Split (3)

train · 35.8k rows

Subsets and Splits

No community queries yet

The top public SQL queries from the community will appear here once available.

url stringlengths 27 124	title stringlengths 10 107	summary stringlengths 15 6.15k	article stringlengths 0 117k	step_headers stringlengths 0 5.75k
https://www.wikihow.com/Jump-in-Dark-Souls	How to Jump in Dark Souls	To jump in Dark Souls while playing on the Xbox 360, start by pointing the left joystick in the direction you want your character to move. As your character is moving, press and hold the “B” button on your controller to make your character run, since you can only jump while your character is running. Once your character starts running, release the “B” button, then quickly tap “B” again to make them jump. If you're playing on the PlayStation 3, the steps to jump are the same, but you'll need to press the circle button because the PlayStation 3 controller doesn't have a “B” button.	Point the left joystick in the direction you want your character to run. Press and hold the “B” button on your Xbox controller. Your character will start running. Release the “B” button, then quickly tap “B” again. Your character will jump. Point the left joystick in the direction you want your character to run. Press and hold the circle button on your PS3 controller. Your character will start running. Release the circle button, then quickly tap the circle button again. Your character will jump.	Point the left joystick in the direction you want your character to run. Press and hold the “B” button on your Xbox controller. Release the “B” button, then quickly tap “B” again. Point the left joystick in the direction you want your character to run. Press and hold the circle button on your PS3 controller. Release the circle button, then quickly tap the circle button again.
https://www.wikihow.com/Stop-Panic-Attacks	How to Stop Panic Attacks	If you're having a panic attack, take a deep breath and hold it for as long as you can. After holding your breath, begin breathing deeply, in through your nose and out through your mouth. This may help with feelings that you can't breathe, and it may also help return your heart rate to normal and make you feel like you're in control of your body again. Try to focus on your senses and what is actually around you, like things you can touch or smell, as this can also help you feel more in control.	Recognize the physical symptoms. During a panic attack, your body goes into a natural fight-or-flight response, just as if you were in a truly terrifying and dangerous situation, only no dangerous situation is actually occurring. Symptoms that are commonly experienced during a panic attack include: Chest pain or discomfort Dizziness or faintness Fear of dying Fear of losing control or impending doom Feeling of choking Feeling of detachment Feeling of unreality Nausea or upset stomach Numbness or tingling in the hands, feet, or face Palpitations, fast heart rate, or pounding heart Sweating, chills, or hot flashes Trembling or shaking Control your breathing. Most panic attacks cause rapid and shallow breathing which fuels the attack, causing the symptoms to linger. By controlling your breathing, you can help to return your heart rate to normal, lower your blood pressure, slow the sweating, and re-establish a feeling of being in control. One method to slow your breathing is to take a deep breath and hold it for as long as you can. This balances levels of oxygen and carbon dioxide and reduces the feeling that you cannot breathe. After holding your breath, then begin deep, diaphragmatic breathing. Breathe in slowly and deeply, then exhale even more slowly. To practice diaphragmatic breathing, try sitting in a chair with 1 hand on your chest and the other a little below your rib cage. Sit comfortably with bent knees, and relaxed shoulders and neck. Next breathe in slowly through your nose and let your stomach expand, keeping your upper chest as still as possible. Slowly exhale, tightening your stomach muscles, and keep your upper chest still. The hand on your stomach area should move out as you inhale, then back in as you exhale, with the hand on your upper chest remaining as still as possible. Another method is the 5-2-5 method. Inhale with your diaphragm for 5 seconds. Hold your breath for 2 seconds. Then exhale for 5 more seconds. Repeat 5 times. Breathing into a paper bag is not routinely recommended anymore. It may not be as beneficial as was believed in the past, and may even be detrimental. Take prescription medication. One of the most effective ways to stop a panic attack is by taking oral agents classed as anti-anxiety medications, usually benzodiazepines. Common drugs used to treat panic attacks that are classed as benzodiazepines include alprazolam, lorazepam, and diazepam. These agents have a fairly rapid onset and can help to relieve symptoms within 10 to 30 minutes. Other agents prescribed that fall in the group of benzodiazepines start to work a little slower but stay in your blood stream longer. Examples of these agents include clonazepam, chlordiazepoxide, and oxazepam. These agents are often prescribed in low doses to take regularly until the panic attacks become more manageable by using other types of medication, such as selective serotonin reuptake inhibitors, or participating in cognitive behavioral therapy. Try to continue your activity. As much as possible, carry on normally and continue with your current activity and daily routine to prevent the panic from consuming you. Continue talking, moving, and keep your thoughts focused. By doing so, you are sending messages to your brain, and your panic, that there is no danger, no alarm, and no reason to be in a fight-or-flight state. Avoid running away. If you have a panic attack at a specific place, maybe a grocery store, then you may want to run away and leave the store as quickly as possible. By staying where you are, and taking control of your symptoms, you are taking steps to train your brain in recognizing the absence of real danger in the grocery store. If you run away, your brain begins to associate that place, and maybe all grocery stores, with danger, and may create feelings of panic each time you enter a grocery store. Focus on other things. With the help of a therapist, you can learn ways to naturally focus your thoughts, and take control of the panic. Examples include drinking something either warm or cold, taking a short walk, singing along to a favorite song, talking with a friend, and watching TV. Additional things to try in order to focus on something other than the panic include stretching exercises, doing a puzzle, changing the air temperature, rolling down the window if you are in a car, going outside for some fresh air, or reading something that is interesting to you. Distinguish between a stressful experience and a panic attack. While both types of experiences are similar in that physical reactions occur, such as elevated blood pressure, sweating, and increased heart rate, they are distinctly different events. Stressful experiences happen to everyone at one time or another. The body's natural fight or flight instinct may be activated during a stressful or anxious situation, just as it is during a panic attack, but there is always a trigger, event, or experience that is directly tied to the reaction. Panic attacks are not tied to an event, are unpredictable, and the severity of an attack can be extreme and terrifying. Implement relaxation techniques. Take steps to calm down by using established methods of relaxation to take control of the exaggerated stressful or anxious experience. If you suffer from panic attacks or panic disorder, working with a cognitive behavioral therapist will help you learn relaxation strategies to take control of the panic when it starts. Use your senses to tackle the attack. Whether you experience a panic attack, an anxiety attack, or find yourself in a stressful situation, by focusing on your senses, even for just a few moments, you can slow down the unwanted physical symptoms that are happening. Use your eyesight to notice pleasant things in your immediate surroundings. If you are in a safe place, try closing your eyes and visualizing your favorite flower, favorite painting, favorite beach, or something that makes you feel more relaxed. Stop and listen to what is around you. Try to find music in the distance, hear the birds, the wind or the rain, or even the hum of traffic on a nearby highway. Try to find something new that you can hear, other than the sounds of your heart beating and sounds that are part of the stressful event. Continue to apply the senses by identifying the smells around you. Perhaps you are inside and someone is cooking, or you are outside and you can smell rain in the air. Focus on the sense of touch. You may not realize it but you are always touching something. If you are seated, focus on the way the chair feels, or notice if the table your arm is resting on is cold, or warm, or if you can feel a breeze on your face. By taking those few moments to review what your senses are experiencing, you have redirected the focus away from the panic, anxiety, or stress. This is clearly not resolving the cause of the panic, anxiety, or stress, but concentrating on your senses is useful in addressing the unwanted physical reaction your body may be experiencing. Talk to your doctor about your attacks. Your doctor may treat you with recommended medications or may refer you to a mental health professional to evaluate and prescribe medications. Both a regular doctor and a mental health physician will likely recommend a cognitive behavioral therapist. Many panic attacks are commonly related to other underlying disorders, including some mental health conditions and some medical problems. Talk to your doctor to rule out an underlying medical condition. Seek medical help sooner rather than later. Studies show that people that are treated for panic attacks and panic disorder early, have better overall outcomes with fewer complications. Take medications as prescribed. Commonly used agents include benzodiazepines, both rapid acting and intermediate acting. Benzodiazepines are considered addictive, so be sure to take them exactly as your doctor advised. Taking more than is recommended is dangerous and can cause serious and potentially fatal withdrawal effects if taken chronically. Take rapid acting agents only when needed. Rapid acting agents help to manage the symptoms when you feel a panic attack beginning. These are often prescribed to have available if needed, or when you begin to have a panic attack. Take these agents only when needed to avoid becoming tolerant to the prescribed dose. Examples of medications prescribed to take when an attack begins, on an as needed basis, are lorazepam, alprazolam, and diazepam. Take longer acting agents routinely, or as prescribed. The intermediate agents take a little longer to start working, but have longer lasting effects. These medications are often prescribed for routine dosing, to help you avoid attacks, until further steps, such as cognitive behavioral therapy, can be taken. Examples of intermediate acting agents include clonazepam, oxazepam, and chlordiazepoxide. Take an SSRI. Selective serotonin reuptake inhibitors, commonly known as SSRIs, are effective in treating panic attacks and panic disorder. SSRIs that are FDA approved for use in treating panic symptoms include fluoxetine, fluvoxamine, citalopram, escitalopram, paroxetine, and sertraline. Duloxetine is a closely related agent and is also approved for use in the treatment of panic symptoms. Work with a cognitive behavioral therapist. This form of therapy is key in training your brain and your body to overcome panic attacks, and help you reach a point where they no longer occur at all. Know what to expect from cognitive behavioral therapy. Therapists trained in this form of psychotherapy use 5 fundamentals as they work with people that suffer from panic attacks. The 5 areas of focus include the following: Learning about the illness helps you to better understand what is happening that causes the frightening symptoms experienced when a panic attack occurs. Monitoring and recording dates and times of events, like keeping a diary or a journal, helps both you and the therapist to identify triggers that cause the attacks to begin. Breathing and relaxation techniques are a part of the tools used to reduce the severity of symptoms. Rethinking is used to help alter the perception of an attack from what feels catastrophic to what is realistic. Providing exposure, safely and in a controlled manner, to places or events that are triggers for your attacks, helps to train your brain and body to react differently. Consider an evaluation for panic disorder. Panic disorder is diagnosed when 4 or more of the above symptoms are present. Early treatment for panic disorder improves overall outcomes and reduces possible complications associated with continued attacks.	Recognize the physical symptoms. Control your breathing. Take prescription medication. Try to continue your activity. Avoid running away. Focus on other things. Distinguish between a stressful experience and a panic attack. Implement relaxation techniques. Use your senses to tackle the attack. Talk to your doctor about your attacks. Seek medical help sooner rather than later. Take medications as prescribed. Take rapid acting agents only when needed. Take longer acting agents routinely, or as prescribed. Take an SSRI. Work with a cognitive behavioral therapist. Consider an evaluation for panic disorder.
https://www.wikihow.com/Write-a-Visit-Report	How to Write a Visit Report	To write a visit report, start by including a general introduction that tells your audience where and when you visited, who your contact was, and how you got there. Once you have the introduction written out, take 1 to 2 paragraphs to describe the purpose of the site you visited, including details like the size and layout. If you visited a business, talk about what the business does and describe any specific departments you went to. Then, summarize what happened during your visit in chronological order. Make sure to include people you met and what they told you. Toward the end of your report, reflect on your visit by identifying any strengths and weaknesses in how the site operates and provide any recommendations for improvement.	Look over the requirements of your visit report. There is no 1 way to write a visit report. If you're a student, check the assignment from your instructor. If you're a consultant or professional working for a company, look at other visit reports from your company to use as a model. Reports are usually only 2-3 pages long, but in some cases, these reports may be much longer. In some cases, you may be asked to give recommendations or opinions about the site. In other cases, you will be asked only to describe the site. Ask your boss or instructor for models of other visit reports. If you can't get a model, look up samples online. Start the paper with general information about the visit. This will serve as your introduction. In a paragraph, tell your audience when you visited the site and where the site is located. State who your contact was at the site. If extensive travel was needed, you may also briefly state how you arrived at the site. Define the purpose of the site. In 1-2 paragraphs, describe what type of site it is. Is it a factory, construction site, business, or school? Include details about the size, layout, and equipment used at the site. State how many people work at the site or who owns the site. If you visited a factory, explain what it is producing and what equipment it uses. If you visited a construction site, describe what is being constructed and how far along the construction is. You should also describe the terrain of the site and the layout. If you're visiting a business, describe what the business does. State which department or part of the business you visited. If you're visiting a school, identify which grades they teach. Note how many students attend the school. Name the teachers whose classes you observed. Explain what happened during the visit in chronological order. Start at the beginning of your visit. What did you do? Who did you meet? Describe the events of the day going until you left the site. This may be anywhere from a few paragraphs to a few pages long. Make sure to include: Who did you talk to? What did they tell you? What did you see at the site? What events took place? Did you attend a seminar, Q&A session, or interview? Did you see any demonstrations of equipment or techniques? Summarize the operations at the site. In as much detail as possible, describe the processes and procedures at the site. If they use any special techniques, state how these techniques are performed. If they manufacture something in a particular way, give a step-by-step account of this process. For example, at a car factory, describe whether the cars are made by robots or humans. Describe each step of the assembly line. If you're visiting a business, talk about different departments within the business. Describe their corporate structure and identify what programs they use to conduct their business. Describe what you learned at the site if you’re a student. Draw connections between what you learned at the site and what you learned in class. State how seeing the site helped you understand what you are learning in class. You might ask yourself: Is there something you didn't realize before that you learned while at the site? Who at the site provided helpful information? What was your favorite part of the visit and why? Identify the strengths and weaknesses of the site. Note which processes, policies, and practices work well at the site. If you notice any flaws, describe these as well. Try to be as specific as possible. Name the exact machine, equipment, process, or policy that could be fixed. For example, you might state that the factory uses the latest technology but point out that employees need more training to work with the new equipment. If there was anything important left out of the visit, state what it was. For example, maybe you were hoping to see the main factory floor or to talk to the manager. Provide recommendations for improvement if required. If you're asked to provide recommendations, take a few paragraphs to share your thoughts and observations. Identify problematic areas in the site and provide specific, actionable recommendations to improve them. Tailor your recommendations to the organization or institution that owns the site. What is practical and reasonable for them to do to improve their site? Be specific. Don't just say they need to improve infrastructure. State what type of equipment they need or give advice on how to improve employee morale. Add a title page to the beginning of your report. The title should be the name of the visit and site, such as "Visit to Airplane Factory" or "Corporate Headquarters Visit Report." Under the title, include your name, your institution, and the date of the visit. Do not put any other information on this page. If you are following a certain style guideline, like APA or Chicago style, make sure to format the title page according to the rules of the handbook. Write in clear and objective language. Keep your sentences short and concise. Avoid writing with too many adjectives or flowery language. This will make your report clear and direct. Don't just say “the visit was interesting” or “I was bored.” Be specific when describing what you learned or saw. Include any relevant pictures if desired. While pictures are usually not required, they may be helpful in some visit reports. Group photographs, images of machinery, or graphics demonstrating the layout of the site might be helpful. Proofread your report carefully. Check for any grammatical errors or typos. Ask someone else to read over it for you to make sure it sounds good. If you're a student, check your professor's guidelines to make sure that you have all of the required parts.	Look over the requirements of your visit report. Start the paper with general information about the visit. Define the purpose of the site. Explain what happened during the visit in chronological order. Summarize the operations at the site. Describe what you learned at the site if you’re a student. Identify the strengths and weaknesses of the site. Provide recommendations for improvement if required. Add a title page to the beginning of your report. Write in clear and objective language. Include any relevant pictures if desired. Proofread your report carefully.
https://www.wikihow.com/Write-Instructions	How to Write Instructions	If you need to write out instructions for a task, start by performing the task yourself. Write down everything that you have to do in order, and include any specific details a reader might need to know. Start your steps with action verbs like “Add,” “Paint,” or “Cut” so the reader clearly understands what they need to do. Open with an introduction to let the reader know what the instructions are for, as well as anything important they might need to know before they start. Also, include a list of supplies or ingredients the person might need.	Know your audience. The first thing to do when writing instructions is to know your audience. Who are you writing for? Are these people experts or novices? Knowing your audience helps you choose your words, your level of detail, and the way you structure the instructions. For example, if you were explaining how to bake a cake to a professional chef, you wouldn't have to explain how to fold in the ingredients, why it's important to bring the eggs to room temperature, or the difference between all-purpose and self-rising flour. If you were explaining this to someone who doesn't know how to cook, these definitions and explanations may make the difference between a good cake and a bad cake. Err on the side of caution and don't treat the audience as an expert. This ensures your instructions are always clear and able to be followed. Identify any tools needed. Before you begin, you want to make sure you state clearly what is required to successfully complete the instructions. This might be a list of ingredients or a group of tools. Perform the task. One great way to get clear instructions is to go through the process yourself. This way, you can write down specific steps. If you try to do something from memory, you may not remember everything. Then have someone else perform the task. Ask them for feedback about any confusing or unclear steps. Be careful not to leave something out. If you skip important steps, you make it impossible for the reader to complete the task. Also make sure you don't write the steps out of order. For example, if you say, "Mix the ingredients with a mixer. Place in the oven at 350 degrees," the reader may think you place the mixing bowl in the oven. Keep it simple. Effective instruction is simple. Don't use long, involved paragraphs. Instead, use short, clear sentences, bullet points, and visual aids. Use active words. Instructions should be full of active, descriptive words. Start your steps with action verbs. This gives the reader a clear action to perform. Each step should read as a command and use the imperative mood. When defining or explaining, use as much descriptive language as possible. For example, say "Add two eggs" instead of "Two eggs should be added to the cake mix." Add only necessary information. When you include additional information, make sure that you are including only what is necessary. Ask yourself, "Does the reader need to know this definition to understand the instructions?" or "Does the reader need this tip to successfully complete this task?" Refrain from adding unnecessary information. Unneeded definitions, tips, steps, or information can confuse your readers, making it difficult to follow the instructions. Address the reader. When writing instructions, you should address the reader. Do this using the word "you." This helps lead the reader personally through the steps. Be specific. When writing instructions, be as specific as possible. Outline exactly what they do. This includes which way they turn a wrench, how many feet they walk, or what the consistency of the cake should look like when they are done. Give all measurements exactly. If someone needs to cut off 5/8-inch of a board, say that. For example, if you are baking a cake, don't wait until step 4 to say, "Before mixing the ingredients, sift the flour and bring the eggs to room temperature." Use sequence and time transitions. Transitions help connect the steps to each other. They also help relate the ideas. In instructions, you will use sequence and time transitions. This helps the reader understand the step-by-step instructions. Some common transitions are: first, next, then, finally, after, before. Include an introduction. Before you start detailing the instructions, you need to give the reader a brief introduction. This introduction explains what the reader should be able to do after the instructions. It also provides an overview of the procedure. This should be written in clear, plain language. State the purpose of the instructions, who should read the instructions, and what situation might need the procedure. You can talk about what the procedure doesn't do. You can also provide background information in the intro. The introduction can mention any warnings or important information that is needed before the reader begins the process. But remember most people will skip the intro, so don't put anything important in the introduction that you don't put somewhere else. For example, "These instructions provide information on how to bake a chocolate cake. The first section explains how to combine the wet and dry ingredients, and the second section explains how to bake properly."#Place the steps in sequential order. Instructions need to be in a specific order. The tasks should logically follow one after another. Step 1 has to be completed before you can move on to step 2. Organization is pivotal for writing instructions. If it doesn't matter which order something is done in, start with the most important. Organize your steps into prerequisites. Instructions are made up of sequential interrelated tasks. Before you start writing your instructions, you have to decide which steps are prerequisites. This means that you have to decide what has to be done first to complete the overall task. For example, if you are baking a cake, you have to heat the oven, mix the ingredients, and make the frosting before you can complete the cake. Break the instructions into separate tasks. Most instructions contain multiple tasks that must be completed for the procedure to be finished. Organizing the instructions into separate parts for each task helps the instructions read clear and as simply as possible for the reader. For example, if you are working on a car, there are different things you have to do before getting to the engine. You have to place the car on a jack, remove other car parts, or remove covers. Each of these tasks require their own sets of instructions. You should break each task down into a separate part with its own unique set of instructions. These parts, just like the steps, go in sequential order. You can't remove the engine cover before jacking the car or removing the part blocking it. Parts should be listed in the order that they need to be completed. Try to keep each task around 10 steps. If you go over 10 steps, find another task or part to break the procedure into. This helps people be able to go back and track their progress. They will know when they have successfully completed a part. Additionally, if they made a mistake, they can go back and fix it without having to redo the entire set of instructions. Label each task clearly. To help the reader understand the instructions, label each section of the instructions clearly. The heading of the task should summarize what that specific task or part covers. The reader should understand the task they will learn how to do before they begin. Place one step in one sentence. The sentences for the steps should be short and only include one step per sentence. This ensures that you break down the task into separate actions instead of making each step with multiple actions. If a step has a related action that must be completed together, explain them in their sequence in the same sentence. For example, "Before pouring the cake in the pan, coat the pan with cooking spray" or "Coat the pan with cooking spray. Then pour the cake into the pan." Provide trackable steps. One important key to instructions is helping your reader track his or her progress. Provide substeps that allow them to see they have done something correct. It might look like this: "When you have ___________, you will see _________." For example, "When the cake is done, insert a toothpick into the middle. If the toothpick comes out clean, the cake is done." Include any alternate steps. For some steps, there might be multiple ways of doing the same thing. Make sure to explain the different ways the step can be accomplished. If there are conditions which make one step better in a certain situation, make sure to discuss that. If one step is easier, cheaper, or more effective, make sure to explain that. Use substeps if necessary. For some procedures, you may need to break it down further with substeps. Substeps should only be used if they are too small to be considered their own step. Substeps help break down the step into separate parts or sequences of events. Add supplementary information into the substeps. This information gives you further detail about the step, such as what something might look like before and after or why the step is important. Place warnings and conditions at the beginning. If there are things the reader needs to know, do, or understand before beginning the task, make sure you tell them that at the beginning of the step. Anticipate problems. Think about places where your readers might run into problems. Then offer troubleshooting advice. You can also provide examples of things that might go wrong if they have completed a step incorrectly. This step is extremely important. If you have completed the instructions yourself, you will already know where you might encounter problems. That's why it's important to go through the process as you are writing the instructions. Finish the instructions. This is very important. Some instructions are not complete when the last nail is hammered or the cake comes out of the oven. Think about what else the person needs to do. If you can think of a "Now what?" you still have other steps to add. Format the instructions. When writing instructions, make sure to format them clearly. This helps the reader understand how to read the instructions and not get confused. Use a headings to label each discrete part of the instructions. Use numbers when listing the steps in order. Use bullets to list alternatives, additional information, or anything else under the steps. Visually separate the steps. Place a space between the steps to show a difference. Choose an effective title. The title of the instructions should give an exact preview of what the instructions will explain. For example, "Instructions for Baking an Eggless Chocolate Cake" is much more specific than "Chocolate Cake." Use visuals and diagrams if necessary. Some instructions require diagrams, pictures, charts, or other visual aids to help. Supplement the instructions with these visuals when needed. The visuals should repeat the ideas in the prose, not present any new information. Visuals are supplement material. Make sure visuals are near the prose. It should go above, below, or beside the step.	Know your audience. Identify any tools needed. Perform the task. Keep it simple. Use active words. Add only necessary information. Address the reader. Be specific. Use sequence and time transitions. Include an introduction. Organize your steps into prerequisites. Break the instructions into separate tasks. Label each task clearly. Place one step in one sentence. Provide trackable steps. Include any alternate steps. Use substeps if necessary. Place warnings and conditions at the beginning. Anticipate problems. Finish the instructions. Format the instructions. Choose an effective title. Use visuals and diagrams if necessary.
https://www.wikihow.com/Make-Your-Christmas-Lights-Flash-to-Music	How to Make Your Christmas Lights Flash to Music	To make your Christmas lights flash to music, start by getting a control system that you can hook up to your computer and lights. You'll also need to download free software on your computer that will sync your music and lights, like Hinkle's Light Sequencer or Light-O-Rama. Once you have a control system and some software, you can hang up your Christmas lights and use the software to program them with your song of choice.	Decide how big you want your lights show. You can decide to have your lights draped across your whole home, either inside or outside, or choose specific spots on your house and in your front garden. Keep the following in mind while you're planning your lights show: A channel is a unit of lights that can be controlled individually. For example, a single bush in your yard may be a channel if you drape one set of lights over it. All the lights in a channel work as a single unit. Unfortunately, you can't flash an individual light bulb. 32 to 64 channels is a good size to start with if you're never programmed lights to music before. Any bigger than that, and you'll probably curse the day you ever decided to take on the project (or the day your spouse made you take it on). Stock up. The best time to buy lights is the day after Christmas. Often, you'll find lights that were normally priced around $2 a strand fall to $0.50. Check out Walmart, Target, Lowe's, Home Depot, K-Mart, and other department stores for the best deal. Use the internet to price-hunt. Obtain a control system. You will need hardware that hooks up to your computer. You can buy a system completely built, a kit, or a full do-it-yourself system. A fully built system will work right out of the box. It will cost you about $20 - $25 per channel. A fully built system can be purchased from online vendors. Choose this option if you do not want to do any electrical work (especially soldering), or don't have the slightest clue about where to start. A kit is a little more hands-on. It will cost from $15 or so per channel, but it's pretty much the same thing as a fully built product without the enclosure. Because it is very simple to place an electronics board in an enclosure, this may be a great option if you're looking to save money. Some vendors sell everything you need to build a control system, including the bare circuit board and the parts. If you are willing to solder a little bit, try this A DIY system costs roughly $5 per channel and up. The price depends on how much you actually do yourself. A system consists of a controller, which communicates with your computer, and solid state relays (SSRs), which actually switch the lights. SSRs can be bought or made yourself. With a DIY option, you will spend lots of time making your hardware, but the cost savings should make up for it. You'll also have the ability to totally customize your hardware, and will be able to fix problems easily. Get help. This can be a very big and complicated project, and often can seem overwhelming if you're just getting started. Have interested friends or family members help you, or sign up for help at some of the forums listed below. Depending on the degree of difficulty, give yourself anywhere from 2-6 months of prep time before you can expect your lights show to be fully operational. It may sound like a lot of time, but you'll need it. Get software. For the low-tech layman, you'll be able to buy software that will help you program your lights. There is also free software available for Do-It-Yourself systems (see the links section). If you're ambitious and more of a tech-wizard, you may wish to hand-code a program in almost any major programming language. Note, however, that you won't be able to use this option for pre-built products, as most of their protocols are closed-source. The software that you choose will basically break the song you're syncing your lights to into very short segments (.10 second), letting you program each channel of lights to turn on, turn off, fade, twinkle or shimmer. There are essentially three commercial options for software. Light-O-Rama is the vendor for most residential lights displays. It is, however, pretty complex, and can take as much as four hours per minute of the song to program 32-48 channels. Animated Lighting is more expensive but easier to program. Some residential light displays and most commercial ones choose Animated Lighting. D-Lights is the second from the least expensive of the bunch, but you need to have some passing familiarity with and knowledge of control systems and electrical engineering. Hinkle's Lighting Sequencer is actually a free software that is simple yet powerful on incandescent light bulbs, LEDs, and RGB LEDs. Design your display. Design the actual outside portion of your display. Common elements to include are: Mini lights or net lights go on landscaping. Icicle lights or c-series lights usually go on the roof. Mini Trees are two- to three-foot-tall trees, often made of tomato cages wrapped in lights of one or multiple colors. Arranged in a line or a triangle, they are very useful in an animated display. A Mega Tree usually consists of a large pole with lights extending from the top to a large ring around the base. Again, it is very useful in animation. Wireframes are metal frames with lights attached. Blow molds are plastic lighted sculptures of deer, Santas, etc. They are usually placed throughout the yard. C9 Lights are bulbous, colorful lights that usually go on the yard perimeter. Program your show. Here comes the time consuming part! Decide on music that you will synchronize to, then start programming on your time grid. Don't do everything at once. This will probably take a couple of months, depending on the length of your show and how many channels you have. How program your show varies, depending on the software program you choose. Let them hear you. Use a way that will create a spectacular sound yet keep everybody at peace. Speakers playing the same music over and over again would drive the neighbors crazy, so in most cases you will need to broadcast over an FM frequency. Please see the warnings section at the bottom of this page. Respectfully inform your neighbors of your plan to create an animated display; having the neighbors on your side is important if you want your display to last long enough for other people to see it. Stick to a single showing at the top of the hour, once or twice a night. If the neighbors know that the display will only last three minutes, and will show nightly at 8 and 9 PM, they'll probably be more understanding than if you blasted it regularly from 6-9. Get powered up. Make sure your home has enough outside power to run your lights. A typical mini light strand, for example, draws about 1/3 amp. Speaking of power, computerizing your display will have a lower electric bill than a static display since not all the lights are on at once. Please see the warnings section at the end. Publicize. Put a sign in your yard. Make a website. List on a display listing site. Tell your friends. Doing all this work will not be worth it if no one comes to see your display. Don't go to extremes, but make sure people know about you. Again, inform your neighbors that you are publicizing your display. They'll be much more accommodating if they know your plan to attract attention from around the neighborhood. Maintain your display. Go outside every morning and check your display. Repair or replace broken lights or damage caused by weather or vandals. Make sure things are ready to run that night. Finished.	Decide how big you want your lights show. Stock up. Obtain a control system. Get help. Get software. Design your display. Program your show. Let them hear you. Get powered up. Publicize. Maintain your display. Finished.
https://www.wikihow.com/Spot-Fake-Nikes	How to Spot Fake Nikes	When shopping for Nike shoes online, check a seller's ratings and reviews before committing to a purchase. Be wary of listings that use stock images instead of original photos, and stay away from any sellers that advertise “custom,” “variant,” or “sample” Nikes. Avoid shoes listed at half-price or lower since they are usually fake, especially if they ship out of a distant country like China. When in doubt, ask for additional pictures so you can compare them with official photos from Nike.	Investigate Nike shoes sellers on the Internet. Be extremely cautious when purchasing Nike shoes on the Internet. Since you don't actually have the physical product in front of you, you can very easily be throwing money at a fake shoe. To avoid purchasing a fake: Read website ratings and reviews before buying anything. Bad reviews is an obvious sign that the seller is not reliable or reputable. However, be careful because some sites will choose to only show “good” reviews. Do a third party search by inputting the seller in a third party search site and examining their reputation there instead of on the seller's site. Ensure you are protected from fraud. Some online websites provide their customers with a return policy, even if the seller is a third party of the site. Having security that you will get your money back will protect you losing if you do happen to purchase fake Nike shoes. Avoid sellers that substitute stock shoe photos for pictures of actual Nike shoes. A stock shoe photo is more aesthetically appealing but it's not what you should be looking for when purchasing shoes online. A photo that is obviously shot within a home ensures that the pair actually exists and its condition can be matched with the photo. You could try to contact the seller and ask them to take another photo of the shoe with an item that determines the date or authenticity of the photo. For example, ask the seller to take a photo of the shoe next to today's newspaper. Avoid items that claim to be "custom," "variant" or "sample" Nike shoes. True Nike shoe samples only come in men's U.S. size 9, 10, 11, women's 7 and children's 3.5. There are also no such real Nike shoes that are “custom” or “variant”. View the seller's entire inventory. For unknown reasons, counterfeiters tend not to sell U.S. sizes 9 or 13 and above. Older Nike shoes that are out of production are almost never available in a full sizing run. For example, if you're searching for a pair of vintage Nikes and find a site that has a stock of 200, they are likely fakes. Avoid Nike shoes priced far below their normal value. The shoe is either fake or extremely damaged. Generally, a Nike shoe that is priced in half is most likely fake. A reasonable discount is more realistic, especially if the shoe is a limited edition or vintage. A seller might price it extremely high and offer you the chance to haggle to a ridiculously low price. Be careful, especially since you don't have the physical shoe to verify its state and existence. Check the shipping estimation. If it will take between 7 and 14 days to deliver your shoes, they are likely traveling from China (a verified source of fake Nike shoes) or from another distant country. If you must order Nikes online, it's best to purchase them directly from the company's website or from the list of authorized [ Nike retailers. ] Don't buy shoes that are available before the official release date. It is almost guaranteed that any shoe available before the official release date will be a counterfeit. These shoes may look like an upcoming design but are most likely modelled very closely to look like it. Early release photos allow counterfeits to be produced without originals to be compared with and many people fall into the trap of attempting to get their hands on a pair before everyone else. Verify your Nike shoes. Once you find shoes you like, take more steps to verify their authenticity. Double check with Nike or a trusted retailer's website to compare them with an image of the original shoe. Ask the seller to verify that the shoes are authentic. You can also ask for their supplier's contact information for further information. Examine the packaging. Most fake Nike shoes do not come in an original Nike box. Instead, they are shrink-wrapped in clear plastic or don't come in a box at all. Most of the boxes for fake Nikes are hastily glued together and therefore not as sturdy as true Nike boxes. Examine the condition of the shoes. If you have owned similar Nike shoes in the past, compare them to your new shoes. If the two pairs significantly differ in quality, your new shoes are likely fake and may fall apart within the first several days of use. Real Nikes are always softer than fake ones. This is because they are made from real leather, while fake Nikes are manufactured from pleather. The midsoles of fake Nike shoes tend to have visible dots from the manufacturing process, unlike real Nikes. Check the lacing. Real Nike shoes are usually fully laced, while fakes tend to skip every other lacing hole. Examine the SKU number on the box and the labels inside of the shoes. Every pair of authentic Nike shoes comes with an SKU number that is identical to the SKU number on their box. If the numbers are missing or do not match, they are likely fakes. Check the tongue label. Often, fake Nike manufacturers put outdated sizing labels on the inside of the shoe. For example, a fake label may tell you the shoe was designed in 2008 when in fact Nike first manufactured that item in 2010. Try the shoes on. The soles of most fake Nike sneakers feel plastic-y and don't have much traction, while real Nike shoes have BRS 1000 rubber soles. Most fake Nike sneakers do not fit true to size. They generally are 1/2 size smaller and significantly narrower than real Nikes. Try the same Nike shoe in a trusted retailer to get an accurate reading of how it feels.	Investigate Nike shoes sellers on the Internet. Avoid sellers that substitute stock shoe photos for pictures of actual Nike shoes. Avoid items that claim to be "custom," "variant" or "sample" Nike shoes. Avoid Nike shoes priced far below their normal value. Don't buy shoes that are available before the official release date. Verify your Nike shoes. Examine the packaging. Examine the condition of the shoes. Examine the SKU number on the box and the labels inside of the shoes. Try the shoes on.
