Green Goddess. Layer the lettuce on top of the bottom slice. Place the bottom slice down, buttered-side-up. Place 1 to 2 leaves of lettuce on top. If the lettuce leaves are much larger than the sandwich, cut them into halves or thirds first. Some types of lettuce have a very thick stem in the middle. Reduce bulk by cutting this stem out with a sharp knife. Add some spice with onion. Cut a thin slice off of a red onion. Separate the slice into rings. Place as many rings as you want onto the lettuce. You can leave the onion rings off if you want to. Top it off with some tomato slices. Cut off two thick slices of tomato. Stack them on top of the lettuce and onion. A thick, meaty tomato would work the best for this. Add some reasoning, if desired. Add a sprinkle of salt and a dash of pepper on top of the tomato slices. How much you use is entirely up to you! Finish it off with a few slices of cheese. Carefully lay 1 to 2 slices of sharp, white Cheddar on top of the sandwich. Make sure that they are covering the tomatoes entirely. They will keep your sandwich from getting soggy. If you don't like Cheddar, try Swiss, Monterey Jack, or Provolone instead. Place the final slice on top and serve the sandwich. For an extra-fancy touch, slice the sandwich in half diagonally from corner-to-corner. Stick a fancy toothpick or cocktail stick through each sandwich half to hold it together.	Butter two slices of bread. Heat up a skillet over medium heat. Layer the bread and cheese onto the skillet. Add some extras, if desired, then the last slice of bread. Grill the sandwich until it starts to turn a light brown color. Flip the sandwich over and continue grilling it. Serve the sandwich. Slice a Ciabatta roll in half lengthwise. Layer the ham and cheese on top of the bottom slice. Prepare the honey-mustard spread. Spread the honey-mustard over the top roll. Assemble the sandwich. Bake the sandwich, if desired. Serve the sandwich. Spread some butter onto your choice of bread. Layer the lettuce on top of the bottom slice. Add some spice with onion. Top it off with some tomato slices. Add some reasoning, if desired. Finish it off with a few slices of cheese. Place the final slice on top and serve the sandwich.
https://www.wikihow.com/Let-Go-of-a-Failed-Relationship	How to Let Go of a Failed Relationship	It can be emotional when you feel like a relationship has failed, but with some time and support, it will be easier to let go. Recovering after a break up can take a long time, so allow yourself to cry and reflect for as long as you need. If you find yourself missing your ex, remind yourself why the relationship ended, and that it's truly for the best. It's important to stop communicating with your ex during this time, so don't text or call them for a while. Make time to hang out with friends and family, who will remind you of the good things in your life. You could also use your free time to take up a new hobby, like painting, yoga, or hiking.	Give yourself time. It's okay to mourn the end of the relationship. Whether you were together for a few months or you lived together for years and shared pets, you have the right to your complicated emotions. Allow yourself to cry, reflect on the experience, and accept that it's really over. Use this time to reflect. Write down your feelings in a journal and really get in touch with why you're feeling that way. Giving yourself time may help you get over the relationship faster. Some people like to set an "end mourning date." Of course, this doesn't mean that you'll be over the relationship at that point--but it does mean that you'll start making a conscious effort to move on. Let your emotions loose. If you feel like crying in bed all day, go for it. If you want to cry or vent to a friend about all of your frustrations, do that too. Just remember to only do this for as long as you need to, don't rush out into a new relationship in a week just because your ex is or to make them jealous. Remind yourself why the relationship is over. It's natural for you to long for your ex and to wish he/she was still by your side--after all, you're used to having them around, even if it wasn't comforting all of the time. But you have to stay strong and remind yourself why the relationship is over. Though it may hurt, try thinking of a moment when you were deeply unhappy in the relationship. Write it on an index card or save it on your phone and carry it around with you. Look at it whenever you're regretting your decision or wondering why you and your ex aren't together anymore. Learn to recognize negative thought patterns. Bitterness, guilt and regret can make for a debilitating emotional cocktail when you're trying to get over a relationship. You can teach yourself to recognize bitter thought patterns, though, by writing them down and then later examining them to find your emotional triggers. If you can pinpoint the things that set you off running into an emotional swamp, you can learn to walk around it. Read back over your journal as if it belonged to someone else. What is it that seems to set this other person off? What advice would you offer them? What should they avoid? Circle words or phrases that show up repeatedly. When you find yourself thinking of that word or phrase (maybe your ex's name, maybe a particular place or concept) interrupt yourself. Have a mantra or song prepared to recite or listen to as a way of interrupting yourself and rewarding yourself for avoiding that negative thought. Avoid self-destructive behaviors. Taking up smoking just because you're feeling angry about a relationship won't do anything to help you feel better about yourself. Indulging in self-loathing that takes the form of drinking or drugs will only draw out the grief process, because you'll have to start from scratch. If it's a distraction you're looking for, why not make it a healthy alternative? Instead of smoking, try taking up bicycling, art projects, or picking up an old instrument you'd lost touch with. Stop communicating with your ex. Stop texting or calling. Don't try to have an awkward mature lunch with your ex once a week when it's over. Though you may be able to be friends with your ex one day, it needs to be after you've learned to be separate. The potential for damage at this point is great, and communicating with your ex will make