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Keep It Clean
Fertilizer Application: How and When
When you have planted a new yard, with new sod and plants, use fertilizer as advised by the grower. But when sod and plants have been established (usually after a month or two), you can start using low phosphorus fertilizer. How can you tell which fertilizer you should use? Look for the middle number on the bag. It should be 2 or lower.

Use slow-release fertilizers. Instead of putting nutrients all at once in the soil, this kind of fertilizer releases small quantities over a period in time. Plants will absorb more minerals and nutrients in a gradual feeding process.

Fertilizers are often overused. More is not better! Overfertilization can lead to excess growth and pest problems. Overfertilization is also a waste of time, labor and money. Finally, overfertilization also contributes to pollution through stormwater runoff and leaching.

You usually only need to apply fertilizer once or twice per year, especially when you use slow-release fertilizer. Never apply fertilizer when you expect heavy rainfall. Why? Most fertilizer will be flushed away, and that's money and pollution down the drain. Be sure to apply fertilizer evenly and avoid overlapping. Clean up any spills. Put a plastic bag or tarp on the ground where you pour out the fertilizer, so any spills can be caught and used.

Except near a protective seawall, always leave a "ring of responsibility" around or along the edges of canals, lakes or other waterways. This is an untreated buffer zone that protects water quality in waterways. The buffer zone helps to ensure that fertilizers and other lawn chemicals do not come into direct contact with the water or with any structure bordering the water, such as a sidewalk, brick border, driveway, or street.

When applying liquid fertilizers, the "ring of responsibility" should be at least 3 feet from the edge of the water. The same is true for applying granular fertilizers with a fertilizer spreader that features a deflector shield. A deflector shield only allows fertilizer to be distributed on one side. This half-circle application (instead of the typical full-circle application of most fertilizer spreaders) allows for more accurate fertilizer application. If you are applying fertilizer without a deflector shield, the "ring of responsibility" should extend at least 10 feet from the edge of the water.

Model Ordinance for Florida-Friendly Fertilizer Use on Urban Landscapes [PDF]
This is intended to reduce sources of nutrients coming from urban landscapes to reduce the impact of nutrients on Florida's surface and ground waters. Florida Statue 403.9337 requires adoption of the fertilizer ordinance if the locality is within the watershed of an impaired waterbody; elsewhere, its adoption is strongly encouraged.



Controlling Landscape Pests
A pest, by definition, is any unwanted organism. In garden, landscape or lawn management, certain insects, animals, bacteria, fungi, viruses and weeds may all be considered pests. Some pests are good to have in the garden, because they are part of the composting process and bring nutrients in the soil. Other pests can be destructive, especially when there are too many of them.

GROUPS OF PESTS

Ornamental pests may be divided into five groups, based on how they damage plants:

Insects with piercing or sucking mouthparts
These insects have straw-like mouthparts, which pierce the plant tissue and suck out plant fluids. Examples: Scales, aphids, whiteflies, mealy bugs, thrips, lace bugs, spittlebugs.

Spider mites
These pests are not insects but are closely related to spiders and scorpions. They suck plant fluids with their piercing-sucking mouthparts.

Foliage-feeding insects
They may feed on leaves, flowers or plant roots. Examples: Caterpillars, beetles, grasshoppers, katydids.

Leaf miners
These are very small larvae of flies, beetles or moths that tunnel between upper and lower leaf surfaces. Examples: Blotch leaf miners, serpentine leaf miners.

Borers
Many species of insects bore into the twigs or trunks of plants and trees. These are usually the larvae of moths or beetles. Examples: Pine bark beetles, sea-grape borer, carpenter worm, dogwood borer.


MANAGING PESTS

Integrated Pest Management (IPM) is a decision-making process that uses cultural, biological and chemical practices to manage pests in a way that minimizes risks to human health, society and the environment. read more about each of these three types of integrated practices below.



CULTURAL PRACTICES

Cultural practices are the ways in which you establish and manage your landscape to prevent pests or disease from harming your landscape. These practices include properly preparing the soil as well as proper mowing, pruning, fertilization and irrigation. Each is important in maintaining healthy plants. Plants that are old, sick or dying are more susceptible to pests. Insects are only one of many potential causes for unhealthy-looking plants. Diseases, nematodes, drought, nutritional disorders and improper chemical applications can also be damaging.