https://www.wikihow.com/Find-a-Good-Personal-Injury-Lawyer	How to Find a Good Personal Injury Lawyer	To find a personal injury lawyer, start by asking your friends or family members for a referral as this will help you determine if the lawyer is good. Alternatively, make a list of potential candidates and narrow it down based on their areas of expertise so you're only looking at lawyers who focus on your particular type of case. If you want to find out more information about a lawyer, check their social media pages to get an idea of how they operate. Additionally, search online to find out if any bar complaints have been filed against them.	Understand the benefits of a qualified lawyer. Personal injury is a specialized area of law. Even though an attorney may be licensed to practice before the court, she may not have the knowledge of the complexities of personal injury law and how to apply them to your case for the best outcome. The body of law grows and changes daily. A qualified personal injury attorney keeps abreast of the latest developments in both state statutes and the case law coming out of the courts. Many personal injury cases involve working with an insurance company. You need a lawyer that has established relationships with the auto and health insurance companies that do business in your state. The right personal injury lawyer understands all facets of your case and the compensation you may be entitled to. The car wreck or the faulty product is usually just the first incident in the chain of your injury and recovery. The repercussions of a serious injury can last for the rest of your life. A skilled lawyer takes the long view and crafts a settlement that meets all of your needs. Identify your injury. Even something as obvious as a car accident has several parts. You were physically injured and your car was damaged, but there may be more layers. For example, you lost wages going to medical appointments, your home had to be remodeled to accommodate a wheelchair, you had to rent special equipment, or worse, you or a family member was left disabled and needing permanent care. In cases of slander or defamation, you may have lost a job or business and now you can't find a job. At this stage, don't worry if you don't get it exactly right. Your lawyer will do a thorough analysis of your case. However, you need to have a general idea of your injuries in order to pick a qualified lawyer. Start your case journal. Before you talk to a personal injury lawyer, write down what you know about the incident. Start with the date and time and the names of everyone you can think of that were involved. If there was a physical accident, list the address. This is the beginning of your case journal. You will record everything you do that is connected with your case from medical appointments to discussions with attorneys and insurance companies. Assemble your documentation. Pull together every scrap of paper you can find that relates to your case. At this point, don't try to judge what is or isn't important. That's your lawyer's job. Any tickets, reports, even business cards, that you received from law enforcement or emergency responders during or after the event. Your insurance documents and anything you have received from any insurance company involved in the event. Paperwork and receipts regarding your car or the product that led to your injury. Pay stubs and a year or two of tax returns to show your income and employment or business record. Receipts for anything you had to pay out-of-pocket for, including doctor appointments, prescriptions, medical equipment, over-the-counter medicines, or vehicle rentals related to your injury. Print-outs of emails and screen shots of text messages relating to your injury. Newspaper clippings or print-outs of news articles from the Internet about your injury. Assemble a list of potential lawyers. Most attorneys are still hired based on referrals. Ask your friends and family if anyone has used a personal injury and if you can recommend one. This is a good way to make an initial list of personal injury attorneys that practice in your area. You want someone familiar with not only the laws of your state, but the procedures in your county. Additionally, ask any attorneys (even if they are not personal injury lawyers) you know and ask them who they would hire if they were injured.However, you can also go through the phone book, conduct Internet searches for your area, and jot down information from advertisements, including television and billboards. If you were injured in a large-scale event, such as a train accident, you will likely be contacted by lawyers soliciting your business. The classic image of the "ambulance chaser," should give you pause. You can put them on your list. They may turn out to be aggressive, experienced, and competent, but you should research and evaluate them like you would any other attorney. Narrow the list to those who handle your type of injury. A car wreck expert may have a great track record, but may not have expertise in medical malpractice or defamation. You want someone who is an experienced in your type of case. Advertisements can help you cull the list. The back cover of the phone book may tout expertise in medical malpractice, but you need a product liability specialist. That makes it an easy yes or no. Call the office and ask if your case is the type they handle. If the receptionist doesn't know, ask to speak to a paralegal or an attorney. Run an Internet search of the lawyer's name and see what kind of articles, and even case law, comes up in the results. This can give you a good feel for the type of cases they prefer to litigate. Check for disciplinary action. Each state has rules of conduct for attorneys. Actions against attorneys, called bar complaints, are investigated and ruled on by the disciplinary authority for the state. Most states maintain an online database of serious disciplinary violations and the actions taken, including disbarment. The existence of a bar complaint should be taken into consideration, but not be dispositive on your choice of attorney. Complaints can be as simple as failure to pay the annual bar dues and many are lodged by disgruntled clients. If you have any doubts, ask the attorney for an explanation. Examine the attorney's online presence. A law firm's virtual footprint can tell you a lot about how they do business. From the attorney's website to their social media, you can get a lot of information to help you narrow your list down before you start conducting consultations about your case. Check the online review sites. Once you have made your first cut, run an Internet search with the lawyer's name followed by "review" or "complaint." While one bad or one good review may not be dispositive, a pattern of reviews can give you an idea of how the attorney conducts business. Review their social media presence. The law firm or individual attorney may have a public Facebook page,Twitter profile, or Linkedin page. These profiles can give you some insight into the philosophy and attitude of the attorneys. Are they friendly and engaging or very formal? Is there discussion of favorable verdicts and settlements along with links to useful information or does the attorney rant about politics? This is a good way to see if this is someone you want to work with. The website or blog should be up-to-date with fresh content. If the last article was dated two years ago, this could indicate a lack of attention to detail. Analyze the section on verdicts and settlements. You are looking for cases similar to yours and to see how much the attorney was able to recover in damages. Prioritize your attorney list. After doing your initial evaluation, you should be leaning toward or away from some of the personal injury lawyers on your list. It's time to rank your list from most likely to least likely. Make an appointment. A personal injury attorney should offer a free initial consultation to discuss your case, usually 30 to 45 minutes. Take your case journal so you will be prepared to give a broad overview of your situation. Be on time. Give yourself plenty of time to find the office and park. Aim for 10 to 15 minutes early. Worry less about the quality of the office than its professionalism. Since fees pay for everything, a plain office can indicate an attorney who is careful with money and doesn't waste anything on appearances. More important is the friendliness and efficiency of the lawyer and his staff. Meet with the attorney. You may be interviewed by a paralegal or younger attorney. Make sure you ask and understand who you will be working with. Ask who you would be your primary contact. Does the attorney take his own calls or will you be dealing with a paralegal or junior associate? If so, you want to meet them before you sign a retainer. Evaluate the attorney's staff and resources. Complicated personal injury litigation may require everything from assistance with criminal charges and counter-claims (for example, if you were the driver of one of the vehicles) to investigators and auditors to locate witnesses and evaluate financial and medical records. Confirm that the attorney has the skill and resources for your type of case. Ask about verdicts and settlements. Don't be afraid to ask about potential strategies for your case and if they have litigated in your county. The law typically only gives you one chance, or "one bite at the apple." You want to feel comfortable and have confidence that your attorney will get it right the first time. Ask about the fee schedule and expenses. Most personal injury attorneys operate on a contingent fee agreement meaning that they collect only if the case is successful. However, there may be other expenses including filing fees, deposition costs, and other charges. Ask for a list of expenses that you may be responsible for in writing. Ask if you will be billed monthly or at the end of the case. Find out if there are any upfront costs that you will be expected to pay before the lawyer will take your case. A typical contingency fee is one-third of your settlement. Get the percentage number in writing. If your case has the potential of a very large verdict, the percentage may be negotiable, but don't expect to haggle. Be warned that an attorney who touts that he is the lowest priced in terms of percentage, may expect you to pay more of the expenses. Consult with several attorneys. Like any other professional, even when you think you have found "the one," you should talk to several attorneys and compare the costs, their reputation, and your impression of them. You must decide if this is someone you want to be in business with for several months to several years. If you find an attorney you like, but who cannot take your case ask them for recommendations. Typically, personal injury attorneys know a lot of similar lawyers through professional associations and they may be able to direct you in the right direction. Additionally, if you turn out to have a fairly specialized injury - they may be able to tell who they know would be best suited to handling your case. Review the retainer agreement. The proposed agreement should be clearly written, complete, and understandable. Ask any questions you have before you sign. To meet the ethical standards of the legal profession, the retainer agreement must contain certain information. The agreement must clearly state the "the basis or rate of the fee." For a personal injury case, it will show the percentage of the recovery the lawyer will take as well as any expenses that are your responsibility. The agreement must clearly state the scope of the lawyer's representation. This is also vital. If the lawyer agrees to negotiate with the insurance company, but the case ends up going to trial, if the trial wasn't included in the agreement, you could be charged extra. Ask how appeals will be handled. Finally, the agreement should state how it can be terminated by either parties. This is important if you come to a sharp disagreement with your attorney or feel he isn't acting professionally or competently. Depending on the stage of your case, this termination may require the approval of the court. Ask for an original signed copy of the retainer and keep it with your important documents. Make all agreed payments on time and cooperate with your personal injury attorney during your case. Don't miss appointments and don't be impatient. You've done your homework and found the best attorney for you and your case.	Understand the benefits of a qualified lawyer. Identify your injury. Start your case journal. Assemble your documentation. Assemble a list of potential lawyers. Narrow the list to those who handle your type of injury. Check for disciplinary action. Examine the attorney's online presence. Prioritize your attorney list. Make an appointment. Meet with the attorney. Evaluate the attorney's staff and resources. Ask about the fee schedule and expenses. Consult with several attorneys. Review the retainer agreement. Ask for an original signed copy of the retainer and keep it with your important documents.
https://www.wikihow.com/Diagnose-Canine-Ear-Infections	How to Diagnose Canine Ear Infections	If you're trying to diagnose a canine ear infection, watch to see whether your dog is scratching its ear more than usual, which could be a sign of an infection. Your dog may also shake or tilt its head or rub its ear against furniture, toys, or the floor. Lift the flap of your dog's ear and check for swelling, an unpleasant odor, redness, scabs, or discharge inside of the ear. All of these could mean that your dog has an ear infection. If you notice any of these signs, take your dog to the vet right away to get antibiotics.	Notice if your dog is scratching its ear. Your dog may be experiencing some discomfort. If you see it scratching or rubbing its ear more than usual, that could be a sign of an ear infection. The dog may also whine. Alternatively, your dog may rub its ear against objects, such as furniture or toys. Watch for head shaking or tilting. Your dog could be doing this because it's feeling discomfort. It could be a back-and-forth motion, or you may just see the dog holding its head to one side. This can also be a symptom of ear mites. Either way, it's best to take the dog to the vet. Examine the ear to check for brown, yellow, or bloody discharge. You may notice either wet or dry discharge. At first, the discharge may just appear deep inside the ear, but it could also be dripping out. If you don't see discharge, that doesn't mean that the dog doesn't have an infection. If the dog has other symptoms, it's best to take the dog to the vet. Smell the ear to see if it has an odor. Healthy dogs don't have smelly ears, so an unpleasant odor in your dog's ear means something is wrong. A pungent, unpleasant odor ear odor may mean it's infected. Look for swelling, redness, or scabs. Compare the dog's affected ear to the other ear to check for swelling and redness. It's normal for the ear to be pink, but a deep red could mean an infection. You may also notice scabbing, especially if the dog has been scratching its ear. Watch for loss of coordination or walking in circles. The dog may lose its balance and become uncoordinated if the infection is affecting its middle ear. You may notice the dog leaning, staggering, or walking in circles. If you notice a loss of coordination in your dog, take it to the vet immediately as this is a sign of a serious infection. Watch for vomiting. A severe infection can also cause vomiting, especially after the dog has lost its balance. If your dog is showing signs of infection, you should take the dog to the vet immediately. Take your dog to the vet. Since there are many potential causes for the ear infection, it's important that the vet examine your dog. Your dog may need an antibiotic to treat the infection, which the vet can prescribe. Soon, your dog will be feeling much better! Make a list of your dog's symptoms to bring with you. You should also note when they started and if they've worsened over time. Allow the vet to examine your dog’s ear canal and ear drum. They may need to sedate your dog in order to examine the ear and ear drum. This is because the dog may be in pain and could resist the exam. While it sounds scary to have your dog sedated, it's a common procedure that makes the exam easier for the dog. Expect your vet to take a sample of the discharge using a swab. The vet will insert the swab into the dog's ear canal to take a sample. The vet can test this sample to determine what is causing the infection. If there is discharge, the vet may examine it in the clinic and do a culture to determine what kind of antibiotics are needed for the infection. They may also send it off to a lab in order to determine the best treatment, which could take a few days to a week to complete. Agree to other diagnostic tests if necessary. In many cases, the vet can make a diagnosis after examining the dog and taking a sample. However, sometimes the vet wants to do more tests so that they can help your dog feel better. They may decide to do a blood test, urinalysis, MRI, or CT scan. A blood test and urinalysis can help the vet determine what is causing the infection, such as a particular bacteria. The MRI and CT scan will allow the vet to see the possible infection. They can also check if something is caught in the dog's ear, which could be causing pain and discomfort. For example, a twig may have gotten caught in the dog's ear. MRI and CT scans are specialized tests that are typically performed at universities. Allow the vet to clean out your dog’s ear. The vet will do a deeper than usual cleaning of the dog's ear. They will remove any debris and buildup that are complicating the infection or causing the dog discomfort. They will also flush the ear with an antiseptic solution. If the dog is not already sedated, the vet may choose to give it a sedative before cleaning the ear. This makes the treatment more pleasant for the dog. Give your dog its medication if the vet prescribes one. Most canine ear infections are easily treated using medications like antibiotics. The vet may prescribe either topical or oral treatments. As long as you follow your vet's instructions and administer all of the medication, your dog should recover. If they don't then you should take them back to the vet. You may be able to give your dog its medication in food so that it's less resistant to it. Your vet may prescribe your dog antifungal topical medications and ear washes if your dog has a yeast infection. If your dog has allergies that are causing its ear infection, your vet may prescribe steroids. If your dog is in pain, your vet may prescribe anti-inflammatory pain medications. Expect the vet to keep the dog overnight for severe infections. This usually only happens if the infection has gotten very serious. The vet will need to give the dog antibiotics and monitor its condition. Although you might worry about leaving your dog at the vet, it can help the dog recover faster. You can be sure that your dog is getting the care it needs to feel better! In some cases, the dog may need to stay in the vet's office for a few days. This will only happen if your dog is very ill. An ear infection that has lasted for a long time could cause neurologic issues in the dog. The vet may test for neurologic issues while the dog is staying in their office. Take your dog to the vet for a check up. After your dog is diagnosed and prescribed treatment, you'll need to take it back to the vet for a check up. The vet will make sure that your dog has fully recovered. Your vet may need to do more diagnostic tests if they believe the dog still has an infection. Allow the vet to surgically drain the dog’s ears for chronic infections. Very rarely, the vet may need to do minor surgery on your dog. It sounds scary, but it's a relatively simple procedure. Your dog will not experience any pain or discomfort. This may happen if your dog has frequent, recurring ear infections. Your vet will discuss this option with you if they recommend it. In rare and serious cases, vets perform a surgery called total ear canal ablation (TECA) to remove the infected tissue in the ear.	Notice if your dog is scratching its ear. Watch for head shaking or tilting. Examine the ear to check for brown, yellow, or bloody discharge. Smell the ear to see if it has an odor. Look for swelling, redness, or scabs. Watch for loss of coordination or walking in circles. Watch for vomiting. Take your dog to the vet. Allow the vet to examine your dog’s ear canal and ear drum. Expect your vet to take a sample of the discharge using a swab. Agree to other diagnostic tests if necessary. Allow the vet to clean out your dog’s ear. Give your dog its medication if the vet prescribes one. Expect the vet to keep the dog overnight for severe infections. Take your dog to the vet for a check up. Allow the vet to surgically drain the dog’s ears for chronic infections.
https://www.wikihow.com/Get-Started-Dog-Mushing	How to Get Started Dog Mushing	If you want to get started in dog mushing, attend races in-person or watch them online so you can get a better feel for the sport. Then, offer your help to other mushers either in-person or online via the Sled Dog Central website so you can learn how to train sled dogs. During this training phase, start figuring out how much you will need to spend on dogs, equipment, and housing in order to start your own team. When you're ready to form your own team, use online listing websites to find affordable sled dogs.	Look into beginner dog sled trips. Look online for entry-level dog sledding expeditions where there is no experience or gear required. Courses can range from simple dogsled trips to dog sledding courses, ski camping, and private "drive your own team" dog mushing. Research your options online to customize your ideal trip. For instance, Wintergreen Dogsled Lodge in Minnesota offers a range of packages, including a 5-day intensive dog sledding trip where participants receive a complete training in dog sledding and winter survival skills. Attend races. A good way to get a feel for dog mushing is to observe it firsthand at an event or race. Consider visiting Alaska, where dog sledding has been the national sport since 1972, for the annual Iditarod race - a dog sledding competition that attracts tourists from across the globe. Outside of the Iditarod, smaller races take place fairly regularly, sometimes on downtown streets during festivals or events. Visit the website for Anchorage, Alaska's largest city, at https://www.anchorage.net/ to keep up to date on what races might happening on different dates. Visit a sled dog kennel. An integral part of mushing is getting close to the sled dogs that will be pulling you, and understanding how they live. In addition to dog sled rides or demonstrations, many mushers will offer tours of their sled dog kennels to visitors. For instance, the Happy Trails dog kennels in Alaska "owned by four-time Iditarod Champion Martin Buser" offer the chance to meet 30-60 sled dogs. Visitors do not get sled rides, but instead can observe a short, six dog sled run and have photo ops with the team. Go to mushing school. For intensive lessons in dog sledding, consider taking classes at a mushing school. Opt for a school or organization that does not require you to own your own sled dogs or equipment. Be sure to research the school's credentials or get referrals from other mushers before signing up. For example, the Noble Paws mushing school in Fairbanks, Alaska, teaches participants how to run their own sled dog team ($100 for two 90 minute sessions). Join a dog mushing association. There are dozens of dog sled associations across the US which aim to promote mushing and unite members who are passionate about the hobby, sport, and sled dogs. Requirements for membership vary between clubs, but may be open to sled racers, spectators, and volunteers alike in some cases. Visit http://www.sleddogcentral.com/clubs_usa.htm for a list of sled dog associations in the US. For example, the Colorado Mountain Mushers Association offers membership to both individuals and families (for $25 or $35 a year, respectively), in their capacity as either mushers or volunteers at races and events. Help train sled dogs. It can take several years to train sled dogs, so mushers often welcome help from others interested in the hobby. Ask mushers at races if they need help, or visit the Sled Dog Central website at http://www.sleddogcentral.com/beginners/mentor_list_usa_states.htm for a list of mushing mentors from across the country. Helping to train dogs will provide critical experience with sled dogs and mushing without the commitment of having your own team, or the responsibility of vet and food bills. You can also offer to work as a handler for mushers, cooking and feeding dogs, and helping with other tasks in preparation for races. This kind of mentorship will also teach you everything you need to know about the equipment, training, and time necessary to start your own dog team. Wait to start your own dog sled team. Getting into the sport of dog mushing should not mean rushing to put together your own sled team, which is a tremendous undertaking. It is best to spend at least a year or two participating in dog sledding and getting acclimated with all aspects of the sport, including taking care of sled dogs , before committing to it long-term. You can use this initial period when you start dog sledding to weigh the pros and cons and make a decision. Figure out equipment costs. As part of your reflection process, look up the prices for harnesses, tug lines, gang-lines, necklines and booties for your potential dog sled team. Find a local musher whom you can talk to and learn the equipment basics from. They can also advise you as to what equipment would be best for your needs. Save money for land. A big consideration in deciding whether or not to run your own dog sled team is whether you have (or can obtain) enough land to house the dogs. A suitable dog yard for 10 sled dogs will require at least 1,000 square feet of pens. Be realistic and start saving money as soon as possible if you intend to pursue mushing with your own team. Find dogs for your sled team. The best way to find sled dogs to add to your team is to ask other mushers if they know of any for sale. Network and meet other mushers at races or mushing association get togethers, or consult online listings and internet sled dog groups. Ideally, you should look for already-trained sled dogs who are relaxed, happy, hard-working, and spayed or neutered. Contact large operation tour guide mushers, big kennels, shelters, and rescue groups to see if they have any sled dogs available. Make wise purchases. Always visit a sled dog that you are thinking of buying at its current dwelling before bringing it home. Check out the conditions it's being kept in, and look for signs of illness, injury, or an aggressive personality (e.g. dogs who move slowly or appear sullen). Be weary of owners who may be trying to unload a dog they no longer want on you; a good musher and owner will do their best to make sure their dog is a good match for you and your team. Ask the owner if they will take the dog back if it is not a fit for your team. This will make the decision process a lot simpler. Plan your dogs’ accommodations. Starting a dog team means housing your sled dogs, which is a big commitment of time and money. If you are planning to house the dogs in your home, plan spacing accordingly (e.g. where to feed them and have them sleep). Sturdy sled dog breeds like Huskies can live outside in cold temperatures, but a kennel to house them will require a vast amount of space (10 sled dogs require 1,000 square feet of pens, or 1,450 square feet for tethers) and a significant amount of cleaning and upkeep. Ask other mushers for advice, contacts (e.g. a company to install fencing), and price estimates for building a kennel. Even mushers who primarily house their sled dogs indoors require some sort of outdoor confinement system. Purchase mushing equipment. Be sure to equip your sled team with high-quality gear to get off to a good start. Ask other mushers for advice about the most reliable brand and equipment options. If money is an issue, look in local ads or online for second-hand mushing equipment, which should include: A lightweight, sturdy sled Harnesses Dog booties Dog jackets Thermal gear Bond with your team. Patience and practice are key for streamlining your sled dog team. Allow bonding time for you and your dogs (e.g. devote time to spending time outdoors playing with your new sled dogs) and take advantage of your dogs' natural instinct to pull to make training a fun experience. If the process does not happen naturally as you continue taking your dogs out to practice, enlist the aid of a fellow musher who might have advice on how to get your team into gear. Note that your new sled dogs will need time to get accustomed to the sound of your voice, and to build trust. Teach basic commands. Teach or reinforce basic commands to establish your dominance non-violently, and to gain your dogs' respect and trust. To start, review and practice the five basic commands:"Sit”,"Stay", "Lay down”, ”Heel”, and "Come here.” Visit the American Kennel Club website at http://www.akc.org/content/dog-training/articles/teach-your-puppy-these-5-basic-commands/ for instructional details and videos. Practice extensively. The most important part of training a dog team is to get the dogs to learn each other's rhythms and work together. To achieve this, run the dogs as much as possible for practice before events or races. If your team slows down at difficult points (e.g. steep hills), be firm and make them work harder to get over the hurdles. This is the best way to ensure that they will not be overwhelmed during a race, and less likely to hesitate in such situations in the future. Always reward your dogs' perseverance and accomplishments with ample praise.	Look into beginner dog sled trips. Attend races. Visit a sled dog kennel. Go to mushing school. Join a dog mushing association. Help train sled dogs. Wait to start your own dog sled team. Figure out equipment costs. Save money for land. Find dogs for your sled team. Make wise purchases. Plan your dogs’ accommodations. Purchase mushing equipment. Bond with your team. Teach basic commands. Practice extensively.
https://www.wikihow.com/Clean-a-Stainless-Steel-Dishwasher	How to Clean a Stainless Steel Dishwasher	To clean the outside of a stainless steel dishwasher, look closely at the steel to try to find the grain. The flecks and striations in the steel will all be lined up the same way, either side-to-side, up and down, or diagonally. Once you identify the grain, wipe down the stainless steel with a damp, soapy cloth, always moving the cloth in the direction of the grain. After you wash it, use a dry sponge or dishcloth to dry the dishwasher, still moving in the direction of the grain. Do not use abrasive cleaning materials or harsh chemicals like chlorine on your dishwasher.	Locate the grain of the stainless steel. Stainless steel dishwashers and other products have a differentiated surface, with small flecks or striations in it. These flecks or striations are collectively known as the grain of the stainless steel. Conduct a close visual inspection of your stainless steel dishwasher to determine what direction the grain is oriented in. It might be up/down, left/right, or diagonally oriented. Wash the outside of the dishwasher. Dip a sponge or dishcloth in warm, soapy water. Move it along the surface of the stainless steel dishwasher in a motion consistent with its grain. For instance, if the grain of your stainless steel dishwasher is oriented up/down, wipe with your sponge or dishcloth using an up/down motion. If you wish, you could substitute a specially-formulated stainless steel cleaning product for warm, soapy water. Bar Keeper's Friend, for instance, is a popular product. Dry the stainless steel dishwasher. Once you've washed the stainless steel dishwasher, use a dry sponge or dishcloth to dry it. Wipe away the warm, soapy water by moving the cloth or sponge along the direction of the dishwasher's grain. In other words, if the grain of your stainless steel dishwasher is oriented in an up/down direction, move the dry cloth or sponge in an up/down direction. Do not use abrasive cleaning materials. Cleaning solutions that contain chlorine should not be used to clean the exterior of your stainless steel dishwasher. This could cause corrosion. Likewise, do not use steel wool or other harsh cloths, as doing this could lead to scratching the surface. Run the garbage disposal. Your stainless steel dishwasher drains into the same pipe your sink does. To keep the drain clear and effectively drain the water from the stainless steel dishwasher, run your garbage disposal before you start cleaning it. Check the drain. Remove the bottom rack on your stainless steel dishwasher. Examine it for clumps of debris that might cause it to drain improperly. Remove anything that might be clogging the drain. If you can easily access the drain, scrub it with some soapy water to clean it. Run the wash with vinegar. Fill a dishwasher-safe cup on the top rack of the stainless steel dishwasher with vinegar. Slide the rack back in the stainless steel dishwasher and close the door. With only the cupful of vinegar inside, turn the stainless steel dishwasher on and run it on the highest water temperature setting. The vinegar will help loosen grease and grime, and remove any odor that the dishwasher might have acquired. Use distilled white vinegar or specialized cleaning vinegar. Wash again with baking soda. When the first wash cycle is done, sprinkle the bottom of the stainless steel dishwasher with baking soda. Run the dishwasher on a short cycle with water at the highest temperature. Baking soda will help you remove stains from your dishwasher. Wipe the edges along the door. Check the area around the dishwasher door for debris and grime. Some dishwashers cannot adequately clean this area, which leads to an accumulation of yucky material. If you see anything, use a damp cloth to wipe the area down. Additionally, use a damp cotton swab to clean along the ridges of the seal. Wash the filter. The stainless steel dishwasher's filter collects prevents large debris from entering the drain. You'll probably have to use a screwdriver to remove the screws that hold the grate in place. Some newer stainless steel dishwashers, however, have filters that simply pop out when turned. Rinse the filter in your sink under warm water. Dip a soft-bristled toothbrush in warm, soapy water. Use the toothbrush to scrub the filter until clean. Replace it after cleaning. Not every stainless steel dishwasher has a filter. If you can access the filter in your dishwasher, try to clean it every 3 months. Clean the utensil rack. The utensil rack is a small container attached to the dishwasher rack. You might have just one, or one on each rack. Remove it and rinse it in the sink beneath warm water. Use a sponge dampened with warm, soapy water to clean the inside and outside of the utensil rack. If the utensil rack does not detach, just clean it inside and outside with a damp sponge or dishcloth. Do not use bleach to clean your stainless steel dishwasher. Stainless steel is pretty tough, but bleach can cause it to corrode. Instead, use a milder substance like dishwasher-safe detergent. Remove the spray arms. Most stainless steel dishwashers have two spray arms – one beneath each rack of the dishwasher. Pull each rack out. Untwist the spray arms by loosening the central bolt that holds them in place. They generally twist off quite easily by hand. The top spray arm is usually affixed to the bottom of the top dish rack. The lower spray arm is usually affixed to the bottom of the dishwasher itself. Rinse the spray arms off. Take the spray arms to your sink. Run them under warm water. Be sure to get water in the central hole and along the entire length of each spray arm. Use a toothpick to clean the spray holes. Along the top side of each spray arm is a series of small holes. When the stainless steel dishwasher is in operation, water is ejected from these holes. But over time, they might become clogged with gunk. To keep them clear, poke a toothpick through each hole to get them clean. There are usually eight to ten spray holes on each spray arm.	Locate the grain of the stainless steel. Wash the outside of the dishwasher. Dry the stainless steel dishwasher. Do not use abrasive cleaning materials. Run the garbage disposal. Check the drain. Run the wash with vinegar. Wash again with baking soda. Wipe the edges along the door. Wash the filter. Clean the utensil rack. Do not use bleach to clean your stainless steel dishwasher. Remove the spray arms. Rinse the spray arms off. Use a toothpick to clean the spray holes.
https://www.wikihow.com/Keep-Poinsettias-Growing-To-Next-Christmas	How to Keep Poinsettias Growing To Next Christmas	If you look after your poinsettia properly, you should be able to keep it growing until next Christmas. During warm weather, you can keep your poinsettia outdoors in the shade, but you'll need to bring it inside for the fall and winter. During cold weather, keep it in a cool room with indirect sunlight. Make sure you let the soil dry before watering it again, since poinsettias don't need as much water during colder weather. Sprinkle some plant fertilizer on its soil every 2 weeks to give it a nutrients boost. If you spot bugs on your poinsettia, dab them with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol to avoid an infestation.	Inspect the plant for bugs (most plants won't show bugs in the greenhouse but they will show up after about two weeks in the home). If the plant is infected, it is best to throw it out and purchase another for keeping over. If you want to keep over that particular plant, several applications of soapy water to the plant and potting soil should rid it of most infestations. Mealy bugs are the main concern and can be removed by dabbing them with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol. However, this should be done before the infection spreads or gets too large or you may never kill them all. Place the plant in a cool (not cold) room with curtain filtered sunlight and cut back on the watering. The plant should be allowed to go dry to the touch between watering and be watered only sparingly (over-watering is the leading cause of plant death in the winter months inside, the plant is not actively growing and is not taking up the normal food it would during the growing season, and if watered to much the plant will end up sitting in water and problems like moss, mold, rot and leaf yellow may accrue). When the temperatures at night get above 10 C, the plant can then be moved outside. Decide what kind of plant you want to end up with for Christmas. If a small bushy plant is your goal, the entire plant should be trimmed down to about "inches above the main trunk. If you want a larger plant, simply pinch the tops of each main branch and continue this until about July. If a topiary is your goal, then remove all of the branches except for the tallest, straightest main branch and do not pinch the plant on the top, just remove the side shoots for the remainder of the season. Do not set the plant in full sun at first. Doing this will cause what leaves are left to scorch and fall off and may kill the weakened plant. Place the plant in full shade then move the plant out of the shade in two weeks to part shade then two weeks later to full or part sun for the remainder of the season. This will allow the plant to harden off and get used to the new conditions outside. Start watering regularly. Fertilize every fifth watering or every two weeks (whichever comes last) with a poinsettia fertilizer or house plant fertilizer. Or, if you would like, try a diluted evergreen fertilizer to help promote leaf growth (at this stage all you want is leaf growth, no flowers). When it is time to bring the plant in for fall, start the processes of turning the top leaves red (or pink or whatever color they were last winter). This process can take up to 2 months and sometimes longer, depending on conditions and the variety of plant you have. Switch from a nitrogen based fertilizer to an even houseplant fertilizer or one made for poinsettias, and reduce fertilizing by half. Begin the routine of long nights/short days needed to initiate buds: 13 hours of uninterrupted darkness, 11 hours of bright sunshine each day. Keep temperatures in the low 60's at night. Turn pot regularly for even light. (Note: Darkness must be total - light from a street lamp or even that cast by headlights from passing cars is enough to disrupt bud formation.) Discontinue darkness routine after about 2 months and place plant in the sunniest window in the house. Reduce fertilizer: don't over water! Grow outdoors when possible. Depending on your climate, poinsettias tend to due better outside than in, so grow them outside where they get partial shade in the afternoon. If it gets too hot and dry, their growth might slow. Be realistic about the plant's appearance. You will never get that "store bought" look again, as they are literally tree sapping. If you want some "store bought" looking plants, take cuttings from your plants (don't worry you can still flower the parent plants too) from late April, up until you bring them inside to flower. You can use rooting hormone, but poinsettias seem to root well in just compost (such as compost made from yard waste like grass clippings). Focus on the timing of the flowering. Depending on when you want the poinsettia to be fully flowering and how you intend to care for them after flowering, determines on when you start flowering them. If you want them in full bloom by Thanksgiving, start on October 1st and by Halloween for Christmas. You can start earlier, but you need to maintain light timing to keep them flowering throughout the season. Put the plants in a dark room, closet or cabinet. Choose a spot which is lightproof, for the most part. Use warm white CFLs or warm white fluorescent tubes. It's necessary to use "warm white" as opposed to regular grow lights because the plant needs the extra red light; this, plus the timing, will ensure flowering. Make sure you have enough light too. One 26watt CFL (100watt equivalent) for two or more plants won't be enough. Use one 26 watt CFL per cutting about 1 and 1/2 feet above them to just 1 foot (0.3 m). Make sure you can adjust the height, as they will grow fast during flowering. HPS lights can be used too. Be careful with HPS lights though, as local law enforcement might think you are flowering another Mexican plant with the same light cycle! HPS light give off signatures they use to help track unlawful botanists. Set the timing. Set the timing to suit. A good one is to use standard banking hours, 9am to 5pm. Do not disturb the plants when the lights are off. While 14 hours of darkness is said to be enough, 16 hours works every time (with warm white). Check for flowering indicators. The first signs they have begun to flower is what you might call "rusting out". This is when the top leaves quite literally "rust out" as they think it's fall. Leave the plant under the light until it has fully flowered. You may want to leave the plant in your makeshift nursery the whole season and bring it out for company and the day of the holiday you want to display it. Even the plants you buy this year would benefit and be a good plant to make cutting from next year, so put them in the nursery too. Avoid letting the plant have more than 10 hours of light a day. This will keep it flowering long after the season is over. Take good care of it: keep the plant watered properly, keep it away from whiteflies, and give it plenty of light during its day cycle. Given this care, the plant can flower well past Mother's Day! If the plant is still flowering for too long, put it under light with 24 hours of on time to get it to vegetate. You may find that some plants will still have flower buds on when you place them outside for the summer.	Inspect the plant for bugs (most plants won't show bugs in the greenhouse but they will show up after about two weeks in the home). If you want to keep over that particular plant, several applications of soapy water to the plant and potting soil should rid it of most infestations. Place the plant in a cool (not cold) room with curtain filtered sunlight and cut back on the watering. Decide what kind of plant you want to end up with for Christmas. Do not set the plant in full sun at first. Start watering regularly. When it is time to bring the plant in for fall, start the processes of turning the top leaves red (or pink or whatever color they were last winter). Grow outdoors when possible. Be realistic about the plant's appearance. Focus on the timing of the flowering. Put the plants in a dark room, closet or cabinet. Use warm white CFLs or warm white fluorescent tubes. Set the timing. Check for flowering indicators. Avoid letting the plant have more than 10 hours of light a day.
