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sequence | sentence
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] | Podem ser doces ou salgadas e quebram um baita galho na hora que a fome aperta. As panquecas são receitas fáceis e versáteis —além de poderem ser recheadas ou não, uma colherzinha de açúcar as transformam em uma boa opção para o café da manhã, acompanhada de mel, frutas e geleias.Veja, abaixo, uma receita fácil de panquecas.Ingredientes Mais Modo de preparo | comida |
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] | Em Estocolmo, foram os cookies que mostraram aos bailarinos de Beyoncé, à equipe técnica e aos roadies que o chef Grant Bird havia voltado. Cookies de gergelim preto, wasabi e chocolate branco, ou talvez os de chocolate escuro, sem glúten, com amêndoas e coco.Grant Bird é um chef confeiteiro inglês e um dos 14 profissionais de cozinha que trabalham na Renaissance World Tour, de Beyoncé, em curso agora. A turnê também emprega um chef vegano e três chefs pessoais apenas para Queen B e seu círculo íntimo.Depois de contrair Covid durante os ensaios em Paris, Bird precisou se afastar por uma semana, deixando a cargo de dois chefs substitutos o preparo das sobremesas para entre 400 e 600 membros da equipe técnica. A essa altura a equipe já se acostumara com seu suntuoso cardápio de sobremesas, que muitas vezes incluía uma dúzia de opções diferentes no almoço e no jantar.O menu de sobremesas reduzido era sinal de sua ausência. Assim, quando as pessoas voltaram a ver centenas de cookies de diversos tipos, souberam que ele havia voltado."Isso foi na hora do almoço, e o salão inteiro aplaudiu", contou Bird, que já cozinhou para Carrie Underwood, Justin Bieber e Motley Crue.Beyoncé é uma das maiores estrelas do mundo, mas viajar com uma equipe inteira de chefs não é simplesmente um adicional. Hoje em dia, em nome da eficiência, saúde e moral da tropa, muito artistas quando saem em turnês levam junto não apenas vários cozinheiros profissionais mas também cozinhas móveis inteiras.Exigências exóticas ou extravagantes, como a banda Van Halen pedir M&Ms sem os marrons, já viraram folclore, mas a suspensão dos shows ao vivo durante a pandemia levou a uma revisão das normas no setor, com nova ênfase sobre a saúde. Hoje, por exemplo, muitas turnês incluem um chef vegano e priorizam o bem-estar físico e mental, além da preocupação em reduzir o impacto ambiental."No passado, no início dos anos 1980 e na década de 1990, o ambiente das turnês era mais de festa. Havia cocaína e tudo o que os artistas quisessem. Hoje é um negócio, só isso", disse Gray Rolling, que é chef da banda Linkin Park há anos e já cozinhou para Prince, Madonna e Tori Amos em algumas de suas turnês. "Temos um trabalho para fazer: colocar aqueles talentos sobre o palco. Garantir que tudo funcione perfeitamente. E fazer tudo de novo no dia seguinte."Aludindo à turnês do Linkin Park e do Thirty Seconds to Mars, em 2014, ele comentou: "A turnê chamava Carnivores Tour, mas dos 16 caras para os quais cozinhamos, 14 eram veganos".Restrições alimentares como essas não são novidade para James Digby, veterano administrador de turnês que acaba de trabalhar no trecho europeu da turnê de Avril Lavigne. Mais "Na catering da turnê de Paul McCartney, você não encontra uma refeição que não seja vegetariana. É um desafio, porque a maioria dos roadies que conheço são carnívoros", disse Digby. "Mas se o artista está tentando transformar o mundo uma turnê por vez, dizendo que todo o mundo é vegetariano, cabe a mim ecoar isso."Independentemente do tipo de culinária, as demandas da produção são grandes. O padrão do setor para uma turnê de dimensões grandes prevê que sejam servidas quatro refeições nos dias de preparo dos shows e nos dias dos concertos: café da manhã, almoço, jantar e um lanche pós-apresentação, frequentemente consumido em um ônibus."Um exército marcha quando seu estômago está satisfeito. É preciso alimentar as tropas", disse Digby. Quando ele fala em tropas, está se referindo à banda, aos vocalistas de backup, os bailarinos, os montadores do palco, a equipe de efeitos pirotécnicos, os seguranças, os administradores, os motoristas dos ônibus e todas as outras pessoas envolvidas no ramo do entretenimento ao vivo de alto nível.Em um show recente da Lizzo na Acrisure Arena, em Palm Desert, Califórnia, o almoço incluiu uma estação de sucos de verduras e frutas, com uma cesta de vegetais já preparados para irem ao liquidificador. Havia salsichas empanadas no palito (que os americanos chamam de "corn dog"), sanduíches de frango frito e hambúrgueres de carne vegetal, além de cuscuz marroquino, abóbora, cenouras e cookies.Tudo havia sido preparado na cozinha do local. Mas normalmente a Latitude 45, a empresa encarregada das operações culinárias nas turnês da Lizzo, trabalha numa sofisticada cozinha móvel que voa de uma cidade para outra em malas feitas especialmente para isso. A cada novo destino, elas são desmontadas e montadas novamente.A HSG Catering, empresa sediada em Chicago e que no momento trabalha na turnê do cantor country americano Eric Church, usa uma cozinha móvel de 16 metros que tem um freezer e uma geladeira enormes, um aquecedor de água de 300 litros. A unidade também vem equipada com um defumador de carne, uma churrasqueira, fornos de convecção e uma máquina de "sous vide" capaz de preparar 300 bifes ao mesmo tempo", segundo o presidente da empresa, Bob Schnneberger.Às vezes os chefs acompanham os artistas em jatinhos particulares ou carros blindados, com escolta policial, mas a necessidade de cozinhar na estrada também pode levá-los a trabalhar em cozinhas improvisadas, alimentadas por geradores, montadas em campos ou estacionamentos.Mitchell diz que para dar conta do trabalho, os profissionais precisam gostar de resolver problemas e de viver com o pé na estrada constantemente, além de ter a capacidade de dormir em ônibus de turnê por meses a fio. As condições de trabalho promovem uma espécie de camaradagem com colegas, e muitos chefs se orgulham de usar camisetas de turnês passadas. O trabalho ainda tem um quê de "provador oficial da comida do rei". Mais "Bastaria um caso de intoxicação alimentar e seria preciso cancelar apresentações por no mínimo 48 horas", disse Digby. Com os shows virando espetáculos cada vez mais grandiosos, e os preços dos ingressos chegando a níveis cada vez mais altos, um incidente desse tipo poderia gerar prejuízos na casa dos milhões de dólares.Uma coisa que talvez não tenha mudado muito com o tempo é a seletividade dos artistas, que sem dúvida têm suas preferências em termos do que querem e do que rejeitam terminantemente."Gene Simmons gostava de um sanduíche de peito de peru com alface, tomate e picles servidos separadamente", contou Rollin, que cozinhou para o baixista do Kiss em 2008 e 2009. "Mas ele nunca comia o alface, picles e tomate —nunca." Jared Leto pedia pipoca orgânica roxa com todas as refeições.Durante as viagens nem sempre é fácil ter acesso às comidas que os artistas querem. Digby contou que na década de 1990 Marilyn Manson fazia questão do Mac & Cheese da Kraft, de modo que as caixas lhe eram enviadas para a Inglaterra.Bird, que no verão passado cozinhou para o grupo de K-pop Blackpink em Chicago, conta que a banda trouxe um caminhão separado apenas para transportar sua marca favorita de miojo. Como alguns outros fornecedores que trabalharam em turnês de grupos de K-pop, Bird ficou impressionado com a ênfase dada às operações culinárias, que sempre incluíam um bufê de comida coreana. "Eles têm tantas estações de comida diferentes e outras coisas que eu nunca tinha visto", ele comentou.Para o camarim da Beyoncé, Bird enviava travessas de frutas e cookies. E, embora não possa afirmar com certeza quais são as escolhas favoritas da popstar, ele observou uma coisa: "Pelo que estou sabendo, as opções mais consumidas são os cookies à base de Reese Cups" —uma das especialidades de Bird, que tem base de baunilha com chocolate belga e pedacinhos de Reese’s Peanut Butter Cups [feitos de manteiga de amendoim e chocolate] misturados.Além da alta demanda por suas criações, Bird ficou emocionado quando viu seu nome incluído nos créditos online da Renaissance Tour."No final de cada espetáculo, normalmente agradecem ao pessoal da iluminação, da montagem do palco e gente que é bem mais próxima deles", disse Bird, que neste momento está em turnê com o cantor country Sam Hunt. "Mas nunca mencionam nossa participação nas turnês, cuidando do catering." | comida |
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] | Os vinhos e espumantes brasileiros bateram recorde de prêmios no International Wine and Spirits Competition, um dos mais importantes concursos do gênero no mundo. Na edição deste ano, os rótulos nacionais receberam cinco medalhas de prata e 42 de bronze —47 no total. São 14 medalhas a mais que em 2022, quando o país arrematou 33 reconhecimentos.Entre os premiados com a medalha de prata, dois rótulos vêm da Vinícola Campestre, de Vacária (RS), e outros dois da Vitivinícola Jolimont, em Canela (RS). Um rótulo da Vinícola Aurora também levou prata no concurso. Ao contrário do que muitos podem imaginar, nenhum deles têm preços exorbitantes: ficam entre R$ 67 e R$ 165 —veja a lista abaixo.O International Wine and Spirits Competition acontece anualmente em Londres, desde 1969. Um júri composto por compradores, Masters of Wine e Masters Sommeliers (a mais alta distinção entre os profissionais do setor) recebe rótulos de produtores de todo o mundo e os submetem a uma degustação às cegas. Para que todos sejam avaliados de forma justa —e também para não esgotar o paladar dos juízes —, são analisadas apenas 65 amostras por dia.As descrições foram fornecidas pelos próprios produtoresMedalha de Prata - 92 pontosMedalha de Prata - 91 pontosMedalha de Prata - 90 pontos Mais (organizado por ordem alfabética dos produtores)Cooperativa Nova Aliança Espumante Brut Espumante Brut Rosé Amitié Espumantes e Vinhos Espumante MoscatelCooperativa Vinícola Aurora Aurora Pinto Bandeira Chardonnay 2021 Aurora Procedências Pinot NoirCasa Valduga Vinhos Finos 130 Espumante Brut Rosé 130 Espumante Brut Premivm Espumante Brut Premivm Espumante Extra Brut Premivm Espumante NatureChandon Brasil Chandon Excellence Brut Chandon Réserve BrutMaison Forestier Vinhos e Espumantes Chardonnay 2022 Espumante NatureCooperativa Vinícola Garibaldi Chardonnay 2022 Espumante Moscatel Espumante Extra BrutCRS Brands Georges Aubert Espumante Branco Brut Tradicional Georges Aubert Espumante Moscatel Georges Aubert Espumante Moscatel RoséVitivinícola Jolimont Arinarnoa Querências 2020 Cabernet Sauvignon Gran Reserva 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon Morro Calçado 2021 Cave Corte Bordalês 2021 Intendente 2009 Reserva Pinot Noir 2021 Reserva Tannat 2021 Rose Le Fleur 2022Ponto Nero Indústria de Bebida Cult Espumante Brut Rosé Enjoy AlvarinhoVinícola Salton Salton Espumante Brut Rosé Salton Ouro Espumante Brut RoséVinícola UVVA UVVA Cordel 2019 UVVA Microlote Chardonnay 2019Vinícola Campestre Zanotto Chardonnay 2022 Zanotto Espumante Moscatel Zanotto Espumante Moscatel Rosé Zanotto Merlot 2019 Zanotto Pinot Noir 2022 Zanotto Reserva Sauvignon Blanc 2021 Zanotto Syrah 2021 Zanotto Tannat 2020No ano passado, os reconhecimentos aos vinhos brasileiros no exterior cresceu 70%, fazendo de 2022 a melhor temporada do país em concursos internacionais: foram 704 premiações em 23 premiações. Neste ano, até agora, os produtores brasileiros já conseguiram 403 medalhas em 15 concursos."Esta é uma celebração de todos, que eleva a imagem do Brasil, um país do Novo Mundo que evoluiu muito rápido na elaboração de vinhos e espumantes com qualidade internacional", diz o enólogo André Gasperin, presidente da Associação Braileira de Enologia. Em 2022, a entidade enviou representantes para o júri de 17 dos 23 concursos em que o Brasil competiu. Mais | comida |
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] | Seimaibuai. Essa talvez seja a palavra mais importante no complexo universo do saquê. Ela se refere ao índice de aproveitamento do arroz, o passo crucial para a produção dessa bebida alcoólica. Um grão mais polido resulta em sabores mais elegantes, de melhor qualidade. Esse e outros assuntos têm entrado nas rodas de conversa em torno da bebida fermentada japonesa, que vem ganhando mais força e adeptos no país.O interesse por saquê aumenta na mesma medida em que crescem o número de importadoras, a oferta de rótulos e a qualidade. Dados do governo japonês apontam que, de 2020 para cá, a importação de saquê no Brasil vem subindo cerca de 20% ao ano, podendo ultrapassar 250 mil litros até o fim de 2023.Para o restaurateur e especialista Eduardo Preciado, do restaurante carioca Minimok, a qualidade do que tem chegado às prateleiras é o que mais chama atenção. "O cuidado por parte de alguns importadores, com utilização de contêineres refrigerados em todo o percurso, seleção de rótulos de pequenos produtores no Japão, ajudou bastante", afirma.A sommelière Yasmin Yonashiro, dos paulistanos Jojo Ramen, Goya e Makoto, vê mudanças também no comportamento dos clientes, que hoje pedem mais saquê japonês e se interessam mais em entender o que estão tomando. Em 2014, diz, as pessoas tendiam a pedir produtos mais secos ou mais comuns.A tecnologia também deu uma mão. Hoje é possível se sentar ao balcão e provar saquês de diferentes categorias (e valores) em taça, sem precisar consumir toda a garrafa. Isso porque lugares como o sushibar carioca Haru, passaram a investir em máquinas Enomatic, antes usadas só em vinhos: com sistema de preservação à base de nitrogênio, elas permitem que um produto premium possa ser degustado como se a garrafa tivesse acabado de ser aberta."Foi a forma de incentivar o interesse por garrafas mais caras", diz o proprietário Menandro Rodrigues.Dos 30 rótulos que se revezam na engenhoca no Haru, o destaque vai para o Dassai 23 (cuja garrafa sai por R$ 1.368), o mesmo que o então primeiro-ministro japonês Shinzo Abe serviu ao ex-presidente americano Barack Obama.Como as importações estão aumentando, as lojas de varejo se proliferaram e mais fábricas de saquê estão de olho no Brasil. Hoje já são 13 em território nacional, todas em São Paulo. Paradoxalmente, à medida que a popularidade do saquê aumenta em outros lugares, ela diminui no Japão. A população está envelhecendo, as pessoas estão bebendo menos em geral.O brasileiro está aprendendo a tomar saquê, e o governo japonês tem incentivado muita a difusão no Brasil do washoku, que é como é conhecida a culinária tradicional do país asiático, por meio de cursos e eventos disponíveis principalmente em São Paulo (na Japan House, por exemplo), mas também no Rio de Janeiro.De acordo com a empresa de consultoria JTB Tourism Research and Consulting, que rastreia o turismo no Japão, uma outra razão para o aumento do consumo de saquê no país, tem a ver com o número de brasileiros visitando o Japão, na casa dos 70 mil em parâmetros pré-Covid. Muitos desses viajantes voltam para casa com maior interesse em cultura, comida e saquê japoneses. Mais Com tamanha procura, vale falar ainda sobre o que caracteriza um saquê de qualidade.Em sua base, a bebida milenar leva arroz, água, fermento e koji, um molde de arroz também usado para fazer molho de soja, que quebra os amidos do arroz em açúcares fermentáveis, assim como se faz com o malte na produção de cerveja.Flocos de ouro, designações, tipo de arroz e até a água utilizada para fermentar são fatores que podem levar o preço da garrafa a passar de R$ 20 mil.Na base da pirâmide dos saquês considerados premium estão os junmai e os honjozo, as duas grandes categorias —o que os diferencia é a adição de álcool nesses últimos. Um daiginjo é um saquê superpremium —os da marca Hokusetsu, uma das mais tradicionais do Japão, usam 30% do grão do yamadanishiki, tido como o melhor arroz do mundo, para o preparo. Aqui, ele é coado em sacos com uma técnica chamada shizuku e armazenado em garrafas de titânio.De tão versátil, o consumo do saquê vai bem não só com sushi. "A harmonização segue aqueles preceitos de paridade de sabores ou contraste. Ele é bem mais condescendente que o vinho, ou seja, é mais difícil de errar com ele. Tanto é que no Japão nem se fala em harmonização", afirma Preciado, do Minimok.Mas não é recomendável ser displicente na combinação."Um daiginjo muito leve e elegante pode ‘morrer’ com um prato de sabores muito intensos, por exemplo. O ‘junmai daiginjo’ é superdelicado e morreria se combinado com wagyu [raça de gado japonês com alto teor de gordura]", afirma Tsuyoshi Murakami, do restaurante Murakami. | comida |
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] | Com os termômetros previstos para atingir menos de 8 graus, este deve ser um dos sábados mais frios do ano, com ventos fortes e um clima ideal para permanecer em casa debaixo das cobertas.Para amenizar a temperatura baixa, a dica da confeiteira Luciana Machado, dona do ateliê Lu Chocolates, é o clássico fondue de chocolate, que além de simples e rápido, é uma receita fácil e que rende o bastante para até quatro pessoas.Na dica de Machado, o chocolate pode ser derretido em banho-maria ou no micro-ondas, leva um toque de conhaque e fica pronto em menos de 30 minutos. Mais As frutas ficam a critério do freguês, mas as indicações clássicas são morangos e uvas, podendo incluir ainda banana, damasco e até mexerica. Biscoitos também são uma opção.Grau de dificuldade: fácilTempo de preparo: 30 minutosRendimento: 4 porções | 4 pessoasIngredientesModo de Preparo | comida |
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] | Com a notícia de que uma mudança brusca no tempo deverá provocar ventos fortes e queda radical na temperatura a partir desta quinta-feira (13) no estado de São Paulo —sem contar o ciclone extratropical que atua no Sul do Brasil— é melhor preparar a geladeira para o que vem por aí.Para momentos como este o ideal é ter um prato mais quente congelado na geladeira. Além de aquecer nas noites frias, as sopas são nutritivas.O livro "Culinária Expressa" dedica um de seus capítulos à comida congelada. São sopas, caldos, molhos, ensopados e tortas que duram de três a seis meses depois de preparados. Além do passo a passo para cozinhar, o volume explica como conservá-los e como descongelar para aquecer. Mais Veja algumas dicas:Prepare a sopa que mais lhe agradar. Abaixo temos duas receitas: sopa de mandioquinha com tomate e sopa picante de abóbora.Grau de dificuldade: Fácil Tempo de preparo: Até uma hora Rendimento: oito porções2 colheres (sopa) de azeite2 cebolas picadas4 dentes de alho amassadosuma pitada de pimenta-calabresa4 cenouras picadassal e pimenta-do-reino moída na hora450 g de mandioquinha3 latas de 400 g de tomate picado1,4 litro de caldo de legumes quenteAqueça o azeite numa panela grande e refogue a cebola por 6-8 minutos em fogo baixo, até ficar macia e transparente. Junte o alho, a pimenta-calabresa e as cenouras. Tempere com sal e pimenta-do-reino e frite por dois minutos.Adicione a mandioquinha, misture e junte o tomate e o caldo. Cozinhe por cerca de 20 minutos em fogo bem baixo, até os legumes amaciarem. Bata em creme no liquidificador. Verifique o tempero.Deixe esfriar por completo, passe para um recipiente próprio e feche. Congele por até três meses. Para servir, descongele na geladeira durante a noite, ponha numa panela e esquente até ferver.Aqueça o azeite numa panela grande e refogue a cebola por 6-8 minutos em fogo baixo, até ficar macia e transparente. Tempere com sal e pimenta. Misture o alho, a sálvia, as pimentas vermelhas e a noz-moscada e refogue rapidamente.Adicione a abóbora, misture e junte as batatas e o caldo. Espere ferver, abaixe o fogo e cozinhe por 20-30 minutos, até os legumes amaciarem. Bata em creme no liquidificador. Verifique o tempero.Deixe esfriar bem, passe para um recipiente próprio e feche. Congele por até três meses. Para servir, descongele na geladeira durante a noite, ponha numa panela e esquente até ferver. Sirva salpicado com o gruyère. | comida |
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] | Já virou tradição, ao longo do mês de julho, estender as comemorações juninas no que se convencionou a chamar de "festa julina", com quermesses espalhadas ao redor da cidade dando continuidade às festas repletas bolos, tortas, churros e uma série de pratos típicos à base de milho.Pensando no sucesso das festas que raramente oferecem opções veganas, o confeiteiro Lucas Corazza indica uma receita de bolo de paçoca vegano simples e que leva, além da paçoca de amendoim na massa, amendoim torrado para a produção de um caramelo que compõe a calda.A receita leva pouco mais de uma hora para ser executada e rende até 12 pedaços. Mais Grau de dificuldade: fácil Tempo de preparo: 1h30 Rendimento: 12 porções, ou um bolo de 25 cmIngredientesPara a massa:Para o caramelo:Modo de preparo | comida |
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] | Receita clássica do cardápio mineiro, a canjiquinha com paio e carne seca é uma opção para aqueles que acham que sopa não compõe o cardápio do jantar, mas também não abrem mão de espantar o frio.A indicação é do chef e produtor Gilberto Geronimo Oller, o Peninha, que ficou à frente do restaurante Pitanga por 14 anos até passar adiante as operações, em 2012. Na dica, a canjiquinha é considerada fácil e pode ser feita em até uma hora. Rende até seis porções generosas. Mais Grau de dificuldade: Fácil Tempo de preparo: Até uma hora Rendimento: seis porçõesRefogue o alho no azeite. Adicione a carne seca e o paio e refogue por mais 2 minutos aproximadamente. Acrescente a água e deixe cozinhar até a carne seca ficar macia. Retire a carne seca e o paio da panela.Na água que sobrou, ponha a canjiquinha, o louro, o sal e a pimenta e cozinhe por cerca de 25 minutos. Mexa sempre e adicione mais água se for preciso. Quando a quirela ficar macia, junte a carne seca desfiada, o paio em rodelas e a couve. Misture bem e sirva a seguir. | comida |
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] | O salmão é um fenômeno de popularidade em São Paulo. "É o peixe preferido por 80% da clientela", diz Denis Watanabe, dono do restaurante que leva seu sobrenome no bairro do Itaim Bibi.Os brasileiros descobriram o peixe rosa-alaranjado nos anos 1980, por meio de hotéis e restaurantes que serviam a então sofisticada (e cara) cozinha internacional. "Só havia demanda para salmão defumado, que a gente fazia a partir de peixes congelados", afirma Roberto Veiga, da Damm, responsável pelas primeiras importações do Chile.Hoje, o cenário é outro. Em 2022, o país importou 101 mil toneladas de salmão, que chegam a supermercados, temakerias, redes de fast food e restaurantes por quilo. Por trás dessa mudança estão campanhas de marketing agressivas, bancadas por indústrias pesqueiras e governos das principais regiões exportadoras: o Chile e o estado do Alasca, nos Estados Unidos.Os americanos foram os pioneiros nessa popularização. Desde 2011, o Alaska Seafood Marketing Institute, o ASMI, divulga por aqui as propriedades dos peixes selvagens, que são pescados nas águas geladas do norte do Oceano Pacífico. Mas os produtos só chegaram aos mercados nacionais na Quaresma de 2014."Promovemos degustações, e o salmão foi o carro-chefe daquela Semana Santa", diz Carolina Nascimento, porta-voz da entidade em São Paulo. Desde então, eventos em restaurantes, cursos em escolas de gastronomia e parcerias com influenciadores, chefs e nutricionistas foram incorporados ao projeto.Ainda assim, os resultados são tímidos. Das 101 mil toneladas de salmão que o Brasil importou em 2022, só 430 vieram do Alasca. Todo o restante vem do Chile. Embora tenha iniciado a campanha um ano depois do ASMI, em 2012, a Salmón de Chile conseguiu tirar o atraso. Com aliados de peso, como o chef Rodrigo Oliveira, do restaurante Mocotó, transformou o Brasil no terceiro maior mercado consumidor, atrás de EUA e Japão.Ao mesmo tempo em que agradam ao paladar do brasileiro, produtores de salmão são cada vez mais acusados de práticas nocivas ao meio ambiente. As denúncias variam.No caso do Chile, onde o salmão é criado em cativeiro, a ONG internacional Oceana afirma que tanques superpopulosos geram acúmulo de resíduos de ração abaixo das gaiolas e provocam doenças que são debeladas à custa de altas dosagens de antibióticos. Mais A ASMI aproveita as acusações contra o concorrente para dizer que só comercializa salmão selvagem, pescado no habitat natural. A mesma Oceana, no entanto, por meio do seu braço norte-americano, alerta que o salmão tem dificuldade para se reproduzir em águas cada vez mais quentes, fruto do aquecimento global. Se o ritmo da indústria pesqueira não for reduzido, alega a entidade, o salmão selvagem corre risco de extinção.A cor do peixe também é fruto de comparação. Enquanto os do Alasca a adquirem de forma natural, porque se alimentam de krill e plânctons que têm esse pigmento, os chilenos são coloridos indiretamente, diz a Oceana, por causa da ração. As entidades rebatem as acusações e afirmam que cumprem, com rigor, as legislações de seus países."Somos a indústria de proteína mais regulada pelo governo do Chile. Os exportadores têm certificações internacionais e publicam relatórios de sustentabilidade. A ONG Monterey Bay Aquarium está desenvolvendo um projeto, de longo prazo, para diminuir o uso de antibióticos", afirma Melanie Whatmore, gerente da Salmón de Chile."Desde a criação do Alasca, em 1959, a constituição do estado determina que recursos naturais sejam geridos de forma sustentável. Criações de cativeiro são proibidas e um corpo de biólogos trabalha monitorando os estoques de cardumes", diz a porta-voz da ASMI.A despeito da discussão, cozinhas profissionais e amadoras seguem fiéis ao salmão. Como o mercado recebe diferentes produtos, o resultado culinário varia —foi o que constataram os profissionais convidados para a degustação promovida pela Folha.Na Escola Wilma Kövesi de Cozinha, no bairro paulistano de Pinheiros, cortes de salmão do Chile e do Alasca foram testados pelos professores Joël Ruiz e Tiago Membrive, pela chef Bella Masano, do restaurante Amadeus, especializado em pescados, e pelo sushiman Denis Watanabe. Eles prepararam receitas cruas e cozidas, com vários métodos de cocção, e analisaram os resultados a partir dos critérios sabor, cor e textura.Mais caro, o salmão selvagem vermelho (o "sockeye"), do Alasca, encanta pelo tom vermelho intenso, sem camadas de gordura aparentes. Mas, como a distância o obriga a viajar já congelado, não funciona para qualquer receita. Membrive seguiu a recomendação do fornecedor, preparou as postas congeladas e aprovou o resultado. "Levei do freezer à frigideira e finalizei no forno. Ficou suculento, parecendo fresco."Quando passa por descongelamento, no entanto, o peixe perde textura, diz Bella Masano. "A amostra descongelada tinha textura esponjosa e ficou ressecada na cocção a vácuo." Por isso, o salmão descongelado não foi aprovado por Watanabe para preparos crus, como sashimi. "O peixe soltou muito líquido e perdeu sabor."O mesmo não acontece com o salmão do Atlântico (Salmo salar), chileno, que chega fresco. Segundo a Salmón de Chile, os peixes vêm de caminhão e levam quatro dias para chegar a São Paulo, por exemplo. De tom rosa claro, tem camadas brancas de gordura bem visíveis, uma vantagem do ponto de vista gastronômico. "O maior teor de gordura confere brilho e textura firme. Na cocção a vácuo, produziu lascas bonitas", diz Bella Masano.A amostra chilena foi a única com altura suficiente para o salmão recheado com abobrinha, receita escolhida por Joël Ruiz. "A textura cremosa tornou o peixe ideal para ser selado com pouco azeite."Nos preparos crus, o salmão chileno fresco também foi aprovado por Watanabe. "As fibras estão íntegras, o que é fundamental para sashimis, carpaccios e tiraditos. Ficou macio, gostoso de mastigar."Também chileno, o salmão coho (Oncorhynchus kisutch) chega congelado, de fevereiro a agosto, e fresco, de setembro a janeiro. Tem tom laranja intenso, sem camadas de gordura aparentes, e resistiu melhor ao descongelamento das amostras, segundo Watanabe. "Ao ser descongelado, perdeu brilho e a peça acabou rachando. Mas a textura do sashimi, na boca não mudou tanto." Mais | comida |