Correctly identifying landscape problems can save money and prevent unnecessary chemical use. Examine plants weekly in the spring, summer and fall. Look for pests under a few leaves and the along stems or branches of each plant.

Several options exist for managing pests without using pesticides. These include manually removing or hosing pests from plants with water and then destroying the pests. Removing infested plants or pruning plant parts and then burning or throwing them away reduces the chance of pests moving among plants.

Any mechanical or cultural method that prevents or removes pests from plants should be attempted before using a pesticide. Buying or using plants that are naturally resistant or tolerant to certain pests greatly reduces the need for control efforts.



BIOLOGICAL CONTROLS

Pests in their native areas are usually managed by natural predators and parasites that help keep populations at a constant level. Problems occur when pests, but not their natural enemies, are introduced into new areas, and the pest populations increase unchecked. Biological pest control involves using the plant's natural enemies to reduce pest populations. A minimum level of the target pest will always be present. This low pest population is necessary for the biological control agent to have a continual food source after the target pest has been reduced to an acceptable level. Homeowners must be willing to accept minor levels of pest pressure. Biological controls are not the answer to all pest problems, but they may be a useful component in an effective Integrated Pest Management (IPM) program.



CHEMICAL CONTROLS

Not all pest problems can be solved by manipulating cultural practices in the plant environment or by using biological control agents. In these cases, pesticides become the second or third line of defense. The pest must be properly identified and monitored with reliable techniques to establish acceptable levels in your landscape. Optimum control of many insects and weeds is achieved at a particular stage in its life cycle, which is usually during the early stages of development. For example, mole crickets are most susceptible to chemical control when they are small, usually during the months of May or June. Chemical applications at other times are less effective.

If use of a pesticide is necessary, select the one that is most effective but least toxic to non-target organisms or least persistent in the environment, whichever is more important in that location. Read the label completely and thoroughly. Spot treat, if possible, instead of applying blanket or wall-to-wall treatments.



Control Litter
Lawns and gardens may be the most obvious source of excess nutrients and other pollutants, but other daily activities in and outside our homes and businesses can also have an impact. Tips to minimize the impact of litter follow:

Don't throw cigarette butts or other trash on the street. They will be washed down stormwater drains and end up in lakes, ponds, canals and even the Everglades, where they can harm fish and birds.

Regularly sweeping the driveway assures there is less chance that sand and debris collected on your driveway can get into stormwater drains. Check your cars regularly for spills/leakage of oils and coolant. Clean up spills with old rags, and dispose of them properly.

Around the House
Use Water Wisely
We use and need to dispose of a vast quantities of water in and around the house. If your home or business is connected to a central sewer system, wastewater from your shower, toilet, dishes and laundry is sent to a regional wastewater treatment plant. If not, you likely have a septic tank in your yard.

Older or improperly maintained sewage and septic systems can leak. These kinds of leaks can contaminate interconnected water systems. Systems at risk range from individual yards and neighborhood or community lakes or waterways to the regional systems that flow eventually into wetlands, aquifers and the oceans, bays and estuaries surrounding Florida.

Water supplies are finite. That means that the overall quantity of water on the planet never really changes, but its location, cost to obtain and quality do change. When more people need access to that supply, the share per person gets smaller. People are drawing from the same sources that wildlife and wild places depend on. And as the way we use water and land adds pollutants, or increasing demands force us to draw from less easily found water sources, the costs of water increase.

Conserving water can lessen the load on sewer and septic systems, help protect the environment and make existing freshwater supplies last longer.

EPA WaterSense
The South Florida Water Management District is partnering with the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) to bring to you WaterSense, a national program that offers a simple way to choose appliances and other products that use less water – and perform as well or better than your existing products.



Building/Remodeling
In Florida, most structures must be elevated to avoid flooding, because Florida is so flat that rainfall can quickly accumulate. Elevated foundations or house pads usually require sand, rock or other materials. Some properties require other types of fill (soil, shell rock, silt) to raise the property's overall elevation. That's why building or remodeling may require a truckload of sand or other fill materials. The temporary result: a small mountain sitting somewhere on your property!