https://www.wikihow.com/Play-Strip-War	How to Play Strip War	Strip War is a fun, adult card game that can make an exciting date night in. The aim of the game is to win your partners cards and get them to take all of their clothes off. Before you start, make sure you're both wearing the same number of clothes so the game will be fair. To set up the game, shuffle a deck of cards and deal them evenly between you. To play, you'll both need to reveal the top card of your pile at the same time. The player with the highest card wins both cards and puts them on the bottom of their pile, while the loser has to remove an item of clothing. If you turn over the same card, you both have to place one card face-down, then another face-up. The winner takes all 4 cards, and the loser takes off an item of clothing. Keep playing until one player is naked or wearing only underwear.	Pick your opponent. This is a raunchy game, so you'll want to play with someone you're comfortable with! War is typically played with just two people, but feel free to play with more. While regular War isn't much of a party game, Strip war is an excellent one! War also pairs nicely with your significant other and a bottle of wine. Consider making your next date night a game night. Count your articles of clothing. Make sure you and your opponent are wearing the same number of items so you have the same amount of pieces to lose. It's also important to determine which pieces of clothing are fair game. For example, it's a pretty uneven (and boring) game if one person is removing socks and jewelry while the other is taking off their shirt and pants! Figure out what people realistically will and will not take off. If not everyone feels comfortable removing everything, indicate that now. Shuffle the deck and deal each person 26 cards. Keep the cards facing down so neither you nor your opponent knows which cards you have. Arrange your cards into a neat stack in front of you. The cards that you're flipping over should be a surprise to both you and your opponent. It makes the game much more exciting when neither of you know what to expect. Determine the hierarchy of all the cards. The numerical cards are self-explanatory. The royal cards rank King, Queen, and then Jack from highest to lowest. The card typically in question is the ace. Decide with your opponent if it should be the very lowest card (1) or the highest card, above the King. Flip over the top card in your stack as your opponent does the same. Whoever has the highest card of the two takes both cards and places them in a separate stack next to them. Continue doing this as you go through your entire stack of cards. Once you run out of cards in your deck, pick up the stack of cards you've won and continue with that deck. This continues until someone has won the entire deck. Remove an article of clothing when you lose a hand. In other words, you strip when you've completely run out of clothing to remove. It's up to you and your opponent to decide which articles of clothing are removed, and in what order. You can plan the order in which articles of clothing are removed, i.e. shirt, then pants, then undergarments. If you're feeling trusting, you can let the winner choose what article of clothing the loser has to remove. Play until someone has removed all of their clothing. Because only one article of clothing is removed per hand, this method of Strip War requires lots of time. It is guaranteed to be raunchy, however, because you play until someone is completely naked! Set up as if you were playing a normal game of war. Shuffle the deck and deal each person 26 cards. Count your articles of clothing to ensure that you and your opponent are wearing the same number of items. With your stack of cards face down, begin playing by flipping a card. Whoever has the higher card takes both. Go to “war” if you and your opponent play cards of the same rank. Anytime you put down equal cards, e.g. if you both put down Queens or both put down sevens, you have to play War to break the tie. You and your opponent both put down the next card in your stack face down, and the following card face up. Whoever has the higher face-up card takes all six cards that are now on the table. If the face-up cards are the same, play War again until someone has a higher card. Remove an article of clothing if you lose a War tiebreaker. You and your opponent can either plan which articles of clothing are removed in which order, or you can let the winner of the tiebreaker decide which article of clothing the loser must remove. If the first tiebreaker face-up cards match and there has to be a second tiebreaker, the loser has to remove two articles of clothing. The same goes for three consecutive tiebreakers, and so on. Play until someone has won all of the cards in the deck. This goal of this version of Strip War is the same as regular War, and it takes less time than the first method of Strip War because only one game is played. Because you do not know how many tiebreakers you may have in a game, you may end up stripping off multiple articles of clothing or none at all. This may be an advantage or a disadvantage, depending on how you look at it. Shuffle and deal the cards evenly among the players. Because there are 52 cards in a deck, they can't always be perfectly divided among multiple players. Make sure that everyone is starting with the same number of cards, and put whatever spare cards to the side. If there are three players, everyone gets 17 cards and there is one spare. With four people, everyone gets 13 cards. With five people, everyone gets 10 and there are 2 spare cards. Count the articles of clothing everyone is wearing. Everyone needs to be wearing the same amount of clothing in order to start off on an equal playing field. As a group, decide the order that clothes will come off. Flip the top card over. Whoever has the highest card gets to keep every single card on the table. Additionally, the person to win the first play gets to take the spare cards, if there are any. With more people playing, the more cards you can win. There is also a higher chance of having to go into a War tiebreaker with multiple players. Go to “war” if you and anyone else plays cards of the same rank. Everyone goes to War, not just the players with matching cards. Each player places a card face down, and the following card face up. Whoever has the highest face-up card takes all the cards in play. The losers of the tiebreaker all have to remove one article of clothing, either predetermined or chosen by the winner. Everyone other than the one winner of the tiebreaker ends up stripping. Play until someone has won all of the cards in the deck. Odds are that there will be multiple tiebreakers needed with several cards being played at once. However, you may want to play multiple games so that you can guarantee everyone gets sufficiently nude! Players that run out of cards are removed from the game.	Pick your opponent. Count your articles of clothing. Shuffle the deck and deal each person 26 cards. Determine the hierarchy of all the cards. Flip over the top card in your stack as your opponent does the same. Remove an article of clothing when you lose a hand. Play until someone has removed all of their clothing. Set up as if you were playing a normal game of war. Go to “war” if you and your opponent play cards of the same rank. Remove an article of clothing if you lose a War tiebreaker. Play until someone has won all of the cards in the deck. Shuffle and deal the cards evenly among the players. Count the articles of clothing everyone is wearing. Flip the top card over. Go to “war” if you and anyone else plays cards of the same rank. Play until someone has won all of the cards in the deck.
https://www.wikihow.com/Take-Your-Mind-off-Things	How to Take Your Mind off Things	To take your mind off of something, do something that you really enjoy, whether it's reading a good book, cooking a new recipe, or listening to your favorite music. Doing an activity you enjoy can help distract you from whatever it is you don't want to think about. You can also try exercising, like going for a run or doing some yoga. Exercise shifts your focus from your mind to your body, and it releases endorphins that put you in a better mood. If you can't fall asleep because you keep thinking about something unpleasant, try writing down your thoughts in a journal. Getting your thoughts down on paper can help clear your mind so it's easier to drift off. If nothing else is working, consider talking to someone you trust about what's going on. Avoiding unpleasant thoughts can sometimes make them worse, and talking about how you feel with someone might help you feel better.	Confront your anxieties. While it may seem counter intuitive, the best way to take your mind off of problems in the long term is to confront and overcome them. Otherwise, the same issues will continue to crop up and cause anxiety until they are dealt with. Ruminating -- a tendency to replay anxious thoughts over and over in your mind -- is a mental habit that has to be broken. Begin by allowing yourself to consider the root source of your anxious thoughts. What is the scenario you fear most, and why do you worry about it? After you have identified the source of your anxiety, let yourself imagine the worst-case scenario. Often we let open-ended scenarios frighten us, when in reality we can handle the worst-case scenario. Ask yourself, what is the worst thing that can happen, and can I handle it? Set a time limit on worrying. It is impossible to force yourself to not worry about your problems, especially if the problems present real challenges to your daily life (like finances or relationships). Giving yourself a set time period each day to worry can help you find freedom the rest of the day. Schedule 20-30 minutes at the same time every day to think about the issues that worry you. Remind yourself at other times that it is not the time to worry. Be sure your "worry period" is early enough in the day that it does not interfere with your sleep. Consider meditation. Contrary to what you might see on TV, meditation doesn't have to be complicated, spooky, or mystical. Lots of ordinary people practice simple varieties of meditation to help calm their minds. Meditation is about developing the discipline to quiet or focus your mind. Start by sitting in a comfortable, quiet room free of distractions. Sit in a position that is comfortable for you, but keep a straight back and good posture. Use a chair if you prefer. Close your eyes gently and breathe naturally in and out through your nose. Focus your attention on the way the air feels entering your nose, then your throat, then your lungs; and then on how it feels leaving again. If you find it hard to focus on your breath and your mind starts to wander, just gently redirect your thoughts back to your breath. You can do this for just a few minutes and then gradually increase the time you spend clearing your mind. Do some yoga. Like meditation, yoga is a common but often misunderstood mind and body exercise that many people use to calm and center themselves after a long day. Like meditation, it can be relaxing and quieting, but unlike meditation it also involves a sometimes-rigorous exercise component that helps to keep you in shape and makes you actively focus on things other than whatever is bothering you. Try investigating a yoga studio in your area. Many studios will allow you to take a class for no charge to see if it's a good fit for you. If you can't afford classes in a studio or gym, consider your local community center or YMCA, which often have yoga and other classes at a discount or on a pay-per-class basis. If group classes are not right for you, purchase a DVD series or try YouTube lessons. These can be just as effective as a course in a studio, and when you learn the moves well enough, you can do them without the video. Hide your triggers. Whatever it is that is bothering you, distracting you, or stressing you out, put it somewhere out of the way for a while and ignore it. If you just got home from work, hide your laptop, your phone, those bills that are overdue, and all the other things that you associate with working. If you just broke up with someone, clear out all the things that remind you of that person. Make it too difficult to think about the things that are bothering you. For many people who struggle with general anxiety, avoiding television or internet news feeds can help, since the news is often sensationalized to capitalize on your worries. Go for a hike. Spending time in a park, the woods, around a lake, or in a nearby meadow can help ground you to your surroundings, keeping your mind off troubling things. In addition to benefits to your physical health, spending time outdoors has been shown to improve concentration and increase reported levels of happiness. It's important that you don't allow your time outdoors to become a place to dwell on the issues that are bothering you. During your hikes, pause to notice the texture of the grass or the changing light on a tree or mountain, the ripples of a lake. Sets of serenity can be built in our minds and they are places where we can go more simply in our minds. Remember this. If you find it hard to focus on your surroundings and your mind wanders back to your troubles, consider setting out on your walk or hike with a specific purpose in mind, such as collecting interesting seed pods, identifying various types of birds, or tracking wildlife. Having a task to do can help refocus your attention. Listen to music. Music is a great way to just let loose and dance, or meditate and relax. Whatever style of music you favor, listening actively can help clear your mind and leave you feeling refreshed. Music with slow, methodical beats can put you in a meditative state and has been shown to reduce stress and anxiety much like hypnosis and meditation. Alternately, if you don't want to relax but still need a distraction, try listening to music with complicated lyrics that you'll have to follow closely. Staying closely engaged will help to keep your mind off other things. Check out Leonard Cohen, Patty Smith, Bill Callahan, or Vic Chesnutt. Read a good book. Using literature to improve your mental health is known as bibliotherapy, and it is a surprisingly effective way to clear your mind of your own issues and focus on someone else's story. Pick a book in a genre that you find interesting and allow yourself to be immersed in the lives of the characters. Try looking at your local library or check out www.goodreads.com for suggestions from other readers. Exercise. If you're not doing anything, it's hard to keep your mind from the issues you want to avoid. Additionally, exercise has been shown to relieve stress, reduce anxiety, and ward off depression. Find a type of physical exercise that you enjoy, whether it be aerobics at the gym or shooting hoops at the park. Read more about the following great methods of exercise that you can do all yourself: Lift weights Circuit train Jog Swim Play basketball Box Volunteer your time. One great way to get your mind off your own problems is to focus on serving others. Call up your local homeless shelter, animal shelter, food bank, or other organization. Every community has ways to get involved. Studies show that volunteering 100 hours a year increases overall feelings of satisfaction with life, provides a buffer for stress, and even improves physical health. Try out a new recipe. You can engage your mind, your hands, and your taste-buds. Find a delicious new recipe that you'd like to try, get all the ingredients, and start cooking. And if you don't want to put on the pounds from your cooking explorations, donate it to a family in need in your community. Try out some of these great recipes: Braise beef Make a casserole Bake a pie Make fried chicken Make vegan cupcakes Make something. Instead of focusing on the issues that are bothering you, do something productive with your time that will keep both your hands and your mind busy. Pick a project that you've always wanted to try. Draw a picture , or paint. Even if you don't consider yourself an artist, spending some time doing Bob Ross imitations or launching paint at a canvas Jackson Pollock-style can be a great way to unwind. Make small collages with newspaper, magazines, and other found-photo cutouts. You can then turn these collages into postcards and send them to your friends. Write in your diary or journal , or write a story , or try out your poetry skills. Writing is a great way to get your mind off of things, so long as you choose a different topic to write about than the one you're trying to avoid. . Clean the house Get out the vacuum, cleaning products, and clean up your living space. Cleaning your living space can symbolize a fresh start and help you refocus your energy on improving your own living area. In fact, living in a messy space can cause feelings of stress that can be overwhelming. Start with a quick clean, tidying everything up, throwing away garbage, and straightening generally. Then, go into your deeper clean mode, vacuuming, dusting, and scrubbing. Throw away anything that is broken or unusable and donate anything that works but you no longer need. Call your friends. One way of taking your mind off things is to be with other people. Don't let yourself spend time being distracted and depressed alone. Call some friends and plan to do something together, or get some close friends to come over and have a movie night , a dinner party, or play a game of some sort. You may want to take your mind off things, but you may also want to talk out the thing that's bothering you or distracting you. If you're feeling upset over a break-up, a recent disappointment, or some other issue, it might be a good idea to have some sympathetic friends to talk with instead, rather than distract. Spend time with family. Whether you live at home or not, whether you have a big family or a small family, whether you are close with your family or not, spending some quality time with your family can help take your mind off other things. Organize plans to do something out with your family, or you could just head to the homestead and spend time at home. Even if you're just eating dinner and watching television, doing it with your family can be more relaxing and comforting than anything else. Head to a public place. If your family and friends are busy, consider heading to a public place and just being around people. Even if you don't want to sit somewhere and try to talk to strangers, people watching can be a nice way of keeping your mind off things. Head to the library, a coffee house, a bar, a local park, or a record store to socialize or people-watch. While it's true that bars can be great neighborhood hangouts and places to socialize over a few drinks, drinking is not recommended as a way to distract your mind, as it can lead to serious problems with alcohol dependency. Go to the bar to socialize, not to drink your trouble away. Write an old-fashioned letter or postcard to distant friends. If you can't have your friends come to you, send something to your friends. Write up a letter to get in touch, asking questions to help catch up and filling your friend in on your own life. Want to go really old school? Make a mix tape and send it to a friend in the mail.	Confront your anxieties. Set a time limit on worrying. Consider meditation. Do some yoga. Hide your triggers. Go for a hike. Listen to music. Read a good book. Exercise. Volunteer your time. Try out a new recipe. Make something. . Call your friends. Spend time with family. Head to a public place. Write an old-fashioned letter or postcard to distant friends.
https://www.wikihow.com/Wear-White-Jeans	How to Wear White Jeans	To wear white jeans, choose a style that complements your figure, keeping in mind that while black has a slimming effect, white has the opposite effect. For example, if you're curvy, go with straight-legged white jeans with a high, contoured waistline to highlight your figure. If you have an athletic build, embellishments on the back pockets can create a fuller appearance. Experiment with bright colors and patterns when choosing a top, since white bottoms create a great backdrop for color.	Explore various prints with your white jeans. The solid color of white jeans will provide an excellent anchor for different patterns and prints. Some designs you might try with your white jeans are: Plaid Horizontal patterns Pinstripe lines Try your jeans with tie-dye. The white of your jeans can offer nice counterpoint to a stylish, tie-dyed tank top. Match your accessories to the primary color in your tie-dye top, and consider: Matching heeled sandals A matching handbag Test drive your white jeans with an oxford shirt. A men's oxford shirt with rolled up sleeves and the top button left popped is a simple way to complement your white jeans. Some heels that match your main accent color, like black, can add some extra flavor to this look. Experiment with colors. White is very versatile, and depending on your complexion, many colors might go well with your white jeans. Your look might pair well with a similarly light colors, like a light colored denim. Add an accent color with pop, like mustard yellow or lime green. Repeating designs, like stripes and polka dots, can work well too, especially if the pattern has some white in it. Neon colors should not be discounted; a neon color will be as bright and beautiful as your white pants. A solid colored shirt with an accompanying set of boldly colored beads might be just what you were looking for. Create a dressy look with your white jeans. Compliment your white jeans with the ever trendy colors black and gold. You might consider a black top in lace or chiffon ti give an extra touch of elegance, though a black blouse and lace trim might look smashing as well! Finish your dressy white jeans look off with gold accessories and stylish black heels. To create better cohesion between the black and white colors of your outfit, consider shoes that have a black and white color scheme. Determine your body type. The shape of your legs and rear will influence the kind of jeans that are most flattering for your figures. You should also keep in mind that where black has a slimming effect, white tends to give the impression greater fullness. Look at the following list and choose the shape that best matches your body: Straight figured individuals will have a chest and waist that are roughly the same size, with an only slightly tapered waist. Hourglass figured individuals have an equivalent chest and hips with a well defined, smaller waist. Full hips and large thighed individuals will have fuller, more curvaceous lower body. Play up your curves for straight figures. You can accomplish this by choosing a pair of jeans that make use of pocket decorations, like stitching. Flaps and other stylish embellishments to the back pockets will give your bum a perkier appeal. You should try to distance yourself from bell shaped white jeans or pairs that make use of flared designs. These can throw off the natural symmetry of your figure. Bypass straight cut waists for hourglass figures. A straight cut along the waist of your pants can create a gaping appearance or discomfort for your hourglass figure. A contoured waistband will save you from this fashion faux pas. You might also try on a pair of straight-leg jeans. These can bring balance to hourglass figures. Keep away from jeans too wide-legged in cut. These can give a boyish impression to your figure. Find a higher rise in the back for full legs and thighs. A pair that has both a contoured waist band and a higher rise to its cut in back than in front will contain your curves in the most flattering way. The better fit of this cut will also prevent the jeans from sliding down. Legs that are tapered can not only be uncomfortable for this body type, but the slimming effect of a taper will make your thighs appear even larger. Counterbalance your tummy with a front rise in the waist. White jeans that rise in front will prevent the appearance of the dreaded "muffin top." With this cut of jeans, you can still rock the white jean-style! Pants that are stiff and have little give to the fabric can dig into your stomach and feel uncomfortable. These cuts should be avoided. Try your potential purchase before paying. Sometimes even the classiest pair of pants are best suited for the rack and not your closet. Take a good look at every aspect of the jeans before you purchase them. Make sure there is no discomfort when sitting, bending, or in various positions. You may also notice that the fabric of certain pairs of jeans are more transparent than others. Take this into account also. Jeans that reveal underclothes will require nude or white colors worn beneath. Choose a blouse-like top for straight figured women. Adding a top according to your body type will ensure your jeans and your top bring out your best features and will create cohesion between all parts of the outfit. Tops that make use of ruching or a draping style can give the appearance of greater shapeliness. Tops to consider might have: Boat-necks Nipped or belted waists V or U-necks Ruching or flowing fabric around the bust Show off your hourglass figure. Anything that hugs your curves should be prioritized when you're choosing a top to pair with your white jeans. These kind of garments will allow the natural femininity of your body to shine through! Some tops you might try: V-neck shirts Wrap tops Tops with belts Balance full legs and thighs with longer tops. If you have full legs and thighs, longer tops will reduce focus on this feature and allow for greater appreciation of the entire outfit. True fashion is a balancing act, after all! Try tops with shirttails for a harmonious balance. Longer tops will draw the eye away from the fullness of your legs and thighs by balancing the disproportion between the two. Some tops for your consideration : Sweaters (hip length) Jackets (hip length) Puffed/ruched sleeved tops Tops with padded shoulders Contain your tummy instead of emphasizing it. A figure that has a little bit of a tummy can benefit from a top that skim the skin of your body. Large and billowy tops can end up accentuating the belly and be less than flattering. Lightweight garments, including Empire-waist tops, might work well with your white jeans. Ideal tops for those with a tummy include: Asymmetrical tops Tops with front draping Tops with front ruching Long Cardigans Ponchos Safeguard the fabric of your jeans, if able. Stains and blemishes show up bright as day on white fabric, but you might be able to lessen these by applying a special protectant, like Scotchgard™. Check the tag of your pants before doing this, as you may be inadvisable to Scotchgard™ some pairs of pants. If there are no warnings on the label about pretreatment to prevent stains, apply your protectant according it its directions to your jeans to defend against stains. Be wary dyes rubbing off on you. It is especially easy to overlook a purse or handbag, but over the course of an entire day, the ink from these might rub off on your white jeans. Dark indigo, and colors like it, are potent and transfer easily. This is especially true for new clothing. Wash your white jeans frequently. Wearing your white jeans too frequently can cause the fabric to become dull and lose some of its original luster. To prevent this from happening, you should only wear your white jeans once or twice before laundering. You might also add a whitening product or booster, like baking soda, vinegar, or hydrogen peroxide, to the wash while cleaning your white jeans. Following care instructions. Some fabrics are treated with products before being sold to protect the quality and color of the fabric. These pretreated clothes may have special washing instructions that you should follow, but generally, you will want to wash your white jeans with similar colors in warm water. Don't overload your washing machine. Doing so prevent your garments from rinsing all the way through. and whatever detergent remains can create yellow spots on your jeans over time. Refresh the color of your jeans. Especially if you have a favorite pair that have seen better days, if your jeans are beginning to look less bright than you'd like, try a soak in warm water with some color safe bleach added. Set a timer for about 30 minutes, rinse your jeans when time's up, and then go about drying as you normally would.	Explore various prints with your white jeans. Try your jeans with tie-dye. Test drive your white jeans with an oxford shirt. Experiment with colors. Create a dressy look with your white jeans. Determine your body type. Play up your curves for straight figures. Bypass straight cut waists for hourglass figures. Find a higher rise in the back for full legs and thighs. Counterbalance your tummy with a front rise in the waist. Try your potential purchase before paying. Choose a blouse-like top for straight figured women. Show off your hourglass figure. Balance full legs and thighs with longer tops. Contain your tummy instead of emphasizing it. Safeguard the fabric of your jeans, if able. Be wary dyes rubbing off on you. Wash your white jeans frequently. Following care instructions. Refresh the color of your jeans.
https://www.wikihow.com/Live-Life	How to Live Life	To live life, identify some of your big goals in life and taking small, consistent steps to accomplish them so you don't become overwhelmed by trying to do too much at once. Also, don't be afraid to try new things, like volunteering or picking up a new hobby, which will help you meet people and better yourself. In addition, nurture the relationships with people who are already in your life by spending time with them or doing something nice for them to show that you appreciate them.	Nurture the relationships in your life. It can be easy to take the people we love for granted. Yes, friends and family are what get us through the tough times, but they are also there for the good times as well -- the problem is that we don't always notice. Show them in little ways that you care. Bring flowers for your mom when it's not her birthday. If you're a wiz at working on cars and you hear your friend's car sputtering, offer to change the spark plugs. A small gesture of love can a long way in making those who are special to you feel good! When you have a conflict with a loved one, be willing to work it out. Giving up and slamming the door behind you is not the path to happiness! Sometimes it can be as simple as accepting an idea or opinion that is different from our own. The person will probably recognize that that wasn't easy for you to do and will appreciate you all the more for it. Take action. Don't just think about what you want to do in life. Get out there and do it! You're responsible for making things happen in your life, no one else. Many people at the end of their life wish they would have stepped out more on the tether rope of life. Don't you be one of them! The key really is action. Don't bite off more than you can chew, though. Otherwise, you might quit. Small, incremental steps and consistency is how you accomplish big goals in life. Chose short-term goals that are clearly connected to the bigger picture of what you ultimately want in life and who you want to become. Set aside regular time to review and reflect on your progress, which will help you maintain focus and motivation. Focus on areas of neglect. Have you noticed that you love beautiful surroundings yet your personal space is a mess? Then start working on creating that gorgeous environment for yourself, and then invite your friends over when you're done! Did your art teacher in school comment on the amazing artwork you would create? Even though you've thought about it, you still haven't created one thing since graduation. So pick up some paints today, and start rendering those Picasso-like pieces that you have in your head! Manage your time well. Each day, make a list of your three most important tasks (called MITs) that need to be completed in any given week. Make another list of smaller, less important tasks which, if you don't do, could cause problems for you later on. These might include writing a brief letter, responding to emails, making calls, completing paperwork, etc. Set a time later in the day to do them all at once (say 4:30 p.m.). Then, start working on your MITs for the day, and when the time rolls around, do the smaller tasks. Towards the end of the day, take a look at what still needs to be done. Transfer tasks from the small list to the next day, and continue focusing on the MITs. This method ensures that the bulk of your time isn't consumed by tasks less important than the bigger priorities in your life. Like anything new, it will take time to perfect, but stay with it. Eventually, you will be an expert at managing time versus it managing you! Take on a new fitness challenge. Consider incorporating a 30-day fitness challenge into your routine. It's a terrific way to supplement your regular workout regimen. Most challenges only take 20 to 30 minutes a day to complete; however, you'll be considerably more active than you usually are. The reason 30-day fitness regimens typically have good results is because they entail 5 SMART principles, which means they are time-bound, specific, achievable, relevant and measurable. Think about doing a plank, kettlebell swing, or pushup challenge. The choice is yours based on what part of the body you wish to train the most. Keep in mind, however, that a 30-day fitness challenge is not meant to replace your normal routine. In theory, you're supposed to still maintain what you're doing regularly. You will probably be a little sore at first but, by the end, you should be moving right along with both routines, not to mention in much better shape. Here's an example of how to incorporate the SMART principles using kettlebells: Specific - I'm going to do a 30-day fitness challenge incorporating kettlebell swings. Measurable - I will do 500 swings 20 times within 30 days in order to reach 10,000 swings total. Achievable - I will reach my goal by breaking them down into 5 rounds each with sets of 10, 15, 25 and 50 repetitions. Relevant - I wish to build the core part of my body, and this is one of the best ways to do it. Time-bound - My goal is to reach 10,000 swings within 30 days. Consider training for either a 5K or for a smaller event. This has become a huge sport with almost too many benefits to list here. Signing up for one will help you stay in shape, get your competitive juices flowing, hone your discipline, and you'll meet lots of people. If you haven't run in one before or you're a little out of shape, consider participating in a shorter run, or only do the walk portion of the event. You should be able to find a 5K event where you live. If not, find out where a race is being held, train every day or every other day for 30 days, and go there. Volunteer for an organization that does meaningful work. Volunteering gives you new skills while putting into practice ones you've already developed. It's also a great way to meet new people, and you'll be participating in worthwhile activities with other like-minded people. Further, you'll be helping to make change in an area you're passionate about. Think about volunteering with kids. There are lots of areas you can delve into here. You can participate in a youth group, be a mentor, help out in juvenile detention, or work with one of the big scouting organizations. This could be a ideal direction to go in if you're planning on becoming a youth worker or a teacher. Offer your time at a local animal shelter. If you want instant gratification, do this. There is nothing like a scrawny puppy with big eyes looking up at you as your putting food in his bowl to make you feel good. You could also work in fund-raising – an area that's highly needed in animal rescue work, train to be a vet's assistant, or work in the field picking up stray cats and dogs. Just like the rewards, the choices are endless. Start making and baking things in your kitchen. Your family and friends will probably like this new hobby of yours a lot. You can make yummy jams, tasty pickles, or become a cupcake aficionado. Once you've got the recipes down, think about entering your scrumptious creations in a local taste contest or one of the fairs in your area. You can also make homemade beer. If you can boil water, you can brew beer – even premium, at the fraction of the cost of commercial beer. Home brewing beer has come a long way since it was first legalized in 1979. (A one-person household can make 100 gallons a year and a family household can make 200 gallons.) Over the years, the techniques have been refined and the variety and quality of supplies and brewing ingredients that are available practically ensure great results. These days home brewing has reached a state of high science. But, you don't have to practice at that high a level to make a tasty beer. Brewing is an inexact and forgiving science, which allows for experimentation. To learn, just look online or in your local book store. Each will describe a different procedure for fermenting and brewing and will include recipes unlike the rest. Interestingly, most of them produce terrific results. Finding the ingredients and equipment for home brewing is not the big challenge it used to be. Chances are good even that there's a beer-making store where you live. If not, you can get everything you need by mail. Trace your family tree. This fascinating topic is called genealogy. There are plenty of courses available online on how to chart yours (or other people's) family history. It can take time to do it properly, but when it's finished, it's a keepsake your whole family will appreciate. It also makes a great gift for one or more of your relatives. There isn't a limit in how far back you can go. Keep in mind you need to be fairly detailed oriented and have a detective-type mind to be able to do a thorough and accurate genealogy report. Begin recording what you already know about your family. Start with yourself and enter as much information as possible. Preserve important stories and family information by developing a family tree generation by generation. Record marriage and death dates, names, birth dates, and other facts that you know. Take risks. No successful person has gotten where they are without pushing through “perceived” limitations and failures. Winston Churchill flunked the sixth grade. Oprah Winfrey was told she wasn't fit enough for television. Colombia Pictures thought that Marilyn Monroe wasn't pretty enough, and Walt Disney was told he lacked imagination! However, none of these individuals sat around and sulked in their apparent faults. They went out and made it happen and you can, too! Meet new people. Join a group that has the same interests as you, like veganism or chess. When you see someone you would like to meet, be natural and ask him or her about something that pertains to the moment. Does this cheese have rennet or is it a vegan cheese? Volunteering is another great way to meet people. It gets you out of your normal routine and helping others is a good feeling, too. Learn to tolerate uncertainty and possible rejection. For all kinds of reasons, someone may not want to get to know you, and you may never know why. Try not to take it personally because they really don't know you. Perhaps he or she is a particular religion or race and has been raised to only become friends with people from his or her community. Challenging experiences, emotions, and relationships are an important part of life. They can help you grow and learn, even if they initially make you feel sad or angry. Wander into the unknown, even if you fall on your face. It's okay to fail. It's how we learn what works and what doesn't. Whether it's an inspired idea, a blind date or an unexpected career opportunity, embrace it as a chance to grow. Too many people live in fear, and never tap into how great they really are! Most people have lots of opinions. Take into consideration what others say, but you don't always have to believe what they say about you. Often, it's just projections based on their own fears! Many are fine going unnoticed in the world, not straying from the opinions of others, and not ruffling any feathers. On the inside, though, these are the ones hoping for positive change. Be the lone duck from the crowd, and stay true to yourself. As long as you're not hurting anyone or yourself, then it's fine. The most important thing is you tried. It takes confidence to put yourself out there, so pat yourself on the back for it! There are many people on the planet. Eventually, you will find your tribe. Set aside two weeks to visit a developing country, like Thailand, Vietnam or Laos, for $500 or less. While there are some pricey hotspots in the world, these three countries are doable if you're on a budget. You can visit one of them for two weeks for about $500, excluding airfare. This covers accommodation, drinks, food, transportation and other on-the-ground expenses. Thailand is popular and for good reason. Cheap dining and accommodations, inexpensive trains and buses, beautiful mountains and beaches, and a happening metropolis in Bangkok all contribute to the perfect destination place for the budget traveler. Vietnam is another great place to make your money to go far, and it's a beautiful country with so much to offer. Accommodation is inexpensive while still being comfortable and clean, the food is some of the best and cheapest in the world, and traveling by bus means you will save a fortune. As a backpacker destination, Laos has been gaining in popularity in recent years but the costs are still within reason. This stunning part of the world is known for its laid-back lifestyle and its gorgeous scenery. Quit your day job and travel. Ask yourself, do you love what you do? If it isn't a loud, enthusiastic YES, then it may be time to do something about it! First, sell everything that you don't absolutely need. Two, save at least one or two months' salary. And three, either volunteer your services, teach English online, or teach at an actual school in a developing country. Believe it or not, there are a lot of companies, individuals and non-profits looking for all kinds of help in developing countries. You could volunteer in an administrative capacity at a Tibetan school in India, on a coffee farm in Honduras, or on a horse ranch in Mexico. The choice really is yours. There are several big websites that regularly post ads for people, companies and NGOs that are looking for volunteers. Though they don't pay, most cover room and board. You just have to get there and have some money for living expenses each month. You can also teach English online or at an actual school abroad. If you teach online, you can either freelance or work through a company. If it's through a company, they may require you to have an “English as a Foreign Language” (EFL) certificate, which is only a short, inexpensive course. There are also hundreds of schools on the Internet canvassing for teachers on a regular basis – entry level or experienced; many require an EFL certificate but some do not. Most provide room, board and a decent salary. The biggest criteria for teaching EFL are patience, creativity, organizational skills and English fluency. Read travel blogs. Most of these writers are not being to paid to write. So you will usually get a personal, honest glimpse into what a country looks like. Since you're on a budget, veer towards backpacking blogs. Along with giving you a frank portrait, many also give lots of details on what things cost. Peruse travel forums. Many travelers sharing on websites have just come from your future destination, are genuine and want to help. Though take what they say with a grain of salt. It's part of human nature to filter memories through a few specific events, negative ones usually.	Nurture the relationships in your life. Take action. Focus on areas of neglect. Manage your time well. Take on a new fitness challenge. Volunteer for an organization that does meaningful work. Start making and baking things in your kitchen. Trace your family tree. Take risks. Meet new people. Learn to tolerate uncertainty and possible rejection. Wander into the unknown, even if you fall on your face. Set aside two weeks to visit a developing country, like Thailand, Vietnam or Laos, for $500 or less. Quit your day job and travel. Read travel blogs. Peruse travel forums.