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] | O baiacu, aquele peixe que infla e fica parecendo um balão, é um alimento bastante apreciado na culinária japonesa. No entanto, o seu consumo pode trazer riscos, já que ele libera toxinas que podem ser mortais.Na última semana, o pinguim Zé morreu na praia do Arpoador, no Rio de Janeiro, após abocanhar um peixe, provavelmente um dessa espécie.Mas, havendo cuidados e preparo adequado, é, sim, possível que seres humanos consumam o baiacu com segurança.O peixe tem sabor leve e suave e pode ser agradável ao paladar. Mas alguns de seus órgãos —o fígado, o baço, a vesícula biliar, as glândulas sexuais e a pele— abrigam um veneno letal.A espécie encontrada no oceano Pacífico e consumida no Japão, por exemplo, tem maior concentração de toxinas do que a que é vista no Brasil. Mais No país asiático, é preciso ter uma licença para preparar o baiacu. Isso significa que os cozinheiros devem passar por treinamento específico e saber localizar a área com veneno no animal, já que a neurotoxina liberada pode causar paralisia dos nervos motores e morte por parada respiratória."O consumo só é seguro se ele estiver limpo, manipulado e cortado de maneira adequada", afirma a chef Telma Shiraishi, do restaurante Aizomê, em São Paulo. "O chef deve saber onde está a concentração de veneno."No Brasil, como o peixe tem menos toxinas, quem consumi-lo com moderação não irá morrer, mas, segundo a chef, pode, sim, passar mal."Realmente há um risco em se consumir o baiacu. Mas existe essa adrenalina, esse gosto do perigo que faz as pessoas apreciarem tanto", afirma Shiraishi.No Brasil, diz ela, o peixe não tem tanto apelo comercial e não é muito apreciado pelo público. São poucos os fornecedores, e por isso não é visto com tanta frequência nos restaurantes. | comida |
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] | Arroz, feijão, missô, matchá e gelatina de algas. Esses ingredientes não costumam ser associados a sobremesas, mas são a base da confeitaria japonesa, que tem ganhado espaço no Brasil, país que exagera no açúcar.Endereços especializados nesses doces típicos pipocaram na capital paulista no último ano, caso do Motchimu, marca da família do sushiman Tsuyoshi Murakami dedicada ao moti, bolinho adocicado de arroz glutinoso, e o Daruma, empório asiático de cinco andares com um café de sobremesas japonesas, ambos no bairro dos Jardins. O taiyaki, doce em formato de peixe, é uma das modas da vez.A confeitaria do Japão, cuja migração para o Brasil completa 115 anos neste mês, é dividida em duas vertentes. A chamada wagashi ("wa" é referente ao país nipônico e "gashi" significa doce) é a tradicional, que usa ingredientes típicos. A yogashi ("yo" quer dizer o que vem do Ocidente) é uma adaptação da pâtisserie internacional, sobretudo francesa, ao paladar japonês.Em ambos os casos, o resultado são sobremesas leves, pouco açucaradas e de aparência delicada. Itens como leite condensado, leite em pó e creme de avelã passam longe."O Brasil é culturalmente baseado na cana-de-açúcar. Estamos acostumamos a receitas carregadas no açúcar. As receitas japonesas são mais leves. A ideia é valorizar o sabor original do ingrediente, como uma fruta", diz Telma Shiraishi, chef do restaurante Aizomê e embaixadora da Boa Vontade para Difusão da Culinária Japonesa, título concedido pelo governo japonês. Mais A novidade nesse cenário, diz ela, é a introdução de ingredientes japoneses ao cardápio do brasileiro, que consome cerca de 80 gramas de açúcar por dia —a quantidade recomendada é de 25 a 50 gramas diários, segundo a Organização Mundial da Saúde.Shiraishi diz que os japoneses costumam reservar um docinho só para um momento especial. "Tradicionalmente, eles não comem sobremesa ao final da refeição. A confeitaria é reservada para um momento de comemoração, como nos festivais populares, ou para um chá da tarde", diz.Foi em festivais asiáticos do tipo que o chef-confeiteiro Cesar Yukio, hoje referência no assunto, começou vendendo seus doces. Especializado na yogashi, ele abriu em 2019 a confeitaria Hanami, no Tatuapé, na zona leste. A casa cresceu tanto que Yukio vai fechá-la em setembro para migrar para uma cozinha maior. Ele ainda fornece seus doces e assina o cardápio de sobremesas de outros restaurantes na capital paulista, como o Kinoshita, o Jojo Ramen e o próprio Aizomê, de Shiraishi, onde começou a carreira.Um dos carros-chefes da Hanami é o choux cream, quitute de origem francesa, mas que se popularizou no Japão e ganhou adaptações orientais. A massa tem crosta crocante e recheio de baunilha —por lá, ganha sabores como matchá e caramelo com missô a preços de R$ 12 a R$ 15 a unidade.Outra pedida frequente é o ichigo shortcake, bolo de massa chiffon coberto e recheado com chantili e morango —de tão leve, pode desagradar a quem busca uma sobremesa bem adoçada. "Me surpreendeu a quantidade de pessoas não asiáticas que pedem esse bolo, pois falam que é um doce que não fica pesado. Por isso, tendem a comer mais", diz Yukio. A fatia custa R$ 18.Também especializada na técnica yogashi, a chef-confeiteira Vivianne Wakuda prepara doces japoneses há uma década. Ela começou produzindo quitutes como choux cream em casa, e hoje tem uma loja no bairro de Moema, na zona sul, onde vende cerca de 10 mil itens por mês.Nas receitas, Wakuda introduziu ingredientes como cupuaçu e cumaru e fez algumas adaptações para o gosto dos brasileiros. "Sou brasileira, então sinto falta de um docinho", diz confeiteira, que se especializou no Japão. Mais Nesses dez anos, ela viu o perfil dos clientes mudar, deixando de ser apenas a comunidade de descendentes de asiáticos. "A confeitaria nesse estilo só se popularizou porque o público tem amadurecido em relação ao açúcar", diz.Segundo os três chefs, a aceitação maior desses doces também está relacionada a uma percepção de que eles são mais saudáveis. "Um doce assim vai pesar menos na consciência. Mas nada disso seria conquistado se não fosse muito gostoso", diz Shiraishi.Aizomê Al. Fernão Cardim, 39, Jardim Paulista, região oeste, São Paulo @aizomerestauranteEmpório Daruma R. Augusta, 1.917, Cerqueira César, região oeste, São Paulo, @emporiodarumaHanami R. Demétrio Ribeiro, 785, Tatuapé, região leste, São Paulo, @hanamiconfeitariaMotchimu R. Melo Alves, 303, Jardins, região oeste, São Paulo, @motchimuVivianne Wakuda Pâtisserie Al. dos Nhambiquaras, 1.410, Moema, região sul, São Paulo, @viwakuda Flower Bakery Sob encomenda via WhatsApp: (11) 98319-1588, Campinas, @flower.bakery_Fabiana Hatada Confeitaria Sob encomenda via [email protected], Guarulhos, @fabihatadaconfeitariaMainiti Café R. Júlio Prestes, 254, Jardim Esplanada, Mogi das Cruzes, @mainiticafeHachimitsu R. Euclides da Cunha 816, Bigorrilho, Curitiba/PR @hachimitsucuritibaYAZ Doceria Oriental Shopping Mestre Álvaro - Av. João Palácios, 300, Eurico Salles, Espirito Santo | comida |
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] | Levou 20 anos, mas finalmente a América Latina alcançou o topo da gastronomia mundial. O peruano Central foi eleito o melhor restaurante do mundo na edição de 2023 do 50 Best, um dos prêmios mais influentes do setor.O Brasil esteve representado com apenas um restaurante entre os 50 melhores do mundo na premiação: A Casa do Porco, em São Paulo, ficou na 12ª posição (menos 5 posições que o ano passado).É a primeira vez que a América Latina consegue o primeiro lugar no controverso ranking, dominado por duas décadas por restaurantes da Europa.Fora do velho continente, apenas os Estados Unidos haviam emplacado dois restaurantes no topo: The French Laundry (2003 e 2004) e Eleven Madison Park (2017).Também foi um dos melhores anos da América Latina no ranking: o continente teve 12 representantes entre os 50 —dois a mais que no ano passado, apontando para uma boa onda latina na gastronomia mundial Mais Em novembro, o Rio de Janeiro vai receber a versão latino-americana da premiação —é a primeira vez que uma cerimônia dos 50 Best acontece no Brasil."A América Latina merece o primeiro lugar pelo trabalho realizado de pesquisa, sustentabilidade e, acima de tudo, pelo um novo olhar que o continente tem proposto para a riqueza da cozinha ancestral que tem", afirmou a chef Janaina Rueda, presente na celebração.A vitória do Central representa não apenas uma mudança de paradigma geopolítico da gastronomia —ainda eurocêntrica— mas é o primeiro restaurante codirigido por uma chef mulher a chegar ao topo.Também trata-se do primeiro vencedor que tem uma cozinha com foco em ingredientes autóctones e com uma tradição culinária não europeia.Das algas aos lingueirões (semelhante a um marisco) às dezenas de batatas nativas cultivadas nos Andes, a 4.200 metros, o menu do Central é uma viagem pelos biomas do país. A altitude foi a maneira que os chefs, Pía León e Virgilio Martinez, encontraram de mostrar toda a biodiversidade de um país que se tornou um destino gastronômico internacional e uma potência no mundo com sua cozinha.Aberto em 2013, nos últimos anos o restaurante tem se dedicado a uma pesquisa de ingredientes e técnicas ancestrais, mantidos por comunidades nativas anteriores à colonização espanhola.Mater Iniciativa, um centro de investigação do território, é comandado por Malena Martinez, irmã de Virgílio, que fica nos Andes, onde os chefs também mantêm o restaurante Mil, em Moray.O trabalho de pesquisa que fazem ali influenciou outros chefs na América Latina, fazendo com que mais cozinheiros buscassem valorizar o que têm em seu entorno e dar mais destaque aos ingredientes locais.A lista, revelada este ano em Valência, na Espanha, mostra como essa mudança da geopolítica da gastronomia mundial tem alterado o ranking dos 50 melhores: no ano passado, 30 dos restaurantes eram europeus. Neste ano, o número foi de 27.O fim das restrições de visitas aos países asiáticos também mudou gradativamente as posições da lista, dando a restaurantes de Bancoc e Hong Kong mais destaque.Dubai se firma como um destino gastronômico com dois restaurantes na lista —os únicos do Oriente Médio. A África continua sem representantes na lista, assim como a Oceania.Em mais de duas décadas, entretanto, o 50 Best se firma como um elemento de grande influência no setor, capaz de reunir em uma mesma cidade chefs do México, de Hong Kong e da Eslovênia, além de jornalistas e influenciadores de todo o mundo.Também foram anunciados prêmios especiais na cerimônia de 2023. Entre eles, o sul-africano Fyn, reconhecido como restaurante sustentável do ano, o espanhol Miguel Angel Millán, como melhor sommelier, e a chef equatoriana Pía Salazar, como melhor chef confeiteira. O prêmio Art of Hospitality (restaurante com melhor hospitalidade) foi dado ao Alchemist, na Dinamarca.Entre as outras premiações individuais concedidas pelo 50 Best, o restaurante Tatiana (Nova York), do chef Kwame Onwuachi, foi eleito na categoria One to Watch, e o chef Andoni Luis Aduriz, do espanhol Mugaritz, foi reconhecido como ícone, ovacionado pelo público no palco .Veja abaixo a lista dos 50 melhores restaurantes do mundo e também da lista estendida da premiação, que vai das posições 51 a 100, divulgada no início de junho.1 - Central (Lima) 2 - Disfrutar (Barcelona) 3 - Diverxo (Madri) 4 - Asador Etxebarri (San Sebastián, Espanha) 5 - Alchemist (Copenhague) 6 - Maido (Lima) 7 - Lido 84 (Gardone Riviera, Itália) 8 - Atomix (Nova York) 9 - Quintonil (Cidade do México) 10 - Table by Bruno Verjus (Paris) 11 - Trèsind Studio (Dubai) 12 - A Casa do Porco (São Paulo) 13 - Pujol (Cidade do México) 14 - Odette (Singapura) 15 - Le Du (Bancoc) 16 - Reale (Castel di Sangro, Itália) 17 - Gaggan Anand (Bancoc) 18 - Steirereck(Viena) 19 - Don Julio (Buenos Aires) 20 - Quique Dacosta (Valência) 21 - Den (Tóquio) 22 - Elkano (Getaria, Espanha) 23 - Kol (Londres) 24 - Septime (Paris) 25 - Belcanto (Lisboa) 26 - Schloss Schauenstein (Fürstenau, Suíça) 27 - Florilège (Tóquio) 28 - Kjolle (Lima) 29 - Boragó (Santiago) 30 - Frantzén (Estocolmo) 31 - Mugaritz (San Sebastián, Espanha) 32 - Hiša Franko (Kobarid, Eslovênia) 33 - El Chato (Bogotá) 34 - Uliassi (Senigallia, Itália) 35 - Ikoyi (Londres) 36 - Plénitude (Paris) 37 - Sézanne (Tóquio) 38 - The Clove Club (Londres) 39 - The Jane (Antuérpia, Bélgica) 40 - Restaurant Tim Raue (Berlim) 41 - Le Calandre (Rubano, Itália) 42 - Piazza Duomo (Alba, Itália) 43 - Leo (Bogotá) 44 - Le Bernardin (Nova York) 45 - Nobelhart & Schmutzig (Berlim) 46 - Orfali Bros Bistro (Dubai) 47 - Mayta (Lima) 48 - La Grenouillère (La Madelaine-sous-Montreuil, França) 49 - Rosetta (Cidade do México) 50 - The Chairman (Hong Kong)Lista estendida, da 51ª à 100ª posição51 - Narisawa (Tóquio) 52 - Hof Van Cleve (Kruishoutem, Bélgica) 53 - Brat (Londres) 54 - Alcalde (Guadalajara) 55 - Ernst (Berlim) 56 - Sorn (Bancoc) 57 - Jordnær (Copenhague) 58 - Lasai (Rio de Janeiro) 59 - Mérito (Lima) 60 - La Cime (Osaka) 61 - Chef’s Table at Brooklyn Fare (Nova York) 62 - Arpège (Paris) 63 - Neolokal (Istambul) 64 - Aponiente (El Puerto de Santa María, Espanha) 65 - Burnt Ends (Singapura) 66 - Turk Fatih Tutak (Istambul) 67 - Le Clarence (Paris) 68 - SingleThread (Healdsburg, Estados Unidos) 69 - Zén (Singapura) 70 - Sud 777 (Cidade do México) 71 - Core by Clare Smyth (Londres) 72 - Sühring (Bancoc) 73 - Cosme (Nova York) 74 - Nusara (Bancoc) 75 - Fyn (Cidade do Cabo) 76 - Oteque (Rio de Janeiro) 77 - Tantris (Munique) 78 - Alléno Paris au Pavillon Ledoyen (Paris) 79 - Nuema (Quito) 80 - Flocons de Sel (Megève, França) 81 - Azurmendi (Larrabetzu, Espanha) 82 - Enigma (Barcelona) 83 - Sazenka (Tóquio) 84 - Meta (Singapura) 85 - Enrico Bartolini (Milão) 86 - Lyle’s (Londres) 87 - Ossiano (Dubai) 88 - Potong (Bancoc) 89 - Mingles (Seul) 90 - Wing (Hong Kong) 91 - Kadeau (Copenhague) 92 - Neighborhood (Hong Kong) 93 - Kei (Paris) 94 - La Colombe (Cidade do Cabo) 95 - Ceto (Roquebrune-Cap-Martin, França) 96 - Ricard Camarena Restaurant (Valência) 97 - Labyrinth (Singapura) 98 - Saison (San Francisco) 99 - Fu He Hui (Xangai) 100 - Maito (Cidade do Panamá) | comida |
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] | "Não estou interessada na alta gastronomia." É com essa premissa que a chef Gabriela Barretto abre seu livro, "Como Cozinhar sua Preguiça" (ed. Melhoramentos), e elabora o menu do restaurante paulistano Chou. Massas com molhos cremosos são servidas em tigelas ou na frigideira. O porco, cozido lentamente, vai ao prato com uma porção generosa de polenta."Tive uma infância em um ambiente idílico e tento reconstruir esse lugar na minha comida. O sabor do Chou é rústico, traz aconchego. Ninguém se distrai com a técnica."Barretto é um dos expoentes contemporâneos de uma escola gastronômica, a chamada cozinha afetiva, que demonstra longevidade em meio a modas e tendências.Resistiu à chegada da gastronomia molecular, conhecida por suas esferas e espumas, e dos longos menus-degustação. Não perde o vigor nem mesmo na era dos reality shows e dos vídeos do TikTok, que fazem qualquer preparo parecer instantâneo.Para construir a base dessa cozinha, chefs como Carla Pernambuco, Mara Salles e Paola Carosella cozinham amparadas em memórias e dialogam com o público muito além do fogão. Nos registros de suas receitas, impressos ou digitais, buscam fisgar o comensal pelas emoções.A linguagem afetuosa, que está no centro da cozinha afetiva, virou até um nicho de negócio. "O grau artesanal e a hospitalidade são grandes tendências do setor. Ao contar histórias sobre seus produtos, os fabricantes apelam à nostalgia do consumidor e atenuam o estigma do produto industrializado", afirma Simone Galante, da consultoria Galunion, especializada em negócios de alimentação. Mais A comida afetiva representa uma espécie de descanso, segundo Paula Pinto e Silva, doutora em antropologia social pela USP. "Depois de tanto valorizar o exótico, as pessoas passaram a procurar uma comida que não precisa ser decifrada. A comida de alma."Não por coincidência, "comida de alma" era um termo que a cronista e banqueteira Nina Horta (1939-2019) costumava empregar em suas colunas nesta Folha. Em vez de privilegiar apenas receitas, ela usava o seu espaço no jornal para descrever as emoções despertadas pela comida.Os trabalhos de Horta sobre comer e cozinhar, ricos em onomatopeias, metáforas e interjeições, ajudaram a forjar um estilo que transporta o público para um universo caseiro, distante dos salões cintilantes dos restaurantes. Mais A autora assumia uma "implicância solene" com o esnobismo. Criticava estabelecimentos que serviam musses de kiwi e tiramissu, mas não ofereciam um bom sagu. Sua primeira coletânea de crônicas, "Não É Sopa", de 1994, foi relançada pela Companhia das Letras em 2020.A escritora também é tema do curso Nina Horta – Literatura de Sensações, já na sexta edição, ministrado pela jornalista Luiza Fecarotta. O próximo, já com fila de espera, acontece na escola Wilma Kövesi de Cozinha, em outubro."Ela criou uma nova interpretação da comida, inaugurando uma safra de textos gastronômicos que nem precisavam estar acompanhados das receitas", afirma Fecarotta.Autora de livros que misturam receitas e memórias, entre eles "Cozinhando para Amigos" (ed. DBA), a chef Heloísa Bacellar vê a culinarista Bettina Orrico e a apresentadora Palmirinha, ambas mortas neste ano, como fontes de inspiração para sua cozinha.No portal nacozinhadahelo.com.br, a chef procura ensinar receitas como o bolinho de carne "delicioso", o arroz doce "de casa de avó" e o bolo de amendoim "daqui da roça"."Tenho recortes de revista colados nos meus cadernos. Bettina Orrico dava às receitas esse ar de comida da gente. E a quantidade de gente que Palmirinha motivou a cozinhar? Elas duas, assim como Nina Horta, me ajudaram a entender que o caminho que escolhi não era maluco." Mais O que faz a relação afetuosa com a comida seguir um tema tão atual? Para a antropóloga Paula Pinto e Silva, uma geração inteira de mulheres rompeu com a cozinha doméstica no século 20 para conquistar o mercado de trabalho —e são os seus filhos que hoje buscam restaurar essa proximidade."Cortamos um vínculo que sempre existiu. De repente, não tínhamos mais avós e mães cozinhando, o que quebrou uma das funções da comida, que é garantir a identidade", afirma. "Ninguém quer explorar sabores novos o tempo todo, e quanto mais difícil o contexto socioeconômico e cultural, mais a gente busca essa comida conhecida."Paulista de Campinas, Jane Lutti promovia jantares a portas fechadas em sua casa, em 2012, quando decidiu mergulhar no estudo da cozinha afetiva. Aproveitava encontros para ouvir histórias que sempre relacionavam sabores e boas lembranças. Suas descobertas já viraram dois livros."O primeiro sistematiza o conceito numa linguagem bem democrática. Tenho conquistado até leitores que admitem não ter o hábito de ler. O segundo é uma coletânea de receitas com suas histórias. O processo de escolha foi terapêutico", ela diz.Lutti discorda da ideia de que a comida afetiva tenha de envolver pratos de qualidade excepcional. Afirma que detestava a comida do pai, cheia de temperos industrializados, e só compreendeu a carga emocional daqueles sabores após sua morte, em 2014."Perdi minha mãe aos 3 anos e meu pai ficou sozinho, com oito filhos. De manhã, fazia um sanduíche com pão amanhecido, uma linguiça duvidosa e tomate murcho. Hoje, sinto falta daquele sabor. Era sua forma de demonstrar amor."Escrita e Comida: Nina Horta – Literatura de Sensações Em quatro aulas, a jornalista especializada em gastronomia Luiza Fecarotta apresenta oficinas de escrita e degustações com as receitas de Nina Horta, mais importante cronista da área no país. Escola Wilma Kövesi de Cozinha. Rua Cristiano Viana, 224, Pinheiros, São Paulo.Valor R$ 1.480. Quando: outubro. Contato: (11) 999731775 | comida |
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] | Parece frango, tem cheiro de frango e gosto de frango.Eu jamais imaginaria que o pedaço de carne que está na minha frente não veio de uma fazenda. Mas ele foi feito em um laboratório, em uma propriedade industrial, a alguns quilômetros de distância.Estou no Huber's Butchery and Bistro, em Singapura, o único restaurante do mundo a oferecer o que se chama de "carne de cultura" no cardápio.A resposta dos clientes tem sido "fenomenal", de acordo com o proprietário do restaurante.A criadora da carne, a empresa californiana Eat Just, garante que seu produto consegue ser ético, limpo e ecológico, sem abrir mão do sabor.Bilhões de dólares estão sendo investidos nesse setor, mas há grandes dúvidas sobre sua viabilidade a longo prazo.Desde que o primeiro hambúrguer produzido em laboratório foi apresentado em Londres, em 2013, uma criação que custou impressionantes US$ 330 mil (R$ 1,8 milhão), dezenas de empresas em todo o mundo se juntaram à corrida para comercializar carne cultivada em laboratório a preços razoáveis.Até agora, apenas a Eat Just conseguiu que seu produto fosse aprovado para venda ao público depois que os reguladores de Singapura, o único país do mundo que permite a venda desse tipo de carne, deram luz verde ao seu frango em dezembro de 2020.Mas o produto está longe de ser produzido em larga escala.Nuggets de frango cultivados em laboratório estiveram brevemente no menu de um clube privado em 2021.Essa parceria durou alguns meses e, neste ano, o Huber's começou a oferecer ao público em geral um sanduíche de frango e um prato de macarrão com frango, embora apenas uma vez por semana."Carne cultivada é carne de verdade, mas você não precisa abater um animal", disse Josh Tetrick, executivo-chefe da Eat Just, que falou à BBC de São Francisco. "Esta forma de comer faz sentido para o futuro."Ao contrário dos substitutos à base de plantas, a carne cultivada é literalmente carne. O processo envolve a extração de células de um animal, que são alimentadas com nutrientes como proteínas, açúcares e gorduras.As células podem então se dividir e crescer, antes de serem colocadas em um grande biorreator de aço, que funciona como um tanque de fermentação.Depois de quatro a seis semanas, o material é "colhido" do biorreator e adiciona-se alguma proteína vegetal. Em seguida, é modelado, queimado e impresso em 3D para obter a forma e a textura necessárias.As tiras de frango frito no meu prato com macarrão orecchiette certamente tinham gosto de frango normal, embora um pouco processado.Talvez o tipo de frango que você comeria em um restaurante de fast food."É carne, é perfeita!", disse Caterina, uma estudante italiana que veio aqui especialmente para experimentar o frango criado no laboratório.Normalmente, por questões de sustentabilidade, eu não comeria carne, mas Caterina garantiu que eu comeria isso.Sua única objeção? O frango é servido com macarrão, o que não costuma acontecer na Itália.Outro cliente em Singapura disse que ficou surpreso com o fato de o frango de laboratório parecer tanto com carne de verdade."É legítimo", disse ele. "Eu não saberia de onde veio. Minha única preocupação seria o custo." Mais O prato de macarrão com frango que pedi custou US$ 13,70 (R$ 65,91, na cotação atual), mas está com um grande desconto em relação ao custo de produção dessa carne.A Eat Just não diz exatamente quanto gasta para fazer seu frango, mas a capacidade de produção da empresa é atualmente de 3 kg por semana em Singapura.Quando você compara isso com os 4.000 a 5.000 kg de frango convencional vendidos semanalmente apenas na Huber's, você tem uma ideia da escala da tarefa que a empresa enfrenta.Simplificando, eles precisarão aumentar massivamente a produção para evitar perdas em cada porção de frango.A Eat Just observa que já alcançou uma redução de 90% nos custos desde 2018. A empresa me levou para um tour por sua nova unidade de produção multimilionária em Singapura, que espera abrir em 2024.O par de biorreatores de aço brilhante de 6.000 litros é certamente um sinal de que a intenção existe, mas é uma pequena fração das milhões de toneladas de frango que precisam ser produzidas para se igualar ao preço atual do frango tradicional.A indústria implora por paciência, mas muitos cientistas dizem que já viram o suficiente."A narrativa que essas empresas apresentam é muito forte", disse Ricardo San Martín, codiretor do Alt: Meat Lab, da Universidade da Califórnia (UC), em Berkeley."Mas você tem que contrastar esse discurso com a ciência", acrescentou. "Faça as contas, olhe para cada artigo científico escrito por especialistas independentes e você verá que a resposta é clara.""Você pode fazer isso, em escala, a um custo razoável? Não. Você pode falar sobre salvar o mundo com isso? Novamente, não. Essas empresas precisam ser honestas. Isso é uma ilusão."Não há apenas dúvidas sobre a possibilidade de aumentar a produção. Também há incerteza sobre as credenciais verdes da indústria, que foram questionadas pelos cientistas.Em teoria, reduzir a dependência da terra e do gado para a produção de carne deveria reduzir as emissões de carbono. Mas, por enquanto, a tecnologia necessária para criar carne cultivada em laboratório requer tanta energia que anula qualquer benefício.Um estudo da Universidade da Califórnia em Davis chegou a estimar que o processo produz entre 4 e 25 vezes mais dióxido de carbono do que a carne comum. No entanto, a East Just chama esse estudo de "problemático".Quando questionada pela BBC se todo o projeto poderia falhar, Josh Tetrickz, do Eat Just, respondeu: "Claro"."Fazer carne dessa maneira é necessário e muito incerto", disse ele."Não é fácil. É complicado. Não é garantido e pode não funcionar. Mas a outra opção para nós seria não fazer nada. Então decidimos apostar e tentar."Muitos investidores decidiram fazer a mesma aposta. Estima-se que US$ 2,8 bilhões (R$ 13,47 bilhões) tenham sido investidos até agora este ano no desenvolvimento da carne de laboratório.No entanto, tentar tornar a carne cultivada artificialmente mais do que uma alternativa de nicho para os ricos do mundo desenvolvido dependerá de investimentos de empresas privadas. E pode não ser suficiente.Os governos, observou Tetrick, precisarão investir "uma quantia significativa de dinheiro público" em carne de laboratório para que ela possa competir com a carne convencional."É como fazer a transição para energia renovável... É um projeto para toda a vida, talvez um projeto para várias vidas", disse ele.Até agora, nenhum país exceto Singapura autorizou a venda de carne cultivada artificialmente, muito menos se comprometeu com qualquer grande investimento.De acordo com Ricardo San Martín, da UC Berkeley, o financiamento público e privado para empresas de carne de laboratório vai secar se essas empresas não "se olharem no espelho" em breve e apresentarem previsões realistas aos investidores."A menos que haja um caminho claro para o sucesso em algum momento no futuro, investidores e governos não vão querer gastar dinheiro em algo que não seja cientificamente comprovado."Este texto foi publicado originalmente aqui. | comida |
