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https://www.wikihow.com/Wake-a-Tortoise-from-Hibernation	How to Wake a Tortoise from Hibernation	If your tortoise has been hibernating for the winter, you should wake it up when the outdoor temperature increases above 50 degrees Fahrenheit, or when it has been 4 months since it began its hibernation. To wake your tortoise, bring its hibernaculum indoors and place it next to a space heater for a few hours. While the hibernaculum is warming up, prepare a heated area in your tortoise's enclosure for your tortoise to recover. Use a heat lamp or a tortoise table to maintain a constant temperature of at least 86 degrees Fahrenheit, as well as a an artificial UVB light to simulate natural sunlight. When your tortoise wakes up, give it plenty of water to rehydrate, and give it sugar water or Reptoboost to help it regain energy faster.	Determine when to wake your tortoise. There are certain conditions that indicate you need to wake up your tortoise. If you use the natural seasonal progression to determine when to let your tortoise hibernate, you should wake him up when the temperature increases above 50 degrees Fahrenheit (10 degrees Celsius) in the area of his hibernaculum, which is his home during hibernation. This temperature stimulates his metabolism, which is when it is best for him to wake up. If you notice urine in his hibernaculum, you should also go ahead and fully wake him up. This is an indication that he is partially awake, which means he should fully wake up to avoid sickness. If it has been four months since your tortoise went into hibernation, he should also be woken up. Increase the temperature. The first thing you need to do to start waking him up is move his hibernaculum from where you've kept it protected and stored while he was hibernating. This is typically outside, so you can bring it indoors. Once indoors, sit his hibernaculum next to a heater or radiator for a few hours. Remove it once it reaches room temperature. Provide a heat lamp. While the hibernaculum is warming up, you need to prepare your tortoise an area to recover from hibernation. This area needs a heat lamp or a tortoise table in order for it to maintain the right temperature. The constant temperature in the tortoise enclosure needs to be at least 86 degrees Fahrenheit (30 degrees Celsius). The heat lamp should be around 150 Watts and mounted about 40 cm (15 to 16 inches) above where you lay your tortoise, which is perfect distance for him to bask in the heat. Do not rely on the natural heating in your house because it will not be hot enough for your tortoise. which has a heat lamp. Add extra light. You need to put your tortoise in an area where he will receive a lot of natural light. This is important to stimulate certain hormones in his body, which will encourage him to eat. To help stimulate your tortoise when he is coming out of hibernation, you can try an artificial UVB light. This will help him develop his appetite and immunities faster and help him regain the energy he lost during hibernation. The exact UVB bulb and set up will depend on your particular tortoise habitat, so you may want to ask your a qualified veterinarian that specializes in reptiles for advice. You can also ask a qualified pet store associate. The use of an extra UVB light is controversial among tortoise owners. Many people do not think that tortoises need more UVB light than that provided by the sun. Give him water. When your tortoise is just waking up, he needs plenty of water. This will help him flush any toxins out of his system that he accumulated while in hibernation. This is even more important than food since he needs to drink before he can eat. Your tortoise will not just drink the water from a bowl. You need to instead put him in a bath of lukewarm water no higher than his chin. Also splash it on his shell and head. When he first wakes up, he may dip his head under the water and drink directly from it. This is normal. Leave him for five minutes at a time and do it daily for about a week or so, which should be about the time he eats properly again. He then needs to sit with his tail region in a small bowl of water for about 20 minutes once to twice a day. Since tortoises can absorb water through their anuses, this will help him get hydrated while he wakes up. Make sure the water bowl is not so deep that he could drown. To keep just his tail end in the water, prop his upper body on a smooth rock or book and leave his tail end in the bowl of water. You can place him in a tub of water, but you have to ensure his head is not covered so he won't drown. Provide glucose in his water. One way to help boost your tortoise while he is waking up is to put a little glucose (sugar) in some water to help get his energy levels back up. While he hibernates, this is stored in his body, but he will regain energy faster with a little extra glucose on his system. Make a mixture of 2 teaspoons of sugar in 250 milliliters (8.5 fl oz) of water. Give your tortoise 10 to 20 milliliters (0.34 to 0.68 fl oz) of this solution a day as he is waking from hibernation. You can also use Pedialyte or Reptoboost, an electrolyte boosting substance specifically for reptiles. Only do this around the time he is waking up from hibernation. Doing it all the time can lead to high blood sugar levels. Offer him food. After you get your tortoise to drink water, he will also need to eat. Give him fresh fruits and vegetables that will entice him to eat. Tomatoes and strawberries are especially good when he is first waking up because tortoises find these foods extremely tasty, which will encourage him to eat them. The amount of food he eats will vary depending on what stage of the waking up period he is in, so just put in what you would normally feed him per day and gauge how much he eats. Since he will be under a heat lamp, you will need to put small portions out a few times a day. Leaving the fruit and veggies too long will cause them to dry out and your tortoise won't eat them. Look for signs of sickness. Once you've set to waking up your tortoise, he should start eating within seven days. If he doesn't, he may be sick. If you notice that your tortoise refuses to eat, you should take him to a vet that specializes in reptiles immediately. If you let it go, he could get worse. You also need to check his overall appearance and demeanor to see if he is healthy. When he wakes up, check his: Body for lumps, swelling, scraps, or cuts, as well as pinkness under his shell Eyes for inflammation or discharge Tail for unusual odor, discharge, or swelling Nose for blockage or discharge Mouth for signs of rot, which include yellow or white cheese-like residue Ears for abscesses The longer you leave him alone without treatment, the greater the risk of complications for him will be. This can lead to infection or overwhelming, which can cause organ failure. Give the right temperature control. The best temperature to keep a tortoise under while he is in hibernation is between four and six degrees Celsius (39 to 43 degrees Fahrenheit). This is not hot enough to wake up your tortoise and not cold enough to cause any cold based damage, such as frostbite. If you think the weather is too hot for your tortoise, you need to use refrigerator hibernation, which uses special refrigeration equipment. During this time, he will use his body fat reserves for nutrition to maintain his organ functions. Manipulate the natural weather conditions. Most places do not have the right natural weather patterns to match a tortoise's hibernation needs. This means you must manipulate his environment for him to mimic his natural hibernation habits. The maximum amount of time you should let your tortoise hibernate is four months, though he can hibernate for shorter periods of time. Avoid partially waking your tortoise. It is important to maintain your tortoise's environment while he is hibernating to avoid partially waking him up. If the temperature changes in his environment, his metabolism will be kick started and he could start to wake up. When this happens, he uses part of his reserves, which can weaken him if he goes back into hibernation. The most obvious sign that your tortoise has been partially woken up from hibernation is the presence of urine in his hibernaculum. Learn the side effects of improper waking. If you wake your tortoise improperly or allow him to hibernate too long, his health may go into an downward spiral. Your tortoise can wake up weak and have a suppressed immune system, which makes him more susceptible to infections and other sicknesses. If he uses too much energy during hibernation, he also may not have enough energy to ever wake up. If he also doesn't receive the right temperature conditions as he wakes up, he may not eat adequately, which will cause weakness and lead to a lack of energy reserves to keep him healthy and happy. If he is partially woken up and then goes back into hibernation, he runs the risk of getting sick from lack of energy when he wakes up in the spring. It is better to wake him up then leave him so he will be weak when he does come out of full hibernation. Know if your tortoise needs to hibernate. Only certain species of tortoises are meant to hibernate. This relies on your tortoise's native environment and if his history called from hibernation in order to survive. Common species that need to hibernate are the Hermann's tortoise, spur-thighed tortoise, Horsfield's or Russian tortoise, and Marginated tortoise. Never hibernate tropical species of tortoises, such as the Leopard tortoise. You should also not hibernate your tortoise if he is smaller than 700g in weight, or if he is sick or has health problems. If your tortoise has these problems, keep him awake and regulate his temperature during the cold months instead. Learn why he hibernates. Tortoises hibernate to conserve their energy. During the winter, your tortoise will likely go into hibernation if the conditions are right. This is because the colder conditions are not as suitable for him, so he goes into hibernation to conserve his energy and survive longer.	Determine when to wake your tortoise. Increase the temperature. Provide a heat lamp. Add extra light. Give him water. Provide glucose in his water. Offer him food. Look for signs of sickness. Give the right temperature control. Manipulate the natural weather conditions. Avoid partially waking your tortoise. Learn the side effects of improper waking. Know if your tortoise needs to hibernate. Learn why he hibernates.
https://www.wikihow.com/Do-a-Hair-Wrap	How to Do a Hair Wrap	To do a hair wrap, start by picking out a small lock of hair and putting it in a braid. Next, cut 4 separate pieces of string that are 2 to 3 times the length of your hair. Then, tie the threads around the top of the braid using an overhand knot. Once the threads are attached to the braid, hold 2 strings of the same color in 1 hand and lay the remaining strings flat along the braid. Finally, wrap your working strings tightly around both your hair and the other strings until the braid is fully wrapped.	Get some embroidery floss. A few different bright colors will give you the best results. You can use up to four different colors. You can select a set of colors to create an ombré effect. If you pick colors that are a similar hue but with different shades, you can fade from one to the other. You can also go from one hue to another that's next to it on the color wheel, for example yellow to orange. Other types of string, such as yarn, can work for hair wraps. Just make sure whatever material you're working with is colorfast. You don't want the dye to run the next time you shampoo your hair. It should also be fairly thin to keep your hair wrap from being too bulky. Pick out a small lock of hair and braid it. Thinner braids work better for hair wraps than thicker ones. Make sure your braid is very tight. Picking a strand closer to your face will have a bigger impact than one further back. If your hair doesn't hold braids well, you can secure it with a small hair tie at the bottom. If you already have your hair in braids or dreadlocks, you can add a splash of color by selecting one or more strands to wrap individually. Measure out and cut appropriate lengths of thread. You will need four separate strings that are roughly two- to-three times the length of your hair. Remember that it's much better to start with too much thread than too little. You can always trim off the excess at the end, but you can't add length to string that's too short. Tie the threads around the top of the braid using an overhand knot. You can always position the knot lower on the braid if you want your hair wrap to start further down. Overhand knots are the simplest knot you can tie: Make sure all four strings are parallel and bunched together so they can be treated as a single string. Loop the strings behind the top of the braid. Make sure that your braid is positioned in the center of the strings so that each end is equal. Take the right end and loop it back around the braid to the left. Start by crossing over the front of the braid and pull the end under and through the loop back towards the right. Pull both ends in opposite directions to tighten. Make sure your knot is very tight when making a hair wrap. Once the knot is complete, each string you started with will be divided in half. Before starting your wrap in earnest, you'll have twice as many strings to work with. For example, if you began with four strings, you should now have eight individual strands hanging from the base of your wrap. Hold two strings of the same color in your dominant hand. These will be your "working strings." Lay the remaining six strings (if you started with four) flat along the braid. Keep them taught by holding both the strings and your braid in your non-dominant hand. Wrap your working strings tightly around both your hair and the other six strings. Keep going, moving down the braid as you wrap. Be sure to leave at least an inch or two on your working string to help your wrap's stability. One technique to ensure a tight wrap is to do four wraps around, push these wraps up, and repeat. Switch working strings when you want to start a section with a new color. Whether your working strings are getting short or you simply want to move on to the next color, you'll swap strings multiple times while making your hair wrap. Simply add your working strings to the other six and pick out two new strings of the same color. When using two colors, you can make a striking pattern of alternating stripes. Try to make the stripes all one width for a well-crafted look. One very popular style of hair wrap is the ombré look, which is an effect where multiple similar colors are lined up to create a gradient from one color to another similar color. Examples would be light blue to dark blue, intense magenta to pale pink, and yellow to orange. If you're making an ombré wrap, start with your first color and wrap about a quarter of your braid. Switch to the second color that most closely matches the first. Repeat with the last two colors, ending with the color that contrasts the most with your starting color. Incorporate beads and charms. This step is totally optional. Most hair wraps don't have any embellishments. If you want to add some, however, it's very easy to do: Pick a bead or some other small object that can be threaded onto a string, such as a charm. Keep in mind that your hair wrap is likely to get wet, so don't choose anything made of metals that are easily corroded (rust or turn green). At any point while wrapping your hair, string the bead through your working strings. Push it up so it's positioned at the bottom of your wrap. Simply continue wrapping once the bead is in place. Attach a feather to the bottom of the wrap. This is another optional step that adds a little flair to your hair wrap. Once you're almost to the bottom of your braid with about an inch of hair left, line up a feather's quill with your braid and the remaining strings. Continue your wrap, this time including the feather's quill. If you used a hair tie to hold the ends, you can slide the quill under the hair tie to hold it in place. Finish your hair wrap by knotting all strings at the bottom. Tie tight knots of your choice to keep your wrap from unraveling. You may choose to tie a double or triple knot for added durability. If there is any excess loose string after you tie your knot, trim it off with your scissors. Cut your hair wrap at its base when you're done wearing it. If you made your wrap well, it is unlikely to fall out on its own. The most common way to remove a hair wrap is to simply remove the entire lock of hair. Some people keep their wrapped lock of hair as a memento. If you don't want to lose that strand of hair, you can try removing the hair wrap by cutting the knots at the end and unraveling it by hand. Keep in mind this will take much longer than a simple trim. The more tightly you wind your wrap, the longer it will stay looking great. The average amount of time it takes a wrap to start seeming shabby is three weeks. If you avoid soaking it when washing your hair, your wrap will last longer.	Get some embroidery floss. Pick out a small lock of hair and braid it. Measure out and cut appropriate lengths of thread. Tie the threads around the top of the braid using an overhand knot. Hold two strings of the same color in your dominant hand. Wrap your working strings tightly around both your hair and the other six strings. Switch working strings when you want to start a section with a new color. Incorporate beads and charms. Attach a feather to the bottom of the wrap. Finish your hair wrap by knotting all strings at the bottom. Cut your hair wrap at its base when you're done wearing it.
https://www.wikihow.com/Install-a-Magic-Mesh	How to Install a Magic Mesh	To attach a Magic Mesh screen on your door frame, start by peeling the backing off the soft side of each adhesive strip and attaching the strips to the back of the Magic Mesh screen. Then, remove the remaining backing from the adhesive strips, line up the top of the Magic Mesh with the top of your door frame, and press down on the strips to attach the mesh to the frame. Finally, test the screen by walking through the center of it and making sure the magnets split apart and come back together properly.	Spread the Magic Mesh out on the ground. Spread out the Magic Mesh, laying it over the ground or another large, flat surface. Make sure the magnets are aligned in the middle. Note that the top of the Magic Mesh will have a larger gap between the magnets and curtains than the bottom. Check the magnets to make sure they align symmetrically. While the Magic Mesh is laid out, open and close the magnets down the middle to see if they attract. Be sure that each set of magnets lines up evenly. If the magnets are not symmetrical, this could leave a gap in your Magic Mesh that will let bugs into your home. Note that you will need to separate each pair of magnets before installing the screen. Attach the 12 adhesive strips to the Magic Mesh frame. Peel the backing off of the soft side of each adhesive strip. Apply the exposed adhesive directly to the back of the Magic Mesh screen. Spread each of the 12 strips provided across the entire frame of the mesh. Make sure that each strip sticks to the screen securely. Wipe down the door frame and let it air dry. Use a clean, damp cloth to wipe away any dirt or debris from the surface of your door frame. Grime can prevent the adhesive strips from sticking to the door frame. Allow the frame to air dry naturally before installing the Magic Mesh screen. Measure the door's height to determine how high to hang the screen. Use a measuring tape to measure the height of the door frame. Taking into account the length of the Magic Mesh, calculate whether or not the mesh will drag on the ground. With a pencil, mark the point you need to hang the top of the mesh to prevent it from touching the ground. Measure the door's width and mark the halfway point. Use a measuring tape to measure the width of your door frame. Note that measurement, then divide it in half to determine where the middle of the door is. Mark the center point with a pencil. Attach the top, middle part of the Magic Mesh first. Remove the backings of the adhesive strips that you placed at the halfway point on top of your Magic Mesh. Line up the top of the mesh with the line you marked on top of your door frame. Attach this part of the mesh to the frame. Continue sticking the rest of the mesh to your door frame. After attaching the top part of your Magic Mesh, continue around the perimeter of the door. Start with the top of the Magic Mesh, moving out towards one side of the door and then the other. Continue down each side of the door frame, making sure that the mesh hangs evenly. Reinforce the mesh with tacks if you have a wooden door frame. For added security, reinforce the Magic Mesh by inserting tacks around the perimeter of the door frame. Put the tacks through the mesh, above or below the adhesive strips. Push the tacks into the wooden frame. This step is only applicable if you have a wooden door frame. Omit this step if you are installing your Magic Mesh around any other type of door. Test the Magic Mesh screen. Test out your Magic Mesh screen by walking through the center of it several times. The magnets should split apart as you walk through them and close back together once you leave the doorway. If the screen does not work as designed, you may need to reinstall it, moving the panels closer or further apart as necessary.	Spread the Magic Mesh out on the ground. Check the magnets to make sure they align symmetrically. Attach the 12 adhesive strips to the Magic Mesh frame. Wipe down the door frame and let it air dry. Measure the door's height to determine how high to hang the screen. Measure the door's width and mark the halfway point. Attach the top, middle part of the Magic Mesh first. Continue sticking the rest of the mesh to your door frame. Reinforce the mesh with tacks if you have a wooden door frame. Test the Magic Mesh screen.
https://www.wikihow.com/Take-Magnesium-Citrate	How to Take Magnesium Citrate	Taking magnesium citrate can help with constipation, indigestion, irregular heartbeats, and migraines, among other things. When taking magnesium citrate, always take the dose that's recommended on the packaging. Also, make sure you drink 8 fluid ounces of water with each dose since magnesium citrate can increase your risk of dehydration. You should also take your dose with food to avoid digestive issues.	Purchase an oral laxative. To help relieve irregularity and constipation, look for magnesium citrate in the form of a saline oral laxative solution. These are available over-the-counter and can be found in most supermarkets and drugstores. Take the amount recommended on the bottle. Different brands of laxative will have slightly different instructions, so read the back of the bottle carefully before taking any medicine. Pay special attention to how many doses the bottle contains, how often you should take it, and the amount recommended for people your age. Read any listed warnings before taking the laxative. If necessary, consult a doctor prior to use. Take each dose with 8 fluid ounces (240 ml) of water. Laxative solutions require a significant amount of liquid to work, meaning they can cause dehydration when used improperly. To avoid this, take your laxative with a full, 8 fluid ounces (240 ml) glass of water. After use, make sure to keep yourself hydrated throughout the day. Use laxatives sparingly to keep your bowels strong. Laxatives should be used to fix occasional irregularity, not long-term bowel problems. To keep your bowels strong and healthy, do not use laxatives for over 7 days at a time. If your constipation symptoms remain for longer than a week, stop taking magnesium citrate and consult your doctor immediately. Purchase 200-500 mg dietary capsules or tablets. To fix issues not related to constipation, such as magnesium and calcium deficiency, look for magnesium citrate capsules or tablets that have “Dietary Supplement” written on the label and contain between 200 and 500 milligrams per unit. Avoid products that skew far higher or lower than these amounts, as dose recommendations for magnesium citrate tend to be around 400 mg. Take each dose as instructed on the packaging. Read the back of your supplement case to see how large a dose you should take and how often you should take it. Some brands put an entire dose in one pill, while others split it among two or three. Before taking the supplement, look through any warnings listed on the package. Talk to your doctor if necessary. If you are pregnant or breastfeeding, avoid taking any dietary supplements unless prescribed by a doctor. Drink 8 fluid ounces (240 ml) of water with each dose. Your body can absorb magnesium citrate extremely quickly. That's great for enjoying the benefits of each capsule or tablet, but it can leave you dehydrated if you're not careful. Make sure to take each dose with an 8 fluid ounces (240 ml) glass of water, and drink more throughout the day as necessary. Take your dose while eating to avoid stomach aches and diarrhea. Though not marketed as laxatives, magnesium citrate dietary supplements can potentially cause bowel movements, bloating, nausea, stomach pain, and diarrhea. To minimize the chance of this happening, take your dose with food. If possible, take the supplement during a meal.	Purchase an oral laxative. Take the amount recommended on the bottle. Take each dose with 8 fluid ounces (240 ml) of water. Use laxatives sparingly to keep your bowels strong. Purchase 200-500 mg dietary capsules or tablets. Take each dose as instructed on the packaging. Drink 8 fluid ounces (240 ml) of water with each dose. Take your dose while eating to avoid stomach aches and diarrhea.
https://www.wikihow.com/Chop-Wood	How to Chop Wood	Before you chop wood, put on work boots, work gloves, and safety glasses for protection. Then, find a thick piece of wood or a flared stump for a chopping block. Next, balance the wood you want to split on the chopping block, and bring the axe from up over your head or shoulder down onto the wood. Make sure to hold the axe with both hands, and let your dominant hand slide down the axe handle toward your non-dominant hand as you swing. If the wood doesn't split completely, use a sledgehammer and wedge to finish the job.	Get yourself ready. Not only will you need some ready-to-split logs of appropriate length, which is approximately the length of your forearm, and your trusty axe, but you should also ensure your safety by equipping yourself with: Work gloves Workboots (preferably steel-toe) Safety glasses (optional, but recommended) Find and position your chopping block. If you don't have a chopping block already, your most likely choice will be a large, thick piece of un-split wood. A flared stump also makes an excellent chopping block. If you choose a thick piece of wood, look for one that is knotty, as these will be more resistant to the force of your axe and last longest as a chopping block. Elm wood has a grain to it that makes it naturally split resistant. If an elmwood chopping block is available to you, you should take advantage of it. A recycled tire around the top of your chopping block can stabilize pieces of wood that don't balance well on your chopping block. A chopping block should always have yield; chopping on a hard surface can do damage to your axe or, in the case of a dangerous deflection, yourself. Position your wood. Take the piece of wood you want to split and balance it on your chopping block. You may have to adjust your wood to get it to stand correctly due to natural irregularities, like splits or knots, in the wood growth. Your log should be as stable as possible, with the area you are striking pointing toward the position where you will be chopping wood. Face the wood and your chopping block. Make sure there are no twigs, loose stones, slick mud, or anything else underfoot that might cause you to slip. Stand with your feet shoulder-width apart and address your wood and chopping block head-on. It is important that you keep your legs spread shoulder-width apart. Poorly balanced wood or irregular grain/knots in the wood can cause your axe to hit a glancing blow. Keeping your legs shoulder-width apart keeps you safest from landing your axe on your foot or toes. Grip your axe correctly. Take your axe in both hands with your dominant hand near the head of the axe and your non-dominant hand toward the end of the handle. A proper swing is executed by allowing your dominant hand to slide down the axe handle toward your other hand, which should remain stationary. This will give you greater control and delivers a more powerful blow. Observe the grain of the wood. Note any knots or limbs. These will make your wood much harder to split. To split a knotted piece of wood, your best approach is going to be the most smooth-grained part of the wood between knots/limbs. Checks, or small cracks already in your wood, are ideal places for you to land an axe blow. The easiest wood to split will be smooth-grained, with the lines of the wood looking consistent and regular Prepare your swing. Focus on your target. Bring your axe up on your dominant side, arcing it up over your shoulder in a smooth and steady motion. Grip the axe firmly in preparation for the swing, and make sure your stance is stable and your legs shoulder-width apart. Another acceptable technique is to bring your axe straight overhead and down on your piece of wood. Swing the axe. Bring the axe quickly and firmly down, allowing your dominant hand to slide down the axe handle toward your other hand. Keep your focus steady on the spat at which you are aiming until your axe has struck. Depending on the thickness and knottiness of your wood, you may have to repeat your strike one or more times before the wood is split. Evaluate your need. If you are splitting normal-sized wood, unless it is unnaturally knotty or a kind of wood resistant to chopping (like elm), you likely won't need to use a wedge. If the wood is tough and several axe swings leave cuts, cracks, but no clean split, it's time for you to get some more tools. Collect your supplemental wood-splitting tools. When an axe alone simply can't do the job, it's time for you to get a long metal wedge and a sledgehammer. You can purchase these from your local hardware store or perhaps even borrow these from a neighbor. Identify a central crack or promising cut. Even if your axe didn't pass all the way through your piece of wood, chopping it cleanly, if you landed a few hits, there will probably be at least some deep cuts in the wood, or maybe even a crack. Look for the deepest cut or crack in your wood; this is where you will split the wood. Some especially large or difficult pieces of wood may require more than one wedge. Insert your wedge. As the wood will be softer than your wedge, you probably won't have a problem jamming the wedge into the cut or crack that you've chosen for your split. If you're attempting to cut an especially hard kind of wood, you may need to tap your wedge into place with your sledgehammer. Prepare your hammer swing. Using the same form as you did with your axe, keep your legs shoulder-width apart, your dominant hand close to the head of the sledgehammer, your eye focused on the wedge, and bring the hammer into position above your shoulder. Swing your sledgehammer. Allow your dominant hand to slide down the handle of your hammer toward your stationary non-dominant hand, and bring the hammer quickly and firmly down on the wedge. This should drive the wedge more deeply into the piece of wood, causing the cut to turn into a crack or the crack that was already there to deepen. You may need to swing your hammer multiple times to drive the wedge deeper into the wood. Separate the wood, if necessary. Sometimes, the wedge will cause the knot to break apart in a clean split, other times you may have to apply some muscle to pull the mostly split piece apart. In some cases, you may need to use your axe to carefully sever any connecting pieces that remain. Read the manual. Each firewood cutting machine will be a little different, and knowing its features and proper operation procedure will ensure safe use. Always operate these machines with care, as a mistake can result in serious injury. Check safety procedures. Before starting the machine, you should make sure its track is clear of objects, that cover panels are in place, and that you are wearing the right safety equipment to be operating the machine. These machines often require: Non-loose clothing Safety glasses Work Gloves Fuel or power the machine. Some firewood splitters will be powered as attachments to a tractor, others might be powered by electric or gas power sources. Do not leave fuel or a power line anywhere that you might trip over it, or anywhere it might become tangled in the components of the machine. Gather your wood. Once you have read the manual, you'll know the loading procedure of the machine. This will give you a better idea of where to best position the wood for loading it into the hydraulic splitter. Accumulate your wood where most convenient for your machine. Power on your splitter. Start the machine and observe its normal running procedure, without adding any wood. Make sure it appears to be running smoothly and check operations against the manual. Feed wood into the firewood processor. Follow the instructions in your manual for loading uncut and removing cut firewood from your machine. No matter what kind of machine you are using, once it is powered on, always exercise caution around the splitter of the machine.	Get yourself ready. Find and position your chopping block. Position your wood. Face the wood and your chopping block. Grip your axe correctly. Observe the grain of the wood. Prepare your swing. Swing the axe. Evaluate your need. Collect your supplemental wood-splitting tools. Identify a central crack or promising cut. Insert your wedge. Prepare your hammer swing. Swing your sledgehammer. Separate the wood, if necessary. Read the manual. Check safety procedures. Fuel or power the machine. Gather your wood. Power on your splitter. Feed wood into the firewood processor.
https://www.wikihow.com/Take-Care-of-Relaxed-African-Hair	How to Take Care of Relaxed African Hair	To take care of relaxed African hair, wash it and use deep condition it 1 to 2 times a week. When picking products, always choose natural ingredients, like aloe vera, coconut, and argan oil. While you're sleeping, make sure to wrap your hair in a silk scarf to keep your hair tangle free. It's also important to protect your hair from heat damage, so use curling and straightening irons as little as you can and wait at least 2 months in between relaxing treatments.	Wash your hair 1-2 times a week to prevent excessive dryness. African hair should not be washed every day. To preserve your natural oils and prevent breakage caused from dryness, wash your hair about 1 time a week. If your hair is greasy or your scalp is itchy, you can wash your hair more than once a week. This is just a guideline. Detangle your hair with your fingers when you are in the shower. Instead of using a brush or a comb, get major tangles out of your hair with your fingers. As your hair is wet, comb through it with your fingers and separate the strands with any knots or tangles. Start from the ends of your hair and work your way up the strands. Detangle your hair before you apply shampoo or conditioner. If your hair is very knotted, apply your shampoo or conditioner first. This lubricates your hair and makes it easier to untangle. In addition, you can use a wide-tooth comb to help untangle it. Only use this if you have to. Try washing your hair with conditioner instead of using shampoo. Shampoos are often too harsh for African hair. To wash your hair yet still provide moisture, use conditioner instead! Apply a generous amount to your hair after you completely wet it, and work the conditioner through your hair with your fingers. In addition, rub the roots of your hair with the conditioner to cleanse your scalp. Finally, rinse your hair thoroughly after 1-3 minutes. If you don't want to use conditioner as your shampoo, ensure you use sulfate-free shampoo. Sulfates in shampoo often strip your hair of natural oils, which help prevent breakage. Use a deep conditioning treatment 1-2 times a week. Apply a generous amount from root to tip after you wash your hair. Let the conditioner sit on your hair for 15-45 minutes. For best results, wrap your hair in a plastic shower cap. Rinse the conditioner out completely after it sits on your hair for a while. Applying a deep conditioner prevents hair breakage by infusing your hair with intense conditioning ingredients. Your hair can be damp or dry when using deep conditioner. For a deeper treatment, sit under a hair dryer after you put on the shower cap. The heat will help the conditioner penetrate your hair deeper. Look for deep conditioners for chemically treated or relaxed hair with ingredients like coconut oil, argan oil, aloe vera juice, and honey. Apply leave-in conditioner and natural oils to your hair while it is damp. After you get out of the shower, use a generous amount of leave-in conditioner and apply it to all of your hair from root to tip. Then, squeeze a quarter-sized amount of a natural oil into your hands, rub your palms together, and run it through all of your hair. Your hair will soak up the leave-in conditioner quickly, so don't be afraid to cover the strands! Your hair needs moisture to keep its elasticity and resist damages, especially after you relax it. For best results, use a water-based leave-in conditioner. Look for ingredients including aloe vera and glycerine as well. Use natural products instead of alcohol or synthetic ingredients. Hair products with harsh ingredients will strip your hair of any natural oils and cause excessive dryness. To prevent this, always use natural ingredients, like coconut, jojoba, or argan oils. These are best for African hair. Shop for products at beauty or health food stores. You can also use products specifically made for African hair. Avoid products with petroleum or petrolatum. Be gentle with your hair at all times to avoid damages and breakage. Your hair follicles are fragile after you relax them, so you always want to handle your hair with care. When you apply product, wash your hair, or brush your hair, treat it as if each strand is made of gold. Brush your hair gently, and run your fingers through your hair slowly rather than aggressively. For example, when combing your hair, you can remove the brush from your hair at the ends, rather than combing all the way through. In addition, you can use wide-tooth combs or brushes rather than brushes with firm, hard bristles. Wrap your hair in a silk scarf to keep it protected while you sleep. Wrap your hair around your head following its natural shape, and then place a silk scarf across the top of your head. Gather the ends of the scarf at the back of your head, and secure the scarf with 2 knots to keep it in place. Then, twist the ends of the ponytail several times so it does not come undone. Pull the end of the scarf across your forehead, and tuck it underneath the scarf near your eyebrow. Silk scarves provide a soft buffer between your hair and your pillowcase. This prevents breakage caused by moving your head in your sleep. This also saves you time in the morning! If you wrap your hair, it will stay straight and tangle-free as you sleep. Use heating styling tools sparingly. Frequent use of flat irons and curling irons eventually leads to hair dryness and damages. Use them as minimally as you can, and always use the lowest heat setting if you do decide to use them. Using styling tools occasionally is okay, just make sure to use a heat-protectant serum or spray first. Create protective hairstyles to avoid breakage. There are countless options for protective hair styles! To find a protective hairstyle, search online and pick out some style ideas. For a simple solution, pull your hair back into a sleek ponytail, and secure a hair tie around your hair at the base of your neck. After 1 or 2 weeks, you can find a stylist to give you all over braids, rope twists, or cornrows. These styles keep your relaxed hair protected from damages while giving you a stylish, elegant look. You can create a board on Pinterest, for example. Trim your ends every 4-6 weeks to keep your hair healthy. After you relax your hair, your ends will be extremely dry. You can easily snip them off yourself or get a trim at a salon. Routinely trimming your ends keeps your hair healthy, removes split ends, and revitalizes the follicle. For best results, get a haircut every few weeks. Get a protein treatment 1 week before your next relaxer treatment. In addition to regularly using leave-in conditioner and deep-conditioning products, invest in a repairing protein treatment. Protein treatments infuse the hair with rich nutrients, which reduces the amount of follicle damage and strengthens the hair. Search online for a salon near you that offers protein treatments, and call to schedule an appointment. It is best to get a protein treatment done by a professional. If you apply the protein treatment for too long or incorrectly, it can damage your hair even more. For best results, get a protein treatment about once a month. Reapply your relaxer after 8-16 weeks. It may be tempting to touch up your roots as they grow in, but if you can fight the temptation, wait 2-4 months in between your relaxer treatments. This keeps your hair as healthy as possible and prevents hair damage in between treatments. Applying straightening chemicals to your hair can lead to damage, breakage, and potentially permanent hair loss. You may want to relax your hair more frequently if your hair grows very quickly or if you have short hair. It is best to wait as long as possible if you can! Avoid using chemical hair dyes. Your hair is already processed, and using additional chemicals to change your hair will damage it further. Rock your natural hair color instead! In addition, avoid bleaching your hair. This uses harsh chemicals that will over-process your hair.	Wash your hair 1-2 times a week to prevent excessive dryness. Detangle your hair with your fingers when you are in the shower. Try washing your hair with conditioner instead of using shampoo. Use a deep conditioning treatment 1-2 times a week. Apply leave-in conditioner and natural oils to your hair while it is damp. Use natural products instead of alcohol or synthetic ingredients. Be gentle with your hair at all times to avoid damages and breakage. Wrap your hair in a silk scarf to keep it protected while you sleep. Use heating styling tools sparingly. Create protective hairstyles to avoid breakage. Trim your ends every 4-6 weeks to keep your hair healthy. Get a protein treatment 1 week before your next relaxer treatment. Reapply your relaxer after 8-16 weeks. Avoid using chemical hair dyes.