https://www.wikihow.com/Play-the-Violin	How to Play the Violin	To play the violin, start by holding the neck of the violin with your left hand and bringing the butt of the instrument up to your neck so the lower back of the violin is resting on your collarbone. Then, loosely grip the bow with your free hand and place the flat side of the bow hair halfway between the bridge and the fingerboard. When you're ready, play a note by pulling the bow along the string, keeping it straight and parallel to the bridge. If you want a louder note, apply more pressure, and if you want a softer note, apply less pressure.	Buy or rent a violin. If you're just starting out with the instrument, there's no need to spend an excessive amount of money on a violin, but like most instruments, the quality of the violin generally rises as the price goes up. Expect to spend a few hundred dollars on a decent beginner's violin. Buy full size or 4/4, if you're an adult. The violin is a small instrument, but there are specially designed smaller sizes available. These are generally only intended for younger children, so be sure the violin you're buying is full size unless you're very small. You can ask the shop for a recommendation if you aren't sure. You can also ask the shop to measure your arm length to see what size violin you need. When holding the violin in the playing position, straighten your left arm and the tops of your fingertips should be near the top the violin scroll. If your arm is way past the top, the violin is too small. Buy from a reputable seller. Music stores stake their reputations on selling solid instruments that are free of obvious flaws and damage. As a beginner, you won't be able to coax a very pleasant sound from your instrument for some time, so flaws in privately sold violins might not be apparent to you until it is far too late to complain. Only buy from a store or individual you can trust. Check the accessories. Unless you have purchased the instrument only, your violin outfit should come with a violin with four strings, a bow, and a carrying case and most of the time a chin rest and rosin for your bow. In most cases, the person who sells you the violin will be happy to string it for you, which has the added bonus of double-checking to be sure the tuning pegs (the knobs at the scroll, or top, of the violin) are properly fit to the scroll. A hard case is important because violins are such delicate instruments. Strings come in three basic varieties: gut, which is expensive and difficult to take care of, but which offers a complex range of sound; steel, which is loud and bright but can sound scratchy, and synthetic, which is smooth, clear, and not as unpredictable as gut. Each type's name refers to the core material around which metal wire is wrapped to create the string. Most beginners should go with synthetic core strings, such as nylon core. The bow should be new, or newly re-haired. You can check this by looking at the hair of the bow (the fine, white or off-white fibers) and ensuring that the color is uniform and bright along its entire length. The hair of the bow should be a uniform width from end to end. Bows wear down over time. You can get your bow re-haired for a small fee at most music shops. Purchase other items. Nearly all violinists use a chin rest, which is a cheap, ergonomic piece of (usually black) plastic that clamps near the base of the violin and allows it to be held securely by your chin. This is usually attached to the violin when the violin is built. Aside from that, be sure you have some rosin (coagulated sap) for your bow, a music stand, and a book of beginner lessons or songs, preferably in a format that will open flat. Some violinists, especially beginners, also purchase a shoulder rest, which is a violin-width pad that sits on your shoulder underneath the violin and makes it easier to hold. Many people start with a shoulder rest and eventually remove it after a few years. If the violin seems to dig into your shoulder when you play, consider purchasing one. Fiddlers, if they sing while performing, often hold the violin in the crook of an arm while playing, with the butt resting against their shoulder. For them, chin rests and shoulder rests are generally pointless. A tuner is a small device that clips on to the scroll or the pegs of the violin. It is useful for beginners if you are teaching yourself, as it can be used to make sure you are playing the notes correctly. But once you know how to play the notes, the tuner isn't of much use anymore except for tuning the instrument itself. Be sure to take it off before big performances though, as it looks unprofessional. Tighten the bow. Once you've set up your music stand and sheet music, open the case and remove the bow. The hair of the bow should be limp. Tighten the bow hair by turning the end screw clockwise until the space between the hair and the stick is big enough to pass a pencil through cleanly from tip to tip. The hair shouldn't be too limp, or too tight. The hair should not be parallel to the wooden part of the bow, but with the wooden part curving slightly toward the hair. Don't use your pinky finger as a gauge because the oil from your skin will transfer to the hair, which needs to remain oil-free to get the best sound from the strings. Rosin the bow. Rosin comes in two types, dark and light; either is fine to use, and neither is expensive. In warmer climates, light is preferred, dark is recommended in more northern areas. If you live in an unpredictable climate, it is advisable to have both. It's usually a rectangle of hard, translucent material in a paper or cardboard casing that's open on two sides. Grip the rosin by the papered sides and gently but vigorously rub it up and down along the length of the bow hair three or four times. The goal is to transfer some of the rosin “dust” onto the hair, making it stickier. You will need to rosin your bow about every time you practice. If you don't think the rosin is producing any "dust", take a key, sandpaper, a coin, or any other sharp object, and lightly scratch the rosin. You will see some light streaks if you scratched hard enough. Too much rosin will cause the bow to grip too well, producing a scratchy sound. If you over-rosin your bow, it's fine; it'll just take a few hours of playing to bring it back down to the correct level. If this is a newly haired bow, it may need more rosin than normal. Draw the flat side of the bow hair across a string to see if it makes a clear sound after three or four strokes of rosin. If it doesn't, add a couple more. Tune the violin. Set the bow aside for a moment and take the violin out of the case. The strings, in order from lowest tone to highest, should be tuned to G, D, A, and E. You can usually purchase an electric tuner from $15 to $20 depending on the quality and brand. Major adjustments can be made with the tuning pegs in the scroll of the violin, but if the tone seems only a little bit off, use the tiny metal dials near the bottom, called fine tuners , to make your adjustments instead. Once you're satisfied, return the violin to the open case for a moment. You probably would like to have a professional tune your violin first. Rely on a tone whistle to find the correct notes, or simply look sound files up on the Internet. Not all violins have fine tuners, but they can be installed by a shop. Some violins may have only one fine tuner, on the E string. Some violinists can make do with just that one fine tuner, while others may prefer to get the rest. Grip the bow. Use the balance point to learn to hold the bow and even out the weight. When you think you are ready to grip the bow like a professional, start by gently laying the middle part of your index finger on the grip (the slightly padded part of the stick, usually a few inches above the tightening knob). Place the tip of your pinky on the flat part of the stick near the base, keeping it slightly curved. The ring and middle fingers should rest with their middle parts in line with the tip of your pinky, and their tips on the side of the frog (the black piece that connects the tightening knob to the hair). Your thumb should rest underneath the stick, at the front of the frog, near or on the bow hair. It might feel a bit uncomfortable at first, but over time, it will form into a habit. Your hand should be relaxed and loose, and somewhat rounded as if holding a small ball. Don't let your palm close or rest on the bow. This reduces the control you have over the movement of the bow, which becomes increasingly important as your skill increases. Hold the violin. Stand or sit with a straight back. Pick it up by its neck with your left hand and bring the butt of the instrument up to your neck. Rest the lower back of the violin on your collar bone and hold it in place with your jaw. To learn notes, however, you should hold it guitar style and buy a music book. It helps a whole lot. Your jaw, just under the earlobe (not your chin), is supposed to be resting on the chin rest. This helps prevent the instrument from sliding off your shoulder. (This is also why violinists on TV always seem to be looking down and to the right. Perfect your hand position. Place your hand under the top part of the neck and support the violin so that the scroll is pointing out away from you. Hold it steady by resting the side of your thumb on the neck, and allow your four fingers to arch over the fingerboard, which is the black plate covering the front of the neck. Beware of the "waiter hand" where your left wrist is touching the fingerboard, just like how some waiters hold plates of food. This, too, could turn into a habit if you don't fix it. As a beginner, your hand should be as far up the neck as possible while still allowing your pointer finger to come down on the fingerboard. Eventually, you'll learn to slide your hand up and down to reach higher notes quickly. Play the strings. Place the flat side of the bow hair approximately halfway between the bridge (the flimsy-looking wooden stand 3/4 of the way down the strings that keeps them tented) and the fingerboard, so that it's directly over the belly (front body) of the violin. Pull the bow along the string as straight as you can, parallel to the bridge, applying a small amount of pressure. A sound should emanate from the violin. Also, tilt the bow hair towards bridge at a 45-degree angle. More pressure equals louder sound, but too much pressure makes it scratchy. Light pressure should produce a continuous tone from end to end of the bow; if there are gaps, the bow needs more rosin. If you play too close to the bridge, it may also sound scratchy. Tilt the bow slightly toward the scroll and your tone will be more focused, producing a more professional sound. Practice playing open strings (G,D,A and E in order from top to bottom string). Open strings are simply strings played without fingertips on them. Rest the neck of the violin in the space between the left thumb and first finger. Hold the bow with your wrist, elbow, shoulder and contact point on the string within one plane. Change strings by raising or lowering the elbow to bring the bow to the proper height. Try short strokes of 6 inches (15.2 cm) or so in the middle of the bow at first, then try half strokes from the frog to the middle and back again. Work your way up to full-length strokes. Short and long strokes are both important techniques for playing the violin, so don't feel as though you're wasting time practicing with short strokes. Continue practicing until you can play one string at a time without touching the other strings. It's important to develop control so you don't accidentally play a note you didn't want to play. Practice playing other notes. It takes a lot of practice to master the pressure and positioning required to get your fingers to produce clear notes on the fingerboard. Start with your strongest finger, the pointer finger. Using the tip only, press down firmly on the highest string (the E string). You don't need to use as much pressure as you do with guitar strings; a modest but firm amount is enough. Draw the bow across the E string to produce a slightly higher note. If you are holding the violin properly, your finger should naturally come down about half an inch below the nut (the top of the fingerboard), producing an F note. Add notes. Once you're able to produce a clear note, try putting the tip of your middle finger down a little ways below the pointer finger on the fingerboard. Keep both fingers down and play another, higher note. Finally, set the ring finger ahead of the middle finger and repeat the process. The pinkie is also used, but takes considerably more practice to master. For now, just worry about the other three fingers. Add strings. Try playing four notes (open, pointer, middle, and ring) on all four strings. Pay attention to the amount of pressure you need to produce a clear note on each one. Practice scales. A scale is a series of notes that ascend and descend in a pattern of steps (usually 8, sometimes 5) that starts at one note and ends at a higher or lower version of the same note. An easy (and useful) scale for beginners is the D Major scale, which starts on the open D string. From there, place your fingers down in order (as described above) and play each note: D (open), E, F sharp, G (which should be produced by your third, or ring, finger). To complete the scale, play the next highest open string, A, and then repeat the pattern on the A string to play B, C sharp, and finally D with your third finger. When properly played, the D Major scale (and in fact, every major scale) should match the sound of the famous “Do, Re, Mi, Fa, So, La, Ti, Do” singing scale. If you don't know what that is, look it up online or watch the musical film “The Sound of Music,” which features a memorable and well-known song called “Do Re Mi” that explains it. If you can't seem to get the sound right, remember: place the first finger a finger's width from the nut, the second finger a finger's width from the first, and the third finger touching the second. If you prefer, ask your music shop or teacher to tape the finger positions for you with white tape, so you have a visual guide. Other scales, such as minor, harmonic, and even pentatonic (5-note) scales exist, but those can be studied, practiced, and internalized later. Practice every day. Start with a short time (15 or 20 minutes) and work a little longer every day until you reach an hour, or you can't find any more time to play. Serious violinists often practice for 3 or more hours per day; then again, many violinists at that level get money for playing. Practice as much as you reasonably can, and keep at it. Even sounding good enough to play a few simple songs can take months, but eventually, things will begin to come together.	Buy or rent a violin. Check the accessories. Purchase other items. Tighten the bow. Rosin the bow. Tune the violin. Grip the bow. Hold the violin. Perfect your hand position. Play the strings. Practice playing open strings (G,D,A and E in order from top to bottom string). Practice playing other notes. Practice scales. Practice every day.
https://www.wikihow.com/Make-BBQ-Chicken	How to Make BBQ Chicken	To make BBQ chicken, start by cutting up a whole chicken and seasoning the pieces with salt, pepper, and any other seasonings you enjoy. Then, sear each piece of chicken in a skillet for about 5 minutes, or until both sides are browned. Next, transfer the chicken to 2 baking dishes, separating the white and dark meat, and spread barbecue sauce over each piece. Finally, cook the chicken at 325 degrees Fahrenheit for 30 minutes for the breasts and 70 minutes for the legs, and add more barbecue sauce before serving.	Combine the dry rub ingredients. Place all of the dry rub ingredients in a resealable plastic container and mix thoroughly using a whisk, fork, or spoon. You could use a non-resealable bowl, but using a resealable plastic container allows you to save some of the rub for later if you decide not to use the entire batch now. Note that this recipe produces about 2 cups (500 ml) dry rub. This dry rub is also fairly spicy. While much of the heat will fade once you dust the dry rub off the chicken, a good portion of it will still remain. If you prefer a milder taste, you can reduce the amount of cayenne pepper, chili powder, and paprika. You could also skip the dry rub completely and simply use salt and pepper to season the chicken. Place the chicken in a plastic bag or baking dish. Transfer the cut-up chicken to a non-reactive container, like one made of glass or plastic. A resealable plastic bag also works well and may actually make it easier to spread the spice around. Sprinkle the dry rub over the chicken. Dust the chicken with a generous amount of the dry rub. Once you are satisfied with the amount of dry rub on the chicken, use clean hands to gently pat it down. If you use a plastic bag, you can place dry rub in the bag, seal it, and turn it over several times to coat the chicken. You do not necessarily need to use all of the dry rub at once, but you may do so if you prefer a stronger flavor. Otherwise, start with 1/4 to 1/2 of the mixture and add more only if needed. Do not contaminate the unused dry rub with any that has come into contact with the chicken. Let the chicken sit. Loosely cover the seasoned chicken and place it in the refrigerator. Let sit a few hours to overnight. You could technically use the chicken right away, but allowing it to sit will help the chicken absorb more of the flavor from the dry rub. Sauté the onion, garlic, and salt in butter. Melt the butter in a large saucepan over low heat. Slowly add the onion, garlic, and salt, cooking just until the onion becomes tender. Use a saucepan made of a nonreactive material. The garlic and onion must be sauteed gently. Do not allow them to brown at this stage. Add the red pepper, paprika, chili powder, and black pepper. Stir the ingredients in and cook for a full minute. You need to give the spices enough time to cook before adding the next set of ingredients. If not, the spices will not build up enough aroma or flavor. Stir in the water, vinegar, brown sugar, and Worcestershire sauce. After thoroughly mixing these ingredients into the seasoned onions and garlic, let the mixture reach a simmer. Mix in the molasses and tomato paste. Stir the molasses into the sauce. As soon as the molasses is incorporated, whisk in the tomato paste. To make whisking the tomato paste easier, scoop it up from the can or measuring cup using your whisk and transfer it into the saucepan directly. Instead of trying to remove the paste off the whisk by "tapping" the utensil on the side of the pan, simply whisk the barbecue sauce with the clump of tomato paste still attached to the whisk. As you continue whisking, the paste will dissolve into the sauce. Continue whisking until smooth. Let the sauce reach a simmer once more, still over low heat. Cook for 10 to 15 minutes. Let the sauce simmer on low heat until it becomes thick and smooth. Leave the saucepan uncovered. Stir the sauce occasionally as it simmers. Separate the sauce into two parts. Transfer 1 1/2 cups (375 ml) of the sauce to a bowl to use while preparing the chicken. Place the rest of the sauce in a resealable container and store in the refrigerator. You cannot serve cooked chicken with sauce used to prepare raw chicken, so the stored sauce is the portion that you will serve alongside the chicken once you finish cooking it. Preheat the oven to 325 degrees Fahrenheit (160 degrees Celsius). Simultaneously heat 1/4-inch (2/3-cm) cooking oil in a 12-inch (30-cm) skillet. Sear the chicken. Remove the chicken from the dry rub, shaking off any excess rub still clinging to the skin. Place the chicken skin-side down in the preheated skillet and cook until well-browned on both sides. Turn the chicken once during the searing process. Each piece of chicken will need to be seared for roughly 5 minutes. Cook the chicken in batches. Do not crowd the skillet. Transfer the chicken into two baking dishes. Place the chicken skin-side up into the two dishes, separating the breast portions (white meat) from the leg portions (dark meat). Add 2 Tbsp (30 ml) water to each dish. Use 2-quart to 3-quart (2-liter to 3-liter) baking pans made from glass or another nonreactive material. The dark meat and white meat need to cook for different amounts of time, which is why the pieces should be separated into different dishes. Spoon the reserved sauce over the chicken. Make sure that the sauce is spread evenly. Loosely cover each dish with parchment paper and follow by tightly covering each dish with aluminum foil. Cook the chicken until done. The leg portions will need to be cooked for 70 to 75 minutes, while the breast portions will only need 30 to 40 minutes. Refrigerate the breast portions until ready to bake. Increase the oven temperature to 450 degrees Fahrenheit (230 degrees Celsius). Uncover the dish and spoon more sauce over the chicken to prevent it from drying out. Continue baking for another 10 to 15 minutes. At this point, you can use your refrigerated serving sauce on the chicken since the meat should already be done and safe to consume. Continue cooking until the meat is well-glazed and tender. Serve warm. The chicken should also be served alongside any remaining barbecue sauce. Preheat the grill. You can grill the chicken using a charcoal grill or a gas grill. The choice is ultimately yours, but either way, half the grill should be heated to a medium-hot temperature while the other half should be cooler. A gas grill burns cleaner, but a charcoal grill will produce a smokier flavor. To preheat a gas grill, switch on the burners of one side of the grill only. If the burners have temperature control settings, choose a medium-high setting. To preheat a charcoal grill, pile all of the charcoal on one side of the grill. Light the coals and allow them to burn down until a fine layer of white ash forms on top and the flames have burned away. Transfer the chicken to the cool side of the grill. Use tongs to transfer the chicken to the unlit side of the grill, placing the pieces skin-side down. You can shake off some of the excess rub, but for this method, you still want a considerable amount of the rub to remain in order to produce a stronger flavor. Cook 25 to 30 minutes. Cover the grill and cook the chicken until it turns golden-brown. Covering the grill allows more heat to build up, cooking the chicken quicker and more thoroughly. You will need to move the pieces around halfway through the cooking process. The pieces closer to the coals or active burners will need to be swapped with the pieces furthest from the heat. Use a meat thermometer to check the temperature of the chicken at the end of this stage. It should read about 150 degrees Fahrenheit (65 degrees Celsius). Move the chicken and coat with sauce. Transfer the chicken to the hotter side of the grill and brush your reserved sauce over the pieces. Turn the chicken as often as necessary to make sure that it is completely coated with sauce. Cook until crisp. Once done, the sauce should appear caramelized and the skin should be crispy on all sides. Turn the pieces and glaze with more sauce as needed to make sure that the chicken cooks evenly. This part of the process will require your full attention, and you will need to leave the grill uncovered. This part of the cooking process can take another 10 to 20 minutes. Serve warm. Remove the chicken from the grill and let it rest for 5 minutes before serving it with the refrigerated portion of your barbecue sauce. . Make honey BBQ chicken Sweeten your favorite barbecue sauce with a little honey before using it as a glaze for your chicken. . Try something different with a gourmet BBQ chicken recipe An elegant yet simple barbecue sauce for chicken can be created with a bottle of tomato-based Russian dressing, an envelope of dry onion soup mix, and a jar of apricot preserves. . Prepare barbecue chicken with beer A beer-honey barbecue sauce can be spread over chicken to give it a more complex flavor. . Give your BBQ chicken a smoky flavor The addition of liquid smoke, when combined with a sauce made of ketchup, brown sugar, allspice, nutmeg, and garlic, gives drumsticks or whole chickens a rich, smoky flavor, even when it is not cooked on the grill. . Cross cultures with a Filipino-style barbecue chicken When made this way, chicken is cooked in a sauce made with soy sauce, ginger, garlic, brown sugar, achuete powder, onion, and lemonsito juice. Create Asian-inspired sticky chicken. Like most barbecue sauces, the sauce for this chicken is made with a ketchup base and a bit of brown sugar. The flavors of soy sauce and garlic are mixed in to create an interesting contrast, however. Use a different barbecue sauce. You can always substitute the barbecue sauce described in this recipe with your favorite homemade or commercial sauce. If you want to try something new, you could also consider a few of the following. Make a simpler sauce. A very basic, mild, yet flavorful barbecue sauce can be made with nothing more than ketchup, cider vinegar, Worcestershire sauce, onion, garlic, brown sugar, and paprika. Prepare a sweet and spicy sauce. A tomato base is livened up with the addition of chili powder, smoked paprika, and cayenne pepper, but the addition of brown sugar and sweet Hungarian paprika give this spicy sauce a hint of sweetness, too. Make a mustard-based barbecue sauce. Most BBQ sauces contain ketchup, but this version combines yellow mustard with other traditional barbecue sauce ingredients to form something a little more unique.	Combine the dry rub ingredients. Place the chicken in a plastic bag or baking dish. Sprinkle the dry rub over the chicken. Let the chicken sit. Sauté the onion, garlic, and salt in butter. Add the red pepper, paprika, chili powder, and black pepper. Stir in the water, vinegar, brown sugar, and Worcestershire sauce. Mix in the molasses and tomato paste. Cook for 10 to 15 minutes. Separate the sauce into two parts. Preheat the oven to 325 degrees Fahrenheit (160 degrees Celsius). Sear the chicken. Transfer the chicken into two baking dishes. Spoon the reserved sauce over the chicken. Cook the chicken until done. Increase the oven temperature to 450 degrees Fahrenheit (230 degrees Celsius). Serve warm. Preheat the grill. Transfer the chicken to the cool side of the grill. Cook 25 to 30 minutes. Move the chicken and coat with sauce. Cook until crisp. Serve warm. . . . . . Create Asian-inspired sticky chicken. Use a different barbecue sauce.
https://www.wikihow.com/Make-a-Hula-Skirt	How to Make a Hula Skirt	To make a hula skirt out of paper bags, cut along one side and the bottom of a bag so you're left with a large rectangle shape. Repeat this process for as many bags as you need to fit around your waist. Next, lay the cut bags out in landscape form and cut fringe strips into them, leaving approximately 2 inches at the top for the waistband. Then, cut a piece of string for a waistband and tape it to the top side of your bags. Finish by tying the skirt around your waist in a bow.	Gather up your materials. You'll need raffia or ribbon (2-4 large packages), scissors, a measuring tape, and a sturdy string, such as yarn or twine. You'll also need a sink or bowl to soak your raffia / ribbon in, and a flat surface where you can lay the raffia / ribbon out to dry. If you want an extremely dense hula skirt (one that you cannot see through), you'll probably need about 4 large packages of raffia or ribbon. If you want a lighter skirt, 2 large packages should be enough. All of these supplies can be purchased online or at your local craft store. (optional) Dampen your raffia or ribbon by soaking it in water. Start by unrolling your raffia / ribbon. It will most likely be bent, curled, and kinky from being rolled into its packaging, so soaking it and laying it flat to dry will straighten it out. Submerge the raffia or ribbon in a sink or bowl full of hot water for 5 minutes. (optional) Dry your raffia or ribbon. As you remove your raffia or ribbon from the water, lay it on top of a towel on a flat surface to dry. It will take a few hours to dry, and should feel completely dry to the touch before you begin attaching it to your skirt. Measure the length of your hula skirt. While the raffia / ribbon is drying, take your measuring tape and measure the length from your waist to your knees (or however long you want your hula skirt to be). Write down this measurement so you don't forget it. Cut your raffia or ribbon to the proper length. Find the measurement you wrote down in the last step, then double this number and add 2 inches. For example, if you want the skirt to be 15 inches long, cut your raffia / ribbon into 32 inches pieces. You have to double the length of your raffia / ribbon because each piece will be folded in half and end up being two strands of fringe for your skirt. Measure your waist to determine the width of your skirt. Take your measuring tape and wrap it around your waist to see how long you need to cut your string. Then, take that measurement and add 12 inches. This added length will be used to tie and untie your skirt. This string will be your waistband. For example, if your waist is 30 inches, cut your string so that it is 42 inches long. Tie each piece of raffia or ribbon to your waistband string one at a time by using Larks head knots. Look here for visual instructions on tying Larkshead knots. To tie a larks head knot, start by taking a piece of raffia or ribbon and folding it in half. Take the looped end of your folded raffia or ribbon and slide it under your waistband string. The looped end should be below the waistband, and the loose ends should be above the waistband. Now, take the loose ends of your raffia or ribbon and fold them towards you, around your waistband string. Slip the ends through the loop and pull tightly to secure your raffia / ribbon to the waistband. Do this with each piece of raffia or ribbon until your hula skirt is complete. It should take 2-3 entire packages. Leave 6 inches on each end of your waistband string so you can tie and untie your skirt. Tie the skirt around your waist. Use a bow instead of a knot so that you'll be able to tie and untie your skirt. Have fun in your new hula skirt! Gather all of your materials. You'll need grocery bags (typically 1-2, depending on how big your waist is), a pair of scissors, a pencil, a thick string (such as yarn or twine), and either packing tape or a stapler. Having a ruler will also help, but isn't absolutely necessary. Cut your paper bag. Start by cutting along one of the corner seams of the bag all the way to the bottom. Then, cut off the entire bottom of the bag by cutting around the perimeter of the bottom. Your bag should now be in a long rectangle shape. If you are going to use more than one bag, repeat this step with each bag. To see how many bags you need to use, wrap one horizontally around your waist. If it goes all the way around you, you only need to use one. If the bag leaves more than a couple inches showing, you'll need to add an additional bag. You won't always need to use entire bags. For example, it might take a bag and a half of a bag to fit around your waist. It's just paper, so you can cut and tape the exact amount of paper bag that you need. Lay your paper bag out on a flat surface so that it is horizontal / landscape. If there are any words or logos on the bag, leave them facing upwards. The upward facing side of the bag will end up being the inside of your hula skirt. This way, the words or logos won't show when you're wearing your skirt. Draw the waistband onto your bag. Drawing an outline for your waistband will show you where to stop cutting when you're making the fringe of your skirt. Take your ruler and measure 1-2 inches down from the top of the bag (depending on how thick you want your waistband to be), and make a small mark with a pencil. Then, place your ruler horizontally on the mark (your ruler should be parallel to the bag), and trace a straight line across the entire top of your bag. This line will mark off the waistband of your hula skirt. Cut strips into your bag to create the fringe part of your skirt. Starting on the right end of your bag, cut strips into your bag by starting at the bottom and cutting upwards until you reach the waistband outline. Strips should be 1/2 inch - 1 inch, depending on how think you want your fringe to be. Cut strips across the entire bag. Repeat this with any additional bags you are using. Leave the bag(s) laying flat while you do the next step. Cut your string. Wrap the string around your waist to see how much you'll need. Be sure to include a few extra inches of string on each side for you to tie and untie your hula skirt. Then, cut the string. After the string is cut, lay it along the waistband portion of the skirt that was not cut. Center the string to leave a few inches on each end of your skirt to tie and untie it. If you are using multiple bags, lay the bags side by side and tape or staple the end of the waistbands together. You will lay the string along the top of the entire width of your skirt. Tape or staple your string onto your skirt. Be sure that the string is secured well to your skirt, otherwise your skirt will not stay on. Use a heavy-duty tape, like packing tape or masking tape. Tape the string down along the entire waistband. If using staples, it's best to add a staple every 2 inches. Put the skirt on! Pick the skirt up and tie it onto your body. Use a bow so that it is easy to tie and untie your skirt. The tape or staples should be on the inside of your skirt, so that they cannot be seen from the outside.	Gather up your materials. (optional) Dampen your raffia or ribbon by soaking it in water. (optional) Dry your raffia or ribbon. Measure the length of your hula skirt. Cut your raffia or ribbon to the proper length. Measure your waist to determine the width of your skirt. Tie each piece of raffia or ribbon to your waistband string one at a time by using Larks head knots. Tie the skirt around your waist. Gather all of your materials. Cut your paper bag. Lay your paper bag out on a flat surface so that it is horizontal / landscape. Draw the waistband onto your bag. Cut strips into your bag to create the fringe part of your skirt. Cut your string. Tape or staple your string onto your skirt. Put the skirt on!
https://www.wikihow.com/Make-a-Paper-Robot	How to Make a Paper Robot	To make a paper robot, first make a small cube and a larger rectangular cube from cardstock. Then, cover the cubes with tin foil and glue them together to make the robot's head and body. Next, cut colored construction paper into strips, fold them into accordion pleats, and attach them for arms. Also, roll some construction paper into tubes and attach them to your robot to make legs. Finally, glue on button eyes, bead ears, and paper feet before you poke holes in the robot's head and stick in pipe cleaner antennae.	Collect your supplies. You will need plain white card stock, 5-6 sheets of different colored construction paper, and some acrylic silver spray paint. Super glue, tape, a ruler, and scissors are all necessary to help build your robot. You may also want to add different colored pipe cleaners, buttons, and beads onto your robot. Draw four connected squares. First, you will want to find paper which is thick, like card stock. The dimensions of your cube will be 2X2X2 inches. Using a ruler, draw a 2X2 square on the paper. You can use a protractor to check whether each of the angles are 90 degrees. After you have drawn the first square, you will now have to draw three more of equal size. The next three will go directly next to the first square. Each new square will use a line from the previous square. Continue this until you have four squares, all connected together in one large rectangle. You will now have a rectangle of four connected squares, with a total dimension of 2X8 inches, and three visible pencil lines. Connect two more squares to the rectangle. The last two squares are placed apart from another, at square number two on the rectangle. Place a square on each side of that rectangle at the same position. You should now have what looks like a cross. Cut out the cube. Use scissors to cut around the outside edges of the cross. Do not cut on the inside pencil marks. After you have cut out the cross, throw the excess paper away. Join the edges of the cube together. For this step you can use either glue or tape. Fold up the three squares at the top of the cross. Lift up the long end of the cross and fold the top over. You should now have what looks roughly like a cube. Use small pieces of tape, or dabs of glue, to join together the edges. If you use glue, hold the edges together for at least 30 seconds so that the glue can dry. Make a cuboid out of heavy paper. This follows the same steps as the normal cube. The only difference is the dimensions. Draw a 2X4 inch rectangle. On top of that rectangle, on the long side, draw a 4X8 rectangle. Make sure that the lines of both rectangles connect with one another. On top of that rectangle, draw another 2X4 rectangle. Then, on top of that one, draw another 4X8 rectangle. At the end, you should have a rectangle that is 4X20 inch rectangle, with three pencil marks. Remember, 4 inch sides need to match up with 4 inch sides. 8 inch sides need to match up with 8 inch sides. For example, when drawing the 4X8 rectangle above the 2X4 rectangle, the 4 inch sides need to match up. On both sides of one of the 4X8 rectangles, draw a 8X2 rectangle. At the end, you should have what looks like a cross. Cut out the cross. Use a pair of scissors and cut out the cross. Fold up the two 8X2 rectangles, and one 2X4 rectangle. Then fold up the other section, so that you end up with a rectangular cube. Use dabs or glue, or small tabs of tape to secure the edges. If you use glue, hold the edges down for 30 seconds to ensure that the glue dries. Paint your boxes or wrap them in tin foil. If you decide to paint your boxes, you will need to buy acrylic silver spray paint. Take them outside so that fumes don't build up indoors. Spray from about 1-2 feet away. Make sure that you get all the sides and edges. You can let one side dry before you spray paint the other sides. If you decide to wrap your boxes in tin foil, simply peel off large sheets of tin foil. Cut two long strips which will wrap around both boxes. You also want to cut out four smaller pieces to wrap around the smaller areas and edges. You can either wrap the tin foil tightly around the cubes, or glue them down with dabs of super glue. Attach the two boxes together. Take the cube and place it on one of the 2X4 rectangles in the cuboid. Place the cube in the center of that rectangle. Place a good amount of super glue underneath that cube and press down for 15 seconds. Cut out two strips of construction paper. Choose any color you would like, but darker colors work best. You want to cut out two strips, each that are 1X7 inches long. Accordion fold the two strips. This means that the first 1/2 inch you will fold up, the next 1/2 inch you will fold down, the next 1/2 inch up, etc. Do this to both strips until they have been completely accordion folded. Glue the accordion folds to the body. Place a dab of super glue about one inch below the head of the robot, on both sides of the body. Take the ends of your accordion folds and press them against the super glue. Hold them there for fifteen seconds so that the glue can dry. Cut out two squares out of construction paper. Each of these squares should be 4X4 inches. After you have cut them out, feel free to dispose of any excess construction paper. The color of this construction paper should match what you chose for the arm accordion folds. Roll the squares. Take each of the squares in your hands and roll them like a cigar. You want to make sure you leave at least an inch or two in diameter. Then take a small piece of tape and place it on the overlapping edge so that the roll stays in place. Secure the legs to the body. Spread super glue around one of the ends of your roll. Do this to both of the legs. Then press and hold them on the underside of the body (large rectangular cube). The legs should be the same distance from one another, and about a 1/2 inch inwards from the edges. Hold the legs there for 15 seconds to allow the glue to harden and dry. Glue on eyes to your robot's head. Choose from a vast array of buttons or small items you might want to use as eyes. You might want something shiny, so that it matches the essence of a robot. After you have chosen the buttons you wish to use as eyes, super glue them onto the head. Make sure that they are placed on the front of the head, each about an inch inwards from the sides. Poke holes into the robot's head. You can do this with a sharp knife, or a pair of scissors. You want to do this on the top part of the head. Each hole should be about an inch inwards from the edges. Make sure the holes are tiny, otherwise the antennas won't hold. Take a pipe cleaner and cut it in half. Stick one piece in one of the holes and one in the other. Bend them slightly as if they are receiving signals. Cut out small paper squares. These can range from 1/4 inch squares to 1/2 inch squares. Cut these out of construction paper using scissors. Make sure you are using a multitude of different colors. Glue them on the front of the main body. You can do these in any order you wish. Press each of the pieces down for 15 seconds to allow the glue to dry. These squares will represent blinking lights/electronics on the robot. Create feet for your robot. Cut out two circles, each the same size, about 2 inches in diameter. If you have a hard time drawing a perfect circle, try to find a small circular object, like the end of a paper towel roll, and trace the edge of it. You should use a different color than the color you used for the legs and arms. Place your robot down on its back. Place glue around the edges of the lower paper legs. Press each of the circles onto the legs, and hold them for 15 seconds. This will allow the glue to dry. Make ears for your robot. Find two small beads that are the same color. You will want to use gold or silver beads. Take a small amount of super glue on each side of your robot's head. Place a bead on each side, and hold them against the super glue. Make sure to hold them for 15 seconds to allow the glue to dry. Finished.	Collect your supplies. Draw four connected squares. Connect two more squares to the rectangle. Cut out the cube. Join the edges of the cube together. Make a cuboid out of heavy paper. Cut out the cross. Paint your boxes or wrap them in tin foil. Attach the two boxes together. Cut out two strips of construction paper. Accordion fold the two strips. Glue the accordion folds to the body. Cut out two squares out of construction paper. Roll the squares. Secure the legs to the body. Glue on eyes to your robot's head. Poke holes into the robot's head. Cut out small paper squares. Create feet for your robot. Make ears for your robot. Finished.
