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https://www.wikihow.com/Attach-a-Garden-Hose-to-a-Kitchen-Faucet | How to Attach a Garden Hose to a Kitchen Faucet | To attach a garden hose to a kitchen faucet, start by getting a faucet adapter from your local home improvement store. Next, unscrew the faucet tip, taking care not to drop any of the pieces that are contained inside. Then, check that the rubber or vinyl hose gasket is inside the adapter before screwing it onto the faucet to prevent leaks once the water is turned on. Finally, screw the hose into the adapter, making sure that it's on tightly enough to form a watertight seal. | Get a faucet adapter. This is a small adapter that screws onto the faucet and converts the end of the faucet into a male garden hose fitting. Unscrew the faucet tip. Take care not to drop pieces that are contained within the tip. A good idea is to put a towel in the sink to catch anything you may drop; the towel will prevent things from going down the drain. Screw on the new faucet adapter. Make sure that it forms a good seal with the faucet, but there is no need to use tools to tighten it. If a vacuum breaker is not integrated into your plumbing system, screw a hose-type vacuum breaker on the hose threads before you connect the garden hose. Hose-type vacuum breakers are available at hardware stores. This prevents a siphon from developing and drawing chemicals or waste into the drinking water supply if the hose gets accidentally left in (submerged in) a container with cleaning chemicals or contaminated, un-potable water. Make sure the hose gasket is in place the hose has a rubber or vinyl gasket in it to prevents leaks. Make sure that the gasket is in the hose before attaching the hose to the faucet, or you will have a soggy mess on your hands. Screw on the hose. The hose screws onto the faucet adapter. Make sure it is screwed on tightly enough so that it forms a watertight seal. Replace the faucet tip after using the hose. Remove the hose and faucet adapter, then screw the faucet tip back on relatively tightly so that it forms a good seal. Check for leaks. The faucet may leak from the replaced faucet tip if the seal is not as good as it originally was. Add Teflon tape to the faucet. To prevent or stop leaks from the faucet tip, first remove the faucet tip, then apply two or three turns of Teflon tape clockwise to the threaded area of the faucet. Pull the tape tightly around the threaded area of the faucet, being careful not to let extra tape overhang the area where the water exits the faucet, as it may impede the flow of the water. Screw the faucet tip on over the Teflon tape. Excess tape may be visible, but this is not a problem. Trim any overhang. Cut the excess tape gently with a knife, and peel away the scraps. Enjoy the leak-free faucet. | Get a faucet adapter. Unscrew the faucet tip. Screw on the new faucet adapter. Make sure the hose gasket is in place the hose has a rubber or vinyl gasket in it to prevents leaks. Screw on the hose. Replace the faucet tip after using the hose. Add Teflon tape to the faucet. Screw the faucet tip on over the Teflon tape. Trim any overhang. Enjoy the leak-free faucet. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Travel-Alone | How to Travel Alone | If you're traveling alone, wear plain, simple clothes so you can blend into the crowd. Additionally, leave your headphones or earbuds at the hotel, since they make you less aware of your surroundings. You should also put any valuables, like expensive jewelry and extra cash, in the hotel safe, so you're not drawing attention to yourself on the street. If you need to ask for help, try approaching a family, an older person, or a group of women, since these people are unlikely to be a threat to your safety. | Make a list of all the activities, must-see locations, and foods have to see while traveling. Traveling alone offers you incredible freedom to do what you want to do. Don't spend the whole day on a weak Wi-Fi signal trying to figure out what to see -- make a list in advance. The beauty of solo travel is that you aren't beholden to stick to your schedule, but you can have a wide range of options worth exploring if you aren't sure what to do next. Some good ways to find activities include: Travel blogs or forums TripAdvisor LonelyPlanet Recommendations from friends who have visited before Guidebooks from your local bookstore. Book accommodations in advance whenever possible. Whether you're staying at 5-star hotels, hostels, or camping, look into your sleeping arrangements before leaving. When you're alone, especially if you're in a foreign country, the last thing you want is a campsite to be full or the hostel to be booked. If you're intent on figuring it out on the fly, jot down 2-3 potential places to stay each night, along with phone numbers, to make your life easier. If you're looking to explore, aim for hostels or unique hotels with a bar and/or restaurant. You'll inevitably meet other travelers with recommendations and advice. Download or carry a Lonely Planet guide for your destination -- they have phone numbers, addresses, and descriptions of great places to stay (especially in a bind!) for your reference. Learn as much background about your destination as possible. This will make conversing with locals easier, and can clue you in to potential risks and hazards. If you can, pick up as much of the language as possible -- even making an effort to speak a native tongue makes a big difference. Some areas to focus on learning include: Important cultural norms, including (in)appropriate gestures in public, titles and names, and religious or cultural customs. Appropriate dress and attire for your gender. Any safety or travel concerns you need to heed. Pack lightly, taking only essentials. You're going to need your wits about you when you land in a strange area and have to figure out what to do next. Make life much easier by only packing one light bag. You have enough to deal with without keeping track of luggage, and you do not want to be caught dealing with a lost bag by yourself. While the following list must adapt for your exact destination, it is a good starting point for solo travelers. Light, layer-able clothes, like jackets, scarves, and long-sleeves. Switchable clothing, like zip-off pants, will help you stay extra light. Try to avoid packing a lot of clothes. Keep in mind that many places will have laundry facilities, so you'll be able to re-wear the same stuff. A waterproof jacket Flashlight or headlamp. A small first-aid kit. Zip-top and garbage bags Cash, with a credit card for emergencies An emergency contact list with your own address. Deck of cards, book, set of pictures, or similar icebreaker with other travelers and locals. Leave a copy of your full itinerary and all applicable contact information with at least one person you trust. You need to let at least one person know where you'll be at all times. Set a time to get in touch as well, letting them know the easiest way to get to you in an emergency, as well as the day or days you will have the ability to check in with them. Don't assume that your cell phone will work when traveling in a different country; it might not be compatible with the local network. If you need a phone abroad, consider purchasing a local prepaid mobile phone as a safety measure. Inform relevant authorities of your travel plans. You should also inform your bank and the US embassy, of your travel plans. You might be locked out of your funds if you do not. Make copies of your passport, visas, tickets and itineraries before departing. Make an electronic copy and a physical one, when possible. If something were to happen these copies will make it much easier to get replacements quickly. Email the electronic copies to yourself so that you can access them anywhere. Send an extra copy of everything to your friend or family member in charge of your itinerary. Keep your valuables in the safe at the hotel. The less of value you carry on you, the better. This means taking off expensive watches or jewelry and limiting the amount of cash on you at any one time. There is no reason to be flashy or flaunt wealth. Depending on your destination, you'll probably look enough like a tourist as it is. Leave the valuables at home or at the hotel to take undue attention off of you. If you are ever in a situation where someone wants your things, give them up. You can replace things and money, but it is difficult to read a dangerous situation safely when you're new in town. Just give it up and walk away. Walk confidently to blend into crowds. There is no need to draw attention to yourself when traveling. Blending in is not only safer, it will generally lead to a less "touristy" experience. Keep your head high and your posture upright. Print directions in advance so that you don't constantly need to whip a map or expensive phone out. The more you look like you're in control, the less of a target you become. Don't wear headphones, especially if you're the only one with them in the street. They close you off to your surroundings and make you seem like a tourist Plain, simple clothing is almost always your best bet to blend in. A smile is perhaps your greatest weapon for disarming people and opening doors. Be judicious when giving out personal information. Being a smart traveler may mean using a few creative lies. There is no reason, for example, to broadcast the fact that you're traveling alone. Instead, ask for directions by saying "you're meeting a friend." If someone asks you where you're staying at night, let them know that "you aren't sure yet, you're just exploring." Being a good traveler doesn't mean exposing yourself unnecessarily to danger. While there are always exceptions, in general: Don't tell people where you're sleeping. Don't tell people you're traveling alone. Don't broadcast your status as a foreigner or traveler Don't talk about your money or valuables, even obliquely. Don't tell people where you will be the next few days. Ask families, the elderly, and women for advice if you're in trouble. Of course, scam artists come in many shapes and sizes. That said, your odds of being hurt or robbed by a family, older citizen, or group of women is far lower than a random man on the street. If you're stuck and need directions or assistance, these are your best bets for help. Trust your gut. Don't let the stress and excitement of travel remove your common sense. If something seems a little off--such as accommodations or an offer from a local--it probably is. That said, you should feel equally free to take a risk here and there if it feels right and looks safe. You are the best judge of your own safety -- if you feel safe, then you should feel free to explore. If not, say no and move on with your trip. Try to stick to public transportation instead of taking cabs since it's generally safer. Set up periodic check-ins with your at-home contact. Make sure that you call when you say you'll call, or email to let them know you're okay. If you write a travel blog, update it briefly even when you don't have time for a full post. There will be people back home worrying that you're hurt or in trouble if you drop off the face of the earth without warning. In the rare worst-case scenario that something happens to you, time is of the essence. Have someone with a plan to help you if something goes wrong. Take time every day to journal or write down your thoughts. Traveling is a whirlwind, and it is easy to get swept up in the excitement. Find a way to make your memories permanent by taking some time to write them down. Even jotting down a list of the things you did will help you remember the stories, events, and locations that made your trip memorable. Many solo travelers find that writing a travel blog a great way to connect deeply with their vacation and keep friends and family back home in the loop. Just start moving, following your instincts. Walk to the big attraction instead of taking a taxi. Rent a bike and go exploring on the city streets. Take a trail that your fellow hostel mates are about to hike. Traveling alone gives you the freedom to explore now and make plans later. Get on the ground, then, and start exploring -- you'll never know who or what you'll find. If you're the type that likes organization and firm plans, hop onto a tour group. Ask the hotel/hostel staff if they know any pre-planned walking routes or good tour companies. The foods, people, and sights off of the beaten path are usually the most memorable. So get off the path and get on your own two feet. Make a few friends. They can be fellow hostelers, a ranger at the campground, or the bartender at your nearest pub. A friendly smile and hello is usually all you need to start conversation. Most people are happy to give some guidance to a traveler on the road. Start with the staff at your hotel, asking them for recommendations or advice, and see where it leads you. You'll find no better guidebooks than the people who live and work in the place every day. Being alone means it is easy to pick up and drop plans. Keep your ears open for events at your hostel or hotel, or any parties or group activities with other travelers. A deck of cards is a great way to break the ice. You can try using apps like Bumble BFF or Tinder to meet traveling partners. Push yourself to try new things. Travel is perhaps the best time to expand your horizons, so don't cut yourself short by acting picky. Dive into a local dish you wouldn't otherwise order. Go see a local concert in a genre you've never heard before. Hike to the top of a mountain in your flip-flops. Whatever it is that interest you, even a little, is worth exploring. At the very least, it almost always ends in a great story. Remember that there is no "right" way to travel. Bask in the freedom of solo traveling. Do what you want to do, see the people and sights you want to see, and keep moving. If you wake up one day and decide you want to read by the pool all afternoon instead of seeing the museums, do it. Traveling alone means the experiences are all yours, allowing you to find the "right" trip for you. So use the guidebooks as guides, not the law, and stay flexible. With the right attitude and willingness to experiment, your trip will turn out amazing. | Make a list of all the activities, must-see locations, and foods have to see while traveling. Book accommodations in advance whenever possible. Learn as much background about your destination as possible. Pack lightly, taking only essentials. Leave a copy of your full itinerary and all applicable contact information with at least one person you trust. Inform relevant authorities of your travel plans. Make copies of your passport, visas, tickets and itineraries before departing. Keep your valuables in the safe at the hotel. Walk confidently to blend into crowds. Be judicious when giving out personal information. Ask families, the elderly, and women for advice if you're in trouble. Trust your gut. Set up periodic check-ins with your at-home contact. Take time every day to journal or write down your thoughts. Just start moving, following your instincts. Make a few friends. Push yourself to try new things. Remember that there is no "right" way to travel. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Speak-with-a-Cockney-Accent | How to Speak with a Cockney Accent | To speak with a Cockney accent, drop the “g” from words with -ing endings, don't pronounce the “r” at the end of words, and drop the “h” from the beginning of words. Pronounce the short “a” as "ah" and replace “th” sounds with “f” or “v.” Use Cockney substitutions, like saying "ain't" instead of "isn't" and "me" instead of "my," and incorporate double negatives and rhyming slang to emulate Cockney speech patterns! | Drop the letters “t” and “k” from the middle of words. A glottal stop is the linguistic term for dropping the sound of the letter “t” from the middle of a word. You can do the same with the letter “k” in the middle of a word, as well. "Scottish," for instance, would be pronounced "Sco'ish." “Blackboard” becomes “bla'board.” Drop the “h” from the beginning of words. The Cockney accent doesn't put emphasis on the “h” sound when it is the first letter in a word. So, for example, pronounce “herb” as "erb," "horse" as "orse," and "hopefully" as "opefully." Don't pronounce the “r” at the end of words. Like most English accents, a Cockney accent drops the “r” from the end of a word. For example, "mother" becomes "mo-thah," and "car" becomes "cah." Replace “th” with “f” or “v. ” For words that start with a “th” sound, like “think,” change the “th” to an “f,” as in “fink.” “Thought” becomes “fought,” and “thirsty” becomes “firsty.” For words that have a “th” sound in the middle, like “Northern,” replace it with a “v” sound, such as “Norvern.” Pronounce the short “a” as "ah. " The typical short “a” sound is evidenced by the word “cat.” Change your short “a” to sound more like the “a” in "father," for words with a short “a” sound in the middle, like "bath" and "can't." Substitute an “l” for a “w” at the end of words. When an “l” sound is at the end of a word, you can substitute the “l” for a vowel sound, like “w.” For instance, “pal” would sound like “pow,” and “trouble” becomes “trou-bow.” Drop the “g” from -ing endings. A Cockney accent is very informal, and often leaves off the “g” in words that end with “ing.” For instance, "starting" becomes "startin'" and "laughing" becomes "laughin'." Use Cockney substitutions. To speak with a Cockney accent, occasionally substitute grammatically-incorrect words for grammatically-correct words. For example, say "ain't" instead of "isn't" or "is not," and use "me" instead of "my." You can also use double negatives, like “I didn't see nothin' there!” For example, say "I'm goin' to walk the dog with me mum," or "I ain't lookin' forward to the meetin' on Monday." Use rhymes in place of the intended word. To people from other countries, Cockney rhyming slang may seem nonsensical, but the concept is fairly simple. Choose a phrase that rhymes with your intended word and then use that rhyme in place of the intended word. One common example of rhyming slang is saying "apples and pears" in place of “stairs.” The last word in this phrase, "pears," rhymes with the actual meaning—"stairs." You could say, “Blimey, I have to climb four sets of apples and pears just to get to me flat!” Another example is using “Barney Rubble” to stand in for “trouble.” You could say, “Mate, you're sure gonna be in Barney Rubble for that one!” Say only the first word of the rhyme. When using Cockney rhymes in a sentence, you don't need to say the whole rhyme. For example, say, “Mum rang me on the dog.” The full rhyme would be “dog and bone,” in which “bone” is actually the word that rhymes with “phone.” Yet, to make it more fun—and confusing—you only use the first part of the rhyme. Another example is, “Let's head to the nuclear tonight, boys!” In this instance, “nuclear” refers to “nuclear sub(marine),” which stands in for “pub.” Memorize common Cockney rhyming slang. Do an Internet search or watch some Cockney movies to learn more common rhymes. For instance, use "Ruby" (short for "Ruby Murray") for “curry,” "Adam and Eve" for “believe,” "kettle and hob" for “watch” (hob rhymes with fob, an old term for a pocket watch), "butcher's" (butcher's hook) for “look,” and "trouble and strife" for “wife.” | Drop the letters “t” and “k” from the middle of words. Drop the “h” from the beginning of words. Don't pronounce the “r” at the end of words. Replace “th” with “f” or “v. Pronounce the short “a” as "ah. Substitute an “l” for a “w” at the end of words. Drop the “g” from -ing endings. Use Cockney substitutions. Use rhymes in place of the intended word. Say only the first word of the rhyme. Memorize common Cockney rhyming slang. |
https://www.wikihow-fun.com/Be-a-Ride-or-Die-Chick | How to Be a Ride or Die Chick | Being a ride or die chick is all about being loyal to your partner no matter the cost. Although the term usually refers to a partner, you can also be loyal to something else, like a community or cause. When things get difficult, a ride or die chick doesn't leave. A ride or die chick usually goes along with whatever her partner wants to do, and may even be considered an accomplice. Although there are many good aspects of being a ride or die chick, you should never put your safety at risk for loyalty. If your partner makes you do things you don't want to do, it's best to find someone more supportive you can devote yourself to! | Show extreme loyalty to your partner. A ride or die chick is eternally devoted to her partner and his life choices, no matter what those might be. The term derived from rap music in the 1990s, and it's often used to refer to African-American women and gangster culture, Either thought it originated in the biker life in the 60's.. The term essentially means that the ride or die chick is willing to lay her life down in the battle for her partner, participating in all aspects of his life. That means she will lie for him, help him, and stick by him, even if he's engaged in dangerous and unlawful behavior. Sometimes, ride or die chicks are glamorized by the media, even though they have an outlaw connotation. For example, Bonnie in the robbery duo of Bonnie and Clyde is considered a ride or die chick. Indeed, some define the ride or die chick as a “hip hop spin” on Bonnie and Clyde mythology. On the even more negative side of the equation, ride or die chicks sometimes become witting accomplices in their partner's amoral activities. Some people consider Adolf Hitler's wife, Eva Braun, to be a ride or die chick because she committed suicide with the man who murdered millions of people. Don't forget that Bonnie and Clyde ended up dying in a hail of bullets. Show your devotion to a community or cause, not just a person. Some people interpret the term ride or die chick to mean loyalty to more than just another person or love interest. The term can also mean loyalty to something bigger than yourself. A ride or die chick in this context embraces a political movement or other social cause. For example, she is willing to risk anything for the cause, even if it means arrest or other problems. The cause comes first. She sticks by her community no matter what, always defending it, and always being its champion when the community is under attack, real or perceived. An example of a ride or die chick would be Jane Fonda, who took her opposition to the Vietnam War to an extreme and controversial degree, despite personal consequences to her own career. Ride out the bad. A ride or die chick isn't just at her husband or partner's side when things are going great. She's still there no matter what happens, even if he ends up incarcerated or broke. The term can equally apply to males. When it does, it's just called “ride or die.” The key point: These are women (or men) who stand by their partner no matter what he or she does, even if she or he is mistreated along the way. Someone might say, “That's my ride or die husband for life.” The ride or die chick is the opposite of someone who just marries someone for their money or power and hits the road the second those things vanish. Participate in his activities. The ride or die chick is down for whatever her partner needs her to do. She isn't just a passive observer to his lifestyle; she's ready to participate. The ride or die chick doesn't have strong boundaries with her partner, and she lets him set the terms of the game. Being mistreated, though, never feels good. The ride or die chick doesn't have the power in the relationship. Her partner generally sets the couple's boundaries and the terms. At the same time, some people consider the ride or die chick to be a liberated woman because she's joining her man in rejecting the rules. The ride or die chick's role in the relationship is as the accomplice. The partner's activities take precedence over everything, and he may reward her for her trouble with money, jewelry or other gifts. Consider the negative implications. Although being a ride or die chick has a positive connotation in some communities and usages, it comes with negatives ramifications that you might want to think about. For example, if your partner is engaged in illegal activities that put others, himself, you, or your family at peril, you would do him (or her) more of a favor by helping him find another way. There's a reason that a person's ride or die chick isn't always the person they choose to be their wife; the ride or die chick is part of the "bad girl/good girl" binary that some people think is unfair to women. Although Hollywood and rap music have glamorized young death (in music as well as film), it's really not glamorous at all to see a person you love lying in a casket. In real life, not the movies, this will come with decades of pain, endless jail visits, financial struggles, and fatherless children. Being a ride or die chick could put your own personal safety at risk, and it could also land you in trouble with the law, depending on the activities your partner is engaging in. Consider whether that's worth it. Isn't there another way? Turn the ride or die chick concept positive. Although often used to glorify women who help men engaged in gangster life or criminality, there are positive ways to embrace the ride or die chick's liberating allure and steadfast loyalty without the danger. For example, the term has been used to refer to a woman who stands by her man through a very difficult battle with terminal cancer. She doesn't run away when things are painful. In more general terms, the phrase means sticking it out when times get tough, whether because of finances or something else. If the struggle is something out of your partner's control – they lost a job, they have a health problem – that's different than staying with a man who actively mistreats you. Never stay with a man who puts your life in danger or subjects you to physical or emotional abuse, especially if there are children in the home. In its most loving definition, the ride or die chick is just a play on the concept of endless love that is found in many marriage vows that say “until death do us part.” The ride or die chick sometimes comes from an impoverished and violent environment or background. Study feminist interpretations of the concept. Although some people consider the ride or die chick to be a liberating and even empowering rejection of the rules, some people don't perceive the concept so fondly. Some theorists have argued that the ride or die chick is an exercise in masculinity and patriarchy because the male's needs are dominant over the woman's. Others, though, have argued that the term can evolve and even constitutes an act of political rebellion against a culture that has stigmatized African-American love by devaluing the worth of black women. Some people believe the ride or die chick is setting herself up for a life of depression and pain, as she allows herself to be mistreated and drawn into a life of danger. Some scholars have recognized the ride or die chick as one of the historic stereotypes of black females. They have argued that the concept objectifies and does not empower women, and that it has contributed to rising female prison populations. Analyze celebrity ride or die chicks. People have identified many famous celebrities as ride or die chicks. Study them to master the concept. To some degree, ride or die chicks are the “bad” girl, not the good. For example, Shante Broadus, the wife of rapper Snoop Dogg, stood by him despite drug use, infidelity and divorce papers. Eudoxie stood by rapper Ludacris when he cheated on her. Gabrielle Union stood by Dwayne Wade even when he got another woman pregnant. The actress Nia Long has been dubbed a repeated cinematic ride or die chick. In the movie Boyz in the Hood, she played a loyal girlfriend helping her man, who was living a life on the streets of LA. In Soul Food, she played Bird, who was holding down the house while trying to help her criminal boyfriend find a job. You can also find ride or die chicks in politics. Hillary Clinton famously stood by Bill Clinton after the Monica Lewinsky scandal. Sometimes ride or die chicks stand by their man to the bitter end because they get something out of the relationship: Status, money, fame. But the phenomenon doesn't only occur with the rich and famous. Learn about ride or die chicks throughout popular culture. The ride or die chick concept was popularized by hip hop music and has made appearances in other forms of pop culture. For example, in season 1 of Empire, Andre's wife is a ride or die chick, when she accidentally killed a man who was about to tell the police that her husband had killed someone. “I'm ride or die,” she told her husband as she helped him bury the body. "Ride or Die, Chick” is a song that was featured on The Lox's second album, We are the Streets. A less clean version contains an expletive in the place of the word “chick.” The concept appears in many other songs, including those by artists Jay-Z, Ice Cube, DMX, Ja Rule, Method Man, The Game, and 2Pac. Sometimes the term is accompanied with the “B” word or replaced with the phrase, a “down ass bitch.” The characters Carmela Soprano and Adriana La Cerva are ride or die chicks who are accomplices in their partner's criminal Mafia lifestyles. However, Adriana loses her life in the end. Author J.M. Benjamin has written a paperback novel series that features ride or die chicks. One book, Ride or Die Chick Three, features a criminal couple in Virginia. Be fun to capture the personality of a true ride or die chick. Obviously if you're someone's ride or die chick, you're around them often. Nobody likes someone boring or who complains all the time. Stay positive. Have confidence and have no fear of anyone. To some degree, the ride or die chicks glamorized by popular culture are fearless and courageous women. Learn how to fight if you don't know how. Ride or die chicks are tough. They aren't just going to passively stand by. Get some attitude. The ride or die chick will defend her partner when he is under attack by anyone and anything. She's a force to be reckoned with at all times. | Show extreme loyalty to your partner. Show your devotion to a community or cause, not just a person. Ride out the bad. Participate in his activities. Consider the negative implications. Turn the ride or die chick concept positive. Study feminist interpretations of the concept. Analyze celebrity ride or die chicks. Learn about ride or die chicks throughout popular culture. Be fun to capture the personality of a true ride or die chick. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Host-a-Hawaiian-Party | How to Host a Hawaiian Party | To host a Hawaiian party, start by sending out tropical-themed invitations that encourage guests to wear Hawaiian-themed clothes. Next, decorate your party space with lush, tropical colors like red, orange, blue, and floral prints. To create the right vibe, put out bamboo plates and flatware, tiki torches, and vases of tropical flowers. Then, soundtrack the party with Hawaiian music, serve seafood and fresh fruit, and offer on-theme activities like hula hooping and dancing in grass skirts. | Send themed invites. Invite friends, family, or neighbors to your party. Send, or email, Hawaiian-themed invitations. You could decorate the invitations with palm trees, hula girls, or surfers. You could also choose invitations with beach themes, flowers, or ocean scenes. Ask your guests to dress for the theme. It won't be much of a stretch to ask your guests to wear their swimsuits, sundresses, or shorts. Hawaiian-style (flower printed or "island" themed) shirts, board shorts, or skirts are easy to find during the summer. Ask your guests to wear sandals, or provide them with inexpensive flip-flops decorated with fake flowers. Give your guests a lei as they arrive. If you are planning to make real flower leis , you can make them the night before the party. If not, paper leis are great as well. Place one over the head of each guest as they arrive to get them in the spirit of the party. Use bright colors. Hawaii is green, lush, and filled with tropical flowers. Emulate the Hawaiian landscape by decorating your space with bright colors. Choose tablecloths in bright colors like red or blue or prints such as flowers or tiki masks. Add accents in complementary colors. Make Hawaiian centerpieces. You could fill vases or bowls with fresh flowers, such as plumeria, hibiscus, or bird of paradise to give your tables a Hawaiian feel. Another idea is to fill small buckets with sand and place shells, flowers, or even tea lights in the sand. You could even hollow out a pineapple and fill it with flowers or tiny paper umbrellas. Use bamboo plates and flatware. Not only is bamboo biodegradable and compostable, but it will also help set the stage for your Hawaiian party. Pick up plates, forks, knives, and spoons made from bamboo at a party store, or order them online. Pair them with festive cloth napkins. Put out tiki torches. Tiki torches are reminiscent of Hawaiian beach parties. Grab some from a party supply store or garden store, and firmly stake them around your yard. Depending on where you live, tiki torches may be hard to find. You can substitute them with any kind of outside light such as lanterns. Keep a fire extinguisher handy in case of any accidents. Set out scented candles. Choose candles in scents like coconut, lime, plumeria, or ocean air. Set them around your space to give off tropical scents and set the mood. Add greenery. Using greenery to decorate your space will be sure to put your guests in a Hawaiian mood. Check your local garden store for greenery to decorate with. Put potted plants around your space, or decorate your table with a grass skirt. You can even line your serving trays with banana or palm leaves. Get inflatable decorations. Stock up on inflatable items, from beach balls to palm trees and sharks. These would be perfect for a pool party, but can also be placed around your yard or home. You could use a small inflatable pool as your cooler; simply fill it with ice and add drinks. Serve seafood. Nothing says Hawaii quite like a delicious seafood dish. Grill mahi mahi or salmon , or serve sushi. You could also set out cocktail shrimp for an appetizer, or make seafood kabobs. Make Hawaiian pizzas. Ham and pineapple are the traditional toppings for a Hawaiian pizza. Create a station so guests can make their own pizzas, or make them ahead of time. You can even order pizza if you don't want to spend your time cooking. Grill burgers. Though a hamburger may not be traditional Hawaiian fare, it's perfect for a Hawaiian-themed party happening stateside. Offer a couple of varieties, like veggie burgers , cheeseburgers , or burgers stuffed with bacon or onions. Set out a variety of toppings as well, like lettuce, tomato, mayonnaise, ketchup, and mustard. Make poi. Poi is a traditional Hawaiian dish made from taro root. To make your own, simply peel and steam taro root. Mash the taro with a stone pestle or a “poi pounder.” Add water until the poi is smooth and sticky. Then serve it to your guests for an authentic Hawaiian meal. Set out fresh fruit. Pineapple, guava, papaya, lychee, and coconut are perfect for a Hawaiian party. You could also add dragon fruit, bananas, starfruit, and raspberries. Serve them separately, or slice them up and make a big fruit salad for your guests. Make stuffed peppers. Something spicy will be perfect for your Hawaiian party. Scoop out the inside of jalapenos, and stuff them with cheese, bacon, or shrimp. Then, simply toss them on the grill. Offer Hawaiian drinks. Cocktails such as a Blue Hawaii or a Mai Tai would be perfect for your adult guests. For children, offer tropical juice, like pineapple, or water infused with fruit. Garnish the drinks with fruit or paper umbrellas. You can even serve them in coconut halves to take your theme all the way. Serve pineapple upside down cake. Pineapple upside down cake is a perfect dish for this party. Make your own, or buy one from the market, and serve it to your guests for a refreshing and delicious dessert. Watch a Hawaiian movie. Playing a movie based in Hawaii is a great way to set the mood for your event. Consider movies such as Blue Hawaii , 50 First Dates , or Blue Crush for adults, and Moana or Lilo and Stitch for children. Play Hawaiian bingo. Make a beach or Hawaiian-themed Bingo board for your guests. Use words associated with Hawaii, such as luau, hula, and island. Call out the terms and have your guests mark them down if they have them on their card. Choose a winner based on the first person to get a row or column, or even their entire board marked off. Listen to Hawaiian music. Get a CD of Hawaiian music or download Hawaiian.mp3s from the internet. For relaxing moods, you could play Kapena or Israel Kamakawiwo'ole. Or, choose upbeat music like Three Plus or Ten Feet. Research local artists, such as Pepper and Jack Johnson. Another option is to hire Polynesian drummers or Hawaiian musicians for your party. Dance with grass skirts. Grass skirts are traditional Hawaiian apparel. You can make or buy the grass skirts ahead of time, or make them as a group activity. It would be extra fun if you can find someone who can teach you all a few hula moves. Play the music and dance the night away. Do the limbo. The limbo is a fun activity for your Hawaiian party. Get a bamboo pole from your local hardware store to use as the pole and see how low you can go! Set aside a pretty lei for the winner, or award them with sunblock or a Hawaiian shirt. Hula hoop. Get several hula hoops for your guests to use. Lay them out around the yard for people to use as they like. You could also hold a contest, such as seeing who can hula hoop the longest, or who can do the most loops in 2 minutes. Hire fire dancers. If you have the space, and the budget, consider hiring fire dancers for your party. Hawaiian fire dancing is a tradition dating back to ancient times, originating after volcanoes erupted and spread lava over the islands. Hiring Hawaiian fire dancers will give your party an authentic island feel. | Send themed invites. Ask your guests to dress for the theme. Give your guests a lei as they arrive. Use bright colors. Make Hawaiian centerpieces. Use bamboo plates and flatware. Put out tiki torches. Set out scented candles. Add greenery. Get inflatable decorations. Serve seafood. Make Hawaiian pizzas. Grill burgers. Make poi. Set out fresh fruit. Make stuffed peppers. Offer Hawaiian drinks. Serve pineapple upside down cake. Watch a Hawaiian movie. Play Hawaiian bingo. Listen to Hawaiian music. Dance with grass skirts. Do the limbo. Hula hoop. Hire fire dancers. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Track-Stocks | How to Track Stocks | To track a stock, first determine what the ticker symbol for that stock is, which is a combination of up to 5 letters that are used to identify that particular stock. Once you know the ticker for the stock you want to track, search for it using a stock-tracking tool on a search engine like Google to find information about that stock. You can also search for the ticker on a financial services website, or look for it in the daily stock section of the newspaper. If you have an online portfolio or brokerage account, set up news alerts to get updates whenever the stock's price changes. | Determine the ticker symbol for the stock you want to track. The ticker symbol will be a combination of up to five letters, often abbreviating or suggesting the name of the company or one of its products. This is how the stock is identified on stock charts and tickers. For example, the symbol for Apple is AAPL. For help determining a stock to track, see how to choose stocks. Search for stock information on news websites. Enter the ticker symbol in the search field of a financial services website, or use the stock-tracking tools provided by most major Internet browsers and search engines. For example, Yahoo! and Google both offer market information. You can also find daily stock information in the newspaper. Just look for the ticker symbol under the appropriate exchange heading in the paper's financial section. Use your online brokerage account. If you have an online brokerage account , a stock tracking tool is part of your account. Current prices and recent trades will be automatically reflected in your online portfolio. You may also have access to addition tools for analysis and tracking, so check with your online trading platform's help section to find out what you can use. If you have use a premium online brokerage service with a lot of stock tracking features, there may be no reason for you to use any other stock tracking websites. However, if you have a basic, low-fee brokerage service, you may want to use other stock-tracking websites that have more features. Set up an online portfolio (if you hold more than one stock) to help track your stocks over time. Most financial services sites and search engines offer a free portfolio tool. In most cases, all you need to do to establish an online stock portfolio is log in, click on the portfolio or finance section and enter the ticker symbols of the stocks you are tracking. These portfolios allow you to enter your positions (stocks you own) and then update their price and total value based on changes in the market. Websites like Mint and Wikinvest.com let you track your portfolio for free. They also have iPhone Applications that let you track your portfolio on the go. Real-time stock quotes are usually unavailable through free stock-tracking websites. These sites most often have a pricing delay of 15 minutes. To obtain real-time updates you'll need to purchase stock or sign up for a fee-based stock-tracking service. Set up news alerts for the stock. In many cases, your online portfolio or brokerage account may offer price or event alerts for your stocks. These alert you when the price of the stock drops below a certain point or when important information about the company is reported in the news. You can set these services up to send you an email or a text when one these events occurs. Interpret price changes. The high, low and closing prices indicate how the stock performed in the previous trading day. They are the top, bottom and last price the stock traded at on that day. In contrast, the 52-week high and low columns indicate the volatility of the stock. The greater the difference between those latter two prices, the greater the opportunity for gain or risk of loss with that stock. Conversely, a narrow price range without major swings suggests a more conservative investment. Net change (or simply "change") represents the gain or loss for the stock on a given day. It's determined by taking the previous day's closing price and subtracting it from the current or next day's closing price. For more, see how to read stock quotes. Look at dividends. The dividend column indicates how much the company may pay you to hold a share of its stock for one year. The dividend may be raised, lowered or eliminated depending on company performance. Examine how long the company has been paying dividends and if they have increased the dividend payout over time. Companies that consistently pay dividends, and increase them over time, are considered much more reliable investments than those companies that do not. Dividends are paid when the company's net earnings (net profits) are paid out to all stockholders evenly. The other option is to reinvest these earnings into the company itself. Companies attempting to grow or change quickly need capital reinvested and tend to not pay dividends (higher risk = higher reward). Companies without as much of a plan for growth or change tend to use their more consistent earnings to pay back shareholders for their (financial) support. This means that growth stocks may not pay dividends but may still be profitable investments due to their growth plans. Another way to understand dividend payouts is to calculate the dividend payout ratio. This allows you to see how much of the company's earnings are paid out to investors and if that number has changed over time. Understand the PE ratio. Price-to-earnings ratio information is the closing price of the stock divided by the earnings per outstanding share. Basically, it represents investor confidence that the price of the stock will increase in the future. A low P/E ratio may indicate an undervalued company (and a chance for a good investment). Another way to look at the PE ratio is to think of it as an earnings multiple. That is, the ratio represents how much an investor is willing to pay for $1 of current earnings. So, a PE of 18 represents that an investor is willing to pay $18 for $1 of current earnings. A "good" PE ratio is hard to discern directly. That is, a high PE ratio shows you that investors are confident about a company's growth and that the stock value might increase. However, a low PE ratio may represent good potential and might indicate an undervalued stock. The average PE ratio is 20-25. You should compare the company's PE ratio to those of other company in the same industry to get an idea of where this company fits in. Look at trading volume. Volume is simply the number of shares traded each day. Unusual trading volume in excess of average daily trades may indicate that a stock is either on the rise or anticipating a slump. Generally, if there is a rise in the price accompanying the trading volume, this represents investor confidence. Similarly, increased trade volume accompanied by a reduction in price means that many investors are selling their positions in expectation of a slump. Watch for buy or sell ratings. Analysts that follow stocks publish price targets, which state their estimated future value for a stock, and also specify ratings. These ratings, usually "buy," "sell," or "hold," indicate what they believe savvy investor should do with a given stock. These ratings, along with an average of all rating for that stocks, can be found on market information websites like Google Finance, Yahoo! Finance, and MarketWatch. Look at the big picture. Stock prices can be volatile over the course of a day or week. To get a better idea of the stock's performance and growth (or lack thereof), you should look at a longer time period, like a month or year. In addition, try comparing its growth over these period with that of the market. You can use the S&P 500 for these comparisons. Check if it was up when the market was down, or vice versa. This can give you an idea of how the stock will perform over time. You can also find more long term financial information by studying the company's financial statements, which are available from both the SEC and usually on the company's website. For more, see how to research a stock. Understand the risks of day-trading. Day-trading is different from investing in that day-trading focuses on the short term and is very risky. A day-trader stands to lose significant amounts of money if the bets that they make on the market are wrong or if trading fees eat up all of their gains. In theory, a day-trader could identity patterns that lead to rises or falls in the price of a stock and then profit from these predictions. However, in practice this is very difficult and many day-traders end up losing money and exiting the market. Investors buy securities and hold them for long periods of time with the expectations that they will earn value slowly. Day-traders look for quick jumps and falls in value in the same day or week and trade quickly. Even if trend and pattern analyses are made properly and conservatively, there is still risk that you will lose money on your trades. Be warned that you stand to lose a considerable amount of money if you try to engage in day-trading. Identify trends. If you do decide to day-trade, the simplest type of pattern you can identify is a price trend. Look for uptrends and downtrends in the price of a stock over daily and weekly periods. However, keep in mind that just because a stock is rising now does not mean it will continue to do so tomorrow, or even in the next few minutes. Another way to identify trends is to study the market itself and the global financial system. Look for relevant news that could move the price of a stock or affect the stability of an industry or economy. Trend identification, along with the rest of the patterns mentioned, is part of what is known as technical analysis , which assesses market trends to help traders make trade decisions. Look for support and resistance. Support and resistance are terms used by traders to identify prices that a stock usually does not move below or above, respectively. That is, if a stock often gets close to surpassing $40 over a period of time, but never does, the stock has a "resistance" at $40. Identifying these levels for a given stock will help you identify prices that the stock will likely not surpass or fall under. Identify head and shoulders patterns. Traders also use several other more complex patterns to identify shifts in price trends. One the most common of these is the head and shoulders pattern. This pattern is formed when a high is reached (the left shoulder) and then the price drops temporarily only to be replaced with a high even higher than the first one (the head). Then, after another temporary drop, another peak (the right shoulder) is reached that is not as high the head. This pattern identifies the end of a upwards trend in the value of the stock. After this pattern, the price is expected to decline. The lows between the head and two shoulders can also be used to draw a "neckline" that identifies the point at which you should certainly sell the stock. | Determine the ticker symbol for the stock you want to track. Search for stock information on news websites. Use your online brokerage account. Set up an online portfolio (if you hold more than one stock) to help track your stocks over time. Set up news alerts for the stock. Interpret price changes. Look at dividends. Understand the PE ratio. Look at trading volume. Watch for buy or sell ratings. Look at the big picture. Understand the risks of day-trading. Identify trends. Look for support and resistance. Identify head and shoulders patterns. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Coptic-Bind-a-Book | How to Coptic Bind a Book | Many readers and hobbyists like Coptic binding, which allows a book to lie completely open when flat. To create your book, make your folios, which are folded pages, by folding your large pages in half. Once you complete this step, you can create signatures, which are a set of folios placed together. There's no limit to the number of signatures you can include in your book, but if you're new to Coptic binding, it's generally best to start with fewer than 10 signatures. After you prepare your pages, you'll need to measure and cut a backing board, which will be the covers for your book. When all of your materials are ready, you'll need to make binding holes along the spine's edge so you can stitch your book together. | Create your folios. Take each large page, set it on a flat work surface, and fold it in half. Make sure that the edges of the paper align perfectly and are not skewed or lopsided in any way. These individual folded pages are called folios. Run the blunt edge of a knife or a bone folder across the fold to ensure a crisp edge. Create your signatures. A signature is a set of folios placed together. Open up your folded folios and lay them one inside of another until you have four to six of them stacked. Then, close each signature and once more run a bone folder along the fold to create sharp exterior edge or spine. Set your completed signatures aside. There is no limit to the number of signatures that you can include in your book. The number of signatures will directly correspond to the number of final pages. For example, a book with 10 signatures will have 160 useable interior pages. If you are new to Coptic binding, it's generally best to start off with fewer signatures. When you get more comfortable with your technique, go ahead and tackle thicker books with additional signatures. Prepare your backing board. These will be the covers for your book, so you'll want to handle them very carefully. Take a hard paper board and cut it down until you have two equal pieces that are large enough to cover the exterior of your folios. To make clean cuts, lay a metal or plastic ruler down on the board and then run a utility knife along the edge. This will let you get the size that you want with a smooth outer edge. Mark the signatures. Gather all of your signatures and stack them together, applying some pressure to ensure that they are even on all sides. Set them down. Get a metal ruler and make a series of pencil marks. The marks should start one inch (2.5 cm) in from the bottom and top and continue until you have three marks on each end, each separated by an inch (2.5cm). Place the ruler against the spine and draw lines from the holes down over the spine ends of the signatures. These markings are intended to show where the thread will enter and exit the spine of your signatures. You can end up with as many thread holes as you like, but each hole will raise the level of difficulty. You can also space the holes out however you choose. Be aware that the fewer holes you include the looser your interior pages will be. Likewise, too many holes can leave you with a book that may be stiff with difficult to turn pages. Mark and puncture one cover board. Place the signature from the top of your signature stack on top of one of your cover boards. The cover board should be laying with its exterior facing downward to protect it from markings. Align the signature with the board, leaving a bit of space spine edge. Get an awl or small screwdriver and make holes in the board in the spots next to the marks on the signature's spine. For this example you will end up with a total of six holes in each cover board. They should correspond in location and spacing with the spine markings of the signatures. Try to make each hole as wide as your needle. Too wide of holes will let the thread slip and too small of holes will make threading more difficult. Puncture the next cover board. Take the board that you've punctured and place it together with the other cover board. They should be positioned with their interiors facing one another, almost like a book with no pages. Use your awl or screwdriver to push through the holes of the one board and through into the new one. Once you've completed the set of holes, pick up the second board to make sure that they are correct in size and re-puncture or adjust as necessary. Puncture the signatures. Pick up one of your signatures and fold it open with the interior pages facing downward on a table. The outer spine crease should be on the outside and facing upwards. Make six holes along the spine according to the markings. Try to keep your holes right on the spine, if possible. Repeat with all signatures, close each of them until folded, and place them back into a stack. Thread your needle. Hold your needle firmly. Take a long length of thread and put it through the eye of the needle. Continue to pull this thread through until you have two pieces of equal length, making your needle “double-threaded.” Tie a knot at the end unifying the two pieces. Now, you are ready to start binding. It's best to use a waxed thread, as it will slide smoothly through the pages and won't snag. It will also resist aging. This is where you can express a bit of your creativity. Choose a thread color that you enjoy and that matches the cover of the book, as your thread will be highly visible on the spine of the final product. The amount of thread that you start with is really up to you. You want enough to make some good progress, but not enough to get overly tied up. It is possible to re-thread in the middle of binding. Start your first stitch. Position the bottom cover laying down with the signature on top of it and open. Go to the lowest hole on the bottom of the signature (one inch from the edge, for this example). Pierce your needle through it. Then, loop your thread over the outside of the cover's spine. Come up through the lowest hole in the bottom cover. The one that corresponds to your entry point in the signature. Finish your first stitch. Tighten your thread to pull the cover and signature together. Then, loop your needle around and inside the existing stitch. Guide your needle back into the hole leading into the interior of the signature. (The same hole that you started with earlier, but coming at it from the opposite direction.) Open the signature up and pull your thread through. You will see the knot from your thread just outside the lowest interior hole of this signature. When you are finished with this step you should see a completed stitch on the exterior of the spine holding the cover and signature together. Continue your stitching. Head to the next hole up on the interior signature. Enter into this hole with your needle and complete the same process as above to finalize the stitching. Repeat this process over and over again, moving from hole to hole. Attach the next signature. When you reach the last hole of the signature, then it's time to make preparations to attach the following one. Lay the unattached signature on top of the attached one. Then, after you finish the outer loop on that final hole, instead of going back inside the attached signature, return the needle into the interior of the new signature to bind everything together. Continue adding signatures. Repeat the stitching process, as with the previous signature. The only difference will be that you'll always need to loop around the previous signature's outer stitch before making that final move into the interior. This will help to hold everything together. Rethread as needed. When you reach a point where you have around six inches of thread left, then go ahead and stop to get more. Pull your needle and thread under one of the thread lines inside a signature and tie it off into a knot. Tuck the ends under a thread line and cut the extra off. Add new thread to your needle, knot it at the end, and continue one to the next open signature hole in the interior. It's fine to leave the knot visible at this point. When you are finished, go back through and tuck all of the visible knots into the thread strands and cut away any excess with small scissors. Attach the front cover. When you reach the last hole of the last signature, then it's time to put on the cover. Place it on top and align the holes. Go from the last exterior stitch in the signature and push the needle directly into the top exterior hole in the top cover. Pull the thread through the inside, making it come out of the spine between the cover and signature. Loop the needle around the last signature's knot and come out once before going into the signature hole from the spine. Repeat to finish the cover binding. Repeat this process until you have secured the rest of the cover to the final signature. When you've pulled the needle and thread through the last hole of the interior signature, then loop the needle under an existing thread and tie it off. Tuck away and cut off any excess. | Create your folios. Create your signatures. Prepare your backing board. Mark the signatures. Mark and puncture one cover board. Puncture the next cover board. Puncture the signatures. Thread your needle. Start your first stitch. Finish your first stitch. Continue your stitching. Attach the next signature. Continue adding signatures. Rethread as needed. Attach the front cover. Repeat to finish the cover binding. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Become-Flexible | How to Become Flexible | To become flexible, start a simple stretching regimen and try to perform it 3 to 4 days per week. Begin with simple arm and shoulder stretches, then move on to bridges, lunges, and butterfly stretches. Try to hold each stretch for at least 5 seconds, then slowly increase how long you hold the stretches as you become more flexible over time. You can also learn yoga or Pilates to improve your flexibility! | Loosen up your spine with the cat and cow pose. The cat and cow pose is a good yoga pose for beginners that can help increase flexibility in your back and core, as well as relaxing your mind and body. Start by coming to all fours on the ground. Make sure your wrists are directly under your shoulders and your knees are directly under your hips. Flatten out your back so that it resembles the flat top of a table and roll your shoulders down and back away from your ears. Breathe deeply. On an inhale, arch your back deeply and lift your head up, opening your chest. Pause. On an exhale, curve your back upward toward the ceiling, tucking your chin down into your chest and curving your shoulders slightly in. Repeat the movement for 5 to 10 breath cycles, maintaining the coordination between breath and movement. Choose poses that can be easily modified. When you start yoga or pilates practice, you may not be able to achieve the full extent of the pose. Yoga blocks and rolled or folded towels can ensure you maintain the correct posture and don't force yourself to go too far. For example, the forward fold will increase flexibility in your legs and back. You may not be able to place your palms flat on the floor beside your feet. However, you may be able to place your hands on a yoga block on the floor in front of you. Your body will be different from one day to the next. Have patience and try not to get frustrated if you find you aren't able to go as far into a pose one day as you've been able to in the past. Hold poses for several breaths. One of the keys to using yoga or pilates for flexibility is to maintain the pose and breathe deeply into the stretch. This relaxes your body and will enable you to go further into the stretch. As you inhale, think about solidifying your strength. On each exhale, release any tension and try to sink deeper into the stretch. Engage in continuous movement. Many yoga poses and pilates postures can be strung together with a movement for each breath. The continuous movement will help improve your flexibility as well as increasing blood flow to your joints. Remember to maintain focus on your breath. If you become out of breath, or feel yourself holding your breath rather than coordinating your breath with your movement, slow down. Work up to sun salutations. A sun salutation is a vinyasa , a series of yoga poses done continuously with a breath for each movement. There are 12 poses in total in the sun salutation. You'll start in a standing position, in what is known as the mountain pose in yoga. You'll move through the poses fluidly, coordinating your movement with your breath, then end once again in mountain pose. Sun salutations also provide a good cardiovascular workout, and can serve as a warm up for other, more intense stretching or flexibility work. Focus on your breath. The breath is a central part of both yoga and pilates. Take a few minutes before you begin your yoga practice to meditate on your breath. Inhale slowly through your nose, pause, then exhale slowly through your mouth. Practice regularly and consistently. You won't notice any significant improvement in your flexibility unless your practice is consistent. You don't necessarily have to practice every day, but you should be able to set aside some time 3 or 4 days a week. Start by practicing for 10 to 15 minutes 3 or 4 days a week. If you enjoy your practice, you may want to add more days, but make sure you can do this consistently. Stretch your arms and shoulders. Start your stretching regimen either standing or sitting on the edge of a sturdy chair. If you're going to stretch your arms and shoulders while sitting, make sure you're sitting with good posture. Keep your back straight and neutral with your shoulder blades tucked down in line with your spine. Reach one arm straight across your chest, pressing gently with your other hand just above your elbow until you feel a stretch. Don't push your arm to force it further than it naturally goes. Hold the stretch for about 5 seconds, breathing deeply. Then release and do the other arm. Lift one arm overhead and bend your elbow, dropping your hand behind your head. Grasp your fingers from below with the other hand if you can. If you can't, place your other hand below your elbow and push back gently until you feel a stretch in your triceps. Hold the stretch for about 5 seconds, then switch and do the other arm. Try a bridge to stretch your back. The bridge is a good whole body stretch that targets your back as well as stretching your chest, legs, and core. Begin this stretch by lying on the floor on your back with your knees bent at 90-degree angles and your feet flat on the floor. Press your arms and palms into the mat on either side of you and lift your hips until your body forms a bridge with your thighs roughly parallel to the floor. Hold the bridge for 5 to 10 seconds, breathing deeply, then release to the ground. You can repeat this 3 to 5 times. If you're looking for something more challenging, get into the bridge and then raise one leg towards the ceiling. Release your leg, then repeat with the other leg. Do a butterfly stretch. The butterfly stretch provides a good stretch for your glutes and thighs, as well as helping loosen your neck and back. Start by sitting on the floor with your legs extended. Bend your knees to bring your feet together in front of you so that the soles of your feet are touching. Grasp your feet with your hands and lower your body toward your feet on an exhale. Make sure you engage your core and keep your back neutral, shoulders rolled back and not hunched. Fold forward as far as you comfortably can. Hold the fold for 30 seconds to 2 minutes, breathing deeply. Add seated trunk twists. Return to a seated position with your legs extended straight in front of you, feet and legs pressed together. Engage your core and sit tall with your shoulders rolled back so that your shoulder blades fall in line along your spine. On an exhale, twist from the waist, bringing your hands to rest on the floor on the other side of your body. Keep your back neutral and make sure you're twisting from the waist, not angling your hips. Hold the twist for 15 to 30 seconds, then return to center and repeat with the other side. You can do 2 to 4 repetitions of this exercise on either side. Lift into a swan stretch. The swan stretch is an adaptation of a yoga and pilates exercise that really opens up your chest as well as stretching your back and core. Start this stretch by lying on the floor on your stomach with your legs extended behind you. Bend your elbows and press your palms into the floor on either side of your shoulders. On an exhale press up to extend your arms straight. Keep your shoulders back and down so they are rolling away from your ears. Try to draw your shoulder blades together, grounding your hips into the floor. Feel the stretch in your chest. Hold the position for 15 to 30 seconds, then release back down to the ground. Repeat this stretch 3 to 5 times. Kneel to stretch hip flexors and quads. This kneeling exercise is similar to lunges, but extending your back leg helps stretch your hip flexors as well as your hamstrings and quads. Start by kneeling on the floor. Step one foot forward so that your knee is at a right angle. Step forward as far as you comfortably can – you'll feel a stretch in the opposite hip. Your shin should be perpendicular to the floor, your knee directly over your ankle. Grasp your front knee with your hands and press your hips forward, breathing deeply. Hold the pose for 15 to 30 seconds, then return to a kneeling position and repeat on the other side. Warm up before starting any stretches. If you attempt to do stretching when your muscles are cold, you risk muscle strain or more significant injuries. Ideally, add your stretching regimen to the end of your regular exercise routine. Eat nutritious whole foods. While there aren't any specific foods that have been proven to increase your flexibility, a good diet is essential for healthy and strong muscles and bones. Track your eating in a food diary for a couple of weeks so you can see what you're really putting into your body. Eat foods that are as fresh as possible, rather than prepared meals, frozen dinners, and junk food. Create meal plans to ensure that your meals are balanced, and practice portion control. Drink plenty of water. Flexibility requires healthy muscles, ligaments, and tendons. You can't expect optimal performance from muscles that are dehydrated. Dehydrated muscles also are tight and stiff. If you try to stretch stiff, dehydrated muscles, you could end up with a serious injury. Get a massage. Especially if you work out intensely or regularly engage in physical labor, a massage will help work out kinks and knots that develop in overworked muscles. Over time, these kinks and knots can significantly decrease your mobility. You can use foam rollers to massage yourself, especially after workouts. Find a massage therapist and try to make an appointment for a massage once every few months. It's not only relaxing but also can help with your goal to become more flexible. Take time to relax. When you're stressed out, you can carry a lot of tension in your muscles. This will cause you to be significantly less flexible. If you don't take time to relax and unwind, you will quickly undo any progress you've made towards becoming more flexible. | Loosen up your spine with the cat and cow pose. Choose poses that can be easily modified. Hold poses for several breaths. Engage in continuous movement. Work up to sun salutations. Focus on your breath. Practice regularly and consistently. Stretch your arms and shoulders. Try a bridge to stretch your back. Do a butterfly stretch. Add seated trunk twists. Lift into a swan stretch. Kneel to stretch hip flexors and quads. Warm up before starting any stretches. Eat nutritious whole foods. Drink plenty of water. Get a massage. Take time to relax. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Treat-Anaphylactic-Shock-in-a-Dog | How to Treat Anaphylactic Shock in a Dog | To treat anaphylactic shock in a dog, watch for symptoms like sudden itching and swelling, diarrhea, vomiting, or sudden defecation. These initial symptoms will progress to shallow, rapid breathing, weakness, drooling, and lethargy. If you notice any of these symptoms, wrap your dog in a blanket and take it to a vet or animal hospital right away. The vet will likely administer antibiotics, oxygen, and intravenous fluids to treat your dog. | Notice if your dog starts itching right after being exposed to an allergen. Itching and scratching, along with the appearance of red spots on the skin and swelling, are the most common clinical signs of anaphylactic shock in dogs. This usually occurs within minutes of your dog coming into contact with an allergen. The most common allergens that cause anaphylactic shock in dogs include insect bites, pollen, mold spores, dust, fleas, and environmental pollutants. The speed and severity of the onset of these symptoms will vary, depending on how much contact your dog has had with an allergen and through what mechanism (e.g., through the skin, through an injection, etc.). The most important thing to look for is the close connection between exposure to an allergen and the appearance of these symptoms. All dogs scratch themselves, but scratching soon after contact with an allergen is more likely to indicate an allergic reaction. Look out for the rapid onset of diarrhea, vomiting, or defecation. After itching and redness, these are the next most common signs of anaphylaxis. If these symptoms appear in your dog as part of an anaphylactic shock, they will also develop very quickly after exposure to an allergen. You may notice your dog urinating more frequently or uncontrollably, as well. Lack of bowel and bladder control is another symptom of anaphylactic shock. Watch for signs of trouble breathing or moving in your dog. The initial symptoms of anaphylaxis (itching, vomiting, etc.) will eventually progress to shallow, rapid breathing, weakness or coldness in the limbs, and general lethargy. Your dog may also begin drooling excessively, even if there's no food around. You may also notice irregularities in your dog's heartbeat; it may have a weak pulse or an elevated heart rate. Some dogs may not show any early signs and may instead progress straight to collapsing. Take your dog to the vet right away if you notice the symptoms of shock. Anaphylactic shock is a serious medical emergency that requires treatment as soon as possible. If possible, have someone else drive you and your dog to the vet while you take care of it. Wrap your dog in something warm like a blanket and keep its airways clear if it's unconscious. If you live alone, it's a good idea to have an emergency contact that you can call and ask for help at the drop of a hat when your dog goes into anaphylactic shock. Expect your dog to be administered 1 or several medications. Once your dog is at the vet, they will remove the allergen if it is still present and then give your dog medications to bring their body back under control. Your dog may be given adrenaline, antihistamines, or hydrocortisone, depending on the nature of their anaphylaxis. Your dog may also be administered oxygen and intravenous fluids to prevent its blood pressure from dropping too far. Antibiotics are often given after rescuing a dog from an episode of anaphylactic shock to prevent the chance of a secondary bacterial infection. Allow your dog to remain with the vet for 24-48 hours. Since anaphylactic shock can remain seriously dangerous even after it's been initially treated, your dog will require close hospital monitoring for a few days after you take it to the vet. Once your dog is able to urinate without assistance, meaning it is able to retain fluids properly, it will be allowed to go home again. This additional monitoring will focus on your dog's pulse rate and quality, blood pressure, respiratory effort, mucous membrane color, and body temperature. Blood samples may also be taken to assess your dog's liver function, as well as the condition of its other organs. Avoid exposing your dog to allergens. Anaphylactic reactions often get worse after each episode, so it's important to keep your dog away from whatever caused its first reaction. This might mean preventing your dog from coming into contact with stinging insects by keeping it inside as much as possible, or keeping it away from environmental pollutants and harsh chemicals. If you're not sure what caused your dog's first anaphylactic reaction, the best thing to do is to keep it away from whatever environment it was in where it first went into anaphylactic shock. For instance, avoid walking your dog in the park where it first developed anaphylaxis. Change your dog’s diet if it went into shock because of a food allergen. Talk to your vet to determine if your dog is allergic to something in its dog food and to find out what food you should be feeding it. You may be required to strictly monitor the ingredients and chemicals in your dog's food in order to prevent future anaphylactic reactions. Your vet may also recommend that it not be given certain oral medications, if these were the cause of its anaphylaxis. Carry emergency medications for your dog if your vet recommends this. Depending on how at-risk your dog is of another anaphylactic reaction, your vet may give you medications to use in the event that your dog goes into shock again. While your dog will still require immediate medical treatment for anaphylaxis, the medications will help minimize the harmful effects of the episode. If your dog is allergic to insect stings, ask your vet if you should carry an EpiPen for your dog. This is a small syringe containing epinephrine that can be used to partially, though not entirely, treat your dog's allergic reaction. | Notice if your dog starts itching right after being exposed to an allergen. Look out for the rapid onset of diarrhea, vomiting, or defecation. Watch for signs of trouble breathing or moving in your dog. Take your dog to the vet right away if you notice the symptoms of shock. Expect your dog to be administered 1 or several medications. Allow your dog to remain with the vet for 24-48 hours. Avoid exposing your dog to allergens. Change your dog’s diet if it went into shock because of a food allergen. Carry emergency medications for your dog if your vet recommends this. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Make-Easy-Money | How to Make Easy Money | If you want to make money quickly, sell any old stuff you no longer need by holding a yard sale or posting ads on eBay. You could also take your old books to a book store or clothing you know longer need to a second-hand store. If this isn't an option, sign up for paid surveys at websites like OpinionOutpost or SurveySavvy. Then, become a mystery shopper so you can get paid for giving feedback about your experience in a store. Alternatively, rent out a spare room in your home through sites like AirBnB. | Sell your old stuff. There are a variety of ways to turn the things you don't use into cash, including: Hosting a garage sale Sanding, staining/painting and cleaning old furniture to sell at antique stores or pawn shops for a profit. Selling old things through eBay or Craigslist. Selling old clothes at a second-hand shop. Selling books, CDs, and games to specialty stores and media outlets like FYE or Best Buy. Selling a motorcycle or other vehicle through dealers or online. Sign up for paid surveys. While they rarely pay more than $5-10 apiece, you can complete a lot of them to earn a quick profit. Explore sites like: OpinionOutpost SurveySavvy SurveySpot Valued Opinions. Make money off of your body (for science). There are a variety of ways to make some money off your flesh and blood, including: Sign up for clinical research trials. Selling plasma. Selling sperm. Selling eggs. Do other people's chores for quick cash. The explosion of the internet has made it possible for you to sign up for a variety of low-commitment jobs to make some extra money. Unfortunately, these services may only be available in big cities. You can: Drive for Uber, Grubhub or Lyft. Shop for people with Instacart or Postmates Babysit and watch pets or houses with UrbanSitter, DogVaca, or TrustedHouseSitters.com Tutor with Wyzant, Istaedu, or Tutor.com. Rent out a room of your house. Again, the sharing economy made possible by the internet is making even easier to make a quick buck online. Try out: AirBnB HomeAway FlipKey OneFineStay. Become an online freelancer. You can write or edit, or simply complete menial tasks that machines struggle with. The pay is low, but the work is steady and you can log on whenever you want. You can do everything from writing and editing to mock trials. Try out: Writing : eLance, iWriter, WritersDomain Odd Jobs : Amazon's Mechanical Turk program. Mock Trials :eJury, OnlineVerdict.com Virtual Assistant : VirtualAssistantJobs.com, Zirtual Sign up for credit cards or accounts with bonuses. You never want to open accounts just to open them, but this can be a great way to get a quick infusion of cash. Note that many cards require a minimum purchase limit before you get your bonus, however. If you card offers cash back, use it for everything, then pay it off online as soon as you get home to avoid interest payments. Sell your things to local stores. There are many stores, local and chain, who buy products from the public at a reduced rate and then resell them in their stores. Sort through your home to find things you no longer need, want, or use and make a visit to these stores in your area. If you consider yourself quite the avid reader with a library to match, consider sorting through your archives to find old books you no longer want. Books in good condition can be bought for several dollars apiece at used-bookstores. Clothing is something everybody has, and often something we have too much of. If your wardrobe is overflowing with clothes, take a pass through and find the things that you can't fit or aren't in style anymore. You will get the best price for clothing that doesn't have holes, stains, or wear-and-tear. If your library is full of music rather than books, consider selling some of your CDs. CDs with their cases intact and without scratches or blemish can be sold for a few dollars each. Find a local music or record store in your area and see if they buy used CDs. If gaming is your thing, try sorting through all your old video games. Many video game stores will take your used games if they are brought without any scratches or blemishes in the original case. Although you may only get a fraction of the price you originally bought the games for, making a few dollars on something you no longer use is better than nothing. Try taking miscellaneous things to a local pawnshop. This allows you to resell anything from a blender you never used to your old motorcycle jacket. Sell your things directly. If you would rather be responsible for selling what you own instead of taking it to a store, consider having a garage sale or advertising your items online. Although these involve much more planning than simply making a drop-off at your favorite secondhand store, you can make much more money by doing the work yourself. Throw your own yard or garage sale. At most, you can expect a brand-new item to sell for 50% of its original price, but you will be making money back on something you're not currently using. Be sure to plan ahead by placing ads in your local newspaper and putting up signs for your sale on nearby busy streets with directions. Place big-ticket items on sites like Craigslist or eBay to advertise to a wider audience. If you have something worth a lot more money than just some used clothes and garage tools, then open an ad for it online. Craigslist is a great option for selling something right away to locals without the hassle of shipping it across country. Sell bodily materials. Now, as strange as that may sound, you can actually sell parts of your body for a lot of money. We're not talking organs, but rather things like plasma, genetic material, and long hair. If you hair is long (over ten inches) and in good health, consider cutting it off and selling it to a company that makes wigs. Untreated hair that has never been colored or relaxed gets the best price, especially if it is a unique color or texture. The longer your hair is, the more money you can make off of it! Sell your plasma at a local blood bank. Plasma is a part of your blood that is given in infusions to patients with certain medical disorders. You can donate your plasma multiple times over a few weeks, and earn on average $50 per donation. Sell your sperm. Although not every guy is comfortable with giving up his genetic material to strangers, if you are short on cash and willing to help some unknown couple have a baby then sell your sperm. You can earn up to $100 per visit. Sell your eggs. This is much more timely than selling sperm, but for any ladies who want to make a lot of money and don't mind selling their eggs, you can earn up to $10,000 for a single treatment. The process of selling eggs takes several weeks of injections and a minor outpatient procedure, and may be slightly uncomfortable. The upside is that you make a lot of money in a relatively short amount of time. Sell metal. This could range from your old jewelry to a pile of scrap metal in the backyard. Metal gets a good price, and is rather easy to find if you are looking for the cheap stuff. Gold is being bought at an all-time high right now - $1,350 per solid 24 karat ounce. Although most the gold in jewelry isn't such high quality, you could certainly make a few hundred dollars by selling some old rings or bracelets you never wear. Scrap metal is a great way to make money that most people don't necessarily think of. If you have an old car, boat, RV, or building with unnecessary metal, then consider taking it apart and selling it to a local scrap metal shop. You could make several hundred, or thousand, dollars on metal parts you may have just left to rust. Whenever you throw a party, gather all the metal cans afterwards. These can be sold to scrap metal shops for around 70 cents per pound (about 32 cans). You're not only being green by recycling trash, but making a few bucks in the process as well. Salvage old scrap metal from nearby abandoned warehouses and through dumpster diving. You may also be able to buy old metal in the form of cars or boats for cheaper than you would get paid to sell the metal. Sell something you make. Are you an excellent baker? An artist? A gardener? A carpenter? Then take your handmade goods to market! This doesn't necessarily mean that your only option is to sell at a local farmers market. For a true artisan, there are many ways to sell your wares. Try opening a shop with an online marketplace such as Etsy or eBay. These allow you to advertise your products, give brief descriptions, and promote your items around their sites. Etsy is becoming a massively successful place for unique handcrafted goods sold at high prices. Bring things you make to a local holiday bazaar, fair, or market. The people who attend these places go specifically to see the amazing products people make themselves, so the audience is already tailored for you. Some of these places may require you to pay a fee to rent a booth, but you may be able to get a selling space for free. Advertise your products to local offices and boutiques. Visit places where you might find a product similar to what you make, and ask to sell your goods there. Many local business owners are happy to support a fellow businessman by showcasing or selling their products. Sell space on your website. Are you the proud owner of a blog or website? Then consider selling ad space in the open columns of your pages. You can sign up with different affiliate links which provide ad space for major third party vendors. Then, you get paid a percentage of the amount of sales that are made through your page. The best way to make a lot of money in this fashion is to keep traffic on your website or blog high by keeping posts frequent and interesting. Rent some of your space. If you have a spare bedroom, basement, or parking spot on a busy street, consider renting it out. You are in charge of the renting process, so if at any point in time it doesn't seem to be working out for you, then you are free to cancel the agreement. If you decide to rent part of your house, make sure you write up a lease and have all your paperwork and licensing in order. This will help you to avoid accidents with renters or the government. Try advertising an extra parking space to your neighbors who may need room for multiple cars. Look at monthly rates in the area for parking to gauge how much you should be charging in order to be fair. Sell stock photos. Stock photos are simple, somewhat nondescript images that people can use for a fee in articles, brochures, presentations, etc. They don't earn much apiece, but if you upload a nice little collection, the sales can really add up – especially since photos can be sold over and over. Best of all, it doesn't get much easier than clicking off a few decent shots, uploading them, and waiting. Try “sitting” for your neighbors. Although it's easy to associate babysitting as a job for thirteen year old girls, it is actually a fast and easy way to make money. Sitting doesn't stop at children though, and can expand to include houses, pets, and gardens as well. Advertise your sitting services at nearby bulletin boards and around your neighborhood to increase the likelihood of getting hired. Pet sitting or dog walking is a great way to earn money if you're an animal-lover. When your friends, family, or neighbors head out on vacation, offer to take care of their pets for a low fee. This will help them out, and give you an easy opportunity to earn cash doing something you love. House sitting is possibly the best of the “sitting” types of jobs. You get paid to stay in someone's home and make sure there are no break-ins or accidents during a family's time away on vacation or business. Although you may only have to make daily check-ins, this is an exceedingly easy way to earn a lot of money. Do odds and ends jobs. Everyone has small tasks that they need done, whether it be cleaning the gutters, detailing their car, or deep-cleaning the house, there are plenty of tasks and chores to do. Advertise your services to friends and family who would be willing to have you do their least favorite chores at a small rate. Become a mystery shopper. A mystery shopper is a person who is paid to secretly visit stores and restaurants and report back about the visit in an online survey afterwards. You get paid about $10 on average per store, for a brief 10-15 minute run-in. The Mystery Shoppers Providers Association regulates the third parties that are hired, so visiting their site can give you access to some safe mystery shopper programs. If you are required to purchase something - food or clothing typically - you will be reimbursed for that item after completing the online survey. Get a job as an umpire or referee. Do you love sports? Then read up on your favorite game's rules and get paid to ref! For around $15 per hour-long game, you will get a little bit of extra cash for participating in your favorite sports. Make sure you are clear on the rules though, as you may have to deal with unhappy players if you make a bad call by accident. Get a job as a temp worker. Businesses often need temporary employees, so offer your services up to a temp agency. Although this might not be the quickest way to earn cash, the jobs are easy because you won't have time to be trained in elaborate tasks. Become a virtual assistant. If you have administrative experience and would like an opportunity to work from home, look into virtual assisting jobs at a site like virtualAssistants.com or TaskRabbit.com. It may take about a week to be processed, but the work is extremely convenient for stay-at-home parents or for filling in the gaps of a part-time schedule. Get a seasonal job. Many businesses and stores get extra busy at certain times of the year depending on the services they provide. Get a job that lasts a few weeks or months for a local store or office that has a busy season coming up. Work for special events. Many businesses need people for short periods to advertise or work for special conventions. You may be paid to stand on the street holding a sign, or to give out free samples of certain products at the mall. Typically the wages are hourly and are on a very short-term basis of a few days or weeks. Try a mechanical turk program. This is an online job where you are assigned a simple task which is difficult for a computer to manage. These are mundane, repetitive, but incredibly basic jobs that you work at will. Typically payment is in cents per job, so although the tasks are easy you have to put in a lot of time to make much money. Amazon offers a mechanical turk program that deposits straight into your Amazon account, but can be withdrawn as cash after you reach the $10 mark. You get to choose which job you want to do from a list of needs, but keep in mind that these jobs can be very boring. Have perseverance and you can make a bit of money in a week of work! Get a newspaper route. Although this job is best for early birds, if you are willing to wake up in the wee hours of the morn, you can make up to $10,000 a year just delivering newspapers! The best part is, because of the hours you don't have to worry about your paper route conflicting with your regular work or school schedule. Try online surveys. Reputed online survey sites pay $5-$10 per survey. You could supplement your income by just taking one or two surveys per day. Be part of a study. Universities, researchers, and pharmaceutical companies are in constant need of participants for studies. Depending on the study, you could be paid up to several hundred dollars! Most studies are looking for people who are in good health, although some have poor-health criteria they need participants to fill. Visit the websites of local universities or the department of health to find out what studies are being conducted near you. Participate in the NASA sleep study. This requires you to stay in one of their beds for three months straight with minimal physical activity. The payment for this study in particular is a whopping $10,000! Although the payment is due after months of forced bed rest. Participating in medical studies always puts you at risk for certain side-effects, although these are always very unlikely. Give your opinions. Companies want to hear what the general public thinks of the services or products they provide. To find out these opinions, many give online surveys which anyone can take and subsequently be paid for. Try visiting opinionoutpost.com, which gives dozens of different surveys to take, each being worth a few dollars. Join a focus group. These may be online or in-person, and require you to give feedback on a particular product or idea. You may be paid a few dollars, or up to a hundred depending on the time and effort needed for your group activity. Find sign-up incentives. If you were thinking about switching bank accounts, getting a new credit card, or recommending a company you like to a friend, for example, shop around for cash-back bonuses before making your decision. Advertise for companies. Businesses and corporations want their products and services to reach as many people as possible. To do this, they employ the services of everyday citizens to spread their word for them. You may be asked to advertise for them online or in-person. Have your car wrapped in advertisements. Depending on the product or service, you may be required to have the wrap placed on your car for several months or years. This, however, adds up to hundreds of dollars over time. Removing the wrap when you're finished does no damage to your car. Sell your status updates for your Twitter, Instagram, or Facebook accounts. You will be given your choice of certain advertisements that will show up as a status update posted by you on your favorite online social media. You get paid more for the number of ads you post and followers you have. Visit ad.ly.com for some introductory advertisements. Volunteer time at a food co-op. Many cities have local food co-ops in which the workers are volunteer only. What's the plus side of volunteering then? You will often be given free groceries and food in exchange for your work services. This is essentially money paying for groceries you would have to buy anyway! Make money via your smartphone. Apps like Field Agent, CheckPoints, WeReward, MyLikes, and Gigwalk allow you to complete small tasks (anything from snapping a photo of yourself at a cafe to scanning a barcode) for a few dollars. These are great ways to make money while you're out to lunch or going about your grocery shopping. Search for unclaimed money or property. Go to unclaimed.org to be linked to the official pages of US states or Canadian provinces you have lived in, then follow the instructions to search for and, if necessary, claim funds owed to you. If you ever had a deposit or check that went unclaimed because you couldn't be found, this is the place to go. | Sell your old stuff. Sign up for paid surveys. Make money off of your body (for science). Do other people's chores for quick cash. Rent out a room of your house. Become an online freelancer. Sign up for credit cards or accounts with bonuses. Sell your things to local stores. Sell your things directly. Sell bodily materials. Sell metal. Sell something you make. Sell space on your website. Rent some of your space. Sell stock photos. Try “sitting” for your neighbors. Do odds and ends jobs. Become a mystery shopper. Get a job as an umpire or referee. Get a job as a temp worker. Work for special events. Try a mechanical turk program. Get a newspaper route. Try online surveys. Be part of a study. Give your opinions. Find sign-up incentives. Advertise for companies. Volunteer time at a food co-op. Make money via your smartphone. Search for unclaimed money or property. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Straighten-a-Synthetic-Wig | How to Straighten a Synthetic Wig | To straighten a synthetic wig, try putting it in your bathroom and running a hot, steamy shower, which will make it easier to brush out any curls and straighten them. You can also wet the wig and then use a brush and a hairdryer on a warm setting to straighten it. If you don't have a hairdryer on hand, you can use boiling water to straighten the wig instead. Just boil some water to between 320 and 356 degrees Fahrenheit and then pour it over your wig, letting it air dry or using a fan to speed up the drying process. | Get a Styrofoam wig head. You can buy them in costume shops, well-stocked arts and crafts shops, wig shops, and in certain beauty supply shops. You can also buy them online. They look like a human head, complete with a neck, except that they are made out of white Styrofoam. Put the wig head on a secure stand so the fibers can hang loosely. You can buy a wig stand online or from a wig shop. You can also make own by sticking a wooden dowel into a wooden base with a hole drilled into the middle of it. Here are some other options for wig stands: A toilet plunger will work well for short and medium-length wigs. A soda bottle filled with water, sand, or rocks will work for short wigs. A camera tripod will allow you to rotate the wig head to any angle. Place your wig over the wig head and secure it with pins. Push a pin right through the top of the head, at the temples, along the sides, and at the nape. You can use either sewing pins or T-pins. De-tangle your wig with a wide toothed comb or a wire wig brush. Gently run the comb or brush through the fibers. Work in small sections, and start from the ends first. Work your way up to the top. Never brush a wig straight down from the roots to the ends. Never use your personal hairbrush. The oils from your hair will damage the fibers. Do not use a regular hairbrush. This includes boar bristle and paddle brushes. This can also damage the fibers and mar the finish. Gently run a wide-toothed comb through your wig to get rid of any tangles. Once you get your wig wet, you will not be able to brush it again until the fibers dry. Brushing a wet wig can lead to frizz and damaged fibers. Place a pot of water on the stove and clip a thermometer to the side. You will need to boil your water to a specific temperature range. Also, try to use the largest pot you can find so that you will have enough water to pour over your wig. The longer your wig is, the larger pot you will need. Boil the water to 320°F to 356°F (160°C to 180°C). This is very important. If the water is not hot enough, the wig won't straighten. If the water is too hot, the fibers may melt. Pour the hot water over the wig. If you have a very long wig, consider dipping the entire wig (still on the wig head) into the pot for 10 to 15 seconds, then pulling the wig out. Place the wig head back onto its stand. Do not brush the wig. If you see some tangles, you can gently smooth them out with your fingers. Brushing a wet wig will damage the fibers. Let the wig dry. If you are in a hurry, you can place the wig in front of a fan. You can also blow a hairdryer over the wig, just make sure to use the "cool" setting. Repeat the process if necessary. This method will usually straighten wavy wigs the first time. If your wig is very curly, you may need to repeat the whole process one or two more times. It also depends on how straight you want your wig to be. Let the wig dry completely before straightening it again. Put the wig stand in the bathroom. If there are any windows open, be sure to close them. You want to trap as much steam as possible. Run hot water in the shower until the room is steamy. How long it takes for the steam to appear will depend on how warm or cold the room was to begin with. Gently brush the wig with a wide toothed comb or a wire wig brush. Always start brushing from the ends first, and work your way up to the roots. The steam will heat the fibers up and cause the curls to loosen. Remove the wig from the room once condensation starts to build. Transfer the wig to a cool, dry place. Gather all of the hair, except the bottom section, into a loose bun at the top of the wig. Secure the bun with a hair clip. The only hair that is hanging loose should be the hair that is sewn along the bottom edge/hem of the wig. If you look closely, you may notice that the hair is sewn to the wig cap in rows. These are known as wefts. Pay attention to these. You will be using them as your guide. Spray the bottom layer with water. This will keep the fibers from overheating. Gather a 1 to 2 inch (2.54 to 5.08 centimeters) wide section of hair. The best place to grab this section is from the front of the wig, at one of the temples. This way, you can work your way around the back of the wig and to the other side. Smooth the fibers down with a wide toothed comb or a wire wig brush. Make sure that the section is completely tangle-free. Set the hairdryer to a warm heat setting. Do not use a high heat setting; this will cause the fibers to melt. Move the comb/brush and hairdryer downwards at the same time. Once the section of hair is completely tangle-free, place the comb/brush at the roots of the wig. Make sure that the bristles are under the fibers. Hold the hairdryer a few inches away from the fibers with the nozzle pointing towards the fibers. Slowly move the comb/brush and hairdryer down towards the ends of the section at the same time. Keep the fibers between the comb/brush and the hairdryer nozzle at all times. Repeat, working upwards by section. Once you have finished a row, undo the bun and let the next layer fall loose. Gather the rest of the hair into a loose bun and secure it once again with a clip. Use the wefts/rows as your guide. You can work with one to two wefts/rows at a time. Use this method only on heat-resistant wigs. Some wigs are made from heat-resistant fibers. This means that the usual wig straightening methods will not work on them. You can, however, use a hair straightening on a heat-resistant wig. Do not use this method on any other synthetic hair wig. The heat will melt the fibers. The wig will usually say on the packaging whether or not it is heat-resistant. If you bought your wig online, the website will tell you if the fibers are heat-resistant. If the website does not say anything, the wig is most likely made from regular synthetic fibers that are not heat-resistant. Pull the wig hair up into a loose bun, but leave the bottom-most weft loose. Secure the wig hair with a clip. The hair that is attached to the hem of the wig should be the only part that is hanging loose. This is the first layer of hair that you will be straightening. If you look closely at your wig, you may notice that the hair is sewn into the wig cap in rows. These are known as wefts. You will be using them as your guide. Take a small section of hair and smooth out any tangles. Select a 1 to 2 inch (2.54 to 5.08 centimeters) wide section of hair. The best place to take the hair is from one of the temples. This way, you can work your way around the back of the wig and to the other side. Once you have your section, smooth out any tangles with a wide toothed comb. Always work from the ends first; never run a comb straight down from the roots to the ends. Spray the small section of hair with water. Fill a spray bottle with water, then damped the section with it. Turn your iron on to the lowest heat setting possible. Try to get the temperature somewhere between 160°C and 180°C (320°F to 356°F). This will be the safest for your wig. Some heat-resistant wigs can handle temperatures up to 410°F (210°C). Check the website where you bought the wig to find out what is the safest temperature for it. Run the section through the iron like you would with your own hair. You may see some steam, which is normal. If necessary, go over the strand a few more times until it is as straight as you want it. Allow the fibers to cool down. Once they have cooled, you can run your comb through them and let them hang naturally from the wig. Repeat the process for the rest of the row. Check for any ripples, and smooth them out with the hair straightener. Once you have finished that row, undo the bun and let down the next layer of hair. Once again, try to use the wig wefts as a guide. You can work with one to two wefts at a time. | Get a Styrofoam wig head. Put the wig head on a secure stand so the fibers can hang loosely. Place your wig over the wig head and secure it with pins. De-tangle your wig with a wide toothed comb or a wire wig brush. Gently run a wide-toothed comb through your wig to get rid of any tangles. Place a pot of water on the stove and clip a thermometer to the side. Boil the water to 320°F to 356°F (160°C to 180°C). Pour the hot water over the wig. Do not brush the wig. Let the wig dry. Repeat the process if necessary. Put the wig stand in the bathroom. Run hot water in the shower until the room is steamy. Gently brush the wig with a wide toothed comb or a wire wig brush. Remove the wig from the room once condensation starts to build. Gather all of the hair, except the bottom section, into a loose bun at the top of the wig. Spray the bottom layer with water. Gather a 1 to 2 inch (2.54 to 5.08 centimeters) wide section of hair. Smooth the fibers down with a wide toothed comb or a wire wig brush. Set the hairdryer to a warm heat setting. Move the comb/brush and hairdryer downwards at the same time. Repeat, working upwards by section. Use this method only on heat-resistant wigs. Pull the wig hair up into a loose bun, but leave the bottom-most weft loose. Take a small section of hair and smooth out any tangles. Spray the small section of hair with water. Turn your iron on to the lowest heat setting possible. Run the section through the iron like you would with your own hair. Allow the fibers to cool down. Repeat the process for the rest of the row. Once you have finished that row, undo the bun and let down the next layer of hair. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Use-a-Pedometer | How to Use a Pedometer | To use a pedometer, fasten it to the edge of your pocket, waistband, or belt so it's near your hips and legs to more accurately count your steps. However, if you have a pedometer that's meant to be worn around your wrist or on your shoe, make sure to attach it securely. Once your pedometer is set, start walking, running, or hiking to let it count your steps. At the end of the day, take your pedometer off to see how many steps you took. | If necessary, set the length of your steps. Most kinds of pedometer will automatically be able to detect your steps without any input from you. However, to be able to calculate the total distance you've walked, some require you to set the average length of your stride. If you're unsure of whether your pedometer requires this information, consult its operating manual. To find your average step length , grab a tape measure, start walking in a straight line, stop suddenly at a random step (like, for instance, step number seven), and measure the distance between the heels of your feet. No two models of pedometers are exactly alike, so the way you input your average step length for one may not be the same as for others. Some common pedometers are set like this: Press the "Mode" button until you see a reading for your miles traveled. Press "Set." You will see a default step length setting — usually about 30 in (75 cm). Adjust your step length with the appropriate buttons on the pedometer. Fasten the pedometer on. Pedometers count your steps by recording the number of times they feel a "shake" or "bump" that occur throughout the day. Usually, these happen with each step you take, so the number you see on your pedometer is usually a good (sometimes even exact ) measure of how many steps you've taken. Because pedometers work this way, for a pedometer to be able to count your steps, it has to be attached to your clothes or body. The most common types of pedometers are worn by clipping them to the edge of a pocket, the waistband of a pair of pants, or a belt so that they rest on the hips. These usually work best if they're aligned with the center of the thigh. If your pedometer comes with a safety band, try fastening it to a belt loop to prevent the pedometer from falling off. Note that not all pedometers are worn at the waist. Some, for instance, are worn around the wrist. In this case, the pedometer is usually secured exactly like a wristwatch. Some high-end devices called accelerometers that function similarly to pedometers are even worn on the foot or ankle. Start moving! Once you've attached your pedometer securely and ensured that it's on, you can usually begin moving and it will count your steps automatically. Every time the pedometer shakes from the up-and-down motion of an average stride, it registers another step. No input is needed on your part — you can simply forget about your pedometer until the end of the day! You're not limited just to walking when you wear your pedometer. You can also jog , run, or sprint and the pedometer should record your steps during these activities as well. Check the pedometer at the end of the day. When you're done walking for the day (for instance, right before you go to bed), remove your pedometer and check the number of steps you've made. If you're aiming to increase your fitness, record number and take pride in the day's accomplishment. Over time, you can increase your fitness by gradually raising the number of steps you take per day. Repeat every day. Over the next few days, get into the routine of putting your pedometer on once you start moving and taking it off before you get into bed. Record or make note of each day's results. These simple actions are all you need to do to start a record of your daily step counts! Once they become a habit, you should barely even notice your pedometer while you wear it. Set regular goals. Many people start wearing pedometers as part of an effort to get in shape. In these cases, it's usually easiest to get motivated to take more steps by setting small, clearly-defined goals for yourself. These goals should provide some increasing level of challenge from week to week, but should be completely within your grasp. Many walking resources recommend that increasing your pace by about 500 steps per week is a reasonable fitness goal. In other words, you'd aim to walk about 3,500 steps per day during your first week, 4,000 during your second, and so on. Set ambitious long-term goals. It's not practical to simply increase your step count each week forever. At some point, most people want to find a sustainable level of activity that meets their fitness needs and can be easily balanced with their other work and life obligations. This should be your long-term goal. Give yourself plenty of time to achieve this by slowly ramping up your step counts from week to week until it's within your grasp. Don't aim for your final goal right off the bat — suddenly imposing major challenges on yourself is a great way to fail and discourage yourself. One long-term step goal that's widely advertised as being desirable for adults is 10,000 steps per day. For someone with an average-length stride, this is a little less than 5 mi (8 km). While 10,000 steps per day can be a great fitness goal, it's worth noting that the goal may be unsustainable for some groups of people (like the ill or elderly). In addition, this level of activity is probably too low for teens and children. Keep a journal of your daily results. To track long-term progress, it's a wise idea to keep track of your daily pedometer counts in a step journal. Once you've accumulated a few months' worth of data, it's easy to see the changes you've made — you can even make a line graph to get a visual representation of your progress. Note that your journal doesn't have to be an actual, paper one. Digital journals work just as well. Spreadsheet programs like Microsoft Excel make it exceptionally easy to transfer your data into a graph. When in doubt, consult your doctor. If you're unsure of whether your short-term or long-term step goals are reasonable, talk to your doctor. Only a trained medical professional will be able to tell you exactly what sorts of exercise are right for you based on your unique medical history. If you have a medical condition that affects the level of exercise you can perform (like, for instance, heart disease), consult with your doctor before you start using a pedometer, not after. Though the dangers of walking are usually quite low, some medical problems can change this. Walk at a brisk pace. In general, the quicker you move, the harder your body has to work, the more energy it uses, and the more calories you burn. For instance, a moderate-weight person can burn about 70 more calories per hour by increasing their walking speed from 3.5 to 4.5 mph (5.6 to 7.2 km/h). Thus, if you're interested in either burning calories or boosting your athletic potential, you'll want to move faster, rather than slower. Most health resources define "brisk-paced" walking at about 3.0 mph (4.8 km/h) or greater — if you're unsure of where to start, this is a good benchmark pace. Note that, in addition to providing better exercise, brisk-paced walking also decreases the amount of time you'll need to take to walk any given distance, freeing up more time for you to do other things with your day! Use movements besides walking. As noted above, pedometers don't just measure steps while walking. Since they record any sort of rhythmic, repetitive, up-and-down motion, they're also useful for recording your steps during any number of other exercise activities. Keep in mind, however, that because your average stride length may differ for these activities, the distance reading you get may not be accurate. Below are just a few other activities for which a pedometer can measure your "steps": Running Hiking Climbing stairs Jump roping Some pedometers even have options to measure your speed and distance on a bicycle. Use your pedometer to help you count calories. In general, people lose weight over time if they spend more calories per day than they take in from their food. If walking is your only form of daily exercise, you can use your pedometer to help you stay on track for your weight loss. Since your pedometer can tell you how far you've walked, you can use any online calorie calculator to find how many calories you've burnt based on the distance you walked. Add this to your basal metabolic rate (BMR), the number of calories you burn simply from living, and you'll know approximately how many calories you spent during the day. For instance, a 180 lb (81 kg) person who walks five miles over the course of three hours during the day burns about 720 calories. If this person's BMR is about 1,800 calories (typical for a young 6-foot tall male) they burnt about 2,520 calories during the day, so eating fewer calories than this would cause them to lose weight. Keep yourself motivated for the long haul. Keeping your daily activity at a reasonable level isn't like a New Year's resolution that can be abandoned a few weeks after it's made — it should be a lifelong commitment. People who make a habit of exercising (with or without a pedometer) experience demonstrably longer, healthier lives on average than people who don't. However, these benefits are only the result of sustained, long-term fitness commitments, so try to stay motivated as you use your pedometer to make the task of consistently exercising much easier. Below are just a few ways to get "pumped up" for your fitness goals: Remind yourself of your goals when you don't feel like exercising. Reward yourself when you achieve minor goals. Get a healthy amount of rest every day. Listen to exciting, captivating music. Watch inspirational movies. Take occasional breaks from your fitness routine. Tell other people about your goals. | If necessary, set the length of your steps. Fasten the pedometer on. Start moving! Check the pedometer Repeat every day. Set regular goals. Set ambitious long-term goals. Keep a journal of your daily results. When in doubt, consult your doctor. Walk at a brisk pace. Use movements besides walking. Use your pedometer to help you count calories. Keep yourself motivated for the long haul. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Make-Buttermilk-Biscuits | How to Make Buttermilk Biscuits | To make buttermilk biscuits, cut 6 tablespoons of butter into small squares and place them in the freezer for 10 minutes. Next, combine flour, baking soda, baking powder, and salt, then cut the butter into the flour mixture using 2 sharp knives. Afterwards, pour in cold buttermilk and fold gently until you have a loose, wet dough. Roll the dough until it's ½ inch thick, then fold it in half and roll it out again. After repeating this process 4 more times, cut the dough into individual rounds, and bake on a greased baking sheet for 10-12 minutes at 450 degrees F. | Preheat your oven to 450 degrees F (220º C). Biscuits need to cook quickly to puff up, allowing the outside to crisp while the inside stays soft, flaky and doughy. High heat will accomplish this with flying colors. Cut six tablespoons butter into small squares and freeze them for 5-10 minutes. The butter needs to be hard when it is cut into the four. This keeps it in hard layers that separate the flour, creating the flaky biscuit layers as the butter quickly melts, forming air pockets in the biscuit. This only happens with cold, near-frozen butter. If you don't have a pastry knife, a capital D-shaped tool with 4-5 thin wire blades, you can put your two best kitchen knives in the freezer as well. Measure out your dry ingredients as the butter is freezing. Grab your 2 cups flour, 1/4 teaspoon baking soda, 1 tablespoon baking powder, and 1 teaspoon of salt. and mix them together in a large mixing bowl. Use a fork, whisk, or mesh strainer to get any clumps out. Even consistency (no lumps) and well mixed dry ingredients will lead to better biscuits every time. Cut the cold butter into the flour using your favorite method, aiming for a crumbly consistency. Your goal is to cut the butter into small, thin chunks without heating it up too much. This coats all the butter in flour and creates air pockets. As such, you want to keep your hands away from it as much as possible, otherwise, you'll get dense, unenjoyable biscuits. The final mixture should have smaller, 1/2 cm cuts of butter and resemble a crumb topping on a pie. You have a few options, but should always work quickly to avoid extra heat: Pastry Knife: This tool has several thin wire blades, letting you easily cut the butter into small pieces quickly, with minimal friction. It is a D-shaped tool. Manual Cutting: Take your two sharpest knives and use them to make X-shaped cuts into the bottom of the bowl, sifting to get the butter near the blades and cut effectively. Food Processor: Go gently, on the lowest setting, stopping when you still have relatively large (1/2 - 1cm in width) chunks of butter. Create a "well" or hole in the flour mixture and pour in the cold buttermilk. Start with a cup, but know that you may want to add a little more if the dough is sticky and hard to work with. Remember to work with cold buttermilk, not room temperature, to keep the butter from melting. No Buttermilk? No problem! Substitute 1 cup milk + 1 TB lemon juice or vinegar, or substitute a cup of plain, full-fat yogurt. Gently fold the buttermilk until you have a shaggy wet dough. You want to stir as gently, and as little, as possible. Use your fingers to start working in the flour at the edge of the well. Slowly incorporate more and more flour in with a gently scooping motion, pulling flour from the outside into the center. Never knead biscuit dough unless you want hard, dense cakes. When done, you want a shaggy, loose, and wet dough. It should be a bit sticky, and not fully formed. This is good. You will have to do some light pressing and mixing to get all the liquid in, but try to do as little work as possible to get a roughly consistent ball of dough. Lay dough out on a well-floured work surface. Sprinkle some flour on a large cutting board or other kitchen surface and plop the dough down. Pour any shaggy bits of dough on top of the dough before working. Using your fingers or a rolling pin, gently spread the dough out until it is roughly a 1/2-inch thick. You can massage the dough from the edges out or use a rolling pin to evenly spread it out. Either way, take your time for the best biscuits. Physically working dough creates breaks down flour, creating rubbery strands of gluten that lead to denser, heavier breads. Sprinkle some flour on your hands or the rolling pin to prevent sticking. For now, don't worry about a perfectly even thickness. Just keep working it until it is close, then move on. Fold the dough in half, then again spread it until it is roughly 1/2-inch thick. Again, work slowly, methodically, and without excess force. Don't worry about getting it just perfect. If the dough is sticking to the surface, add a little flour and flip it over to work on the other side. Repeat this folding and flattening 4-6 more times. More folds equal more flakes, but there is a limit -- too much folding can lead to you overworking the dough. Everyone has their own preferences and style, so the best thing to do is stick to 4-5 total folds the first time, testing the biscuits, and adjusting next time. When done, you should have a nice square of dough, roughly 1/2 inch thick. Using the lip of a glass cup, cut the dough into individual rounds. You can use a knife or a specialty cutter, but the floured rim of a drinking glass makes perfectly shaped biscuits every time. Note that, in general, smaller biscuits are easier to cook to perfection, since they take less time and retain their moist interior better. Don't twist the cutter as you pull it out of the dough. This seals up the edges of the biscuit, which need to be open to get air and steam inside. Lightly re-flatten any excess dough, fold & flatten it once more, and then make the last few biscuits. The first batch you cut out will always be best, but the "scrape" dough is still delicious. You could also try a few "drop" biscuits, which are shaggy, barely formed balls of dough that resemble scones more than their flat biscuit brethren. Place the biscuits on a lightly floured or buttered baking sheet or dish. If you have parchment paper or a nonstick, oven-safe pan, this will do as well. How you place your biscuits, as well, will impact the final product: For higher, taller biscuits place the biscuits so that they are touching, preferably also touching the edges of a lipped pan or dish. Cast-iron pans work well. For wider, shorter biscuits separate the biscuits by 1-2 inches apiece. Optionally, drizzle some melted butter on top of each biscuit before cooking. This can help them develop the wonderful golden brown sheen of the best biscuits. It also doesn't hurt the taste, giving them added richness. For truly decadent bakers, you can also drizzle a little sugar into the butter for a sweet kick. In a pinch, a light brush of water, milk, or a whipped egg will also help them cook with a crispy golden top. Cook the biscuits for 10-12 minutes. When done, the tops and sides should be golden brown. The sides will be yellow-white, and still a little soft. If you have an uneven cooking oven, or just want to be sure they cook well, quickly turn them once while cooking. Put them on the highest rack possible for the best, most golden-brown tops. Remove the biscuits from the oven and cool on a wire rack for 2-3 minutes before serving. Biscuits are meant, always, to be served hot, and they lose their wonder when they cool. Still, give them 2-3 minutes out the oven to finish cooking, let the steam build up the flakes inside, and prevent burnt tongues. Finished. | Preheat your oven to 450 degrees F (220º C). Cut six tablespoons butter into small squares and freeze them for 5-10 minutes. Measure out your dry ingredients as the butter is freezing. Cut the cold butter into the flour using your favorite method, aiming for a crumbly consistency. Create a "well" or hole in the flour mixture and pour in the cold buttermilk. Gently fold the buttermilk until you have a shaggy wet dough. Lay dough out on a well-floured work surface. Using your fingers or a rolling pin, gently spread the dough out until it is roughly a 1/2-inch thick. Fold the dough in half, then again spread it until it is roughly 1/2-inch thick. Repeat this folding and flattening 4-6 more times. Using the lip of a glass cup, cut the dough into individual rounds. Lightly re-flatten any excess dough, fold & flatten it once more, and then make the last few biscuits. Place the biscuits on a lightly floured or buttered baking sheet or dish. Optionally, drizzle some melted butter on top of each biscuit before cooking. Cook the biscuits for 10-12 minutes. Remove the biscuits from the oven and cool on a wire rack for 2-3 minutes before serving. Finished. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Finish-an-Attic | How to Finish an Attic | Before finishing an attic, get the necessary permits from your local Housing Commission so you don't get in trouble later on if you try to sell your house. Once you have a permit, install subfloor panels over the floor joists so you can lay down flooring. Next, run wires to the ceiling for electricity and light fixtures before filling the roof cavities with rolled insulation. Then, install drywall over the insulation, and use drywall tape and mud to smooth the seams. Finally, prime and paint the drywall using a light, bright color, and lay down flooring to finish the room. | Check the ceiling height. For a finished attic to be to code, it must satisfy the same living requirements of other rooms, sometimes called the "rule of sevens." Any living space in a home needs to have at least 7 feet (2.1 m) of clearance from the floor to the ceiling, and there needs to be at least 70 square feet of space available, at least 7 feet (2.1 m) in each direction. At least 50 percent of the attic space must have 7 foot (2.1 m) clearance. Measure the clearance and estimate the square footage of your attic. If it satisfies this and the following criteria in this section, you're good go get started in finishing the project. Make sure the attic has a full-size staircase. Building code also requires that the prospective attic living space be accessible by a full-size staircase with at least 6-foot 8-inch clearance above it. Attics only accessible by trapdoor style staircases or ladders aren't technically "finishable." Make certain the attic has two exits. To satisfy fire codes, the attic must have an alternative exist in the event of an emergency. An easily accessible window counts, or some other variety of exit from the attic. Install a dormer if your attic isn't up to code. If you're committed to finishing your attic, but the measurements just don't add up, you can consult an architect to design an expansion if you're willing to get into a much bigger project. Get the proper home building permit in your area. To make sure your project will be legal and up to code, you'll need to schedule an inspection at some point when the project is finished and obtain the necessary building permits from the city. Generally, these will be available from the Housing Commission or the City Planning department. While it may seem like an easy-to-skip step, there's the possibility of legal trouble if you try to sell your house later and you've remodeled without obtaining the legal permits necessary to complete the task. Play it safe and get the right paperwork. Remove any existing loose or blown insulation in the attic. Use a builder's vacuum to get all of the small pieces cleaned out of the area. You might consider renting a commercial air purifier for the duration of the project to minimize the possibility of inhaling the tiny insulation strands, which can be hazardous. Lay a sub-floor, if necessary. Most attics will need a sub-floor to be laid that you can build on top of. Cut sub-floor panels to the appropriate size and install them over the joist beams. Screw down into joists at 3 foot (0.91 m) (91.44 cm) intervals using wood screws. Depending on your plan, you may want to also add room dividers or supplementary knee walls to your attic space. If there are any internal walls going up, frame them after installing the sub-floor, now that you've got a surface to build upon. If you want flat walls as opposed to the sloped walls you'll get in most attics, it would be appropriate to install a few knee walls. Wire the attic for electricity. Install the electrical wiring across the ceiling to the designated spots where the light fixtures will be hung, leaving an 8 inch (20.32 cm) wire hanging (called a lighting pigtail) to connect the light fixtures. Run the electrical wire to the electrical outlets. As a rule of thumb there should be at least 1 electrical outlet every 10 feet (3.05 m). Unless you have electrical experience, it is a good idea to hire a professional to do the electrical work to ensure that it meets or exceeds current code requirements. Install new rolled insulation between the wall studs. Cut each strip, or batt, to the exact length of the cavity. Press them in place and staple through the paper to the studs. Install the rolled insulation in the floor by cutting to size, pressing into the space between joists and attaching with wire fasteners. If you need to use 2 or more batts to fill in a cavity, be certain that they butt up against each other firmly. Hang drywall over the wall insulation. Hang drywall in sheet-sized sections of 4 feet (1.2 m) by 8 feet (2.4 m) (121.92 cm by 243.84 cm) with drywall screws at 8 inch (20.32 cm) intervals. Cut smaller drywall pieces with a razor knife to fill in the remaining areas. Apply drywall tape over all the seams, then apply drywall mud over the tape, using a mud blade. Slather it on thick and then scrape the excess off with the edge of the blade. Allow to dry before proceeding. Prime and paint the walls. It may take 2 to 3 coats to cover the new drywall. Before you put up wallpaper or decorate the walls in any other way, it's important to put down a primer coat to create an even surface amenable to your project. Painting the attic room white is a popular choice to create the sense of space in what can seem somewhat cramped of an area. If you're happy giving the walls a frequent scrubbing, consider a nice white shade and color scheme for the room. Spend extra on the ceiling. Instinctively, eyes will be drawn to the sloped ceiling in most attics, so it's a good idea to plan accordingly and finish it with an attractive texture. Wood panels are popular, as well as bead board. Use varying lengths of wood to produce an interesting an asymmetrical effect to play with the space. Install the flooring. In attics, carpeting is popular to cut down on the noise of upstairs traffic. If you want to lay hardwood floors, consider putting down some substantial rugs both to cut the noise component and to keep the room feeling comfortable. Trim the room and decorate. Install base boards, light fixtures, electrical outlets and switch plate covers. Decorate the room to your taste. Attic space makes for a popular: Bedroom for a teenager Artist studio Office Crash pad Man-cave Band practice space | Check the ceiling height. Make sure the attic has a full-size staircase. Make certain the attic has two exits. Install a dormer if your attic isn't up to code. Get the proper home building permit in your area. Remove any existing loose or blown insulation in the attic. Lay a sub-floor, if necessary. Wire the attic for electricity. Install new rolled insulation between the wall studs. Hang drywall over the wall insulation. Prime and paint the walls. Spend extra on the ceiling. Install the flooring. Trim the room and decorate. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Get-Help-Housebreaking-a-Dog-on-a-Limited-Budget | How to Get Help Housebreaking a Dog on a Limited Budget | To get help housebreaking a dog on a limited budget, you can ask your local dog shelters if any of their volunteers would be willing to help. You can also check with your vet to see if they know anyone like a technician or intern who could housetrain your dog at a discounted rate. Another option is to find someone willing to housebreak your dog in exchange for other services, such as you cleaning their house or landscaping their yard. | Inquire at local dog shelters. Dog shelters are generally kept running by volunteers. And these volunteers all have one thing in common—they love dogs! Check with your local dog shelters for recommendations on volunteers or associates looking to pick up extra work as a pet sitter. These people will likely charge less than a professional pet sitter and, because of their love of dogs, you can assume they will take good care of your pup. There may be a wall with lists of services on it at your local shelter as well. Check to see if there are any pet sitting or training services offered at a discounted rate. Ask your vet for recommendations. Your vet's office may be able to guide you to someone who is willing to housetrain your dog at a discounted rate as well. They often have technicians or interns who have flexible schedules and may be looking to make some money on the side by performing these kinds of jobs. Ask about buddy discounts. Much like a referral program, some professionals may offer discounts if you bring in more than one dog to their business. Maybe you have a friend who is also trying to housebreak their dog, or is in need of another service, like dog walking or extended pet sitting while they are on vacation. Ask if you can receive a discounted rate for referring other people to their business. Trade with neighbors. Do you have a neighbor who also has a dog (or another animal)? Ask them if they'd be interested in working out a trade. For example, if they help you housetrain your dog, you can watch their dog while they are out of town for a few days. Look for neighbors whose work schedule is opposite yours. If you are both gone during the same hours of the day this arrangement won't be much help. Trade services. You can also offer to trade other services. Do you own a house cleaning or landscaping business? Or teach yoga classes on the weekends? Ask pet sitters if they'd be willing to accept a trade instead of money. Some may be willing to help you housebreak your dog at no charge or at a deep discount if you offer them free or discounted rates on your services. Make sure you get your agreement in writing, just in case. This will help cover you if the other party does not stand by their original promises. Check websites like Craigslist for local professionals that will accept a trade instead of money. Ask about pro bono opportunities. It's also possible that some professionals offer some of their work pro bono, or free. Although this is not very common, if you are unable to properly house train your dog and can't afford to pay someone because of extenuating circumstances (a death in the family, or debilitating accident, for example) these professionals may consider offering their services pro bono in certain cases. Be ready and willing to explain your situation and why you can't train your dog yourself. There may also be a waiting list for pro bono services, as they are most likely not offered very frequently. Make it a family effort. If this is a family dog, make sure everyone takes responsibility for doing their part to help housebreak it properly. Assign everyone a day or two throughout the week on which they are responsible for following the potty training schedule. Print out a schedule and hang it on the refrigerator (or wherever it will be seen by everyone). Make sure you are specific about who is taking care of the dog on what days and what this responsibility entails. Be consistent. Everyone needs to follow the same schedule and ensure they are giving the dog all the same instructions during its housetraining. The more consistent you are in training, the quicker your dog will learn where to go and where not to go to the bathroom. Ask responsible teenagers. Teenagers are often trying to make some extra money by picking up after-school jobs or working over their summer break. Ask some of the kids in your family, around your neighborhood, or your friends' children if they would be interested. You can likely find a kid who loves dogs and is willing to help you housebreak yours at a much cheaper rate than a professional. Make sure you leave very specific directions for your helper and stress the importance of following them. Dogs that are being housebroken need to follow a strict routine to be successful. Ensure you find someone who is responsible and will do what you ask of them. Consistency is key to housetraining your dog so you need someone who will take this job seriously and show up when they are supposed to. Ask retirees. You may also have a few neighbors or relatives who are retired and enjoy your dog's company. Ask them to help you housetrain your dog. They will most likely have a flexible schedule and be responsible and trustworthy, following your schedule and directions closely. Help them out in return. For example, you could offer to help put up or take down their Christmas lights, mow their grass, or clean out their gutters in return for their help. Ask co-workers. Depending on the type of job you have, you may also be able to ask a few of your co-workers for help. If you have any co-workers who work at different times than you, see if they'd be willing to stop by your house on their way to or from work to check on your dog and let it out. This can help cut down the amount of time your dog is alone before you get home and give it a chance to use the bathroom, as well as allow any accidents to be cleaned up more quickly. If you work somewhere with a very relaxed environment, ask your boss if you can bring your dog to work with you while it is housetraining. Be sure having your dog in the office won't affect you or your co-workers productivity negatively. If you think it might, this is probably not a good idea. | Inquire at local dog shelters. Ask your vet for recommendations. Ask about buddy discounts. Trade with neighbors. Trade services. Ask about pro bono opportunities. Make it a family effort. Ask responsible teenagers. Ask retirees. Ask co-workers. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Walk-Gracefully | How to Walk Gracefully | Walking gracefully might take some practice to get used to, but the process is simple. Walk with your back straight and your shoulders relaxed. Keep your head up and look straight in front of you to radiate confidence. Hold your arms at your sides or let them sway slightly in time with your footsteps. You can also draw your lower belly in while you walk to help you maintain a good posture. Walk at a speed that feels comfortable and relaxed for you. If you're wearing heels, you'll probably need to walk a bit slower. | Keep your head up. The first step to mastering a graceful walking posture is to make sure your head is always in a natural, upright position, instead of bent forward or pointed towards the sky. You will know that your head is in the right position if your chin in parallel to the floor. You should also be conscious of not jutting your head out in front of you, which can often happen when you walk in heels. If you notice that you are doing this, try to lean back slightly so that your head is in line with your spine. Be mindful of your shoulders. Try to keep your shoulders down and back. You want to avoid having them hunched forward or elevated near your ears at all times, whether you are walking or not. If you're not sure about the position of your shoulders, try standing with your back against a wall. You shoulders should be far enough back that they both touch the wall, but not so far back that they prevent your upper spine from touching the wall. Aim for a straight spine. If you try too hard to avoid hunching over, you might find that you are arching your spine. This is not ideal posture either, so try to relax a bit! Your spine should be as straight as possible, without any noticeable curves in your shoulders or low back. The easiest way to check the straightness of your spine is to look in a full-length mirror. Your spine should create a straight line all the way from your neck to your tailbone. If you're arching your back, you will probably notice that your butt is sticking out a little. Don't forget your legs. Your legs are the foundation of your posture, so it's important that they are in the correct position when you are walking. Not only will the proper leg position make you appear more graceful, but it will also help prevent back pain. To achieve the ideal posture, the distance between your feet should be about the same as the width of your shoulders. You should also avoid locking your knees. Use your core. Your abdominal muscles are very important for maintaining good posture. Try to consciously draw your lower belly in while you walk. If your abdominal muscles are not very strong, a good exercise regimen can help you both strengthen your core and improve your posture. Practice. In order to perfect your walking posture, you will need to devote some time to practicing. If possible, videotape yourself while walking and then watch the footage carefully to look for ways in which your posture can be improved. You can also try practicing walking with great posture by balancing a book on your head. The more you do it, the easier and more natural it will become. Emulate others. In addition to being mindful of your own posture and poise, be mindful of the way others carry themselves. If you see someone who has a particularly graceful walk, make note of her posture and try to learn from it. Look straight ahead as your walk. You don't need to stare at everyone you pass by, but don't be afraid of making brief eye contact. Even if your posture is perfect, you will not look very graceful if your eyes are always looking at the floor. It might help you feel more comfortable if you imagine a straight line on the floor and focus your attention on a spot far in front of you. This will help you walk straighter, and it will make it appear as though you are looking straight ahead, without having to worry about direct eye contact. Watch your hands. Nothing will ruin your otherwise graceful walk more easily than fidgety hands. As you walk, hold your arms gently by your sides and allow them to move ever so slightly. Avoid crossing your arms, putting your hands in your pockets, or touching your hair and clothing with your hands. All of these actions will make you look anxious and uncomfortable. It's important to find a natural-looking arm position. Your arms should not be swinging wildly by your sides, nor should they be so rigid that you look like a robot. If you can't seem to hold your arms at your sides without looking too stiff, try holding a clutch. This will give your hands something productive to do so they don't fidget. Take your time walking. Sudden movements will make you appear jittery and uncertain of yourself, while calm, deliberate movements come across as graceful and confident. Be especially mindful of how fast you are walking if you feel anxious. It can be easy to pick up the pace without realizing it. The more deliberate you are with your movements, the more natural this kind of walk will become. While you want to move slowly, make sure your movements are not unnaturally slow. If you are walking in heels, it is even more important not to walk too quickly. You will probably find that your natural stride is slightly shorter when you are wearing heels, so walking quickly will look awkward. It will also make you more likely to lose your balance. Smile as you walk. There's no need to have an artificial grin on your face all the time, but it will help you appear more confident and graceful as you walk if you have a pleasant expression on your face. Make sure your shoes fit properly. If your shoes are too loose, it will be very hard to walk in them. If they are too tight, you will be in so much pain that your walk may look very awkward. Make sure to take some time to walk around in them at the store to make sure they really fit well and don't pinch your feet. If you find that your shoes are slightly too big, you can purchase inserts to add a little bit of cushion and prevent rubbing. Choose the right kind of heel. High heel shoes come in many different shapes and sizes. In order to walk gracefully in them, it's crucial to choose a pair that is right for you. Start off with a lower heel and gradually work your way up to a higher heel. Keep in mind that not everyone is capable of walking in super high heels. Typically people who have smaller feet need to wear shorter heels. Shoes with super narrow heels are much more difficult to walk in, so look for a slightly wider heel if you are not used to walking in heels. If your ankles tend to get wobbly when wearing heels, you may want to look for a pair that has ankle straps. Heels with pointy toes are usually less comfortable than other styles. Don't choose high platform heels unless you are experienced at walking in heels. Practice walking in your heels. Walking in heels is a little tricky, and you can easily come across looking clumsy and awkward if you are not used to walking in them. Before you go out in public in your heels, make sure you take some time to practice walking in them around the house. Keep these pointers in mind when walking in heels: Always put your heel down first when taking a step. Take smaller steps than you would if you were wearing flats. Watch out for soft or uneven surfaces that might catch your heel. Wear shoes you feel comfortable in. You can walk gracefully in almost any kind of shoe, so don't feel like you have to wear heels. If you prefer flats, just work on improving your posture and conveying confident body language, and you will look very graceful. You may want to avoid walking around in flip flops, as they make a lot of noise, are bad for your posture, and may cause you to trip, none of which is very graceful. | Keep your head up. Be mindful of your shoulders. Aim for a straight spine. Don't forget your legs. Use your core. Practice. Emulate others. Look straight ahead as your walk. Watch your hands. Take your time walking. Smile as you walk. Make sure your shoes fit properly. Choose the right kind of heel. Practice walking in your heels. Wear shoes you feel comfortable in. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Make-a-Soap-Carving | How to Make a Soap Carving | To make a soap carving, etch your design into the surface of the soap with a pencil, knife, or toothpick. Slice away the edges of the soap with a paring or carving knife down until you're left with the rough shape of your drawing. Use a pointed knife or other sharp, precise instrument to scrape out small details such as eyes or petals. When you're finished carving, wet your finger and rub it across the surface of the soap to give it a smooth finish. Remember to always use caution when you're working with sharp knives. | Choose a bar of soap. Any soap will do, but the harder the soap, the more difficult it will be to cut. On the other hand, if it is soft instead of firm, it will be more likely to crumble. Rectangular soap is easier to cut for beginners than round soap. The color you use is up to you and your project idea. Inexpensive ivory soap is good for practice. Get a knife. A carving or paring knife is perfect for whittling down the soap into a basic shape. Soap is often soft enough that kids can use butter knives, plastic knives, spoons, or popsicle sticks. For detail work, you may wish to get a finer knife such as a detailing knife or substitute in an orangewood stick or toothpick. Cover your work area. Spread newspaper out over the area where you'll do the carving. When you're finished, you'll be able to wrap up the newspaper to easily remove the soap fragments. Another option is to hold the soap over a bowl as you work. Decide on the subject. What you make out of the soap is only limited by your imagination. Experienced carvers make highly-detailed flowers and animals. For beginners, choose a block shape such as a turtle, fish, or heart. These patterns fit the shape of the soap bar and don't require much detail work. Scrape off the brand name. Your soap bar may have letters on one side of it. To get it off, place the soap under warm, running water. This makes the soap less firm so you can use a sponge or a knife to wear away the top layer. Rub off bits of soap until the surface is smooth. If you don't mind these letters showing a little on your design or on the back of your carving, you can skip this step. Draw an outline. You can use a pencil to make the outline or you can etch the outline into the soap using a knife, orangewood stick, or toothpick. This basic outline shows you what parts of the soap you need to remove. Slice away the outside portions. These cuts can be roughly done, but the soap may crumble if you try to go too fast. Slice off the edges of the soap, starting at one of the corners. Cut down to your line so that your soap forms the basic shape of your design. Try using the knife as you would when peeling a potato, keeping it between your finger and thumb and pulling it forward through the soap. Begin detail work. At this point, you may want to switch to a pointed knife, orange wood stick, plastic fork, toothpick, or other sharp, precise instrument. Work from the middle of the bar and drag the implement to scrape out small details such as eyes, scales, and petals. Polish the soap. Carefully use your fingers or a paper towel to remove any soap shavings left on the surface. Use as little pressure as possible. The soap will be fragile if you added a lot of details. Wet your finger and rub the surface to create a smoother finish. Let the soap dry for a day if you do this. Use scented soap. Once you obtain scented soap, you can add some flair. For pineapple-scented soap, cut the soap into the shape of a pineapple. This is a simple way to practice carving and the design shows exactly what kind of soap you have. Create layered flowers. Instead of cutting out a simple block shape, use detail work to create more elaborate designs. To achieve three-dimensional flower carvings, for example, use a sharp carving tool. Create the middle of the flower in the center of the soap and shave away excess soap as you move outwards and sculpt thin petals. Make a character profile. While you can opt to create the whole character out of soap, you can also emphasize the head and upper torso. Similar to the flower, you won't have to start by cutting away the soap. Instead, start in the center and create an outline. You can scrape away layers on the top surface outside the outline to make this profile picture stand out more. Etch details with a sharp tool. Since the face and upper body are enlarged, you have more of an opportunity to emphasize a character through precise details, such as lines for the hair, lips, and clothing. | Choose a bar of soap. Get a knife. Cover your work area. Decide on the subject. Scrape off the brand name. Draw an outline. Slice away the outside portions. Begin detail work. Polish the soap. Use scented soap. Create layered flowers. Make a character profile. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Get-Social-Security-Disability | How to Get Social Security Disability | If you qualify for Social Security disability and want to apply for it in person, call your local SSA office. Since most offices schedule far in advance, it is best to call as soon as possible. You should only need to bring a driver's license or another ID to this appointment. Once you're there, someone will help you fill out your application and tell you what to do next. | Know the basic requirements. In order to receive Social Security disability benefits as an adult, you must be 18 years of age or older, and permanently residing in an American state or territory. Figure out your work credits. Generally, to be eligible for benefits, you must have worked in the recent past and earned a certain amount. To determine whether people have worked enough to meet the requirements, the SSA requires people to earn a certain number of work credits. Work credits are essentially income that is assigned a value. In general, you must have accumulated 40 work credits (20 in the past 10 years) to be eligible for disability. In 2015, every $1,220 earned in wages or self-employment income counts as one credit, and you may accrue up to four credits per year. When you have earned $4,880 for the year, you have earned your four credits.SSA has some exceptions and different rules for younger workers. Click here for more information. Understand the exceptions if you're a younger worker. The SSA has some exceptions and different rules for younger workers. For example, if you become disabled before you turn 24, you will qualify for disability if you have 6 work credits earned in the past three years. If you are under 62, click here for work credit requirements. If you become disabled between the ages of 24 and 31, you will need to have credits for at least half the years between age 21 and when you become disabled. For example, if you become disabled at age 27, you will need credits for 3 years (27 - 21 = 6 and then 6 divided by 2 for half of the years). Know what SSA defines as disabled. In order for you to qualify as disabled, SSA runs your case through a 5-step checklist. Overall, the condition must be long-term (lasting more than 12 months or resulting in death), prevent you from doing the work you did before, and prevent you from adjusting to another form of work. Here are the specific questions SSA uses to evaluate your case: Are you working? If you are working in 2014 and making $1,070/month or more, you are not eligible. Is your condition severe? In order for a condition to be classified as severe, it must interfere with work-related activities. Is your condition on the list of disabling conditions? SSA keeps a list of disabling conditions that are considered severe enough to warrant a disability claim. If your condition is not on the list, SSA will evaluate whether its level of severity matches that of the listed conditions. This is done on a case-by-case basis, however, the condition must be permanent or expected to result in death, and must prevent you from working. Can you perform the work you did previously? In order to qualify as disabled, your condition must prevent you from doing your current job. Social Security will only pay benefits for people who are completely disabled, so if you are still able to work part-time at your current job, you cannot be paid disability. Can you do any other sort of work? If you can't maintain your current job, SSA will evaluate whether you can adjust to new work, accounting for factors such as medical conditions, age, education, past work experience and transferable skills. If you cannot adjust to a new job, you qualify as disabled. In order to receive disability benefits, you must not be able to work at all and if you want to qualify for benefits, you cannot make income from working. This includes doing freelance work or working occasionally. Check the SSA's list of Compassionate Allowances. For these conditions, disability benefits are approved as soon as a diagnosis is confirmed, with no waiting period for benefits. The illnesses on this list are generally terminal, and include conditions such as acute leukemia, Lou Gehrig's Disease (ALS), and inoperable cancers. Be aware of special situations. SSA will assess benefits differently for those who are visually impaired, disabled widows or widowers (cannot apply online), wounded warriors (go here ) and disabled children (see section below). For example, if you are blind, SSA does not require you to have as many work credits as they normally would (instead of 40, you must have 20 if you are over the age of 31). Prepare for the waiting period. Unless your condition is listed as a Compassionate Allowance, you'll probably have to wait five full calendar months to being receiving benefits. Most people see their first check come in at the beginning of the sixth month after the disability began. This waiting period is in place to insure that only applicants suffering from long-term disability, and not short-term or partial disability, receive benefits. If, after you apply for disability benefits but before you have been accepted, you are diagnosed with a condition that qualifies as a compassionate allowance condition, you should call your local Social Security office and inform them of the change. It is likely that you will have to provide documentation of your new condition and go into the office in order to change your application. Set up an appointment. Call your local Social Security Administration office , or call 800-772-1213 Monday through Friday, from 7 a.m. to 7 p.m. Eastern time, for a phone or office appointment. Call ahead. Most offices schedule disability appointments weeks or even months out, so call as soon as possible. If you are hearing impaired, call 800-325-0778. Go to your appointment. At your appointment, someone will help you fill out your application and tell you what the next steps for you are. You do not need to do anything to prepare for your appointment, but make sure that you bring your drivers license or another form of identification to the appointment. Start your claim immediately. The up-side to applying online versus on the phone or in person is that you can start your application process immediately, without waiting for an appointment. Click here to get started. Review the Adult Disability Checklist. This checklist lays out the things you'll need to submit a disability application. Print out the PDF version and check off items as you collect them. Collecting all the materials may take a few weeks, so start a folder or binder to store everything. In order to start your application, you'll need the following information: Basic information: name, date of birth, social security number, address, and all medication you are taking. You will also information on family members including: the social security numbers of everyone who lives in your household and proof of marriage if applicable. Gather information for the Adult Disability Application. In order to start your application, you'll need the following forms and information: Military service discharge (Form DD 214) for all periods of active duty. W-2 Forms (or IRS 1040 and Schedules C and SE, if self-employed) for the last year. The Social Security numbers of your spouse and minor children. Checking or savings account number and bank routing number, if you wish to receive benefits through direct deposit. Gather information for the Adult Disability Report. This is a compilation of your medical records that show your disability and allows the SSA to make a determination as to whether you are disabled under the guidelines. You may have to call the offices of your medical providers and request records. Be aware that some offices charge a small service fee for the labor and materials required to copy and send your records. You'll need the following information: The name, address and phone number of someone knowledgeable about your condition, whom SSA can contact regarding your claim. The doctor who made your diagnosis, oversees your treatment or first treated your injury could be a potential candidate for this, but may cost you a small fee. The names, addresses, phone numbers, patient ID numbers and dates of treatment for all doctors, hospitals and clinics. You may want to obtain and refer to your medical records for this information, so that it's as correct as possible. The names of medications you're taking, as well as the dosage and who prescribed them. You can obtain this information using the pharmacy label on your medicine bottles. If you're currently off a medication that's relevant to your claim, contact your doctor's office for a record of the prescription. The names and dates of medical tests and who sent you for them. If you already have copies of lab results, add them to your folder; if not, request copies from your doctor's office. Information on your last 5 jobs, including type of job and dates worked. Refer to prior W-2 forms for greatest accuracy. Information regarding any worker's compensation claims or insurance claims you've filed. Have the claim number, and the name, address and phone number of the insurance company. Gather documents that SSA may request later. As your application goes on, SSA may request copies of your birth certificate, or citizenship and naturalization papers. You might also need to provide educational transcripts and proof of a high school diploma or college degree. Fill out the Online Disability Benefit Application. You can start the application here. The process should take between 10 and 30 minutes, but don't worry, you can sign out of the application and return to it later. You'll need to: Sign the application. Once you've answered all the questions, you'll be asked to verify the validity of your information under penalty of perjury. Sign electronically when you are sure everything is correct. Note that if you're helping someone else fill out a disability application, only the person applying for benefits can sign. Prepare the documents. At the end of the application, a list of documents you need to provide to SSA will appear, as well as how to submit them. Generally, you can mail in the documents or physically take them to an SSA office; SSA will return all documents or copies unless otherwise indicated. Provide your Social Security number. On a separate piece of blank paper, write down your Social Security number in large print and enclose it with your other documents. Do not alter your documents to include your Social Security number. Do not mail certain documents. If you're asked to provide a foreign birth certificate, or documents issued by the Immigration and Naturalization Service or the Department of Homeland Security, do not put these documents in the mail. They can be costly to replace, if they're replaceable at all. If you're required to submit these documents, take them to your nearest SSA office and do not lose sight of them. Fill out the Adult Online Disability Report. The report can be located here and will go into more detail about the specifics of your condition. It has 7 sections: Overview, Identification, Medical, Work/Education, Remarks, Review and Submit. You don't have to complete the report in one sitting. If you wish to take a break, sign off and you'll be provided with a re-entry number. Write it down and use it to log back in to your saved report. Use the Remarks section. This allows you to include additional information about your condition. If the online form doesn't provide enough room, write or type your remarks on a separate sheet of paper and mail it to the SSA address provided. Save the receipt. After you submit the application, you'll receive a receipt that includes a copy of the entire report. Print it and save it for your records. Be aware of the time limit. A page will expire if you're on it for more than 25 minutes. Be sure to save your work and avoid being automatically logged out, or your work will be lost. (You must have JavaScript enabled to receive the notification that your page has been inactive for 25 minutes.) Complete the Authorization to Disclose Information to the Social Security Administration. To process your application, SSA will ask you to sign a form allowing them to discuss your information with other parties in order to assess the validity of your claims, as well as your ability to manage benefits. Signing is voluntary, but failing to do so could prevent timely processing and result in denied or lost benefits. You can find the form here. Print it out, and mail or take it to your local SSA office when it's completed. You'll specifically need to know: a few guidelines for completing the form: Fill it out and sign in blue or black ink only, before a witness. The form will be valid for 12 months from the signing date. what information will be shared and what won't: Signing the form authorizes SSA to contact your friends, your family, employers and public officials regarding your condition, as well as the people involved in your medical care, education, and social services. The form authorizes SSA to re-disclose information about your case to third parties without prior written consent, except information regarding alcohol/drug abuse, mental health, developmental disability, HIV/AIDS, and educational records for a minor. Wait for a response. SSA will respond to you by mail if your application is approved. You'll be told how much money to expect and when payments will start. If you move during the application process, be sure to notify SSA of your new address. Appeal. If you're unhappy with the SSA decision regarding your application, you can appeal within 60 days of the date that you received the Notice of Decision. (SSA calculates the date of receipt as 5 days after the date of the letter, unless you can prove otherwise.) Submit your request for appeal in writing to the address indicated on your Notice of Decision. Appeal online. If your application was denied for medical reasons, you can appeal online. Just make sure you have your Notice of Decision on-hand before you start. Click here to begin. Know the levels of appeal. Appeals to SSA for disability benefits can potentially go through 4 levels. They are: reconsideration by someone not involved in your first application, a hearing by an administrative law judge, a review by the Appeals Council, and a Federal Court review. If you lose your appeal, you cannot reapply for disability benefits unless your condition changes and becomes more severe or you are diagnosed with a new condition that renders you disabled. If this situation applies to you, you may reapply for disability 60 days after your denial (either the original denial if you do not appeal the decision or the loss of the appeal if you appeal). Know the process. Applying for Social Security benefits for a disabled child requires two submissions: an application for Supplemental Security Income (SSI) and a Child Disability Report. Only the Child Disability Report can be completed online. See a fact sheet regarding Child Disability Benefits here. A list of approved child disabilities is available here. The decision will take 3 to 5 months after you submit the application. Gather the information on the Child Disability Checklist. A checklist can be found here and lists the information you'll need to submit a child disability claim. Print off the list and check items off as you collect them. Collecting all the materials may take a few weeks, so start a folder or binder to store everything. Know what the checklist requires. You'll need to have information regarding medical care, education, social services, child care, the child's employers, birth certificate, proof of the family's current income and resources, and the names and Social Security numbers of all adults and children currently living in the household. Contact Social Security. Before you go through the work of filling out the Child Disability Report, find out whether the income and resources of the family are within the established limits. If they are, SSA will help you begin the SSI process and set up an interview. Find your local office here. Complete the Medical and School Worksheet. Click here and print out the worksheet. Fill it out as completely as you can, and set it aside for use at your SSI interview and to help you complete the Child Disability Report online. Complete the Child Disability Report. This form will detail your child's medical condition and subsequent disabilities. You can print out the PDF version here , or complete it online here. There are 10 sections: Information About the Child, Contact Information, Medical Conditions and How They Affect the Child, Medical Records, Medications, Tests, Additional Information, Education, Work History and Remarks. Use the Remarks section. The Remarks section is meant for you to provide any additional, pertinent information about the disability not covered in the previous sections of the report. Attend the interview. Take all the information you gathered for the Child Disability Checklist, as well as the Medical and School Worksheet and the Child Disability Report (if you did not submit online) with you. Additionally, you should bring a photo ID for identification purposes and the child's birth certificate. If you can, have everything neatly organized in a folder or binder for easy access during the interview. Be prepared. At the interview, you'll need to discuss: The child's medical condition, medical treatment sources and dates (including the names and addresses of doctors and hospitals), medications that the child is currently taking, and any testing the child has had. The interview will last about an hour, and the SSA employee will go through your application with you, and may discuss the condition with your and the child. Apply for the Canadian Pension Plan. The Canadian Pension Plan (CPP) provides disability benefits to adults who contributed to the CPP while they worked, as well as children who have one parent on CPP disability. Click here for more information. The Child Disability Benefit (CDB) is available to families caring for a disabled child under the age of 18; find out more here. Apply for Disability Living Allowance in the United Kingdom. Disabled adults under the age of 65 and disabled children in the UK have access to a Disability Living Allowance (DLA). Click here to start the process. Apply for a Disability Support Pension in Australia. Australian citizens over 16 years of age who are permanently blind or unable to work for 2 years or more can apply for a Disability Support Pension. Click here for more information. Someone caring for a disabled child under 16 years of age is eligible for a Carer Allowance; go here to find out more. | Know the basic requirements. Figure out your work credits. Understand the exceptions if you're a younger worker. Know what SSA defines as disabled. Check the SSA's list of Compassionate Allowances. Be aware of special situations. Prepare for the waiting period. Set up an appointment. Go to your appointment. Start your claim immediately. Review the Adult Disability Checklist. Gather information for the Adult Disability Application. Gather information for the Adult Disability Report. Gather documents that SSA may request later. Fill out the Online Disability Benefit Application. Fill out the Adult Online Disability Report. Complete the Authorization to Disclose Information to the Social Security Administration. Wait for a response. Appeal. Know the process. Gather the information on the Child Disability Checklist. Contact Social Security. Complete the Medical and School Worksheet. Complete the Child Disability Report. Attend the interview. Be prepared. Apply for the Canadian Pension Plan. Apply for Disability Living Allowance in the United Kingdom. Apply for a Disability Support Pension in Australia. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Read-a-Hydrometer | How to Read a Hydrometer | To read a hydrometer, pour a sample of the liquid you want to test into a clean, transparent container. Lower the hydrometer into the liquid and stir it around gently, but make sure it doesn't touch the sides of the container. Read the hydrometer scale at the lowest point of the surface of the liquid. The most common scale on hydrometers is specific gravity, in which pure water measures 1.000. If you get a higher reading, your liquid is heavier than water, and if you get a lower reading, it's lighter. | Check your hydrometer's temperature calibration. Hydrometers measure the density of a liquid, but liquids expand and contract with temperature changes. In order to get an accurate answer, you need to test liquids at the temperature your hydrometer was designed for. This temperature should be listed on the hydrometer label, or on instructions in the same package. Most homebrew hydrometers are calibrated at 59–60°F (15–15.6°C ), and most laboratory hydrometers are calibrated at 68°F (20.0°C). Hydrometers can lose accuracy over time. If you're using an old tool, you may want to test it first. Measure the temperature of the liquid. If this is more than a degree or two off from the hydrometer's intended temperature, write down the result. Your measurement will be off, but you can correct it using the temperature chart at the end of this article. If testing homebrewed wort, do not contaminate it with a non-sanitized thermometer. Use an adhesive strip thermometer that sticks to the side of the container, or measure a sample instead of the main batch. Pour a sample into a clean container. Choose a transparent jar or cup large enough that the hydrometer can float without hitting the sides or bottom of the container. Transfer a sample of the liquid into this container. When brewing, test the wort after visible signs of fermentation have ended, but before pitching the yeast. Transfer the sample using a sanitized siphon, wine thief, or baster. If precision is extremely important, rinse the container with a small amount of the liquid before adding the full sample. Insert the hydrometer into the liquid. Make sure the hydrometer is dry, then lower it into the liquid just below the point at which it would float naturally. Be sure the hydrometer bulb does not touch the sides or bottom of the jar when it settles. Spin the hydrometer gently. This will dislodge air bubbles clinging to the tool, which would disrupt the measurement. Wait for the hydrometer and the liquid to stop moving, and for bubbles to dissipate. Read the hydrometer scale at the lowest point of the liquid's surface. The surface of the fluid may cling to the hydrometer and the container walls, forming a curve called a meniscus. Look for the scale mark on the hydrometer level with the lowest point on the fluid's surface. Do not use the mark where the fluid touches the hydrometer. Understand the measurement. The most common scale on hydrometers is "specific gravity." This is the ratio of the liquid's density to the density of water. Pure water should give a reading of 1.000. A higher reading means the liquid is denser (heavier) than water, and a lower reading means it is lighter. The specific gravity of wort (called original gravity or OG by brewers) varies greatly. The more sugar in a wort, the higher the OG, and the higher alcohol content in the final beer. Most beers OGs fall in the 1.030 to 1.070 range, but they can be significantly higher. Interpret the Plato, Balling, or Brix scales. Your hydrometer may use one of these scales instead, or you may need to convert your measurement to follow a certain recipe. Here's how to measure density using these three units: The Plato scale measures the percentage of sucrose in a wort, so 10 degrees on the Plato scale means 10% of the wort is sucrose by weight. Multiply the Plato measurement by 0.004 and add 1 for a specific gravity estimate that's close enough for homebrewing purposes. For example, a 10 degrees Plato wort has a specific gravity of 10 x.004 + 1 = 1.040. (The further you get from this number, the less accurate the conversion is. ) The Balling and Brix scales measure the sugar concentration in a solution, but the units are close enough to the Plato scale that you can use them interchangeably for home brewing. Commercial breweries use more exact conversion formulas, and conduct their own tests to calibrate the Brix scale based on various factors. Take a reading of the final brew. At the end of the entire brewing process, test additional samples daily with the hydrometer. If the reading is the same two days in a row, no more sugars are being converted into alcohol, meaning fermentation is complete. The final reading at this point is the "final gravity" or "FG." The target FG depends on what kind of brew you are making, and in some cases on additional ingredients that affect the hydrometer reading. With a few exceptions, most beers have an FG around 1.007 to 1.015. Home brewers rarely get the exact FG predicted by their recipe, especially on their first few attempts. It's more important that the beer tastes good, but keep records and keep studying the process to get a more consistent result. Estimate alcohol by volume. The difference between the original gravity and final gravity tells you how much sugar was converted to alcohol. The formula 132.715 x (OG - FG) is a useful way to convert this into alcohol by volume (ABV). Note that this is only an estimate, and is most accurate for beers with a final gravity around 1.010. For example, if your OG was 1.041 and your FG is 1.011, the ABV is roughly 132.715 x (1.041 - 1.011) = 3.98%. Fill a container with water. To test whether the hydrometer is accurate, use distilled water or reverse osmosis water. If you use tap water or untreated bottled water in your brewing, you can test with that instead. The mineral content will alter the results, but this will tell you how to adjust your readings for brews made with that specific water. Bring the water to the correct temperature. The hydrometer's calibrated temperature should be marked on the hydrometer label or the package instructions. Measure the density of the water. Place the hydrometer in the water, spin gently to shake off air bubbles, and wait for it to settle. The hydrometer will read 1.000 for pure water if it is perfectly calibrated. A hydrometer that uses the Plato or Balling scale will read 0.00º. See the instructions above for a more detailed guide on how to use the hydrometer. Write down the correction if the hydrometer is inaccurate. If you get a result other than 1.000, the hydrometer is off (or your water contains minerals). Write down the amount you need to add or subtract to future readings to correct this error. For example, if your hydrometer reads 0.999 in pure water, add 0.001 to all measurements. To take another example, if your hydrometer reads 1.003 in tap water, subtract 0.003 from all measurements of liquid brewed with that specific tap water. Test the hydrometer again if you change water sources. Consider replacing or adjusting your hydrometer. If your hydrometer is significantly off, it's often best to order a new one. The old one may lose even more accuracy over time, but it is possible for the frugal brewer to correct it: If the measurement is too low, attach tape, nail polish, or any other material to increase the weight until the measurement is correct. If the measurement is too high, file the edge to remove material. Seal the rough area with nail polish to protect against glass dust or sharp edges. | Check your hydrometer's temperature calibration. Measure the temperature of the liquid. Pour a sample into a clean container. Insert the hydrometer into the liquid. Spin the hydrometer gently. Read the hydrometer scale at the lowest point of the liquid's surface. Understand the measurement. Interpret the Plato, Balling, or Brix scales. Take a reading of the final brew. Estimate alcohol by volume. Fill a container with water. Bring the water to the correct temperature. Measure the density of the water. Write down the correction if the hydrometer is inaccurate. Consider replacing or adjusting your hydrometer. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Make-Blue-Eyes-Pop | How to Make Blue Eyes Pop | If you want to make your blue eyes pop, try using makeup and clothes in colors that complement your eyes. Apply a light concealer under your eyes, which will conceal any dark rings that can distract from them. When you apply eye shadow, opt for a warm tone like beige or light gold to make your eyes stand out. Then, dot a little light-colored eye liner in both corners of your eye to make it look bigger and brighter. Besides your makeup, choose clothes in a different tone of blue to make your eyes stand out, like baby blue for blue-grey eyes. Additionally, bring out the contrast in your eyes with warm-toned accessories, like orange or rust colored scarves or hair clips. | Apply concealer under your eyes. Blue eyes can easily get lost in dark undereye circles, and this is especially noticeable with a natural look. Apply concealer around and under your eyes to put the focus on them, not your circles! Try using a salmon-colored concealer to hide the bluish tones in your skin. If you only need light coverage, dot the concealer along your undereye, then blend with your fingers or a makeup sponge. If you have very dark circles, apply a layer of concealer in an inverted triangle shape under your eye. The point of the triangle should be about level with the apples of your cheeks. Blend it with your fingers or a makeup sponge. It should blend into your face makeup and up to the corners of your eye. Put on beige or light gold eyeshadow. Colors with warm tones complement blue eyes. For a natural look, pick a beige, light gold, or a similar light neutral eyeshadow. Blend it in lightly over your eyelid with an eyeshadow brush. You want enough to contrast with your eyes, but not enough to look obvious from a distance. Use light-colored eyeliner. Pick a light eyeliner in white, beige, light gold, or a similar light neutral color. The light color will help your eyes look bigger without looking like you're wearing heavy makeup. You can use liquid, pencil, or gel eyeliner, but pencil is best for a more natural look. Line your eyes lightly on both the top and bottom lids. Highlight both corners of your eyes. Adding a little shimmer to both corners of your eyes will make them look bigger and highlight their beautiful color. You can use pencil eyeliner, liquid or powder eyeshadow, or highlighter, as long as it's a very light, shimmery color. Dab the color gently on each inner corner, then blend with your fingers or a small makeup brush. If your eyes are gray-blue, try a color with pink tones. Bright, dark, or purple blues will really pop with a gold or copper-toned highlighter. If you are going for something very natural, try white or ivory for light skin, and rose gold for darker skin. Use a very small amount and blend it thoroughly. Curl your eyelashes. Curling your eyelashes will make your eyes appear bigger and more open. Line up your upper lashes with your eyelash curler, then hold it closed for 10-15 seconds. Don't put on mascara before you curl! The mascara can stick to the curler and pull lashes out, or even break them. Use black or brown mascara. Black or brown mascara can help make the blue in your eyes pop, especially if you have dark hair. Use one or two layers on your upper lashes, and one on your lower lashes. Choose warm-toned or purple eyeshadow. For blue eyes, anything with warm tones will look great! You don't have to wear bright colors--browns, golds, coppers, and bronzes are also warm tones. Warm hues of purple, like eggplant and plum, are also very flattering for blue eyes because their reddish tones bring out blues. If you have dark blue eyes, try a bright metallic color. Pink-toned purples and golds look great on gray-blue eyes. Avoid blue or blue-toned shadows like turquoise, indigo, and periwinkle--they can make your eyes look washed-out! Gray eyeshadow can also make your blue eyes pop. Apply the shadow to your eyelid. Use an eyeshadow brush to apply the shadow across your entire eyelid. If you want a more dramatic, bolder look, layer it on or even try blending two or more colors in the same family. Add a shimmery shadow to your eyelid crease and both corners. Choose a shimmery shadow and brush it onto your eyelid creases and both inner corners of your eye. You can choose any shimmery color you want, but warm metallics will look great with blue eyes. Try a bold eyeliner. A bold eyeliner will bring out your blue eyes. You can try a gold eyeliner, black eyeliner, or dark purple eyeliner. Liquid eyeliner is best for a bold look, but you can also use pencil or gel liner. Gently and carefully line along your upper and lower eyelids. If you have trouble with liquid eyeliner, try dotting it along your eyelids, then connecting the dots. Layer your mascara. Brown mascara will look great with blue eyes, but black or even blue mascara will make them pop too! When you put mascara on, try putting on two or three layers on your top lashes and one or two on your bottom lashes to really emphasize your eyes. The best way to put on multiple layers is to wait a few seconds between each layer. If your mascara gets clumpy, gently pinch the clump with your fingers and pull it out You can also use false eyelashes for an even more dramatic look. Put on bright lipstick. A bold lipstick in a warm color will provide a startling contrast with your blue eyes. A classic red is a great choice, but any warm-toned red, pink, orange, or brown will look great. Avoid cool-toned lipsticks like blue, purple, and black--these can wash out your eyes. Choose blue shades that complement your eye color. A blue outfit can draw attention to your eyes, but the wrong shade of blue for your eye color can wash them out. A good rule of thumb is to avoid dull blues, neon blues, and blues that match the exact color of your eyes. If you have green-blue eyes, avoid turquoise or aqua blues--they'll overwhelm your eyes. Try purple blues. If your eyes are gray-blue, try a baby blue. Bright blue eyes will look amazing in a royal blue outfit. Navy blue looks good with any color blue eyes. Avoid warm-toned clothes. If you have blue eyes, you most likely have a cool-toned complexion. Warm-toned clothing can clash with cool-toned skin. Avoid oranges, reds, and yellows so you don't distract from your eyes. Use gold, brown, or copper accessories. Jewelry, hair clips, hats, and scarves in browns, oranges, and warm metallics will draw attention to your blue eyes--especially if they're near your face! They're a great option if you'd rather not wear an entire orange-toned outfit. If you wear glasses, consider getting gold or tortoiseshell frames to bring out the blue in your eyes. Try a gold hair clip near your face to bring out your eyes. An orange or rust-colored scarf will draw attention to your eyes. Add small pops of blue to your outfit. Adding touches of blue to your outfit will draw even more attention to your eyes. Try wearing blue jewelry, shoes, or bags. You can also pick clothes that have blue patterns or stripes. Turquoise jewelry is a great way to bring in a little blue. Try wearing all black. An all-black outfit can give you a dramatic flair that draws attention to the only spot of color on you--your beautiful blue eyes! This look works especially well with bold, dramatic eye makeup. This look is best for those with light, bright, green, or purple-blue eyes. Gray and dark blue eyes can be lost in all black. If you don't want to wear an all-black outfit, try wearing a black hat or scarf to frame your face. Get bangs to draw attention to your eyes. A great way to draw attention to your eyes is to cut your hair into bangs--people will follow your hair right to your eyes. Cutting them level with your brow line will give your eyes enough space and will keep your hair framing them. Be sure to get your bangs regularly trimmed. Nobody will notice your blue eyes if your hair's in the way! Try a short haircut to emphasize your eyes. A short, dramatic hairstyle like a pixie cut or a bob will draw attention to your face and put more emphasis on your eyes. Talk to your stylist about what short haircut will look best on you. Layer your hair around your face. If you'd rather keep your hair long, consider cutting it in layers around your face. This will draw attention to your eyes by visually leading people to your face. Part your hair to the side. You don't have to cut your hair to bring out your blue eyes. Parting your hair far to one side will create a line from the top of your head all the way down the side of your face. This will draw people towards your eyes! Pick a complementary hair color. You have lots of hair color options for blue eyes. If you want to go for a more natural look, anything with warm tones will emphasize blue eyes. Reds, auburns, blondes, and chestnut browns all set off blue eyes dramatically. Black hair is a great choice for cooler skin tones. If you want a non-natural color, avoid blues and greens. Your eyes can get lost in them. Try pinks, purples, or rose gold instead. | Apply concealer under your eyes. Put on beige or light gold eyeshadow. Use light-colored eyeliner. Highlight both corners of your eyes. Curl your eyelashes. Use black or brown mascara. Choose warm-toned or purple eyeshadow. Apply the shadow to your eyelid. Add a shimmery shadow to your eyelid crease and both corners. Try a bold eyeliner. Layer your mascara. Put on bright lipstick. Choose blue shades that complement your eye color. Avoid warm-toned clothes. Use gold, brown, or copper accessories. Add small pops of blue to your outfit. Try wearing all black. Get bangs to draw attention to your eyes. Try a short haircut to emphasize your eyes. Layer your hair around your face. Part your hair to the side. Pick a complementary hair color. |
https://www.wikihow.legal/Become-a-Legal-Guardian | How to Become a Legal Guardian | To become a legal guardian, you'll need to have experience providing care and managing property and resources. You'll also need to have a clear criminal record, as well as no conflicts of interest with the person you want to be the guardian of. Also, verify that the person is eligible for guardianship. Generally, children under 18 years of age can have a non-parent guardian, and adults who have been proven to be legally incapacitated are also eligible. | Decide whether becoming a legal guardian is right for your situation. Guardians are court-supervised caretakers for minors and incapacitated persons. Guardians are responsible for the well-being of their wards (the person for whom they are the guardian), and may also be responsible for handling the person's assets and finances. The guardian must periodically report to the court on the ward's status. Make sure that you are prepared to accept the responsibility of acting as a legal guardian. In some states, guardianships are called conservatorships. In California, for example, guardianships are for children, and conservatorships are for incapacitated adults. Consider alternatives to becoming a legal guardian. There may be other avenues to protect the child's or adult's well-being short of a legal guardianship. Some alternatives include a power of attorney, living will, health care proxy, and/or a representative payee arrangement. You may also be able to file for a temporary guardianship, which is a faster process for emergency cases, and ends when the court appoints a permanent guardian. Verify that your prospective ward is eligible for a guardianship. The eligibility standards for guardianships differ between children and adults. Procedures differ by state, but courts will appoint an attorney to investigate and represent the interests of the proposed ward. A child can have a non-parent guardian as long as the child is under 18 years of age and has not been emancipated by a court order. An adult is not eligible for a guardianship unless the court finds evidence that the adult is legally incapacitated, either by age or disability. Incapacity must be proven by clear and convincing evidence that the person cannot provide his or her own food, clothing, or shelter, manage physical health or financial affairs. Courts typically require a statement from a doctor regarding the ward's incapacity. Verify that you are eligible to become a guardian. To become a guardian, you must demonstrate to the court that your are capable of accepting the responsibility of a guardianship. You do not need to be a relative of the ward. You may be found to be ineligible if you: Have a history of bad conduct, like a criminal record for violence or dishonesty; Have conflicts of interest with the ward, such as owing an outstanding debt to the ward or standing to benefit from taking advantage of the ward; Are inexperienced with providing care or managing property and resources; Lack sufficient education to provide care or manage property and resources; or Are a minor or incapacitated person yourself. If two or more eligible people both wish to become the guardian, the court will have to choose one over the other. In Texas, if more than one person seeks a guardianship, the court will consider whether the proposed ward designated someone to serve as guardian prior to his or her incapacity. The court will then give priority in to proposed guardians in the following order: anyone designated by the last surviving parent of the ward, the ward's spouse, the ward's next of kin, and non-relatives. Differentiate between guardianship of the person versus guardianship of the estate. Your state may require you to submit different forms depending on whether you wish to become the guardian of the person or the estate, or both. Guardianship of the person means that you are responsible for the well-being of the ward, from personal care and maintenance to medical decisions. If the ward is a child, you will be responsible for their living conditions, schooling, medical needs, and any harm the ward causes. Guardianship of the estate means that you are tasked with managing, investing, protecting, and disposing of the ward's assets and property in accordance with the law and the ward's best interests. Consider hiring an attorney to represent you. Having someone declared legally incapacitated can be a challenging process. The process can be further complicated if the ward has substantial property or assets to manage, or if the ward is a Native American (which may raise issues of federal law). It may be more time and cost-effective to have an attorney handle your case. You can get referrals from friends and family, or from attorneys who may not handle guardianships but know a trusted colleague who does. You can also use referral services through your state and local bar associations, or just search online. Some courts with particularly complicated guardianship processes may not hear guardianship applications filed by non-lawyers. Verify your court's rules before you begin. If you cannot afford to hire an attorney, other options are available. Your community may have legal aid organizations or aid centers affiliated with a local law school. These organizations provide free or low-cost legal services to the community. You can find these organizations by searching online or contacting the court. Fill out the necessary forms and documents. If becoming someone's legal guardian is the right choice for you, you should start the process by obtaining and filling out the required forms. You can usually find all the required forms online by going to your state's judicial branch website. If you cannot find the required documents online, go to the courthouse and ask a clerk for the necessary forms. Some of the forms you will need to fill out include: A petition for the appointment of a guardian. This document asks for general information , including your name, address, and the proposed ward's name. It will also ask you to explain why the ward needs a guardian and what powers you should be granted over the ward. A notice of hearing. This is the document you will give to all interested parties, such as parents and other relatives, and your county's and state's social services departments. The notice states what the petition is about and when the hearing will take place. A duties of the guardian form. This document lays out all of the duties you will be required to fulfill as a guardian. You must sign this document and file it with the rest of your forms. File all the required documentation with the clerk of courts. Once you have filled out all the required documents, you will take them to your courthouse and file them with the clerk of courts. You may have to pay a fee for filing unless you obtain a fee waiver because you are unable to pay. In California, the fee to file a petition to appoint a probate conservator is $435, but there is no fee to file for guardianship of a child in New York's family court system. After you file your forms, the clerk will give you a hearing date. Give notice of the hearing to all interested parties. After filing your petition, you will have to give notice to interested parties, including relatives of the ward and state and county agencies. In order to give the interested parties proper notice, you must follow the directions laid out by the laws of your state, so be sure to carefully review those requirements. In California, for example, you can serve all interested parties by mail in cases of conservatorships for adults, but are required to serve some parties personally in cases of guardianships of children. Personal service means that a copy of the notice is personally delivered to the person being served. You cannot be the one to serve an interested person; you must have a process server or someone over the age of 18 mail or deliver the notice and sign the attached "proof of service." Gather your documents. Be sure you bring all of your documents with you to the hearing, including proofs of service verifying that you gave notice to all interested parties. Organize your paperwork and evidence so that you can quickly find it and present it to the court if asked to do so. Prepare to present evidence that the person needs a guardian. You should develop a short story telling the judge why the allegedly incapacitated person is in need of a guardian. Describe the person's daily routine, what services the person uses or needs, and why he or she is no longer able to manage personal needs and/or property. Bring witnesses. The judge may permit or ask you to have friends and family members testify regarding your ability to be a guardian. Consider calling on family members, neighbors, and people who currently care for the person. Ask them to attend the hearing with you and speak on your behalf. Answer questions from the judge about why you should be the guardian. Explain what you are going to do to care for the ward, the support system you have in place to help you provide that care (other helpful people in your life), and how you are financially stable enough to provide care for another person. Listen and respond to any objections to your petition. Other interested parties may attend the hearing, and may challenge your request to be a guardian. Guardianship cases can be contentious, especially if an interested party fears that you are trying to take their loved one away or gain control of the ward's assets. Judges have commented that a ward is lucky to have people who care strongly about his or her best interests, even if those people disagree. Be respectful of those who challenge your request, and address your rebuttal to the judge, not to the challenger. Get an order from the judge. After your hearing, your judge will make a decision as to whether you will be named the guardian over the person. For guardianships of children, if the child's parents agree with the guardianship, the judge will typically allow it if it is appropriate or necessary. If one or both of the parents object, the judge will grant your guardianship only if staying with the parent(s) will be detrimental to the child and the guardianship will be in the best interest of the child. If the court denies your petition, you may be able to try again or file an appeal. File your court order with the clerk of courts. If your judge allows you to be the guardian of the ward, you will be given a court order. File that order with the clerk of courts. Typically, you will take your order to the clerk's window where you filed your paperwork initially and ask the clerk to file your order. Report the status of your guardianship to the court as required. The court will schedule review hearings, at which you will be required to update the court on the status of your ward. Plan to answer questions about the ward's health, medical care, education, and the management of the ward's assets. You can also raise any new issues that arise with the judge, and request additional authority to make decisions for the ward. Review hearings may happen every few months at first, but once the judge is satisfied that the guardianship arrangement is working, reviews will become annual, or even less frequent. | Decide whether becoming a legal guardian is right for your situation. Verify that your prospective ward is eligible for a guardianship. Verify that you are eligible to become a guardian. Differentiate between guardianship of the person versus guardianship of the estate. Consider hiring an attorney to represent you. Fill out the necessary forms and documents. File all the required documentation with the clerk of courts. Give notice of the hearing to all interested parties. Gather your documents. Prepare to present evidence that the person needs a guardian. Bring witnesses. Answer questions from the judge about why you should be the guardian. Listen and respond to any objections to your petition. Get an order from the judge. File your court order with the clerk of courts. Report the status of your guardianship to the court as required. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Write-Non-Fiction | How to Write Non Fiction | To write nonfiction, choose a topic that's significant to you, then write a personal essay connecting it to one of your memories. For example, begin an essay about death by describing an experience of losing a loved one, then expand from there. A nonfiction book, unlike a personal essay, simply has to focus on a specific topic you're interested in. Think of each chapter like a story, the people like “characters,” and the events like the “plot.” Even though you're describing true events, the book will be more interesting if it's written in an engaging style. | Brainstorm ideas for your essay. Unlike writing a memoir about a specific time and place in your life, an essay is not restricted by any limiting factors. An essay works best when it is somewhat specific, but it can ultimately be about anything you want. There are some general guidelines that can help strengthen your essay, though, and as you brainstorm ideas you may want to think about the elements of a strong essay. Think about things that you care about or are passionate about. Make a list of 10 subjects, then decide which subject you will have the most to say about (and/or the subject with which you have the most personal experience). Don't resist a topic because it will be difficult or require research. If you're passionate about that subject and you think you have a lot to say about it, then go for it. Be flexible. You may decide to change your mind, or you may find that some items on your list relate to one another (and could potentially be woven together). Narrow down your topic. Once you have a general subject that you're interested in, you'll need to narrow it down to its core elements. In other words, you can't write an essay about a broad concept you're curious about or interested in; you'll need to work out the nuts and bolts of what that topic means to you. Think about why you're interested in that topic, how it relates to your life, and what your authority is on that subject (you don't need to be a scholar, but you should have enough personal experience to talk confidently about that subject). Since you're writing a personal essay, it's important that the topic you choose has some direct, personal significance in your life. Be as specific as possible when choosing your topic. Narrow it down to a memory, an occasion, etc. For example, instead of writing about loss, you might choose to write about a specific kind of loss (like death), then choose one specific event (like the death of a parent or friend) as your starting point. The various elements of your essay should all be related somehow, and you'll need to make that relationship clear to the reader to avoid confusion. You can always expand your topic to include other related concepts/events, or to become a larger meditation on the larger subject that your event touches on, but it's best to begin with one single topic idea and go from there. Try writing in different forms. There are many different ways to construct a personal essay. No form is necessarily right or wrong; it's largely a matter of personal aesthetics and preference. Read a variety of forms to get inspired. Then, try out a few different forms and see what fits your essay the best. One common form for writing personal essays is to begin with a very specific image, instant, or memory (zoomed in, to put it in film terms) and gradually expand outward to address the larger subject. Another common form employs the exact opposite: starting very broad, then zooming in on the specific memory, event, etc. This can be a bit tricky, though, as a broad topic can easily lose the interest of your readers early on in the essay. One form that's been gaining popularity over the last few years is the lyric or hybrid essay. This combines poetry and essay elements, essentially creating a long-form nonfiction poem. Try writing your essay in one form, and if it doesn't feel right you can experiment with a different form. Incorporate sensory details. Sensory details are the bread and butter of any narrative piece of writing. Just because you're writing a nonfiction essay or book, it doesn't mean you can't get creative. Think about how your favorite fiction authors portray a scene and try to apply those same skills to nonfiction. Try to incorporate all five senses. You won't be able to make the reader see, hear, smell, taste, or touch the things you have, but if you craft your piece of writing skillfully, the reader should feel like he/she has experienced them first hand. Build your images in a linear, narrative way. In other words, don't fill every tangent with long-winded descriptive passages - save that for the main "story" thread of your book or essay. Make sure your details are relevant. If you're just throwing in details to make the essay or book "pretty," it's probably just a distraction. Write your first draft. As you compose your first draft, be aware of the voice and tone that your essay takes. The voice should be your natural voice - in other words, don't try to imitate another author. The tone should reflect the content of the essay. So, for example, in an essay about death and grieving, you don't want to write in a happy, bubbly tone. Don't worry about typos (unless they'll be impossible to decipher) while you write your first draft. You can fix these minor errors in the editing and revision stage. Make sure you're using visceral details - what many writing teachers refer to as showing, not telling. For example, instead of saying outright that you were frustrated, describe the way you narrowed your eyes and furrowed your brow at someone. Think about whether the form you're using is working for the essay at hand. If it's not working, try something different, as the overall form will be more difficult to work with during revision. Consider whether or not you adequately address every aspect of your subject. As you complete your first draft, you should also think about whether or not you've left anything unresolved and make any necessary corrections. Decide on your subject matter. Unlike an essay, which can either stick to one single topic or expand into other related topics, a nonfiction book should be focused on one specific subject. That subject may be some particular aspect of your life (with a specific time and place), or it may be about other people/places that interest you. It doesn't necessarily have to be your story like a personal essay. It's up to you to decide what subject matter you find most meaningful, and find interesting ways to talk about that subject. Think about the things that you find most captivating. Unlike a personal essay, you do not have to be the main subject of a nonfiction book (though you can be!). As you consider your subject matter, remember that you'll need to be able to write a whole book about that subject. Think about whether you'd be able to say that much about a subject before you commit to it. Choose a format. There are a few different ways to write a nonfiction book. Which format you choose depends largely on the subject matter. Before you start writing your book, it's best to think about what format would work best for the type of book you're imagining for yourself. Some examples include: A memoir (from the French word for "memory/reminiscence") is a detailed retelling of some part of your life. Unlike an autobiography, which can cover a whole life, a memoir is usually rooted in a specific theme, event, or time and place in your life. A travelogue discusses a place and its people, culture, and/or food. It tends to be very heavily based upon the author's experience and therefore is a subjective personal account (unlike a travel guide, which seeks to objectively convey information without any personal experience). Nature and environmental writing should revolve around a personal experience with nature. The writing should ultimately promote some degree of awareness of current environmental issues and should ideally foster a sense of wonder, adventure, and advocacy in readers. A biography is a retelling of someone else's life, and it may cover a specific time period (like a memoir of someone else's life) or that person's entire life. Biographies can be captivating narrative reenactments of a person's life or you can even create a historical fiction, and can really bring the subject's story to life. If you have a series of related personal essays, you can organize them into a book-length essay collection. Make sure to focus your story around a central theme, form, or idea. Outline your book. Once you've narrowed down your topic and chosen a format, you'll want to outline the project. Some writers find it helpful to narrow down what each individual chapter will cover during the outlining phase. This is not a hard-and-fast rule, but you may find it helpful. At the very least you should have a simple structure (even a list) that lays out what you would like to include in your book. This way you won't forget about those aspects when you're immersed in the actual writing of the book. Think about where you could best begin your book, and what the logical conclusion of that story should be. If writing a biography, for example, the book might end with a retelling of the subject's death. If you're writing a memoir, the book should adequately frame the chosen time and place in your life. It's up to you to decide where the logical conclusion of that part of your life should be, and how to tell it best. If you're writing a travelogue, you'll need to include details about yourself, as well as where, when, why, and how you traveled. You should make yourself easy to relate to for readers and write in a way that brings your experience to life on the page. When writing about nature or the environment, you'll need to show a genuine engagement with nature (ideally through some form of outdoor activity), balance nature facts with your subjective thoughts and feelings, and show a level of curiosity that makes everyday objects in nature seem new and exciting. Conduct the necessary research. Every nonfiction book requires some research, whether that entails actual encyclopedic research or simple interviews with others. Even if you're writing a memoir, you'll want to ask other people about their memories of that time/place/event so you can cross-check your own memories. Also, keep in mind that research is often a back-and-forth process. You may find that you need to find more sources once you reach a certain point in your writing. If you're writing a biography, you will most likely need a lot of factual information. This may require reading through textbooks and other biographies, or even visits to a museum or historical society. If you're writing a memoir, talk to other people who knew you during that time (ideally a close relative, friend, or someone who was with you as you experienced that part of your life). You'd be amazed at how many details you've forgotten, misremembered, or completely fabricated. A travelogue should draw heavily upon your notes and journals from the trip, but you'll also need to conduct research on the subjects you write about. For example, you'll want to learn as much as possible about the culture and people of that region, the food most frequently associated with that culture, etc. A nature or environmental project should involve researching the names and descriptions of the plants, animals, and geographic areas you describe. You may also want to research how ecosystems work together in complex and unique ways in the areas you write about. Treat each chapter like a work of fiction. Treating the book like a work of fiction does not mean fictionalizing the story. Rather, it means employing the skills and tools that fiction writers use. Create scenes within your essay or book, the same way a fiction writer would portray a scene in a short story or novel. Think of the people in your nonfiction essay/book as characters. Are they fully developed on the page, and do readers get a good sense of their overall personalities? Write strong dialogue. No one can remember the exact, word-for-word transcript of every conversation they've ever had, but your recollection of conversations should be as truthful as possible and written in a way that's easy to follow. Stick to a writing schedule. Writing schedules are invaluable to every writer, but they're pretty much a necessity when you're writing a book-length project. Consider your designated writing time an extension of your job - you'll need to show up and do your work, no matter how you feel or what other distractions may present themselves. Make sure you work in a quiet place where you won't be distracted or disturbed. You can measure your writing time temporally (by how many hours have passed), or by word or page count. Be consistent with your schedule. It doesn't necessarily have to be every day, but it should be the same days and the same times, week in and week out. Produce your first draft. Remember that no one's first draft is perfect, and that includes now-famous authors. The well-polished works of nonfiction you love so much were re-written and revised many times until everything fit perfectly into place. Be patient and don't get discouraged. Focus on larger issues as you hammer out your first draft. You can correct line-level issues during the revision/editing process. Make sure everything is tied up by the end of the book. Don't leave anything unresolved, and make sure the reader will have a sense of closure and completion by the end of your book. Write an informational book. Informational books are somewhat similar to how-to books. However, instead of providing step-by-step guidance, an informational book might simply cover a subject thoroughly enough that the average reader could walk away having learned something. If you're going to write an informational book, you'll need to know a lot about that subject. Most informational books are written by experts in that field. If you're not an expert, that's okay. You'll just need to make up for it with exceptional and extensive research. Informational writing should provide readers with clear definitions of terms, detailed descriptions of what something is and how it works, and information on how to engage with that object (using it, finding it, etc.). Make sure you'll be able to write a whole book on the subject you've chosen. Again, you don't need to know everything about that subject, but it should be something that can be written about at length if you want to fill a whole book. Put together an academic book. An academic book is usually written with the intent of being used by other scholars. This means that any academic book you write will need to be fact checked, proofread, and cover every aspect of that subject. Extensive and exhausting research should also go into any book that will be used for academic purposes. Think about the intended audience/readership for your book. Academic texts should be written formally, avoiding any slang or colloquialisms. Academic writing should also include complex language that is technical and specialized when necessary. You'll need to make connections clear to the reader so that seemingly disparate concepts are explicitly related and clarified. An academic book will treat and comment on research done by other authors in the discipline associated with your book. Compose an instructive book. There are several different types of instructive nonfiction books. Two of the most common include how-to guides and cookbooks. Though very different in subject matter, both books must deliver complex information in simple, step-by-step instructions for readers of every possible background. Writing an instructive book will require a good deal of research as well, but it will be research that will help you relay steps in a project (rather than research that will create the definitive book of World History, for example). An instructive book should break down the basic concepts of a project, define any unique terms, and give readers a thorough, step-by-step guide on how to complete that project. Do your research, talk to experts, and take extensive notes. Then, when the time comes, you'll be able to break down those notes (informed by the research you've done) into a simple how-to guide. An example of an instructional book might be a hunting guide, written for someone who's never been hunting before. The book will need to explain the ins and outs of hunting, from its most basic concepts to the most complex ways of preparing the meat, for example. Set your work aside for a while before revising/editing. Whenever you need to edit or revise any piece of writing, it's best to let it sit in a drawer or on your desktop for a short while first. Jumping right into the editing and/or revision stage can make it much more difficult to polish your piece of writing into a masterpiece, in part because you're still very attached to the work you've done and the details are still very clear in your head (meaning you're not approaching it like a reader would). Give yourself anywhere from a few days to a few weeks after finishing the project before you attempt to revise/edit your work. If you try to edit/revise right away, you'll be less likely to notice issues within the writing (typos/errors, as well as things that aren't clear or don't make sense), and you'll have a harder time cutting things that aren't necessary. Keep in mind that revising and editing your work is an essential part of the writing process. Do not skip over this step or spend less time on it than the other steps. Read your draft out loud. Your brain is hardwired to connect patterns without even thinking about whether anything is missing. It's why you're able to read short notes upside down, for example, without having to turn the page right-side up. The same is true of typos and missing words in a sentence: you are so familiar with the concept you're writing about (and subsequently reading about) that you might not even notice that you left out some vital part. Read your draft slowly out loud to yourself. Take your time and circle, highlight, or otherwise mark anything that is incorrect or incomplete. Don't make revisions as you read, though, or you could lose your place many times. As you read, make sure you're only reading what you've written on the page, word for word. In addition to typos and incomplete thoughts, look for any sentences that trip you up or confuse you as you read aloud. These sentences should also be marked for revision. Once you've gotten through the whole thing (or a good chunk of it, like an entire chapter), go through and make the necessary changes. Make sure everything is resolved by the end. Resolving things doesn't mean that all the problems you or others experienced throughout the book are suddenly gone. By resolving things in your book, you should be making sure that all loose ends are tied up, so to speak. Nothing should be confusing or unfulfilled for the reader, and the reader should finish the last page of your essay or book and know that the nonfiction story you've told is complete. This is another aspect of why approaching the work after a short intermission will give you the best results. You may not realize that something hasn't been resolved because you've connected all the dots in your head (which a reader obviously can't do). Ask a trusted friend or colleague to read through your manuscript. Having someone else's eyes looking over your work is a great way to catch errors and omissions in your writing. As you write an essay or a book of nonfiction, you probably have a clear picture in your head of what your project is going to cover, as well as what the final product will look like. This is good for keeping you on track, but it can also color your reading of the final product. If something hasn't been fully explained or resolved, you're less likely to notice it than an outside reader. Your mind will fill in the gaps precisely because you were the author and you know what you meant to say. Ask your friend to help you proofread your manuscript for typos, errors, and other line-level problems. Let your friend know that you want honest, critical assessment (not just praise). Find areas that need expansion and/or clarification. As you revise your essay or book, you'll most likely find sections that are not as complete as they could or should be. As you wrote your manuscript, that section no doubt made sense to you, in part because your mind was able to fill in the gaps and connect the subject to other larger ideas that weren't explicitly written. A reader will not have those gaps filled in, though, and will require some further explanation and elaboration. If anything was rushed through or not fully explored, revisit that section and think about ways to flesh out the subject so it's more comprehensive. Rearrange certain sections to see if they can complement one another. A sparsely-written section may end up being much fuller and more complete by being rearranged near another section. Cut anything that's not necessary. As you revise and edit your writing, you'll need to make some tough choices on what stays and what goes. You will likely be very fond of your own writing, so this part of the process can be difficult - which is why it's so important to set aside your writing before you attempt to edit or revise a manuscript you've completed. Use clear, concise language. Cut out any flowery prose that distracts from the rest of your book or essay. No matter how fond you are of the way a sentence sounds, if it is not necessary or relevant, it shouldn't make the final cut. | Brainstorm ideas for your essay. Narrow down your topic. Try writing in different forms. Incorporate sensory details. Write your first draft. Decide on your subject matter. Choose a format. Outline your book. Conduct the necessary research. Treat each chapter like a work of fiction. Stick to a writing schedule. Produce your first draft. Write an informational book. Put together an academic book. Compose an instructive book. Set your work aside for a while before revising/editing. Read your draft out loud. Make sure everything is resolved by the end. Ask a trusted friend or colleague to read through your manuscript. Find areas that need expansion and/or clarification. Cut anything that's not necessary. |