https://www.wikihow.com/Develop-a-Theme-when-Writing	How to Develop a Theme when Writing	To develop a theme when writing, use a variety of cues like descriptions, repetition, and symbolism to get your ideas across. Description is useful because it shows readers how someone feels by describing their appearance and actions. Then, as you repeat similar events and emotions throughout your work, readers notice and understand them more. If you include symbolism in those events, you can connect your story to real events and make the story more realistic.	Understand the difference between "subject" and "theme. " "Subject" is a more general term than "theme." In non-fiction, the subject is a general topic of interest, while in fiction, the subject is some aspect of the human condition explored within the work. A theme is an explicit or implicit statement about the subject. As a non-fiction example, a white paper could have as its subject be the improvement of the security of the cargo transportation supply chain. Its theme would be the forms of business data and means to access it that could provide those improvements. As a fiction example, the Hans Christian Anderson story, "The Ugly Duckling," has a subject of alienation in that the main character is depicted as different from his peers. The themes, however, are themes of failure to fit in, as well as self-discovery as the "duckling" grows up to discover he was actually a swan. Identify the purpose of your writing. The purpose behind your writing will shape how you develop your theme in the piece. There are numerous purposes as to why someone writes. Your writing may serve any of these purposes (or any combination thereof): Documenting or recording an event or information Reflection on an idea Demonstration of knowledge Summary of information Explanation of an idea Analysis of a problem Persuasion Theorization that speculates or seeks to explain an issue Entertainment Identify your audience. Understanding who your audience is lets you determine which themes are appropriate to your audience. This will also help you identify how best to present those themes to your audience. You can determine what themes are appropriate to your audience by realistically assessing how much knowledge and experience the audience has. For example, in a business marketing letter, your audience will be prospective customers. Your purpose is to inform or persuade them to buy, and your theme might be to show them how your product will meet their needs. You may include statements of needs your customer will identify with, and then follow each statement with a short paragraph about how your product relates to that need. Dr. Seuss wrote books for young children, requiring him to use a limited vocabulary. His "The Star-Bellied Sneetches" had a theme of learning to accept differences. In the story, the Sneetches learn to accept differences after applying and removing their belly stars so many times that they no longer remember their original appearances. In telling the story, Seuss used short words, made up words, and wrote in a distinctive rhyming cadence that made his words. This helps the reader recognize and remember the lessons behind them. Consider the length of what you're writing. Longer works, such as novels or memoirs, permit the inclusion of other themes subordinate to the primary theme of your work. In contrast, shorter works, such as short stories or editorials, usually have room to address only a single theme, although they may give passing reference to supporting ideas. Make an outline of your story. Most stories start with a kernel of an idea. This may hint at the theme of your story, or the theme may emerge through the development of the story. If you have an idea for a story, it will be helpful to sketch out the story. Then you can start to determine the different directions it can take. This then points to potential themes that you can focus on. Outline your story, listing the characters and setting out the order of events that will happen in the story. Brainstorm ideas that can represent your theme. Once you've identified a theme for your story, you can start to think about ways in which to represent that theme. Start with a free association exercise. In this exercise, focus on your theme – either the word or phrase (such as “family” or “environment” or “corporate greed”). Let your mind wander and observe the thoughts, people, images and so on that enter into your mind. Write down these thoughts and images. Try out the technique of “mind-mapping”. In this technique, you start with a central idea and begin to map out the ways in which the story develops. This way, you can also start to identify how the theme weaves through the story. Look into your character’s motivations. Your story's characters are tasked with goals and aspirations. These motivations drive your character to act certain ways. These actions often feed into your theme. For example, if your character is passionate about becoming a vegan, you might start to examine themes of whether humans have the right to take control over the natural world. In many non-fiction pieces, such as a letter to the editor, you are the “character” and your motivation is what will define the theme. For example, if you are writing a letter to your congressperson about a recent oil spill in your community, your theme could be something like the need for environmental cleanup and responsibility. Think about your story’s conflict. The characters in your story are faced with a conflict that drives the plot. This may be an event or an antagonist. When you figure out the central conflict of your story, you may start to uncover your theme. For example, your character's parent committed a crime. Your character, a police officer, is faced with a moral dilemma of whether to arrest the parent or not. Your theme could start to emerge from this conflict. Research to support your theme. Research is important in both non-fiction and fiction. In non-fiction, you are primarily looking for facts to support your theme and the points supporting it. In fiction, research also feeds into making your characters and the environment in which they interact as realistic as possible. Realize that you can have more than one theme. There isn't any rule that says you can only have one theme. You may have a dominant theme with sub-themes that strengthen and deepen your thematic dimension. For example, perhaps your dominant theme is the human impact on the environment, and you have sub-themes of corporate greed and the breakdown of community in modern society. Choose ways to present your theme to your reader. A solidly presented theme will emerge through many different facets of your story. Start thinking about how your theme will become apparent to your readers. Some of these ways include: Through characters' actions, thoughts and speech Through symbolic use of the environment Through repeating ideas Through highlighting symbols or landmarks Through contrasting values Use narration to present facts and details. Narration means to present facts and details in an organized, usually chronological fashion to tell what happened and who it happened to. Narration is used in most newspaper articles and commonly in stories told in the first person. Use description to build an image in the reader’s mind. Description is the use of words that invoke the senses to build an image in the reader's mind of the item being described. Description is particularly powerful in fiction as a substitute for narration. Instead of writing that a character was angry, you describe the character as having bulging eyes, flared nostrils, and a beet-red face, and use "thundered," "shouted," or "screamed" in place of "said" to describe the character's voice. Use the tool of comparison and contrast. Comparison is showing the similarities of two or more things. Contrast is showing the differences between two or more things. Comparison and contrast can be used in both fiction and non-fiction. For example, comparison and contrast was used to describe the lifestyles of the protagonists in Mark Twain's "The Prince and the Pauper." It can also be used for a side-by-side comparison of laptop computer features. Try an analogy. A form of comparison and contrast, the analogy compares something familiar to something unfamiliar to explain the unfamiliar item. An example of an analogy is comparing Earth's size in the universe as a grain of sand. Incorporate symbolism into your story. Symbolism is using something to represent something else, such as the storm gathering around Roderick Usher's house in Poe's "The Fall of the House of Usher." This represents Usher's own disquiet after his sister's burial. Symbolism is more common in fiction than non-fiction and requires the reader to be familiar with the symbols you use and their intended meaning. Try a recurring motif to institute symbolism in your story. You might have a recurring motif or detail of a person singing “Ave Maria” in your story. Get feedback. Allow lots of people read your writing. It is helpful to get other eyes on a piece of writing so that you know whether your ideas are conveyed clearly. Ask these readers about their impressions. See if they can identify your theme without prompting. Be open to the ways that other people respond to your writing. They might be able to point out errors that you regularly make, which can help clarify and improve your writing. They might also ask thought-provoking questions that helps you consider an angle you hadn't previously considered. Remember that this feedback is not intended to be personal; they are responding to the writing, not to you. Put away your writing for a few days. Get some distance from your writing by putting it away for a bit. Sometimes when we write, we're so invested in the story and shaping the words that we lose sight of the bigger picture. Take a break from your writing by turning your focus to a different project for a few days. Then come back to your writing and reread it. Make changes to your theme. Based on your own evaluation of the piece, as well as the feedback you've solicited from others, make alterations to your theme. You may recognize that, while you thought your theme was one aspect, your readers interpreted it very differently. For example, perhaps you have been focusing your theme on a firefighter's triumph over her parents' disapproval. But then you realize that your story is really about the firefighter's struggle in a male-dominated profession. A change to your theme might necessitate adding or deleting some passages that do not strengthen your theme.	Understand the difference between "subject" and "theme. Identify the purpose of your writing. Identify your audience. Consider the length of what you're writing. Make an outline of your story. Brainstorm ideas that can represent your theme. Look into your character’s motivations. Think about your story’s conflict. Research to support your theme. Realize that you can have more than one theme. Choose ways to present your theme to your reader. Use narration to present facts and details. Use description to build an image in the reader’s mind. Use the tool of comparison and contrast. Try an analogy. Incorporate symbolism into your story. Get feedback. Put away your writing for a few days. Make changes to your theme.
https://www.wikihow.com/Treat-a-Facial-Burn-from-a-Curling-Iron-to-Prevent-Scars	How to Treat a Facial Burn from a Curling Iron to Prevent Scars	If you burn your face with a curling iron, turn the curling iron off immediately to prevent any more damage. If the burn is larger than 3 inches, or charred black and white, get emergency medical treatment. Otherwise, you can safely treat it at home by wetting a clean cloth with cool water. Hold the cloth to the burn for 5 minutes to help it cool down. If you have aloe vera gel available, cover the burn in a thin layer to provide pain relief and prevent scarring. Protect the burn by covering it with a pressure bandage to help reduce scarring. While your burn is healing, avoid being in the sun and keep your skin moisturized so that it doesn't dry out.	Turn off the curling iron. You'll need to focus on cleaning off the burn right now, and you don't want to worry about the curling iron. Turn it off or unplug it, and set it down somewhere out of the way so you don't accidentally touch it while taking care of yourself. Identify the kind of burn you have. There are three kinds of burns you can get on your skin. Each type requires a different kind of treatment, so you'll need to be sure what you have before doing anything else. First-degree burns are the most common and least serious. These are minor burns that you can treat yourself. A first-degree burn will have redness, swelling, and pain. If the burn involves most of your face, though, treat it more seriously and get emergency medical help. Second-degree burns are more serious, and your treatment will depend on the size of the burn. A second-degree burn may have red, white, or splotchy skin, swelling, pain, and blisters. If the burn is 3 inches or smaller, you can treat it like a minor burn. If it is larger, treat like a major burn and get medical help immediately. Third-degree burns are the most serious, and involve burning off all the skin and underlying fat. The area may be charred black or white. If you have a third-degree burn, you may also experience difficulty breathing, carbon monoxide poisoning, or other toxic effects from smoke inhalation. You probably won't get a third-degree burn from a curling iron, but it is something you should be aware of. Cool the burn. Running water is not recommended for any burn, as it can damage the swollen, injured skin and increase blistering/scarring. However, you can hold a cool, clean wet cloth on the burn for 5 minutes to help cool it down. The water should be cool, not cold, so avoid ice or cold water. Water is the best choice for cleaning. Irritants like harsh soap, hydrogen peroxide, iodine, and alcohol will probably only delay healing, making a scar more likely. Cover with a thin layer of aloe vera. Use some pure aloe vera gel to help sooth the wound. Apply a thin layer of the gel to the burn. This will give you some relief and it can also prevent scars from developing. Do not use cream, lotion, oil, cortisone, butter, or egg whites on the burn. Cover the burn with a bandage. A pressure bandage on the burned area will break up the scar tissue and prevent rubbing. This will help to reduce the appearance of scars. Make sure to avoid using a dressing or bandage that sheds fibers, as they can get caught in the burn. If you need the bandage for longer than a day, be sure to change it once a day, or whenever it gets wet. Take pain relievers as you need them. To reduce pain, go ahead and take the recommended dosage of over-the-counter medications like ibuprofen (Advil, Motrin IB), naproxen sodium (Aleve), or acetaminophen (Tylenol). This can help prevent you from feeling or itching the burn area, which can help lead to further scarring. If the person who was burned is a child, they can take ibuprofen or acetaminophen for pain relief as well. However, do not give aspirin to individuals under 20 years of age, as it can lead to severe complications. Follow the dosage instructions on the bottle. Children can take naproxen as well, but the usage should be managed by a doctor. Watch for signs of infection. A burn is a wound, and you need to be careful that it doesn't give you a common infection like cellulitis. Cellulitis symptoms include fever and chills, swollen glands or lymph nodes, and a painful red rash. The skin around the rash may blister and scab over. If you notice signs of an infection, go see your doctor for treatment. Keep your skin hydrated. Make sure the burn area is kept moist with cool water or ointments. Aloe vera is another good choice for soothing the burn area and keeping it hydrated. Petroleum jelly can be another way to help keep moisture trapped on your skin. Make sure you wash your skin before applying it. The jelly will help trap moisture on the location and keep it moisturized a little longer. You can use petroleum jelly after the first 24 hours, once the heat from the burn has dissipated. You can also try applying some vitamin E oil or an anti-scar cream that contains silica in it. Another good way to help keep your skin hydrated is to drink water. 8 to 10 glasses a day will help keep your skin moisturized and prevent scarring if you should burn yourself with the iron. Stay out of the sun. Sunlight isn't great for the skin as is, and can increases the chances of a scar appearing. Try to go outside only during early mornings and late evenings when the sun is least intense. Wearing something like a hat to protect your face is also a good idea. If you do go outside, make sure to use sunscreen on your whole face, including the burn site. Look for sunscreens with blocking agents like zinc or titanium dioxide, and an SPF of 30 or higher. Eat healthy. Skin-healthy foods will help keep bacteria away and allow for the formation of new skin cells. Eating well will help your skin avoid scarring if you do burn, and will help scars heal more quickly. Skin-friendly foods include yellow and orange fruits and vegetables like carrots and apricots, leafy green vegetables like spinach, beans, peas, lentils, nuts, and fatty fish like salmon and mackerel. More general healthy foods like low-fat or fat-free dairy and whole-grain breads and pastas are also helpful for maintaining healthy skin. Some foods can be associated with skin damage, and avoiding them can keep your skin healthy and strong. These include refined sugars, other foods high in processed or refined carbohydrates, and other intakes like caffeine and tobacco. Don’t pick at scabs. The scab that appears on your burn will help keep the area moist, and prevent bacteria from getting in. Avoid the temptation to scratch and pull off the scab. This will only make the healing take longer, and could create a larger scar. When the wound is healed, the scab will fall off on its own. Don’t break any blisters. Breaking any small blisters that may appear over the burn area can lead to scars. If they do break, gently clean with a mild soap and water, apply an antibiotic, and cover with a gauze bandage. If you start to see large blisters, those could be a sign of a more serious burn. You should see a doctor right away. Avoid makeup. While you may want to cover up your burn area to make sure people can't see it, don't do it. Chemicals in the makeup can irritate your injury, and even cause an infection. This will make the burn take longer to heal, and can lead to a bigger scar. Call a doctor. If your burn is turning into a scar, you can also talk to your doctor for advice on what to do next. The deeper the burn went into your face, the more likely it will develop into a scar. Your doctor will examine the burned area, see how large it is and how deep it goes. He will probably also check your body for other injuries, especially near the burn site. He may suggest further testing from a lab or with X-rays if he suspects further injury or infection. When you talk to your doctor, be sure to tell him how the burn happened, what symptoms you have been experiencing, what may have changed since you burned yourself, and any treatments you have used so far. Be prepared to also to discuss any underlying health conditions you have, like diabetes, that may have affected your recovery or potential treatment. Depending on what additional concerns your doctor has, you may be advised to use a variety of medications and treatments. For infections, you may be given intravenous antibiotics, or even a tetanus shot.	Turn off the curling iron. Identify the kind of burn you have. Cool the burn. Cover with a thin layer of aloe vera. Cover the burn with a bandage. Take pain relievers as you need them. Watch for signs of infection. Keep your skin hydrated. Stay out of the sun. Eat healthy. Don’t pick at scabs. Don’t break any blisters. Avoid makeup. Call a doctor.
https://www.wikihow.com/Give-Cats-Liquid-Medicine	How to Give Cats Liquid Medicine	To give your cat liquid medicine, start by wrapping a towel around its body so that it can't wiggle or escape as you give it the medication. Then, open you cat's mouth by gently pressing on the sides of its mouth with your thumb and forefinger. Next, angle its head back, place the tip of the syringe right behind your cat's lower fangs, and squeeze out about half a millimeter of the medicine. Once your cat swallows, squeeze out another half millimeter and continue the process until you've administered the full dose.	Lay out a towel. In the area where you plan to administer the medication, lay out a large clean towel. Unless your cat is very placid, you will use this later to wrap the cat up in order to keep it still and avoid being scratched. A full-sized beach or bath towel is ideal. Stretch the towel out so it is entirely flat. Work at a comfortable and convenient height, such as a table or countertop. Prepare the medication. Follow the instructions on the bottle or provided by your veterinarian to properly prepare the medication. In many cases, liquid medications will need to be shaken before each dosing. If the medication will be administered directly from the bottle, place it on a flat surface, easily within reach of your dosing area (i.e. the towel). Prepare the dropper. If your medication will be administered via dropper or syringe, load the syringe with the prescribed amount of medication. Follow all instructions and measure carefully. Put the dropper or syringe somewhere it can be easily reached from your dosing area. Position the cat. Gently carry your cat to your dosing area (i.e. the towel) and make sure your voice is soothing, happy, and relaxed. Place the cat in the middle of the towel, facing you. Immobilize the cat. At this point, you will need to ensure that the cat cannot wiggle or escape during the dosing. If your cat is very placid, it may be sufficient to hold it. If you have an assistant, he or she should place a hand on each of the cat's shoulders and gently grips the cat's upper forelegs. This keeps the cat still and stops it from lifting a front paw to scratch. You or the assistant can also cuddle the cat to your chest or stomach, to stop the cat backing away or wriggling sideways. If your cat is wiggly or likely to scratch you, you'll need to wrap the cat in the towel. Wrap your feline snugly, with just its head protruding. A snug fit around the neck ensures the claws are safely contained inside and cannot scratch you. To do this, fold one half of the towel over the cat's back and repeat with the opposite half so that the cat is contained within the towel. Take up any slack in the towel around its neck, so that its front legs are pinned against its body and contained within the towel. If you have an assistant, have him or her put their hands on the outside of the towel, over the cat's shoulders, to steady the animal. Open the cat's mouth. Form an inverted "C" shape with the forefinger and thumb of your left hand. Place this upside-down C over the cat's head. Your fingertip and thumb should be resting on either side of the corner of its mouth, with your palm resting on the cat's forehead. Gently press inwards with the fingertip and thumb, pressing the cat's upper lips over its upper cheek teeth (the molars). If you are left-handed, use your right hand to open the cat's mouth so your left hand is free to administer the medication. This approach forces the cat to open its mouth slightly in order to avoid biting its own lip, while also minimizing the likelihood that you will be bitten. Raise the cat's head. Once the cat has opened its mouth a little, angle its head upwards towards the ceiling. This can be done without shifting your left-hand grip, simply by rotating your wrist. Tipping its head upwards helps the lower jaw to drop down a little, opening the mouth wider. Place the syringe in the cat's mouth. Pick up the syringe in your free hand and rest the hub of the syringe (the open end) just behind the cat's lower fangs (the long teeth at the front of the lower jaw), angled over the tongue. Begin administering the medicine. Gently and slowly press the syringe's plunger so that about half a milliliter of fluid is dribbled into the cat's mouth. Once you have put medicine in the cat's mouth, it will move its tongue and try to swallow. Some cats like to lower their head to swallow, so you may need to relax your wrist so that her head can drop down to a more natural position for swallowing. Finish dosing the medicine. After the cat has had a chance to swallow, give it another half milliliter of medicine. Repeat this process until you have administered the full prescribed dose. Reward the cat. Talk soothingly to the cat as you slowly unwrap the towel. Most likely, the cat will run off as soon is it can, but if it doesn't give it some affection and maybe a tasty treat. Rewarding the cat after giving it medicine will make it less resentful and make the task easier next time.	Lay out a towel. Prepare the medication. Prepare the dropper. Position the cat. Immobilize the cat. Open the cat's mouth. Raise the cat's head. Place the syringe in the cat's mouth. Begin administering the medicine. Finish dosing the medicine. Reward the cat.
https://www.wikihow.com/Identify-Beetles	How to Identify Beetles	To identify a beetle, start by estimating its size and noting the color of its body. Then, examine the beetle's body to see if it's round, boxy, oval, tapered, or a different shape. Next, check the beetle for any long or unusually shaped legs and antennae, which could help you deduce what kind of beetle it is. Finally, look at the beetle's body to see if it has any texture or protrusions, like horns on its head. Once you've noted all of these characteristics, use them to research and narrow down what kind of beetle you're looking at.	Look for 2 hard wing coverings on the insect’s back. Beetles have wings, but they are covered by 2 hard wing coverings(elytra). This is what gives a beetle its distinctive hard-shelled look. The hardened wing coverings on a beetle's back are also the reason why a beetle will make a crunching sound if you accidentally step on one. If the insect is a beetle, its wings should not be visible unless the coverings are lifted up and the wings are extended. Check for chewing mouth parts on the underside of its head. Beetles have sharp mandibles (chewing mouthparts) so they can consume other insects, plant matter, fungus, and decaying plants and animals. Look at the underside of the insect's mouth to see if they have sharp-looking mouthparts. If the insect has a long, straw-like protrusion, then it is not a beetle. See if the insect has 6 legs. Beetles have 6 legs distributed between their front and back body segments. When they are in their larval stage, the legs are all on the front of a beetle's body. Otherwise, the legs are spread between the front and back segments. Count the insect's legs and check their location to determine if it is a beetle. If the insect has 4 legs, 8 legs, or more, then it is not a beetle. Identify a click beetle by a narrow, long body and a clicking sound. Click beetles, also known as Elateridae, can snap the front and back sections of its body together to make a clicking sound, and it can also use this motion to flip itself over if it gets stuck on its back. Click beetles are black or dark brown, and they have grooved sections running down their backs. An adult click beetle may be between 0.5 to 1.5 in (1.3 to 3.8 cm) long. This beetle is common all over the world and there are over 900 species of click beetles in North America alone. Watch for a fast moving beetle with a strong smell to spot a ground beetle. Ground beetles are black with grooves on their backs, and they produce a strong odor. They usually hang out under logs and leaves, but they may wander into your house through a crack or open window. These beetles move quickly, so it might be hard to get a close look. Keep in mind that these beetle are harmless. They eat other insects, but will not bite you or your pets. Check for longhorn beetles with long-antennae hanging out around dead trees. These are called longhorn beetles because their antennae are reminiscent of longhorn cattle. The antennae may be straight, curved, or half and half. Longhorn beetle coloring can range from black, brown, green, yellow, red, or a combination of these colors. There are 413 species of longhorn beetles in Texas alone, but they all share the distinguishing feature of long antennae. Inspect the head of the beetle for a scoop shape to see if it’s a mealworm. If the beetle has a rounded head with a scoop neck shape around the base of it, then it is most likely a mealworm. Despite the name, these are actually beetles. Mealworms usually live outdoors, but you may find them infesting containers of flour and other dried grains. Keep your grains in air-tight containers to prevent an infestation. Identify an oldhouse borer by white spots on its wings and enlarged leg segments. If you look closely at an oldhouse borer, you may notice small gray hairs on its back. You may also be able to make out 3 dark eyes on each side of the beetle's mouth. These beetles usually turn up in a house about 4 to 7 years after it has been built. Check for a black body with an elongated abdomen to identify a carpet beetle. This is most likely a black carpet beetle. These beetles are usually black or very dark brown and their bodies are oval shaped. They range in size from 0.12 to 0.19 inches (0.30 to 0.48 cm). Varied color carpet beetles are similar to black carpet beetles. These are very small (0.12 in (0.30 cm)) beetles with bright yellow and green markings. Look for green and black stripes on an elm beetle. These beetles are 0.25 in (0.64 cm) long. They feed on tree leaves, especially on elm tree leaves, and they lay their eggs on the undersides of leaves as well. Elm leaf beetles can damage trees if they get out of control, so you may need to manage them with pesticides. Identify ladybugs by a brightly-colored, rounded body and black spots. These are also known as lady beetles and in some countries, ladybirds. Their bodies may be yellow, orange, or red with black markings, but they can also be black with red, orange, or yellow markings. There are over 450 species of lady beetles in North America alone. Protect your ham from larger beetles. Larder beetles are black beetles that are known to infest cured ham. They have a whitish, silver streak running across their back and they are oval-shaped. Be sure to keep ham covered when it is out, and put it in the refrigerator to store it. Watch for cylindrical-shaped bark beetles around firewood. Bark beetles are only about 0.12 in (0.30 cm) and they are common around piles of firewood. Bark beetles may also infest live trees, which may die as a result of a bark beetle infestation. Bark beetle infestations create dry, dead wood, which intensifies forest fires. Identify drug store beetles by lines on the wing covers and a slightly bent head. The coloring of these beetles may range from brown to reddish brown, and they are around 0.1 to 0.14 in (0.25 to 0.36 cm) long. These beetles infest packaged food. If the head is so far bent over that the beetle has a hump, then it is likely a cigarette beetle. These are almost identical to drugstore beetles but they appear to be hunchbacked. Check for rust beetles with a rust-colored, flattened body with clubbed antennae. These are also known confused flour beetles. These beetles feed on corn flour and other packaged products. Make sure to keep your corn flour and other flours in air-tight containers to protect them from these pests. Inspect your rice and grains for long-beaked beetles called weevils. Weevils are only about 0.12 in (0.30 cm) and brown with a pointed head that resembles a beak. Their bodies are long and slender. Weevil infestations in rice and other grains are common. These pests can chew right through paper and plastic, so it is best to keep any loose grains and flour in air-tight glass, metal, or hard plastic containers. Look for protrusions on the sides of a saw-toothed beetle’s thorax. These beetles are only about 0.12 in (0.30 cm) long. Their favorite foods to infest and eat are sunflower seeds and nuts, but they can also infest large quantities of grains. Sawtoothed grain beetles are more likely to get into the food supply if the bins are not sanitized at least every 6 months.	Look for 2 hard wing coverings on the insect’s back. Check for chewing mouth parts on the underside of its head. See if the insect has 6 legs. Identify a click beetle by a narrow, long body and a clicking sound. Watch for a fast moving beetle with a strong smell to spot a ground beetle. Check for longhorn beetles with long-antennae hanging out around dead trees. Inspect the head of the beetle for a scoop shape to see if it’s a mealworm. Identify an oldhouse borer by white spots on its wings and enlarged leg segments. Check for a black body with an elongated abdomen to identify a carpet beetle. Look for green and black stripes on an elm beetle. Identify ladybugs by a brightly-colored, rounded body and black spots. Protect your ham from larger beetles. Watch for cylindrical-shaped bark beetles around firewood. Identify drug store beetles by lines on the wing covers and a slightly bent head. Check for rust beetles with a rust-colored, flattened body with clubbed antennae. Inspect your rice and grains for long-beaked beetles called weevils. Look for protrusions on the sides of a saw-toothed beetle’s thorax.