https://www.wikihow.com/Convert-Tenths-of-a-Pound-to-Ounces	How to Convert Tenths of a Pound to Ounces	To convert tenths of a pound to ounces, start by multiplying the numbers to the right of the decimal point by 16, since there are 16 ounces in every pound. If, for example, you're working with 17.5 pounds, you would multiply 0.5 by 16 to get 8. That means your final answer would be 17 pounds, 8 ounces. If your converted ounce measurement has decimal places, you would need to round it to the nearest whole number. For example, round 6.992 ounces to the next whole number to get 7 ounces, since 0.9 is greater than 0.5.	Identify the part of the number that you're going to convert. Your starting point should be a number like 5.75 pounds. The.75 denotes the tenths of a pound, so that's the part that you would be converting. Note that the number before the decimal, the 5, is your total number of whole pounds. Type the number of tenths of a pound into your calculator. Make sure that you include the decimal. It will probably automatically add a zero, in which case your number will look something like 0.75 pounds. Multiply that number by 16. There are 16 ounces in every pound, so to convert from tenths of a pound to ounces, you just multiply by 16. The answer will be your total number of ounces. 0.75 times 16 ounces equals 12 ounces. Note that to reverse this process, you simply have to divide by 16 rather than multiplying. So, if your original quantity is 5 pounds, 12 ounces, you could just divide 12 by 16 to get 0.75 pounds. Then add the 5 back in, and 5 + 0.75 equals a total of 5.75 pounds. Write your original number in pounds and ounces. The number of whole pounds from your original number is all the numbers to the left of the decimal. The number of ounces is the answer that you got when you multiplied the tenths of a pound by 16. For the example of 5.75 pounds, the answer would be written 5 pounds, 12 ounces. Write down the number you want to convert. For this method, your number should include decimals. For example, 4.8125 pounds or 0.25 pounds. Underline all the numbers to the left of the decimal point. This number tells you how many whole pounds you have. If you have 4.8125 pounds, 4 is left of the decimal point, so you'll underline the 4. If you have a bigger number, as with 17.5 pounds, underline all of the digits before the decimal point. In this case, you'd underline 17. If the number to the left of the decimal is zero, as with 0.25 pounds, your final answer will only include ounces. You can say "zero pounds" if you want, but it's implied if you just list the ounces. Identify the tenths of a pound. This should include all of the numbers that you didn't underline in the last step. In other words, it's all the numbers to the right of the decimal point. For 4.8125 pounds, the tenths are 0.8125. For 17.5 pounds, the tenths are 0.5. For 0.25 pounds, the tenths are 0.25 Set up your equation. First, you need to know that there are 16 ounces in every pound. So your equation will be 16 times the total tenths of a pound, which is the number you identified in the previous step. Multiply the equation. If the answer has decimal places, you can round it to the nearest whole number. Generally, you round down if the decimal is.4 or lower, and round up if the decimal is.5 or higher. 16 x 0.8125 pounds = 13 ounces 16 x 0.437 pounds = 6.992 ounces. We can round that to 7 ounces, because 0.9 is higher than 0.5, so we round up. 16 x 0.7 pounds = 11.2 ounces. We can round 11.2 to 11 ounces, because 0.2 is lower than 0.4, so we round down. Combine your total number of whole pounds and your total number of ounces. Generally, the larger measure is listed first, so you'll say pounds first, and then the ounces. 4.8125 pounds becomes 4 pounds, 13 ounces. 17.5 pounds becomes 17 pounds, 8 ounces. 0.25 pounds becomes 4 ounces. Write down the number you want to convert. For this method, your number should begin written as pounds and ounces. For example, 7 pounds, 2 ounces. Circle the number of whole pounds. It should be fairly clear from how you wrote the measurement in step 1, but it's just the number of pounds. When you're done with the conversion, this number will be what you write first, to the left of the decimal point. For 7 pounds, 2 ounces, you would circle the 7. For 15 pounds, 6 ounces, you would circle the 15. If your original measurement is only written in ounces, and the total number of ounces is less than 16, the number of whole pounds will just be zero. For example, 13 ounces could be written 0 pounds, 13 ounces. If your original measurement is just written in ounces, and the total number of ounces is greater than 16, then the total number of pounds will be included as all the numbers to the left of the decimal point in your answer at step 5. For example, 100 ounces divided by 16 equals 6.25 pounds. We don't have to look at the original measurement to find the total pounds, because it's included before the decimal point in the answer. Identify the number of ounces. Again, this should be clear from how you've written the measurement in step 1. If you have 7 pounds, 2 ounces, then there are 2 ounces. Set up your equation. There are 16 ounces in every pound. To find your tenths of a pound, you want to divide your total number of ounces by 16. This should give you all the numbers that come after the decimal point. Divide to solve the equation. If you want, you can round so that you have fewer numbers after the decimal. The answer will be less precise, but simpler. To round, just choose the number you want to end with, then look at the next digit. If it's 4 or less, the first number stays the same. If it's 5 or more, the first number rounds up by 1. 2 ounces divided by 16 equals.125 pounds. If you wanted to round it to the tenths place, which is the number right after the decimal point, you would look at the next number. Here, the next number is 2, and 2 is less than 4, so we would round to.1 pounds. 100 ounces divided by 16 equals 6.25 pounds. In this case, you not only get your tenths of a pound, you also get the total number of whole pounds, which is the number before the decimal. Say you want to round 6.25 pounds to the tenths place. 5 is the next number, and it is equal to or greater than 5, so you would round up. The rounded answer would be 6.3 pounds. Now combine your previous answers for the number of whole pounds and the converted tenths of a pound. This number is your final answer. 7 pounds, 2 ounces can be written as 7.125 pounds. 100 ounces is 6.25 pounds.	Identify the part of the number that you're going to convert. Type the number of tenths of a pound into your calculator. Multiply that number by 16. Write your original number in pounds and ounces. Write down the number you want to convert. Underline all the numbers to the left of the decimal point. Identify the tenths of a pound. Set up your equation. Multiply the equation. Combine your total number of whole pounds and your total number of ounces. Write down the number you want to convert. Circle the number of whole pounds. Identify the number of ounces. Set up your equation. Divide to solve the equation. Now combine your previous answers for the number of whole pounds and the converted tenths of a pound.
https://www.wikihow.com/Care-for-German-Shorthaired-Pointers	How to Care for German Shorthaired Pointers	To care for your German short-haired pointer, give it at least 30 minutes of vigorous exercise every day since it's a high-energy breed of dog that loves being active. Along with walking and playing with it regularly, make it a habit to clean its ears at least once a week by using gauze wrapped around your finger since this breed is more prone to ear infections. German short-haired pointers are also susceptible to droopy lower eyelids where dust and dirt can get caught, so you may need to flush your dog's eyes out with a saline solution every now and then to prevent irritation.	Choose the proper dog food for your GSP's activity level. German short-haired pointers have a metabolism similar to that of most other species of dog, so a GSP with an average level of daily activity should be fine with regular adult dog food. If your GSP is a working dog or is just very active, look for a high-energy adult dog food. You can determine if a food is high-quality is by reading the ingredients. If the first two ingredients listed are meat (not meat by-products), then the food is most likely a high quality food. Some dog food companies make dog food that is formulated for medium-sized dogs. This might be a good option for your GSP. Check with your dog's veterinarian or ask your breeder for suggestions if you are not sure what to feed your GSP. If the breeder was using a specific brand of food, then it is a good idea to stick with that brand. Consider your GSP's age. Depending on the age of your GSP, you may need to choose a special age-specific food. For example, if you have a GSP puppy, then you will need a puppy food. If you have an older adult dog, then you will need to choose a senior food. Your dog's age may also affect the number of times that you need to feed him. Adult GSPs will need to be fed twice per day, but puppies may need to be fed more often. If your puppy is: eight to 12 weeks, then do four feedings per day three to six months, then do three feedings per day six months to one year old, then do two feedings per day Develop a regular feeding schedule. Some people choose to free-feed their dogs, which can result in the dog becoming overweight or obese. Therefore, it is better to maintain a regular feeding schedule for your GSP and to measure his food portions. To determine how much to feed your dog, you will need to consider his weight and activity level. Check your dog's food package for a basic guideline on how much to feed your dog according to his weight. If you are still not sure if you are feeding the right amount of food to your GSP, then check with your dog's veterinarian. Most GSPs require between two to five cups of dry food per day. The more active your GSP is, the more food he will need. For example, a dog that is mostly sedentary would probably only need two cups per day, while a GSP that is very active will probably need closer to five cups of food per day. Divide your dog's daily food intake into two meals. For example, if your dog needs two cups of food per day, then you could give him one cup in the morning and one cup in the evening. Provide plenty of fresh clean water. GSPs get thirsty from all of their physical activity, so they need to have access to a bowl of fresh, clean water at all times. Stainless steel bowls are ideal because these are less bacteria-friendly. Keep the bowl of water somewhere that is easy for your GSP to access. Clean the water dish and change out the water it at least once per day. Give your GSP a few treats. Treats are a great way to reward your GSP, but try to keep treats to a minimum to avoid the chance of your GSP becoming overweight. If you want to feed treats try these nutritious, low-calorie foods: baby carrots rinsed canned green beans cooked sweet potatoes, sliced a few frozen peas or blueberries Steer clear of foods that are toxic to your GSP. You will need to avoid feeding your GSP certain human foods that can make them ill or kill them. These foods include: avocados alcohol chocolate grapes and raisins macadamia nuts, almonds, pecans, and walnuts onions, garlic, and chives yeast dough xylitol (often found in sugar free foods) Brush your GSP's coat with a rubber brush. Even though GSPs have short coats, they will still shed if they are not brushed on a regular basis. To reduce shedding, use a rubber brush to go over your GSP's coat about once or twice per week. Start brushing your GSP from a young age so that he will be used to it. To make it more pleasant for him, try giving your GSP a treat after you finish brushing him. Inspect and clean your GSP's ears weekly. GSPs are more prone to ear infections than some breeds, so it is important to inspect and clean your GSP's ears at least once per week. To clean your GSP's ears, you will need to use a damp (not wet) piece of cotton gauze to wipe out the inside of your dog's ear flap. Wrap the gauze around your finger and use your finger to gently wipe the inside of your GSP's ear flap and ear. Do not try to stick the gauze deep into your dog's ears or use a cotton swab on your dog's ears. Check your dog's ears often as well to see if he has any debris or wax buildup in his ears. A good time to check your GSP's ears is when you are brushing him. If you notice lots of wax buildup, discharge, or a bad smell coming from your GSP's ears, then take him to see your veterinarian. Your veterinarian can do a deep cleaning, check for infections, and provide medication for your dog's ears if needed. Trim your GSP's nails. Nail upkeep is important for GSPs because long nails may pose an injury hazard for these active dogs. If your GSP is active, then you may not need to trim his nails often or even at all, but you should trim your GSP's nails whenever they start to click on the ground while he is walking. Be careful to avoid the quick when you trim your GSP's nails. The quick is a blood vessel inside of a dog's nail and it can be extremely painful if you hit it. To avoid cutting the quick, trim a small sliver of nail at a time and check the trimmed surface as you go. If you start to notice a circle on the trimmed surface, stop cutting. The quick is just below this circle. Clean your GSP's teeth. Care for your GSP's teeth by brushing them regularly from the time your GSP is a puppy. You can teach your GSP to like brushing by placing a bit of peanut butter or liver on a dog toothbrush and allowing him to lick the toothbrush. After doing this a few times, he should be more accepting of the toothbrush. Never use human toothpaste on your GSP. Human toothpaste contains ingredients, such as fluoride, that are toxic to dogs. Flush your GSP's eyes with saline solution if needed. GSPs are prone to droopy lower eyelids, which can make it more likely that dust, dirt, and other particles will get into their eyes and cause irritation. If you are spending long periods outdoors with your GSP, then you may need to flush your GSP's eyes out with saline solution now and then to remove these particles. To flush your GSP's eyes out with saline solution, you will need to hold your dog's eyelid open and gently squeeze saline solution into your dog's eyes from just above his eyes. This is much easier with a friend and you will need to be careful not to allow the bottle tip to touch your dog's eye or it may cause injury. Flushing out your dog's eyes with saline solution is similar to giving a dog eye drops but more solution may be required to flush out dust particles and debris from your dog's eyes. Ask your veterinarian for some special saline fluid for your GSP's eyes. Your veterinarian can also demonstrate how to use it. Exercise your GSP often. GSP's are high-energy dogs and they require at least 30 minutes of vigorous exercise every day. Two 30 minute exercise sessions per day are even better. That is why GSPs are best for people with active lifestyles. Try taking your dog along with you on morning walks or runs. Some dogs can even learn to run beside a bike while you ride. If you have a sedentary lifestyle, then consider hiring someone to take your dog for morning runs. You might also consider taking your GSP to a local dog park to play. Otherwise, it is possible that your dog will develop behavioral issues due to boredom and pent up energy. Play fetch with your GSP. GSPs are great fetchers, so playing with a Frisbee or tennis ball in the backyard can be an excellent way to help your GSP get some exercise. Try heading out to your yard once per day to play a game of fetch with your GSP. Playing fetch is also a good way for you to bond with your GSP. Make sure that you have somewhere safe to play fetch with your GSP so he will not be near traffic or other hazards. Give your GSP chew toys. GSPs like to chew, so it is a good idea to provide things like rope toys and rawhide bones for your GSP to chew on. If not provided with something to chew on, your GSP may find an item such as a shoe or something else that is important to you. Try alternating your GSP's chew toys so that he does not get bored of them. Try taking a toy away and exchanging it with a new toy every day of the week. Spend plenty of time with your GSP. GSPs are bred to hunt and track, so they are used to spending lots of time around humans. Even if you do not plan to take your GSP hunting, you should take him along with you to do other things as much as possible. For example, you might take your GSP with you for a hike, a day at the beach, or on a visit to a friend's house. . Consider crate training your GSP Crate training is an excellent way to provide your GSP with a secure space to retreat to when he is feeling scared or overwhelmed. If you decide to use a crate, get one that is large enough for him to stand up, turn around, and lay down in. It should not be any bigger. Place some comfortable bedding and a favorite toy in your GSP's crate to make it a comforting space. Keep the crate open for the first couple of weeks and allow your GSP to investigate the crate and use it as he pleases. After a couple of weeks, you can start to close the door when your GSP is in his crate. Do not keep your GSP in his crate for more than a few hours. Dogs are not meant to be kept in crates for long periods of time. Never use a crate to punish your GSP. Crates are meant to be safe places and your dog should not be afraid to go into his crate. Teach your GSP basic commands. Teaching your GSP some basic commands is another great way to stimulate his mind and enhance your bond. Start by teaching your GSP how to do things like sit, stay, shake, lay down, and heel. You can teach your dog these commands on your own or take a class with your GSP. Use positive reinforcement to train your GSP. Never hit him or yell at him if he disobeys. Instead, provide your GSP with treats, praise, and petting when he does something well. Keep training sessions short and regular. Your GSP will be more likely to maintain his concentration if sessions are kept between five to 10 minutes long. Try to do at least one training session every day. After your GSP has learned these commands, you can teach him some more advanced ones as well. GSPs are intelligent dogs so they are easy to train. Socialize your GSP. GSPs tend to have even temperaments and do not act aggressively towards people, but a poorly socialized GSP may be frightened or confused by new types of people or children. Make sure that you socialize your GSP well from the time he is a puppy. Take him out with you and invite people over so that your GSP puppy encounters all sorts of things such as: children and babies men and women other dogs cats people in hats, holding umbrellas, wearing boots, etc. loud noises crowds cars and bikes Keep your GSP indoors. GSPs do best when they are around people, so housing your GSP indoors is ideal. Make sure that your GSP has a soft bed and that his sleeping area is free from drafts. Due to the short coat of these dogs, they can become cold in the winter. Place a collar with an ID tag on your GSP. GSPs are athletic tracking dogs, so there is always the chance that your GSP will run off if he catches an interesting scent. To ensure that your GSP is returned safely to you, make sure that your GSP is always wearing a collar with tags that provide your address and phone number. You may also want to consider having your GSP implanted with a tracking chip so that he will be identifiable even if he loses his collar. Take your GSP for regular veterinary check-ups. As with all dogs, it is important to take your GSP to see a veterinarian at least once per year for a check-up and to get vaccinations and tests as needed. If you do not already have a veterinarian for your GSP, then find one as soon as possible and take your dog for an initial check-up. Your GSP will need to get vaccines and medicine for: Lyme disease Rabies Heartworm Fleas and ticks Spay or neuter your GSP. If you don't plan to breed your GSP, then you should have your dog spayed or neutered. Spaying and neutering help to control the pet population and it can also prevent your dog from developing some negative behavioral issues. Spaying and neutering may even protect your dog from certain types of cancer and some other health problems. Spayed female dogs are less likely to get certain types of cancer and infections. Male and female dogs that are not fixed are more likely to roam, be aggressive, or engage in other territorial behaviors. Request tests to watch for breed-specific diseases. GSPs are healthy dogs, but they are susceptible to a few diseases. These include hypothyroidism, hip dysplasia, von Willebrand's disease, entropion, and gastric torsion. To keep your GSP healthy, your veterinarian may perform regular tests on your GSP, but you can also request them. These tests include: thyroid test hip exam heart exam eye exam tests for von Willebrand's disease	Choose the proper dog food for your GSP's activity level. Consider your GSP's age. Develop a regular feeding schedule. Provide plenty of fresh clean water. Give your GSP a few treats. Steer clear of foods that are toxic to your GSP. Brush your GSP's coat with a rubber brush. Inspect and clean your GSP's ears weekly. Trim your GSP's nails. Clean your GSP's teeth. Flush your GSP's eyes with saline solution if needed. Exercise your GSP often. Play fetch with your GSP. Give your GSP chew toys. Spend plenty of time with your GSP. . Teach your GSP basic commands. Socialize your GSP. Keep your GSP indoors. Place a collar with an ID tag on your GSP. Take your GSP for regular veterinary check-ups. Spay or neuter your GSP. Request tests to watch for breed-specific diseases.
https://www.wikihow.com/Perform-an-Intervention	How to Perform an Intervention	If your loved one needs help with their addiction, you can stage an intervention to encourage them to get clean. Talk to their close family and friends to put together a small team of people your loved one is likely to listen to. Meet up before the intervention and draft a treatment plan to present to the person. This can include details of local therapy, support groups, and rehab programs. You can also help them on an individual basis. For example, someone can drive them to and from treatment so they'll be more likely to go. Once you've planned your intervention, set a time and place, and invite the person over for dinner or to hang out. That way, they'll be more likely to come. When they arrive, have each person express their concern and offer their support. Then, present your treatment plan and encourage your loved one to get help immediately.	Consult with a professional. To ensure the best chances for success, you should consult with someone who has experience helping addicts and conducting interventions. A professional interventionist will be able to guide you and other family member through the process, increasing chances that the intervention will be successful. You can meet with the professional beforehand to plan things out, and you may even want to invite him or her to the intervention to act as a facilitator. It's especially important to consult with a professional if the following is true: The person has a history of mental illness. The person is likely to get violent in reaction to the intervention. The person has exhibited suicidal behavior. Form an intervention team. This should be composed of five or six people the person in question is close to and respects. The person's parents, siblings, trusted relatives and best friends are likely candidates. Invite people who have been impacted by the person's addiction and are invested in the person's future. It's important to invite people who can be relied upon to be there for the person in times of need, since the intervention is just the first step on the road to recovery. Don't invite people the person doesn't like or trust. The person you're trying to help could end up becoming upset and leaving instead of being receptive to getting help. Don't invite people who might disrupt the intervention by getting too emotional or coming to the person's defense. For example, the person you're trying to help might be close to his little sister, but if she might end up taking his side and telling people he doesn't really need to go to rehab, she'll be doing more harm than good if she's there during the intervention. If you think a certain person should be there, but he or she might disrupt the intervention, have him or her write a letter that can be read out loud instead of coming in person. Find the right treatment plan. The treatment plan you put forward is a central part of what makes interventions effective. Just telling the person that you think there's a problem isn't going to be enough to help him or her stop the addiction. Laying out a well-researched treatment plan the person can begin right away is better than just saying "you need to get treatment." The treatment plan should incorporate ways your loved one can get professional help to overcome his or her addiction. This could mean going to rehab, getting psychotherapy, or beginning some kind of outpatient treatment program. Research facilities and decide what makes the most sense for the person you're trying to help. Figure out what steps are required for admission, and have everything set up in advance. You may also need to figure out how the treatment will be funded. Prepare a list of support groups that your loved one can sign up for right away. You might want to offer to drive the person to the Have a plan in place for making sure the person physically gets to the treatment facility. If it's an inpatient facility, have a plan of action for transporting the person there. If it's an outpatient facility, assign a loved one to be responsible for driving the person to and from the facility on a regular schedule. Decide on consequences to put forward. Each person involved in the intervention should put forward consequences that will be put into place if the person refuses the treatment plan. Difficult as it may be, each person must be willing to make a big change in order to help the person make a new start. The biggest goal is to help the person realize that his or her addictive behavior will no longer be enabled by loved ones. This will make it much harder for the person to continue his or her addictive behaviors. If family members have been hosting the person or lending him or her money, consequences might include cutting off financial aid, or asking the person to find another place to live. For those closest to the person, the consequence might be getting a divorce or changing the relationship in another way. Consider legal consequences as well. For example, instead of bailing the person out of jail after a drunk driving incident, family and friends might vow not to help out next time. There will be no more “rescues.” Choose a location and time. Once the intervention has been planned out, settle on a date and time when everyone can be there. Pick a private place where the person feels comfortable, like a loved one's home. Each person who is to be present at the intervention should understand the gravity of the situation and be sure to arrive at the designated time. Having a no show could end up being disruptive to the intervention. Have a rehearsal. Since the intervention meeting can be very emotional, having a rehearsal beforehand can help. It's very important to keep things on track during an intervention, and rehearsing the entire session will help people stick to the plan when the time comes. If you plan to have a professional interventionist there to guide the session, see if you can schedule a rehearsal with everyone present. Communicate openly with one another and take notes on what the loved one is doing that is harmful to himself and others. Gather the facts about the person you are dealing with. Make confidentiality a clear rule for all partakers in the meeting. Consider creating a list of actions and behavioral patterns that will no longer be tolerated. Next to each activity, write what your action will be if the person continues these behaviors. Have people write down what they plan to say. It's not necessary for people to memorize their lines; this isn't a performance. The important thing is to cover all the bases without straying too far from the program. Anticipate the person's reactions and have responses ready. If the person reacts defensively or with anger, everyone should be prepared to handle it without disrupting the intervention. Invite the person to the meeting without telling them what it is. If you tell the person what's going on, chances are they're not going to come. In order to make sure the person shows up, it's necessary to omit the information that his or her family and friends are staging the intervention. Come up with a plan for having the person go to the meeting spot without being clued in to what's going on. For example, you could tell the person to come to your house for dinner, or meet at a friend's house to hang out. Make sure the plan doesn't seem contrived. Ask the person to do something that's not out of the ordinary. Everyone should already be gathered in the space by the time the person gets there. When the person arrives, state that it's an intervention and tell the person that everyone has something they want to say. Have each member speak. Following the rehearsed format for the meeting, everyone should go around and read his or her prepared statement. If a professional interventionist is involved, he or she can act as the leader of the meeting and call on people to speak. Give each family member or friend the chance to say how the person's actions have personally affected their lives, and how much they love the person and want things to get better. Yelling or acting angry and confrontational is not advised. The person you're trying to help might just get up and walk away if this takes place. People should keep these feelings to themselves for the sake of having a successful intervention. That said, it's fine to express some amount of emotion. Expressing sadness and hope that things will get better could help move the person to action. It's OK to cry. Avoid trying to lighten the mood or otherwise derail the serious discussion taking place. Present the treatment plan. After everyone has spoken, the leader of the group (or the interventionist) should present the treatment the treatment plan to the person. Make it clear that the treatment plan has been thoroughly researched and recommended by experts, and say that everyone believes it's the person's best bet for getting better. Ask the person to make an immediate decision to accept the plan. Discuss what will happen if the option isn't taken. It should be made clear that if the option isn't taken, there will be consequences. Be ready for the person to express anger, start crying or even laugh. Stress the seriousness of the situation and don't back down. End the meeting with concrete next steps. As soon as the intervention meeting is over, the person should begin treatment of some kind. This might mean physically escorting him or her to a facility where they can start detoxing or undergoing treatment, or it might mean starting therapy or an outpatient program. Have the person make a commitment to going through the entire treatment process and doing whatever it takes to stop the addiction from progressing further. Support the person if he or she chooses treatment. It might be awhile before you can determine whether the intervention was successful. Even if the person is initially receptive to treatment, there's a long way to go before things will feel stable and secure again. Help him or her feel connected and supported throughout this difficult period. It's important for everyone involved in the intervention to do their part to make the process as smooth as possible. Many people feel cynical and negative during recovery, complaining about the treatment facility, the therapist, the other members in the support group, and so on. Do not give in if the person asks to end the treatment plan early. Resist the temptation to commiserate, since this can damage the person's resilience. Don't accept half measures. The person may argue that just two weeks of rehab was enough to cure the addiction, or that going to counseling three times a week is too much. Do what you can to help the person stick to the original treatment plan that was approved by a professional, since half measures don't usually work. Be prepared for the person to refuse treatment. Sometimes denial and anger end up winning the day, and the person decides not to get treatment. There's no way to force someone to get treatment if he or she just isn't ready. The most you can do is strongly encourage the person to go forth with the treatment plan, and make it clear you'll support him or her along the way. Even if the person refuses treatment, this doesn't mean the intervention was pointless. Now the person knows that his or her family thinks there's a serious problem. By getting these issues out in the open, family can stop the process of enabling the person's addiction. Enforce the consequences. As painful as it might be, it's important to enforce the consequences that you planned to put in place if the person refused treatment. Allowing the person to just continue living the same way as before the intervention is never going to help. Until the person has full control over his or her addiction, there's always danger that a crisis will happen. The best thing you can do is cut off funding, break up with the person, or do whatever you personally know will create a significant life change that may help the person take a new path. If another crisis happens later, take advantage of it. For example, if the person ends up in jail or in the hospital, use that experience to show the person that he or she really does need treatment. Having a second intervention may be helpful. Remember, you are helping him or her to heal. Sometimes, we need to endure the pain of a loved one in order to provide the person with the help needed to get well.	Consult with a professional. Form an intervention team. Find the right treatment plan. Decide on consequences to put forward. Choose a location and time. Have a rehearsal. Invite the person to the meeting without telling them what it is. Have each member speak. Present the treatment plan. End the meeting with concrete next steps. Support the person if he or she chooses treatment. Be prepared for the person to refuse treatment. Enforce the consequences.
https://www.wikihow.com/Make-Chocolate-Apples	How to Make Chocolate Apples	To make chocolate apples, start by pushing a wooden skewer into the core of each apple you're using. Then, set the apples aside and melt some chocolate using a double boiler. Once the chocolate is fully melted, dip the apples into it, spinning them around so they're fully covered. If you want to add any sprinkles, nuts, or other garnishes, do it while the chocolate is still wet. Finally, place the dipped apples on some wax paper and put them in the fridge for at least 15 minutes to harden the chocolate.	Mix the dry ingredients for the chocolate sauce. Combine 3/4 cup of sugar, 1 ⁄ 2 tablespoons (22.2 ml) of all purpose flour, and 1/2 cup of unsweetened cocoa powder in a bowl. Mix them together with a fork or whisk to combine them evenly and remove any lumps there might have been. Combine wet ingredients for chocolate sauce over heat. Bring a saucepan up to medium heat, then add 1 1/4 cups of milk, 2 tablespoons (29.6 ml) of unsalted butter, and ⁄ 2 tablespoon (7.4 ml) of vanilla extract. Stir the ingredients until the butter has melted completely. Add more vanilla extract for stronger flavor, but don't go overboard! Add the dry ingredients a small portion at a time. If you try to dump all the dry ingredients into the saucepan at once, you'll have a flour-bomb. Instead, add the dry ingredients little by little, whisking them into the wet ingredients to even out any lumps. Increase heat to medium-high and simmer. Keep stirring the sauce to keep it from burning over the higher heat. After about five to six minutes, turn off the heat completely and add a pinch of salt to add depth to the flavor. Crush the candy canes into powder. There are many ways you can do this, so use whatever is handy in your kitchen. The most obvious method would be to use a mortar and pestle. Snap the candy into smaller, more manageable pieces, and put them in the mortar a few at a time. Use the pestles to grind the candy down into a powder or small shards — whichever you prefer. You can also use a hammer or meat tenderizer. Place the candy cane in a sealable plastic bag, snapping it into smaller pieces to fit if needed. Place the bag on a stable surfaces, then pound at the candy with the hammer or meat tenderizer until it reaches the texture you prefer. Use whatever you can find around the house. Be creative, but be safe. Peel and core your apples. Use a vegetable peeler to remove the outer skin from the apple, being careful not to cut your fingers in the process. Stand the apples up, then, using a sharp knife, slice down along the edges of the core to remove the edible flesh of the apple from the inedible core. Cut the edible flesh into smaller slices as you see fit. Top the apple slices with chocolate sauce and crushed candy cane. Lay them out either on a large plate or over a length of tin foil, if you want to avoid the extra dishes. You can finish your chocolate apples any way you like. Some choices might include: Dip the entire apple slice in chocolate sauce, or dip only half the slice. Use a spoon to drizzle chocolate sauce lightly over the apple slices. Wag a spoonful of sauce quickly back and forth, allowing the chocolate to drizzle down lightly over the apple slices. Top them with the crushed candy, letting the sauce work as an adhesive. Put out a bowl of chocolate sauce and a bowl of crushed peppermint, allowing your guests to dip and sprinkle themselves, deciding how much garnish they want for their apples. Refrigerating them before serving them sets the chocolate a little bit, which some people prefer. Wash and dry your apples. You can use whichever type of apple you like, but the tartness of Granny smith apples goes well with the sweetness of chocolate. Remove any produce stickers that might be on the apples' skin, then rinse them under water to remove any chemicals or germs that might be on the surface. Dry them with a clean towel. Push a wooden skewer into the core of each apple. This will allow you to eat the apple like a lollipop once it's been dipped in chocolate. You may have to press firmly, but you should be able to ease a stick into the apple fairly easily. Cut 16 ounces of chocolate into small pieces. If you can find good quality chocolate in chocolate chip form, skip this step. However, if you bought a bar of chocolate, you'll need to cut it up into smaller pieces. If you bought a chocolate bar that snaps easily into bite-sized pieces, break it up along the suggested lines. If it's a solid bar, use a sharp knife to break the chocolate bar down into very small chunks. If the pre-portioned pieces of chocolate from your bar are too large, run your knife through those, too. The smaller the pieces, the more quickly and easily the chocolate will melt down into a sauce. Melt the chocolate over a double boiler. If you try to melt chocolate over high heat too quickly, you might burn the chocolate and ruin your whole sauce. To guard against that, use the double boiler method to steam the chocolate gently from below, warming it evenly and preventing it from burning. To create a double boiler, you'll need a large saucepan; a double boiler pan that fits over the saucepan, but does not touch the bottom of it; and a stirrer. Fill the bottom of the large saucepan with water, making sure that the water does not touch the bottom of the double boiler pan when it's in place. Place the saucepan, water, and double boiler pan combination over medium-low heat on the stove. Place the chocolate pieces in the double boiler pan. As the steam from the hot water rises up to the double boiler pan, the chocolate will begin to slowly melt. Stir the chocolate to speed up the melting process and ensure an even texture to the sauce. When the chocolate has melted through, turn off the heat source. Dip the apples in the melted chocolate. Hold each apple by the skewer, and dip it into the chocolate in the double boiler pan. Roll it around to make sure that the apple is completely covered by chocolate sauce. Garnish the apples. If you want to add any other toppings to the chocolate apples, do it immediately after rolling the apple in the chocolate sauce, while it's still wet. You can top the apple with anything that strikes your fancy. Some common toppings include chopped hazelnuts, sprinkles, crushed candy canes, and so on. You can dip the apple into a bowl of the topping, or you can sprinkle the topping over the apple. Place dipped apples on wax paper and refrigerate to harden. Place a sheet of wax paper over a cookie pan, then place each apple upside down on the wax paper. The skewer should be sticking up toward the sky. Place the cookie pan in the refrigerator for at least 15 minutes to allow the chocolate to harden once more, then you're ready to serve your chocolate apples!	Mix the dry ingredients for the chocolate sauce. Combine wet ingredients for chocolate sauce over heat. Add the dry ingredients a small portion at a time. Increase heat to medium-high and simmer. Crush the candy canes into powder. Peel and core your apples. Top the apple slices with chocolate sauce and crushed candy cane. Wash and dry your apples. Push a wooden skewer into the core of each apple. Cut 16 ounces of chocolate into small pieces. Melt the chocolate over a double boiler. Dip the apples in the melted chocolate. Garnish the apples. Place dipped apples on wax paper and refrigerate to harden.