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] | A chef Giovanna Grossi, à frente do restaurante Animus, em São Paulo, tem na panela de ferro sua paixão. "Uso na brasa, na indução, no forno e até na churrasqueira." Mesmo apreço pelo ferro tem Tuca Mezzomo, chef do Charco e do Vista. "É perfeita para fazer crosta caramelizada de algumas receitas de arroz."Embora o material seja tradicional, as peças que os cozinheiros usam entram na categoria de sonho de consumo: com revestimento interno esmaltado, são da marca francesa Staub, com preços que chegam a quatro dígitos.Para quem gosta de cozinhar, o portfólio de panelas à venda anda tentador. É cada vez mais variado em termos de materiais, cores, formatos e promessas relacionadas à resistência e facilidade de limpar.Consultora de produtos da Espaço Dragonetti, que vende utensílios de cozinha há 58 anos, Claudia Dragonetti conta que a preocupação com saúde e segurança tem pautado as escolhas da clientela —exigir o selo de inspeção do Instituto Nacional de Metrologia, Qualidade e Tecnologia (Inmetro) é sua recomendação."As de alumínio que nossas avós usavam, por exemplo, são muito procuradas por quem faz doces caseiros. Nelas, é mais fácil controlar o ponto do caramelo." Por mais bonitos e atraentes que sejam os lançamentos, ela reconhece que ainda há bastante demanda pelas panelas mais baratas de materiais conhecidos, como alumínio e ferro.Conhecer as propriedades de cada material é o primeiro passo para escolher bem. A seguir, o engenheiro especializado em materiais Guilherme Wolf Lebrão, professor do Instituto Mauá de Tecnologia, explica as propriedades que determinam como usá-las. Para completar, chefs dão exemplos de receitas que funcionam em cada caso. Mais Imbatíveis no preço (há modelos por menos de R$ 50), são leves e versáteis. Finas, esquentam rapidamente e não retêm calor por muito tempo, o que pode ser vantajoso, diz Mezzomo. "São boas para molhos como carbonara e cacio pepe. Para interromper o cozimento, basta retirar do fogo."O alumínio transfere partículas para a comida, o que é prejudicial à saúde, mas panelas certificadas têm película protetora. "Não se deve limpá-las com abrasivos. Arear a panela remove a camada de proteção", adverte Lebrão.Preparos ácidos, como molho de tomate, também aceleram a degradação da proteção. São ideais para fritar por imersão, fazer massas, molhos sem tomate e calda de açúcar —é mais fácil controlar o ponto do caramelo.No começo dos anos 1980, o brasileiro foi apresentado ao polímero politetrafluoretileno (PTFE), o teflon. O revestimento é fácil de limpar e seu preço também ajuda na popularidade. A condução de calor é rápida, como a do alumínio puro, mas a manutenção exige cuidados —quando ultrapassa os 200ºC, o material antiaderente começa a se degradar."Nesse caso, mesmo que o teflon não esteja se soltando, libera moléculas tóxicas que podem contaminar alimentos", diz Lebrão. Pior ainda se o teflon estiver riscado, descascando ou formando bolhas —é o caso de aposentar a panela.Funciona bem para grelhar sem gordura, fazer salteados rápidos e preparos cremosos que grudam com facilidade. Assim como as de alumínio puro, só podem ser usadas em cooktops por indução se o fundo tiver metal ferroso ou inox na composição.A baixa condutividade —demora para esquentar e para esfriar— a torna atraente para pratos de longo cozimento. Ao mesmo tempo, requer cuidados: deve, por exemplo, ser curada com água e óleo antes de fazer seu primeiro uso."A panela racha fácil com choque térmico e não é indicada para alimentos sem caldo, porque grudam. Leva dez minutos para aquecer e continua fervendo por muito tempo, mesmo depois da chama desligada", diz a chef capixaba Angelita Gonzaga. Usada em pratos como moqueca, torta capixaba e feijoada.Por ser um material estável, não há migração de partículas para a comida. Por isso, panelas de outros materiais são revestidas internamente de cerâmica. Segundo Lebrão, suporta altíssimas temperaturas e, como o barro, demora para aquecer e para esfriar.Sua maior desvantagem é a baixa resistência, pois quebra com facilidade. Usada nos mesmos preparos indicados para as panelas de barro.Mais resistente à corrosão pelos ácidos, cortes e impactos, ganha do alumínio em durabilidade —mas costuma ter preço mais salgado.Conduz calor com rapidez, por isso surgiram modelos de fundo triplo. "As camadas sobrepostas reduzem a condutividade e prolongam o cozimento", afirma o professor.Para Tuca Mezzomo, receitas nas quais os elementos são incorporados aos poucos se favorecem do inox. "Você adiciona ingredientes em várias etapas, sem que o preparo que já está na panela esfrie."Essa mesma propriedade exige atenção do cozinheiro —depois que se desliga o fogo, a panela continua cozinhando. Pode ser usada em picadinho, para apurar o tempero do feijão e fazer refogados que formem crosta. Também funciona em cooktops por indução.O ferro da composição migra para alimentos, por isso cozinhar nessa panela é receita antiga para combater anemia —excesso do mineral, porém, pode até causar doenças.Pesadas, não são práticas para o dia a dia. Mas nesta categoria, entram sonhos de consumo, como as panelas francesas Le Creuset e Staub, ambas com revestimento esmaltado que facilita a limpeza. É um luxo para poucos, que pode ultrapassar os R$ 3.000.Para o chef Marcelo Giachini, do restaurante Imma, as importadas valem a pena. "Além de distribuir o calor de maneira uniforme, no fundo e nas laterais, são esmaltadas e não grudam ou enferrujam."Ideal para selar carnes, executar receitas de longa cocção e pratos cujo preparo comece no fogo e termine no forno, como braseados —desde que a tampa não seja de plástico. Vão a cooktops por indução.Anunciadas na TV, combinam diferentes materiais, como alumínio, carbono e cerâmica. Segundo Lebrão, a intenção é aproveitar o melhor de cada um.Os preparos são semelhantes aos da versão antiaderente —em geral, alimentos que podem grudar no fundo—, mas é preciso tomar cuidado para não danificar, com o uso de utensílios, a camada de cerâmica. | comida |
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] | O casal mais famoso do teatro deu nome a uma tradicional combinação de sabores que pode ser incorporada a diferentes pratos. Em formato de musse, o tradicional Romeu e Julieta também é uma boa pedida para este Dia dos Namorados, na segunda-feira (12).O preparo é bem simples —mas se quiser deixá-lo ainda mais descomplicado, é só pular a etapa da "tuille", uma espécie de biscoitinho que vai na decoração. Mas, atenção: apesar de prática, a musse exige antecedência para que a compota de goiaba possa descansar na geladeira.A receita do creme que parece uma musse leve da chef Renata Vanzetto ganha o nome Romeu e Juliema, numa brincadeira com o título de seu restaurante Ema, na Consolação. A cozinheira também é dona de casas como o Mico e o MeGusta, localizadas na região central de São Paulo. Mais Rendimento: 6 a 8 unidades Tempo de preparo: 30 minutosCompota de goiaba:Creme Santa Tereza:Tuille:Crumble:Modo de preparo:Montagem: | comida |
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] | Apesar de não ser das receitas mais complicadas, fazer uma tarte tatin também não chega a ser das tarefas mais simples do mundo. É preciso caramelizar as maçãs da torta sem que passem do ponto enquanto a massa assa até ficar crocante. Basta atenção ao preparo, porém, para se chegar ao resultado perfeito, que compensa as etapas de preparo: maçãs douradas, macias e com sabor de caramelo intenso.Além de gostosa, ela também chama a atenção, com as fatias da fruta invertidas, viradas para cima, o que a torna perfeita para impressionar no Dia dos Namorados, que acontece nesta segunda-feira (12).A receita, que pode ser feita na véspera, é da cozinheira e escritora Heloisa Bacellar, que esteve à frente do Lá da Venda, na Vila Madalena, e publica receitas em seu site, o Na Cozinha com Helô. Se quiser variar o preparo, ela indica fazer a torta com pera ou manga no lugar da maçã. Mais Outra dica de Helô é servir a torta ainda quente com sorvete de baunilha ou com creme de leite batido em chantilly com uma colherada de iogurte cremoso. Veja a seguir.Rendimento: 6 porções Tempo de preparo: 1h45IngredientesPara a maçã:Para a massa:Modo de preparoMassa:Maçã e caramelo:Montagem: | comida |
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] | O prêmio Decanter World Wine, um dos mais importantes do mundo dos vinhos, concedeu medalhas de ouro às vinícolas brasileiras Amitié e Ferreira na edição deste ano, divulgada nesta quarta-feira (7).Realizada em Londres, a competição avaliou cerca de 18 mil rótulos de 57 países, com ajuda de 236 jurados. Participantes podiam levar medalhas de bronze, prata, ouro e a distinção mais alta, de platina —alcançada por 124 produtores.O rótulo premiado da Amitié, da Serra Gaúcha, foi o vinho branco Viognier, um dos lançamentos mais recentes de seu catálogo. Custa R$ 99,80 no site da Amité. Trata-se do primeiro monovarietal (vinho feito com apenas uma uva) do Brasil a receber medalha de ouro na DWWA. Em sua descrição, ele se apresenta como um vinho branco com "notas frutadas, lembrando pêssego e tangerina, e um toque delicado de pétalas de rosas brancas". Mais A vinícola Amitié foi fundada pela enóloga Juciane Casagrande e pela sommelière Andreia Gentilini Milan em 2018. Além dos vinhos tranquilos (aqueles sem borbulhas), a vinícola também produz espumantes, que eram o carro-chefe nos primeiros anos atuação. Elas começaram com cinco rótulos e, hoje, a linha é composta por dez.Já o vinho premiado pela Vinícola Ferreira foi o tinto Piquant Soléil Syrah, que custa R$ 288 no site da marca, na safra de 2020. O perfil, de acordo com a premiação, traz aromas de cerejas e especiarias picantes.A vinícola fica a mais de 1.600 metros de altitude no lado mineiro da Serra da Mantiqueira. Tem apenas dez anos de vida e recebe visitantes sob reserva para almoço. | comida |
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] | De alta qualidade e com a vantagem de chegar mais fresco do que muitos importados à mesa do consumidor, o azeite nacional costuma ser disputado. Tanto que, apesar do preço mais elevado, uma parcela desses rótulos é comercializada antes de ser engarrafada.Para ajudar o consumidor a descobrir essa produção, a Folha organizou um painel com azeites de marcas nacionais reconhecidas cuja safra acaba de chegar ao mercado.A degustação foi feita às escuras, e reuniu inicialmente uma amostra de 20 rótulos extravirgens diferentes de dez produtores —apenas o melhor exemplar de cada um deles foi considerado. Tanto azeites monovarietais (aqueles feitos com uma qualidade de azeitona) quanto blends fizeram parte da seleção. As amostras foram enviadas, a pedido da reportagem, pelos produtores.Participaram da avaliação a especialista Ana Beloto, consultora na área, Patrícia Galasini, presidente da Câmara Setorial de Olivicultura do Estado de São Paulo, e Sandro Marques, autor de "Extrafresco: Guia de Azeites Brasileiros", que tem edição bianual e cobre toda a produção do país.A degustação faz parte da seção de avaliações Folha Prova, que oferece ao leitor um guia de compra e uso —nas primeiras edições, café e vinho branco foram temas abordados. O resultado não é um ranking, mas uma lista de produtos recomendados ao final de cada prova."Foi uma amostra bem significativa da produção nacional", afirma Marques. "É bom constatar que seguimos crescendo em qualidade. Estamos aprendendo, por exemplo, a fazer blends cada vez melhores", continua ele.Neste ano, as duas principais regiões produtoras, a Serra da Mantiqueira (neste caso, a divisa de São Paulo e Minas Gerais) e o Rio Grande do Sul, tiveram resultados opostos em suas colheitas devido às condições climáticas. Mais No Sudeste do país, segundo o presidente da Assoolive (Associação dos Olivicultores dos Contrafortes da Mantiqueira), Moacir Nascimento, a produção caiu cerca de 50% em relação ao ano anterior.Foi o que aconteceu com a fazenda onde é produzido o azeite Sabiá, em Santo Antônio do Pinhal, em São Paulo. Em agosto passado, as oliveiras da propriedade de Bia Pereira e Bob Vieira da Costa estavam cheias de brotos. "Achei que seria a melhor colheita da história", conta Bia.Em setembro, no entanto, começou a chover muito forte todos os dias. Boa parte das flores caiu e, com isso, vieram poucos frutos. O resultado foi uma produção que não chegou a um terço daquela obtida um ano antes. Mais Por outro lado, na outra fazenda do casal, em Encruzilhada da Serra, no Rio Grande do Sul, a seca (que devastou outras culturas na região) garantiu colheita fantástica de azeitonas: o dobro da de 2022.No Sul do Brasil, de acordo com Renato Fernandes, presidente do Ibraoliva (Instituto Brasileiro de Olivicultura), a colheita de azeitonas de 2023 deve garantir uma produção de azeites no mínimo 10% superior à produção de 2022 —que foi o dobro da de 2021.Bons azeites extravirgens não se fazem sozinhos. "É preciso, por exemplo, colher no ponto de maturação ideal para dar ao mesmo tempo rentabilidade e características sensoriais desejadas", diz Ana Beloto, autora do livro "Azeite-se" (ed. Rona; 288 págs.).No lagar, onde o azeite é produzido, é a mesma coisa. "Precisamos buscar uma regulagem das máquinas que garanta o resultado desejado. Se a temperatura, por exemplo, estiver muito fria, se extrai pouco azeite. Muito quente, altera as características sensoriais."Como esse consumo ainda é de nicho no Brasil, que produz, de forma geral, azeite extravirgem premium, muitos consumidores ainda têm dúvida sobre como dar os primeiros passos nesse universo. "Cada pessoa tem um paladar", diz Patrícia Galasini, também professora do Senac-Aclimação. "Mais comum é preferir os ‘doces’ de início. Então, sugiro começar com esses produtos de perfil mais suave e caminhar para os mais picantes e amargos. O paladar é uma construção."Confira a seguir a lista dos azeites mais bem avaliados durante a degustação.Bem-Te-Vi Arbequina e Arbosana De Encruzilhada do Sul (RS), remete a ervas, como tomilho, manjericão e orégano. "Aqui eu usaria a regra do menos é mais, comeria com uma massa e molho vermelho apenas", afirma Ana Beloto. Preço: R$ 45 (250 ml), em loja.azeitebemtevi.com.brCasa Marchio Koroneiki Ideal para quem gosta de sabores mais amargos. No nariz, traz folhas escuras como rúcula e agrião. "Fica bom sobre uma carne grelhada", diz Sandro Marques. Preço R$ 50. Tel.: (51) 99971-0663, em casamarchio.com.brEstância das Oliveiras Frantoio Chama a atenção no azeite, produzido em Viamão, a 28 km de Porto Alegre, o aroma de grama recém-cortada. Aparecem ainda rúcula, agrião e alcachofra. "Tem equilíbrio entre amargor e picância", diz Ana Beloto. Combina com folhas escuras e feijão-branco. Preço: R$ 120 (250 ml), na Azeite Experience. Tel.: (11) 98188-1645Irarema Intenso Feito com as azeitonas koroneiki e grappolo em São Sebastião da Grama, divisa de São Paulo e Minas, tem "aromas de folhas verdes", diz Patrícia Galasini. Versátil, funciona de saladas a escabeches. Preço: R$ 64,90 (250 ml), em azeiteexperience.comMilonga Arbequina Retrato Tem aromas herbáceos que remetem a talo de couve e grama cortada. "É um exemplo do que é chamado de frutado verde nos azeites", diz Patrícia. Equilibrado, tem picância e amargor médios. "Comeria com feijão, farofa e couve refogada." Feito em Triunfo, a cerca de 80 km de Porto Alegre. Preço: R$ 95 (500ml) em azeitemilonga.com.brOrfeu Blend da Safra Supreendeu por estar bastante maduro. Blend de koroneiki, arbequina, grappolo, coratina e picual agrada quem está iniciando no mundo dos azeites especiais. Preço R$ 219(350 ml), em cafeorfeu.com.brSabiá Blend de Terroir Blend que combina as variedades coratina, koroneiki e arbosana, das duas fazendas da marca (Sul e Mantiqueira). Complexo, intenso e equilibrado, tem especiarias e aromas florais. Harmoniza com peixes e frutos-do-mar. Preço: R$ 94 (250 ml), lojaazeitesabia.com.brVertentes Novas Vertentes Blend das variedades coratina, arbequina, grappolo, koroneiki e arbosana, de Andrelândia (MG). Suave e complexo ao mesmo tempo, tem frutado maduro que lembra maçã, banana e goiaba branca. Pede um prato delicado a exemplo de um risoto de ervilha ou doces como cheesecake. Preço: R$ 89 (250ml), em fazendavertentes.com.brVienzo Koroneiki Instalada no município de Rancho Queimado, A Quinta do Vienzo é pioneira na produção de azeites em Santa Catarina. Este exemplar da variedade koroneiki se destaca pelas notas de maçã, banana e flores. "Deve ficar bom com comida árabe, que pede algo um pouco mais ‘doce’", diz Sandro Marques. Preço: R$ 60 (250 ml) em quintadovienzo.com.br | comida |
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] | Com muitas combinações possíveis, o arroz-doce é uma das receitas de mais sucesso na temporada de Festa Junina que acaba de chegar.Heloísa Bacellar, do blog Na Cozinha com Helô, ensina a receita clássica com o apelido carinhoso de "arroz-doce de casa de avó".Trazido pelos portugueses, a sobremesa é encontrada também na França, conhecida como "riz au lait" , e no México, como arroz "dulce con leche".Confira a receita abaixo.ARROZ DOCE TRADICIONALRendimento: 6 porções Preparo: 45 minutos (+ duas horas para esfriar)Ingredientes2 xícaras (chá) de água1 fita larga de casca de laranja sem a parte branca1 fita larga de casca de limão sem a parte branca1 pedaço de uns 2 cm de canela em pau2 cravos¾ de xícara de (chá) de arroz branco bem lavado e escorrido1 e ½ xícara de leite1 xícara de açúcar1 colher (chá) de essência natural de baunilha1 gema1 colher (sopa) de açúcar1 colher (sopa) de manteiga geladaCanela em pó para polvilhar Mais PreparoPara começar, numa panela média, aqueça a água, as cascas de laranja, de limão, a canela em pau e o cravo.Quando ferver, conte um minuto, junte o arroz e cozinhe com a panela tampada parcialmente por uns 15 minutos, até que os grãos estejam macios.Em seguida, abaixe o fogo, junte o leite e o açúcar e cozinhe por mais uns 20 minutos, até formar um creme ralo, ligeiramente brilhante que cubra o dorso da colher com uma camada fina. Risque com a ponta do dedo para testar. É fundamental não deixar encorpar muito, pois ele firma após esfriar. Descarte as cascas de laranja e de limão, a canela e o cravo.Enquanto o arroz cozinha, misture numa tigelinha a baunilha, a gema, o açúcar até obter uma pasta, reserve.Quando o arroz engrossar, coloque essa pasta e a manteiga na panela do arroz doce e misture por mais 3 a 5 minutos, apenas até ferver de novo e encorparRetire o arroz-doce do fogo e transfira para tigela de servirDeixe esfriar por duas horas em temperatura ambiente e sirva ou leve à geladeira por até dois dias se quiser servir geladoPolvilhe com canela na hora de servir | comida |
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] | A chef Nelsa Trombino, fundadora do Xapuri, um dos restaurantes mais tradicionais de Belo Horizonte, morreu nesta terça-feira, dia 30, aos 84 anos. A informação foi divulgada nas redes sociais da casa mineira nesta quarta (31). A causa da morte não foi informada.Mais conhecida como dona Nelsa, a cozinheira virou uma das referências na gastronomia mineira. Ela nasceu em Cubatão, em São Paulo, em 1938, e se mudou para Minas Gerais. Começou cozinhando para amigos e parentes até que fundou o restaurante de comida feita no fogão a lenha em 1987, na região da Pampulha.Em entrevista à Folha, em 2007, ela disse que se mudou para Minas depois que casou. "Fui morar na fazenda do meu sogro, em Lagoa da Prata. Ali, eu vivenciei a tradição mineira dentro de uma bela fazenda, com um pomar enorme. Aprendi realmente a cultura mineira, a maneira de matar um porco, de fazer linguiça, com carne cortada, não moída", disse na época.Sua filha mais velha recomendou, então, que abrisse o próprio restaurante. "Fizemos um quiosquinho pequeno, uma cozinha minúscula, uma pia horrorosa, um fogão à lenha e dois tanquezinhos. Era um quiosque para 30, 40 pessoas. De boca a boca, um foi falando para o outro onde ficava o restaurante", ela disse. Mais O restaurante, que traz cardápio de pratos típicos mineiros, foi ampliado e se tornou um dos mais disputados de Belo Horizonte. Xapuri significa rio manso e foi inspirado no nome da propriedade de um parente. A história de dona Nelsa é contada ainda no documentário "A Dona do Tacho", dirigido por Marcelo Wanderley e lançado em 2021.Em 2013, quando Dona Nelsa começou a ter problemas de saúde, a chefia do negócio foi passada para seu filho, Flávio Trombino, que continua à frente do endereço.O restaurante não funcionará nesta quarta-feira. Ele volta a receber os clientes na quinta-feira, dia 1º de junho.Uma cerimônia de despedida será realizada nesta quarta-feira no Cerimonial Raja, na capital mineira, das 16h às 20h. Dona Nelsa deixa três filhos e quatro netas. | comida |
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] | Pela primeira vez, a cerimônia de premiação dos melhores restaurantes da América Latina do 50 Best vai acontecer no Brasil, no dia 28 de novembro, no hotel Copacabana Palace, no Rio de Janeiro.Na data, serão anunciados os vencedores da edição deste ano do prêmio —que, nos últimos anos, foi encabeçado por restaurantes peruanos, mas que vem contando com maior presença de brasileiros.O anúncio foi feito nesta quinta-feira (31) pela manhã no Rio de Janeiro, por Charles Reed, CEO do Latin America's 50 Best Restaurants, e pelo prefeito da cidade, Eduardo Paes (PSD) —a cidade do Rio de Janeiro é patrocinadora do evento.A premiação, um dos braços regionais do ranking global World’s 50 Best, já aconteceu antes no Peru, na Colômbia, Argentina e no México.Era, há tempos, era um desejo da comunidade de chefs e donos de restaurantes que também acontecesse no Brasil —já que comparecem à cerimônia jurados e imprensa estrangeira, o que contribui para que restaurantes locais sejam visitados e tenham mais destaque em futuras edições. Mais No ano passado, o Brasil teve seu melhor ano na premiação: foram 10 brasileiros entre os 50 melhores, com destaque para A Casa do Porco, novamente na quarta posição.O Oteque, de Alberto Landgraf, no Rio de Janeiro, foi o segundo melhor colocado do Brasil (12º). Três novos restaurantes brasileiros estrearam na lista: Nelita (39), Charco (35) e Metzi (27), todos em São Paulo. Na mesma cidade, o D.O.M, de Alex Atala, caiu 20 posições.As duas primeiras posições ficaram com o peruano Central e o argentino Don Julio. | comida |
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] | Pratos de massa sempre lembram refeição em família. A receita da parmegiana com macarrão do chef Fellipe Zanuto, à frente do Hospedaria e das pizzarias Onnestà e A Pizza da Mooca, em São Paulo, é um desses exemplos.O preparo é inspirado na cozinha de sua avó: ele conta que a matriarca colocava o macarrão no forno para manter aquecido enquanto preparava o almoço da família. "Trouxe isso para o restaurante e faço questão de colocar no forno a lenha para trazer aquele gostinho extra", diz o chef.Veja a receita abaixo.PARMEGIANA COM MACARRÃORendimento: 4 porções Preparo: 1 horaIngredientes bifeIngredientes macarrão Mais Preparo bifePreparo macarrão | comida |
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] | Conhecida por marcas como Skol, Brahma e Antarctica, a Ambev quer ir além das cervejas e aposta no mercado de vinhos no Brasil. A empresa começa a distribuir tintos, brancos e espumantes da vinícola argentina Dante Robino, comprada em fevereiro de 2020.Os vinhos estão disponíveis para compra desde a última terça-feira (23) no site de Dante Robino e a partir desta quinta-feira (25) estarão em plataformas de ecommerce como Zé Delivery, Amazon, Magalu, além de pontos de vendas físicos.A data marca também o centenário da vinícola, localizada na cidade de Mendoza, na Argentina.A ampliação de mercado da Ambev começou ainda em 2021, quando criou uma unidade de negócios para lançar bebidas alcoólicas, como vinho, gim e vodca. Inicialmente, os vinhos da Dante Robino eram trazidos ao país via importadoras, com poucos rótulos no mercado. Agora, por meio da Ambev, a produção da vinícola argentina chega ao Brasil com mais opções. Mais Em um primeiro momento, o portfólio apresenta quatros linhas: Novencento, por R$ 49,90; Dante Robino, por R$ 89,90; Legado, por R$ 129,90 e Gran Dante, por R$ 219,90. Entre as opções de uvas, destacam-se a Malbec, a mais tradicional entre os vinhos argentinos e muito popular no Brasil, e a Bonarda, uma uva ainda pouco conhecida no país, trazida para expandir seu mercado. | comida |
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] | A Folha lança nesta quarta-feira (24), quando é celebrado o Dia Nacional do Café, o blog Café na Prensa, que vai abordar diferentes aspectos relacionados a uma das bebidas mais consumidas do mundo. O espaço também vai debater questões econômicas, ambientais e comportamentais relacionadas ao assunto, além de apresentar tendências de consumo —a seção Espressos é dedicada a notas com novidades do setor.O café é a segunda bebida mais consumida do país —atrás apenas da água— e está presente em 98% dos domicílios brasileiros, segundo a Abic (Associação Brasileira da Indústria de Café). O Brasil, além de estar entre os maiores consumidores, é o maior produtor mundial de grãos e exporta sobretudo para os Estados Unidos, a Europa e o Japão.O blog é assinado pelo jornalista David Lucena, editor-adjunto da Folhapress, agência de notícias do Grupo Folha. Alagoano, Lucena começou a se interessar pelo assunto há cerca de uma década no efervescente cenário de cafés especiais de São Paulo, onde teve contato com diferentes grãos e torras. Mais Desde então, cultiva o hábito de tomar café por onde passa, seja em feiras no sertão nordestino, acompanhado por uma tapioca com coco, seja em conceituadas cafeterias do mundo, de Oslo a Nova York.No primeiro texto, o blog vai discutir o hábito de adoçar a bebida —que foi, durante muito tempo, visto como uma maneira de disfarçar a baixa qualidade ou defeitos do grão. O texto vai debater essa visão e mostrar como o costume de adoçar o café se moldou no Brasil.Receba no seu email uma seleção de colunas e blogs da Folha; exclusiva para assinantes.Carregando...Na sequência, a página vai trazer uma entrevista com o barista norueguês Tim Wendelboe, referência mundial no processo de torra e preparo da bebida. Wendelboe já foi comparado pelo jornal Financial Times a René Redzepi, chef do restaurante Noma, eleito o melhor do mundo cinco vezes segundo o The World’s 50 Best Restaurants, que produz rankings regionais e globais do setor.O Café na Prensa junta-se a outros blogs que a Folha já tem na área gastronômica, como Cozinha Bruta, que apresenta receitas, Copo Cheio, sobre cerveja, Nação Churrasqueira e o Terra Vegana. | comida |
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] | O jovem enólogo japonês Issei Tomine precisa identificar um vinho em um teste às cegas para conseguir um emprego. Apenas sentindo os aromas, sem tomar um gole, ele crava a porcentagem das uvas e dispara: "Côtes de Franc, Château Le Puy, Cuvée Barthélémy 2017". Na mosca.Enquanto isso, na França, em Châteauneuf-du-Pape, a escritora Camille tenta reorganizar seus sentidos treinados na infância pelo pai, o enólogo e crítico Alexandre Léger. Ela não pode beber álcool e precisa aprender a reconhecer rótulos com precisão, já que disputa com Tomine, ex-aluno de Léger, a herança do pai, uma adega de vinhos raros avaliada em US$ 148 milhões.A junção de vinícolas, técnica de avaliação e rótulos com a fantasia sobre sentidos superaguçados postos à prova dá o tom de "Gotas Divinas". A nova série da Apple TV+ é uma adaptação do mangá homônimo que ajudou a impulsionar o mercado da bebida na Ásia.Publicado entre 2004 e 2014 em 44 volumes, "Kami no Shizuku" trazia o duelo entre o filho de um crítico de vinhos recém-morto e seu pupilo mais brilhante. Os dois personagens japoneses precisavam identificar os rótulos de 12 vinhos a partir de pistas e descrições deixadas pelo enólogo numa missão tão atraente quanto inverossímil. A série segue quase o mesmo mapa, mas de maneira mais concisa.A grande sacada dos criadores da HQ, os irmãos Shin e Yuko Kibayashi, sob o pseudônimo de Tadashi Agi, e da desenhista Shu Okimoto, foi apresentar rótulos e vinicultores reais na trama. Cada edição passava uma sensação de educação enológica aos leitores e servia como guia de compras para os mais interessados. A publicação chegou a ser lida por 300 milhões de pessoas. Mais As referências de "Kami no Shizuku" eram aguardadas semanalmente pelas lojas e importadoras. Na Coreia do Sul, os vendedores enfeitavam as prateleiras de vinhos com cartazes com as indicações do mangá. Vinícolas reais elogiadas na história ficcional chegavam a ter suas vendas até 130% maiores na Ásia.Caso do então desconhecido Château Mont Perat, que, em dois dias, vendeu 600 garrafas do seu blend de Bordeaux 2001 para clientes de Taiwan. O vinho, que custava US$ 15, passou a US$ 150. O mesmo aconteceu com o Château Le Puy, da sub-região de Francs Côtes de Bordeaux: a safra 2003 se esgotou por causa da aparição no mangá. Garrafas circulavam no mercado valendo mais de US$ 1.000.Com o sucesso, os irmãos Shin e Yuko Kibayashi abriram um clube de assinaturas de vinhos nos Estados Unidos, lançaram um game de degustação para celular e foram condecorados pelo governo francês com a Ordem do Mérito Agrícola e Ordem das Artes e das Letras.A série tomou liberdades em relação à obra. E, apesar de algumas garrafas aparecerem ao longo da temporada, "Gotas Divinas" evita servir de promoção de rótulos reais. Mais "Quando criei os desafios da série, não escolhi o vinho e depois escrevi o roteiro. Eu inventava os duelos e, então, o consultor de vinhos [Sébastien Pradal] me apresentava alguns rótulos que combinavam com a descrição", diz o roteirista Quoc Dang Tran, que já assinou episódios das séries "Dix Pour Cent" e "Marianne".Quando precisa dar destaque para certos vinhos, a ficção toma o lugar da realidade. Há uma garrafa de US$ 10 mil do Touraine-Domaine Gigon-Cépage 1990, vinho que não existe. Camille, quando treinava com seu pai na infância em Châteuneuf-du-Pape, ia para o Domaine Chassangre, vinícola ficcional, mas ambientado no famoso Château de Beaucastel. As descrições, no entanto, são todas reais, como a localização geográfica."Se as pessoas seguirem certos passos mostrados na série, elas vão aprender mais sobre vinhos, com certeza", diz a protagonista Fleur Geffrier, que treinou para seguir os métodos dos sommeliers, da identificação dos aromas à abertura correta das garrafas."Meu interesse é despertar o interesse das pessoas sobre vinho, que, no fim das contas, é sobre convivência", afirma o roteirista Dang Tran. "Você não compra um vinho caríssimo para beber sozinho na sala." Mais "Gotas Divinas" apresenta duas escolas na formação de um enólogo. A primeira é a mais tradicional, com Issei Tomine, interpretado por Tomohisa Yamashita, passando por cursos profissionalizantes.No Brasil, há cursos disponíveis para quem deseja se tornar um sommelier, profissional responsável por vinhos —entre eles o da Associação Brasileira de Sommeliers.Na maioria dos cursos, o aluno aprende a fazer a análise sensorial dos vinhos, a procedência dos rótulos, elaboração de menus e o processo básico da viticultura. Há um sistema de certificação por módulos que podem levar anos.O outro caminho apresentado na série da Apple TV+ é o de quem começou cedo na indústria. A personagem de Camille Léger foi basicamente criada numa vinícola em Châteauneuf-du-Pape, na França, com seu pai, um famoso enólogo, servindo como mentor. Mais Após a separação dos pais, ela se distanciou da enologia e só voltou para tentar conquistar sua herança em forma de vinhos raros. Para isso, precisou voltar aos estudos com ajuda do livro-caixa "Le Nez du Vin" —um método que traz 54 frascos com os aromas encontrados em vinhos. Para treinar, é preciso memorizar esses aromas e tentar adivinhá-los às escuras.O projeto é uma criação do francês Jean Lenoir, que morreu recentemente e passou o bastão para a filha, Viva Lenoir, que, assim como Camille, passou parte da vida tentando se afastar do mundo dos vinhos, mas terminou se reapaixonando pela bebida e hoje é CEO e responsável pela elaboração dos líquidos que vão nos frascos da caixa. O produto pode ser encomendado no Brasil pela De La Croix Vinhos (delacroixvinhos.com.br). | comida |