https://www.wikihow.com/Relieve-Foot-Pain-from-Standing-All-Day	How to Relieve Foot Pain from Standing All Day	If you have foot pain from standing all day, there are a few simple ways to get relief. Soak your feet in a tub or foot spa of warm water for 20 to 30 minutes. Try adding some bath salts to help you relax and cleanse your feet. You can also give yourself a foot massage to relieve your sore muscles. Use your thumbs to rub the balls of your feet, heels, and toes in circular motions. If you have heel pain, sit in a chair and roll your feet back and forth on a round object, like a water bottle, can of soup, or a foot roller. To stretch your feet and Achilles' tendons, sit down with your legs stretched in front of you. Then, place a towel around one foot and gently pull the towel towards you for 30 seconds. Try 3 sets for each foot.	Soak your feet in warm water for pain relief without medication. Fill a small tub with warm water or use a foot spa meant for that purpose. Add in bath salts, such as Epsom salt, or another type of foot soak if you'd like, then rest your feet in the water for 20-30 minutes. The warm water may help relieve pain. Avoid foot soaking if you have diabetes. As a diabetic, you're more likely to develop foot problems and infections. Try ice if you have a foot injury or your foot is inflamed. Ice can be helpful if your foot is inflamed or injured. Your skin will likely be warm to the touch if it's inflamed. Wrap ice in a washcloth or other thin cloth and place it on your feet for 15-20 minutes. You can repeat this process 2-3 times a day as needed. Never place ice directly on your skin, as that can lead to frostbite. Give yourself a foot massage to relieve sore muscles. Sit down and bring 1 foot up on the other knee. Pour a dollop of lotion into your hands and then rub your foot down, massaging the ball, heel, and toes. Use your thumbs to press deeper into your foot muscles, rubbing them with a circular motion. Gently move your toes back and forth with your fingers to stretch the muscles. Repeat with the other foot. If you have someone willing, you can even ask them to massage your feet! Take NSAIDs to help with inflammation and relieve pain. NSAIDs include pain relievers like aspirin, ibuprofen, and naproxen sodium. They can help with pain relief, particularly if your feet are slightly swollen after standing on them all day. Talk to your doctor about which NSAIDs are right for you. If over-the-counter versions aren't enough, discuss prescription options. Always read the bottle for the recommended dosages. Try oral analgesics if you can't take NSAIDs for pain. Analgesics are solely pain medications. They don't help with inflammation, but they can provide relief, particularly if you can't take NSAIDs for medical reasons. Check the bottle for recommended dosages. Acetaminophen is a common over-the-counter pain medication. Don't mix it with alcohol. Also, be aware that this medication is in many over-the-counter medication mixes, such as cold-relief drugs. Always check the bottles so you don't overdose on acetaminophen. Don't exceed 4,000 milligrams of acetaminophen in 24 hours, and avoid using it longer than 3 days in a row. Rub in a topical analgesic for quick pain relief. These medications work in different ways. Some have pain relievers in them, such as the ingredient found in aspirin. Some distract your feet with a different sensation, such as the ones that cool your feet with menthol or eucalyptus. Others create a slight burning sensation that dulls the pain. You can find these at your local drugstore. Use a towel to stretch your feet and Achilles' tendon. Sit on the floor or the bed with your legs out in front of you. Place a towel or large band around 1 foot, aiming for the ball of your foot. Pull the towel towards you to stretch out the muscles in your foot. Hold this position for 30 seconds then repeat on the other side. Try doing 3 sets of this exercise. Roll your feet over a round object to help with heel pain. Sit down in a chair and place a round object under your foot, such as a foot roller, water bottle, or even a can of soup. Place your arch on the object for a few seconds, pressing down lightly, then roll your arch over the object, going forward and back. Keep rolling back and forth for about a minute. Switch to the other foot when you're done. Strengthen your feet with a toe-towel pickup. While sitting in a chair, place a washcloth under your foot. Try to pick up the towel with just your toes. Leave your heel on the ground while you do so. You're just lifting your toes to pick up the washcloth off the ground 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5.1 cm) Once you've picked the washcloth up, release it and pick it up again, aiming for at least 10 times with each foot. This exercise will also increase flexibility. Work your calf and foot muscles with a wall push. Stand up and face the wall. Position yourself about 1 foot (30 cm) away from the wall with your feet shoulder-width apart. Put your hands on the wall and step back with one leg, straightening it out as you do. Bend the knee on your front leg a little until you feel the calf muscle stretch out in the other leg. Straighten the front leg again and repeat the exercise 10 times on each side. You can also step forward slightly with your front leg, which will bend your back leg a little. Balance your weight on both feet. If you lean to one side or the other, you may get poor circulation in your feet, causing more pain and stiffness. Ask your boss if it's okay for you to move things on the floor, such as cords or small rugs, so you're standing on flat ground. Also, check your balance throughout the day to make sure you're positioning your weight on both feet. Try compression hose or socks if you have swelling. These types of socks and hose provide extra support to your ankles. They fit tightly around your feet, and they can help prevent achiness as well. You can find these at drugstores, online, or at medical supply stores. Cut down on friction with 2 pairs of socks. If you have trouble with blisters, doubling up on socks may be the solution. It provides you with extra cushioning, which can reduce your chances of developing blisters. You may need to go a size up for your second pair of socks so they'll fit better over the first pair of socks. If you do want to double up on socks, always try on shoes with double socks to see how they fit. Stand on a padded mat if you’re standing in one place to take pressure off your feet. These mats are also called anti-fatigue mats, and they cover large areas of the floor. They provide cushioning for your feet and legs, which will provide you with some relief over a long day. If you don't have a padded mat at work, ask your boss if you can get one. You might say, "Can I speak to you for a minute? I was wondering if you'd consider putting in anti-fatigue mats behind the counter. They don't cost very much and they prevent your employees from tiring out so quickly because they provide cushioning. That means we can work harder for you!" Get measured for shoes to ensure you choose the right size. Even if you've been measured in the past, it's a good idea to get measured again. Your feet can change over time, and if you're buying the same shoe size you always have, then you could be hurting your feet more. Go to a shoe store that specializes in measuring feet and finding the correct fit. Try to get measured annually for shoes. Some chiropractors and osteopaths may have a selection of special shoes to help you with your support. Try shoes on before buying them to make sure they fit well. Always put shoes on and walk around in them at the store before buying them. Make sure they aren't scrunching your toes and that you have 0.25 to 0.5 inches (0.64 to 1.27 cm) of room between your toes and the end of the shoe. Shop for shoes after a day of work. Your feet swell throughout the day, so you want shoes that will still fit comfortably at the end of the day. Once you buy a pair, it's a good idea to walk around in them for a bit before trying to work in them. That way, you can see if they are painful or if they rub in a particular spot. Find shoes that support high arches if you have them. High arches can cause you pain if your feet aren't properly supported. When visiting a shoe store, as the clerk to help you find shoes with high arches, and you should have less pain when you wear them. To check if the shoe will support your arch, take the insole out of the shoe, if possible, and hold it up to your foot. If it matches the contours of your foot, it's likely a good fit. If not, you may need to get another pair. If you don't want to buy new shoes, look for shoe inserts made for people with high arches. Buy new insoles to customize the fit of the shoe to your feet. If you find your shoe isn't as comfortable as you'd like, insoles can help with that issue. They can lift the heels, for instance, or provide more padding as needed. Some stores even offer machines that will read your feet so you can buy the best insole for your feet. If you don't have access to a machine that reads your feet, look at the bottom of your shoes. If you have a normal gait, they should be worn in the middle of your heel and the middle of the ball of your foot. If they're worn more to the outer edge or more to the inner edge, find insoles that will help correct that issue. You can find insoles online, in drug stores, or in some shoe stores. Consult with a podiatrist if you think you'd benefit from custom-fitted shoes. While insoles can help, if you still have a lot of pain, you may need shoes that have been made just for you. That way, they will support you in all the right ways without creating pressure points.	Soak your feet in warm water for pain relief without medication. Try ice if you have a foot injury or your foot is inflamed. Give yourself a foot massage to relieve sore muscles. Take NSAIDs to help with inflammation and relieve pain. Try oral analgesics if you can't take NSAIDs for pain. Rub in a topical analgesic for quick pain relief. Use a towel to stretch your feet and Achilles' tendon. Roll your feet over a round object to help with heel pain. Strengthen your feet with a toe-towel pickup. Work your calf and foot muscles with a wall push. Balance your weight on both feet. Try compression hose or socks if you have swelling. Cut down on friction with 2 pairs of socks. Stand on a padded mat if you’re standing in one place to take pressure off your feet. Get measured for shoes to ensure you choose the right size. Try shoes on before buying them to make sure they fit well. Find shoes that support high arches if you have them. Buy new insoles to customize the fit of the shoe to your feet. Consult with a podiatrist if you think you'd benefit from custom-fitted shoes.
https://www.wikihow.com/Change-a-Statement-to-Question	How to Change a Statement to Question	To change a statement to a question, first look for the helping verb in the sentence, like “Have,” “Would,” “Can,” or “Was.” Then, move the helping verb to the front of the sentence and add a question mark at the end. For example, “I was standing,” becomes, “Was I standing?” For sentences with longer helping verbs, like “could have been,” only move 1 helping word. For instance, in “I could have been studying,” move the “Could,” to the beginning to make it, “Could I have been studying?” In some cases, you may need to use "Do" or "Does" at the beginning, like “He cleans the bedroom,” which becomes, “Does he clean the bedroom?”	Look for a helping verb in the sentence. Common helping verbs include have, has, and had. Additionally, words like “should,” “would,” “could,” “might,” “may,” and “will” are helping verbs. Re-read the sentence to see if it has any helping verbs. Here are examples of sentences with the helping verb bolded: The teachers have treated us kindly. They had already eaten. She will win the fight. My cat would climb that tree. A pie can feed eight people. We shall meet again. I was standing. Move the helping verb to the front of the sentence to make a question. Rewrite the sentence with the helping verb as the first word. Leave the other words in the same place and write them exactly as they appear in the statement. This will turn your statement into a question. Here are some examples: The teachers have treated us kindly. → Have the teachers treated us kindly? They had already eaten. → Had they already eaten? She will win the fight. → Will she win the fight? My cat would climb that tree. → Would my cat climb that tree? That pie can feed eight people. → Can that pie feed eight people? We shall meet again. → Shall we meet again? I was standing. → Was I standing? Use the first helping verb if the sentence has more than 1 helping verb. Sometimes you'll have a sentence that includes more than 1 helping verb to describe an action. For instance, you might say “will have taken” or “could have been.” In this case, only move the first helping verb to the front of the sentence. Leave the remaining words where they are. Look at these examples: Your brother has been growing quickly. → Has your brother been growing quickly? I could have been studying. → Could I have been studying? Look for a being verb in the sentence. Being verbs are the “be” verbs, such as “am,” “is,” “are,” were,” and “was.” These verbs tell you a person's current state or what they are doing. Check the sentence to see if it has a being verb. Here are some example sentences with the being verb bolded: It is raining. We are hungry. I am going home. You were there last night. The cat was playing with that toy. Move the being verb to the beginning of the sentence to form a question. Rewrite the sentence with the being verb at the beginning. Don't change any other words in the sentence. This will change the statement into a question. Look at these examples: It is raining. → Is it raining? We are hungry. → Are we hungry? I am going home. → Am I going home? You were there last night. → Were you there last night? The cat was playing with that toy. → Was the cat playing with that toy? Look for a helping verb if you see the word “been. ” The word “been” is a being verb, but it's typically used with a helping verb. Don't move “been” to the beginning of a sentence to form a question. Use the helping verb instead of “been.” For example, the word “been” appears in this sentence: “We have been going to school for ten weeks.” Notice that “have” is used here as a helping verb. That means you'd form a question by writing, “ Have we been going to school for ten weeks?” Add “does” to the beginning of the sentence if the verb is present tense. Check to see if the subject of your sentence is singular. Then, make sure the verb is present tense. If both of these are true, add the word “does” to the beginning of the sentence to turn it into a question. Then, change the verb back to its base form by dropping “s” from the end. My cat plays with a toy. → Does my cat play with the toy? My friend takes the bus. → Does my friend take the bus? Use "do" for plural subjects or "you. ” Look at the subject to see if it's plural or “you,” then check to see if the verb is present tense. If so, add the word “do” at the beginning of the sentence to change the statement to a sentence. They greet their teacher. → Do they greet their teacher? The protesters call for change. → Do the protesters call for change? You throw stones at my window. → Do you throw stones at my window? Put "did" at the front of the sentence for simple past tense verbs. Check to see if your verb is in the past tense. If it is, use the word “did” to transform the statement into a question, whether the subject is singular or plural. Add the word “did” at the beginning of the sentence and change the verb back to its base, present tense form. He saved the cat. → Did he save the cat? The sheep jumped over the fence. → Did the sheep jump over the fence? He broke my oven. → Did he break my oven? Add a question word to the start of a question to make it more specific. Question words include “who,” “what,” “where,” “why,” “when,” and “how.” Use these words when you want the answer to your question to include specific details. First, change the statement into a question using a helping verb, being verb, or doing verb. Then, add a question word to the beginning of the question to make it more specific. You are going home. → When are you going home? The cat caught the mouse. → How did the cat catch the mouse? Use a question tag to easily form a yes/no question. Question tags go at the end of a statement to turn it into a question. Make a question tag using the word “right,” a helping verb, or a being verb. To turn the statement into a question, put a comma, then add the question tag. Leave the rest of the sentence the same. Here are some examples: She bought a new scooter. → She bought a new scooter, right? He was at the party. → He was at the party, wasn't he? They went to the store yesterday. → They went to the store yesterday, didn't they? Add a question mark to a statement to express disbelief. Adding a question mark at the end of a statement instantly turns it into a question. Change the period to a question mark when you are confused about what is happening. Typically, these questions have a “yes” or “no” answer. Here are some examples: You are going home. → You are going home? She's a scientist. → She's a scientist? We have school tomorrow. → We have school tomorrow?	Look for a helping verb in the sentence. Move the helping verb to the front of the sentence to make a question. Use the first helping verb if the sentence has more than 1 helping verb. Look for a being verb in the sentence. Move the being verb to the beginning of the sentence to form a question. Look for a helping verb if you see the word “been. Add “does” to the beginning of the sentence if the verb is present tense. Use "do" for plural subjects or "you. Put "did" at the front of the sentence for simple past tense verbs. Add a question word to the start of a question to make it more specific. Use a question tag to easily form a yes/no question. Add a question mark to a statement to express disbelief.
https://www.wikihow.com/Make-Almond-Milk-Taste-Better	How to Make Almond Milk Taste Better	If you're not the biggest fan of almond milk, you can make it taste better with a few flavorings. Try adding maple syrup, honey, agave nectar, or granulated sugar to sweeten your almond milk. Mix in 1 tablespoon of sweetener for every 4 cups of milk. You can also stir in 2 tablespoons of cocoa powder or 1 tablespoon of vanilla extract for every 4 cups to flavor the milk. For a healthier option, add some sliced fruit to the milk and blend it together. Then, strain the mixture through a cheesecloth to get rid of any leftover pulp or seeds. Store it in the fridge in an airtight container for up to 3 days.	Buy plain or unsweetened almond milk, if you are going to flavor it yourself. Commercially-made chocolate or vanilla almond milk is usually fairly high in sugar content, containing more than 20 g (1.7 tbsp.) of sugar per serving. Sweeten almond milk with maple syrup, honey, agave nectar or granulated sugar. Stir in 1 tbsp. (12 g or 14.8 ml) of the sweetener for every 4 cups (0.95 l) of unsweetened almond milk. Stir very well, until the granules dissolve. Add more, if desired. Add 1 of the following flavorings to your milk, according to the flavor you prefer. Flavoring should be done to taste, starting with the measurements below. You can measure enough flavoring to mask the taste of the almond milk altogether or simply to enhance it. Pour in 1 tsp. (4.9 ml) of vanilla extract for every 4 cups (0.95 l) of almond milk. Double the amount if you prefer a strong vanilla taste. Stir well. Create a stronger almond taste by adding almond extract. Pour in 1 tsp. (4.9 ml) of almond extract for every 4 cups (0.95 l) of almond milk. Stir well. Add 1 tbsp. of sugar or agave syrup and 2 tbsp. (14 g) of cocoa powder to 4 cups (0.95 l) of unsweetened almond milk to create chocolate almond milk. Add a pinch of salt. Stir well, until everything has dissolved. Withhold the sugar if you are using plain, sweetened almond milk. Add 1 tbsp. of sugar or agave syrup, 1/2 tsp. (1.3 g) of cinnamon, 1/4 tsp. (0.5 g) of nutmeg and 1/8 tsp. (0.25 g) of cloves to 4 cups (0.95 l) of unsweetened almond milk to create chai almond milk. Do not add the sugar if you are using sweetened almond milk. Stir well. The longer you allow the spices to sit in the milk before drinking, the stronger the taste will be. Pour 4 cups (0.95 l) of unsweetened almond milk into a blender. Add 2 cups (approximately 150 to 300 g) of sliced fruit to unsweetened almond milk. Strawberries, mango, raspberries, blueberries and peaches work well with this recipe. Remove the seeds or pits from the fruit before adding. Add 2 to 4 tbsp. (30 to 50 ml) of agave syrup or honey into the mixture. Add a pinch of salt, cover the blender and run it on high for 2 minutes. Strain the resulting milk through a cheesecloth and into a bowl. This will remove any seeds or pulp from the fruit. Store the milk in airtight containers in the refrigerator for up to 3 days. Pour 1 to 2 cups (237 to 473 ml) of almond milk into a glass jar. Glass canning jars work well for this purpose. Fill the container to the top to minimize the amount of oxygen in the container. Add 1 of the following ingredients to your jar before sealing it. Break up 3 cinnamon sticks and immerse them in the milk. Bruise 1/4 cup (67 g) of fresh mint by rolling it between your fingers. Place it in the milk and stir it. Bruise 1/4 cup (67 g) of rose petals by rolling them between your fingers. Place them directly in the milk and stir them. Scrape the seeds from 1 vanilla bean into the milk. Stir them well. Cover the milk jars so that they are airtight. Place them in the refrigerator for 1 day. Remove them and remove the plant or spice particles by pouring the milk through a metal strainer. Scented almond milk will have a mild flavor of the plant or spice. The act of breathing in the scent can make the taste of the milk more pleasing. These milks are great to use on desserts, granola or in smoothies and shakes. You can also add honey or agave syrup to create a sweeter flavor in your scented milk.	Buy plain or unsweetened almond milk, if you are going to flavor it yourself. Sweeten almond milk with maple syrup, honey, agave nectar or granulated sugar. Add 1 of the following flavorings to your milk, according to the flavor you prefer. Pour 4 cups (0.95 l) of unsweetened almond milk into a blender. Add 2 cups (approximately 150 to 300 g) of sliced fruit to unsweetened almond milk. Add 2 to 4 tbsp. Add a pinch of salt, cover the blender and run it on high for 2 minutes. Strain the resulting milk through a cheesecloth and into a bowl. Store the milk in airtight containers in the refrigerator for up to 3 days. Pour 1 to 2 cups (237 to 473 ml) of almond milk into a glass jar. Add 1 of the following ingredients to your jar before sealing it. Cover the milk jars so that they are airtight. Place them in the refrigerator for 1 day.
https://www.wikihow.com/Clean-Woodwork	How to Clean Woodwork	If you need to clean woodwork, wipe down the surface with a clean cloth to remove any dust, then spray or pour a commercial wood cleaner onto the cloth. If you prefer an all-natural clean, use vinegar instead of a commercial cleaner. Gently rub the cloth in a circular motion over the surface of the woodwork, applying more cleaner if you need to. If there are any grooves or carvings that you can't reach with the cloth, or if there are stubborn spots of dirt, scrub the area a toothbrush until it's clean. Once it's clean, let the woodwork air dry.	Dust the woodwork. Go over the woodwork with a dusting cloth, duster, or a hose attachment on a vacuum cleaner to remove dust. Make sure to dust in the direction of the grain. Dusting before cleaning assures that the dust is removed rather than shifted around while cleaning with a product. You can clean with any type of cloth, but microfiber cloths grab onto dust the best. Choose a cleaner. There are plenty of cleaners on the market made specifically for cleaning woodwork and/or other household items. You might choose to buy a cleaner instead of making one to ensure that you don't damage the wood with the wrong type of cleaning solution. You can choose a spray or liquid cleaner. A few well known wood cleaning products are Magic Cabinet and Wood Cleaner, Murphy's Oil Soap, and Method All-Purpose Spray. You can purchase a cleaner at a home improvement store or most supermarkets. Put the cleaner onto a cloth. You can spray or put the cleaner onto a cloth. If using a spray, it is also an option to spray the solution directly onto the wooden surface. You should only need to use a few drops or few sprays of solution, but you should consult the directions on the bottle just in case. You can use a cloth, microfiber cloth, sponge, paper towel, or rag. Although the cleaner should be okay, test it on a small spot of the woodwork to be sure. Clean the woodwork. Once you have the cleaner on the cloth or surface, begin gently rubbing it over the woodwork. Rub it into the woodwork in small, circular motions. Make sure you cover every surface, edge, or cranny of the woodwork. Apply more cleaner if you run out while cleaning. Stop when you are satisfied with result. If you are cleaning items cabinets or doors, don't forget to clean the sides that are not in front of you. You can wear cotton or rubber gloves while cleaning if you are worried about skin irritation. Go back with a toothbrush if necessary. If there are small spots or buildups leftover, you can take a toothbrush and scrub the spot with cleaner or soap diluted with water. Scrub until there are no spots leftover and then go over the surface once more with the cloth. Allow the surface to dry. It shouldn't be necessary to wash the surface off with water once cleaner has been used on it. The woodwork should take only a few minutes to dry. Use white distilled vinegar. Pour a half cup of vinegar into a bucket. Add a gallon of warm water to the bucket. You may want to double this amount if you will be cleaning a lot of woodwork or cleaning large surfaces. You can add 2 tablespoons of almond or coconut oil and 10 drops of lemon or orange essential oils into the bucket for a better smell once you have finished cleaning. Keep the solution in a bucket, or pour it into a spray bottle. Make sure you are using the right type of vinegar. Vinegars, like cider vinegar, can damage the woodwork. Test a spot of solution of the woodwork before cleaning to be sure. Vinegar can leave behind a strong smell that lasts for a while. That is why essential oils are used to provide a better smell. Dip a cloth into the solution. If you are using a spray bottle, then spray a few sprays of the solution onto a cloth or directly onto the woodwork. If you decide to keep the cleaner in a bucket, dip the cloth you are using into the bucket. Make sure to wring the rag out thoroughly before washing. It is important to ring out the cloth before cleaning because excess water can damage the woodwork if it penetrates the finish. You can use a cloth or rag to clean. A sponge can be used, but it retains water, which could damage the wood. Clean the surface. Take the cloth and wipe it in a circular motion over the woodwork. It should be moist rather than sopping wet. Clean over every surface, corner, or edge. Put the rag back into the bucket and rinse it out anytime it becomes dirty. Clean until you are satisfied with the outcome. You can keep a bucket with the cleaning solution next to you even if you are using a spray bottle. Buff the surface. Get a fresh, clean cloth that you have not yet used to clean the woodwork. Buff in a circular motion over all of the woodwork. This removes any excess moisture that can cause damage. Try to get the surface as dry as possible. If you see still see a spot, repeat the cleaning and buffing process until the woodwork is as clean as you desire. If you clean again, make sure to buff the surface again and allow it to dry. Use dishwashing detergent. Chances are, you already have dishwashing detergent around your home. If not, buy any brand of dishwashing detergent from a supermarket. Look for a mild detergent. Mix one cup of detergent with two cups of water in a bucket, or double that amount if you will be cleaning many or large surfaces. A few brands that offer mild detergents are Ajax, Dawn, and Palmolive. A mild detergent will lather when mixed with water. This method works best on woodwork that has been painted, enameled, or varnished. Detergent may turn lacquer and shellac white as they absorb water. Put the rag into the detergent. Use a rag or cloth and dip it into the bucket. Wring the rag out to remove excess water. Excess water soaks into the surface and causes damage. The rag should be moist when you have finished wringing it out. Make sure to test the detergent on a small, hidden part of the woodwork. If it mars the surface, try another method of cleaning. Rub the cleaner over the surface of the woodwork. Rub the moist rag over the surface of the woodwork. You can rub in small, gentle circles, but avoid rough scrubbing. The detergent needs time to break down the grease and wax. Allow a few minutes for the cleaner to set on the woodwork. Re-wipe the surface once it has sat with the same cloth. Do not allow the detergent to sit for too long, or excess water will soak into the wood. Wipe with a clean cloth. Take a clean cloth that has not exposed to the cleaner and run some water over it. Wring it out until it is damp. Use the cloth to wipe the surface. This removes the detergent from the woodwork. Then, take a dry paper towel or cloth and wipe the damp surface until it is dry. You should completely dry the woodwork on your own rather than leaving it to dry.	Dust the woodwork. Choose a cleaner. Put the cleaner onto a cloth. Clean the woodwork. Go back with a toothbrush if necessary. Use white distilled vinegar. Dip a cloth into the solution. Clean the surface. Buff the surface. Use dishwashing detergent. Put the rag into the detergent. Rub the cleaner over the surface of the woodwork. Wipe with a clean cloth.
https://www.wikihow.com/Draw-Cute-Animals	How to Draw Cute Animals	To draw cute animals, make their eyes bigger and rounder than you normally would since it will make the animals look cuter. Also, draw small, button noses, and use 2 small curves to draw each mouth so it looks like your animals are smiling. You should also give your animals cute, rounded ears, as well as tiny narrow legs.	Draw a square. Add a crossed line at the center. Draw a rectangle on the right bottom side of the square. Draw the four legs of the tiger using small sharp angles. Add the tail at left upper corner of your rectangle. Draw the ears using small triangles. Add the eyes using two small darkened circles. Leave a small white circular portion of the eye for the light's reflection. Draw the nose using an inverted triangle. Draw the mouth using two small curves and add three horizontal lines on each side of the cheek for the whiskers. Draw patterns on the tiger’s body. You can use small triangles for the pattern. Erase unnecessary lines. Color your drawing. Draw a square. Add a crossed line at the center. Draw a rectangle on the left bottom side of the square. Draw the four legs of the lion using small sharp angles. Add the tail at left upper corner of your rectangle. Draw the ears using small triangles. Add the eyes using two small darkened circles. Leave a small white circular portion of the eye for the light's reflection. Draw the nose using an inverted triangle. Draw the mouth using two small curves and add three horizontal lines on each side of the cheek for the whiskers. Draw the hair of the lion using small curved strokes. Make it look thick and furry. Erase unnecessary lines. Color your drawing.	Draw a square. Draw a rectangle on the right bottom side of the square. Draw the four legs of the tiger using small sharp angles. Draw the ears using small triangles. Draw patterns on the tiger’s body. Erase unnecessary lines. Color your drawing. Draw a square. Draw a rectangle on the left bottom side of the square. Draw the four legs of the lion using small sharp angles. Draw the ears using small triangles. Draw the hair of the lion using small curved strokes. Erase unnecessary lines. Color your drawing.
https://www.wikihow.com/Make-Salsa	How to Make Salsa	To make salsa, first add 1 28-ounce (800-gram) can of whole tomatoes to a blender or food processor. Then, add ½ cup (25 grams) of chopped cilantro and ¼ cup (35 grams) of chopped onion. Next, place 1 minced garlic clove and 1 chopped jalapeño in the blender, and sprinkle 1/2 teaspoon (2 grams) each of cumin and salt over all of the ingredients. Add the juice from half of a lime too for even more flavor. Finally, pulse everything together 4 to 6 times or until the salsa is the consistency you'd like. Refrigerate for 1 hour, then enjoy! If you want to make salsa with fresh tomatoes instead of canned ones, just add 3 cups (375 grams) of chopped Roma tomatoes to the blender in place of the canned tomatoes. Add the other ingredients, pulse everything 4 to 6 times, and you're done!	Know how to prepare fresh chili peppers. If using fresh chili peppers in the salsa, knowing how to peel them is an important part of the preparation process. There are two basic methods, one for those who have access to a gas flame and one for those who only have an electrical heat source. In both cases, be aware that the fumes from heated chilies can irritate your lungs, so do not inhale. Peel the chili peppers over the gas burner: Spear the chili peppers onto a long metal skewer. Turn on a gas burner flame and roast them over the flame. When the skins to blister and darken, remove them. Don't allow them to burn. Dry fry the chili peppers in a griddle pan. When the skins become scorched and blackened, remove the chilies. For both heated chili peppers, now place them into a plastic bag. Tie the bag up to trap the steam. Put the bag aside for 20 minutes. After 20 minutes, take the chilies out of the bag and peel off the skin. The capsaicin in chili peppers can irritate your skin and eyes badly. Do not absent-mindedly wipe your eyes or pick your nose with your chili pepper covered fingers! Wash your hands with soap and water after finishing handling the chili peppers, or wear gloves. To finish preparing the chili peppers, slit the peeled chilies open and scrape out the seeds. Chop up the chili peppers into small diced pieces and put to one side in a small bowl, ready for use. Assemble the ingredients and items needed to make the salsa. Decide how hot you'd like the salsa to be. For a medium heat, use 3 chili peppers or use 6 chili peppers for a hot one. The method for preparation of the chilies is outlined above. Prepare the tomatoes. Chop the onion finely and add it to a bowl with the lime juice and rind. The purpose of doing this is to soften the onion in readiness for adding to the salsa. Peel the tomatoes. Cut a small cross on the base of each tomato. Place the tomatoes into a heatproof bowl. Pour boiling hot water over the tomatoes and leave them to soak for 30 seconds. Remove the tomatoes and plunge them into a bowl of cold water. Drain well, then peel off the skins. Dice the peeled tomatoes. Place the pieces into the salsa bowl. Add the soaked chopped onion and any lime juice and rind left. Chop the cilantro (fresh coriander) finely. Add this chopped cilantro to the salsa mixture. Add the diced chili peppers and the sugar. Mix everything together gently until you see the sugar dissolve. Aim to coat everything with the lime juice. Cover the salsa bowl. Place it into the refrigerator to chill and marinate for 2–3 hours. This will give the flavors time to blend well. Before serving, throw a few lime rind pieces on top to garnish. Serve with tortillas, corn chips, beans or rice. Assemble the ingredients and items needed to make the salsa. Prepare the jalapeño pepper as outlined above. Simply chop the canned chilies. Milder salsa can be made by substituting sweet peppers for the jalapeño and chili peppers. Hotter salsa can be made by increasing the peppers and adding a finely chopped habanero pepper. Cut the tomatoes. Remove the seeds and then add the diced pieces to the salsa bowl. Chop the onion into small pieces. Chop the cilantro (fresh coriander). Mix all of the chopped ingredients together. Add the crushed garlic clove, salt and pepper. Mix through. Pour over the lime juice. Mix well. Serve. This can either be chilled as outlined in the traditional salsa method above, or eaten straight away if you can't wait. It's delicious over enchiladas or tacos, or as a snack with tortilla chips. Assemble the ingredients and items needed to make the salsa. Place the tomatoes, garlic and cilantro (coriander) into a blender or food processor. Process until the ingredients become smooth. Add the onion, adobo marinade and sugar. Add the lime juice and salt (to taste). If you're using the cinnamon, allspice or cumin, add these now. Serve. This salsa is ready to serve immediately. If not cover it up and chill until it is ready to be served, remembering that it is best served fresh. Assemble the ingredients and items needed to make the salsa. Combine all of the ingredients in a large bowl. Add salt to taste (optional). Cover the bowl. Place in the refrigerator to chill until needed. Serve. This serves about 4-6 people and goes well with a meal needing a sweet, hot touch as a condiment. Assemble the ingredients and items needed to make the salsa. Chop the fresh parsley, basil, mint, chervil and tarragon. Chop the capers and cornichons roughly. However, if you find the capers are really small, there is no need to chop them. Put all the chopped ingredients into the salsa bowl. Add the chives, spring onion/scallions, oil, mustard and lemon zest. Mix well but gently. Stir in the lemon juice at the end. Season to taste. Leave to sit for at least 30 minutes at room temperature. This allows the flavors to develop. Serve. Give the salsa a last stir before serving. This goes well with poached or grilled meats and fish. Assemble the ingredients and items needed to make the salsa. Prepare the chilies as outlined above. Put the onions into the cooking pan. Add the tomatoes and sugar. Cook over a medium heat until thickened. Stir regularly. Remove from the heat. Add the garlic, cinnamon, cloves, cumin, lemon juice, olive oil and prepared chilies. Season to taste and leave to cool. Serve. Once cooled, it's ready to serve. Garnish with the lemon rind lengths. Try a few more salsas to continue your salsa journey of discovery. Here are a few more suggestions: Corn salsa Barbecued corn salsa Cabbage salsa Black bean salsa Banana salsa Watermelon salsa Strawberry salsa Coco kiwi mango salsa with cinnamon crisps Paw paw and mango salsa.	Know how to prepare fresh chili peppers. Peel the chili peppers over the gas burner: Dry fry the chili peppers in a griddle pan. For both heated chili peppers, now place them into a plastic bag. After 20 minutes, take the chilies out of the bag and peel off the skin. To finish preparing the chili peppers, slit the peeled chilies open and scrape out the seeds. Chop up the chili peppers into small diced pieces and put to one side in a small bowl, ready for use. Assemble the ingredients and items needed to make the salsa. Decide how hot you'd like the salsa to be. Prepare the tomatoes. Peel the tomatoes. Dice the peeled tomatoes. Add the soaked chopped onion and any lime juice and rind left. Chop the cilantro (fresh coriander) finely. Add the diced chili peppers and the sugar. Mix everything together gently until you see the sugar dissolve. Cover the salsa bowl. Before serving, throw a few lime rind pieces on top to garnish. Assemble the ingredients and items needed to make the salsa. Prepare the jalapeño pepper as outlined above. Cut the tomatoes. Chop the onion into small pieces. Chop the cilantro (fresh coriander). Mix all of the chopped ingredients together. Add the crushed garlic clove, salt and pepper. Pour over the lime juice. Serve. Assemble the ingredients and items needed to make the salsa. Place the tomatoes, garlic and cilantro (coriander) into a blender or food processor. Process until the ingredients become smooth. Add the lime juice and salt (to taste). Serve. Assemble the ingredients and items needed to make the salsa. Combine all of the ingredients in a large bowl. Cover the bowl. Serve. Assemble the ingredients and items needed to make the salsa. Chop the fresh parsley, basil, mint, chervil and tarragon. Chop the capers and cornichons roughly. Put all the chopped ingredients into the salsa bowl. Add the chives, spring onion/scallions, oil, mustard and lemon zest. Stir in the lemon juice at the end. Leave to sit for at least 30 minutes at room temperature. Serve. Assemble the ingredients and items needed to make the salsa. Prepare the chilies as outlined above. Put the onions into the cooking pan. Remove from the heat. Serve. Try a few more salsas to continue your salsa journey of discovery.