https://www.wikihow.com/Paint-an-Outdoor-Concrete-Patio	How to Paint an Outdoor Concrete Patio	To paint an outdoor concrete patio, start by repairing any cracks or crevices in the surface and cleaning it thoroughly. Next, mask off any areas you want to protect with painter's tape, apply a coat of primer to the surface, and let it dry completely. Apply a coat of paint around any edges or joints with a small brush, then use a roller to apply the first coat of paint to the rest of the surface. Let the paint dry before deciding to apply additional coats!	Clear the surface. Remove all furniture, decorations, plants, pots, toys, and any other items you have on your patio. You need a clear surface to work with to ensure your patio is cleaned properly and painted evenly. Cover plants and landscaping near the patio with tarps to protect them from cleaning solutions and water run-off. Repair cracks in the concrete. Clean out the crack(s) with a wire brush. Vacuum or blow out any dust and dirt, or use a broom to make sure the crack is clean. Fill the crack with masonry crack filler. Depending on the brand, either apply the filler with a scraper, or a caulking gun (if necessary). To fill deeper or wider cracks, fill them by a quarter-inch (six mm) at a time. Allow the product to dry between applications according to label instructions. For best results, repair cracks in completely dry concrete. If the concrete is slightly damp, dry with a blow dryer or heat gun, then wait fifteen minutes. If more water has seeped into the crack, protect the concrete from water until it dries on its own. Sand down grout- or concrete-based fillers with fine sandpaper, then clean the area a second time. (Do not sand self-leveling or latex-based sealants). Remove moss, roots, and vines. Pull out anything that has grown on the surface of the concrete, and spray the patio down with a pressure washer if you have one. If you don't have a pressure washer, remove what you can by hand, sweep the patio, and hose it down to remove any excess clumps, dirt, or debris. Borrow a power washer from a neighbor or rent one from a tool rental company or home and building store if you don't have one of your own. A pressure washer will be very useful for cleaning and rinsing your concrete patio prior to painting. To clear a large amount of vegetation, spray a broad-spectrum herbicide such as glyphosate (Roundup) at least two weeks before cleaning. Clean the concrete surface. Concrete can absorb and trap dirt and grease. To ensure it is completely clean and has a fresh surface for paint to adhere to, scrub the concrete with a product that will draw substances out, such as trisodium phosphate, muriatic acid, or phosphoric acid. These products will also help remove old paint, which needs to come off before repainting.These products are not designed to remove old paint. Read all safety information before you begin. Many concrete cleaning products require everyone in the area to wear rubber gloves, eyewear, masks, rubber boots, and protective clothing. Rinse the concrete so the surface is wet. Apply your cleaning solution (acid, trisodium phosphate, or other cleaner) as per the manufacturer's instructions. Scrub the concrete with a stiff brush. If you use muriatic or phosphoric acid, this process is called etching, and will ensure the concrete has a sandpaper-like texture that paint will stick to better. Etching should be done before painting new or bare concrete. Flush the surface. It is best to use a power washer, as this will wash away excess debris, old paint, and efflorescence, a whitish salt deposit that forms on surfaces like concrete and stucco. If there is still any old paint left on the concrete, scrub it with a wire brush and continue power washing until it's gone. If you used an acid solution to etch the concrete, neutralize the pH on the surface by sprinkling baking soda over top before rinsing. Especially after etching, be sure to rinse the concrete with water until no chalky powder comes off the surface when you touch it with your fingers. Test the concrete for moisture content. Before painting your patio, make sure that paint will adhere in the first place. All concrete is porous and absorbs moisture, but if your concrete patio contains too much moisture, you won't be able to paint it until you correct the moisture content. Take an 18-inch by 18-inch square of aluminum foil or thick plastic and tape down all four sides, sealing the square to the concrete with tape. Wait 16 to 24 hours. After that time, carefully remove the square of foil or plastic and check the concrete and the underside of the square for condensation or moisture. If the concrete is still damp, wait until weather allows complete drying. Protect the area from sprinklers and garden runoff. Proceed once the concrete is completely dry. Select your paint. Since you are painting concrete in an outdoor area, not just any paint will suffice. Regular exterior paint will likely crack on a concrete surface and peel off shortly after being applied. There are several types of paint that will work for your outdoor concrete patio, and they include: Concrete paints that contain sealants or waterproofing features, so the paint is designed to resist water, salt, oil, and grease. This is a good choice for paint because it's specifically designed for outdoor concrete and resistance to various substances and elements. Latex, water-based, or oil-based exterior paints that are designed for floor, patios, or porches. These paints are also a good choice, as they are designed for exterior use and are specific to withstand foot traffic. Masonry paints that contain added binders and epoxies. While it may bond well with the concrete, it won't necessarily protect your concrete from the elements. Garage floor coatings with colorful additives to protect and decorate at the same time. Choose a color. To help you decide what color to paint your patio, consider what color the exterior of your house is, and what color your patio furniture is. Take color swatches with you to the paint store so you can compare your existing decor with your paint choices. Don't be afraid to ask the paint specialist for help and advice! Consider using a primer. A concrete or block primer will give you a nice, even surface to work with, instead of the uneven, porous surface of non-primed concrete. It will also reduce the number of coats required to properly cover your surface. Choose an exterior-grade primer if you're going to use one, and make sure it's designed for concrete. Concrete primers are often called concrete, masonry, or bonding primers. Primer has a lower viscosity than paint, so it absorbs into the concrete substrate a lot better. Once it's absorbed in, it creates a binder that the paint will stick to. If you don't use a primer and there's any moisture under your patio, the paint will peel right off. Determine how much paint you need. Once you've decided what kind of paint you're going to use, you will need to do some basic calculations to determine how many cans of paint you'll need to cover the patio surface. Check the paint can or manufacturer's website regarding how much coverage one can provides, and compare that with the square footage of your patio. Square footage is determined by multiplying the length by the width of the area you are dealing with. Don't worry if your patio isn't perfectly square or rectangular: you just need a basic idea of the area you're going to cover. Don't forget to take into account whether you plan on applying multiple coats. A primer will reduce the likelihood of having to apply more than one or two coats of paint. Assemble your tools and equipment. Before getting started, get together all the tools you're going to need for painting. The best painting tools for this will be a masonry brush, a high-capacity roller, or a texture roller. The equipment you'll need may include: Primer (optional) and paint A paint roller frame and cover A paint tray Roller and brush extenders Masking or painter's tape Thick and thin brushes Plastic or painter's tarps Protect your surfaces. Use tape to line the surfaces touching your concrete patio, such as deck edges, exterior walls, doors or windows, and other areas that you don't want to accidentally paint. Cover the ground nearby with tarps if necessary. Choose the right day. Ideally, begin painting on a dry day when there has been no rain in the previous 24 hours, and none is expected in the long-range forecast. The best temperature for outdoor painting is about 50 F (10 C). Apply your primer. Make sure your patio is completely dry before beginning to paint or prime. Pour your primer into a paint tray. Take one of your thinner brushes and dip it into the primer a few times. Wipe off the excess on the inside of the paint tray, and make sure the brush has an even coat of paint on it. Start by applying primer with the brush around any edges or places where the patio touches other buildings or parts of the house. Use a roller or thicker brush and extender to apply primer to the rest of the patio. Apply in two different directions for even coverage. Let your primer dry. While it should be dry in about two hours, wait at least eight hours before you begin painting. However, don't let more than 30 days elapse. If you are reusing your brushes, rollers, and trays, make sure you clean them well and let them dry before reusing them. Pour your paint into the paint tray. The tray will make it easier to coat your brushes or rollers evenly with paint, and this will make it easier for you to apply even coats of paint to your patio. Paint around your patio edges. Use a smaller paint brush to apply a coat of paint around any edges, joints, or other areas that are too awkward for the roller or larger brush. Be sure to use the smaller brush to apply paint to any part of the patio adjoining areas where you placed tape, to ensure you don't get paint on other walls, decks, or windows. Apply your first coat of paint. Choose a starting point, such as an interior corner against the house, and work your way out from there. Don't paint yourself into a corner or center where you won't be able to get out again without walking over fresh paint. Use even brush or roller strokes to apply a thin, even layer of paint. Attach your roller or brush to your extender so you can remain standing while painting. This will help prevent injury to your back, knees, and wrists. If you're using a brush instead of a roller, ensure it's big enough to cover a large area so that your paint doesn't dry before you finish a section. Let your first coat dry. Concrete and exterior paints can take six or more hours to dry before they're ready for additional coats, so be sure to check the manufacturer's recommendations. Apply the necessary coats. Follow the same steps as before. Use a smaller brush around delicate or awkward edges and a larger brush or roller to complete the coat. Apply a sufficient number of coats to achieve the desired depth of color you want for your patio. Two or three coats are usually required. Apply each new coat in a different direction than the last, to ensure even coverage. Allow the paint to dry and cure. While you will likely be able to walk on your patio after 24 hours, you should wait about seven days before replacing furniture.	Clear the surface. Repair cracks in the concrete. Remove moss, roots, and vines. Clean the concrete surface. Flush the surface. Test the concrete for moisture content. Select your paint. Choose a color. Consider using a primer. Determine how much paint you need. Assemble your tools and equipment. Protect your surfaces. Choose the right day. Apply your primer. Let your primer dry. Pour your paint into the paint tray. Paint around your patio edges. Apply your first coat of paint. Let your first coat dry. Apply the necessary coats. Allow the paint to dry and cure.
https://www.wikihow.com/Season-Brown-Rice	How to Season Brown Rice	If you want to season your brown rice, try adding herbs and spices as soon as your rice finishes cooking. To cook your rice with herbs and spices, bring your rice and water to a boil, then set it to simmer for 35 to 45 minutes. Once your rice is fully cooked, add your seasonings, like soy sauce, dried basil, ground ginger, or cayenne pepper. If you want more subtle flavors, use whole spices. Otherwise, ground spices will bring out the flavor much more. Allow your rice dish to sit for 5 minutes to absorb the flavor before serving it.	Combine your rice with cooking oil or melted butter in a pan. Put 1 cup (175-185 grams) of rice into a pan and pour enough cooking oil or butter in to evenly coat it, usually 1 tablespoon (15 mL). Toast the rice in the oil over medium heat. You'll know it's starting to toast once you smell a nutty aroma. Avoid grapeseed and canola oil. Instead, use fattier oils like sesame oil, coconut oil, or olive oil to get more flavor. Mix in the herbs and spices of your choice. Your choice of herbs and spices will depend on the specific flavor profile or ethnic cuisine you're interested in making. Regardless of what seasonings you choose, sprinkle them over your toasting rice a little bit at a time until they are at the strength you like based on your own tastes. Seasonings like oregano, pepper, parsley and turmeric go well with brown rice, usually in amounts between ¼ teaspoon (1 gram) and 1 teaspoon (4 grams) depending on your tastes. Adding aromatic seasonings in small amounts (a single shallot, a clove of garlic, or 1 tablespoon (14 grams) of chopped ginger) will give your rice tons of flavor. Add 2.5 cups (590 mL) of boiling water to the pan. While your rice is toasting, boil water separately in a pot or kettle. When it has reached a boil, pour it over your seasoned rice in the pan. Simmer the rice for 20 minutes. After adding the boiling water, stir the contents of your pan and then cover it with a lid. Cook the mixture on low for 20 minutes. Once the rice is cooked, let it stand for 5 minutes, then uncover it and fluff it with a fork. Put the rice and broth in a large pot. Mix 1 cup (175-185 grams) of rice and 2.5 cups (590 mL) of broth together in a pot. Make sure to use a pot with a wide base, so that the heat from your stove disperses as evenly as possible. You can also consider using a liquid mixture of half broth and half water to add some flavor to your rice without making it too rich depending on your tastes. Bring the broth to a boil. Cook your rice and broth mixture on high heat until the broth begins to bubble. You should stir the mixture regularly during this stage to prevent the rice from sticking to your pot. Cover the pot and let it simmer for 40-50 minutes. Turn your stove down to low heat and cover your rice and broth mixture with a lid. Let the mixture simmer until the rice has absorbed most of the moisture and has a tender texture. Stir your rice occasionally to keep it from sticking to your pot. Let your cooked rice stand for 5 minutes covered and then fluff it with a fork. Bring rice and water to a boil. Combine your rice and water in a small saucepan at a ratio of 2/3 cup (115-125 grams) of rice to 1.3 cups (310 mL) of water. Cook the rice and water on high heat until it begins to bubble. Simmer the rice for 35-45 minutes. Reduce the heat to low and cover your rice. Cook the rice at a low simmer until it has absorbed all of the moisture in the saucepan. The rice should be tender but not mushy. Mix your seasonings into the rice. Add 1 tablespoon (15 mL) of soy sauce, 0.5 teaspoons (2.5 mL) of dried basil, 0.25 teaspoons (1.2 mL) to 0.5 teaspoons (2.5 mL) of ground ginger, and 0.125 teaspoons (0.62 mL) of cayenne pepper to your cooked rice. Allow your rice to sit covered for 5 minutes and then fluff it with a fork You can also season your rice with other herbs and spices according to your tastes. The herbs and spices you use will depend on your own personal tastes and the cuisine you're trying to prepare. Whole spices will give your dish a more subtle flavor, while ground spices will help bring out the flavor of your rice. Adding a bay leaf to your pan will give your dish an earthy flavor that will complement almost any rice dish.	Combine your rice with cooking oil or melted butter in a pan. Mix in the herbs and spices of your choice. Add 2.5 cups (590 mL) of boiling water to the pan. Simmer the rice for 20 minutes. Put the rice and broth in a large pot. Bring the broth to a boil. Cover the pot and let it simmer for 40-50 minutes. Bring rice and water to a boil. Simmer the rice for 35-45 minutes. Mix your seasonings into the rice.
https://www.wikihow.com/Make-a-Ballet-Bun	How to Make a Ballet Bun	To make a ballet bun, start by brushing your hair and pulling it back into a smooth ponytail at the crown of your head. Then, secure the ponytail with an elastic and spray a little hairspray on it for extra hold. Next, twist your ponytail clockwise into a tight rope, then wind the rope clockwise around the ponytail holder. After that, put bobby pins that match the color of your hair all around the bun to keep it in place.	Brush your hair free of tangles. Get your hair straight and even, brushing it straight back as if you were putting it into a ponytail. A little water can help smooth things out and make your hair more manageable, when the need arises. Pull your hair back into a ponytail, using a comb or brush to remove the bumps. If necessary, spray the hair with a quick-drying hairspray. The best height is right on the crown of your head, so that you could just see the top of the ponytail poking up if you look in the mirror. A tight ponytail ensures you have fewer wisps of hair coming free and keeps you from having to re-do your bun later. The ponytail should be tight, but not so tight that it causes tension and breakage. Secure the ponytail with an elastic. It is important to have a strong foundation for your bun so it doesn't fall down. A small elastic will hold the hair in place while you craft your bun. You can then spray a little hairspray onto the ponytail to give it a little extra hold. Twist the ponytail into a tight rope. A tight rope will lead to a more secure bun, but don't make it so tight that it breaks your hair or hurts. Some ballerinas like to create their bun in 2 parts by splitting their hair in half to make twisting easier. If you do this, simply repeat the following steps for both halves. Start to tightly wind the strand of hair around the ponytail holder. Follow the direction you twisted in for a neat, tight bun. If you twisted clockwise, wrap clockwise. You want to keep the rope of hair close to the ponytail holder. Use bobby pins to start securing everything down. Fasten the hair with bobby pins that match your hair color. Place pins at 12 o'clock, 3 o'clock, 6 o'clock, and 9 o'clock, if your bun was a clock face. Place extra pins in between these sections as well, especially if your hair is thick. If the first half of your bun feels a little shaky, put more bobby pins in if desired. Many ballerinas prefer the U-shaped pins, as they capture more hair and hold longer. Repeat these same steps for the second half of your ponytail, if necessary. If you do, make sure your twist and turn the second half the opposite way as the first. Spray with hairspray if there are any wisps or frizzy hair. This also helps secure the bun, though it is not strictly necessary. Spritz your hair with some water before beginning. This can make the hair a bit easier to manage, and keep loose strands from flying off. Use water and a comb to really straighten out your hair, combing out any bumps or fly-away hairs causing problems. If you have thicker or unruly hair, a little gel may be helpful, too. Add a little texturizing spray before "bunning" for a better hold. If you've recently washed your hair, and everything is silky smooth, you might try a texturizing spray to give the strands some hold. Like most up-dos, this look is a bit easier to pull off with "day old" hair. But, if you're fresh and clean, some texturizer should do the trick. Use your other hand to curl the hair around your ponytail. With one hand around your tight coil of hair, use the other hand to keep to press and hold the bun around your ponytail as you wrap it. The curl between your thumb and first finger, for example, is a great tool to help mold a perfectly rounded bun. Split the ponytail down the middle and build the bun in 2 parts. For girls with thinner hair, or for a more "classic" look, you just twist the entire ponytail. But for girls with thick or uneven length hair, or for a slightly more secure hold, you can go with the "2-part" method. Simply pull the ponytail in half, then twist and wrap both halves around the base of the ponytail for a "figure 8" bun. If you're doing the bun in 2 parts, simply repeat the exact same process for both parts. However, when you get to the wrapping and pinning, just make sure the 2 strands are wrapped in opposite directions (1 clockwise, 1 counter-clockwise). Cover your bun with a hair net that matches your hair color for extra security. If you have blonde hair, don't use the gray hair net because then your bun looks purple. If you're a brunette, don't use the blonde hair net because then you have a lighter bun than the rest of your hair.	Brush your hair free of tangles. Pull your hair back into a ponytail, using a comb or brush to remove the bumps. Secure the ponytail with an elastic. Twist the ponytail into a tight rope. Start to tightly wind the strand of hair around the ponytail holder. Fasten the hair with bobby pins that match your hair color. Spray with hairspray if there are any wisps or frizzy hair. Spritz your hair with some water before beginning. Add a little texturizing spray before "bunning" for a better hold. Use your other hand to curl the hair around your ponytail. Split the ponytail down the middle and build the bun in 2 parts. Cover your bun with a hair net that matches your hair color for extra security.
https://www.wikihow.com/Tell-How-Old-a-Betta-Fish-Is	How to Tell How Old a Betta Fish Is	To tell how old a betta fish is, measure the fish and asses the size of its fins. Adult bettas will usually be around 3 inches long and have long, flowing fins, while juveniles will be smaller with shorter fins. Another way to tell age is by looking at the coloring of the betta. Bettas are vibrant and colorful when young and generally become duller and more faded as they age. You can tell if bettas are old by seeing if they have a humped body or cataracts in their eyes.	Check your betta's size. Normal adult bettas are usually around 3 inches (7.6 cm) in length. Hold a measuring tape up to your fish's tank and see how long it is. If your betta is less than the average, your betta is most likely a juvenile. It can be hard to measure a betta exactly. In most cases, it will be enough to simply get an estimate by holding up a measuring tape against the glass. Be patient since most healthy bettas do not stay still often. Check your betta's fins. Adult bettas have nice and beautiful flowing fins. If your betta has this characteristic, this is a good sign that it is an adult. If it has tiny fins, then it is either a juvenile or a baby. Make sure you know the sex of your betta. Female bettas never get long, flowing fins like the males do. Don't confuse normal wear with injuries from diseases. Crowntails naturally have 'torn'- looking fins. Assess the color of your betta. In general, young bettas are vibrant and middle-aged bettas are slightly faded. The color of the scales of an older betta will be slightly faded and muted. Look for changes in your fish's body. You might notice that with every day, your betta seems to be getting paler or even with daily feeding your fish gets skinnier. These are signs of an aging betta. Pay attention to changes in energy. Your betta will flare with much less gusto than it used to when it get old. After so many years, many bettas lose the enthusiasm to flare. Also, while a healthy adult betta will swim around vigorously in its tank, old bettas will hide behind plants and décor and swim sluggishly. When feeding your betta, watch it to see how quickly it spots its food. Old bettas may swim slowly to their food and miss it a couple of times before spotting it. Look for cataracts on the betta's eyes. Old bettas tend to have "cataracts," which are filmy or hazy spots inside the eye. This is normal for old bettas, and will happen no matter how big the tank you have is or how clean you keep the water.	Check your betta's size. Check your betta's fins. Assess the color of your betta. Look for changes in your fish's body. Pay attention to changes in energy. Look for cataracts on the betta's eyes.
https://www.wikihow.com/Treat-Anxiety-Attacks	How to Treat Anxiety Attacks	If you are experiencing symptoms like a racing heart, debilitating terror, or trouble breathing, you may want to treat yourself for an anxiety attack. Look for a quiet place where you can practice deep breathing exercises, which will naturally relax your body. Then, breathe in slowly for a count of 4, hold your breath for 1 or 2 counts, and release the air for 4 counts. You could also try to overcome your panic by saying positive statements to yourself, like "I am completely safe," "I am not in danger," "This feeling will pass," and "I am getting calmer by the minute." However, consider calling a friend if you would rather talk through your feelings with someone you trust.	Recognize the symptoms. There are several symptoms of an anxiety attack, and each person has a unique feeling when an attack happens. In the middle of a panic attack, your body enters “fight or flight” mode. Since this response can't be sustained long-term, an attack generally fades after a few minutes. Nonetheless, some people experience repeated attacks that span hours. The most common symptoms of an attack are: Racing heart Feeling flushed or hot Debilitating terror Experiencing chest pains Having trouble breathing Experiencing “pins and needles” in the fingers or toes Thinking that you will die Feeling claustrophobic Breathe deeply. One of the common side effects of an attack is not being able to catch your breath. Therefore, mastering deep breathing can be one of your strongest weapons during an attack. Try to control your breathing by placing one hand on your belly and the other on your chest. Exhale sharply and let your upper body fall into a relaxed state. Now, breathe in slowly through your nose for 4 counts. You should feel the hand on your belly moving outwards. Pause and hold the breath for 1 or 2 counts. Now, gradually release the air out through your mouth for 4 counts. Repeat the process for several minutes as the natural relaxation response comes into effect. Try to find a quiet place. Frequently, panic attacks are set off by feeling overwhelmed in a large group of people. Go to a quiet room or corner where you can feel your back against a wall, grounding you. Sit down if you can, and drink some water. While getting away from your environment may help, you want to try your best to resume your usual activities as soon as possible. You can stop panic attacks that occur during any activity by learning relaxation and grounding techniques. Reorient yourself to the environment. Derealization and/or depersonalization involve feeling as though you are disconnected from the surrounding environment or from your body respectively. Some people experience these sensations during anxiety attacks. Grounding techniques are an effective remedy for derealization and depersonalization. Connect with your reality by grounding yourself in what is tangible and pulling your attention away from panic. Attempt to close your mind off to one sense at a time while practicing deep, calming breathing. Stand up and feel your feet touching the ground. Only focus on how it feels to be standing, how your feet feel in your shoes or against the floor if barefoot. Then, rub your fingers along the wall. Think about how that feels. Notice how your hair feels up against your ear, or how your clothes feel on your body. Finally, listen to the noises around you. What sounds do you hear? Continue to breathe deeply as you connect with the different sensations. Fend off anxiety with water. Once your breathing has steadied, you might feel confident enough to go to a bathroom to wash up. If possible let the water run over your face or dip your face into the sink for a few seconds. The refreshing feeling can sometimes help calm you down. Another strategy for diverting your attention away from anxiety is holding an ice cube in the palm of your hand (covered with a paper towel if you like). Hold onto the cube for as long as you can; then, switch hands. Your attention becomes focused on the discomfort of the cold ice and less on your panic symptoms. Talk to a friend or someone you trust. Sometimes they can help you talk through your feelings; sometimes just having someone to talk to can keep your mind preoccupied and get you through a panic attack. Avoid criticizing yourself. Many people who experience panic have a tendency to beat themselves up or criticize themselves. Try to go easy on yourself in the midst of an attack. Getting angry or upset without yourself for not being strong enough or succumbing to an attack won't help. Replace self-criticism with compassion. Be gentle with yourself as you would a friend. Instead of judging yourself for not snapping out of it, hug yourself and inwardly tell yourself to take the time you need to calm down and relax. If you are guilty of being hard on yourself, think about the statistics. Having an anxiety attack does not make you weak or crazy. More than 6 million people in America struggle with panic disorder. What's more, if you are female, you are twice as likely to be afflicted by this condition. Remind yourself that you have survived before. A common thought during a panic attack is that you are going to die. Fear and dread hold your common sense captive and all you can think about is escaping this feeling. It may be helpful to remind yourself that you have lived through an attack before. You are a survivor. All you have to do is continue to control your breathing and eventually the attack will pass. Talk yourself back to a calm state. Positive self-talk is an incredibly useful strategy for overcoming panic during an attack. In addition, regularly using this form of thinking can also minimize the level of anxiety you feel throughout the day. Tell yourself the following: ”I am completely safe.” ”I am not in danger.” ”This feeling will pass.” ”I am getting calmer by the minute.” See a psychiatrist for medications to ease anxiety attacks. Doctors generally prescribe anti-anxiety and antidepressant medication to individuals who suffer from panic disorder. These medications are extremely powerful as many reduce the symptoms of anxiety attacks immediately. Anti-anxiety medications, such as benzodiazepines and tranquilizers, function by reducing the excess activity in the brain. Depending on the dosage, these drugs may provide relief from anxiety within thirty minutes to an hour after ingestion. They also come with side effects like depression, drowsiness, impaired thinking, and dizziness among others. Antidepressants have been found to treat the symptoms of anxiety, too. However, these medications are often prescribed to treat chronic anxiety and will not be helpful during acute anxiety attacks. You would take them to prevent attacks rather than to relieve one. Talk to your doctor about how to use your medications. Follow the instructions carefully, if your doctor has prescribed medication. Many anti-anxiety medications have addictive qualities; taking more than prescribed can be dangerous. And, remember, never share your prescriptions medications with other people. Participate in therapy. Most people find that panic disorder is treated effectively with a regimen of both medication and psychotherapy. A research-backed and long-lasting therapeutic solution, for panic disorder and anxiety is cognitive behavioral therapy. Cognitive behavioral therapy involves identifying the sources of fear, recognizing faulty thinking patterns, and developing healthy coping mechanisms to life stressors. You may see positive results after approximately three to four months, if not sooner, of participating in this approach. Avoid stimulants. If you are prone to panic attacks, you will do well not to consume caffeinated products such as tea, coffee, and even chocolate. If you smoke, you may want to quit since nicotine is a stimulant as well. Alcohol, in small doses, can even serve as a stimulant. These chemicals often worsen anxiety by exciting your central nervous system and generating energy that creates panic. Exercise regularly. When you get your body moving, even if only for a 10-minute walk, you may find your mood is vastly improved. Research has found that, for some people, aerobic exercise can elevate your mood, decrease tension, and improve sleep and self-esteem. Data suggests that frequency is more important than how long you exercise, so instead of going for a marathon gym session over the weekend, try to work in a 15–20 minute walk every day.	Recognize the symptoms. Breathe deeply. Try to find a quiet place. Reorient yourself to the environment. Fend off anxiety with water. Talk to a friend or someone you trust. Avoid criticizing yourself. Remind yourself that you have survived before. Talk yourself back to a calm state. See a psychiatrist for medications to ease anxiety attacks. Talk to your doctor about how to use your medications. Participate in therapy. Avoid stimulants. Exercise regularly.
https://www.wikihow.com/Test-THC-Levels	How to Test THC Levels	To test the THC levels in your marijuana, you'll need a home testing kit. To use one, just mix a few drops of testing solution with a small amount of marijuana. Then, place a drop onto a test slide, wait 10 minutes, and check the color against the color chart. To test THC levels in your body, you can get a blood serum or saliva test in a drug screening lab. You can also get a urine or hair follicle test, but these only show recent marijuana use. Keep in mind that even common tests aren't completely accurate for detecting THC levels in the body.	Buy a home test kit. There are kits available for detecting the type and concentration of both of the two main compounds (or “cannabinoids”) found in marijuana, THC and CBD. In this case, you'll want to choose a kit that looks for THC in particular. A combination kit that tests for both THC and CBD will also give you the information you're looking for, though the results may be slightly more difficult to interpret. You should be able to pick up a cannabinoid test kit at your local clinic or dispensary. If you don't have one of these places in your area, try looking online. Home test kits typically sell for between $20-100, depending on the level of precision you're looking for. Choose a strain of marijuana for testing. Running a quick test will make it possible to find out approximately how much THC is in the strain you're using. This can be useful if there was no medicinal information on display when you bought the product, or if you want to verify the contents on your own to determine the best dosage. Only test one type of cannabis at a time. Make sure the strain you're testing hasn't been in contact with any other strains—this could throw off your reading. In most places where marijuana is legal, vendors are required by law to provide the cannabinoid content for the strain they sell. However, this is not always the case. Home testing is a good way to learn more about a certain strain before you put it in your body. Read through the instructions carefully. Home test kits are relatively simple to use, but they all work a little bit differently. Look over the included instruction booklet or procedural summary on the back of the box to learn exactly how to conduct the test. Otherwise, there's a chance that the results might not be accurate. Most kits contain multiple tests, which can give you a second chance if you make a mistake the first time around. Place a small amount of marijuana in the small test vial. Separate out roughly ⅕ gram and drop it onto the bottom of the vial. It only takes a minimal amount to achieve accurate results. The kit you're working with should specify the exact amount of cannabis you'll need to use. Break up large clumps to allow the sample to fit inside the vial and infuse into the testing solution. A pair of tweezers may come in handy for handling tiny test samples. Add the testing solution to the vial. Squeeze a few drops from the bottle of clear solution included with the kit. Use only as much as directed. The solution will act as a solvent to draw out the compounds in the cannabis and make them easier to identify. Basic test kits tend to only call for about 1 ml of fluid, while more sophisticated systems may require as much as 15 ml. If your kit came with more than one testing solution, make sure you add each in the correct proportion. Close and shake the vial. Secure the snap-top lid, double checking that it's properly sealed. Shake the vial back and forth vigorously for 5-10 seconds, or long enough to partially disintegrate the cannabis sample inside. When you're done, prop the vial upright against the box or another surface so the sample stays pooled at the bottom. Hold your thumb over the lid of the vial while you shake it to keep it from coming open accidentally. Transfer the solution to a test slide in slide-based kits. Some home test kits use glass slides rather than vials. Once you've dissolved the sample in the testing solution, use the pipette tool to add a drop to a fresh slide. Then, place one end of the slide in a shallow dish filled with the remaining solution. After a few minutes, the solution will slowly wick up the slide, separating the various compounds into distinct, easy-to-read layers. Slide tests are more nuanced and are designed to make the color-coded results easier to interpret. They are often used with combination kits. Wait 10 minutes for the sample to react. Set a timer to go off after the exact interval listed in the instructions. As it sits, the solution will gradually begin to change colors. A deeper color means higher levels of a certain cannabinoid. Let the sample sit for the full 10 minutes. If you check it before it's had enough time to reach its final shade, the resulting reading will be incorrect. Check the sample against the color chart included with the test kit. The color chart will most often be located on the box or somewhere within the printed instructions. Hold the vial up to the section of the chart it matches most closely. A quick comparison will tell you the approximate concentration of THC in the strain you're testing. Color charts will usually be labelled to indicate a range of potency rather than an exact percentage. For example, a sample that comes back light blue may contain only 5% THC, while one that's royal or navy blue might be closer to 20%. If you're using a slide test, make sure you're looking at the layer that corresponds to THC to avoid confusing the reading for that of another compound. Evaluate your testing options. Blood serums and saliva tests are the most commonly used methods of testing THC levels. Other types of tests, like urine screenings and hair follicle analysis, are considered unreliable because they only indicate that marijuana has been used recently. They may not pick up THC at all after it has passed out of the user's system. Look up drug screening labs in your area to find out if there's somewhere you can go to have a blood or saliva sample taken. If you live in Australia, you might be able to purchase a home saliva-testing kit to check your THC levels. Perform your tests as soon as possible. There are many factors that determine how long THC will show up in a standard fluid test, including your body composition, blood chemistry, and the type and amount of cannabis you've used. In order to reduce the ambiguity of the results, it's important to run a sample as soon as possible. Depending on how frequently you use marijuana, you may have a few hours to a few days before all detectable traces have disappeared from your system. In most parts of the world where THC is labeled as a controlled substance, the acceptable legal concentration you're looking for is 5 nanograms per milliliter of blood or less. Because of how rapidly THC breaks down in the body, a fresh sample will usually have deteriorated before it can be processed. Accept the limitations of body-level THC tests. To date, there is no surefire way to detect THC while it's active in the body. It's important to be aware that whatever test you use might not be totally accurate, especially if you're conducting it yourself without the benefit of specialized lab equipment. A rough estimate may be the best you're able to get. It's difficult even for most researchers to interpret the effects and lifespan of THC in the body. Familiarize yourself with the laws pertaining to marijuana use in your area. Be aware that marijuana can only be obtained legally in places where medicinal or recreational use is allowed. THC in particular is often classified as a controlled substance, which means being caught with it without a permit can get you into serious trouble. Having an understanding of the law will help you stay safe and avoid unfortunate consequences. You could be subjected to a hefty fine or even jail time for the unlawful purchase, possession, or use of marijuana.	Buy a home test kit. Choose a strain of marijuana for testing. Read through the instructions carefully. Place a small amount of marijuana in the small test vial. Add the testing solution to the vial. Close and shake the vial. Transfer the solution to a test slide in slide-based kits. Wait 10 minutes for the sample to react. Check the sample against the color chart included with the test kit. Evaluate your testing options. Perform your tests as soon as possible. Accept the limitations of body-level THC tests. Familiarize yourself with the laws pertaining to marijuana use in your area.