Keep It Clean

Fertilizer Application: How and When

When you have planted a new yard, with new sod and plants, use fertilizer as advised by the grower. But when sod and plants have been established (usually after a month or two), you can start using low phosphorus fertilizer. How can you tell which fertilizer you should use? Look for the middle number on the bag. It should be 2 or lower.

Use slow-release fertilizers. Instead of putting nutrients all at once in the soil, this kind of fertilizer releases small quantities over a period in time. Plants will absorb more minerals and nutrients in a gradual feeding process.

Fertilizers are often overused. More is not better! Overfertilization can lead to excess growth and pest problems. Overfertilization is also a waste of time, labor and money. Finally, overfertilization also contributes to pollution through stormwater runoff and leaching.

You usually only need to apply fertilizer once or twice per year, especially when you use slow-release fertilizer. Never apply fertilizer when you expect heavy rainfall. Why? Most fertilizer will be flushed away, and that's money and pollution down the drain. Be sure to apply fertilizer evenly and avoid overlapping. Clean up any spills. Put a plastic bag or tarp on the ground where you pour out the fertilizer, so any spills can be caught and used.

Except near a protective seawall, always leave a "ring of responsibility" around or along the edges of canals, lakes or other waterways. This is an untreated buffer zone that protects water quality in waterways. The buffer zone helps to ensure that fertilizers and other lawn chemicals do not come into direct contact with the water or with any structure bordering the water, such as a sidewalk, brick border, driveway, or street.

When applying liquid fertilizers, the "ring of responsibility" should be at least 3 feet from the edge of the water. The same is true for applying granular fertilizers with a fertilizer spreader that features a deflector shield. A deflector shield only allows fertilizer to be distributed on one side. This half-circle application (instead of the typical full-circle application of most fertilizer spreaders) allows for more accurate fertilizer application. If you are applying fertilizer without a deflector shield, the "ring of responsibility" should extend at least 10 feet from the edge of the water.

Model Ordinance for Florida-Friendly Fertilizer Use on Urban Landscapes [PDF]

This is intended to reduce sources of nutrients coming from urban landscapes to reduce the impact of nutrients on Florida's surface and ground waters. Florida Statue 403.9337 requires adoption of the fertilizer ordinance if the locality is within the watershed of an impaired waterbody; elsewhere, its adoption is strongly encouraged.

Controlling Landscape Pests

A pest, by definition, is any unwanted organism. In garden, landscape or lawn management, certain insects, animals, bacteria, fungi, viruses and weeds may all be considered pests. Some pests are good to have in the garden, because they are part of the composting process and bring nutrients in the soil. Other pests can be destructive, especially when there are too many of them.

GROUPS OF PESTS

Ornamental pests may be divided into five groups, based on how they damage plants:

Insects with piercing or sucking mouthparts

These insects have straw-like mouthparts, which pierce the plant tissue and suck out plant fluids. Examples: Scales, aphids, whiteflies, mealy bugs, thrips, lace bugs, spittlebugs.

Spider mites

These pests are not insects but are closely related to spiders and scorpions. They suck plant fluids with their piercing-sucking mouthparts.

Foliage-feeding insects

They may feed on leaves, flowers or plant roots. Examples: Caterpillars, beetles, grasshoppers, katydids.

Leaf miners

These are very small larvae of flies, beetles or moths that tunnel between upper and lower leaf surfaces. Examples: Blotch leaf miners, serpentine leaf miners.

Borers

Many species of insects bore into the twigs or trunks of plants and trees. These are usually the larvae of moths or beetles. Examples: Pine bark beetles, sea-grape borer, carpenter worm, dogwood borer.

MANAGING PESTS

Integrated Pest Management (IPM) is a decision-making process that uses cultural, biological and chemical practices to manage pests in a way that minimizes risks to human health, society and the environment. read more about each of these three types of integrated practices below.

CULTURAL PRACTICES

Cultural practices are the ways in which you establish and manage your landscape to prevent pests or disease from harming your landscape. These practices include properly preparing the soil as well as proper mowing, pruning, fertilization and irrigation. Each is important in maintaining healthy plants. Plants that are old, sick or dying are more susceptible to pests. Insects are only one of many potential causes for unhealthy-looking plants. Diseases, nematodes, drought, nutritional disorders and improper chemical applications can also be damaging.