it much harder for you to let go of the relationship. If you need to stop hanging out with your mutual friends for a while, do it. If you really want to see them, hang out with them by making special plans. You're not being cowardly by doing this--you're just protecting yourself. Likewise, find new social places to hang out--there are plenty of bars, restaurants, and parks to check out that don't have any emotional baggage. If you run into your ex, you don't have to run in the other direction. Be mature and say hello, but you don't need to stop to have a painful conversation. Stay away from social media for a while. Though you may be tempted to log on to your Facebook to see if there are any pictures of your ex with a new cutie, this will only prolong your pain and may even make you feel a bit obsessive. Even if you're determined not to contact your ex on social media, you won't be able to stop wondering if he saw your latest photos or your latest post. Don't get on social media again until the thought of seeing your ex's photo doesn't make you feel an intense spectrum of emotions. Alternatively, try blocking or "unfriending" your ex. This can be a very tangible way of signaling that the relationship is over. Get rid of things that remind you of your ex. Do a relationship spring cleaning. If you can't bear to throw them out entirely, put them in a garbage bag at the back of your closet. Even if the stuffed animal your ex won for you during your first date at a carnival is your favorite item, throw it in a bag with everything else. If you have a few things that belong to your ex-- sweatshirts, books, electronics--return them immediately. You can have a friend drop them off for you to minimize the pain. Remodel, redecorate, make your place your own. Especially if you had been living together, get rid of old things even if they don't remind you of your ex. Move your furniture around, and add some plants for decoration and peace. Do whatever you have to do to make your space feel new. It's important and healthy to try not to keep too many things from your lives together. Take a mini-vacation. While you can't just pack up all of your things and move to Hawaii the second you break up with your ex--unless you're lucky--visiting relatives or a location you've never been will help make your world a little larger for the time being. This offers necessary perspective and is a good start to enjoying yourself and starting to do things that you want to do. Spend more time with your friends. When you're ready, it'll be fun to catch up, laugh, and get back to having long and intense conversations with your friends. Use your new free time to reconnect with old friends, strike up new acquaintances, or to turn an acquaintance into a friend. Do the things you couldn't do in your relationship. If your partner hated sushi, organize a group lunch at the best place for sushi in your town. If your ex couldn't stand going to live metal shows, get some friends together and head for the mosh pit. Spend time with your family. Especially if you've been preoccupied with your relationship, perhaps you haven't been able to spend as much time around your family as you might like. They'll be on your team and give you a chance to relax, reconnect, and even enjoy some home cooking for a change. Plus, spending time in your hometown might give you a chance to reconnect with childhood friends, old stomping grounds, and enjoy yourself. Find joy in new activities. Instead of doing the same old things that you and your ex used to do, try pursuing a new interest, finding a new hobby, or by getting completely out of your comfort zone. Explore your creative side. Try writing a song, composing a poem, painting or sketching. Express yourself in way you never had before but always hoped to try. Try a new form of exercise. Take that yoga or Zumba class you've always been wanting to try. Not only will exercising make you feel less stressed out and more centered, but you may find a new passion. Do something completely out of your comfort zone. Try a type of food you've never eaten before, go hiking even if you're not outdoorsy, or even go sky diving if you're feeling adventurous. Pick up a new hobby, like knitting, coin collecting, bird watching, or anything else that makes you feel calm and dedicated. Find peace on your own. Though staying busy with a flurry of friends and fun activities is a great way to take your mind on your ex, if you really want to let go of the failed relationship, then you have to be able to be comfortable with yourself. Eventually, you may even relish the opportunity for some solo time. Take walks a few times a week. Connect with nature by exploring local parks or lakes. This is not only great exercise, but the perfect opportunity to reflect. Read. Get lost in a book and spend hours just reading with a cup of tea. Write. Write in your journal, or try working on a short story. See what you can learn about yourself just by writing. Enjoy being single first. Don't try to look around for the next rebound opportunity the second that you break up. Instead, take the time to enjoy being single and doing whatever you want whenever you want it. Many people in relationships would love to be single--at least for a little while--so you should look at it as an adventure instead of as a problem. If someone asks you out before you're ready, don't be afraid to tell them, "It's too soon" especially if you think you might be interested. You'll be doing both of you a favor by not rushing it. If there's something there, it should still be there later when you are ready. Have fun meeting people and flirting. Part of being single is the thrill of serendipity. Who knows who you might run into at the grocery store or the library. Talking to new people is an important step in moving forward. When you're ready, go on a date. Let your friend set you up with a mutual acquaintance or even set up an online dating profile. It's important to take it slow and have fun meeting new people without setting any expectations. Articulate your desires for new relationships and be honest. If anything, what do you wish you might have done differently at the beginning of your last relationship? Here's your chance to start things off on the right foot. Don't be afraid to speak your mind. If any "deal breakers" pop up in the first few dates, don't ignore them just because it feels good to be dating again.	Give yourself time. Let your emotions loose. Remind yourself why the relationship is over. Learn to recognize negative thought patterns. Avoid self-destructive behaviors. Stop communicating with your ex. Stay away from social media for a while. Get rid of things that remind you of your ex. Remodel, redecorate, make your place your own. Take a mini-vacation. Spend more time with your friends. Spend time with your family. Find joy in new activities. Find peace on your own. Enjoy being single first. Have fun meeting people and flirting. When you're ready, go on a date. Articulate your desires for new relationships and be honest.