https://www.wikihow.com/Get-Squeaks-Out-of-Air-Jordan-Sneakers	How to Get Squeaks Out of Air Jordan Sneakers	To get squeaks out of Air Jordan sneakers, start by walking or placing pressure on different parts of the shoe to locate where the squeak is coming from. If the squeaking is coming from the insole, take out the shoelaces and remove the insole. Sprinkle baby powder inside the shoe and leave it there overnight. Then, shake out the excess powder in the morning and check to see if the shoes are still squeaking. Alternatively, try spraying a thin layer of WD-40 over the entire sole with a cotton ball or swab. When the WD-40 is dry to the touch, reinsert the insole and check for squeaks. If these techniques don't solve the problem, you may want to take your shoes to a professional for repair.	Listen carefully to the squeaky shoe. Listen carefully to the shoe when it squeaks to hear the source of the squeaking. Place pressure on different parts of your foot with the shoe on. Rock it back and forth. Stand up on your toes. Most likely, the source of the squeaking will be the insole of your shoe. In some cases, friction from the tongue of the shoe may cause squeaking also. Visible damage to your shoe, like holes in its fabric or rubber, can sometimes cause squeaking. If you know the source of the squeaking, you'll be able to target this area with de-squeaking techniques, which may resolve your problem faster. Unlace the shoe. This will give you easier access to the insole, which can be difficult to remove for Jordans. Pull the laces through the metal grommets of the shoe until they come free. Place them off to the side in a safe place. Remove the insole. If your insole is not glued down, it will pull free easily. If it is glued, pull the tongue to further open the shoe. Work your fingers between the side of the shoe and the side of the insole. With firm, steady pressure, peel the insole up and remove it. Be careful not to pull too hard, as this may damage or deform the insole. Replacement insoles can be bought at shoe stores, drug stores, and general retailers. Some glue may remain on the bottom of the insole or sole. It may also be tacky. This is normal and should not harm your shoe. Sprinkle baby powder in the sole-less shoe. Hold the shoe so its toes point on a slight downward angle. Apply several shakes of baby powder or talcum powder to the inside of the shoe. Upright the shoe and tilt it back and forth to distribute the powder. Massage the powder lightly with your hands into areas of the sole the squeak seemed to come from. To more thoroughly ingrain the powder in the sole, replace the insole and wear the shoe for 10 to 15 seconds, then remove the insole. Remove excess powder from the shoe. For the best results, allow powder to remain in the shoe overnight. In the morning, upend the shoe over a garbage. Shake and tap it lightly to remove the powder. To maintain the shape of the shoe while it sits overnight, insert a couple of pieces of bunched newspaper into it. Remove and throw away the paper in the morning. Cure squeaking with WD-40, alternatively. Take your shoes outside and/or lay a drop cloth or newspaper beneath them to catch any spills. Spray a thin layer of WD-40 over the entire sole. Apply WD-40 more precisely by soaking a cotton ball or swab in the solution and rubbing the ball or swab on the sole. When the WD-40 is dry to the touch, your shoe is ready for its insole. Wash WD-40 from your hands to prevent eye or skin irritation. If WD-40 gets on a visible part of your shoe, it may cause discoloration. Using too much WD-40 may be harmful to the shoe. Re-insert the sole and test the shoe. Slip the insole back into the shoe. Without lacing the shoe, insert your foot and take a few steps. If there is no squeaking, re-lace the shoe and enjoy your de-squeaked kicks. Reapply powder or WD-40 as necessary. Over time, your shoes may start squeaking again. This can usually be solved by another application of powder or WD-40. Shoes that squeak constantly likely have a physical defect and may require professional repair. Sand away squeaking caused by shoe tongues. If the tongue of your shoe is squeaking, this is likely caused by friction between a part of the tongue and the rest of the shoe. Pull the tongue as free of the shoe as you are able and lightly sand its edges with a fine grit rating (120 to 220 grit) sandpaper. Depending on the material of your shoe, you may want to use a finer or coarser sandpaper. Extra fine sandpaper (240+ grit rating) may be best for delicate material. Avoid sanding visible parts of the tongue if it can be helped. Although sanding will smooth rough spots creating squeaks, it may cloud or deform the surface of shoe material. Mend damage or loose heels with glue. If a small hole or loose heel is the source of the squeaking, you can repair this with glue. Use water and heat resistant urethane rubber for soles. Super glue works well for repairing holes for most shoe material. Follow the glue directions for best results. Some glues may contain chemicals that do damage to the rubber or material of your shoe. When in doubt, consult a shoe repair professional on the best glue for your particular shoe. Have a professional repair the squeaky shoes. If none of these de-squeaking techniques worked, there may be a physical defect with your shoe at the root of the problem. In most cases, these kinds of repairs can only be made by professionals with special tools. As shoes are broken in, they should squeak less. If your shoes continue to squeak even after being broken in, this may be a sign your shoes are in need of professional repair.	Listen carefully to the squeaky shoe. Unlace the shoe. Remove the insole. Sprinkle baby powder in the sole-less shoe. Remove excess powder from the shoe. Cure squeaking with WD-40, alternatively. Re-insert the sole and test the shoe. Reapply powder or WD-40 as necessary. Sand away squeaking caused by shoe tongues. Mend damage or loose heels with glue. Have a professional repair the squeaky shoes.
https://www.wikihow.com/Write-a-Training-Manual	How to Write a Training Manual	To write a training manual, start by compiling all of the information the manual needs to cover and then determining whether dividing it into chapters, sections, or parts would work best. Then, organize the information and create a table of contents and index so your manual is easy to navigate. You'll also want to write up a brief 2-3 paragraph preview for the beginning of each section so readers know what to expect. Also, conclude each section with a summary that wraps up and reviews the information the reader learned.	Review and compile the information the manual needs to cover. Never write a training manual from memory. Go through the various processes and knowledge points that your manual is going to cover and be sure you are clear on everything. Make a list of all the important information and refer to this list as you write the manual, double checking to include it all. Even skipping a small step may confuse your users, so pay attention. For example, you could be telling someone how to enter data into a spreadsheet, but you could easily forget to mention “click File to open a new spreadsheet.” Or when describing how to use a piece of machinery, you may forget to mention flipping a certain switch that's vitally important. If you don't review everything and you do forget something, users are likely to become distressed because something isn't working right. This is not the outcome training should ever result in. Outline the flow of the training manual. Use the list you have made and begin to organize the information into a logical sequence of chapters, sections, or parts. You'll most likely begin with the basics and work up to more in-depth concepts. Before you write any content, make sure you have a good idea of where all aspects of the manual will fit together. You don't want to mention something from what you think is a previous section if the manual hasn't covered that information yet. If you can write self-contained sections that don't build on each other, this may be the right approach in some situations. Include a table of contents and an index. Even if the manual is meant to be read straight through from start to finish, these navigational sections will help people when they need to go back to refresh their memory and study what they learned. The table of contents should have all the chapters titles and any section headings it makes sense to include. Make the index as thorough as possible, giving people lots of things to find throughout the manual. Word processing programs often have templates for these types of documents. You can also find helpful resources online for how to structure these elements. Write informative chapter previews. At the beginning of each chapter or section, write 2-3 paragraphs that outline what will be covered in that part of the manual. You could include a list of objectives for the section, keywords that are good to focus on, and mention quizzes or activities that will be included. Chapter titles should help people know what they'll find, but they should be able to skim the preview and make sure the chapter has what they need to know. End each chapter with a summary. It is always helpful to wrap up and review what has been covered in a chapter. It's a summary, so you can't mention everything. Try to highlight what you see as being the most vital information that people should take away from the chapter. You can mention the objectives again to give people the chance to take stock of whether or not they learned what they were supposed to. Create a group or task force to help you write the manual. You'll succeed more easily at writing a training manual if you have people to help you do it. You need people to check for errors as you go, make sure that the content is understandable, and help you consider all aspects of what you are training for. Plus you can delegate some of the work and distribute it evenly. If you can't have a group to help through the whole process, at least consider asking people a few things at different points as you go to get second opinions. Write for and to your audience. Make sure you are clear on who the audience is. Consider if they have a knowledge base or are starting completely fresh. This will give you an idea of how broad or specific you need to be throughout the manual. When it makes sense, write directly to the audience saying, “When you get to this step…” rather than something like, “When a person gets to this step.” If you are training employees on a brand new software that no one has seen, it's safe to assume they won't know anything. If you are training for sales techniques at a clothing store, you don't need to explain what pants and shirts are. Don't patronize people by over explaining simple concepts, but also don't assume they know something that they may not know. Include problem-solving scenarios and discussion topics. Not everyone can learn by reading 20 pages of text, so include ways for users to apply what they read and get hands on experience. Give a scenario and ask the reader to solve a problem of some kind. Allow for discussion and collaboration among trainees. You want to cater to different learning styles so the manual is useful for as many people as possible. You can't fit every employee perfectly, but if you only use one approach you aren't likely to get through to very many at all. The goal of the training manual is to help employees learn what they need to know, so aim to make it easy for as many people as possible. Enhance the manual with videos or audio recordings. If you are writing a printed manual, consider whether or not you can give trainees access to extra materials, such as videos or audio recordings. For learners who would struggle to read an entire manual, you can work to ensure they still learn what they need to. Many times the written manual will be the primary training tool, but a few extras may make a big difference. This may be affected by the type of content your manual includes and may not be applicable in all cases. Take stock of the specifics of your manual and judge whether or not extra materials could be created. Include a section for user notes. As you are writing each section of the manual, people using the manual will be trying to take in a lot of information. When you purposefully include blank spaces for writing notes, you encourage the users to jot down what they are learning. This will increase the amount of information that they retain. Notes sections would be good alongside most sections of text, but you could also make a separate notes section at the end of chapters and the end of the whole manual. This helps people avoid having separate notebooks that they might lose track of. Utilize images and graphics. Any time you can show the reader something visual, it can have an impact on how much they understand. You don't want to clutter your manual with too much, but use visuals if you can. You can have screenshots of steps in computer work. You can include charts of important data. Pictures of tools or machinery the person will use are good, too. There really is no limit to what types of visual aids you could include, so think about what you are training for and what would be most helpful for the user to see. Include checklists of important steps. For many manuals, you'll be detailing the steps of various processes, and checklists are a great way to sum things up. When a user needs to refer back to a section that includes specific steps, the checklist will refresh their memory and can be checked much more quickly than multiple paragraphs of text. It might even be useful to make these pages easy to tear out so users could keep the checklist handy at later times when they are working on tasks. Checklists could include materials needed, sections for before, during, and after completing a task, or how to evaluate work once it is done. Include activities and quizzes that measure learning. You want to ensure that users of your manual are learning as they go, so write up small tests of their knowledge. Include the answers in a separate spot so they can check how they did. You could have multiple choice questions, fill in the blank and matching, or scenarios for problem solving. These would be separate from any official testing you would have employees take after training is complete. The purpose would be to help them along the way in gauging how much their are learning.	Review and compile the information the manual needs to cover. Outline the flow of the training manual. Include a table of contents and an index. Write informative chapter previews. End each chapter with a summary. Create a group or task force to help you write the manual. Write for and to your audience. Include problem-solving scenarios and discussion topics. Enhance the manual with videos or audio recordings. Include a section for user notes. Utilize images and graphics. Include checklists of important steps. Include activities and quizzes that measure learning.
https://www.wikihow.com/Set-up-a-Green-Anole-Tank	How to Set up a Green Anole Tank	To set up a green anole tank, start by getting a glass tank that holds at least 10 gallons if you only have 1 or 2 lizards, or a 20-gallon tank if you have more than that. Then, line the bottom of the tank with a lizard-friendly substrate, like peat moss or potting soil, and place a shelter for your green anoles on each end of the tank. Next, decorate the tank with plants, vines, and branches for your lizards to climb on. Finally, set up a heating pad on one side of the tank so there's a warm and cool side.	Purchase a 10 US gal (38 L) glass tank for a 1-2 adult anoles. Although anole lizards are small, they need plenty of space to move around, eat, rest, and use the bathroom. Visit a local pet store and purchase a glass tank that's at least 10 gallons (38 L) in size. This will work if you're planning to keep 1-2 anoles, which is a good number for a beginner lizard owner. It's okay to keep 2 or 3 female anoles in a single tank, since they won't fight. However, male anoles should be given their own tank. Keep 1 male and 3 or 4 females in a 20 US gal (76 L) tank. If you'd like to keep more than 1-2 lizards in a tank, the tank size should be twice as large. Purchase a glass tank of this size at your local pet store. A 20 US gal (76 L) tank will give the anoles enough room to bask in warm areas and hide when they need time alone. It's not recommended that you keep more than 4-5 unless you're an experienced anole breeder. Keep an eye on the male anole in this situation and make sure that it doesn't start acting aggressively towards the females. Place the tank at least 5 feet (1.5 m) off the ground in your home. Anoles are used to being somewhat elevated in their natural climates, so try to replicate this in captivity. Set your anoles on a surface that's more or less at your eye level. For example, place the tank on the top of a low bookcase or a high piece of furniture. If you set the tank on a low table or on the ground, the anoles will feel uncomfortable, especially if there are children or pets wandering near the cage. Line the bottom of the tank with a natural substrate. Substrate is the material on the bottom of the tank that the lizards will walk through. It's best if the substrate mimics natural materials that the lizards would experience in nature. So, try lining the tank bottom with a dampened layer of peat moss. Or, lay 2 inches (5.1 cm) of potting soil on the bottom of the tank and cover it with bark mulch. You should be able to purchase all of these materials at a pet store or a home-improvement store. If you're keeping baby anoles, you can use 6-7 paper towels as a substrate if you feed the babies inside the cage. However, purchasing baby anoles isn't recommended unless you're an experienced lizard owner. Set 2 hides on opposite sides of the tank. Hides are 8–10 in (20–25 cm) natural-looking cave-like structures commonly used in terrariums and lizard tanks. As the name suggests, they give the anoles a place to hide or to rest. Purchase 2 hides from a pet store and set them at opposite ends of the tank: 1 in the warm area under the light, for basking, and one on the cool side with no light. Different anoles prefer different types of hides. If you notice your lizard isn't using the hides you purchased, try buying a hide of a different size, material, or color. Decorate the cage with plastic plants and acrylic vines. These items are more than cosmetic; they'll give the anoles a place to climb. Anoles don't spend much time on the ground in their natural habitat, and so these climbing obstacles are a necessity. Local pet stores will sell climbable items that stick to the inner tank walls with plastic suction cups. Purchase at least 3 plants or vines per anole. Depending on the size of the tank, you could also place small live plants in the substrate at the bottom of the tank. Anoles prefer plants with broad, sturdy leaves, like ficus, pothos, dracaena, or philodendrons. Avoid using any live plants that may poison your anoles, including bird of paradise, heliotrope, and ivy. Install a tropical background in the tank for a purely cosmetic touch. If you think the tank looks a little plain, purchase a background with a brightly colored tropical background at your local pet store. Install this on one of the tank's long sides, and position the tank at an angle that allows you to see the colorful background. This type of background does nothing for the anoles and is purely for the aesthetic benefit of their owners. Set up a water dripper over a shallow 3 in (7.6 cm) bowl. In their natural environment, anoles drink water out of streams and off of rain-covered leaves. Simulate this in captivity by attaching a water dripper to 1 side of the anole's tank. Under the dripper's spout, situate a small plastic or metal bowl that's not more than 2 inches (5.1 cm) high. The anole will learn to drink either from the dripper or out of the bowl. Do not fill the dripper with tap water, which may contain impurities. Instead, fill it with distilled bottled water purchased from a supermarket. Spray the greenery in the tank 2 times every day. Anoles may not drink from the water bowl and, even if they do, they still need a humid, wet environment to survive. Fill a small spray bottle with distilled bottled water and, twice daily, spray a generous amount of water across the leaves and other greenery in the cage. Don't spray water directly onto the anole. Feed the anoles live crickets 2 times per day. Anoles need to eat frequently, and their diet in captivity should mimic their natural diet as closely as possible. Purchase live crickets from a pet store, and feed them to your anoles once in the morning and once in the evening. Until you figure out exactly how much your anoles will eat, feed each anole 3 crickets. Different anoles prefer different types of food. If 1 of your anoles doesn't seem to like crickets, try adding a few mealworms at mealtime and see if the anoles eat them. Attach a reptile heat pad beneath the glass tank at 1 end. Anoles are cold blooded and their tank needs to have a temperature gradient so they can adjust their temperature as needed. Purchase a reptile heat pad at a pet store and stick the pad beneath the glass of the anole tank. These pads need to plug into the wall and can be left on for 24 hours a day. Never set reptile heat rocks in an anole tank. These rocks are potentially hazardous and may burn anoles. Set a heat lamp over the tank on the same side as the heat pad. Set a heat lamp with a basking dome directly over the tank, pointing downward so it will warm the anole. Place the heat lamp on the same side as the reptile heat pad. This will ensure that this side of the tank is always hot, while the other side remains cool. Different heat lamps have different means of attaching to the tank. Some have a suction cup that can attach to the side of the glass, while others have small clips that can hook onto the top of the tank. Put your anoles in the tank and watch them explore their new home. In general, anoles dislike being handled. So, don't grab your anole with your hands and shove it into its tank. Instead, take the small crate or tank in which the anole came home from the pet store and set it in the bottom of the tank. Open the small carrying case, let the anole crawl out, and then remove the carrying case and close the large tank. Once your anoles have gotten used to their tanks, you can handle them lightly.	Purchase a 10 US gal (38 L) glass tank for a 1-2 adult anoles. Keep 1 male and 3 or 4 females in a 20 US gal (76 L) tank. Place the tank at least 5 feet (1.5 m) off the ground in your home. Line the bottom of the tank with a natural substrate. Set 2 hides on opposite sides of the tank. Decorate the cage with plastic plants and acrylic vines. Install a tropical background in the tank for a purely cosmetic touch. Set up a water dripper over a shallow 3 in (7.6 cm) bowl. Spray the greenery in the tank 2 times every day. Feed the anoles live crickets 2 times per day. Attach a reptile heat pad beneath the glass tank at 1 end. Set a heat lamp over the tank on the same side as the heat pad. Put your anoles in the tank and watch them explore their new home.
https://www.wikihow.com/Stop-a-Pimple-from-Forming	How to Stop a Pimple from Forming	The best way to stop a pimple from forming is to leave it alone when you notice a break-out so it doesn't become more inflamed. If it's sore, you can try applying a warm, damp compress and washing it with a mild cleanser to stop it from getting worse. In addition to washing your face, try applying a salicylic acid to help prevent further acne. To conceal the pimple, use a non-comedogenic makeup, which is better for acne-prone skin.	Don't try to pop your pimple. If you see a pimple forming, do not squeeze it or try to pop it. Squeezing can actually push the infected material deeper into the skin, worsening the pimple and causing it to become more red and inflamed. It is also more likely to result in permanent scarring if you pick at it. Apply a warm compress to an area that is sore and may be breaking out. Before washing, applying a warm, damp washcloth to the area will help to clear your pore. This will improve your blood flow and increase the chances of your pimple clearing up naturally as soon as possible. Wash your whole face with a mild cleansing agent containing salicylic acid. This will help to rid your face of dead skin cells and excess oil, thereby diminishing the severity of the pimple that is forming. Pimples are worsened by clogged pores and oily skin, so washing twice a day will help to keep the zit as short-lived as possible. Note that it is important not to rub your skin too harshly, particularly over the sore or affected area. This can worsen the potential breakout. Don't wear makeup on the area until it is absolutely necessary to cover it up. Applying a thick layer of any product will trap bacteria, dead skin cells, and oil inside the pore. Keep your skin clean and follow your preventive skincare regimen as closely as possible, wearing makeup only when needed. Note that, for some people with acne problems, even non-comedogenic products clog their skin and cause pimples. Test all makeup products and replace them if they start to clog your skin. Wash your face every day. Note that washing your face more frequently than twice a day may irritate it and strip essential oils from your skin, which can lead to breakouts. Washing once in the morning and once in the evening with a mild cleanser is a good routine to get into to prevent pimples from forming. Use a face cleanser with salicylic acid or benzoyl peroxide. Choosing a product to wash your face with either salicylic acid or benzoyl peroxide as the active ingredient will help to prevent the formation of pimples. This is because these ingredients help to dry excess oil from your skin, thereby decreasing the chances that a pimple will form. Note that these products are most effective as part of a regular skin care regimen. Avoid touching your skin. If you feel like you could be breaking out, keep your hands off you face to prevent spreading more dirt and oil to the area. Wash your hands before you clean your face. Also avoid touching or picking at areas of irritation. If you suspect a breakout may be forming, it is best to keep your hands off it and to use other preventative strategies to ward it off as best as possible. Shower after exertion. After an exercise routine where you have worked up a good sweat, it is a good idea to hop in the shower as soon as possible. Sweat and moisture on your skin increases the chances of pimple formation, so rinsing off sooner rather than later can help to prevent this problem. This is the exception to the washing your face only twice daily rule — it's okay to wash once in the morning, once after working out, and once before bed. Also, wear loose-fitting clothing. Areas that are covered by tight-fitting clothing, where moisture and sweat can collect (such as under a sports bra or tight-fitting shirt), are often where breakouts occur. Choose non-comedogenic makeup. You will want to use water-based cosmetics (labeled "non-comedogenic") rather than oil-based ones, as these will help to prevent your pores from getting clogged. Also, only use makeup when needed, as any skin products, including those that are labeled as "non-comedogenic," are worse for your pores than wearing no makeup at all. When you are done wearing makeup, wash it off your face. Always remove your makeup before going to bed at night, as this will give your pores a chance to clear during the night. Reduce the amount of dairy in your diet. Consuming too many dairy products, such as milk, cheese, yogurt, etc., has been linked to increased breakouts of acne. Choose non-dairy alternatives whenever possible, such as almond milk or soy milk, and see whether reducing dairy in your diet has a positive impact on preventing breakouts. Use medical strategies as a last resort. If you find that you are unable to control or prevent acne breakouts using skin care strategies alone, speak to your doctor about other options. Common medical treatments for persistent or recurrent acne breakouts include: Using topical acne creams. These usually contain salicylic acid or benzoyl peroxide as the active ingredient, and the formulations provided from your doctor can be more potent and effective than those available at your local pharmacy or drugstore. Taking oral antibiotics. Because acne is linked to bacteria on your skin, taking an oral antibiotic such as minocycline can help to diminish outbreaks. Using the birth control pill. For women with acne, the hormones provided in the birth control pill (namely, the boost of estrogen) can help to prevent acne breakouts. This is because acne is fuelled by androgens such as testosterone, so raising female hormones can help to counterbalance the effect of the testosterone that is present in all of us (both women and men have testosterone — the difference is that men have more of it). Taking isotretinoin. Also known as Accutane, isotretinoin is a powerful medication to prevent acne and is used only in more severe cases, as it can have serious side effects. Speak to your doctor if you think this may apply to you. If you are planning to get pregnant, isotretinoin should be avoided, as it is known to cause birth defects.	Don't try to pop your pimple. Apply a warm compress to an area that is sore and may be breaking out. Wash your whole face with a mild cleansing agent containing salicylic acid. Don't wear makeup on the area until it is absolutely necessary to cover it up. Wash your face every day. Use a face cleanser with salicylic acid or benzoyl peroxide. Avoid touching your skin. Shower after exertion. Choose non-comedogenic makeup. Reduce the amount of dairy in your diet. Use medical strategies as a last resort.
https://www.wikihow.com/Make-Strawberry-Juice	How to Make Strawberry Juice	To make strawberry juice, start by getting 2 pounds of strawberries. Next, fill your blender with the strawberries and blend them until smooth. Then, pour the mixture through a sieve or strainer to separate the juice from the pulp. Finally, once your juice is ready pour it into a jug to serve.	Prepare your strawberries for extracting juice. To make a generous amount of juice, you'll need to gather about two pounds of strawberries. Wash and cut the stems off of fresh strawberries, or thaw frozen strawberries. Set up the device you’ll use to squeeze out the juice from the strawberries. There's more than one type of kitchen gadget you can use to extract juice from strawberries. You can use a juicer, a blender, or a centrifuge, a rare kitchen gadget commonly used in labs, which uses rotational forces to separate high and low density particles. Not all juicers are made the same, but a typical assembly involves attaching a blade, filter, chute, and juice and pulp containers to a juicer base. Connect the juicer to an electrical outlet and make sure it's set to “on.” A typical blender assembly involves inserting a blade inside of a container and connecting the container to a base, which plugs into an electrical outlet. A kitchen centrifuge is a small rectangular machine that spins several bottles on a rotor at a high speed to apply gravitational force. It may already come assembled. If not, assembly usually requires you to lift the top and secure the rotor on the base. The rotor should have a number of holes which hold bottles. You'll fill those bottles with contents, and then place them in the holes of the rotor. Use a juicer to extract strawberry juice. You'll likely have to use a pusher to push the fruit into the blades. While holding the pusher in one hand, use the other to fill the chute with strawberries. Use the pusher to press the strawberries into the blades. The juicer will shoot the juice into one container, and the pulp into another. Continue pushing the strawberries through the juicer until they're all juiced. You should have a generous amount of juice to drink. Use a blender to extract juice. Fill the blender with your strawberries, cover with a top, and blend until smooth. Pour the mixture through a sieve or strainer to separate the juice from the pulp. Alternately, you could use a centrifuge to separate the juice from the pulp. Use a centrifuge to extract strawberry juice. If you're a home chef who's also into science gastronomy, using a centrifuge to extract strawberry juice is right up your ally. Take strawberry puree that's just been blended and pour equal amounts into the bottles. Weigh the bottles to ensure they're equal. Place the filled bottles into the rotor, close the centrifuge, and set it to maximum speed for about ten minutes. The force of the machine will draw heavier particles, like the pulp and seeds, to the bottom; while the lighter weighing juice will float to the top. Pour your juice into a juice jug to serve. Once you've used your designated kitchen gadget to release the juices from the strawberries, you can now pour the juice through a sieve or strainer to make sure all of the pulp is separated from the juice. If you've used a juicer, you won't need to do this because the machine has already done it for you. If you've used a blender, wait for the contents in the container to settle, about 10 minutes. The juice at the bottom should look a lot darker than the juice at the top. Pour the mixture slowly through a sieve. Press the pulp with a spatula or the back of a large spoon to squeeze out as much juice as possible. If you've used a centrifuge, pour the mixture slowly through the sieve to keep from disturbing the heavier contents at the bottom. Serve your juice as desired. You can allow your fresh strawberry juice, to cool in the refrigerator before serving, or add ice to serve immediately. Prepare your strawberries. Rinse two cups of fresh strawberries under cold water and remove their stems. If you only have frozen, gather the same amount, which is about 18 to 20 strawberries, and allow them to thaw. You'll want your frozen strawberries to thaw so that your juice will be more like a smooth liquid as opposed to a thick smoothie. This amount will create two servings of juice. If you plan to serve more than two people, then double or triple the amount of strawberries as needed. You'll also need to increase the amount of the remaining ingredients accordingly. Put strawberries and other ingredients into blender. This simple strawberry juice will be pureed in a blender, so all of your ingredients can be added at once. Add to your blender the strawberries, a teaspoon of lemon juice, two tablespoons of sugar, a pinch of salt, and two cups of water. Remember, if you've doubled or tripled your strawberries, make sure you double or triple the amount of the additional ingredients as well. Salt is optional. While adding salt helps bring out the sweetness of the juice, if you're trying to limit your salt intake for health reasons or as a personal preference, then it's not necessary to add. The amount of sugar you use depends on taste and need. Your strawberries may already be so sweet that you won't need much, if any, sugar. Alternately, they may not be sweet at all, and you may need more sugar than recommended. Blend for a minute or two. Ingredients should be well mixed and pureed. Taste test your juice. Is your strawberry juice too sweet or not sweet enough? Adjust the taste of your juice as needed. If it's too sweet, then add a little more water. If it doesn't taste sweet enough, you can add more sugar. Add a couple of teaspoons of sugar at a time to keep from adding too much sugar to your juice. Strain your juice to remove the pulp and seeds. This step is optional, but if you prefer the feel and taste of pulp-free juice, pour your juice through a fine meshed strainer before serving. Place the sieve over a juice jug to pour your juice directly into your serving container. Enjoy your strawberry juice. You can either chill your juice in the refrigerator for a couple hours before serving, or add a few ice cubes to a glass to serve immediately. Prepare your strawberries. Wash two pounds of fresh strawberries. Remove the stems and cut the strawberries in half. If your strawberries are frozen, allow to thaw before slicing in half. It is possible that using frozen strawberries in this method may alter the taste a little, so try to use fresh strawberries if you can. Put half of the chopped strawberries into a large bowl and cover with one cup of sugar. Top with the remaining chopped strawberries, and then cover those with the rest of the sugar. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap or foil paper and let sit in the refrigerator for 24 hours. After 24 hours, remove the bowl from the refrigerator and pour the mixture into a saucepan. A saucepan is deep cooking pan. If you don't have one, a large pot will suffice. Put the pan on the stove and heat over medium-high heat. Keep a close eye on the mixture as it comes to a boil to prevent it from burning. When it begins to boil, reduce the heat and let it simmer for 30 minutes. While the mixture is simmering, wash the large bowl used for marinating the strawberry and sugar mixture. Place a sieve or strainer over the bowl. The mesh of the sieve or strainer should be fine to prevent the tiniest of food particles, like the seeds, from passing through. Once the mixture finishes simmering, carefully pour it through sieve to make sure it doesn’t splash or burn you. Once poured through, the cooked strawberries should be left in the sieve. Using a spatula or the back of a large spoon, smash the strawberries into the sieve to squeeze out any remaining juices. You now should have a bowl of hot strawberry syrup. Pour the strawberry syrup into a sterilized glass bottle. The sterilized bottle will ensure that the mixture lasts for longer than a few days in your refrigerator. If you have one, put a funnel cup inside the spout of the bottle to keep from spilling the syrup over the sides. If you don't have a funnel cup, transfer the mixture into a container with a spout. This should make it easier to pour the syrup into the bottle without spilling it. Top the bottle with the sterilized cap and allow the bottle and the mixture to completely cool before storing in the refrigerator. To sterilize a glass bottle, wash the glass bottle and then place on a baking sheet in an oven preheated to 170 degrees. Let it sit for 30 minutes. Put the cap of the bottle in a small bowl and pour boiling water over it. This will sterilize it. Remove the bottle from the oven with an oven-mitt or thick towel to be safe. Wait until it is cool enough to touch before filling with the strawberry syrup. To make strawberry juice using the syrup, mix ¼- cup of the syrup with one cup of water. Add more strawberry syrup if you'd prefer it sweeter. Or add more water if it's too sweet. You can spice up your strawberry juice by using soda water instead. Or if you're having an evening event, use the strawberry syrup to make a strawberry cocktail.	Prepare your strawberries for extracting juice. Set up the device you’ll use to squeeze out the juice from the strawberries. Use a juicer to extract strawberry juice. Use a blender to extract juice. Use a centrifuge to extract strawberry juice. Pour your juice into a juice jug to serve. Serve your juice as desired. Prepare your strawberries. Put strawberries and other ingredients into blender. Blend for a minute or two. Taste test your juice. Strain your juice to remove the pulp and seeds. Enjoy your strawberry juice. Prepare your strawberries. Put half of the chopped strawberries into a large bowl and cover with one cup of sugar. After 24 hours, remove the bowl from the refrigerator and pour the mixture into a saucepan. While the mixture is simmering, wash the large bowl used for marinating the strawberry and sugar mixture. Once the mixture finishes simmering, carefully pour it through sieve to make sure it doesn’t splash or burn you. Pour the strawberry syrup into a sterilized glass bottle. To make strawberry juice using the syrup, mix ¼- cup of the syrup with one cup of water.