https://www.wikihow.com/Figure-Out-Your-Yearly-Salary	How to Figure Out Your Yearly Salary	To figure out your yearly salary, start by multiplying the number of hours you work each week by 52 to determine how many hours you work a year. Next, multiply your hourly wage by the total number of hours worked. Then, make sure to account for any unpaid time off. For example, if you have a 2 week unpaid vacation, multiply the number of hours you worked by 50 instead of 52 to account for the 2 unpaid weeks.	Find out your hourly wage. You probably already know how much you make per hour. For example, you might make $15/hour. But if you don't, you'll need to find this information. Your hourly wage should be listed on your pay stub, if your employer provided one. If you aren't sure, you can also ask a manager, or someone in the personnel/human resources department. Calculate the total hours you work each year. Multiply the number of hours you work each week by 52, the number of weeks in a year. Remember, too that you should include any vacation hours earned or paid in a year. For instance, if you work 50 weeks out of the year, but you earn a two-week paid vacation, then your total weeks paid is 52. If you take unpaid vacations, then take this into account as well. For instance, if you work 40 hours a week, your math would look like this: 40 hours * 52 weeks = 2080 hours a year. Multiply your hourly wage by the number of hours you work each year. Now, all you have to do is multiply your hours by your wage. Following the example above, $15 * 2080 = $31,200. This is your annual salary. Keep track of your hours. Write down the number of hours you work each day. At the end of the week, calculate how many hours total you worked. You can use a variety of electronic applications, online software, or even just write it in a notebook. If your hours vary from week to week, you will want to keep track of your hours for a longer period of time. Then, you can average the numbers. For example, if you work 10 hours one week, 25 the next, 15 the following, and 30 the last week, you end up with 80 hours for the month. Divide this by 4 weeks and you get an average 20 hours a week. If your hours vary a great deal between different times of the year, you may need to track an even longer period. For example, imagine you work 50 hours a week for a couple of weeks around the holidays, but only 20 hours a week during the summer. This is going to affect your calculations a lot. In the case of large variations, you might even have to track your hours over a whole year to get an accurate figure. Determine how many overtime hours you worked. If you work more than 40 hours in a 7-day period, your employer must pay you at one and a half times your regular wage. In other words, you should receive a half-hour credit for every hour you worked over 40 hours in a week. The formula for this calculation is: Total weekly payroll hours = Actual hrs worked + [.5 * (actual hrs worked - 40)] For example, say you work 45 hours one week. This is 5 hours of overtime. Multiply 5 by.5. This gives 2.5 extra hours.. Add this to the 45 regular hours. For this calculation, your hours for the week are then 47.5, rather than 45. Calculate how many hours you work in a year. To figure this out, multiply the average weekly payroll hours by 52. For example, if you usually work about 45 hours a week, multiply 47.5 hours (adjusted for overtime) by 52. This equals 2,470 hours a year. If you track your hours for a whole year, you can simply add them up, rather than multiplying a weekly average by the number of weeks worked. Calculate your salary. Multiply the number of hours by your hourly wage. For example, if you make $15/hour multiply 2,470 by $15. This equals an annual salary of $37,050. Include bonuses. Add any bonuses, commissions or incentive payments you got to the annual salary figure. Many hourly positions have incentive arrangements that add to the hourly wage. For example, you might receive bonuses based on productivity, leadership, or tenure (length of time at the job). Some employers provide a holiday bonus to all employees each year. Sticking with the example in Part 1, imagine you get $200 bonus every year. Your math would look like this: $31,200 + $200 = $31,400. If you receive a commission or other variable bonuses, you'll need to keep track of them over the course of a year to include them here. For example, imagine you get a $50 bonus every time you reach a certain level of sales. If you get this bonus 12 times over the course of a year, you multiply $50 time 12, getting $600. Sticking with the above example, you would then add $31,400 + $600 to get $32,000. Deduct benefits and payments. If you're paying into your health care or a 401(k), you may want to subtract these costs to get a measure of your "take-home pay." These amounts are still technically a part of your income. But, they represent money that does not increase your purchasing power. Look at your pay stub to find out how much is deducted for these expenses each month. To get an annual figure, multiply the monthly payment by 12. Subtract it from your annual income. For example, if health care costs you $150 a month and you're putting $200 into a 401(k), that adds up to $350. $350 x 12 = $4200. Subtract this from your annual salary. Determine how much you pay in taxes. This will let you figure out your salary before or after taxes. You'll need to look up where you fall in the federal tax bracket to determine how much you'll pay in federal income tax. Your annual income will determine how much you are taxed. There are online tax bracket calculators that can help you figure this out if you don't know which bracket you are in. Your state tax will depend on where you live. Some states have no income tax. For those that do, it will probably be about 5-6%. You can find your state's income tax rate online. Subtract your income tax percentage from 100%. For example, if you're in the 20% bracket, you'd end up with 80%. Change this percentage to a decimal by moving the decimal point two places to the left. For example, if you keep 80% of your income, the decimal equivalent would be.80 (or just.8). Multiply your monthly income by the decimal to get your pay after taxes. You can calculate either your monthly or annual pay in this way. If you make $2800 a month and fall in the 30% tax bracket, your decimal equivalent is.7. Multiply $2800 x 0.7 to get $1960 a month. This is the amount you receive after taxes are taken out.	Find out your hourly wage. Calculate the total hours you work each year. Multiply your hourly wage by the number of hours you work each year. Keep track of your hours. Determine how many overtime hours you worked. Calculate how many hours you work in a year. Calculate your salary. Include bonuses. Deduct benefits and payments. Determine how much you pay in taxes.
https://www.wikihow.com/Fold-a-Note	How to Fold a Note	To fold a note into a square, start by folding it in half vertically twice so it's a quarter of its original width. Then, fold the upper left corner down to the right edge of the paper, and fold the lower right corner up to the left edge. Next, fold each corner over again the same way. Now, flip the paper over, and fold the upper triangle to the right and the lower triangle to the left. Once you've done that, flip the paper back over, and fold the lower triangle up to the meet the upper triangle. Finally, fold the upper triangle down to the bottom edge of the note, and slip the tip of the triangle into the pocket at the very bottom.	Place a square note on your work surface so it looks like a diamond. If you wrote your note on a rectangular piece of paper, fold one of the long edges inward to make your note into a square. Position the note so the writing is face-up and the corners are at the top, bottom, and each side of your work surface. If you want to make your note extra special, write it on the non-colored side of a square piece of origami paper. Fold the top corner down to the bottom corner and unfold it. Fold the paper in half horizontally and crease it. Unfold it so the diamond has a line running horizontally through the middle between the 2 side corners. Your note will now look like the type of diamond on playing cards but with a horizontal crease in the middle. Fold the left corner to the right corner and unfold it. This time, fold the paper in half vertically. Crease the note so there is a line running through the middle. Your note will now look like a diamond in front of you with vertical and horizontal creases running through the center. Fold the top corner down to the center of the horizontal crease. Take the top corner and fold it down until the point meets the horizontal crease in the middle of the note. Crease it so it stays folded. Your note will now look like a diamond jewel instead of the type of diamond from playing cards. Fold the bottom corner up to the top edge. Take the bottom corner and fold it up away from you until the point meets the top edge. Make a sharp crease in the fold. Your note will now look like a diamond jewel with the bottom point cut off. Bring the bottom left and right edges to the vertical center crease. Fold the left and right sides up at an angle so that the bottom edges line up with the vertical center crease. Crease them so they stay folded. You will now have what looks like a heart with sharp edges. Hide the top and side corners at the back of the note to round the heart. Fold the 2 top corners as well as the left and right corners back behind the heart. Crease them well by running your fingernail along the folds to keep them tucked back behind the heart. Your note is now ready to be delivered with your message of love! Fold the note into vertical quarters. Lay the note vertically in front of you, face up, and fold the paper in half vertically. Make a second vertical fold so that the paper is now 1/4 of its original width. Note that the height or length of the paper will remain unchanged. Bring each corner inward like a triangle. Fold the upper left corner diagonally to the right so the edge of the folded corner is flush with the edge of the paper strip. Fold the bottom right corner diagonally to the left in the same manner. Make sure you only fold enough of the end so that the edge of the folded corner remains perfectly aligned with the edge of the paper strip and does not overlap at all. Make another inward diagonal fold on each end. Fold the upper triangle down and to the right so that it meets the edge of the paper strip on the other side. Fold the lower triangle up and to the left the same way so that the edge of the triangle and the paper strip are flush. There will be a slanted parallelogram on each end. The first 2 triangles you folded will be hanging off the main body of the paper. Flip the note and fold in the triangles on each end horizontally. Turn the note over so the back side is facing you. Fold the upper triangle down to the right and the lower triangle up to the left so that you have 1 parallelogram shape composed of 4 different triangle sections. You will be left with 2 triangles that hang off the main body of the note but are aligned with the edges of the main body. Flip the note back over and fold the lower triangle portion up. Turn the note back over so the front side is facing you again. Fold the bottom edge of the back lower triangle up to meet the lower edge of the front upper triangle. You will now be left with 1 triangle hanging off of the main square body. Fold the upper triangle portion down. Fold the top edge of the back triangle over the front of the note so that it meets the bottom edge of the note. Your note will now look like a square. The only thing remaining is a final maneuver that holds the note together. Slip the outermost triangle into the lowest pocket. Move the tip of the triangle facing you into the pocket at the very bottom of the note. Tuck it in securely to keep your note together and secret. You will be left with a square note divided into 4 separate triangular sections. Put your note in front of you and fold it in half vertically. Lay the piece of paper in front of you on a flat surface with the note facing you. Fold it down the middle vertically and crease it so it is long and skinny. Note that the width will be halved but the height will remain unchanged. Crease the bottom left and top right corners into triangles. Bring the upper right corner diagonally down and to the left so the edge is flush with the edge of the paper, then crease it. Fold the lower left corner diagonally up and to the right so the edge is flush with the edge of the paper, then crease it. Unfold the corners so you can see the crease marks. The edge of each corner will be aligned with the edge of the note when you fold them. Fold the bottom right and top left corners into triangles. Bring the upper left corner diagonally down and to the right and the bottom right corner diagonally up and to the left so the edges of the triangles are flush with the edges of the paper. Crease them and then unfold them to leave visible lines. Make sure to crease the edges well so that the folds leave easily visible marks. You can do this by running a fingernail over the folds before you unfold them. Bring the top and bottom edges of the paper inward to the corners of the creases. Fold the top edge of the note down widthwise so that the crease marks left behind by your previous folds overlap evenly. Fold the bottom edge up in the same manner. At this point you will be decreasing the length of the paper. The width will stay the same. Tuck the folded corners in to make each end of the paper into an arrow. Push in on each corner so that the start folding inwards. Press the corners in between the top and bottom layers of paper until you create an arrow. When you've done this step, there will be a triangle-shaped arrow at the top end of the paper and at the bottom end. When looking at the top triangle from the bottom, each tucked-in corner will form an "M" shape. Fold each vertical side towards the center under the flaps of the arrows. Slightly lift the edges of both triangles to exposing the bottom portion of the note. Bring the flat edges of the note in vertically toward the exact center and crease them to tuck them in between the layers of the arrows. You will now be left with a double-sided arrow shape with a middle body that is skinnier than the width of the arrows. Each outside edge will meet with the exact vertical center of the note. Overlap the arrows and fold the note in the middle. Bring the bottom arrow up so that it overlaps the top arrow. Crease the note in the middle horizontally. You will now have just a single-sided arrow. Slip the bottom layer into the top arrow to secure your note. Slightly unfold the note so that you will be able to slip the tip of the top arrow under the bottom arrow. Tuck the top arrow into the fold of the other arrow underneath and flatten the whole note. You will now be left with a secure arrow that has 1 head and your secret note inside. Fold the note in half vertically so it is long and skinny. Put the note flat in front of you so that it is oriented like a normal sheet of note paper. Fold it like a hot dog and crease the middle so it stays folded. The width will be halved while the height will remain unchanged. Crease 1 upper corner and 1 lower corner into triangles. Bring the upper left corner diagonally down and to the right so that the edge of the folded triangle is flush to the edge of the main body. Fold the lower right corner diagonally up and to the left in the same manner. Unfold both triangles after you crease them. Make sure to crease the folds well before you unfold them so you can still see the lines. Repeat the previous folds with the other 2 corners. Bring the upper right corner diagonally down and to the left and the lower left corner diagonally up and to the right. Crease them well and then unfold them. The edges of both triangles will be flush to the edge of the main body of the note when you fold them. Fold the top and bottom edges of the note inward. Bring the top edge down so that the corners meet the start of the marks made by your triangle folds. Do likewise with the bottom edge by bringing it up to meet its corresponding crease marks. You will now have a rectangle slightly smaller than the rectangle you started with. Push the folded corners in gently to create arrows. Push in on each corner so that they turn inwards.. Tuck the corners in between the top and bottom layers of the note to make them into a triangle. From the front, the resulting shape will look like a short rectangle with a triangle on the top and triangle on the bottom. When viewed from the bottom of the fold, each tucked corner will form an "M" shape. Flip the paper and fold the bottom triangle up. Fold the bottom triangle up from the bottom of the note, on the backside, so the base of the triangle lines up with the bottom of the paper. This will create a straight edge at the bottom. Your note will now look like a square with a triangle on top. Think of it as a house shape. Fold the upper triangle down and crease it. Bring the point of the upper triangle down so that it meets the base of the lower triangle. Crease it well and unfold it temporarily. Note that the base of the upper triangle does not need to line up with the top of the paper. It is more important that the point of the upper triangle meets the base of the lower triangle. Form a small diamond with the bottom corners. Take the top layer of the bottom right corner and fold it up so that it meets the point of the bottom triangle. Repeat this with the bottom left corner to make the diamond shape. You will be looking at a square with a diamond in the middle and a triangle on top. Refold the top triangle and form a diamond with its corners. Fold the top triangle down so it overlaps the bottom triangle again. Fold the top layer of the right and left corners down to meet the tip of the upper triangle. This is just the inverse of what you did at the bottom of the note. Bring the bottom corners in temporarily to make a horizontal crease. Take the bottom tip of each half of the newly-created top diamond. Bend the tips inward toward the top tip of the diamond. Crease the folds well and unfold them back to the previous shape. The goal here is to create a horizontal crease across the left and right sides of the newly-created top diamond. Pull the flaps of the bottom diamond into those of the top. Bring each half of the bottom diamond up so that it crosses the base layer of the paper. Make sure each side is resting behind the corresponding half of the top diamond. The note will now look like a rectangle with 2 loose flaps on the upper diamond. Tuck the flaps of the upper diamond into the newly-created pockets to secure them. Carefully unfold each flap. Fold the flaps in the opposite direction and tuck them into the top-most pockets. You will now have a rectangular note with a secure diamond on the front. Flip the paper over and fold the sides in. Turn the note over so the back side is facing you. Fold the right vertical edge to the left and the left vertical edge to the right so it slightly overlaps. Only fold the edges as far as they will go comfortably and without ripping them. Tuck the left side into the right side and flip the note over. Slip the points of the left side into the corners of the right side to secure the shape. Turn the note over to the front once more. You will now have a securely folded note with a diamond on the front and your message secretly written inside!	Place a square note on your work surface so it looks like a diamond. Fold the top corner down to the bottom corner and unfold it. Fold the left corner to the right corner and unfold it. Fold the top corner down to the center of the horizontal crease. Fold the bottom corner up to the top edge. Bring the bottom left and right edges to the vertical center crease. Hide the top and side corners at the back of the note to round the heart. Fold the note into vertical quarters. Bring each corner inward like a triangle. Make another inward diagonal fold on each end. Flip the note and fold in the triangles on each end horizontally. Flip the note back over and fold the lower triangle portion up. Fold the upper triangle portion down. Slip the outermost triangle into the lowest pocket. Put your note in front of you and fold it in half vertically. Crease the bottom left and top right corners into triangles. Fold the bottom right and top left corners into triangles. Bring the top and bottom edges of the paper inward to the corners of the creases. Tuck the folded corners in to make each end of the paper into an arrow. Fold each vertical side towards the center under the flaps of the arrows. Overlap the arrows and fold the note in the middle. Slip the bottom layer into the top arrow to secure your note. Fold the note in half vertically so it is long and skinny. Crease 1 upper corner and 1 lower corner into triangles. Repeat the previous folds with the other 2 corners. Fold the top and bottom edges of the note inward. Push the folded corners in gently to create arrows. Flip the paper and fold the bottom triangle up. Fold the upper triangle down and crease it. Form a small diamond with the bottom corners. Refold the top triangle and form a diamond with its corners. Bring the bottom corners in temporarily to make a horizontal crease. Pull the flaps of the bottom diamond into those of the top. Tuck the flaps of the upper diamond into the newly-created pockets to secure them. Flip the paper over and fold the sides in. Tuck the left side into the right side and flip the note over.
https://www.wikihow.com/Access-the-Caps-Lock-Key-on-an-iPhone	How to Access the Caps Lock Key on an iPhone	Open your keyboard in one of your iPhone's apps, then double-tap the upward arrow in the lower-left corner.	Open your iPhone’s Settings. This is a gray cog icon on your home screen that may be in a folder labeled “Utilities.” Tap General. Scroll down and tap Keyboard. It's in the sixth set of options. Slide the “Enable Caps Lock” button to the “On” position. It will turn green. This will allow you to use Caps lock on your keyboard to type in all capital letters. It may already be in the “On” position, and you won't need to do anything. Open your iPhone’s keyboard. This will happen automatically when you tap a text field you can type in such as a search bar, the address bar for Safari, a note in your Notes app, or the bar at the bottom of a conversation in Messages. Double-tap the arrow in the lower-left of your keyboard. A line will appear under the arrow if you have done this correctly, and Caps Lock will be turned on. To perform a double-tap, you need to tap twice quickly. If you wait too long between taps, it will not work. In earlier iOS versions, the arrow will be white with a blue background when Caps Lock is on. Tapping once on the arrow is similar to pressing ⇧ Shift on a computer keyboard, and will allow you to type one capital letter. Begin typing. You will be able to type capital letters until you tap the arrow again. When you leave the keyboard that displays the alphabet, such as when you tap 123 or access your emoji keyboard, it will also turn Caps Lock off.	Open your iPhone’s Settings. Tap General. Scroll down and tap Keyboard. Slide the “Enable Caps Lock” button to the “On” position. Open your iPhone’s keyboard. Double-tap the arrow in the lower-left of your keyboard. Begin typing.
https://www.wikihow.com/Make-Cement	How to Make Cement	To make cement from scratch, buy or collect limestone and break it into 2 inch chunks. Put the chunks into a kiln, set the kiln to 900 °C, and let the limestone bake for 4-5 hours. Be sure to wear a respirator when you pull out the limestone, then let it cool completely. Once it's cool, slip on work gloves and crumble the limestone into a fine powder with your hands. The resulting powder is cement, which you can mix with water, sand, and gravel to make concrete!	Purchase or collect limestone. If you live near a riverbed or other area where limestone is prevalent, you may be able to find limestone naturally. If not, you'll need to purchase limestone. It can typically be found at landscaping supply stores, and may be available at large plant nurseries or garden centers. If you're unsure whether or not the rock that you've collected is limestone, use a coin to scratch the surface of the rock. Limestone is soft and can be scored by the edge of a coin. Break the limestone into small pieces. Take sturdy shovel and stab it into the limestone in order to fracture the rock and break it apart. You'll be heating the rock in a kiln for an extended period of time, and the smaller you can break up the chunks of rock, the less time you'll have to heat them. Aim to break the limestone into pieces not larger than 2 inches (5.1 cm) across. Cook the limestone in a kiln or outdoor oven. In order to ready the limestone for use in cement, place it in a kiln or outdoor wood oven. Turn the kiln up to 900 °C (1,650 °F), and leave the limestone to “bake” for 4 or 5 hours. Always wear thick work gloves when working with a kiln. The gloves will also be useful when you're pulling the baked lime back out of the kiln, since it could severely burn your skin. Let the baked limestone cool. After the 4 or 5 hours have passed, pull the baked limestone out of the oven or kiln. Set it nearby and let the chunks cool off before you touch them. Be careful not to breathe in fumes from the baked limestone, as they are caustic and could damage your lungs. The baked limestone is called quicklime. Consider wearing some kind of respirator when pulling the quicklime out of the kiln. Quicklime is harmful to the body, and even breathing in its dust can harm your lungs. Crumble the baked limestone chunks. If the limestone has been baked for long enough, it should have a dry, crumbly consistency. Put on a pair of work gloves and use your hands to crumble the cooled limestone into a fine powder. The resulting powder is cement, which you can mix with water, sand, and gravel to make concrete. If you need to store some of the crumbled quicklime for later use, store it in an airtight container. Select the right type of cement. Large hardware stores and home-supply stores (such as Lowe's or Home Depot) will stock a large variety of cement types. For example, if you're setting gate posts, purchase an anchoring cement. If you're laying a patio or a driveway, opt for a fiber reinforced cement. If you are using the cement for a variety of projects or are not familiar with using cement, purchase either a regular (multi-purpose) or fast-setting mix (like Quikrete). Consult the sales staff at the hardware store for additional help selecting a type of cement or concrete. Purchase cement with aggregate if you’re laying thicker concrete. If you are laying a single layer of concrete that will be thicker than ⁄ 4 inch (1.9 cm)—such as a building foundation or driveway—purchase cement with aggregate mixed in. Aggregate is stones and gravel added to the cement mixture to make it stronger and less likely to crack. If you prefer not to buy cement with aggregate already included, you can also purchase gravel at a hardware store and add this into the aggregate-free cement later. Put on two layers of hand protection. Cement is messy, and it will likely get all over your hands. If cement contacts your skin directly, brush it off immediately. To protect your hands, first put on a pair of latex gloves. Then, over these, put on a pair of sturdy work gloves. To protect your eyes, you should also always wear a pair of safety goggles when working with cement. Since cement will harm your lungs, think about wearing a surgeon's mask or bandana over your mouth when pouring dry cement. Cut open the bag of cement and empty the contents in a wheelbarrow. Use the blade of your shovel to stab an opening in the bag near one end. Then grab the cement bag firmly by the other end, and upend it so the powder spills out into the wheelbarrow. If you prefer to use a machine mixer rather than mixing by hand, you'll pour the opened bag of cement into the machine basin. Avoid shaking the bag as your pour out the cement powder. It's very dusty, and shaking the bag will fill the air with cement powder. Add water to the cement powder. Using a garden hose, add a reasonable amount of water to the center of the dry cement powder. Start by adding about 1 gallon (3.8 L) of water. It's best to start out with a smaller amount of water and add more as needed—it's inconvenient to add a second bag of cement if you add to much water to the first batch. If you're mixing multiple bags of cement, you'll quickly get the hang of how much water is necessary. Mix the water into the cement powder. Use your shovel to stir the water into the dry powder. Pull the dry cement mix from the outer edge of the wheelbarrow into the wet center, and stir until there is no dry powder left in the wheelbarrow. Ideally, the cement should be a little runny at this point, about the consistency of thin putty. Stir slowly, so that the water doesn't slosh over the sides of the wheelbarrow. If you're using the mixing machine, simply flip the “On” switch and let the machine stir for you. Add a shovel-full of sand if required. Most fast-setting bags of concrete mix will already contain sand, so you won't need to add any. If you purchased cement without sand already mixed in, add 3 or 4 shovels-full of sand to the soupy concrete mixture, then stir until the sand has been worked in. The technically correct ratio of mixing cement with sand is 1 part cement, 3 parts sand, and 3 parts water. However, you can customize this ratio as you see fit. For most projects, you won't need 3 times as much sand as cement. Start with a 1:1 ratio instead. If you're planning to add aggregate to your concrete mixture, add the aggregate now as well. Add sand and aggregate separately to ensure that each gets fully mixed into the wet concrete. Gather thick, clay-rich mud. If you are located near a river, lake, or other body of water, you can gather mud from its banks. Otherwise, you may need to make your own mud by digging up clay-rich soil and adding water to it. The clay should be a thin consistency so that it will mix well with dry grass. A clay-rich mud or soil will result in a strong, durable cement. Gather an armload of dry grass. Walk to a nearby field or riverbank and pull up a large armload of old, dead grass. You'll use this to mix with the mud. Green grass will not work. The grass needs to be dry and hard in order to make suitable survival cement. Cut the grass to a usable length. The grass that you've harvested will probably be very long, which will prevent it from mixing well with the cement. Solve this problem by using a field knife to cut the grass down into a suitable length. It will be most convenient if you do this on top of a large tarp. For most projects, the grass will work best when cut into sections between 6 inches (15 cm) and 12 inches (30 cm). Pour the mud out on the tarp. Do this near the location where you've set the cut grass stalks. Once the mud is on the tarp, set about half of the grass on top of the mud. Stomp the mud and grass together. Either wearing shoes that you don't mind getting muddy, or barefoot, step up and down on top of the mud and grass mixture until the two elements have been fully smashed together. If you don't want to get your shoes or feet dirty, fold a corner of the tarp on top of the mud and grass and stomp on top of that. Roll the mud and grass back on itself. At this point, the mud and grass will be smashed into a flat layer. Pick up one edge of the tarp, and lift until the mud/grass mixture folds back over itself. Do this a couple of times, until the mixture is roughly in a round shape. Add the rest of the grass and stomp again. Place the remaining half of the dry grass stalks on top of the mud and grass mixture. Walk in place on top of the mixture, using the same technique as before. This will force all of the newly-added grass to fully blend with the mud/grass mixture, leaving you with well-blended survival cement. At this point, your survival cement is finished. Begin shaping and working with it immediately, as the mud will dry quickly. You can form your batch of survival cement into a series of bricks, which can be built into a small hut in adverse survival conditions. In non-survival situations, you could use these cement bricks to build a retaining wall or fire pit.	Purchase or collect limestone. Break the limestone into small pieces. Cook the limestone in a kiln or outdoor oven. Let the baked limestone cool. Crumble the baked limestone chunks. Select the right type of cement. Purchase cement with aggregate if you’re laying thicker concrete. Put on two layers of hand protection. Cut open the bag of cement and empty the contents in a wheelbarrow. Add water to the cement powder. Mix the water into the cement powder. Add a shovel-full of sand if required. Gather thick, clay-rich mud. Gather an armload of dry grass. Cut the grass to a usable length. Pour the mud out on the tarp. Stomp the mud and grass together. Roll the mud and grass back on itself. Add the rest of the grass and stomp again.
https://www.wikihow.com/Make-a-Circuit	How to Make a Circuit	To make a circuit using a battery, start by screwing a bulb into a bulb holder. Then, remove 1 inch of wire covering from the end of a red copper wire and black copper wire. Next, connect the red wire to one side of the bulb holder and the other end to the positive terminal on the battery. Afterwards, connect the black wire to the other terminal on the bulb holder. Finally, touch the other end of the black wire to the battery to light up the bulb.	Screw a bulb into a bulb holder. A bulb holder is a device made to hold a light bulb. It also has 2 terminals. One is for a positive lead and the other is for a negative lead. This allows you to pass a current through the light bulb in the holder. Be sure to use a low-powered light bulb (e.g., in the range of 1-10 volts). Remove about 1 inch (2.5 cm) of wire covering from each end of 2 copper wires. You should use 2 different colored copper wires. This will help you differentiate between the positive and negative lead. Use a knife or wire strippers to cut 1 inch (2.5 cm) of the plastic insulation (the colored part) off of each end of both wires. This exposes the copper wire underneath. Red and black wires are the most common, but you can use other colors too, like red and white. Don't cut through the actual wire. You just need to cut through the plastic insulation that is covering the wire. Once you have cut it, you can peel or slide it off of the wire. Take care not to cut too deep as you are cutting through the plastic insulation over the wire. If you cut into the copper wire itself, you could weaken it and cause it to break. Connect the positive lead. Generally, red wire is used to connect the positive end. One end of the red wire will connect to one side of the bulb holder. The other end of the red wire should touch the positive lead on the battery. If you weren't able to get any red wires, then choose 1 of your 2 colors to be the positive wire. Connect the negative lead. Black wire is usually used to connect the negative end. Again, one end of the wire should touch the terminal on the bulb holder (not the same terminal as the positive wire). The other end of the wire can be left unattached until you are ready to light the bulb. Light the bulb. Touch the unattached end of the negative (black) wire to the negative terminal on the battery. This completes the circuit and allows electricity to flow. The electricity is forced to flow through the light bulb, which causes the bulb to light up. Set up the power pack. The power pack should be on a flat, level surface. Plug the power pack into an outlet. This will provide a steady supply of power to your circuit. Plug the wire leads into the power pack. Make sure to choose a light bulb with a voltage that's within the voltage range of the power pack. If the power pack has an adjustable voltage range, set it to the lowest possible voltage when you turn on the power so that you don't burn the bulb. Connect the light. Screw the light into a bulb holder. Then connect each lead from the power pack to one of the terminals on the bulb holder. Once both leads are connected, the light will light up. If the light does not light up, check that the leads are well connected and the power pack is plugged in and turned on. Adjust the voltage. You can turn a dial on your power pack to cause the voltage to fluctuate. Doing this can demonstrate how the brightness of the light changes as a result of higher or lower voltages. The light should get dimmer as the voltage goes down, and brighter as the voltage goes up. Don't turn on the voltage any higher than what the bulb is rated for. Cut 1 wire lead. Remove power from the circuit before cutting any leads. It does not matter if you cut the positive or negative lead. You can use a pair of wire cutters to cut the lead anywhere in the circuit. The switch will provide control of the circuit no matter where it is located. It is dangerous to cut into a live wire (one with power on it). Always disconnect the circuit before cutting leads. Attach the lead wire from the battery to the switch. Once you have cut 1 of the lead wires, you can attach it to the switch. The switch will have 2 simple terminals. Attach the lead wire coming from the battery to one of these terminals. Leave the other terminal alone for right now. Attach the lead wire from the switch to the bulb. The second piece of wire should be attached to the bulb holder terminal. Attach this piece of wire to the second terminal on the switch. This will again complete the circuit. Unlike in the previous experiment, this will not complete the circuit and turn the bulb on. In order for that to happen, you have to flip the switch! When you attach the switch to the circuit, make sure the switch is off (open). If you leave the switch on (closed), there will be voltage present when you attach the wire from the switch to the bulb holder terminal. You can also open the circuit by removing the light bulb from the holder. Toggle the switch. As you flip the switch on and off, it will open (break) and close (complete) the circuit. This will either prevent or allow electricity to flow. When the circuit is open, the light will be off. When the circuit is closed, the light will turn on.	Screw a bulb into a bulb holder. Remove about 1 inch (2.5 cm) of wire covering from each end of 2 copper wires. Connect the positive lead. Connect the negative lead. Light the bulb. Set up the power pack. Connect the light. Adjust the voltage. Cut 1 wire lead. Attach the lead wire from the battery to the switch. Attach the lead wire from the switch to the bulb. Toggle the switch.
https://www.wikihow.com/Remove-Pen-Ink-Stains-from-a-Silk-Dress	How to Remove Pen Ink Stains from a Silk Dress	If there's a pen ink stain on your silk dress, luckily there are several ways to remove it with cleaners that you likely already have in your home. When possible, treat the ink stain immediately so it doesn't have time to set. If the stain is recent, try blotting it with a cloth or paper towel to absorb any excess ink. Then, lay some paper towels under the affected part of the fabric and spray it with hairspray until the area is saturated. Once the stain is wet, dab at the ink with a clean cloth to lift the ink. If this doesn't work, pour some rubbing alcohol onto a clean cloth and dab at the stain until the stain lifts.	Blot the stain with paper towel. Treating the ink stain immediately will make removing the stain much easier. If the ink stain is recent and hasn't set into the material, blot the ink stain with a cloth or paper towel before using any cleaning method. Blotting the stain will absorb the excess ink from the dress so that the stain is easier to remove. Place the stained silk over a paper towel. Though it is not often used as a cleaning substance, hairspray is one of the most effective ways to remove ink from a variety of materials, including silk. Before you use the hairspray to clean the ink stain, first place the stained portion of the silk dress over a paper towel or a towel. The paper towel or cloth will absorb the ink that may bleed through the dress as you try to remove it. You may need to put the paper towel or cloth inside the dress directly against the stained section so that the ink doesn't bleed to the back of the dress. Spray the stain liberally with hairspray. After you lay the stained portion of the dress over the paper towel, shake the can of hairspray, then aim it at the ink stain. Spray the hairspray on the stain until it is completely saturated. Use an alcohol-based hairspray as opposed to an alcohol-free hairspray. Don't let the hairspray dry. Dab the stain with a clean cloth. Once you have wet the stain with the hairspray, immediately dab at the ink stain using a clean cloth with gentle tapping motions. You should see the ink lifting from the dress and transferring to the cloth. Keep dabbing until the stain is completely removed or until the dabbing isn't having any effect. Dab with patting motions instead of rubbing. Rubbing the stain can cause it to ingrain into the fabric, making it even harder to remove. Repeat spraying and dabbing until the stain has been removed. If the first round of spraying the stain with hairspray and dabbing didn't remove the ink stain, spray the stain again until the stain is soaked. Then dab the stain with a clean section of the towel to lift up more of the ink. Repeat the process of reapplying hairspray and dabbing with a cloth or paper towel until you don't see any more ink lifting. If you did remove the stain, wash your silk dress as usual to remove any leftover hairspray. If using hairspray on the stain didn't fully remove it, try another method of removing the stain. Place the stained section over a clean cloth. If cleaning the ink stain with hairspray wasn't fully effective, you may need to use rubbing alcohol, which is a more powerful cleaning solution. To begin, place the stained portion of the dress over a cloth or paper towel, just as you did before you sprayed with dress with hairspray. Apply rubbing alcohol to a clean cloth. After you lay out your silk garment, pour about 2 teaspoons (9.85 ml) of rubbing alcohol (isopropyl alcohol) to a clean cloth. Use a clear rubbing alcohol as opposed to wintergreen alcohol, since the green pigment of wintergreen alcohol can stain your silk dress further. Dab the stain with the soaked cloth. Once you add the rubbing alcohol to the clean cloth, dab at the stain with gentle tapping motions just as you did when using the hairspray. Continue patting until you don't see any more of the ink lifting from the stained portion of the dress. Blow the stained area with a hairdryer. Rubbing alcohol can sometimes leave a faint ring-like stain where it is applied. However, if you use a hairdryer to blow hot air on the stain directly after dabbing with the rubbing alcohol, you won't have to worry about the ring- like stain. Use the hairdryer to blow on the stained area until it is dry. Make sure to use the hairdryer directly after dabbing so that the rubbing alcohol doesn't have time to dry. Repeat steps 2-4 until the stain is removed. If dabbing with rubbing alcohol didn't work to fully remove the stain, repeat the process of dabbing the stain with rubbing alcohol and drying with hairspray until the stain is removed or you aren't making any more progress in lifting the stain. If you were successful in removing the stain, launder your garment as usual. If you didn't fully remove the stain, try another method to get it out. Make a solution of dishwashing soap and water. If dabbing at the stain with hairspray and rubbing alcohol didn't work, you may need to soak your silk dress in a solution of dishwashing soap and water to get the rest of the stain out. In a large basin or container, mix 3 parts dishwashing solution with one part water. Use a clear dishwashing soap as opposed to a colored soap. Soak the stained dress for 15 minutes. Place the ink-stained dress in the basin of dish detergent solution, making sure that the stained section is fully submerged in the liquid. Soak the dress for 15 minutes to target the stain. Rinse the fabric in hot water. After you soak the dress for 15 minutes, take the dress out of the dishwashing solution and run hot water over it until the solution seems to be washed out and the water is no longer sudsy. Then launder the silk dress as usual.	Blot the stain with paper towel. Place the stained silk over a paper towel. Spray the stain liberally with hairspray. Dab the stain with a clean cloth. Repeat spraying and dabbing until the stain has been removed. Place the stained section over a clean cloth. Apply rubbing alcohol to a clean cloth. Dab the stain with the soaked cloth. Blow the stained area with a hairdryer. Repeat steps 2-4 until the stain is removed. Make a solution of dishwashing soap and water. Soak the stained dress for 15 minutes. Rinse the fabric in hot water.