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] | Natural da pequena cidade de Rio Pardo, no Rio Grande do Sul, o gaúcho Rafael Panatieri decidiu que seria um grande cozinheiro aos 17 anos. Mas, naquela época, não poderia imaginar que 20 anos depois estaria à frente melhor pizzaria da Europa fora da Itália.Hoje ele é sócio da Sartoria Panatieri, em Barcelona, na Espanha, que ficou em primeiro lugar no ranking do renomado guia italiano 50 Top Pizza 2023.Aberta em 2018, essa pizzaria artesanal com filosofia sustentável já conta com duas unidades na cidade espanhola - e é resultado de uma jornada gastronômica que começou quando Rafael Panatieri ainda era garoto, em Rio Pardo.De família de origem italiana, ele conta que teve contato com ingredientes e preparos mediterrâneos desde cedo. Foi sua avó, conhecida por reunir a família em grandes almoços, quem despertou sua paixão pela cozinha.Antes de decidir ser chef, Rafael chegou a passar em um vestibular para estudar medicina veterinária. Ele lembra que, na época, ser cozinheiro não tinha o reconhecimento que tem hoje. Mas, mesmo diante das incertezas, ele teve a sorte de contar com o apoio da família para seguir adiante com seu sonho."O único chef que eu tinha como referência no Brasil era o Alex [Atala], mas, na época, a profissão não era bem vista", diz ele à BBC News Brasil.Após fazer um curso de cozinha no Senac no Rio Grande do Sul, Panatieri teve certeza de que esta seria sua carreira. Continuou então seus estudos no Centro Europeu de Curitiba e trabalhou em alguns dos melhores restaurantes de hotéis em Gramado.Ele tinha 22 anos quando decidiu sair do país, e como já tinha documentos italianos, desembarcou primeiro em Milão. Após vencer a burocracia do país, já com o passaporte vermelho (europeu) em mãos, focou em conquistar seu espaço nas cozinhas europeias."Sabia que tinha que me esforçar em dobro por não estar em casa, e aprender rápido o idioma. Acredito que o meu caráter mais 'sério' me ajudou a ser respeitado em cada lugar", conta o chef. Mais A esposa de Panatieri, Ana Carolina, se mudou para Europa seis meses depois. Farmacêutica, nunca havia trabalhado com hotelaria, mas conseguiu um trabalho como camareira na Itália. Foram quase quatro anos no país, e neste tempo o chef trabalhou em restaurantes da Sicília, Roma e Florença.Em uma viagem de fim de ano, o casal se encantou com a cidade de Barcelona. Eles fizeram as malas, ou melhor, as duas mochilas que tinham, e se mudaram para lá. Segundo ele, o ambiente cosmopolita da cidade espanhola é mais aberto a estrangeiros, e a gastronomia, mais livre para inovações."Eu gosto muito da cozinha italiana pela base, pela tradição e pelo carinho que eles têm com a comida, mas, na época, com 25 anos, eu queria ter essa visão na Espanha da cozinha de criatividade."O maior representante desse movimento na época era o chef Ferran Adrià, e a gastronomia molecular desenvolvida no restaurante El Bulli. Panatieri conta que mandou diversos e-mails para conseguir um estágio com o chef, mas sem sucesso."Quando Ferran Adrià fechou o El Bulli [em 2011], já se começava a falar dos irmãos Roca. Então meu foco se transformou em conseguir trabalhar com eles", afirma.Criadores do triestrelado restaurante Celler de Can Roca, os irmãos Joan, Josep e Jordi receberam Rafael como parte da família. Durante os seis anos em que trabalhou com os Roca, o brasileiro passou de estagiário a chef do restaurante Roca Moo."Representar um restaurante estrelado é o sonho de muitos, por isso minha autocobrança era diária. O que ninguém conta é que se manter no pódio é mais difícil que chegar."Foi entre as panelas do Roca Moo que Panatieri conheceu em 2016 o espanhol Jorge Sastre, seu atual sócio na pizzaria. O madrileño foi seu sous chef (subchefe) - e os dois tinham uma sintonia que dispensava palavras.Em 2018, eles abriram a primeira unidade da Sartoria Panatieri - uma pequena porta, de número 51, no charmoso bairro da Gràcia. Um espaço aconchegante com forno a lenha e jardim que viria a ser conhecido como a melhor pizzaria da Europa."Eu sempre sonhei em ter uma pizzaria, mas minhas experiências em restaurantes estrelados me levaram para outro caminho", conta o sócio brasileiro.O estabelecimento premiado se destaca por uma filosofia de respeito aos ingredientes locais e práticas sustentáveis."A ideia sempre foi criar com ingredientes locais. Os produtos italianos são excelentes, mas decidimos olhar para nosso entorno com carinho", diz Panatieri.Em 2021, os sócios abriram a segunda unidade, desta vez no agitado distrito de Eixample. Os clientes triplicaram - mas Panatieri e Sastre decidiram seguir adotando a mesma filosofia artesanal e sustentável.Chegar ao Olimpo do guia italiano 50 Top Pizza 2023 é resultado de um trabalho que vai muito além da massa e do recheio. Os rigorosos critérios do guia também avaliam a proposta do restaurante, o ambiente e a experiência do cliente. O segundo lugar ficou com a pizzaria Bæst, em Copenhagen; e o terceiro, com a 50 Kalò, do chef Ciro Salvo, em Londres."Acreditávamos estar entre os três primeiros, mas ser reconhecidos como melhor pizzaria da Europa fora da Itália foi uma ótima surpresa", diz Panatieri.Ele conta que antes da Sartoria nunca havia feito pizzas, além daquelas que testava em casa. Mas a passagem por cozinhas renomadas o ajudou a acelerar esse processo. Juntos, os sócios estudaram diferentes preparos, e, após diversas provas e erros, encontraram a fórmula perfeita."Eu queria que a nossa pizza fosse um prato completo, mas com a massa no lugar da porcelana", revela.O conceito "from farm to pizza" (da fazenda à pizza), criado pela Sartoria Panatieri, preza pela valorização dos ingredientes e também dos produtores locais. Segundo os sócios, o segredo do sucesso da Sartoria não está no forno a lenha - mas, sim, nas zonas rurais que cercam a cidade de Barcelona."Essa filosofia significa tudo para nós. É a proximidade com os produtores que nos leva a conseguir os melhores ingredientes, no melhor momento do ano", revela Panatieri.Um exemplo são os embutidos artesanais da fazenda ecológica Dpagès, em Lleida, na Catalunha. Para a fabricação da mortadela, do fuet e da sobrasada, são utilizados porcos Gascón, uma raça ibérica em perigo de extinção que a fazenda trabalha para recuperar.Já a massa das pizzas é feita com farinha ecológica - fermentada por mais de 70 horas."O trigo que utilizamos vem dos moinhos de pedra da fazenda Cal Pauet, em Solsona. É mais caro que o industrial, mas é o que mais se encaixou na nossa massa", afirma.A pizza que leva molho de tomates cereja assados, mozarella e molho holandês de manjericão foi eleita, também pelo guia italiano, a melhor pizza do ano de 2023."Quando se fala em pizza, a Margherita é a primeira que vem em mente. Minha ideia foi fazer ela de outra maneira, mas sem faltar com o respeito", explica Panatieri.Segundo o chef, um dos desafios de utilizar apenas ingredientes locais foi o de substituir o tradicional tomate italiano San Marzano, cultivado entre Nápoles e Salerno.Como solução, Rafael resgatou uma das lembranças mais fortes que guarda do Brasil: sua mãe e avó transformando tomates da região de Rio Pardo em molhos deliciosos.Para chegar no equilíbrio esperado entre acidez e dulçor, o chef desenvolveu então uma receita com tomates cereja locais assados no forno a lenha - e para finalizar a releitura, substituiu o manjericão in natura por um molho holandês com as folhas aromáticas. | comida |
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] | O Mercadão, um dos principais pontos turísticos de São Paulo, recebe a quarta edição do Festival de Gastronomia e Cultura, que vai de quinta (18) a domingo (21). A programação dá destaque à culinária da Espanha.Barracas de comidas variadas oferecem receitas típicas como paella, croquetas de frutos do mar, churros e puchero, um tipo de ensopado.No dia 20, o chef Eduardo Bonfim, do restaurante Vicky Barcelona, no Itaim Bibi, prepara um menu degustação com pratos espanhóis mais vinho ao preço de R$ 320.O evento ocorre das 10h às 16h com entrada gratuita, e conta ainda com apresentações de música e dança espanhola. Mais | comida |
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] | Esse banana bread (uma espécie de pão ou bolo de banana) se inclina definitivamente ao campo das sobremesas, graças aos bocados de creme de chocolate e de avelã na massa (ainda assim, pode ser servido também num café especial).Dourar a manteiga pode parecer um pouco complicado, mas vale o tempo e o esforço.O sabor tostado desse processo combina perfeitamente com as bananas. Afinal de contas, o termo francês para manteiga dourada na panela é "beurre noisette", que se traduz literalmente por "manteiga de nozes (ou avelã)". Mais Rendimento: Um pão de 22 cm Tempo total: 80 minutosIngredientes:Preparo:Mexa até que tudo fique incorporado e, em seguida, adicione a mistura de farinha, sal e bicarbonato e mexa até ficar uniforme, mas sem misturar demais. | comida |
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] | O molho unagi é um molho de soja doce e espesso, tradicionalmente utilizado em companhia de enguias grelhadas. Neste caso, uma receita simples de molho de soja com açúcar e mirim (espécie de saquê licoroso) ganha a adição de alho e gengibre, se transformando em uma cobertura saborosa para o salmão.Assim que o salmão é assado e laqueado no molho, se torna o recheio perfeito para hand rolls japoneses (no Brasil, chamados de temakis). Um temaki é montado com pedaços de salmão e um pouco de abacate e pepino crocante para criar um enrolado rico, fresco e crocante ao mesmo tempo. Mais Usar arroz de grão curto no recheio é o método tradicional, mas sobras de grãos, como farro ou quinoa, também podem ser usadas.Rendimento: quatro porções Tempo total: 30 minutosIngredientes:Preparo | comida |
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] | O restaurante Cozinha 212, na zona oeste de São Paulo, completa sete anos neste mês e promove uma série de encontros entre chefs para celebrar o aniversário.Os sócios da casa agitada, Victor Collor e Stefan Weitbrecht, convidam dez cozinheiros que vão se revezar na cozinha, em duplas, até junho. Eles vão criar pratos inéditos que passam pela brasa, marca do cardápio do 212. Os pratos vão custar R$ 56 cada.Os almoços são aos sábados. No próximo, dia 13, o chef Tomás Peñafiel, do Chimichurri Parrilla, e Luciano Nardelli, da pizzaria Carlos, são responsáveis pelas receitas na grelha. No dia 20, a dupla da vez é Benny Novak (Ici Bistrô) e André Mifano (Donna). Mais No último sábado de maio, assumem Gustavo Rodrigues (Lobozó) e Thiago Castanho (Remanso do Peixe). Para fechar, em 3/6, Thiago Bañares (Kotori), e Uilian Goya (Goya Sushi) dividem a cozinha. | comida |
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] | Entre todos os pratos de massa cozida, o conchiglione recheado costuma ser adorado, e por uma boa razão: o recheio fofo de ricota, o molho de tomate forte, o queijo derretido e o tamanho grande da massa criam a "comfort food" definitiva, e o aspecto da preparação antecipada é igualmente atraente.O molho de tomate pode ser feito com cinco dias de antecedência e refrigerado, ou é possível ganhar tempo substituindo-o por três xícaras do seu molho marinara preferido comprado em loja.A massa pode ser preparada com algumas horas de antecedência e depois tirada do refrigerador e cozinhada uma hora antes de comer. Embora algumas versões acrescentem espinafre congelado, ervas aromáticas ou limão, não é preciso qualquer coisa além do básico; esta versão clássica é puro conforto.Rendimento: seis a oito porções Tempo total: Cerca de duas horasIngredientes para o molho:Ingredientes para o recheio e a montagem:Modo de fazer: | comida |
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] | Não importa qual seja sua opinião sobre a quiche do rei Charles 3º e da rainha Camilla, parece improvável que ele ofusque o mais famoso dos pratos de coroação: o frango à coroação.Criado para a cerimônia da rainha Elizabeth 2ª em 1953, o prato, elegante e de sabor delicado, mudou um pouco desde então, assim como o Reino Unido.Originalmente um exemplo aristocrático da culinária francesa clássica, o prato foi democratizado na forma de uma salada de frango fácil de preparar para um jantar caseiro.Apesar de ser extremamente popular no Reino Unido como recheio de sanduíches e cobertura para batatas assadas, este prato de tonalidade amarelada e repleto de passas seria irreconhecível para qualquer um dos 350 dignitários que consumiram seu predecessor monárquico.O original, desenvolvido na escola de culinária Le Cordon Bleu em Londres, levava o nome de "poulet Reine Elizabeth" (na tradução, frango à Elizabeth). O prato frio consistia de frango escalfado com um molho rosado de vinho tinto, maionese, creme de leite batido, purê de damasco e um leve toque de curry em pó, e foi servido acompanhado por uma salada de arroz com ervilhas aos convidados de honra da rainha no banquete de coroação (ainda que provavelmente ela mesma tenha comido outra coisa). Mais Sejal Sukhadwala, jornalista gastronômica radicada em Londres e autora do livro "The Philosophy of Curry", descreve o prato como tendo sido moldado pela culinária francesa mas com um aceno à Índia colonial, inspirado no frango à jubileu criado em 1935 para o rei George 5º —que, como sua avó, a rainha Vitória, tinha uma quedinha por curry."O curry em pó no frango à coroação foi provavelmente um reconhecimento da influência do império e um tributo aos dois monarcas anteriores, que gostavam de curry", disse Sukhadwala via email.Com o passar dos anos, a receita se tornou mais acessível para os cozinheiros domésticos britânicos. A redução em vinho tinto, creme de leite batido, maionese caseira e purê de damasco foram excluídos, e a maionese industrializada, passas douradas, fatias de amêndoas e chutney de manga, produtos de despensa que podem ser rapidamente misturados em uma tigela, foram adicionados. Mais E a pitada de curry em pó do original foi expandida para uma dose de diversas colheres de sopa, o que confere à mistura um tom vívido –e segundo alguns, exagerado– de amarelo.Na década de 1980, a salada de frango à coroação era onipresente no Reino Unido, e estava disponível em sanduíches servidos nas lojas da Marks & Spencer e em cardápios de festas caseiras.Essa ascensão vertiginosa foi alimentada pelo que o jornalista gastronômico britânico Gurdeep Loyal, autor de "Mother Tongue: Flavours of a Second Generation", define como um renascimento da nostalgia pelo Raj (o período de domínio britânico sobre a Índia) que surgiu com a chegada de Margaret Thatcher ao posto de primeira-ministra.O frango à coroação "pretende evocar os pavões e os rubis, a grandeza e o tempero das dinastias monárquicas indianas, mas sem realmente oferecer sabores fortes", disse Loyal. Mais Ele é fã do prato, porém. A sua versão, que utiliza um complexo masala do Punjab com cardamomo preto e verde, "ajwain", funcho e tamarindo, faz alusão à adorada versão de sua infância na década de 1980, ao mesmo tempo em que celebra a identidade de Loyal como britânico de origem indiana na segunda geração."Estou reafirmando o lado indiano da receita", ele disse.Ainda assim, a versão da década de 1980 é deliciosa e fácil de fazer. O segredo é escolher os ingredientes com cuidado. Comece com frango cozido que já tenha muito sabor, quer preparado em casa, quer comprado já assado.Encontre uma marca de chutney de manga que seja complexa e não doce demais. Utilize uma maionese boa e picante, de preferência caseira. E —se conseguir encontrá-la— adicione pasta de curry em vidro, e não em pó, que, a depender da marca, pode ter um sabor mais pronunciado e cru.O resultado é um prato popular, mas digno de um rei. Algo que seria difícil de dizer sobre a quiche.Rendimento: quatro a seis porções Tempo total: 90 minutosIngredientes para o frangoIngredientes para a saladaModo de fazer | comida |
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] | Os dias de outono trazem consigo amplitude térmica, com temperaturas mais altas no fim da manhã e baixas no começo da noite. Os risotos são uma boa pedida para estação: sem ser fumegantes, conseguem aquecer os jantares.A receita italiana pode levar uma variedade ingredientes: abaixo, você confere ideias com ingredientes do dia a dia, como ervilha, carne-seca e beterraba —esta, que ganha um toque interessante com queijo de cabra, mas ainda é deliciosa sem ele.Receita de Juliana VenturaDificuldade: Médio Rendimento: 4 pessoasIngredientesModo de fazerEm uma panela grande, coloque o azeite e a cebola bem picada. Doure em fogo baixo, mexendo sempre até caramelizar (cerca de dez minutos).Na mesma panela, acrescente o bacon picado e doureColoque o arroz e mexa bem. Depois, acrescente o vinho e misture por um minutoCom o fogo alto, vá adicionando água quente às conchas e mexendo sem parar. Quando perceber que o arroz começou a cozinhar, mas ainda está duro no centro, coloque as ervilhasSiga o procedimento e ir acrescentando água e mexendo. O arroz vai ficar cremoso e cozinhar ao mesmo tempoQuando estiver cozido (mas não muito mole), coloque o queijo parmesão e misture bemPor fim, desligue o fogo, coloque a manteiga gelada e mexa para incorporar. Sirva com azeite e mais queijo parmesão Mais Receita de Juliana VenturaDificuldade: Médio Rendimento: 4 pessoasIngredientesModo de fazerCorte a beterraba em quatro, tempere com sal e cerca de uma colher de sopa de azeite e leve ao forno por cerca de 40 minutos até cozinhar e ficar maciaEm uma panela, refogue a cebola até ficar translúcida. Acrescente o vinhoAdicione o arroz, mexa bem e vá adicionando água quente ou caldo de legumes aos poucos, mexendo sempre. Uma dica é fazer um caldo com as aparas da beterraba e da cebolaQuando o arroz estiver bem al dente, coloque a beterraba batida em purê e misture bemContinue adicionando água até que o arroz esteja cozido no ponto desejadoAcrescente o queijo parmesão e incorporePor fim, desligue o fogo, coloque a manteiga gelada e mexa bem. Sirva com os pedaços de queijo de cabra sobre o risoto Mais Receita de Giuliana BastosGrau de dificuldade: Fácil Tempo de preparo: Até uma hora Rendimento: duas porçõesIngredientesModo de fazer | comida |
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] | Além de cafeterias de rua que pipocam pelo país, o número crescente de prateleiras dedicadas a marcas de café nos mercados é sinal da expansão da demanda do setor.Para ajudar quem, diante desse cenário, já pensou em provar novas marcas, a Folha realizou uma degustação às escuras de rótulos de café moído que estão disponíveis e avaliou seus atributos. "Durante muito tempo, o mercado interno não absorvia cafés diferenciados, com determinadas características como doçura e acidez marcantes", afirma.Celírio Inácio, diretor-executivo da Abic (Associação Brasileira da Indústria de Café). A diversificação do portfólio e a formação de baristas são algumas razões apontadas para a consolidação da procura no país.A degustação faz parte da seção de avaliações Folha Prova, que oferece ao leitor um guia de compra e uso. A primeira reportagem abordou vinhos brancos à venda por até R$ 70.As marcas de café foram compradas nas unidades do Pão de Açúcar e do Carrefour nos Jardins, mas são encontradas em apps e lojas online. Mais A lista inicial reuniu 12 marcas que se identificam como especiais, gourmet ou superior (leia mais nesta página). A avaliação dos rótulos, que custam de R$ 17 a R$ 29, aconteceu no Coffee Lab, e foi conduzida por baristas da cafeteria da Vila Madalena, na zona oeste de São Paulo, usando suporte Melitta, um dos mais usados para se coar em casa.Segundo a especialista Isabela Raposeiras, que experimentou as amostras às escuras, elas provaram ter qualidade, mas algumas não tiveram todo seu potencial revelado —já que, compostos aromáticos do café, após ser moído, se volatilizam em contato com o oxigênio."Além disso, para não produzir desequilíbrio, não foram considerados cafés com alto nível de oxidação. Isso pode acontecer por diferentes motivos, como avarias na embalagem", diz Raposeiras.Uma parcela das amostras apresentou amargor, de acordo com a especialista —o que, dentro da avaliação de cafés especiais, pode ser considerado um defeito ou problema a partir de determinado nível. Segundo a Abic, o amargor é uma característica intrínseca ao café devido à presença de compostos, mas que varia em função de fatores como colheita, armazenamento e torra.Veja análise dos nove rótulos com melhores avaliações.Nescafé Origens do Brasil - Serras do Alto Paranaíba (MG) "Tem notas doces que lembram pudim, corpo baixo e acidez média, que parecem ameixa fresca", diz Raposeiras. "Um café que tem potencial, mas com um pouco mais de amargor do que esperado." Café especial, 100% arábica. Preço: R$ 25,40 (250 g), na Casa Santa LuziaOrfeu Cafés Especiais Orgânico - Fazendas Sertãozinho Sul de Minas e Mogiana "Tem camadas de aromas diferentes, entre eles castanhas, frutas e destaque para aromas florais, de lavanda e jasmim", diz Raposeiras. Para ela, porém, a complexidade convive com "certo sabor defumado, que não gostaria de ver aqui." Preço: R$ 28,99 (250 g), no Extra3 Corações Gourmet - Mogiana Paulista É de qualidade, "com doçura que lembra agave, mais delicada", diz a especialista. "Mas com uma torra mais desenvolvida, o café seria mais doce." Preço: R$ 18,18 (250 g), em mercafe.com.brCafé do Centro - Sul de Minas Gourmet Tem sabor doce bem leve, sem amargor intenso. "Do ponto de vista técnico, dá para ver que tem boa acidez, que é bem-vinda, aroma e sabor que remetem a compostos doces. Mas a expressão está um pouco apagada", diz Raposeiras. Preço: R$ 20,19 (250 g), em CarrefourL’Or - Mogiana Gourmet "Tem uma acidez viva, o que é desejável, um corpo bom que preenche a boca. Mas tem uma adstringência [sensação de secura] que não é positiva", diz Raposeiras. Para o consumidor, a primeira coisa que se sente é um azedinho, que lembra de morango ou framboesa. Preço: R$ 27,29 (250 g), em Clube ExtraMelitta - Regiões Brasileiras - Sul de Minas Gourmet "Diferente do vinho, a nota amadeirada não é positiva no café. Tem acidez e corpo, mas aromas mais rústicos e falta de doçura", diz Raposeiras. Como consumidor, uma acidez de acerola é percebida, com amargor e adstringência. Preço: R$ 16,98 (250g), em MamboBaggio Café - Gourmet bourbon - Sul de Minas e Alta Mogiana "Não tem grandes problemas e um amargor leve", diz Raposeiras. Para quem não é especialista, se destaca azedinho positivo, mas sem doçura e sensação de secura na boca. Preço: R$ 24,79 (250 g), no Pão de Açúcar Mais Pilão Cafeteria Coado a Vácuo - Qualidade superior "Corpo baixo e falta de acidez. Amargor típico da categoria superior, que não chega a ser intenso. Tem notas de nibs de cacau, mas expressão aromática limitada", diz Raposeiras. Preço: R$ 23,99 (500 g), em St MarcheCafé do Ponto Safra Especial - Qualidade superior "Tem uma entrega de café superior, que não tem tanto amargor e nem doçura. Não tem defeitos", diz Raposeiras. Preço: R$ 20,90 (250 g), na Casa Santa LuziaA Abic, Associação Brasileira da Indústria de Café, monitora os seus associados para avaliar boas práticas e consistência do que oferecem —incluindo análises do produto na gôndola. A associação deve lançar em junho novo protocolo de avaliação de cafés, com nuances e critérios que incluem a percepção do consumidor.Em janeiro, o órgão reviu seu programa de qualidade, unificando selos de pureza (matéria-prima sem adulterações) e de qualidade. Segundo a associação, café superior é a bebida de amargor, doçura e acidez variando de leve a moderado (percebida por consumidores como suave, com amargor e acidez leve, com aroma e sabor).O gourmet tem baixo amargor, acidez e doçura de moderada a alta, com destaque para atributos frutado e floral (é percebido como suave, doce, ácido, frutado e cítrico). Já cafés especiais, regulados por outras metodologias, são livres de impurezas e seguem parâmetros de aroma e sabor, entre outras exigências. | comida |