https://www.wikihow.com/Do-a-Donkey-Kick	How to Do a Donkey Kick	To do a donkey kick, start by bending your knees and placing your palms flat on the floor so they're shoulder-width apart. Then, shift your weight onto your hands by leaning forward, and lift your heels so only your toes are touching the floor. Next, when you're ready, kick both of your feet off the ground and into the air, keeping your hips lined up with your shoulders. Finally, let both of your feet land back on the ground at the same time.	Get into your starting posture. Begin with both of your feet flat on the floor and your arms raised above your head, near your ears. Your feet should be positioned evenly right next to each other. For children and beginners, you can adjust the starting position by beginning in a squatting position, resting your body weight on the balls of your feet. Your arms should be on the outside of your legs, flat on the floor. Touch the floor. If you are starting in a standing position, bend at your waist and knees to reach down and touch the floor. Your hands should be evenly positioned, about shoulder width apart. If you are starting in a squatting position, your hands are already on the floor, but should still be evenly positioned across from each other, about shoulder width apart on the outside of your knees. Lean forward. With your hands flat on the floor, lean forward (almost like you're rocking), to shift your weight from your feet, and balance your body weight on your hands. Be sure to keep your arms and elbows straight as you shift your body weight to your hands. At this point, most of your body weight should be resting on your hands, and only your toes should be touching the floor. Avoid turning or tucking your neck. You should try to keep your neck as neutral as possible. You can practice this movement a couple times until you get the positioning and rhythm of shifting your weight to you hands. Kick up. When your weight is shifted to your arms and hands, use both of your feet to kick off from the floor and try to align your hips with your shoulders. Keep your knees bent as you kick off from the ground. Try to hold the position of your feet in the air, and then allow your feet to softly come back down to the floor. Both of your feet should land on the floor at the same time. This might take a few tries, but every time your kick off from your feet, try and lift the core of your body more and more upright. As you're able to align your hips above your shoulders, try to hold your body position (now in a half handstand), and slowly try to extend your legs into a full handstand. Modify the donkey kick. If kicking off the ground with both of your feet is too challenging, you can modify the donkey kick to kick off with one foot. From the squatting position with your hands on the ground, shift your body weight to your hands, and kick off from the ground with your dominant foot. For example, if you write with your right hand, your dominant foot is your right foot. Once your dominant foot is off the ground, bring your other foot up to meet your dominant foot in the air. Try to hold your body weight above you before coming back down and landing. Your dominant foot kicking off the ground first is what gets your feet off the ground. Your other foot meeting your dominant foot is what helps lift your body up to align your hips over your shoulders, and position your core vertically. You can also modify the landing to land on one foot rather than landing on both. Simply bring one foot down to the floor, and bring your other foot down to meet it. Try to land as softly as you can. This will increase your stability and control as you learn how to perform a handstand.	Get into your starting posture. Touch the floor. Lean forward. Kick up. Modify the donkey kick.
https://www.wikihow.com/Take-Care-of-Kittens	How to Take Care of Kittens	To take care of kittens, let them nurse from their mother for the first 4 weeks after they're born. If the kittens aren't nursing, you'll need to bottle feed them with powdered cat milk replacer, which you can find at most major pet stores. Avoid feeding cow's milk to a kitten or you could upset its stomach. After 4 weeks, start providing kitten food and water so the kittens can wean off of the milk.	Provide a quiet place for the birth. Your female cat will chose a place where she feels safe to give birth. By all means, provide a large cardboard box, turn it on its side and line it with warm, dry bedding–but don't be disappointed if she has other ideas. Instinct tells her to find a quiet concealed spot, such as under a bed, behind a sofa, or inside a kitchen cabinet. To learn more about helping your cat give birth, see this article. Do not disturb during the birth and first two days. The first 48 hours is a crucial time for the mother to bond with her kittens, so try not to disturb her. If she gives birth under your bed, leave her there. Moving the newborn kittens will distress the mother and in the worst scenario could cause her to reject them. Once she is firmly bonded, at around four or five days, if you feel it's necessary to move the kittens, do it then. Leave food, water, and cat litter in the room. The mother won't want to leave her kittens for long in the first two weeks of their life. Always put food and water within stretching distance of her nest, and if possible, offer a litter tray in the same room so that she can stay within sight and sound of the kittens. If food is in another room, some mothers chose to starve rather than leave their newborn kittens to find it. Feed the mother extra calories. She needs the extra calories to make milk for her kittens. Feed her kitten food, which has more calories than adult cat food. Let Mom do most of the clean-ups. Instinct helps the mother to keep the nest clean. The newborn kittens do not urinate or defecate on their own, so the mother has to lick their bottoms before and after feeding to stimulate elimination. This way she keeps the nest clean. Try to disturb the nest as little as possible. If the bedding becomes soiled, wait until Mom hops out for a toilet break herself to take out the dirty bedding and pop in clean. Check that the kittens are all nursing. If the mother cat is present, the kittens should nurse from her immediately after the last kitten is born. Newborn kittens will spend most of their time sleeping, waking up to nurse every two to three hours. If they do not appear to be nursing, or one kitten is being pushed away from the mother cat by its siblings, supplement with bottle feeding as described in Part 2. Consider spaying the mother cat. Having your mother cat spayed (removing her womb) after the kittens are done nursing (they should be weaned by about 8 weeks) is highly recommended by veterinarians and humane organizations. This helps prevent the suffering of unwanted kittens, and can also have some health benefits for the spayed cat. Be aware that a cat can potentially fall pregnant again as little as three to four days after giving birth, so keep her indoors to avoid this risk. Start to think about deworming the kittens. This can happen as early as two weeks if necessary. Consult a veterinarian for proper medication and dosing. Feed the kittens a milk replacement. Powdered cat milk replacer (such as Cimicat) can be purchased from the vet clinic, major pet stores, or on the Internet. Another good milk replacer is KMR. This is the cat equivalent of infant formula, with the same composition as queen's (mother's) milk. The milk replacer has guidelines as to how much to feed in each meal. Do not feed cow's milk to the kitten as the lactose is likely to upset the kitten's stomach. If you have no milk replacement and a hungry kitten, offer some cooled boiled water in a dropper or syringe until you can get to the vet clinic or pet store. The water keeps the kitten hydrated and won't upset her tummy. Use a kitten feeding bottle with a specially designed kitten teat. You can purchase this at a vet clinic, a major pet store, or on the Internet. In an emergency use an eyedropper or a small syringe to drip the milk replacement into the kitten's mouth. Burp the kittens after each meal. You do this much as you would a baby: hold the kitten up straight against your shoulder, or place one hand under its belly. Gently pat and rub its back. Stimulate the kittens to eliminate. Before and after each feed, wipe the kitten's bottom with a paper towel or gauze pad soaked in warm water. This stimulates the kitten to go to the toilet, which otherwise she would not do. Hold the kitten over a litter box and use the towel to rub the kitten's genitals and anal region after every meal. Continue to do this until the urination and defecation is over (when nothing else is coming out). Rub in just one direction–rubbing back and forth is irritating. Cotton balls or pads are not recommended because they shed. Look for signs of healthy elimination. Urine should be pale yellow and odorless, and stools should be yellowish-brown, formed in tiny logs. Dark, pungent urine is a sign of dehydration; green stool may be a sign of over-feeding, while white stool could indicate malabsorption, a serious problem. Call your vet if you have any concerns. If the kitten does not urinate for 12 hours, take her to the vet's immediately. Most kittens poop once a day, but individual schedules vary. Take her to the vet's if she hasn't pooped in more than two days. Follow the kittens' meal times. In the first two weeks of life the kitten feeds every two to three hours around the clock. The kitten will tell you she is hungry by crying and wriggling around as if hunting for a nipple. A full kitten often falls asleep while suckling and has a rounded belly. After two weeks, the feeds can be stretched out to to every three to four hours, with a gap of six hours overnight. Keep the kittens warm with a covered heating pad. Neonatal kittens (under two weeks of age) cannot regulate their body temperature and usually keep warm by snuggling up to their mother. You can simulate this situation by keeping them on a heated pad designed for puppies or kittens. Avoid putting them in direct contact with the pad: if the kitten is in direct contact with the heat pad, she might be at risk of either local burns or overheating. However, these pads usually come in a fleece cover so it shouldn't be a problem, except for when you remove the cover for washing, in which case substitute a towel. As the kitten gets older (over two weeks), she is able to move away from the heat if she gets too hot. Never feed a cold kitten. If a kitten's body feels cold, you need to warm her up gradually. A kitten is cold if her ears and/or the pads of her feet feel chilly to the touch. Put your finger in her mouth: if it feels cold, the kitten's body temperature is too low, which can be life-threatening. Warm her up slowly by wrapping her in a fleece blanket and holding her next to your body, rubbing her gently with your hands for one to two hours. Learn more about taking care of orphaned kittens. You can start with this article. Contact a veterinarian for information and suggestions. Your vet can also provide vaccinations against common diseases and deworm the kittens. Orphaned kittens may be dewormed starting at two weeks, and, depending on their situation, can be vaccinated starting anywhere from two to eight weeks. They may have weaker immune systems because, unlike other kittens, they don't get the antibodies from their mother's milk. Start to leave out extra kitten food. If Mom's around, the weaning process (switching from mother's milk to solid food) happens naturally from about four weeks. At this point, Mom gets tired of the kittens chewing on her teats and starts to spend time apart from them. In turn, the hungry kittens investigate food options around them and usually discover Mom's food. As the kittens start to take mouthfuls of her food, they begin the weaning process. Provide water. Kittens do not need water until they start weaning, roughly around four weeks old. Any kitten above this age, however, should have constant access to a full water bowl. Change this water whenever it gets dirty (as it tends to if kittens step and/or poop in the bowl). Put down kitten food for hand-reared kittens. If you've been bottle-feeding the kittens yourself, the weaning process is similar. It sometimes helps to put some milk-replacer in a saucer and put your finger just beneath the surface to teach the kitten to lap first. Then, it's a matter of mashing up some wet kitten food with the milk-replacer to make a porridge for the kitten to lap. As she gets the hang of that you can thicken up the porridge until she's happily taking most of her calories in solid form. Socialize your kittens by introducing them to new things. Socialization is crucial during the three-to-nine-week window. From two to three weeks of age, handle the kittens as much as possible every day. Introduce them to different sights and sounds, such as the vacuum cleaner, hair dryer, men with beards, children... anything you can think of. During this six-week window the kitten is most open to new experiences, and what she encounters now she will accept without question as an adult, making her into a happy, well-adjusted and sociable cat. Use cat toys, balls, string, or other objects to play with them and keep them entertained , but don't use objects small enough for them to swallow. (Note that cats may eat string or yarn if left unsupervised, so only allow this in your interactive play. It's a potential choking hazard.) Don't teach your kittens that human fingers and hands are toys, or the kitten may continue to bite and scratch them as an adult. Provide non-clumping litter. Choose a spot for the litter box carefully, as once used to it, the kittens will probably continue to use that spot. If litter-training the kittens yourself, simply place the kittens there after each meal, or whenever a kitten starts to crouch and scratch the floor in preparation for pooping. Clean the litter box at least once a day, or the kittens may stop using it. Choose a box with low sides so it's easy for the kittens to get in and out. Avoid clumping litter, as kittens may eat the clumps, which could potentially harm their digestion. If a kitten seems like it doesn't want to stay in the litter box, gently take its paws and imitate digging in the litter. Then, provide the kitten with privacy so it can dig a hole, do its business, and cover it up with some litter. Keep the cat inside until it has all its shots. Once your veterinarian allows it, you can let the cat outside to explore. Make sure you keep a close watch on it until you're sure it knows to return home. Let the kitten outside when it's a bit hungry. Entice it back in by calling its name and showing it food. This will remind your kitten that while outdoors is fun, its final destination will always be your home. Give kittens away responsibly. If selling or giving away the kittens, you should wait until they are at least eight weeks old, but twelve weeks old is preferred. Take them to a vet and start their shots before they leave you. Always follow-up with the new owners to make sure the kitten is getting her shots and is scheduled to be spayed or neutered. Exchange phone numbers with the new owners so you can confirm your kitten is in good hands, or in case the owners want to return her (at least you can help her find another home). Ask the breeder or shelter for a blanket that smells like the kitten's mother and siblings. These smells help to give the kitten comfort while she settles into her new home. Ask what kind of food the kitten's been eating. Provide this for the first few days so that you don't make too many changes at once. When the kitten has settled in, this is your chance to change her food to one of your choosing, though do it gradually: replace a small quantity of her former food with the new food, increasing the amount slowly over the course of a week. If the kitten is eating dry kibble, leave a bowl out all day. If she is eating wet food, give her small meals every six hours. Continue to feed kitten food, not adult cat food, until one year of age. Provide water. Kittens above four weeks of age need water, so clean water should always be available. Cats tend to be more interested in water that is not next to their food bowl. Encourage drinking by placing water bowls in different spots through the house. Introduce the kitten to your house slowly. Expose the kitten to just one room initially: the whole house will be too overwhelming on the first day. Set up a bed (preferably one that has sides and a roof so the kitten feels safe in a nest), with food and water in one corner of the room, and a litter tray in the opposite corner. Show the kitten where her facilities are, and then leave her to rest. It's been a big day for the little kitten so let her adjust and sleep for a few hours. Give the kitten as much attention as you can. Spend as much time as possible grooming, playing, fussing and interacting with the kitten. This helps her to grow into a well-socialized, friendly adult. Keep the kitten and your possessions safe. Keep electrical cords and devices out of the kitten's reach to avoid her chewing on them. Child locks may be a wise investment for low cabinets if you have a particularly inquisitive kitten. Plan a vet visit. At nine weeks old the kitten can have her first vaccination. This is the ideal time for a vet to examine her, worm her and start vaccinations. The basic kitten vaccine includes protection against cat flu and infectious enteritis. There is also the option to vaccinate against feline leukemia.	Provide a quiet place for the birth. Do not disturb during the birth and first two days. Leave food, water, and cat litter in the room. Feed the mother extra calories. Let Mom do most of the clean-ups. Check that the kittens are all nursing. Consider spaying the mother cat. Start to think about deworming the kittens. Feed the kittens a milk replacement. Use a kitten feeding bottle with a specially designed kitten teat. Burp the kittens after each meal. Stimulate the kittens to eliminate. Look for signs of healthy elimination. Follow the kittens' meal times. Keep the kittens warm with a covered heating pad. Never feed a cold kitten. Learn more about taking care of orphaned kittens. Start to leave out extra kitten food. Provide water. Put down kitten food for hand-reared kittens. Socialize your kittens by introducing them to new things. Provide non-clumping litter. Keep the cat inside until it has all its shots. Give kittens away responsibly. Ask the breeder or shelter for a blanket that smells like the kitten's mother and siblings. Ask what kind of food the kitten's been eating. Provide water. Introduce the kitten to your house slowly. Give the kitten as much attention as you can. Keep the kitten and your possessions safe. Plan a vet visit.
https://www.wikihow.com/Print-on-T%E2%80%90Shirts	How to Print on T‐Shirts	To print on T-shirts using transfer paper, start by selecting an image and saving it as a file on your computer. Print the image onto the transfer paper, then cut it out. Spread the T-shirt on a hard, flat surface, then heat up a regular clothing iron. Situate the cut-out where you want it to be on the T-shirt, then place the image face down on light colored shirts, or face up for dark colored shirts. Iron over the paper, let it cool for a few minutes, then peel the paper away to reveal your image!	Purchase T-shirt transfer paper. You can use transfer paper to do dye sublimation printing, which is one of the most popular methods. Special heat transfer paper can be found anywhere you can buy stationary or printer paper. There are two types of transfer paper, one suitable for white or pastel shirts, and one suitable for all darker colors. Dye sublimation printing means printing out the image and then using heat to infuse the image onto a surface, in this case your own T-shirts. Most transfer paper is the same size as your regular printer paper (Letter size or A4 depending on your country). Before purchasing an unusual size, make sure your printer can handle it. Light transfer paper is used for light or white shirts. Dark transfer paper is used for any shirt that is darker. Select a high quality image for your T-shirt design. You can use any image saved on your computer. If you only have the image in a physical form, scan it and save it to your computer as a jpeg file. Alternatively, take a photograph and transfer it to your computer. If you're going to be selling the shirts through your own online T-shirt business, only use your original designs or photos. Mirror the image for light-colored shirts. Transfer paper for light-colored paper creates a mirror image on your shirt. Look for a "reverse" or "mirror" setting in the print options window, or flip your image in MS Paint or another image editing program. If you skip this step, all text in your design will be unreadable. Do not reverse the image if you are using transfer paper for darker shirts. This type of transfer paper transfers the image exactly as it appears. If you're not sure whether the reverse setting worked, print out a test piece on ordinary paper. It should come out as the mirror image of the look you want. Print your design onto the paper. Before printing, check the preview to confirm that the image fits onto your paper. If it's too large, select "fit to scale" in the print options, or scale it down in an image editing program. When printing with your transfer paper, you need the right kind of printer like an inkjet printer. If the two sides of your transfer paper look different, print onto the blank side. One side may have a logo, design, or thermal indicators on it. Switch to "landscape mode" if the image is wider than it is tall. Cut out the image. Any paper you leave around the image will show up as a thin film on the shirt. To create a clean image, cut out the image. To get an accurate cut, use a ruler and an Exacto knife. Cover a hard, flat surface with a cotton pillowcase. Clear a table or countertop, then clean and dry it if necessary. Lay a cotton pillowcase over this surface, covering enough space to lay out the area of your T-shirt you'll be printing. Most ironing boards are not suitable, due to the metal bars or grating on the surface. Use a surface that can withstand heat. Don't try to iron over a laminate countertop. A cutting board can also work. Set your iron so you can use it as a heat press. Check the instructions that came with your transfer paper to find out which settings work best for your product. If no advice is listed, select the "cotton" or high-temperature setting; select "dry" or turn off the steam; empty all water out of the iron. Give the iron a few minutes to warm up. For best results, use an iron with at least 1200 watts of power. . Iron the shirt Place the shirt over the pillowcase. Iron it until it is completely flat. Any wrinkles will show up in the transferred image. Wash and dry the T-shirt first if necessary. Place the paper onto the shirt. If using transfer paper for light shirts, place the image face down. If using transfer paper for dark shirts, place the image faceup. Line up the center of the image with the center of your T-shirt neckline. Placing the image face down will allow the image to be transferred so that it's not a mirrored image when it gets transferred to your shirt. Iron the image onto the shirt. Press the iron firmly over the clothing, pushing down with your whole hand for significant pressure. The iron acts as a heat press to transfer the image onto the shirt. Iron from 30 seconds to several minutes, according to the instructions that came with your specific transfer paper. Try not to move the iron around as much as you normally would when you're ironing clothes. You do want to provide heat to the entire surface of the image, but you need to provide constant heat to ensure the iron-on sheet binds to the shirt. Some types of transfer paper have thermal indicators that will change colors when the area is hot enough. Let the area cool and then peel the paper off. Let it cool for at least a few minutes, until the paper reaches room temperature. You've just created your own custom T-shirt! Peel off the paper to reveal your image underneath. Lay your shirt on a flat surface and iron it. To get the best results, you should iron your shirt to smooth out any wrinkles that could mess up the ink transfer. Inkodye works best with cotton shirts so be sure to set your iron to the cotton setting. Iron the shirt until you've removed all wrinkles, especially on and around the area you plan to print on. Use a dry ironing method without steam. Insert a piece of foam core or cardboard into your shirt. Place the cardboard inside your shirt and smooth out the area again. Cardboard works well because it's flat and won't let the ink bleed through to the other side of the shirt. Plus, when you're done, you can just throw it away. Create a frame where you want to place the image. You can use a piece of cardboard or plastic frame that you've made or simply use blue painter's tape to tape off the area. The area inside your frame is where you'll paint on the ink. The frame ensures that no ink gets outside of the area. If you don't want any extra inked area around your photo, use a frame that's slightly smaller than your image. A smaller frame ensures that the ink won't bleed out past your photo. Make sure not to tape the image down. It will get stuck. And run your fingernail along the taped edges if you used tape to ensure there are no gaps. Pour your Inkodye into a bowl. Make sure to shake the bottle well before pouring the ink. Make sure that your bowl isn't absorbent, you don't want the dye seeping into it. Try to do this in a ventilated room that isn't exposed to a lot of natural light. About 2.5 tablespoons (40 ml) can coat an 11X11” cotton square. Apply the Inkodye to your shirt. Coat your brush or roller with the dye. Use the edges of your bowl to get excess dye of your brush so there's not dripping or blotting. Evenly apply the dye to your desired area on your shirt, and use a steady hand while you're applying it. Also, don't soak your shirt, or the paint might bleed underneath the the edges of your frame. Inkodye is fairly colorless so pay close attention to how much you are applying. After you've covered the desired area, grab a paper towel and blot the area to soak up any excess dye. Remove the frame to see the painted area. Once you've covered the area you no longer need your frame. You can keep the frame on if you used tape and you think some of the dye may have bled through. Place your negative on the inked part of the shirt. You can press down your negative onto your shirt to help it stick to the dyed area. Smooth out the area with your hand. You want your negative to make good contact everywhere with the dye. Use straight pins on the edges of your negative to keep it in place. Alternatively, you can place a piece of acetate over the top of your negative. Expose your print to direct sunlight. You now want to bring your shirt with the negative on it outside and let it soak up the sun to dry and transfer the image. Expose your print to direct sunlight for 10-15 minutes. It's best to do this when the sun is strongest around 11:00 am to 3:00 pm. You may have to expose your print for longer if it's cloudy out. After about five or so minutes you'll begin to see the image darken. Remove the negative. It's best to remove the negative in a space that isn't very bright. Removing the negative in subdued lighting will help to keep the print intact. Wash your shirt. It's best to wash your shirt in the washing machine, but you can hand wash it as well. Washing will remove any extra Inkodye from your shirt and make your print look nice and fresh. Use warm to hot water for best results. You may want to wash it twice to remove all the residue. After your shirt is clean, it's ready to wear!	Purchase T-shirt transfer paper. Select a high quality image for your T-shirt design. Mirror the image for light-colored shirts. Print your design onto the paper. Cut out the image. Cover a hard, flat surface with a cotton pillowcase. Set your iron so you can use it as a heat press. . Place the paper onto the shirt. Iron the image onto the shirt. Let the area cool and then peel the paper off. Lay your shirt on a flat surface and iron it. Insert a piece of foam core or cardboard into your shirt. Create a frame where you want to place the image. Pour your Inkodye into a bowl. Apply the Inkodye to your shirt. Remove the frame to see the painted area. Place your negative on the inked part of the shirt. Expose your print to direct sunlight. Remove the negative. Wash your shirt.
https://www.wikihow.com/Get-a-Gun-License-in-Georgia	How to Get a Gun License in Georgia	To get a gun license in Georgia, you need to be at least 21 and have no felony convictions. If you have a clean record, head down to your county courthouse and ask for a firearms license form. Bring proof of your residency, like a utility bill or driver's license, with you to confirm your identity. Then, pay the processing fee. If you want your license to be delivered to you, give the clerk a stamped and addressed envelope. Otherwise, you'll have to pick up your license from the courthouse. After you apply at the courthouse, you'll also need to have your fingerprints taken. The clerk will direct you where to have these done. Once your license is awarded, it will be valid for 5 years, at which point you'll need to apply for a renewal.	Meet the age requirement. You must be at least 21 years of age to get a gun license in Georgia. However, if you've been in the Armed Forces, you can apply at age 18 if you have completed basic training and can provide proof that you are either on active duty or have been honorably discharged. Check if you have a felony conviction. You can't get a gun license if you have a felony conviction in Georgia or in any other state. However, you can qualify if you have your right to own a firearm restored. You are also prohibited from getting a license if there are criminal proceedings pending or if you are a fugitive. Analyze if you have a disqualifying drug conviction. You are ineligible to receive a gun license if you have been convicted of any offense arising out of the manufacture or distribution of a dangerous drug or controlled substance. For example, you're ineligible if you've been convicted of making or selling drugs. A misdemeanor drug conviction does not result in a lifetime ban. You can get a gun license if you've been free of supervision for at least five years. You also can't have been convicted of a second misdemeanor conviction involving use, possession, manufacture, or distribution. Check your other convictions. You can be prohibited from getting a license for a certain number of years depending on your other convictions. Check the following: Illegally carrying a concealed weapon or a pistol without a license. You are ineligible until you are free of supervision and five years have passed. Domestic violence. You are ineligible to get a gun license unless you receive a pardon or have your gun rights restored. Ask for approval in some situations. The county probate judge must approve your application if you've been in a mental hospital or drug treatment center within the past five years. The judge will ask the superintendent of your treatment center or hospital for their opinion. You will need to pay an extra fee. However, if you've been committed to a mental hospital against your will, then you are ineligible to receive a gun license under federal law. Consult with an attorney if you have questions. Sometimes it's not clear whether you qualify for a gun license in Georgia. Only a qualified attorney can analyze your specific situation and offer accurate advice. Obtain a referral to an attorney by contacting your local or state bar association. Take proof of residency. For example, you can use your state-issued photo ID, such as a valid driver's license. If you are a non-citizen, then bring your Resident Alien ID card. You can use other forms of identification if you don't have a driver's license with your current address listed on it. For example, you should take at least two of the following: utility bills, lease agreement, voter registration card, property tax statement, or income tax records. Call your probate court to ask about fees. You'll apply at the county courthouse where you live. Find the phone number online or in the phone book and call to check on the fees. You can also find a list of probate courts at this website: http://gaprobate.gov/content/find-your-courts. Click on your county. The average fee is $75, but each county sets its own fees. Also ask about acceptable methods of payment. Some counties won't accept bills larger than a $20. Complete an application at the probate court. You have to go to the courthouse yourself so you can have your picture taken for the application. Tell the clerk you want to apply for a firearms license. They will give you an application. Provide the court with a self-addressed envelope. The court will mail your license to you, but you'll need to provide a self-addressed, stamped envelope. If you don't provide one, then you'll need to stop in and pick up your license when it is ready. Give fingerprints. After you apply at the courthouse, you'll need to have your fingerprints taken. In some counties, you'll have to go to the police department to give fingerprints. The clerk should tell you where to go. Wait for processing. About five days after you apply, the judge will request a criminal history check. Law enforcement will analyze your criminal history and should make a decision about 30 days later. If you don't hear anything after 30 days, contact the court. Georgia law allows you to sue if you've been unlawfully denied a gun license. When your license arrives, it will be inflexible and shaped like a driver's license. Keep the license with your firearms. Whenever you carry your guns, you must have your license on you. You can be fined if a law enforcement officer pulls you over and you don't have the license with the firearm. Take a gun safety course. A gun safety course is not required in order to possess a firearm, but it's a great idea to take a course anyways. Contact your county sheriff's office and check if a course is offered. Courses will help you get familiar with a firearm and may include firing sessions at the range. Report a lost or stolen license. Contact your probate court within 48 hours of discovering you've lost your license. You can also get a replacement license if it is damaged. You'll have to pay a fee for a replacement. Use your Georgia license in other states. Georgia has reciprocity with 31 other states. You can legally carry in these states provided your Georgia license is valid. Visit this website to see a list of states: https://georgia.gov/popular-topic/applying-firearms-license. Renew on time. Georgia licenses are valid for five years. At least two months before the expiration, you should go to the county court and apply for a renewal. You'll have to pay a renewal fee. Contact your probate court for more information. If your license has already expired, you can still get it renewed so long as it has been expired for less than 30 days.	Meet the age requirement. Check if you have a felony conviction. Analyze if you have a disqualifying drug conviction. Check your other convictions. Ask for approval in some situations. Consult with an attorney if you have questions. Take proof of residency. Call your probate court to ask about fees. Complete an application at the probate court. Provide the court with a self-addressed envelope. Give fingerprints. Wait for processing. Keep the license with your firearms. Take a gun safety course. Report a lost or stolen license. Use your Georgia license in other states. Renew on time.
https://www.wikihow.com/Make-a-Reusable,-Inexpensive,-and-Efficient-Gravity-Bong	How to Make a Reusable, Inexpensive, and Efficient Gravity Bong	To make a reusable, inexpensive, and efficient gravity bong, you'll need a socket from a wrench set, a Blender bottle or cylindrical shaker, a small plastic water bottle, metal gauze, masking tape, and a knife. First, you'll need to wrap the socket in masking tape until it fits snugly in the top of your water bottle. Place the metal gauze inside the socket to make a bowl. Then, cut a small hole in the bottom of the water bottle. You want water to flow slowly but steadily out of the hole when it's filled. Finally, fill your shaker ¾ full with water and place the water bottle inside the shaker so it fills with water through the hole in the bottom. To use your new gravity bong, fill the bowl. Then, hold a lighter to your weed while raising the bottle slowly and steadily. When all the water has drained out of the bottle, lift off the bowl and inhale the smoke.	Identify the usable socket sizes. They are between ½” and 5/8”, or 12 to 15mm in diameter. Using the mouth of the water/soda bottle, test the fit of the socket. Wrap masking tape around the sides of the socket to make a sufficiently airtight seal. Add layers of tape as to ensure a snug fit. Place the metal gauze in the socket, to create a “bowl” for the tobacco. Cut a hole in the bottom of the water bottle. Pay special attention to the hole, and test it several times. If the hole is too big, water will flow out too quickly. The objective is to make the water flow out as slowly, but steadily as possible to ensure that the resulting smoke is at its densest, minimizing waste of the vacuum generated in the bottle. Place the water bottle in the shaker, and fill it with water. Load and place bowl in mouth of the bottle. Your bong is now ready to use. Grab mouth of bottle and get ready to pull up. Light contents of bowl while pulling up the bottle slowly, but steadily. Give time for the embers to spread. Once the bottle is drained of water or the bowl is done, pull off the bowl and inhale the contents of the bottle. Keep in mind that the resulting smoke will be very potent, so don't inhale too deeply. Push the bottle back down slowly, as pushing it down too quickly can result in splash damage. Load and place bowl in mouth of bottle. Repeat step 1.	Identify the usable socket sizes. Using the mouth of the water/soda bottle, test the fit of the socket. Wrap masking tape around the sides of the socket to make a sufficiently airtight seal. Add layers of tape as to ensure a snug fit. Place the metal gauze in the socket, to create a “bowl” for the tobacco. Cut a hole in the bottom of the water bottle. Place the water bottle in the shaker, and fill it with water. Load and place bowl in mouth of the bottle. Grab mouth of bottle and get ready to pull up. Light contents of bowl while pulling up the bottle slowly, but steadily. Once the bottle is drained of water or the bowl is done, pull off the bowl and inhale the contents of the bottle. Push the bottle back down slowly, as pushing it down too quickly can result in splash damage. Load and place bowl in mouth of bottle.