Correctly identifying landscape problems can save money and prevent unnecessary chemical use. Examine plants weekly in the spring, summer and fall. Look for pests under a few leaves and the along stems or branches of each plant.

Several options exist for managing pests without using pesticides. These include manually removing or hosing pests from plants with water and then destroying the pests. Removing infested plants or pruning plant parts and then burning or throwing them away reduces the chance of pests moving among plants.

Any mechanical or cultural method that prevents or removes pests from plants should be attempted before using a pesticide. Buying or using plants that are naturally resistant or tolerant to certain pests greatly reduces the need for control efforts.

BIOLOGICAL CONTROLS

Pests in their native areas are usually managed by natural predators and parasites that help keep populations at a constant level. Problems occur when pests, but not their natural enemies, are introduced into new areas, and the pest populations increase unchecked. Biological pest control involves using the plant's natural enemies to reduce pest populations. A minimum level of the target pest will always be present. This low pest population is necessary for the biological control agent to have a continual food source after the target pest has been reduced to an acceptable level. Homeowners must be willing to accept minor levels of pest pressure. Biological controls are not the answer to all pest problems, but they may be a useful component in an effective Integrated Pest Management (IPM) program.

CHEMICAL CONTROLS

Not all pest problems can be solved by manipulating cultural practices in the plant environment or by using biological control agents. In these cases, pesticides become the second or third line of defense. The pest must be properly identified and monitored with reliable techniques to establish acceptable levels in your landscape. Optimum control of many insects and weeds is achieved at a particular stage in its life cycle, which is usually during the early stages of development. For example, mole crickets are most susceptible to chemical control when they are small, usually during the months of May or June. Chemical applications at other times are less effective.

If use of a pesticide is necessary, select the one that is most effective but least toxic to non-target organisms or least persistent in the environment, whichever is more important in that location. Read the label completely and thoroughly. Spot treat, if possible, instead of applying blanket or wall-to-wall treatments.

Control Litter

Lawns and gardens may be the most obvious source of excess nutrients and other pollutants, but other daily activities in and outside our homes and businesses can also have an impact. Tips to minimize the impact of litter follow:

Don't throw cigarette butts or other trash on the street. They will be washed down stormwater drains and end up in lakes, ponds, canals and even the Everglades, where they can harm fish and birds.

Regularly sweeping the driveway assures there is less chance that sand and debris collected on your driveway can get into stormwater drains. Check your cars regularly for spills/leakage of oils and coolant. Clean up spills with old rags, and dispose of them properly.

Around the House

Use Water Wisely

We use and need to dispose of a vast quantities of water in and around the house. If your home or business is connected to a central sewer system, wastewater from your shower, toilet, dishes and laundry is sent to a regional wastewater treatment plant. If not, you likely have a septic tank in your yard.

Older or improperly maintained sewage and septic systems can leak. These kinds of leaks can contaminate interconnected water systems. Systems at risk range from individual yards and neighborhood or community lakes or waterways to the regional systems that flow eventually into wetlands, aquifers and the oceans, bays and estuaries surrounding Florida.

Water supplies are finite. That means that the overall quantity of water on the planet never really changes, but its location, cost to obtain and quality do change. When more people need access to that supply, the share per person gets smaller. People are drawing from the same sources that wildlife and wild places depend on. And as the way we use water and land adds pollutants, or increasing demands force us to draw from less easily found water sources, the costs of water increase.

Conserving water can lessen the load on sewer and septic systems, help protect the environment and make existing freshwater supplies last longer.

EPA WaterSense

The South Florida Water Management District is partnering with the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) to bring to you WaterSense, a national program that offers a simple way to choose appliances and other products that use less water – and perform as well or better than your existing products.

Building/Remodeling

In Florida, most structures must be elevated to avoid flooding, because Florida is so flat that rainfall can quickly accumulate. Elevated foundations or house pads usually require sand, rock or other materials. Some properties require other types of fill (soil, shell rock, silt) to raise the property's overall elevation. That's why building or remodeling may require a truckload of sand or other fill materials. The temporary result: a small mountain sitting somewhere on your property!