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] | Estamos em um sábado de manhã, mas parece sexta-feira à noite no bar e restaurante Gaststätte Großmarkthalle, na zona sul de Munique, na Alemanha. Seus salões revestidos de madeira estão repletos de gente, garçonetes com roupas típicas carregam bandejas cheias de bebidas e a freguesia aumenta lentamente.O local atrai uma multidão em busca de um clássico café da manhã da Baviera: o Weißwurstfrühstück —literalmente, "café da manhã com salsicha branca". A refeição consiste na salsicha branca que originou seu nome, acompanhada de pretzels macios e mostarda doce —tudo regado a cerveja de trigo.Muitos lugares em todo o mundo mantêm tradições matinais próprias.Em Lyon, na França, as pessoas comem miúdos com vinho às nove horas da manhã. Em Van, na Turquia, o café da manhã típico tem nove pratos. Em Trang, na Tailândia, não é raro dirigir-se a um restaurante em busca do tradicional dim sum antes do nascer do sol.E, na Baviera, o Estado no sul da Alemanha conhecido pelos seus trajes tradicionais e pela folia da Oktoberfest, este costume culinário reflete a alegria local de viver."O Weißwurstfrühstück é mais do que apenas uma refeição; é uma desculpa para uma reunião informal quando é tarde demais para o café e cedo demais para o almoço", afirma Frauke Rothschuh, da secretaria de Turismo de Munique. Segundo ela, as pessoas costumam ficar apreciando o ambiente e, é claro, a cerveja.O café da manhã típico pode ser encontrado em toda a cidade de Munique, mas o Gaststätte Großmarkthalle aparece constantemente entre os lugares mais bem avaliados da região. Dois irmãos, Ludwig Wallner e Gabi Walter, administram o restaurante desde que assumiram o negócio do pai, em 1999."Não mudou muito nos 55 anos [em que minha família está] na administração", afirma Wallner.A decoração é simples e funcional. Luminárias de ferro fundido ficam penduradas no teto em formato de abóboda e porta-copos de cerveja substituem as toalhas de mesa. Meu laptop parece não combinar com o ambiente.Wallner é o único dono de restaurante da cidade que ainda trabalha como açougueiro. Ele acorda cedo todas as manhãs e produz as salsichas manualmente com uma receita secreta da família, da mesma forma em que ele aprendeu quando era criança. Os ingredientes vêm do matadouro local e do grande mercado atacadista (Großmarkthalle) vizinho.Durante a semana, o restaurante recebe comerciantes famintos e clientes do mercado. No fim de semana, as grandes mesas são ocupadas por famílias e amigos ou compartilhadas por grupos menores de estranhos que se cumprimentam carinhosamente dizendo, em alemão, Servus! ("saúde!").Receba no seu email um guia com a programação cultural da capital paulista; aberta para não assinantes.Carregando...Todas as idades são bem-vindas. Você encontra pais raspando o sal dos pretzels para dar aos seus filhos e clientes assíduos pegando mais uma cerveja sem precisar pedir."Alguns dos nossos dias mais movimentados são durante a Oktoberfest ou o Carnaval", explica Wallner, "ou em dias de jogo dos times de futebol de Munique".Não se sabe ao certo qual é a origem das Weißwürste —salsichas brancas cozidas, feitas com vitela, bacon, cebola, salsa e especiarias. Mas a história mais popular diz que elas foram inventadas por acaso.Em 1857, o jovem Sepp Moser, dono de restaurante em Munique, esgotou seu estoque de tripas de carneiro para suas salsichas e as substituiu por tripas de porco. Com receio de que elas pudessem se romper durante a fritura, Moser decidiu cozinhá-las em água.A aposta deu certo. Hoje, as salsichas cozidas são um dos mais conhecidos pratos da Baviera e uma das primeiras coisas que os moradores locais recomendam aos visitantes. O café da manhã é consumido em todo o Estado alemão, especialmente na Alta Baviera (Oberbayern)."É um prato que associo à minha família no interior", afirma Theresa Portenlänger, que gerencia com seus irmãos o moderno bar Xaver's, em Munique. "Sempre temos um Weißwurstfrühstück juntos na véspera de Natal."Pergunto a ela sobre a ideia de tomar cerveja de manhã e ela responde: "acho que muitas pessoas, na verdade, não a consideram uma bebida alcoólica. É mais um alimento comum, como o pão!"Esta refeição fica mais difícil de encontrar quando se cruza a chamada linha do Weißwurstäquator —o "equador da salsicha branca". A linha não tem uma definição exata; os rios Meno e Danúbio são indicados como possíveis fronteiras.Mas esta divisão reflete diferenças culturais, além das culinárias, em cada parte do país. Você não encontra muitas pessoas usando Lederhosen —as calças típicas da Baviera— no norte da Alemanha, por exemplo.Tradicionalmente, as salsichas devem ser consumidas antes de bater o sino da igreja ao meio-dia. A tradição vem de uma época anterior à refrigeração e diferentes técnicas de preparação. Mais Hoje, esta preocupação é desnecessária, mas muitos lugares e moradores locais ainda a obedecem. Outros, como Wallner e Portenlänger, agora servem as salsichas após esse horário, mas ainda soa estranho pedir o prato no final da tarde.Servidas em uma tigela com água quente, as salsichas brancas podem ser consumidas de diversas formas, mas você precisa antes remover a pele.A técnica que me ensinaram é fazer um corte ao longo do comprimento da salsicha e descascá-la. Os moradores de Munique já têm prática e simplesmente sugam o seu interior —em alemão, zuzeln.Mas, em qualquer lugar aonde você for, o melhor é observar e aprender."A maioria das pessoas é muito fiel ao restaurante do seu bairro", afirma Rothschuh. "Quando tenho visitantes de fora da cidade, costumo levá-los ao Turmstüberl, no Museu Karl Valentin, e combinar o Weißwurstfrühstück com um passeio turístico."Além do museu dedicado ao comediante nascido em Munique, outros pontos importantes incluem os restaurantes Ayinger am Platzl e Donisl, perto da Marienplatz, ou o Schneider Brauhaus, que tem uma extensa coleção de cerveja de trigo.O famoso Hofbräuhaus é outra opção, mas tome cuidado: ele é conhecido como um local para ver os principiantes comendo a pele da salsicha ou, pior, pedindo ketchup.Munique tem forte reputação na Alemanha por ser um lugar apegado às suas tradições, mas isso também está mudando, à medida que sua população mais jovem olha para o futuro.Hoje, nas vizinhanças do Gaststätte Großmarkthalle, você pode encontrar desde tacos até pizza vegana. A poucas quadras de distância, por exemplo, o café Om Nom Nom, aberto recentemente em um antigo açougue, serve pratos com queijo vegano.E, embora não haja como negar que o Weißwurstfrühstück causa arrepios na espinha dos nutricionistas ou dos defensores da alimentação vegetariana, até esta antiga tradição da Baviera está evoluindo.Em 2022, a startup Greenforce, com sede em Munique (uma das que mais crescem na Alemanha), lançou salsichas brancas veganas na Oktoberfest."Isso teria parecido muito improvável apenas cinco anos atrás", afirma o fundador e CEO (diretor-executivo) da empresa, Thomas Isermann, "mas a recepção positiva dos nossos produtos demonstra como a nutrição consciente também se aplica a eventos como a Oktoberfest, por mais tradicional que seja".A empresa será o principal fornecedor vegano da Oktoberfest em 2023, abastecendo diversos restaurantes de Munique, como o Herrschaftszeiten, no centro da cidade, e o Max Emanuel Brauerei, no bairro estudantil de Maxvorstadt.Produzidas na Alemanha com proteína de ervilha, as salsichas veganas têm 76% menos gordura e 62% menos calorias. Os dois restaurantes recomendam três salsichas como a porção padrão."Para mim, a opção sem carne não altera o significado, nem a importância social do café da manhã", afirma Isermann. "O fato é que ela permite que mais pessoas participem."Decidi observar o que Wallner achava das salsichas veganas. Ele havia conversado comigo calmamente até então, mas ficou rapidamente alvoroçado. "Agora, você me pegou!", riu-se ele, dando um murro na mesa.Procurando dar uma resposta equilibrada, ele disse que sabe que é uma mudança que não pode ignorar. Mas não consegue reunir as palavras "salsicha" e "vegana" em uma frase só.Será que ele provaria uma? "Sim, claro! É bom conhecer a concorrência."Este texto foi originalmente publicado aqui. | comida |
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] | Com muita ou pouca habilidade na cozinha, é difícil encontrar alguém que não goste de uma sobremesa que leve chocolate.Veja, abaixo, três receitas com o ingredientes que vão do tradicional bolo de cenoura à versão caseira do creme de avelã com chocolate que é queridinho nos cafés da manhã e recheios de doces.Grau de dificuldade: Fácil Tempo de preparo: Até meia hora Rendimento: 16 unidades Receita da padaria Benjamin AbrahãoIngredientesModo de fazer Mais Grau de dificuldade: Fácil Tempo de preparo: 1h15 Rendimento: 12 porções Ingredientes do boloModo de fazerCalda de chocolateModo de fazer Mais Dificuldade: Médio Rendimento: Cerca de 400 g receita de Juliana Ventura, jornalista formada em gastronomia.Ingredientes:Modo de fazer | comida |
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] | A partir desta quinta-feira (20), os clientes do McDonald's terão mais uma opção de lanche para escolher no cardápio. O Big Tasty Bacon Barbecue pode ser encontrado em todas as unidades da rede de hambúrgueres.O Big Tasty tradicional, já conhecido pelo público, é composto por um hambúrguer de carne bovina, queijo sabor emental, tomate, alface americana, cebola, pão com gergelim e o molho tasty. A novidade que chega aos restaurantes tem praticamente os mesmos ingredientes, com o acréscimo de fatias de bacon e molho barbecue, e a cebola crua é substituída pela versão crispy. Mais A linha, que o McDonald’s chama de Família Tasty, já teve outros integrantes, como o Big Tasty Turbo Bacon, que levava duas camadas de carne suína. O molho do lanche também já chegou a ser comercializado em embalagens de 190 gramas para que os clientes pudessem usar o tempero em casa.O Big Tasty Bacon Barbecue não tem previsão para ser tirado do cardápio do McDonald's. | comida |
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] | O chef-churrasqueiro Jeferson Finger, à frente do restaurante Barbacoa, é do tipo que veste a camisa do trabalho. Até literalmente. Além de gerenciar a rede, especializada em carnes, ele costuma ir todos os dias à matriz, no bairro paulistano do Itaim Bibi, põe o uniforme —uma camisa branca com o símbolo pequeno de um boi—, recepciona os clientes, serve os cortes de carne e limpa as mesas do salão.Acompanha, ainda, as peças que chegam ao açougue pela manhã, vistoria o churrasco na grelha e treina a equipe de atendentes. Faz uma pausa às 15h, quando a cozinha interrompe o atendimento, e volta às 18h, para um segundo round. Quando não está por lá, é porque está visitando os outros restaurantes espalhados na capital paulista. A folga é apenas aos sábados.Finger ainda consegue ser visto viajando com frequência para vários cantos do mundo, assando picanha e filé-mignon a xeiques árabes e roqueiros como o guitarrista Slash, da banda Guns N’ Roses —a quem convidou pessoalmente para ir à sua churrascaria numa das ocasiões em que o músico tocou em São Paulo. Muitas das figuras célebres que ele já serviu dão as caras em seu perfil no Instagram, que soma 52 mil seguidores.O paranaense de 45 anos virou, assim, uma espécie de embaixador do churrasco brasileiro. Mais Além de comandar o Barbacoa, rede de churrascarias que tem unidades no Brasil, no Japão e na Itália, ele é responsável por coordenar degustações e jantares em outros países sob o guarda-chuva da Abiec, a Associação Brasileira das Indústrias Exportadoras de Carne, da qual ele faz parte desde 2001.O chef diz que já apresentou o corte brasileiro em 27 países, como Emirados Árabes, China, Singapura, Alemanha, Irã e França.Essas degustações costumam ser feitas em feiras internacionais ou em jantares em hotéis e embaixadas. Em fevereiro, Finger diz que chegou a servir uma tonelada de picanha em Dubai num evento da associação. Um de seus maiores jantares reuniu 7.000 pessoas no Palácio do Eliseu, na França, a residência oficial do presidente daquele país.Ele costuma cuidar pessoalmente de todo o processo, da seleção da carne à grelha. Segundo diz, o churrasco brasileiro tem boa aceitação do público. "Somos muito bem vistos lá fora e bem recepcionados. As pessoas sabem que quando tem churrasco brasileiro, isso é sinônimo de carne boa", afirma.Em São Paulo, ele faz questão de estar no salão da unidade do Itaim Bibi de seu restaurante. "Eu comecei assim. Servir o cliente faz toda a diferença, porque eu peço feedbacks, escuto as pessoas. Amo fazer isso, não faço por obrigação. Atender e recepcionar é a minha vida."Finger nasceu em Sulina, cidade no oeste do Paraná a 430 quilômetros de Curitiba, e vem de uma família de churrasqueiros. A tradição da carne começou com o seu avô, que era o açougueiro da cidade. Os membros da família eram, inclusive, convidados para ser os assadores das festas regionais do município. "Sempre gostei muito de trabalhar com carne, desde o abate até a churrasqueira", diz.Sua vida em São Paulo começou em 1994. Veio seguindo os passos de amigos do Sul que se mudaram para a o Sudeste para trabalhar em churrascarias entre os anos 1980 e 1990, época em que a capital paulista viu pipocar churrascarias do tipo rodízio, antes restritas a beiras de estrada.Ele trabalhou em endereços tradicionais na época, como Ponteio, Búfalo Grill e casas do Grupo Sérgio. Até que um colega com quem dividia casa e que trabalhava no Barbacoa lhe indicou uma vaga na tradicional casa de carnes."Para quem trabalhava em churrascaria existiam dois sonhos: o Barbacoa e o Fogo de Chão", ele diz. O restaurante do Itaim Bibi havia sido inaugurado em 1990, pelo gaúcho Ademar do Carmo, e inovou por trazer carnes especiais em um sistema de rodízio a um bairro nobre —a casa tornou-se, assim, parte de um pequeno grupo de churrascarias que investia em cortes de primeira na cidade.Finger começou ali como passador de carne, carregando os espetos pelo salão. Subiu de cargo e, um ano após a sua chegada, entrou na Abiec, a partir de uma indicação feita por Ademar do Carmo. Mais Hoje, ele é gerente-geral da churrascaria, que tem seis unidades no Brasil (além de três em São Paulo, há outras em Campinas, Salvador e Brasília), uma em Milão e nove no Japão, nas cidades de Tóquio e Osaka. Os cortes servidos fora são os mesmos encontrados por aqui, como picanha, alcatra, fraldinha e cupim. Todas funcionam no esquema de rodízio e as adaptações regionais são feitas no bufê.A matriz, no Itaim Bibi, continua sendo a mais movimentada da rede. Lá são consumidas em média 15 toneladas de carne por mês por um público que gira em torno de 21 mil pessoas. A unidade é a única no país que funciona em sistema de rodízio: nos outros locais, o menu é à la carte.A expansão do Barbacoa para outros países já havia começado em 1994, antes do ingresso de Finger. Mas ele ajudou a ampliar o negócio. Hoje, o chef-churrasqueiro é o responsável por treinar a equipe enviada a outros países e monitora o padrão dos restaurantes, viajando a esses locais todos os anos.Finger também está à frente do grupo de sócios do Barbacoa, que inclui ainda bandeiras como a rede Graal, de autopostos rodoviários, e o restaurante Due Cuochi, em São Paulo. Em dezembro, os sócios ainda adquiriram 50% do grupo Adega Santiago, que inclui o restaurante de culinária luso-ibérica de mesmo nome e outros negócios como a Casa Europa. A nova gestão deve abrir um terceiro endereço da Adega Santiago na capital paulista. | comida |
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] | Muitas tradições da Páscoa — como os pães doces e o almoço de domingo — vêm do cristianismo da era medieval ou até das crenças pagãs mais antigas. Mas o ovo de chocolate é uma reviravolta mais recente.Ovos de galinha são consumidos na Páscoa há séculos. Há muito tempo, os ovos simbolizam o renascimento e a renovação, o que os torna perfeitos para comemorar a história da ressurreição de Jesus, que coincide com a chegada da primavera no hemisfério norte.Atualmente, a Igreja Católica permite o consumo de ovos durante o período de jejum da quaresma, mas, na Idade Média, eles eram proibidos, junto com a carne e os laticínios. Os chefes de cozinha medievais, muitas vezes, encontravam formas surpreendentes de contornar a proibição — e até faziam ovos falsos para substituir os verdadeiros.Na Páscoa — um período de celebração — os ovos e a carne, como o cordeiro (outro símbolo de renovação), voltavam à mesa.Mesmo depois que os ovos foram permitidos nas refeições no período de jejum, eles continuaram ocupando lugar de destaque no banquete de Páscoa. O escritor de livros de receitas do século 17 John Murrell recomendava "ovos com molho verde", uma espécie de pesto feito com folhas de azedinha.Em toda a Europa, os ovos também eram oferecidos como dízimo para as igrejas locais na Sexta-Feira Santa.Pode ter sido daí que surgiu a ideia de dar ovos de presente.A prática foi abandonada em muitas áreas protestantes depois da Reforma, mas algumas aldeias inglesas mantiveram a tradição até o século 19.Não se sabe exatamente quando as pessoas começaram a decorar os ovos, mas as pesquisas apontam para o século 13, quando o rei inglês Eduardo 1º (1239-1307) deu ovos embalados em folhas de ouro de presente para seus cortesãos.Sabemos também que, alguns séculos mais tarde, pessoas de toda a Europa coloriam seus ovos. Normalmente, escolhiam o amarelo, usando cascas de cebola, ou vermelho, com raízes de plantas rubiáceas ou beterraba.Acredita-se que os ovos vermelhos simbolizassem o sangue de Cristo. Um autor do século 17 indicou que essa prática vinha dos primeiros cristãos da Mesopotâmia, mas é difícil saber ao certo.Na Inglaterra, a forma mais popular de decorar os ovos empregava pétalas de flores, que geravam impressões coloridas. O Museu Wordsworth, na região de Lake District, ainda conserva uma coleção de ovos feitos para os filhos do poeta William Wordsworth (1770-1850) nos anos 1870.Pintar ovos com padrões coloridos ainda é uma atividade comum na Páscoa, mas, atualmente, esses ovos são cada vez mais associados ao chocolate. Quando ocorreu essa mudança?Quando o chocolate chegou pela primeira vez à Grã-Bretanha no século 17, era uma novidade fascinante e muito cara.Em 1669, o Conde de Sandwich pagou 227 libras por uma receita de chocolate do rei Carlos 2º (1630-1685). O valor equivale a 32 mil libras (cerca de R$ 204 mil), em valores atuais.Hoje em dia, o chocolate é considerado um alimento sólido, mas, na época, era uma bebida normalmente condimentada com pimenta, seguindo as tradições maias e astecas.E, para os ingleses, essa nova e exótica bebida era diferente de tudo o que eles já haviam experimentado. Um autor a chamou de "néctar americano": uma bebida para os deuses.O chocolate logo se tornou uma bebida da moda entre os aristocratas, muitas vezes oferecida de presente, como símbolo de status. E essa tradição permanece até hoje.A bebida também era apreciada nas recém-abertas cafeterias de Londres. O café e o chá também haviam acabado de ser introduzidos na Inglaterra, e as três bebidas rapidamente mudaram a forma como os britânicos interagiam socialmente entre si.Foi naquela época que os teólogos do catolicismo, de fato, relacionaram o chocolate à Páscoa, mas devido à preocupação de que tomar chocolate infringiria as práticas de jejum durante a quaresma.Após intensos debates, ficou definido que o chocolate preparado com água poderia ser aceitável durante o jejum. Pelo menos na Páscoa — uma época de festa e celebração — o chocolate era aceito.O chocolate continuou sendo caro até o século 19. Em 1847, a empresa Fry’s (que hoje pertence à fábrica de chocolates inglesa Cadbury) produziu as primeiras barras de chocolate sólidas, que revolucionaram o comércio do produto.Com isso, o chocolate ficou muito mais acessível na era vitoriana, mas ainda era visto com certa complacência. E, trinta anos mais tarde, em 1873, a Fry’s desenvolveu o primeiro ovo de Páscoa de chocolate como uma iguaria de luxo, mesclando duas tradições relacionadas à troca de presentes.Mesmo no início do século 20, esses ovos de chocolate ainda eram vistos como um presente especial e muitas pessoas nunca comiam os que ganhavam. Uma mulher no País de Gales chegou a guardar um ovo de 1951 por 70 anos e um museu em Torquay, no sul da Inglaterra, recentemente comprou um ovo que estava guardado desde 1924.Somente nos anos 1960 e 1970, os supermercados começaram a oferecer ovos de chocolate a preços mais baixos, esperando lucrar com a tradição da Páscoa.Com as preocupações crescentes sobre a continuidade da produção de chocolate e a gripe aviária reduzindo a produção de ovos, a Páscoa poderá ter aparência um pouco diferente no futuro. Mas, se há uma coisa que os ovos de Páscoa podem nos mostrar é a capacidade de adaptação das tradições.*Serin Quinn é aluna de PhD do Departamento de História da Universidade de Warwick, no Reino Unido.Este texto foi publicado aqui. | comida |
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] | Ao lado dos ovos de Páscoa, o bacalhau é a estrela gastronômica da Semana Santa. Preparar o ingrediente não é difícil, mas requer atenção aos processos.Veja abaixo quatro diferentes maneiras de preparar do bacalhau: do tradicional à bras até uma versão que usa partes menos nobres do peixe, e permite fugir dos preços salgados do pescado, cujo quilo já chega a R$ 300.Nesta receita, assinada pela autora do livro "Bacalhau – Receitas e Histórias das Águas Geladas às Caçarolas" (ed. DBA), Heloisa Bacellar, a batata palha dá lugar à mandioquinha, que é ralada, lavada, seca e frita em óleo quente. Como o preparo pede a carne do pescado em lascas, a chef recomenda utilizar as espécies norueguesas saithe e zarbo, que são alternativas até 50% mais baratas que o Gadus morhua, como é chamado oficialmente o bacalhau.Veja a receita aqui.Simples e bem clássica, essa receita é preparada com o lombo do bacalhau, a parte mais nobre do peixe. Além deste ingrediente, vão ao forno tomate, batata, azeitona e cebola —tudo regado a azeite. Por não envolver etapas complicadas, é ideal para quem está começando na cozinha ou não tem muito tempo disponível. Fica pronto em uma hora e meia, incluindo o preparo de uma farofinha.Confira aqui o preparo. Mais Uma opção para quem quer variar a clássico receita de bacalhau assado com batatas, tradicional da Páscoa. Nesta versão, o bacalhau com natas pode ser feito com o lombo de bacalhau congelado, creme de leite fresco e queijo gruyére —mas a muçarela funciona igualmente bem!Veja a receita aqui.Neste preparo, um dos mais tradicionais da cozinha portuguesa, você pode aprender dois truques para não terminar a empreitada com um mexidão de bacalhau com ovos. Primeiro, é preciso bater bem os ovos com o leite, prestando muita atenção ao calor da panela para desligar o fogo na hora certa; depois, adicionar as batatas apenas ao fim de todo o processo e servir imediatamente.Veja a receita aqui. | comida |
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] | Ovos de Páscoa de chocolate são as estrelas do feriado, mas isso não significa que o ingrediente não possa estar também nas sobremesas servidas na data.Veja, abaixo, receitas (incluindo uma versão vegana ) para matar a vontade de comer doce e que podem até servir como presente.Bolo com calda que não requer batedeira Tipicamente feito em camadas e muito tradicional nos Estados Unidos, esse esse bolo com calda quente inspirado no chamado "Devil's Food Cake" vai da sobremesa ao café da tarde. O resultado da receita é um bolo denso que é feito sem o uso da batedeira, para manter a característica mais pesada, sem muito ar incorporado. É importante evitar achocolatados. Use cacau 100%, que deixa o bolo bem escuro —mas variações 50% ou 70% também funcionam. O resultado vai ser igualmente saboroso, porém menos escuro e intenso. Veja a receita aquiMusse Molecular A receita é do químico francês Hervé This que usa os conhecimentos de gastronomia molecular para criar um musse que leva apenas chocolate e água. Apesar das palavras difíceis, a sobremesa é a que tem o preparo mais simples entre as quatro. O doce de chocolate emulsionado é uma opção que não leva ovo nem laticínios no preparo, sendo ideal para veganos ou alérgicos. Veja a receita aqui Mais Trufas de Chocolate A receita atende quem busca uma opção que serve para presentear familiares e amigos. O preparo traz a versão clássica do doce, que é feito com ganache de chocolate, coberto com mais chocolate e chocolate em pó. A guloseima também pode levar essências ou castanhas, de acordo com a preferência de quem as prepara. Veja a receita aquiRocambole com recheio de brigadeiro Com um pouco mais de prática na cozinha, é possível preparar um rocambole que leva chocolate na massa, no recheio e na cobertura. O preparo requer atenção à temperatura e ao tempo de forno, pois a massa não pode ficar ressecada, o que prejudica a montagem. A receita é finalizada com amêndoas glaceadas, que acrescentam sabor e textura ao doce. Aprenda a preparar aqui | comida |
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] | Um dos pratos mais tradicionais e queridos da culinária italiana tem um dia só para ele. Nesta quinta-feira (6), a Itália celebra o Dia do Carbonara. Criada pela Unione Italiana Food, um sindicato da indústria alimentícia do país, a efeméride homenageia a receita que é um símbolo de Roma.Apesar de ser uma receita relativamente simples, com apenas cinco ingredientes, o macarrão à carbonara sempre suscita polêmicas justamente pelas suas diferentes versões. Segundo um levantamento da Unione Italiana Food, apenas 60% das receitas de carbonara que circulam na internet são fieis ao que seria a versão original do prato, enquanto 36% são consideradas "erradas" justamente pelas muitas modificações e adaptações.No Dia do Carbonara, a Folha ensina um preparo fiel à versão de Roma, assinado pelo chef Carlos Bertolazzi, do restaurante Per Paolo.Tempo: até meia hora Rendimento: 4 porçõesIngredientes:Preparo: Mais | comida |
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] | É pouco provável que alguém que nunca bebeu um vinho sugira rótulos da bebida para harmonização de pratos em um restaurante. Mas quem está oferecendo essa consultoria no tradicional restaurante português Tasca da Esquina, em São Paulo, não é bem um sommelier —aliás, não é nem mesmo uma pessoa, mas o ChatGPT.A tradicional casa de comida portuguesa adotou um sistema que usa a inteligência artificial mais falada dos últimos tempos para sugerir opções de vinhos que combinam com a comida pedida. Como o ChatGPT utiliza todo o conhecimento disponível na internet para tentar responder a qualquer tipo pergunta feita a ele, a ferramenta se baseia nessas informações para sugerir as harmonizações.O sistema, chamado de "sommelier virtual", foi idealizado pela empresa Atena, que fornece softwares para operação e gestão de restaurantes. O Tasca da Esquina se diz pioneiro ao implementar essa ferramenta.O CEO da Atena, Francisco Gioielli, explica que a inteligência artificial usa APIs para possibilitar a comunicação entre a plataforma na qual o cliente escolhe os pratos e o Chat GPT, que irá sugerir os vinhos. API, segundo ele, é "o idioma e ambiente que permite dois sistemas conversarem".Na prática, o cliente chega ao Tasca da Esquina, aponta o celular para um QR code e escolhe os pratos de sua preferência. Mas, ao contrário do que acontece em geral com restaurantes com cardápios virtuais, o pedido já pode ser feito pelo próprio aparelho do consumidor, e é quando o sommelier virtual entra em ação. Mais Cada prato já é previamente associado a algumas opções da bebida, como tinto, branco, rosé ou verde, e o cliente pode escolher uma ou mais delas. Em seguida, existem quatro opções de faixas de preço, até R$ 300, até R$ 600, até R$ 900 ou sem limite. Depois de selecionado o valor, o ChatGPT apresenta três rótulos finais.Um dos fundadores da Eno Cultura, escola que forma sommeliers desde 2013, Paulo Brammer, acompanhou a reportagem em uma visita ao Tasca da Esquina para conferir as recomendações de vinho da inteligência artificial.Ao contrário do que se poderia imaginar a respeito de um sommelier avaliando uma ferramenta que poderia até substituir essa função, a opinião de Brammer sobre a novidade é, em partes, positiva. O primeiro ponto elogiado por ele foi a facilidade de uso da inteligência artificial.De modo geral, o sommelier considerou que as sugestões do ChatGPT foram corretas, mas algumas combinações deixaram a desejar, segundo ele. Mais Durante a visita ao restaurante, foi servida uma paleta de cordeiro harmonizada com vinho tinto, o que está dentro do esperado pelos especialistas. A questão é que o prato leva hortelã no tempero, algo que não parece ter sido considerado na sugestão do sommelier virtual.Para Brammer, o rótulo mais indicado no caso seria um cabernet ou algum vinho que tenha notas de eucalipto ou mentol. O sommelier considera que o problema aconteceu pela falta de personalização dos pratos, que são descritos sem todos os detalhes para que a ferramenta encontre as sugestões mais adequadas.É quando o cliente escolhe opções muito diferentes umas das outras que a ferramenta apresenta mais problemas. Essa dificuldade não é exclusiva da ferramenta —Brammer conta que mesmo os bons sommeliers também precisam de muita experiência para saber equilibrar sabores opostos.Quando são pedidos, por exemplo, filé-mignon, que harmoniza com tintos, e camarão gratinado, que é mais bem acompanhado pelos brancos, o sommelier virtual sugeriu somente opções de vinho tinto. Para o profissional de carne e osso, a solução seria um rosé "mais encorpado, talvez até com um pouco de madeira".A falta de personalização também vale para os textos que acompanham os três rótulos sugeridos pelo sommelier virtual. Brammer considera que eles falham quando sugerem, por exemplo, que o álcool do vinho modera o sabor do prato, o que não tem base técnica.Os parágrafos das descrições gerados pela inteligência artificial são genéricos, afirma o sommelier do mundo real, e é perceptível que não foram escritos por alguém que entende do assunto.Brammer explica que a justificativa dada por um sommelier de verdade não serve apenas para ligar um prato a um vinho, mas sobretudo para conectar o produtor ao consumidor. Essa experiência também aprofunda os usos do rótulo ao contexto em que está sendo consumido, como jantar entre amigos, reunião de negócios ou mesmo temperatura do dia.Apesar de ajudar clientes e restaurantes em um primeiro momento, Brammer acredita que a relação que acontece entre o sommelier e o cliente é algo que a ferramenta não vai conseguir substituir. | comida |