https://www.wikihow.health/Measure-Fasting-Blood-Sugar | How to Measure Fasting Blood Sugar | To measure your fasting blood sugar at home, start by purchasing a glucometer from a pharmacy. Next, fast for 8 hours before your test. Then, wash your hands with hot water and soap, or clean the finger you're going to prick with an alcohol swab. When you're ready, prick the side of your fingertip with the lancing device, let the blood bead up on your finger, and touch it to the tip of the strip. Afterwards, wait for the results to show up on the screen. Keep a log of your results, and talk to your doctor if your blood sugar is consistently above 100 milligrams, which may indicate a risk for diabetes. | Discuss the reasons for your blood test with your doctor. There are many reasons your doctor might suggest you take a test to measure fasting blood sugar. A family history of diabetes, any symptoms of diabetes, or just regular screening for diabetes are all valid reasons for the test. He or she will discuss your risk factors with you, and schedule another appointment at which to perform the test. If you're unsure why you need the test, just ask! Say something like, “Can you please explain your rationale for ordering this test?” Your provider can then elaborate: “Because your mother got diabetes at age 40, we want to check to make sure you don't have it, too,” or, “You mentioned you've been using the restroom a lot more frequently in the last two months. This can be a sign of diabetes, so we just want to check.” Anyone over the age of 45 should be screened every three years. You should be screened more often if you are overweight (BMI >25), have high cholesterol or blood pressure, are a member of a high-risk ethnic group, or have certain medical conditions. Symptoms of diabetes include the need to urinate more often, vision changes, lightheadedness or fainting, confusion, and having a seizure for the first time. Don’t eat the night before your appointment. “Fasting” blood test means one that is done after 8 hours or more of not eating. It's used to measure the baseline blood sugar in your body, so that food you eat doesn't interfere with the reading. It's okay to drink water the night before and the morning of your test, but avoid food and other fluids like juices and soda (these have lots of sugar in them). Most fasting tests are scheduled for first thing in the morning so you don't have to go hungry all day long. Request an early appointment if one isn't already suggested for you. Fasting impacts your metabolism. You may notice you have a little bit more energy when you don't eat for an extended period of time. Try to go to bed a little earlier than you normally do if you're getting the blood test in the morning so that you give yourself time to fall asleep. Expect to have blood taken. Having your blood sugar tested at the doctor's office involves having a blood sample taken, generally from inside the crook of your elbow. A nurse or other healthcare provider will use a disinfecting swab to clean the area, and will apply a tourniquet (a tight band) to the top of your arm to keep blood in the area they want to sample. They will withdraw blood with a syringe. Some people feel moderate discomfort when the needle is inserted, and others feel only a small prick like a bee sting. You may experience mild throbbing or a small bruise afterwards. The nurse will remove the tourniquet when done, and apply a bandaid. The whole process takes about a minute. This blood sample will probably also be tested for other things, like your hemoglobin A1C – this indicates your average blood sugar over a two to three month period, and is another methods of testing for and monitoring diabetes. Get educated about your results. Normal results for a fasting glucose test is in the range of 70 to 99 mg/dL. A level between 100 and 125 mg/dL indicates a higher risk for type 2 Diabetes because your body isn't making or responding to insulin appropriately. A reading of 126 mg/dL or higher on two separate tests indicates diabetes. Discuss the results with your doctor. Someone from your doctor's office should call you or have you schedule an appointment to explain your results to you. If not, be sure to ask, “What are the results of my fasting blood sugar? What does that mean?” Your doctor or nurse can then explain what your reading was, for instance, “Your test showed a reading of 95 milligrams per deciliter, which is a healthy level,” or, “Your reading was a little high at 115, so we'd like you to come in next week to be retested. You might be pre-diabetic, and if so we want to catch it early and talk about lifestyle changes you can make.” A measurement of 100 mg per dL means that there are 100 milligrams of glucose for every deciliter of blood in your system. A high reading on a fasting blood sugar test is typically the first sign of diabetes or pre-diabetes. Being aware of your glucose levels and working to keep them appropriate can prevent serious health complications in the future. 70 to 99 mg/dL = 3.9 to 5.5 mmol/L Make a plan of action with your doctor. Talk to your doctor about dietary and lifestyle changes you can make to improve your blood glucose, like exercising daily and eating a low-sugar diet. Schedule a follow-up fasting blood sugar test in 1-3 months, depending on what your doctor prefers, so you can put your plan into action and see the results. Always try lifestyle modifications to improve your blood sugar before taking medications, unless your blood sugar is dangerously high as indicated by your doctor. Set realistic goals with your provider – you're not going to change all of your habits overnight. It's common for your doctor to ask questions like, “Do you do anything for exercise? How often do you drink soda?” and then make recommendations: “Try to take a fast-paced walk for 30 minutes 4 times per week, and drink water with your meals instead of soda. What do you think of those changes?” Purchase a blood sugar testing kit. If you have diabetes, testing your blood sugar at home is the simplest way to monitor your glucose level. Many people do test their sugar before or after meals, but doing a fasting blood sugar test once a month is a good way to monitor the status of your diabetes and overall health. Visit your local pharmacy to obtain a testing kit, called a glucometer. Most kits contain lancets (testing needles), a lancing device, testing strips, and a meter to read the results. Many doctors can provide a prescription for these testing kits, which may save you money. Familiarize yourself with your glucometer. Thoroughly read the instruction manual supplied with your blood sugar testing kit so that you are familiar with how it works, know how much blood is required for testing, and feel comfortable with the device. Look at the pictures, read the instructions, and if you have any questions or concerns then contact your doctor before trying to use the machine. They are rather straight-forward devices, but proper use is always the best use. Refrain from eating at least 8 hours before measuring your fasting blood sugar. Go to bed at around 10 or 11 p.m. the night before you test your blood sugar. When you wake up around 7 or 8 a.m. the next day, you will have fasted for at least 8 hours without having to stop yourself from eating throughout the day. Assemble the device. Insert a test strip into the glucometer, ensuring your insert the proper end inward. Insert a lancet into the holder you use to prick your finger. Glucometers may differ in when you insert the test strip. Usually it is inserted in order to turn the machine on, but sometimes you have to put the blood on the strip and then insert it into the machine. Make sure you know which way your glucometer works before you prick your finger. Wash your hands. Use hot water and soap to thoroughly wash your hands. Alternately, clean the finger you're going to prick with an alcohol swab. Test your blood sample. Prick the side of your fingertip with the lancing device. This usually causes no, or very minimal, discomfort. You may need to squeeze or massage the finger you pricked on either side to squeeze out a drop of blood. Let the blood form a small bead on your finger. Hold the bead of blood to touch the tip of the strip at the right place, which should be indicated on the strip. Some people find it more comfortable to prick the side of the finger close to the fingernail, rather than the pad of the finger – there are fewer nerve endings on the side, making it a less sensitive area. Read the results. The results will show up on the digital screen of your glucometer. How long it takes to show up may vary between machines. The numbers from an at-home test mean the same thing as the numbers from a test done at your doctor's office: Below 100 mg/dL is normal, 100 to 125 mg/dL suggests impaired fasting glucose, and 126 mg/dL or higher may indicate diabetes. Usually, more than one blood test is done to confirm the diagnosis of diabetes. If your at-home results are high and you have not yet spoken to your doctor about the risk of diabetes, contact them and set up an appointment to discuss it. Record your results. Keep a log of your fasting glucose levels so you can compare them over time. Whether it's something you do at home once a month, once every 3 months, or once every 6 months, look for trends to see if your blood sugar is staying the same, lowering, or increasing. Take your log with you when you visit your doctor so they become aware of any trends you record. Some glucometers record your results. Bring your glucometer with you to every doctor's visit. | Discuss the reasons for your blood test with your doctor. Don’t eat the night before your appointment. Expect to have blood taken. Get educated about your results. Make a plan of action with your doctor. Purchase a blood sugar testing kit. Familiarize yourself with your glucometer. Refrain from eating at least 8 hours before measuring your fasting blood sugar. Assemble the device. Wash your hands. Test your blood sample. Read the results. Record your results. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Catch-Lightning-Bugs | How to Catch Lightning Bugs | Before you catch lightning bugs, poke some holes in the top of a jar or clear container to create a breathable home for the bugs. When your ready to hunt, go out at dusk, as this is when lightning bugs are most active. If you have a flashlight, you can turn it on and off to mimic their light pattern and attract them to you. Otherwise, you can just wait for some to fly near you. Once the bugs are close enough, use a net or your hands to carefully catch one and transfer it to your jar. | Use an old jar or clear container to house your bugs. Poke holes in the top of the container for ventilation so your lightning bugs can get air. Place some damp leaves or a moist paper towel in your container to keep the air inside humid. Lightning bugs can breathe easier this way. Don't make the ventilation holes too large or your lightning bugs may become trapped while trying to escape. Holes that are about the diameter of pencil lead are ideal. A piece of breathable fabric or mesh sealed with a rubber band makes a good lid too. Get a bug catching net. If you don't have one already, bug catching nets are usually easy to find at pet supply stores. You can also make one using a wire hanger, a stick, and some netting (old pantyhose or cheesecloth works best). Turn off exterior lights. If there are bright lights around your home or near the area you plan to hunt for lightning bugs, turn them off or go somewhere a little darker. Artificial light can scare off lightning bugs and make them harder to spot. Find a friend. It's not easy to catch lightning bugs alone. Have a friend keep your jar at the ready while you hunt for bugs with the net. After you've caught a few, trade places and let your partner have a turn with the net. Hunt for lightning bugs at the edges of ponds or under low-hanging branches. Sometimes you won't need to go farther than your porch! Just follow their flashing lights. Lightning bugs are active at dusk and usually stop shining as the night gets darker. For best results, hunt for them in the evening just as the sun is setting. Shine your flashlight to mimic lightning bugs. You can attract lightning bugs by imitating their light patterns. Use a small flashlight (LED works best) to repeat a lightning bug's flashing rhythms. Never shine your light directly at the lightning bugs or they'll get scared and fly away. Use a blue light if you have one. You can also put a piece of blue paper over your flashlight to create a blue glow. Scientists suspect that lightning bugs interpret blue light in a special way. Using blue light doesn't confuse their flash patterns and makes them easier to attract. Get ready to use your net. Once you're close enough to the lightning bugs, gently sweep your net back and forth in their direction until you've caught a few. Be patient, it might take you a little while. If you're not squeamish about handling bugs, you can catch them with your hands. Be careful not to injure them! Put the captured bugs in the jar. Gently coax the lightning bugs into the jar and close the lid. It's OK if you lose a few. Let your lightning bugs go. While lightning bugs can survive and reproduce in captivity, it's always best to release them within a day after capture. Keeping them overnight and releasing them the next evening is a good way to make sure they'll continue to light up the night for others. Make sure to release your lightning bugs at night. They're most active during this time and are more likely to avoid predators. | Use an old jar or clear container to house your bugs. Get a bug catching net. Turn off exterior lights. Find a friend. Hunt for lightning bugs at the edges of ponds or under low-hanging branches. Shine your flashlight to mimic lightning bugs. Get ready to use your net. Put the captured bugs in the jar. Let your lightning bugs go. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Create-a-Website-and-Earn-Money | How to Create a Website and Earn Money | Once you've found a topic for your website, build your site on your domain of choice, like Blogger or Wordpress. Once your website is up and running, sign up for Google AdSense in order to receive money from ads on your page. Always make sure to update your website regularly with new content to keep your audience engaged, or try promoting your site on social media for an even larger reach. | Define your goal. In order to attract any investors (in the form of advertisers), you must have a place for them to sell their wares. Attracting advertisers must be your primary goal, as that is what will make your financial aspirations a success. Know what advertisers or ad placement algorithms are looking for in an advertising venue (i.e., your website): generally, it's potential buyers with disposable income who visit your site in significant numbers, and would be interested in products that are closely related to the content on your site. What you want in a site, then, is to attract—and keep—a lot of visitors. The longer they stay, the more likely it is that they will eventually leave your site by clicking not on the back button, but on your advertiser's links. Find a market. To generate the most traffic, and thus the most revenue, be selective in your target market. While every demographic has its strong points and weak points, studies have shown that younger people are generally more optimistic and more adventurous—and thus likely to click on an advertisement more readily. Keep in mind that the goal is clicks, not sales: that's what generates your revenue. Once the visitor has clicked out of your site, it's up to the merchant to make the sale. You get paid, regardless of the outcome. Search the web for trends and ideas for websites, and include the year in your search so that you avoid wasting search results on what was hot in 2006. For example, searching Google for "website ideas 2012" returned nearly a billion results. From there, it's just a matter of combing through to find ideas that pique your interest. Secure a domain. In the halcyon days of the early 21st century, you could create a business name, and find a domain to match. These days, it's virtually impossible. However, you can be creative with hyphenated names. While "geeks.com" (and.net,.org, even.xxx) is taken, trying something like "website-4-g33ks" instead. One good way to proceed is to secure a ".com" domain, find a host (many domain registrars will also host sites), and build your own site. This has the advantage of being the most flexible in terms of design and installation of custom code. Alternately, you can sign up with a service such as Blogger, from Google, or Wordpress—both of which will not only let you put your site name in front of their service name (e.g., geeks.wordpress.com ), they will give you that and a website for free. The advantage, aside from that, is that Blogger and Wordpress give you a great number of really well-designed templates to make your site look visually awesome. The downside is that generally takes having a "pro" version (i.e., paid for) before you can do any serious customizing. Build your site. Using the templates provided, or a site of your own design (or from a designer), put together your website. What you do will be based almost entirely on the market you are attempting to reach. Again, though, whether you are ultimately offering a personal service, like "Cleavon's Auto Repair Site," or a total web-centric site like "Sara's Mouth-Watering Recipes," the goal is to keep people on your site. That means the content is king—the same as it ever was. If you're offering a service, your site could have content specific to your specialty. Cleavon, for example, might have some basic articles on changing oil, fixing a flat, or a FAQ about all those little sounds a car might make. Sarah could feature, along with recipes, information such as weight and measure conversion, the differences between types of flours, and anecdotal tales of kitchen disasters and successes. In both cases, going beyond the basic service provided gives visitors a reason to stick around—and click on ads! Keep it fresh. Don't post one or two articles and call it a day. Remember that this is your income stream we're talking about developing, so think of it as your job—part-time or full time, you have to devote some time to it every day if you want to see the paychecks come rolling in. The more you write, the more interest your site will hold. The more interest your site holds, the more people will follow it. and more importantly, the more relevant your site will appear to the ad placement algorithms. More ads = more clicks = more money. Never lose sight of that goal. Sign up for Google AdSense. AdSense will place ads for goods and services that are relevant to your site's visitors, based on the content of your site. You get paid every time an ad appears on your site, or an ad is clicked on. You get paid a very small amount for each impression (view) or click. Therefore, the more traffic you generate, the more clicks and impressions you will have, and the more money you will receive. Promote your site. Every time you post, every time you make a change, every time you change a period to an exclamation mark or correct "teh" to "the," let the world know via Twitter, Facebook, Tumblr, LinkedIn, and all the rest of the social media world. The key is to spread the word. Have accounts on all of the above and make sure you have prominent links to your website on all of them. Start an email campaign as well. Once a week, publish a "best of my site" HTML email—frequent enough that people enjoy the content, but not so much that it becomes spammy. Pay attention to your metrics. Find which ads work best, and do more ads and pages like those. By continually refining your process, each visit will be a higher value for revenue generation. Always remember: the longer they stay, the bigger your paycheck will be. Good luck! Sign up as an affiliate. Companies use affiliate programs to boost their online sales, and most of these affiliate programs are free to join. Every time a visitor buys an item through the affiliate link on your website, you earn an affiliate commission. | Define your goal. Find a market. Secure a domain. Build your site. Keep it fresh. Sign up for Google AdSense. Promote your site. Pay attention to your metrics. Sign up as an affiliate. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Feel-Better-when-You-Have-a-Cold-(for-Girls) | How to Feel Better when You Have a Cold (for Girls) | You can feel better when you have a cold if you're a girl by resting up at home to help your body heal before you return to school. To help you feel better quickly, try to stay hydrated by drinking water and hot tea with honey and lemon, which will soothe your throat. Additionally, try eating chicken soup, which eases nasal congestion and helps you stay hydrated. Another way to ease nasal congestion is to take a hot shower, since breathing in the hot steam will help rehydrate your nose and throat. | Sleep. Getting enough sleep is one of the most important ways girls can help get rid of a pesky cold. Your body is already fighting a battle against the cold and trying to get rid of it, which in turn, makes your body more tired. If you can, try to stay home from school or work. If that isn't possible, lighten your load a bit. At lunchtime, go to the nurse's office and see if you can rest in there until the end of lunch. Rehydrate. You have to avoid getting dehydrated, which will make it harder for your body to fight off the cold. Drink lots of water, orange juice, and tea. Avoid soda (even the sugar-free kind) and coffee, because the sugar and caffeine will tax your immune system and it will take longer for you to get well. It might pay you to remember tea also contains caffeine. Hot liquids especially can help alleviate your congestion and soothe your inflamed throat and nose. Try hot water with honey and lemon, or a nice soothing mint tea. Avoid milk (and other dairy products) as these contribute to the production of mucus and will make girls feel worse. Gargle to ease your throat. There are different kinds of gargles you can use to help your throat and your congestion. You can buy them at any drugstore, but it's super easy to make one right at home. Try 1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon of salt mixed with an 8-ounce glass of warm water. Mix a little honey and apple cider vinegar in an 8-ounce glass of warm water. Steep 1 tablespoon of lemon juice in 2 cups of hot water. Mix in 1 teaspoon of honey and allow it to cool to room temperature before gargling. Blow your nose properly. Sniffing your mucus back into your head instead of blowing it can make your cold worse, and can hurt your eardrums, giving you an earache on top of everything else. There is also a right way to blow your nose. Doing otherwise can, again, hurt your eardrum. The correct way is to press one finger over a nostril and blow gently to clear the other nostril. Repeat on the other nostril, both nostrils are cleared. Remember to wash your hands after. This method is not just for girls, it's okay for others to blow their nose this way too. Get over the counter medications. This is only for helping to ease your symptoms. There is no cold medication of any kind that will prevent or treat a cold. Also, cold medication can have unpleasant side effects and worsening of symptoms when you stop taking them. That said, they can help give you some relief, especially at night so you can sleep. Decongestants are used to reduce nasal congestion and usually come as a spray or to be taken by mouth. They only ease symptoms for a short period of time and are usually best to be used at night when you're trying to sleep (and many cause drowsiness, anyway). Do NOT use it for longer than 7 days. Painkillers like paracetamol, ibuprofen, or aspirin can help reduce a fever and alleviate pain (like the pressure from your congested sinuses). You really shouldn't take them if you're under the age of 16 Do if you are a girl aged less than 16 don't take them. Make sure to check that it's okay to take the painkiller if you're already taking other cold medication. Get steamy. Since colds thrive in dry conditions, and dry air dries your throat and nasal passages causing a stuffy nose and scratchy throat, getting moisture in your body and home can help ease your cold symptoms. You can run a hot steamy shower and sit in it with the bathroom door closed and breathe in the steam. Adding a little eucalyptus can help open your air passages for a while. Stand over a steaming pot and drape a cloth or towel over your head to trap in the steam. Breathe deep. You can also get a humidifier, just make sure that you clean it properly to avoid mold, fungi, and bacteria. Put hot or cold packs on your congested sinuses. These help alleviate the pressure caused by all the mucus in your sinuses and can help you feel better. Drugstores have reusable hot and cold packs available or you can heat a damp washcloth for 55 seconds in the microwave as a hot pack and use a packet of frozen peas as a cold pack. Put mentholated salve under your nose. Various vapor rubs or menthol rubs like Olbas Oil, Vicks, or Mentholatum can help you breathe more comfortably if you apply a bit directly under your nostrils and they can help alleviate the redness and chapped areas on your nostrils. Elevate your head. This is especially important to do at night, but elevating your head helps drain your nasal passageways of the mucus that's been collecting in them and will help you sleep more comfortably at night. Put extra pillows on your bed so that you're sleeping propped upright. Eat chicken soup. Chicken soup can do a couple of things to help girls get well more quickly. One, it acts as an anti-inflammatory agent and two, it speeds up the movement of mucus which eases nasal congestion and can help get rid of viruses. Also, it aids in keeping you hydrated. Eat healthily. Healthy eating is a huge part of getting better more quickly and in staying better once you've gotten rid of your cold. This means avoiding sweets while you're sick: no soda, no candy, no ice cream, no dairy. Sugar is apparently terrible for your immune system. It curbs the immune system cells that attack viruses, which in turn keeps you from getting better quickly and staying better. Sugar can also irritate areas that are already inflamed (like your throat). Try to eat more of the brightly colored fruits and veggies like berries, citrus fruits, kiwi, apples, red grapes, kale, onions, spinach, sweet potatoes, and carrots and garlic. Exercise. Exercise helps boost your immune system which allows it to better fight infections and viruses. Girls who don't exercise are much more likely to get sick (or get a cold) than those who do exercise. Exercise also releases feel-good chemicals and helps you sleep better, which in turn helps boost your immune system. Even when you're feeling bad because you have a cold, try for at least a 30-minute walk, or some yoga. It will help you get better more quickly. Use a saline nasal spray. Saltwater rinses and nasal sprays break down the mucus that is congesting your nasal passageways and removes virus particles and bacteria from your nose. You can get something like a Neti pot at a health food store, or simply use a bulb syringe. Mix 1/4 teaspoon of salt with 1/4 teaspoon of baking soda in 8-ounces of warm water. Lean your head over a sink and gently squirt the saltwater solution into your nostril. Hold 1 nostril closed with your finger while you squirt the saltwater solution into the other and let drain. Repeat 2 to 3 times on both nostrils. Get rested. Obviously, sleep is important to getting over a cold, but try to do calm, quiet, non-taxing things when you're sick. This way your body is less stressed out and more able to deal with getting rid of your cold. Even if you're not taking a bunch of naps, lying down with a book or watching some television can help you feel better. Don't use zinc. Zinc is one of those things people are still debating over the effectiveness of, but recent studies don't seem to think that it does much for you when you have a cold. Zinc can also have the side-effects of a lingering bad taste and nausea. Do NOT use nasal cold remedies that contain zinc, as they have been linked to permanent loss of smell. Don't use antibiotics. Antibiotics attack bacteria and not cold viruses. They won't help you get better faster and over-use of antibiotics has led to the growing problem of antibiotic-resistant bacteria. Don't use Echinacea medication. While for most people, there is nothing wrong with using Echinacea, there does not seem to be any particular benefit to it either. It seems to be unlikely to help make your cold go away sooner. If you have asthma, however, do not use this. Echinacea medications have been known to make asthma symptoms worse. | Sleep. Rehydrate. Gargle to ease your throat. Blow your nose properly. Get over the counter medications. Get steamy. Put hot or cold packs on your congested sinuses. Put mentholated salve under your nose. Elevate your head. Eat chicken soup. Eat healthily. Exercise. Use a saline nasal spray. Get rested. Don't use zinc. Don't use antibiotics. Don't use Echinacea medication. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Make-a-Frozen-Bagel-Taste-Freshly-Baked | How to Make a Frozen Bagel Taste Freshly Baked | The best way to make a frozen bagel taste freshly baked is to let it defrost for a few hours first. Remove the bagel from the freezer and leave it out at room temperature for 2 to 3 hours. Lightly sprinkle the crust of the bagel with water to make it go slightly crispy in the oven. Cut the bagel in half and then bake it at 400 degrees Fahrenheit for 10 to 15 minutes. If you don't have time to wait for a frozen bagel to thaw, use either a toaster or a microwave to heat it up until it's cooked through. | Defrost the bagel at room temperature for 2-3 hours. If the bagel was individually wrapped before it went into the freezer, leave it in its wrap while it is defrosting. If it wasn't, wrap it in plastic wrap or aluminum foil when you take it out of the freezer to help it retain its moisture level while it's defrosting. You could also let the bagel defrost overnight, which could especially come in handy if you want to eat a bagel first thing in the morning. Preheat your oven to 400 °F (204 °C) 10-15 minutes before you’re ready to eat. Once your bagel is defrosted, turn on your oven and set it to the appropriate temperature. Give the oven 5-10 minutes to fully preheat. If you prefer a less-crispy exterior, set the oven to 350 °F (177 °C) instead of 400 °F (204 °C). For an extra-crispy bagel, set the oven to 420 °F (216 °C). Sprinkle the exterior of the bagel with water. Wet the tips of your fingers and flick the water onto the sides of the bagel. Repeat 2-3 times so that each side is even. This will create a little bit of steam in the oven and give your bagel a crispier crust. If the bagel is already sliced, it's okay if some water gets onto the interior of the bagel—it won't hurt anything. Cut the bagel in half if it isn’t already sliced. Use a serrated knife or a mechanical slicer to halve the bagel. If you're using a knife, place the bagel flat on the countertop and cut horizontally through the middle of the bagel. If you're using a slicer, simply insert the bagel and push down on the blade's handle. Be careful when slicing the bagel that you don't accidentally cut your hand. Place the bagel on a baking sheet with the sliced sides facing up. Position the bagel halves so that the interior of the bagel is facing up so that the heat from the oven will cook it more evenly. Keep the exterior of the bagel against the baking sheet so it gets crispier. You can also bake bagels whole if you prefer. Just keep in mind that the interior of the bagel won't get crispy and browned at all. Bake the bagel in the oven for 10-15 minutes. Every oven bakes things at a slightly different rate, so check the bagel after 10 minutes to see if it is done yet. If it doesn't have much color on the top, cook it for an additional 5 minutes. It is done when it's lightly browned on top, though feel free to cook it for longer if you prefer a toastier bagel. If you're baking an unsliced bagel, it should still need just 10-15 minutes to bake on the outside and heat all the way through. Remove the baking sheet from the oven and let the bagel cool down. Use oven mitts to safely remove the baking sheet and set it down on a protected surface. Give the bagel 3-4 minutes to cool off before you pick it up and add your toppings of choice. Don't forget to turn off the oven when you're done using it. Take a bagel out of the freezer and unwrap it. If you wrapped the bagel individually before freezing it, simply pull one out of the freezer and discard its wrapper. If it was frozen along with other bagels, open the container, take one out, and reseal the container before placing the rest of the bagels back into the freezer. If you can't bake a bagel, toasting it is the next best option. It'll crisp up the exterior and hopefully leave the interior nice and chewy. Put the bagel into the toaster and set it to the desired level of doneness. Some toasters even have bagel-specific settings that you can use. Keep in mind that you can always toast a bagel more, but if it is overdone you can't make it less toasted. Every toaster is different, so use your best judgment when deciding what setting to use. It should be a bit higher than what you would use for toast since the bagel is thicker than sliced bread. Use your favorite bagel toppings to create a satisfying meal or snack. Once the bagel is done, remove it from the toaster and set it on a plate. It'll be really hot, so be careful to not burn your fingers. Try out some of these great bagel toppings: Cream cheese (plain or flavored) Peanut butter Nutella Egg Smoked salmon and capers Pizza sauce and cheese Smashed avocado Pull a bagel out of the freezer. If the bagel was wrapped individually, take it out of its wrap and throw it away. If it was stored in bulk with other bagels, take it out and rewrap the rest of the bagels before replacing them in the freezer. Microwaving a bagel is a good way to quickly heat it up straight from the freezer. Keep in mind that it won't produce a crispy exterior, though. If you do want that crispy outside, opt for the toaster or bake the bagel in the oven. Sprinkle warm water onto the bagel. It may seem counterintuitive, but adding some water to the bagel will keep it from drying out too much in the microwave. If the bagel is pre-sliced, keep it whole during this step. Dip your fingers in warm water and flick it all over the exterior of the bagel. You could also wrap the bagel in a moistened paper towel for an even chewier bagel. Leave the paper towel in place while the bagel is in the microwave. Put the bagel on a microwave-safe dish. Separate the bagel halves and put them face-side up on a plate. If you choose to not use a plate or dish, set them on top of a paper towel in the microwave to keep them from sticking to the surface. If the bagel is unsliced, you could either slice it before you microwave it or wait until afterward. Microwave the bagel in 20-second increments until it is cooked through. The total cooking time depends on your microwave, but it usually takes about 1 minute and 15 seconds to 2 minutes to thoroughly cook through. Test how done it is by poking the doughy section with your finger—if the bagel still feels cold or hard, it's not done yet. Be careful when taking the plate out of the microwave as it may be hot to the touch. Slice bagels before freezing them so they’re ready to eat at any time. Use a serrated bread knife or purchase a mechanical slicer to make separating bagels a quick and easy task. Wrap bagels individually in plastic wrap or aluminum foil. Wrapping the bagels individually before freezing them prevents freezer burn, which is a surefire way to ruin the flavor of the bagels. Use enough material to fully cover the entire bagel. Freezing the bagels removes moisture from them. Wrapping them up will help them retain a bit more moisture than they would if you froze them all together. Place all the bagels into a freezer-safe resealable plastic bag. Once the bagels have been wrapped individually, you can store them all together in the same big plastic bag. Just make sure to use a bag that is resealable and preferably made for use in the freezer. If there are too many bagels and you can't seal the plastic bag, separate the bagels into 2 or 3 packages. Store bagels in the freezer for 6-12 months for the best quality of taste. Ideally, try to use the bagels within the first week of freezing them for the freshest taste. But if you need or want to store them for longer, go for it! This is a great way to store bagels that you buy or make in bulk. Label the bag with the “frozen on” date so that you remember how long they've been in storage. Discard any bagels that are discolored or develop freezer burn. Technically, the bagel will still be safe to eat as long as it has been frozen properly, but it probably won't taste very good anymore. | Defrost the bagel at room temperature for 2-3 hours. Preheat your oven to 400 °F (204 °C) 10-15 minutes before you’re ready to eat. Sprinkle the exterior of the bagel with water. Cut the bagel in half if it isn’t already sliced. Place the bagel on a baking sheet with the sliced sides facing up. Bake the bagel in the oven for 10-15 minutes. Remove the baking sheet from the oven and let the bagel cool down. Take a bagel out of the freezer and unwrap it. Put the bagel into the toaster and set it to the desired level of doneness. Use your favorite bagel toppings to create a satisfying meal or snack. Pull a bagel out of the freezer. Sprinkle warm water onto the bagel. Put the bagel on a microwave-safe dish. Microwave the bagel in 20-second increments until it is cooked through. Slice bagels before freezing them so they’re ready to eat at any time. Wrap bagels individually in plastic wrap or aluminum foil. Place all the bagels into a freezer-safe resealable plastic bag. Store bagels in the freezer for 6-12 months for the best quality of taste. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Cite-Figures-in-APA | How to Cite Figures in APA | To cite a figure in APA, start by inserting the figure into your paper and placing the citation right below it. Begin each citation with “Figure” and the number of the figure in italics. Next, include a brief explanation of what the figure refers to, such as “Graph of statistics on household income in 2010.” Then, write “Reprinted from,” followed by the source and page number where you found the figure. Additionally, include the author's first and last name, if applicable, and the copyright information. | Begin with “Figure” and then the number of the figure in italics. The figure does not need a specific title. Instead, start with the word “Figure” and then the number of the figure based on where it is placed in the paper, going in chronological order. For example, if the figure is the first figure to appear in the paper, you would start the citation with, “ Figure 1.” If the figure is the fourth figure to appear in the paper, the citation would start with, “ Figure 4.” Include a descriptive phrase about the figure. Give the reader a brief explanation that outlines what the figure is about or refers to. The phrase should summarize the information in the figure in a concise, clear way. For example, if you are citing a graph with statistics, you may write, “Graph of statistics on household income in Canada in 2010.” Or if you are citing an image, you may write, “Black and white photograph of Martha Graham in the Vienna Performance Hall.” Note the source or reference where you found the figure. Write, “Reprinted from” or “Adapted from,” followed by the title of the book, article, or website where you found the figure. Include the page number where you found the figure as well if you are citing a figure from a book. For example, you may write in a citation for a book, “Reprinted from The Life of Martha Graham (p 84).” For a citation for an article, you may write, “Adapted from 'Statistics Canada Reveals Shift in Census.'” If you are citing a figure from a website, you may write, “Reprinted from The Huffington Post.” Include the author’s first and second initial as well as their surname. Use the author's first and second initial, if available, rather than the author's full first name. Note their last name as well. If there are multiple authors, include them all, separating them with “and.” For example, you may write, “...by K.L. Lee” or “...by B. Lork and M. Casper.” List the source. If the reference is a book, note the year the book was printed as well as the city and state of the publisher. Include the name of the publisher as well. For example, you may write, “2008, New York, NY: Homer Press” or “2010, New Haven, CT: Beehive Press.” If you are using an article reference, include the year the article was published as well as the name of the journal and the number of the volume where the article appears in italics. List the page number where you found the figure in the article as well. For example, you may write, “2017, Statistics Canada , 56 , p. 103” or “2002, Children Today , 14 , p. 90.” If the reference is a website, note the year the figure was published on the website, if available. If it is not available, use “n.d.” for “no date.” Then, note, “Retrieved from” and the URL of the website. For example, you may write, “2008, Retrieved from http://www.statisticscanada.com” or “n.d., Retrieved from http://www.childrentoday.org.” Note the copyright information for the figure. Finish the citation by noting the copyright year and the name of the copyright holder for the figure. You should be able to find this information in the citation for the figure in the original source. For example, you may write, “Copyright 217 by the Statistics Canada Bureau” or “Copyright 2012 by the Children Choice Organization.” If you cannot find copyright information for the figure, you can leave this information out. Review the completed citation. Once you have created the citation for the figure, look over it to ensure it contains all the necessary information. A complete citation for a figure from a book would be: “ Figure 1. Black and white photograph of Martha Graham in the Vienna Performance Hall. Reprinted from The Life of Martha Graham (p 84), by K.L. Lee, 2008, New York, NY: Homer Press. Copyright 2008 by the Modern Dance School.” A complete citation for a figure from an article would be: “ Figure 4. Graph of statistics on household income in Canada in 2010. Adapted from 'Statistics Canada Reveals Shift in Census,' by B.Lork and M.Casper, 2017, Statistics Canada , 56 , p. 103. Copyright 217 by the Statistics Canada Bureau.” A complete citation for a figure from a website would be: “ Figure 6. Drawing of a child playing with plastic toys. Reprinted from Children Today, n.d., Retrieved from https://www.childrentoday.org/. Copyright 2008 by Joan Lee.” Place the citation underneath the figure and double-space it. The citation should always appear below the figure in your paper. This will ensure it identifies the figure clearly. You should also double-space it so it is easy to read. Get permission to reprint the figure if you plan to publish your paper. If you'd like to publish your paper in a thesis, a journal, or a publication, you will need to get permission from the original copyright holder to reprint the figure. Then, note you obtained permission by placing “Reprinted with permission” at the end of the citation. For example, you may write, “ Figure 4. Graph of statistics on household income in Canada in 2010. Adapted from 'Statistics Canada Reveals Shift in Census,' by B.Lork and M.Casper, 2017, Statistics Canada , 56 , p. 103. Copyright 217 by the Statistics Canada Bureau. Reprinted with permission.” Cite the source for the figure in the Reference List. Per APA guidelines, you must include a full bibliographic entry for the source for the figure at the end of your paper on the Reference List page. Double-space each entry in the Reference List and order them alphabetically. Follow APA format for the citation, making sure to include the title of the book, article, or website, the author, and the publishing information for the source. For example, a citation in your Reference List for a book would be, "Lee, K.L. 2008. The Life of Martha Graham. New York, NY: Homer Press." | Begin with “Figure” and then the number of the figure in italics. Include a descriptive phrase about the figure. Note the source or reference where you found the figure. Include the author’s first and second initial as well as their surname. List the source. Note the copyright information for the figure. Review the completed citation. Place the citation underneath the figure and double-space it. Get permission to reprint the figure if you plan to publish your paper. Cite the source for the figure in the Reference List. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Make-a-Cartoon | How to Make a Cartoon | To make a cartoon, start by coming up with an appealing main character and creating a script if there's going to be any dialogue in your cartoon. Next, create a storyboard with the main plot elements and basic drawings for each major plot development or character introduction. Then, animate scenes in your cartoon using hand drawn at cel animation, stop motion, or computer animation. Once the cartoon is animated, record sound effects to add in or download free pre-recorded sounds online. | Consider your resources. Your budget might be high, but chances are, your imagination and your talent are not. When brainstorming a new idea for a cartoon, keep in mind how much you can afford to invest in the process and what your artistic skill is capable of producing. If you are a beginner, you might want to stay away from stories and themes that require animating complex scenes, like huge battles or intricate machinery. Your animating skills may need to be refined and practiced more before you are ready to tackle a project of that size. Also keep in mind that you will need more equipment depending on how complex you want your cartoon to be. A claymation cartoon with two dozen characters and four sets will require more supplies than a cel animation with only one scene. If budget is an issue, keep it short and simple. Think about length. The right length for your cartoon will vary based on the market you are trying to distribute it in. Knowing the length from the start will help you brainstorm a story that can fit within that time frame. If you want to create a cartoon that could develop into a long-term show, your cartoon will need to be either 11 minutes or 20 to 25 minutes. Cartoon movies can go anywhere from 60 minutes to 120 minutes. If a one-time cartoon made for the Internet is all you want to create, you can create a short running from 1 to 5 minutes. Creating anything longer may turn people away from viewing it. Know your intended audience. Even though cartoons are traditionally aimed at kids, there are many cartoons made for older adolescents and adults. The age group and other audience demographics should shape the ideas you come up with. For example, a cartoon about something tragic, like the death of a loved one, would be better reserved for a slightly older audience. If a young audience is your target, you would be better off choosing a topic that is a little simpler to understand and more concrete. Work from your experiences. Another way to put this would be, “write what you know.” Many storytellers write stories based on events, feelings, or relationships they experienced in their own lives. Make a list of possible life events you have been through that could be the underlying idea behind a cartoon. If you want to create a cartoon with a serious tone, think about life experiences that really mold and shape you: an unrequited love, the loss of a friend, working hard toward a goal that seemed impossible, etc. If you want to create something more humorous, take an everyday situation like waiting in traffic or waiting on an email and exaggerate how difficult the situation is in a funny way. Alternatively, you can use something already funny to create a humorous cartoon. Use your imagination. Of course, there are many plots that do not involve any trace of life experience. You can use your interests and your imagination to craft an entirely new premise, as long as you include enough relatable details to help people connect to the characters or the story. Relatable details include underlying themes that are universally appealing. For example, most people can relate to a coming-of-age story, regardless of whether that story takes place in the contemporary real world, in a futuristic space-age setting, or in a sword-and-sorcery fantasy setting. Design an appealing protagonist. Make a list of character traits you would like to see in a protagonist. Write positive features as well as faults to avoid making a character too perfect. This is an important step no matter how simple or complex your cartoon will be. While a character in a longer, more serious cartoon will need to develop more, a short, funny cartoon will need a protagonist with a clear goal and clear character traits that allow him or her to react to the conflict in whatever way he or she does. Write a script if there is any dialog. If any of the characters in your cartoon will have spoken lines, you will need a voice actor to recite those lines, and your voice actor will need a written script so that he or she knows what needs to be said. You need to know the script before you can animate the cartoon. The mouth moves in different ways for different phonemes, and you will need to animate these different mouth movements in a believable way so that any voice overs you add later will match them. Jot down a basic narrative of events. If there is no dialog in the cartoon, you might be able to skip a formal script. You should still write down a basic narrative of events so that you can keep track of the story and its different pieces, though. Write multiple drafts of any script before beginning the production phase. Write your first draft, set it aside, and come back to it in a day or two to see how you can improve upon it and make it flow more effectively. Divide your story into main parts. A short cartoon may only consist of a single scene, but if your cartoon is a little longer, you might need to divide it into multiple scenes or acts for easier management. Sketch out each major change in action. When you sketch out a formal storyboard, each major change in action should be shown in one of the storyboard squares. Minor changes should be described, but may not need to be drawn out. Use basic shapes, stick figures, and simple backgrounds. A storyboard should be fairly basic. Consider drawing your storyboard frames on index cards so that you can rearrange them and move parts of the story around as necessary. You can also include notes about what is happening in each frame so that it will be easier to remember later on. Familiarize yourself with the different types of animation. In general, most forms of animation will fall under the categories of cel animation, stop motion animation, 2D computer animation, and 3D computer animation. Try your hand at cel animation. Cel animation is the traditional method of making a cartoon. You will need to hand draw each cel or sheet of animation and take pictures of those cels with a special camera. Cel animation utilizes a principle similar to the way a flipbook works. A series of drawings is produced, and each image varies slightly from the next. When displayed in rapid succession, the differences create the illusion of movement. Each image is drawn and colored on a transparent sheet known as a "cell." Use your camera to photograph these drawings and edit them together using animation editing software. Use stop motion techniques. Stop motion is another traditional form of animation, but it is used less commonly than cel animation. “Claymation” is the most common form of stop motion animation, but there are other puppets you can use and make for this sort of cartoon, as well. You can use shadow puppets, sand art, paper puppets, or anything else that can be moved into a range of positions. Each movement must be small. Take a photograph of each movement after making it. Edit the photographs together so that they are displayed in rapid succession. When viewed in this manner, the eye will perceive movement. Consider 2D computer animation. You will need a special computer program for this type of animation, and the product will likely look like a smoother version of a cartoon animated with cel animation. Each 2D computer animation program will work differently, so you will need to find tutorials for the specific program you intend to use in order to learn how to do it. A common example of 2D animation is any cartoon created using Adobe Flash. Animate in 3D using computers. As with 2D animation, you will need special software to produce 3D animated cartoons, as well. In some sense, 3D computer animation is similar in style to stop-motion animation, but the graphics can range from seeming very blocky and pixelated to being very life-like. As with 2D computer animation, each animation software works a little differently than the others. Examples include Maya and 3D Studio Max. Get the right equipment. You will need a good microphone and a way to prevent echo or background noise from bleeding into the sound you want to keep. A high-quality computer microphone will work effectively enough for a beginning cartoon, but if you plan to seriously market and distribute your cartoon, you will eventually need to invest in more professional equipment. When working with a small microphone, encase it in a tube speaker box lined with foam to cut out echo and excess background noise. Record your own sound effects. Get creative and look for simple, everyday ways to make noises passably similar to the noises you need for your cartoon. Make a list of sound effects you will need. Be creative and thorough, including everything from the obvious (explosions, alarm clocks) to the less obvious (footsteps, background noise). Record different versions of each sound so that you have more options to use. A few examples of sounds you can create include: Fire - Manipulate a piece of stiff cellophane Slap - Clap your hands together once Thunder - Shake a piece of plexi-glass or thick cardstock Boiling water - Blow air into a glass of water using a straw Baseball bat hitting a ball - Snap a wooden matchstick Look for free pre-recorded sound effects. If you do not have access to the equipment or otherwise find it impossible to make your own, there are CD-ROMS and websites offering royalty-free pre-record sounds you can use as desired, and this might be a more viable option for you. Always review the usage permissions for any pre-recorded sound effects you use. Even if something is free to download, it may not be free to use, especially for commercial purposes. It is very important that you know what you are permitted to do before you use a sound for your cartoon. Record real voices, if necessary. If your cartoon has dialog in it, you or others you know will need to be the voice bringing your characters to life. As you record your lines, read from the script using appropriate intonation and expression, and make sure that you match your lips to the animated lips of the cartoon. Consider manipulating the voices using computer software. If you have fewer voice actors than characters, you can change the voice of one character simply by adjusting the attributes of the voice sample you already gathered. You will need to invest in special audio editing software to do this, but depending on which one you use, you can likely change the pitch and add overtones, like metallic garbles, to the voice recording. Distribute the cartoon using your own resources. If you have a short, one-time cartoon, or if you are trying to gain a name for yourself on your own, you can add your new cartoon to your digital portfolio and upload a copy to a personal blog, social media account, or video website. Approach a distribution company, animation company, or TV station. If you created a pilot episode for a cartoon at home, you can spread word for it through either route. If accepted, you will need to figure out your new production schedule for future cartoons so that you can get to work all over again. A distribution company will review your pilot episode and determine how marketable it might be. If they decide to represent your cartoon, you will be given a distribution plan and revenue projection. Ask for a formal letter of interest at this point and show the letter to potential investors to let them know that a distributor will be willing to represent your cartoon. If you go directly to an animation company or TV station with your pilot episode, they might be willing to accept and distribute it directly, especially if they have empty time slots to fill. | Consider your resources. Think about length. Know your intended audience. Work from your experiences. Use your imagination. Design an appealing protagonist. Write a script if there is any dialog. Jot down a basic narrative of events. Divide your story into main parts. Sketch out each major change in action. Familiarize yourself with the different types of animation. Try your hand at cel animation. Use stop motion techniques. Consider 2D computer animation. Animate in 3D using computers. Get the right equipment. Record your own sound effects. Look for free pre-recorded sound effects. Record real voices, if necessary. Distribute the cartoon using your own resources. Approach a distribution company, animation company, or TV station. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Deal-With-a-Female-Cat-in-Heat | How to Deal With a Female Cat in Heat | To deal with a female cat in heat, start by keeping her indoors and away from any male cats to avoid an unwanted pregnancy. Then, be prepared for clingy behavior, which is normal and reflects your cat's need for more attention. In response, try to have more regular play sessions with your cat to tire her out and settle her down. Additionally, if your cat starts marking her territory with urine, clean the area immediately with a commercial enzymatic cleaner to remove the urine odor. | Calm her loud meowing. When a cat's in heat, she advertises the fact to increase her chances of finding a boyfriend and having kittens. One way she does this is by vocalizing incredibly loudly and constantly. To an inexperienced owner, it may seem like she's in pain, but this is perfectly normal behavior. You can either choose to deal with the extra noise, or try to calm her down. Try plugging in a Feliway diffuser before your cat comes into heat. This synthetic feline pheromone surrounds her with safe, familiar scents. Pheromones are chemical messengers — a similar idea to the pheromones a female gives off to advertise she is in heat. But the ones in Feliway might have a calming, soothing effect on her. It doesn't work immediately, but the pheromones build up the cat's sense of well-being over a couple of weeks. As such, it's best to plug the diffuser in early and leave it running constantly in the background, so she gets the benefit by the time she comes into heat. Deal with scent marking. Not all female cats do this, but some mark their territory with urine. Urine has potent scent markers that she uses to attract mates. Again, there's nothing you can do to stop this behavior without getting her spayed, so you just have to make do. A few things you can do to make life a little easier include: Making sure she has a clean litter box at all times. Hopefully her house training will lead her to use the box instead of marking in the house. Deodorize immediately if she does mark. This will discourage her from returning to that spot to mark it again. Use an "enzymatic" cleaner to completely remove the urine odor. The enzymes in these products break cat urine down better than any other cleaner. Allow the product to air dry for best results. A home-made alternative is to dilute some biological washing powder in water. Use this to clean the area, then rinse it with water. Clean again with a solution of bicarbonate of soda. Finish by rinsing one last time. Always test cleaning products on a small, hidden patch of fabric before treating a marked patch for odor. Be prepared for clingy behavior. Your cat goes on a massive hormonal roller coaster,which changes her behavior when she's in heat. One difference is that her body language and social behavior might change quite a bit. She might seek out company far more than usual. She may demand that you rub her lower back. When you do, she might flirtatiously hold her tail to one side to better expose her genital area. She may 'commando crawl' across the floor by flattening her front half against the floor, then crawling with her rear end pushed up in the air. She is also likely to squirm and roll around enthusiastically. When combined with the loud crying, it might look like she's in pain. Don't worry — she's just flirting. There's nothing to be done about this behavior. It's perfectly normal, and as long as no males are able to reach her, she'll be fine. Give her extra attention. Tire her out with regular play sessions. This may lessen her energy and help her to settle down and sleep instead of writhing around and yowling. Some female cats enjoy an extra fuss or even a massage when they are in heat. But don't be surprised if she starts acting flirty with you and presents her backside! Don't change her feeding routine. Many female cats don't eat properly when they are in heat. This can cause them to lose weight and body condition, which worries their loving owners. But don't try to make up for her lack of appetite with higher calorie cat food. This will only supply her with even more energy to cry and call. Instead, leave large amounts of her regular cat food available for free-feeding. She can snack whenever she feels like it. Decrease the stress on your other cats. If you own more than one cat, think of how stressful it is for the others to have a calling female in their midst for one week out of every three. This can be unsettling for them. The Feliway diffuser you use to calm the behavior of the cat in heat will also make your other cats feel better. Again, Feliway takes a couple of weeks to build up in your cats' systems, so plug in the diffuser before your female goes into heat. Keep her indoors. If your cat is normally allowed to wander outdoors, you have to put a stop to it as soon as you realize she's in heat. While she's indoors, you can control whether or not male cats have access to her. While she's outdoors, every male in the neighborhood is going to be drawn by her yowling and scent marking. She is very likely to get pregnant. Isolate her from your male cats. If you own an un-neutered male cat, he will likely be drawn to her like a magnet when she's in heat. You must keep all males away from her until her heat has passed. Keep either the male(s) or female isolated in a separate room. Spruce the room up so the isolated cat doesn't grow anxious. Put a litter box in there, along with a comfortable bed, food, and plenty of toys to keep them occupied. Lock your doors and windows. Even if you keep her inside, the neighborhood males will still be able to hear her yowling and smell her scent marking. You may notice a suspicious increase in tomcats lurking around your home. Leaving doors or windows open, even with mosquito mesh acting as a barrier, can be dangerous. A determined male will claw through the mesh to reach your female, and she can get pregnant without even leaving the house. Block off any cat flaps in your doors. Consider spaying her. Rescue centers are over-flowing with unwanted kittens and cats. It's morally questionable to let your cat get pregnant for no good reason. Spaying female cats can be done at any stage in their hormonal cycle. If cost is an issue, many cat rescue or welfare societies offer vouchers towards the cost of surgery. Your local veterinary clinic will be able to point you in the right direction to make inquiries. | Calm her loud meowing. Deal with scent marking. Be prepared for clingy behavior. Give her extra attention. Don't change her feeding routine. Decrease the stress on your other cats. Keep her indoors. Isolate her from your male cats. Lock your doors and windows. Consider spaying her. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Fix-Bad-Breath-on-the-Spot | How to Fix Bad Breath on the Spot | To fix bad breath on the spot, brush your teeth with a small, portable toothbrush using toothpaste if you have it or plain water if you don't. You can even just rinse your mouth with water, use a paper towel to rub your teeth and tongue, and rinse your mouth a second time to “brush” your teeth and freshen your breath! If you can, drink a glass of water with lemon or lime, since acidic fruits cover up smells and fight odor-causing bacteria. You can also chew sugar-free gum, which prevents dry mouth that can lead to bad breath. | Use a portable toothbrush. Some people who suffer from halitosis or are self-conscious of their breath will carry around a toothbrush with them. Bring a small tube of toothpaste. If you don't have toothpaste, know that brushing with tap water can help reduce the smell of microbes that collect when you eat meals. Small, portable toothbrushes can be purchased at any grocery store or pharmacy cheaply. You can also try keeping a pack of mini, disposable toothbrushes with you. This way they won't get dirty and be sanitary each time you use one. Floss your teeth. In addition to a toothbrush or in place of it, you can easily escape to the bathroom and floss your teeth. Many types of floss have a minty aftertaste that'll help freshen your breath. Dentists recommend that you floss after every meal to ensure that food particles don't get lodged in between your teeth. If this seems like too much work, floss at least once a day — preferably before bedtime — to combat foul breath. Flossing after meals is one of the best ways to combat halitosis (bad breath). Consider carrying floss or flossing tools, such as dental floss toothpicks, to floss easily on the go. Use Listerine or some other type of anti-bacterial mouthwash. Listerine comes in travel-sized bottles that can easily be carried in back pockets or pocket books. Gargle for 20 seconds and spit. It will help fight bacteria that cause bad breath as well as give your mouth a fresh smell. Make sure you choose a mouth rinse that boasts anti-gingivitis and/or anti-plaque fighting power. Listerine also makes strips that dissolve on your tongue. These are designed to combat bad breath quickly, but can be quite strong. Chew some sugar-free gum. Sugar-free gum helps to stimulate saliva production. This will help stop your mouth from drying out. A dry mouth often leads to bad breath because bacteria responsible for the foul odor aren't washed away. Gum can also help remove food particles from the crevasses of your teeth. Sugar-free gum isn't a substitute for proper oral hygiene. Don't stop brushing your teeth and flossing. It is possible to get natural gums made from peppermint and other herbs, which will help mask the smell of bad breath in addition to removing matter from your teeth. Chew herbs like mint, parsley, basil, or wintergreen. These herbs won't clean your teeth, but they will counter your bad breath with a strong scent. This works in the short term, but shouldn't be viewed as a long-term solution. You'll also want to beware of debris from these herbs in your teeth. You don't want to trade bad breath for large chunks of parsley in your teeth. Chew nuts and seeds. Nuts have a powerful aroma and the abrasive texture of them will help remove any residual food particles left on your teeth, tongue or gums. Dill and fennel seeds mask odors magnificently. Anise is a licorice-flavored seed that actually has antiseptic properties. Drink water with lemon or lime. In addition to just be a tasty and healthy alternative to soda, this acidic water solution can have powerful effects on bad breath. Since one of the primary causes of bad breath is simply dry mouth — something normally associated with “ morning breath ” — the water will help moisten your mouth, subduing much of the odor. Squeeze as much of the lemon/lime into the water as possible, as it will help cover up the odor. The acidity of the lemons/limes will help combat those bacteria in your mouth that cause bad breath. Use a portable Waterpik. This device is often used in place of floss. It uses pressurized water to rinse away food particles caught in your teeth. You can also use it to rinse off your tongue. Simply slip away to the bathroom, fill the device, and start spraying. If you have some mouthwash, you can add it to the water chamber for an added boost of bad breath fighting power.[Image:Fix Bad Breath on the Spot Step 8 Version 2.jpg|center]] Rinse your mouth with water. Then use a dry paper towel to rub each of your teeth. You can also use the inside of your shirt. This will make your teeth super smooth, like you just brushed your teeth. Then rinse your mouth again. If you have the rough brown type of paper towel, you can rub it on your tongue outwards and get some plaque coating off. Ask someone else. Most people try to breathe into their cupped hand in order to catch a whiff of their own breath, but too often this just gives you an idea of how your hand smells. Since our nasal passages are connected to our mouths, such a technique is not an accurate indicator of your breath's odor. The best way to recognize bad breath on the spot is to consult someone you're comfortable with. Find a loved one — someone you won't turn off too badly — to quickly sniff your breath. Don't make it obvious. Just a quick exhale will do the trick. Lick the inside of your wrist. Step to the side and lick the inside of your wrist. Because your wrist doesn't rub up against many things, it'll be a better indicator of your breath. Wait for your saliva to dry and then give your wrist a whiff. This is one of the most accurate ways of smelling your own breath. Perform the spoon-scrape test. Take a spoon and place it upside-down on the back of your tongue. Slowly, but deliberately drag it to the front of your mouth. Now examine residue that you've collected on the spoon. If it is clear, then you probably don't have bad breath. Most likely, it will be a milky-white or even a yellowish color. What you've collected is a film of bacteria that has accumulated on your tongue. This bacteria is what causes bad breath. It is important to scrape the back (posterior) of the tongue when you are brushing your teeth. This is prime real estate for bacteria that cause bad breath. Similarly, you can perform this test with a piece of gauze — found at any pharmacy. Spoons tend to be more accessible in everyday situations. Get a Halimeter reading. The Halimeter test looks for sulfide signatures in your breath. VSCs or sulfur compounds are commonly found in the human mouth, but high levels of sulfur signatures can indicate bad breath. Sulfur smells like eggs — this is not the smell you want in your mouth during an important meeting. Most likely, your dentist will have to administer the test, but if you really want your own Halimeter, you can purchase one. They are very expensive. Ask your dentist to perform a gas chromatography test. This test measures sulfur levels and several other chemical compounds found in your mouth. This is the most effective test and its readings are considered to be the gold standard. See a dentist if you experience chronic bad breath. If you've tried many of the steps listed here and you still experience bad breath, it is time to see a dentist. Bad breath is one of the most obvious signs of gum disease and plaque buildup. Your dental hygienist and dentist will be able to highlight any missing steps in your dental hygiene routine and help you combat any dental issues you might be having. Visit a dentist if you’ve noticed white spots on your tonsils. Maybe you've been looking in your mouth, trying to figure out what is causing your bad breath. If you've noticed little white flecks stuck to the back of your mouth on either side of your uvula (the dangling ball in the back of your mouth), you should go visit a dentist. These white specks are known as tonsil stones. They are calcified food, mucus, and bacteria clumps. While they are not uncommon, they need to be removed with care. French researchers discovered that around six percent of people have some degree of tonsil stone buildup. See a dentist or a doctor if you suffer from chronic dry mouth and bad breath. There are several causes of dry mouth induced bad breath. While dehydration is the primary cause, certain conditions, medications, and other systemic issues can cause dry mouth. Stuffy noses, diabetes, side-effects from antidepressants, antihistamines, and diuretics, radiotherapy, and Sjögren's syndrome can all cause dry mouth. Your dentist will point you in the direction of a physician for many of these tests, but can help identify possible causes of your dry mouth. | Use a portable toothbrush. Floss your teeth. Use Listerine or some other type of anti-bacterial mouthwash. Chew some sugar-free gum. Chew herbs like mint, parsley, basil, or wintergreen. Chew nuts and seeds. Drink water with lemon or lime. Use a portable Waterpik. Rinse your mouth with water. Ask someone else. Lick the inside of your wrist. Perform the spoon-scrape test. Get a Halimeter reading. Ask your dentist to perform a gas chromatography test. See a dentist if you experience chronic bad breath. Visit a dentist if you’ve noticed white spots on your tonsils. See a dentist or a doctor if you suffer from chronic dry mouth and bad breath. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Only-Move-One-Eye | How to Only Move One Eye | Before you can move only 1 eye, you'll need to learn how to cross your eyes. Roll your eyes around your sockets a few times to warm them up. Then, practice crossing your eyes by looking at the tip of your nose with both eyes. Or, hold a pen at arm's length in the center of your vision. Focus on the pen and slowly bring it to your face until you're cross-eyed. Once you've mastered crossing your eyes, you can try moving just 1 eye. Start by looking hard to the right with both eyes. Then, look at the tip of your nose with your right eye to bring it into the crossed eye position. You can use a pen to guide your gaze if you need. Once your eye is crossed, return to your initial position of looking to the right, which should cause your right eye to move on its own! | Warm up your face. Warming up your face will prepare your facial muscles for action. Some of these muscles coordinate eye motion, so by warming them up, you'll stand a better chance of moving one eye. To warm up: Massage your entire face lightly with your hands, rubbing in small circles. Pay special attention to the area around your eyes. Take a big, wide yawn. Open your eyes and mouth, and raise your eyebrows as high as you can. Now squeeze these features together tightly. Warm up your eyes. Now that your face muscles are warmed up, you can do the same for your eyes. Roll your eyes around your eye sockets a few times. Face forward, hold your neck still, and look hard to the left. Switch to the right. Then, keeping your neck and face in the same position, look up and down. Crossing your eyes is another great eye warmup and is useful for training one eye to move at a time. If you've never mastered this skill, the tips in the next step should help. Learn to cross your eyes, if necessary. Some of you may have crossed your eyes as part of your warmup, but don't worry if you haven't yet mastered this skill. With a little practice, you'll be a pro. Practice crossing your eyes by looking at the tip of your nose with both eyes. Slowly slide your gaze upwards to the bridge of your nose while looking inward. Hold a pen at arm's length directly in between both eyes. Focus on the pen and slowly draw it to your face until it is 2 – 4 inches (5.1 – 10.2 cm) away. At this distance, your eyes should cross. These techniques may use muscles that don't usually get much exercise, which can cause fatigue. When you get tired, take a break and try again. It may take you a little while, but you'll get it eventually! Check your form in a mirror. Cross your eyes in front of a mirror to see if you've mastered this technique. How do your eyes look? If you have any doubts, ask the opinion of a friend or family member. If you don't have a mirror or another person available to help check your form, snap a selfie. Being able to cross your eyes can make learning to move one eye at a time easier. Look hard to the left or right. Whichever direction you choose, hold this position for a few seconds. Bring your outward looking eye into the crossed position. If you're looking right you'll be moving your right eye, and if you're looking left you'll move your left. While holding your inward facing eye completely still, move the outward eye inward until it's in the crossed position. Give your moving eye a guide to follow. Hold your finger at arm's length off to the side and in front of your outward facing eye. Focus on the finger with that eye. Move your finger inward to the center of your nose, following it with your outward eye. Return to your initial position. Reverse this motion so the eye you moved returns to its starting position. For example, if you started looking hard to the left, you'll return to this position from the crossed position. Practice one side a few times to get the feel for it before exercising the opposite eye. Exercise the opposite eye. You know the drill by now. Since you have a feel for this maneuver, try it on the opposite side without a finger guide. If you have difficulty, go ahead and use your finger. Cross your eyes. Time to put all your eye crossing practice to work. Cross your eyes, using a pen or finger guide if you need to. Once crossed, hold this position for a few seconds. Take frequent breaks to prevent strain. Lure one eye away with a finger. Keep your eyes crossed. Now, position one of your pointer fingers in front of its same-side eye. For example, your right pointer finger should be in front of your right eye. Without moving the opposite-side eye, focus on the finger with the same-side eye. Slowly move the finger off to the side, following it with the same-side eye. It may help if you position the finger so only the same-side eye can see it. Try starting with your finger a little off to the side. Return to the crossed position and repeat. Bring it back home. Reverse the luring motion, returning the same-side eye to its original crossed position. To get this motion down, you may want to repeat it a few times with one eye before trying it on the opposite-side eye. Practice to master this skill. The more you perform this exercise, the easier it will become. Try it with each eye. Alternate back and forth. Try to move your eyes independently without a lure. If giving up the lure is hard at first, imagine that it's there. With practice, you'll be ready to trip out your friends with this trick. | Warm up your face. Warm up your eyes. Learn to cross your eyes, if necessary. Check your form in a mirror. Look hard to the left or right. Bring your outward looking eye into the crossed position. Return to your initial position. Exercise the opposite eye. Cross your eyes. Lure one eye away with a finger. Return to the crossed position and repeat. Practice to master this skill. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Get-Rid-of-an-Inferiority-Complex | How to Get Rid of an Inferiority Complex | To get rid of an inferiority complex, focus on your positive attributes, and remind yourself that negative thinking and labels are false. Additionally, take real, positive steps to build your confidence, like developing work-related skills, trying new hobbies, setting exercise goals, or saving for a dream vacation. You can also gain a sense of accomplishment and pride by volunteering to help others. Moreover, try to surround yourself with positive people who are accepting and non-judgmental to break down the false belief that others are critical of you. | Find the root of your inferiority complex. There are two kinds of inferiority complexes. The first is learned in childhood, while the second occurs when you are unable to meet goals you set for yourself. Both of types can vary in severity. An inferiority complex that comes from childhood can be caused by neglect, overly critical or shaming parents, bullying, exposure to negative messages in the media, or not getting to experience positive social experiences. An inferiority complex developed as an adult can occur when you feel that you aren't able to accomplish things you set out to do, or when you feel harassed by your family, partner, or coworkers. Both types of an inferiority complex are associated with low self-esteem and making unfavorable comparisons between yourself and others. Watch for the signs of an inferiority complex. Sometimes you may not realize that things you do result from your inferiority complex; however, the complex can affect how you think and act. You may find yourself getting into relationships expecting the other person to fill a void in you. You may feel an urge to hide your true feelings and to instead put on a false face to convince people you're better than you think you are. You may isolate yourself from others. You may develop compulsive behaviors like shopping, overeating, drinking, or collecting. You may try to control, blame, or harm other people. You may be unable to accept compliments. You may be easy to manipulate or may conform easily. You may experience feelings of anxiety, reluctance to trust others, low self-worth, and fear of rejection. Try to find the cause of your feelings. Inferiority complexes may come from something in your past. To help you move past it, you need to determine the root of your feelings. It may be a bad childhood experience, a traumatic event, or a combination of people putting you down over the years. Reflect on your past. Try to remember experiences that could have caused the inferiority complex. Some of these might be buried deep because of how painful they are. Determine who you feel inferior to. If you have an inferiority complex, then you feel inferior to someone else. Ask yourself who you feel inferior to. Try to be as specific as possible, or start broad and narrow it down. Do you feel inferior to attractive people? People with more money? Smarter people? Successful people? Try to go from one of those to a specific name of someone in your life. When you figure that out, ask yourself how those people or that person isn't superior to you. Can he play the piano like you? Does he have your work ethic? Your caring attitude? Your family values? Break down your complex. One way to start dealing with the complex is to break it down. Start with characteristics that you feel inferior about. Look at them logically, not emotionally. Are your perceived flaws that bad? If the answer is still yes, remember that everyone has traits they would like to improve. What you see as a flaw may not seem like one to someone else. No one may notice your large chin although it's all you ever think about. You may think your baldness is a flaw, while some people find bald men sexy. Your perceived flaws do not control you. Even if you have a large chin, are overweight, or are bald, that doesn't define you. That's one small part of you. It only controls and defines you if you let it. Understand that we're all inferior in some ways. Everyone on earth is inferior to someone in some way. There isn't one person who has everything. Although someone may be the most beautiful and rich person, there will be someone with more intelligence or more compassion. On the flip side, everyone is superior to others in some way. Everyone is a different combination of positive attributes and flaws. Understanding this concept can help you start to view yourself more realistically. Since everyone has flaws, this is not a reason for a complex. The over-exaggeration of your flaw and the self-consciousness you develop because of it causes the feelings of inferiority. The inferiority is made up and in your head. Stop wanting to be like others. Inferiority complexes are rooted in the desire to be just like someone else. They make you want to be someone you're not. If you try to be someone else, you aren't being true to yourself. This doesn't include limiting yourself and trying new things. Just don't try to be someone else. Be you. You can get inspired by people. That means you look up to them and take some of their traits and put them into yourself. But the important difference is you are still you. You aren't trying to copy someone else or be someone else. You are using them as a positive guide while still being true to yourself. Try not to worry about what others think. Inferiority complexes arise from our constant concern about what others think about us. We oftentimes find problems with ourselves based on if others find us good enough. This isn't healthy thinking. Stop worrying so much about what others think about you. Only your opinion matters. Sometimes these judgments are real, but many times they are imaginary. Focus on making yourself happy without worrying about what others think. And try not to make up people's judgments. Remind yourself that you have no way of knowing what someone is really thinking or what is really happening in their life. Even if you think someone has it all, they may have the same insecurities as you do. Focus on your strengths and successes, not on what others might think of you. Focus on your positive attributes. When you feel inferior, you put more emphasis on what you don't have instead of what you do have. Everyone has positive qualities. Take an honest look at yourself and your life. Make a list of good things. It could be something like, "I have a good job with lots of room to grow" or "I have nice teeth." When you're done, think about how many good things you have going for you. It might not make you better than someone else, but you don't have to be better. You just have to be happy being you and be thankful for what you have. Include things from all facets of your life. Maybe you think you're overweight, but you have nice legs, nice feet, or nice hands. Maybe you have a great family, smart children, a good education, drive a nice car, or can crochet well. There are a lot of things that make us up. Try to find the positive things and focus on that. Stop comparing yourself to everyone else. People with inferiority complexes spend too much time comparing themselves to everyone around them. If you do this, you will come up with a never ending list of ways people are better than you. You can't compare yourself to someone else, because everything about your life and circumstances are different - from the family you were born in, to your genetics, to your opportunities. Don't think in absolutes. Inferiority complexes make us think that if one thing could change, our lives would be great. We might think, "If only I was 20 pounds smaller, my life would be great" or "If only I had a better job, I'd be happier." If you achieve these things, they will only provide temporary happiness, because deep down you will still be insecure. Material and superficial things, which many inferiority complexes thrive on, won't magically fix the problem. Try to retrain your thinking from "If only...then I'd be happy." It can lead to more disappointment when it doesn't make you happy. Focusing on the strengths, values, and positive assets you possess now is much more fulfilling. Learning to accept these things can help you move towards a happier life. Stop negative talk. Every day, you reinforce your inferiority complex by speaking negatively about yourself. When you say things like, "He doesn't like me because I'm ugly" or "I won't get this job because I'm not smart enough," you are bringing yourself down and writing more negative, untrue beliefs onto your brain. When you find yourself saying something negative, stop it and say something positive instead. You don't have to lie to yourself and say, "He will love me because I'm the most beautiful." Instead, speak about yourself in positive, realistic terms. "I am attractive/worthy of someone's affections. I am a kind, generous person who people want to be friends with." Reroute negative self-talk and beliefs by correcting yourself when you do it. For example, if you think, "I'm the fattest girl here," change that thought to, "I look great in this new dress, and everyone is going to see how stylish I am." Don't compare yourself to unrealistic goals. For example, if you start to negative self-talk because you only ran three miles instead of the five you planned, switch it around. Say, "Wow, I've just started running and made it through three miles. That's great progress. I'll keep working until I hit my goal." By noticing and changing your negative self-talk, you can build your confidence and self-esteem. Build self-confidence. As you work through your inferiority complex, you need to start building self-confidence. Start by fixing your mental image of yourself. Inferiority complexes are based on false ideas about ourselves. Try to remind yourself that this image is false and doesn't portray the reality. Remove labels you have attached to yourself. Don't think of yourself as stupid, ugly, unsuccessful, a failure, or anything else. Refuse to use them when you think about yourself. Don't limit your social interactions. Inferiority complexes can result in you becoming withdrawn, anti-social, and shy. People with these complexes sometimes fear exposing themselves and opening up. You need to push yourself to interact with people. These feelings of inferiority are in your mind. The more you socialize with other people, the more you'll understand that people aren't judging you, making fun of you, or putting you down. You can learn to be comfortable and confident around people. Surround yourself with positive people. The people we associate with can have a significant impact on our self-esteem. If you spend your time with negative people who are constantly criticizing, analyzing, and judging others, it will start to affect you. Instead, spend your time with people who are positive. Look for people who accept and like people without judgment. Surrounding yourself with people who don't judge you can help you accept yourself. Although your confidence should come from yourself, it is helpful to be friends with people who accept you. This helps break down the false notion that everyone judges and criticizes you. Continue working on yourself. One way to beat the feelings of inferiority is to continuously improve yourself. This can include anything. Work on developing work-related skills, try a new hobby, work on improving a current hobby, set an exercise goal, or start saving for that dream vacation. Work on making your life better and worthwhile. This will help lessen your feelings of inferiority, because it's hard to feel inferior when you're accomplishing your goals. Volunteer. One way to help you get a reality check is to get out and help other people and your community. Whether you are helping at a soup kitchen or an animal hospital, this can help you see the reality of your situation. You don't have it as bad as you think you do. Volunteering can help give you a sense of accomplishment and pride. This can help you feel less inferior because you are giving back to your community. It also helps you stop feeling low and feeling like a burden. Confront your biggest fears. Do you think people will stare at you or make comments? These are all valid worries but do bear in mind - everyone is different. Any comments you receive are invalid and must be ignored at all costs. It's absolutely certain there is something they think is wrong with them, too. | Find the root of your inferiority complex. Watch for the signs of an inferiority complex. Try to find the cause of your feelings. Determine who you feel inferior to. Break down your complex. Understand that we're all inferior in some ways. Stop wanting to be like others. Try not to worry about what others think. Focus on your positive attributes. Stop comparing yourself to everyone else. Don't think in absolutes. Stop negative talk. Build self-confidence. Don't limit your social interactions. Surround yourself with positive people. Continue working on yourself. Volunteer. Confront your biggest fears. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Market-Your-Catering-Business | How to Market Your Catering Business | The key to marketing your catering business is looking professional and tapping into existing markets. Hire someone to design an eye-catching logo if you haven't already, which will go on all of your marketing materials. You should also get high quality photos of your food for your website, brochures, and other materials. Design a clean and professional-looking website, and start social media pages for your business, where you can promote your services and engage with potential customers. Reserve a booth at a bridal fair to attract customers. You can also contact local event organizers and ask to submit some food samples. Consider starting a loyalty program to encourage your customers to recommend you to their friends and family. | Do your research. Market research is the first essential step in marketing. Hire a marketing consultant to find out the following information, if you do not have the time or skill to search your local area: Find out who your competition is. You should get sample menus and booking information from all local caterers. Categorize them by price point and menus to see who will offer similar products. Research the major functions in the area. You should request a list of events from popular venues so you know who to contact to give quotes and samples of your cuisine. Research possible partnerships with other event services. Your ability to build relationships in the industry will improve your chances of success, so learn about event planners, event rental agencies, photographers and more. Set a marketing budget. For people without a business education, it may seem like a waste of money to spend thousands of dollars on marketing in the first few years of your business; however, breaking into a new area requires name brand recognition as well as good food. Choose a good name. Decide on something memorable that quickly identifies you as a catering service. Consider how well the name will catch on or how easy it will be to search for online. Create an exceptional sample menu. You will need to invite clients to your business to sample food and attend fairs where they will try it. Your menu should be versatile, original and cost effective to produce. Invest in photography. Hire a professional photographer to take photos of the food, the company catering an event and you creating signature dishes. You will need high quality photos for brochures, websites and handouts. Create signage. Your business location should have a large, catchy sign that caters to people in your area. Hire a graphic designer to create your logo, sign, business cards, van decals and flyers, so you can begin building a brand image. Create a website. The website is the first place people will go to find out information about you. Invest in excellent web programming, with scheduling features for tastings and a process for starting quotes for events. Create an online following. Developing an online presence can help you to show up in the first results on search engines. If you have employees that are able to help you update your accounts, you can quickly garner a following that can translate into high brand recognition. Sign up for 1 to 2 social media accounts. Only sign up for accounts that you will update regularly. For most businesses, Facebook, Pinterest and Twitter work well. Pinterest allows you to post a visually attractive bulletin board that can be filled with your own website content and recipes or event ideas from other sources. Update your Google and other online directory information regularly. You should ensure that you have the correct address, a description of the business and photos that appear on Google's search functions. Try pay-per-click marketing to increase your presence on search engines. Try Google AdWords and Microsoft AdCenter. Choose keywords like the city name, "catering" and "event planning" to begin with and refine them according to what works best. Start a blog or video blog. You can post on WordPress, on your own website, on YouTube or on Vimeo. Link these accounts regularly with other social media accounts. Post information about recent events, including pictures of your work and reviews. Then, consider doing video cooking tutorials to attract more people to your website. Reserve booths at bridal fairs. Most medium to large-sized towns have several bridal fairs each fall and winter. Pay for a booth where you will serve samples to potential brides, grooms and their families. Call local event organizers to ask to submit some samples and a quote. Make sure to call up to 1 year in advance of the event. If it is too early, schedule a time to meet with them when they are planning on choosing their caterer. This will require some telesales. If you have not done cold calling before, practice selling your product with employees and friends. You will need an elevator pitch about your company, a description of services and a friendly, conversational tone. Create a loyalty program. Give referral bonuses to people who recommend you to others. Give discounts to returning customers that help the companies and events choose you each year. Contact corporations in the area. Many companies hire caterers for training events, corporate mixers, conferences and large meetings. Develop a versatile product to offer them and give incentives to help them try you out. Incentives do not have to be discounts. You can also go with "value added" benefits, such as adding a free appetizer or some wine. These incentives help to increase value by providing more rather than less. Contact local drug company representatives. These salespeople often hire catering companies to provide food for breakfast or luncheon meetings. You can earn regular work with a mutually beneficial partnership. Become part of a local business or volunteer organization. Get out and meet with people in the community. Volunteer your time to handle event organization for a charity, and you may find your relationships with other business people will lead to more high-profile catering opportunities. Review your marketing efforts quarterly. Refine what you do to repeat things that work well and to cut out campaigns that do not seem to be working. Online marketing can take at least a year to become lucrative, so try to do this yourself or recruit an employee to help you. | Do your research. Set a marketing budget. Choose a good name. Create an exceptional sample menu. Invest in photography. Create signage. Create a website. Create an online following. Reserve booths at bridal fairs. Call local event organizers to ask to submit some samples and a quote. Create a loyalty program. Contact corporations in the area. Contact local drug company representatives. Become part of a local business or volunteer organization. Review your marketing efforts quarterly. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Install-a-Faucet | How to Install a Faucet | To install a faucet, start by shutting off the water valves under the sink and disconnecting the hot and cold supply lines with a wrench. Then, remove the mounting nuts on the bottom of the old faucet, and take the old faucet off. Next, wrap plumber's tape around the threads on the new faucet, and apply silicone sealant around the sink holes. Finally, insert the new faucet, reattach the mounting nuts to lock it in place, and turn the water back on. | Gather the right materials. Special plumber's tools aren't required, just a few basic tools you may already own. Have a small bucket to catch residue water and a plastic drop sheet to keep the bottom of the cabinet dry in case of a leak or spill. Choose a faucet from the hardware store, and follow the manufacturer's instructions. A basin wrench is useful for this, but standard wrenches or pliers will work just fine. You will also need clear silicon caulk or plumber's putty and some plumber's tape. Turn off the water. The shut off valves are located below the sink. They are usually oval-shaped and found somewhere below the supply line for the tap. Turn them (very gently) clockwise to shut off the water. If a valve seems excessively tight, it may need to be replaced. Check the condition of the supply lines for leaks or obvious wear. You may want to replace these at the same time you replace the faucet. Most new faucets come fully assembled, some even with inlet hoses attached. Check with the clerk at the hardware store to be sure. Disconnect the lines. Disconnect the supply lines using a standard wrench. There should be two: one for the hot water and one for the cold. Remove the nuts. Next, remove the mounting nuts from the bottom of the old faucet. These are usually under the sink and directly below where the faucet meets the counter. There should be between 1-3 nuts and they will usually look less like a traditional nut and more like a target or clock. A basin wrench will make this job much easier. Clean the area. Remove any old caulk or putty around the holes in the sink. This is most easily done with a putty knife. Clean the area thoroughly and wipe dry. Prepare for the new faucet. Wrap thread seal tape around the threads of the faucet where they connect to the lines. Apply silicone sealant around the sink holes and where the new deck plate will be. Insert the faucet. Press the faucet down through the sink holes. Align the faucet, using the wall or the back of the sink to keep the faucet straight. Once this is done, wipe away any excess residue silicone. Ensure the inside of basin cabinet is dry. Lock it in place. Hand-tighten the mounting nuts with the thicker side up. Use pliers if necessary to stop leaks, but do not over-tighten. It may be handy to follow the specific instructions from the manufacturer for your new faucet, as where and how many of these nuts need to be placed will vary between faucet styles. Reattach the supply lines with the adjustable wrench. Plumber's tape can also be handy here. Look for a label on the lines attached to the faucet, since you want to connect the correct temperatures (hot handle to hot water, etc). Test your connections. Turn the water on slowly and check for leaks. If you see any water dripping, turn off the valves and tighten slightly. Repeat if necessary. When everything works the way it should, you're done! | Gather the right materials. Turn off the water. Disconnect the lines. Remove the nuts. Clean the area. Prepare for the new faucet. Insert the faucet. Lock it in place. Reattach the supply lines with the adjustable wrench. Test your connections. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Build-a-Model-Bridge-out-of-Skewers | How to Build a Model Bridge out of Skewers | If you want to build a model bridge, wooden skewers are a great material to work with. Start by designing your bridge and sketching it out on paper or with a computer program. When you're ready to start building, construct the trusses, or the support walls, first. You'll need at least 2 skewers for the top and bottom horizontal pieces, and at least 4 for the diagonal braces that connect the top and bottom. Glue or tie your truss skewers together, then construct the bridge deck by laying out several skewers and connecting the trusses to them. | Decide on what type of bridge you want to build. Follow a common bridge design style, like a beam or truss design—or come up with your own. A truss bridge uses horizontal and diagonal pieces to create sturdy structures for each side of the bridge. This is the most common and popular style of model bridge to build. A beam bridge is a simple structure that uses a horizontal beam placed across an empty space, sometimes with supporting “legs” underneath it. You might choose a design based on what you'll use the bridge for. Does it need to hold weight? Does it need to span a certain length of space in a model display or other project? Note that wooden skewers are better suited to a design with straight lines rather than an arch design. Sketch out your design on paper. Use a pencil and paper to sketch out the design of your bridge, which will help you determine the scope of the project and how many skewers you will need. Or, design your bridge using a computer program or mobile app. You may also find ready-made designs or templates for a model bridge online or in a simple engineering book. Use graph paper to assist you in making easy measurements and drawing straight lines. If you don't have graph paper, use a ruler to help create the lines. Draw your bridge design to scale (meaning with the same lengths you will use for the actual skewers) so that you can easily lay your skewers across your design to prepare for assembly later. If using digital software, print out your design to do this if possible. Try drawing or virtually designing your bridge design from a couple different angles to help you visualize each part of it. You can create a side view as well as an end view of the bridge. Lay out your skewers and cut them to size. Place your wooden skewers out on top of your sketch to find the lengths you'll need. Cut any of the skewers down to size using craft shears or a craft knife. Note that you may have to use several skewers attached together for longer sections, or to add strength to any given piece. Plan to have a large quantity of skewers to be prepared. If you don't have access to craft shears or another tool that is sharp and durable enough to safely cut through the wooden skewers, you can use a pair of regular scissors to score a skewer where you want to cut it and then break it by hand along the score. Be careful of the sharp ends of skewers, especially if they fly out when cut. Avert your eyes away from the skewers when cutting, or wear safety goggles. Choose glue or string for assembly. Decide if you'd like to use wood glue or string to connect the skewers for your bridge design. If you use glue, make sure it is wood glue that will dry clear if you don't want it to show. Apply glue to skewers in small dots to avoid excess glue oozing out when you press skewers together. Try using a q-tip or toothpick to help apply small amounts of glue. If you use string, make sure you have enough to wrap around each joint where skewers connect in your design. Note that you may also want or need wood glue to increase strength or make it easier to hold skewers together before wrapping with string. Build trusses first. Lay out the skewers for one truss (the support “wall” on either side of the bridge) flat on a table or other sturdy surface. You will need at least two skewers for the top and bottom “cords,” which are the horizontal pieces, and at least four for the diagonal “braces” that connect top and bottom cords. Form triangles with the brace pieces by placing them at alternating angles, with each point connecting to the top or bottom cord. The number and exact positioning you use will depend on your specific design. For this and other parts of your bridge design, you may want to glue or tie several skewers together for each section to strengthen it. You can hold skewers together with binder clips to strengthen the bind if you are using glue to attach them. Remember that you need to construct two trusses for your bridge. Once you've laid out the pieces for the first truss, do the same with another set of skewers for the other side of the bridge. If you are building a simple beam bridge, you will not need trusses and can skip this step. Glue or tie truss skewers together. Use glue or string to attach each skewer you've laid out for one truss. Apply glue or string at every point where one skewer or bunch of skewers meets another. Once you are done with all the pieces of one truss, glue or tie the pieces of the second truss. Leave the two trusses laying separate from each other and flat on the table for now. If you're using glue, you may want to let it dry overnight or for several hours after application, especially if you plan to have your bridge hold weight. If you are building a simple beam bridge, you will not need trusses and can skip this step. Construct the bridge deck. Build the deck where one would walk or drive a vehicle on a full-size bridge. Lay out at least two horizontal pieces as deck beams that will connect the two trusses together at the bottom of either end. It may help to add several deck beams that connect the two trusses to lend support. You can connect these at the same place where each brace attaches to the bottom cord. For now, simply lay them down between your two assembled trusses to prepare for assembly. Once you have at least two deck beams in place, you can fill in between the beams entirely with skewers to make one even, flat surface. Or, you can later make a more solid deck out of a piece of cardboard, wood, or other flat material if you like. If you're using glue to connect pieces of the deck, allow it to dry for several hours or overnight, especially if you plan for the bridge to hold weight. Assemble the trusses and deck. Gently tape or temporarily fasten each assembled truss to an object with a flat, vertical side (like boxes or books) to help keep the trusses upright and perpendicular to the table. Then glue or tie your deck skewers to the trusses before removing the boxes or books. For best results, wait till glue fully dries if you're using it to connect your bridge structures. Then leave the completed structure to dry for several more hours or overnight. If your bridge design includes top beams, connect them across the two top cords of your trusses once you have connected them to the deck. Your design does not need top beams, but they may help hold the structure together with more stability. Use your bridge to test weight capacity. Try testing the weight that your bridge model will hold, either for fun or a competition. You can either place objects or weights directly on the bridge deck or suspended underneath it with a load bucket. Make sure the two ends of your bridge are balanced across two stable surfaces to test its ability to hold weight. If you want to use a load bucket to test weight, try attaching a film canister below your bridge with a piece of string and a paper clip. Then fill the canister with metal washers, coins, or other weights one by one until the bridge can no longer sustain the weight and breaks. Make your bridge stable for use with small vehicles. Send small battery cars, trains, or other model vehicles across your bridge deck as part of a larger course or just for fun on its own. You may want to reinforce or make sure your bridge deck has a smooth, complete surface that your vehicle can drive up and over. Secure the bridge to whatever surface or surfaces you want to have it on so that it stays put for use with your model vehicles. Display your bridge in a model display. Add your bridge to a larger model display or village in any way you wish. Try painting your bridge to match other pieces of your display or make it more authentic. Use paint with a small paintbrush or spray on spray paint to easily add color to your model. Display figurines or model vehicles on the deck of your bridge by gluing them in place or simply setting them on the surface. You may want to design your bridge to fit the scale of other model structures or figurines ahead of time if you plan to display it this way. Add other decorative elements to your bridge if you wish with string, metal ornaments, wood, or other items to make your bridge more realistic, colorful, or fitting with any theme you have for your display. | Decide on what type of bridge you want to build. Sketch out your design on paper. Lay out your skewers and cut them to size. Choose glue or string for assembly. Build trusses first. Glue or tie truss skewers together. Construct the bridge deck. Assemble the trusses and deck. Use your bridge to test weight capacity. Make your bridge stable for use with small vehicles. Display your bridge in a model display. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Clean-Brick-Wall | How to Clean Brick Wall | To clean a brick wall, start by brushing the walls with a broom to dislodge dust, dirt and debris. Make sure to reach all the way to the top, and into any corners or crevices. Then, turn the water hose on full blast and hose off any remaining dirt. To avoid spreading dirt around, work from one end of the wall to the other. Finally, wipe the wall with a sponge while it's still wet to remove any hard water stains or deposits. | Brush the wall with a broom. Use the bristles of the broom to dislodge loose dust, dirt, cobwebs and other debris that's built up on the surface of the brick. Be sure to reach up to the top of the wall and into any corners or crevices that might be hiding dirt. Brush horizontally away from yourself rather than straight down to keep from covering yourself in dust. An occasional sweeping will usually be enough to keep brick walls looking good between more detailed cleanings. Hose down the wall from top to bottom. Turn the hose on full blast and spray off any remaining dirt. Work from one end of the wall to the other, top to bottom, to avoid spreading dirt around. Once the wall dries, it will regain its original quality of finish. Cover the nozzle of the hose partially with one thumb to get more out of your water pressure. Wipe the wall with a sponge while it's still wet to clear away hard water stains and mineral deposits. Treat weathered brick with a special sealant. If your brick wall is crumbling or shows signs of extensive wear, you can protect it using a clear silane-based sealing product. Brush a thin coating of sealant over the entire wall surface and give it ample time to dry. The sealant will help fill in weak spots, making the brick more resilient to damage and inclement weather conditions. Choose a day with clear, dry weather in the forecast to apply brick sealant. Precipitation and humidity can result in less efficient coverage. Don't apply a sealant until the brick is totally clean, or you may end up locking in the dirt for good. Combine water and ammonia in a large bucket. Fill the bucket three-quarters of the way full with warm water, then add half a cup of ammonia. The ammonia will help loosen stuck-on dirt and stains, allowing them to be scrubbed away with ease. Be sure to take the proper safety precautions when working with ammonia. Pull on a pair of rubber dish gloves and a facemask to protect you from harsh fumes. Dip a long-handled brush in the ammonia solution. Use the brush head to stir the solution and soak the bristles in preparation for scrubbing. Shake off the excess solution into the bucket. Pick a brush with natural or synthetic bristles. Wire brushes can cause scratches when used on brick or leave behind small flakes of metal that will eventually rust. Ammonia gives off noxious vapors, so stand clear of the bucket while mixing and dipping. Scour the dirty areas of the wall. Run the brush across the surface of the wall using short, forceful motions to break down stubborn residue and discoloration. Make sure you scrub the entire wall to prevent anyone section from coming out with a different degree of coloration. Continue scrubbing until the wall is completely clean, adding fresh solution to the brush every so often. If you're having difficulty removing dirt, try scrubbing the spot from different angles. You'll need to apply quite a bit of pressure to penetrate into the cracks and crevices of the brick. Spray the wall with clean water. Hose off the brick to rinse away all traces of the ammonia solution, along with whatever debris it helped dissolve. Let the wall drip dry. Try to get in the habit of scrubbing exterior walls with ammonia once or twice a year, or more frequently if you live in an area with a lot of dust or rainfall. If you have a power washer or a hose with a separate pressure nozzle, you can use it on a low pressure setting to knock out dirt that has settled down deep. Ammonia may damage the brick if left to soak into the wall. Mix together water and bleach in a spray bottle. Use approximately 1 part bleach for every 6 parts water to achieve the right concentration. Shake the bottle to make sure the solution is properly mixed. Keep the spray bottle pointed away from your face at all times. Caution should be observed when handling bleach. It will be a good idea to wear gloves, a facemask and eye protection to defend against potential splatters. Dense buildup caused by moss or mold growth is typically resistant to gentler cleaning methods and will require a more intensive strategy. Spray the wall with the bleach solution. Apply the mixture liberally to the areas of the wall where moss or mold growth is the thickest. Bleach is a potent disinfectant and is mildly caustic—not only will it kill whatever is growing on the brick, it will also eat away at its hold on the wall. Test the bleach solution on an out-of-the-way spot on the wall to confirm that it won't ruin the appearance of your brick. Wet the wall down thoroughly before misting it with bleach. This will prevent the bleach from soaking into the brick, where it can create structural weakness. Be careful to avoid inhaling fumes or contacting bleach with your bare skin. Allow the solution to sit overnight. For best results, give the bleach 8-12 hours to take effect. As it sits on the wall, it will choke the growth of moss or mold and make it easier to remove without the need for a lot of tedious scrubbing. The longer you allow the bleach to remain on the wall, the better job it will do of releasing sludgy grime. Wash off the wall with a hose. Once it's been treated with bleach, the moss and mold should simply rinse off under a forceful stream of water. Pick off any remaining bits by hand using a plastic spatula or scraper, then rinse again. Allow the wall to dry and apply a silane-based sealant to safeguard against future growth if desired. Dust and spray your brick wall regularly after deep-cleaning it with bleach to keep moss and mold from returning. Wait for 7 days after making repairs to use a pressure washer. If your wall has any cracks or chips in the mortar, repair it first, and then wait for 7 days to use a pressure washer on it. This will help to ensure that you do not damage the repairs you just made. Do not wait more than 30 days after making repairs to a wall to clean it. By this time, the stains and dirt will be harder to remove. Spray the wall with a low-pressure hose to saturate it. Spray the wall all over to saturate it with water. The maximum pressure of your hose should not be above 700 psi. Too much pressure may damage the brick wall, especially if you recently repaired it. Add detergent according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Use a brick-safe detergent in your pressure washer. Check your pressure washer's instruction manual to find out how to properly add the detergent. In some cases, you may be able to apply the solution directly to the wall without diluting it. Check the instruction manual to be sure. Spray on the detergent solution and leave it on for up to 15 minutes. Saturate the wall again using the detergent solution in your pressure washer. Use a side-to-side sweeping motion to fully saturate the brick wall. Let the detergent sit on the wall for up to 15 minutes before rinsing it off, but don't let the detergent dry on the wall. Make sure to keep the pressure washer on low pressure while you do this. Spot clean any tough stains with a scrub brush. If you notice and tough stains or grimy spots on the wall after saturating it with the detergent, use a scrub brush to work on them. Apply medium pressure to the brush and rub it back and forth over the stain. You may need to apply a little extra detergent solution to these areas to make it easier to remove the dirt. Rinse the detergent and dirt off of the wall. After time is up and you have spot cleaned the wall, spray the wall with water. Start spraying at the top and move downwards. Make sure to remove all of the detergent. Go over the wall several times to ensure that the detergent is all gone. You may want to focus on a small area at a time rather than spraying the wall all over. | Brush the wall with a broom. Hose down the wall from top to bottom. Treat weathered brick with a special sealant. Combine water and ammonia in a large bucket. Dip a long-handled brush in the ammonia solution. Scour the dirty areas of the wall. Spray the wall with clean water. Mix together water and bleach in a spray bottle. Spray the wall with the bleach solution. Allow the solution to sit overnight. Wash off the wall with a hose. Wait for 7 days after making repairs to use a pressure washer. Spray the wall with a low-pressure hose to saturate it. Add detergent according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Spray on the detergent solution and leave it on for up to 15 minutes. Spot clean any tough stains with a scrub brush. Rinse the detergent and dirt off of the wall. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Clean-a-Fireplace | How to Clean a Fireplace | If you need to clean your fireplace, start by removing any debris, like old pieces of wood, and laying a tarp on the ground to prevent soot contamination. Next, use your small brush to sweep the dust and soot from inside the chimney. To begin cleaning the fireplace, apply an all-purpose cleaning spray until all surfaces are wet before using an abrasive brush and a cleaner to scrub the fireplace. Leave the cleaner on the fireplace for 15 minutes, then scrub away all remaining stains with a cloth and warm water. | Use a store-bought cleaner for an easy solution. You can use conventional household cleaners on your fireplace. There are also cleaners you can purchase specifically made for fireplaces. Ammonia can work well as a cleaner, but may be harsher on brick fireplaces. Oven cleaner can be applied to a fireplace. It can work well if there's a lot of built up burnt material in your fireplace. Browse your local hardware store for cleaners made for fireplaces. These may be less harsh on your fireplace. Fireplace cleaners, like Quick n' Brite for example, may need to be diluted prior to use, so be sure to read instructions. Make a homemade cleaner for a natural option. If you're adverse to chemicals, a homemade cleaner can work. You can usually make a cleaner with items from your kitchen. You can combine 2 tablespoons (30 mL) of cream of tartar with water to make a quality homemade cleaner. You can also mix equal parts vinegar and water for a cleaner. Put the cleaner in a spray bottle to apply it. Mix 2–3 tablespoons (30–44 mL) of dish soap with ½ cup (260 g) of baking soda. Work this into a paste for a quality homemade cleaner. Make sure you have an all-purpose cleaning spray. Before applying any cleaner, you apply an all-purpose cleaner to the fireplace. Something like 409 spray, which you can purchase at most supermarkets, would work well here. If you're using a store bought cleaner, make sure the cleaner you choose does not interact negatively with your all purpose spray. Get a small brush to sweep the fireplace. You will sweep the fireplace quickly before scrubbing, so grab a small broom. You can find small brooms at most department stores. Check the pet aisle. Oftentimes, small brooms and dustpans are sold to clean up cat litter. This could work for cleaning a fireplace. Get an abrasive tool. This is for scrubbing debris out of your fireplace. A scrub brush or an abrasive sponge would work for a fireplace. You can buy such products at most supermarkets and department stores. Protect the surrounding area. Wear an apron, or wear old clothes, to protect yourself from dirt or debris. Lay a tarp down over the floor around the fireplace. Cleaning the fireplace is a dirty task, and soot can be difficult to get out of clothes or carpeting. If you don't have a tarp, try using old clothes or towels you no longer use. Make sure it's material you are not attached to, as it will likely get ruined during the cleaning process. Remove debris from the fireplace. Any old wood, and other debris should be discarded prior to cleaning. Put on some cleaning gloves and get to work removing debris. If there is any wood that is salvageable, set this aside for later. You may have to use a vacuum to suck up very loose debris. Sweep the chimney from top to bottom. Take your small brush and use this to sweep. Thoroughly sweep any dust or ashes from inside the chimney. It can help to sprinkle coffee grounds over the ashes first. This can give them a more solid texture, preventing ashes from scattering in the air. Sweep off the doorway to the chimney as well, as this is likely dusted with ash as well. Spray down the fireplace. The all-purpose cleaner goes on first. Spritz the inside of the fireplace with a light layer of this cleaner. The purpose of this is to wet the area, which begins the cleaning process. Make sure to get the entire inside of the fireplace wet before proceeding. Use your abrasive tool dipped in cleaner to clean the fireplace. Get the cleaner you're using, whether it's handmade or store-bought. Dip your abrasive tool in the cleaner and start scrubbing. Do not scrub too hard, as your brush is already abrasive. Use circular motions to apply until the fireplace is completely covered. If there are hard-to-reach cracks in your fireplace, use a toothbrush to clean these areas. Let the cleaner sit on the fireplace. If the chimney only has minor stains, 10 to 15 minutes should be sufficient. If the stains are very bad, wait at least 30 minutes. If you're using a store-bought cleaner, read the label carefully. There may be specific instructions on how long to let the cleaner sit. Remove the buildup from the fireplace. The cleaner should loosen up dirt and debris from the fireplace. You should now be able to easily remove them with some scrubbing and cleaning. Wet a cloth under warm or hot tap water. Buff the stain away. It should come off fairly easily. Usually, after this the process will be complete. However, for very stained or damaged fireplaces, you may need to do a second cleaning, or even a third. Dampen a cloth with water. Ensure your fireplace is off and cool to the touch before beginning. Choose a rag that you don't mind throwing out after cleaning the glass. You could use paper towels in place of a cloth, if desired. Dip the damp cloth in ash. Use the ash from the fireplace itself. Make sure the cloth is coated in ash, as this will actually help remove soot from the glass, even if it sounds counterintuitive. Scrub the glass with the cloth. Put some elbow grease into it! You'll need to scrub pretty hard to get the glass clean. Keep working until all the soot or discoloration is removed. Wipe the glass with a microfiber towel. Once the glass is clean, remove any streaks or remaining residue with a clean microfiber towel. Go for dry wood. Dry wood burns much more efficiently than other types of wood. It also tends to produce less smoke, cutting down on staining within the fireplace. Make sure any wood you buy is dry or seasoned. If the wood is not labeled, ask someone at the place where you're purchasing the wood. Vacuum the fireplace on a weekly basis. This will cut back on the process of sweeping and removing debris when you clean the fireplace. However, take certain precautions. Make sure any embers have had at least 12 hours to dry before vacuuming. Use water to drown a fire for emergencies only. Fires in a fireplace should burn out naturally. The ashes will turn into a paste if wet, which is very difficult to clean. Only use water in the event of an emergency. Call emergency services immediately if a fire starts in your home. Even if you think you have a fire under control, professional firefighters should examine your home to make sure the fire is completely out. | Use a store-bought cleaner for an easy solution. Make a homemade cleaner for a natural option. Make sure you have an all-purpose cleaning spray. Get a small brush to sweep the fireplace. Get an abrasive tool. Protect the surrounding area. Remove debris from the fireplace. Sweep the chimney from top to bottom. Spray down the fireplace. Use your abrasive tool dipped in cleaner to clean the fireplace. Let the cleaner sit on the fireplace. Remove the buildup from the fireplace. Dampen a cloth with water. Dip the damp cloth in ash. Scrub the glass with the cloth. Wipe the glass with a microfiber towel. Go for dry wood. Vacuum the fireplace on a weekly basis. Use water to drown a fire for emergencies only. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Make-Out-with-Your-Boyfriend-and-Have-Him-Love-It | How to Make Out with Your Boyfriend and Have Him Love It | To make out with your boyfriend and have him love it, try taking the initiative instead of waiting for him to make the first move. It might be scary at first, but it's perfectly fine to make eye contact and pull him closer to you. When he's close enough to kiss, pause for a moment to gently tease him, which will heighten his excitement and make him want you more. Once he pulls you towards him, start with soft, gentle kisses and gradually work up to using your tongue and French-kissing. Along with kissing, make sure to caress his body with your hands, since paying attention to his body is a great way to enhance his experience. You can even take breaks in between kissing to whisper sweet things, like “I want you,” which can be a huge turn-on. | Find a comfortable, safe, suitable place. Seriously. You won't be in the mood if you're in the parking lot of a Wendy's. Go down to a dark basement with only the glow of the television lighting your bodies or find a hidden cove in a park, where the thought of getting caught gets you in the mood even more. Even the back of a car will do in a pinch. Really, going wherever you need to go to to feel like making out will do the trick. You should both also be feeling comfortable. No stress, no pressure, no where to go, and ready to hook up. Soften your lips. To make your boyfriend love making out with you even more, soften your lips with balm, or just lick them. You can even do this fifteen minutes before you start to make out, so he is more excited and pays more attention to your lips. Just don't lay on the gloss too thick or he'll taste it when he's kissing you. If you're putting on thick or scented lip gloss, do it at least an hour or two before you plan to make out. Flirt. Let your boyfriend know that you're in the mood. Be playful, but bring him closer to you. Tease him by lightly pushing him, squeezing his shoulder, making cute jokes, or just by playing with your hair and making him want you even more. You can't just transition from hanging out to kissing -- you'll need to flirt a bit to get him in the mood first. Compliment your man a little while you're flirting. Let him know he looks good. Pull him closer to you. Let him know that he doesn't have all of the control. He'll be wowed that you took the initiative instead of waiting for him to make the first move. This will be a huge relief to most guys, who like to take a break from trying to take control of a situation. Grab him, give him a cute smile, and pull him closer until you've locked eyes and are touching bodies. Maintain eye contact as you pull him closer to you -- along with control. him. Tease Don't give it up too easily. Move in almost all the way and then let him meet you the last 10% of the go around. Pausing the action for just a second will make him stop, take stock of how excited he is, and want you even more. Then, wait for him to pull you closer and start with a soft, gentle kiss without getting too sloppy. As you get more comfortable, use a little tongue, until you're full-on French kissing. Don't jam your tongue into his mouth right away. At first, move just the tip of your tongue into his mouth, until you've both moved your tongues into each other's mouths and are gently moving them in a circular motion, or with one on top of the other. Explore his body. Once you really start kissing, you should move your hands around your man's body. Touch his shoulders, his chest, his waist, his neck, his arms, and any part of his body above the belt. And hey, as you get more comfortable, there's nothing wrong with putting your hands near his groin area to turn him on -- if you have a more intimate relationship. The important thing is to always be giving his body attention with your hands. You don't have to be frantic about it. Slowly explore his body with your hands as you move closer to him. Just remember: if all you and your boyfriend have done is kiss and you're not comfortable with doing more, then you don't have to run your hands all over his body or let him touch you everywhere. This may make him think that you're ready for something more. Gently bite or suck on his lips. If you're feeling adventurous and are comfortable enough with each other, then gently bite your boyfriend or suck on his lips. Remember to bite him very gently at first, and then gradually bite a little harder -- nothing will kill the mood faster than making your man bleed from the lip. Not every guy likes this move, so don't be discouraged if it turns out that this doesn't work for your man. But if he loves it, then he'll really love it. Whisper in his ear. Words are not overrated. Whispering in your boyfriend's ear in the middle of a makeout session will give him a pleasant tingling sensation near his ear and neck, and feeling your hot breath on his ear will make him want you even more. Besides, whispering is just plain sexy -- as long as you know what to say. Keep it simple. Just say something like, "I want you," "You're such a good kisser," or "You're so sexy" will do the trick. If he does something that drives you wild, you can say, "I love it when you..." Kiss his neck and earlobe. It's important to mix things up and not to just kiss, kiss, kiss on the lips. After you've kissed for a few minutes, make your way down to your boyfriend's earlobes and neck. Gently kiss his ears and neck, and if he responds well, you can nibble on them a bit too. If you can master biting just enough to leave a sensation, then your boyfriend will go wild if you can really nibble on his ears and neck. You can also kiss his neck and lick it a tiny bit, and then blow on it to make your man shiver. Play with his hair. The head is one of the most sensitive parts of the body, so don't ignore it. Run your hands through your boyfriend's hair, gently caress his strands, and continue to play with his hair as you're kissing or when you're taking breaks. Locking eyes while you play with his hair works great, too. Just gently caress his strands as you sift through them with your hands. Basically, you should always find something to do with your hands instead of keeping them on your lap, so if you need a break from exploring his body, touch his hair, and vice versa. Straddle him. Guys love it when you take control and straddle them in the middle of a makeout session. Before you do this, you should make sure that things are already hot and heavy, and that you're touching each other and sitting in a comfortable place, like a couch, or standing near a chair, so that you can comfortably straddle him without breaking up the action too much. Straddle him while you're kissing and put your arms around his neck. This is not recommended for a first makeout -- you should definitely be comfortable with your boyfriend and your expectations of him before you try this! Suck on his finger. If you and your boyfriend are really comfortable with each other, then don't be afraid to suck on his finger while you lock eyes, just for a second or two. This innuendo will be all you need to really turn your boyfriend on, and to show that you're having fun and comfortable enough with yourself to try something new and a little adventurous. Don't overdo this move. Just once per makeout session will suffice. Keep mixing things up. Whatever you're doing, just remember to mix it up from time to time. Don't keep straddling your boyfriend, kissing his neck, whispering in his ear, or doing whatever it is you like to do. You'll need to switch things up, from the position of your body, to the style of your kisses. You can kiss him just on the lips, French kiss him, kiss him while gently nibbling his lip, kiss other parts of his body, or do all of the above, as long as you keep things fresh. Don't get stuck just French kissing without moving your arms or changing positions. That can get old fast. Let him know how much you liked it. Don't be afraid to smile afterwards and show him that you enjoyed the make-out session. Gently kiss him on the lips, stroke his hair, or just tell him how much you like him afterwards, so he feels confident and knows that you really like hooking up with him. You don't have to be too modest, or pretend the makeout didn't happen. In fact, it's hot to acknowledge it. Give him a playful smile and say, "That was fun." | Find a comfortable, safe, suitable place. Soften your lips. Flirt. Pull him closer to you. him. Explore his body. Gently bite or suck on his lips. Whisper in his ear. Kiss his neck and earlobe. Play with his hair. Straddle him. Suck on his finger. Keep mixing things up. Let him know how much you liked it. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Move-Out-Quickly | How to Move Out Quickly | Moving out of your home quickly can be stressful, but if you're organized, the process will be much easier. Before you start, make sure you have everything you need, like moving boxes in a variety of sizes, packing tape, and packing material to protect your valuable items. Then, break your packing down into individual rooms and sections, and decide when you're going to do each section. Pack any essentials you'll need for your first few days in your new place in a separate bag so you can find them easily. If you can't transport your things by yourself, rent a van, hire a moving company to help you, or ask a friend to borrow their truck. You can also rent storage pods in some areas, where the company drop off the pod, pick it up when you're ready, and deliver it to your new home. | Start as early as possible. The sooner you can formulate a moving plan, and start packing and moving your boxes, the better. Trying to pack your entire household in a day or two isn't advisable and sure to cause much undue stress. Make a plan. If you have a plan for moving, it will not only make the process go more quickly, but it will help you remain calm. Setting goals for each day is a good idea. For example, you could pack the living room on Monday, the bathroom on Tuesday, and the bedroom on Wednesday. Having other organizational structures will support your plan. For example, designate white trash bags for items you're taking on the move, and black trash bags for trash. This will keep you from throwing away what you need or digging to figure out what you've packed in these bags. Gather moving supplies. Having an assortment of moving supplies on hand, from different sized boxes to packing tape, will keep you from having to make unnecessary trips to the store for materials. Essential supplies for moving are: a variety of small, medium and large packing boxes; packing tape; permanent markers for identifying box contents; box labels or colored tape for coding the contents of your boxes; packing material such as bubble wrap or newspaper; and furniture pads. Sandwich bags are an excellent option for packing small parts. Plastic wrap such as Glad Press n' Seal will allow you to seal clothing in drawers so that you don't have to pack them in a separate box. Renting a dolly from a moving company such as UHaul will help you move large furniture and stacks of multiple boxes quickly. Rent a transportable storage pod. Companies such as PODS offer transportable storage units. The company will drop off the pod, pick it up when you're ready, and then deliver it to your new home. This method allows you to move boxes as you pack them and give you access for more than a day, which is a disadvantage of a moving van or truck. Throw away or donate unnecessary or unwanted items. Getting rid of anything you don't want or need in your new home will also help you move more quickly. Goodwill or other charities such as the Salvation Army will pick up any items you would like to donate. Make a specific packing station or choose a packing room. Choose one specific place to pack your belongings to make the process run smoothly. Have all of your packing supplies in that place. Assembling boxes before you start will help you pack faster. Photograph your electronics. Take pictures of the different cord and wire connections on electronics such as televisions, DVD players, and internet routers. This will save you time because you won't have to guess the right configuration when you unpack. Ask family and friends to help. Having extra sets of hands to help you pack and move your boxes will significantly decrease your move time. Assigning your friends and family specific tasks will further expedite your moving process. Pack essentials for a few days. Pack items you will need before you unpack in your new home in order to keep yourself from having to search through boxes. You'll want to pack some clothing, a couple of towels, your toiletries, and anything else you think you might need. Pack one room at a time. If you pack your home one room at a time, it will keep the process manageable and organize, decreasing the likelihood that you'll have to scramble finding your items. If you can, put together small items in things like baskets and cover them with Glad Press n' Seal. Then you can easily place them in a moving box without damaging the items or packing everything individually. An effective and fast way to pack clothes is simply leaving them on the hangers and either placing them flat in the back of your vehicle, collecting them in a garbage bag with the hangers sticking out, or putting them in a wardrobe box. Pack similar items together. As you pack each room, make sure to keep like items together. For example, pack first aid and medical supplies together. Label or color code your boxes. If you have a system of labeling your boxes, it will make packing similar items together easier and help you find items more quickly when you unpack. One way to label is by writing to what room the box belongs to on the outside. Putting different colored pieces of tape is another great way to label your boxes. Each room will get a different color, which will make it easier for you to place them in the correct spaces in your new home. Pack your boxes in a moving truck or transportable storage. Once you've packed your boxes, it's time to move them into the form of transportation that will take them to your new home. If you decide on transportable storage, you can move the boxes when you like. You can move the boxes room by room this way, making it easier to unpack at your new home. If you decide on a moving truck or van, you'll likely only have one day to move your boxes. You can also do this room by room to keep the process organized. Photograph your empty space. Taking a few pictures of your empty space will ensure that you get your security deposit back if you're a renter and help you avoid quibbles with new buyers if you're the home owner. Consider a moving company just for transportation. If you don't want to use the option of a transportable storage or your personal vehicle, consider hiring a moving company or moving van just for transportation. Compare different offers. Mayflower, Bekins, UHaul, and Atlas Van Services all have websites that allow you to compare their prices and transport services, and make a reservation for your move. Make sure to read the fine print of any offer. This will not only inform you of their rules, but also spare you from any extra or hidden charges. If you decide to make a reservation, make sure to print a copy of the confirmation. The day before your scheduled move, reconfirm with the company. Decide on what moving services you want to use. Before you find the right moving company to help you relocate quickly, it's a good idea to find out what services different companies offer. From this information, you can figure out if you want to let them pack and unpack your entire home, or if you want to take on all or some of the packing yourself. Moving companies like Mayflower and Bekins offer a broad range of moving services. These include: completely packing and unpacking your home, packing and unpacking some of your home, or simply moving your already packed home. Allowing a moving company to pack and unpack your entire home is the fastest method to move, but will also cost the most. Research and hire a moving company. After you've decided on what moving services you would like, you're ready to research and hire the right company for your needs. Compare different companies, their services, and prices online. Mayflower, Bekins, and Atlas Van Services all have websites that allow you to compare their prices and services, and make a reservation for your move. Read the fine print of any offer. This will not only inform you of their rules, but also spare you from any extra or hidden charges. When you make your reservation, print a copy of your reservation confirmation. The day before your scheduled move, reconfirm the reservation with the company. Talk to the movers and ask questions. On your moving day, talk to the movers about their plans for your move and any wishes or expectations you may have, and confirm any delivery information. Also ask them any questions you have. If you opted to have the movers pack and unpack your entire home, confirm this information with them and let them know if there's a specific way you'd like them to pack your items. If you opted to have the movers pack and unpack some of your home, discuss the division of labor with them. From this step, you will apply the same tips to your select items that you would for packing your entire home by yourself. If you opted to pack your entire apartment before the moving company picks it up for delivery to your new home, you will apply the same tips for packing your entire apartment quickly and efficiently by yourself. Meet the movers at your new home. On the day you've decided to move into your new home, meet the movers at the time you selected. You will need to let them in to your new home so they can place your boxes in the proper rooms. | Start as early as possible. Make a plan. Gather moving supplies. Rent a transportable storage pod. Throw away or donate unnecessary or unwanted items. Make a specific packing station or choose a packing room. Photograph your electronics. Ask family and friends to help. Pack essentials for a few days. Pack one room at a time. Pack similar items together. Label or color code your boxes. Pack your boxes in a moving truck or transportable storage. Photograph your empty space. Consider a moving company just for transportation. Decide on what moving services you want to use. Research and hire a moving company. Talk to the movers and ask questions. Meet the movers at your new home. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Grow-Wisteria | How to Grow Wisteria | To grow wisteria, start by planting seeds in a seed starter filled most of the way with potting soil. Next, cover them with 1/4 inch of soil, keep the soil moist, and transplant the spouts outside when they are 4 to 5 inches tall. To grow wisteria from a cutting, find a new shoot and snip off the bottom. After that, fill a pot with rocks and potting soil and place the cutting 2 inches deep. Then, cover the pot in plastic, place it in indirect sunlight, and it should take root in 4 to 8 weeks. | Germinate the seeds. When you're growing a plant from a seed, it can help to germinate the seed first, because this will increase the chances of it taking root in the ground. Place the seeds in a small bowl and fill it with warm water. Let the seeds sit in the water for 24 hours. After 24 hours, drain the water. On each seed, use your nail to gently pick away a small portion of the seed covering. Note that wisteria should be planted outdoors in the spring or fall, so make sure you start the germination process about six weeks before you want to transplant it outside. Plant the seeds in a seed starter. Fill a seed starter most of the way with potting soil and place one or two wisteria seeds on top of the soil in each pod. Make sure the seeds are on their sides. Cover them with one-quarter inch of potting soil. Place the seed trays in a warm, bright room. Add some water to the soil, and keep it moist for the duration of the sprouting time. Allow the seeds to sprout. Keep the seeds warm and moist while they germinate, and give them lots of natural light. The seeds should sprout within 10 to 30 days. Before you can transplant the sprouts, make sure they are at least four to five inches tall, and have a couple leaves on each stalk. Find a plant to take a cutting from. A cutting is a root, leaf, shoot, or bud that gets trimmed off an established plant to propagate a new plant of the same kind. To do this, you will need an established wisteria plant to take the cutting from. If you don't have an established plant to work with, ask friends or neighbors if they have a wisteria you can use. Take a cutting. For wisteria, you want to cut off a new shoot that still has soft green wood and that hasn't yet developed bark. Make sure the shoot has a few sets of leaves on it (a couple on the top and a couple on the bottom). With a pair of sharp scissors or gardening snips, cut the shoot near the base. Make sure the cutting you take is about six inches long. You will have the highest chances of success if you do this at the end of spring or beginning of summer. Prepare the cutting. Snip off any leaves that are at the bottom of the cutting, leaving ones at the top intact. Then, snip off the bottom of the cutting at a 45-degree angle so there's only one-half inch (127 mm) of stem below the bottom leaf node that you cut. This will give the new roots somewhere to grow from and allow them to establish. For the best results, dip the end of the cutting into a rooting hormone before planting it. Plant the cutting. Place some rocks in the bottom of a small gardening pot to help with drainage. Fill the pot with potting soil that's specifically designed for good drainage—look for a soil with a high perlite or coarse sand concentration. Add some water so the soil is moist. Make a two-inch (5 cm) deep hole in the soil with your finger and place the cutting in so the leaves are sticking up. Replace the soil and cover the bottom of the cutting where the roots will grow. Cover the pot with plastic. This will keep the soil moist and warm, and this will help the wisteria to take root. You can either wrap the entire pot in a plastic bag, or cover the top with a plastic bag or plastic wrap. Place the pot in an area where the plant will receive lots of indirect sunlight. Water regularly. When the soil becomes dry to the touch, add water so it's always moist. After about four to eight weeks, the cutting should take root. Since it's best to plant wisteria in spring or fall, don't plant the wisteria as soon as it begins to take root. Wait until fall to transplant it outside, or continue growing the new plant inside in pots until the following spring. Choose the right location. There are a few considerations when planting wisteria, including what the plant needs to survive and where it won't cause damage. For instance: The plant can grow quite large, so while it will grow nicely as a vine up a gazebo or pergola, this may not be a wise choice unless you're comfortable getting on a stepladder to prune the tree. Similarly, because wisteria is a climbing vine, avoid planting it near your house or any buildings, as eventually the plant can grow underneath siding, or ruin shutters and frames. Because wisteria grows so quickly and so heartily, plant it away from other plants, otherwise the wisteria might choke them out. Wisteria needs lots of sunlight to grow and bloom, so choose an area where the plant will get full sun exposure. The soil type doesn't matter so much, but wisteria does need good drainage. Dig a hole. The hole should be the depth of the roots and two to three times wider than the width of the roots. If you're planting more than one wisteria, make sure the holes are at least 10 to 15 feet (3 to 5 m) apart. Transfer the seedling. When the hole is ready, carefully remove the seedling from the starter pod by tipping it upside down with one hand and cupping the plant with the other. When the roots slide out of the pod, gently place the plant roots down into the hole. Add enough soil and compost to cover the roots, then water the plant. Allow the water to drain, then fill up the hole with soil and compost. Use your hands to press down the soil around the plant, and give it some more water. Cover it with mulch. Mulch will help keep the soil around the plant moist, which is good for wisteria. Each spring, add a layer of compost and a layer of mulch on top of the soil where the wisteria is. Provide support. Wisteria is a heavy plant, and without the proper support, it will collapse under its own weight in the wind. You will need to provide support in the form of stakes if you didn't plant your wisteria near to a wall or structure that will support it. When the wisteria plant has established itself, insert a wooden stake six to 12 inches into the ground about one-half inch away from the stalk. Using twine, attach the wisteria stalk to the stake every eight inches. Make sure the plant gets enough water. This is especially important in the first year. Wisteria needs the equivalent of one inch of water each week, so if you aren't getting enough precipitation, you will need to water as well. Even if you are getting enough rain, you should still give the wisteria a soaking once a week. Prune regularly. Wisteria responds vigorously to pruning. Pruning is also the key to getting good blossoms from your plant. You'll want to cut the plant back by at least half of its growth from the past year in late winter, leaving only a few buds per stem. You can prune more during the year, too. If you want a more formal appearance, try pruning again the summer after the traditional flowering. You can also encourage more blossoms by cutting back shoots every two weeks or so during summer. | Germinate the seeds. Plant the seeds in a seed starter. Allow the seeds to sprout. Find a plant to take a cutting from. Take a cutting. Prepare the cutting. Plant the cutting. Cover the pot with plastic. Water regularly. Choose the right location. Dig a hole. Transfer the seedling. Cover it with mulch. Provide support. Make sure the plant gets enough water. Prune regularly. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Prepare-for-an-Impending-Breakup | How to Prepare for an Impending Breakup | Knowing you're heading for a breakup can be tough, but if you start to prepare yourself, you can help soften the blow. Start clearing out photos of your partner and anything else that reminds you of them. Make sure you have a good self-care routine in place, including exercise, sufficient sleep, and a healthy diet, which will keep you in the best shape for dealing with the breakup. Consider starting a new hobby to help distract you and meet new people. You can also let your friends and family know you'll probably be breaking up with your partner soon so they can support you and spend time with you. Breakups can be painful, but try to focus on the positive aspects on the horizon, like more free time, no one stealing your bed sheets at night, and ultimately, a more peaceful state of mind. | Ask the tough questions. It can be difficult when you are going through a rough patch, or are in a big fight, to not feel like your relationship is doomed. Before you go about separating yourself from the relationship, make sure you aren't jumping to inaccurate conclusions. Evaluate where your relationship really stands and where you think it is going. Figure out where you are emotionally and maybe where your partner is, before you start mentally detaching from the relationship. Once you begin to distance yourself it can be hard to come back. Ask yourself about the quality of your relationship. Are there more good times than bad times? Are you exhausted or unhappy because of the constant ups and downs? Determine what has been done to work on the relationship. Consider what you have done to try and address whatever problems you have had. Be honest about who, if anyone, is committed to making the relationship successful. If the answer isn't both partners, then the relationship is likely not going to be saved. Have you talked about it with each other? How many times have you both tried to change things? Have you tried counseling? Enjoy it while you can. If you have determined that your relationship is past the point of saving, then begin to accept that it will end. Instead of waiting for it to end, spend time focusing on the good things in the moment and the good things about your relationship. Use this time to discover what good memories you have, what you can learn, or what you can take away from this experience. Change the way you think about being single. Begin working on emotionally and mentally preparing yourself for a shift in relationship status. Instead of the "forever alone" mentality that sometimes comes along with a break up, think of it as a much-needed rest from the rigors of the relationship you've been fighting for. Try and change the word "single" in your mind into "free" and changing negative thinking into more positive thinking. Think about the bad parts of the relationship, and how it would feel to live free of those. Make a list of all the possible good things that you can think of about being free from that relationship as well as being free to be you in general. Be kind to yourself. You may feel down or sad about the ending of your relationship, and that's okay. Allow yourself to grieve the end of your time with your partner. Be kind to yourself and remind yourself that you were just not a good fit for each other. Don't let the impending break up cause you to become sorry for yourself or depressed about your life. Love yourself the way you want to be loved, and treat yourself the way you deserve to be treated. Reframe the way you perceive "alone" and "loneliness. " In many societies there seems to be a higher value set to being in a relationship or being married than being on your own. Due to that, and the pressure that comes along with it, people can get into relationships that are not healthy for them, or stay in relationships that don't make them happy. Have high standards, and keep them high. You are worth it! Ask yourself, "Didn't I feel lonely in this relationship anyway?" Remind yourself that being single or free from this relationship does not mean you are alone. You still have people in your life that are there for the long haul and truly care about your happiness. Envision yourself happy. Create a mental or physical picture (draw, paint, collage, write, etc) of yourself and your life in the near future. Think about how your life would look with no traces of your soon-to-be-ex in it; with you happy and content. Being able to clearly visualize future changes will help give you something to work towards fulfilling while you work through the impending break up. What would you like to do? Is there a place you have been wanting to visit or see? What would you eat? Is there a restaurant or a type of food you liked but did have because he didn't like it? Who would you like to be with? Are there friends you have lost contact with? A dream relationship you have in your mind? Remember who you are. People in relationships often get so enmeshed with their partner that they forget parts of who they are and become defined by the other person. As you are preparing for the break up, rediscover that person again. Try to spend time thinking about how awesome you are, and remembering all the incredible parts of you that may have gotten lost while you were in this relationship. Make a list of the qualities that make you, you; focusing on the positives. Think about your strengths. Rediscover hobbies or interests that you may have been neglecting. Choose to see this as an opportunity to reevaluate what you really want out of a relationship. Start clearing emotional triggers and clutter. Consider significantly downsizing if your room or apartment is filled with reminders of your relationship. While you are getting ready for this break up and during the time when you are healing from it you don't want to have constant reminders of the relationship or of your partner everywhere you look. Anything that you have of your partner's, place in a box for a friend to take to over after the break up. Anything that reminds you of them or your relationship that you would like to keep, should be tucked away in a special box, or gotten rid of entirely. Redecorate. If ridding the area of mementos and memorabilia doesn't seem like it is doing enough, redecorate your space. While you are readying yourself for the impending breakup, think about how you would like your space to reflect this transition. Move the furniture around, or get new furniture completely. Choose a different color scheme. Change whatever you need to, to make the space feel fresh, comforting, and exciting to you. Start a self-care routine. Staying healthy is especially important during a break up and getting into the habit of taking care of yourself now, will help you take care of yourself afterwards. Develop your self care routine and begin using it immediately. It will help you with the stress of the impending break up as well as the break up when it occurs. Stock up on healthy foods, and immune system boosting items like Vitamin C to guard your body against the affects your emotions can have on your health. Make sure you are going to bed at a reasonable time and getting an average of 8 hours of sleep per night. Develop an exercise routine. Exercise has been proven to help fight depression, increase physical health, and increase the production of feel-good responses in your body. Journal or write expressively about what you are going through. Come up with a plan of action for when the breakup happens. If you feel like you're going to be overwhelmed when the breakup occurs, you will want to make sure you have a plan in place to make the stress as low as possible for you. This is especially important if your impending break up involves someone you live with. Enlist a support network of friends and family members you trust. Make sure to give them a heads up about what's going on. Let them know you may need their help and keep their numbers accessible. Have someone be responsible for gathering any items your soon-to-be-ex has of yours and vice versa. Make an no-contact agreement with yourself in regards to your partner for after the break up occurs and try to stick to it. Have a plan for where you will stay and who will stay with you for a little while afterwards. Pick some distractions for immediately after the break up. You will want to give yourself some time to be upset, but you should also plan for some comfort and distraction during that time as well. Set aside some movies you've been wanting to check out, or books you have been meaning to read. Binge-watch the latest season of a favorite show. Stock your refrigerator with one favorite comfort food you love. End it yourself. If you have been preparing for the end of the relationship and you feel strong and at peace with your decision, consider ending it yourself. There's no need to drag something out that you are not interested in working on or isn't meant to be any longer. Instead of waiting around, unhappy, for your partner to open up the topic, take control of the situation. Speak to your partner face to face. Don't end the relationship over the phone or over text message. Talk about the relationship and how it has affected you. Try to avoid blame or judgment. Let them know why you are ending it and try to avoid cliché phrases such as “It's not you, it's me.” Enjoy time with your friends. As you are preparing for this break up, take the time to reconnect with friends you may have lost touch with. It will not only help ease any stress you might be having about the break up, but will also help you move on post-break up, when you are ready. Trust your friends and let them help you through this. Whether it is hanging out with you eating ice cream and watching a movie, playing a game of basketball at the park, or going together to a party, allow them to support you and help you heal. Avoid cheating and rebound relationships. You have been unhappy in your relationship, so it is easy to see how tempting it may be to seek out the affections of another person. Avoid looking for that type of comfort before your current relationship has been declared over. Even if your relationship is ending from a cheating partner, don't stoop to their level. Additionally after the break up give yourself some time to recover before looking for the stability of a new relationship. Be open-minded, meet new people, or check out a new scene, but honor yourself by not running to the next available relationship. | Ask the tough questions. Determine what has been done to work on the relationship. Enjoy it while you can. Change the way you think about being single. Be kind to yourself. Reframe the way you perceive "alone" and "loneliness. Envision yourself happy. Remember who you are. Start clearing emotional triggers and clutter. Redecorate. Start a self-care routine. Come up with a plan of action for when the breakup happens. Pick some distractions for immediately after the break up. End it yourself. Enjoy time with your friends. Avoid cheating and rebound relationships. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Come-Out | How to Come Out | If you're ready to come out, try starting out by telling a friend or family member who's accepting and supportive. If you're worried about doing it face-to-face, you can always write them a letter and ask them to read it in private. Once you've told someone and you feel a little more comfortable, consider telling more of your friends so you can build a support system. If you're worried your parents might respond negatively or cut you off, you may want to wait until you're out of the house before you tell them. | Work on coming to terms with your sexuality or gender identity. If you're comfortable with who you are, you might have an easier time telling your friends and family. It's normal to feel confused, so don't feel like you need to have all of the answers. Just try to accept that your sexuality or gender identity is part of who you are, and know that you have no reason to feel ashamed. Coming out to yourself can be tough, but it's an important first step. Tell yourself, “I'm gay,” “I'm bisexual,” “I'm transgender ,” or “I'm questioning right now, and that's okay. I have no reason to feel guilty or ashamed.” Reminding yourself that you're not alone can help. Try reading books or online articles about other people's coming out journeys. You can find coming out stories and lots of other resources at http://www.hrc.org/explore/topic/coming-out. Remember that you’re in charge of your coming out process. Never let anyone pressure you into coming out. Don't let a friend or siblings pressure you into telling your parents, or allow a loved one to pressure you into coming out at work or school. You are in control of whom you tell and when, so take each step of your journey at your own pace. You may have friends who came out years ago, but that doesn't mean you need to follow their timelines. What's right for them isn't necessarily what's right for you. Coming out can lift a heavy weight off of your shoulders, and it can help you feel closer to supportive loved ones. However, it can be risky. You shouldn't feel like coming out is your only choice, especially if you don't feel safe doing so. Don’t let others label your sexuality or gender identity. Adopt a label, such as “gay” or “bisexual” once you're comfortable with it. If you're unsure or aren't ready to put a label on your orientation or identity, don't let someone else define it for you. Keep in mind you might feel pressure to adopt a label from both straight and LGBTQ+ friends. For example, suppose you tell your friend that you think you're bisexual, and they say, “Well I'm sure you're really gay, but you're more comfortable saying 'bi' for now.” No one knows you better than you and, even if your friend is right, no one can force you to adopt one label or another. An LGBTQ+ friend might tell you that you need to tell everyone in your life your specific orientation or gender label in order to be your authentic self. No one, whether they're homophobic or LGBTQ+, has the right to dictate another person's sexual orientation or gender identity. Being gay, bi, or queer is only part of your identity, just as a straight person isn't purely defined by their sexual orientation. You don't need to change who you are to fit anyone's standards or stereotypes. Get a sense for how accepting a loved one is before telling them. Do your best to ensure the first person you tell is open, accepting, and supportive. Try bringing up issues with friends and family like gay marriage or transgender teen homelessness, or mention an LGBTQ+ movie or TV character. You could say, “I saw story on the news about same-sex marriage. What are your thoughts on it?” Before you come out to someone, think about how accepting they are of other people. Do they have a loved one who's openly LGBTQ+, and do they treat that loved one with love, support, and respect? Do they make offensive jokes or disparaging comments? If you have a trusted friend who's a member of the LGBTQ+ community, they might be the best person to tell first. They've been in your shoes, and there's a lower risk that they'll react negatively. Come out to people who will respect your privacy. The first people you tell should be absolutely trustworthy. When you come out to them, be sure to tell them that they shouldn't tell anyone what you've confided in them. Before coming out to someone, ask yourself if they tend to gossip. Have they ever broken your trust in the past? Do they tell you about other people's secrets? Write a letter, if it seems less intimidating. If coming out to a loved one face-to-face is too intimidating, or if you're afraid of getting tongue-tied, you could write them a letter instead. Start by letting them know that you trust them and want to share something important with them. Then tell them about your sexual orientation or gender identity in clear, simple terms. For example, you might write, “I've wanted to tell you that I'm gay for a little while now, but I've been so scared. I think part of me has known most of my life, but I've never really accepted it until recently.” Be sure not to give your loved one the letter at school, work, or a crowded place. You could ask them to read it in private, or you could hand them the letter and ask them to read it in your presence. It might be easier to get the conversation going if you put everything you want to say in writing. Writing a letter could be a good method if you're worried about coming out to your parents. Choose a supportive friend who will help you gain confidence. An open-minded and understanding friend can support you and help you gain the courage to move forward. If your first experience coming out to someone is positive, you might be less anxious about telling other people in the future. You might find it easier to come out to your friends before telling your family. However, keep in mind that you're in charge. If you'd feel more comfortable telling your parents first, then that's the path you should take. Keep in mind people don't always meet your expectations, and you can't control anyone's reaction. Don't get discouraged if someone you tell doesn't react the way you expected. Sometimes, people are shocked or upset at first, then become more accepting after they've had time to absorb the news. Pick a relaxed, private place to tell them. While there's no ideal way to come out, a private, distraction-free time and place can make things easier. Avoid having the conversation when you or your friend are stressed, upset, or busy. That way, you'll have an easier time expressing yourself clearly, and your friend will have a chance to process what you have to say. For instance, you wouldn't want to want to deliver the news when your friend has a basketball game in 10 minutes or is running late for work. You don't have to make a big deal about it. Just ask your friend to hang out, and say that there's something you want to tell them. Try to be honest, matter-of-fact, and positive. Take a breath, relax, and say, “I wanted to tell you something. I'm gay. I'm telling you because I trust you and know you'll be there for me.” If you haven't come out to anyone else, let your friend know that this is the first time you've told anyone, and that you've chosen to tell them because you trust that they'll be there for you. While it's a big moment, it's not like your confessing to a crime or informing your friend that you have a life-threatening sickness. You're sharing something with someone you trust. This is a good, friendship-affirming thing, so do your best to keep your tone positive. Allow your friend to react and ask questions. Your friend might need a moment to process what you've said, so be patient. Give them a few minutes to react, and let them know they should feel free to ask any questions. Your friend might not have any questions, or they might say that they're not surprised. Don't worry if the conversation is a little awkward, or if they don't know what to say. Just give your friend the time they need to take in the news. Let them know you could use their help as you come out to others. Knowing that you're no longer alone and that you have someone to lean on can make things much less overwhelming. Be honest with your friend, and tell them that you could use their support through your coming out journey. Say, “It's such a relief that you've been so accepting. I'm still anxious about telling other people, and I'm hoping you might be able to give me a pep talk now and then. Knowing that I'm not alone in this would really make me feel better about telling people.” Unfortunately, you might not get the support you expected when you come out to friends and family. If someone needs more time to process what you've said, or if their reaction is negative, don't get discouraged. There are other people who can give you the support you deserve. Build a support system if you’re worried about telling your family. Coming out to your friends can help you feel more confident about yourself. If you're not sure how your parents will react, it's also important to have people you trust who can lend emotional and practical support. If you're legally a minor or still depend on your parents, it might be best to put off coming out if you think they'd stop supporting you. If you feel compelled to tell your parents regardless of the outcome, make arrangements to stay with a supportive friend or relative just in case. If you're not ready to tell your parents, make sure your friends understand that your family doesn't know, and ask them to respect your privacy. Try to anticipate how your parents will react. The best case scenario is that they will be completely accepting, that they might have already known, and that this conversation won't cause tension. However, coming out to your parents could be risky, especially if they've demonstrated homophobic and/or transphobic behavior in the past. If your parents have expressed positive views of the LGBTQ+ community, have supported other people coming out, and are generally open minded, then there's a good chance they'll be supportive. Keep in mind that, while your parents may be accepting or have LGBTQ+ friends, they might still react strongly when you tell them. Hold off on coming out if your safety would be at risk. Unfortunately, there are some cases where you're better off not coming out to your parents. If they've expressed homophobic and/or transphobic views, and if you're financially dependent on them, it might be in your best interest to wait to tell them until you're independent. Ask yourself if they might withdraw their support, stop paying your school tuition, or kick you out of the house. While keeping it to yourself might be tough, you shouldn't come out to them if your well-being is at risk. Inform trusted loved ones that you’re about to come out to your parents. Whether your parents react positively or negatively, it's helpful to know that you have friends on whom you can rely. If you've already come out to friends or relatives, tell them when you're planning to come out to your parents. Your supportive loved ones will be there for you to vent to regardless of how things go with your parents. If you decide to come out to your parents but are worried they'll get upset, ask a supportive loved one if you can stay with them in the event things with your parents turn sour. Choose a calm, relaxed time and place to come out to your parents. Pick a time when you and your parents aren't stressed, busy, or distracted. Additionally, you might have an easier time if there are no major life events happening. For instance, avoid telling them if a relative has just passed away or the night before your sister gets married. Make sure the emotional climate at home is stable. If your parents are fighting or if you've just gotten grounded, you might want to wait for things to settle. Don’t come out during a fight. You may feel tempted to come out in the middle of an argument with your parents, but you shouldn't use the news as a weapon. If you tell them out of spite, you'll make it harder for them to come to terms your sexuality or gender identity. Tell your parents that you love them and want to be honest. Start by letting them know that you want to have an honest, loving relationship with them. Tell them that you want them to be a part of your life, and that their love and support mean a lot to you. Take a deep breath and keep your cool. Even if you're worried that they'll react negatively, your parents might surprise you and thank you for being honest. Do your best to stay positive, and tell them, “I'm gay,” or “I'm bisexual,” in simple, matter-of-fact terms. Let them know you understand if they feel shocked or upset. Even to the most accepting of parents, your news may come as a complete shock. They might be afraid that you'll face a more difficult life, or that you won't be able to get married and have children. Their fears may or may not be justified but, either way, try to be empathetic instead of taking it personally. Try saying, “I get that this is a lot to take in, and you have a right to have strong feelings. But this is who I am, and I'm happy with it. This isn't a bad thing, so please don't be angry or blame yourself. This doesn't have anything to do with you or your parenting.” Assure them that you're happy and healthy, and that life poses challenges for everyone, regardless of their orientation or gender identity. Remind them that, in general, people are becoming more accepting of other lifestyles. If your country or local government has non-discrimination or same-sex marriage laws, tell your parents about them. Give your parents time to absorb the news. Sometimes, parents already know and are supportive right away. For other parents, accepting the news can take months or years; some, unfortunately, aren't able to accept it. Try to be patient, and be prepared to answer any questions they may have. While you wait for them to process your news, make sure you feel safe. The environment may feel a little tense and uncomfortable, but as long as you're safe, you can remain at home. While you give your parents time to process this information, lean on your friends. Spending more time with your support network can help you get through a rough patch with your parents. Suggest educational resources that might ease their concerns. Even if your parents don't want to be educated at first, they might come around in time. Try not to start with terminology beyond their understanding. Just give them some resources for parents of members of the LGBTQ+ community. For example, suggest that they check out the website of Parents, Families and Friends of Lesbians and Gays (PFLAG) at www.pflag.org. Come out to your extended family at your own pace. When you come out to your parents, let them know that you intend to come out to the rest of your family on your own terms. If you don't want other relatives to know right away, ask your parents to respect your privacy. Remember that you get to choose when and how you come out to the people in your life. Of course, it's fine if you think it'd be less stressful for your parents to tell other family members. You're in charge, so take the steps that make you most comfortable. Decide which parts of your life feel safe. You may only want to tell your close friends and family members, and hold off on coming out at work or school. You're not obligated to tell anyone, even after you've come out to a few people. It's perfectly fine if you don't feel safe coming out at work or school. You might have straight or LGBTQ+ friends who try to convince you to come out in all areas of your life. Remind them that you know what's best for you. Factor your community’s level of tolerance into your decisions. Some communities are more accepting than others, so assess your local climate. If you live in a more tolerant community, coming out might not be a big deal for your neighbors, coworkers, or classmates. If you encounter homophobia or transphobia regularly, coming out is a lower priority than staying safe. If homophobia and bullying at school or work are commonplace, or if being LGBTQ+ is illegal in your country, it's not your responsibility to come out and try to change society. People do need to learn how to treat others with dignity and respect, but that doesn't mean you need to put your safety at risk. Research your local laws and employer’s non-discrimination policy. Before coming out at work, make sure you're protected from discrimination. Without a non-discrimination policy or legal protection, your employer might be able to fire you for coming out. Additionally gauge the climate at work. Do people make offensive jokes? How close are you with your coworkers? If you have any openly LGBTQ+ coworkers, you could ask them for advice. If you feel compelled to live openly at work, you don't need to pull everyone aside and come out to them individually. Without making a big announcement or speech, you could simply bring your partner or a date to a work event. Consider coming out on social media. For some people, coming out on social media is easier than telling dozens or hundreds of people individually. You could talk about it in a status, change your “Interested in” setting, or just let people figure it out from the photos you're tagged in or post. While you get to decide how and when you come out, your close friends and relatives will appreciate it if you tell them one-on-one before posting on social media. Surround yourself with positive, accepting people. You don't need to suddenly drop all of your straight friends as soon as you come out. However, try to spend time with friends who are LGBTQ+. Talking to people who've faced similar challenges is a great way to build confidence and resilience. If you don't have many LGBTQ+ friends, see if there's a local organization or other outlet that connects members of the LGBTQ+ community. You might have an alliance or club at work or school. Don’t let negative reactions hurt your self-esteem. Even if you live in an open, accepting community, you will encounter ignorance at some point in your life. If someone makes a hateful comment, don't waste your time or energy fighting with them. Don't let them lower your self-esteem. You can't control what other people do, think, or say, but you can control your reaction. Love and respect yourself no matter what anyone says. When you're upset or frustrated, vent to a supportive friend. If someone is genuinely misinformed and has your best interests at heart, they might be receptive to a rational conversation. You could try to tell them what it's like to walk in your shoes. | Work on coming to terms with your sexuality or gender identity. Remember that you’re in charge of your coming out process. Don’t let others label your sexuality or gender identity. Get a sense for how accepting a loved one is before telling them. Come out to people who will respect your privacy. Write a letter, if it seems less intimidating. Choose a supportive friend who will help you gain confidence. Pick a relaxed, private place to tell them. Try to be honest, matter-of-fact, and positive. Allow your friend to react and ask questions. Let them know you could use their help as you come out to others. Build a support system if you’re worried about telling your family. Try to anticipate how your parents will react. Hold off on coming out if your safety would be at risk. Inform trusted loved ones that you’re about to come out to your parents. Choose a calm, relaxed time and place to come out to your parents. Don’t come out during a fight. Tell your parents that you love them and want to be honest. Let them know you understand if they feel shocked or upset. Give your parents time to absorb the news. Suggest educational resources that might ease their concerns. Come out to your extended family at your own pace. Decide which parts of your life feel safe. Factor your community’s level of tolerance into your decisions. Research your local laws and employer’s non-discrimination policy. Consider coming out on social media. Surround yourself with positive, accepting people. Don’t let negative reactions hurt your self-esteem. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Clean-Slate-Floors | How to Clean Slate Floors | To clean slate floors, sweep the floor with a soft-bristle broom or vacuum with a brush attachment. Slate is soft and can be easily damaged, so make sure you choose a brush that is as clean and soft as possible. Mop the floor with a mixture of warm water and a gentle detergent or slate cleaner. Rinse and wring out the mop often to ensure you don't work dirt into the slate's porous surface. Dry the floor thoroughly with a clean towel, then apply a small amount of teak or slate oil to the floor. | Sweep or vacuum the floor. With a soft-bristle broom, go along the floor, removing any debris. You can also use a vacuum with a brush attachment to get between the crevices. Remember that slate is soft and easily damaged, so you want to choose a brush that is clean and as soft as possible. Dust mop the floor. Choose a clean dust mop that is not oil-based. Run the mop in one direction over the floor to pick up debris and dust. Avoid moving back and forth, as this will move the dust back onto the slate and cause damage when you clean later. Prepare a water and detergent mixture. In a bucket, combine about a gallon of warm water with ¼ a cup of detergent. The detergent should be gentle to avoid abrading the floor. Choose a detergent for delicate clothing or a gentle dish soap. Specialized slate cleaners are also an option. These should be non-acidic. Follow the directions on the container. Mop the floor. Wring out the mop before you start and make smooth strokes. Go slow. Rinse your mop and wring it out often to avoid any debris clinging to it and getting worked into the porous slate. Steam mops are also an option. Check the hardware store. These mops pick up extra condensation and dirt. Anytime the mop appears to be leaving streaks or debris on the floor, dump out your water and make the water and detergent mixture again. Dry the floor with a towel. Choose a soft cloth that won't scrape the slate, then wipe off as much water as possible. This will prevent the water from seeping into the pores. Afterwards, let the floor air dry. Apply teak oil. Once the surface has dried, apply a thin layer of teak oil with a soft cloth. A small amount of oil will ensure a deeper cleaning, but don't apply enough that the slate begins to absorb it. Slate oil is also a good choice, but tends to be much more expensive than teak oil. Repeat cleaning in two to three months. Slate is a very delicate material, so your floor benefits from getting a soap and water wash every few months. This removes grime and prevents stains and the need to perform deeper, more difficult cleaning later. Use a sealer. Stone and tile sealers are available at flooring retailers and hardware stores. Follow the directions on the label. Use a clean cotton mop to spread the sealer evenly across the floor. This will prevent stains by blocking the pores from spills. Wipe up spills immediately. Tackle spills as soon as they happen to avoid any substance getting into the porous surface. Use a soft cloth or towel. Rub out stains. Choose a clean sponge or a scrub brush with soft, non-metal bristles. Also avoid using any acidic or abrasive cleaners. You can use the warm, soapy water from mopping to scrub the stains. Use hydrogen peroxide. For floors with non-colored grout only, mix an equal amount of water and hydrogen peroxide into a spray bottle. Spray the mixture on, let it sit for ten minutes, then scrub it off with a soft pad or brush. This is a bleach mixture, so it will take the color out of colored grout. Use peroxide and baking soda. For stubborn stains, mix small amounts of peroxide and baking soda to form a paste. Wait for the bubbles to stop, then put the paste on the stains. Let it set for a few minutes, then wipe it clean with a soft cloth or towel. Use shaving cream on colored grout. Apply the shaving cream to the stains, let it sit for 15 minutes, then remove it with warm water and a soft towel. Remember to try the shaving cream in an inconspicuous spot to make sure it doesn't discolor the grout. Pour absorbent material on oil stains. Try absorbent materials such as kitty litter. Cover the stain with the material and leave it for ten minutes for a new stain or several hours for an old stain. Carefully vacuum it up when done. If repeated attempts don't remove the stain, mix equal amounts of baking soda and water, cover the stain with the resulting paste, and leave the paste on the stain to dry. If baking soda doesn't work, pour mineral spirits on the stain, leave it for half an hour, scrub with a stiff brush, then soak with newspaper and wash the area. If that doesn't work, spray brake oil on the stain then try the absorbent material again. | Sweep or vacuum the floor. Dust mop the floor. Prepare a water and detergent mixture. Mop the floor. Dry the floor with a towel. Apply teak oil. Repeat cleaning in two to three months. Use a sealer. Wipe up spills immediately. Rub out stains. Use hydrogen peroxide. Use peroxide and baking soda. Use shaving cream on colored grout. Pour absorbent material on oil stains. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Make-a-Webquest | How to Make a Webquest | To make a WebQuest, use a program like PowerPoint, Google Docs, or Microsoft Word. To format your WebQuest, start with a title page that includes the title of the quest and your name. Then, make an introduction page that introduces students to the assignment. Next, make task and process pages that outline what the objective is and what students need to do. After that, add a resources page that identifies all the sources students can use, followed by an evaluation page with a rubric. Finally, make a conclusion page that summarizes what students should have learned. | Make the Title page. You can choose from a number of formats (website, Power Point, Google Doc, Word Doc, printed worksheet, etc) but you should generally always have a title page. This sets the tone for the assignment and makes it look more professional. The Title page just shows the title of the quest and your name. Give it an interesting title! Make the Introduction page. The introduction will...you guessed it: introduce the student to the assignment. Usually it introduces the concepts dealt with in the assignment. Many times a WebQuest will have a bit of a story that goes with it, and the introduction can serve to tell the story and give a summarized, basic description of what the student is supposed to learn. Make the Task page. The Task page clearly states what the student needs to learn by the end of the assignment. Remember: the goal of the question, this learning journey, is the knowledge they come out with at the end. Use this knowledge goal to create the "story" of the quest your students will be sent on. The official Webquest site lists a variety of Task types which each serve a different education purpose. Some of the types include Journalistic, Mystery, Persuasion, Analytic, and Compilation. Make the Process page. The Process page clearly outlines what the student needs to do and in what order the tasks need to be done. Be as clear as you can: the idea is that the student can do the assignment perfectly without you needing to give them any more explanation. Make the Resources page. The Resources page gives the students a direct map to all of the sources of information they can use. This means you'll need to identify sources for the information you want them to learn. Get good at using a search engine and learn how to use keywords and boolean properties to find the information you want. Make the Evaluation page. The Evaluation page contains a rubric, so the students know exactly what you're looking for from them and what they need to do to get a good grade. Make the Conclusion page. The conclusion page wraps up the assignment, goes over the sorts of things that your students should have learned, and encourages them to learn more. You may wish to include more sources for them to do some extra learning and research if they're interested or finish early. Choose a format. The old school method of making Webquests was a Word document with hyperlinks or a basic html webpage. If you don't want to go through the pain and heartbreak of making your own website, there are templates or you can use other mediums to present the same information. A Google Doc or Spreadsheet can give your students what they need without putting so much of a burden on you. Make the task engaging. The task itself should be interesting. Get creative! The word "quest" is in the title for a reason. Give the task a sense of mystery and your students a sense of purpose. Add in duds. First, give a primer on citations, evidence, logic, bias, and things like peer review, so that they can learn to evaluate resources. Then, let your students know that one resource that you give them is a dud and contains bad information. Choose a dud website that looks as convincing as possible. This will let them practice those skills. Choose the right kind of websites and resources. You want to set a good example for your students, by showing them quality websites and teaching them how to evaluate information on the web. Look for age appropriate material but also look for reputable sources, citations, and current information. Help your students to question the material. You don't want to just spoon-feed your students the information that they need. You also don't want to give them just one side of the issue. Let them see lots of different information and teach them how to evaluate and decide what's right and wrong. Put kids in teams whenever you can. By putting students into teams, they'll not only learn how to work with others to complete tasks, but they can also cause each other to think more and discuss the validity of information they find on the web. Don't be limited to the web. While websites are the main point with WebQuests, don't feel limited to this kind of resource. Add is other materials like handouts, books, magazines, or even peer-reviewed journals if your students are in high school. Make use of experts. Inquire with experts from local universities and see if they'd be willing to email responses to set questions from students. They will usually be happy to write up a standard response that can quickly be sent in response to basic questions and your students will earn the confidence to contact experts who can advise them. Make the evaluation clear. When you write the rubric or evaluation page, make sure that it is completely clear. You want your students to be able to do well, not suffer because the instructions were ambiguous or unclear. Make a fun conclusion. Conclusions can be kind of boring...but you can snazz them up with additions like extra YouTube videos that cover the topic in a fun way. This is a great way to reward your students for finishing early or being curious enough to do more learning on their own. | Make the Title page. Make the Introduction page. Make the Task page. Make the Process page. Make the Resources page. Make the Evaluation page. Make the Conclusion page. Choose a format. Make the task engaging. Add in duds. Choose the right kind of websites and resources. Help your students to question the material. Put kids in teams whenever you can. Don't be limited to the web. Make use of experts. Make the evaluation clear. Make a fun conclusion. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Clean-Shrimp | How to Clean Shrimp | To clean shrimp, first thaw the shrimp in a bowl of ice water. Then, rinse the shrimp thoroughly under cold water. Remove the head of each shrimp by pinching the head between your fingers and pulling it away from the body. Remove the legs on each shrimp by pulling the legs away from the body. Then, hold each shrimp with the bottom facing up and peel off the shell where the legs were removed. You can also remove the tails if you'd like by pinching them and sliding them off of the shrimp. To devein the shrimp, use a toothpick to peel out the black vein that runs along the back of the shrimp. | Check the shrimp for freshness. All shrimp should be kept refrigerated between 32 and 38 F. Raw shrimp should be consumed within 48 hours of purchase, while cooked shrimp should be consumed within 5-7 days. Frozen shrimp is usually good for up to 5 or 6 months. Cooked shrimp should be firm, pinkish-white, and should not have a strong fishy odor. Some cooked shrimp will have head, legs, carapace, and shell all attached, while others will have some combination of these. Raw shrimp should be firm, translucent, and somewhat shiny, with no noticeable odor. Most of the time, raw shrimp will have the legs and shell, and often the head attached. Frozen shrimp, cooked or raw, should be defrosted in the refrigerator overnight, before attempting to clean or devein them. It's also possible to remove the number of shrimp you plan to use, and defrost them in cold water, in a bowl, in the sink. It should only take 20-30 minutes. Rinse the shrimp. Place shrimp in a colander, washing them thoroughly with cold water. Inspect the shrimp closely for signs of spoilage while you're rinsing them, and discard any that appear slimy, discolored, or which smell overly fishy. Only rinse and defrost shrimp in cold water, no warmer than room temperature. Shrimp cook very quickly, and running them through hot water will result in gummy, rubbery shrimp. Remove the heads. Pinch the head between your index finger and thumb, just where it meets the body, and hold the body firmly with your other hand. Pinch and twist the head, until it comes free. Not all shrimp come head-on, and some people prefer leaving them during cooking, to help flavor the meal. They're fine to eat, if a little strange. If the thought makes you squeamish, remove them. Discard the heads into a separate bag from your household trash or a plastic storage bag and take out quickly, or it'll start to smell. You can also save heads for making homemade seafood stock. Remove the legs. After the head has been removed, turn the body "belly" up, facing you. Grasp all the legs firmly in your fingertips, tearing them down toward the tail and pulling them free. They should come off relatively easily, but you might not be able to get them all at once. Go back and pull any stubborn legs individually. Remove the shell. At this point, there are a few different ways to proceed, all effective, depending on whether you've got raw or cooked shrimp. The most common way of removing the shell is to start where the legs were removed, peeling the shell back along the sides of the shrimp, like you were opening its jacket. Use your fingernail, or a small paring knife to get the carapace started, pull it back and off the shrimp in segments. If you prefer, you can also start where the head was removed, pulling the shell off down the back ridge of the shrimp. Equally effective. Alternatively, you can use your knife to cut along the curved back ridge of the shrimp, where the vein will be, cutting through the shell to separate and remove it along the sides. Since you'll need to remove the vein of raw shrimp anyway, it's common to use this method for raw shrimp. Remove the tail, if you want. More often, shrimp is cooked with the tail on, depending on how you want to cook it. It's also fine to remove the tail, pulling it off. You can use a small knife to slit along the underside of the tail, if you have trouble getting it off. Remove the vein. Along the back ridge of the shrimp there is a dark vein, which is the shrimp's intestinal tract. With a deveining knife or a paring knife, this can be removed by cutting into the shrimp, straight along this ridge, just deep enough to reach the vein to pull it out. You don't need to cut down very far – just until you reach the vein (about halfway through the shrimp). Tease out the vein with the tip of your knife, then grab it with your fingers and pull it back toward the tail of the shrimp. It should come loose easily. Make sure it's all removed. Store shrimp properly. Rinse the shrimp in cold water to remove any loose shell bits, or gunk from the inside of the shrimp. It's usually best to cook raw shrimp right away, after cleaning, or you can store them loosely in the refrigerator for up to 24 hours until you want to cook them. Shrimp should be stored in the fridge, between 32 and 38 degrees F, in cling wrap or in an airtight container. | Check the shrimp for freshness. Rinse the shrimp. Remove the heads. Remove the legs. Remove the shell. Remove the tail, if you want. Remove the vein. Store shrimp properly. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Re%E2%80%90Dye-Hair | How to Re‐Dye Hair | If you want to re-dye your hair, make sure you wait at least 2 weeks after your last dye so you don't damage it. It's easier and better for your hair to dye it a shade darker than your current color. If you want to dye it lighter, it'll be best to go to a hair salon. You may also want to use a color-stripper to help your hair absorb the new color. If you're dyeing your hair a new color, follow the usual method. Or, if you're re-dyeing it the same color, only apply product to your roots. Leave it in for as long as the box suggests, then rinse it out with cool water. Regardless, make sure you apply Vaseline around your hairline and put an old towel around your shoulders to protect your skin from the dye. | Wait at least two weeks before applying another color. Applying dye again too soon after coloring your hair can cause extensive damage and breakage. Additionally, you will have no way to predict how the color will look, since you're dyeing over an existing dye-job. The example color on the box will not be applicable on top of dye. Keep in mind that color doesn't lift color. You won't be able to go from a dark dyed color to a lighter color without using bleach or some form of a color correction process first. Generally, it's best to wait four to seven weeks before re-dyeing your hair so that you don't damage it, but you can try to dye it earlier if you really hate your current dye-job. If you're re-dyeing just to have a change, wait at least four weeks to apply the new color. Choose a darker shade for a better result. It's easier to darken your hair than it is to lighten, so a darker shade is more likely to absorb into already dyed hair. It's also less damaging to your hair than a bleach would be. Since you're already on your second process, avoiding additional damage is a must. If you must lighten your hair, visit a stylist. Trying to re-dye your hair a lighter shade will most likely come out wrong and cause extensive damage to your hair. Avoid re-dyeing if your hair is severely damaged. Hair that is dry, breaking, or has excessive split ends needs a break from processing. No matter how much you want to change up your look, applying dye to damaged hair will only make it look worse. Instead, apply a deep conditioner and make an appointment with a stylist, who can help you determine when and if you can safely re-dye your hair. Signs you have damaged hair include split ends, loss of bounce, excessive tangles, and dry, brittle strands. Use a color-stripping product to remove unwanted color. You may want to remove the old color before you try to re-dye your hair, especially if you're making a big change. These products remove dye already on your hair so that the new color can absorb into your hair. Using a color-stripper will allow you to make bigger changes in your hair color because you can start fresh. Otherwise, you will be applying dye on top of dye, which can make it harder to get the color you want. You can find an at-home color stripper at a beauty supply store, or you can visit a salon to have a professional treatment applied. Wash your hair 24 to 48 hours before you plan to color. Your natural hair oils need time to build up on your scalp, so wait a day after washing your hair to apply the dye. The natural oils will protect your scalp and help the color absorb into your hair. Brush your hair to remove tangles and build-up. Run the brush through your hair for a few minutes before you apply the product. You need to remove tangles and excess hair product so that your hair dyes evenly. Your hair should be dry when you apply the dye. Apply vaseline around your hairline. Vaseline will help prevent the dye from staining your skin. You should use it on your face, ears, and neck. A thin layer is all you need to protect your skin. Wrap a towel around your neck. The towel will protect your clothes and skin from the dye. Secure the towel with a clip or rubber band so that it doesn't come off while you're in the middle of applying the product. Choose an old towel or one that is dark colored because the towel will most likely be stained by the hair dye. Lift your arms up to your hair a few times to make sure that the towel is secure and won't fall off while you're in the middle of dying your hair. Alternatively, you could use a hairdresser's cape if you have one. Put on gloves. You should wear gloves anytime you handle chemicals, such as those in hair dye. The gloves will protect your skin from chemical damage and staining. Latex gloves are your best choice. Most boxes of dye come with gloves. If you're allergic to latex, look for nitrile gloves to use instead. Separate your hair into four even sections. Sectioning your hair will allow you to apply the product evenly so that your hair doesn't come out patchy or streaky. Use hair clips to pin the hair into four even sections. Mix the dye according to the box. Following the instructions will help you use the product safely. Wait until you're ready to apply the product before you mix it. Read all of the instructions before you get started so that you won't skip any steps. You should also know how long your color will need to set before you put it on. Apply the dye to the sections. Start about ½-inch from your scalp and work your way through your hair. Coat your hair with the dye so that each section is completely covered. Continue applying the dye until each section is covered with dye. When you're finished, cover your hair in a shower cap if you have one. If you use a shower cap, it will hold in your body's natural heat, which helps the dye absorb faster. Allow the dye to set for the recommended time. Set a timer to make sure that you don't leave the dye on too long. Don't let the dye stay on too long because it can damage your hair. If you're covering gray, let your hair set for the longest amount of time allowed. Rinse out the dye using warm water. Avoid using shampoo since it can leach out some of the color. Instead, wait until the water runs clean, then apply a color-safe conditioner and rinse it out with cool water. Most dye kits come with a conditioner that you can use to add moisture back to your hair. Use a deep conditioner every few days. Since your hair has been dyed twice, it needs extra nourishment. A deep conditioner twice a week can help restore your hair's moisture after it's been depleted by repeated dye-jobs. Dye your roots only. Applying the dye to hair that you've already colored can cause the color to darken and your hair to become brittle from over treatment. Start applying the product on your scalp and work your way until you reach the end of the new growth. Leave the ends of your hair untreated. Don't stress out about a little bit of overlap where the new growth ends. That hair is still fresh and won't be as porous as the hair near the ends, meaning that it won't absorb as much color. Wet your hair when it’s time to wash it out. When your timer goes off and it's time to rinse, add a little water to your hair to slightly moisten the dye. However, don't remove it yet. Massage the color through your hair. Use your fingers to pull the color through the ends of your hair. Gently squeeze your hair to re-activate the dye, bringing it down through your ends. This works well to refresh your color when you're reapplying the same shade, but it won't darken your hair. If you want your hair darker, you'll need to leave the dye on your hair for at least 20 minutes. Rinse out the dye after two minutes. Use warm water to cleanse away the dye. Continue rinsing until the water runs clean. Use a color-safe conditioner to restore moisture to your hair. Most kits include a conditioner for you to use after you dye your hair. Avoid shampooing your hair for 72-hours after dyeing. Apply conditioner to your ends if you’ve dyed your hair often. If you don't need to refresh the color on your ends and are afraid that they will darken when you do your roots, apply conditioner to the bottom of your hair so that the dye can't absorb. This will help you preserve your color on the part of your hair you want to avoid dyeing. Avoid using boxed hair dye over a professional dye job. Boxed dyes are more drying than professional dyes, so they will increase the damage on your hair. Not only that, but the compounding of color can make it hard to predict the results. Once you've added the boxed dye, it will be hard for anyone to fix your hair color if you don't like the results. Your stylist may be able to gently change the color by applying a toner rather than re-dying it, so talk to them before you try anything drastic. See a stylist if you’ve already tried to re-dye your hair once. If you've already tried to re-dye your hair once and don't like the result, don't try another home dye job. This could damage your hair, and the color won't come out right since you already have two dyes on your hair. Tell your stylist that you’ve already colored your hair. Provide your stylist with a complete hair history so that they can give you good advice on how to proceed. If you don't tell your stylist that you've already used dye, your hair may not come out as expected. Trust your stylist to help you make the best choice to keep your hair healthy. Tell them how many times you've dyed your hair, as well as how often. Say, “I've already used two different box dyes. I put the first one on three weeks ago, and last week I tried to fix the color.” Explain what you don't like about your current color so that they can help fix the issue you're having. Say, “I don't like how brassy my hair looks.” | Wait at least two weeks before applying another color. Choose a darker shade for a better result. Avoid re-dyeing if your hair is severely damaged. Use a color-stripping product to remove unwanted color. Wash your hair 24 to 48 hours before you plan to color. Brush your hair to remove tangles and build-up. Apply vaseline around your hairline. Wrap a towel around your neck. Put on gloves. Separate your hair into four even sections. Mix the dye according to the box. Apply the dye to the sections. Allow the dye to set for the recommended time. Rinse out the dye using warm water. Use a deep conditioner every few days. Dye your roots only. Wet your hair when it’s time to wash it out. Massage the color through your hair. Rinse out the dye after two minutes. Apply conditioner to your ends if you’ve dyed your hair often. Avoid using boxed hair dye over a professional dye job. See a stylist if you’ve already tried to re-dye your hair once. Tell your stylist that you’ve already colored your hair. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Polish-a-Car | How to Polish a Car | Before you polish your car, wash it thoroughly so there is no dirt or debris on the vehicle that can leave swirls or scratches in the paint when you polish it. When the car is clean, wet a polishing pad with water and wring it out, then apply a moderate amount of polishing compound to the pad. Turn on the polishing wheel and press the pad into the paint of the vehicle. Maintain an even amount of pressure on the wheel as you move it back and forth along the panel you are working on. Once you can see the shiny paint, move on to the next area, rinsing the pad as necessary. | Park your car in a shaded area. The first step to polishing your car is to wash it, and you should always wash a vehicle in a shady area. Direct sunlight could cause the soap you use to dry onto the paint, which will dull the finish. Find a place that keeps the entire vehicle out of direct sunlight and park it there. Make sure you park the vehicle on a solid surface. Dirt or grass are not recommended, as you may get mud on the car after you wash it. An overcast day is a great time to wash and polish your car, as long as it doesn't rain. Cover or move things you don’t want to get messy. Polishing the car can be a messy process. When you turn the polisher on, it may spray rubbing compound as it starts to spin. Make sure your pets are inside and there's nothing around the vehicle that you can't get sprayed with some loose polish. The polish will wash away easily, but you may not want to clean some things. Keep children and pets away during the polishing process. Rinse the entire vehicle with a hose. Spray water all over the entire vehicle to prepare it for you to hand wash it. If possible, use the water to remove any large bits of debris or dirt that are stuck on the paint of the car. Start from the top and work your way down to the bottom of the vehicle as you rinse it. Make sure to rinse the wheels and bottom portion of the car thoroughly, as it's where dirt and mud are most likely to stick to the paint. Clean your wheels and tires first if you intend to. If you intend to wash your wheels and tires on the same day that you polish the paint, make sure to clean them first. Use a different sponge and bucket to clean your wheels than you use on the car's paint. You may get harsh wheel detergents on the paint of the vehicle when cleaning your wheels, so doing so first will allow you to clean the detergents from the paint. Rinsing the wheels may also splatter dirt or mud onto the paint you can then wash off. Wash the car with automotive soap. Fill a bucket with water and a small amount of automotive soap. Choose a soap that does not have wax or polish in it. Dunk a clean sponge into the bucket and begin washing your car from the top and work your way down.. Rinse the sponge in the bucket or with your hose as necessary. Make sure to clean the paint on your car thoroughly before you polish it. Any debris or dirt on the paint could result in damaging swirls or scratches when you begin the polishing process. Choose the appropriate pad and compound for your car. Dark colored vehicles are more prone to swirling the paint when you polish your car, so use a softer pad and compound if your vehicle's paint is dark. You can use more aggressive pads and compounds on lighter color cars with little issue. You can purchase pads and compounds at your local auto parts store. The two often come in kits. Use a damp pad and a polishing wheel on the compound. Take the pad for your polishing wheel and get it wet using clean water. Wring it out so it remains damp, but not soaking wet. The pad must stay damp through the polishing process to avoid damaging your car's paint. A dry pad will burn the clear coat on your car. Keep a bucket of clean water or a hose nearby throughout the polishing process. Apply rubbing compound one body panel at a time. Put a moderate amount of polishing compound on the pad, then turn on the polishing wheel and press it into the paint of the vehicle. You may also apply the compound directly onto the body of the car, then bring the polisher to it. Read the instructions on the specific polishing compound you purchased, as some may have specific steps you'll need to take for the best result. Once you finish one body panel, then move on to the next one. Move the wheel back and forth with steady pressure. It is extremely important that you keep the polishing wheel parallel to whatever body panel you are currently polishing. Maintain an even amount of pressure over the wheel as you move it back and forth along the panel you are working on. Applying steady, constant pressure will reduce chances of damaging your paint. The polishing wheel will be spinning, so you need only move it back and forth. Move on when the bright finish of the paint is visible. As you polish the paint on the vehicle, the polishing compound will swirl and smear, then slowly disappear, leaving only the brilliant shine of the paint behind. Once you can see the shiny paint, you can move on to the next area and continue polishing. Unlike waxing the vehicle, you do no not need to wait for the polish to dry. Don't continue to polish shiny paint, as you may dull the finish. Rinse the pad as necessary. As you polish the vehicle, the polishing compound will begin to build up on the pad. Stop polishing occasionally to rinse the compound off of the pad, then wring the pad out again so it remains damp and fairly clean. Once too much polish compound on the pad it will compromise its polishing ability. Remember to keep the pad damp throughout the process. Be careful around intricate trim pieces. The edge of the pad on the polishing wheel moves the fastest and usually comes into contact with the least of the rubbing compound, so it poses the biggest risk of burning the clear coat on your paint. As a result, be extremely careful as you buff around trim components that may come into contact with the edges of the pad. Take your time and avoid pressing the edge of the pad into any part of the car's paint. Be patient and rub polishing compound out of grooves the polishing wheel can't reach. Wash and rinse the car again. Once you have polished every panel on the body of the car, clean the polishing pad thoroughly and set it and the polishing wheel aside. Spray the entire vehicle down with a hose and wash the entire car again. Be sure to wash away any polishing compound that remains on the vehicle. Rinse the car thoroughly after you're done washing it. Allow the car to dry. The paint on your car will need to be dry before you can wax it. You may dry the vehicle using microfiber towels if you'd like to expedite the process. If you have hard water, allowing the water to air dry could leave small spots on the paint, so you may want to use towels to keep water spots from forming. If you dry the car with towels, start from the top and work your way down. Ensure the paint is completely dry before moving on to waxing. Apply a coat of wax to the car’s paint. Use a good quality automotive wax to protect the newly polished paint and ensure it has a bright, shiny finish. Put some wax on the pad that comes with it and apply it to your car in a circular motion. Wax the entire vehicle , as the polishing process can leave the paint unprotected from the sun. Apply the wax one body panel at a time as well. Make sure the vehicle is not in direct sunlight while waxing. Polish the wax off with a microfiber towel. Once the wax has dried, buff it off of the paint using microfiber towels. You can tell the wax has dried sufficiently by touching it with a bare finger. If the wax wipes off easily beneath your finger, it is dry and can be buffed off the vehicle. Once you have buffed off all of the wax, the paint will have a brilliant shine and finish. | Park your car in a shaded area. Cover or move things you don’t want to get messy. Rinse the entire vehicle with a hose. Clean your wheels and tires first if you intend to. Wash the car with automotive soap. Choose the appropriate pad and compound for your car. Use a damp pad and a polishing wheel on the compound. Apply rubbing compound one body panel at a time. Move the wheel back and forth with steady pressure. Move on when the bright finish of the paint is visible. Rinse the pad as necessary. Be careful around intricate trim pieces. Wash and rinse the car again. Allow the car to dry. Apply a coat of wax to the car’s paint. Polish the wax off with a microfiber towel. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Color-Damaged-Hair | How to Color Damaged Hair | Before you color your damaged hair, get a trim to remove split ends, which will help strengthen your hair. You should also condition your hair more often to ensure it's well hydrated, since coloring hair can cause it to dry out. When it comes to choosing your hair dye, go for one that's free from ammonia and contains oil jelly or other moisturizers, which will make it less harmful. Try to use as little product as possible, since large quantities of dye are more like to cause further harm. Remember to avoid lightening your hair if it's damaged, since creating a lighter color requires a lot of damage to the cuticle. | Get a trim. Before dyeing hair that's already damaged, get a trim. This will help remove split ends, which can keep your hair healthy in the long run. Condition more aggressively. In the weeks leading up to coloring your hair, go for a more aggressive conditioning regimen. An extra hydrating conditioner can help prevent future damage to you hair. Use an extra hydrating conditioner daily, a deep conditioner once a week, and use a leave-in conditioner on hot days to prevent your hair from drying out in the sun. Start using a shampoo and conditioner for color treated hair because they're gentle and moisturizing. Switching your hair products now will also ensure that you have the right products after coloring. Use protein treatments. Protein treatments can help strengthen and replenish damaged hair. You can get protein treatments done at a salon or buy protein treatments to do at home. You should only do protein treatments every one to two weeks. Otherwise, they could make your hair more brittle. Protein treatments are similar to hair masks. You saturated the hair with the protein treatment, let it sit for a set period of time, and then rinse it out. Make sure that you follow all of the instructions for using the protein mask. Leaving the product on for too long can cause your hair to become brittle. Use a hair mask. The day before coloring your hair, purchase a deep conditioning hair mask from a salon or department store. Apply the mask to your hair and leave it in for the recommended time frame before washing it out. This will ensure your hair is adequately hydrated prior to dyeing, minimizing further damage. If you're getting your hair done at a salon, ask your stylist for a recommendation for a hair mask. They will probably have some experience working with damaged hair and can give you a good recommendation depending on the kind of dye job you're getting. Natural ingredients that are good for the hair include things like olive oil, milk, honey, and coconut oil. Select a hair color made for damaged hair. Look for hair colors that are specifically designed for use on damaged hair. Look for ammonia-free products that have nourishing additives like royal jelly. Moisturizing dyes are also great for damaged hair. Demi-permanent is also generally better than permanent for damaged hair. Avoid attempting to lighten your hair. If you're dyeing damaged hair, do not attempt to lighten it. Going from something like brunette to blonde requires a lot of damage to the cuticle. Go for shades darker than your natural hair or simply try to cover grays and roots. It is never a good idea to lighten damaged hair. Wash and condition your hair the day before coloring. Hair that is free of product buildup will better absorb the color, but you also want to allow enough time for your natural oils to create a protective barrier on your scalp. Wait at least overnight after washing before dyeing your hair. Focus mostly on your roots. If your hair has already been dyed, focus only on touching up the roots. Avoid applying dye throughout your hair, as hair that's already damaged may dry out further with excess dye. In general, the less coloring the better when dealing with damaged hair. See a stylist, if possible. While many people can use box hair colors successfully, treating damaged hair of any kind is tricky. As color always causes damage, it's a good idea to see a stylist if you're going to be coloring damaged hair. A stylist will know how to best minimize further damage when coloring hair. Use a renewal mask. Invest in a quality renewal mask after dyeing your hair. Once a week, apply the mask throughout your hair and leave it in for the recommended timeframe before washing it out. This will help re-hydrate your hair, minimizing damage done by coloring. If you got your hair colored at a salon, ask your stylist to recommend a renewal mask. Buy a color-protecting shampoo. After dyeing your hair, use only a color preserving shampoo to avoid stripping away the dye. The better you protect your color, the less often you'll need to touch up your hair. As dyeing always causes damage, it's always a good idea to dye damaged hair as little as possible. Shampoo infrequently. Infrequent shampooing can also keep your hair color intact longer. Only shampoo every other day and no more than two to three times per week. This will minimize your need for follow up treatments, preventing further damage from excessive dyeing. | Get a trim. Condition more aggressively. Use protein treatments. Use a hair mask. Select a hair color made for damaged hair. Avoid attempting to lighten your hair. Wash and condition your hair the day before coloring. Focus mostly on your roots. See a stylist, if possible. Use a renewal mask. Buy a color-protecting shampoo. Shampoo infrequently. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Pack-Clothes-in-a-Backpack | How to Pack Clothes in a Backpack | Clothes can take up a lot of space in your backpack, but by using the army rolling technique, you can store them more efficiently. To roll t-shirts, start by laying them flat on a surface and fold the left side into the center. Fold the sleeve back on itself, then do the same with the other side. Once you've folded both sides, fold the t-shirt vertically and roll it into a tight bundle. Use a similar technique to roll your underwear and roll your socks into balls too. If you're packing shoes, fit your underwear and socks inside them to save space. Instead of rolling pants, fold the legs together, then fold them in half horizontally twice. When you're packing your clothes into your bag, put light items, like t-shirts, at the bottom of the bag so heavier items will squash them down. | Use the army roll technique to store shirts. Lay your shirt out on a table and turn the bottom 6 inches (15 cm) inside out. Make sure this inverted section is flat and straight. Take the left side of the shirt and fold it towards the centre. Once centred, fold the sleeve back onto the folded shirt portion. Then, do the same to the other side so that the shirt is no thicker than 6 inches (15 cm) wide. Take the collar of the shirt and start rolling it up as tight as you can until it's completely rolled. Holding the finished roll, use the inverted section of the bottom of the shirt to secure the roll of the shirt. Rolling clothing is great for keeping clothes compact, but it can result in more wrinkles in the clothing than traditional folding. Roll pairs of socks into small bundles. Stack 2 socks on a surface. Fold the top end of the sock back on itself for 2 inches (5.1 cm). Then, from the toes of the socks, roll them up until they're a tight bundle. Then, use the top end of the lower sock in the bundle and wrap it around the entirety of the rolled socks for a neat package. Store underwear in neat rolls. Lay the underwear out on a table. Invert the waistband of the underwear about 3 inches (7.6 cm). Then, fold both edges towards the middle so that they're both parallel to each other. Roll the bottom of the underwear up to the top of the waistband, then like the socks and the shirt, use the inverted section to wrap the underwear into a compact bundle. Store a shirt, underwear, and socks into a single bundle to save space. Lay out the shirt on a flat surface. Then lay folded underwear and 2 stacked socks into the chest area of the shirt. Fold in the bottom of the shirt around 4 inches (10 cm). Fold both sides of the shirt towards the middle and over the underwear and socks. Roll the shirt from the collar downwards as tight as you can, then use the inside out section to wrap the entire package. Fold a a skirt to avoid wrinkles. It's hard to roll a skirt in the same way you can roll shirts, underwear and socks. However, folding a skirt means there will be less wrinkles. Lay the skirt out on a flat surface, fold it lengthwise, then in half. Then, tuck it down the side of your bag where it'll stay secure. Fold pants and shorts to keep them wrinkle free. Pants and shorts are also more difficult to roll. Instead, hold them by the waistband and fold them in on themselves, back pocket to back pocket. Lay them on a flat surface, bring the crotch area in towards the center of the leg, then fold the pants from the ankle cuff in halves or third depending on how compact you need them to be. Try using clothing folder for flat storage of clothes. A clothing folder is a mesh folder than you can open up and store clothing in with the goal of minimizing the amount of wrinkles in the clothes. Each folder should come with a folding board that will help you fold your clothing so they're not wrinkled and save space. For example, lay a shirt face down on a flat surface, then put the folding board on the top side of the shirt so that it covers the collar. Fold both sides and sleeves over the top of the board then fold the bottom of the shirt back onto the board. Then, put the folded product inside the clothing folder. Sort all your items by weight. Lay every item you want to put into your bag across a flat surface. Then, from left to right, lay out your items from lightest to heaviest. Double check you have everything at this stage, because if you pack it all and forget something you may have to unpack everything again. Store as much as you can within the soles of shoes. Shoes offer lots of protection for items that can fit inside them. Store pairs of socks, underwear, or even rolled up shirts inside of shoes to keep them safe and to save space elsewhere. Store all light items at the bottom of the bag. Put all spare shoes, sleeping bags, and general accessories that you won't access frequently at the bottom of the bag. Putting all the light clothing at the bottom of the bag means that they will be able to squish down once you put heavier clothing on top of them. Put all heavy items like camping essentials in the center of the bag. If you are camping this is where you should store all essential supplies such as pots, pans, stoves, and camping gear as well as any precious electronics that you can't do without. You will be accessing this area of the bag at least once a day. By placing all these items in the middle of the bag, they are receiving the maximum amount of cushioning by the clothing at the bottom and the clothing that will be on top. Place all medium weight items at the top of the bag. You will be accessing the top of the bag frequently, so put anything here that you'll need on a daily basis. This could be hats, jackets, umbrellas, or extra layers depending on the situation. By putting these items at the top of the bag, you'll be able to protect yourself from the elements as soon as possible. Buy a compression dry bag if you're camping. A compression dry bag is a special kind of backpack ideal for camping and storing clothes. When you put the clothes inside and close it, the bag will remove as much air as possible from the interior of the bag, giving you more space to store. The bag will also protect your clothing from rain, so it's ideal if you are camping. Store your clothing using packing cubes. Packing cubes are small plastic cubes with zips along the side that allow for efficient storage of your clothing. Use the rolling and folding techniques discussed earlier to get your clothing as small as possible. Then put them inside the cubes. Treat the inside of your bag like a game of Tetris. You can stack the different sized cubes in many different ways, but they'll always protect the clothes. Packing cubes are great for unpacking and packing your bag again quickly, so they are ideal for long term travel. Select the correct kind of backpack for your form of travel. The most important equipment choice is what sort of backpack you are going to use. Different backpacks can serve many functions depending on your needs. If you are going on a hiking trip, you will need a backpack that is waterproof so that your clothes will stay safe inside. If you are travelling for a long period of time, you will need a backpack that has many different compartments so that you can store your clothing as efficiently as possible. Travel backpacks are usually padded as well which can offer extra protection for the contents. If you're staying a short while at a friend's house and need a spare change of clothes, a normal backpack combined with the packing tips discussed earlier will suffice. Store toiletries and liquids in separate pockets. Most backpacks will have outer pockets and zips to store smaller items in. If possible, put all your toiletries and liquids into these pockets away from your clothes. This means that if there's an accidental spillage your clothes won't be ruined. | Use the army roll technique to store shirts. Roll pairs of socks into small bundles. Store underwear in neat rolls. Store a shirt, underwear, and socks into a single bundle to save space. Fold a a skirt to avoid wrinkles. Fold pants and shorts to keep them wrinkle free. Try using clothing folder for flat storage of clothes. Sort all your items by weight. Store as much as you can within the soles of shoes. Store all light items at the bottom of the bag. Put all heavy items like camping essentials in the center of the bag. Place all medium weight items at the top of the bag. Buy a compression dry bag if you're camping. Store your clothing using packing cubes. Select the correct kind of backpack for your form of travel. Store toiletries and liquids in separate pockets. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Sue-for-Trespass | How to Sue for Trespass | If a person enters your private property without permission, you can sue them for trespassing. To bring charges, you have to own, rent, or lease the property and be able to identify the trespasser through photographs or a video of the incident. If you're relying on memory, write a detailed description of the person. When you're ready to file your lawsuit, request a blank complaint form from your local court. Request an injunction relief too, which prohibits future trespassing and lets you seek police action if it occurs. When you're done filling out the paperwork, file the complaint with the clerk and pay the filing fee, which is typically between 100 and 300 dollars. | Establish proof of ownership. You must have ownership rights in the property that has been invaded. You may own the property outright, rent it, or lease it. A trespass lawsuit may be brought for trespass to real estate, which is called “real property,” or trespass of personal movable property, which is called “chattels.” Gather proof of ownership. A copy of your deed, mortgage, lease or rental agreement will satisfy for real estate. For some chattels, like a vehicle, you may also have the title. If the chattel is something like a personal laptop computer, then you can prove ownership in other ways. For example, witnesses can testify that they have seen the object in your possession repeatedly. Sometimes the chattel may have your identifying features that show that you own it. For example, a laptop may be full of your electronic files. Establish the boundaries of your property. If you are suing for trespass of real property, then you need to know the full extent of the property. The deed should have a description of the property. Find your copy of the deed at the county clerk's office, where deeds are recorded. Better yet, you should have the property professionally surveyed, especially if you think trial is unavoidable. Get a copy of your deed and then contact local survey firms, listed in the yellow pages or on the internet. Ask the trespasser to leave. If you see the trespass occur, you should ask the person to leave. If you witness repeated trespasses but do nothing, a court might infer that you have consented to the trespass. Always exercise caution when approaching strangers, and try to have someone with you when you confront a trespasser. If you don't wish to speak to anyone, post “No Trespassing” signs. Make sure they are clearly visible. Document the individual. You will be required to identify the trespassing person. To sue, you need to be able to identify him or her, even if you don't personally know the individual. Photographs or a video of the incident will work best to prove your case. If relying on memory, write a detailed physical description of the person. Also note any vehicles and license plate numbers. Document each incident. Keep track of each offense to present to the court. Write down days and time. Greater penalties can be sought if the individual has trespassed on your property without permission multiple times, especially if trespassing occurs after you've already filed a civil complaint. To bring a suit for trespass to a chattel, the defendant must have substantially interfered with your use of the property. The chattel must have been damaged, or you must have been dispossessed of the property or deprived of its use for a substantial amount time. For example, if your sister borrowed your sweater for one hour and returned it undamaged, you would not be able to sue her. But if she “borrowed” your jacket for a substantial amount of time (such as one month), then you could sue her. Find witnesses. Witnesses can help identify the individual but also testify at trial. Ask neighbors who can see your property if anyone has been trespassing on your land. Obtain signed witness statements from these neighbors documenting the dates and times they saw an individual trespassing and descriptions of the trespassing individuals. Prove property damage. You can be compensated for damage caused by the trespass but you must prove it. Take photographs or write detailed descriptions of any property damage that has occurred as a result of trespassing. This documentation can be used as evidence in your lawsuit. Have the damage appraised. If someone took your car and wrecked it, then you should get a professional appraisal. Locate the correct court. If you do not sue in the correct court, your lawsuit will be dismissed. Generally, you will file in the court where your property is located. Depending on the amount you seek, you may file in Small Claims Court. There is a limit on the amount sought. In Illinois, you cannot seek more than $10,000, including all costs. Small Claims Court is designed for you to represent yourself. The rules are typically less formal and you will not need to present legal theories, only the facts. Prepare a civil complaint and summons. You can request a blank complaint form from your local court. You will need to fill in your name as plaintiff and the trespasser's name as defendant, then explain what happened and what remedy you seek. If the courthouse does not have a blank form, then try to find a blank complaint form on the internet or on a CD of legal forms. Request injunctive relief. Injunctive relief prohibits future trespassing and allows you to seek police action if it occurs. Injunctive relief can also protect you from expenses due to property damage caused by trespassing. Injunctive relief is typically not available in Small Claims Court. Request compensation for damages suffered. If someone has caused $5,000 worth of damage to your property, then you should also sue for that amount. Do not settle only for injunctive relief. File quickly. Trespassing complaints carry a statute of limitations, so your complaint may not be considered valid if you wait too long to file. Statute of limitations vary by state. In California, the limitations period is 3 years. In Illinois, it is 5 years. Have the complaint verified. Ask the clerk for stamped copies of the complaint. This will show when you filed it. File the complaint with the clerk. You will have to pay a filing fee, generally between $100 and $300. Be sure to retain three copies. Serve the defendant. The defendant needs notice of the lawsuit in order to respond. There are different ways to serve the defendant with notice. Sometimes you can mail the complaint if you have the trespasser's home or work address. Check your state's Rules of Civil Procedure to see if you can serve notice by mail. Generally, you should have the complaint personally served. You may use either the County Sheriff or a private process server. Each service will cost around $100. Stay open to settlement or mediation. A defendant may honestly not know that he has damaged your property and could offer to settle out of court. If your attorney is expensive or you are not sure of winning the case, then settlement might be right for you. Alternate dispute resolution, such as mediation, is also an option. Your local court may run a mediation program. Be sure to stop in and ask. Read the defendant’s answer. If the defendant is unwilling to settle, he must answer your complaint. Most likely, he will allege that he wasn't the one who trespassed or he will argue that he didn't damage your property. Attend pretrial hearings. If you do not have an attorney, then you will need to attend all pretrial hearings because you are representing yourself. You should listen carefully to any dates and what documents the court needs from you. If you fail to file necessary documents by the appointed time, then the defendant can move to have the case dismissed. Prepare for trial. If a court case is unavoidable, then prepare for it in the same manner as any other case. Gather your evidence, notify witnesses, and be confident. You will need documentation of damage and trespass as exhibits to use at trial. Fortunately, you compiled this information before filing the complaint. Issue a summons to each witness. The summons lists the day and time, as well as the location, of the trial. A summons must be mailed to or personally served on each witness. Participate in trial. If you have an attorney, she will do most of the work at trial: deliver an opening statement, examine witnesses, and make a final summation. An attorney is recommended unless you are in Small Claims Court. The amount of money at stake makes an attorney worthwhile. In Small Claims Court, you may get five minutes to explain the facts of your case. Practice explaining your case to friends or relatives so that you can speak effectively and efficiently in front of the judge, without stumbling. Collect judgment. If you win money damages, you should vigorously pursue the defendant for payment. If the defendant refuses to pay, then you should ask the Court for paperwork to start garnishment of wages. | Establish proof of ownership. Gather proof of ownership. Establish the boundaries of your property. Ask the trespasser to leave. Document the individual. Document each incident. Find witnesses. Prove property damage. Locate the correct court. Prepare a civil complaint and summons. Request injunctive relief. Request compensation for damages suffered. File quickly. Have the complaint verified. File the complaint with the clerk. Serve the defendant. Stay open to settlement or mediation. Read the defendant’s answer. Attend pretrial hearings. Prepare for trial. Participate in trial. Collect judgment. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Wash-Silk-Garments | How to Wash Silk Garments | If you need to wash a silk garment, fill a basin with cold water and add a few drops of a gentle detergent. Place the garment into the water and let it soak for about 3 minutes, periodically using your hands to gently agitate the fabric. After the 3 minutes, rinse the silk garment under cold water until you no longer see soap suds, then lay it flat on a soft, dry towel. Roll the towel from one end to the other with the silk garment inside, which will help to gently wring out and absorb any excess water. Hang the clothing up to dry. | Fill a basin with cold water. Most silk garments can be hand washed, even if the tag advises dry cleaning only. To begin washing the garment, fill a large basin or bowl with enough lukewarm or cold water to submerge the garment inside. Add a few drops of gentle detergent. Add in a few drops of gentle detergent to the basin of water. Try to use an all-natural or extra gentle brand to protect the gentle fibers of the silk. Then mix the water around with your hand to mix in the soap. You can also use baby shampoo if you don't have a fitting detergent. Let the garment soak for three minutes. Place the garment in the water of the basin and push it under the water once to get the whole garment wet. Then let the piece of clothing soak for about 3 minutes to let the soap interact with the garment. Agitate the garment around in the water. Take the garment and gently plunge it up and down in the water to move the water through the fabric and wash out any dirt or residue. This motion simulates the motion of a washing machine but is much more gentle. Rinse the garment in cold water. Remove the garment out of the water and pour the water down the sink. Then turn on the cold water and rinse the silk garment to wash out all the soap. Move the garment around under the jet of water to rinse the entire surface of the garment. Stop when you no longer see soap suds. Absorb the excess moisture with a towel. To begin the process of drying the silk garment, lay a clean towel out flat on a table or counter. Place the silk garment on top of the towel, then begin rolling the towel from one end to the other with the silk garment inside. Once you have rolled the towel all the way up, unroll the towel and take out the silk garment. Don't wring or squeeze the rolled towel, as this can damage the silk material. Hang the garment to dry. Hang the piece of clothing up to dry on a drying rack, making sure not to place it in direct sunlight, as this could fade or damage the fibers of the silk. Check that the tag recommends machine washing. Before you put a silk garment in the washing machine, check the tag to make sure that the garment can be machine washed. Machine washing a silk garment that isn't designed to be machine washed can wash out some of the color or damage the makeup of the silk. Load the washing machine. Once you have made sure that you can wash your silk garment, place the garment in the washing machine by itself or alongside other delicates. Use a mesh bag if you have one to protect the garment and prevent it from snagging on anything. Don't place any heavy pieces of clothing like blue jeans in with your garment. Also avoid adding any clothing with metal buttons or snaps that the silk could snag on. Start a delicate cycle. Adjust the washer to put it on a delicate cycle. Also make sure to choose the shortest spin cycle to so that the wash is as gentle as it can be for your garment. Add gentle detergent. As the water begins to fill up the washing machine, add in mild laundry detergent. Try to use natural and gentle detergent as opposed to detergent that contains brighteners or enzymes that could harm the silk. Soak up excess moisture after the wash. Once the wash is over, take the silk garment out of the washing machine. Spread out a clean towel on a counter or table and put the silk garment on top. Roll the towel with the silk garment inside from one side to another. Then unroll the towel and take the garment out. Hang the garment to dry. After soaking the excess moisture, lay the garment flat to dry or drape it over a drying rack. Don't place the drying rack in direct sunlight because this can fade the garment and damage the silk material. Hang the garment overnight. If you notice wrinkles in your silk garment, there are a few ways that you can remove the wrinkles without exposing your garment to high heat. If your silk garment only has minor wrinkles, use a plastic clothes hanger to hang the garment, making sure that the garment is hanging completely straight and isn't folded over on itself. Keep it hanging overnight and see if the wrinkles are gone in the morning. Hang the garment in the bathroom during a shower. If simply hanging the garment overnight didn't straighten out the wrinkles, keep the garment on the hanger and hang it from the towel rack in the bathroom while you are taking a shower. The indirect heat from the shower is a gentle way of straightening out wrinkles. Iron the garment on the “silk” setting. If you didn't succeed in getting out stubborn wrinkles, check the garment tag to see if it can be ironed. If so, dampen the silk garment in the sink and turn it inside out. Turn the iron onto the cool “silk” setting, then iron gently. Make sure to use a cool iron setting, because the hot setting can pucker or even burn the silk. | Fill a basin with cold water. Add a few drops of gentle detergent. Let the garment soak for three minutes. Agitate the garment around in the water. Rinse the garment in cold water. Absorb the excess moisture with a towel. Hang the garment to dry. Check that the tag recommends machine washing. Load the washing machine. Start a delicate cycle. Add gentle detergent. Soak up excess moisture after the wash. Hang the garment to dry. Hang the garment overnight. Hang the garment in the bathroom during a shower. Iron the garment on the “silk” setting. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Make-a-Flower | How to Make a Flower | To make a flower, start by cutting a 6 inch piece of craft wire and threading 6 teardrop beads onto it. Then, make a small loop out of the wire so you have a pencil-sized gap in the middle. Next, thread the ends of the wire into the beads, and wrap the ends over the top to hold them in place. After that, thread the wire through a larger round bead, and position the round bead in the center of the flower. Finish by twisting the ends of the wire around the bottom of the flower so they stay in place. | Cut a length of wire. Unwind roughly 6 inches (15 cm) of 0.5 mm brass craft wire. Cut the wire using side cutting pliers. If you choose to use smaller or larger beads for this project, the amount of wire you'll need will also change. The length of wire you cut should always be approximately twice as long as the combined width of your teardrop beads, if not a little longer. Thread the teardrop beads onto the wire. Feed six 1-inch (2.5-cm) long teardrop beads onto the cut length of wire. Ultimately, the pointed ends of all the teardrop beads must point in the same direction. The beads should also be positioned toward the center of the wire. You can alter the size of the teardrop beads as desired to create smaller or larger flowers, but the beads must all be the same size. Wrap the beads into a loop. Wrap the center of the wire into a tight loop, drawing the points of your teardrop beads together. There should still be some space at the center of the formed circle. The teardrop beads should be side by side, but they should still lie flat when placed on a flat surface. If you need help forming the loop, you can wrap the wire around a pencil or wooden towel. Secure each bead. Wrap the ends of the wire around one side of the top portion of each bead to help hold the beads in place. Feed one wire end into the hole of the bead, then wrap it over the top side of the same bead before feeding it back into the hole again. Repeat for all six beads. Wrap three of the beads with the right wire end and the other three beads with the left wire end. Note that the wrapped side of the beads will be the back of the flower. Feed the wire ends into the round bead. From the front of the flower, thread both wire ends through the center of a 3/8-inch (9.5-mm) round bead. Pull the wire ends until the round bead rests in the center of the flower structure. Pull the wire ends up from the back of the flower to the front. Direct the ends so that they cut through the center of the flower structure. Feed the right wire end through the right side of the round bead and the left wire end through the left side of the round bead. Pull the ends in opposite directions to draw the round bead down into the center of the flower. If you use smaller or larger teardrop beads, the round bead will need to be smaller or larger, too. Choose a round bead that roughly matches the width of your teardrop beads. Twist the wire. Draw the ends of the wire back down to the bottom of the flower. Twist them together beneath the round bead to secure the entire structure. If necessary, use round nose pliers to twist the wire tightly. Use as desired. You can use this flower to decorate jewelry or other crafts. Simply position the flower over your chosen backing and twist the excess wire ends over and around that backing to hold the flower in place. Once you've mounted the flower, use cutting pliers to trim the remaining wire. Hide the sharp wire ends beneath the beads. Cut nine lengths of wire. Use wire cutters to cut nine 9-inch (23-cm) lengths of jewelry wire. Each length of wire will be used to form one petal. You can create fewer or more petals as desired, but nine will allow you to make a simple rose. Bend each wire into a petal shape. Use your fingers to bend one wire into a 2-inch (5-cm) loop. Twist the ends together at the bottom of the loop two or three times to secure the shape. Repeat with all nine pieces of wire. To create smaller or larger petals, simply form smaller or larger loops. Cut squares of plastic. Use scissors to cut nine 4-inch (10-cm) squares of colored plastic. You need one square per petal. Each square must be large enough to wrap around the length and width of the petal frame. Plastic bag material works best for this, but you could also use cellophane or plastic wrap. For a completely different look, sheer colored tights could be used instead of plastic. Wrap the plastic over the wire frame. Center one wire petal frame over one plastic square. Wrap all sides of the plastic over the wire frame and twist the ends of the plastic together at the base of the frame. Try to keep the plastic as flat as possible as you stretch it over the frame. It will bunch up slightly as you twist it, however. Twist the ends of the plastic together like you would twist the paper onto a lollipop. Repeat with each wire frame and square of plastic. Secure the petal with floral tape. Wrap the twisted base of the plastic petal with a few layers of floral tape. Repeat with each petal. To make the petals look neater, you should also carefully trim away any plastic sticking out from beneath the bottom of the floral tape. Roll one petal. Take one plastic petal and carefully bend the wire around itself into a loose spiral. Roll the petal from side to side, leaving the excess wire hanging down to serve as part of the flower's stem. This petal will sit at the center of the flower. Wrap three petals around the first. Take a second plastic petal and position it next to the first rolled petal. Use your fingers to bend the wire slightly so that this second petal curves around the spiral center. Repeat this process with two other petals. All three petals manipulated in this step should overlap slightly and completely surround the spiral center petal. Wrap the wire ends around one another at the base of the petals as you work. You should only need to wrap the wires two or three times to keep the petals secure. Position the remaining petals. Arrange the remaining five petals around the entire center structure. Bend the wire of each petal slightly so that the entire petal curves gently around the center structure. These five petals should slightly overlap and must also completely surround the center structure. As before, you should wrap the wire ends around one another at the base of each petal as you work with it. Wrap the wire ends with floral tape. Hold all of the wire ends together, then wrap the bundle tightly with a long length of floral tape. Start at the petal base and wrap the floral tape in a spiral down the entire length of the exposed wire. Mold the tape around the wire and continue until all of the wire is covered, including the sharp ends. Wrap a pencil with green washi tape. Start toward the eraser end of the pencil and wind green washi tape all the way down to the graphite tip. You can use solid or patterned green washi tape. Wrap the washi tape in a slight downward spiral so that the layers just barely overlap one another. Pencils are the easiest option to use for this craft, but you could also use a wooden dowel trimmed down to pencil length, 7.5 inches (19 cm). Fold and cut the first wrapper. Fold one colored cupcake wrapper into eighths, then use scissors to trim the open edge into a rounded triangle. This cupcake wrapper can be any color and will be used to create petals. You will need to fold the cupcake wrapper in half three times. This will create a flower with eight petals. Alternatively, you can fold the wrapper in half four times and round off the top in a similar manner to create a flower with 16 petals. Repeat with four more cupcake wrappers. Repeat the folding and cutting step with four more cupcake wrappers to create four more layers of petals. To create an aesthetically even flower, use identical cupcake wrappers and cut the same number of petals for each one. If desired, you can also experiment by using different colors or by varying the number of petals. Cut the leaves. Fold a green cupcake wrapper into eighths, then round off one long edge. You will need to fold the wrapper in half three times. Round off the open long edge of the folded wrapper. Make sure that the point stays intact. Stack the layers. Unfold the cut wrappers and stack them on top one another. The green leaves should be placed on the bottom, but the petal layers do not need to go in any specific order. Turn the petal layers slightly so that there are no visible gaps when viewed from above. Consider using a small dot of hot glue in between each layer. Place the glue directly onto the center of one layer before placing the next layer over it. Attach the flower to the stem. Center the flower, leaf-side down, over the eraser of the wrapped pencil. Drive a small push pin through the center of all six flower layers and into the eraser. If you are using a wooden dowel or are otherwise unable to use the push pin method, simply adhere the bottom of the flower onto one end of the stem with a small dab of hot glue. Bunch the petal layers. Use your fingers to carefully gather and bunch up the petal layers toward the center of the flower. Continue manipulating the layers as desired to create the appearance of a full bud. Cut two large strips of fabric. The first strip should be 45 inches (114 cm) long and 4 inches (10 cm) wide. The second strip should be 45 inches (114 cm) long and 5 inches (12.5 cm) wide. Experiment with different types of fabric to produce different results. Most medium-weight or heavy-weight fabrics will be easy to work with, especially if they are fray-resistant. Avoid lightweight materials, stretchy materials, or materials that fray easily. Press the edges. Fold the long edges of both strips. Use a hot iron to press along the folded edges, holding them in place. For each edge, you should fold down roughly 1/4 inch (0.6 cm). The exact measurement doesn't matter too much for this project, but the fold must be even along the entire edge. Fold both strips in half. Fold both strips in half crosswise, halving the total length from 45 inches (114 cm) to approximately 22.5 inches (57 cm). Use an iron to press this fold, as well. Tie a knot with the thinner strip. Tie an overhand knot into one end of the thinner strip. Position the knot as close to the end as possible. This knot will give you a starting point for the rolls you'll need to form. It should also prevent this end of the material from fraying. Roll and twist the smaller strip around this knot. Roll the fabric around the knot one full rotation. After that, continue rolling the fabric behind the knot until you reach the end of the strip. Make sure that each consecutive layer stays behind the starting knot. The covered knot will need to be positioned at the top center of the flower. After the first few rotations, you will need to begin twisting the layers as you wrap them to create rounded points along the perimeter. Each layer should gradually extend further out, and the back of the flower should look fairly flat. Pin everything together. Insert a few straight pins through the stacked layers of the first strip to hold the entire thing together. Set this first strip aside temporary. Repeat with the second strip. Follow the same steps used to roll the first strip to roll the second, wider strip. Tie a knot on one end of the strip. Wrap the strip around this starting knot. Continue wrapping the strip around this point, twisting and stacking the layers as you go. Pin the layers together when you finish stacking them. The final circumference of this wider strip should be almost twice as large as the circumference of the thinner strip. Sew the two stacks together. Place the smaller stacked strip on top of the larger one, keeping the two aligned at the center. Use a sewing needle and thread to stitch the two stacks together. Thread the needle with thread that matches the color of the fabric. Start from the center of the flower and work outward, crossing across as many layers as possible. Keep your stitches hidden beneath overlapping layers. When you have stitched through the entire flower, tie a secure knot at the end of the thread. Check the layers. Remove all remaining straight pins and check the layers to verify that none of them are loose. Loose layers can be tacked together with a needle and thread or a dot of hot glue. | Cut a length of wire. Thread the teardrop beads onto the wire. Wrap the beads into a loop. Secure each bead. Feed the wire ends into the round bead. Twist the wire. Use as desired. Cut nine lengths of wire. Bend each wire into a petal shape. Cut squares of plastic. Wrap the plastic over the wire frame. Secure the petal with floral tape. Roll one petal. Wrap three petals around the first. Position the remaining petals. Wrap the wire ends with floral tape. Wrap a pencil with green washi tape. Fold and cut the first wrapper. Repeat with four more cupcake wrappers. Cut the leaves. Stack the layers. Attach the flower to the stem. Bunch the petal layers. Cut two large strips of fabric. Press the edges. Fold both strips in half. Tie a knot with the thinner strip. Roll and twist the smaller strip around this knot. Pin everything together. Repeat with the second strip. Sew the two stacks together. Check the layers. |
https://www.wikihow.com/End-an-Email | How to End an Email | To end a formal email, create a concluding sentence that summarizes your message in a concise and relevant way. Next, briefly express your gratitude for the reader's time and, if applicable, include a request for them contact to you. Then, sign off with a formal closing line like "Sincerely" or "Best Wishes." Finally, enter your full name and, if necessary, include any important contact information such as your phone number. | Reaffirm your purpose for writing. This isn't necessary for short emails or quick responses to someone's question. If you wrote a long email, though, or if you are dealing with multiple subjects or concerns, add a brief concluding sentence to summarize your information or request. If, for example, you are applying for a job, you may include information regarding your credentials and experience. You can then summarize your email by writing, “Based on my background and experience, I believe I would be an excellent candidate for this position.” Add a concluding line. In one sentence, conclude your email with an expression of gratitude or a request for contact. If you are reaching out to someone else, you may write, “Thank you for your time,” or “I look forward to meeting with you.” If you are responding to someone, you may close with, “Please feel free to contact me if you have any further questions.” The exact closing you use should use depends on the subject of your email. Just remember to keep your closing short, polite, and relevant to your email. Choose your sign-off. Sign-offs are always expected when ending a formal email. When you end a formal email, you want to pick a polite and respectful sign-off. Try a closing like “Regards,” “Sincerely,” “Thanks,” or “Best Wishes.” Avoid using shorthand or abbreviations. It is always best to write out full words in a formal sign-off. Try to avoid closings that are too close or formal. Sign-offs like “Love” are too personal for a formal email, while “Respectfully Yours,” is only appropriate when addressing government officials. Type out your full name. When you end a formal email, you always want to use your first and last name. You don't know how many people named John or Lisa the recipient knows. Adding your last name helps them recall you faster and more clearly. Give a reason for ending the email. Gently conclude your email by giving a quick closing remark before signing off. It should be friendly and does not have to contain a lot of detail. A sentence like, “Anyway, I need to to hit the books!” is a perfectly good closing remark. Keep the line of communication open. Add a quick statement letting your recipient know that you want to hear back from them. Writing, “Let me know if you need anything else,” or “I can't wait to hear what you've been up to,” is friendly and casual. Sign off. Ending an informal email can be much more casual than a formal email. Depending on your recipient, sign-offs can include: Love Cheers See you Yours Bye Sign your name. With an informal email, you typically don't need to sign your whole name. The recipient already knows who you are. It is perfectly acceptable to just sign your first name. If you are writing someone close to you, you can also use a nickname. If friends or family members call you by a nickname, it can be fun and friendly to use that when you sign off. Decide if a signature is necessary. If you are sending a personal email, there is no need for a signature. A signature block includes information including your title, your contact information, and your company or organization's information. Do not worry about including this information if you are sending an informal or personal email. Instead, just sign your name. Often, your company or organization will require a signature and they will let you know what information they require. Ask your company if they have a standardized signature block they want you to use. If your company does not provide a standard signature block, you can also copy a block from someone else in your organization and replace their contact details with yours. Add your information. Your signature block should include a few basic things. At minimum, it should have your first and last name, your title, your phone number, and your email address.You may also choose to include your company or organization's logo, website, and links to social media like LinkedIn, YouTube, and Facebook. If your company or organization does not have a standard signature format, follow this basic flow: Put your name first, followed by your title on the next line. Then, add your email and phone number, and put your company or group info last. Try to keep your signature short and simple. Use three or four lines of text. Add a logo instead of typing out your company name, and use a series of social network icons instead of typing out URLs. Be wary of including too much social media information. Links should go to your company's social media information. If your company does not have social media accounts, it is generally not appropriate to link to your own accounts unless expressly told to do so. Save your signature for repeated use. Most email clients including Gmail and Outlook allow you to save your signature so that you can add it with one click instead of typing it out. Check under your email settings to set up your signature. Many email clients have a simple “Signature” option under the “Settings” tab or icon. Type your signature, add your graphics, and save it for reuse. | Reaffirm your purpose for writing. Add a concluding line. Choose your sign-off. Type out your full name. Give a reason for ending the email. Keep the line of communication open. Sign off. Sign your name. Decide if a signature is necessary. Add your information. Save your signature for repeated use. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Treat-Arthritis-in-Cats | How to Treat Arthritis in Cats | To treat arthritis in cats, start by controlling your cat's food portions and consider feeding it a prescription diet, since obesity can exacerbate arthritis. Next, consider giving the cat glucosamine and chondroitin supplements, which you can get without a prescription at most pet stores. If your kitty is in a lot of pain, ask your vet for a prescription for meloxicam. You may want to inquire about Tramadol if meloxicam does not provide sufficient relief. | Understand that obesity is a risk factor for arthritis. Obesity is a risk factor for arthritis because carrying extra weight places an additional burden on the joints. Ideally, the cat should exercise gently, so as to keep the joints in use and as supple as possible. A managed weight reduction strategy such as a calorie controlled diet, or putting the cat onto a particular food, like the Hills Metabolic diet, is crucial in getting an individual animal to a healthier target weight and protecting its joints. Overweight cats are more likely to be couch potatoes and don't tend to move around much. This accentuates muscle loss and allows the joints to stiffen up. Manage the number of calories your cat eats each day. When it comes to weight loss, remember the phrase "calories in versus calories out". For a cat to lose weight it must burn more calories than it takes in. Since it is overweight you can guarantee that it is taking in too many calories. If it is a fussy eater and not amenable to switching onto a reduced-calorie food, then decrease its daily food allowances. To do this, weigh out its regular amount of food, and then decrease it by 10%. So if it normally gets 100 grams (3.5 oz) of kibble a day, cut this to 90grams. Reweigh the cat after 2-4 weeks on the new diet. If it has not lost weight then decrease the food by a further 10%, to 80 grams (2.8 oz), and so forth. Put your cat on a prescription diet. If the cat is a good eater, then try a prescription diet designed to help weight loss. Foods such as Hills RD or Purina OM, are calorie restricted and high fiber. The fiber fills the cat's stomach and helps it to feel fuller on small quantities. Keep in mind that this diet only works if the amount fed is matched to the target weight of the cat. If the overweight cat ate the prescription diet ad lib, it would not lose weight. These restrictive foods work by switching on genes that allow for a faster metabolism. Weighing the food is not necessary when using these foods, so it is a good option in a multi-cat household where you leave food out for all of your cats to snack on. Understand what nutraceuticals are. Nutraceuticals are food supplements that have a drug-like action. Nutraceuticals are usually side-effect free and safer than pharmaceuticals. Another advantage is that they are available without a prescription. Two nutraceuticals relevant to joint health are chondroitin and glucosamine. These two molecules are "synergistic", which means they have a greater effect when given together than either does by itself. Be aware of how glucosamine and chondroitin can help your cat’s arthritis. The theory behind glucosamine and chondroitin is that they provide the building blocks for cartilage repair and also improve the quality of joint fluid. The aim is to nourish cartilage and optimize its health to protect against further chips and damage. They also work to increase the viscosity (or thickness) of joint fluid which makes for better lubrication. There is a great deal of debate among veterinary scientists as to whether chondroitin and glucosamine can live up to these claims. However, a lot of animals do seem to benefit, and since the supplement is unlikely to do any harm (and if cost is not a factor) there is nothing to be lost by using this supplement. Give your cat glucosamine and chondroitin. Chondroitin and glucosamine are marketed in palatable veterinary formulations, though human supplements are also suitable for use in the cat. A typical dose is 500mg of glucosamine and 400mg of chondroitin, daily. For arthritic animals, the nutraceuticals must be taken for life. Talk to your vet about pentosan polysulfate. Pentosan polysulfate can be used in the treatment of early arthritis in cats. This is an injection given at weekly intervals for 3-4 weeks, by your veterinarian. Pentosan encourages cartilage repair (when the damage is not severe) by binding to the damaged cartilage and stimulating the synthesis of new glycosaminoglycan molecules that are needed for cartilage repair. Pentosan also inhibits a range of proteolytic enzymes which set up a vicious cycle of inflammation and pain in the damaged joint. The dose for a 5 kilograms (11 lb) cat is 0.4 milliliters (0.01 fl oz) by subcutaneous injection, once a week for 3-4 weeks, followed by monthly top-up injections. Do not give your cat human painkillers. Human painkillers are not safe for use in the cat and are likely to result in toxic liver failure. However, prescription medications are available that are safe for use in cats. The most common of these is meloxicam. This drug belongs to the non-steroidal anti-inflammatory group of drugs (NSAIDS). Get your cat a prescription for meloxicam. Meloxicam (Metacam) belongs to a family of drugs called NSAIDs (Non-steroidal Anti-inflammatory Drugs). Meloxicam works by inhibiting an enzyme, COX-2, which triggers prostaglandin release, which in turn limits the inflammation that causes further joint damage. Meloxicam is a useful drug to reduce the pain associated with arthritis. The safety margins of meloxicam have been closely studied in cats and the drug is licensed for long-term use in cats. The recommended maintenance dose is 0.05mg/kg of feline meloxicam once daily. Thus a 3kg cat needs 0.3 milliliters (0.01 fl oz) of cat Metacam. It should be noted that meloxicam is formulated in two strengths: For dogs (1.5mg/ml) and for cats (0.5mg/ml). Dog Metacam is three times more concentrated, and extreme care should be taken when considering its use in the feline as an inadvertent overdose may easily occur. Do not give meloxicam to a cat who is dehydrated. Meloxicam should only be used in well-hydrated animals. Dehydrated animals may have impaired renal function and the additional decrease in blood supply to the kidney may tip the animal into renal failure. Likewise, meloxicam must be given with or after food. If the cat is not eating, be sure to line its stomach by syringe feeding a small amount of food. Do not give Metacam on a completely empty stomach. The inhibitory effect on the blood supply to the stomach will be exacerbated and can lead to serious gastric ulceration. Meloxicam should not be given with or after other NSAIDs and is contra-indicated with steroid use. The latter can also cause gastric ulceration and the combined effect of the two medications is likely to cause gastrointestinal ulceration and bleeding, with possibly fatal blood loss. Give your cat Tramadol. Sometimes arthritic pain is so severe that meloxicam does not provide sufficient relief. For humane reasons to alleviate suffering, it may be necessary to add in an additional, albeit unlicensed drug. Tramadol is a drug from the opioid family and provides stronger pain relief. The drawback with tramadol is that the smallest capsule size is 10mg. This is fine for a 5 kg cat and above (the dose is 2mg/kg) but for cats weighing less than this, a 10mg may make them excessively sleepy, or sedated. Try acupuncture. The theory behind acupuncture is that specific regions of the body correspond to the function of a particular joint or organ. Inserting needles into these points is said to improve the function of the corresponding area. Theories as to how this happens relate to the release of natural morphine-like substances, called endorphins, and stimulation of nerve impulses which inhibit the transmission of pain. Some cats with arthritis do seem to benefit from weekly acupuncture sessions, and if they tolerate the needles, there are no adverse side effects to this therapy. Relieve your cat’s pain with heat therapy. Heat therapy is a useful tool in relieving the pain associated with arthritis. It involves the application of heat to the sore area, commonly in the form of microwaveable wheat bags. The theory is that the heat dilates blood vessels which then carry away lactic acid and other metabolites that accumulate around an inflamed joint. The heat also relieves muscle spasms and helps the animal to relax. A microwaveable wheat bag is ideal for this. Follow the directions on the bag's packaging and heat for the appropriate time. Then speak calmly to the cat, encourage it to lie down, and place the bag over the sore joint for five to ten minutes at a time. Give the cat a heated mat to sleep on. It will really love the warmth and it helps reduce the chilling on its joints that leads to stiffness. Talk to your vet about stem cell therapy. An exciting option for the treatment of arthritis is stem cell therapy. This differs from previous generations of therapies in that the principle is to encourage repair of damaged tissue, rather than merely treating the discomfort. This therapy involves harvesting fat from the cat's body, extracting stem cells from the sample, activating them in a laboratory, and then injecting the activated stem cells into the joints. Success rates of over 95% of cases showing some form of improvement are hugely exciting. Many animals are so improved a few weeks after treatment that they no longer need to take pain medication. | Understand that obesity is a risk factor for arthritis. Manage the number of calories your cat eats each day. Put your cat on a prescription diet. Understand what nutraceuticals are. Be aware of how glucosamine and chondroitin can help your cat’s arthritis. Give your cat glucosamine and chondroitin. Talk to your vet about pentosan polysulfate. Do not give your cat human painkillers. Get your cat a prescription for meloxicam. Do not give meloxicam to a cat who is dehydrated. Give your cat Tramadol. Try acupuncture. Relieve your cat’s pain with heat therapy. Talk to your vet about stem cell therapy. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Deal-With-a-Boss-Showing-Favoritism | How to Deal With a Boss Showing Favoritism | It can be frustrating if your boss shows favoritism towards your coworker, but you can handle the situation without making a big deal of it. Try scheduling a meeting with your boss and asking what you can do to gain more responsibility and progress faster in the office. This will show them that you're eager to learn and might shift the work balance around your office. Make sure you keep putting in extra effort to show your boss you're committed. Remain calm and polite with your coworker, even if they annoy you, since acting out will only look bad on you. If nothing changes after a while and you still feel like you're being treated unfairly, consider telling someone in human resources about the issue. They can help you analyze the issue and resolve any unfairness. | Decide if action is required. The first thing to do is calmly and rationally think through the whole situation. Is your boss really favouring somebody unfairly? Is it proving detrimental to the morale and productivity of you and your colleagues? You have to be completely honest with yourself and be certain that it's not just because the favourite is the best at her job. It's not unusual to feel jealous of someone who is having more success, so be sure you are not projecting your concerns about your slow professional progress onto someone else. Talk to colleagues. One good way to try to get some perspective on the issue is to talk it over with some colleagues to see if they share your perception of events. If you do this, it's very important that you tread carefully. Don't go throwing accusations around and don't try to convince other members of your team of your interpretation of the situation. Just ask for honest appraisals to better inform your judgement. It's important that you don't try and turn the rest of your team against the person you believe is being shown unfair favouritism. This will not endear you to anyone or help your case. Avoid turning it into a topic for office gossip or rumour and maintain your professionalism. Keep a record. To help you get a clear picture of what is going on, it's a good idea to keep a record of instances where you think you have been treated unfairly, or there has been unwarranted favouritism shown. This could include examples of the other person consistently receiving more interesting and engaging jobs to do, or a significant imbalance in the rewards for similar work. You may need this evidence later, but first of all think of it as a way to carefully analyse the situation and gain objective information. You need to be exceptionally honest and rigorous when you record such incidents. Consider your options. Once you have fully taken stock of the situation you should think carefully about what options are available to you, and what the likely consequences of any action would be. You should try to clearly envision what outcome you wish to achieve before you go any further. Keep in mind that it's important not to allow a toxic situation to fester. Prepare to speak to your boss. If you decide to speak to your boss about the situation, you should thoroughly prepare yourself before you approach her. If you feel like you are not being assigned tasks appropriate for your job, look through your job description and be ready to point out the discrepancies. Have some examples in mind, but think twice about bringing in your record in the first meeting, try to be more informal. Approach your boss. Sooner or later you will feel you need to speak to your boss about the situation. Once you are fully prepared, and confident you have a clear view of the situation, ask to meet with your boss for a chat. When you go to talk to them, try to be very diplomatic and don't accuse them of favouritism. If you feel like you are being constantly overlooked, it's immeasurably better to ask what you can do to contribute more and get more of these assignments. It is better to take a positive approach, making the situation about you and not the person you perceive to be treated as the favourite. You could ask "what can I do to gain more responsibilities?" Keep your cool and hold back any emotions when talking to the boss. Identify changes you can make in the first instance. Be patient and keep trying. After you have spoken to your boss hopefully you will see things begin to change. Try to maintain objectivity while making yourself available to meet your boss half-way. It can be difficult to change a work culture, and it takes effort from everyone. Be sure to put in lots of effort to engage with your boss and the rest of your team. Favouritism can develop through habit so it's important that you help create the conditions for new habits to develop. Get yourself a mentor or champion. One way to take positive action that isn't just tackling the issue with favouritism, is to find someone you like and respect in the company to act as a mentor or champion. Having someone support you and be happy to talk up your skills will help you counteract the negativity you get from your boss. A mentor can give you an advice and an essential second opinion. They can also act as an advocate if necessary. Consider speaking to HR. If there has been little or no noticeable improvement and you have given your boss every chance to improve the situation, it may be time to approach HR. For this, you will need to produce evidence to support your complaint, so bring the record you have kept. You may also consider asking a colleague, who is sympathetic to your concerns, to join you in the meeting. Maintain your professionalism. It's one thing if you perceive your boss to have an unfair favourite in the company, but it can be an equally difficult situation to deal with if you find yourself being treated as the favourite. Becoming too close with your boss can lead to numerous problems and it is important to maintain your professionalism at all times. Avoid becoming too familiar and remember that she is your boss first and foremost. Stay humble and professional with colleagues. Being the favourite can provoke negative feelings from your colleagues, and can strain relationships. Combat this by making every effort to involve your colleagues and praise them to your boss. Doing this will gently encourage her to show appreciation to more people in your team than just you. By doing this you are showing your colleagues that you are still part of the team, while also demonstrating humility and appreciation of the work of others. Making a point of highlighting the skills and potentials of colleagues can also be a good way to help develop a better functioning work environment. You're helping your boss manage the workload, but also helping your colleagues have the opportunity to prove themselves. Avoid the benefits of being the favourite. If you are the favourite it's important you do not in any way take advantage of, or abuse, this situation. In fact, you should be wary of potentially undeserved benefits. If you're given a big office ahead of more senior colleagues don't be afraid to mention to your boss that you're not sure if you have earned it. Casually saying "what did I do to deserve this?" can encourage your boss to re-evaluate her approach. Clear signs of favouritism and undue benefits are likely to prompt suspicion and even gossip amongst your colleagues. | Decide if action is required. Talk to colleagues. Keep a record. Consider your options. Prepare to speak to your boss. Approach your boss. Be patient and keep trying. Get yourself a mentor or champion. Consider speaking to HR. Maintain your professionalism. Stay humble and professional with colleagues. Avoid the benefits of being the favourite. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Present-a-Romantic-Gift | How to Present a Romantic Gift | The way you present a gift is just as important as the gift itself, and by setting the scene, you can make the moment even more special and romantic. If you're planning to give your gift in public, you can't go wrong with dinner at a nice restaurant. The tasty food and drink and dim lighting will help create a romantic atmosphere for you to present your gift. You could also set up a romantic scene at home by setting up some flowers and candles and playing some soft music in the background. If you're planning a surprise, try making it playful to build your partners excitement. For example, you could give pieces of a larger gift throughout the day or leave clues that they have to solve to get to the gift. No matter what you choose, if you put a lot of love and care into it, your partner will love it. | Choose if it’ll be a surprise, or you’ll create some nice build-up. Surprises make others tingly with excitement, while they make others feel anxious and overwhelmed. Decide which category your partner falls into. If you want the gift to be a total surprise, make sure you hide it well and act naturally before you give it to them. The less they see it coming, the happier they will be. If your partner is anti-surprise, let them know you have something special for them. They still won't know what the gift is, so it won't be spoiled, but they will be aware that you have something prepared. Decide if you want to give your gift in public or private. If you're presenting your significant other with lacy lingerie and a sex toy, consider giving them their present in privacy. If you think they'd enjoy getting a huge bouquet and a piece of jewelry at a romantic dinner, then present it that way. Some people love romantic gestures in public while others prefer sharing the moment alone, so just try to determine which your partner would prefer. Wrap your gift beautifully. By concealing the present in a gorgeous wrapping paper and placing it in a beautiful bag, your significant other will be even more giddy and excited at the moment of the big reveal. You can even increase the excitement and anticipation if you leave the wrapped gift in plain sight, before giving them the chance to open it. If you've purchased the gift from a store, ask if the clerk will wrap it up nicely for you. If you're on your own for this part head to a craft store to pick out the best wrapping supplies. If you're not a crafty person and don't know the best way to wrap the gift, check out YouTube! There are tons of tutorials on the best way to present a gift. Write a meaningful and sincere card. Often times, this can be the most memorable and touching part of a gift, so don't leave this until the last minute. Think about the occasion, reflect on your feelings towards the recipient, and don't be nervous about getting sappy. A perfectly written card is the cherry on top of the romantic gift. Flatter the person you're giving the gift to. Tell them all the reasons why you love them, and why they deserve this gift. Get nostalgic, and talk about special moments you've shared. Look forward to the future, and talk about what else you hope to experience with them. Putting in the effort to make a card personalized can make it a lot more special and memorable. Create a romantic atmosphere for the presentation of the gift. Whether you've chosen to present your gift in private or in public, make sure that you've set the mood. If you're at home, candles, flowers, and soft music are all great ways to create an intimate mood. If you want to give your gift in public, choose somewhere with dim lighting and a sexy vibe. Wine or champagne is a bonus in either scenario! Deciding the atmosphere that works best for your partner is absolutely the most important piece of advice, however. If your partner feels uncomfortable at swanky restaurants or is allergic to scented candles and flowers, use common sense. Worry less about creating the perfect “stereotypical” romantic evening, and more about making your partner feel loved and happy. Try presenting the gift in a playful way. Sometimes the process of giving and receiving a gift can be a gift all on its own! If your present consists of multiple pieces, think about giving it piece by piece throughout the day. This will keep your partner excited and feeling loved all day long. If you want to get really creative, construct a scavenger hunt for your love! You can give them clues that will lead them to their gift at the very end. Don't be shy to enlist the help of your lover's family and friends. They may be able to help you pull off a really fun and special gift presentation. Give your partner some explanation. Tell them why you chose that specific gift for them, and why you think they'll like it. This gives you an opportunity to show the thought and love that went into picking the gift. If you explained it all in the card, just instruct them to read that first. Your sweet explanation why you chose the gift may mean more to your partner than the actual gift. It's a chance to show them how well you know them. Prepare for any awkward mishaps. Remember, life is not perfect and something can go wrong that could make the situation slightly uncomfortable. When it comes to giving romantic gifts, that awkwardness could most likely arise if they aren't happy with the gift, or if they do not have a gift for you in return. If it's clear in their face that they don't like the gift and it's not something they enjoy, don't be afraid to address it. Tell them that you really want them to have a gift they will adore, and you'd love the opportunity to pick out something new with them. Reduce any tension by showing them you are not hurt, and that your intentions with the gift were good. If you expected a gift in return and don't get one, don't take it to heart. Smile and tell them that you loved getting them something, and that they shouldn't feel obligated or guilty that the gift-giving was one-sided. You can be upset, and maybe even address it, later, but don't ruin their gift by dwelling on your nonexistent one. Accept their gratitude graciously. It can ruin the mood if they are gushing their thanks and you brush it off. It can be uncomfortable to accept another's enthusiastic appreciation, but don't sour the moment by saying something like, “Ehhh, it was nothing.” Tell them that they are very welcome. Explain why you think they deserve the gift, and tell them you're happy that they enjoy it. If you want to be extremely romantic, tell them that every day with them is a gift and you're happy to return the favor! Pick the date you’ll give your gift. This may seem obvious— on your partner's birthday, on Valentine's Day, on your anniversary, or on another special date. However, if the romantic calendar date falls on a week day and you're celebrating on the weekend, you'll have to decide when you want to exchange gifts. If it's a “just because” gift, then you can give it whenever you think works best. If you opt to wait for your celebration with your partner rather than the actual date, make sure they know something special is coming so they don't feel like you forgot! Figure out which time of day works best to give your gift. You may see them on the morning of their birthday or your anniversary, but giving a romantic gift may work better at nightfall. However, if your significant other finds early morning to be the most amorous and dreamy time of the day, give them their gift then! Every couple is different, so consider your own personal style while planning the presentation. The most important thing is to decide when you think your partner would most appreciate receiving the gift. Be willing to change and adapt your plans for unexpected circumstances. For example, If your anniversary falls on a Saturday but you just found out that your partner's parents will be visiting all weekend, maybe you should consider presenting the gift early. If you're giving an extremely romantic gift, you don't want to create any discomfort or embarrassment by choosing the wrong time. Similarly, if you planned on giving your significant other a sweet letter and gift at dinner but they are having a rough morning, maybe give it to them early to help cheer them up. The important thing to do is to give your romantic gift when you feel like the timing is most perfect. Remember, plans are great, but they can be changed. It's your gift, after all! | Choose if it’ll be a surprise, or you’ll create some nice build-up. Decide if you want to give your gift in public or private. Wrap your gift beautifully. Write a meaningful and sincere card. Create a romantic atmosphere for the presentation of the gift. Try presenting the gift in a playful way. Give your partner some explanation. Prepare for any awkward mishaps. Accept their gratitude graciously. Pick the date you’ll give your gift. Figure out which time of day works best to give your gift. Be willing to change and adapt your plans for unexpected circumstances. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Become-ABA-Certified | How to Become ABA Certified | Becoming a certified applied behavior analyst can jump-start your career once you get the necessary training. You'll need to start off by earning a bachelor's degree in a related field like education, psychology, or social work. After your bachelor's, you'll need to earn a master's degree in behavioral analysis. During your master's, you'll complete a set amount of hours of practical work. Additionally, you'll need to complete 1,500 hours of independent fieldwork as an intern or employee. Once you've met the criteria, you'll be able to take the Behavior Analyst Certification Board online training module and sit the exam. | Obtain a bachelor’s degree in the field of your choice. Because you must have a master's degree in behavioral analysis to become an ABA, you will need a bachelor's degree first. While you are able to complete the degree in the field of your choice, it makes sense to major in a related field, like education, psychology, or social work. Complete graduate-level classroom hours for each ABA content area. Depending on the college or university you attend, the number of required classroom hours per content area will vary. Generally, expect to take a certain number of hours in the following areas: Ethical considerations Measurement of behavior and displaying and interpreting behavioral data Experimental evaluation of interventions Behavioral assessment and selecting intervention outcomes and strategies Behavior change procedures and systems support Definitions, characteristics, principles, processes, and concepts Discretionary behavior-analytic content Achieve a master’s degree in behavior analysis or a related field. The next step on your journey to becoming an ABA is to obtain a master's degree. While it's recommended that the degree be in behavioral analysis, you could choose another field approved by the Behavior Analyst Certification Board (BACB), such as another natural science, engineering, medicine, education, or human services. Do 1,000 hours of standard practicum. While you are completing your master's degree, you can enroll in a standard practicum through your college or university. In this practicum, you will get college credit as well as hands-on experience in behavior analysis. A board-certified behavior analyst must oversee 7.5% of the total required practicum hours. The practicum may include conducting behavioral assessments and/or analyzing data. Finish 750 hours of intensive practicum. The intensive practicum will also be overseen by your university, and must be approved by the BACB. An intensive practicum often includes working with children in a special education setting. A board-certified behavior analyst must oversee 10% of the total required hours. You may be required to write and revise behavior-analytic treatment plans and/or oversee the implementation of treatment plans during the intensive practicum. Complete 1,500 hours of independent fieldwork. This fieldwork will give you experience in behavior analysis and give you an idea of what a job in the field will be like. You can arrange to intern or work with a behavior analysis company to complete these hours. A board-certified behavior analyst must oversee at least 5% of the total required hours. During this fieldwork, you might oversee the implementation of behavior-analytic programs and/or design, implement, and monitor behavioral systems. Check your state’s certification and licensing requirements. The certification requirements for becoming an ABA vary by state, as there is no national certification program. Contact the Behavior Analyst Certification Board for your state to find out the specific requirements in your area. Some states may require licensing in addition to certification. In addition, some states will let you substitute relevant work experience for practicum. Take the online experience training module through the BACB. Before you can take the board-certified behavioral analyst (BCBA) exam, you must first pass an online, competency-based training module. This 8-hour module is available through the gateway on the BACB website: https://www.bacb.com/. Pass the BCBA exam. In order to become certified as an ABA, you must pass the board-certified behavioral analyst (BCBA) exam. Visit the BACB website to find available examination dates as well as information on the content and structure of the exam. For instance, you'll find that the BCBA exam is comprised of 150 multiple-choice questions and 10 ungraded “pilot” questions. Obtain a license, if required. Some states require ABA licensing in addition to certification. Though requirements vary based on location, to obtain a license you'll generally need to submit a fee, a licensing form, proof of education and experience, and an attestation of moral character. | Obtain a bachelor’s degree in the field of your choice. Complete graduate-level classroom hours for each ABA content area. Achieve a master’s degree in behavior analysis or a related field. Do 1,000 hours of standard practicum. Finish 750 hours of intensive practicum. Complete 1,500 hours of independent fieldwork. Check your state’s certification and licensing requirements. Take the online experience training module through the BACB. Pass the BCBA exam. Obtain a license, if required. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Catch-Bluegill | How to Catch Bluegill | To catch bluegill, use small hooks and bait, like worms or crickets, since bluegills have small mouths. Additionally, fish for them in shallow waters near the side of a lake or river in late spring and summer, or in deep waters during the winter. Once you're ready to start, attach a lightweight bobber about 2 feet from the hook, and cast out your line. When you feel a nibble, pull your rod up to set the hook, and reel in your catch. | Use small bait and hooks. Bluegills typically have very small mouths, so you'll need to use smaller bait and hooks. Crickets, worms, and grasshoppers make the best bait for bluegills. If you don't want to use live bait, you can use small artificial lures like woolly worms or woolly buggers in brown, black, and yellow. Use a number 6 or smaller hook so that the bluegill can actually bite down on it. Purchase a lightweight rod with a high action. Action refers to the ability for the rod to bend and is usually listed in the product details or packaging of a rod. Purchase a lightweight composite, graphite, or carbon rod that can bend. A rod that's too stiff can generate too much power and can actually pull the hook out of the fish. Purchase a 2–6 pounds (0.91–2.72 kg) monofilament line. Light monofilament is typically cheaper than heavier lines and is lighter and harder to see, making it an ideal choice for bluegill. Heavier braided line isn't necessary for the small fish. Use a small reel. An ultra-light or small spinning reel will work in conjunction with the light line and lightweight rod. Search for a reel that can accommodate at least a 6 pounds (2.7 kg) monofilament line. Ultra-light reels only weight 7–10 ounces (200–280 g). Popular reel brands ultra-light reel models include the Abu Garcia Orra SX 10, Shimano Sedona 1000FD, and Quantum Kinetic PTi. Get a light-weight bobber. Bluegill don't like to chase their prey, which is why using a bobber is a great setup to attract the fish. Bluegill will also let go of bait if the resistance is too high, so purchase a lightweight bobber appropriate for 6–8 pounds (2.7–3.6 kg) fish. Search for bluegill in deep waters during the late winter and early spring. When the temperature is 50–60 °F (10–16 °C), bluegill will seek deeper water for warmth. During these times, you'll most likely have to fish for bluegill in deeper waters, towards the center of a lake or reservoir. You may need to fish off of a boat or dock instead of fishing off the side of a lake or river. When fishing for bluegill during these seasons, set your bobber 5–15 feet (1.5–4.6 m), so that you can fish in deeper waters. Look for bluegill in shallow waters during the late spring and summer. The late spring and summer are the best time to fish for bluegill. When the temperature reaches 69 °F (21 °C), bluegill will move to the shallower water. During this time, look for bluegill in 1–2.5 feet (0.30–0.76 m) waters, as they are most likely to congregate there. This time of year is also bluegill spawning season, which means that there's likely more active bluegill than other times of the year. Fish for bluegill near weedy areas during the late summer and fall. As the temperature goes down, bluegill will seek the shelter of weedy areas during the summer and fall. Fish for bluegill along the edges of these weedy areas to catch them. It may also help to fish mid-day instead of in the morning or evening because the temperature will be highest during these times. Revisit known spawning sites. Bluegill will congregate in schools and will reuse spawning sites year after year. If you are fishing in a lake or reservoir that you're familiar with, you should revisit sites that you've had success with in the past. Bluegill spawn multiple times per season, so revisiting a site every couple weeks may be useful. Set up your line and hook on your rod. Attach the reel to the rod and pull your line through the loops on the bottom of the rod. Tie the end of your line to a hook. Spin the reel to make sure everything is working properly. Set a lightweight bobber 1–3 feet (0.30–0.91 m) from your hook. Press down on the hook on the bottom of the bobber to push out the hook on the top of the bobber. Wrap the line around the hook on the top of the bobber 1–3 feet (0.30–0.91 m) from the end of your line. Once the top is secure, press down on the top hook and wrap the line around the bottom of the bobber 2 times. When you release the hooks on the bobber, it should stay in place. Cast your rod. Press the release trigger and flick your rod in an upward motion to cast it out 10–20 feet (3.0–6.1 m) from where you are. You can fish from the shore, dock, or boat. If you're fishing mid-spring to mid-summer, make sure that you're fishing in shallow areas. You don't need to cast your rod far to fish for bluegill. Pull up on your rod when you feel a nibble. Bluegill are small, so reeling them in shouldn't require a lot of power. To set the hook, pull up on the rod when you feel a tug on your line. If you feel multiple small tugs and your bait is gone, it means that the bluegill ate the bait around the hook and you most likely need to use a smaller lure or bait. Reel the fish in. Once the hook is set, pull up on the rod and rotate the reel to pull the fish in closer to you. Then, grab the handle of the rod with one hand and use your other hand to lift the rod at its center. Lift the end of the rod up and pull the bluegill out of the water. Pull the hook out of the fish’s mouth. Grab the fish by the bottom of its body and use your other hand to carefully extract the hook from the fish's mouth. You can also use a pair of pliers to get the hook out if you prefer. Bluegill have very small teeth and their jaws are usually not strong enough to hurt anyone. Throw the fish back or store it in ice for later. If you want to eat the fish, you should keep bluegill that are at least 6–10 inches (150–250 mm) long. Store them immediately in a cooler with ice or they will go bad as you continue to fish. If you don't want to eat the fish or they are too small to eat, throw them back into the water quickly so that they don't die. Submerge the fish belly down in ice. | Use small bait and hooks. Purchase a lightweight rod with a high action. Purchase a 2–6 pounds (0.91–2.72 kg) monofilament line. Use a small reel. Get a light-weight bobber. Search for bluegill in deep waters during the late winter and early spring. Look for bluegill in shallow waters during the late spring and summer. Fish for bluegill near weedy areas during the late summer and fall. Revisit known spawning sites. Set up your line and hook on your rod. Set a lightweight bobber 1–3 feet (0.30–0.91 m) from your hook. Cast your rod. Pull up on your rod when you feel a nibble. Reel the fish in. Pull the hook out of the fish’s mouth. Throw the fish back or store it in ice for later. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Powder-Coat | How to Powder Coat | If you want to powder coat something, remove all of its threaded or lubricated surfaces so they don't get locked in place. Then, use abrasive blasting to clean off any rust, dirt, and foreign materials. Once the harder debris is gone, use a chemical solvent to remove grease or oil and then sand the surface if necessary. Next, use a compressed air sprayer to apply the powder coat and cure it at about 350°F for 10 to 15 minutes. | Determine the type of material you are going to powdercoat and then select a suitable powder for the finish. Powdercoating is done with thermoplastic or thermoset polymer powder, and these materials are formulated for bonding with different base metals to give the best results. See the next section for a detailed discussion of the differences between thermoset and thermoplastic coats. What's good for a car may not be good for a small trinket or decoration. Disassemble all threaded or lubricated interfaces before you begin, including anything you don't want coated. It sounds simple, but many people forget this step. The powder coat you apply will adhere to everything (if properly done) on your rig, making sealed surfaces, bearings, clamps, bolts and nuts, etc. useless after blasting. Clean the base metal thoroughly. Using bead or abrasive blasting on hard metal, such as cast iron or steel, will remove mill and rust scale, dirt and foreign materials. Chemical solvent cleaning will remove any grease, oil, or paint, and light sanding can be done to finish preparing the surface. Aluminum, magnesium, and other soft alloy metals can be solvent cleaned and wire brushed, or sanded if needed. For example, you might sand-blast whatever you want to powder coat until it's down to bare metal. This is the first step in the process. If you don't have access to a sandblaster, you can also use a wire wheel, bench-grinder, or even sandpaper. Just as long as you get the material down to bare metal. The next step is to strip the metal of any remaining grime or gunk. You can achieve this by soaking the item in acetone (if the item is small enough) or by wiping it with an acetone-soaked rag. Apply the powder to the object to be powder coated. This is done using a "gun" or compressed air sprayer which electrostatically charges the powder material so that it sticks to the grounded base metal object receiving the coating. These guns are available from various suppliers, and cost as little as $100. For experimental purposes, you can apply the powder to a flat metal surface by dusting it directly on, and spreading it to a thin, even layer. Make sure you have your electrostatic charge hooked up to whatever part you are coating. The powder you use won't properly adhere unless it's given a charge to hold onto. After applying the coat but before curing, be careful not to brush or blow on the powder coat, as this will cause some of the powder to fall off, leaving you with a less precise coat. Cure the metal at a temperature appropriate for the powder material you use. A conventional oven is suitable for this purpose if the metal is small enough to fit, otherwise, an infrared heat lamp or other flame less heat source needs to be used. Normally, the object is heated to 350° to 375° F (175° to 190° C) for about 10 to 15 minutes, and allowed to cool. You can use a conventional oven to powder coat smaller items. Just be sure that you won't be using the oven to cook food after the powder coating. Once you've used an oven to powder coat, it absolutely should not be used for cooking. Use thermoplastic coatings for items you might eventually remold, and thermoset coatings for items that will remain essentially permanent. The main difference between thermoplastic and thermoset is the reversibility of the coat. Like their name implies, thermoset coatings cannot re-melt after undergoing an irreversible chemical bonding process. Conversely, thermoplastic coatings can remelt because no chemical process takes place. Thermostat coatings are ideal for things like electronics and appliances because they need to withstand higher amounts of heat, which might cause thermoplastic coatings to melt. Choose thermotype based on some of the features of the coat. Thermosets and thermoplastics have different chemical properties, making them ideal for different uses. Knowing some of those properties can help you choose which type to coat with: Thermosets are said to reinforce the structural integrity of an item, making them particularly suitable for heavy wear-and-tear. They also supply the item with superior chemical and heat resistance, as mentioned above. Thermoplastics offer a mixture of strength and flexibility. They are commonly used for items such as plastic bags and even mechanical parts. Know the advantages and disadvantages of thermosets. Thermosets are often used to coat appliances because of the heat they can withstand. Advantages: beautiful aesthetic look; cheap; added strength and stability; resistant to extreme temperatures. Disadvantages: irreversible process means thermoset can't be recycled; more difficult to finish; can't be reshaped. Know the advantages and disadvantages of thermoplastics. Thermoplastics are used for many items, such as park benches, that require both plasticity and durability. Advantages: high lubricity or tack; recyclable; able to remolded and/or reshaped; increased impact resistance. Disadvantages: more expensive (usually); can melt off if overheated. | Determine the type of material you are going to powdercoat and then select a suitable powder for the finish. Disassemble all threaded or lubricated interfaces before you begin, including anything you don't want coated. Clean the base metal thoroughly. Apply the powder to the object to be powder coated. Cure the metal at a temperature appropriate for the powder material you use. Use thermoplastic coatings for items you might eventually remold, and thermoset coatings for items that will remain essentially permanent. Choose thermotype based on some of the features of the coat. Know the advantages and disadvantages of thermosets. Know the advantages and disadvantages of thermoplastics. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Make-a-Pasta-Bake | How to Make a Pasta Bake | To make a vegetarian pasta bake, start by boiling and draining the pasta. Next, pour half of the marinara sauce and half of the pasta into a casserole dish, toss them together until the pasta is evenly coated, and top it with a layer of cheese. Then, add another layer of pasta and sauce and finish with a final layer of cheese. Cover the dish with foil and bake the casserole for 35 minutes at 350°F. Lastly, remove the foil and bake the casserole for 10-15 more minutes until the cheese is bubbly! | Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C). Cook the pasta in salted water for 3 minutes less than the recommended time, then drain it and set it aside. You are under-cooking the pasta because it will finish cooking in the oven. Pour half of the marinara sauce and half of the pasta into a lightly-greased casserole dish. Gently toss the two together until the pasta is evenly coated. Set the rest of the pasta and sauce aside; you will be using them in another layer. Use a 3-quart (2.8 liters) casserole dish. Start layering the cheese on top. Start with ¼ cup (25 grams) of Parmesan cheese, then half of the ricotta cheese. Add 1 cup (100 grams) of the mozzarella cheese. Repeat the pasta, sauce, and cheese layers. Mix the rest of the pasta and marinara sauce, and add it to the casserole dish. Sprinkle rest of the Parmesan cheese, ricotta cheese, and mozzarella cheese on top. Cover the dish lightly with tin foil and bake it for 35 minutes. Make sure that the foil is not touching the cheese. Bake uncovered for another 10 to 15 minutes. The center should be bubbly and heated through. If you want to get a nice, crispy layer on top, place your dish under the broiler (uncovered) until the top turns golden brown, about 4 minutes. Remove the dish from the oven, and let it cool for 10 to 15 minutes before serving. This resting time not only allows the dish to cool enough to eat, but also for the sauce to settle into all of the nooks and crannies. Finished. Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C). Cook the pasta in salted water for 3 minutes less than the recommended time, then drain it and set it aside. You are under-cooking the pasta because it will finish cooking in the oven. Brown the onion and ground beef in a skillet over medium heat. Make sure that the skillet is large enough to hold the spaghetti sauce , which you will be adding later. Stir the onion and ground beef occasionally with a spatula so that they cook evenly. Add the spaghetti sauce and let it simmer for 15 minutes. This will help the flavors mix and blend together. Stir occasionally so that everything cooks evenly. Add half of the pasta, Provolone cheese, and sour cream into a greased baking dish. Use a spatula to spread the pasta across the bottom of the dish in a even layer, then lay all of the Provolone slices on top. Spread the sour cream on top of the Provolone cheese. You will add the rest of the pasta in another layer. Use a 9 by 13 inch (22.86 by 33.02 centimeters) baking dish. Spread half of the sauce mixture on top of the sour cream. Try to spread it as evenly as possible. You are only using half now, because you will be adding the rest of it in another layer. Add the rest of the pasta, mozzarella cheese, and sauce mixture. Spread the pasta across the sauce mixture first, then add the mozzarella cheese. Try to spread everything as evenly as possible. Finish off with the rest of the sauce mixture. Top the dish with grated Parmesan cheese. This will be your finishing touch, and help create that final, crispy layer. Bake for 30, or until cheeses are melted. If you want to get that nice, crispy layer on top, place your dish under the broiler until the cheese turns golden. This will take about 4 minutes. Remove the dish from the oven, and let it cool for 5 to 10 minutes before serving. This also allows the sauce to settle into all of the nooks and crannies of the pasta. Finished. | Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C). Cook the pasta in salted water for 3 minutes less than the recommended time, then drain it and set it aside. Pour half of the marinara sauce and half of the pasta into a lightly-greased casserole dish. Start layering the cheese on top. Repeat the pasta, sauce, and cheese layers. Cover the dish lightly with tin foil and bake it for 35 minutes. Bake uncovered for another 10 to 15 minutes. Remove the dish from the oven, and let it cool for 10 to 15 minutes before serving. Finished. Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C). Cook the pasta in salted water for 3 minutes less than the recommended time, then drain it and set it aside. Brown the onion and ground beef in a skillet over medium heat. Add the spaghetti sauce and let it simmer for 15 minutes. Add half of the pasta, Provolone cheese, and sour cream into a greased baking dish. Spread half of the sauce mixture on top of the sour cream. Add the rest of the pasta, mozzarella cheese, and sauce mixture. Top the dish with grated Parmesan cheese. Bake for 30, or until cheeses are melted. Remove the dish from the oven, and let it cool for 5 to 10 minutes before serving. Finished. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Chop-Broccoli | How to Chop Broccoli | To chop broccoli, first lay the broccoli on its side on a cutting board. Then, use a sharp chef's knife to cut the florets away from the stalk. Chop the florets into smaller pieces by cutting them in half lengthwise. Don't throw away the stalk from the broccoli. The stalk is sweet and crunchy, and you can cut it up and add it to your recipe along with the florets. To cut the stalk, first remove the tough outer layer using a vegetable peeler or paring knife. Then, cut the stalk lengthwise into thin slices. Finally, make evenly spaced cuts across the slices to chop the stalk into smaller pieces. | Wash the broccoli thoroughly. Take your head of broccoli and douse it completely under a cool stream of running water from your sink. You may want to run your fingers through the flowery head to knock loose any dirt or insects that are stuck there. Then you can pat it dry with a towel. Broccoli should not be soaked in water to be cleaned. Pick free leaves from the broccoli. Broccoli leaves, while high in nutritional content, are rarely used in traditional recipes. Picking off the leaves also makes the broccoli more uniform in appearance, creating a more aesthetically pleasing finished product once you are done chopping your broccoli. Leaves can be thrown away or you might use these as part of a salad, which you could serve as a side dish along with your broccoli. Cut the florets free beneath the flower canopy. Use your knife or pair of kitchen scissors to cut the florets free of the stalk as close to beneath the florets as you can. The ideal place for this is where the stalk begins to branch into separate florets. The florets are the part of the broccoli that appear like tiny trees branching off from the thick, green stem. Due to the thickness or position of the florets, you may not be able to get an ideal cut on your first try. Don't worry, you will tidy up your cut broccoli once the florets are completely free of the stalk. Cut the florets free. Start from the outside and work your way in to the center of the floret cluster. You might also peel the florets apart, though doing so will usually require you to make an addition cut or snip to even up the ends of the peeled free broccoli. Ideally, you should cut the florets about an inch down from where their flowering part begins. If you are going to cook the florets, try to make them all roughly the same size so that they cook at the same speed. If you intend to eat the florets raw, the size will not matter and you won't have to trim them down to an even size. Continue to cut the florets moving inward. As you cut the outer florets free, you'll be able to move up the stalk, which will result in less trimming later. Cut the florets free until you have removed them all from the stalk. Trim the stems of your florets to an even length. Regular sized broccoli doesn't just look more pleasing to the eye, it also helps ensure that your broccoli cooks evenly when being prepared for whatever dish you are making. You should leave about ½ inch (1.27 cm) of the stems attached to your florets. Cutting off too much stalk from the floret can result in your broccoli crumbling apart while cooking or handling. Cut your florets into smaller pieces, if desired. Large, fluffy pieces of broccoli can be a delicious side dish to a meal, but when served in a mixed dish, like stir fry, pieces that are too large can throw off the balance of the mix. Take larger florets of your broccoli and: Cut the floret in half with your knife or scissors. For smaller pieces of broccoli, halving once may be sufficient for balancing the size of the broccoli. Or... Halve the two resulting pieces again for larger florets of broccoli. Especially large pieces may need to be quartered for the best size ratio. Keeping your quartered florets a consistent size will also help them cook at an equal rate. Remove the inedible, bottom part of the stalk. The very bottom of the stalk will be too woody and tough for you to eat. Use your knife or scissors to cut the bottom inch to 2 inches (2.54 to 5 cm) off of the stalk. This part can be either thrown away or composted. Use a vegetable peeler to remove tough skin. The stalk of your broccoli is very similar in nutritional content to the florets, and is sometimes even served in restaurants. However, you'll first have to run a vegetable peeler over it to take off the tough outer layer of skin. In restaurants, cut broccoli sticks, when cooked, are often served under the name "coins." Cut your stalks into thin sticks. Since the stalk of your broccoli is heartier and denser than your florets, it will take longer to cook. This is why you should cut your stalks into thin sticks, about the size of a normal carrot stick. Use your knife to halve the stalk vertically. Hold these halves together and cut once again crosswise vertically to quarter your stalk. For especially thick stalks, you can continue halving in this fashion until each piece is as thin as you desire. The process of cutting vegetables into thin sticks of often called “Julienne style.” This is a common method of preparation, so you might want to learn more about how to julienne vegetables. You can also line up and cut the stalks with your knife or scissors to cube the sticks. | Wash the broccoli thoroughly. Pick free leaves from the broccoli. Cut the florets free beneath the flower canopy. Cut the florets free. Continue to cut the florets moving inward. Trim the stems of your florets to an even length. Cut your florets into smaller pieces, if desired. Remove the inedible, bottom part of the stalk. Use a vegetable peeler to remove tough skin. Cut your stalks into thin sticks. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Make-Jalebi | How to Make Jalebi | To make jalebi batter, you'll need 1 cup of all-purpose flour, 2 tablespoons of Bengali gram flour, 3/4 cups of plan yogurt, ½ teaspoon of baking soda, 2 tablespoons of melted ghee, 3-4 saffron threads, and water. Whisk the dry ingredients, then add the yogurt and ghee, and stir into a thick batter. Add the saffron last, then cover the bowl and leave the mixture to ferment in a warm place for 12 hours. The batter is now ready to be fried and soaked in sugar syrup. | Gather your ingredients. This batter is gets its airiness primarily from natural fermentation. The traditional leavening agent is plain yogurt, called "dahi" or "curd" in Indian recipes. You may substitute plain Greek yogurt or buttermilk for this ingredient, as long as it has live active cultures. 1 cup all-purpose flour 2 tablespoons gram, corn, or rice flour (This adds a bit of flavor and texture; you can just use more all-purpose flour if that's all you have on hand.) 3/4 cup plain yogurt, or 1/2 cup buttermilk 1/2 teaspoon baking soda 2 tablespoons melted ghee, or clarified butter (you may substitute vegetable or olive oil) 1/4 tsp saffron for color (you may substitute a pinch of turmeric or a few drops of yellow food coloring) Water, as needed Mix up the batter. Whisk together the dry ingredients in a medium, non-reactive (preferably glass or ceramic) bowl. Then add the yogurt or buttermilk and melted ghee, and stir well to form a thick batter. Finally, add the saffron or food coloring to achieve a golden yellow color. Adjust the thickness of the batter. Your batter should resemble a thick pancake batter. Depending on the humidity and the moisture content of the yogurt or buttermilk you are using, you may need to add water to obtain this consistency. If the batter is too thick, add water a bit at a time and stir well between additions. If the batter is too thin, stir in additional flour one tablespoon at a time. Leave the batter to ferment. Cover the bowl and leave the batter to ferment in a warm place for 12 hours or overnight. (In warm climates, just a few hours will suffice). The batter will rise and become noticeably fluffier than it was the night before. It is now ready to use. Gather your ingredients. This method uses active dry yeast, available in the baking section of most grocery, and comes together in a matter of minutes. 1 1/2 teaspoons active dry yeast 1 tablespoon plus 2/3 cup water 1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour 2 tablespoons gram, corn, or rice flour (This adds a bit of flavor and texture; you can just use more all-purpose flour if that's all you have on hand.) 2 tablespoons ghee, or clarified butter (you may substitute vegetable or olive oil) 1/4 tsp saffron threads for color (You may substitute a pinch of turmeric or a few drops of yellow food coloring.) Make the batter. First, dissolve the yeast in 1 tablespoon (14.8 ml) of lukewarm water, and let it sit for 10 minutes. In a medium bowl, whisk together the flours to combine. Then add the yeast, melted ghee (or butter or oil), saffron or food coloring, and 2/3 cup water. Stir until there are no more lumps and a thick batter is formed. Adjust the batter, if needed. It should resemble a thick, yellow pancake batter. If it is too thick, it will not come out of the dispenser correctly, and if it is too thin, it will be difficult to shape. If the batter is too thin, stir in additional flour one tablespoon at a time to achieve the desired consistency. If the batter is too thick, add a small amount of additional water, and stir well, adding more if necessary. Set the batter aside for 15 minutes. The yeast will work much more quickly to lighten the batter, and the batter can be used right away. However, your jalebi will be lighter if you let the yeast work for a while. Cover the batter and set it aside while you prepare the syrup for the jalebi, and heat the oil for frying. Assemble your ingredients. This recipe is for a saffron simple syrup. If you do not have saffron available, use a few drops of yellow food coloring to achieve the proper color. It is also common to add other flavorings to this syrup, including lemon, lime, cardamom, and rose water. Try the basic version first, and then experiment with your own additions. 1 cup water 1 cup granulated sugar 1/4 teaspoon saffron threads, or a few drops of yellow food coloring Boil the syrup. Add sugar and water to a pan and bring to a boil. Turn the heat down until it is just barely bubbling. Cook the syrup until it reaches the single thread stage, or approximately 220°-222°F (104°-105°C). Watch the syrup carefully to make sure it doesn't burn. This should take around 10-15 minutes on medium-low heat. Test the consistency of the syrup. Sugar syrups used in Indian cooking are defined by their thread consistency. To test the syrup without a thermometer, dip a spoon or spatula into the syrup and lift it out. Wait a moment and carefully pick up a drop of syrup on your finger. Then touch your finger to your thumb and pull them apart slowly to see how many threads of syrup form. For this recipe, you want a single thread syrup. If no thread forms, or it breaks quickly, your syrup is not yet cooked enough. If multiple threads or a sheet forms, you have reduced the syrup too much, and need to add some additional water or begin again. Remove the syrup from the heat. Do this as soon as it reaches the desired consistency. Then quickly stir in your saffron or food coloring. Keep the syrup near at hand, as you will soon be soaking your hot jalebi in it. Heat the oil. Fill a heavy-bottomed pot, such as a dutch oven, kadhai, or wok, with enough ghee or oil for deep-frying, between one and two inches. Heat the oil to between 360°-375° F (182°-190°C). To test the oil temperature without a thermometer, place the end of a wooden spoon into the oil. If bubbles start to form around the spoon and float to the top, your oil is ready to go. Load the batter into a dispenser while the oil is heating. Give the batter a quick stir with a spatula, but do not over-mix. Then pour the batter into a clean squeeze bottle or condiment dispenser. Plastic squeeze bottles can be purchased at many grocery stores, as can specialized batter dispensers. You can also recycle an empty ketchup bottle, just be sure to wash it thoroughly before use. If you do not have a squeeze bottle available, you can pour the batter into a food-grade plastic bag, and cut a small hole in one corner of it when you are ready to dispense the batter. Pour some of the batter into the oil. Using your dispenser, squeeze or pour the batter into the hot oil in coils or spirals that are about 2" wide. Only make 3-4 jalebi at a time to avoid crowding the pan. Forming the jalebi is the tricky part, and does take a bit of practice, but once you get the motion down it will be as easy as, well, jalebi! Fry the jalebi until they are crisp and golden brown. The batter will first sink to the bottom, but will quickly pop back up and float to the top. After a minute or two, flip the jalebi over so they cook on both sides. Then remove them from the oil and drain for a moment on paper towels. Soak the jalebi in the syrup. Place the jalebi into the syrup while they are still hot, and let them soak for at least a minute, some people prefer up to 4-5 minutes. Turn the jalebi over once so both sides have a chance to soak. The jalebi should become thoroughly saturated with sugar syrup. Start your next batch of jalebi cooking while the first is soaking the syrup. Remove the jalebi from the syrup and serve. If you wish to serve the jalebi warm, place the jalebi on a platter, or in bowls with a bit of syrup. Otherwise, remove them from the syrup and let then dry on a rack for several hours until the syrup forms a crust. | Gather your ingredients. Mix up the batter. Adjust the thickness of the batter. Leave the batter to ferment. Gather your ingredients. Make the batter. Adjust the batter, if needed. Set the batter aside for 15 minutes. Assemble your ingredients. Boil the syrup. Test the consistency of the syrup. Remove the syrup from the heat. Heat the oil. Load the batter into a dispenser while the oil is heating. Pour some of the batter into the oil. Fry the jalebi until they are crisp and golden brown. Soak the jalebi in the syrup. Remove the jalebi from the syrup and serve. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Feed-a-Sugar-Glider | How to Feed a Sugar Glider | Sugar gliders eat a mixture of insects and fruits and vegetables. Feed your glider once in the morning and once at dusk to keep it from getting too hungry. Give it a balance of 1 part protein, 1 part fruits or vegetables, and 1 part calcium. Healthy proteins include bugs, hard-boiled eggs, and boiled chicken or turkey. For produce, give it avocado, apples, carrots, melons, and sweet potatoes. To add calcium to its food, give it papaya, plain yogurt, or berries. You should give your glider something different each day to make sure it gets all the nutrients it needs. Cut up its food into small pieces, then place it in its food bowl at each meal. In addition to its regular food, you can feed your sugar glider an occasional treat, like figs, mealworms, crickets, pears, or beets. Just don't give it treats too often since they can be unhealthy in excess. | Fill your glider's water bottle with fresh water. Sugar gliders may not drink very much, since they tend to get most of their water from the food they eat. However, you should always have a source of water in your glider's cage, should they get thirsty. Keep a water bottle or water dish in their cage to make sure they have access to water at all times. Change the water daily so that your glider always has fresh water. Using filtered water is recommended, but not a necessity. Balance out your glider's diet. Sugar gliders are omnivores, and in the wild, they feed on a mixture of insects and vegetation such as eucalyptus leaves, honeydew, sap, and flower nectar. While it can be difficult to emulate the diet exactly, it's frequently possible to give your glider the necessary nutrients with other foods. You'll want to make sure your glider is getting protein, calcium, fruits and vegetables, and enough vitamins in their meals. Many owners of sugar gliders recommend that the glider's meal should consist of a ratio of half protein, a quarter of fruits, and a quarter of vegetables. Usually, though, gliders require less protein in the winter, since it isn't their breeding season. Find sources of protein for your glider. Feeding your glider too much protein should be avoided, and generally, non-breeding gliders require less protein than breeding gliders. However, all gliders need some protein in their meals. Some sources of protein that you could give your glider are: Bugs (unaffected by pesticides) Hard-boiled eggs Plain nonfat yogurt Boiled chicken or turkey Give your glider fresh fruits and vegetables. The best way to ensure your glider gets a variety of nutrients is to give them an assortment of fruits and vegetables. Things like apples, carrots, spinach (in moderation), melons, occasional berries, sweet potatoes, and kiwis can be great for your sugar glider - just make sure to thoroughly wash them beforehand, and to remove the peel if the food has one. Gliders prefer sweet fruits and vegetables, but these should not be the core of their diet to ensure they get enough nutrients. Avocado, lettuce, chives, and onions should not be fed to your glider. The same applies to grapes, which have not been studied enough to know if they're safe to feed to gliders. If you're in a pinch, dried or thawed-out frozen fruits and vegetables are acceptable, but avoid giving your glider canned fruits and vegetables. Make sure your glider has a good source of calcium. One of the most common health problems in pet sugar gliders is calcium deficiency, which can lead to weakened bones and teeth, and even paralysis. To avoid this, you'll want to make sure your glider gets plenty of calcium. Choose foods that are high in calcium, such as papaya, plain yogurt, and the occasional berry. If you're feeding your glider foods especially high in phosphorus - such as eggs or meats - you'll want to make sure your glider gets extra calcium that feeding, since phosphorus can make it hard for your glider to absorb calcium. Many owners of sugar gliders recommend using a calcium supplement that doesn't have phosphorous in it. Recognize what foods should only be used as treats. Sugar gliders enjoy treats just as much as humans do, but it's important not to overfeed treats, as doing so can hurt your glider's health. In particular, fatty foods and extremely naturally sweet foods should be given sparingly. Generally, it's best to avoid excessive feeding of: Mealworms or gut-loaded crickets, due to their high fat content Foods of a moderate to high oxalate level (such as, but not limited to, pears, beets, and figs) due to the potential for loss of calcium absorption Raw corn, due to its high sugar content Unsalted raw nuts and seeds, due to their high fat content Know what not to feed your glider. Some foods aren't safe to give gliders under any circumstances, and can result in severe illness or death. Avoid feeding your glider foods such as: Foods that are considered toxic (e.g. apple seeds, tomato stems and leaves, and eggplant stems and leaves) Sugary foods, such as chocolate or candy, or foods with artificial sweeteners Foods treated with pesticides or preservatives Bugs and insects from outside (they may have been affected by pesticides) If you don't know whether or not the food is safe, err on the side of caution and don't give it to them until you've gotten a chance to look it up or ask the vet. Talk to your glider's veterinarian. If you're unsure of how to feed your sugar glider, or you notice problems with their weight or eating habits, the best choice is to take your glider to the vet. The vet can help you balance out your sugar glider's diet and make recommendations for what you should and shouldn't feed them. Ensure your glider gets a variety of foods. In order to make sure that your glider is getting a variety of nutrients, and to keep them from getting bored with their meals, it's a good idea to change up the foods they get in their feedings. For example, if you give your glider eggs as protein one day, give them another form of protein the next day, like bugs or yogurt. Establishing a meal routine may make this easier. Gliders are sometimes finicky about their meals and may pick out their favorite parts of the meal, leaving the rest of it alone. To reduce the risk of them doing this, it's important to chop the food and mix it thoroughly. Feed your glider in the morning and at dusk. It's important to feed your glider a small meal at the start of the day, to avoid them being too hungry during the day. Since sugar gliders are nocturnal creatures, though, it's a good idea to feed them the majority of their meal just before the sun fully goes down, to ensure that they eat enough. You can leave a bowl of dry glider food in the cage in case your glider is hungry outside of their normal feeding times. Cut up the food before feeding. Your sugar glider can't eat giant chunks of food, so before you give it to them, chop the food into small pieces. This will make it easier for them to eat their meals, and will encourage them to eat a wider variety as well. Don't overfeed your sugar glider. Wild gliders tend to eat about 15 to 20 percent of their body weight in food, and pet gliders should eat less than that since they aren't as active as their wild counterparts. Feeding your glider too much can result in weight gain, which can lead to health problems down the road and even premature death. Overfeeding too much of certain foods (e.g. too much protein or too much of foods high in phosphorus) can result in health problems, such as bone weakening. Remove perishable foods from the cage after feeding. After your sugar glider eats, you should remove foods that can rot from their food dish. Gliders can be picky eaters, so they may not want to eat their food if it isn't fresh anymore. Try mounting the food bowls higher up in the cage. Sugar gliders are natural tree-dwellers and eat many types of vegetation, so if the food is up higher in their cage, they may be more inclined to eat (and it will also help keep the bowls cleaner). Give treats sparingly. You don't want to spoil your sugar glider or encourage picky eating, and many of the treats that are recommended for gliders are not good for them when eaten all the time. Only about 5% of a sugar glider's daily meals should consist of treats, and that doesn't mean you should give your glider treats every day! | Fill your glider's water bottle with fresh water. Balance out your glider's diet. Find sources of protein for your glider. Give your glider fresh fruits and vegetables. Make sure your glider has a good source of calcium. Recognize what foods should only be used as treats. Know what not to feed your glider. Talk to your glider's veterinarian. Ensure your glider gets a variety of foods. Feed your glider in the morning and at dusk. Cut up the food before feeding. Don't overfeed your sugar glider. Remove perishable foods from the cage after feeding. Try mounting the food bowls higher up in the cage. Give treats sparingly. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Hatch-Chicken-Eggs | How to Hatch Chicken Eggs | To hatch chicken eggs using an incubator, first set the incubator's temperature to 99.5°F and check that its humidity is 60%. Then, set your eggs in the incubator on their sides with the larger ends of the eggs slightly higher than the pointy ends. Turn your eggs 3-5 times every day for the first 17 days they're incubating. Additionally, candle your eggs between the 7th and 10th days to see which ones are viable. Finally, stop turning your eggs on the 18th day, and let them sit for the last 3 days of their incubation so the chicks can position themselves to hatch. | Find out where to source fertile eggs. Fertile eggs must be obtained from hatcheries or poultry farms which have roosters in their flock, if you do not breed your own chickens. You may be able to buy fresh farm eggs from someone who sells their extras. Be sure to check with potential suppliers well in advance, to ensure they have the correct breed and number of eggs in stock. Your county extension agent or extension poultry specialist may be able to suggest a source. The eggs you find in grocery stores are not fertile and cannot be hatched. For disease prevention and health reasons, it's best to get all your eggs from one source. If you are looking for a particular or rare breed of chicken, you may need to contact a specialized hatchery. Beware of getting your eggs shipped. You should be wary of buying your eggs online and having them shipped to you, especially if you are a first time hatcher. Shipped eggs are more difficult to hatch than eggs from your own flock or eggs acquired locally. On average, eggs that have never shipped have an 80% chance of hatching, whereas shipped eggs have only a 50% chance. However, if the eggs are treated very roughly during shipping, it is possible none will hatch, even when you are doing everything right. Select your eggs wisely. If you are able to select your own hatching eggs, there are several things you should look out for. You should select eggs from breeding hens that are well developed, mature and healthy; they should be compatible with their mates and produce a high percentage of fertile eggs (around three). The breeding hens should also be fed a complete breeder's diet. Avoid excessively large or small eggs, or misshapen eggs. Large eggs hatch poorly and small eggs produce small chicks. Avoid eggs with cracked or thin shells. These eggs have difficulty retaining moisture needed for proper chick development. Cracked or thin shells also make it easier for disease to penetrate. Understand that you will have roosters. An important point to keep in mind is that your eggs will generally hatch out in a 50:50 mix of males and females. If you live in town, roosters can be a problem and keeping them is often against municipal regulations! If you can't keep roosters, you will need to be prepared to find them a home. Even if you can keep them, you will have to consider what living arrangements you will need so that the roosters won't overbreed and or even injure your hens. Understand that there is no way to know whether an egg contains a male or female chick before the egg has hatched. Even though the general ratio of males to females is 50:50, you may be unlucky and hatch 7 males out of 8 eggs, which does not make for much of a laying flock. If you do intend to keep some or all of the male chicks, there are several things you will need to consider, such as whether you will have enough space to ensure that the hens are not overbred. Overbred hens can have feathers pulled out from their heads and backs, their combs injured and, even worse, can get accidental puncture wounds from rooster spurs. Too many roosters can fight amongst themselves, as well. The usual recommendation is to keep about one rooster for every ten hens or so. This is also a good ratio to keep if you want decent fertility in your home flock. Decide whether to use an incubator or a broody hen. You have two options once you've decided to hatch chicken eggs; you can hatch them in an incubator or hatch them under a broody hen. Both options have pros and cons that you will need to consider before proceeding. An incubator is an enclosure which has controlled temperature, humidity, and ventilation. With an incubator, you are the only one responsible for the eggs. You will be in charge of preparing the incubator, monitoring the temperature, humidity and ventilation inside the incubator, as well as turning the eggs. Small incubators can be purchased , though it is also possible to make your own. If you have a commercial model, follow the instructions supplied with the unit. A broody hen can be used to incubate and hatch chicken eggs, even if she didn't lay the eggs herself. This is a great, natural option for hatching eggs. Just make sure you choose a broody breed to hatch your eggs, popular broody breeds include Silkies, Cochins, Orpingtons and Old English Games. Know the pros and cons of each method. Of course, both incubators and broody hens offer advantages and disadvantages to cultivators trying to hatch chicken eggs. Knowing what these are will ultimately help you make the best decision given your circumstances. Incubator pros: Using an incubator is a good option if you do not have access to a broody hen or you are hatching chickens for the first time. An incubator allows you to be in control of the hatching process. Incubators are also the best option for hatching large quantities of eggs. Incubator cons: The main drawback of using an incubator is that its operation is wholly dependent on a reliable power source. If you are hit with an unexpected power outage or someone accidentally unplugs the incubator, it can adversely affect the eggs, even killing the babies in the shell. If you don't already own an incubator, you may need to buy one which, depending on size and quality, may be costly. Broody hen pros: Using a broody hen to hatch your eggs is a practical and natural option. With a hen, you don't need to worry about the power going out and ruining your eggs. There are no concerns about the temperature or humidity being right. Once the eggs have hatched, the hen will be a mother to the chicks, which is a beautiful thing to see. Broody hen cons: Your hen may not be broody when you need her to be and there is no way to make a hen go broody, so you will need to get your timing just right. You may need to invest in a "broody coop" to protect your hen and the eggs from overcrowding and possible damage to the eggs. This can add to the expense of hatching eggs. In addition, a hen can only reliably hatch a few eggs at a time. Large hens may be able to hatch 10-12 eggs at the very most, depending on the size of the eggs, while small hens may only hatch 6-7. Choose a location for the incubator. To help your incubator maintain a constant temperature, place it where it will receive as little temperature fluctuation as possible. Do not place it near a window where it will be exposed to direct sunlight. The sun's heat can raise the temperature high enough to kill the developing embryos. Connect the unit to a dependable electrical source, and make sure the plug cannot be accidentally detached from the outlet. Keep the incubator out of the reach of small children, cats and dogs. In general, it's best to keep your incubator on a sturdy surface that won't be knocked or stepped on, and in a place that has relatively stable temperatures, out of the way of drafts and direct sunlight. Familiarize yourself with the operation of the incubator. Before you begin to hatch your chicken eggs, make sure to read all of the instructions in the incubator's instruction manual. Make sure you know how to operate the fan, the light and any other functions. Use the thermometer provided to check the temperature of the incubator. You should do this frequently during the 24 hours before you incubate, to be sure it will stay at the correct temperature. Adjust the conditions. In order to successfully hatch chicken eggs, the conditions inside the incubator must be spot on. To prepare the incubator to receive the chicken eggs, you should adjust the conditions inside the incubator to the optimum level. Temperature: Chicken eggs should be incubated at a temperature between 99 and 102 degrees Fahrenheit (99.5 is often considered to be ideal). Avoid temperatures outside the 97–103 °F (36–39 °C). range. If the temperature remains beyond either extreme for several days, hatchability may be severely reduced. Humidity: The moisture level in the incubator should be about 50 to 65 percent relative humidity (60 percent is often considered the ideal). Moisture is provided by a pan of water under the egg tray. You can use a wet bulb thermometer or a hygrometer to measure humidity. Set the eggs. Once the conditions inside the incubator have been properly set and monitored for at least 24 hours to confirm stability, it is time to set your eggs. Never set fewer than six eggs. If you try hatching only two or three eggs, and especially if they are shipped eggs, a bad hatch is likely. You may get one chick, or none. Warm the fertile eggs to room temperature. Allowing the eggs to warm up will decrease the amount and duration of temperature fluctuation in the incubator after you've added the eggs. Place the eggs carefully into the incubator. Make sure the eggs are lying on their sides. The larger end of each egg should be slightly higher than the pointy end. This is important as the embryos can become misaligned if the pointy end is higher and may have difficult pipping, or breaking through the shell, when it comes time to hatch. Allow the temperature to drop after adding the eggs. The temperature will temporarily lower after you've introduced the eggs into the incubator, but it should readjust if you've calibrated the incubator correctly. Don't increase the temperature to compensate for this fluctuation or you may damage or kill your embryos. Record the date. From this you will be able to estimate the hatching date of your eggs. Chicken eggs take twenty-one days to hatch when incubated at optimal temperature. Older eggs, eggs that were allowed to cool down and eggs that were incubated at too low a temperature, may still hatch--but they will hatch late! If it is Day 21 and your eggs haven't hatched yet, give them a couple of extra days, just in case! Turn the eggs daily. Eggs should be turned a minimum of three times per day at regular intervals--though five is even better! Some people like to lightly draw an X on one side of the egg so they can more easily keep track of which eggs have been turned. Otherwise it is easy to lose track of which have been turned, and whether they have been turned all the way over or not. When turning eggs manually, your hands must be washed and clean before each session to avoid transferring bacteria and oils onto the surface of the egg. Keep turning the eggs until day 18, and then stop to allow the chicks to position themselves properly for hatching. Adjust the humidity levels in the incubator. Humidity should be around 50 to 60 percent throughout incubation, except during the last 3 days when you will want to raise it to 65 percent. You may need higher or lower humidity levels depending on the type of eggs you wish to hatch. Consult your hatchery or the available literature on hatching your species of bird. Replenish the water in the water pan on a regular basis or the humidity levels will drop too low. Always add warm water. Add a sponge to the water pan if you need to increase the humidity. Measure the humidity level in the incubator using a wet bulb thermometer. Take a reading with the wet bulb thermometer and also record the temperature in the incubator at the time. Consult a chart or psychrometric chart online or in a book to find the relative humidity from the relationship between the wet bulb and dry bulb temperature readings. Ensure the incubator has adequate ventilation. There should be openings on the sides and top of the incubator to allow air flow-check to make sure these are at least partially opened. You will need to increase the amount of ventilation once the chicks begin to hatch. Candle the eggs after 7 to 10 days. Candling the eggs is when you use a light source to view how much space the embryo occupies within an egg. After 7 to 10 days, you should see development of the embryo. Candling allows you to remove eggs with embryos that are not viable. Find a tin can or a box that can fit over a light bulb. Cut a hole in the can or box that is smaller in diameter than an egg. Turn on the light bulb. Take 1 of the incubated eggs and hold it over the hole. If the egg appears clear, the embryo has not developed or the egg may never have been fertile. You should see a cloudy mass if the embryo is developing. The embryo will increase in size as you near the hatch date. Remove any eggs that do not show a developing embryo from the incubator. Prepare for the hatch. Discontinue turning and rotating eggs 3 days prior to the estimated hatch date. Most viable eggs will hatch within a 24 hour period. Place cheesecloth under the egg tray prior to hatching. The cheesecloth will help catch bits of eggshell and other matter during and after the hatch. Increase the humidity level in the incubator by adding more water or a sponge. Leave the incubator closed until after the chicks hatch. Choose the right breed. If you are decided on using a hen to hatch your eggs, you will want to know how to choose the best for your hatching needs. Some breeds will never go broody, so if you are waiting for your favorite to get in the mood for hatching, it may be a very long wait! The best broody breeds are Silkies, Cochins, Orpingtons and Old English Games. There are plenty of other breeds that will go broody, but keep in mind that just because a hen goes broody, it is no guarantee she will be a good mother. For instance, some hens will go broody, but will not stay on the nest consistently, so few if any eggs will hatch. Some hens are so startled when the eggs finally hatch, that the mother hen may attack the new chicks or abandon them. If you can find a hen that's a good breeder and mother, then you're on to a winner! Know when a hen is broody. To tell whether a hen has gone broody, look for a hen that stays flattened out in the nest box in a trance-like state and stays there at night. You can also look for a patch of naked skin on her underside. And if she warns you away with a loud squawk or gives you a sharp peck, this is a good indication that she's broody. If you don't trust your hen, before placing fertile eggs under her, test her for a couple of days to see if she sticks tight to the nest. You can place her on golf balls, artificial eggs, or regular eggs that you are willing to sacrifice. You don't want a hen that will abandon the nest partway through the incubation cycle. Prepare a brooding area. Put the broody hen in a separate house or room that can be used for both the incubation and hatching period and the time when the chicks are growing. Place a comfortable, ground-level nest within the brooding area, filled with soft cushioning such as wood shavings or straw. Minimally the brooding area should be somewhere quiet, dark, clean, draft-free, isolated from the rest of the flock, free of lice and ticks, and safe from potential predators. Allow ample room for the hen to leave the nest to eat, drink, and move around. Place the fertile eggs under the hen. Once you are sure the broody hen will be a good setter and you have prepared the brooding area, place the fertile eggs under then hen. Place the eggs under her all at once, so they will hatch within 24 hours of each other. Place the eggs under the hen at night, since you are less likely to disturb her and cause her to reject and abandon the nest and eggs. Don't worry how you place the eggs. The hen will shift them numerous times over the course of the incubation. Have feed and water available at all times. Make sure the hen has access to food and water at all times, even if she only gets up to eat and drink once a day. Place the water far enough away from the hen that she won't knock it over or spill it over her nest and eggs. Refrain from disturbing the hen or the eggs as much as possible. The hen will do all the necessary work of turning and adjusting the eggs and the eggs should stay moist and warm from the hen's body. If you want to inspect and candle the eggs to check on their progress, resist the temptation of doing it too often. However, you don't want to have rotten eggs that could create health and safety problems if they crack open. A good compromise is to candle all the eggs at the same time between seventh and tenth day of the incubation process. If you discover a rotten egg or are absolutely sure the egg has no chick developing inside, remove it. During the last week of incubation, expect the hen to stay on the nest full time without turning or fussing with the eggs. That's all natural, so leave her alone. Have a back up. It can be very frustrating when a hen has been faithfully broody for two weeks and then gives up on the eggs, but don't despair. If you have another broody hen or an artificial incubator at hand, you can still save the clutch. Let nature take its course. Once the chicks begin to hatch, try not to peek or remove the eggs from under the hen just to get a better look. They are exactly where they need to be. Don't worry if not all of the eggs have hatched, hens are surprisingly good at multi-tasking between incubating eggs and caring for baby chicks. The hen will usually stay on the nest for 36 hours or longer to provide time for all of the chicks to hatch while keeping the hatched chicks very close under her wing. | Find out where to source fertile eggs. Beware of getting your eggs shipped. Select your eggs wisely. Understand that you will have roosters. Decide whether to use an incubator or a broody hen. Know the pros and cons of each method. Choose a location for the incubator. Familiarize yourself with the operation of the incubator. Adjust the conditions. Set the eggs. Allow the temperature to drop after adding the eggs. Record the date. Turn the eggs daily. Adjust the humidity levels in the incubator. Ensure the incubator has adequate ventilation. Candle the eggs after 7 to 10 days. Prepare for the hatch. Choose the right breed. Know when a hen is broody. Prepare a brooding area. Place the fertile eggs under the hen. Have feed and water available at all times. Refrain from disturbing the hen or the eggs as much as possible. Have a back up. Let nature take its course. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Find-Good-Friends | How to Find Good Friends | To find good friends, try your best to put yourself out there by joining a few clubs and attending events in your community. By doing things that you enjoy, you're more likely to meet like-minded people and become friends with them! If joining clubs and going to events is out of your comfort zone, try participating in online forums and groups on social media, which is a great way to get to know people before meeting them face-to-face. Or, you can use a friend-finding service, like Meetup or Peoplehunt, to connect with other people who are looking for friends too. | Get out in social places. To meet new people and make good friends, you'll need to be where people are interacting on a social level. The first step is to walk through the door and out into the world. When you get out to places where there's a good likelihood of meeting and interacting with people in a social context, you've already put yourself on the right track. Join some clubs, like mixed netball, chess club, or make your own! Search online for club opportunities in your area. Remember, you aren't the only one in town hoping to find a new friend! If you're a mom, you can join a mothers club. A mothers club is a place for mothers to get together to discuss their kids, problems they've been having or what they've been doing, as well as just spending time with other mothers and getting to know each other and share stories. If you appreciate literature, join a local book club where you can hang out and discuss the month's readings. Go to local events. Concerts, neighborhood meetings, or even store grand openings and events at your local library are places where you can interact on a social level with like-minded individuals. Being more present in your community can make a huge difference in your ability to find good friends. Being a member of the same local community means you will always have something to talk about. Join online forums. Find forums on subjects that interests you. In online forums you can discuss a wide variety of subjects and issues that you relate to with other people, and increase your chance of making a connection with someone who shares common interests. Look into forums that: Relate to your occupation, especially if you are in a specialized field. Focus on a particular sport or hobby that you like. Are populated by people who are in your age group, or share similar backgrounds. Find common ground. To find good friends, you should get involved with things that you like do, so that if you do meet someone, you'll have the same interests. When you connect with someone with similar tastes as you, be ready to use that connection to develop your friendship further. If you're into sports, join an intramural or amateur league for your sport of choice. If you're a veteran, hanging out at the local VFW is a great way to meet fellow service members. If you live in a place with lots of outdoor possibilities, hiking the trails, skiing, swimming or engaging in other outdoor activities regularly can put you in contact with other outdoor enthusiasts (and help you stay in shape, too). Spending active time with a new friend, or even someone you've known for a while, will help take your relationship to a higher level. Use social media to put yourself out there. Join an online social site, like facebook , so that if you meet someone you can add them to your social network. Even if you don't know them very well, you can see what they've been doing and keep in touch. Being aware of what is going on in a friend's life makes it more likely that you will be able to connect on a deeper level, and make a casual friendship into a more intimate and close one. Use an online friend finding service. You might think they're all dating apps, but there are some services that cater specifically to people looking for platonic connections, such as Meetup and Peoplehunt. These apps can help put you in touch with groups or individuals in your area, and tailor your interests to theirs. Apps such as Foursquare and Crowded Room are also good tools for using location to put you in touch with other like minded individuals. Make friends through friends. Often the best way to meet new people is through mutual acquaintances. Meeting and spending time with the friends of people you already know gives you a leg up-and you're more likely to get along with someone that your friends get along with. Break out of your daily routine. If you want to make new friends, especially good, long-lasting ones, you may need to make yourself get out more. It's perfectly understandable to want to just relax at home at the end of a long workday or week, but getting out and about is crucial for making new friends. Instead of ordering your favorite take out, eat in the restaurant. Make a habit of going for a walk around the neighborhood in the evenings. Think of the whole world as your playground, not just your own backyard. Get out and enjoy the sights-you'll end up meeting people in the process. Make a point of accepting invitations. It's very easy, especially if you're a somewhat solitary person, to rationalize why you don't want to go to the party, for instance, why you won't enjoy it, why it's not a good idea because you were sick a week ago-but if you want to make friends, you'll give yourself a major advantage by being willing to accept invitations. Be wary of declining invitations too often; people may eventually stop asking. Accept that you'll need to inconvenience yourself from time to time in order to spend time with potential friends. Usually the inconvenience stops once you're together and having a good time. Let others change you. Sometimes, especially if you have emotional walls up, making a good friend requires letting someone break them down. When someone is trying to connect, they may be trying to bring you out of your shell. Let them in, and share your more intimate thoughts and desires with them. Introduce yourself. If you're in an appropriate situation, and see someone who seems like they might be interesting, go up and say hi. Tell them your name and make small talk-perhaps you've seen them around before and thought you'd introduce yourself. When you introduce yourself, embrace understatement. Usually saying less is best. When you talk too much about yourself right off the bat, it will make you seem overly egotistical. A simple “Hi, I'm Steve,” is way more likely to lead to conversation than, “Hi, I'm Steve. Well, let's get this party started. I just had a long day making some major business deals with some really important clients from overseas and having my new Jaguar tuned up. What do you do?” Which of the two would you feel more comfortable in responding to? Be aware of the situation when you introduce yourself. If you're at a company party, say, “Hi, I'm Steve from accounting.” Likewise, if it's a random situation, don't feel the need to create a context-if you've been introduced at a bar for instance, just stick with “Hi, I'm Steve, nice to meet you”, and focus on the other person rather than declaring your job title or what you did that day. Ask questions and listen. When you meet new people, always try to listen more than you talk. Don't demand information, but use a simple, “What do you like to do?”-and then listen with genuine interest. Being a good listener is a sure way to get someone on your side. Know what situations are acceptable to approach people. If you're in a bar, at a dance, a party, or other social mixing situations, people are more likely to be open to meeting new people. Likewise, avoid walking up and trying to have a conversation when people are busy or going about their daily tasks. Be confident in approaching people, but not overbearing. No one likes to feel like they are being pursued or harassed by someone they don't know. Observe people's body language when you approach them. If a person won't look you in the eye, or seems like they want to disengage from the conversation, let them. When someone speaks to you with an open posture and looks at your face, especially into your eyes, it can be a good indicator that they are willing to engage further. People will often keep their arms crossed when they feel uncomfortable or closed off, or hunch their shoulders and look down. When you see signs of discomfort or avoidance, don't react with your own annoyance, even if your feelings get hurt a little. Don't push it-respect others' body language and nonverbal communication signs; you never know what else is going on with someone to make them unwilling to engage. Judge people on more than appearances. Appearances are important, especially in first impressions, but you should also consider other aspects of people when sizing them up. How do they behave? Do you find the person interesting based on how they act? How do you feel about their demeanor? How do you feel interacting with the other person? Good friends often are made “naturally”. The two of you simply hit it off, and find that you are comfortable and engaged around one another. Explore mutual interests. One of the best ways to create an immediate bond with someone is to find common ground. When they mention something that they like that interests you, too, pick up on it. If a person mentions going to the theatre, and you like acting, it might lead to something like, "Really? I was in a production of that two years ago! I love that play!" It doesn't need to be that specific, simply expressing a mutual interest can go a long way. Be relaxed and non-expectant. When you first meet someone, avoid laying expectations on them from the start. Finish your conversation with a casual “see ya around” rather than asking to get together right off the bat. In the right local situations, or if you've connected through an app or online service, you're likely to run into each other again. Be prepared for intimacy. Usually, a first meeting will be casual and non-committal. But sometimes you connect on a deeper level with someone right off the bat. Be ready! Let your senses guide you. Sometimes someone will just open up to you when they, too sense a connection. Reciprocate intimacy. Sharing intimate or personal stories and experiences creates a bond between people. Everyone experiences pain, fear, loneliness- and sharing that common humanity with someone is what becoming close, good friends is all about. Get together. After you've become somewhat acquainted with the other person is a good time to get together and get to know each other better. If you had a good first meeting or introduction, and the other person seems interesting in getting to know you better, take it to the next level and make plans to hang out. Ask if they’d like to get together sometime. Once you've established some mutual interests, find out if the other person wants to share the experience. Whereas a date usually involves an intimate and romantic situation (i.e. candlelight dinner) just hanging out and doing fun stuff is the way for friends to go. If you both like sports, see if they want your extra ticket, or come with you to a game. Engage in recreational activities together on a weekend. Get out for a hike, go kayaking or canoeing, or catch a movie together. Grab some lunch. Don’t rush it. Good friendships develop over time. Don't expect to be best friends after hanging out once or twice. Be casual, have fun, and let things develop as they will. Just like with dating, becoming good friends can't be forced or manipulated-when it's there, it's there, if not, not. The same goes for the other person-if you feel like you're being pushed into something you're not ready for, back away. Don't feel obligated to always meet the other person's demands because you want a friend. If they're truly your friend, they will want you to do what's best for you. Share yourself on a intimate level. In Method 2 we discussed allowing yourself to open up in first meeting situations. When you are getting to know someone and spending more time with them, it becomes essential to let yourself open up. Make a point of sharing personal and intimate stories. Telling life experiences to each other, especially if they involve less than comfortable subjects, is a useful strategy for connecting on a deep level. Remember, being good friends isn't about showing only the best parts of yourself and your life; it's the struggles that we've all experienced that connect us through our humanity. Become good friends. Simply being connected with someone online isn't the same as having a truly good friend. Even if you have several hundred Facebook friends, having that special person that is there for you in person in times of need and times of joy is important. Be there for them as well. It's important to view friendship as a two way street. Treat your new friend as you want them to treat you. Don't sweat the hassle of making plans. Arranging and deciding on times and places to meet can be logistically tricky, especially if your or the other person has a busy work schedule, or if there are more than two people involve. Keep building on your relationship, and keep budding relationships. Once you've gotten together some, keep hanging out, keep getting in touch, and keep letting your relationship grow. If you have several people that you get together with occasionally, it's likely that that special friendship will grow out of these. It takes some effort, but keep after it, and you'll end up with a good, sturdy, long-lasting friendship. | Get out in social places. Join some clubs, like mixed netball, chess club, or make your own! Go to local events. Join online forums. Find common ground. Use social media to put yourself out there. Use an online friend finding service. Make friends through friends. Break out of your daily routine. Make a point of accepting invitations. Introduce yourself. Know what situations are acceptable to approach people. Judge people on more than appearances. Explore mutual interests. Be relaxed and non-expectant. Be prepared for intimacy. Get together. Ask if they’d like to get together sometime. Don’t rush it. Share yourself on a intimate level. Become good friends. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Keep-Cats-Off-Cars | How to Keep Cats Off Cars | To keep cats off your car, mix peppermint or orange essential oil with 3 parts water in a spray bottle. Then, spray the mixture around your car, or soak cotton balls in the mixture and put them around it. You can also try sprinkling dry rosemary or lavender around, since cats don't like these smells either. Alternatively, buy and use an all-natural cat repellent spray, which won't damage paint, or a cat-repellent powder. Just be aware that dry herbs or powders can blow away, so you may be better off using a homemade or store-bought spray. | Use a cat repellent spray. Look for all-natural sprays that won't damage the paint on your car. Try spraying the ground around your car first. If the cat continues to sit on your car, spray the car directly every night before bed. Sprinkle cat-repelling powder on your car. Look for a powder that's organic and chemical-free, which will be safe to use around children, plants, and household pets. Powders are inexpensive, but can be blown off your car by winds or rain. Powder cat repellents are available at pet stores and online. Use dry herbs to repel the cat. Sprinkle an herb like rue, rosemary, or lavender on the hood of your car or other areas where the cat likes to sit. You can switch off between herbs to see what works best, or try a mix. Start with a small amount of herb, increasing it if the cat continues to sit on your car. Herbs are also inexpensive and easy to use, but can be blown off by winds. Make your own cat repellent. Mix an essential oil, such as lavender, peppermint, or orange, with 3 parts water in a spray bottle and spritz around your car, or soak cotton balls and place them around the car. You can also spray with a mixture of 1 part Citronella oil and 4 parts water. There are many different do-it-yourself cat repellents you can try. All cats are different, so what keeps one cat away may not deter another; just keep trying different methods until you find one that works! Place an ultrasonic animal repellent near your car. When these electronic repellents sense motion, they emit a high-pitched sound that's inaudible to the human ear, but is annoying to cats. The cat will run off with no harm done to it or your car. You can order an ultrasonic device online or find one in your pet store. Install a motion-controlled sprinkler. These sprinklers are built specifically to deter feline pests. Hook one up to your hose and point it at your car. When it detects motion, it will spray a big arc of water to scare off the cat. The downside is that your car will likely get wet in the process. Make sure to roll up your windows beforehand and avoid walking in front of the sprinkler, or you'll might get sprayed instead of the cat! Look for these specialty sprinklers online and in pet stores. Use a car cover to protect your car. If you don't mind the cat itself but are tired of the paw prints on your hood or scratches on your paint, protect your car by zipping on a car cover every night before bed. Though this may feel like an expensive investment, it will protect your car from cats and inclement weather alike. Remove any food sources from around your car. Clean up your driveway and yard to make sure the cat isn't attracted to any food scraps fallen from your trash. Be on the lookout for mice or other natural prey that the cat might be hunting. If the cat is sitting on your car just because it's near food or prey, getting rid of that food will get rid of your cat problem! Ask the cat’s owner to trim its nails. If the cat's claw marks are the primary issue and its owner lives in the neighborhood, ask them if clipping is an option. Say, “I know it's not your fault your cat likes to sit on my car, but the scratches it's leaving are getting pretty annoying. Would you be open to cutting its nails?” Ask the cat’s owner to keep it indoors. If a stubborn neighborhood cat just won't leave your car alone, talk to its owner about keeping it indoors or more securely confined to its yard. Be polite and explain the problem calmly. Let them know you're open to other solutions, but think this might be the only way to keep their cat away from your car. Say, “I've seen your cat sitting on my car a lot recently. I know you can't control exactly where he goes, but I was wondering if you'd be willing to restrict him to your backyard or keep him indoors. He's been damaging the paint and leaving droppings around my car. If you have any other solutions, I'd be willing to discuss them too as well.” | Use a cat repellent spray. Sprinkle cat-repelling powder on your car. Use dry herbs to repel the cat. Make your own cat repellent. Place an ultrasonic animal repellent near your car. Install a motion-controlled sprinkler. Use a car cover to protect your car. Remove any food sources from around your car. Ask the cat’s owner to trim its nails. Ask the cat’s owner to keep it indoors. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Make-Homemade-Hot-Chocolate | How to Make Homemade Hot Chocolate | To make homemade hot chocolate, first add 2 tablespoons (15 grams) of cocoa powder and 2 tablespoons (25 grams) of sugar into a saucepan. Then, pour 1 cup (250 mL) of milk and place the saucepan on the stovetop over medium-low heat. Whisk everything together until the mixture is hot, but not boiling. Finally, stir in 1/4 teaspoon (1 1/4 mL) of vanilla extract. Pour your hot chocolate into a mug and enjoy. Add marshmellows or whipped cream to make your hot chocolate even sweeter. To make spicy hot chocolate, first chop 3 ounces (90 grams) of bittersweet chocolate into small pieces. Then, add the chocolate to a pot with 2 tablespoons (15 grams) of cocoa powder, 2 tablespoons (25 grams) of sugar, and 1/4 teaspoon (1 1/4 grams) of ancho chile powder. Heat everything over low heat until the chocolate begins to melt. Now, add two cups (1/2 liter) of milk to the pot and continue to heat while whisking everything together. Strain your hot chocolate into a mug and add a cinnamon stick for even more spice. | Make the cocoa mixture. Combine 1 tbsp. of cocoa powder and 1 tbsp. of granulated sugar in a bowl. Stir the ingredients a bit to combine them. Pour ¾ cups of water into another bowl or cup. Make sure it's microwave-safe. Microwave the water on high for 1 ½ minutes or until the water boils. Pour the hot water over the cocoa mixture. Stir the mixture until it's smooth. Pour 2/3 cup skim evaporated milk into another cup. Microwave it on high for 1 minute. Then, pour the warm milk into the mug with the water and cocoa mixture. Add ¾ tsp. of vanilla flavoring. Stir well to combine the ingredients. Then, place a few mini marshmallows in the cup. Serve. Enjoy the taste of this cup of delicious hot chocolate with mini marshmallows -- if you'd like to treat a friend, just double the ingredients when you start making your hot chocolate, or repeat the process. Combine the first four ingredients together in a heavy saucepan. Combine 1 cup of unsweetened cocoa powder, 1 cup of sugar, ¼ cup of instant espresso powder, 1 tbsp. vanilla, 1 pinch of salt, and 1 cup of cold water in a heavy saucepan and heat the mixture over low heat. Whisk the ingredients. Continue to whisk them until the cocoa powder is dissolved and the mixture is smooth and creamy. Gradually add the milk and half and half to the mixture. Add 6 cups of scalded milk and 2 cups of scalded half and half to the mixture over low heat, whisking the ingredients together until they're hot but not boiling. Add 1 cup of milk and ¼ cup of half and half at a time and continue to add the rest of the milk and half and half in small portions until all of the ingredients are thoroughly blended. Serve. Enjoy this tasty mocha hot chocolate as a breakfast treat or during any time of day. Heat 2 ½ cups of milk in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Heat it until the milk is hot, but not boiling. Add 4 oz. of chopped unsweetened chocolate and ½ cup of sugar to the milk. Stir the ingredients together until they're blended. Add ¾ tsp. of cinnamon, ¼ tsp. of chili powder, and 1 seeded and sliced red bell pepper to the mixture. Bring the ingredients to a simmer. Remove the red pepper strips. Their flavor will remain in the hot chocolate. Serve. Enjoy this spicy hot chocolate at any time. Whisk together the milk, cinnamon, vanilla extract, and nutmeg in a large pot over medium heat. Whisk together 6 (12 oz.) cans of evaporated milk, 4 tsp. of ground cinnamon, 1 tbsp. of vanilla extract, and 1 tsp. of ground nutmeg together in a large pot over medium heat. Add chocolate chips to the mixture. Add 2 (12 oz.) bags of semisweet chocolate chips to the mixture. Stir the hot chocolate until the chocolate is melted. Cover and cook on low heat for 5 minutes. This will blend the ingredients even more. Then remove the hot cocoa from the stove. Serve. Sprinkle this hot chocolate with a pinch of cocoa powder and a pinch of cayenne pepper and enjoy it any time. Finished. Get a frying pan, milk and chocolate chips. Put the stove on medium low. Pour the milk and chocolate chips in. Mix it for one to two minutes. Pour it in a cup, either by just pouring it in or with a big spoon. Serve. Add anything, from marshmallows to candy. | Make the cocoa mixture. Pour ¾ cups of water into another bowl or cup. Microwave the water on high for 1 ½ minutes or until the water boils. Pour the hot water over the cocoa mixture. Pour 2/3 cup skim evaporated milk into another cup. Add ¾ tsp. Serve. Combine the first four ingredients together in a heavy saucepan. Whisk the ingredients. Gradually add the milk and half and half to the mixture. Serve. Heat 2 ½ cups of milk in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Add 4 oz. Add ¾ tsp. Remove the red pepper strips. Serve. Whisk together the milk, cinnamon, vanilla extract, and nutmeg in a large pot over medium heat. Add chocolate chips to the mixture. Cover and cook on low heat for 5 minutes. Serve. Finished. Get a frying pan, milk and chocolate chips. Pour the milk and chocolate chips in. Mix it for one to two minutes. Pour it in a cup, either by just pouring it in or with a big spoon. Serve. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Bolt-Into-Concrete | How to Bolt Into Concrete | To bolt into concrete, you'll need a hammer drill, a titanium or carbide-tipped drill bit, and wedge anchors. The first thing to do is put your drill into hammer mode and drill a hole in the concrete. Clean any concrete dust out of each hole you drill with a vacuum cleaner or wire brush. Once you've drilled the holes you need, line up your fixture with the holes. Place the anchor's pin into the hole and hammer it into place. Finally, tighten the nut on your anchor with a ratchet to fix it firmly in place. | Get a hammer drill. Buy or rent a hammer drill at a hardware store or online. A hammer drill is specially designed to drill into harder surfaces like stone and concrete. Hammer drills have a rotating and pounding motion, which makes it easier to drill into masonry work like concrete. Attempting to penetrate concrete with a regular drill may damage it, unless you go very slowly and use a carbide-tipped masonry bit on a soft stone, like limestone. Purchase wedge anchors. You can buy wedge anchors online or at a hardware store. Other anchors can work with concrete and brick but wedge anchors are a good all-around anchor that you can use on light or heavy materials. Purchase anchors that penetrate into the concrete at least one inch (2.54 cm). Look on the box to find the diameter of your wedge anchors so that you can get a drill bit that's the same size. Other anchors include sleeve anchors, strike anchors, hammer drive anchors, drop-in anchors, and machine screw anchors. Buy a titanium or carbide-tipped masonry drill bit. A titanium or carbide-tipped drill bit will penetrate through the hard concrete. You can purchase a carbide-tipped drill bit online or at a hardware store. Choose a bit that is a slightly smaller diameter than the anchors that you plan on using. Wrap a piece of tape .5 inches (1.27 cm) from the tip of the drill bit. Use a tape measure or ruler to measure from the tip of the drill bit. Wrap a piece of tape around the bit at this measurement. This will help you know how deep you are drilling. Wear the proper safety gear. Hammer drills are loud and drilling into concrete will send concrete dust and debris into the air. To stay safe, wear a pair of protective glasses, a face mask, gloves, and long pants. You should also insert earplugs. Drill into the concrete. Put your drill into hammer mode by flipping the switch on the side of the tool. Hold the hammer drill perpendicular to the concrete and press the bit against the concrete. Once it's in the correct position, pull the trigger while applying pressure on the back of the drill. Pulse your finger on the trigger at 5-second intervals until you've drilled up to the tape that you wrapped around the bit. Read the instructions if you can't figure out how to put your hammer drill into hammer mode. Clean the dust out of the hole. Use a compressed air can or a vacuum cleaner to work out debris and dust in the hole. Fasteners will grip better to clean holes, and there will be a lot of concrete dust after you've drilled the hole. You can also move a wire brush in and out of the hole to remove any leftover debris. Use a shop-vac when lifting concrete dust, not a household vacuum cleaner. Place the fixture over the concrete and line up the holes. Line up your fixture or whatever you want to attach to the concrete. Line up the hole that you drilled into the concrete with the hole in the fixture. The hole in your fixture must be the same diameter of the anchor that you're bolting into the concrete. Slide a washer and nut over the threaded end of the anchor. The nut and washer will help protect the anchor and prevent it from getting stripped by being hammered in. Put the nut first, then the washer so that the nut is over the washer but under the pin on the tip of the anchor. Apply Loctite to the bolt to keep it from moving. Alternatively, you could use a locking washer. Hammer the anchor into the hole in the concrete. Drop the anchor into the hole in your fixture and hammer the pin on the top of the anchor to drive it into the concrete hole you drilled earlier. It should be a fairly tight fit. Continue to hammer the anchor down until the nut and washer are tight against the fixture. Tighten the nut with a ratchet. Turn the nut clockwise with your hands to tighten it, then use a ratchet to tighten it until it's firmly attached to your fixture. As you tighten the nut, the anchor should grip to the concrete, holding your fixture in place. | Get a hammer drill. Purchase wedge anchors. Buy a titanium or carbide-tipped masonry drill bit. Wrap a piece of tape .5 inches (1.27 cm) from the tip of the drill bit. Wear the proper safety gear. Drill into the concrete. Clean the dust out of the hole. Place the fixture over the concrete and line up the holes. Slide a washer and nut over the threaded end of the anchor. Hammer the anchor into the hole in the concrete. Tighten the nut with a ratchet. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Treat-Psittacine-Beak-and-Feather-Disease-in-Cockatoos | How to Treat Psittacine Beak and Feather Disease in Cockatoos | To treat psittacine beak and feather disease in a cockatoo, it's important that you take your bird to the vet so they can recommend the best treatment plan. Unfortunately, there's currently no cure for the virus, but your vet can prescribe medication to help your cockatoo's symptoms improve, and some birds do end up recovering from the virus. Additionally, there are things you can do at home to improve your cockatoo's quality of life, like feeding it a high-quality diet, giving it probiotics to support its immune system, and sterilizing its cage regularly. You should also take your cockatoo to the vet whenever it's sick since birds with psittacine beak and feather disease are more susceptible to secondary infections. | Watch for the symptoms of the disease. Cockatoos with PBFD will lose their down feathers and will be constantly be moulting, or shedding. They will also develop dystrophic feathers, which appear very thin, stunted, or misshapen. Cockatoos with PBFD will also develop lesions on their beak, which will appear as dry sores that are irritated or red. Take your cockatoo to the vet right away. If you notice any symptoms of PBFD in your cockatoo, contact your vet and bring in the bird for a diagnosis as soon as possible. Catching PBFD early can give you a chance to nurse the bird and maintain its quality of life. Call your vet before you go in so they know you are bringing in a cockatoo with PBFD. The virus is highly contagious and your bird should be kept away from other pets at the vet. Allow the vet to do tests on the cockatoo. The vet will do a physical exam of the cockatoo. They will also take a sample of the cockatoo's skin, blood, and feathers for testing. The tests should show if the bird has PBFD. Keep in mind some cockatoos will display no clinical signs of the virus and still test positive for PBFD. Your vet may test the cockatoo twice, once on your first visit, and then 60-90 days later. If both samples are positive, the cockatoo has chronic PBFD and will be considered permanently infected. Discuss treatment options. If the vet confirms the cockatoo has PBFD, they will outline possible treatment options for your bird. There is currently no treatment for the virus and it is often considered fatal. However, your vet can give the bird antiviral drugs that may help the cockatoo's symptoms improve. You can also do home care and maintain the bird's quality of life so it does not suffer. In some cases, birds with PBFD that receive good home care do recover from the virus. Note that PBFD weakens your cockatoo's immune system, making them more vulnerable to serious secondary infections. Seek prompt treatment if you suspect a secondary condition has developed. If your cockatoo is diagnosed with chronic PBFD, its chances of survival long-term are slim. The vet may recommend euthanizing the cockatoo to stop its suffering and prevent it from having to deal with the degenerative symptoms of the virus. Quarantine the infected bird. PBFD is highly contagious and birds with the virus should be separated from other birds and pets in your household. Keep the bird in a separate cage in a separate area or room. Make sure the bird does not interact with other pets. You will need to quarantine the bird until it has fully recovered from PBFD. Only once it has been tested by your vet and confirmed free of the virus should you let it interact with other pets. Provide a diet rich in nutrients and vitamins. Make sure you feed the cockatoo bird pellets that are high quality. Pellets should make up 80 to 90 percent of their diet. You can give the bird fruits like apples, pears, and bananas. Cockatoos also like vegetables like squash, sweet potatoes, broccoli, and kale. Always wash and slice fruits and vegetables before giving them to the cockatoo. Remove the skin on the fruits and vegetables as well. Include grains like rice, quinoa, and beans in their diet. About 10 to 20 percent of their diet should be grains, fruits, and vegetables. Mix up their meals so the bird gets a variety of foods that are fresh. Do not give birds avocados, as they can be fatal. Give the cockatoo probiotics. Talk to your vet about probiotics that are safe for your cockatoo. Probiotics help to support your bird's immune system and prevent secondary infections that can make its condition worse. Most probiotics are given orally with the cockatoo's food. Ask your vet about the appropriate dosage for your cockatoo. Do not give the cockatoo more than the recommended amount. Treat the cockatoo for secondary infections. Birds with PBFD are susceptible to infections in their lungs, eyes, and skin. If you notice the bird is having breathing problems, sight issues, or skin issues, get it treated right away. Bring it to the vet for a diagnosis and treat all secondary infections so they do not get worse. Treating secondary infections will ensure the cockatoo maintains a decent quality of life while it tries to recover from PBFD. Untreated secondary infections can put the bird's life in danger. Sterilize the cockatoo’s cage regularly. Clean the cockatoo's cage once a day and once a week. Sterilize it with a vinegar solution or a bleach solution. If you use bleach to clean the cockatoo's cage, make sure you rinse the cage well so there is no remaining bleach in the cage. You should also clean the cockatoo's food and water dishes. Do not use the same cleaning supplies for the cockatoo's cage and other pet cages in your home. This can spread the virus. Purchase cockatoos from a reputable breeder. A good breeder will test their birds for any viruses or infections before they are sold. They can also provide the medical history of the bird and confirm the bird is healthy. Get all cockatoos tested for the disease. Your vet can perform the test quickly and efficiently. Always test every cockatoo or bird that you buy before you bring it into your home. This will ensure your other pets are not at risk of PBFD. Be careful when handling other birds. Do not handle birds that appear to have feather shedding or lesions. Avoid touching birds if you do not know its medical history. Do not let your cockatoos interact with other birds unless you know their medical history and are sure they do not have PBFD. Always wash your hands well before and after handling your cockatoo, as well as other birds. | Watch for the symptoms of the disease. Take your cockatoo to the vet right away. Allow the vet to do tests on the cockatoo. Discuss treatment options. Quarantine the infected bird. Provide a diet rich in nutrients and vitamins. Give the cockatoo probiotics. Treat the cockatoo for secondary infections. Sterilize the cockatoo’s cage regularly. Purchase cockatoos from a reputable breeder. Get all cockatoos tested for the disease. Be careful when handling other birds. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Treat-Lovebird-Pox | How to Treat Lovebird Pox | While there's no specific cure for lovebird pox, the good news is that the disease can go away on its own. To help your bird as it fights off the illness, bring it to the vet whenever you notice the common symptoms, including wart-like scaly growths on its eyes, beak, legs, and feet or lesions in its oral or nasal cavities. If your vet diagnoses your lovebird with avian pox, they may give you a prescription for eye ointment that you can administer to your bird to treat eye infections caused by the condition. Along with following your vet's instructions, you can help your bird recover by giving it vitamin A, which will support its skin health, and tube feeding it if it has trouble eating. You can also moisten your bird's scabs to alleviate its discomfort. | Identify the symptoms of lovebird pox. There are two different types of lovebird pox and they cause two different types of pox. Dry lovebird pox affect the exterior of the bird's body and wet lovebird pox affects the inside of the lovebird's body. Dry avian pox causes wart-like scaly growths on the featherless areas of the surface of a bird's body. They can show up around the eyes, the beak, or on the legs and feet. Avian pox that appear on the eyes can be mistaken for conjunctivitis. "Growths" on the actual eyes are usually avian pox. Wet avian pox causes lesions in the mucus membranes of the bird, specifically in the oral and nasal cavities of the lovebird. These lesions are harder to spot than the dry version but they can be even more serious, as they can interfere with the breathing and eating of the bird. Get a veterinary diagnosis. Take your lovebird to a veterinarian if you suspect avian pox. When you call for an appointment, let the veterinary office know that you suspect pox, so that they can keep your bird isolated and avoid spreading the infection. The symptoms of lovebird pox may look a lot like tumors, abscesses, or a bacterial or viral infection. This is why a veterinary diagnosis is necessary. Diagnosis of avian pox is done by biopsying the pox and looking at the it under a microscope. Treat secondary infections. Additional infections, such as candidiasis, can establish themselves in the open wounds caused by the pox. Your veterinarian is likely to prescribe an antibiotic to help eliminate this type of additional infection. For example, your veterinarian may prescribe an eye ointment to treat eye infections caused by the pox. Give supportive care. There is no specific treatment for the virus that causes lovebird pox. However, there are a variety of things that can be done to make your bird more comfortable and to support its immune system. These include: Give your bird vitamin A to increase the health of the birds skin. Tube feed the bird if it is having difficulty eating. Moisten scabs that are causing the bird discomfort. Keep infected birds isolated. Lovebird pox can be spread by feather dust or the feces of an infected bird. If another lovebird comes into contact with the feather dust and feces of an infected bird, then it can easily become infected. Do not allow direct contact between a lovebird that you know to be infected and one that does not show symptoms. This means that they should be kept in completely different rooms Sterilize all supplies. If you have multiple lovebirds, and one is infected, then you need to sterilize all supplies to avoid cross contamination after the sick bird is isolated. All supplies should be disinfected with bleach before being used between a bird that is infected and birds that are not. It takes some work to eliminate the lovebird pox virus because it does not die when it is dried out. Use chlorine bleach on all surfaces of all bird supplies and cages to kill the virus. Eliminate mosquito breeding grounds. Lovebird pox can be spread by mosquitoes. If your bird can come into contact with mosquitoes, whether it spends time outdoors or you allow fresh air in your house, then you need to minimize mosquitoes in the area. Get rid of standing water near your home. These can become mosquito breeding grounds. Transmission via mosquitoes occurs when a mosquito bites a bird with lesions and then bites another bird. | Identify the symptoms of lovebird pox. Get a veterinary diagnosis. Treat secondary infections. Give supportive care. Keep infected birds isolated. Sterilize all supplies. Eliminate mosquito breeding grounds. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Make-a-Boat-in-Minecraft | How to Make a Boat in Minecraft | To craft a boat in Minecraft, chop 2 blocks of wood from any tree type and craft them into planks. Arrange them in your crafting grid by placing 3 planks across the bottom 3 slots, 1 plank above the bottom-left plank, and the last plank above the bottom-right plank to create a U shape. Craft the boat and drag it into your inventory to save it. Place your boat in the water by selecting it and right-clicking a calm spot of water. Right-click on the boat to enter it, and press the left Shift key to exit. | Gather your materials. You will need five Wood Planks from any wood type, and they don't all have to be from the same type of tree. You can get four Wood Planks from one block of Wood. Blocks of Wood can be obtained from chopping down trees, found in some NPC villages, and occasionally found in mineshafts. Arrange the Wood Planks in your Crafting grid. Arrange the Wood Planks as follows: Place three Wood Planks across the bottom three slots of the Crafting grid. Place one Wood Plank one slot above the bottom-left Plank. Place the last Wood Plank one slot above the bottom-right Plank. All other slots should remain empty. Craft the Boat. You can immediately add the Boat to your inventory by dragging it into one of the lower slots or by holding Shift and clicking on it. Place your boat on the water. Find a calm spot on the water, select your Boat from you inventory, and then right-click on the water. Your boat will be placed. If it is placed on a current, it will start to follow the current. A boat can also be placed on land by right clicking. It can be controlled on land but its movement will be extremely slow. They also sink into ground so you may need to get out by destroying a block beside it. The boat can be placed on lava, but it will break when you try to enter it. Get into a boat. Right-click on the boat to enter it. You can do so from any direction, including beneath it after diving. Press the left Shift key to exit the boat. Pilot the boat. The boat will go in any direction you are pointing your cursor when you hold the W button. Pressing the Back S key will quickly turn the boat around in the opposite direction. Boats are extremely fragile, and can break easily in a crash.To prevent them from crashing, slow down before you get near an island. If a boat does get destroyed in a crash, it will drop three Wood Planks and two Sticks. If the boat is destroyed by an attack, (skeleton shoots it) it will drop a Boat. You can Sprint while using the boat to move slightly faster. | Gather your materials. Arrange the Wood Planks in your Crafting grid. Craft the Boat. Place your boat on the water. Get into a boat. Pilot the boat. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Treat-an-Injured-Rabbit%27s-Paw | How to Treat an Injured Rabbit's Paw | To treat an injured rabbit's paw if you think it's sprained, wrap a cold ice pack in a clean towel and put it on the affected leg. Alternatively, if you think the leg is broken, wrap it with gauze before putting something firm, like a pencil or popsicle stick, against it to act as a splint. Then, use tape or a self-adhesive bandage to wrap the leg with the splint, making sure not to wrap so tightly that you risk cutting off the rabbit's circulation. Once you've treated the injury, take it to the vet as soon as you can for further treatment. | Identify sore hocks. Pododermatitis, also called sore hocks, is a common ailment among rabbits. This painful condition can be easily prevented with proper exercise and comfortable housing. Once the condition has set in, though, you'll need to take quick action to treat the injury. Leaving it untreated will lead to infections and further pain. Early signs of sore hocks include loss of hair on the bottom of the affected paw(s). As the condition worsens, the exposed skin will turn red and become inflamed. Ulcers and scabs may develop if left untreated, followed by a skin abscess. In severe cases, this may lead to inflammation of the tendons and deep tissues in your rabbit's paw. If the condition gets to the point of your rabbit displaying an abnormal stance and walking pattern, it may have inflicted severe and permanent damage. Do not attempt to wrap up sore hocks if there are any open sores, as this may make the injury worse. If caught early, you should be able to treat sore hocks at home. However, if you notice any advanced signs of sore hocks, you should take your rabbit to see your veterinarian as soon as possible. Make a rabbit fur compress. In order to treat sore hocks, you'll need to replace the missing fur with some of the rabbit's own fur (or, ideally, from another rabbit). This will help pad the injury until the skin heals and the fur begins to regrow. To make a fur compress, you will need to: Brush some spare fur off of your rabbit. Ideally, you should brush it off of a healthy rabbit to avoid further trauma to the injured animal, but if you only have one rabbit it will do. Roll the fur between the palms of your hands until you form a mat of fur approximately two inches long, two inches wide, and one inch deep. The mat of fur you form should be soft and spongy, but with some firmness. Do not attempt to use cotton, gauze, or any other type of man-made padding. These materials can form hard mats while applied to the paw, which may further irritate the injury. Keep in mind that although rabbit fur provides excellent padding, it is not sterile. Therefore, there is a risk of introducing an infection to an open sore. To reduce this risk, avoid using rabbit fur on an open wound. The fur may stick to blood or other secretions and this can make it hard to remove the fur. That is why this method is best for skin that is merely red and inflamed, rather than broken. Cut a self-adhesive bandage. Once you've made a fur mat, you'll need to secure it in place. The easiest way to do this is by cutting a self-adhesive bandage to the correct size and shape so that you can then apply it to the affected paw. Something specifically made for pets, such as VetWrap, is ideal. In a pinch, though, self-adhesive bandages for humans can work. Cut a long strip of self-adhesive bandage. It should be approximately nine inches long and two inches wide. Next, cut straight lines down the strip lengthwise from both ends, leaving approximately one inch of strip uncut in the middle. It should look somewhat like an H or an X. Place the fur mat on the injured paw. Have someone carefully hold your rabbit on its back, with its underside facing up. Then gently press the pad you made out of rabbit fur against the bare spot on the rabbit's sole. Remember that you should only use fur, not cotton or any other man-made material.Try to gently tuck some of the rabbit's remaining paw fur over the bare spot to secure the fur mat in place. Wrap up the injured paw. Keep your materials close at hand. You will need the fur mat that you made and the pre-cut self-adhesive bandage to secure it in place. Have a friend continue to hold the rabbit securely so that you can focus on treating its paw. Position the uncut middle section of your self-adhesive bandage over the rabbit's heel and ankle. Make sure the fur mat is still in place before wrapping. Wrap the four strips of the self-adhesive bandage above and below the rabbit's ankle to secure the fur mat in place. Do not wrap too tightly, as this can worsen the condition. The wrap should be loose enough that you could easily slide a popsicle stick between the rabbit's leg and the bandage, but tight enough to stay on and in place. (Do not actually stick anything inside the bandage; just eyeball it to make sure it's not too tight.) Cut a flex point out of the wrap carefully. Once the wrap is on, you'll need to cut out a small flex point. This is because rabbits naturally bend and flex their ankles in order to sit, stand, and move. Without a flex point, your rabbit could develop new sores on the front of its ankle underneath the wrap. Pull up on the bandaging in the front (above the rabbit's ankle). Pinch and hold the bandage away from the skin so you don't cut through to the leg. Use blunt-tipped scissors to avoid stabbing or cutting the rabbit's paw. Your rabbit may be jumpy at this point, so have your friend continue to hold the rabbit tightly, and exercise great care as you cut out the flex point. The flex point should ideally be cut in the shape of a diamond or a circle to best facilitate movement. Check the front of the foot every few hours. Once you've finished wrapping up the paw, you'll want to check on the rest of the foot every few hours. Look for swelling and/or redness in the toes and front part of the foot (which should remain unwrapped). If you notice any redness or swelling, it means you've wrapped the foot too tightly. However, if the bandage has spun around or gotten bunched up around the ankle or knee, it means you've wrapped it too loosely. If there are any problems with the wrap (too loose or too tight), have someone hold your rabbit with its belly up again. Unwrap the bandaging and carefully rewrap it accordingly. Even if bandaged correctly, you'll need to rewrap the injury with fresh bandages and new fur mats every day. If the bandaging gets wet or soiled in any way, unwrap it and change the dressings immediately to prevent infection. Follow up with your veterinarian for a full evaluation to ensure that there's nothing else wrong and to see if antibiotics are needed. Recognize the signs of a sprained leg. It may be difficult to differentiate a sprained leg from a fractured or broken leg. If you are certain that the leg is just sprained, you should be able to care for it at home on your own. If you're unsure about what's wrong with your rabbit, or if there's a chance the rabbit's leg or back might be broken, you'll need to take it to a vet for a firm diagnosis and treatment plan. Look for the following signs as common indicators of a sprained leg: wobbliness or weakness in one leg a hunched walk that favors three out of four legs ability to bear some weight on the leg, but with a limp Apply cold therapy to the affected leg. Cold therapy is the best treatment for any sprain. The ice pack will reduce the flow of blood to the site of the injury, which can help reduce swelling and inflammation. It can also reduce some of the pain at the site of the injury. Wrap a cold ice pack in a clean dish towel or washcloth. Apply the wrapped ice pack directly to the affected leg. You may need someone to help hold your rabbit so that you can continue to apply the ice pack. Try to leave it on for about 10 minutes, if your rabbit will let you. If not, try to keep the ice pack on for as long as possible. Call your veterinarian to schedule an appointment so that he or she can give your rabbit a full physical examination. Identify which leg is injured. If your rabbit is having difficulty walking or is completely incapable of walking, it is probably suffering from a leg injury. If your rabbit is dangling or dragging one leg, it is most likely broken. If the rabbit limps but seems to be capable of carrying some weight on the injured leg, it may be sprained, dislocated, or fractured. Your vet will need to evaluate the injury to determine how serious it is and how to remedy it. Pick your bunny up while supporting its rear with your other hand. While still holding your rabbit (do not let go or drop the rabbit at any time), gently try to get the rabbit to stand with good footing. Whichever leg the rabbit tries to avoid standing on is most likely the injured leg. If your rabbit drags both hind legs, it may have suffered a spinal injury and will need immediate veterinary assistance. Your vet will need to administer steroids and other medications, and may put a body cast on as well. Splint the injured leg. If your rabbit will let you, the best way to treat a leg before taking your rabbit to the vet is to splint the leg with something firm. This will help reduce painful movements of the limb until your vet can examine the injury and treat it accordingly. Wrap clean gauze around the leg above and below the site where you think the leg is broken. Gently place a pencil, popsicle stick, or similarly firm object lengthwise against the outside of the leg, covering the suspected site of the break and extending above and below it. Use tape or a self-adhesive bandage to wrap the leg, including the splint, up and down the leg. Make sure you don't wrap too tightly, or you may risk cutting off circulation to the rabbit's paw. If your rabbit's paw turns red or swollen, you've wrapped it too tightly and will need to rewrap it accordingly. Wrap your rabbit in a clean towel. If your rabbit won't let you splint the injury, or if your rabbit is being difficult about handling after splinting the injury, you may need to wrap it in a towel. This will allow you to easily handle and carry your rabbit without further injuring the broken leg. However, you'll need to take great caution while wrapping the rabbit in a towel, as it may be frightened or in pain at this point. Use a clean, dry towel. Wrap the towel around your rabbit snugly, leaving the head uncovered. Make sure the rabbit's back and hind end are in a natural position, and that the spine is not bent or twisted. See a vet right away. You'll need to put your rabbit inside a carrier, even if you had to wrap the rabbit in a towel first. Carefully place the rabbit inside the carrier (towel and all) and take the rabbit to your veterinarian right away. It's important that you don't delay, as an untreated broken limb could be a very serious injury. Recognize the signs of an injured rabbit. Before you can treat any injury, you'll need to be able to identify the signs of an injured rabbit. Since rabbits cannot vocalize pain like some other animals can, you'll need to watch your rabbit's behavior and carefully examine any suspected injuries. An injured rabbit may display strange behavior, or it may act perfectly normal. Look for prolonged lack of movement, extended periods of time spent lying on its side, tilting of the head, falling over, difficulty moving, and an inability to move in a straight line. Contact your vet any time you're unsure about your rabbit's behavior. Prevent sore hocks. Sore hocks is an easily-preventable ailment that usually stems from an improper diet and exercise regimen or from a painful or unsanitary living area. Take precautions to ensure that your rabbit is eating healthy (and not overeating), getting enough exercise outside of the cage every day, and has a comfortable space inside its cage. If you use a metal wire cage, make sure your rabbit has some type of surface inside the cage (like a flat board, for example) to sit, stand, and lie on so that the wires do not dig into its paws all day. You should also provide two to three inches of soft bedding material for your rabbit to sit on. This will help to take some of the pressure off of your rabbit's hocks. If you use a solid, flat-bottomed cage, make sure you keep the floor clean. Wipe away urine and other spills on a daily basis, as exposure to urine will irritate the tissue and burn the skin. Keep your rabbit on a healthy, regulated diet and give it plenty of exercise time outside the cage to prevent obesity. Being overweight is a common cause of sore hocks in rabbits, and it can easily be prevented. Use caution when lifting and handling rabbits, to prevent injury. One of the most common causes of broken, fractured, and sprained limbs and backs in rabbits is improper handling. Any time you lift your rabbit, you need to be careful and anticipate that it might flail or try to jump out of your arms, which could cause serious injury. If your rabbit struggles when you restrain it or try to lift it, don't try to force your grip. Let go of your rabbit and focus on calming it down before you try to pick it up or handle it again. Forcing your rabbit to let you handle it will only cause the rabbit to panic and flail more, which could result in broken limbs (if it falls) or even a broken back. Get close to the ground before attempting to lift a rabbit. Hold it gently but firmly with one hand supporting the rabbit's back and hind end at all times. | Identify sore hocks. Make a rabbit fur compress. Cut a self-adhesive bandage. Place the fur mat on the injured paw. Wrap up the injured paw. Cut a flex point out of the wrap carefully. Check the front of the foot every few hours. Recognize the signs of a sprained leg. Apply cold therapy to the affected leg. Identify which leg is injured. Splint the injured leg. Wrap your rabbit in a clean towel. See a vet right away. Recognize the signs of an injured rabbit. Prevent sore hocks. Use caution when lifting and handling rabbits, to prevent injury. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Deal-With-Getting-Your-First-Period-at-School | How to Deal With Getting Your First Period at School | Dealing with getting your first period at school can seem stressful, but if you learn how to prepare, you won't be caught off guard. Try to keep a pad stashed in your locker or backpack for when it happens. Or, if you don't have one, you can always ask another girl or ask the school nurse. When you first get your period, don't be embarrassed. Every woman goes through this, and it's likely that your classmates won't even notice. Ask to go to the bathroom and sit down on the toilet. You can use toilet paper to clean up any spots on your legs. Then, unwrap your pad and remove the backing. Stick it to the center of the pad in the crotch of your underwear. If you got any stains on your pants, you can wrap a sweater around your waist to cover it up for the rest of the day. | Obtain a pad. Perhaps you were prepared and have a pad stashed in your locker, but maybe this isn't the case for you. Not to worry! Simply ask any girl in school who you think might have their period. No need to be embarrassed! Women sharing feminine hygiene products is a practice as old as time! It is part of the code of being a girl. Your bathrooms at school may have a coin-operated dispenser that sells pads. You can also visit your school nurse. There will certainly be pads available there. Pull your underwear down to your knees. Sit down on the toilet so any blood will drip into the toilet bowl and not onto the floor or your clothing. Clean up your body using some toilet paper. Unwrap the pad and remove the backing. Carefully open the packaging around your pad and remove it. You may want to save the wrapper for later. It is perfect for disposing of your pad when it's time to change. Then, remove the backing to expose the adhesive. Usually, you will find a long piece of wax-like paper covering the sticky-side on the bottom of the pad. (In some brands, the outer wrapper may also double as backing, so the adhesive may already be exposed). Center the pad in the crotch of your underwear. On most underwear, there is a cotton strip that you can use as a guide. Basically, you want the pad to cover the part that goes between your legs. If your pad has one wider or bigger side, it should go toward the back of your underwear (toward your butt). Make sure the adhesive is stuck firmly to the fabric of your underwear. If your pad has wings, remove the backing and fold them around the middle part of your underwear, so it looks like the pad is hugging your underwear — its arms wrapped around the crotch of the underwear. Make sure the pad isn't too far forward or too far back. It should be centered. Pull your underwear up. Make sure that your underwear and the pad fit snugly against your body. It might be a little uncomfortable at first (reminiscent of a diaper), but you will get used to it. You should change your pad every three to four hours (or sooner if you have a really heavy flow). Create a make-shift pad. If you are not able to locate a pad, don't worry. You can use toilet paper to create a make-shift pad until you go home or can get to the nurse's office. Simply take a long piece of toilet paper and fold it into a rectangle. Place your toilet paper rectangle in the crotch of your underwear. Then take another long piece of toilet paper, and wrap it around both the rectangle and your underpants, holding the make-shift pad in place. You will want to check this more often that you would check a traditional pad, but it should do the trick! Go see the nurse. If you have just gotten your first period, a visit to the school nurse might be a good idea. The nurse can provide you with pads if you need them, and you can probably lay down for a little while to feel better and gain your composure. The nurse may also have a hot water bottle or heating pad you can place on your belly (for cramps), or some over-the-counter pain medication (like ibuprofen). Wrap a sweater around your waist. Although first periods are usually very light, there is still a chance that you might get some blood on your pants. If this happens to you, simply wrap a long-sleeved shirt around your waist to cover it up. If you don't have one, you may be able to borrow from a friend. The school nurse may also have extra clothes on hand for you to borrow. Don’t be embarrassed. The most important thing is to keep a good attitude. It's true that you might not feel very well when you have your period, and it can be a lot to handle, but it is a natural and important part of life! It means that you are a growing and changing. Having your period is something that should be celebrated, not something you should ever feel ashamed of. Remind yourself that almost every woman goes through this! Look around you: just about every adult woman you see has experienced what you are going through. Try to have a sense of humor about it! Read about period jokes online and share them with your girlfriends. Such as, "Jokes about menstrual cycles are not funny. Period." Learn about what to expect. The more educated you are on the subject, the easier it will be to stay calm when it happens. Your first period will probably be very light, and may not even look like blood. You may notice your period as bright red drops in your underwear, but it could also be any shade from maroon to brown. Also, don't worry that you will be losing a lot of blood. The average woman loses only about 1 oz. (30 ml) of blood during her period. When your period comes, you may notice a feeling of wetness in your underwear. You may even feel liquid flowing out of your vagina, or you may not notice anything at all. If you are scared of blood or bleeding, try framing it this way: your period isn't blood from a wound or injury. The blood from your period is actually a sign that you're healthy. Many girls have undergone an early form of sex ed sometime between grades 4 and 6, which normally discusses periods and what to do when you get your first period. If you've taken one of these classes, make a mental note of any information you've learned about periods. It helps to remember such information when you get your period. Talk to someone you trust. One of the best ways to learn about what to expect is to talk to your mom, older sister, aunt, cousin, or friend who has already gotten their period. This way you can have an open, back and forth conversation, and ask any questions you may have. Furthermore, girls often begin their periods around the same age as their mother or sisters did. So if talking to your mom or sister is an option, find out when they started and what is was like. You can simply say, "I'm nervous about getting my first period." (Or if you have already started, "I just started my first period.") Then you can say, "What was it like when you started yours?" Buy supplies. Your local drugstore or grocery store will probably have an entire aisle dedicated to feminine hygiene products. There are a lot of choices, and eventually you'll figure which products you like best. To start out, look for pads that aren't too bulky or noticeable. You will probably want light or medium absorbency.. Pads are probably the easiest thing to start out with. You will have enough to think about without worrying about how to properly insert a tampon. However, if you would prefer to use a tampon or a menstrual cup during your first period, that is OK too. It is most important for you to feel comfortable. If you feel embarrassed about buying pads or tampons, just remember that the cashier really doesn't care what you are buying and it's nothing new or shocking to them. Store supplies at school. It is a good idea to store some pads in your backpack, purse, gym bag, and/or locker at school (just one or two in each place is fine). If you have the supplies with you at school, you do not need to worry about your first period catching you by surprise. You may want to get a makeup bag or pencil case to store your period supplies. You may also want to hide a pair of underwear in your locker just in case. You may also want to keep a little bottle of ibuprofen or other over-the-counter pain medication in your locker to help with cramps (just check your school's policy on this first). You may also want to toss in a bar of chocolate, as it has been proven to help with PMS and give your mood a boost. Watch for signs that your period is coming. There is no surefire way to know that your period is approaching, but there are some signs that might give you a clue. If you experience a stomach or backache, cramps in your abdomen, or sore breasts it may mean that your first period is approaching. Women can get their first periods as early as eight years old and as old as 16. The average age is 12. You may notice a white discharge in your underpants up to six months before getting your first period. Your period usually comes after you have reached 100 pounds. | Obtain a pad. Pull your underwear down to your knees. Unwrap the pad and remove the backing. Center the pad in the crotch of your underwear. Pull your underwear up. Create a make-shift pad. Go see the nurse. Wrap a sweater around your waist. Don’t be embarrassed. Learn about what to expect. Talk to someone you trust. Buy supplies. Store supplies at school. Watch for signs that your period is coming. |