https://www.wikihow.com/Buy-Movie-Tickets-Online	How to Buy Movie Tickets Online	Before you buy your movie tickets, find a movie theater by opening up an online search engine and typing "movie theaters near me." Once you hit search, select the closest theater and click on the name. When you reach the theater website, click on the movie you want to see, and select the showtime that will let you reach the theater in time. Then, select how many tickets you need and choose your seats. If everything looks correct, enter your credit card information and confirm.	Search for movie theaters online. Go to a search engine and type "movie theaters near me." You can also simply type in the tile of the movie you want to see if you are using Google. Then select the theater of your choice by clicking on the name. After searching nearby theaters there will be a list of your local movie theaters and their locations. On some search engines, there may also be a list of movies that are currently in theaters. If you searched a movie title using Google there will be a list of showtimes for the movie at nearby theaters. You can also go to a third party movie ticket website like Fandango and enter your zip code to find a list of theaters near you. Be wary of third party websites that are unfamiliar to you. Purchasing a ticket from an unauthorized seller may mean your ticket gets refused by the theater. If you aren't sure if a site is authorized to sell the tickets, contact the movie theater before purchasing your tickets. Select a movie. If you aren't sure what movie you want to see, you can click on the title in the movie listings to view IMDB data, trailers, and reviews to help you decide. Find the movie on the list, then you will need to specify which showing you want to see. Select a showtime. Check the list of upcoming times listed below the film. Click on the showing you want. The movie times should all appear as clickable links in your browser. Some theaters use third party sites to handle their online ticket sales. You may be redirected to one of them when you click on the showing time. Be sure to select a showing that will allow you enough time to get to the theater. Most theaters offer discounted matinee showings at times when the theater is not busy. Matinee times can vary depending on your location and the movie, but are usually showings earlier in the day. Consider going to an early movie if you want to save a few dollars. Specify the number of tickets you will need. You will also need to specify how many children, adults or seniors will be with your group because they will generally get lower ticket prices. Typically, child tickets are for children under 11, and senior tickets are for viewers over 60. These age policies may vary at theaters so be sure to check the age policy on the ticket page to be sure. Most theaters also offer discounts for students, however you will have to have your current student identification card and bring it to the theater when you pick up your tickets. Choose your seats. Many theaters now have seats that are labelled with rows and numbers, and sell tickets with assigned seats. This helps make sure everyone in your group will get a spot and can sit together. Enter your payment information. You will usually need a major credit card to purchase your tickets. Type any required personal billing information, the credit card number, expiration date and security code as indicated in the text fields. If you have any gift certificates or vouchers you will be able to enter those apply those on the payment screen as well. Be aware that most theaters charge a convenience fee for allowing you to purchase tickets in advance. This will appear at checkout. Check your order confirmation. A confirmation page will usually appear once your payment has been processed. You will also likely receive a confirmation email. Some movie theaters and ticket websites can even send a text message link to the confirmation to your phone. Print the order confirmation. You can click on the print button on the web page or go to the email and print the information from there. Most movie theaters have a barcode included on the confirmation that can be scanned to verify your purchase. If you had the confirmation sent to your phone, click on the link to pull up the barcode. Bring the confirmation to the movie theater. You will need to show up a few minutes before the show to check-in and get your snacks. Usually you can skip the ticket sales line and bring your confirmation directly to the usher. The usher will scan a barcode on your confirmation and direct you to the location of the theater. Some theaters may have an electronic kiosk that scans your confirmation or allows you to type in the confirmation number and prints your tickets.	Search for movie theaters online. Select a movie. Select a showtime. Specify the number of tickets you will need. Choose your seats. Enter your payment information. Check your order confirmation. Print the order confirmation. Bring the confirmation to the movie theater.