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] | Estreia nesta terça-feira (4) a seção Folha Prova que traz, a cada mês, a avaliação de produtos usados na cozinha ou no dia a dia, disponíveis em diferentes faixas de preço e locais de compra.A primeira reportagem da série mostra uma degustação de vinhos brancos a menos de R$ 70 indicados para o feriado da Páscoa, encontrados em mercados e sites.A prova, realizada no restaurante de cozinha brasileira Tordesilhas, em São Paulo, reuniu 29 amostras de oito países.Desse conjunto, foram eleitos 12 rótulos nacionais e importados, apresentados de acordo com informações discutidas por Agilson Gavioli, professor de bebidas do Senac, Diego Arrebola, diretor de produtos da Berkmann Wine Cellars Brasil, e Adiu Bastos, consultor que passou pelo restaurante Tuju e pelo hotel Rosewood.Além dos rótulos, itens como café, azeite e aplicativos de entrega serão temas examinados com a intenção de oferecer ao leitor um guia de compra e uso. | comida |
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] | "É claro que o gosto do sommelier influencia na indicação", diz Adiu Bastos, profissional que passou pelo restaurante Tuju e pelo hotel Rosewood, ambos em São Paulo, e hoje presta consultorias.Os conceitos pré-estabelecidos também podem ditar uma escolha, segundo ele. "Se você tem um vinho brasileiro e um português, por exemplo, é provável que acabe privilegiando o português. O mesmo acontece com um vinho mais caro e outro mais barato."É por isso que a degustação às cegas —sem saber o que está sendo provado— é tão útil para uma avaliação."Ela tira toda a aura que uma marca ou uma denominação possam ter", diz o especialista. Junto a Agilson Gavioli, professor de bebidas do Senac, e a Diego Arrebola, diretor de produtos da fornecedora Berkmann Wine Cellars Brasil, Adiu Bastos participou de uma degustação às cegas organizada pela Folha no restaurante de cozinha brasileira Tordesilhas, em São Paulo, para escolher 12 vinhos brancos de até R$ 70, fáceis de encontrar.Foram avaliados apenas brancos porque a Semana Santa está próxima e é, por tradição, época de se comer peixes. O painel reuniu 29 amostras de oito países e 12 fontes diferentes, incluindo dois supermercados, uma loja de ecommerce, quatro importadoras e cinco vinícolas nacionais. As amostras foram enviadas, a pedido da reportagem, pelos produtores de vinho. Entre eles estão a Aurora e Salton, que estão no centro de uma crise institucional por terem contratado os serviços da Fênix Serviços Administrativos e Apoio à Gestão de Saúde, acusada de manter mais de 200 trabalhadores em condições análogas à escravidão na serra gaúcha. Caso não haja, no supermercado de sua preferência, nenhum dos rótulos listados, os especialistas dão as suas dicas para quem quiser comprar."Nas lojas de ecommerce, desconfie se a oferta é muito barata", diz Bastos. "Se arrisque", diz Arrebola. "Experimente uvas e regiões diferentes para descobrir do que gosta. Procure as safras mais recentes. Os brancos são mais sensíveis do que os tintos, e vinhos desse preço não costumam ser feitos para envelhecer."Gavioli acrescenta: "Peça ajuda aos atendentes. Em boa parte dos supermercados tem alguém que entende do assunto".Veja a seguir a lista dos 12 vinhos mais bem avaliados durante a degustação às cegas.De Bortoli Sacred Hill Semillon e Sauvignon Blanc 2020 "Um branco muito fresco, muito equilibrado, com aromas interessantes e uma boa presença de boca", diz Diego Arrebola. "Para mim, pareceu um degrau acima dos outros vinhos degustados." À venda nas lojas da rede de supermercados Zona Sul, no Rio de Janeiro. Origem: Marlborough, Austrália. Preço: R$ 56,94, no Zona Sul Reserva Ventisquero Sauvignon Blanc 2022 "Bastante agradável na boca", diz Agilson Gavioli. "Tem boa acidez e os aromas não são exagerados, como às vezes acontece com o sauvignon blanc." À venda em diversos supermercados e também em lojas online do país. Origem: Casablanca, Chile. Preço: R$ 69, na Cantu Importadora Emiliana Adobe Riesling 2020 "Um vinho mineral, com boa acidez e ótima persistência na boca", diz Gavioli. "Bom equilíbrio entre aromas e sensações de boca, com textura crocante e um leve açúcar residual agradável." O vinho é orgânico. À venda em diversos supermercados e lojas online do país. Origem: Vale del Bio-Bio, Chile. Preço: R$ 61, na importadora La Pastina Nederburg Sauvignon Blanc 2021 "Um rótulo de boa expressão aromática, com bastante fruta e alguma madeira tanto no nariz quanto na boca", diz Adiu Bastos. "No final, tem um ligeiro amargor, que não compromete o conjunto." À venda em diversos supermercados e lojas online do país. Origem: Paarl, África do Sul.Preço: R$ 70, na Casa Flora Parthenium Grillo e Pinot Grigio 2020 "Discreto nos aromas, na boca é bastante mineral", diz Gavioli. "Na boca, é bastante mineral. Vivo e crocante. O açúcar residual [da fruta, que sobra da fermentação] é presente." À venda no ecommerce e nas lojas físicas da Wine. Origem: Sicília, Itália. Preço: R$ 58,71, na Wine.com.brQuinta do Ameal Bico Amarelo 2021 Aromas de frutas cítricas em profusão", afirma Gavioli. "Tem também abacaxi, pera, maçã…É um vinho equilibrado. Tem boa acidez e boa persistência no paladar." À venda em diversos supermercados e lojas online do país. Origem: Vinho Verde, Portugal.Preço: R$ 65, na Qualimpor Cono Sur Bicicleta Chardonnay 2021 "Aroma de frutas mais maduras, quase uma compota", diz Gavioli. "Na boca, ele poderia ter um pouco mais de frescor. Faltou um pouquinho mais de acidez." À venda em supermercados e lojas online do país. Origem: Chimbarongo, Chile. Preço: R$ 63, no La Pastina Mais Aurora Varietal Riesling Itálico 2021 "É um vinho ligeiro", diz Gavioli. "Mas tem um conjunto agradável. Aromas cítricos e uma acidez cortante e angulosa. Deve ir bem com ceviche." À venda em supermercados e lojas online do país. Origem: Serra gaúcha, Brasil. Preço: R$ 42, na Vinícola Aurora Almadén Gewürztraminer 2022 "Um vinho com uma aromaticidade interessante, mas sem aquele exagero de aromas que se encontra no gewürztraminer desequilibrado", diz Arrebola. "A Almadén, para mim, é sempre um bom custo-benefício." À venda em supermercados e lojas online do país. Origem: Campanha central, Brasil, R$ 40,32, no site do Grupo Miolo Paradoxo Riesling 2022 "Um vinho bem coringa", diz Bastos. "Um branco bem ligeiro, que equilibra um pouco de aromas herbáceos com um paladar aprazível. Não sei se eu indicaria este vinho neste momento, por causa do escândalo que envolveu a vinícola, mas ele foi escolhido em uma degustação técnica, às cegas…" À venda em supermercados e lojas online do país. Origem: Campanha gaúcha, Brasil. Preço: R$ 65, no site da Salton Edição Única Viognier 2020 "Um vinho bem equilibrado", diz Bastos. "Ele é fresco na boca e tem uma boa persistência. Vale aqui o que eu disse para o vinho da Salton: não sei se eu indicaria este vinho por causa do escândalo. Mas na degustação às cegas, ele foi bem." À venda em supermercados e em lojas online do país. Origem: Serra gaúcha. Preço R$ 70, no site da Vinícola Aurora Esporão Monte Velho Branco 2018 "Tem aromas que remetem a lima-da-pérsia, grapefruit e outros cítricos", afirma Gavioli. "O álcool aparece ligeiramente demais, enquanto a acidez é um pouco baixa. No geral, no entanto, é agradável e deixa uma sensação boa na boca." À venda em supermercados e lojas online do país. Origem: Alentejo, Portugal, Preço: R$ 70, na Qualimpor | comida |
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] | Formada pela Le Cordon Bleu de Paris, a chef Helô Bacellar, que comandou o restaurante Lá da Venda, em São Paulo, usou o conhecimento acumulado na carreira para aperfeiçoar técnicas de receitas bem brasileiras.É o caso do brigadeiro, doce que parece fácil de fazer, mas tem seus truques se chegar à consistência desejada —seja o ponto para enrolar ou para comer de colher. O preparo foi testado na cozinha da Helô, que ensina receitas em seu site e também é autora de livros de como "Entre Panelas e Tigelas" (ed. DBA; 420 págs.). Veja abaixo o passo a passo.Rendimento: 6 porções Tempo de preparo: 1h30IngredientesPreparo Mais | comida |
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] | Basta o Carnaval ficar para trás que os ovos de chocolate começam a pipocar nos supermercados brasileiros. As guloseimas são o primeiro sinal de que a Páscoa está chegando, trazendo junto outras tradições típicas da data, como a bacalhoada e a colomba pascal. Mas isso aqui no Brasil. Em outros países mundo afora, as comemorações da Páscoa podem ser bem diferentes da nossa.Boa parte dessas diferenças se explica pelas estações do ano. No hemisfério norte, a Páscoa coincide com o fim do inverno e o começo da primavera, uma época que já era celebrada muito antes de Cristo. Com o tempo e a expansão do catolicismo, as celebrações foram se tornando uma festa só. Mais Os séculos se passaram, mas os ovos talvez sejam a única unanimidade das Páscoas ao redor do mundo. Eles são uma tradição tão antiga e tão difundida que é impossível saber, ao certo, como surgiram. Os relatos mais antigos dão conta de que, antes mesmo de Cristo, as populações nativas do Hemisfério Norte costumavam trocar ovos no equinócio da primavera para comemorar o fim da temporada de frio. E por que ovos? Porque eles simbolizam a vida e o renascimento. Um presente ideal para celebrar a chegada da primavera.Mas foi só no século 18 que os ovos de Páscoa de clara e gema deram lugar ao chocolate, graças à inventividade dos confeiteiros franceses. Como era de se esperar, muita gente gostou da ideia, que acabou se espalhando rapidamente pelo mundo. Mas vale destacar: tal qual a jabuticaba, o ovo de Páscoa de colher é uma iguaria 100% brasileira.E como é que o coelho, que nem bota ovos, entra nessa história? Também é difícil precisar. Mas dada a sua fama de reprodutor (as coelhas conseguem dar à luz até 50 filhotes por ano) e o fato de que ele é o primeiro animal a sair da toca quando o inverno acaba, a gente consegue entender porque o coelho se tornou um dos principais símbolos da festa cristã que celebra, justamente, o renascimento.Na Suécia e na Finlândia, a Páscoa lembra muito o nosso Dia das Bruxas —por mais estranho que isso possa parecer. As crianças se fantasiam de bruxas e saem de casa em casa oferecendo galhos de salgueiro (um símbolo de proteção) em troca de doces. É que, no passado por lá, a celebração do equinócio da primavera sempre homenageou Ostara, a deusa da fertilidade e do renascimento na mitologia nórdica, na qual a figura das bruxas é muito presente.Na Alemanha, comemora-se a data enfeitando os galhos secos das árvores com cascas de ovos coloridas, em reverência à primavera que vem chegando — é a Osterbaum, ou Árvore de Páscoa. Outra diferença da comemoração alemã é que, por lá, a Páscoa se estende por mais um dia, até a segunda-feira, que ainda é feriado. Inglaterra, Canadá, França, Reino Unido e mais de uma centena de países também contam com esse dia a mais de festa.Acostumados a quebrar pratos, os gregos da ilha de Corfu têm uma tradição semelhante na Páscoa. No sábado pela manhã, eles saem às suas varandas com grandes vasos de barro cheios de água e os arremessam na rua —o que atrai milhares de turistas todos os anos. Mais uma vez, o que inspira o ritual é o espírito de renovação e renascimento da Páscoa.Na Hungria e em alguns outros países do leste europeu, uma tradição muito comum é a rega húngara, um ritual associado à fertilidade em que os homens literalmente regam as mulheres com baldes de água perfumada. Em troca, os rapazes recebem das moças ovos de galinha cuidadosamente pintados com diferentes desenhos e cores.A exceção, no caso do coelho, são os países da Oceania. É que na Austrália e na Nova Zelândia, o animal, nativo da Europa é considerado uma praga para o ecossistema local. Por isso, por lá, o animal que traz os ovos de Páscoa é o Bilby, um marsupial nativo, da família dos cangurus, ameaçado de extinção. | comida |
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] | Desde 9 de fevereiro, o ministro Edson Fachin, do Supremo Tribunal Federal, tem sobre sua mesa um processo que vem agitando salões de bares e restaurantes paulistanos. Cabe a ele julgar se os estabelecimentos devem ou não ser obrigados a fornecer água filtrada de graça aos clientes.Para entender por que a ação foi parar em Brasília, é preciso voltar no tempo até setembro de 2020, quando a Câmara Municipal de São Paulo aprovou uma lei de autoria do vereador Xexéu Tripoli (PSDB).Sancionada pelo então prefeito Bruno Covas, a Lei Água da Casa determina que bares, hotéis, restaurantes, lanchonetes, padarias, cafeterias e estabelecimentos congêneres podem vender água mineral à vontade, mas têm também a obrigação de servir água filtrada de graça a quem pedir –e de anunciar a prática de forma clara nos cardápios. Mais Tripoli era do ramo —já foi sócio do restaurante paulistano Capim Santo— e tem histórico alinhado a pautas ambientais. São de autoria dele as leis que baniram os canudos de plástico e os descartáveis, como copos e talheres, por exemplo.A Água da Casa, ele explica, também tem como alvo a redução do consumo de plástico —no caso, as garrafas individuais servidas nas mesas."Como o prefeito havia assinado o Novo Compromisso Global da Economia do Plástico, liderado pela Fundação Ellen MacArthur com o Programa das Nações Unidas para o Meio Ambiente, criei uma lei que desse um impulso inicial."Além de prever penalidades que variam de advertência a multa de R$ 8.000, o texto fixava o prazo de 365 dias para que os estabelecimentos se adaptassem. Em setembro de 2021, entrou em vigor.Um mês antes, porém, a Confederação Nacional de Turismo, a CNTur, que reúne 130 sindicatos patronais, ingressou com uma Ação Direta de Inconstitucionalidade no Tribunal de Justiça do Estado de São Paulo.Segundo o presidente da CNTur, Wilson Luís Pinto, a lei é uma interferência indevida do Estado e fere a livre iniciativa."Se o dono do estabelecimento quer oferecer algo de graça, por concluir que pode abrir mão desse lucro, tudo bem. Mas não pode ser obrigado."Os desembargadores do TJ paulista acolheram o pedido da CNTur e suspenderam a norma. A Procuradoria da Câmara Municipal de São Paulo apelou então para o STF.Enquanto a decisão não sai, o assunto atinge ponto de fervura nos restaurantes e bares paulistanos. Proprietário dos wine bars Bocca Nera, em Pinheiros, e Bardega, no Itaim Bibi, Rafael Ilan Bernater deixou de oferecer água de graça assim que a vigência da lei foi suspensa –-e se viu na mira de uma campanha de cancelamento pelas redes sociais."Os clientes passaram a exigir a água gratuita de forma grosseira. Teve gente segurando garçom pelo braço e advogado ameaçando fechar o estabelecimento. Fiz um post esclarecendo que a lei não está mais em vigor e, nos comentários, me chamaram de mesquinho e desumano." Mais A receita da venda de água mineral, afirma Bernater, é fundamental para fechar as contas. "Se o STF decidir que devemos dar água, vamos respeitar, como já fizemos entre setembro de 2021 e junho de 2022.Mas esse custo vai ser repassado para outros produtos. O setor já sofreu com a pandemia e vem penando com a inflação."Proprietário da rede 1900 Pizzeria, com oito unidades, Erik Momo concorda com ele. "O Estado não pode me obrigar a dar, de graça, algo que eu compro. Pago pela água da torneira, precisaria ter um filtro regulamentado para tratá-la", argumenta.A venda de água mineral é considerável em sua rede. Em 2022, por exemplo, 217 mil clientes consumiram 75 mil garrafas plásticas de 300 ml, a R$ 6,80 cada uma, diz ele. Mas a questão, segundo Momo, é mais ideológica do que financeira."A água mineral representa 7% do meu faturamento de bebidas e 0,84% da receita total. Deixar de vender água não vai quebrar meu negócio, mas me obrigar por lei não faz sentido."No campo oposto estão empresários como o chef Marco Aurelio Sena, do bar Tantin, em Pinheiros, que oferece água de graça por livre iniciativa –-e aplaude a lei municipal.Só metade dos clientes dele exige mineral engarrafada, os demais aceitam a filtrada gratuita –a casa higieniza a caixa d’água mensalmente, mantém os laudos à disposição para consulta e pôs filtros em todas as saídas, para que a água das torneiras já saia potável."Na Europa, a consciência ambiental é maior. Leis assim fazem as pessoas torcerem o nariz, mas elas existem pelo bem da comunidade e causam um prejuízo mínimo."Há também o time que oferece água gratuita, mas não concorda que a prática seja obrigatória. Dele faz parte Gil Leite, sócio do grupo Le Jazz, com quatro restaurantes, um bar e uma padaria."É uma gentileza que reforça nosso conceito francês. Quando abrimos, diziam que ninguém tomaria, mas as pessoas adoram. Se for por opção própria, acho ótimo", afirma o empresário, que mantém filtros de carvão ativado nas casas. Mais Viabilizar a oferta de água gratuita requer investimento, mas dá retorno para a imagem da casa. Sócio da hamburgueria Meat Downtown Burgers, no Jardim Paulista, Alexandre Barreiro gasta R$ 2.340 por mês para adquirir água mineral em galões de 20 litros.Ele escolheu uma marca que garante pH 9,11, dentro do considerado ideal pelo Ministério da Saúde. "O único processo é abastecer as jarras de 1,2 litro e gelar. O retorno vem na forma de simpatia."Nas lanchonetes Milk & Mellow, o proprietário Paulo Bueno oferece mais de uma opção à água mineral. De graça, os clientes podem tomar água filtrada em carvão ativado, mas quem preferir um copão de 400 ml com água purificada e pH neutro paga R$ 3."Cerca de 65% do público pede água na mesa e, desses, 30% preferem a purificada. Só uns 2% escolhem a filtrada", ele diz.Embora tenha apoiado a Ação Direta de Inconstitucionalidade movida pela CNTur, a Associação Brasileira de Bares e Restaurantes de São Paulo emitiu um comunicado aos seus associados lembrando que a questão vai muito além dos aspectos legais: "A entidade recomenda manter, quando solicitada, a água filtrada gratuita. Cortesia e atenção fazem parte de um bom atendimento, que fideliza clientes". | comida |
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] | Quem visita o Nordeste brasileiro encontra uma culinária que mescla sabores do mar e da terra, com frutas e animais estrelando pratos originais ou releituras de clássicos com ingredientes locais. Nas capitais da região, restaurantes têm renovado a cena gastronômica local. Veja a seguir casas para conhecer.NO RECIFEArvo Com horta própria e ambiente aberto com árvores, oferece no almoço refeição com três pratos por R$ 79,90. Para começar, linguiça de atum grelhada na banha de porco, servida com farofa de beiju e vinagrete de caju. Depois, nos principais, dá para escolher entre um prensado de porco empanado, com chutney de abacaxi, homus de cenoura e pão lavash ou peixe grelhado, acompanhado de molho de coco e purê de couve-flor. Vale finalizar a refeição com um picolé cremoso de chocolate branco recheado com morango, coberto de nibs de cacau e castanha do Pará. R. Djalma Farias, 170, Torreão. Recife, Pernambuco. Almoço, ter. a dom., das 11h45 às 16h. Jantar, ter. a sáb., às 19h à 0h. Instagram: @arvorestaurante. Reservas disponível apenas no jantar.Cá-já Traz, no almoçou ou jantar, ingredientes tradicionais de Pernambuco. Para abrir o apetite, entradas como caruru, feito com camarão, quiabo, dendê, amendoim e castanha (R$ 16), ou caldo de mariscos (R$ 15). Nos pratos individuais, oferece yaki com carne de sol (R$ 45), nhoque de inhame com ragu de chambaril (músculo com osso da perna do boi), por R$ 56. Quem for em grupos maiores, pode pedir peixadas (R$ 144), galinhadas (R$ 100) ou favadas (R$ 122) para compartilhar. Detalhe, no almoço de terça à sexta, a caipirinha de limão sai por R$ 10. R. Carneiro Viléla, 648, Aflitos. Recife, Pernambuco. Instagram: @vempracaja. Telefone: (81) 3126-0648. Mais EM FORTALEZACasa Coral Aberto há uma semana, tem no menu opções para o dia todo. Para café da manhã ou brunch, traz bowls de frutas (R$ 16), ovos ou toasts, como a de camarões flambados, aioli de manjericão, abacate e salada verde (R$ 38). No almoço, alternativas leves como a salada de búfala e melancia (R$ 42) ou quiche de alho-poró com gorgonzola (R$ 25). Na carta de drinques, clássicos como caipirinha ($ 22) e rabo de galo (R$ 26). Rua dos Tabajaras, 450, Praia de Iracema. Fortaleza, Ceará. Sex. e sáb, das 10h às 21h. Dom., das 10h às 17h. Atendimento por ordem de chegada ou reserva. Instagram: @nacasacoralEM NATALNau Durante passeios turísticos por Natal, guias potiguares costumam lembrar que descendem de uma população indígena que tinha, entre os hábitos alimentares, o de comer camarão. O restaurante Nau, que tem unidades em outros estados, encontra no Rio Grande do Norte a matéria-prima de uma grande variedade de pratos à base do crustáceo —já que o estado é um dos grandes produtores do ingrediente no país. Em um ambiente moderninho e amplo, tem mais de duas páginas de sugestões que têm apenas o camarão como protagonista. Entre elas, está o mar vermelho, com camarões envoltos em farinha panko, servido com arroz de moqueca (R$ 112, para duas ou até três pessoas). Vale sentar perto do grande janelão de vidro que dá direito a vista para um espelho d'água situado abaixo da construção de concreto —que tem ares da arquitetura brasiliense. Av. Odilon Gomes de Lima, 1.772, Cidade Jardim, Natal. @naurestauranteMarechal Restaurante Oferece menu especial (R$ 109) e executivo (R$ 69) com três pratos no almoço e no jantar. Mais barato, o executivo tem entradas com tartare de steak ou croquete de peixada, seguidas de moqueca de peixe, paillard de linguine artesanal ou picadinho de filé mignon. No cardápio especial, para começar, carpaccio ou stick de mandioquinha. Os principais incluem camarão com bacon ou escalope de mignon, combinado com mousseline de mandioquinha, pralineé de nozes e farofa de amêndoas. Para finalizar, tartellete de chocolate. Av. Hermes da Fonseca, 880, Petrópolis. Natal, Rio Grande do Norte. Seg. a qua., das 17h à 0h. Qui. a sáb, das 12h à 0h. EM SALVADOROmí Dentro do Fera Palace Hotel, oferece almoços a preço fixo durante a semana, com opções de dois (R$ 79) ou três pratos (R$ 99). Na entrada, dá para escolher entre tatare de angus, ceviche de caju ou camarão crocante. Depois, no principal, traz alternativas brasileiras como baião de dois com carne de panela suína ou italianas, como o parpadelle, combinado com ragu de brisket, tomates assados e picles de cebola. Se escolheu a opção com três etapas, pode pedir sobremesa: bolo branco com frutas vermelhas e farofa de suspiro ou rocambole de brigadeiro de abacaxi. Rua Chile, 20, Centro Histórico. Salvador, Bahia. Almoço, de ter. a sáb., das 12h às 15h. Dom., das 12h às 17h. Jantar, de qua. a sáb., das 19h às 23h. É preciso reservar de forma antecipada. Instagram: @omirestaurante | comida |
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] | Até mesmo para quem segue aproveitando o home office, o jantar pode ser uma refeição complicada. Dificilmente se quer comer a mesma coisa do almoço, mas também são poucas as forças para ir à cozinha e preparar algo novo. Nessa, o delivery, geralmente caro e gorduroso, acaba sempre sendo a solução.Para te ajudar a romper com esse padrão, selecionamos quatro receitas que ficam prontas em menos de uma hora e que vão salvar o seu jantar a semana toda, provando que a última refeição do dia pode ser, ao mesmo tempo, saudável, gostosa e rápida de preparar.Para tudo ficar ainda mais fácil, uma pequena dose de planejamento é sempre bem-vinda para otimizar o tempo na cozinha. Se você tem poucos ingredientes na despensa, planeje uma passadinha no supermercado, compre o que precisa e deixe tudo no jeito —os feijões sempre precisam ficar de molho, por exemplo.Se não tiver ou esquecer de algum ingrediente, como a carne seca ou o atum fresco, por exemplo, basta substituí-los por equivalentes, como a carne moída comum e o atum em lata. O importante é construir os próprios sabores e comer bem!Confira abaixo quatro receitas para cozinhar quando se está cansado: Mais Estas almôndegas vão bem com molho, acompanhando arroz, no macarrão ou consumidos como aperitivo, sem o molho. Para deixar mais leve, em vez de usar bacon, faça o refogadinho em uma colher de sopa de azeite e, no lugar de fritar, asse as almôndegas em uma assadeira antiaderente.Tempo: até 1 hora Rendimento: 16 unidadesIngredientes:Preparo:Tempo: até 1 hora Rendimento: 8 porçõesIngredientes:Preparo:Receita do restaurante espanhol Don Curro, publicada na seção "Avental" da coluna que Joyce Pascowitch manteve na Folha de S. Paulo por mais de uma década. Uma taça de vinho branco Marquês de Riscal e uma dose extra de azeite de oliva, ambos espanhóis, são os acompanhamentos perfeitos para essa salada.Tempo: 20 minutos Rendimento: 1 porçãoIngredientes: Preparo: Mais Receita do chef e apresentador Carlos BertolazziTempo: até meia hora Rendimento: 4 porçõesIngredientes:Preparo: | comida |
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] | O chef anglo-israelense Yotam Ottolenghi ama vegetais. Tanto que, há anos, ele se dedica a descobrir novas e diferentes maneiras de prepará-los —sempre com muito sabor. Não à toa, a palavra é o título do seu novo livro, que acaba de chegar ao Brasil pela Companhia das Letras.Em "Sabor", Ottolenghi e sua parceria de cozinha Ixta Belfrage (cuja mãe é brasileira) ensinam como deixar os vegetais mais saborosos, transformando-os em pratos surpreendentes e irresistíveis. Uma das receitas do livro é o que ele chama de "ragu de forno definitivo", que está entre os favoritos dos filhos do chef —que ainda não gostam muito de vegetais, mas estão aprendendo a gostar através de pratos como esse."É possível criar coisas muito mais deliciosas e nutritivas se você cozinhar em casa. Precisamos construir nossos próprios sabores", disse Ottolenghi à Folha, citando a receita, que dura três dias na geladeira e até um mês no congelador. Por isso, vale seguir a dica do chef, fazer a receita duplicada e guardar parte dela para consumir outro dia. Ele lembra também que, caso você não tiver algum ingrediente, como a harissa, pode seguir com o restante da receita sem problemas. Mais Rende de 6 a 8 porçõesEm nossa missão de criar o melhor ragu sem carne (durante a qual Ixta quase perdeu a vontade de viver, mas isso já aconteceu uma ou duas vezes antes), foram inventadas versões suficientes para afundar um grande navio. Não há como negar que a lista de ingredientes é extensa, mas todos eles estão lá para dar ao ragu seu fantástico toque de umami. O método, no entanto, não poderia ser mais simples. Se você tiver um processador de alimentos, parte dos ingredientes pode ser batida na função pulsar até ficarem finamente picados, poupando bastante tempo e esforço. O ragu dura na geladeira até 3 dias, ou no freezer por um mês, pronto para ser servido com qualquer coisa, de macarrão a polenta, ou usado como base para lasanha ou bolo de batata. Para estes dois últimos, cozinhe um pouco menos o ragu, pois ele vai continuar cozinhando no forno. Obrigado a Emily Moore e Josh Renaut, que, enquanto recém-convertidos ao veganismo, levaram incansavelmente para casa cada versão deste ragu, para dar seus atenciosos feedbacks.Ingredientes:Modo de preparo:1. Preaqueça o forno de convecção a 190°C (ou o forno comum a 210°C).2. Trabalhando em levas, coloque a cenoura, a cebola, o shimeji, o funghi, o alho e o tomate em um processador de alimentos e bata na função pulsar até que tudo esteja finissimamente picado (ou pique tudo finamente à mão).3. Coloque os ingredientes picados em uma assadeira antiaderente grande de 36 × 28 cm com o azeite, o missô, a harissa, o extrato de tomate, o shoyu e as sementes de cominho e misture muito bem. Asse por 40 minutos, mexendo na metade do tempo, até ficar dourado nas bordas e começar a borbulhar.4. Reduza a temperatura do forno de convecção para 180°C (ou do forno comum para 200°C). 5. Coloque todos os ingredientes restantes na assadeira, junto com 150 ml de água, ⅓ de colher (chá) de sal e um giro bem generoso do moedor de pimenta-do-reino. Mexa muito bem, raspando as laterais e o fundo crocantes com uma espátula. Cubra bem com papel-alumínio e asse por mais 40 minutos. Retire o papel-alumínio e asse por 5 minutos. Deixe descansar por 15 minutos, para que o molho seja ligeiramente absorvido, antes de servir. | comida |