https://www.wikihow.com/Make-Graduation-Leis	How to Make Graduation Leis	To make a graduation leis out of candy, start by cutting a 4-foot long piece of cellophane that's about 6 inches wide. Place a small candy bar length-wise on top of the cellophane. Take the long, top edge of the cellophane and roll it around the candy, forming a tube. Then, secure the ends of the candy bar with a piece of tape or ribbon. If you like, you can tie ribbons right above the end of the candy bar, making sure they match your school's colors. Tuck another candy bar into the tube, wrap it, and tie it. Repeat this process until you are close to the end of your cellophane. Trim any excess cellophane, then tie the ends together in a double-knot.	Fold a dollar bill into a fan. Starting from one of the narrow ends, fold your bill like a fan or accordion using ½-inch (1.27-centimeter) folds. Do this for all of the bills that you have. You will need about 30 to 35 bills. Make some more fans using colored paper, if desired. Cut some colored paper down to the same size as your bills, about 2½ by 6 inches (6.35 by 15.24 centimeters) first. Then, fold them into fans starting from the narrow edge. You will need about 30 to 35 pieces as well. Add school spirit by using one or both of your school's colors. Cardstock or colored printer paper will give you a nicer look, but you can use construction paper if you have nothing else. Tape the edges of your fan together. Fold your fan in half, widthwise. Tape the two side edges together. When you are done, you should have a half-circle, fan shape. Do this for all of the folded bills and colored pieces of paper. Set them aside when you are done. Cut a 4-foot (1.2-meter) long piece of ribbon. This will make the base of the lei. The ribbon can be any color you want, but something that matches one of the school's colors would be ideal. Seal the ends of the ribbon with a flame. This will keep it from fraying. Start taping the folded fans to the ribbon. Place the flat side of your first fan against the ribbon. Fold the two ends together over the ribbon, sandwiching it in between. You should now have something that looks like a disk. Tape the two ends of the paper together to secure the disk. Start from the center of the ribbon and work your way outward. Continue taping the folded fans to the ribbon. Alternate between money and paper. You can do money-paper-money, or money-money-paper. Stop when you have about 6 inches (15.24 centimeters) of ribbon left on each side. Tie the ends of the ribbon together. If you have enough ribbon left over, you can tie the ends into a bow. This is not completely necessary, but it will give the lei a nicer touch. Cut some cellophane about 6 inches (15.24 centimeters) wide. You can use any color you want, even clear. You could also use one of the school's colors to get into the school spirit. Place a small candy bar on top of the cellophane. Set the cellophane down on a flat surface. Place a small candy bar on top of it, about 3 inches (7.62 centimeters) from one of the narrow ends. Make sure that both are oriented horizontally. It's best if you use wrapped candies so that they don't melt. If the candies are very small, you could fit 3 to 4. Wrap the cellophane around the candy bar. Starting from the long, top edge, roll the cellophane around the candy, forming a tube. If you need to, secure the cellophane with a piece of tape first. Tie a piece of curling ribbon to either side of the candy. Cut two 6 to 8-inch (15.24 to 20.32-centimeter) long pieces of curling ribbon in one of the school's colors. Tie each ribbon to either side of the candy bar. You can tie the ribbon into a bow or a simple double-knot. If you use a double-knot, consider curing the ribbon with scissors. Use one of the school's colors for the ribbon, if possible. Tuck another candy bar into the tube. You will need to tuck, wrap, and adjust the cellophane around the candy bar. Tie another piece of ribbon right above the candy bar. Continue adding candies until you are close to the end of the cellophane. Tie a piece of curling ribbon around the cellophane around each candy that you add. Consider alternating the ribbon colors for a more interesting lei. Be sure to match them to the school's colors! Make the lei longer, if necessary. The standard 3-foot (0.91-yard) long piece of cellophane may not be long enough to make a lei. If yours is too short, cut another strip of cellophane, and tape it to the end of your lei. Continue adding candies and ribbons until the cellophane is filled. Something around 4 feet (1.2 meters) would be ideal, so trim off any excess. Tie the ends together. When you are close to the end of the lei, tie a piece of ribbon around the cellophane, just above the last candy bar. Bring both ends of the lei together, and tie them into a secure, double-knot. For an added touch, tie a piece of ribbon around the knot in a bow.	Fold a dollar bill into a fan. Make some more fans using colored paper, if desired. Tape the edges of your fan together. Cut a 4-foot (1.2-meter) long piece of ribbon. Start taping the folded fans to the ribbon. Continue taping the folded fans to the ribbon. Tie the ends of the ribbon together. Cut some cellophane about 6 inches (15.24 centimeters) wide. Place a small candy bar on top of the cellophane. Wrap the cellophane around the candy bar. Tie a piece of curling ribbon to either side of the candy. Tuck another candy bar into the tube. Continue adding candies until you are close to the end of the cellophane. Make the lei longer, if necessary. Tie the ends together.
https://www.wikihow.com/Clean-Headlights	How to Clean Headlights	If your headlights are looking hazy or fogged over, you can clean them using a few simple supplies to get them looking new again. First, wash your headlights with soapy water and let them dry. Then, apply painter's tape around the perimeter of each headlight so you don't accidentally damage the surrounding paint. For a quick fix, apply toothpaste to a damp cloth and buff the toothpaste into each headlight for about 5 minutes. Toothpaste is mildly abrasive, and it can help remove any buildup on your headlights. Rinse off each headlight with water and let them air dry. You can also try using baking soda and vinegar. Mix 2 parts white vinegar with 1 part baking soda, and rub the mixture into each headlight with a cloth for a few minutes. Rinse your headlights with water and repeat if needed. For really hazy headlights, try wet sanding them. First, wet the headlights and some 1000-grit sandpaper with water. Then, sand each headlight using horizontal strokes for 5 to 10 minutes, keeping the sandpaper wet at all times. Repeat with 2000-grit and then 3000-grit sandpaper, changing the direction you sand in each time. Finally, polish and wax your headlights to really make them shine.	Inspect the headlights to see what approach makes most sense. If you've noticed that your headlights are hazier or not as crisp as they once were, examine them in daylight, both on and off. It's important to figure out how bad the damage is to know which cleaning methods will be the most effective, whether you need to get the headlights examined professionally, or whether the headlights might need replaced. Look for major abrasions and scratches that might be signs of more serious issues. Wash the headlights with regular car soap. Regular road grit and grime can make your headlights look dirty and hazy to a degree that can make a more accurate diagnosis difficult. Before you start looking for specific problems, just give your car a wash with regular warm water and car wash soap. Wipe down the headlights and let them dry thoroughly. Examine them clean to look for specific issues. Look for hazing. Haziness will occur when all of the hard coat has worn off the headlights and the soft polycarbonate is exposed, beginning to absorb scratches that creates hazing. The lens will soon be covered in a rough dark yellow crusted surface. If this seems to be the problem, doing a cheap quick clean will be an effective way of slowing the degeneration of the headlights, but a more comprehensive clean may be called for. Look for yellowing. This occurs when all of the hard coat is beginning to thin out and lose adhesion to the polycarbonate lens. The UV wavelength spectrum creates a new repeating unit in the carbonic chain which absorbs blue light, and results in a yellowish appearance. If you notice yellowish coloring on the headlights, you need to opt for a more comprehensive clean, using Rain-X or some polishing compound to clean them up and correct the damage. A thin layer of transmission fluid can temporarily clear them up as well. Look for peeling and cracks. When the hard coat begins to deteriorate, you will notice spotting in certain areas such as the upper region or the corners. The hard coat can appear to flake off or peeling off. Eventually, you'll see cracks deep into the lens, which means the headlights will need to be resurfaced by a professional. If this is the case, you might need to replace your headlights or have them resurfaced, which might end up costing more. In the meantime, clean them up as best you can using a quick method and start pricing new headlights. Have glass headlights examined by the pros. Most headlights are plastic and will exhibit the symptoms described above. Glass headlights, as are found on classic cars and older models, are more complicated and are best examined by professional body technicians. If your glass headlights are wearing out, take them in and have them checked. Get a few grades of wet/dry sandpaper. To start with, you're going to buff out the headlights, using an increasingly-fine series of wet/dry sandpaper. 3M is usually the best brand for the job, and you typically want to have at least one coarser grade (1500 or so) and a finer grade to finish abrading the headlight (around 2000). If you want to start with coarser sandpaper, that's up to you. Tape off the headlights. Any time you're using sandpaper around the car, you want to make sure you don't get too vigorous and scratch the paint. For this reason, it's usually a good idea to use some painter's tape around the edge, where the lights meet the painted part of the car, to avoid scratching up the paint. This isn't necessary, but it's worth taking the extra few minutes to protect your paint job. Before you get started sanding, it's usually a good idea to wipe down the headlights once more, using clean paper towels and a bit of rubbing alcohol. This should dry quickly and you'll be ready to go. Wet the sandpaper and start sanding. Using a water spray bottle or a small bucket, wet sand the headlights thoroughly with your coarser grit sandpaper. Use even pressure and sand away at the headlight, until you have an even, dull finish. If the factory coating begins to come off, you will notice a hazy "line" begin to appear and change shape as it is sanded off. It is generally best to sand the coating completely off. Switch to the finer grade of sandpaper. After going over the headlights with your coarse paper, switch to a sandpaper with a higher grit-count and repeat the process until the finish changes from dull to kind of "satiny." On headlights with an interior texture where you cannot necessarily see the bulb, you can usually stop at 1500 grit paper. The headlights will look hazy, but even and not yellow. Choose a buffing compound. Once you've sanded down the headlights and worked out the hazing, it's time to switch to a buffing compound of some kind. Lots of different choices are available, including McGuire's, M105, and 3M compound. Visit the auto parts store for a variety of options. Aluminum polishing compounds are the best bet to get the headlights into good shape. Non-abrasive bathroom acrylic tub and sink cleaner is designed for plastics, works well and may already be under your sink. If you're looking for a cheap option, plain blue toothpaste is a common substitute. Use plain blue toothpaste, not anything with peroxide, whitening agent, or other additives. Add buffing compound to a clean microfiber cloth. Take a clean towel, apply a quarter-sized glob of buffing compound, a pick a small area of the headlight to focus on, say 4 x 4 inches (10 x 10 centimeters). Work it in a circular motion, polishing repeatedly and uniformly in your little square. It should take less than five minutes or so for the section to start looking clearer. Once you've buffed a square, move on to the next one. If you want to use a hand drill with a buffing kit, you can apply buffing compound directly to a foam pad that will spin on the drill, then buff the headlights at a low RPM. Using gentle pressure, slowly ease the RPMs up, moving the pad uniformly around the headlight. Go slowly, about an inch a second. This will go much faster than polishing by hand. Continue buffing until your headlights look clear. It'll take some elbow grease, because you may want to add as many as three coats of buffing compound to get your headlights like you want them. Go until you're satisfied with the clarity and the sharpness of the light. You can test your headlights by shining them against the wall of the garage, or some other flat surface. Consider having plastic adhesion added. If you want to really seal your headlights and keep them in good shape, you might consider having a local auto body shop mask and spray the headlights with a plastic adhesion promoter, like Bulldog. That plus a few coats of automotive clear-coat helps to extend the life of headlights considerably, and should only cost between $20-50, depending on the shop. A less expensive option is acrylic floor wax. Apply a coat and let dry. Multiple coats can be applied for a more durable finish and it can be re-applied as necessary.	Inspect the headlights to see what approach makes most sense. Wash the headlights with regular car soap. Look for hazing. Look for yellowing. Look for peeling and cracks. Have glass headlights examined by the pros. Get a few grades of wet/dry sandpaper. Tape off the headlights. Wet the sandpaper and start sanding. Switch to the finer grade of sandpaper. Choose a buffing compound. Add buffing compound to a clean microfiber cloth. Continue buffing until your headlights look clear. Consider having plastic adhesion added.
https://www.wikihow.com/Visit-the-White-House	How to Visit the White House	To visit the white house as a United States Citizen, fill out the online form on your congressmember's website to request a public, self-guided tour. You'll need to submit your request up to 3 months ahead of time, and then you will receive a confirmation email 2 weeks before the date of your tour. If you're not a U.S. citizen, call your country's embassy in Washington, D.C. to have your tour arranged through the State Department.	Request a public tour through your House representative. If you're a U.S. citizen, you can request to take a public, self-guided tour of the White House through your representative in the House. These tours are free and will take you through the East Wing and White House Residence. To find who your local congressmember is, go to https://www.house.gov/representatives/find-your-representative. Fill out the online request form on your congressmember’s website. Find your congressmember's website online by googling or looking on the House of Representatives' website. Look for their “Services” or “Visiting DC” page, or search for “White House tours” on their website. Fill out the request form there to start your tour booking process. You'll be asked to give the dates that you're available for the tour, the number of people, and your contact information. Choose a non-holiday date, on Tuesday through Saturday. The White House is only open for public tours on certain days and hours, so plan your visit accordingly! It's closed on federal holidays as well. All tours are subject to last minute cancellation, so try to plan an alternate activity on the same day, just in case. Submit your request up to 3 months ahead of time. You can submit your tour request up to 3 months ahead of time and as late as 3 weeks before, but you should try to submit as soon as possible. Spots fill up fast, especially during busy times like summer and winter breaks. Look for a confirmation email from the White House 2 weeks before your requested date. Once you've submitted your request, you'll have to wait for a while before hearing back. The White House won't let you know that you've received a tour until about 2 weeks beforehand, due to security reasons. Try to be patient in the meantime! Plan the rest of your trip to the capital to keep yourself busy. You might want to see other sights, like the Washington Monument, the Lincoln Memorial, or Capitol Hill. Contact your embassy to schedule a tour if you’re not a US citizen. If you're a foreign visitor wanting to tour the White House, call your country's embassy in Washington, D.C. Your tour will be arranged through the Protocol Desk at the State Department. Your embassy officials will let you know what steps you'll take to request a tour. You can find your embassy's contact information at https://www.embassy.org/embassies/. Call the Visitors Office information line if you have any questions. If you need to make last minute changes or have any questions about scheduling, the tour experience, or anything else, call the White House Visitors Center. Their hotline is available 24 hours a day. Call the Visitors Office at 202-456-7041. Take the Garden Tour for a free stroll of the White House grounds in spring or fall. White House Garden Tours are offered 2 weekends per year—once in the spring and once in fall. Instead of reserving your tickets months in advance, like you would with a regular White House tour, you'll simply pick up tickets on the day of the event. The Garden Tours are public and free of charge as well. You won't be able to go inside the White House, but you will be able to walk around the gardens, grounds, and lawns. Check the White House website in spring for the public tour dates. The Garden Tour dates and times are announced every year in the spring. They'll be announced on the White House website as well as in the news and on social media, so keep an eye out! The tours are typically held in April and October. Pick up free tickets at the National Park Service tent near the White House. All attendees, including children, will need a ticket to get in. You can pick them up from a National Park Service tent on the days of the Garden tours. Get there early, since lines are usually very long and tickets are first come, first serve. Make sure your whole group goes with you as well—you can only pick up one ticket per person. Keep an eye out for ticketing time announcements, which will be decided a few weeks before each tour. The ticket tents typically open in the morning. Avoid bringing prohibited items like backpacks, food, and tablets. Just like with regular White House tours, there are a number of items that won't be allowed on the grounds during the Garden Tours. These items include: Suitcases and oversized backpacks Tablets Food and beverages Selfie sticks Balloons Weapons and toy weapons Fireworks Wear comfortable, weather-appropriate clothes. There isn't an official dress code for visiting the White House, but you should wear something appropriate and comfortable for walking and for the weather. There is no place to store items while you're in the White House, so if you wear a heavy coat, make sure you're OK to carry it around during the tour. Avoid wearing clothes with anti-U.S. slogans. Use public transportation to get to the White House. There are no visitors' parking lots around the White House, so it's recommended to take public transportation to get to your tour. Check the instructions given to you by the White House for the best time to arrive. The Metro is the easiest option if you're not staying in walking distance, and the closest stations are: Federal Triangle, on the blue and orange lines Metro Center on the blue, orange, and red lines McPherson Square, on the blue and orange lines Use the bathroom at the visitor’s center before you go inside. Public restrooms aren't available once you're inside the White House. You can stop by the Ellipse Visitor Pavilion, located in the park area south of the White House, for the nearest bathrooms, or go in a nearby museum. Bring government-issued ID or passport. All guests who are 18 or older are required to show an up-to-date, government-issued ID card. If you're not a U.S. citizen, you'll need to bring your passport. U.S. citizens have the option of bringing either a valid ID like a driver's license or military ID card, or a U.S. passport. The information on your ID must exactly match the name, date of birth, and address you gave the White House when booking the tour. Photocopies and expired IDs won't be accepted. Avoid bringing prohibited items, like cameras, bags, and food. For security reasons, the White House has a strict list of items that won't be allowed inside the building. There are no storage options at the White House, so you won't be allowed to enter if you bring a prohibited item. If you can't leave the item at home, you can rent a locker at a nearby museum or ask if you can store it with your congressmember's office. Follow all rules and instructions when you’re inside the White House. The White House will contact you with other rules and instructions, and give further guidance once you arrive for your tour. Make sure to follow all instructions carefully. Security is extremely tight in the White House, and you may face consequences or be asked to leave if you break the rules.	Request a public tour through your House representative. Fill out the online request form on your congressmember’s website. Choose a non-holiday date, on Tuesday through Saturday. Submit your request up to 3 months ahead of time. Look for a confirmation email from the White House 2 weeks before your requested date. Contact your embassy to schedule a tour if you’re not a US citizen. Call the Visitors Office information line if you have any questions. Take the Garden Tour for a free stroll of the White House grounds in spring or fall. Check the White House website in spring for the public tour dates. Pick up free tickets at the National Park Service tent near the White House. Avoid bringing prohibited items like backpacks, food, and tablets. Wear comfortable, weather-appropriate clothes. Use public transportation to get to the White House. Use the bathroom at the visitor’s center before you go inside. Bring government-issued ID or passport. Avoid bringing prohibited items, like cameras, bags, and food. Follow all rules and instructions when you’re inside the White House.
https://www.wikihow.com/Remove-Rust-from-a-Bike	How to Remove Rust from a Bike	To remove some superficial rust from a bike, start by mixing equal parts baking soda and water until it becomes a thick paste. Dab the paste on a brush or sponge and apply it directly to the rust. After 15 minutes, use a scrub pad to break down the rust. Then, allow the baking soda to sit for another 10-15 minutes before wiping it off with a dry microfiber cloth. For stubborn rust, pour white vinegar in a spray bottle and spritz the rust on your bike. After 10-15 minutes, rinse the vinegar off your bike with water and dry.	Mix baking soda and water in a bowl. Combine a 50/50 mixture of baking soda and water in a bowl and mix until it becomes a thick paste. You will need enough of the paste to completely cover the rust, so keep the bowl, baking soda, and water nearby in case you need to make more. Baking soda is generally best at minor rust removal. Severe rusting may respond better to other methods. Add a squirt of lemon juice to the paste for strengthened removal properties. Put the paste directly on the rust for about 15 minutes. Dab the paste on a brush or sponge and apply it to the rusty bike. Do not scrub or remove the paste immediately: it will need time to set and break down the rust. Let the paste sit for about 10 to 15 minutes. The baking soda paste should be thick enough to evenly coat the rust patch without dripping off of the bike. Scrub the baking soda with a scrub pad. Using a plastic scrubber or steel wool, scrub the baking soda solution. As you scrub, you should notice the rust breaking down and detaching from the bike. If you do not notice this, add more of the baking soda paste to the bike and scrub with more force. Use a toothbrush as an alternative if no scrub pads are available. Wait about 10 minutes before wiping off the baking soda. After you are finished scrubbing, leave the baking soda on for about 10-15 minutes to reach stubborn rust. Then, wipe off the paste with a dry microfiber cloth. Make sure the bicycle is completely dry to prevent further rusting. Store the bike in a cool, dry place to keep the rust from returning. If there is still some rust left over, repeat the same process again or try another method. Pour white vinegar into a spray bottle. White vinegar is best at rust removal because it is more acidic than other varieties. Although you can dab the vinegar onto the bike rust directly, spray bottles are ideal to ensure an even coating of the liquid. Add a small spoonful of baking soda to the mixture for a more corrosive solution. Spritz or coat the rust on your bike in vinegar. If you put the vinegar in a spray bottle, spray it evenly around the entire rust patch. Apply the vinegar with a sponge or ball of tinfoil if you decide to directly coat it. Tinfoil is especially effective because it can also function as a scrub brush while you apply the vinegar. If desired, you may soak removable bike parts in a vinegar solution as an alternative. Rinse the vinegar off of your bike after 10-15 minutes. Vinegar can continue corroding your bike metal after removing the rust. To prevent this from happening, use a hose to wash the bike down after the rust has dissolved. If vinegar does not remove the rust, you may need to use a chemical cleaner. Dry the bike off before storing it again. Leaving moisture on the bike can cause rust to return. Rub your bike down with a cloth soaked in denatured alcohol to remove excess moisture. Store your bike in a cool, dry place to prevent future rusting. Use chemical rust remover if no other method works. In some cases, household items might not be strong enough to remove rust. Try baking soda and vinegar first, but if neither work, purchase a rust remover from your local hardware store or bike shop. Do not mix chemical removers with baking soda, vinegar, citric acid, or other cleaners. Some mixtures can be deadly. Put on protective gloves and glasses before handling rust remover. Chemical removers are more potent to use than other methods and can harm your eyes or skin. Read the instruction label carefully before using to make sure you're using it safely. If the cleaner touches your eyes or skin, rinse it off thoroughly and contact poison control for further instructions. Avoid using chemical cleaners in confined spaces. Open a window or door for ventilation, and exit the room immediately if you feel dizzy and/or lightheaded. Brush the chemical cleaner on as directed. How long you leave the cleaner on will depend on the chemical. Suggested times can range from 30 minutes to overnight. Read the directions for specific instructions and follow them carefully for the best results. If you need a cleaner that will remove rust quickly, read the label instructions while you're at the store and choose one with a quick setting time. Remove the cleaner after the suggested time has passed. Because chemical cleaners are corrosive, wipe it away completely with a cheap cloth after it has finished removing the rust. Store remaining cleaners wherever you keep other chemicals in case you need to remove more rust later on. Throw the cloth away after use to prevent contaminating other fabrics.	Mix baking soda and water in a bowl. Put the paste directly on the rust for about 15 minutes. Scrub the baking soda with a scrub pad. Wait about 10 minutes before wiping off the baking soda. Pour white vinegar into a spray bottle. Spritz or coat the rust on your bike in vinegar. Rinse the vinegar off of your bike after 10-15 minutes. Dry the bike off before storing it again. Use chemical rust remover if no other method works. Put on protective gloves and glasses before handling rust remover. Brush the chemical cleaner on as directed. Remove the cleaner after the suggested time has passed.
https://www.wikihow.com/Play-American-Football	How to Play American Football	To play American football, divide players into 2 teams of 11 people each, with a quarterback for each team who will pass the ball to the other players at the start of each play. Each team gets 4 tries to move the ball at least 10 yards, otherwise the opposite team gets the ball back. The team scores 6 points if a player crosses into the end zone with the ball, with an opportunity for an extra point by kicking the ball through the uprights at the end of the field. A team can score 3 points for kicking the ball through the uprights any other time.	Know the main point of the game. The goal of American football is to score points by carrying the ball from a starting point on a 120-yard long and 53.3-yard wide field into a specially marked 10-yard-deep area at either end of the field called an end zone. Each team uses the end zone in front of them to score while trying to prevent the opposing team from reaching the end zone behind them. Each end zone has a Y-shaped structure called the field goal which is positioned on the end line. The field goals are used to score points with special kicks. The end zone that a team is defending is usually referred to as “their” end zone. Thus, a team with 70 yards (64.0 m) to go before it can score a touchdown is 30 yards (27.4 m) from its end zone. Teams trade possession of the ball according to strict rules. Whichever team is in possession of the ball is known as the “offense;” the other team is called the “defense.” Learn the time divisions. Football is divided into four quarters of 15 minutes each, with a break between the second and third periods called “halftime” that is normally 12 minutes long. While the clock is active, the game is divided into even shorter segments called “plays" or "downs." A play begins when the ball is moved from the ground into the hands of the players, and ends when either the ball hits the ground, or the person holding the ball is tackled and his knee or elbow touches the ground. When a play is over, an official called a referee, places the ball on the yard marker which corresponds to his or her judgment of the place where the forward progress of the player with the ball was stopped. Each team has 4 downs and within those downs, they have to make ten yards from the line of scrimmage (the starting point). If the team fails to do so within the 4 downs, the offensive team has to hand over the ball to the opposing team. If the offense succeeds in taking the ball 10 yards in the 4 downs they get another 4 downs to move the ball 10 yards. The teams have 30 seconds to get into formation and begin the next play. Play time can stop for a few different reasons: If a player runs out of bounds, a penalty is called, a flag is thrown, or a pass is thrown but not caught by anybody (an incomplete pass), the clock will stop while referees sort everything out. Penalties are indicated by referees, who throw yellow flags onto the field when they see a violation. This lets everyone on the field know that a penalty has been called. Penalties normally result in the offending team losing between 5 - 15 yards of field position. There are many penalties, but some of the most common are “offside” (someone was on the wrong side of the line of scrimmage when the ball was snapped), “holding” (a player grabbed another player with his hands, and either player doesn't have the ball, instead of blocking him properly), "false start" (When a player moves before the ball is snapped), "Unsportsmanlike conduct" (When a player does something that doesn't show good sportsmanship, and “clipping” (someone contacted an opposing player other than the ball carrier from behind and below the waist). Learn the flow of the game. American football is made up of two basic structural elements that guide play. These are the kickoff and the downs system. The opening kickoff - At the very beginning of the game, the head referee flips a coin and the home team captain calls out which side of the coin will be face up. If correct, that captain may choose to kick off or to receive the opening kickoff or allow the visiting team captain to make that choice. Once the kicking and receiving teams are decided, the team captain who lost the coin toss gets to decide which goal his or her team will defend during the first half. This initial play is called the kickoff, and typically involves a long kick down field from one team to the other, with the team that kicked the ball rushing towards the team receiving the ball in order to prevent them from running the ball a long ways back towards the kicking team's end zone. After halftime, there is a second kickoff by whichever team did not perform the opening kickoff. Throughout the second half, the end zones each team defends is the one opposite the end zone that team defended in the first half. Downs - The word “down” is synonymous with the word “chance” or "plays" in American football. The offense is allowed four downs to move the ball at least 10 yards (9.1 m) towards the end zone. Each play ends in a new down. If the goal of 10 yards (9.1 m) from the first down is achieved before the fourth down is over, the count resets to the first down, commonly noted as “1st and 10” to indicate that the standard 10 yards (9.1 m) are once again required to reset to the first down. Otherwise, the downs count from one to four. If four downs pass without resetting to the first down, control of the ball passes to the other team. This means that a team that moves the ball 10 or more yards on each play will never be on the second down. Every time the ball is moved 10 yards (9.1 m) or more in the proper direction, the next play is a first down with 10 yards (9.1 m) to go. The distance required to reset to the first down is cumulative, so running 4 yards (3.7 m) on the first down, 3 yards (2.7 m) on the second, and 3 yards (2.7 m) on the third is enough for the next play to be a first down again. If a play ends with the ball behind the line of scrimmage, the difference in yards is added to the total number of yards required for a first down. For example, if the quarterback is tackled 7 yards (6.4 m) behind the line with the ball in his hands, the next play will be noted as “2nd and 17,” meaning that 17 yards (15.5 m) must be covered in the next three plays to reset to a first down. Instead of playing the fourth down, the offense can choose to punt the ball, which is a long kick that transfers control of the ball to the other team, but is likely to force them to start farther up the field than they would otherwise have been. Learn about the composition of a team. Each team is allowed to have eleven players on the field at once. Different team members hold different positions and have different duties on the field. Most competitive teams are actually composed of three separate teams of players, each of which is rotated onto the field to perform one type of task. The offensive team includes the following players: The quarterback, who throws a pass to a running back, fullback, wide receiver, or tight end, or hands the ball to a runner. The offensive line, composed of the center, two guards, and two tackles, who collectively defend the other players from the defense while the ball is being handed off or passed. The center is directly in front of the quarterback and "snaps" (tosses the ball backwards) the ball to him. The guards are on either of the center's shoulders, and the tackles line up on the guard's shoulders Wide receivers, who run over the line of scrimmage and catch the ball if a pass is being thrown. The running back, who takes the ball from the quarterback and runs it towards the end zone. Tight ends, who help defend the outside edges of the line and can also catch the ball in case of a pass. The defensive team comprises the following players: Linebackers, who defend against passing plays and also rush through the line and blitz the quarterback. The defensive line, who keep the pressure on the offensive line. They can also blitz the quarterback. Cornerbacks and safeties, who defend players trying to receive a pass or trying to run the ball down the field past the defensive line. They can also blitz the quarterback. The third team is the special team used any time the ball will be kicked. Their job is to allow the person kicking the ball to make a clean kick without being harassed by the other team. Keep track of your score. The goal of the game is to score more points than the opposing team. In the case of a tie, an additional 15 minute overtime period is usually played. Scoring is as follows: A touchdown is when the football is successfully carried into the proper end zone by a player (or caught by a player standing in the proper end zone), is worth 6 points. An extra point , wherein a player kicks the football between the goal posts after his team has scored a touchdown, is worth 1 point. When the touchdown play is followed by a passing or running play into the end zone instead of a kick, the play is called a two point conversion , and is worth 2 points. A field goal , is when or where a player kicks the football between the goal posts without having scored a touchdown on the previous play, is worth 3 points. Field goals are commonly seen as last-ditch tactics at the end of close games. A safety , wherein a player is so far down the field that he is in his own end zone and is subsequently tackled while holding the ball, is worth 2 points. Fight your way forward with running plays. Generally the most common type of play seen in football is the running play. Running plays tend to yield less yardage per play than passing plays but are much less likely to accidentally transfer control of the ball to the other team. They have the added advantage of getting the football out of the quarterback's hands quickly before an aggressive defense can reach his position and cost the team extra yards. If the ball is dropped during a running play, it is called a fumble. A fumbled ball can be picked up by either the other team, or the team that fumbled it to gain or regain control of it. The quarterback normally hands the ball off to a teammate (typically a running back) to execute a running play, but he can also choose to run the ball himself. Being able to think quickly and assess the situation as it changes is a vital skill for a quarterback to help him decide when to run the ball on his own. Running plays have the benefit of being difficult to see in detail from behind the defensive line. Very often, the offense will try to trick the defense by seeming to hand the ball off to two or even three different runners. When the ruse works, the one runner who actually has the ball can sometimes break past the defense before they know what has happened and run all the way down the field for an easy touchdown. Pierce the defense with passing plays. Slightly less common than the running play, the passing play is a great way to make up lost yards quickly... if the pass is completed. Short passing plays are often used in combination with running plays as well, to keep the defense on its toes. The great advantage of a passing play is its ability to completely circumvent a tough ground defense. Incomplete passes (wherein nobody catches the ball after it is thrown) stop the clock and end the play. The quarterback usually needs more time to throw a pass than is required for a running play, so the offensive line must be exceptionally unyielding while the quarterback scans the field for an open receiver in order to prevent him from being sacked (tackled behind the line of scrimmage while still holding the ball). Once an opening is spotted, the quarterback has to estimate how far to throw the ball so that the receiver will be able to catch it while in motion. If a pass is caught by the defense, it is called an interception. A fumble is when the ball comes loose from the offenses hands and the defense gains control of the ball (and becomes the offense). Just as importantly, the play is not over once the ball has been intercepted. The defending player who made the interception can (and often does) turn right around and run the ball back down the field for an exciting touchdown. Combine passing and running plays. Your offensive team should plan to use a mixture of both running and passing plays in order to keep the defense guessing. Practice a few different formations with your team and get good at running them. The quarterback especially should practice throwing the ball accurately, as well as learning to make convincing fake handoffs to the running backs. As a rule of thumb, it's safer to start out with a couple of running plays until your team gets a feel for how the defense responds. A defensive team that's great at intercepting the ball might not have much going for it on the ground, or vice versa. Adjust your mix accordingly. If you're playing defense, watch player positions carefully and try to anticipate whether the play will be a running play, a short pass, or a long pass so that you can defend against it as effectively as possible. And remember, nothing stops a play of any kind as quickly as sacking the quarterback, so if you see an opening, go for it. Practice a lot. By far the best way to get better at playing football is to practice regularly. The game uses a special skill set that is not seen very many other places in life, so consistent work is required to improve the way you play. Practice with your team if at all possible. Practice holding the ball, catching the ball, and running with it; practice watching the other players so that you can change what you are doing based on what is happening elsewhere on the field. Strength and endurance training is very important, too. Don't forget to practice strategy and special plays, like field goals, together so that you can go out onto the field and work as an intelligent whole when game day arrives. Study strategy. This guide only lists the most basic elements of play. Team formations and strategies go far beyond the information presented here. Read up on some of them and think about how your team can use them to gain an advantage on the field. Quarterback. The offense's backbone. The quarterback is the player that receives the start of play snap. The player often gets to chose whether he should hand it off to one of the running backs, run the play himself, or pass it to one of his teammates. Running backs. The running back is in charge of running the football or helping to block for the quarterback during a pass play. A running back must have quick feet and fast legs to be able to dodge any defenders. Wide receivers. A player who uses his speed and quickness to elude defenders and catch the football. Teams use as many as two to four wide receivers on every play.	Know the main point of the game. Learn the time divisions. Learn the flow of the game. Learn about the composition of a team. Keep track of your score. Fight your way forward with running plays. Pierce the defense with passing plays. Combine passing and running plays. Practice a lot. Study strategy. Quarterback. Running backs. Wide receivers.