https://www.wikihow.com/Fix-a-Window-Screen	How to Fix a Window Screen	To fix a window screen, start by removing the screen from the window and prying out the window spline with a screwdriver. Then, cut a new screen out of mesh material to fit your frame and place it inside the frame. Lastly, roll a new window spline into the screen to secure the mesh. If you want to repair a small hole or tear, unravel the strands around the cut. Then, use a sewing needle and string to sew the screen back together.	Remove the screen from the window, keeping it inside its frame. Usually, window screens pop out easily, but they can be held in by small clips. Check for clips before you try to remove the screen and, if present, unfasten each one. When you've removed the screen, lay it down on a flat surface. Take out the window spline. A window spline is a rubber or plastic strip that holds the screen in the frame. When replacing your window screen, you will need to remove and replace the spline as well. Use a flathead screwdriver to pry the spline out and, when it's fully removed, throw it away. Replacement splines can be purchased at most hardware or home repair stores. Cut your new screen out of mesh material. Purchase a roll of mesh material from a nearby hardware store, then cut it into a rectangle 1–2 inches (2.5–5.1 cm) larger than your screen. If the new screen is too large, you can always trim it with a utility knife. If you do not need to completely replace your window screen, skip this step. Aluminum mesh is popular because it is sturdier than other screen meshes. Align the mesh screen to the frame. Keep the mesh material straight and taut to ensure an even fit. Use a utility knife to cut the replacement screen to size if it is too large. The material should slightly overlap on each side but not exceed 1–2 inches (2.5–5.1 cm). If you do not need to replace the mesh screen, keep your screen in its frame and continue to the next step. Mesh material will usually curve to one side. Place the mesh in with the curved side down so it is easier to work with. Place a brick or heavy object in the center of the screen. A brick or other heavy object will help give your screen an even amount of slack and tension. Before you place the brick on the screen, place the spline loosely around the corners of your frame and roll the 2 adjacent sides back in. When you place the heavy object on the screen, you'll be able to prevent sagging. Roll the rest of the window spline back into the screen. When you've rolled in all 4 sides, remove the brick or heavy object from the screen. Put the screen back into the window and tighten any existing clips. If your window screen still seems loose, repeat the process again with a lighter or smaller object. Unravel the strands surrounding the hole or tear. To prepare the screen for darning, unravel a few strands from the perimeter of the tear to use as your thread. As you do so, take care to not make the holes and tears any larger than they already are. One or two strands is more than enough. For larger holes or tears, you may not be able to darn it. In this case, you may need to patch the hole. Line up the screen seams neatly. Match the two ends of the screen evenly for a neat and secure seam. There should be little-to-no space gap in the middle. If you cannot line up the two ends without leaving a noticeable hole in the middle, you may need to patch the screen instead of darning it. Weave the strands through the screen with a sewing needle. Once the torn edges are lined up, use a needle to weave the thread through the screen strands. If you don't have strands of screen material available or do not want to risk making the hole bigger, use a heavy-duty, polyester thread. Make the stitches as small and identical as possible. Choose a needle with a large eye that can accommodate the screen strand. If you have sewn the hole or tear and it is still noticeable, cover it with a patch. Finish darning the screen with a securing stitch. A securing stitch will prevent the darn from coming undone. Make a small stitch at the end of the hole or tear, then stitch over it again. At the end of the stitch, make a small knot and pull it tightly to finish the securing stitch. Cut the damaged area into a neat rectangle. Using a sharp knife, cut a clean hole around the screen tear to remove all irregularities. Make this new hole as small as possible to keep the repair simple. If the damaged area is already rectangular, trim the sides to make it even. If the damage takes up more than a quarter of the window screen, you may need to replace the entire screen. Leave at least ⁄ 2 –1 inch (1.3–2.5 cm) of screen material between the hole and the window frame. The closer a hole is to a frame, the harder it is to repair. Cut a piece of patch screen material for the damaged area. The new patch should be at least 1 inch (2.5 cm) larger than the rectangular hole. Any smaller and your patch may not securely cover the hole. Measure the patch before you cut to make sure you cut the right length. Loosen the weaving around the opening and the patch. Slack ends around the openings will help the patch adhere to the damaged screen. Bend each end on the sides of the patch at a 90-degree angle to help it lock into the screen. Keep the ends of the opening flat. Weave the patch's ends through the screen. Work the bent ends of the patch through the open screen's weaving. When they're locked in, bend the wires of the patch flat on the other side of the screen to hold the patch in place. Some patches have an adhesive backing while others do not. If yours does not, secure the patch with a clear, waterproof silicone glue.	Remove the screen from the window, keeping it inside its frame. Take out the window spline. Cut your new screen out of mesh material. Align the mesh screen to the frame. Place a brick or heavy object in the center of the screen. Roll the rest of the window spline back into the screen. Unravel the strands surrounding the hole or tear. Line up the screen seams neatly. Weave the strands through the screen with a sewing needle. Finish darning the screen with a securing stitch. Cut the damaged area into a neat rectangle. Cut a piece of patch screen material for the damaged area. Loosen the weaving around the opening and the patch. Weave the patch's ends through the screen.