https://www.wikihow.com/Get-Back-at-a-Guy-for-Hurting-You	How to Get Back at a Guy for Hurting You	If you've been hurt badly by a guy, the best way to seek revenge is to work on yourself and learn to be happy without him. Try working out, taking care of yourself, and considering if you could forgive him. If you do want to seek petty revenge, you could sign him up for spam email or ignore his attempts to contact you. It's best to avoid any vindictive or aggressive acts, as this won't make you feel any better in the long term.	Post an unflattering picture of your ex on social media. You do not want to post anything incriminating or very embarrassing. However, an unflattering photo can be a great way to make your ex squirm a little. Go through old pictures you have of your ex. Does he look heavier in certain pictures? Do you have any where he's making a weird face? Find a few extremely unflattering photos. Post them to a social media site where you know he will see them. If you're still Facebook friends, for example, you can tag him in the photos so he'll get a notification about it. Sign him up for spam email. If you have his email address, sign him up to receive spam. Do not use services that will attempt to get his personal information. You do not want to do anything illegal. However, you can find spam sites that are simply annoying. You could sign him up for a daily horoscope, for example. You can also give out his emails to stores he would not be interested in. If your favorite makeup store asks for your email, give them your ex's address. This will spam his inbox with irrelevant promotions. Flirt with some of his friends. If you still see him at social events, try flirting a little with his friends. This may make him feel jealous or insecure. Strike up a conversation with a friend of his and behave flirtatiously. Casually brush the friend's arm, for example, while smiling and making eye contact. Be careful not to lead his friends on, however. It can be fun to get a little flirty, but you do not want someone to think you're interested in a relationship when you're not. Try some prank phone calls. Prank phone calls can be a fun and relatively harmless way to annoy your ex. Have a friend call him and pretend to be a credit card company inquiring about a late payment. You can also pretend to be a utility company threatening to shut off services. Try to stay quiet while your friend is making the call. If your ex hears you giggling in the background, he may figure out it's you. Embarrass him in front of a new romantic interest. If you see your ex is on a date, do something to embarrass him. You can go up to him and loudly ask him about something embarrassing he left at your apartment, for example. You could also pretend to politely introduce yourself and work in an embarrassing anecdote about your ex. Do not be mean to the new girl, however. Remember, your ex hurt you and not her. You do not want to take out your anger on someone who does not deserve it. Ignore him. This is a simple way to hurt your ex back. If he tries to contact you or maintain a friendship, you should simply ignore him. Do not return texts, emails, or phone calls. This will send a message that you're mad and have not forgiven him for mistreating you. Consider deleting him on social media. Many people feel stung if they find they've been de-friended or un-followed. Make sure the guy understands why you're angry. You may not feel better after seeking revenge if the guy doesn't understand why you're mad. The aim of revenge is to make someone see how they hurt you. Try to make this apparent so you actually feel better after getting back at the guy. There are many ways to make the guy understand why you're lashing out. You could tell him directly. For example, "I'm not returning your texts because of how you treated me." If you're not on speaking terms, you could try posting something on social media you will know he will see. Consider whether this is the right move. Do you really need to seek revenge? Before you take any action, carefully consider your motivations. What will you gain through trying to get back at this person? Revenge can actually increase anger rather than decreasing it. If you end up hurting your ex back, you may feel guilty, sad, or empty afterwards. Wait and consider your actions for awhile before lashing out. Make sure you know everything about the situation to make sure revenge is warranted. Think long and hard about whether you'll actually feel happier if you get back on the guy. Try to accept your urge for revenge is natural. However, remember that the anticipation may feel better than carrying out the act. You may be better off fantasizing about revenge than actually indulging in it. Start working out. If you're your best self in the wake of a breakup, this is a great means to revenge. You want your ex to feel like you only got better after he left. Start a workout regimen so you can look and feel better. Pick a form of exercise you enjoy that you're likely to stick to. If you love riding your bike, for example, start taking long bike rides a few times a week. Be careful getting into a new workout routine. Always talk to a doctor before starting a new program, and ease into any form of physical activity. You want to avoid strain. Take care of yourself. If you're reeling from heartbreak, this is important. You should accept what you're feeling and take some steps to cope with your own pain. Allow yourself to experience and deal with your emotions. If you need to feel pain, do so. If you need to cry, have a good, long cry. Do things that make you happy. Go out and see a movie with friends. Go visit your family. Sometimes, being happy can be a form of revenge in and of itself. Imagine your ex seeing happy social media posts of you thriving without him. That may hurt him more than any directly vindictive action on your part. Focus on the present. Live in the now rather than the past. Remember, you can't undo the past. You can, however, work on making the most of the present. It's natural to focus on the pain now and again. When you feel yourself doing so, find a way to gently pull yourself back into the present moment. Think to yourself, "That was then and this is now. I want to move forward." Think about all the good things in your life. Focus on your hobbies, your career, and your social life. Do not get sidetracked by petty thoughts. Consider forgiveness. After awhile of healing, you may want to think about forgiveness. Forgiving the person who hurt you may help you find closure. You don't have to agree with what the guy did to forgive him. You can simply acknowledge that negative actions do not make him a bad person overall. Think to yourself, "This guy made a mistake, like we all do. I'm ready to let it go." Remember, forgiveness is not a sign of weakness. It actually takes a lot of strength of character to forgive someone for hurting you. Write down your thoughts. Sometimes, letting someone know why and how they hurt you can make you feel like you got back at them. If possible, let your ex know you want to talk. A productive confrontation may make you feel better. Prior to the conversation, try to write down your thoughts. Write down how you feel and why. Try to find the best way to articulate how you were hurt. Focus on what you expect to get out of the situation. Do you want an apology? Do you want your ex to understand how he hurt you and feel bad? Release expectations. Expectations can skew how you behave. When you're hurt and angry, it can be especially difficult to control your emotions. If you go into the conversation expecting your ex to react a particular way, you may find yourself becoming angry or frustrated if things unfold differently. You want the conversation to flow naturally. You do not want to react with surprise or frustration if things unfold slightly different than you imagined. Go into the conversation acknowledging you're uncertain what will occur. This way, you'll be better equipped to handle unexpected turns. Use "I"-statements. "I"-statements are statements phrased in a way to reduce blame. They put focus on your feelings over an outside judgement of the situation. An "I"-statement has three parts. It begins with, "If feel..." after which you immediately state your feeling. From there, you state the action that led to that feeling. Lastly, you explain why you felt the way you did. For example, you may be inclined to say something like, "It was incredibly hurtful that you lied to me about needing time to yourself. You immediately started dating someone else. You could have just told me you weren't interested in me romantically." Rephrase the above sentiment using an "I"-statement. For example, "I felt incredibly hurt when you told me you didn't want to be in a relationship and then had a new girlfriend in a week because I wish you have been honest with me." Ask for an apology. An apology can really help make you feel better. It lessens the need for revenge and helps you forgive someone who hurt you. End the talk by politely asking for an apology. You can end the conversation by saying something like, "I know you maybe don't think you did anything wrong, but I need you to apologize." You will feel a lot better getting your feelings out and receiving an apology. Once your feelings are vindicated, you may be better equipped to move on.	Post an unflattering picture of your ex on social media. Sign him up for spam email. Flirt with some of his friends. Try some prank phone calls. Embarrass him in front of a new romantic interest. Ignore him. Make sure the guy understands why you're angry. Consider whether this is the right move. Start working out. Take care of yourself. Focus on the present. Consider forgiveness. Write down your thoughts. Release expectations. Use "I"-statements. Ask for an apology.
https://www.wikihow.com/Identify-an-American-Shorthair-Cat	How to Identify an American Shorthair Cat	To identify an American shorthair, look for a cat that has a large head, full cheeks, and short, pointed ears. You should also look for a medium-sized cat that has a muscular build and thick fur. Although American shorthairs come in a variety of colors, commonly they'll be tabby, tortoiseshell or calico colored. If it's an American shorthair it will also likely be cuddly, sociable, and enjoy spending time with you. Although they are sociable, Shorthairs are typically pretty quiet and won't meow as much as other cats.	Pay attention to a large head. American shorthairs have an uncommonly large head, particularly in relation to their body size. If you're trying to identify an American shorthair, see if the head seems a bit too large for the cat. Notice full cheeks. One defining characteristic of an American shorthair is a wide face, particularly in the cheeks. The cheeks should seem round and full, which can make the cat look happier. A narrow face is not characteristic of this breed. Look for short ears. American shorthairs tend to have shorter ears than other cat breeds. In addition, the ears tend to be pointed. Check the ears on the cat in question to see if they seem shorter than average. Check for a muscular body. American shorthairs were breed to be hearty, muscular cats. Their primary job early on in America was rodent control, particularly on farms. Therefore, over the years, they began to develop strong bodies, so look for sturdy cats with a muscular build. These cats will often have a full head and neck, as well as stout legs. Note thick winter fur. Obviously, a shorthair cat is going to have short hair. However, these cats also tend to develop hearty coats during the winter to protect themselves form harsh weather, so their coats will get thicker and longer. In addition, their fur isn't particularly soft, as its main purpose is protection. As far as coloring goes, they come in a wide variety of colors, from tabby to tortoiseshell and calico. Check the lineage. If you are looking for a purebred American shorthair, you need to look to the lineage, which is why using a reputable breeder is important. One of the defining characteristics of any cat breed is the fact that it can reproduce cats in the same breed, rather than a collection of different breeds. Check its weight. A male cat of this breed is typically 11 to 15 pounds. The female is a bit smaller, usually 6 to 12 pounds. This cat is a medium-sized breed, so it should look basically like an average-sized cat if you're trying to eyeball it. Look at the cat's height. As a medium-sized breed, American shorthairs are about average height. Most cats in this breed are 10 to 14 inches tall, so see if the cat is in that range when trying to identify the breed. Look for a sociable cat. If you're looking for a friendly, affectionate cat, it's hard to go wrong with this breed. They enjoy being around you, and they will cuddle with you when you're nearby. Plus, they don't mind being picked up. Note if the cat is low-maintenance. While American shorthairs are perfectly friendly, they are also fine being on their own. In other words, they aren't a cat that will be on top of you all the time. That means if you have a busy life, a shorthair may be a good option for you. While they are low-maintenance, they still enjoy play time with you. Try a game that has a bait on the end of a pole that you can make dance for your cat. Notice a quiet cat. American shorthairs will talk to you by meowing. However, they aren't especially noisy cats. They generally will show you what they want rather than talking to you. If you want a cat that will hold a "conversation" with you, this breed may not be for you, though it does depend on the cat, of course. See if the cat plays well with others. Because these cats are easy-going, they do well with families, including those with younger children. They are also usually fine with other pets in the household, including dogs. Look for a respectable breeder online. If you're looking to adopt a kitten, browse different American Shorthair breeders on the internet until you find one that seems legitimate. Avoid any breeders that let you have any kitten you want, have multiple litters up for adoption at once, and/or allow you to pay with a credit card online. Request pedigree documentation from the breeder. When purchasing a kitten from purebred parents, ask the breeder to show you the pedigree registration documents as an absolute means of identifying them as American Shorthairs. Any reputable breeder will have this documentation and be willing to give it to you. Have a DNA test done. Purchase a home DNA test for your kitten or cat so that you can identify it for certain. Collect a sample of cheek cells on a special swab and send it off to the reference lab to be analyzed. The company that you do this through will then give you a genetic breakdown of the cat's parentage. Go with a company that has a lot of information and DNA samples in order to ensure that you get the most accurate results.	Pay attention to a large head. Notice full cheeks. Look for short ears. Check for a muscular body. Note thick winter fur. Check the lineage. Check its weight. Look at the cat's height. Look for a sociable cat. Note if the cat is low-maintenance. Notice a quiet cat. See if the cat plays well with others. Look for a respectable breeder online. Request pedigree documentation from the breeder. Have a DNA test done.
https://www.wikihow.com/Install-Outdoor-Lighting	How to Install Outdoor Lighting	To install outdoor lighting, first, dig a trench about 3 inches deep along the route your electrical wires will follow from the transformer to the lights. You don't want to accidentally sever any cable or phone lines as you do this, so call your utility companies to have them identify any underground lines they may have put near your home. After digging your trench, strip the end of the cable and attach the 2 exposed wires to the terminal screws located at the bottom of the transformer box. Once those screws are tightened, drive a stake into the ground near an outdoor outlet and screw the transformer onto the stake. Next, connect your light fixtures to the main cable, attach them each to a stake, and push them into the ground. Finally, plug your transformer into the outlet to test your new lights!	Mark the route that you’ll run your electric cable along. Identify the spots in your yard where you want your light fixtures to be located, as well as where you'll set up your transformer box. Use string or spray paint to plot a route that takes an electric cable from the transformer to each of the light fixtures you'll install. This will allow you to plan ahead of time where you'll dig and bury the cable. Try to steer clear of placing the route near any trees, since they'll likely have shallow roots that will interfere with the installation process. Plan on setting up your transformer box next to an outdoor electrical outlet. Contact the power company to have them identify any underground lines. Call the telephone company and cable company as well, if you have these services in your home. You'll need to make sure you're not going to sever any important cables running underground when you start digging along the cable route. If you live in the United States, you can call 811 to be put in touch with your local utility company. Have the company mark the locations of any underground utilities in your yard so that you won't accidentally dig into them. Dig a shallow trench along your wiring route. Use a ditch-witch or a trenching shovel to dig this trench about 3 inches (7.6 cm) deep. You may need to use the shovel to turn over any sod or grass on your lawn first. Using a ditch-witch or trenching shovel is ideal since these tools will give you a more narrow trench. You don't want to have to move a bunch of loose dirt around during this installation process. Don't worry about the width of the trench; just make it as wide as the width of your shovel. Place the cable in the trench without burying it. Leave about 1 foot (0.30 m) of loose cable on the end next to the transformer, since you'll need to attach the wiring to the box. Leave a small loop at each planned fixture location as well, so you can connect the wiring to the fixture. Make sure you can push the cable all the way down to the bottom of the trench, so that it won't jut out of the trench when you go to bury it. Run the cable up to the outdoor outlet and strip the end of it. Use wire strippers to cut the end of the cable and remove about ⁄ 2 inch (1.3 cm) of rubber insulation. This should leave 2 wires exposed. You can also use a utility knife to strip the wire, although it will be much easier to use the wire strippers. If the cable has cable nuts, remove them before stripping it. Attach the 2 exposed wires from the cable to the transformer box. Slide the wires under the 2 screws (called terminal screws) located on the bottom of the transformer box. Then, use a screwdriver to tighten the top and bottom terminal block set screws to attach the wires to the box. The inside of the transformer box should include guidelines and brief instructions on how to safely attach these wires to the box. Be sure the screws are tightened all the way to prevent the wires from sliding out. Drive a stake into the ground and attach the transformer to it. Hammer a sturdy wooden stake about 1 foot (0.30 m) into the ground next to the outlet. Then, use the screwdriver to screw the transformer box into the stake to attach it. You can also mount the box onto the side of your house if you have wooden or vinyl siding. Use a screwdriver to drive a screw through the back of the box and into the siding. Place your fixtures about where you intend to install them. Lay the light fixtures alongside your cable, keeping them about 8 to 10 feet (2.4 to 3.0 m) apart from one another. Don't worry about how they look just yet; it's fine to just lay them on the ground! Dig a narrow hole on the spot where you plan to put 1 of the fixtures. Use your screwdriver or a long steel punch to make a deep, narrow hole for the light fixture's stake. Make the depth of the hole the same as the length of the stake. Doing this will make it much easier for you to drive the stake into the ground later on. Your light fixtures should have come with stakes, if you purchased them from a store. If you don't have one of these stakes, buy some metal stakes that are about 8 to 10 inches (20 to 25 cm) long to use instead. Connect the fixture wires to the main cable. Take the 2 connector halves hanging from the bottom of the light fixture and slip them over the cable. Then, pinch them together until you hear a click. This is the sound of the connectors making a connection with the wires inside the cable. Be sure the cable is not hooked up to a power source when you go to connect it to the light fixture. Attach the fixture to the stake, then push the stake into the ground. Use both hands to grip the stake (with the fixture attached to it) and push it into the narrow hole you dug for it. Don't try to hammer it into the ground, since this may damage the light. You will most likely just have to snap the fixture onto the stake. However, some manufacturers ask that you use a screw and screwdriver to attach the two. Check to make sure the fixture is vertically straight after you insert it into the ground. If it isn't straight, pull it out and reinsert it. Repeat this process for all the other light fixtures. Hook up each fixture to the main cable, then attach them to stakes and push them into the ground. Make sure they're all aligned the way you want them to be and that they're all straight before proceeding. Plug the transformer into the outlet to test your lights. If any of the lights don't come on, check to see that the bulb is correctly screwed in. If the bulb is good but the light still doesn't come on, it's most likely a problem with the wiring. If the lights are dim, this means they're not getting enough electricity. Make sure the cable isn't running beyond the manufacturer's recommended length. Bury all of the exposed wiring. Use your shovel to replace all of the dirt that you displaced to create your cable trench. Place some loose soil around the light fixtures to hide the wires coming out of them as well, if necessary.	Mark the route that you’ll run your electric cable along. Contact the power company to have them identify any underground lines. Dig a shallow trench along your wiring route. Place the cable in the trench without burying it. Run the cable up to the outdoor outlet and strip the end of it. Attach the 2 exposed wires from the cable to the transformer box. Drive a stake into the ground and attach the transformer to it. Place your fixtures about where you intend to install them. Dig a narrow hole on the spot where you plan to put 1 of the fixtures. Connect the fixture wires to the main cable. Attach the fixture to the stake, then push the stake into the ground. Repeat this process for all the other light fixtures. Plug the transformer into the outlet to test your lights. Bury all of the exposed wiring.
https://www.wikihow.com/Make-a-Scarecrow	How to Make a Scarecrow	To make a scarecrow, start by nailing or gluing two long pieces of wood together to make a t-shaped frame. Then, put a shirt on the frame and stuff it with straw, rags, or wood chips. Once it's stuffed, make a hole in the seat of some overalls and put them on the frame to make legs. Next, sew or tape on gloves and boots to look like hands and feet. Finally, fill a burlap sack with plastic bags or more straw and put it on top of the frame to make a head.	Build the frame. Begin by centering a 5 foot (1.5 m) stick near the top of a 6 to 8 foot (1.8 to 2.4 m) stick, rake handle or garden pole. This creates the shoulders of the scarecrow. Fasten the shorter stick in place using a screwdriver and screw, some twine, or hot glue. Put the shirt on. Dress your scarecrow with an old plaid shirt, using the horizontal stick for his arms. Button the shirt up the front, then tie the arm ends and bottom of the shirt using twine or wire. Stuff the shirt. Strategically stuff the shirt to fill out your scarecrow. Straw, hay, leaves, grass clippings, wood chips and rags are all acceptable stuffing materials. Try to avoid using newspaper to stuff your scarecrow, however, as rainfall may cause it to become soggy and shapeless. Use extra stuffing to give your scarecrow a potbelly if desired. Put the overalls on. Make a hole in the seat of the overalls for the vertical stick to pass through. Put the overalls on the scarecrow, placing the straps on the shoulders. Tie the cuffs with twine or wire. Fill out the legs of the overalls using the same stuffing as you used for the shirt. Give him hands. Old fashioned scarecrows had straw sticking out the cuffs of the shirt sleeves, but to make a more realistic human form, you can use old work gloves or gardening gloves. Fill the gloves with enough stuffing to keep them in shape, tuck in the ends of the shirt sleeves, then secure with wire or twine. Give him feet. Stick the cuffs of the pants into the tops of some old work boots, or other shoes. Secure using either string sewn into each component, or hot melt glue. Alternatively, try using double sided tape, such as carpet tape, to attach the boots. Whatever method you use, make sure the attachment is secure, or your scarecrow will lose his feet. Using burlap. A burlap sack, used to protect trees, or carry potatoes and coffee beans, is perfect for making a scarecrow head. To make a burlap head: Stuff one plastic grocery bag full of other plastic bags until you have the right size for a head. Place the bag in the center of a piece of burlap then cut a wide circle around it. There is no need to measure it or cut a perfect circle. Gather the burlap around the plastic bag, and place on top of the vertical pole (the scarecrow's neck) before tying tightly with twine or wire. Using a pumpkin. Use a jack o' lantern to make a seasonal scarecrow head. First, choose a nice, round pumpkin. Cut a large, round hole on the top of the pumpkin (around the stem) and scoop out the insides. Use a sharp knife to cut out the facial features of your scarecrow. Skewer the bottom of the pumpkin onto the scarecrows neck and secure with glue or tape if necessary. Do not place a candle inside the pumpkin as you normally do with jack o' lanterns. The rest of the material used to make your scarecrow is flammable. Other vegetables, such as gourds and turnips, could also be used for this purpose. Be aware that pumpkins and other vegetables will eventually rot, so if you want your scarecrow head to last longer, consider using an alternative method. Using a pillowcase. A pillowcase is another option for making a scarecrow head and is something which you are likely to have around the house. To make your scarecrow head with a pillowcase: Half fill the pillowcase with straw or the stuffing material of your choice. Pin the pillowcase with safety pins to prevent the stuffing from falling out the bottom, but don't close the bottom up entirely. Insert your scarecrow head onto the vertical pole (neck of the scarecrow). Push until the top of the pole is at the top of the pillowcase, right through the straw. Secure the pillowcase to the pole using twine or wire, then cut off the excess material and remove the safety pins. Using other household items. The are any number of possibilities when it comes to making your scarecrow's head. If you're trying to keep the cost of building your scarecrow down to a minimum, just use whatever items you have lying around. Here are some ideas: Pantyhose. Select a natural skin tone pair of pantyhose. Cut the upper part of the leg off on one side, tie a knot in it, and fill it with stuffing, letting it taper to a "neck" before tying the other (lower) end onto the vertical pole. Bucket. Impale a bucket filled with dirt right-side-up on the scarecrow's neck, for an unconventional yet functional head. Milk jugs. One-gallon plastic milk jugs are another great choice for scarecrow heads. Their smooth surface is perfect for drawing facial features on and is waterproof. You're also sure to have one or two lying around the house. Again, just impale on the vertical pole, and secure with glue or tape if necessary. Give your scarecrow facial features. You can give your scarecrow facial features using an endless array of materials. Decide whether you want him to look smiling and happy or grumpy and menacing. Here are some ideas: Draw on his eyes, nose and mouth using a black magic marker. Cut out triangular shapes from pieces of colored felt for eyes and nose. You can sew them on or attach with hot glue. Use different sized or colored buttons for eyes, nose and mouth. Sew on or attach with hot glue. Use bits of black plastic or pipe cleaner to make eyebrows. Slant them downwards to make an angry scarecrow. Give your scarecrow some hair. Glue some straw to your scarecrows head to give the effect of hair. Don't worry about making it look neat, he's supposed to look scary, after all! Alternatively, glue an old wig to his head or use an old mop. Accessorize. You can personalize your scarecrow by accessorizing it any way you like. His most important accessory, however, is a straw hat. Use any old hat you have lying around and secure to his head with hot glue. Here are some other (optional) accessorizing ideas: Tie a red bandana around his color, or leave a bright handkerchief peeking out of his pocket. Jazz up his hat using some brightly colored plastic flowers. Stick an old pipe in his mouth. Tie reflective or shiny ribbon to your scarecrow to add movement and reflect light. Finished.	Build the frame. Put the shirt on. Stuff the shirt. Put the overalls on. Give him hands. Give him feet. Using burlap. Using a pumpkin. Using a pillowcase. Using other household items. Give your scarecrow facial features. Give your scarecrow some hair. Accessorize. Finished.
https://www.wikihow.com/Do-a-Rabona	How to Do a Rabona	To do the Rabona, start by planting your weaker foot next to the ball so it's on the outside of your non-kicking foot. Then, lean back with your arms out to create good balance, and swing your kicking foot around behind your planted leg. As you swing your foot around, bring it up towards your bottom. Just before you strike the ball, curl your foot so you kick the ball with the outside of your boot, which will increase your shot's power. To follow through, lift both feet off the ground and turn your shoulders to face the target.	Determine your kicking foot. Your kicking foot will usually be your dominant foot. For most people, your dominant foot is correlative with your dominant hand, meaning that if you're right-handed you will kick with your right foot. However, that isn't always the case. Some people are right-handed but kick with the left foot, or vice versa, and some people are ambidextrous, meaning they can alternate fluidly between using the right and left hand or foot. Though you may favor one foot over the other, studies have shown that both dominant and non-dominant feet are capable of equal kicking strength. Find which foot you are more comfortable with, and build up the balance and muscle strength to rely on that foot. Plant your weaker foot next to the ball. It is important that your non-dominant foot remains firmly planted on the ground. This sets up your entire posture and range of movement for the kick. The positioning and firmness of your planted foot also helps your body maintain balance during the kick. Check your position. The ball should be sitting on the outside of your non-kicking foot. If you are going to kick with the right foot, then the ball should be about one foot (20-30 cm) to the outside (left) of your left foot. If you are going to kick with the left foot, then the ball should be to the outside of your right foot. The distance between your dominant foot and the ball ensures that you get a long wind-up for the kick, creating more power in your shot. Your planted foot needs to be facing the target in order to ensure an accurate shot. If you have trouble making clean contact with the ball then your planted foot is probably too close to the ball or too far in front of the ball. Make sure that it is in the right position. Lean back with arms outstretched. This is important, as it gives you the balance you need to execute the kick. Your body should be leaning slightly backwards and to the side away from the ball when you strike. This helps you to maintain balance and gain power and lift with your kick. Focus on the spot on the ball where you would like to hit. Look at a spot towards the underside of the ball when aiming. This is a very difficult shot so it is important to strike accurately. Keep your eyes on the ball at all times. Striking the ball on the underside helps create lift and height on your shot. Swing your kicking foot around behind your planted leg. As you swing your dominant leg around behind your planted leg, try to bring your foot all the way up to your bottom by bending your knee. Lifting your foot as high as possible will greatly increase the power of your strike. Keep your non-kicking leg slightly bent to maintain balance and to help you strike the ball cleanly. Try to use as big of a windup as possible. Curl your foot as you swing your leg around. You should be striking the ball with the outside of your foot. When you kick with the top outside part of your soccer boot, your kick gains power and accuracy. Turn your shoulders to face the target as you follow through. The follow through can be particularly difficult for the rabona because your non-kicking leg will be in the way. It can sometimes help to lift both feet off the ground as you complete your strike. Be sure your kick makes contact with the bottom of the ball. Kicking the underside of the ball helps to provide lift and height on your shot. Ensure that you make contact with the ball in one smooth motion. The rabona should feel natural and comfortable. If you are having trouble getting lift and height on the ball, then you are probably hitting the top or middle of the ball. Make sure you are making contact with the underside of the ball and practice until striking the bottom of the ball becomes comfortable. Strengthen your core muscles. The rabona relies on a strong core to maintain balance and generate enough power as you twist to strike the ball. Strengthen your core by completing abs and back exercises such as sit-ups and planks. Practice often. The rabona is a very difficult shot that can take months and even years to master. As you practice, this move will feel more comfortable, and you will become a better player for your efforts. Try the rabona while in motion. It will take a while to master the rabona from a stationary position, but once you've gotten it down you'll need to build the move into a usable soccer technique, and that means being able to do it in motion. Slowly dribble towards your target and then attempt the rabona. It may feel different to attempt this shot while in motion but make sure your technique is the same as when the ball was in one place. Check that your feet are placed correctly and that you maintain balance through the strike. Try to gain additional speed. Once you can complete the rabona while in motion work on increasing your speed. Try dribbling the ball at a run before completing the rabona. You can also start trying the rabona from different angles to become more fluid in your movements and turn this trick into a useful game skill. Work on accuracy. Set up four cones as a square target for practicing your aim. Continue practicing the rabona until you can reliably kick the ball so that it lands in this square. Once you can reliably use a rabona to kick the ball into the square made of cones, try aiming into a trashcan. This is a much harder target that will help you to perfect your aim and create a more accurate lift with the rabona. Learn different uses for the rabona. The rabona can be used if you are on the wrong side of the ball or are at an awkward angle from which to shoot. The rabona is also useful when you do not have much space in which to attempt a shot or pass. Use the rabona to trick the defense or goalie. The rabona can also be used as a fake for goalies or defense. For example, the defense or goalie may think you are going to shoot with your left foot but you instead complete a rabona with your right foot. This can get the goalie's or defense's weight shifted in the wrong direction, opening up space for your shot or pass. Work on adding a fake to the beginning of your rabona. If you want to complete a rabona using your right foot as the kicking foot, then stop the ball with your right foot. Draw the ball backwards with your right foot towards the outside of your left foot and then swing your right foot around to the backside. This fake will trick the defense or goalie and open up space for your kick.	Determine your kicking foot. Plant your weaker foot next to the ball. Check your position. Lean back with arms outstretched. Focus on the spot on the ball where you would like to hit. Swing your kicking foot around behind your planted leg. Curl your foot as you swing your leg around. Turn your shoulders to face the target as you follow through. Be sure your kick makes contact with the bottom of the ball. Strengthen your core muscles. Practice often. Try the rabona while in motion. Try to gain additional speed. Work on accuracy. Learn different uses for the rabona.
https://www.wikihow.pet/Care-for-Yorkipoos	How to Care for Yorkipoos	To care for your Yorkipoo, feed it dog food that's specially made to get rid of plaque and bacteria, since this breed is known to have dental problems. Another way you can help your dog avoid dental issues is to take it in for a professional teeth cleaning once a year, too. When it comes to grooming, you should brush your Yorkipoo's coat at least once a week so it stays tangle free. If your dog's coat takes after its Poodle side, you might want to also bring your pup to a professional groomer every 4 to 6 weeks to keep it looking good and healthy. Since Yorkipoos are a mixed breed, remember to consult your vet about any potential health problems that can affect Yorkies and Poodle breeds.	Commit to training your Yorkipoo. Start training your Yorkipoo as soon as you get your dog. You'll need to spend the time teaching your Yorkipoo house rules (like where to toilet), as well as any behavioral rules that are important to you (like no jumping on people). If you don't think you'll have time to train during the first three to six months that you own your Yorkipoo, rethink your decision to adopt one. One animal shelter study showed that 21% of the people surrendering their dogs gave them up because of the time, money, and effort required. The biggest reason dogs end up in animal shelters is because of bad behavior. Socialize your Yorkipoo. Take your Yorkipoo on car rides, visits to parks, and short walks around the neighborhood. Just make sure he's had his first set of vaccinations before exposing him to others. He should interact with men, women and children in a positive way so he isn't scared of a certain sex or size of people. You may want to enroll your Yorkipoo in an obedience training or puppy socialization class. Ask your veterinarian or local pet store to recommend one. Avoid bringing home a Yorkipoo if you have very young children. This is more to protect your Yorkipoo, which can be accidentally injured because of his small size. Use reward-based training. One of the best ways to teach basic commands is to use the reward-based training system. To do so, reward your dog when he obeys the command or makes a move in the right direction. Try offering a small food reward for obedience. Make sure you're consistent in your expectations and rewards. Never reward bad behavior. Don't forget that verbal praise is also a reward for your dog. Teach your dog basic commands. You'll probably want your dog to respond to simple commands like "stay", "sit", or "down". Choose a training time when you have your Yorkipoo's full attention. Show your dog a treat, work with him while stating the command, and immediately reward obedience or positive efforts. For example, to teach your dog how to sit have him stand in front of you. Make sure he's paying attention and sees that you have a treat between your fingers. Once he focuses on the treat, hold it a few inches above his head and slowly move it back between his ears. He'll naturally follow it back and begin to sit. Tell him to "sit" as he does this and immediately give him the treat, saying "good, sit" at the same time. Talk with the breeder about your Yorkipoo's health. Make sure your Yorkipoo's breeder has had your Yorkipoo examined by a veterinarian at six weeks of age. Your Yorkipoo should also already have his first distemper shot and a dewormer to kill internal parasites. Ask for a bill or invoice from the veterinarian to ensure these were done and always work with a reputable dog breeder. Get your dog regular veterinary care. Your Yorkipoo will need another dose of dewormer two weeks after his initial treatment. This will kill any residual worms. Your Yorkipoo will also need a distemper booster 3 to 4 weeks after the initial distemper shot. If your dog is over a year old, he'll need an annual exam and vaccine booster. Once he's 10 years of age, he'll need two exams a year. If your Yorkipoo is a puppy, make sure to follow this veterinary schedule: 8 weeks of age: Heartworm preventative (then once a month during heartworm season or depending on your veterinarian's recommendation) 9 weeks of age: Lyme vaccine 12 weeks of age: Lyme booster, Rabies vaccine 6 months of age: Spay or neuter Get your dog used to teeth brushing. Place a small bit of dog toothpaste on your finger and let him lick it off. Place a little toothpaste on the toothbrush and wipe it along his gums. Once he's comfortable with that, place some toothpaste on the brush and rub it along the gums and outer surfaces of the outer teeth. Work your way up to being able to brush the outer surfaces of all the teeth. You don't need to try to brush the inner teeth since most plaque attacks the outer teeth. Get professional dental care. The veterinarian will check your Yorkipoo's teeth at his annual exam. Even with daily brushing, your Yorkipoo may need a professional cleaning to remove bacteria and plaque which collects under the gums. Consider taking your Yorkipoo for a professional cleaning once every year or so. When you brush your Yorkipoo's teeth, always check for any sores, growths in the mouth, or loose teeth. If you find any, take your dog to the vet for an exam. Be aware of potential health problems. Since the Yorkipoo is a mixed breed, he's susceptible to the same health problems which affect Yorkie and Poodle breeds. Discuss any health concerns with the veterinarian. Keep in mind that your Yorkipoo may be prone to the following: Dental problems: Gum disease and bad breath are common since it's difficult to clean inside the Yorkipoo's tiny mouth. Injuries: Mishandling a Yorkipoo can cause injury because the dog is so tiny. Watch him around small children or larger dogs. Keep your Yorkipoo on a leash and by your side when you're out. Patellar (kneecap) luxation: The kneecap slips out of place in varying degrees. Some dogs are mildly affected while others are crippled and need surgery. Collapsing trachea: The trachea collapses in varying degrees. This is usually caused by pressure from pulling on collars. Legg-Calve-Perthes Disease: A problem with blood supply to the thigh bone where it meets the pelvis can cause limping and muscle atrophy. Surgery can treat this disease. Choose a high-quality food. Purchase a commercial dog food that lists meat as one of the first two ingredients on the nutrition label. Avoid products that are full of meat by-products or filler. Since Yorkipoo's are known for having dental problems, look for a food that's formulated to grind plaque and bacteria off the teeth. You can also ask your veterinarian to recommend the right food for your Yorkipoo. Always offer your dog fresh, clean water throughout the day. If you'd like to make your own dog food, consider developing a diet with an animal nutrition professional. This ensures that your dog is getting a balanced diet with all the nutrients he needs. Offer treats sparingly. To keep your Yorkipoo a healthy weight, keep snacks to a minimum. When you do want to reward your dog, give him a few pieces of his normal dog food (especially dental foods), low-calorie dog treats, baby carrots, or a few low-sodium canned green beans. Keep in mind there are some human foods that you should never your Yorkipoo since they can make your dog sick or can kill him. Avoid giving your dog: Alcohol Avocados Chocolate Grapes and raisins Macadamia nuts Fatty meat scraps Cooked bones or chicken bones in general Onions, garlic and chives Yeast dough Xylitol (found in sugar-free foods, including some peanut butters) Groom your dog's coat. Your Yorkipoo's coat will depend on whether he takes after his Poodle or Yorkie parent. Brush your dog's coat at least once a week to keep his fur clear of tangles and mats. If he takes after his poodle parent, you'll probably need to take him to a professional groomer every 4 to 6 weeks for a proper trim. Don't forget to check your dog's coat for fleas, ticks, lumps, bumps, cysts, scabs, scratches, or redness. Treat your dog for any fleas or ticks. Monitor any skin irritation and contact the vet if you're concerned. Trim your Yorkipoo's nails. Look at your dog's nails every week to see if they're getting long. You'll probably only need to clip them once or twice a month. If they need trimming, clip just the tips. Take care to avoid cutting the quick (the part of the nail where blood vessels and sensitive nerves grow). The quick appears as a pink triangle on white nails. It may be harder to find on dark nails, so ask a veterinary technician to show you how to trim dark nails.	Commit to training your Yorkipoo. Socialize your Yorkipoo. Use reward-based training. Teach your dog basic commands. Talk with the breeder about your Yorkipoo's health. Get your dog regular veterinary care. Get your dog used to teeth brushing. Get professional dental care. Be aware of potential health problems. Choose a high-quality food. Offer treats sparingly. Groom your dog's coat. Trim your Yorkipoo's nails.