https://www.wikihow.pet/Treat-Epilepsy-in-German-Shepherds | How to Treat Epilepsy in German Shepherds | To treat epilepsy in your German Shepherd, take it to the vet if it's had regular seizures on several occasions. At the appointment, provide the vet with your dog's medical history, and let them conduct blood and urine tests to rule out other causes for the seizures. If no other condition is found, your vet will diagnose your dog with primary epilepsy. At that point, they'll advise you of treatment options, which may include medication like phenobarbital. You'll need to give your dog the medication twice a day for the rest of its life, and take it to the vet regularly for adjustments to its dosage. Additionally, be prepared to deal with side effects, which can include sedation and a lack of coordination. | Watch for warning signs before a seizure. Some dogs show warning signs before they have seizures. Your dog's muscles may twitch and he may have bowel problems. Pay attention to changes in your German Shepherd's behavior. The following can be signs that a seizure is on the way. Your dog seems: Scared Worried Clingy Dazed and confused Stay calm and give your dog space. Unfortunately, there's not much you can or should do while your dog is having a seizure. Try to stay calm while your dog gets through the seizure. Since dogs can be unpredictable and cause injury while having a seizure, you should avoid: Holding your German Shepherd Handling or touching your dog Letting your German Shepherd around other dogs Make the area safe. While you shouldn't try to restrain your dog, you should make his environment safe. As soon as you see him experiencing a seizure, remove anything around him that could be dangerous if he bumped, ran, or fell onto it. For example, you should block off the stairs or close doors so your dog doesn't get outside. You should also keep the area quiet. Your German Shepherd is already being overwhelmed so a quiet, calm space can make him more comfortable. Contact the veterinarian after the seizure. As soon as you notice your dog having a seizure, try to take a video of it. When you talk to the vet, you can show the video which will help determine if your German Shepherd did have a seizure or if he's experiencing a different condition or behavior. Keep an eye on your German Shepherd after the seizure. He may still have trouble walking or moving and may have temporary blindness or bleeding. Distinguish between seizures and epilepsy. During a seizure, your dog may twitch or shake uncontrollably. Seizures can be a one-time event, caused by a specific illness or injury. If your dog experiences multiple seizures, though, this may be a symptom of epilepsy. Track if and when your dog has seizures, and how long they last. This could help your vet decide on treatment options. It is typically impossible to find the underlying cause of epilepsy. Seizures, on the other hand, could be caused by a number of separate things, including: eating toxic substances, diabetes, low blood sugar, brain infections, liver or kidney disease, strokes, or blood problems. Get your German Shepherd examined. The vet will take a complete medical history of your dog and examine him for a head injury. The vet will also want to know what your dog has recently eaten. Although there aren't diagnostic tests for epilepsy, the vet will do blood work, urine testing, and possibly an electrocardiogram (ECG). These are done to rule out other conditions. If other conditions are found, your dog is diagnosed with secondary epilepsy. Get a diagnosis of epilepsy. If the vet can find no cause for the repeated seizures, your German Shepherd will be diagnosed with primary or idiopathic epilepsy. This true form of epilepsy means that your dog's brain is experiencing uncontrolled bursts of energy that aren't caused by any illness or injury. Primary epilepsy usually shows up in dogs between the ages of 6 months to 6 years of age. German Shepherds can inherit the condition. Follow the veterinarian's treatment plan. Seizures caused by epilepsy are primarily treated by medication to reduce the number and severity of symptoms. Since these medications can cause side effects (like liver and kidney damage), talk with your doctor about the risks and benefits to your dog. If your dog is having frequent seizures (more than a few times a month) or if they last for long periods of time (more than five minutes), it's time to consider medication treatment. Most medications have to be given once or twice a day for your dog's life. Twice daily medication is to be given 12 hours apart since late or missed doses can cause seizures. Your dog will need frequent vet visits to adjust medication levels. Give your dog phenobarbital. Phenobarbital is the most common medication used in German Shepherds with epilepsy. It works by suppressing seizure activity in the brain. Your dog will have short-term symptoms like increased hunger or thirst. Monitor your dog's diet so he doesn't gain weight. Other symptoms include: Mild sedation Incoordination Liver damage (long-term side effect) Treat with potassium bromide. If your dog doesn't respond to phenobarbital, the vet will also prescribe potassium or sodium bromide. Potassium bromide can work with phenobarbital to decrease seizure activity in the brain. You can mix the medication into your dog's food or treats. Avoid feeding salty foods since it can make the medication less effective. Other side effects include: Sedation Incoordination Increased hunger and thirst Hind-end weakness (contact the vet immediately if you see this) Use gabapentin. This anti-epileptic drug is usually prescribed along with other medications to control generalized seizures. It's also used to relieve pain, but may cause serious side effects like kidney damage. If you notice any of the following signs, contact the veterinarian: Diarrhea Vomiting Loss of balance Sleeping an unusually long amount of time Bulging eyes Put your dog on Pexion. Since many traditional epilepsy medications cause liver or kidney damage over time, new epilepsy medications are being developed to minimize symptoms. One newer medication, Pexion, controls electrical activity in the brain, but has less chance of causing liver damage. Like phenobarbital and potassium bromide, Pexion can cause increased eating, drinking, and drowsiness. Try diazepam. Diazepam is used to control seizures, especially if your dog has multiple seizures without a rest in between them. If your doctor recommends diazepam, it may be given in the vein (IV) at the vet's office or you'll be instructed to give it rectally at home. Diazepam is an anti-epileptic drug that may also make your dog feel drowsy. Eventually, your dog will adjust to the sedative effect. If your German Shepherd reacts too strongly to one medication, you may need to put him on combination drug therapy (like diazepam and phenobarbital). Consider supplemental treatments. Your dog will need to be on medication to control his seizures. But, there are some safe treatments you can use in addition to the medications recommended by the vet. Only try supplemental treatments if your veterinarian recommends them. Supplemental treatments include: Acupuncture Diet such as a hypoallergenic diet to prevent food allergies from contributing to seizures. Essential fatty acids Nutraceuticals—various vitamin and nutritional supplements Homeopathy Various herbs or flower essences | Watch for warning signs before a seizure. Stay calm and give your dog space. Make the area safe. Contact the veterinarian after the seizure. Distinguish between seizures and epilepsy. Get your German Shepherd examined. Get a diagnosis of epilepsy. Follow the veterinarian's treatment plan. Give your dog phenobarbital. Treat with potassium bromide. Use gabapentin. Put your dog on Pexion. Try diazepam. Consider supplemental treatments. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Deal-With-an-Intruder-in-Your-Home | How to Deal With an Intruder in Your Home | Dealing with an intruder in your home can be a scary situation, but you can better handle it if you prepare for the event ahead of time. Designate a safe room that locks from the inside that you and your family can run to if you're unable to get out of the house when there's an intruder inside. You can also come up with a simple code word that you and your family can use to recognize that there's an emergency. For example, if you shout a simple phrase like, “Escape!”, your family will know that they need to get out of the house or get to the safe room. Try to call emergency services as quickly as possible and provide the dispatcher with as much information as possible. Stay in the safe room until the police arrive. | Avoid searching for an intruder. We've all seen movies where the home-owner grabs a bat and sneaks through the house searching for an intruder. It's best, though, to avoid confrontation with the intruder if at all possible. An intruder can react violently, so instead of searching for the intruder, you should first try to escape or hide. Come up with a simple code word that your family will recognize in an emergency. If you need to warn your family members about an invasion, it's a great idea to have a code worked out in advance. You can shout this simple word or phrase, such as “ESCAPE!”, to put them on the alert so that they can escape or run to a safe place. Designate a safe room. If you're not able to get out of the house, having a designated safe room (or even closet) can be a good idea. If at all possible, try to make your way to this safe room if you hear an intruder in your home. Make sure your safe room locks from the inside. Whether your safe room is your bedroom or a separate room in the house, you want to make sure that it has a solid door that locks from the inside and which can be quickly and easily barricaded. Consider installing a deadbolt on your bedroom door and/or the safe room for extra security. You should also make sure that you have an audible and silent panic alarm in your room that is monitored. The alarm system may startle or deter the intruder in the first place. Have your safe room stocked in advance. The most important item to have in your safe room is a working, charged phone so that you can contact the police. Ideally, this will not be a land-line, which could be cut, and would instead be a cell phone. Stock your safe room with things you can use as a weapon in case the intruder makes it in and you are forced to defend yourself, such as a bat. We'll have more to say in later steps about keeping more dangerous weapons such as knives and guns in your safe room. You may also want to consider having food, water, and first aid supplies in your safe room. Turn out the lights and remain as silent as possible. You don't want to alert the intruder to your presence if at all possible, so make sure that all lights in the room are turned off. Avoid calling out to the intruder. You may be tempted to yell “We've called the police!” in order to make the intruder panic and leave as quickly as possible. This isn't a good idea, though—it will give away your hiding place. If, however, the intruder tries to break into the room where you're hiding, then it may actually be a good idea to yell “We've called police—they're on their way!”. Use the plural “we” when you call out, even if you're alone. If the intruder thinks that there are more than one of you, he may panic and leave. Call emergency services as quickly as possible. Once you are secure, call for help immediately. Be sure to provide the dispatcher with as many details as possible. For example, “My name is Sally Smith, and I live at 123 River Road. I hear two intruders in my home. I'm hiding in the upstairs back bedroom, and I think they are still downstairs in the living room.” Try to keep the line with the dispatcher open so that they can listen in, provide you with updates on the progress of the police, and help keep you calm. Choose your position in the safe room strategically. If the intruder tries to break into the room where you are hiding, you're going to have to be prepared. Experts recommend that you stand in a corner that is on the opposite side of the door. Have your family members stand behind you. This way, if the intruder breaks into the room, you'll be able to see them before they see you, and you can quickly assess the situation to see if you need to fight (or shoot, if you are armed with a gun). Remain in your safe room until the police arrive. Even if you are sure that the intruder has left, it's best for you to stay put until the police arrive to secure your home. Continue to stay on the line with the emergency services dispatcher until you are told that the police have arrived and until the police announce themselves outside your door. Make sure your entire house is checked by the police. Especially if the suspect isn't caught by the police, you should ask them to thoroughly check your house and property. Consider staying with a friend or neighbor for the rest of the evening. Even if the police have assured you that your house is safe, you may feel more comfortable spending the night elsewhere. It's also a good idea to try to determine how the intruder got into your home: was a lock picked or a window broken? You may need to have repairs completed and/or locks changed before you'll feel safe sleeping in your home again. Set off your car alarm. While you probably sleep with your phone next to you, you may never have thought of bringing your car keys to bed. If you hear an intruder (either in the house or in the room with you), press the alarm button for your car. There's a good chance that the intruder will take off. Keep your distance from the intruder. If the intruder makes it into your room and you're already up, try to stay as far away as possible. Be on the lookout for ways to escape and do your best to remain calm and cooperative. You should avoid confrontation and violent reactions if at all possible. Choose a strategic stance. Place your hands at shoulder level, which the intruder may interpret as being submissive, but which places you in a good position for self-defense. Try to cooperate with the intruder. If you can't see an immediate route for escape, it is important to try to remain calm, and it's usually best to cooperate with the intruder. You may eventually be forced to defend yourself, but at least initially, you'll have a greater chance of surviving if you do what you're asked. Know how to answer the phone if you have an alarm system. If you haven't been able to call the police before an intruder makes it into your home, and if you have a home alarm system, you may receive a phone call from the company. If the intruder is in the room and wants or allows you to answer (they may know that if you don't pick up the police will be sent), you should have a distress code phrase prearranged with the security company. When you say the code words, they'll know that you're in trouble. For example, you could say “Mom, I'll call you in the morning.” If forced to disarm your security system, use your duress code on the keypad instead of your usual code: This has the added benefit that the police will be notified silently. Decide whether to use pepper-spray. You should use pepper-spray on an intruder only if you will be able to escape after doing so. The fumes can be overwhelming, and you don't want to be trapped in a room with them. Aim to incapacitate. While it's generally recommended that you try to escape or cooperate with an intruder, you may be forced to defend yourself. If you need to fight, you should fight to incapacitate the intruder so that you can escape. Aim for the groin, neck, face (eyes, nose, mouth) or knees. Where you should hit the attacker will depend on where the intruder is positioned near you. If he's not standing right next to you, for example, then try to kick his knees (hard and fast), rather than moving closer to strike him in the neck. Inflict damage with your hands. Hold your dominant hand open and flat, with your fingers straight and close together, and your thumb out. Then forcefully jab your hand into the intruder's neck. You may also be able to incapacitate the intruder by making a forceful upward thrust with the heel of your palm into his nose. Use your elbows. You may also be able to throw your elbow up into the intruder's neck, face, groin, or even stomach. Use your leverage, and throw your body weight into it. Use common objects as weapons. While you can attempt to gouge your attacker's eyes or nose with your hands, scan the room quickly to see if you can use something else as a weapon. For example, it's a good idea to keep a pen or your car keys near your bed. If you're woken before you can make it to your safe room or grab another more suitable weapon, you may still be able to inflict serious damage with these items. Run as soon as you are able. While you may be forced into a physical confrontation with the intruder, take the first opportunity to flee. Make as much noise as possible, in the hopes that you'll alert a neighbor or a passerby to your situation. Learn about the law in your state. You may be conflicted about whether or not it's a good idea to keep a gun in your home, although it is highly advised for your safety. There are of course safety concerns about keeping weapons in a house with children, but you may also be worried about what will happen to you if you shoot an intruder. Do not worry though, for if you do harm said intruder, it is completely within your rights to harm them if you live in a state with the "Stand Your Ground" law. In most cases, the law will protect you if you shoot an intruder. Shoot if you believe you or a family member are in danger. Even though you will generally be protected by the law for shooting an intruder, you generally must reasonably believe that you are in danger, and you must respond proportionately. This means that if the intruder is threatening you with a piece of fruit, for example, and you know it's a piece of fruit, you could face charges for stabbing or shooting the intruder. Learn if you're required to try to escape. In some states, you are required to at least attempt to retreat from the dangerous situation before you can legally respond with force. Learn if your state has a “Stand Your Ground” law. While the law or statute might be called something else, many states have laws that do not require you to retreat (or attempt to). Instead, you are legally permitted to claim self-defense and respond with force. Even in these states, you aren't allowed to attack without reasonable cause, so be careful. If you can, it helps to research what laws and statutes apply where you live. Learn if “Castle Doctrines” apply in your state. Generally speaking, if you live in such a state, you're legally permitted to use lethal force upon anyone who unlawfully enters your home, without needing to first determine whether and how much of a threat they pose to you. Again, it's always a good idea to learn what laws apply in your state, and how the specifics vary. Keep your guns in a safe, secure place. If you do feel more secure with guns in your home, it's important that they are securely locked (ideally in a gun safe) and not just hidden. This is all the more important if you have children: even if you think that you've hidden your guns and ammunition where they'll never find it, it is nearly guaranteed that they will discover your hiding places. Store your guns and ammunition separately. It's generally recommended that you keep the guns in your home unloaded and that you store your guns and ammunition separately. You should of course be able to access both quickly in an emergency. Consider storing them in your safe room, but be sure to keep the keys to both where children cannot find them. Consider using a gun lock. You can purchase gun-locking devices which will render a gun inoperable when not in use. Make sure that you know how to disable the lock quickly, but know that using one can be a good idea if you have children or teenagers in the home. Identify that there is an intruder before shooting. In order to avoid tragic accidents, it's important that you try to keep a cool head when you think there is an intruder in the home. Account for your spouse, partner, and/or other family members before shooting blindly. While the police should identify themselves if they enter your home, try to take a quick moment before shooting if someone breaks into your room. It could be an intruder, in which case it's important that you protect yourself, but you don't want to accidentally shoot a police officer. | Avoid searching for an intruder. Come up with a simple code word that your family will recognize in an emergency. Designate a safe room. Make sure your safe room locks from the inside. Have your safe room stocked in advance. Turn out the lights and remain as silent as possible. Avoid calling out to the intruder. Call emergency services as quickly as possible. Choose your position in the safe room strategically. Remain in your safe room until the police arrive. Make sure your entire house is checked by the police. Consider staying with a friend or neighbor for the rest of the evening. Set off your car alarm. Keep your distance from the intruder. Choose a strategic stance. Try to cooperate with the intruder. Know how to answer the phone if you have an alarm system. Decide whether to use pepper-spray. Aim to incapacitate. Inflict damage with your hands. Use your elbows. Use common objects as weapons. Run as soon as you are able. Learn about the law in your state. Shoot if you believe you or a family member are in danger. Learn if you're required to try to escape. Learn if your state has a “Stand Your Ground” law. Learn if “Castle Doctrines” apply in your state. Keep your guns in a safe, secure place. Store your guns and ammunition separately. Consider using a gun lock. Identify that there is an intruder before shooting. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Rattlesnake-Proof-a-Backyard | How to Rattlesnake Proof a Backyard | To keep rattlesnakes out of your yard, clean up any debris, like piles of sticks and rocks or other items, where rattlesnakes can hide. Then, mow the grass and pull weeds to remove any places where they could create a nest. If you have rodents like mice or rabbits living in your yard, remove them to starve the rattlesnakes. If the rattlesnakes continue to invade your yard, call pest control to have them professionally removed, and put up a rattlesnake-proof fence around your yard to keep them out. | Seal any gaps under your house to keep rattlers from sneaking in. Take a walk around your house and look for any cracks or gaps in the wood or concrete. These small openings make great habitats for rattlesnakes. To prevent rattlers from living in the bottom of your house, fill any gaps larger than ⁄ 4 inch (0.64 cm) with a filler like expanding foam. You can purchase expanding foam at any hardware store. Clean up your yard so that rattlers won’t have a place to live. If you make your property inhospitable to passing rattlesnakes, they won't stick around and make a home in your yard. Do this by removing any possible hiding spots for snakes and by tearing down any places where they could build a nest. This includes: Piles of boards or debris. Mounds of branches, sticks, and leaves. Piles of rocks. Old and unattended vehicles or boats. Keep rodents out of your yard by removing their food sources. Snakes are carnivorous and primarily eat small mammals like rats and mice. If your yard is rodent-free, snakes won't linger looking for a meal. The best plan is to remove the food that mice and rats eat. By removing rodents' food, you'll keep both rodents and snakes away from your yard. You can: Pick up outdoor pet food every night. Securely close trash-can lids so rodents won't eat your garbage. Keep your compost in a sealed container, not lying on the ground. Mow weeds and grasses in your backyard to destroy snake habitat. Snakes will look for cover when deciding where to live and hunt. If your yard is full of high grass or large patches of weeds, it will attract snakes. To keep snakes away, mow your lawn regularly and keep weeds trimmed. Cut any weed clumps that grow higher than about 5 inches (13 cm). If your property contains a large field, mow the field as well. Long grass is an inviting habitat for rattlers, and if there's high grass anywhere near your yard, rattlers may come crawling in. Call animal control if a snake stays in your yard. If a rattlesnake does make its way into your backyard, do not panic. Send any kids and pets indoors, and make sure the rattler doesn't approach the house. If it lingers for longer than 30 minutes or has built a den in your yard, call animal control to remove the snake. If you have made your yard as unfavorable to a snake as possible, the snake should leave if given the chance. Purchase snake-proof fencing at a local hardware store. If you live in an area that gets rattlesnakes, you'll be able to find many stores that stock snake-proof fencing. Check local hardware stores, garden supply shops, and home-supply stores. Snake-proof fencing should be solid or have mesh gaps no larger than ⁄ 4 inch (0.64 cm) and should be at least 36 inches (91 cm) tall. Snake-proof fencing isn't cheap. A single 50 ft (15 m) roll can cost about $60 USD. However, this cost is worth it to assure your personal safety and peace of mind. Choose an area of your backyard you’d like to cordon off from snakes. Due to the cost of the snake-proof fencing, you may not be able to fence off an entire large backyard. Instead, choose a specific zone you'd like to keep snake-free. This could be a children's play area, the patch of grass where you walk your pet, or the section of yard nearest your back door. Dig a trench 6 in (15 cm) deep so snakes can’t crawl under the fence. To prevent gaps between the bottom of the fence and the ground, use a shovel to dig a narrow trench 6 inches (15 cm) deep around the perimeter where you plan to install the snake-proof fencing. When you're digging, make sure that the trench is uniformly deep along its entire length. Install the fencing in the trench you've dug. Once you've dug your trench, lay out the fencing in the trench. Unroll the entire length of the snake-proof fencing material and install it all at the same time. Make sure that the bottom of the fencing is touching the bottom of the trench. If there are any gaps between the bottom of your installed fence and the ground, rattlers will crawl right in. Bury the bottom of the fence once it's in position. Use the shovel again to loosely bury the bottom of the fence. Once the fence is covered in dirt, smooth out the dirt and make sure the fence is standing securely. Slant the fence outwards at a 30° angle so snakes can't climb it. Once the bottom of the snake-proof fence is buried, push the fence outward (away from your backyard) until it's leaning at a 30° angle. Then use your foot to stamp down the soil surrounding the fence. Rattlesnakes won't be able to shimmy up the fence if it's leaning outward at this angle. Clear any tree branches or vegetation near the fence. Rattlesnakes will be able to climb up the branches and over the fence. To prevent this, remove any small trees, overhanging tree branches, or large vegetation stalks within 2 feet (0.61 m) of the fence. If you need to install support stakes to hold up the fence, place them on the inside of the fence. If they're on the outside, rattlers can crawl up them. Maintain the fence as needed to keep snakes out. Over time, sections of your snake-proof fence may collapse or be worn down by the weather. Take a monthly walk around the perimeter to make sure that the fence is still intact. If you spot any breaks in the fence, remove the damaged section and install a new section of fencing. If there are only 1 or 2 lightly damaged sections of fence, you can patch them up with slick packaging tape. You can also maintain the fence by cutting down any new growth on encroaching tree branches or bushes. | Seal any gaps under your house to keep rattlers from sneaking in. Clean up your yard so that rattlers won’t have a place to live. Keep rodents out of your yard by removing their food sources. Mow weeds and grasses in your backyard to destroy snake habitat. Call animal control if a snake stays in your yard. Purchase snake-proof fencing at a local hardware store. Choose an area of your backyard you’d like to cordon off from snakes. Dig a trench 6 in (15 cm) deep so snakes can’t crawl under the fence. Install the fencing in the trench you've dug. Bury the bottom of the fence once it's in position. Slant the fence outwards at a 30° angle so snakes can't climb it. Clear any tree branches or vegetation near the fence. Maintain the fence as needed to keep snakes out. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Avoid-the-Temptation-to-Eat-Unhealthy-Foods | How to Avoid the Temptation to Eat Unhealthy Foods | It's common to feel tempted to eat unhealthy foods, but if you get a craving, try to opt for a healthier choice instead. For example, if you want candy, you can eat trail mix with dried fruit. Since it's easier to give in to temptation when you have unhealthy food at home, clean out your cupboards, leaving only healthy ingredients. It may be hard to get rid of all the unhealthy foods in your home, so you can also move them out of sight, such as in an opaque container in the back of a closed cupboard. That way, they won't tempt you as much. | Be mindful. When you experience a food craving, stop for a moment and observe your own thinking and responses. Research shows that taking a moment to stop and recognize your mental and physical state can cause cravings to dissipate. Stop and ask yourself: why do I want this? What exactly am I feeling right now? This may not always work. But, at least in some cases, pausing to scrutinize your thought patterns can lead to healthier decisions. It can also help to take a moment to inventory, mentally, what you've already eaten that day. Often, this can trigger your brain to feel satisfied, rather than longing for more. Visualize rewards. Other psychological research shows that visualizing desired behavior can help you follow through on it. Pause for a moment and try to imagine, as vividly as you can, the rewards of making the right decision. For example, imagine yourself ten pounds lighter, and what you will look and feel like if you consistently eat a healthy diet. Visualize consequences. Similarly, some have suggested the visualizing the negative consequences of bad decisions can help people make good ones. For example, imagine finding out you have diabetes, or imagine yourself 20 pounds heavier. This may seem severe. After all, one bowl of ice cream isn't going to make you diabetic. But, exaggerating the harm of the unhealthy choice can make it less appealing. Also keep in mind that this is not about shaming yourself. Neither your current nor your appearance is the focus here. Rather, the idea is make the consequences of your decisions vivid. The goal is to help you make good choices, not feel bad about yourself. Postpone, don't deny your cravings. When you are craving something unhealthy, don't tell yourself "no." Instead, tell yourself, "maybe I'll eat it later." Psychological research shows that often, deciding to eat something later on is enough to stop the craving. Chances are, in a short time, the craving will have passed. By saying "later" instead of "no," you trick your brain into letting you make the right decision. You can say "no" when you aren't experiencing the craving anymore. Replace your cravings. If you are genuinely hungry, it's okay to eat! But, instead of eating cookies or potato chips, make yourself a healthy snack. This can be doubly effective if you can identify your cravings. A particular food craving might point to something lacking in your diet. For example: A chocolate craving might suggest you need magnesium. Instead, try snacking on natural fruits, nuts, leafy greens, or take a vitamin/mineral supplement. A craving for sugar or simple carbohydrates (like white bread) might suggest your body needs protein or complex carbohydrates for energy. Carbohydrates break down into sugars. Since sugar metabolizes quickly, it is not a good source of long term energy. The best sources of energy are protein and complex carbohydrates, which break down more slowly. Good examples include brown or wild long-grain rice. Pasta or bread made from whole wheat flour are also good options. For protein, nuts, cheese, low-fat milk, beans, or lean meats are good choices. A craving for fried foods might suggest a need for good fats, like Omega 3 fatty acids. Try eating more fish, or check your grocery store for milk, cheese, or eggs containing these oils. You can also take a fish oil supplement if you don't like to eat actual fish, or incorporate flaxseed in your diet by mixing it into muffins or oatmeal. Walnuts and fresh basil are also sources of omega-3 fatty acids. A salt craving might mean you are lacking important electrolytes like chloride, calcium, sodium, and potassium. You might also need hydration, or vitamin B. When you desire something salty, try a glass of water. If this doesn't work, a banana and some yogurt might do the trick. If you have these cravings frequently, you may wish to try taking a vitamin B supplement or multivitamin. Choose healthy snacks. When you do have a snack, try to choose healthy options that satisfy the same snacking desires. For example: For a salty crunch, try popcorn instead of potato chips. Fresh, air-popped corn is best, but if you opt for microwave popcorn, pick a low fat variety. If you are craving some candy, try some trail mix with dried fruit and maybe a few chocolate chips. This can be a good source of complex carbohydrates and healthy fats. Or, have a little piece of dark chocolate. It's lower in sugar, and high in healthy antioxidants. If you want French fries or onion rings, try some lightly salted edamame, which is high in fiber and protein. Or, fix yourself a baked potato for few calories and more fiber. If you're dying for some ice cream, try a sorbet or frozen yogurt. These are still high in sugar, so don't go crazy. But, these options have a lot less fat--often none at all. Cook your own meals. Restaurant meals, and especially fast food , are full of salt and other unhealthy ingredients. Making your own healthy and tasty meals will help you resist the cravings for restaurant food. Pack a lunch when you go to work. If you have your own healthy food, you'll be less tempted to grab a quick bite at a drive-thru, or to have the pizza your co-workers ordered. Distract yourself. When you feel a food craving coming on, try to occupy yourself with something else. Ideally, you could make this a healthy activity, like going for a walk around the block. But, you could also call a friend or work on a project around the house. Food cravings are often triggered by boredom or fatigue. Keeping yourself occupied will help ward off either of these. Get plenty of sleep. Sleep deprivation causes your body to need (and crave) more calories to keep going. It has been linked to cravings for junk food. Getting a good night's sleep should reduce unhealthy food cravings. Likewise, sleep deprivation can weaken your willpower, making it harder to resist cravings. Break the routine. Psychological research shows that a lot of snacking occurs in an absent-minded way, as part of a routine. Breaking these routines can help reduce cravings. If you often eat a snack when you watch TV, you may start to want a snack every time you watch TV. Try to be aware of these routines and break them. You can do this by changing the physical space. For example, you might move your TV to another room for a while. This change will weaken the association between TV and snacking. You can move it back once you've broken the habit. Studies also show that eating snacks with your non-dominant hand will mean you eat less and will also weaken these habits. So, if you give in and snack, give it a try. Celebrate in moderation. Tasty but unhealthy foods are part of many of our celebrations. Whether it's birthday cake or pumpkin pie around the holidays, sweet and fatty foods go with good times. Try to moderate how much of these things you eat. Not many people are likely to turn down a slice of cake on their birthday. Go ahead and have a piece! But keep in mind, it doesn't have to be a huge piece. You can take part in the celebration (and often satisfy your craving) with just a small piece of cake. Clean out your cupboards. One surefire way to make sure you don't eat unhealthy foods at home is to not have them in your home. If you're really serious about keeping these foods out of your diet, get rid of them! You can't eat what isn't there. If you eat your meals at home and only have healthy ingredients to prepare them with, that's all you'll eat. Keep unhealthy foods out of sight. As the old saying goes, "out of sight, out of mind." If you aren't willing to toss out everything unhealthy, move it so that it is less visible and accessible. Studies show that people consume candy in transparent containers like glass jars more quickly than candy in opaque containers. If you keep potato chips in the house, keep them in a closed cupboard. Keep healthy foods accessible. The flip side of hiding your junk food is making sure that healthier options are more easily seen and accessed. This will increase the likelihood of eating them instead. For example, keep fruit out on the counter. If there are apples in plain sight, but the potato chips are hidden away, this will make you more likely to go for the fruit. Take some time to do food prep on the weekends by washing and cutting fresh vegetables that will then be available to quickly snack on throughout the week. For example, carrots, celery, zucchini, and broccoli. Try washing and freezing some grapes that have been removed from the vine. Frozen grapes make a great healthy snack when you are craving something sweet. Don't go shopping on an empty stomach. Research shows that when you go to the grocery store hungry, you are more likely to make impulse buys. This often means unhealthy food. Try eating a small, healthy snack just before a trip to the grocery store. This will reduce the temptation to make junk food impulse purchases. Once again, if you don't buy unhealthy food, you can't eat it. Go to the store with a full belly and make good choices. Planning what you are going to eat for the week and shopping accordingly is also a great way to make healthy eating easy. | Be mindful. Visualize rewards. Visualize consequences. Postpone, don't deny your cravings. Replace your cravings. Choose healthy snacks. Cook your own meals. Distract yourself. Get plenty of sleep. Break the routine. Celebrate in moderation. Clean out your cupboards. Keep unhealthy foods out of sight. Keep healthy foods accessible. Don't go shopping on an empty stomach. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Use-Tracing-Paper | How to Use Tracing Paper | To use tracing paper, start by placing it over a drawing or image you want to trace and taping it down so it stays in place. Then, use a graphite pencil to trace the original drawing onto the tracing paper. When you're finished, remove the tracing paper and tape it face down on your new medium. Next, firmly rub the back of the traced drawing using a pencil, marker, or another hard object. Finally, remove the tracing paper to reveal the transferred drawing on your new medium. | Place a sheet of tracing paper over a drawing or image you want to trace. The simpler the image you use, the easier it will be to trace. Make sure the entire image is covered with the tracing paper. Use masking tape to hold the tracing paper in place. Fold the edges of the tracing paper over the edges of the paper the original drawing or image is on and tape them down. If the tracing paper is smaller than the piece of paper you're tracing over, tape the corners of the tracing paper to the front of the other paper. Trace the original image onto the tracing paper with a graphite pencil. Don't use a pen, marker, or colored pencil or you won't be able to transfer your traced image onto another sheet of paper. Carefully follow the lines of the original image with the pencil. Don't worry about tracing the shading in the original image. Just focus on getting all the lines from the original image onto the tracing paper. If the tracing paper slips out of place as you're working, line it back up using the lines you've already traced. Erase mistakes with an eraser, but be gentle so you don't tear the tracing paper. Remove the tracing paper. Peel off the tape that was holding the tracing paper in place, and set the sheet of tracing paper next to the original image. Look at the two side by side. They should look identical (except for any shading and coloring). If you notice you missed a spot, place the tracing paper back over the original drawing and trace over the line you missed. Find something you want to transfer your traced drawing onto. Use a sheet of sketchbook paper, watercolor paper, a canvas, or any other medium that pencil will show up on. Make sure you're transferring the traced drawing onto something that's light-colored so the pencil shows up. Tape your traced drawing face down on your new medium. Use masking tape or office tape. Position the tracing paper so the traced drawing is lined up with the spot you want it to transfer onto. The side of the tracing paper you drew on should be facing down. Rub the back of the traced drawing to transfer it onto the medium below. Use your pencil, the end of a marker, or another hard object. Apply pressure as you rub over all of the lines in your traced drawing. The pressure will cause the graphite on the other side of the tracing paper to transfer onto the medium below it. Remove the tracing paper. Peel off the tape and set the tracing paper aside. There should be a faded copy of the drawing you traced on the new medium. If there are spots that didn't transfer, fill them in with the pencil. Finish your transferred drawing. Go over the lines with the pencil so they're more defined. When you're finished, you can leave it as is or enhance your drawing with ink, colored pencil, or paint. | Place a sheet of tracing paper over a drawing or image you want to trace. Use masking tape to hold the tracing paper in place. Trace the original image onto the tracing paper with a graphite pencil. Remove the tracing paper. Find something you want to transfer your traced drawing onto. Tape your traced drawing face down on your new medium. Rub the back of the traced drawing to transfer it onto the medium below. Remove the tracing paper. Finish your transferred drawing. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Care-for-Sunflowers | How to Care for Sunflowers | To care for sunflowers, plant them 1 inch deep, after the last frost, and in loamy soil with good drainage and full sun. Keep the soil moist as they are establishing themselves, but let the soil dry out between waterings once they're mature. If you want to harvest the flowers to keep in a vase, cut them when the petals are perpendicular to the central disk so they will last longer. Alternatively, for seed saving, cut them when the petals are leaning outward. | Choose a variety. Sunflowers range from eighteen foot (5.5 m) stalks to a knee-high cluster of pom-poms. Besides the size and appearance, there are a few other considerations: The classic, yellow, single-stem sunflower usually grow quickly and easily. Sunrich and Pro Cut are good beginner options. Branching varieties produce many flowers per seed, but most grow more slowly. If you plan to cut the flowers, get a pollen-free or low-pollen variety such as Cherry Rose to avoid a sticky mess. Larger varieties such as Mammoth Gray Stripe and Humongous tend to produce tastier seeds, and can provide support for climbing plants. (Some smaller varieties produce birdseed-quality seeds.) Decide when to plant the sunflowers. You can plant your sunflowers starting in late spring, once the last frost is passed. However, many sunflowers are daylight-sensitive, and may grow leggy and delay flowering if planted at the wrong time. There are three types of varieties: Short-day: These need long nights to trigger flowering. Plant them toward the end of summer (or start them indoors in mid-spring). Long-day: These bloom during the middle of summer. Day-neutral varieties can be planted any time during the growing season. Plan ahead based on the expected flowering time. Most single-stem sunflowers bloom 60 days after planting from seed, while branched sunflowers bloom after 90 days. Choose a spot with well-drained soil and full sun. Sunflowers grow best in loamy soil with good drainage and neutral pH. More importantly, make sure the area gets at least six hours of full sun a day, and preferably eight or more. If the soil is poor, mix in 3 or 4 inches (7.5–10cm) of compost into the topsoil. Plant the seeds. Farmers usually plant large, single-stem sunflowers at least an inch (2.5 cm) deep. In home gardens with good quality soil (not too dry or sandy), you can likely plant at ½ inch (1.25 cm) depth instead. Plant extra seeds if you have the space. You may thin them later, or lose some seeds to pests. Space the seeds apart depending on desired flower size. The further apart you space the seeds, the larger their flowers will grow: Plant the seeds 6 inches (15 cm) apart for smaller, bouquet-sized flowers, or 9" (23) cm + for larger blooms. If your sunflower's max height is above 5 ft (1.5m), plant them at least 1 ft (0.3m) apart. Giant varieties may need 2 ft (0.6m) of space. Most branching varieties need 18" (46 cm) of space. Water young sunflowers daily. Sunflower seedlings need plenty of water while they're establishing themselves. Keep the soil moist, but not soaked, until the seedlings emerge. This usually happens within 5–10 days of planting, but may take longer in cold weather. Once the seedling emerges, water about 3–4 inches (7.5–10cm) from the plant to encourage root growth. Fertilize the sunflowers if the soil is poor. Sunflowers do not need fertilizer, and overdoing the nitrogen can create a leggy plant with delayed flowering. If your soil is poor, add compost or slow-release fertilizer to the surface of the soil. This should help strengthen the plant without overdosing it. Protect sunflowers from pests. Protecting your plants against slugs and snails is especially important. You can surround your plants with slug repellent from a garden store, or make your own "beer traps" for slugs to fall in. Look out for yellow leaves. Downy mildew can be a major problem in clay or waterlogged soils. Check regularly for this fungus, which causes shrunken yellow leaves in addition to its namesake down. If you see these symptoms, reduce water use to keep soil dry, and apply fungicide immediately. Infected plants rarely produce flowers, so you may want to simply remove them to avoid spreading the disease. If the leaves look normal except for a striking yellow bleached color, this is a bacterial infection instead. Keeping soil dry will help here as well, and the plant will usually be fine. If the leaf looks yellow but still has green veins, the problem is most likely a mineral deficiency. It can be tricky to pinpoint the exact problem, but diluted fertilizer may work. Be aware that it's normal for sunflowers to lose their first set of leaves once they begin growing in earnest. Don't worry if the bottom leaves yellow and drop, but the rest of the leaves are fine. Reduce watering for mature sunflowers. Once they've developed a deep taproot, sunflowers are fairly drought-resistant. They'll still thrive on regular, deep watering, especially while buds and flowers are developing, but allow the soil to dry out between watering sessions. Over-watering is more likely to harm them than under-watering. Try not to get the blooms wet, as this can damage them. Stake the sunflowers in windy weather. Wind can severely damage most multi-branched varieties, as well as any sunflower over 3 ft (0.9m) tall. Tie them to a sturdy support using cloth or other soft material. You may need to put up a wind barrier for extra tall sunflowers. Cut decorative flowers when they are ¼ open. At this stage, the flower petals stick up perpendicular to the central disc. Cut them at this point for maximum vase life (usually five days, much longer with some varieties): Cut flowers in the early morning or early evening. Use a clean knife or shears. Strip off any leaves that would be below the water line. Place in water immediately. Cut flowers for drying. In this case, it's best to wait until the flower is about half open, and the petals are leaning outward. Once cut, there are many ways to preserve them. The simplest is to tie the stems with twine and hang them upside down in a warm room with good ventilation. Protect seeds from birds and squirrels. If you'd like to harvest the seeds yourself, you'll have to battle the neighborhood animals. Once the flowers start to droop and lose their petals, cover the head with cheesecloth or a paper bag. Most sunflowers will produce many more seeds if you attract bees to your garden to pollinate them. Harvest the seed head. You may cut off the seed head once the disk it rests on starts to turn color from green to yellow. Store in a dry, cool location until the disk turns dark brown. The seeds are now ready to eat, raw or roasted. Store seeds in a cloth bag to allow air to circulate. This helps prevent mold. | Choose a variety. Decide when to plant the sunflowers. Choose a spot with well-drained soil and full sun. Plant the seeds. Space the seeds apart depending on desired flower size. Water young sunflowers daily. Fertilize the sunflowers if the soil is poor. Protect sunflowers from pests. Look out for yellow leaves. Reduce watering for mature sunflowers. Stake the sunflowers in windy weather. Cut decorative flowers when they are ¼ open. Cut flowers for drying. Protect seeds from birds and squirrels. Harvest the seed head. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Tape-Up-Stubborn-German-Shepherd-Puppy-Ears | How to Tape Up Stubborn German Shepherd Puppy Ears | Before you tape up your German shepherd puppy's ears, keep in mind that ears that are thin or widely spaced apart might never stand upright. Also, try to wait until your puppy is at least 6 months old since sometimes it just takes a while for a German shepherd's ears to stand upright on their own. To tape your puppy's ears, attach a large foam hair roller to the inside of them with surgical tape, making sure you're not blocking the ear canal. Then, place a popsicle stick behind the top of each ear and secure it with tape. | Look at the structure of your puppy's ears. Simply put, not all German shepherd puppy ears are created equal. For example, thin ears that do not have much cartilage may not be stiff enough to stand upright on their own. On the contrary, thicker ears probably have enough cartilage and muscle development to stand up more easily. Ears that are widely spaced on your puppy's head may have a harder time standing upright. Smaller ears are more likely to stand up naturally than larger ears. Decide if upright ears on your puppy is important to you. Although it is the breed standard for German shepherds to have upright ears, it is not necessary that your own puppy meet the breed standard. It is your personal preference whether your puppy should meet this standard. Due to their structure, upright ears are less prone to ear infections than floppy ears. Upright ears also do not have be cleaned as frequently as floppy ears (about once a month versus once a week). Floppy ears tend to trap more moisture than upright ears, are therefore more prone to ear infections. Be aware that not all German shepherd puppy ears will stand up. This is known as “soft ear” and could lead to ear problems. Consult with your veterinarian or a German shepherd breeder if you are undecided on whether to tape your puppy's ears. Wait to see if puppy's ears stand up naturally. Even with the option of taping, it is preferable for German shepherd puppy ears to stand up without assistance. You cannot wait indefinitely for your puppy's ears to stand up, though—if they have not stood completely up by the time he is 7 to 8 months old, they are unlikely to stand up at all. Be mindful that it is not possible to have 100% certainty that your puppy's ears will stand up naturally on their own. Some puppy's ears will be upright on their own in as few as 8 weeks. For other puppies, it might take as long as 6 months before their eyes stand upright. Also, one ear may stand upright before the other. Obtain the necessary supplies. Fortunately, you will not need many supplies to tape your German shepherd puppy's ears. In fact, you may already have some of the supplies at home. One of the supplies you will need is women's large foam rollers. Rollers are available at your local pharmacy. The large size of rollers is usually pink, but do not rely on color to choose the correct size. Alternatively, you could use small pipe insulation tubing, which is available at home improvement stores. If you choose to use tubing, it should be about the same diameter as a large foam roller. You will also need tape. The type of tape to use is very important! The best type of tape to use is white surgical tape (two-inch wide 3M Micropore tape), which is available at your local pharmacy. Masking tape is another option, but is less preferred than surgical tape. Do not use duct tape or electrical tape. These types of tape are too adhesive and could damage your puppy's ears. You will also need glue (Skin Bond adhesive is recommended) and one or two unsharpened # 2 pencils. False eyelash glue is not recommended. A popsicle stick will be needed to serve as a 'bridge' between your puppy's ears after you have taped them. Prepare the foam roller for placement in your puppy's ear. Remove the plastic rod from the middle of the roller. Next, insert the unsharpened pencil about 1 inch into the middle opening of the roller—this will help you stabilize the roller when you position it inside the ear. You will then apply the glue about three-fourths of the way around the circumference of the roller. Apply enough glue to coat the roller, but not so much that the glue oozes or drips from the roller. If you apply too much, the glue could run into your puppy's ear canal and potentially cause irritation. The glue could also drip onto your hands, which would make it difficult for you to easily maneuver your hands. If you are uncomfortable with the glue, you could cover the roller with tape, sticky side out. If you prefer to use the tape, you will not need to put the pencil in the roller. Position the foam roller inside your puppy's ear. Proper positioning of the foam roller is important so that you do not block your puppy's ear canal and impair his ability to hear. Place the roller inside the ear near the bottom half of the ear flap. Make sure there is two fingers' worth of space between the bottom of the roller and your puppy's head. It may help to gently press the roller into the inside of the ear so that the glue or tape on the roller touches the ear. Tape the ear around the roller. Holding the pencil end of the roller, wrap the ear around the roller. While continuing to hold the pencil end, start taping at the top of the ear in a circular motion and work your way down. Use firm pressure when taping the ear, but be careful not to tape the ear too tightly—not only would this be uncomfortable for your puppy, but it may also cut off circulation to the ear. Remove the pencil with a gentle upward motion before you finish taping the ear. Even if one ear is already standing upright, it is ideal to tape up both ears. Stabilize both ears. Place the popsicle stick behind the top of both ears and secure it to each ear with additional tape or glue. The popsicle stick will act like a bridge between the ears to keep them upright and stabilized while they are taped. Distract your puppy. Your puppy will probably want to start messing with his ears as soon as you finish taping them up. Distracting him for about five minutes will give the glue and/or tape time to set. You can distract him with food or a few minutes of playtime. Puppies naturally have a lot of energy, so keeping your puppy still while the glue and/or tape sets will probably not work very well. Distracting him with activities that he enjoys will divert his attention from his ears, at least temporarily. Keep the ears taped up for 10 to 14 days. Your puppy's ears may need up to two weeks to remain stabilized in the upright position. During this time, your puppy will probably manage to remove the popsicle stick and might even start unraveling the tape from his ears. This is most likely to happen in the first 24 hours after you have taped his ears. If you notice the tape unraveling, or that the popsicle stick has come off, make the fixes where needed. Cover up his ears with a plastic bag if it is raining outside when it's time for your puppy to go out. Consider taking the tape off after seven days to see if the ears will stand up on their own. If not, re-tape the ears. Remove the tape and popsicle stick. It is recommended to use an adhesive remover to remove the tape from your puppy's ears. This product can be found at your local home improvement store. Following the instructions on the adhesive remover bottle, gently and slowly remove the tape and foam roller from your puppy's ears. Do not forcefully rip off the tape or rip out the roller. Not only will this be painful for your puppy, but you may also end up damaging the inside of your puppy's ears. Do not be worried if your puppy's ears do not stand exactly upright when you remove the tape and foam roller. His ears may be a little weak after being taped, but will strengthen over time. Do not tape up his ears too soon. It is recommended to wait until after your German shepherd puppy's adult teeth have started to come in (around 3 to 5 months) to tape up his ears. You may even want to wait until after he has finished teething (around 7 months) before taping up his ears. Taping his ears too soon may end up damaging his ears to the point where they will not stand up on their own. Because calcium is being diverted from your puppy's ears to his teeth during teething, his ears will probably switch back and forth between standing up and flopping down. Talk with your veterinarian if you are unsure of when to start considering taping up his ears. Provide your puppy with extra calcium. During the teething process, your puppy's ears will probably lose calcium. Without enough calcium, your puppy's ears may have a harder time standing upright. Giving him a little extra calcium in his diet (1 tablespoon of cottage cheese or yogurt per meal) will help to replace this calcium deficiency. Even though it may tempting to do so, do not give your puppy calcium supplements. The extra calcium could deposit in his bones and lead to long-term orthopedic problems, such as bone spurs and arthritis, later in life. Consult with your veterinarian on ways to provide your puppy with extra calcium. Keep your puppy in good health. Your puppy's overall health plays an important role in the health and strength of his ears. One thing you should do is keep your puppy up to date on his vaccinations and deworming schedule. You should also feed him a well-balanced, high-quality puppy food. Encourage your puppy to use his ear muscles. If you notice that his ears stand up one day and then flop down the next, encourage your puppy to use his ears more and more. The more he perks his ears up, the stronger his ear muscles will become and the more likely his ears will stand upright. Try making interesting noises and sounds (e.g., honking a car horn, clapping your hands, ringing a bell) to get your puppy to perk his ears up. Giving him chew toys and bones to chew on will also be helpful. The chewing motion strengthens the muscles at the base of the ear. Protect your German shepherd puppy's ears from damage. Damage to your puppy's ears can prevent them from being able to stand upright. Contrary to popular belief, massaging the base of your puppy's ears will not encourage them to stand upright. In fact, massaging, rubbing, and playing with your puppy's ears can actually damage them. If your puppy sleeps in a crate, try to keep him from sleeping with his head against the side of the crate. This sleeping position can damage his ears. Puppies can pull and tug on each other's ears. If you have other puppies, keep an eye on them to make sure they leave each other's ears alone as much as possible. Clean your puppy's ears regularly. Ear cleaners are available at your local pet store. Talk with your veterinarian for advice on how to clean your puppy's ears. | Look at the structure of your puppy's ears. Decide if upright ears on your puppy is important to you. Wait to see if puppy's ears stand up naturally. Obtain the necessary supplies. Prepare the foam roller for placement in your puppy's ear. Position the foam roller inside your puppy's ear. Tape the ear around the roller. Stabilize both ears. Distract your puppy. Keep the ears taped up for 10 to 14 days. Remove the tape and popsicle stick. Do not tape up his ears too soon. Provide your puppy with extra calcium. Keep your puppy in good health. Encourage your puppy to use his ear muscles. Protect your German shepherd puppy's ears from damage. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Transition-from-Puppy-to-Adult-Dog-Food | How to Transition from Puppy to Adult Dog Food | To transition your dog from puppy food to adult food, start adding a bit of the new food to each meal for at least a week, gradually increasing the amount of new food and decreasing the old food. Do not switch to the new food all at once because this can make your dog very sick. If you notice your dog having digestive problems, like vomiting or diarrhea, slow down the transition process. Mix less of the new food and wait until your dog can digest the mixture before continuing the transition. | Consider the food transition when your dog is approximately one year old. As a general rule, most dogs should transition off of puppy food and on to adult food when they are around one year old. This is when most dogs reach their full adult size and no longer need a huge amount of calories to support growth. Changing your dog's food when it is one year old is a general rule. Depending on other factors, your dog may need to switch a few months earlier or a few months later than its first birthday. The most common reason you might need to switch your puppy to dog food early is if he has gained too much weight or has been neutered. Switch sooner if your dog is spayed or neutered or becomes overweight. Keep a puppy on puppy food until they are 12 months old, or change earlier if they are neutered or if they become overweight. Depending on how old your dog is when it gets fixed, you may want to feed it puppy food for a few months afterword. Take your dog's breed into consideration. Different dog breeds should be switched off of puppy food at different times. This is due to the differences in periods of growth for different types of dogs and when they reach their full grown size. In general, large dog breeds should be kept on puppy food for longer than small or toy breed dogs because they take longer to reach their full size. In general, large breed dogs, such as great Danes, should be kept on puppy food until they are 13 to 14 months old. In general, small breed dogs, such as Chihuahuas, should be kept on puppy food until they are 7 to 9 months old. Assess your dog's weight. A puppy that is overweight may need to be switched off of puppy food sooner than expected. A puppy that is underweight may need to stay on puppy food until it gets its weight up. Discuss your dog's weight with its veterinarian and come up with a plan to get the dog to an ideal weight. This could be done by switching the dog to adult food, giving it fewer meals each day, or simply lowering the amount of puppy food it gets. Most often, your puppy will be weighed when it goes to the veterinarian. Your vet will tell you its weight and whether that weight is within a normal range. Discuss an appropriate new food with your veterinarian. Once you have decided to switch your dog's food from puppy food to adult food you will need to find an adult food that is good for your dog. The easiest way to pick an adult food is to discuss options with your veterinarian. There are so many choices out there that it can be overwhelming without a little guidance. When discussing adult food options with your veterinarian, be honest about your financial situation and what you can afford to pay for dog food. Your veterinarian may then be able to give you a few options that will be within your budget. Make the transition to adult food gradually. If you try to switch your dog's food too abruptly it can get very sick due to a lack of bacteria that can digest a different food. Its system is simply not prepared to digest a new food. With this in mind, you will need to switch your dog's food gradually, adding a little bit more of the new food and a little bit less of the old food for every meal over the course of a week. This means that for the first couple of days transitioning food you mix a quarter new food with three quarters old food. On the third and fourth days you mix half new food and half old food. On the fifth and sixth days you mix together three quarters new food with one quarter old food. On the seventh day you give the dog just the new food. Be willing to slow down the food transition. While in most cases the food transition can happen over the course of one week, some dogs have delicate systems that require a longer period to get used to new food. If your dog is having difficulty digesting its new food, then slow down the pace. Mix less of the new food in to its previous food and wait until it is easily digesting a mixture before moving forward with transition. Signs that your dog is having a hard time adjusting to its new food usually include digestive problems, including vomiting or diarrhea. Try a different food if necessary. There is the chance that your dog will simply reject the new dog food that you have chosen. If your dog refuses to eat the new food, even when mixed with the old food, then you may need to find a new dog food. Many dogs refuse a new food because they get attention when they refuse to eat. Put the food down and leave the room for ten minutes. Then come back and throw any uneaten food away. Don't give your dog anything else until the next meal. At the next meal, repeat the process of putting the food down and leaving the room. This is common if you are trying to transition between wet and dry dog food. A dog that is used to one or the other may have a hard time eating a different consistency of food. In general, however, wet food is often more palatable to dogs and you may have a hard time getting your dog to eat kibble once it has eaten wet food. Adjust the frequency and amount of food your dog is receiving. Once your dog is on its new adult diet, you will need to adjust the amount of food that it is receiving. The new food will have a different caloric content and you will need to take that in to account. To begin with, follow the directions on the food packaging, which usually suggests a serving size based on your dog's weight and age. As with the type of adult food you are feeding your dog, you can discuss serving size with your dog's veterinarian. They should be able to suggest how many calories your dog should be eating per day. | Consider the food transition when your dog is approximately one year old. Switch sooner if your dog is spayed or neutered or becomes overweight. Take your dog's breed into consideration. Assess your dog's weight. Discuss an appropriate new food with your veterinarian. Make the transition to adult food gradually. Be willing to slow down the food transition. Try a different food if necessary. Adjust the frequency and amount of food your dog is receiving. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Make-Money-Selling-Crafts | How to Make Money Selling Crafts | To make money selling crafts, you'll need to choose something that you're passionate about and market your products well. Choose a craft that you enjoy making, like woven baskets or ceramics, since you'll need to invest a lot of time in producing your sale items. Develop your craft-making abilities over a period of time before you start selling, which will help ensure that the crafts you have on offer are high quality pieces that will sell. Once you've mastered your product, advertise it on social media. Attend local craft fairs to meet new customers and build up your reputation. You can also use selling websites like etsy.com to sell your items. You'll increase your chances of generating sales by having good quality pictures of your products on your site. | See what sells. Perhaps you make several types of crafts, but aren't sure which one would be a strong seller. Or maybe you want to go “all-in” on crafting for profits despite a lack of previous experience. You may want to start by seeing what others are selling successfully. Visit craft shows in your area, local retailers that sell crafts, and websites that specialize in selling handmade items. What are other crafters trying to sell, how much are they selling it for, and do they seem to actually be making sales? Depending on your situation, you may be seeking validation of the possible profitability of your chosen craft, or inspiration on the type of crafting to focus your energies on. Follow your passion. Being inspired by others is a good start, but you also need to be motivated to do the work. If you're going to make some real money by selling your wares, you'll have to dedicate substantial time and energy to making, marketing, selling, and shipping your craftwork. If your heart is not in it, your chances of success are minimal. If you find that hand-weaved baskets seem to sell well, but you hate basket weaving and much prefer working with ceramics, you're probably best served to follow your passion. At very least, you'll “go down swinging,” as they say. Some of the work involved in selling crafts can be repetitive drudgery, so it is helpful if the creation component of it is at least stimulating and enjoyable. Focus on quality. Let's face it — if people want junk crafts, they will just buy mass-produced knock-offs at a big box retailer for a lower price. Many people love handmade items, but they want those hands to be skilled ones. You need to do a reality check — is your crafting good enough to stack up to the competition? Your birdhouses or vases may be good enough to give your niece for her birthday, but are they good enough for strangers to pay real money for them? You may want to take some time mastering your craft before jumping into sales. It is better to build a reputation for high quality craftsmanship right from the start. Do the math. Whether you are selling crafts, cars, or commercial real estate, you need to have some talent for running numbers and estimating costs and profits to be successful. You have to be practical about the potential profitability of your craftwork. When establishing the “price point” for your craftwork, you need to consider the cost of materials; supplies, equipment, and possibly workspace; advertising; stocking your items for sale; shipping (especially if selling online); labor (yours and possibly others'); and the retail markup, which should probably be at least in the 30-35% range. If you cannot produce your craft for a reasonable price while still making a profit, then you need to change your craft, streamline your methods, or forget about making money this way. Be optimistically realistic. However much scouting, planning, and number-crunching you do, selling crafts for a profit is always going to be a bit of a crapshoot. What works for some may not work for others, for a variety of reasons known and unknown. Don't go into the process expecting to make big money right away, or you are bound to be disappointed. It takes time to start making money selling crafts, and even that is not always enough. So, there is no guarantee of success, but there is also nothing that says you cannot be successful. A positive attitude can go a long way, especially during the lean times early on. Market your product and yourself. Whether you are selling in person or online, you need to spread the word about your craftwork and about you, the craftsperson. Especially when buying handmade items, people like to feel a connection to the artisan. When selling at a craft fair or other locale in person, distribute professional-grade business cards. Also try to build a “mailing” list — although email or social media accounts may be more appropriate these days. Create a business website where people can visit and learn more about your little enterprise. Spread the word on social media via friends and family. Emphasize personalized customer service, regardless of sales venue. Ship orders promptly, and provide contact information for service or questions. Consider providing refunds, exchanges, or repairs. Sell online. Gone are the days when crafters had to rely exclusively on craft shows. The internet can act as one giant, never-ending craft show if you utilize it well. Etsy.com is probably the most well-known of numerous sites that focus on the sale of handmade items. There, you have the opportunity to create your own little online “shop.” Make the most of it by creating an enticing name, logo, images, and descriptive stories of your business and your product(s) for sale. Professional quality photographs of your crafts are now the standard for sales on such sites. Take the time, or pay the price, to get the best shots of your product. If you don't know much about search engine optimization (SEO), learn. You need to choose the right titles and tags in order to direct search engine traffic to your page. Sites like Etsy take a cut of your profits, of course. So, if you are web savvy, you may want to consider selling over your own site. This may serve you better after you have developed a solid customer base, however. Set up shop at festivals. While online sales have superseded them for many crafters, selling at festivals and craft shows can still be a keystone of your strategy. After all, there is no better way to show the quality of your wares, and use your charms as the craftsperson, than in person. There are many online resources that can provide information on festivals and shows nationwide and in your region. Start with festivals in your local area, and start small. Perhaps you can “sublet” some space in another vendor's stall, for instance. Don't go “all in” until you see how your product sells. Scout festivals first whenever possible. Get a feel for the atmosphere and whether items like yours are likely to sell well. Festival ads and reviews are helpful, but cannot replace the value of seeing things with your own eyes. Be a people-person in your booth. Talk to people. Tell your story. If possible, conduct demonstrations of you creating your crafts, or show videos of the process. Get your product into stores. Instead of trying to compete with retailers both large and small, try to work with them. Your quality products and their customer volume can make a profitable combination. As with craft shows, starting small and starting local in the retail setting can help you “get your feet wet” and better determine the profit viability of your craftwork. Look first for businesses in your area that focus on selling local handmade products. Then consider retailers that sell products that are comparable or complementary to yours. Prepare a sales pitch for owners or managers of potential retail shops. If you can provide specific information on sales projections, anticipated profits, etc., you will likely increase your odds of success. When possible, try to negotiate an arrangement that lets you set up your crafts as a virtual shop-within-a-shop. Display your crafts together, along with business cards or other promotional materials. Sell products out of your home. If your specialty is framed artwork targeted toward children, ask around at pediatrician offices, kids' clothing stores, daycare centers, and the like. See if you can place some of your product and provide information about sales from your home. Advertise with flyers, social media posts, and so on for a craft party to be held at your home. Display your product line(s), show where they are made, and work to build up an interested potential customer base. Wherever you are selling, at home, online, or at shows or stores, make sure you know the rules. When selling from home, you may need to deal with local business licensing and permitting regulations. Craft shows and websites like Etsy will have their own lists of rules and regulations that you need to know and follow to continue selling there. Wherever you sell, you probably need to know how to collect taxes on your sales. The website or craft show may be able to help you out with advice on the process, or you may have to navigate the process alone. Don't just skip this step, assuming that no one will ever notice You could very easily regret it down the line. | See what sells. Follow your passion. Focus on quality. Do the math. Be optimistically realistic. Market your product and yourself. Sell online. Set up shop at festivals. Get your product into stores. Sell products out of your home. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Remove-Tree-Sap-From-Your-Car | How to Remove Tree Sap From Your Car | To remove tree sap from your car. start by spraying your car with clean water, which will wash off any large pieces of sap. Then, scrub the remaining sap off using a rag and hot, soapy water. If the sap still won't come off, try rubbing it off with mineral spirits, WD-40, or hand sanitizer. You can also find a commercial tree sap remover at your local auto parts store. | Wash your car as soon as possible. The longer tree sap or any substances like sap (and bird droppings or insect remains for that matter) are left on the surface of the vehicle, the more difficult they are to remove. Acting fast will require the least amount of effort and the most success at getting a sparkling car exterior. Spray off your car with clean water. Giving your car this initial rinse will get all the large debris off but it will also help you to see where you need to focus further cleaning. Take the time to wash your whole car, even if it's not all covered in sap. You will be more satisfied when you get the sap off if your whole car is nice and clean. Besides, you already have all the supplies out and ready to go. Rub the surface with a microfiber rag covered in hot, soapy water. Use the hottest water you can, as the sap will be weakened most effectively by really hot water. Before using other methods of sap removal, try cleaning your car with really hot water. If the sap gets removed, then great, you are done. If the sap remains, at least you have a clean surface on which to try other methods. Be sure that your rag is clean and that you rinse it often to get any debris and sap out. Using a dirty rag will only spread this across the surface of your car. Rinse the surface repeatedly. Rinsing the area you are cleaning will allow you to see if your job is done or if you need to use more elbow grease to get the sap removed. Dry and wax the surface of your car once the sap is removed. All the cleaning you have done has effectively removed the sap but it has probably also removed any wax that was protecting the surface. Use your usual method of waxing your car or, if you have never waxed your car before, consult How to Wax You Car for directions. Wash your car with soap and hot water. Make sure to get all the dirt and grime off the surface around the sap. If attempting to get the sap off with the hot water and soap doesn't work, continue with these steps. Even if the wash doesn't get the sap off, the warmth of the water will begin to soften it, making it easier to remove. This is also helpful if the sap has been on the car for a while. Buy commercial tree sap remover and review the instructions on the container. This should be available at any auto-parts store. Using this type of product is a highly recommended way to remove sap from your car because it is formulated to dissolve sap effectively without hurting your car's exterior. Place some of the remover on a clean rag. Then hold the rag on the sap while gently applying pressure for a minute or so. The remover should soak into the sap, breaking down the connection between the sap and your car's surface. Rub in a circular motion over the sap to lift it from the surface. Be relatively gentle while doing this, as you don't want to spread any of the sap across the surface of your car. Finish by washing and waxing your car. Rewashing you car will help remove any residue left over from the sap or the cleaner used to remove it. A new coating of wax is recommended to renew the protective coating on the vehicle, making sure your car has a beautiful, shiny surface. Wash your car with soap and hot water. Make sure to get all the dirt and grime off the surface around the sap. If attempting to get the sap off with the hot water and soap doesn't work, continue with these steps. Even if the wash doesn't get the sap off, the warmth of the water will begin to soften it, making it easier to remove. This is also helpful if the sap has been on the car for a while. Use a household product to remove the sap.There are a variety of products that you may have in your home already that can remove tree sap effectively. Be sure to use them sparingly and test them on a hidden area of your paint job before applying to any sap, as none of them are made specifically for the surface of a car. Try mineral spirits or alcohol wipes. Mineral spirits applied lightly with a soft cloth will break down the sap and remove it but it has the potential of damaging your car's surface. Do not rub too vigorously or for too long so that the paint job is not damaged. Mineral spirits and alcohol wipes should be tried separately. Use the previous directions and try with mineral spirits. If that fails, use readily available 91% isopropyl alcohol instead of mineral spirits. Alcohol evaporates quickly and although your cloth will seem wet, it is the water that is left after the alcohol evaporates. Keep your cloth wet with fresh alcohol and move quickly with light pressure. This will easily remove hard dried as well as fresh pine tree sap. Spray WD-40 on the tree sap. The sap will begin to absorb the solvent. Let it sit for a few minutes. You can use your rag to lift the loosened sap from the car. Rub hand sanitizer on the tree sap. Place a small amount of hand sanitizer on the sap and let it set for a few minutes. Rub with a clean cloth and the sap dissolves right off. Finish with a regular car wash and wax. The car wash will help remove any residue left over from the sap or the cleaner used to remove it. Any solution that would deteriorate paint will be washed away. A new coating of wax is recommended to renew the protective coating on the vehicle. | Wash your car as soon as possible. Spray off your car with clean water. Rub the surface with a microfiber rag covered in hot, soapy water. Rinse the surface repeatedly. Dry and wax the surface of your car once the sap is removed. Wash your car with soap and hot water. Buy commercial tree sap remover and review the instructions on the container. Place some of the remover on a clean rag. Rub in a circular motion over the sap to lift it from the surface. Finish by washing and waxing your car. Wash your car with soap and hot water. Use a household product to remove the sap.There are a variety of products that you may have in your home already that can remove tree sap effectively. Finish with a regular car wash and wax. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Remove-a-Staple-from-Your-Hand | How to Remove a Staple from Your Hand | To remove a staple from your hand, wash the wound under cold water with antibacterial soap to avoid infection. Once the area is clean, try to pull the staple out in the same angle that it went in to keep it in one piece. If the staple is small, use a part of tweezers, but for a larger staple you'll want to use needle-nose pliers to pry it out. Regardless of what tool you use to pull the staple out, dip it in rubbing alcohol before starting to kill any bacteria. In cases where the staple is stuck or bent, seek medical attention since you can cause more damage to the surrounding tissue by trying to force it out. | Clean the wound. Wash the wound for five minutes under cold water using antibacterial soap to remove obvious dirt from the area and to help avoid infection. You could also use mild dish detergent soap such as Ivory or Joy. Avoid using hydrogen peroxide, rubbing alcohol, or iodide as these can actually slow healing. Check the wound for the staple. Look to see if the staple is still intact and that no parts of the staple, including any of the adhesive that holds the stick of staples together, have broken off in the wound. Pull the staple straight out. Try to pull the staple out in the same angle as it appears to be lodged into the wound. It should come out fairly easily; however, if it does not pull directly out or appears to be stuck or bent, seek medical attention, as you can cause more damage to the surrounding tissues as you pull it out. For a light staple, use tweezers. Heavier staples (such as those used on wood, or for bigger stacks of paper) may require the use of needle-nose pliers. Whatever you use, dip the tweezers or needle-nose pliers in a rubbing alcohol solution before bringing it anywhere near your wound. If you find the tweezers or pliers pinching the skin because the staple is flush against the skin, wedge out the staple a little bit with a flat, firm item like a nail file. Again, make sure to dip the nail file or other flat, firm item you selected in rubbing alcohol first. Stop the bleeding. If the wound is bleeding, let it do so for about five minutes, as this can help remove infection-causing materials from the injury site. Use an antibiotic. Apply a thin layer of antibiotic ointment or cream, such as Neosporin, to the wound. If you develop a rash, stop using the ointment. Consider the use of a bandage. Most puncture wounds will heal nicely without the use of a bandage; however, use a bandage if your wound is still bleeding or has a visible opening. The bandage will protect the wound from becoming dirty and irritated. Be sure to wash the wound with soap and water before applying the bandage. Change the bandage at least once a day or whenever it becomes wet or dirty. Keep it elevated. If you experience pain, use a pillow to keep the injury elevated above at or above the level of your heart anytime you are standing or sitting down. This will help reduce swelling. Use pain medicine if necessary. Take an over-the-counter pain medication such as acetaminophen, ibuprofen and aspirin to also relieve the pain. Do not take more than the recommended dosage. For ibuprofen the dosage is 400 to 800 mg three to four times daily (max 3,200 mg/day). For acetaminophen the dosage is 650 mg every four to six hours (max daily dose: 3,250 mg daily). Do not give aspirin to anyone under the age of 19 unless you have permission from a doctor, as it may cause a serious condition known as Reye's syndrome. One side effect of chronic use of pain medications is that it can lead to gastric ulcers. Make sure that you do not take them for a prolonged time period. Examine the wound and the surrounding area. You need to first determine if the staple is still embedded in the wound and if any blood vessels, nerves or tendons were damaged by the staple. This will help you determine if you will need a tetanus shot. A tetanus shot might be needed if you received your last tetanus shot over 10 years ago, or if the staple was dirty or possibly dirty and you received your last tetanus shot over five years ago. Call 911 and apply steady pressure if you are bleeding severely. If the bleeding is severe, you will notice any of the following: blood is pumping from the wound, or the bleeding does not stop or slow down when applying pressure. You may also be bleeding so profusely that the blood is soaking through one bandage after another. If this is the case, call emergency services for assistance. Call your doctor or seek prompt medical treatment for moderate bleeding. Be sure to seek medical treatment within an hour. With moderate bleeding, the bleeding slows or stops with pressure but starts again once pressure is no longer applied. The blood might also soak through a few bandages, but the bleeding isn't fast or out of control. You need to call an ambulance if you or someone else cannot safely drive you to the doctor or hospital, or if heavy traffic will delay your treatment. Seek medical treatment for mild bleeding accompanied with severe pain. You should seek medical treatment within one hour. With mild bleeding, the bleeding either stops by itself or when you apply pressure. The bleeding may also stop or slow down to an ooze or trickle after applying pressure for 15 minutes. The bleeding can ooze or trickle for as long as 45 minutes. You should call for an ambulance if you or someone else cannot safely drive you to receive medical treatment, or if heavy traffic will delay your travels. Get medical care immediately if you are experiencing severe pain. Chances are that your injury will only get worse, so you need to contact your doctor or seek medical treatment within one hour. If the pain makes it unsafe for you or someone else to drive, call an ambulance. Determine the urgency of moderate pain. Seek medical help if you have moderate pain lasting for longer than eight hours, and you've been injected with a high pressure item containing substances such as oil or paint. Know that mild pain can be serious as well. Seek medical help if you have mild pain lasting for longer than eight hours, and you've been injected with a high-pressure item containing substances such as oil or paint. | Clean the wound. Check the wound for the staple. Pull the staple straight out. Stop the bleeding. Use an antibiotic. Consider the use of a bandage. Keep it elevated. Use pain medicine if necessary. Examine the wound and the surrounding area. Call 911 and apply steady pressure if you are bleeding severely. Call your doctor or seek prompt medical treatment for moderate bleeding. Seek medical treatment for mild bleeding accompanied with severe pain. Get medical care immediately if you are experiencing severe pain. Determine the urgency of moderate pain. Know that mild pain can be serious as well. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Calculate-Dog-Years | How to Calculate Dog Years | To quickly calculate dog years, start by subtracting 2 from your dog's current biological age. Next, multiply that number by 4. Then, add 21 to the answer. For example, if your dog is 10 years old, subtracting 2 gives you 8. Then, multiplying by 4 gives you 32. When you add 21 to that, you end up with 53, which is a rough estimate of your dog's age in dog years! | Learn your dog's age in actual years. Knowing your dog's actual biological age is necessary to calculate his age in dog years. It also helps you make decisions during his life that are usually based on age, such as when to spay or neuter and when to change to a senior diet. Finding out your dog's age is easy to do if you have the dog's records or got him when he was a puppy. However, if you don't have this information readily available, there are other ways to determine his age. Most of these methods involving an investigation of a number of physical characteristics, including the condition of the teeth, size, coat condition, and eye conditions. Inspect your dog's teeth. Look at the stage and condition of the teeth. Determine what stage the teeth are at. Puppies will usually have all of their baby teeth by the time they are 8 weeks old and should have all of their permanent teeth by the time they are 6 to 7 months old. They start getting their permanent canine teeth, the longest ones, usually right at 6 months old, which makes this the easiest time to accurately age a puppy. If they have all of their permanent teeth and they are white and clean, they could be up to 1 1/2 to 2 years, but probably around 1 year old. Assess the condition of the teeth. Between the ages of 1 and 2 years old, many dogs will start to show some yellowing on their back teeth. Tartar buildup starts shortly after this. Most dogs will start to show wear on their incisors, the teeth along the front of their mouth, between 3 and 5 years. The wear on the teeth will gradually increase as your dog ages. Significant tartar build-up with evidence of gum disease (look for red, inflamed gums) can be seen after they are 5 years old. Missing teeth usually means that the dog is a senior and could use some dental care. The stage and condition of the teeth can help to give you a good estimate of your dog's age, but remember that there are many factors besides age that can affect their appearance including breed, genetics, chewing behavior, and history of dental care. Assess your dog's size and growth. If your dog is continuing to grow, then he is less than 1 1/2 to 2 years old, depending on overall size. Small dogs have reached their full height and length by around one year of age, but large and especially giant breed dogs may take until they are 18 months to 2 years old. Assess your dog's muscle tone. Younger dogs are more likely to have more muscle definition because they generally have higher activity levels. In contrast, older dogs can be a little bonier or fatter from decreased activity. Watch your dog when he moves around. You may find he moves with a little more stiffness; this is also a sign of aging. Examine your dog's coat. Younger dogs usually have soft, fine coats. Older dogs tend to have thicker and coarser fur that can sometimes also be oilier. A senior dog may also have grays or patches of white, particularly around the snout. Inspect your dog's eyes. Younger dogs tend to have bright, clear eyes without tearing or discharge, whereas older dogs' eyes can be cloudy or opaque. Take your dog to the vet. Your vet can estimate your dog's age based on a comprehensive physical exam or tests that evaluate the bones, joints, muscles, and organs. This is the best way to get an accurate assessment of your dog's actual age. Understand how size impacts dog years. The most accurate dog year calculations consider the size of the dog. Smaller dogs do tend to live longer than larger dogs, although they may mature more quickly in the first few years of life. A large dog may mature more slowly initially but be considered a "senior" at age five. Medium-sized dogs are somewhere in the middle in terms of maturation and lifespan. In other words, after they reach adulthood, larger dogs will be considered older in dog years than a smaller dog of the same age. Determine the size of your adult dog. You can weigh your dog at home or, for a more accurate assessment, have your dog weighed at the vet. Here are general categories based on dog size: Small dogs: 20 pounds or less Medium dogs: 21 to 50 pounds Large dogs: 51 to 100 pounds Giant breed dogs: 100 pounds or more. Note that most dogs are considered adults by the time they are two years old. For dogs of all sizes the relationship of dog age to human years is the same for the first two years of a dog's life. For example, irrespective of whether he is small, medium or large, a dog that is 1 year old is about 15 years old in dog years. At 2 years old, he is 24 in dog years. After they reach 2 years old, however, is when a dog's size begins to affect his age in dog years. Calculate for your dog's age after 2 years old. For every year after your dog is 2 years old, add the following number of years to 24 (his age at 2 years), based on your dog's weight: for small and medium dogs add 5 years, for large dogs add 6 years, and for giant breed dogs add 7 years. Consider the age of a pug at 10 years old. At 2 years old, the pug is 24 in dog years. Every year after that, he ages by 5 years. This means that by his 10th year, he is actually 64 years old in dog years. A giant-breed dog, such as a Great Dane, ages more rapidly after age 2. At 2 years old, he is 24 in dog years. Each year after that, he ages by 7 years. By his 10th year, he is in fact 80 years old in dog years. Take your dog's age and subtract by 2. Note that your dog needs to be at least two years old. This when dogs are considered to have reached adulthood. Multiple that number by 4 and then add 21. Now you will have an estimate of your dog's age in dog years. For example, if your dog is 10 years old, then his age in dogs years is 53. Be aware that this calculation is just a rough estimate. Because this method does not take your dog's size into consideration, it cannot be completely accurate. This calculation will be more accurate for smaller dogs than larger dogs. For example, as we calculated above, when factoring in size, a Great Dane at 10 years old is 80 in dog years, whereas this method would calculate his age in dog years to be 53. However, this method is an easy trick to calculate dog years quickly if you don't know your dog's size or are in a hurry. | Learn your dog's age in actual years. Inspect your dog's teeth. Assess the condition of the teeth. Assess your dog's size and growth. Assess your dog's muscle tone. Examine your dog's coat. Inspect your dog's eyes. Take your dog to the vet. Understand how size impacts dog years. Determine the size of your adult dog. Calculate for your dog's age after 2 years old. Take your dog's age and subtract by 2. Multiple that number by 4 and then add 21. Be aware that this calculation is just a rough estimate. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Overcome-Anxiety | How to Overcome Anxiety | To overcome anxiety in the moment, take some deep breaths to restore oxygen to your brain and help yourself calm down. You should inhale into your belly for 4 seconds and exhale for 4 seconds, which will slow your breathing down. Besides taking deep breaths, you can try meditating to relieve your anxiety. If you want to overcome anxiety in the long-run, try pinpointing what's been causing it. For example, is there a specific activity or person in your life that's making you anxious? If so, consider removing yourself from the situation to help yourself feel better. Even if your anxiety isn't immediately solvable, realize that anxiety is temporary and doesn't necessarily mean something bad will happen. | Understand and acknowledge that you are anxious. Do not start beating yourself up about it, or tell your self unhelpful things such as "I will never be able to get out of this" or "I am incapable." Understand that you can overcome this, and you will. Identify the source of your anxiety. Whether you have a panic attack or a sudden bout of worry and fear, it is important to determine what is causing your anxiety. Is something in your environment the primary source? Is a possible mishap the origin? Is an impending activity, meeting, or event the cause? You can handle a fear much easier when you are clear about what it is. Determine if your worry is solvable. If you know what your fear is, the next step is to determine if it is something you can deal with, or something that only time (or your imagination) can manage. If your fear is largely imagination or can't be dealt with now, then make the conscious effort to put it out of your mind. If your worry is something that needs to be dealt with, then take steps to create a course of action. What can you do to lessen this fear or worry? Is this a long term or a short term fix? What can I do to prevent this worry or fear from recurring? Consider the worst. If your fear is mind-consuming, take a moment to think about the honest and absolute worse thing that could happen as a result of it. Perhaps you're getting ready to do a huge presentation, and you begin to panic. Stop and think “what is the worst that could happen?” No matter how creative your response may be, thinking critically will lead to find that should it occur, there are few endings that can't be dealt with in a reasonable manner. Accept uncertainty. It can be tough to stop worrying when you're never quite sure how a scenario will play out. At this point, it is important to simply accept the ever-present fact of uncertainty. We can't know how something will go, or what the ending may be; worrying about the unknown is an unnecessary source of fear that can be avoided with the simple acceptance of chance. Consider the use of your worry. You are worried for a reason - anxiety is a fear response to a real or imagined scenario. Problems arise when we begin worrying about things that don't actually cause us danger. So, think about the purpose of your worry. Is it helpful? If you're afraid of a legitimately dangerous situation, then your worry is being put to good use. If however, you are anxious without a purpose, then your worry has the best of you. Remembering that can help to bring you down off of an anxiety high. Focus on both the positive and the negative. When you are anxious about something, it can be incredibly easy to see only the negative aspects of it. As with all things though, there must be a positive facet to your fear-filled situation as well. Don't focus on a single negative event while completely ignoring other related positives ones at the same time. Avoid thinking in terms of "all or nothing. " No matter what situation is about to go down, it's unlikely that the outcome is completely black or white. Don't allow yourself to ignore gray areas and overdramatize something. For example, assuming that if you don't get accepted to a particular college, you're a total failure and nobody will want you. This type of thinking is common with anxiety, but is also totally irrational. Don’t make it into a catastrophe. If your fear is of something non-dangerous and possibly even imagined, one of the surefire ways to make it worse is to turn it into a catastrophe. If you're anxious about flying on a plane, and at the first sign of turbulence turn it into a crash, you are making your anxiety worse. See every situation as it really is, rather than what it could be. Try not to jump to conclusions. If you lack facts and have yet to experience your worry or fear, then jumping to conclusions about what might happen will do you no good. If an uncertainty lays before you, you can reduce your anxiety by realizing (and admitting) that you don't know what may happen. Consider all possible outcomes, rather than jumping to the most morbid or unlikely. Don’t let your emotions control your reasoning. When you're scared and anxious, it is easy to let emotions get in the way of logic. Your emotions will do just that though, and they will fool you into thinking you are in more danger than you really are. Don't let your fear convince you are in danger, unless you really are. The same goes with all negative anxiety-based emotions, including stress, guilt, and embarrassment. Avoid making everything personal. When anxiety strikes, don't allow it to force you to take blame for a situation outside of your control. If you're anxious and scared because your house was broken into, it may be easy to take it personally and blame yourself for the break-in. This type of thinking is illogical though, and will make you feel worse. Unless you invited thieves knowingly into your home, you can't be held accountable for the robbing they did. Breathe deeply. When you get anxious, your breathing quickens, which reduces the amount of oxygen your brain gets. This makes it more difficult to think clearly and form logical reasoning. Take a moment to focus on taking deep belly breaths. Inhale for 4 seconds, hold the breath for 4 seconds, and then release it for 4 seconds. Doing this for 1-2 minutes should help to calm your nerves quickly. If you are confused on where you should be breathing from, put your hands on your stomach. Feel it rise and fall as you breathe. Take some time to exercise. Whether anxiety has just struck or you are chronically anxious, exercising is sure to help. Physical activity releases endorphins which increase happiness, and reduce cortisol - a stress producing hormone. As soon as you start to feel anxiety hit, go workout or take a walk. Aside from immediate treatment, regular exercise will decrease the amount of anxiety you feel over time. Meditate or pray. Consciously taking your thoughts off of your stressor and focusing them inwards on something peaceful will reduce your anxiety and fear immensely. When anxious thoughts start to hit, retreat inwards and repeat a positive mantra to yourself or pray. Focus entirely on this, and eventually your anxiety will evaporate on its own. Keep a healthy diet. Although it may seem silly to link your anxiety to what you ate for breakfast, the foods you eat have a big impact on your mental functioning. Studies have shown a correlation between unhealthy eating and high anxiety and stress. Try to incorporate more fruits, veggies, and whole grains into your daily diet. Get tested to make sure you don't have any food allergies that may be triggering your anxiety as well - a common experience. Take a magnesium supplement. Magnesium works in your body to reduce the effects of anxiety from regular worries to panic attacks. If you have a magnesium deficiency, you may be more anxious than you should be. Grab a magnesium supplement from a local health foods store and see if it improves your mood. Try a herbal remedy. You don't have to rely solely on chemical filled medications to relieve your anxiety. Instead, try an all-natural herbal remedy. Many scientific studies have shown a strong correlation between reduced anxiety and taking supplements of St. Johns wort, valerian root, and chamomile. Try one of these supplements before heading for heavier medications. Visit a therapist. If your anxiety is so strong that you can't seem to overcome it, there is no shame in going to a professional. The same way that you wouldn't question the intelligence of visiting a medical doctor for an injury, it is similarly healthy to go to a psychologist for emotional and mental wellbeing. If you experience chronic anxiety or recurrent panic attacks, you may have a psychiatric diagnosis that can be easily dealt with through specialized therapy or medication. Talk to your doctor about the different types of medications used to treat anxiety. SSRIs and SNRIs are antidepressants sometimes prescribed for anxiety; SSRIs help boost serotonin, while SNRIs increase norepinephrine and serotonin. Other medications used to treat anxiety include benzodiazepines and beta-blockers. | Understand and acknowledge that you are anxious. Identify the source of your anxiety. Determine if your worry is solvable. Consider the worst. Accept uncertainty. Consider the use of your worry. Focus on both the positive and the negative. Avoid thinking in terms of "all or nothing. Don’t make it into a catastrophe. Try not to jump to conclusions. Don’t let your emotions control your reasoning. Avoid making everything personal. Breathe deeply. Take some time to exercise. Meditate or pray. Keep a healthy diet. Take a magnesium supplement. Try a herbal remedy. Visit a therapist. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Support-a-Friend-After-Surgery | How to Support a Friend After Surgery | To support a friend after surgery, plan a visit in the hospital to bring them gifts, like books, magazines, or a favorite snack to lift their spirits. When your friend comes home, offer to get groceries or bring over re-heatable meals. Additionally, help them with chores, such as doing laundry, washing dishes, walking the dog, or taking care of the children. You can also ask about driving them to any follow-up doctor's appointments or keep them company in the waiting room. | Plan your visit ahead of time. While your friend might usually love a spur of the moment visit, recovering from surgery is a different matter entirely. Not only do hospitals often have specific visiting hours, your friend might need to prepare physically and emotionally for visitors. Know the hospitals visiting hours and policies. Depending on where in the hospital your friend is staying, there is different protocol for visitation. If your friend is still in the recovery room, for example, only one visitor at a time is permitted, with the nurse's permission and supervision, and there are stricter rules for personal hygiene. Call the hospital ahead of time to ask about visiting hours and any restrictions. Try to reach a family member or spouse to see when would be a good time to visit. This way, you'll have a better idea of how your friend is feeling, what tests have been run, and whether they're up for visitors. Once you know, plan your visit accordingly. Call or text once more before heading out to make sure your presence is still welcome. Plan to stay about 20 or 30 minutes, but use your judgment. If your friend seems tired or disengaged, you should slip out sooner. If they seem happy to see you, and are excited to talk to you, then feel free to stay longer. Know post-surgery etiquette and hygiene. A lot of things can be bothersome to patients just out of surgery, so make sure you do not do anything to cause your friend discomfort during your visit. Do not wear perfume, aftershave or strong smelling lotions as people are often sensitive to smells when they're sick or recovering from surgery. In addition, many healthcare facilities are now fragrance-free. When you enter and leave a friend's room, wash your hands with soap, water, alcohol rubs, or hand sanitizer. Check with the nurses' station before entering the room, as you could be required to use a gown, gloves and/or a mask. People are more susceptible to germs after an operation. If you have any type of illness, such as a a cold or flu, ask the hospital staff beforehand if it's safe for you to visit your friend, as it usually isn't. If you are a smoker, only smoke in designated areas and do not get cigarette fumes anywhere near your friend. Due to the risk of bacteria and germs spreading, you could be banned from the hospital if you bring a non service dog into the hospital. Do not swear as this is usually against hospital rules and can get you thrown out and/or banned if caught. Avoid the patient's bed, as this can spread germs. Do not sit or put your feet on the bed. Do not touch the patient's wounds or any medical equipment they are attached to. Do not use the patient's toilet or bathroom, this can also spread germs and bacteria, and nurses may also report you and have you removed from the hospital. Do not share any property, such as toiletries or tissues, with a patient. Bring a gift. People love to receive gifts, especially if they're not feeling well. It's not about the money spent, but just knowing that a person cares. Consider bringing a small gift to your friend for them to enjoy post-surgery. Many people think to bring flowers, but flowers are not ideal for a hospital stay. They take up a great deal of room, and shelf-space in a hospital room is limited. They also decay quickly, and are hard to transport home. Boredom is a huge issue with hospital patients, so consider an interactive gift. Try novels, magazines, crossword puzzle, sudoku books, or a journal. If your friend has some kind of electronic media, like an iPad or tablet, try iTunes or Amazon gift certificates, so they can select and purchase entertaining media for themselves. If food is allowed, bring the patient their favorite snack, as hospital food can get tiresome. However, keep in mind that even if you mean well, they might not want to eat, as surgery and medications can affect their appetite. Many patients are placed on special diets following surgery, and some patients may not be allowed to eat until normal bowel function returns, such as after a bowel resection surgery. Make the hospital feel like home. A hospital can be a drab, impersonal space. If your friend is there for a prolonged recovery period, try to make their hospital room feel less alien by creating a homey environment for your friend. Decorate the room. Hospital rooms are beige or white and this can grow depressing with time. Bring cheerful posters, a small decorative hanging, or colorful blankets and throw pillows. Just check with hospital staff first to make sure you're not violating any hospital policies. Bring them something familiar. During a traumatic event like a surgery, familiarity can be a comfort. Make a small scrapbook of friends, family members, beloved pets, and other loved ones. Borrow your friend's iPod and create custom playlist of their favorite feel better songs or burn them a mix CD. Buy DVD's of their favorite movies and TV shows, as many hospital rooms have a television set patients can use. Act natural when visiting. Your friend is probably eager to get back to a sense of normal, so share news of mutual friends and discuss what's been happening in the news or on TV. Let your friend feel like they're part of the world even if they are stuck in a hospital room. Organize group visits. If possible, and after you make sure your friend is up to it, get a group of friends together to visit your friend. Group visits can feel like a more natural hang out session than one-on-one communication, as people often congregate in groups. Your friend will also be happy to see how many people care and have taken the time to visit. Check hospital policy to make sure there isn't a cap on the number of people permitted in a room at a time. Plan for the future. Making some future plans and promises can give your friend something to look forward to after their hospital stay, and reassurance their needs won't be forgotten once they're released. Set a date to go see a movie, go out to dinner, get coffee, go shopping, etc., sometime after they will be released from the hospital. Your friend will appreciate having something small to look forward to after their stay is over. Offer any assistance in the transition back home, such as driving your friend back from the hospital and running errands for them during recovery. Help out with food. Food is one of the biggest issues post-surgery as we all need to eat, and oftentimes cooking and even shopping are difficult in the wake of an operation. Be prepared to help your friend with meals during their recovery. Offer to get groceries. If you're able to go grocery shopping for your friend, do so. Check in with them if you're planning a shopping trip for yourself and see if there's anything they need. Bring over dishes. If your friend is uncomfortable with someone else doing their shopping, cook for them. Great options for meals are dishes that are re-heatable and keep for long periods. Aim for casseroles, soups, lasagnas, and salads. Be aware of any diet restrictions your friend might have. Oftentimes, certain foods are forbidden after an operation. Ask your friend about any kinds of food the doctor has advised against before preparing them a dish. Also, if your friend had any diet restrictions before the surgery - such as being gluten-free or a vegetarian - make sure you are aware of this. Offer your help with chores. Don't tell them to call you if they need anything. They will probably not want to bother you. Offer specific help, like, "I have some free time this afternoon, do you need help with anything?" Household chores are a burden after surgery and your friend will really appreciate a helping hand. Do laundry, dishes, dusting, and any other cleaning. Your friend is probably laid up, so don't let them fall behind. If you have an extra hour, donate it to your friend in need. If they have pets, help with that. Clean the cat's litter box, walk the dog, make sure the animals have food or water. All of this will be appreciated. If needed, provide free childcare. Whether your friend is a single parent or has a spouse who's busy with work, chances are they will need help with the kids after surgery. Free childcare is much appreciated. Provide entertainment. While cooking and cleaning are tangible means to help a friend in need, sometimes recovery gets boring and all a person wants is good conversation and a little entertainment. Spend a weekend night with your friend and keep them engaged in conversation and activity. Share what's going on in your life, but keep it positive and upbeat. There's no need to mention that you were just laid off or had a big fight with your spouse. You're there to be a source of positive energy. Watch a movie or television show your friend likes. Ask them beforehand if there's anything in particular they've been itching to watch, and pick up a DVD on the way over or rent from an online outlet. Board games and cards are a great way to break the monotony. If you can get a group of people together, stop by your friends house for a round of poker or a game of Clue. While alcohol is great for many social situations, it's unlikely your friend can drink with their post-surgery medication. Be polite. Do not engage in social drinking when your friend cannot. Offer to go to any follow-up exams with your friend. After a surgery, there will be a number of doctor's appointments in the following weeks. Such appointments can be stressful, and having a support system is a wonderful asset for someone recovering from surgery. Let your friend know you can drive them to the doctor's office. Oftentimes, medication interferes with the ability to drive and public transportation can be a hassle following surgery. Offering a mode of transportation is invaluable. Entertain your friend in the waiting room. Bring playing cards, books of crossword puzzles, magazines, and books or just make casual, funny conversation while waiting for the doctor. Plan something fun after the visit, even something as simple as stopping for milkshakes or having lunch. Something to look forward to can make trips to the doctor more bearable. Consider how close you are to this friend. The level of emotional intimacy makes a huge difference when it comes to what you should and should not say to someone after surgery. If you're close, it's easier to ask questions without hesitation and be more open expressing how you feel. If it's a more formal friendship, or just a new one, be natural and warm but do not let the seriousness of a surgery push you to say something that might make you both uncomfortable. Stick to small talk, like "How are you feeling?" and "Do you need any help with anything today?" Allow your friend to feel what they are feeling. There's a good chance your friend is not feeling their best in the wake of an operation. Oftentimes, we feel people need a pep talk or positive reassurance. While this is well-intentioned, it can be frustrating to a friend who simply wants to express their thoughts. Let your friend talk, and accept their feelings with patience and empathy. Avoid phrases like "I understand" or "I know how you feel." It's hard to truly understand a situation you are only experiencing secondhand. Instead, say something like "I can understand how you would feel that way. Tell me more." Do not say things like "You shouldn't feel that way" or "Cheer up." Such phrases come off as judgmental if someone is feeling discouraged. Instead, say, "I'm sorry you feel that way, can you tell me why?" and other words that let your friend know you're listening. Try active listening. Active listening is when you make a conscious effort to hear what another person is saying and to understand the message being sent. If you're helping a friend after surgery, they are the priority and you need to make this clear. Your friend might need to vent, so try to be a patient and active listener post-surgery. Pay attention. Give your friend your full attention by looking at them directly, putting aside distracting thoughts, engaging with their body language, and avoiding being distracted by the environment. Show that you're listening. Nod occasionally, smile and use other facial expressions, make sure your posture is open and inviting, and encourage the speaker to continue with verbal comments like "yes" and "I see." Provide feedback. Your role is to understand what is being said, so you may need to reflect on what your friend's expressing and ask questions to fully understand. Try things like, "So, what you're saying is..." and "What I'm hearing is..." Ask questions for clarification, like "What do you mean when you say..." and "Is this what you mean?" Defer judgment. Do not interrupt your friend. Wait until he or she is done talking before asking questions, and do not be argumentative or question their responses. Respond appropriately. Be candid, open, and honest about your responses and assert your opinions respectfully, without dismissing your friends concerns or issues. Ask the right questions. While your friend might be interested in hearing about you and your life, only talk about yourself when prompted. Talking to a friend post-surgery is about them and how they are feeling, so make sure you know what questions are appropriate to ask. Do not ask about their health or test results unless they bring it up. Oftentimes, people recovering from surgery grow tired of medical talk and might not want to go into specifics about their doctor visits. Do ask how they're feeling. A more vague question is appropriate. This gives your friend control. He or she now has the option to open up about their medical issues or to keep things light. Ask them if they need anything. People are often wary to ask favors, so make sure to offer as your friend might need assistance with day-to-day chores. Ask them about family members and other loved ones. Show your friend you care by showing genuine investment in the things and people they care about. Understand the nature of surgery anxiety. The key to being a supportive, loving friend is empathy. Seeking to understand any fears associated with surgery can help you empathize and be a more effective listener. Control, or rather loss of control, is one of the biggest fears when it comes to surgery and its aftermath. People fear handing their well-being over to someone else, and the loss of control over one's body and movements that comes in the wake of surgery is frustrating. Understand your friend is feeling a lack of control, and remind them this is a normal feeling. What's at stake when it comes to surgery is a better life. People undergo surgeries to treat prolonged illnesses or injuries, and if improvement is gradual or if the recovery period is prolonged disappointment can set in fast. Remember this when dealing with your friend, and remind them progress takes time. Going to hospitals and undergoing anesthesia bring up fear of our own mortality. This is perhaps the biggest fear associated with surgery, so be aware your friend might want to discuss dark subjects when you visit them. Be emotionally prepared for this. Know how to cope with surgery and hospital anxiety. Most people, even the calmest among us, experience some kind of fear and anxiety when in a hospital setting. Know ways to cope with this anxiety that you can share with your friend. Self-trust is important. Anxiety is rooted in mistrust. Most often this mistrust is projected onto others, but is often a reflection of mistrust for oneself. Remind your friend to trust their body and trust that they are capable of doing whatever is required for recovery. Taking action can help curb anxiety. Tell your friend to engage in activities that help with anxiety while promoting good physical well-being as well. Eat right, exercise, meditate, spend time outside, spend time with friends and family, engage in hobbies, etc. Planning is also key to staying calm. If your friend is healing, tell them to focus their energy on healing and not anxiety. Help them make a post-surgery plan to get through the days they'll be laid up. Make lists of all the materials needed - such as groceries, reading materials, and toiletries. Is there any work your friend could catch up on that they're able to do after surgery?If so, help them figure out what it is and make a plan to do it. | Plan your visit ahead of time. Know post-surgery etiquette and hygiene. Bring a gift. Make the hospital feel like home. Organize group visits. Plan for the future. Help out with food. Offer your help with chores. Provide entertainment. Offer to go to any follow-up exams with your friend. Consider how close you are to this friend. Allow your friend to feel what they are feeling. Try active listening. Ask the right questions. Understand the nature of surgery anxiety. Know how to cope with surgery and hospital anxiety. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Address-Ambassadors | How to Address Ambassadors | If you're going to meet an ambassador in person, addressing them as Mr. or Ms. Ambassador is usually appropriate. Also, if you're at an event where an ambassador is present, ask someone nearby for the correct title, since it varies by country and whether you're a citizen of that country. Additionally, make sure you do research beforehand to see if there are any special customs you'll need to follow. Failing to recognize a tradition could be viewed as offensive, and that's the last thing you want! | Use the ambassador's full title. This will get your email or letter off to a nice formal start. It also indicates to the ambassador that you acknowledge who you are speaking to and understand the meaning of that title. For example, you may write: "To Mr./Mrs. Ambassador Smith." Some countries around the world have very serious customs and traditions. If you do not honor these, it's possible that they will not receive or read your letter. Use formal language in your writing. If you are writing to an ambassador, you most likely have a matter of relative importance in mind. Ambassadors hold respected, formal offices and are much more likely to take your writing seriously if it is well-written. Try to avoid the use of colloquialisms or vernacular that may be unfamiliar to them as this will detract from your message. For example, instead of saying "i think ur views on climate change are dumb" you should say something like "I'd really like the opportunity to discuss climate change with you as I think we could both benefit from a conversation." Be concise and clear with your writing. Ambassadors are incredibly busy people that receive plenty of mail from many different people. Keeping your writing short, concise, and to the point, will give you the best chance of having your message taken on board. It also pays to include a subject line at the top of the message to give the ambassador a quick idea of what you are writing about. Write politely and strongly rather than accusingly. It's very possible that you are writing about politically sensitive issues or issues that you are passionate about. It's important that this passion doesn't turn into anger or you making unfounded accusations. This doesn't mean that you can't articulate an opinion that differs from the ambassador's, but you must do it eloquently and respectfully. For example, instead of saying "you get nothing done ur totally useless" saying something like "I feel strongly that there can be more done on this issue." If you want to get anything accomplished, it will be much more effective to work with the ambassador rather than against. Check thoroughly for any grammatical or spelling errors. This is very important to ensure that you are taken seriously and that the ambassador actually pays attention to your message. Writing that has spelling errors, typos, and grammatical errors indicates a lack of care on your part. Get someone else to proofread your writing if this is an area you struggle with. Ask someone nearby what the correct title to use is. If you're at an event where an ambassador is present, this is the best way to find out how they prefer to be addressed. The address varies from country to country and may also vary depending on whether you are a citizen of that country or not. If you cannot find out and you are unsure, Mr./Mrs. Ambassador is appropriate. Some of the various titles that ambassadors around the world hold may be: His/Her excellency The honorable X Mr/Ms. X Check to see if there are any local customs to follow when meeting. Depending on where the ambassador you're meeting is from, there may be traditions that must be followed when interacting with the ambassador. These will vary all over the world but doing some research online first would be a good place to start. If the ambassador is not from your country, be prepared to engage in customs that you may not be familiar with. Failing to recognize a tradition in a foreign country can often be viewed as offensive. Introduce yourself politely. You can do this by stating your name, where you are from, and what you would like to talk to them about. This is a good way to get the meeting off to a nice formal start. For example, in the United Arab Emirates, shaking hands gently is the polite way to greet someone as a firm handshake is considered rude and disrespectful. It's possible that they do not have time to speak to you right away; if this is the case, ask them if there may be another time that would work better. Be succinct and clear with your message. Ambassadors talk to large numbers of people on a regular basis. As such, it becomes difficult to remember every conversation had with every person. Keeping your message clear and well constructed is respectful, but also gives you the best chance of having your information heard and taken seriously. Thank them for their time and consideration. This is a nice and very polite way to sign off your meeting. Ambassadors are busy people and this shows that you appreciate their time, attention, and for listening to your thoughts. | Use the ambassador's full title. Use formal language in your writing. Be concise and clear with your writing. Write politely and strongly rather than accusingly. Check thoroughly for any grammatical or spelling errors. Ask someone nearby what the correct title to use is. Check to see if there are any local customs to follow when meeting. Introduce yourself politely. Be succinct and clear with your message. Thank them for their time and consideration. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Housebreak-an-Adult-Dog | How to Housebreak an Adult Dog | To housebreak your adult dog, watch your dog for signs it might be about to urinate or defecate in the house. When you see those signs, clap your hands together loudly to get its attention, and take your dog outside right away. Then, lead your dog to where you want it to go, picking the same spot every time, and use the same words, like “go potty,” to tell your dog what you want it to do. Be sure to praise your dog and reward it with treats or a walk when it goes outside, since positive reinforcement is the best way to teach your dog a new behavior. | Be aware that there are many reasons why adult dogs may eliminate inside the house. Unlike puppies who just don't know how to ask to go outside when they need to go, an adult dog may have much more complicated reasons for why it eliminates inside the house. If you have recently adopted an adult dog or you want to retrain your adult dog, you should first take some time to consider the reason(s) why your dog may be eliminating inside your home. Taking time to figure out what is going on with your dog will help you to decide on the best course of action. Take your dog to a veterinarian to rule out medical issues. Before you try to housebreak your adult dog, you should take him to the veterinarian to have a check-up. Some adult dogs begin to have problems with elimination due to medical issues. Your veterinarian can assess your dog to see if a medical condition is causing him to urinate or defecate inside the house. Common medical conditions that may lead to problems with your dog eliminating in the house include: Changes in your dog's diet Gastrointestinal issues Urinary tract infection Bladder stones Post-spaying hormone issues in female dogs Medications Arthritis Age related cognitive dysfunction Consider recent subtractions and/or additions your home. Some dogs develop problems with eliminating inside the house because a beloved family member has left the home or because someone has been added to the home. Consider the recent departures and arrivals in your family to determine if this may be the cause of your dog's elimination problems. Did one of your children recently go off to college? Or did you recently get a new puppy? If a recent change is the cause of your dog's elimination problems, it may take time for your dog to get used to the new family situation. Be patient and do things to let your dog know hat he is still valued and loved despite the changes. Play with him, give him praise, toys, and treats to help him feel more secure. Determine if fear or anxiety may be causing your dog’s problems. Some dogs develop fear or anxiety about going outside and may begin eliminating in the house as a result. If your dog seems reluctant to go outside, there may be something about the experience that is frightening to him. Try to determine what is causing your dog's reluctance to eliminate outside. For example, if your dog is frightened by the sound of passing cars, he may end up not eliminating enough or at all when you take him out for a walk. Identify any surface preferences that your dog has. Some dogs don't like to go outside because they have developed a preference for a certain type of surface. Common surface preferences include carpet, concrete, and furniture. Identifying your dog's surface preference may be necessary in order to retrain him to go to the bathroom outside. Pay attention to where your dog goes to the bathroom most often. Does he prefer to go on the carpet, on the tile floor, on a pile of laundry, or somewhere else? Can you think of any reason why he might prefer that spot over going outside? A surface preference may be related to the dog's previous environment. For example, a dog that spent the last few years living in an environment where he was seldom let outside may have developed a surface preference for carpet. Or, a dog that was raised in a laboratory may have a surface preference for concrete. Develop a good daily routine. Having a solid daily routine may help your dog to stop eliminating inside the house. Make sure that you feed your dog at the same times every day and take your dog outside at the same times every day. Your dog should be allowed to go outside to eliminate at least four times per day. If your dog's feeding and outside times have become erratic, decide on a schedule that will work for you and stick to it. A sample schedule for feeding and taking your dog out might be something like: 6:00am: let Fido outside 7:00am: feed Fido breakfast 7:30am: let Fido outside 12:00pm: let Fido outside 5:00pm: take Fido for a walk 7:00pm: feed Fido dinner 7:30pm: let Fido outside Encourage your dog to use the same spot every time you take him outside. In addition to keeping a steady routine for taking your dog outside, taking him to the same spot every time may also help you to housebreak your dog. Use an encouraging phrase such as “go potty” to let your dog know what you want him to do when you get to that spot. The repetition of going to the same place and hearing the same words will help your dog understand what you want from him. Remember to offer your dog lots of praise after he goes to the bathroom outside. Monitor your dog at all times. Watching your dog for signs that he might be about to urinate or defecate in the house can help you to housebreak him. If your dog is prone to eliminating inside the house, find a way to keep him in your sight at all times. Monitoring your dog's whereabouts will help you to prevent him from eliminating inside the house. Try keeping your dog on a six foot long leash that is attached to you. This will prevent him from going off to another room to eliminate and it will also help you to observe his behavior and determine when he needs to go. If you cannot keep an eye on your dog during the day, you can use a crate or baby gate to confine your dog to a small area for short periods of time (less than 4 hours). Stop your dog from eliminating inside the house by clapping. As soon as you notice that your dog is getting ready to urinate or defecate, get his attention by clapping your hands together loudly. Do not yell at your dog or use physical punishment to change his behavior. Just clap your hands to get his attention and then lead or carry him outside right away. Be kind and encouraging to your dog as you lead him outside. If you yell or act like you are angry with him, he may begin to associate going outside with punishment. Clean up messes as soon as they happen. The smell of a prior mess can prompt your dog to want to eliminate in the same place again. The best way to prevent your dog from soiling an area again is to clean up his messes right away by using an enzymatic cleaner made especially for cleaning up pet messes. Don't yell or punish your dog for going inside the house. It will not do anything to discourage him and it may even lead to more accidents by increasing his fear and anxiety. Praise your dog when he eliminates outside. Positive reinforcement is the best way to teach your dog a new behavior. Make sure that you reward your dog with lots of praise after he urinates or defecates outside. You can also reward your dog for eliminating outside by giving him treats, playtime, or a walk. Ask a neighbor or friend to take your dog outside when you will be gone for long periods. To make sure that your dog does not have to hold it for long periods of time, ask a friend or neighbor to come by and take your dog out for you if you will be gone for a long period of time. Forcing your dog to stay in the house for several hours will lead to eliminating inside the house because he will not be able to hold it for that long. If you don't know anyone who is willing or able to take your dog out for you during long periods away, consider hiring a pet sitter to stop by. Follow your veterinarian’s instructions for treating any medical issues. If your veterinarian has identified a medical condition that requires special treatment, medication, or other interventions, make sure that you follow the veterinarian's instructions. If your dog's elimination problems are related to a medical condition, they will not improve until he is cured. Contact your veterinarian immediately if your dog's condition worsens or does not improve despite treatment. Work to change your dog’s surface preference to grass. You can get your dog to stop eliminating inside the house by gradually introducing grass to the type of surface your dog prefers to use. For example, if your dog prefers to urinate on carpet, place a piece of carpet or a small rug in your back yard. Allow your dog to use the rug, but add a handful of grass to the carpet every day. When the carpet is completely covered in grass and your dog is still using it, remove the carpet. Your dog should be used to using a grassy surface and continue eliminating on the grass. Ease your dog’s fear and anxiety about going outside. Simple changes to your daily routine or to your dog's environment may help to ease some of his fears and anxieties. After you have identified the source of your dog's fear, you can take steps to try to eliminate or reduce it. For example, if your dog is frightened by the sound of passing cars when you take him out for a walk, try taking a quieter route or taking your walk at a time of day when there is less traffic. Consider getting cold and/or wet weather gear for your dog. Some dogs just don't like to go outside when the weather is bad. You can help make the experience more tolerable for your dog by getting cold and/or wet weather gear for your dog. For example, if your dog does not like the feel of his paws in the snow, consider getting some boots for your dog to wear when you take him outside. Or, if your dog doesn't like to get wet, consider getting him a raincoat to wear when it is raining. Consider getting help from a certified professional dog trainer. Some dogs have multiple reasons for why they are not housebroken or why they begin eliminating in the house after years of going outside. If your dog does not respond to your housebreaking efforts and there is no medical reason for your dog's issues, you may want to consider hiring a certified professional dog trainer to help you housebreak your adult dog. | Be aware that there are many reasons why adult dogs may eliminate inside the house. Take your dog to a veterinarian to rule out medical issues. Consider recent subtractions and/or additions your home. Determine if fear or anxiety may be causing your dog’s problems. Identify any surface preferences that your dog has. Develop a good daily routine. Encourage your dog to use the same spot every time you take him outside. Monitor your dog at all times. Stop your dog from eliminating inside the house by clapping. Clean up messes as soon as they happen. Praise your dog when he eliminates outside. Ask a neighbor or friend to take your dog outside when you will be gone for long periods. Follow your veterinarian’s instructions for treating any medical issues. Work to change your dog’s surface preference to grass. Ease your dog’s fear and anxiety about going outside. Consider getting cold and/or wet weather gear for your dog. Consider getting help from a certified professional dog trainer. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Heat-Milk-Without-Scalding | How to Heat Milk Without Scalding | To heat milk without scalding it, heat it over low heat in a small pot, stirring it continuously so it doesn't stick to the bottom and burn. Although it might take a while, try to avoid turning up the heat. If you're heating milk for a baby, put it in a sterile bottle first and then heat the bottle in a pot of water or in the microwave. | To heat milk for a recipe or for child/adult consumption, use a small stove top pot. There are proper milk saucepans which you can purchase if you wish. Heat low. If milk gets too hot, it bubbles over before you even know it has happened. Use a low heat and keep your eye on it. Heat slow. Exercise patience. Ignore the temptation to raise the heat to cook it faster. Stir it continuously to avoid solids sticking to the bottom and burning. Test the temperature. Make sure it's warm, but not so hot it will burn your mouth. Use a teaspoon to collect some milk from the pot, hold your wrist over the spoon to check the temperature, and if it isn't ridiculously hot, give it a taste. To heat milk for infant consumption, put the milk in a sterile bottle. Heat the bottle in a pot of water, the microwave (if the bottle is microwave safe), or in a bottle warmer. | To heat milk for a recipe or for child/adult consumption, use a small stove top pot. Heat low. Heat slow. Test the temperature. To heat milk for infant consumption, put the milk in a sterile bottle. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Get-Rid-of-Wasps-Naturally | How to Get Rid of Wasps Naturally | To get rid of wasps naturally, start by waiting until dusk or dark, when most of the wasps have come home to their nest for the night. Next, put 1/4 cup of dishwashing detergent or soap into the hose end sprayer on a garden hose. Then, stand close enough to the nest to soak it with the soapy water, which will paralyze and drown the wasps. Once you're sure the wasps are dead, use gloves to pull the nest down and put it in the garbage. | Set up a big bucket of water. Put it close to the wasp nest on the ground. Obtain a cloth bag with a tie at the end and a large rock. This cloth bag should be able to be tied tightly closed and should be big enough to hold the wasp nest. If you do not have a suitable cloth bag, you should pick another method to get rid of the wasps. Use a ladder to get into a position where you can reach the wasp nest with your (gloved) hands. Stand close to the wasp nest, holding the cloth bag. Be careful not to move suddenly. Put the cloth bag over the wasp nest, tying it off immediately. Pull the wasp nest down onto the ground. It should be tied tightly and sealed so that the wasps inside the nest cannot get out. Place it immediately in the bucket of water. Put a rock over the cloth bag to keep it submerged. Eventually the wasps will drown. You can also put at least of a quarter of a cup of dishwashing detergent or soap into the bucket of water to further immobilize the wasps. Obtain a garden hose and a hose end sprayer. Attach the hose end sprayer to the hose. Ensure that the hose reaches to the location of the wasp nest. Put at least a quarter of a cup of dishwashing detergent or soap into the hose end sprayer. You can use any generic soap, such as Dove, Softsoap, or Dawn. Feel free to put in as much soap as you would like into the hose end sprayer. Wait until dusk or dark. The wasps will have all come home to their nest at night. Therefore you will be able to kill more of them with the soap solution. Stand in the vicinity of the wasp’s nest. Hold the hose and point it toward the nest. Make sure that you are close enough to spray them powerfully but not so close that you're likely to be stung. Spray the nest directly with the soapy water from the hose. Use all of the solution that you have in the garden hose sprayer. The soap will paralyze the wasps, and the water will drown them. Dispose of the nest. Wait until the next morning to ensure that all of the wasps have died. Use gloves if you need to handle the nest to put it into a garbage bag. Identify all entrances and exits to an underground nest. Observe the wasps over a period of time to see if where they go into the ground. If the nest has too many entrances and exits, you may need to call an exterminator to remove it. Pour soapy water into the entrance of the nest. Use any generic hand soap or dishwashing soap mixed with water. This process will kill bees currently inside the nest. Put a large glass bowl over the entrance to the nest immediately afterward. Push the bowl a couple inches into the ground. Make sure that it is completely sealed. Wait a few weeks. Remove the bowl carefully. The wasps should have either died from the soapy water or moved to another location because of lack of food. Purchase or make a fake wasp nest. You can find fake wasp nests for sale on the internet. You can also make one yourself by using a crumpled paper bag and some twine. To make the fake wasp nest, crumple up the paper bag and wrap twine around it so that it holds a vaguely circular shape. You could also use two paper bags for a bigger nest. Hang up the fake nest with twine. Put it in the near vicinity of the wasp nest. Hang it up during the night, when the wasps are less active. Wait for the wasps to notice the fake trap and leave. Wasps are territorial. They will not want their nest to exist near another “wasp nest,” even if that nest is fake. If this fake nest is not enough to make the wasps leave, it will deter future wasps from settling in your home. Purchase a glass wasp trap. Fill it with water and a sweet lure, like lemonade. Wasps like sweet-smelling foods and foods that are high in protein. Hang it in a location where you typically see a lot of wasps. The wasps will fly into it for the bait. They will then drown in the water. Empty and refill the glass trap frequently. This will ensure there is always bait for the wasps. If you refill it very frequently, you might consider getting another glass trap. Avoid keeping certain foods inside your house. If you eat outside, avoid eating these foods in the presence of the wasps. They are attracted to the following foods especially: Sweet foods Foods high in protein Pet food Keep all trash cans closed and sealed. Make sure that there is nothing for the wasps to eat outside of your house. Put garbage cans and compost as far away from the house as possible. Put wasp-deterring plants in your yard. While flowers attract wasps, some plants keep them away. Try mint, eucalyptus, citronella, and/or wormwood. Move potted flowers away from the house. The wasps are attracted to the flowers for the pollination. Put potted plants inside the house or move them far away from the house entirely. Keep flowery scents out of your house. Do not wear flowery perfume or use flowery air fresheners. These smells attract the wasps. Do not swat or kill any wasps. A dead wasp produces pheromones that will bring more wasps and ants to the site of the dead wasp. An aggravated wasp is more likely to sting, too. Seal your house. Make sure all door, windows, and vents are tightly sealed. Wasps often enter houses through insufficiently sealed areas. | Set up a big bucket of water. Use a ladder to get into a position where you can reach the wasp nest with your (gloved) hands. Put the cloth bag over the wasp nest, tying it off immediately. Place it immediately in the bucket of water. Obtain a garden hose and a hose end sprayer. Put at least a quarter of a cup of dishwashing detergent or soap into the hose end sprayer. Wait until dusk or dark. Stand in the vicinity of the wasp’s nest. Spray the nest directly with the soapy water from the hose. Dispose of the nest. Identify all entrances and exits to an underground nest. Pour soapy water into the entrance of the nest. Put a large glass bowl over the entrance to the nest immediately afterward. Wait a few weeks. Purchase or make a fake wasp nest. Purchase a glass wasp trap. Avoid keeping certain foods inside your house. Keep all trash cans closed and sealed. Put wasp-deterring plants in your yard. Move potted flowers away from the house. Do not swat or kill any wasps. Seal your house. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Carry-a-Puppy | How to Carry a Puppy | To carry a puppy, start by bending down to the puppy's level, putting 1 hand under its bottom and the other hand under its chest, and rising slowly to a standing position. If the puppy seems agitated, speak in soothing tones and verbally praise it. Don't be alarmed if the puppy goes limp in your arms, which is actually a sign that it's relaxed. However, if the puppy won't stop wiggling, then gently bend down and release the puppy to the floor. | Bend down to the puppy’s level. Approach the puppy from the side of their body, so that you don't pose a head-to-head threat. Slowly bend your knees to the ground or lower yourself into a squat when you are near the puppy. Hold a few moments in this position with your hand extended to let the puppy sniff you a bit. If the puppy acts agitated at this point by growling or attempting to bite, you may want to wait a few minutes and then approach again. Place 1 hand under the puppy's bottom. Gently slide one hand around the rear area and under the tail of the puppy. You want the puppy's behind to rest firmly on your forearm and hand. It is important that you place both hands on the puppy at the same time. Move in a deliberate and efficient way. Place 1 hand under the puppy's chest. At the same time, slide your other hand across the puppy's chest to support its back and front body. If the puppy is squirming a bit you can also move your hand into the space between its front legs and use your forearm to help with the holding as well. If you do this, slide your other arm further around the rear to provide a counterbalance on the outside of the puppy's body. Most people prefer to carry using their dominant arm and hand to hold the front part of the puppy. This can give you better control over the head area too. Rise up slowly to a standing position. Push up from your knees at a snail's pace. Moving too fast at this point can startle the puppy. As your rise, pull your puppy's body towards you until there is no space between you. Cradling it against your body will have the effect of adding even more stability (and a sense of comfort for the puppy too). As you start to walk, keep the place slow as well and try not to multitask while holding the puppy. You don't want to run the risk of dropping it while you are distracted. Speak in soothing tones and verbally praise the puppy. It may be helpful to say positive, calming statements in a soothing tone throughout this process. Dogs and puppies often respond positively to their owner's voice, in particular. You might say, “Good girl,” or, “Be calm.” Avoid picking the puppy up by the scruff. In the past, many people would pick up a puppy by grabbing a handhold of neck-scruff and lifting. This practice has gone by the wayside as it can be potentially harmful to a puppy. Do not “shake” or “alpha roll” your puppy with their scruff to ensure submission, as you can hurt the puppy or it may bite you. This also damages the animal-human bond between the two of you. Do not pick your puppy up by the forelegs either. This offers no spine support and can contribute to a host of health problems for those breeds that suffer from genetic joint problems. Expect the puppy to go limp. As you lift and carry your puppy you may observe that it goes almost completely limp, relaxing its body against yours. This is a good thing and is part of the natural process. The puppy may assume that you are protecting it in some way and doesn't want to inhibit your progress by squirming. Release the puppy if you feel resistance. If the opposite occurs and your puppy acts agitated try to calm it for a few seconds and then gently bend back down toward the floor. When you are close to floor level slowly set the puppy down so that it stands upright. Place the puppy in a small basket for rides or walks. Many people will use a modified basket to carry their puppies as they ride on a bike or take a brief walk. Just make sure that the basket isn't too large and that the puppy can reach its head out for air and to look around. Practice with your puppy at home before taking basket-riding public. It is best if you buy a basket specifically designed to carry an animal. These will often come with some sort of safety leash or instructions regarding safe use. Put the puppy into a dog sling to keep it close to you. This is a piece of fabric that you position and wrap across your body. You then place the puppy within the fabric in front of you with its head peeking out. The way that you wrap the fabric around your body provides a tightness that will then serve to support and hold the rest of your puppy's body. These can be purchased in pet stores and look very much like slings used to hold babies. In fact, some people say that you can use baby slings to hold puppies--just be very careful to watch for head clearance. Use a dog backpack to carry the puppy on your back. A dog backpack is exactly what it sounds like, although they can come with a variety of modifications. Look for a backpack that is the most comfortable for you both. It needs to be adjustable so that you puppy won't sink down in it and lose airspace. It should also be at least partially machine washable. One drawback to using a dog backpack is that you lose visibility of your puppy while they are on your back. You can remedy this by wearing the backpack on your chest instead. Or, you can wait until your puppy is large enough to see if you turn your head around while wearing the backpack. Place the puppy into a travel carrier on long trips. If you will be carrying your puppy onto a plane, train, or other moving vehicle you may want to use a soft-sided travel carrier. This carrier will give your puppy a bit of room while providing protection at the same time. Check the airline's website for exact size requirements and restrictions regarding pet carrying cases. Avoid using makeshift carriers to prevent injuries. If you have a small puppy it may be tempting to simply place it in your purse and go, but that can be quite dangerous. Your puppy can suffocate or ingest dangerous materials while sitting in your purse. Puppies can also simply fall (or jump) out of makeshift carriers. Make time for regular bathroom breaks. If you choose to carry your puppy in a carrier, be aware that it is only a matter of time before it will need to use the restroom. You can get a general estimate as to how long your puppy can wait by adding a 1 onto their age. So, a 4-month-old puppy could probably wait for five hours, although a quicker break would be better. Fulfill the parental role by carrying your puppy. While your dog is small, it will expect its owners to take on the role of “mom.” This means giving affection and discipline, but also protection. When a puppy is picked up it often assumes that a danger is nearby and that you are taking it to a safer place. So, picking up and carrying your puppy is an expected and important part of their development. Enhance your puppy's socialization through touch and carrying. Holding your puppy is also a good way to increase its ability to tolerate and enjoy social interactions. Puppies have a window for social development that closes when they turn 14 weeks old, so it is critical that they are handled a great deal early on in their lives. Puppies that aren't socialized properly can turn into aggressive and fearful adult dogs. To get the benefit of socialization, however, you must handle the puppy gently and create a positive memory of human interaction. Getting a puppy used to being carried will make the process smoother and less stressful in the event of an emergency in which you must pick up the dog. Protect your puppy from disease. Carrying your puppy is also a way to take it into public in the early months of its life before it is fully protected with vaccinations. Many vets will suggest that you either keep your puppy indoors prior to vaccinations or your carry it everywhere. The reason for this, in part, is that viruses, such as the parvovirus, can be picked up on the ground by unsuspecting puppies. The parvovirus is often spread through contact with the feces from an infected animal, which a puppy can encounter while playing on the ground in a variety of locations. Prevent your puppy from becoming exhausted. Puppies simply don't need to be exercised the way that adult dogs do. Making a puppy walk for longer than 5 minutes or so can actually be harmful to the development of their bones. If you want to walk around the neighborhood, carry your puppy for at least part of the way. Use carrying as a puppy selection tool. It is very controversial, but some breeders and dog owners still use a puppy's reaction to various holding positions to determine their final temperament. You can often judge if a puppy is more laid back by how they respond to your carrying attempts, but forcibly cradling a dog to watch for signs of acceptance (also known as the “cradling test”) is not a good idea. It can ruin the trust between a puppy and owner and make a puppy fearful. | Bend down to the puppy’s level. Place 1 hand under the puppy's bottom. Place 1 hand under the puppy's chest. Rise up slowly to a standing position. Speak in soothing tones and verbally praise the puppy. Avoid picking the puppy up by the scruff. Expect the puppy to go limp. Release the puppy if you feel resistance. Place the puppy in a small basket for rides or walks. Put the puppy into a dog sling to keep it close to you. Use a dog backpack to carry the puppy on your back. Place the puppy into a travel carrier on long trips. Avoid using makeshift carriers to prevent injuries. Make time for regular bathroom breaks. Fulfill the parental role by carrying your puppy. Enhance your puppy's socialization through touch and carrying. Protect your puppy from disease. Prevent your puppy from becoming exhausted. Use carrying as a puppy selection tool. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Deal-With-a-Manipulative-Friend | How to Deal With a Manipulative Friend | If you're stuck in a friendship with someone who manipulates you with mind games, guilt, and intimidation to get what they want, then try your best to ignore their behavior and to not take it personally. Since manipulators like to feel important, one way to deal with them is to ignore them when they're being mean. If your friend tries to manipulate you into doing something that goes against your conscious or that you're uncomfortable with, simply tell them "No," or "I'm sorry, I can't." Remember, you don't have to give them an explanation or justify your response. If you decide that you want to confront your friend and tell them that you feel like you're being treated unfairly, expect the skilled manipulator to accuse you of being too sensitive or overreacting. In this case, do your best to stand your ground and remember that you have the right to speak up when you're being treated poorly. | Be direct. If you suspect you're being manipulated, don't get baited into a pointless charade. Give your friend a chance to clear the air by asking them what they want without mincing words. A good friend will be honest—a scheming one will try to rationalize everything they say in an effort to stay in control. Avoid playing head games. They're a waste of time, and the longer they go on, the more leverage an experienced manipulator will have to get you to do their bidding. It's usually a bad sign when someone isn't willing to reveal their true thoughts or intentions. Keep a level head. Try not to take your friend's tactics personally. Respond calmly to their backhanded jabs or efforts to influence you. Feeling like you're being manipulated is enough to make anyone upset, but if you allow things to get heated, they'll just blow up into an even bigger issue. By maintaining your poise, you'll be more prepared to handle the situation productively. Making you angry might even be part of their plan, since it affects your ability to reason. Delay a confrontation until you've had time to cool off. Learn to say “no” without feeling guilty about it. Don't give in to their self-centered demands. No matter how close you and your friend are, you're not obligated to do anything that goes against your conscience or makes you feel uncomfortable. Once you get used to saying no, you'll shift the balance of power in the relationship back toward the center. You don't have to justify yourself or offer excuses. Simply say “I'm sorry, I can't” and be firm. There may be times when a friend, even a manipulative one, needs your help. Use your best judgment to decide when you're doing the right thing and when you're getting played. Stick up for yourself. People with manipulative personalities prey on low self-esteem. Speaking up when you feel challenged will send the message that you're not going to be pushed around. As long as you have confidence, you won't feel pressured to be something that you're not. For instance, if you know someone who constantly ridicules your fashion sense to make themselves look better, you could respond by simply saying “I like the way I dress.” By going out of your way to accommodate a critical companion, you'll only be doing their bidding. Do what’s best for you. There's a big difference between taking advice and taking orders. Don't be afraid to tell meddlesome mates to butt out if they make a habit of interfering in your business. At the end of the day, you're the only one who can make decisions on your own behalf. A true friend may not always like the other people you hang out with or approve of the guy or girl you're dating, but they'll never try to tell you that you shouldn't see them. Spend some time reflecting on your personal values and limits. What are you OK with? What goes too far? This can help you establish boundaries with your friend. Point out what they're doing. Sometimes, your friend might not even be aware that they're acting selfishly. Letting them know you feel could help them see the error of their ways. Once they're aware of how their words or actions are being perceived, they'll be careful not to repeat the same mistake in the future. Be careful not to sound like you're calling their character into question. Everyone can be manipulative from time to time. Getting the issue out in the open is often the first step to resolving it. Remember that they may be defensive when you bring this up. Remain calm and friendly as you chat. Ignore their attempts to manipulate you. Like your grade school teacher always said, when someone does something mean to you, it's best to just ignore them. Since manipulators do the things they do to feel important, tuning them out is a surefire way to render them powerless. This might be the most civil approach if you have a friend whose manipulative tendencies only show themselves occasionally. Remember: other people only have as much control over you as you give them. Talk to your friend about an ongoing pattern. Work up the nerve to let them know that their behavior isn't okay. Be prepared to bring up specific examples and explain how they made you feel. There's no need for a hostile confrontation, but you should make it clear that you're not willing to play the fool any longer. Rather than making potentially offensive statements like "You're a liar," which will likely just cause them to shut down, try something more tactful, like "I think it's unfair that you twist my words when it suits you." Keep in mind that the cycle is likely to continue unless you put your foot down once and for all. Stand your ground. A skilled manipulator will try to make you seem like you're the one that's somehow at fault. They might accuse you of being jealous or insecure, or attempt to turn the tables by seeming hurt. Don't listen to them. You have a right to speak up when you're being treated unfairly. Be on the lookout for openings that your friend might use to avoid a discussion, like undermining your feelings or playing the whole thing off as a joke. If your friend says something like, "you're being too sensitive" or "you're overreacting," remember that they may be trying to manipulate you again. If you're upset, you have a right to let your friend know. Weigh the pros and cons of ending the friendship. If you've alerted your friend that you find their behavior hurtful and they refuse to take responsibility, you may have no other choice than to phase them out of your life. Breaking off a long friendship isn't easy, but you'll be better off in the long run. Just make sure it's what you really want before you decide to pull the plug. When angered, your friend might resort to childish or hurtful tactics, like complaining about you to mutual acquaintances or spreading rumors. Ignore them. This is just further proof that they were never really your friend in the first place. Resist the temptation to slander your former friend to others. Be the bigger person and let it go. Pay attention to the way they talk about others. Manipulators often use criticism as a way to make themselves look superior. If your friend never has anything good to say about the people around them (including their other friends), they typically won't hesitate put you down when you're not around. In some cases, they might even go out of their way to try to make you feel small to your face. It's rare that you'll hear a person with a manipulative personality accept responsibility for their own faults. In their minds, they can do no wrong. Staying friends with a manipulator could mean finding yourself the subject of gossip or rumors. Learn to recognize guilt trips. Beware of people who are always bringing up past events (like loaning you money or helping you through a difficult time) just to hold them over your head. This is a sure sign of entitlement—they feel like you owe them something, no matter what the circumstances are. Stop allowing yourself to be tricked into feeling guilty when you shouldn't. When you take what you're being told at face value, you'll be more eager to please in order to get back into your friend's good graces. Be up front when you suspect you're being guilted into doing something. It will help your friend see the error of their ways if they're doing it unconsciously, and let them know that you're onto them if they're doing it intentionally. A manipulative friend might try to blame you for something going wrong, even when you had nothing to do with it. If you suspect this to be the case, try not to take it personally. Ask yourself whether your friend has been reliable in the past. Think about the times that your friend has really been there for you when you needed them. If you're having trouble recalling any of these times, it may mean that your friend is a user. One-sided relationships only benefit the manipulator, which is the way they want it. Try asking your friend for a small favor. The lengths they're willing to go to help you can tell you a lot about how much they value your friendship. Determine whether your friend is actually being manipulative. Don't just assume that they're trying to control you or hurt your feelings. There's a chance that they're telling you something they genuinely think you need to hear. A manipulative person, on the other hand, will always have themselves at the center of their motives. For example, let's say you've had a bad day at work. Most friends would try to cheer you up. A manipulative friend, however, might try to one-up you by talking about how their day was worse. Look for a pattern of all take and no give in your relationship. This is a good indication that your friend is taking advantage of you whether they realize it or not. Accusing your friend without a good reason may just cause unnecessary tension. Reassure yourself that the problem is with them, not you. You might start wondering whether you're just being sensitive or overreacting, but don't second guess yourself. Part of their strategy is to make you feel like you're the one who's in the wrong. What they're doing is unfair, and you owe it to yourself not to let it continue. Manipulative people will often try to blame you or diminish your feelings. They might say "you're imagining this" or "why can't you take a joke?" Try not to let these tactics change your mind. You have a right to assert your boundaries. Making excuses for self-serving friends will only make it harder to tell when they're using you. | Be direct. Keep a level head. Learn to say “no” without feeling guilty about it. Stick up for yourself. Do what’s best for you. Point out what they're doing. Ignore their attempts to manipulate you. Talk to your friend about an ongoing pattern. Stand your ground. Weigh the pros and cons of ending the friendship. Pay attention to the way they talk about others. Learn to recognize guilt trips. Ask yourself whether your friend has been reliable in the past. Determine whether your friend is actually being manipulative. Reassure yourself that the problem is with them, not you. |
https://www.wikihow.pet/Crate-Train-Your-Dog-or-Puppy | How to Crate Train Your Dog or Puppy | To crate train your dog, start by buying a crate that's just big enough for the dog to lie down and filling it with comfortable bedding and a few chew-resistant toys. Then, put some treats in the crate and praise the dog when it goes in on its own. Also, feed the dog its meals in the crate so that it associates it with positive things. Once the dog happily enters the crate for meals, start closing the door while it eats to get it used to it. Finally, gradually increase the amount of time the door of the crate is closed. | Be mindful of the proper size. The crate should allow enough room for standing, sitting, and stretching out, but you don't want the crate to be so big that your dog has enough room to make one section of the crate the bathroom and the other the sleeping area. Buying two crates—one size for your puppy and a bigger one for your grown-up dog—is ideal. You may be able to modify a large crate for a puppy by blocking off part of it to adjust it to a puppy's size. Choose the type of crate you want to use. There are many different dog crates available for a range of prices. Some are even made to look like furniture and can be used as a side table as well as a crate. Be sure that you evaluate the benefits of each kind of dog crate before selecting one. Kennel style crates are hard plastic crates that are enclosed (except for ventilation holes) on all sides except for the front, which has a wire door. Many of these are airline compliant, so this may be a good option if you plan to travel with your pet. Wire mesh crates are made of hard wire, which can't be chewed through, and enables the dog to see out on all sides. However, wire mesh crates do not provide the “den” feel that most dogs want to experience, so they may not be the best option, even though it is often the least expensive. A puppy pen, which has wire walls but no floor or cover is another option for very young dogs, but be aware that older dogs may be able to move the pen across the floor or even flip it over, so it should only be used under supervision. Crates with hard bottoms can be made more comfortable with washable cloth bedding. Determine the crate’s ideal location. You should put the crate in a location that will remain consistent. This may be a high-traffic area where your family spends a lot of time, but you may also want to provide the dog with some rest time removed from activity, especially at night. Provide entertainment in the crate. If your dog has a favorite toy or comforter, place that in the crate in order to give the dog the idea that it is a nice place. However, make sure anything that is left in with the dog is sturdy enough not to be a choking hazard, or is resistant to chewing. You don't want the dog chewing a lump off when he is left alone, swallowing a fragment and getting a bowel obstruction. Cover a wire mesh crate. To make your dog more comfortable, cover the top and sides of a wire mesh crate. The extra darkness, plus the freedom from scrutiny, will help make the dog feel safer. Be aware, however, that any covering such as a blanket or towel can be pulled in through the sides of the crate and chewed up by a bored or anxious dog. Put a piece of plywood on top of the crate that extends about one foot beyond the sides of the crate, then draping a towel or blanket down the sides. The wood will keep the blanket out of the dog's reach. Place treats inside the crate. As part of crate training you will seed the crate with tasty treats, again so that the dog associates it as a great location where nice things happen. It is not necessary to leave food or water in the crate. Fit, healthy dogs do not need water overnight (the longest they will be left in the crate) unless the weather is very hot. Make the crate comfortable and quiet. Even if the dog's crate is in a high-traffic area during the day, it should be in a safe, quiet area of your home at night. You may also want to put it in an area that is easier to clean in case of toilet accidents, such as on a tile floor instead of a carpeted area. Use the crate at night. There will be nights when your new dog is not fully crate trained, but you need to keep him safe overnight. Play with the dog so he is tired, then put him in the crate, give him a treat to distract him, and shut the door. Then leave the room. Ideally, only re-enter and let the dog out when he is not crying. Alternatively, use a cardboard box at night. You may want to place the dog, particularly a young puppy, in a large cardboard box beside your bed for the first couple of nights, while you get busy crate training him during the day. The pitfall with this is that if he becomes too used to being at your bedside he will kick up an even bigger fuss when you move him from the bedside to the crate. Give puppies bathroom breaks at night. The maximum time you can leave a young puppy overnight is 4 hours, so set your alarm clock (ideally for every 2 - 3 hours). When your alarm goes off, take the puppy from the crate or box and pop him outside for a toilet break. Then put him back into the box or crate. Adult dogs can wait longer, but if they are not housebroken, you may want to follow this guideline even for an older dog. While doing this, do not fuss over or speak to the dog. You don't want to give him the idea that night-time is play time. Do not force a dog into a crate. Never forcibly put the dog into the crate and shut the door. Likewise, never put the dog in the crate as a punishment. Remember, the crate is not a prison where he goes when he's done something wrong, but a space where nice things happen and he goes because he feels safe there. Restrict the dog to one room at first. You want the dog to "find" the crate of his own accord so that he is more likely to return to the crate. Keeping him restricted to the room that contains the crate will make it more likely that he will find and explore the crate on his own terms. Leave the crate door open. When introducing the dog, set the crate up in the desired location and leave the door open. Ideally, put a blanket that smells of his mother and littermates into the crate, so there's a reason for him to investigate. At this stage the crate door is always open, so the dog can come and go freely. Closing the door comes later in the process, once he has accepted the crate as his den. Shower the dog with praise. When the dog investigates the crate, make a strong show of enthusiasm and praise. Each time he goes into the crate, drop what you are doing and give him lots of attention and encouragement. This will help him associate the crate with positive feelings. Seed the crate with tasty treats. You can place special treats such as cubes of cheese or pieces of chicken (depending on your dog's likes, dislikes, and allergies) inside the crate sporadically. This makes it an exciting place that is worth investigating, and the treat is its own reward. Feed a dog his meals in the crate. Be sure to leave the door open while you feed the dog. Again, the association with food makes it a great place, as far as the dog is concerned. If the dog only goes into the crate part way, put the food bowl as far in as he is comfortable with. As he gets used to eating in the crate you can put the bowl farther and farther back. Close the door to the crate once the dog is happy eating his meals there. After the dog has become accustomed to eating in the crate and goes into the crate all the way while eating, begin to close the door whilst he eats. As soon as he has finished eating, open the door. This way he gets used to being enclosed without making a big deal about it. Begin increasing the door-closed crate time. Once a dog has gotten used to the door being closed whilst he eats, start gradually increasing the amount of time the door stays closed. The eventual aim is to get him to accept having the door shut for 10 minutes after he's eaten. Do this slowly, incrementally increasing the closure time, giving him plenty of time to get used to an increased time before again increasing the time. For example, leave him in the crate for 2 minutes after eating is finished for 2-3 days before increasing the time to 5 minutes. Then remain at 5 minutes for 2-3 days before increasing the time to 7 minutes. If the dog starts to whine you have increased the time too quickly. Next time leave it shut a shorter time. Always remember only to let a dog out of his crate when he is not crying; otherwise, he will learn that crying opens the door. Use a crate command. At the same time as the dog gets used to the crate, it helps to give a command that the pet associates with going into the crate. In time, you will use this to encourage him to go in when you want him to. Choose a command such as "Crate", or "Kennel" and use a hand gesture indicating the crate. When the pup goes into the crate, say the command. At meal times, use the command and then put the food inside. Start saying the command on its own, and when the dog goes to the crate, drop a treat inside to reward him. Be home. It is important that the dog does not immediately associate his crate with being alone or abandoned. Therefore, you should not use the crate when you're away from the house until you have built up to a longer period of time. Encourage your dog to enter her crate. You may want to give her a treat when she enters. Close the door and sit with him for a few minutes. Open the door when she's not crying. Repeat the crating regularly. As your dog gets used to it, instead of staying with her all the time, get up and briefly leave the room. Return, sit by the crate, wait a few minutes then let her out. Again, do not let her out while she is crying. Increase the amount of time that you spend out of sight. Repeat the crating and leaving process several times each day, whilst building up the amount of time that you spend out of the room before returning to release him. If the dog whines, you have pushed too far too fast, and you should cut back a little next time. Remember, only release the dog when she is quiet, so that you reward the good behavior, rather than teaching her that whining gets her what she wants. Slowly and incrementally increase the time until you have built up to about 30 minutes of content crate time. Start leaving the house. When your dog feels comfortable being alone in the crate for 30 minutes, you can start leaving him there while you leave the house for short periods of time. As time goes on, you can leave your dog for longer and longer. While there is no set of rules about how long to leave a dog in a crate, here is a general set of guidelines: 9 to 10 weeks - 30 to 60 minutes 11 to 14 weeks - 1 to 3 hours 15 to 16 weeks - 3 to 4 hours 17+ weeks - 4 hours Note that with the exception of nighttime, you should never crate your dog for longer than 4 hours at a time. Vary when you put your dog in the crate. Crate him anytime between 20 and 5 minutes before you leave. Simply put him in the crate using your usual method and give him a treat. Then, leave quietly when you're ready. Do not make a big deal about leaving or returning. Ignore the dog in the crate at least five minutes before you are due to leave and slip away quietly. On your return, ignore him for several minutes before letting him out of the crate (when he is quiet). Immediately take the dog outside. This will allow your dog to relieve himself. Once he has gone to the bathroom, feel free to praise him excessively. Not only does this help mitigate accidents in your house in the moment, but it will also reinforce the idea to your dog that going to the bathroom outside results in praise. Start as soon as possible. Using a crate is very effective for teaching bowel and bladder control. However, if you're planning on crate training to housebreak, you should start this process as soon as you bring your new puppy home. This will mitigate the amount of accidents your puppy has before he is completely comfortable in his crate. Acclimate your puppy to her crate (see above). Although you are not training your puppy to be comfortable alone necessarily, you do want them to feel as though the crate is their home. This is the feeling that will prevent your puppy from going to the bathroom inside the crate. Confine the puppy to the crate when you are home. Once your puppy is extremely comfortable with the crate, you can confine her there while you are in the room. Every 20 minutes or so, take your puppy outside. Give her time to go to the bathroom. If she doesn't use the bathroom outside, return her to the crate. If she does, immediately reward the puppy with extreme praise, treats, love, play, and perhaps the ability to run free about your house for a little while. If you choose to let your puppy run around the house, take him back outside in 20 minutes to prevent accidents. Keep a puppy journal. While it sounds silly, keeping a journal of the time that your puppy actually goes to the bathroom will help you out. Assuming you have a regular feeding schedule for your puppy, he'll also have a regular bathroom schedule. Once you know the times at which he actually goes to the bathroom, you can begin taking her out at those times rather than every 20-30 minutes. When the timing is completely consistent, you can let your puppy run supervised around your house for most of the day. Continue to praise your puppy. Be sure to continue extended praise every time your puppy goes to the bathroom outside. Eventually, your puppy will understand that it is appropriate to use the bathroom outside and she will begin waiting for you to take her outside to eliminate. Reduce the amount of time your puppy stays in the crate. As your puppy continues to understand that she should use the bathroom outside and not inside, you can work towards eliminating the crate altogether and just take your puppy outside regularly. Clean up mistakes. Never punish your puppy for having an accident in the house. Clean it up using a non-ammonia based spray and try again. Supervise your puppy at all times, and give him plenty of opportunities to use the bathroom outdoors. | Be mindful of the proper size. Choose the type of crate you want to use. Determine the crate’s ideal location. Provide entertainment in the crate. Cover a wire mesh crate. Place treats inside the crate. Make the crate comfortable and quiet. Use the crate at night. Give puppies bathroom breaks at night. Do not force a dog into a crate. Restrict the dog to one room at first. Leave the crate door open. Shower the dog with praise. Seed the crate with tasty treats. Feed a dog his meals in the crate. Close the door to the crate once the dog is happy eating his meals there. Begin increasing the door-closed crate time. Use a crate command. Be home. Encourage your dog to enter her crate. Repeat the crating regularly. Increase the amount of time that you spend out of sight. Start leaving the house. Vary when you put your dog in the crate. Do not make a big deal about leaving or returning. Immediately take the dog outside. Start as soon as possible. Acclimate your puppy to her crate (see above). Confine the puppy to the crate when you are home. Keep a puppy journal. Continue to praise your puppy. Reduce the amount of time your puppy stays in the crate. Clean up mistakes. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Care-for-Peruvian-Guinea-Pigs | How to Care for Peruvian Guinea Pigs | To care for Peruvian guinea pigs, keep them in a roomy cage and maintain a consistent temperature between 65–75 °F, since they're vulnerable to high temperatures. Remember to clean their water dropper every day and refill it with fresh water. Then, refill the food dishes daily and clean them out once a week. It's also important to replace soiled substrate daily to maintain sanitary conditions for your pigs. Since Peruvians are unable to groom themselves, brush out their fur at least twice a week and trim it whenever it grows past their little feet! | Get the right size cage. If you own just 1 pig, a cage measuring 40 by 20 by 20 inches (102 by 51 by 51 cm) should do the trick. Add even more space if you decide to place another pig in this same cage. Getting too small of a cage can cause all sorts of problems, including territorial disputes over space. The cage should be a wire with a plastic bottom. At the bottom of the cage, add a clean substrate material, such as small pieces of recycled newspaper. Wood shaving is often used for other types of guinea pigs, but the pieces will stick in a Peruvian pig's hair and create matted areas. Include safe toys. Throw in a few hard cat toys with bells or squeaky parts inside. Or, cut down a PVC pipe to around 4 inches (10 cm) and place it within the cage as a tunnel. Wood blocks and platforms are also great enrichment tools. When you choose a toy always consider its potential hazards. Can it be chewed apart? Are there any sharp or breakable pieces? Keep them cool. Due to their mass of hair, Peruvian guinea pigs are very vulnerable to heat. It's best to keep your home environment at a consistent temperature between 65–75 °F (18–24 °C). Move your pig's cage away from any drafts, fans, or vents. If you know that your home is hot, you can try various cooling methods including freezing water bottles and letting your pig lie down next to them. Put 2 pigs together. Peruvian guinea pigs are naturally social creatures and usually enjoy living with a cage mate. However, you'll need to put some thought into these pairings. For example, if you add in a male with a female, then you may end up with a breeding pair. Pairing up a younger guinea pig with an older one usually works well, as do same-sex pairings. It's also a good idea to observe the pigs' personalities before mixing them. Two dominant animals will often continually fight, whereas a dominant-submissive pair will establish a hierarchy and get along nicely. Expect some rounds of fighting to break out, especially if one of the pigs is an adolescent aged between 3-5 months. If the fighting is ongoing or results in injury, it's probably best to separate them. Check the water dropper and food dishes every day. Take down the sipper bottle daily, rinse it out, and replace the water inside. Clean the bottle weekly using a solution of 10% bleach and 90% water. As for the food bowl, rinse it off at least once weekly with the above bleach solution. Also, remove uneaten food at the end of each day and wipe it down with a clean towel. To keep everything clean, it helps to have at least 2 water bottles and multiple food dishes. Your Peruvian guinea pig will likely drink less water if it has access to lots of fresh veggies. Clean the cage daily. At a minimum, you should go into the cage and replace the soiled substrate (bedding) with fresh materials each day. Some owners also prefer to scrub down the entire cage daily with a 10-1 bleach and water mixture. If you do this, make sure to let the cage dry before bringing your pig back in. Keeping a clean cage will help to avoid several possible health problems. Give your pig a balanced diet. Provide your pig with fresh green hay at all times. You can also give your pig fresh grass, as long as it is pesticide-free. Give your pig a variety of fresh fruits and vegetables daily as well. You can supplement the pig's diet with pellets but give it no more than it can eat in 20 minutes per day. Pellets are high in calories and low in fiber, which can lead to an overweight pig. Speak to your vet about how to adjust your pig's diet, if necessary. Avoid muesli mix pellets, as the pig may eat only certain parts of the mix that could be high in calcium and lead to teeth problems. Only buy pellets that are specifically made for guinea pigs. Also, check that the “milled date” on the package is recent, or the vitamins contained inside may have degraded. Apples, carrots, celery, bananas, and cabbage are all examples of guinea pig friendly fresh foods. Pick them up carefully. Approach your pig from the front and crouch down to their level. Place one hand under your pig's chest and another around and under its hindquarters. Establish that you have a good grip and then slowly lift upwards. Cradle your pig to your chest for even more security. Never pick up your pig by its shoulders or limbs, as this could lead to an injury. Repeat this process in reverse when you need to set your pig back down. The key is to move slowly and keep both of your hands on it. Provide at least 1 cage-free hour each day. Peruvian guinea pigs are naturally curious creatures that can grow extremely bored and depressed if kept in a cage all day and night. Use cardboard to block off an interior or outside space at least once a day and let your pig roam about. It's not necessary to play with your pig during outside time, but they'll likely appreciate it if you do. Brush its hair regularly. Unlike other guinea pigs, Peruvians are unable to groom themselves. Get a soft brush or fine-tooth comb and work through your pet's hair from base to tip. Brush in the direction of the hair growth, usually parting down the back. Repeat this process at least twice a week. As you brush, feel for matted areas and work these out by hand or cut them off with shears. If a pig's hair stays matted it can become painful and even lead to a skin infection. If your guinea pig no longer has free range of motion in its legs, then a hair mat may be to blame. Expect your pig to move around a bit during the first few grooming sessions. After a while, they will settle down and get used to the routine. Trim your Peruvian pig's hair. When your guinea pig's hair grows past its feet and hits the floor, then it's time for a haircut. Get a pair of sharp hair shears and place a single lock of hair between your second and third fingers. Trim the ends off and repeat. Take your time and never cut too close to your pig's skin or you may nick it. Place a bit of food before your pig, like a sliced carrot. This should keep it distracted while you trim. Breeders of Peruvian guinea pigs often style their pigs' hair and then secure it with tissue and rubber bands. This keeps the style intact for longer. Bathe your pig every 3 months at a minimum. Get a shallow plastic dish and fill it up with lukewarm water. Place your pig into the container, making sure that its feet touch the bottom. Gently apply mild baby shampoo and work it into the hair. Rinse your pig off and dry it with a fluffy towel. You'll likely want to wipe off your guinea pig's hindquarters regularly in between baths, to keep the area from getting soiled. It's best to bathe your guinea pig on a low surface, just in case it escapes the water dish. You can expect your pig to squirm a bit during baths, but speaking softly and rubbing gently can calm it down. Be aware that most other breeds of guinea pigs are not regularly bathed. Peruvians are different because of their long hair. Avoid blow-drying your guinea pig after a bath, as this can scare your pet. Instead, just use a combination of toweling and air drying. | Get the right size cage. Include safe toys. Keep them cool. Put 2 pigs together. Check the water dropper and food dishes every day. Clean the cage daily. Give your pig a balanced diet. Pick them up carefully. Provide at least 1 cage-free hour each day. Brush its hair regularly. Trim your Peruvian pig's hair. Bathe your pig every 3 months at a minimum. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Keep-the-Upstairs-of-Your-Air-Conditioned-Home-Cooler | How to Keep the Upstairs of Your Air Conditioned Home Cooler | To keep the upstairs of your air conditioned home cooler, close the shades and curtains, and keep the lights turned off as much as possible. If you're using high-wattage bulbs, consider switching to LED or other energy-saving bulbs that give off less heat. Additionally, use floor fans to help circulate the air and prevent it from settling near the floor. Alternatively, create an instant source of cold air by placing a bowl of ice cubes in front of the fan. | Close the shades and drapes. Heat gets into the house from sunlight through the windows. Pulling down shades and drawing drapes helps block the sunlight. Think of the room like your car parked in a hot parking lot – forever. If you're interested, buy some quality heat-blocking shades for the windows. Wood shades or thicker, light-colored drapes will do the trick. They may not look very good, so add a curtain on top of the shades to cover them up if desired. Turn off the lights. If you're still rocking old school, high-wattage light bulbs, you've probably noticed how easily they heat up. And while it may seem insignificant, their power really does add up, especially if you have several. Turn them off and keep them off as much as possible. Desperately need lights? Look into energy-saving, dimmer bulbs that don't give off as much heat (and are better for the environment). LED lights are getting cheaper and cheaper, too. Open upstairs registers and close downstairs registers. Opening upstairs cold air supply registers fully and all but closing downstairs air supply registers helps direct the cold air upstairs. You are literally rerouting the circulation of the air pushed out through your air conditioner. Be careful not to fully close all downstairs air supply registers. Enough air must go through the air conditioner in order to work efficiently. Move furniture from registers. Rearrange furniture so that air supply registers are fully uncovered. Also remove blockages from air returns in all rooms. This ensures that good air circulation occurs in the upper floor. Take these items and move them to open walls. By placing things like bookshelves or tapestries against the walls, you can help keep cool from escaping. Use floor fans. Floor fans help circulate air in a room, especially if placed well. They help prevent the cold air from settling near the floor of the upstairs rooms, whisking it up in an airy cycle. Place it in the corner where it can move the air across the room via an unobstructed path (tidy up a bit if need be). Then it can mix all the air, lowering the temperature. If you're in a spot, put a bowl of ice cubes in front of the fan and then let it blow. Immediate arctic wind, ready for deliver. Get rid of the clutter. With fewer objects in the room, air is allowed to flow, not get stale and stagnant, and get cooler. Tidy up the room, getting as much surface area in the open as possible. And now you can place your fan in the best possible place in the room, circulating the air around and around. A clear space can feel several degrees cooler. Add attic insulation. Attics need R30 insulation (at least) to keep heat out in summer and heat indoors in winter. In the long run, you can save money in both seasons by insulating your attic. Just make sure you get the right insulation; if it is not rated high enough or not thick enough it can allow the summer heat down into the house. If you have an attic, buy half inch plywood and lay it in between the trusses over the insulation. It will give you a walking/storage surface as well as enhancing your ability to block heat transfer. Insulation alone doesn't stop the heat from going into your house; it only delays the transfer until the attic cools at night when the heat flow slows down. Fix your windows. Leaking windows and single pane glass let cold out and heat in. Consider Low E glass for window replacements and double or even triple-paned windows.. This will keep you cooler in summer by not letting the cold air warm up and warmer in the summer by not letting the hot air "leak" out. If there are any cracks or space between the windows and the walls, that's hot and cool air escaping like sands through an hourglass. Even if you don't upgrade your glass, make sure to cover any structural spots that need taken care of. Do some energy-conscious redecorating. There are a number of things you can do to your house that can keep it cool. Consider painting walls white or another really light color as light doesn't absorb a lot of heat like darker colors do. This goes for your roof, too – though a white roof may seem a little less than fashionable. You could also consider adding awnings or even extending the roof line so that the sun, in the summer, is blocked by the roof and is prevented from entering the windows. Add duct or ceiling fans. If the air conditioner is big enough to cool the whole house then air circulation is most likely the trouble. Hot air rises and cold air sinks. By replacing the register covers with register/fan units more cold air is forced out of the upstairs ducts. These units can be purchased at large hardware stores or home-centers. Try adding a couple of ceiling fans in the upstairs rooms or over a large open 2 story room such as a loft. Many fans have a switch that controls how it works – one blows air down and the other sucks air up. You want the fan to suck the cold air up and spread it over the house again. Replace furnace filters. Blocked filters prevent cold air circulation. Replace filters at least every three months to keep them working at 100%. Go into your basement and you'll find the filter on the bottom of the filter casing. Make sure the new filter you bought fits your HVAC unit. You can do this yourself. All you need to do is take out the old filter and place in the new one, making sure the arrows on the sides are pointing in the right direction (they're to indicate airflow. It's a job that takes a whole 30 seconds. If applicable, clean your outdoor AC unit. Rinse the outside unit with a garden hose (gently) to remove dirt from the coils. Remove leaves and debris from inside the fan area. The unit MUST be off to do this. It's possible gunk and grime is keeping your air conditioner from running at full potential. Make sure soffit vents are working and not blocked. A hot attic makes for a hot upstairs. Add a ridge vent or power vents if needed to bring down the attic temperature. If you're not sure how they're operating, don't hesitate to call in a professional. Soffit vents aren't only for your comfort; they're to lengthen the lifespan of your roof. So will it could be an expense now, it could save you thousands in the long run (a roof that constantly overheats is not a long-lasting roof). Get a pressure check. The air conditioner may leak small amounts of refrigerant over time. A heating and cooling contractor can check and refill the air conditioner, if needed, to maximize cooling. If you're quite handy, you can do this yourself. Take a look at wikiHow's Charge a Home Air Conditioner for more information. Call a professional. Many heating and cooling contractors will do a survey and make recommendations for a small fee. Always get more than one opinion and work with reputable professionals that have references. Check the Better Business Bureau (US) before working with anyone as this can be an expensive endeavor that you want to get done right. Air conditioners should be placed close to the ceiling as cold air sinks and hot air rises. It needs to be placed in a well ventilated place to ensure maximum results – if this does not describe your air conditioner, consider getting it moved for more efficient results. | Close the shades and drapes. Turn off the lights. Open upstairs registers and close downstairs registers. Move furniture from registers. Use floor fans. Get rid of the clutter. Add attic insulation. Fix your windows. Do some energy-conscious redecorating. Add duct or ceiling fans. Replace furnace filters. If applicable, clean your outdoor AC unit. Make sure soffit vents are working and not blocked. Get a pressure check. Call a professional. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Treat-Epstein-Barr-Virus-(EBV) | How to Treat Epstein Barr Virus (EBV) | EBV is often symptomless and should go away within a few months, so treatment isn't usually necessary. However, if you have a fever or a swollen throat, you can take anti-inflammatories, like ibuprofen and naproxen, to reduce your discomfort. If your spleen feels inflamed, try to avoid physical activity and get plenty of rest. If your EBV doesn't go away after a few months, you should contact your doctor. | Maintain a healthy immune system. For any type of infection (viral, bacterial or fungal), true prevention depends on a healthy and strong immune response. Your immune system consists of specialized white blood cells that search for and attempt to destroy potential pathogens such as EBV, but when the system is weakened, harmful microorganisms grow and spread virtually unchecked. As such, focusing on ways to keep your immune system strong and functioning properly is a logical and natural approach to preventing EBV and virtually all other infectious diseases. Getting more sleep (or better quality sleep), eating more fresh fruit and veggies, practicing good hygiene, drinking lots of purified water, and regular cardiovascular exercise are all proven ways to keep your immune system function the way it was designed to. Your immune system will also benefit from cutting down on refined sugars (soda pop, candy, ice cream, most baked goods), reducing your alcohol consumption, and refraining from smoking tobacco products. In addition to poor lifestyle choices, people's immune systems can be compromised by severe stress, debilitating diseases (cancer, diabetes, other infections), and certain medical procedures or prescriptions (surgery, chemotherapy, radiation, steroids, over-medicating). Get plenty of vitamin C. Although there is not much research investigating the effects of vitamin C on viruses not associated with causing the common cold, it's clear that ascorbic acid (vitamin C) has potent antiviral and immune boosting properties, both of which are helpful for preventing or minimizing the effects of EBV infections. More specifically, vitamin C stimulates the production and activity of specialized white blood cells, which seek out and destroy viruses. Recommended daily intake of vitamin C ranges from 75 mg to 125 mg (depending on gender and whether or not you smoke), but there's growing concern within healthcare circles that amount may not always be enough for optimum health and immune function. To combat infections, consider taking at least 1,000 mg daily in two divided doses. Excellent natural sources of vitamin C include citrus fruits, kiwis, strawberries, tomatoes, and broccoli. Consider immune boosting supplements. In addition to vitamin C, there are many other vitamins, minerals, and herbal preparations that display antiviral and immune boosting properties. Unfortunately, none of them have been rigorously studied in relation to preventing or combating EBV. High-quality scientific research is expensive and natural or "alternative" therapies for diseases and conditions are typically not high on the list of mainstream medicine to investigate. Furthermore, EBV is unusual in that it likes to hide inside B cells – a type of white blood cell that is part of the immune response. As such, EBV is difficult to eradicate simply by boosting immunity, but it's certainly worth a try. Other immune boosting supplements include vitamins A and D, zinc, selenium, echinacea, olive leaf extract, and astragalus root. Vitamin D3 is produced in your skin in response to intense summer sunshine and a necessary part of a healthy immune system — consider supplementing with D3 during winter months or year-round if you are not exposed to at least 15 minutes of direct sunshine every day. Olive leaf extract is a strong antiviral made from olive trees and it may work synergistically with vitamin C. Be careful who you kiss. The vast majority of teenagers and adults (not just in the U.S., but other countries too) have been infected with EBV at some stage. Some fight it off effectively with no symptoms, some contract it and have mild symptoms, and some are ill for weeks or months. As such, not kissing or having sexual contact with anyone is a great way to prevent EBV and other viral infections, but it's not very realistic or practical advice. Instead, avoid romantically kissing people who appear to be ill, especially if they have a sore throat, swollen lymph nodes, and are always tired or fatigued. However, keep in mind that EBV can spread without the presence of any obvious symptoms. Although nicknamed the "kissing disease," EBV infection can also spread via saliva from sharing beverages and utensils, as well as via other body fluids during sexual relations. While most Americans have been infected with EBV, mononucleosis appears more common in Caucasian than in African-American populations. Other risk factors for EBV infection include being female, living in tropical climates, and being sexually active. Treat symptoms if they are significant. There is no standard medical treatment for EBV because it often doesn't cause symptoms, and even mononucleosis is self-limiting and tends to go away within a few months. However, if your symptoms are causing significant discomfort, then acetaminophen (Tylenol) and anti-inflammatories (ibuprofen, naproxen) can be used to treat high fevers, inflamed lymph nodes and throat pain. For severe throat swelling, your doctor may prescribe a short course of steroidal-type drugs. Bed rest isn't often recommended, although some people with mononucleosis often feel exhausted. EBV leads to mononucleosis in about 1/3 to 1/2 of teenagers and adults infected with the virus — common symptoms include fever, sore throat, swollen lymph glands and severe fatigue. Keep in mind that many over-the-counter medications for adults should not be given to children (aspirin in particular). In up to 1/2 of mononucleosis cases the spleen becomes swollen due to filtering all the abnormal blood cells out of the blood. Avoid excessive activity and any trauma to the abdomen if your spleen is inflamed (the area below your heart). Rare complications related to EBV include brain inflammation (encephalitis or meningitis), lymphoma, and some other cancers. Consider colloidal silver. Colloidal silver is a liquid preparation containing small atomic clusters of electrically charged silver. The medical literature shows numerous viruses successfully treated with silver solutions, but efficacy depends on size (particles should be less than 10nm in diameter) and purity (no salts or protein in the solution). Subnanometer-sized silver particles become highly electrically charged and can destroy the most rapidly mutating viral pathogens. However, it's unknown if and how silver particles specifically destroy EBV, so more research is currently needed before any definitive recommendations can be made. Silver solutions are generally considered non-toxic even in high concentrations, but protein-based solutions increase risk of argyria — discoloration due to the silver compounds getting trapped within the skin. Colloidal silver products are widely available in health and supplements stores. Consult with your doctor if your infection is chronic. If your EBV infection or mononucleosis persists for many months, then ask your doctor about the effectiveness of antivirals or other potent medications. Chronic EBV infection is not common, but when it persists for many months it has a significantly negative impact on the immune system and quality of life. Anecdotal reports suggest that antiviral therapy (acyclovir, ganciclovir, vidarabine, foscarnet) might be effective in some cases of chronic EBV infection. However, keep in mind that antiviral therapy is generally ineffective for less serious cases of the disease. In addition, immunosuppressive agents (corticosteroids, cyclosporine) can be used to temporarily reduce symptoms in patients with chronic EBV infection. Drugs that suppress immunity can also inhibit the immune response to EBV and may allow virus-infected cells to proliferate further, so ask your doctor if the risk is worth it. Common side effects from taking antivirals include skin rash, stomach upset, diarrhea, fatigue, joint pain, headache, and dizziness. There have been substantial efforts to develop vaccines against EBV, but none are currently effective. | Maintain a healthy immune system. Get plenty of vitamin C. Consider immune boosting supplements. Be careful who you kiss. Treat symptoms if they are significant. Consider colloidal silver. Consult with your doctor if your infection is chronic. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Soften-Towels | How to Soften Towels | To soften towels, wash them in warm or hot water to reduce any soapy residue crusting up the fabric. You can also soak towels in fabric softener and hot water for 1 hour before washing them as usual. Another way to soften towels is to machine wash them with ½ cup of vinegar instead of soap in the first rinse cycle to remove oils and caked-on dirt. Moreover, mixing ½ cup of baking soda into your regular detergent can also wash away any chemicals that might be making your towels scratchy. | Wash towels with warm or hot water. Warmer water absorbs detergent better, which means that less soap residue is left caked onto the fabric. Furthermore, hot water can help dissolve oils that are left over from hygiene products and skin. Be aware that brightly-colored towels may fade with repeated hot-water washing. If you don't care about fading, then proceed to wash with hot water. If you want to retain the color, then wash with cold water and try other towel-softening techniques. Soak towels in fabric softener. Mix one cup fabric softener with as much hot water as you need to submerge your towels. Soak the towels in the softener solution for at least an hour, until the softener has had time to thoroughly permeate the fabric. Replace detergent and fabric softener with vinegar. Most commercial fabric softeners contain silicon, which can coat the surface of your towels and limit their absorptive properties. Use the extra rinse cycle when you machine-wash your towels, and use a half-cup of white vinegar instead of soap in the first cycle. The vinegar will remove the oils and soapy residue that toughen up your towel, making it fluffier and more absorbent. Use a light soap (or just water) in the second rinse cycle to rinse out the smell of vinegar but retain the soft finish. Use baking soda. Try mixing half a cup of baking soda into your regular detergent. This should help wash away any oils, dirt, or chemicals that are making your towel stiff or scratchy. This is also great for removing musty odors – the sort of stink that develops when a towel has been left damp for a while. Try air-drying your towels outside. Ideally, do this on a cool day with a light breeze. Once the towel is dry, knead it with your hands as though it is a piece of dough or a hunk of meat. This should help to loosen up the stiffness. Tumble-dry on a low heat. High heat will certainly make your towels fluffier, but it may also damage the integrity of the fabric. You can also alternate between air drying and high-heat tumble-drying. Try partially drying towels on the line, then finishing them up in the dryer for extra warmth and fluff. After drying, put the towel in for another round – but select the wrinkle-free option, if available. This will fluff the towel, which should help soften the fabric. Shake out your towels. Give each towel a thorough shake when it comes out of the wash, and also when it comes out of the dryer. This should help keep the fabric fluffy. Add dryer balls or tennis balls to the load. When you tumble-dry your towels, pop a few clean tennis balls or dryer balls into the mix before closing the door. As the dry cycle rumbles, the balls will bounce around and pummel your towels. This should work the fibers and help soften up the stiff bits. Use less detergent. Laundry soap is highly concentrated, and a little bit goes a long way. If you use too much, the residue can congeal on the fabric, making the fibers stiff and scratchy. Try using less detergent than you normally would. Too much detergent residue can also foster mold and bacterial growth – especially if a towel stays damp for a while. Do not overfill your washing machine. If the chamber is too full, it might be keeping your towels from getting a full rinse. This can leave the fabric stiff with residue from minerals, dirt, and detergent. The same goes for drying! Be patient and run multiple loads to avoid overcrowding. Look out for hard water. If your home's water supply is "hard" and full of minerals, then the faucet or washing machine might be leaving chalky deposits in your towels. Consider buying a mineral filter to soften up your water supply, or washing your towels only with off-grid water. | Wash towels with warm or hot water. Soak towels in fabric softener. Replace detergent and fabric softener with vinegar. Use baking soda. Try air-drying your towels outside. Tumble-dry on a low heat. Shake out your towels. Add dryer balls or tennis balls to the load. Use less detergent. Do not overfill your washing machine. Look out for hard water. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Calculate-Volume-in-Litres | How to Calculate Volume in Litres | To calculate volume in litres, first convert the dimensions of the object into centimeters. Then, use the volume formula to calculate the volume of a shape. For example, to calculate the volume of a cube, you would use Volume = length times width times height, and your answer will be in cubic centimeters. Convert the answer to litres by dividing the number by 1,000 because there are 1000 cubic centimeters in 1 liter. | Convert the dimensions to centimeters. If the dimensions are given in meters, inches, feet, or some other unit of measurement, convert each dimension to centimeters (cm) before calculating the volume. This will make it easier to convert to liters. Always double-check that the dimensions of the shape you're working with have the same unit before you calculate the volume. Find the volume of the shape. How you find the volume will depend on the shape of the three-dimensional object you are measuring, since the volume of each type of shape is calculated differently. To find the volume of a cube, you can use the formula Volume = Length × Width × Height {\displaystyle {\text{Volume}}={\text{Length}}\times {\text{Width}}\times {\text{Height}}}. The volume of a three-dimensional shape will be in cubic units, such as cubic centimeters ( c m 3 {\displaystyle cm^{3}} ). For instance, if a fish tank is 40.64 cm long, 25.4 cm wide, and 20.32 tall you would calculate the volume by multiplying these dimensions together: Volume = Length × Width × Height {\displaystyle {\text{Volume}}={\text{Length}}\times {\text{Width}}\times {\text{Height}}} Volume = 40.64 × 25.4 × 20.32 {\displaystyle {\text{Volume}}=40.64\times 25.4\times 20.32} Volume = 20 , 975 c m 3 {\displaystyle {\text{Volume}}=20,975cm^{3}} To find the volume of a cylinder, start by finding the height of the cylinder. Then, find the radius of the circle at the top or bottom. Next, find the area of the circle, which you can find with the formula π r 2 {\displaystyle r^{2}} , where r is the radius. Finally, multiply the area of the circle by the height of the cylinder to find the volume. Convert cubic centimeters to liters. To do this, use the conversion rate 1 liter = 1 , 000 c m 3 {\displaystyle 1\;{\text{liter}}=1,000cm^{3}}. Dividing the volume (in cubic centimeters) of the shape by 1,000 will give you the volume in liters (L). If the volume of the fish tank, in cubic centimeters, is 20,975, to find the volume in liters, calculate 20 , 975 ÷ 1 , 000 = 20.975 {\displaystyle 20,975\div 1,000=20.975}. So, a fish tank that is 40.64 cm long, 25.4 cm wide, and 20.32 tall has a volume of 20.975 L. Convert milliliters to liters. There are 1,000 milliliters (mL) in 1 liter (L). So, to convert milliliters to liters, you would divide the number of milliliters by 1,000. If the volume of a carton of almond milk is 1,890 mL, to convert to liters, you would calculate 1 , 890 m L ÷ 1 , 000 = 1.89 L {\displaystyle 1,890mL\div 1,000=1.89L}. Convert centiliters to liters. There are 100 centiliters (cL) in 1 liter. So, to convert centiliters to liters, you would divide the number of centiliters by 100. If a the volume of a carton of almond milk is 189 cL, to convert to liters, you would calculate 189 c L ÷ 100 = 1.89 L {\displaystyle 189cL\div 100=1.89L}. Convert deciliters to liters. There are 10 deciliters (dL) in 1 liter. So, to convert deciliters to liters, you would divide the number of deciliters by 10. If a the volume of a carton of almond milk is 18.9 dL, to convert to liters, you would calculate 18.9 d L ÷ 10 = 1.89 L {\displaystyle 18.9dL\div 10=1.89L}. Convert kiloliters to liters. There are 1000 liters in 1 kiloliter (kl). So, to convert kiloliters to liters, you would multiply the number of kiloliters by 1,000. If the volume of a kiddie pool is 240 kl, to convert to liters, you would calculate 240 k l × 1000 = 240 , 000 L {\displaystyle 240kl\times 1000=240,000L}. Convert hectoliters to liters. There are 100 liters in 1 hectoliter (hl). So, to convert hectoliters to liters, you would multiply the number of hectoliters by 100. If the volume of a kiddie pool is 2,400 hl, to convert to liters, you would calculate 2 , 400 h l × 100 = 240 , 000 L {\displaystyle 2,400hl\times 100=240,000L}. Convert decaliters to liters. There are 10 liters in 1 decaliters (dal). So, to convert decaliters to liters, you would multiply the number of decaliters by 10. If the volume of a kiddie pool is 24,000 dal, to convert to liters, you would calculate 24 , 000 d a l × 10 = 240 , 000 L {\displaystyle 24,000dal\times 10=240,000L}. Convert fluid ounces to liters. There are 33.81 fluid ounces (fl oz) in 1 liter. So, to convert fluid ounces to liters, you would divide the number of fluid ounces by 33.81. If a carton of almond milk is 128 fl oz, to convert to liters, you would calculate 128 f l o z ÷ 33.81 = 3.786 L {\displaystyle 128fl\;oz\div 33.81=3.786L}. Convert pints to liters. There are 2.113 fluid pints (fl pt) in 1 liter. So, to convert fluid pints to liters, you would divide the number of fluid pints by 2.113. If a pitcher has a capacity of 8 fl pt, to convert to liters, you would calculate 8 f l p t ÷ 2.113 = 3.786 L {\displaystyle 8fl\;pt\div 2.113=3.786L}. Convert quarts to liters. There are 1.057 quarts (qt) in 1 liter. So, to convert quarts to liters, you would divide the number quarts of by 1.057. If a pitcher has a capacity of 4 quarts, to convert to liters, you would calculate 4 q t ÷ 1.057 = 3.784 L {\displaystyle 4qt\div 1.057=3.784L}. Convert gallons to liters. There are 3.7854 liters in 1 gallon (gal). So, to convert gallons to liters, you would multiply the number gallons of by 3.7854. If a fish tank has a volume of 120 gallons, to convert to liters, you would calculate 120 g a l × 3.7854 = 454.248 L {\displaystyle 120gal\times 3.7854=454.248L}. | Convert the dimensions to centimeters. Find the volume of the shape. Convert cubic centimeters to liters. Convert milliliters to liters. Convert centiliters to liters. Convert deciliters to liters. Convert kiloliters to liters. Convert hectoliters to liters. Convert decaliters to liters. Convert fluid ounces to liters. Convert pints to liters. Convert quarts to liters. Convert gallons to liters. |
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