https://www.wikihow.com/Serve-Cabernet-Sauvignon	How to Serve Cabernet Sauvignon	To serve cabernet sauvignon, start by chilling the bottle in the fridge for 20 minutes or in an ice bucket for 5 minutes so it's between 63 and 65 degrees Fahrenheit, which is the perfect temperature for cabernet sauvignon. Then, uncork the bottle and let it sit for 1 hour to aerate it, or pour it into a wine decanter so it aerates faster. Next, when you're ready to serve the wine, pour it into a wine glass with a large, round bowl and a wide rim. As you're drinking the wine, hold the glass by the stem so you don't warm the wine with your hands.	Choose your desired wine. When choosing a Cabernet Sauvignon, remember the phrase "old before young." You will find with age, the characteristics of the wine have mellowed and smoothed. Younger wines are generally sharper and may overpower foods they are meant to compliment. Cool the bottle at a temperature range of 63 degrees Fahrenheit (17.2 degrees Celsius) to 65 degrees Fahrenheit (18.3 degrees Celsius). Many people make the mistake of either over chilling a Cabernet Sauvignon or letting it stand at room temperature. Room temperature is a proper term to use when referring to the serving temperature of a Cabernet Sauvignon, however there is a stark difference between room temperature in Florida and room temperature in Iceland. A good guide to reaching the proper serving temperature for a Cabernet Sauvignon is to place the bottle in the refrigerator for 20 minutes or in an ice bucket for 5 minutes. Properly aerate the wine. Aerating, or airing, the wine is the best way to open it up to its full flavor. This is the process of letting the air blend with the wine, which reduces the high carbon dioxide levels that may be present. It also removes the accompanying odor that can mask the true aroma. Uncork the bottle and let it sit open for an hour. Pour the wine into a wine decanter. The wider opening of a decanter allows aerating to occur faster. A decanter is a container that is used to hold the wine after it has been decanted. Decanters are normally used as serving vessels for wine. Decant the wine. Decanting is the process of separating sediment from the wine. Contrary to popular belief, sediment does not always indicate a wine has gone bad. Sediment in red wine is created over time by the breakdown of pigments and tannin within the wine. As time matures the wine, small amounts of these 2 compounds gradually settle at the bottom of the bottle. Leave the wine bottle in an upright position for 24 to 36 hours prior to decanting. As much as 1 inch (2.5 cm) to 1.5 inches (3.8 cm) of the bottle of wine may not be consumed due to sediment, depending on the age of the wine and the grapes used. Choose the proper glass. Bolder, more full-bodied and complex wines like the Cabernet Sauvignon benefit from a wine glass that is large, round and has a wide rim. Hold the wine glass by its stem. This prevents the wine from warming due to the temperature of your hands. Warming a wine above its desired serving temperature will yield unwanted and unpleasant characteristics within the wine. The alcohol in wine will give a sharpness to the taste if the wine is served above its optimal temperature. Pour the wine. Use a wine funnel with a filter. This helps with the aerating process and filters out the sediment from the Cabernet Sauvignon. Stop pouring the wine at the widest part of the glass. This allows for optimal aeration and you can swirl the wine without spilling it.	Choose your desired wine. Cool the bottle at a temperature range of 63 degrees Fahrenheit (17.2 degrees Celsius) to 65 degrees Fahrenheit (18.3 degrees Celsius). Properly aerate the wine. Decant the wine. Choose the proper glass. Pour the wine.
https://www.wikihow.com/Find-a-DJ-Name-That-Isn%27t-Taken	How to Find a DJ Name That Isn't Taken	To find a DJ name that isn't taken, start by coming up with a few different name ideas that are as unique as possible. You can come up with unique name ideas by modifying your real name, or you can reference something that's important to you, like your favorite book or your hometown. Then, search for each name online to see if someone is already using it. You can do a basic search engine query, as well as look up the name on social media and on a trademark database. There are also free name-finding websites you can use.	Run a simple search engine query. By far the quickest, most direct way to see if a DJ name is taken is to do a thorough search on your search engine of choice. If another DJ has already chosen your name, his or her website or social media page will usually be included in the results. Keep in mind, however, that obscure artists may not appear on the very first page. Remember that the absence of evidence is not the evidence of absence. While seeing another DJ pop up in the search results can be a strong hint that the name you've chosen is already taken, not seeing another DJ isn't necessarily proof that the name isn't taken. For definitive proof, it's best to couple your initial search with one of the other methods below. Use a name-finder utility. One way to check whether a certain name has been taken is to use an online name-finding site. These sites usually check large databases of site listings to tell whether the domain name you input has already been registered. Best of all, many of the best name-finders are 100% free. Note again, however, that just because someone hasn't already purchased a website that uses your stage name in its address doesn't mean that no DJ has already taken your name — someone using your name may just not have a strong online presence. Use a social network search utility. In the modern world, even the smallest bands and musical artists often have pages on social network sites like Facebook. Searching popular social networks for usernames or pages that match your DJ name is one great way to check whether it's been taken. Since the most popular social networks are free to join, you have a good chance of uncovering even the most obscure artists this way. While Facebook is the most popular social network site on the planet, it's far from the only one. Thus, you'll save lots of time by using one of several online utilities that instantly search multiple social network sites (like namechk.com) rather than searching each individually. Search a trademark database. Musical artists' names can legally be trademarked by their owners — this includes names like R.E.M., which have alternate meanings, names like Paul McCartney, which are simply the artist's actual name, and, of course, DJ names. Thus, searching a trademark database is one fairly definitive way of determining whether a name is already taken. If you can find a trademark registered for the DJ name you've chosen, this means that someone else has already taken your