https://www.wikihow.com/Recognize-Spinal-Meningitis-Symptoms	How to Recognize Spinal Meningitis Symptoms	To recognize spinal meningitis, watch for common symptoms like severe, persistent headaches, vomiting, nausea, high fever, stiff neck, difficulty concentrating, and light sensitivity. If you experience these symptoms, contact your doctor as soon as possible since spinal meningitis can be life-threatening if it's not treated. You might also experience seizures, in which case you should call emergency services. If you develop a blotchy, reddish or purple rash, press a clear drinking glass against it and watch to see what color it turns. If your skin doesn't turn white underneath the glass, it could be a sign of blood poisoning associated with spinal meningitis, and you should go to the hospital immediately.	Watch for a severe headache. Headaches caused by inflammation of the meninges, the membranes surrounding the brain and spinal cord, feel different from other types of headaches. They're much more severe than a headache you'd get from dehydration or even a migraine. A persistent, severe headache is commonly felt by people with meningitis. A meningitis headache won't ease up after taking over the counter pain pills. If a severe headache is felt without the presence of other common meningitis symptoms, the cause of the headache may be another illness. If the headache persists for more than a day or so, see a doctor. Look for vomiting and nausea associated with the headache. Migraines often lead to vomiting and nausea, so these symptoms don't automatically point to meningitis. However, it's important to pay close attention to other symptoms if you or the person you're concerned about is feeling sick enough to vomit. Check for a fever. A high fever , along with these other symptoms, could indicate that the problem is meningitis, rather than the flu or strep throat. Take the temperature of the person who is sick to determine whether a high fever is on the list of symptoms. The fever related to meningitis is generally around 101 degrees, and any fever over 103 Fahrenheit is cause for concern. Determine whether the neck is stiff and sore. This is a very common symptom among those who have meningitis. The stiffness and soreness is caused by pressure from the inflamed meninges. If you or someone you know has a sore neck that doesn't seem to be related to other common causes of soreness and stiffness, like pulling a muscle or getting whiplash, meningitis might be the culprit. If this symptom arises, have the person lie flat on his back and ask him to bend or flex his hips. When they do this, it should cause pain in the neck. This is a sign of meningitis. Watch for concentration difficulties. Since the membranes around the brain become inflamed with meningitis, cognitive difficulties commonly occur among meningitis patients. The inability to finish reading an article, focus on a conversation, or complete a task, paired with a severe headache, could be a warning sign. He may not act himself and be overall more drowsy and lethargic than usual. In rare cases, this can make the person anywhere from barely rousable to comatose. Notice photophobia. Photophobia is an intense pain caused by light. Eye pain and eye sensitivity are associated with meningitis in adults. If you or someone you know has trouble going outside or being in a room with bright lights, see your doctor. This may manifest by a general sensitivity or fear of bright lights at first. Watch for this behavior if other symptoms occur as well. Look for seizures. Seizures are uncontrollable muscle movements, often violent in nature, which usually cause loss of bladder control and general disorientation. The person who underwent a seizure likely may not know what year it is, where they are, or how old they are right after the seizure is over. If the person has epilepsy or a history of seizures, they may not be a symptom of meningitis. If you encounter someone having a seizure, call 911. Roll them on their side and move any objects that he may hit themselves on away from the area. Most seizures stop on their own within one to two minutes. Look for the tell-tale rash. Certain types of meningitis, such as meningococcal meningitis, cause a rash to occur. The rash is reddish or purple and blotchy, and may be a sign of blood poisoning. If you see a rash, you can determine whether it was caused by meningitis by conducting the glass test: Press a glass against the rash. Use a clear glass so you can see the skin through it. If the skin under the glass does not turn white, this indicates that blood poisoning may have occurred. Go to the hospital immediately. Not all types of meningitis have a rash. The absence of a rash should not be taken as a sign that a person does not have meningitis. Be aware of the challenges. The diagnosis of meningitis in children, especially infants, is a diagnostic challenge, even to experienced pediatricians. Since so many benign and self-limited viral syndromes present similarly, with fever and a crying child, it can be hard to distinguish meningitis symptoms in small children and infants. This leads many hospital protocols and individual clinicians to have a very high suspicion for meningitis, especially for those children 3 months and younger who have only received one set in their series of vaccines. With good vaccination compliance, the number of cases of bacterial meningitis have decreased. Viral meningitis still presents but presentation is mild and self-limited, with minimal care needed. Check for a high fever. Infants, like adults and children, develop a high fever with meningitis. Check your baby's temperature to determine if a fever is present. Whether or not meningitis is the cause, you should take your baby to the doctor if he or she has a fever. Watch for constant crying. This can be caused by many illnesses and other issues, but if your baby seems especially upset and won't be calmed by changing, feeding, and other measures you usually take, you should call the doctor. In combination with other symptoms, constant crying may be a sign of meningitis. Crying caused by meningitis usually can't be comforted. Look for differences in the baby's normal crying patterns. Some parents report that babies become even more upset when they are picked up if meningitis is the issue. Meningitis may cause babies to produce a cry that is higher-pitched than normal. Look for sleepiness and inactivity. A sluggish, sleepy, irritable baby who is usually active may have meningitis. Look for noticeable behavioral differences that point to lower consciousness and an inability to fully wake up. Pay attention to weak sucking during feedings. Babies with meningitis have a reduced ability to make the sucking motion during feeding. If your baby is having trouble sucking, call the doctor immediately. Watch for changes in the baby's neck and body. If the baby seems to have trouble moving his or her head, and his or her body looks unusually rigid and stiff, this could be a sign of meningitis. The child may also feel pain around their neck and back. It may be simple stiffness at first, but if the child seems in pain when moved, it may be more severe. Watch to see if she automatically brings her feet up to her chest when you bend their neck forward or is she has pain when her legs are bent. She may also be unable to straighten her lower legs if her hips are at a 90 degree angle. This presents in infants most often when their diapers are changed and you cannot pull their legs out. Learn about viral meningitis. Viral meningitis is usually self limited and goes away on its own. There are a few specific viruses such as the herpes simplex virus (HSV) and HIV that require specific goal directed therapy with antiviral drugs. Viral meningitis is spread person to person contact. A groups of viruses called enterovirus is the primary source and occur most typically in the late summer to early fall. Despite it being possible to be spread by person to person contact, outbreaks of viral meningitis are rare. Know about Streptococcus pneumoniae. There are three kinds of bacteria that cause bacterial meningitis, which is the most worrisome and lethal. Streptococcus pneumoniae is the most common form to strike infants, young children, and adults in the US. There is a vaccine for this bacteria, however, so it is curable. It is spread most commonly from a sinus or ear infection and should be suspected when a person with a prior sinus or ear infection develops symptoms of meningitis. Certain people are at higher risk, such as those who do not have spleens and those who are older. Vaccination for these individuals is protocol. Understand Neisseria meningitidis. Another bacteria that causes bacterial meningitis is Neisseria meningitidis. This is a highly contagious form that afflicts otherwise healthy adolescents and young adults. It is spread person to person and outbreaks occur in schools or dorms. It is particularly lethal, leading to multi-organ failure, brain damage, and death if not rapidly identified and started on intravenous antibiotics. It also has the distinction of causing a “petechial” rash, meaning a rash that looks like lots of tiny bruises, and this is an important distinction to note. Vaccination is recommended for all adolescents 11 to 12 years of age, with a booster at age 16. If no prior vaccine was given and the patient is 16, only one vaccination is required. Learn about Haemophilus influenza (Hib). The third bacteria that causes bacterial meningitis is Haemophilus influenza. This used to be a very common cause of bacterial meningitis in infants and children. However, since a Hib vaccination protocol has been introduced, rates have dropped dramatically. With the combination of immigrants from other countries that don't follow routine vaccination or even parents who do not believe in vaccination, not all are protected against this form. Obtaining an accurate vaccination history, preferably from the actual medical record or yellow vaccine card, is critical when this, or any, form of meningitis is considered. Know about fungal meningitis. Fungal meningitis is rare and seen almost exclusively in those with AIDS or others with weakened immune systems. It is one of the AIDS defining diagnoses, occurring when the person has very little immunity, is exceedingly fragile, and is at risk for most any infection. The typical culprit is Cryptococcus. The optimal prevention in an HIV infected individual is compliance with antiretroviral therapy to keep viral loads low and T cells high to protect from this type of infection. Take advantage of meningitis vaccines if necessary. It is recommended that the following groups with high risk of contracting meningitis have routine vaccinations: All children ages 11-18 U.S. military recruits Anyone who has a damaged spleen or whose spleen has been removed College freshmen living in dormitories Microbiologists exposed to meningococcal bacteria Anyone who has terminal complement component deficiency (an immune system disorder) Anyone traveling to countries which have an outbreak of meningococcal disease Those who might have been exposed to meningitis during an outbreak	Watch for a severe headache. Look for vomiting and nausea associated with the headache. Check for a fever. Determine whether the neck is stiff and sore. Watch for concentration difficulties. Notice photophobia. Look for seizures. Look for the tell-tale rash. Be aware of the challenges. Check for a high fever. Watch for constant crying. Look for sleepiness and inactivity. Pay attention to weak sucking during feedings. Watch for changes in the baby's neck and body. Learn about viral meningitis. Know about Streptococcus pneumoniae. Understand Neisseria meningitidis. Learn about Haemophilus influenza (Hib). Know about fungal meningitis. Take advantage of meningitis vaccines if necessary.
https://www.wikihow.com/Make-a-Pirate-Hat	How to Make a Pirate Hat	To make a pirate hat out of a sheet of newspaper, start by unfolding your sheet of paper and spreading it out on a flat surface. Fold your paper in half horizontally. Then, bring the top right corner to the center, making a triangle. Repeat this step with the top left corner. Now that you have two triangles, fold the top layer of the bottom half of the paper up to the bottom edge of the triangle, turn the hat over, and do the same with the remaining flap. If you want to decorate your hat, draw a skull and crossbones or print one out and glue it on.	Find a sheet of newspaper. Unfold the sheet of newspaper and spread it out on a flat surface. Make sure you have enough room to work. A solid sheet of newspaper makes for a large pirate hat. If you'd like a smaller hat, try cutting off about ⁄ 4 inch (0.6 cm) from one of the edges. Fold your paper in half horizontally. Keep the corners matched up so your hat is nice and even. Run your finger along the fold to make a good crease in your paper. If you're working with kids, try telling them to fold "hamburger" style to make sure they get the fold right. Bring the corners to the center. Take the top right corner of the paper and bring it to the center of the newspaper making a triangle. Do the same thing with the other corner. You should have two triangles now, with the vertical edges lined up in the middle of the paper. For a good hat, try to keep the edges straight. Make good creases when you have everything lined up the way you want it. Add some tape to the triangles if they start to unfold. Fold the bottoms of the paper up. You should now have a piece of paper that looks roughly like a pirate hat, except for two bottom flaps. Fold one bottom flap up to the bottom edge of the triangles, and tape it down to secure it. Turn the hat over, and do the same with the remaining bottom flap. Add decorations to your finished pirate hat. Your pirate hat is almost finished. The only thing left to do is decorate it. Draw a skull and crossbones on the hat, or print one out and glue it on. You could also draw a skull and crossbones on a piece of poster board. Cut out the design and then glue it on to your hat. Assemble your workstation. To make this pirate hat you will need the following: Black poster board Scissors Glue A pirate hat template Spare sheets of white paper Pens, pencils, markers, or crayons Create or print a pirate hat template. You can find a pirate hat template online, or you can draw one yourself directly on the poster board. If you need to make multiple pirate hats, consider drawing a stencil on a separate piece of poster board. If you're drawing your own template, you have some freedom when it comes to the shape of your pirate hat. Copy the template onto the poster board. If you printed your template out online, place it on the poster board and trace the shape of the hat. Make two copies of the pirate hat shape. Cut out the two pirate hat shapes. Make your cuts as clean as possible. When you've finished cutting out your hat shapes, line them up with each other. Make sure they're both about the same shape. Draw a skull and crossbones design on a separate piece of white paper. Cut out the design and glue it to your hat. Draw features on the skull and crossbones using the markers. If you're working with kids, have them try their hand at drawing the skulls. If you don't have any spare paper, you can draw the skull and crossbones directly on the hat. Finish building the hat. Glue the top edges of the hat together. Do not glue the bottom edges of the hat together, or you won't be able to wear it. Allow plenty of time for the glue to dry before trying the hat on. Gather your supplies. To make a tri-corner pirate hat, you will need the following: A pencil Twist ties Scissors Glue A bowl about the size of your head A ruler or other straight edge Brown wrapping paper or a grocery bag Make a band for the bowl. Cut a strip of paper about 2 inches (5.1 cm) wide that can wrap around the rim of the bowl with 2 to 3 inches (5.1 to 7.6 cm) extra so the strip overlaps itself. Don't worry if you have to glue 2 smaller pieces of paper together to form your band. Cut the rest of your paper. You'll need enough paper to make two rather large cuts to form the top of the hat and the brim. Cut the first square to about 16 inches (40.6 cm) square and the second piece to about 24 inches (61.0 cm) square. If you want to add a leathery texture to your hat, soak the pieces of paper in water and wad them up. Remove them from the water and flatten them out to let them dry overnight. Be careful not to rip your paper if you try this! Form the cap. Place the bowl upside down on a table, and place the smaller of the two squares on top of it. Begin shaping the paper over the bowl by carefully pressing the paper down and around the rim of the bowl. Add the band. Once you've pressed the paper over the bowl, glue your 2 inches (5.1 cm) strip of paper around the base of the bowl to form the hat band. You may have to use a lot of glue to properly secure the band to the bowl. Cut away the excess paper. When the glue from the hat band is dry, cut away the excess paper beneath the hat band. Leave a little extra to tuck under the bowl of the hat. To make cutting easier, slide the bowl over to the edge of a table and rotate the bowl as you cut. Once you've cut away all the excess paper, remove the bowl. Test the fit of the cap by placing it on your head. If the cap is too large, crumple it some more and try adding another band for more support. If the cap is too small, you'll have to start over with another bowl. Prepare the brim. Take the larger piece of paper and draw a vertical line down the center of the square. Make a mark about 20.75 inches (52.7 cm) from the bottom of the paper. Draw diagonal lines from the mark down to the corners to form a triangle. Once you've measured the triangle, cut it out. Make a mark halfway down the side of each triangle. Draw a line to the opposite corner of each mark to make two smaller triangles. Using the bowl as a guide, trace a circle in the center of the triangle. You should now have a circle with six small triangles in the center of the large triangle. Draw three lines in the circle to cut each of the six triangles in half, making twelve triangles. Cut the inner triangles so that they spike up, but are still attached to the paper. Fold them upward until they resemble a crown. Attach the brim to the cap. Apply some glue to the twelve triangles and secure them to the inside of the cap. You may have to use a lot of glue to get them to stick. Don't worry if you make a mess, as this is the inside of the cap and you won't be able to see it in the final product. Let the glue dry completely before continuing. Round the corners of the brim. Fold each of the points on the brim to the center of the hat. The tip of each point should just touch the base of the cap. Make a crease on each of the folds and cut the points off. Round off the corners by cutting away the straight edges left from removing the tips. You should have three rounded triangles on your brim. Wrap the rounded corners around a pencil and roll them up to the base of the hat. When you remove the pencil you should have a corner that stays slightly rolled. You can even roll the tips of each corner if you like, to add even more character to your hat. To do this, use your pencil and roll the tips in the opposite direction. At this point, you should start to see the pirate hat coming together. Connect the corners of the brim to the cap. Wrap a twist tie around the eraser end of the pencil and twist it a few times. You should have a loop and two ends. Remove the twist tie from the pencil. Do this three times. Line up the brim a little higher than the cap and make a hole through them. Run the straight ends of your twist tie through the hole. Turn the hat over and flatten the two ends to secure the tip of the brim to the cap. Do this for the other brim tips. Decorate your cap. You should now have a solid tri-corner pirate hat. Add a skull and crossbones if you like, or some buttons. You can even decorate the hat band, though most of it is hidden by the rest of the hat. Glue a few real buttons over the brim connectors to give your pirate hat a more authentic feel. Find a hat from your local thrift store. Look for a wide-brimmed cowboy hat. Choose a dark color, like navy or black. The color is really up to you. If you want to make a brightly colored pirate hat, go for it! Choose a material that is flexible. Felt or velvet hats are ideal. Stitch or staple the sides of the edges of the brim to the crown at two sides. This will draw the brim up at the front and back, resembling a tri-corner pirate hat. Decorate the hat. Find a skull and crossbones design in the iron-on patches section of a craft store. You could also cut out a skull and crossbones from an old t-shirt. Stitch the skull and crossbones design to the front of the hat if it's made from fabric. If you're using an iron on patch, follow the manufacturer's instructions for attaching the patch.	Find a sheet of newspaper. Fold your paper in half horizontally. Bring the corners to the center. Fold the bottoms of the paper up. Add decorations to your finished pirate hat. Assemble your workstation. Create or print a pirate hat template. Copy the template onto the poster board. Cut out the two pirate hat shapes. Draw a skull and crossbones design on a separate piece of white paper. Finish building the hat. Gather your supplies. Make a band for the bowl. Cut the rest of your paper. Form the cap. Add the band. Cut away the excess paper. Prepare the brim. Attach the brim to the cap. Round the corners of the brim. Connect the corners of the brim to the cap. Decorate your cap. Find a hat from your local thrift store. Stitch or staple the sides of the edges of the brim to the crown at two sides. Decorate the hat.
https://www.wikihow.com/Unschool-Yourself-and-Your-Children	How to Unschool Yourself and Your Children	To unschool yourself and your children, find answers to your children's questions by doing research and taking advantage of local resources. For example, if your child wants to know why some ocean creatures breathe air and others have gills, collect books on the topic and visit an aquarium. Include creative and fun tasks, like drawing and word searches, to help your child explore new ideas and interests. You can also encourage your child to read by making reading a part of your everyday routine.	Discover unschooling. Unschooling allows a child to learn in their own, individual way, using their natural curiosity and interests. Instead of sitting in a classroom for eight hours a day, they are able to have interactive projects and constant learning opportunities. Unschooling is incredibly adaptive. It changes and moves with the child and goes at the child's pace. It teaches children that learning happens constantly--not within a rigid structure of 'facts' and tests, but in a natural, non-stressful environment. There is no doing school since you are learning all the time. Giving children the opportunity and the resources for learning on their own gives them greater independence and a greater ability to take charge for themselves and to make decisions for themselves. Regular public school tends to be a space more for showing off and for artificial boundaries drawn based on class, race, and gender that perpetuate in children behaviors and boundaries which are already problematic in the wider culture. Most children learn little more than how to work within a system that does not even treat them as people (many students have stories about cheating on tests, lying to avoid getting in trouble, and so on). Take charge of learning. Unschooling means that both the parent(s) and the child have to take charge of learning. This does not mean that the parent is responsible for becoming the 'teacher,' so to speak, but to be an active, participant in their child's learning. This means doing interesting projects and looking up answers to one's own questions. There are a variety of good books and helpful spaces for parents who are unschooling their children, that can help give them ideas and deal with difficult times. Books like John Holt's Teach Your Own or Grace Llewellyn's The Teenage Liberation Handbook. Or check out the Self Made Scholar's unschooling reading list. Learn all the time. Unschooling means constant learning. It sounds tiring, but really all that means is rather than setting aside a specific time to sit down to memorize some facts, your child is constantly being exposed to the world and the learning opportunities it provides. You will start to figure out both how you, and your child, learn things and it will take some trial and error to find the most useful ways for your child to learn, since there is no one right way to learn. Learn about unschooling and college opportunities. You may think that a child who is being unschooled won't get into college (and that the same problem applies to homeschooled children as well), but this is actually not true. Of course, not everyone wants or needs to go to college, but many do. Universities and colleges like Harvard, MIT, Duke, Yale, and Stanford are actually actively looking for students who have had alternate learning experiences, because those types of students tend to earn more credits than regular students and tend to do better, since they have more often been exposed to self-motivated learning. Many colleges have adjusted their admissions policies so that it is easier for these types of students to apply. The most important things to do if you're an unschooler who wants to go to college are to keep good records of your work, make sure you know and meet the deadlines for things like the SAT and submitting applications, and focus on your application essay. Pursue a child's interest. The point of unschooling is to focus on the child's learning and where that interest takes them. It can take awhile for them to want to do reading or mathematics, but if they are allowed to work at their own pace they are more likely to learn for themselves and the retain that information. Encourage their natural interest in things. If they show an interest in cooking, find some fun cooking experiments and try them together, or let the child try them on their own. Cooking can teach all kinds of things, like mathematics (with fractions and amounts) as well as being a practical skill. If your child likes to make up stories, do creative writing projects and talk about the different characters in their own games and in the stories that they (and you) might be reading. They'll learn about characterization, about writing skills and they'll be having fun. If they want to learn more intensively about a subject you don't know about, there are some really good free online courses that they can participate in, like Khan Academy and the Self Made Scholar. You can also find free online college courses on the Open Culture database. Use creative opportunities for learning. This is one of the most fun and exciting parts about unschooling. You and your child get to have lots of different, creative opportunities to learn about the world. Check the museums in your area. Many museums have days where they are free, or are free for children and it can be a fun outing. Also, many of the bigger museums have their catalog online, so even if you can't physically go to a museum, you can still look at amazing and interesting things. Libraries are great learning resources. They often have projects going on and reading groups and lectures, beyond simply having a lot of interesting books! Check out your library's events calendar to see what's happening and talk to your child about what they might be interested in. If your child is interested in something and you know someone who has the right skills, see if you can have your child learn from them for a day, or a week, or even a couple times a month. This could be anything from a chef, to a chemistry professor, to an archaeologist. Not only will this provide the child with new knowledge it's also a great way for them to see other viewpoints and to be more involved in the adult world. Use games and fun projects as learning tools. Since you'll be looking for lots of fun and creative ways to learn, using different games and projects can be a great way to help facilitate learning. Discover the what the ecosystem is like in your area. For example, if you live near a the ocean, learn about marine animals and different kinds of water ecosystems. If you can, take a trip to them beach to look for shells and sea creatures. If you can get a hold of a telescope , or make one , you can use that to look at the night sky and talk about the stars. You can even use this as a way to talk about mythology using the constellations as a jumping off point. Using a microscope, examine dirt from your backyard and from the park and compare them. Talk about why there are differences in the soils and what could cause them. Answer questions. It is incredibly important that you take the time to answer questions with your child. You don't have to be an expert in every subject, but when they ask a question, sit down with them to find out the answer. You can even point them in the direction of an encyclopedia (or the internet) and tell them to look it up and then tell you. If they can't figure out in ten minutes, work with them to find the answer. If there is no answer, or no one right answer, you can discuss why that is and talk about ways of trying to figure the answer out for yourselves. For instance, you can talk about what gravity is and how no one knows the exact cause. You could even do experiments with gravity (since, who doesn't love throwing things off a high building). "Deschool. " Sometimes you have to deschool before you unschool. This is often especially important if your child has been in the public school system for a while. Deschooling means giving them a break, for a few weeks or even a month, to get them out of the schooling mindset. Once they've gotten into a more relaxed rhythm, talk with them about what they want to learn and how they'd like to learn it. They don't have to have anything concrete at that moment, it will simply introduce the idea again. Be patient. You probably won't see the effects of unschooling immediately. Sometimes children can be recalcitrant and not want to learn anything, especially if they've been in the public school system for awhile. That is okay. It can take time to adjust to a new system and to rediscover their natural curiosity. You will have to trust your child to take control of their learning. Children are naturally interested in the world and curious about things. Even if it takes time, they will start learning, because they won't be able to help themselves. Putting pressure on children to learn can make them anxious and less likely to learn (as often happens in school). Keeping learning stress-free and enjoyable will keep them much more likely to learn for themselves. Recognize there is no "correct" reading age. For parents considering unschooling, the problem of reading can seem like a huge one. Reading is so often equated with intelligence. The usual schooling ideas about when children should be reading are, more or less, made up, however. Children learn to read when they want to. Enjoy teaching. Make reading simple, like a serious (not silly) but desirable game and very easy. When children are "coached" (not coaxed, not pressured) for playing reading, they tend to have a more consistently positive attitude towards reading. This makes it easier for them to learn to read when they choose to "play" reading. Play word search: Show them common words such as "on/off" on light switches (spell them aloud too as "o-n on", and "o-f-f off", etc.). Find "push/pull, go/stop, in/out" on business doors and such, one syllable, and add a few important, two-syllable words like "EXIT" and "ENTER" which are found. At home, show them each individual letter and mainly teach "sounds" of letters, not the names only. A is the name, but "a, eh, ah" are some of its sounds, as if it can make cute sounds. Studies have found that unschooling students tend to go from non-reading to fluent in reading very quickly. So whether your child is four or older, each will learn to read when it's best for them. Ease into it: avoid making your child read anything. The worst thing you can do is pressure your child into hating reading. That "backfires" and make them less inclined towards reading. When a child is under stress one is much less likely to accept learning quickly and easily. In fact, some studies have shown that children who have difficulty (or shame) in reading are more likely to act out behavior-wise in school, instead of learning happily. For example, don't make a young child write out lists of words they need to learn. You'll find that your child will be less likely to want to learn the words, than if they had been left alone to learn on their own. Suggest sounding-out the letters to get new words such as "c-a-t, cuh eh tuh", "ceht"; "c-a-t cat"! Don't force phonics as a study on them as lessons but let the child have their ah-hah moments, to feel the joy of getting a word or an idea. If the child tries to write, be satisfied that it is crooked and spelled oddly: Say, "Now you're getting it. Keep it up!" Show how much you value reading. By having reading as something that is a part of your daily life, you'll show your child how important it is. You don't have to talk about reading every second of the day, but have books around the house, talk about books that you're reading with your child. Ask your child what books they enjoy most, and make sure to have lots of those types of books around (either from a bookstore, or by going to the library and picking them out with your child). Don't do all the reading for them. While it is important to help out your child when they ask for it, by not always doing the reading for them they will realize the importance of learning to read. So, for example, if you're reading a story for them, go at the pace that works for your schedule. If they want to get the story more quickly, they'll need to learn to read it on their own. Encourage mixed-age interaction. Children tend to learn better when they're exposed to people of all different age groups, with readers and non-readers mixed together. This can be some sort of mixed-age children's group, or reading at home with family. Children often learn reading through games between readers and non-readers. There are lots of games that require reading comprehension and the readers interpret for the non-readers. The non-readers begin to learn words as they play. Some ideas for a family mixed-age interaction might be watching t.v. with the captions on so the non-readers start to identify words and letters, having shared reading time where the whole family gets to read out loud. A nightly reading where parents or older siblings read to the non-reader. Learn through writing. A lot of times children learn to read, because they learn to write. They often learn to write because they're writing the things that interest them: captions to go along with pictures they draw, stories of their own, notes for their family members. Help your child spell things when they ask you for help. Otherwise, it's best to let them sort out language on their own. Don't worry, they will learn to spell properly, even if it takes them some time. Listen to your child. These steps are really only suggestions for things that might help your child learn to read. The person who knows your child's learning style best is your child. Pay attention to how they are learning things and what they want to do. After all, unschooling is about letting you child direct their own learning.	Discover unschooling. Take charge of learning. Learn all the time. Learn about unschooling and college opportunities. Pursue a child's interest. Use creative opportunities for learning. Use games and fun projects as learning tools. Answer questions. "Deschool. Be patient. Recognize there is no "correct" reading age. Enjoy teaching. Play word search: Ease into it: Show how much you value reading. Encourage mixed-age interaction. Learn through writing. Listen to your child.