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] | A Secretaria de Agricultura e Abastecimento do Estado de São Paulo informou que vai investigar o chefe da equipe de fiscais que apreenderam e destruíram os queijos artesanais da Cabanha Mulekinha, produtores de Ibiúna, no interior de São Paulo. No domingo, dia 19, circulou entre chefs e gente do setor gastronômico um áudio em que a queijeira Luzita Camargo, aos prantos, se queixava da atuação de funcionários da Vigilância Sanitária paulista, que haviam confiscado seu estoque.Nesta segunda, dia 20, Luzita e Airton Camargo, ambos donos da Cabanha Mulekinha, tiveram uma reunião no gabinete do secretário de Agricultura, Antonio Julio Junqueira de Queiroz. Saíram de lá com a promessa de que o prejuízo que tiveram poderá ser ressarcido.O órgão do governo diz que vai investigar a atuação da fiscalização e também concedeu a eles o Sisp, certificado do Serviço de Inspeção de Produtos de Origem Animal do Estado de São Paulo, que permite a produção artesanal de queijos. Afirma ainda que o fiscal em questão deverá ser afastado."A atuação do fiscal contrariou a orientação da atual gestão de sempre orientar os produtores sobre as exigências da legislação, antes de qualquer medida punitiva", diz nota da secretaria enviada à reportagem. "A pasta imediatamente instaurou procedimento para apuração do ocorrido."A Folha tentou localizar o funcionário responsável pela fiscalização, mas não obteve o contato dele até a publicação deste texto.Apesar do desfecho, os dois produtores dizem que saem traumatizados do episódio que começou na sexta-feira, dia 17. Faltava pouco para a hora do almoço quando eles receberam a visita de um fiscal, lotado na regional de Sorocaba da Coordenadoria de Defesa Agropecuária, a CDA. Mais Inicialmente o casal comemorou. Havia seis meses, desde que finalizaram as obras de adequação da queijaria conforme as exigências do Sisp, que eles esperavam pela visita da fiscalização."Investimos cerca de R$ 300 mil nas obras. Construímos barreira sanitária, vestiários separados, compramos equipamentos de inox e todos os revestimentos exigidos, mas ele [o fiscal] sempre alegava que não tinha pessoal para fazer a vistoria", afirma Luzita.Acompanhado de duas representantes da Vigilância Sanitária de Ibiúna, município onde se localiza a queijaria, o funcionário teria dito que a ouvidoria da Secretaria de Agricultura e Abastecimento havia recebido uma denúncia sobre o funcionamento irregular da queijaria —e autuou o estabelecimento por fabricar e comercializar os queijos sem selo de inspeção de órgão oficial, o que representaria um risco à saúde pública.No momento da autuação, havia 266,5 quilos de queijos e sete quilos de doce de leite nas instalações da Cabanha Mulekinha. O estoque foi todo destruído pela equipe. "Foi um dia de terror. Registrei tudo em vídeos. Depois de tudo, ele fez a vistoria da fábrica, aquela que estávamos esperando havia seis meses", conta Luzita, exibindo o termo de fiscalização registrado às 14h25.Um áudio de Luzita chorando, implorando para que seus queijos não fossem parar no lixo, foi repetidamente compartilhado entre chefs pelo Instagram. Nos comentários, mensagens de apoio aos queijeiros dividiam espaço com cobranças dirigidas ao novo governador de São Paulo, Tarcísio de Freitas (Republicanos).Na noite de domingo, 19 de março, os proprietários da Cabanha Mulekinha e os representantes da Associação Paulista do Queijo Artesanal, a APQA, foram convocados para uma reunião, no dia seguinte, na Secretaria de Agricultura e Abastecimento de São Paulo.Presidente da entidade, Christophe Faraud foi ao encontro acompanhado de seu vice, Peèle Lemos, cuja queijaria, a Lano-Alto, foi alvo de um episódio parecido em 2021 e foi o estopim para a criação do novo Selo do Queijo Artesanal, regulamentado em 22 de junho de 2022.Segundo Faraud, o selo criado pela lei federal de nº 13.860 deveria ter trazido benefícios para pequenos produtores, já que a nova regulamentação adapta as exigências à realidade da produção artesanal e simplifica o processo de certificação. Mas isso não aconteceu, ele diz."Na prática, não mudou nada. Como já acontecia antes, acabamos dependendo dos fiscais, muitos dos quais não têm qualquer preparo. O que aconteceu com a Cabanha Mulekinha é surreal, não há outra palavra."Proprietários da Queijaria Rima, especializada em queijos de leite de ovelha, Maria Clara e Ricardo Rettmann fazem coro. Localizados em Porto Feliz, eles deram entrada no processo de certificação pelo Sisp em abril de 2021 e levaram oito meses para obtê-la. O fiscal encarregado das vistorias era o mesmo que vistoriou a Cabanha Mulekinha."A queijaria estava pronta, acumulando pó, mas a cada visita o fiscal fazia mais exigências. Ao final, quando chegou a hora de emitir o laudo, ele se recusou a usar o wi-fi do nosso escritório e avisou que só o faria na volta de suas férias, dali a um mês", conta Maria Clara. "Pequenos produtores não conseguem lidar com essa falta de celeridade nos processos. Não temos fôlego para isso."Ao final da reunião, que durou cerca de três horas, os representantes dos queijeiros saíram do gabinete com mais duas promessas do secretário. Mais "O fiscal que autuou a queijaria erroneamente foi temporariamente afastado, e a Secretaria de Agricultura se comprometeu a montar uma equipe exclusiva e treinada para lidar com produtores artesanais, como a lei já exigia. Foi um dia histórico", disse Faraud.Leia a seguir a nota enviada pela Secretaria de Agricultura e Abastecimento."A Secretaria de Agricultura e Abastecimento do Estado de São Paulo comunica que, no episódio da apreensão de queijos da Cabanha Mulekinha, há fortes indícios de que a atuação do fiscal da Coordenadoria de Defesa Agropecuária contrariou a legislação vigente. A pasta imediatamente determinou a instauração de procedimento para apuração do ocorrido. Em decorrência da gravidade do ato praticado, cautelarmente, foi determinado o afastamento do profissional, que permanecerá realizando trabalhos internos, até o encerramento do processo de apuração.A análise feita no pedido de registro no Serviço de Inspeção de Produtos de Origem Animal (Sisp) resultou na sua aprovação, o que corrobora a suspeita de atuação irregular do fiscal, na apreensão e destruição dos produtos. A atuação do fiscal contrariou o artigo 3º, da lei estadual nº 17.453, de 18/11/2021, quanto ao caráter preventivo e orientativo da inspeção sanitária, e expressa determinação da Secretaria de Agricultura de sempre orientar os produtores sobre as exigências da legislação, antes de qualquer medida punitiva.De acordo com o secretário Antonio Julio Junqueira, após a finalização da apuração, caso fique comprovado que a Secretaria de Agricultura errou, haverá o ressarcimento do prejuízo causado à agroindústria.Sem prejuízo das providências determinadas, a Coordenadoria de Defesa Agropecuária fará revisão dos procedimentos, reciclagem e treinamento de todos os profissionais que atuam na inspeção e fiscalização." | comida |
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] | Limão, azeite e alho são a base de muitas refeições de despensa, um trio harmonioso que uso para aromatizar praticamente tudo - peixe, frango, legumes, cereais – e que só deixo de lado nas sobremesas porque, bem, o alho... Muitas vezes enriquecida com flocos de pimenta e parmesão, a combinação faz com que qualquer prato ganhe um sabor profundo e complexo, sem que o cozinheiro tenha de fazer um grande esforço para chegar lá. É uma alquimia fácil, sem esforço, que nunca falha.No entanto, por mais sólida que essa combinação possa ser, há momentos em que uma pessoa sente aquela vontade de chacoalhar as coisas. Isso é especialmente verdade no começo do ano, quando novas ideias parecem prometer um amanhã ousado e surge uma necessidade repentina de renovar hábitos antigos e confiáveis.E assim, recentemente, quando decidi preparar uma das minhas receitas habituais de macarrão, deixei de lado a garrafa de azeite extra virgem em que costumo confiar e, em lugar disso, apanhei manteiga na geladeira, e a coloquei em uma frigideira para esquentar, até derreter e dourar, o que encheu a cozinha de um aroma doce e agradável.Depois, em lugar de acrescentar lascas finas de alho fritas na gordura, como costumo, coloquei na mistura amêndoas fatiadas, que se assemelham ao alho mas têm um sabor suave, e não pungente. Deixei a combinação tostar e dourar, para com isso acentuar os sabores da manteiga castanha e acrescentar um lado crocante.Quanto ao limão - a única parte da trindade original que decidi manter —misturei casca e suco, e depois acrescentei um toque picante aspergindo flocos de pimenta e queijo parmesão.Por fim, para transformar a coisa toda em uma refeição de uma panela só, acrescentei punhados de rúcula, e acompanhei enquanto ela derretia no macarrão quente, ganhando uma consistência sedosa mas sem perder seu lado apimentado.O resultado final foi um macarrão que nada tinha em comum com o seu predecessor, temperado com azeite de oliva e alho, mas era brilhante e picante, quente e amanteigado de um modo todo seu, e delicioso —um prato novinho em folha mas com raízes antigas e veneráveis.Tipicamente, para esse tipo de receita minimalista, minha recomendação é que os melhores ingredientes sejam usados: o melhor Parmigiano-Reggiano; um macarrão artesanal escoado em um escorredor antigo, de bronze; manteiga cara e com alto teor de gordura; e produtos semelhantes.Mas depois de testar a receita diversas vezes com um vasto espectro de ingredientes, posso garantir que as versões produzidas com produtos comuns de supermercado eram quase tão boas quanto as feitas com produtos mais caros. Por isso, podem utilizar o que tiver em casa. O jantar mesmo assim será delicioso –o que, afinal, é o objetivo de uma verdadeira refeição de despensa.MACARRÃO COM MANTEIGA E LIMÃO, AMÊNDOAS E RÚCULA receita de Melissa ClarkManteiga dourada, amêndoas crocantes e limão picante fazem um molho rico mas equilibrado para esse macarrão fácil de preparar com aquilo que você tiver na despensa. A rúcula adiciona frescor e arredonda a massa, o que permite preparar essa receita rápido e com uma panela só. Se você quiser aumentar o teor de vegetais, dobre a quantidade de rúcula (basta acrescentar um pouco mais de suco de limão.) E se você não tiver rúcula cultivada (ou selvagem) à mão, espinafre ou couve são bons substitutos, embora ligeiramente mais suaves. Não economize nos flocos de pimenta vermelha; seu lado picante ajuda a harmonizar os sabores.Rendimento: Quatro a seis porções Tempo total: 25 minutosIngredientes:Preparo: | comida |
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] | A cena se repete na geladeira: você abre a porta em busca de um tempero fresco para adicionar em uma receita, mas encontra um saquinho com folhas amarelas, queimadas ou que já passaram do ponto de consumo.Coentro, manjericão, alecrim e outras ervas são essenciais para dar sabor na hora de cozinhar, mas se perdem com facilidade sem cuidados na hora de comprar e armazenar.A atenção deve começar no caminho entre mercado e casa: deixe os temperos em uma sacola separada ou lembre-se de colocá-los por cima da compra, para as folhas não se machucarem, lembra o chef Carlos Siffert, professor da Escola Wilma Kövesi de Cozinha. Se chegarem murchas em casa, você pode colocá-las em uma vasilha com água e gelo para recobrar a forma anterior.Abaixo, veja quatro formas de conservar diferentes ervas, variando de acordo com o grau de resistência de cada uma, com dicas de Siffet, também um dos autores do livro "400 g: Técnicas de Cozinha" (Companhia Editora Nacional; 400 págs.).Ervas com folhas mais delicadas, como coentro e alguns tipos de manjericão (como o genovês), podem ser armazenadas em copos ou jarras menores com água. Isso vai evitar que as folhas passem por fricção ou que queimem com a temperatura mais baixa da geladeira. O ideal é usar um recipiente fino e comprido,trocar a água todos os dias e evitar áreas de exposição direta ao sol. As folhas conseguem se manter por alguns dias assim, mas o método vai funcionar melhor em locais com temperatura ambiente mais fresca.O ideal é deixar para lavar ervas delicadas (como dill) e com folhas mais recortadas (como coentro e salsinha) na hora de usar. Isso porque essas reentrâncias acumulam água, que dificulta a conservação das ervas. Mas, se você precisar simplificar a dinâmica, pode fazer a limpeza com água e higienizador, depois deixar secar no escorredor, em cima de papel toalha ou pano de prato.Quando estiver bem seco, guarde em potes ou saquinhos Ziplock entremeando as ervas com folhas de papel-toalha, que vão absorver a umidade residual. Se for necessário, troque essas folhas ao longo dos dias. Conserve em potes fechados e na gaveta em que há menor exposição ao frio. Plantas de folhas mais resistentes, como alecrim, tomilho, hortelã, manjericão e orégano, também podem seguir as mesmas etapas. Mais Usar o congelador é uma opção para conservar ervas, mas existem alguns poréns. Algumas não funcionam bem nesse ambiente, em especial o coentro e hortelã. Além disso, as ervas congeladas podem ser usadas para dar sabor, mas não para finalização —ao descongelar, vão estar úmidas, difíceis de salpicar e de serem usadas como decoração. Cebolinha e salsinha podem ser guardados já picadinhos em porções menores em potinhos ou sacos Ziplock, higienizados e bem secos. Outras ervas que também podem ser congeladas: orégano, tomilho, alecrim, sálvia, manjerona e dill. Uma opção para guardar manjericão e dill é processar essas ervas levemente com um pouco de azeite, quase como se fosse um pesto. Congele e use para dar sabor a cozidos, assados, molhos, sopas e risotos.Representantes mais resistentes das ervas, como alecrim, manjerona, orégano, louro, tomilho e segurelha podem ser conservadas secas. Para isso, amarre as pontas dos caules e pendure em um ponto seco e arejado da cozinha, sem incidência de luz solar direta. Assim, elas vão secando lentamente e podem ser, depois, guardadas em vidros para uso. Mais | comida |
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] | Uma vantagem desta sobremesa delicada e deliciosa, batizada em homenagem à bailarina russa Anna Pavlova, é que a base de merengue pode ser feita com antecedência.Para servir a pavlova, regue os morangos com um pouquinho de vinagre balsâmico e baunilha (essa combinação ressalta ao máximo o sabor essencial da fruta), bata o creme de leite em chantili e arrume tudo sobre um prato. É magnífico e facílimo de fazer.Rendimento 6 porções Preparo 2 horasINGREDIENTESPREPARO1.Para preparar o merengueAqueça o forno a 180º C. Forre uma assadeira com papel-manteiga e desenho um círculo no papel, usando uma forma de bolo de 20 a 22 cm como guia. Vire o papel manteiga do outro lado para deixar a marcação a lápis do lado de baixo (para evitar que o lápis seja transferido para o merengue). Na tigela de uma batedeira elétrica, combine as claras e o sal. Comece batendo em velocidade baixa e vá aumentando gradualmente. Continue até se formarem picos acetinados (ponto de suspiro). Vá incorporando o açúcar uma colher por vez até o merengue ficar firme e brilhante.2.Adicione o amido de milho, o vinagre de vinho branco e a baunilha e mexa delicadamente. Coloque sobre o papel manteiga, dentro do círculo, e molde para formar um disco, achatando a parte superior e alisando os lados. Coloque no forno e imediatamente reduza a temperatura para 150ºC. Asse por uma hora e 15 minutos. Desligue o forno e deixe o merengue esfriar completamente dentro do forno. Mais 3. Para a cobertura Numa tigela, combine os morangos, a baunilha, o vinagre balsâmico e o açúcar. Cubra com filme plástico. Deixe em temperatura ambiente por pelo menos 15 minutos e até duas horas.4. Para servir Retire o merengue do papel-manteiga com cuidado e coloque sobre uma travessa de bolo. Usando as costas de uma colher de sopa, quebre a parte superior delicadamente para criar um espaço raso para o chantilly e os morangos. Bata o creme de leite até ficar com espessura suficiente para criar picos e espalhe sobre o merengue assado. Cubra o chantili com morangos, deixando um pouco do líquido deles escorrer sobre o chantili. Sirva imediatamente. | comida |
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] | A receita de um ovo mexido de "café da manhã de hotel" ficou famosa nas redes sociais da cozinheira Larissa Januário graças à explicação detalhada do processo.O ponto-chave da preparação, explica ela, que também é apresentadora do canal Sabor e Arte, é o controle da temperatura da panela –se o ovo estiver coagulando muito rápido, é preciso retirá-la do fogo e continuar mexendo em cima da pia ou em outra boca.Em seu perfil do Instagram, ela conta que provou a receita pela primeira vez há 15 anos em um café da manhã preparado pelo futuro marido, o também cozinheiro e apresentador Gustavo Rigueiral –os dois estão juntos desde então.Veja o passo a passo do ovo mexido, que não precisa de leite ou creme de leite para ficar cremoso.IngredientesPreparo | comida |
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] | Molhos são elementos que ajudam a dar sabor a saladas quando você quer reunir em uma receita ingredientes dando sopa na geladeira ou não tem tempo de preparar algo mais complexo.Veja, a seguir, três sugestões que incluem itens do dia a dia (como parmesão, manga e até açaí) e outras duas versões que dão uma cara mais sofisticada aos verdes –mas sem gastar muito tempo.Tempo: 15 min + 15 minutos de descanso (opcional) Rendimento: cerca de oito porçõesIngredientesPreparoTempo: 15 min Rendimento: 4 a 6 porções Receita da chef Mariana SgarioniIngredientes PreparoTempo: 15 minutos Rendimento: 4 porções Receita do chef Sauro Scarabotta:IngredientesPreparoTempo: 15 min Rendimento: 250 gramas Receita do livro "400g - Técnicas de Cozinha"IngredientesPreparo Mais Tempo: 30 min + 10 min (caso queira tirar a casca do pimentão) Rendimento: 8 porçõesIngredientesPreparo*Caso queira retirar a casca do pimentão, espete-o em um garfo, e deixe queimar a pele de todos os lados em fogo baixo com cuidado. Depois, abafe em um saco plástico e retire a pele com ajuda de uma faca ou as mãos Mais | comida |
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] | Os já famosos "food halls" de Nova York, que são uma espécie de praça de alimentação com restaurantes mais gastronômicos, devem ganhar mais um irmão nos próximos meses: o Market 57, no Pier 57 do Hudson River Park.O novo espaço receberá 15 negócios comandados exclusivamente por mulheres, negros e indígenas, com curadoria da Fundação James Beard. A entidade, uma das mais respeitadas da gastronomia americana, também é conhecida por seus prêmios destinados a restaurantes, chefs e autores, entre outros.Além da curadoria dos quiosques, a fundação também vai operar dois espaços proprietários no Market 57. O "Good to Go by JBF" funcionará como uma incubadora onde novos talentos se revezam na cozinha; já o "PLATFORM by JBF" será um espaço educacional e uma cozinha-vitrine, recebendo residências de chefs, experiências gastronômicas e uma rica programação de artes, culinária e eventos."Nova York está repleta de uma enorme variedade de culturas, tradições e influências culinárias, e os negócios do Market 57 refletem essa diversidade", explicou Clare Reichenbach, CEO da James Beard Foundation, cujos programas de impacto ajudaram a formar boa parte dos inquilinos do novo empreendimento. Mais "Estamos felizes em trazer comida deliciosa para o lado oeste da cidade enquanto apoiamos talentos incríveis alinhados à nossa missão."Entre as opções do Market 57 estarão o Ammi’s, que oferece comida indiana caseira; o Bessou, com "uma culinária asiática caseira reinventada" e o Malai, uma sorveteria que nasceu no Brooklyn e faz sucesso com do sul da Ásia, inspiradas na infância da fundadora, a malaia Pooja Bavishi.Ainda sem data definida, o Market 57 deve abrir as portas ainda na primavera do hemisfério norte. Mais informações no site pier57nyc.comJames Beard, morto em 1986, é uma conhecida personalidade da gastronomia dos EUA. Professor, apresentador de TV e autor de livros, é conhecido como um dos pioneiros a pensar sobre a formação da cozinha americana. Mais | comida |
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] | Nesta quarta-feira (15), três restaurantes em São Paulo abrem suas cozinhas para receber chefs, ingredientes e preparos de outras regiões do Brasil —em um intercâmbio gastronômico que também acontece em sentido oposto, com representantes paulistanos visitando Salvador e Jericoacoara.Além de chefs de outros estados, São Paulo também recebe uma temporada de trufas negras, disponíveis nos restaurantes Fasano e Parigi. Vindas diretamente de Nórcia, na região italiana da Úmbria, as iguarias são colhidas apenas durante o inverno europeu. O menu especial acontece enquanto durarem os estoques.Veja abaixo informações sobre os jantares e as reservas, que devem ser feitas por telefone ou pela internet.Sur recebe o 1º Experimente Patacho em Alagoas Em São Miguel dos Milagres, o chef Serginho Jucá realiza, na cozinha da Pousada Patacho, um festival com a presença dos chefs Giovanna Grossi, do paulistano Animus e Sandy Farias (Le Brule Confeitaria, Maceió), que cozinham na sexta (17).Na sequência, Roberto Macias (Piccolla Villa, Maceió), César Santos (Oficina do Sabor, Olinda) e Rubens Salfer (chef executivo do D.O.M., casa de Alex Atala na capital paulista), também preparam juntos um cardápio. O festival promove aulas de culinária durante o dia. Cada jantar custa R$ 350. Rota Ecológica, s/n - Praia do Patacho, Porto de Pedras - Alagoas Reservas pela via direct pelo Instagram @chefserginhojuca ou pelo telefone (82) 996781687. De sexta (17) a domingo (19)Cora recebe o chef Hervé Witmeur (Jericoacora, Ceará) No seu terraço à beira do Minhocão, o Cora recebe o chef belga Hervé Witmeur, que comanda o Ello Restaurante em Jericoacoara, no Ceará. Em um menu de cinco etapas —todas servidas ao centro da mesa, para compartilhar—, Witmeur trabalha ingredientes típicos do Delta do Parnaíba, incluindo pão de tapioca, caranguejo, cajú e o bijupirá. O jantar custa R$ 250 por pessoa. R. Amaral Gurgel, 344 - Vila Buarque, São Paulo (não há estacionamento no local). Reservas apenas pelo (11) 3232-4561. Terça-feira (15/3) das 19h às 23h.Corrutela recebe o chef Caio Soter (Pacato, Belo Horizonte) O restaurante, que fica na Vila Madalena, realiza uma homenagem ao milho com a visita do mineiro Caio Soter, do Pacato, em Belo Horizonte. Preparado a quatro mãos com o anfitrião Cesar Costa, o jantar explorará a versatilidade do cereal, usando um moinho de pedra para extrair o máximo de sabor e aroma do cereal. Todo o serviço sai por R$ 300. R. Medeiros de Albuquerque, 256 - Vila Madalena, São Paulo. Reservas pelo (11) 3097-9490, pelo whatsapp (11) 95061-1784 ou pelo site: getinapp.com.br/sao-paulo/corrutela. Terça-feira (15/3), às 19h30, 20h e 20h30Charco recebe Katrin e Dante Bassi (Manga, Salvador) Em comemoração ao aniversário de 4 anos do Charco, o chef Tuca Mezzomo vai receber o casal de chefs Katrin e Dante Bassi, do baiano Manga (que recebeu menção Discovery do The World’s 50 Best Restaurants em 2022), para preparar um menu-degustação a seis mãos na noite do dia 21. Na sequência, em 28 de março, será a vez de o Manga abrir suas portas para o chef gaúcho cozinhar com o casal em Salvador. Os jantares custam R$ 400, com opção de harmonização por mais R$ 200. R. Peixoto Gomide, 1492 – Jardim Paulista. Reservas pelo whatsApp (11) 94631-4065, com sinal de 50%. Terça (21/3), às 19h30Notiê recebe Manu Buffara (Manu, Curitiba) Sempre destaque entre os melhores restaurantes da capital paulista, o Notiê, do chef Onildo Rocha, recebe a também premiada chef Manu Buffara, que comanda o seu homônimo Manu em Curitiba. Em homenagem ao mês da mulher, o jantar em nove tempos traz à São Paulo a essência da chef e do seu restaurante. O menu, que inclui vieiras e aspargos, lula e milho, ouriço e iogurte, entre outros, custa R$ 450 - os valores arrecadados serão revertidos para instituições de apoio e acolhimento à mulher. R. Formosa, 157 (entrada pelo estacionamento do Shopping Light) - Centro, São Paulo. Reservas pelo site: booking-priceless.com.br/events/mesdamulher. Terça-feira (15/3), às 19h30 Mais Temporada de Trufas Negras no Fasano No Fasano, é possível provar o sabor marcante das trufas negras em pratos que vão de R$ 480 a R$ 650. Já no Parigi, no Itaim, oferece mais opções de pratos com as trufas, incluindo o nhoque com manteiga e tartufo nero e o risoto, ambos por R$520. R. Vitório Fasano, 88 - Hotel Fasano São Paulo. Telefone: (11) 3896 4000. De segunda a quarta, das 19h às 00h. Quinta a sábado, das 19h às 1h, Domingo das 12h às 17hParigi Rua Amauri, 275, Itaim-Bibi. Telefone: (11) 3167-1575. Segunda a sexta, das 12h às 15h e das 19h à 00h. Sábado das 19h à 00h. Domingo das 12h às 17hSALVADORManga recebe Tuca Mezzomo (Charco, São Paulo) Em 28 de março, o Manga vai abrir suas portas para o chef gaúcho Tuca Mezzomo, à frente do Charco, de São Paulo, para cozinhar com chefs Katrin e Dante Bassi em Salvador. Os jantares custam R$ 400, com opção de harmonização por mais R$ 200. R. Professora Almerinda Dultra 40, Rio Vermelho, Salvador. Ter a Sex: 19h às 22h30; sáb.: das 12h30 às 15h e das 19h às 22h30. Terça (28/3) | comida |
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] | Sou do tempo em que um Toblerone era um Toblerone. O Toblerone era o chocolate suíço para quem ainda não tinha idade para chocolates suíços.Mas era suíço. Podia-se confiar nele. Se nos quisessem impingir uma das muitas imitações que havia – um Torricone ou um Tablettone–, podíamos invocar as Convenções de Genebra e aparecia imediatamente um São Bernardo com um Toblerone familiar preso à coleira, pronto para nos ressarcir.Agora já não é assim. Como conta Samuel Santos no PÚBLICO, os Toblerones já não são feitos em Berna e, como tal, já não podem ter um urso no rótulo. Ah, pois.Os Toblerones também não podem continuar a descrever-se como "Of Switzerland", porque –como é que eu hei-de dizer isto?– são fabricados na Eslováquia.Dirão os petizes que "chocolate eslovaco" não puxa tanto pelas glândulas salivares como "chocolate suíço". Mas, antes que rapem duma tablette Milka para adoçar a boca depois desta amargura, convém ter em mente que também a Milka é fabricada na velha Eslováquia chocolateira, sob o plácido olhar das icónicas vaquinhas eslovacas.A verdade é que tanto a Toblerone como a Suchard pertencem à multinacional americana Mondelez, que até 2012 se chamava Kraft, nome daquele delicioso queijo que legalmente nem sequer se pode chamar queijo.E não é só a Toblerone. Pensava que o chocolate da Cadbury era inglês? Não, é mondelês. E as pastilhas Halls? São inglesas? Não, são mondelesas. E o chocolate Green & Black? Esse é com certeza inglês. Não, é mondelês.E a Côte d’Or? É chocolate francês? Não, é mondelês. E o fermento Royal? Mondelês. E as bolachinhas Lu? E as Tuc? E as bolachas de água e sal da Jacob’s? É tudo mondelês, amiga.Felizmente Johann Jakob Tobler já está morto desde 1905. Cabe-nos a nós, de espírito aberto, experimentar os Toblerones eslovacos e tentar esquecer os suíços, porque já não existem.Ou não será melhor passar já para o bom chocolate declaradamente eslovaco, como o da Lyra? | comida |