name and has legal grounds to force you to change yours if there's a likelihood you may be confused as artists. Some trademark databases are free to search, while others may cost a small fee. For a fairly definitive list of trademark databases, consult uspto.gov, the official site of the US Patent and Trademark Office. Understand the legal protections trademark holders have. If you find out that the DJ name you want for yourself has already been trademarked, you may be out of luck. Trademark owners have a legal claim to their trademark, especially in cases where you are likely to be confused with the trademark holder (like, for instance, if you are both active musicians in the same geographical area). This risk increases if your logo, font choices, and aesthetic direction seems to match or imitate the trademark holder's. Musical artists can (and have) sued rivals who were unwilling to cooperate with a name change. Luckily, there are ways around this sort of trademark infringement. The most direct is simply to change your DJ name. You may also be "off the hook" if you can prove that you don't directly compete with the trademark holder — for instance, if you're only well-known in New York State and the copyright holder is only well-known in Florida, you may not need to change your name until one of you begins touring and promoting your act on the other's home turf. Keep things short and sweet. Try to think of famous DJs with names that contain more than four syllables. If you can think of any, there are probably only one or two in your mind. Most DJs don't have especially long names, and with good reason — the longer your stage name is, the harder it is for people to remember and the less likely it is that it will sound "catchy". For example, imagine that a new DJ who specializes in spinning diss tracks wants to call himself "Diss-establishmentarianism". While the "diss" pun is amusing, this name will have a hard time catching on — if the DJ's fans have a hard time remembering his name (let alone pronouncing it), his word-of-mouth potential is seriously limited. Pick something timeless. Don't name yourself after a passing trend, a sub-genre of electronica that may not be popular in a few years, or anything else that doesn't have long-term appeal. These sorts of names immediately date you and make it harder to capture new listeners' attentions after your name loses significance. Instead, pick a name that has lasting relevance — something that won't sound silly a few months or a few years down the road. For example, imagine that an up-and-coming DJ named himself "DJ Harlem Shaker" during the height of the meme's popularity in February 2013. This a bad move — within just a few months, the meme's popularity had faded dramatically, so this DJ's name would probably sound hackneyed. Consider the aural effect your name creates. Ideally, the syllables in your DJ name should complement each other and produce the effect you want to convey when spoken. Some names sound smooth and pleasing, while others sound cold and sinister — depending on the type of music you play, you may want to choose to use softer or harsher sounds in your name. For example, words with g's, k's, z's, t's and hard c's tend to be hard and edgy and are considered cacophonous, or phonetically unpleasant. In contrast, words with many l's, w's, long o's, y's, s's, and soft c's tend to sound soft and fluid and are considered euphonious, or phonetically beautiful. A DJ might want to go with either of these styles, so choose your own sounds accordingly to make the name appropriately gritty for your persona. Make sure your name passes the radio test. In radio broadcasting, the names of people, places, and events that are being promoted on-air should ideally pass something called the "radio test". This isn't as complicated as it sounds — the radio test is just a simple way of telling whether your name will be intelligible to listeners who can only hear it spoken — not written out. Generally, the more complex your DJ name is, the harder it will be for people to understand on the radio. A name that passes the radio test should be easy to understand just from the way it sounds while spoken. It shouldn't be hard for the announcer or the listener to pronounce or spell — remember, people who will be hearing your DJ name on air may not have ever heard of you before. For instance, imagine that there's a DJ named "DotComrad3." This name would have a hard time passing the radio test. Someone reading it on-air might have to say something like, "If you liked the song you just heard, check out the artist's website — www.Dotc0mrad3.com. That's w, w, w, dot (as in a period), "Dot" (as in the word "dot"), c, zero (not o), m, r, a, d, 3 (not e)." This is a serious mouthful for the radio announcer to get through — if he doesn't make a mistake, there's a good chance many of the listeners will. Consider logo/artistic design when picking a name. If you're looking to make a career out of your DJing skills, you may want to consider a potential name's aesthetic qualities before making a final decision. Some names naturally lend themselves to good-looking logos and on-stage designs, while others may require you to do a little more work to pick visual components that "fit". There's no right or wrong answer here — this is just a question of how far you're willing to go in service of your image as a DJ. For example, a DJ who calls herself "White Tiger" might naturally want to use lots of tiger imagery in her on-stage show. She might, for instance, wear a tiger mask on stage while she spins her music. If she has access to a projector, she might even project psychedelic tiger designs onto herself during her show. On the other hand, a DJ with a name like "DJ Palindrome" has a logo that practically designs itself. Since palindromes are words that are spelled the same way forwards and backwards, DJ Palindrome's logo might look like this: PalindromemordnilaP — basically, as if it's reflected in a mirror. Decide whether or not to include “DJ” in your name. This is the age-old question that every DJ has to face at one point or another: whether or not to include "DJ" in his or her name. There's no right or wrong answer here — many of the modern world's most famous DJs (like Tiesto, etc.) have decided to forego the "DJ" prefix, while many others choose to keep it. It's up to you! In general, including the "DJ" may give a slightly more "old-fashioned" or "classic" flavor to your image because of the tendency of old-school hip-hop DJs to include "DJ" in their stage names (see: DJ ). This is by no means universal, however, so try to consider each name on a case-by-case basis. Use a musical reference. One old standby for any musician's name is to make a reference to a musical concept or piece of terminology. Some of the most famous artists of all time have used this well-worn trick (see: The Beat les, The Moody Blues , etc.). Ideally, if you do this, you might want to make reference to musical terms that are likely to be understood by a wide audience — for instance, while almost everyone knows what a "beat" is, not everyone will know what the term "syncopation" means. Below are just a few ideas for the types of words you may want to incorporate into your name: Musical terminology (beat, note, tempo, chord, song, symphony, etc.) Music genres (rock, disco, techno, etc.) Specific songs or bands (for example, Radiohead, Phoenix, and The Rolling Stones are all named after other bands' songs). Modify your own name. Some musical artists, including DJs, choose to simply use their real name as their stage name. Others, however, modify their name in a way that makes it catchy or memorable. Some even choose to change their name in a way that makes it a pun or play on words — your ability to do this, obviously, depends on what your actual name is. For example, M.I.A, the Sri Lankan rapper with international hits like "Paper Planes", uses a name that is a play on her own (Maya), as well as a reference to the abbreviation for the term "Missing in Action". Another well known example is Eminem — this name is a reference to the artist's initials (MM, for Marshall Mathers) as well as the phonetic pronunciation of his old stage name (M&M). Include ideas that are important to you. If there are certain things, places, people, or ideas in your life that are extremely important to you, consider referencing them (or just outright including them) in your DJ name. There are a huge range of possible topics to draw from that range from silly to grim — whatever is important to you in life is fair game. Below are just a few ideas of the sorts of things you may want to consider using in your name: Religious references (see: Matisyahu) Political references (see: Rage Against the Machine) Literary references (see: Modest Mouse, As I Lay Dying) References to specific people or places (see: Lynyrd Skynyrd) Be familiar with the world’s most famous DJs. Sometimes, it's easiest to come up with a good name simply by studying other people's name. However, when you're trying to get inspiration from the names of great DJs, remember that your ultimate goal is to stand out from the pack — not blend into it. Just a few of the most influential DJs and beatmakers ever from the worlds of dance music and hip hop are listed below — there are many, many more: DJ Shadow Tiesto Belleville 3 A-Trak Grandmaster Flash Diplo Jam Master Jay Deadmau5	Run a simple search engine query. Use a name-finder utility. Use a social network search utility. Search a trademark database. Understand the legal protections trademark holders have. Keep things short and sweet. Pick something timeless. Consider the aural effect your name creates. Make sure your name passes the radio test. Consider logo/artistic design when picking a name. Decide whether or not to include “DJ” in your name. Use a musical reference. Modify your own name. Include ideas that are important to you. Be familiar with the world’s most famous DJs.
https://www.wikihow.com/Clean-Dreadlocks	How to Clean Dreadlocks	Before washing your dreadlocks, wet them with water in the shower and put a modest amount of shampoo on your hand. Then, rub your hands together before rubbing the shampoo into your scalp and the roots of your dreadlocks. Once the shampoo has been in your hair for 2 minutes, tilt your head down so it runs through your locks as the water rinses it out. After you get out of the shower, squeeze each lock to get rid of excess water and dry your hair thoroughly.	Wet your dreadlocks. Start by running some water lightly over your dreadlocks in the shower. There's no need to completely saturate them, as the more water your locks absorb, the harder it will be for the shampoo to infiltrate them. For best results, use warm (not too hot) water. Portion out a small amount of shampoo. Squeeze a modest amount of shampoo into your palm. It's better to use a little shampoo at a time so you can control how much soap actually goes into your locks—you can always use more later if it's not enough. If you're using a solid bar shampoo, rub it between your hands until it forms a rich lather. Always use a shampoo that doesn't leave a residue of any kind. Dreadlocks should not be maintained using gels, waxes and other additives, and a residue-forming shampoo will likewise only add to buildup rather than washing it away. Look for natural, organic types of shampoo that are free of chemicals which help soften and style. Work the lather into your scalp. Press both hands into your scalp and distribute the shampoo into the spaces between the roots of the dreadlocks. Use the tips of your fingers to give your scalp a good scrub to free dead skin and remove excess sebum. Don't neglect to clean and care for the roots. Since this is where your dreadlocks attach, they need to be strong and healthy. Rinse the shampoo through the locks. Let the shampoo sit for 1-2 minutes. Then, tilt your head downward so that the lather runs through your locks as you rinse. Gently squeeze the shampoo lather into the dreadlocks. Make sure that there's no shampoo residue remaining in your hair when you're finished washing. If you want, you can use a little extra shampoo to touch up each lock individually. Just don't overdo it, or it will be more time-consuming to rinse and cause loose hairs to frizz. Dry thoroughly. After you get out of the shower, you'll want to make sure that you let your dreadlocks dry completely. Squeeze each lock with a towel to press out the water absorbed into them. Allow your locks to air dry, or use a hair dryer on a low heat setting to speed the process along and ensure that