https://www.wikihow.com/Pick-a-Bowling-Ball	How to Pick a Bowling Ball	To pick a bowling ball, start by finding a ball that's a comfortable weight for you to roll down the lane without straining yourself. Additionally, look for a ball with holes that are a good fit for your fingers, allowing them to be inserted easily, but not so big that you lose control of the ball. Once you've picked the right size and weight, make sure to choose a left-handed or right-handed ball according to your preference. However, keep in mind that the majority of balls at bowling alleys are right-handed, so ask an employee for help if you need a left-handed ball.	Pick a comfortable weight. Bowling balls come in a variety of weights, ranging from 6 pounds (2.7 kg) to 16 pounds (7.3 kg). Choose a ball that is heavy enough for you to effectively roll down the bowling lane without straining yourself. Heavier is not necessarily better. Remember, you will be tossing the ball two dozen times and what seems like a comfortable weight at first might not be so comfortable by the end of the night. For practice, try swinging a weight at home in much the same way that you would swing a bowling ball. If, after 23 times, your arm is tired, that weight level is too high for you. You want to have full use of arm strength through the duration of the game. As a general rule, you should be able to handle a bowling ball around 10% of your own body weight. Unfortunately, the poor grip quality of house balls at bowling alleys can make tossing these more strenuous. When working with a ball not specifically fitted to you, it might be necessary to use a lighter ball. Find a ball that fits your fingers. Each bowling ball has holes for your thumb, middle finger and ring finger. Pick a ball with holes that allow your fingers to be inserted and removed freely, without being so loose that you lose control of the ball. Find a ball for which the distance between the holes (span) is comfortable for you. Try out several balls until you have a fit that feels comfortable. For house balls, the size of the holes typically correlates with the weight on the ball. Heavier bowling balls feature larger holes, whereas lighter balls feature smaller holes. The limited range of options can make it difficult to find a ball that has the right weight and finger parameters for you, but you should keep on trying until you find the best fit. When purchasing your own ball, the pro shop should customize the span and finger holes to the size of your hand. Any quality store should fit a ball precisely to your needs without much effort on your part. A pro shop should also sell finger inserts, which can be useful when using other people's balls. These can be transferred from one ball to another to improve your grip and give all of your balls a consistent feel. These have become very popular in recent years. Choose between a right-handed or left-handed bowling ball. The only difference between the two is that the ring finger is drilled 1/8 inch (3.175 mm) further from the thumb hole on a left-handed ball. The majority of balls available for rental at bowling alleys are right-handed balls. If you want to use a left-handed ball, you may need to specifically request one. Choose between speed and hook. If you have trouble getting the ball down the lane at high speeds, certain ball types can improve your speed, though it will be at the expense of your hook. As a rule, balls that are shinier produce less friction and thus can move faster. Balls that have a dull appearance produce more friction and thus are easier to hook. To hook a ball is to cause it to swing to the right or the left after tossing it. This creates the optimal trajectory for a strike, but it is a technique that typically only skilled bowlers can perform correctly Urethane balls are good for players who want to increase speed, but retain some hook in their throw. Resin, reactive, and particle balls are better for grip and hook than speed. These are good for experts who have built up a good ball speed and now want to master their hook. Plastic balls are good for beginners because they tend to go straight without losing control. They are not optimal, however, for either speed or hook. At a pro shop, balls made of any substance can be polished to reduce friction, thus increasing speed and decreasing hook. 60-80% of a ball's performance depends upon its coverstock (the hard exterior). This is the most important customizable feature of the ball. Pick a ball with the right core for your hook. Next to the cover, the most important feature of a bowling ball is its core. The heavier the core, the quicker the ball will begin to hook. A lighter core will cause the ball to hook further down the lane. There is no best core, just the core that fits throw. Core design varies significantly from one ball to another, making it a complex issue. You should talk to an employee at the pro shop about the core design of any ball that you are interested in. The core is an area inside the ball that offsets the weight imbalance created by the finger holes. Because this is inside the ball, you can't actually see it and it can be difficult to understand what effect it has on your throw. That is why it is important to consult a professional about the core of your ball. Pick an appropriate ball for lane conditions. Determine whether your bowling lane is dry or oily. This will help you decide whether to pick a polished or rough ball. An oily lane will cause more skidding and, if your ball has begun to skid out of control, you should switch to a ball that is less polished. Resin, reactive, and particle balls have the grip necessary for oiled lanes. There is no easy way to determine how the lane is oiled. You can ask the staff, but often your only real recourse is to toss the ball a few times and see how it skids. Typically lanes will be oiled unevenly. Often they are oiled more around the center than the edges. This will help the ball retain control before sliding into the gutter. Sometimes, the lane is oiled more in the front than the back of the lane, causing the ball to skid earlier. Thus, whether you switch to a ball that produces more friction should also be determined by whether the position of the oil is throwing off your game. Wipe down your ball before every throw if your lane is oily. Use a dry towel to wipe your ball. Select a color. Bowling balls are available in a wide variety of colors. Some balls are available in multiple colors, swirl patterns or even glow-in-the dark designs. The color of a ball won't physically affect how the ball travels, but a ball that makes you proud can give you the confidence you need to play a better game. Look no further than the alley. The house balls at the bowling alley are not high performance balls. Specifically, it is very difficult to get a hooked throw using one of these. However, these balls can be good for beginners because they have a lot of control and are good for straight line throws. If you're starting out and don't want to spend a lot of money, these can be an excellent choice. Even experts will occasionally throw the sort of polyester balls that are used as the house balls at bowling allies. Specifically, professional will use them for picking up spares, because when doing that an accurate, straight shot is typically preferable to a hook. Similarly, if you're still struggling to keep the ball out of the gutter, these are probably the best balls for you. Imitate other bowlers. When you watch bowling, pay attention to what professionals are using. At the alley, talk to some of the better bowlers about their bowling ball choice. Be particularly mindful of the choices of a bowler who has a style similar to yours. The issue with this technique is that there isn't one best ball on the market. Finding the right ball is about finding one that fits your physique and style. So, following someone else's lead will only work if you have similar styles. Alternatively, you can also ask bowlers what shop they got their ball at. This might be the most relevant piece of information, because the pro shop will be responsible for fitting your ball to your hands and should give you a lot of advice about what type fits your style. Ask around for a shop with knowledgeable staff, possibly even employees who were themselves professional bowlers. Find a good pro shop. Ask other bowlers and look online for a bowling shop with highly knowledgeable staff. Many shops will employee staff members who were themselves either successful professional or semi-professional bowlers. Because bowling balls have become so technologically advanced over recent years, it is important to have expert advice. The pro shop will also customize your grip, which can be one of the most important elements for achieving a quality game. As late as the 1980s, most bowling balls were fairly standardized. Today, bowling balls have different textures and core types, which have a substantial impact on play style. You should seek expert assistance when determining what type fits your style best.	Pick a comfortable weight. Find a ball that fits your fingers. Choose between a right-handed or left-handed bowling ball. Choose between speed and hook. Pick a ball with the right core for your hook. Pick an appropriate ball for lane conditions. Select a color. Look no further than the alley. Imitate other bowlers. Find a good pro shop.
https://www.wikihow.com/Build-an-Igloo	How to Build an Igloo	To build an igloo, find a spot that's covered with hard packed snow that's at least 2 feet deep. Then, draw the circular outline of your igloo in the snow and start cutting out blocks of snow from inside the circle. Once you've cut out all the blocks, stack them around the perimeter of your circle, gradually sloping the blocks more and more each time you move up a layer. Once you've built your igloo, cut out an entrance way and fill in any cracks or holes with more snow.	Build on a slope to save effort. Of course, an igloo can be built on flat land without any problems, but by building your igloo into a hillside, the slope will cut down on the surface area of your igloo dome. Less surface area means fewer bricks, and fewer bricks mean less work for you. In survival situations, a hillside building site should be prioritized. Avoid free-standing mounds, as these are likely logs or boulders buried in snow. Use a snow prod or a long stick to verify usable space for your igloo. Use a snow prod to test the snow for consistency. Ideally, you'll want to cut the bricks of your igloo from snow that is hard packed with no soft layers of soft snow in it. Use your snow prod or a long stick to check the snow, which should offer firm, uniform resistance if hard packed throughout. Measure the depth of your snow while checking consistency. You'll want the snow to be at least 2 feet (0.61 m) deep to make your igloo. Outline the outer wall of your igloo. Use the heel of your boot to scuff out a line marking the circular outside of your igloo. The snow on the inside of your circle should all be consistently hard packed, and your circle should be regular in shape. A poorly outlined outer wall will result in your igloo's design being less stable and sturdy. Never build a dome with a diameter larger than 10 feet (3.0 m), as it will require you to build a perfect dome. This is a nearly impossible task, even with special tools. Know your general plan for igloo construction. You'll soon be using snow blocks cut from the snow inside the outer perimeter of your igloo to build the walls of your igloo dome. You'll be building from the inside out, cutting the door of your structure after finishing your dome from the inside. Cut a narrow rectangular trench to prepare to harvest blocks. Depending on the size of your igloo, the size of your blocks can change, but traditionally igloo blocks are 3 feet (0.91 m) long, 15 inches (38 cm) high, and about 8 inches (20 cm) thick. Cut a narrow rectangular trench with your snow knife to accommodate several blocks this size. Cut your trench in a way that places one of its short ends flat against the outer perimeter line of your igloo. The place your trench and outer wall boundaries meet will eventually become your outside door. If working on a slope or building your igloo into a hillside, dig your trench directly toward the slope. A handsaw or machete can be used in place of a snow knife. Harvest your blocks and begin assembling your first row. Section the hard packed snow inside the perimeter of your rectangular trench into equal rectangular blocks. Stubborn blocks can be broken free by sticking your snow tool into the cut around the block and gently wiggling it back and forth until the block is broken free. Then arrange your blocks around the perimeter of your igloo to create the first layer of your dome. Your blocks should be 3 feet (0.91 m) long, 15 inches (38 cm) high, and about 8 inches (20 cm) thick, and should taper slightly as you build upward. Run your snow knife, machete, or handsaw along the edges of your first row of blocks where one block joins the next. This will smooth contours and help fit each block together tightly. When your rectangular trench no longer has snow for blocks, cut another trench the same dimensions as the first. All the snow used in building your dome should come from within the perimeter of the igloo. Cut a slope into your first row of snow blocks. Due to the rectangular shape of your blocks, you will need to cut a gentle slope inclining from the ground all the way to the top height of your first row of snow blocks. This incline should extend part way around your igloo (perhaps even as much as halfway), and should be cut with your snow knife, machete, or handsaw. This incline will allow your blocks to be stacked in a vertical spiral, creating a snug fit. Level and shape igloo walls when necessary. This will make stacking and layering the ice blocks much easier. Additionally, as you build your dome upward, you will need to shape your snow blocks to fit the reduced space at the top of your dome. Use your snow knife, machete, or handsaw to do this as necessary. Each row of your igloo dome should slope gradually inward. Use your snow knife, machete, or saw to create a very gentle inward slope for each row of snow blocks. Using your hand, plug any gaps you find in your dome from the inside with snow. Simply pat snow into the gap until it is filled. Add blocks cut from the snow inside the igloo perimeter. Continue to liberate blocks from the snow within your igloo perimeter with your snow knife/machete, and then stack your next layer starting from the sloping end of your first row. As your dome wall rises, blocks will begin to decrease in size and slope inward. To increase stability and prevent ceiling blocks from falling, bevel the edges where ceiling blocks meet the row beneath. To bevel, cut the inside corner of your ceiling block so that it forms a flat base with its neighboring block beneath. Fit your cap-hole blocks carefully. The topmost blocks in your igloo dome are notoriously tricky to fit into place, so take your time and work carefully during this leg of your igloo building. Use your snow knife/machete to sculpt these pieces to fit tightly together. Since your final hole will be exceptionally small, you will have to turn your final block on its end and feed it through the hole on its side. When your final cap-hole piece is balanced on the outer top part of the dome, cut it down to fit in place snugly with your snow knife/machete. Carve vents in your igloo to prevent CO2 poisoning. Your body heat will cause the snow of your dome to melt and then freeze again, creating a barrier between the inside and outside of your igloo. Without ventilation this seal will prevent the CO 2 that you exhale from escaping, and could seriously harm you. Cut small, crescent shaped vents into the top or sides of your igloo to prevent the buildup of CO 2. Cut your entrance. Now that you have the dome of your igloo created and some vents carved into place, you're ready to make an entrance. Use your snow knife/machete to cut a rectangle from the bottom of your block deep igloo base to about eye-level high, while crouching, in your dome wall. Your cut should be as deep as your dome wall is thick. Try to preserve this block by pulling it inside the igloo. You can save this block to create an overhang for your entrance. Clear your entrance way. Remove the remaining snow from your entrance in an gentle upward slope. You can pull this snow inside your igloo and use it for further patching gaps from the inside, or you can simply push it outside. Once your sloped entrance is finished, take the rectangular block you cut free of your dome wall and turn it on its side to remove it from your igloo. Then: Cut the rectangular dome-wall block in half. Lean each half of your block inward over your entrance trench so that each one holds the other up in an upside down V shape. This upside V overhang for your entrance should be as close to the mouth of the entrance as possible, to provide the most protection. Strengthen your exterior with snow and enjoy your igloo. Your igloo can be made even more durable to patching thin spots and gaps with more snow. Some gaps may be most easily patched from the inside, while you might have better access to others from outside. In either case, use your hand to press the snow into the gap and then smooth the area to pack it together. You should be able to assess the stability of your igloo by touch. If the blocks feel solid and sturdy, your igloo should withstand the elements. Even if your igloo is a little on the rickety side, in the event of a cave-in, you'll be able to dig yourself free from the snow easily.	Build on a slope to save effort. Use a snow prod to test the snow for consistency. Outline the outer wall of your igloo. Know your general plan for igloo construction. Cut a narrow rectangular trench to prepare to harvest blocks. Harvest your blocks and begin assembling your first row. Cut a slope into your first row of snow blocks. Level and shape igloo walls when necessary. Add blocks cut from the snow inside the igloo perimeter. Fit your cap-hole blocks carefully. Carve vents in your igloo to prevent CO2 poisoning. Cut your entrance. Clear your entrance way. Strengthen your exterior with snow and enjoy your igloo.
https://www.wikihow.com/Remove-All-Tension-from-Your-Body	How to Remove All Tension from Your Body	To remove tension from your body, try taking a hot bath or placing a heating pad on tense areas, which can release knots from tense muscles. Stretching your muscles gently by walking or doing yoga can also relieve tension-causing stress. Once your body feels better, stay tension-free by adding gentle stretches to your daily routine, like bending over and touching your toes, which can stretch your leg muscles.	Get a massage. Tension causes an actual physical change in the affected muscles and a massage can help remove it so that your muscles feels relaxed. A professional masseuse can feel the knots and tension in your muscles and massage them out. Some studies show that massage may release and lengthen tense muscles. There are many types of massage available, but Swedish massage and deep-tissue massage are effective at alleviating tension in your entire body. You can locate a qualified massage therapists either online or through a doctor's recommendation. If you can't get to a professional massage therapist, try self-massage. Rubbing your face or even just massaging your ears will relieve tension. Use heat therapy on tense muscles. Using heat on tense muscles not only can relax the contracting muscle and you, but it will also help alleviate the pain. From heating pads to warm baths, heat treatments can help get rid of tension. Taking a warm shower or bath will relax you and help with the pain of a muscle cramp. Fill a hot water bottle or get a heating pad and place it on the your tense muscles. Over the counter heat rubs may also help alleviate tension and relax muscle spasms. Take a warm bath. Draw yourself a warm bath when you feel tension. Warm water will soothe tense muscles and can instantly relieve tension and relax you. Make sure that the water is between 36 and 40 degrees Celsius so that you don't burn your skin. You can use a thermometer to check the temperatures. A whirlpool tub can help relieve tension because the jets will massage your muscles. Epsom salts can have a sedative effect on you and help relieve muscle tension further. If you don't have a bath, consider using the shower or a steam room. Go for a walk. Going for an easy walk not only can stretch out your muscles through motion, but it will also relieve tension-causing stress. Make sure to keep your exercise gentle so that you don't cause your muscles to tense up further. Only exercise if you are able to and don't push yourself. This may only be possible after some light stretching. Take long strides and gently swing your arms to get the full stretching benefits. Walk at a comfortable pace to stretch out your muscles optimally. Any amount of time you can walk will help work your muscles and relieve tension. Aim for at least ten minutes and walk for a longer time if you want and are able. If you can, walk in an attractive location in nature such as the woods, parks, gardens, or along waterways. Environments like these can greatly reduce tension. Try gentle stretching exercises. Bunched up muscles cause tension and stretching exercises can help alleviate tension and break up knots in your muscles. Doing gentle stretches will help ensure that you don't injure yourself or cause further tension. For tension in your legs, try bending over and touching your toes. If this isn't possible, you can sit on the floor and reach toward your toes. To relieve tension in your lower back, simply lay on the floor and pull your legs towards your chest. To relieve tension in your chest and sides, put your hands behind your head, open your elbows and then bend to each side and slightly backwards. The shoulders and neck hold most of the body's tension and stretching these areas lightly may immediately relieve your tension. To stretch your neck, tilt your head to the side and lightly pull it with your hand. To stretch the back of your neck, put your chin to your chest and gently pull with your hands behind your head. You can also stretch your shoulders by gently pulling each arm to one side or pulling your arms down behind you. Basic stretches that you would use to avoid injury will help to relieve tension and knots in your muscles. Try practicing gentle yoga. Yoga will also help stretch out and lengthen muscles, but it can also calm the body and bind. Restorative and yin yoga are specifically practiced to help stretch out muscles. Yoga and other exercise will encourage proper posture and improve posture, both of which can help relieve muscle tension. If you're trying yoga for the first time, make sure to start with beginner classes so that you learn proper alignment and get the most stretching benefit. Make sure you’re hydrated. Although studies have not shown a connection between dehydration and tension, there is some evidence that not consuming enough water does contribute to involuntary muscle spasms. Making sure that you're properly hydrated throughout the day may help you avoid muscle spasms and related tension. Water will keep you hydrated. If you prefer sports drinks or juices, make sure to drink them in conjunction with some water throughout the course of the day. Take a pain reliever. If other methods don't help your tension or you have lingering pain, take an over the counter medication to help alleviate the pain. If the pain continues for a longer period of time, though, consult your doctor to rule out a medical condition. Take ibuprofen or and NSAID (Non-Steroidal Anti-Inflammatory Drugs) to help with the inflammation that may be causing your tension. Pain relievers are also good for relieving the headaches that often accompany tension. Practice meditation. Meditation practices are traditionally buddhist techniques that can help develop concentration, clarity, emotional positivity, and a calm acceptance of the true nature of things. Do about 15-30 minutes of centering meditation (such as mindfulness or kindness and compassion meditation) daily to relax your muscles, relieve your stress, and as a result, remove the tension from your body. Try either kneeling, laying down on your back, or sitting with your legs crossed in front of you while you meditate. There are many different ways you can position your hands while meditating, and each are thought to have different effects on the body. Some of these so-called mudras include: Gyan Budhi Shuni Prana Dhyana Surya Do breathing exercises. Breathing exercises can help to calm down an anxious or stressed mind and are particularly useful for releasing tension to enable sleep. Try the 4-7-8 exercise by pressing your tongue against the back of your teeth, inhaling for 4 seconds, holding your breath for 7 seconds, and exhaling for 8. Then, repeat this 3 more times. Try alternate nostril breathing by sitting with your back straight and closing your eyes. Close your left nostril with your right ring finger and inhale. Then, close off your right nostril with your thumb as you exhale. Make sure to take deep belly breaths when you practice yoga. This will naturally invigorate you and help dissolve tension and tightness in your muscles. Avoid stressful situations. Stress is one of the most significant sources of tension. Avoiding stressful situations whenever possible will also help ensure that you don't have tension in your body. Organizing your day and allowing time to relax will help you relieve and avoid unnecessary stress. Step back from any stressful situation if you can. If you cannot, try taking a deep breath and not reacting immediately to avoid having your feelings and tension rise unnecessarily. Exercise regularly. Regular exercise is an important part of staying healthy and it will also help relieve tension-causing stress. Try to get some form of exercise every day to help avoid and alleviate tension. Even a small amount of exercise is good and can help relieve stress. For example, a ten minute walk will relax and refresh you and will also lightly stretch your muscles. Exercise produces endorphins that will improve your mood and help you sleep, both of which can contribute to feelings of tension. Eat properly. Bad nutrition exacerbates stress and tension. Eating healthy foods will not only help your overall well-being, but also combat stress and tension. Chewing can help you relieve tension because the motion is a natural relaxant. Foods like asparagus, which has the mood-enhancing nutrient folic acid, can help alleviate stress. Foods high in Vitamin B such as avocados also help relieve stress. A glass of warm milk can help insomnia and anxiety. Its proteins lower blood pressure while the potassium can help alleviate muscle spasms caused by tension. Get enough sleep. Every person needs sleep in order to maintain health and well being, but it will also help your body relax and process stress. Make it a priority to get 7-9 hours of sleep every night to help you avoid stress and tension. Increased stress and tension are one of the negative consequences of insufficient sleep. Make sure you get enough sleep every night so that you don't exacerbate any stress or tension in your body. Short naps of 20-30 minutes can also help relieve stress.	Get a massage. Use heat therapy on tense muscles. Take a warm bath. Go for a walk. Try gentle stretching exercises. Try practicing gentle yoga. Make sure you’re hydrated. Take a pain reliever. Practice meditation. Do breathing exercises. Avoid stressful situations. Exercise regularly. Eat properly. Get enough sleep.
https://www.wikihow.com/Read-Women%27s-Body-Language-for-Flirting	How to Read Women's Body Language for Flirting	To read a woman's body language while flirting, try to make eye contact with her and smile to see if she holds your gaze, which is a clear sign that she's interested in you. While you're talking, pay attention to what she does with her hands, since playing with her hair a lot, fiddling with her jewelry, and mirroring your own hand movements are common signs that she's into you. If she touches your arm or chest while she's talking to you, she's probably trying to flirt with you. In addition to watching her hands, notice if she smiles and laughs around you more than she does with other people, which suggests that she likes you.	Notice if the woman's eyes dart around the room. You may notice she looks around the room for a few seconds, not really meeting anyone's eyes. Then, she may take a quick look at you, sometimes from the side. These darting glances means she's at least noticed you. Some women may not want to be caught looking, while others will look intently for a few seconds. However, if you notice a woman looking your way repeatedly, it's likely she's interested. Pay attention if the woman holds your gaze for a few seconds. If she's been taking darting glances then catches your eye for a few moments, then that indicates she's even more interested. If you see her looking your way, give her a smile to show you're interested, too. Watch for a head flip or hair toss. If she's interested, a woman might tilt her head back a bit, pushing her face up. You might catch her doing this after she looks at you from across the room. Alternatively, she might toss her hair or flip it back with one hand. Typically, a woman playing with her hair is a good sign. Similarly, if she fixes her outfit, such as adjusting her skirt, that could be a sign she wants to talk to you. Pay attention if a woman exposes her neck. With this movement, she may tilt her head to the side, revealing her neck. This is a way of showing she's vulnerable and that she's willing to get to know you better. She may do this across the room or while talking to you. In a conversation, this could be a sign she's listening, as she's cocking her head to hear you better. Look for a coy smile from across the room. If she's noticed you and looked your way a few times, keep glancing her direction from time to time. If she smiles at you, she's likely inviting you to come over and talk to her. Sometimes, she may give you a half-smile where she doesn't show her teeth. She may be inviting you to get to know her more, though she could also just be placating you. Watch for positive body language as you walk over to the woman. When you start walking over, check to see how she responds. If she turns her body toward you and smiles, that's a good sign. However, if she turns away, crosses her arms and legs, or frowns, that's a bad sign, and you should probably abort your mission. Focus on the woman's smiling face. If she's smiling all the time while you're talking, that likely means she's interested and wants to keep talking. Most women will not have a problem frowning or looking bored if they don't want to continue talking to you! Laughter is also a good sign, particularly if she's laughing at all your jokes. She might also bat her eyelashes at you. If she's blushing, that's even better! Watch to see if the woman is mimicking your movements. Once you've gone over and started talking to her, watch how she reacts when you change position. She may copy what you're doing, such as crossing your legs, a sign she's into you. She may not even realize she's doing this! Pay attention to physical contact. No, this doesn't refer to kissing! Often, though, a woman will touch your arm or shoulder to make a point or just to flirt a little with you. Any time she's making physical contact, that's a good sign that's she's flirting with you. She may also try to get into your physical space. If it feels like she's standing or sitting a little too close to you, she's likely flirting a bit. She might also just lean in from time to time. If you're interested in her, you can do the same, such as lightly touching her arm when you're talking to her. Notice if the woman leans into the conversation. The more she's into you and what you're saying, the more likely she is to lean forward. Typically, she'll just bring her torso forward a bit, like she's trying to hear you better. If she leans in, try not to move back. She wants to get closer to you! See if the woman nods her head along to what you're saying. If she's engaged in the conversation, she may nod from time to time to show she's listening. While this isn't automatically a sign of flirting, it's a good sign. Note if the woman is fidgeting with things. Fiddling movements, such as playing with her hair, messing with her jewelry, or tracing the rim of her glass, are typically signs of flirtation. Slow, controlled movements are more likely a sign of flirtation, whereas tapping or jerky movements could mean she's bored or uninterested. For instance, if she caresses her lips, neck, or collarbones, she may be sending you a signal that she's interested. She's drawing attention to these areas subconsciously. When a woman strokes the stem of a wine glass or runs her fingers along the rim of her water cup, she may be trying to get your attention. Look to see if she gazes directly at you then looks down or away. Often, a woman who is interested in you will hold your gaze for a few seconds at a time. However, then she might look down at her lap for a second or across the room. These little darting glances say she's interested but a little shy, too. Watch for shrugging gestures and signs the woman is relaxed. If she's shrugging her shoulders or holding her palms face-up, she's showing she's not hiding anything. She's saying she's open to getting to know you better. Also, look for a relaxed posture instead of a stiff back. Check to see if the woman is looking anywhere but at you. While a woman who's flirting might gaze around the room for a moment, she'll also keep stealing glances at you and trying to catch your eye. If she always seems to be looking away, that could mean she's not interested. Notice if her eyes are dilated. If they aren't, she's probably not into you. Look for stiff body language. If the woman is sitting with a stiff back and crossed arms, she's probably not interested. Similarly, if she's leaning on one of her hands and looks very bored, she's likely trying to find a way to exit politely. Crossed arms and her body pointing away from you are also signs she's not interested. Notice if a woman frowns or suddenly stops smiling. Since smiling is a sign of flirting, the opposite is true, too: if she's frowning at you or even just looking around the room with a blank stare, she's probably not interested. Stay away if she doesn't smile back at you when you flash her a grin. Pay attention if a woman rejects physical contact. If you touch her arm and she backs up, she's saying she doesn't want to get closer to you. Similarly, if you lean in for a kiss and she offers her hand, she's saying she just wants to be friends, or she's not interested in physical contact at all. It's important to respect her boundaries. If she doesn't seem into it, back away. Even better, always ask when you want to kiss or hug someone. A simple, "Can I give you a hug?" or "Do you mind if I kiss you?" go a long way. Believe a woman when she says "no. " If she says "no," don't take that as a sign she's playing hard to get. Believe that she doesn't want to engage with you and walk away. Pushing the boundaries will only make her angry, not win her over to your way of thinking. She may not say "no," but she may use a phrase to push you away. For instance, she might say things like, "Thanks, but I'm waiting for someone," "I don't feel like chatting right now," or "I've got a boyfriend/girlfriend." Exit the conversation politely if you need to. If you find you're not wanted, find a way to leave the conversation as soon as you can. Don't be rude; after all, she didn't ask for your attention, and she may just want to be left alone. For instance, you might say, "Well, I can see you're busy, so I'll take my leave. Have a good night."	Notice if the woman's eyes dart around the room. Pay attention if the woman holds your gaze for a few seconds. Watch for a head flip or hair toss. Pay attention if a woman exposes her neck. Look for a coy smile from across the room. Watch for positive body language as you walk over to the woman. Focus on the woman's smiling face. Watch to see if the woman is mimicking your movements. Pay attention to physical contact. Notice if the woman leans into the conversation. See if the woman nods her head along to what you're saying. Note if the woman is fidgeting with things. Look to see if she gazes directly at you then looks down or away. Watch for shrugging gestures and signs the woman is relaxed. Check to see if the woman is looking anywhere but at you. Look for stiff body language. Notice if a woman frowns or suddenly stops smiling. Pay attention if a woman rejects physical contact. Believe a woman when she says "no. Exit the conversation politely if you need to.
https://www.wikihow.com/Bag-Groceries	How to Bag Groceries	To bag your own groceries, try to group similar items together to prevent cross-contamination and help refrigerated items stay cold. Put refrigerated and frozen items in one bag, fruits and vegetables in another, and meats in their own bag. Keep eggs in a separate bag from raw foods in case they crack. As you're bagging, place heavier items like cans and jars on the bottom and lighter items like bread on the top so they don't get crushed. To maximize space, create a wall around the outer edge of each bag with boxed foods, then fill the middle with fragile items like chips, cereal, and pasta. If you're packing multiple glass items, keep them separate so they don't knock against each other and break on the ride home. You can leave heavier items like milk jugs, soda, and detergent outside of your grocery bags so they don't weigh the bags down and cause them to rip. Do the same with any chemicals, like household cleaners, so they don't leak and ruin your food.	Choose a reusable shopping bag for sturdiness. Reusable bags are made of fabric or recyclable plastic. They are more durable than plastic and paper bags, and they have more space than traditional grocery bags. Many stores are discontinuing the use of disposable bags, and cities around the world are banning plastic bags to reduce the number in landfills. Polypropylene and polyethylene are forms of recyclable plastic that are cheap to produce, durable, can be made from recyclable materials, and are chemical resistant. Other reusable bags are made from hemp, jute, cotton, calico, and upcycled scraps of cloth. All of these are strong materials that will last a long time. Clean your reusable bags, because they can become contaminated with bacteria from meats and fruit. You can put them in the washing machine or rinse them in the sink. Use plastic grocery bags for their convenience. Plastic bags are still the most convenient bags to use when grocery shopping, because customers get them for free most of the time. They also take up less space than paper bags. Some cities in the United States charge a fee of $0.10 per plastic bag if you didn't bring your own. While plastic bags have a negative impact on the environment, they can also be reused for grocery shopping or as liners for small bathroom trash bins. Use a paper bag for its structure when bagging groceries. Paper bags have a flat bottom that makes layering groceries by weight easier. They're made to easily stack items according to size and weight, because you can put heavier cans on the bottom and the fragile food, such as eggs, on top. Paper bags aren't the most reusable bags, because they tear more easily than plastic and cloth. However, they are compostable. Group like items together. It may help to separate bags into 4 groups such as general pantry items, meats, frozen or refrigerated items, and produce. Bag fruits and vegetables with each other and put freezer items together in separate bags. If possible, pre-sort the items as they come down the belt so you will have a better idea of how many bags to take out for each group of items. By grouping items together by type of food, you reduce the risk of cross-contamination and damage. Grouping cold items together helps them retain their temperature and makes it easier to unpack everything that should be put into the refrigerator or freezer immediately. Separate raw food from the rest to prevent contamination. Place raw meats in separate plastic bags, as they have the tendency to leak. Meat and fresh pasta should be kept separate from ready-to-eat foods such as nuts, drinks, produce, cheese, sushi, and bakery food. Pack eggs separate from any foods you plan on eating raw, in case they crack. Bag chemicals separately from food. This will protect the rest of your groceries from contamination with soap, cleaner, or batteries. Other chemicals you don't want near food are deodorant, shampoo, room freshener sprays, and bleach. You could get sick from eating vegetables that were covered in detergent or bleach, so keep your food items in separate bags. Distribute heavy items among several bags. Avoid putting lots of jars or cans in a single bag, as it may tear or be too heavy to carry. Aim to put some heavy and light items in each bag. Don't exceed 15 pounds (6.8 kg) per bag. Don't pack more than 6 cans per bag, depending on the size, because more than that may break through a plastic bag or rip a paper bag. Jars should be limited to 4 per bag. Pack lighter items on top of heavier items. A good bagging foundation usually has shorter cans in the bottom middle of the bag. Layer boxed food on top along the sides of the bag to create a wall. Medium sized staples, such as boxes of oatmeal or bags of rice, should go in the middle on top of the cans. Food that can be squished easily, such as fruit, bread, eggs, and chips, can go on top of heavier items, like jars and cans. Pack glass items in the middle of cans to prevent them from breaking. Placing glass bottles next to each other can damage them. The cans will support the glass, minimizing the chance for breakage. If paper sleeves are available to you, you may wrap the glass items and set them next to each other. The paper will act as a buffer protecting against impact. Double-bag, when necessary. Double-bagging either plastic or paper bags reinforces the bag and enables you to pack your bags with more and heavier items. Consider what can be left unpacked. Rolls of toilet paper, big sacks of dog food, or boxes of soda may not fit in bags. Most larger items can be carried out on their own, or with the addition of a quick and handy adhesive handle. Don't bag large items with handles such as milk, soda, and detergent. Place them directly at the bottom of the cart instead. You can also bag chemical items such as cleaners separately from food in case they leak. Load the groceries in your car carefully. When you get to the car, observe the same packing rules you did for bagging. Put heavier bags on the bottom or around the sides. Bags containing more delicate items should go on top, and put supported items in the middle. Use caution when placing items in back seats next to child safety seats. Make sure nothing will tip over on to the child.	Choose a reusable shopping bag for sturdiness. Use plastic grocery bags for their convenience. Use a paper bag for its structure when bagging groceries. Group like items together. Separate raw food from the rest to prevent contamination. Bag chemicals separately from food. Distribute heavy items among several bags. Pack lighter items on top of heavier items. Pack glass items in the middle of cans to prevent them from breaking. Consider what can be left unpacked. Load the groceries in your car carefully.