they're not left damp. If too much moisture remains in the locks, they can start to come unlocked and smell, or even grow mold. ”Dread rot” is when moisture becomes trapped in the matted hair for so long that it begins to mildew. As your dreadlocks continue to set up and tighten, you may have to start using a hair dryer more often after washing to ensure that the hair inside the locks is getting dry. DO NOT mix together the baking soda and vinegar. Baking soda is a base and vinegar is an acid, mixing the two causes a chemical reaction which neutralizes any cleansing power the two substances have on their own (which is a lot). In a sink or wash basin, dissolve ¾ cup of baking soda in a few inches of warm water. It is completely safe to use on your hair and scalp. If you like using essential oils, you can add them to the cleansing solution during this step. A tablespoon of lemon juice will help kill any odors and prevent mildew. It is recommended that you only use this method to clean your locks once every couple of weeks, as the baking soda can make your hair dry and brittle over time. For more regular washings, use a residue-free shampoo. Soak your dreadlocks for 5-10 minutes. Submerge your dreadlocks into the baking soda solution up to the roots. Soak your locks for up to 10 minutes, or longer if you're in need of a deep clean. As your dreadlocks soak, the baking soda will strip away dirt, oil, debris and other unwanted buildup. If you don't have the time or space needed to soak your dreadlocks, you can mix up the solution and pour it directly over your head for a quick cleanse. Rinse with cool water. Remove your dreadlocks from the baking soda bath and wring out the excess solution. Turn on the faucet or hop in the shower and give your locks a quick rinse to clear away any lingering traces of the baking soda solution or foreign matter. Rinse until the water runs clear. Be sure that your scalp gets some direct exposure to the water as well. The dirt, oil, dead skin and other detritus that's been removed from your hair will be visible in the discoloration of the water. You might be surprised how much cleaner your locks will feel afterwards! Have ready a large bottle of water and vinegar, mixed at a 3:1 ratio, enough to rinse over your scalp and lightly through your dreads. Pour this through your locks after rinsing out the baking soda solution. This will neutralize any remaining baking soda, balance the pH of your scalp, and smooth loose hair frizz. You can leave this in (any vinegar smell will dissipate as it dries) or rinse it out. Towel or air dry. Give your dreadlocks ample time to dry. If you're in a hurry, use a hair dryer on the ends and shafts of your locks and allow your roots to finish air drying. Your dreadlocks should be dry before you cover them with a hat, tam or scarf. Otherwise, these items will trap remaining moisture in the locks and make it harder for it to escape. Squeeze as much water out of your locks as you can before letting them air dry or trying other drying methods. Wrapping your dreadlocks in a dry towel can help draw water out of them at a faster rate. Wash your dreadlocks regularly. Contrary to popular misconceptions, dreadlocks require washing just as much as other hairstyles. You should aim to shampoo and roll your dreadlocks every three or four days when they're new. Once they've fully locked up, you can get by washing them once a week, or more often depending on your hair type and the amount of oil your scalp tends to produce. Most people who wear dreadlocks wash them at least once a week. If you have particularly oily hair, or if you exercise, work outside, get dirty or sweat a lot, you may benefit from more frequent washings. You can still bathe regularly between washings without having to shampoo your locks. Take care of your scalp. Dreadlocks put a lot of weight on the scalp as they get heavier and pull. It's essential that you keep your scalp clean and moisturized in addition to your locks themselves. Whenever you're cleaning your locks, take a few moments to massage your scalp vigorously with your fingertips. This promotes proper blood flow and will strengthen the follicles, meaning you won't have to worry about your locks becoming brittle or falling out. Itching and discomfort can be a sign that your scalp or roots are in poor condition. As your hair grows, keep your dreadlocks waxed and twisted to tighten up the new growth close to the scalp. Freshen your locks with essential oils. Use a couple drops of tea tree, peppermint or rosemary oil along with your shampoo, or treat your locks with them separately. Essential oils moisturize, cut down on itchiness and irritation around the scalp and leave your hair smelling pleasant. They are far preferable to perfumes, spray-in fragrances and scented cleansers, as they won't damage your locks or leave behind any residue. Just a hint of essential oils can combat the “dirty hair” smell that naturally accumulates on thick dreadlocks. Avoid conditioners and similar products. Conditioners are designed to soften and detangle hair, which is the last thing you want if you have a head full of dreads. In general, there should be no reason to condition your dreadlocks. You should also be cautious about any other products that contain oils, waxes or knot-fighting agents. Regular use of these products can damage the structure of your dreadlocks and make them much harder to maintain. A good residue-free shampoo, and optionally pure aloe gel and salt-water tightening spray should be all you need to keep your dreadlocks clean and looking great. For dry scalp or dreads, very light applications of coconut oil will help moisturize without conditioning.	Wet your dreadlocks. Portion out a small amount of shampoo. Work the lather into your scalp. Rinse the shampoo through the locks. Dry thoroughly. DO NOT mix together the baking soda and vinegar. In a sink or wash basin, dissolve ¾ cup of baking soda in a few inches of warm water. Soak your dreadlocks for 5-10 minutes. Rinse with cool water. Have ready a large bottle of water and vinegar, mixed at a 3:1 ratio, enough to rinse over your scalp and lightly through your dreads. Towel or air dry. Wash your dreadlocks regularly. Take care of your scalp. Freshen your locks with essential oils. Avoid conditioners and similar products.