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] | Houve um tempo em que o brasileiro podia escolher entre mais de dez tipos de arroz e algumas dezenas ou centenas de feijões. Eram produtos regionais, vendidos em mercados e feiras.Foi por pouco que essa diversidade não se perdeu. Por obra de produtores que tomaram para si a tarefa de guardar sementes esquecidas, devagarinho esses grãos coloridos começam a chegar às cozinhas de São Paulo. Chef da Enoteca Saint Vin Saint, no bairro paulistano da Vila Nova Conceição, Lis Cereja anda encantada com os feijões crioulos. "São oriundos de produções familiares, que a gente vai comprando de pouquinho em pouquinho e criando receitas para eles."O feijão-paquinha, de tom marrom-avermelhado e tamanho miúdo, entra no baião de dois com o exótico arroz-preto, mais legumes, queijo, ovo e salada (R$ 58). Triturado, vira hommus com tomates verdes em conserva e crocante de arroz -jasmim (R$ 39).A compra pingada se deve à pouca quantidade. Quem fornece os feijões para a Enoteca é a Queijaria Santo Antônio, em Passa Quatro (MG), cujo proprietário, Joãozinho Laura, é queijeiro e agricultor.Em parceria com o chef Rafa Bocaina, pesquisador dos saberes tradicionais do interior paulista, Joãozinho percorreu sítios e chácaras em busca de quem ainda plantasse feijões diferentes dos comerciais. Encontrou sete variedades. Mais "A narrativa era sempre a mesma: os produtores cultivam para consumo próprio porque ninguém se interessa em comprá-los", afirma.Os mais produtivos foram multiplicados —os feijões enxofre, paquinha e manteiga— e entraram no menu do restaurante Casa do Monjolo, que eles mantêm em Passa Quatro."O paquinha tem sabor acastanhado e, por não render caldo grosso, é bom para farofas, tropeiro e saladas. Já o manteiga é rosa bebê e dá um caldo espetacular, amanteigado", diz Rafa. O feijão-enxofre, na opinião de Joãozinho, é o mais intrigante. "Sinto um adocicado herbal muito curioso."Outra variedade salva do esquecimento, o feijão-roxinho é a estrela do baião de dois vegano (R$ 79) que a chef Priscilla Herrera prepara no restaurante paulistano Banana Verde. "O mais legal é a cor, que não se perde mesmo depois que os grãos ficam de molho."Movimento parecido acontece entre produtores de arroz. Fundador da Arroz de Altitude, José Ricardo Monteiro garimpa grãos em diversas regiões e os distribui em pequenos empórios e restaurantes.Fazem parte do portfólio da marca o arroz-preto —aquele usado pela Enoteca— e o pérola, cujos grãos de formato arredondado rendem risotos cremosos que cozinham bem mais rápido do que o arbóreo. Mais "Os agricultores têm a terra e entendem do plantio, mas não sabem apresentar os grãos. É aí que eu entro", diz Monteiro.Embora as variedades de arroz não cheguem perto da diversidade dos feijões, há muito a conhecer. Em Canas (SP), a Alto do Marins tem entre os sócios o engenheiro agrônomo Omar Villela, que mantém um campo alagado onde desenvolve cerca de 30 tipos.Uma de suas descobertas é o basmati-vermelho, que perfuma a casa enquanto ferve na panela. Uma enchente quase provocou a sua extinção, mas a empresa recuperou algumas sementes. "Pretendo plantá-lo em agosto e colher até dezembro", afirma Francisco Neto, sócio de Omar.A chef Mara Salles, do Tordesilhas, espera ansiosamente pela safra. "Tem um aroma acastanhado incrível, escandaloso de tão diferente."Segundo Alcido Wander, pesquisador da Embrapa Arroz e Feijão, foi nos anos 1970 que a diversidade começou a sumir. "A escala mudou com o beneficiamento industrial, pois era preciso abastecer a população urbana crescente."Hoje, cerca de 90% do arroz produzido no Brasil é do tipo agulhinha. "A concentração é conveniente à indústria. Para beneficiar diversos tipos, é preciso mudar constantemente a regulagem de máquinas", explica Wander. Mais Não foi diferente com o feijão. O carioca, de grãos claros rajados, foi identificado no fim dos anos 1950 e já responde por 60% da produção nacional. "O país dependia da importação de grãos e houve um esforço dos governos federal e estadual para popularizar o carioca", diz Wander.Aos poucos, o consumidor foi deixando de consumir outros tipos e os produtores, desistindo de plantar. Gigante do setor, a Camil mantém há cerca de uma década a Linha Cores, com feijões como jalo e rosinha, mas só no estado de São Paulo. Segundo a gerente de marketing, Ivy Oliveira, faltam fornecedores capazes de entregar grandes volumes.Algumas dessas sementes são nativas ou foram incorporadas a tradições alimentares locais —outras, ainda, têm sua origem ainda por mapear.Recuperar a diversidade do passado, apontam especialistas, depende de um match entre mercado, incluindo chefs de cozinha, e agricultores. É possível recorrer à Embrapa Arroz e Feijão, que mantém uma câmara fria com mais de 15 mil tipos de sementes.Aos 20 anos, Eduardo Damas, estudante de agronomia de Sanclerlândia (GO) multiplica sementes e as vende por redes sociais (@edudamas337) para todo o país. Entre os mais de cem tipos de feijão, a sensação do momento é o azul. "Descobri no Paraná e estou multiplicando. Quero ter para entregar até o fim do ano", ele conta.ONDE PROVARBanana Verde R. Harmonia, 278, Vila Madalena, zona oeste, São Paulo/SP. Instagram: @restbananaverdeCasa do Monjolo Fazenda Velha, s/n, Passa Quatro, MG. Instagram: @casadomonjoloEnoteca Saint Vin Saint R. Prof. Atílio Innocenti, 811, Vila Nova Conceição, zona sul, SP. Instagram: @enotecasaintvinsaintONDE COMPRARArroz de Altitude arrozdealtitude.comAlto do Marins altodomarins.com.brEduardo Damas Instagram @edudamas337 | comida |
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] | Por mais suculenta que seja a carne de um frango assado corretamente, o que realmente me atrai são aqueles pedaços bronzeados e crocantes de pele nas bordas da ave.Salgada, crocante e umedecida com a gordura da ave, a pele de frango tem seu melhor sabor quando temperada com alho e sal, e depois deixada sem tampa na geladeira durante algumas horas antes de ser assada.Isso dá à pele uma oportunidade de absorver todos os sabores e de secar. E quanto mais seca a pele quando a ave é colocada no forno, mais dourada e abrasadora ela será quando emergir.Para esta receita, uso coxas de frango com osso, que são ligeiramente mais fáceis de preparar do que a ave inteira, e também cozinham mais rápido. Se eu me organizar, consigo preparar o frango dessa forma mesmo em um dia de semana, temperando-o cerca de uma hora antes do momento de colocá-lo no forno.Mas o melhor é planejar o preparo de manhã, ou mesmo na noite anterior, para que a ave possa ter um bom e longo descanso na geladeira, por até 24 horas.À minha mistura habitual de tempero de alho e sal, adiciono gengibre fresco ralado, para um toque de sabor, e um pouco de óleo de gergelim tostado, para ganhar profundidade, quando preparo essa variação. Depois sirvo o prato com um molho cremoso feito de manteiga de amendoim e óleo de gergelim.Se você tiver outras coisas para fazer enquanto o frango está assando, deixe de lado o molho e sirva-o apenas com algumas fatias de limão, para abrilhantar. Mas, se tiver alguns minutos, vale a pena preparar o molho de gengibre —aveludado, picante e temperado com gengibre e alho adicionais.Uma coisa a levar em conta ao temperar o molho: ele deve ter um sabor forte e assertivo, tão picante quanto um molho de salada. A sua pungência e brilho servem para contrastar com a carne escura e firme do frango e a sua pele ainda mais crocante e rica. Não seja tímido com o vinagre e o sal; o frango aguenta.Provavelmente vai sobrar algum molho, e ele resiste bem durante cerca de uma semana na geladeira. Use-o em batatas assadas ou outros vegetais, ou dilua-o com maionese e adicione-o a qualquer resto de carne para fazer salada de frango.O molho também funciona como "dip", talvez servido com batatas fritas –cuja consistência pode lembrar o jeito crocante da pele de frango bem preparada.Frango com gengibre e molho de gergelim e amendoimRendimento 4 a 6 porçõesTempo total 45 minutos, mais pelo menos 1 hora marinandoIngredientes para o frangoIngredientes para o molho de amendoimModo de fazer 1. Prepare o frango: em uma tigela pequena, misture óleo de gergelim, sal, gengibre e alho, e esfregue a mistura em todo o frango, e por baixo da pele. Coloque o frango em uma assadeira (ou prato) com canaletas, de preferência em uma prateleira espaçosa para permitir a circulação de ar, e refrigere sem cobertura durante pelo menos uma hora, e por até 24 horas.2. Aqueça o forno a 220º C. Se o frango não estiver em assadeira com canaletas, transfira-o para uma (você pode forrá-la para facilitar a limpeza mais tarde, mas não é necessário). Seque as coxas de frango com uma toalha de papel. Regue o frango com o óleo neutro. Asse até que o frango esteja dourado e o sumo pareça transparente quando a parte mais espessa da coxa é espetada com um garfo, 30 a 40 minutos.3. Enquanto o frango estiver no forno, faça o molho de amendoim: em uma tigela de mistura média, bata molho de soja, vinagre, alho e gengibre juntos até que se misturem, e depois acrescente o óleo de gergelim e o mel. Adicione manteiga de amendoim e bata até ficar macio. Se a mistura for muito espessa (e isto depende da sua marca de manteiga de amendoim), acrescente algumas colheres de sopa de água fria até que o molho esteja espesso mas líquido.4. Transfira o frango para um prato de servir, e cuidadosamente despeje na tigela do molho de amendoim qualquer sumo que tenha restado na assadeira. Bata até misturar. Experimente o molho e acrescente mais molho de soja, vinagre ou mel, se desejar.5. Despeje o molho de amendoim sobre os pedaços de frango, ou pincele-os com ele, mas reserve algum molho para servir. Decore com cebolinhas e sirva com molho de amendoim que você reservou. | comida |
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] | Ao contrário de alguns petiscos brasileiros, a origem do dadinho de tapioca é mais conhecida: ele surgiu de uma improvisação na cozinha de Rodrigo Oliveira, conhecido chef do restaurante Mocotó, na zona norte de São Paulo, e hoje jurado do MasterChef.Certa vez, por distração, o chef deixou endurecer uma mistura de tapioca, leite, queijo, ovos e manteiga. Para não desperdiçar, resolveu cortar e fritar os cubinhos em imersão. Nascia ali um belisquete replicado em muitos outros bares e restaurantes país afora.Neste mês, os dadinhos ganham escala industrial e chegam às gôndolas dos supermercados. A novidade é fruto de uma parceria entre Oliveira e a NUU Alimentos, que se propõe a fabricar produtos congelados de maneira sustentável e com responsabilidade ambiental —o que rendeu à marca um reconhecimento na ONU como uma das 50 empresas que lideram o movimento de alimentação regenerativa no mundo."Quando recebi o convite da NUU para levar os dadinhos aos supermercados, fiquei entusiasmado porque os nossos propósitos, o que acreditamos para o futuro da alimentação, estão alinhados", explica Oliveira, que foi à fábrica da marca em Patos de Minas e participou das decisões de produção do novo produto.Nas gôndolas, o dadinho de tapioca terá duas versões. O tradicional, exatamente como é servido no restaurante Mocotó, e o vegano, preparado com leite de macadâmia e grãos fermentados, como linhaça e quinoa. Ambos serão acompanhados do tradicional molho que sempre acompanha os dadinhos, e podem ser preparados ao gosto do freguês: frito em imersão ou assado no forno ou na airfryer.Cada caixinha, com 330 gramas de dadinho e uma porção de molho, custa R$ 29,99 e estará disponível em grandes redes de supermercados de São Paulo. O aplicativo Daki, que opera na capital paulista, Rio de Janeiro e Belo Horizonte, também oferece o produto. Mais | comida |
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] | Na cidade de Paraty, no Rio de Janeiro, a fama da premiada cachaça Maria Izabel compete com a curiosidade que a sua criadora desperta. Aos 72 anos, Maria Izabel Gibrail Costa sai pouco do sítio onde construiu o alambique Paratycana, em 1996. Cabelos grisalhos presos numa longa trança que acentua os traços indígenas, ela é famosa por só andar descalça —sapatos, só em viagens e olhe lá.Quem paga R$ 10 para visitar a propriedade e comprar cachaças premiadas, que custam até R$ 450 a garrafa de 700 ml, encontra uma produção artesanal, que não passa de 7.000 litros anuais —a destilação acontece só uma vez por ano. Todo o processo é conduzido pela própria Maria Izabel, da produção do fermento, a partir de uma receita antiga que ela diz vir de seus antepassados, aos rótulos que cola à mão.Ela agora desperta outro tipo de falatório no mercado nacional de bebidas —sua cachaça está no meio de um imbróglio. O grupo pernambucano JCPM, dono de 11 shoppings no Nordeste, do Sistema Jornal do Commercio de Comunicação e de uma vinícola portuguesa chamada Quinta Maria Izabel, briga na Justiça com a alambiqueira para usar nos rótulos de seus vinhos o mesmo nome que batiza a cachaça paratiense —Maria Izabel.Tudo começou em 2013, quando o Inpi, instituto brasileiro de propriedade industrial, recebeu um pedido para registrar a marca Quinta Maria Izabel para um vinho produzido em Portugal, na região do Douro, vendido na Europa.Em 2016, quase três anos após a abertura do pedido, o Inpi indeferiu o registro alegando "reprodução com acréscimo de marca anterior, passível de causar confusão ou associação entre os sinais". Mais Ou seja, o instituto entendeu que já havia uma marca parecida no segmento de bebidas alcoólicas —no caso, a cachaça Maria Izabel, o que impossibilitou o novo registro. A quinta do Grupo JCPM entrou com recurso, mas perdeu novamente em segunda instância. Tentou, então, um acordo com a alambiqueira.Em julho de 2022, um representante da vinícola fez uma proposta em troca da convivência entre as marcas. Segundo Maria Izabel, a empresa ofereceu "até R$ 150 mil".Não houve acordo. "São duas bebidas alcoólicas vendidas no mesmo setor, pode haver confusão", diz a produtora de cachaça. "Não tenho interesse em vender ou compartilhar minha marca, que está muito associada à minha pessoa."Enquanto buscavam o acordo, os advogados da quinta tentaram anular o indeferimento da marca pelo Inpi junto à Justiça Federal. No processo, ao qual a Folha teve acesso, argumentam que não há chance de o consumidor fazer associação indevida entre o alambique e a vinícola porque, entre outros pontos, embalagens e logomarcas são diferentes. Afirmam ainda que vinhos e aguardentes são "produtos absolutamente distintos e inconfundíveis".Em tempo. A venda dos vinhos da Quinta Maria Izabel está hoje liberada no país por força de uma liminar concedida pela 2ª Vara Empresarial da Comarca do Rio de Janeiro. Em nota, o Grupo JCPM, da Quinta Maria Izabel, confirmou à Folha que "foi iniciado um diálogo na tentativa de acordo de coexistência, algo comum entre empresas que não estejam atuando ou pretendam atuar com produtos iguais e, sobretudo, localizadas em mercados distintos".O advogado Rodrigo Moraes, que representa a marca de cachaça, vê incoerência nesses argumentos. Professor de direito autoral e propriedade industrial da Universidade Federal da Bahia, ele cita outra disputa do setor de bebidas.Receba no seu email a seleção diária das principais notícias jurídicas; aberta para não assinantes.Carregando...Em 2021, a cachaça mineira João Andante perdeu o direito ao uso da marca em ação movida pela Diageo, fabricante do uísque Johnnie Walker. O processo, que chegou ao Superior Tribunal de Justiça, levou sete anos e se encerrou quando o relator decidiu que "as embalagens não eram suficientes para a distinção dos produtos comercializados pelas partes (cachaça e uísque)".Na ação, a Diageo foi representada pelo escritório Dannemann, Siemsen, Bigler & Ipanema Moreira —que agora defende a Quinta Maria Izabel e argumenta o contrário. Mais "O mesmo escritório de advocacia [...] alegou que a marca de cachaça João Andante violava a marca de uísque Johnnie Walker, tendo em vista que cachaça e uísque pertencem à ‘mesmíssima classe’, encontrando-se no mesmo segmento mercadológico", diz Moraes, defensor da alambiqueira.Por ora, o advogado tenta que a liminar seja derrubada, o que obrigaria a quinta a suspender as vendas do vinho no Brasil até que haja decisão definitiva no processo.Se os recursos chegarem ao STJ, a disputa pode levar anos. Caso vença a ação, Maria Izabel, de Paraty, tem direito de exigir indenização. Se perder, terá de conviver com a marca Maria Izabel de Portugal e pagar custos processuais. O escritório Dannemann, Siemsen, Bigler & Ipanema Moreira foi procurado duas vezes por email, mas não respondeu aos pedidos da reportagem.Em nota, o grupo JCPM diz que "respeita todos os negócios existentes e, neste momento, apenas busca o seu direito de comercializar no Brasil o vinho produzido e já registrado na Europa, região que já reconheceu, através de algumas premiações, a qualidade e dedicação da equipe da QMI [Quinta Maria Izabel] na produção do vinho". | comida |
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] | Preparar receitas de drinques não é tarefa difícil e pode funcionar como refresco para quem quiser descansar em casa e curtir o fim de semanaAbaixo, duas receitas privilegiam ingredientes simples e permitem substituições de itens —e, melhor, podem ser feitas para aproveitar em grupo de amigos.A sugestão da Mercearia do Conde, restaurante do Jardim Paulistano, zona oeste de São Paulo, leva espumante, sucos e frutas, com rendimento de cinco taças. Com estrutura parecida, a versão do Bistrot de Paris, restaurante da Villa San Pietro, na rua Augusta, é feita com vinho tinto.A última delas é a mais elaborada, para quem quiser aproveitar o feriado e experimentar um preparo menos comum do dia a dia.Confira a seguir as receitas para refrescar na data.Rendimento: 5 porçõesIngredientesModo de Preparo:Corte as frutas cubos e misture com o mel e o suco de limão. Em uma jarra grande coloque a mistura das frutas, gelo (quantidade que desejar) e suco de mexerica. Depois, coloque aos poucos o espumante, para não fazer muita espuma, e, por último, o grenadine. Sirva em taça flûte (a mesma do espumante).Rendimento: 5 porçõesIngredientesModo de Preparo:Em uma jarra, coloque o vinho tinto, o suco de laranja, o suco de limão, a tequila, o Triple sec, as rodelas de limão e de laranja. Leve à geladeira até esfriar bem. Molhe a borda de taças e, depois, reúna em um prato a mistura de açúcar, sal, raspas de limão. Passe a borda da taça por essa mistura, formando uma bordinha. Coloque dentro da taça uma rodela de limão, uma de laranja e o picado. Acrescente o líquido gelado da jarra e decore com rodela de limão e laranja.Rendimento: 1 porçãoIngredientesModo de Preparo:Para fazer o xarope, esquente uma parte de água e uma parte igual de açúcar e deixe dissolver em fogo baixo. Antes de usar, espere esfriar. Adicione todos os ingredientes, inclusive a Angostura, em uma coqueteleira com bastante gelo e bata bem. Coe em um copo baixo com gelo. | comida |
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] | Conhecida pelas publicações voltadas à arte, a editora Taschen acaba de lançar o seu primeiro livro de gastronomia. Nos próximos meses, a Phaidon, outra casa segmentada, se debruça sobre o Manu, restaurante da chef Manoella Buffara, de Curitiba.Esses lançamentos são parte de um movimento —títulos de cozinha estão deixando de ser volumes meramente práticos para virar cada vez mais objetos de desejo, entrando, inclusive, no filão do luxo. Com a transformação de chefs em celebridades, editoras passaram a apostar mais no nicho gastronômico —que só nos Estados Unidos deve crescer 8% em 2023, segundo a BookScan, empresa de análise do mercado editorial.Livros de comida surgiram como forma de registrar receitas, garantindo que preparos não ficassem na oralidade e se perdessem. Hoje viram até mesmo títulos colecionáveis.A última frente é onde se encaixa a Taschen, uma das referências do mercado, que se dedicava apenas a artes, arquitetura e design. O livro "Satoyama Cuisine", lançado ao preço de € 1.250 (cerca de R$ 7.000),é seu primeiro passo no crescente segmento.Com fotos do brasileiro Sérgio Coimbra, o volume pesa 15 quilos e apresenta, em 416 páginas, a filosofia culinária do chef Yoshihiro Narisawa, dos mais importantes do Japão. Mais "Vivemos uma nova fase dos livros de gastronomia", diz Coimbra, que faz fotos detalhistas de receitas, em geral em fundos escuros. Ele já trabalhou com chefs como o francês Pierre Hermé e o brasileiro Alex Atala. "A comida se tornou arte nas mãos desses profissionais que criam receitas com um rico cuidado estético. Os livros querem dar conta dessa perspectiva", diz.O crescimento dessa demanda tem levado editoras a aumentar seus investimentos, diz Edouard Cointreau, criador do World Cookbook Awards, importante premiação do setor. Ele afirma que há uma mudança no mercado de livros de receitas desde a pandemia de 2020. "Ela trouxe pessoas de volta à leitura e à culinária. Estimo que a taxa de crescimento dos livros de gastronomia será o dobro da taxa os convencionais no ano."Para Cointreau, há também uma tendência de que os livros de comida substituam os de viagens. "Há muito interesse por livros gastronômicos que mostrem destinos e paisagens, em que a fotografia é tão ou mais importante que as próprias receitas", diz.Prova disso é a aposta da Phaidon, em publicar uma edição sobre o Manu. Mais do que abordar apenas o restaurante curitibano, o livro, que deve ser lançado em abril, traz o entorno do trabalho da chef, sua relação com fornecedores, além dos ingredientes locais que utiliza em suas receitas."Manu - Recipes and Stories from My Brazil" reúne "temas, frases e pensamentos" que a chef escreveu em pequenos cadernos nos últimos anos. O livro contém receitas e fotografias com apelo muito visual. "Mas também resume suas ambições, processos e desejo de construir conexões mais fortes dentro de suas comunidades", diz a editora Emily Takoudes, da Phaidon.Além de publicar edições sobre restaurantes de distintos países, como do brasileiro D.O.M., de Atala, Takoudes diz estar sempre de olho em chefs emergentes. "Antes até que tenham estrelas Michelin, prêmios e [reconhecimento da] imprensa", afirma.Cada vez mais, também, ela diz que a Phaidon está interessada em países, regiões ou assuntos com receitas e ensaios sobre uma determinada cultura alimentar, que possa levar o leitor a se aprofundar sobre uma determinada cozinha ou tema. "Estamos desenvolvendo nossa nova subcategoria de livros sobre bebidas."No Brasil, um dos exemplos é "Manihot Utilissima Pohl: Mandioca" (R$ 209; 416 págs.), último livro de Atala, publicado pela Alaúde. Nele, o cozinheiro reúne pesquisadores, cronistas, indigenistas e fotógrafos com a intenção de mostrar a importância da raiz na cozinha brasileira. Mais Da mesma editora, o livro "12 Ingredientes e uma Dose" (R$ 109; 224 págs.) foi lançado em janeiro e envereda pela discussão de culturas alimentares. Por meio de elementos como milho, dendê e cachaça, a publicação, escrita pelo pesquisador João Luiz Maximo da Silva e pelo especialista em azeite Sandro Marques, aborda história e práticas culturais do ato de comer no Brasil.Além do mercado de luxo, tendências editoriais também passam por livros de receitas. É o que faz Rita Lobo, que tem mais de dez livros publicados dentro do tema. O último deles, "Rita, Help! Me ensina a cozinhar", alcançou a lista de mais vendidos já no pré-lançamento, no primeiro ano de pandemia. Mais Para Cointreau, do World Cookbook Awards, os livros "precisam tentar traduzir identidades individuais muito claras, o que ajuda os leitores a ter maior interesse e queiram fazer parte do universo alimentar que representam".Por isso, as vendas em papel têm aumentado — líderes mundiais em impressões, como a Artron [na China] estão passando por um boom, segundo Cointreau, justamente em resposta a essa nova demanda. "Esses livros têm o poder de transportar o leitor para o entorno e as receitas que trazem, basta abrir a capa".‘Satoyama Cuisine’ Aborda a filosofia culinária do chef Yoshihiro Narisawa (ed. Taschen, 416 págs., cerca de R$ 7.000)‘Manihot Utilissima Pohl: Mandioca’ Do chef Alex Atala, reúne textos sobre o papel da mandioca no país (ed. Alaúde, 416 págs., R$ 209)‘Manu - Recipes and Stories from My Brazil’ Trata do trabalho da chef paranaense Manoella Buffara (ed. Phaidon, deve ser lançado em abril) | comida |
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] | "É um vício. Você começa fazendo kombucha, passa para o levain e, de repente, está cercado de potes." É assim que o programador Leonardo Alves de Andrade descreve o fascínio que a fermentação exerce sobre profissionais de cozinha e amadores.Leonardo é sócio de Fernando Goldenstein Carvalhaes na Companhia dos Fermentados, uma fabriqueta de kombucha que, em sete anos, virou o Grupo Fermentare, com loja, distribuidora, escola e editora.Escrito por Carvalhaes, o livro "Açúcar, Álcool e Vinagre: Celebrando a Arte da Fermentação", lançado em setembro do ano passado, é o segundo do autor e o primeiro da editora. Cerca de 10 mil pessoas já passaram por 18 cursos, que ensinam a fermentar vegetais e produzir missô e vermute, entre outros temas.A dupla também está prestes a lançar uma rede social dedicada ao assunto. Usuários do app Fermenta.Me, previsto para entrar em funcionamento no primeiro semestre do ano, terão perfis gratuitos para compartilhar receitas, trocar culturas de leveduras e até receber alertas na hora de mexer em algum pote."Sempre que termina um curso, os alunos se organizam em grupos de WhatsApp para tirar dúvidas. Veio daí a ideia. Não será mais um fórum de perguntas e respostas, teremos uma timeline bem dinâmica", afirma Leonardo.O tema nunca esteve tão em alta por aqui. Nos dias 29 e 30 de abril, São Paulo sedia a primeira Bora Fermentar Fest, evento com feira e cursos que terá a presença do americano Sandor Katz, popular autor de "A Arte da Fermentação". Mais O livro de Katz, lançado aqui pela editora Tapioca em 2014 e já esgotado, é a porta de entrada para boa parte dos fermentadores amadores. Foi assim com a cineasta Marina Person, que se lançou nesse universo em busca de alimentos saudáveis e já passou por vários cursos da Fermentare."Já sei fazer coalhada, iogurte, picles, kombucha e levain [fermento natural] de farinha de arroz sem glúten. Faço experimentações e ensino a vários amigos. É literalmente um bichinho que te morde e melhora sua saúde", diz.Equipamentos com nomes estranhos, como "air locker" (válvula para liberar o gás carbônico) e refratômetro (que calcula a concentração alcoólica), fazem parte da rotina dos fermentadores. Mas não é preciso ter instrumentos de laboratório para começar.Estudante de nutrição, Juliana Pião conta que fez os primeiros kombuchas numa quitinete. Hoje, instalada em um imóvel maior, já consegue produzir o próprio shoyu. "Agora os amigos se reúnem para fermentar comigo. Se aparece um feriado prolongado, a gente já calcula o que vai dar tempo de fermentar."Autora do blog de receitas Cebola na Manteiga e do ebook "Para Começar a Curtir: Fermentação de Vegetais", a mineira Carolina Dini ensina em sua escola, em Belo Horizonte, processos simples como picles e chucrute. Receitas demoradas e mais complexas, ela registra em posts no Instagram, onde acumula 54,1 mil seguidores."As pessoas acompanham como a uma novela, me veem errando e acertando. Vira entretenimento", afirma.Na cozinha profissional, a fermentação virou assunto obrigatório desde 2018, quando René Redzepi, chef do restaurante Noma, em Copenhague, lançou o livro "The Noma Guide to Fermentation".A publicação inspirou gente como Raphael Vieira, chef do 31 Restaurante, na República, centro de São Paulo. "Comecei a fermentar para aproveitar melhor os ingredientes. Como não temos forno, o tempo é um cozinheiro da equipe."Ele criou pratos como o nukadoko, picles feito com farelo de arroz, acompanhado de gema curada em garum de tomate, molho fermentado que, na Roma antiga, era produzido com entranhas de peixe.Novos negócios especializados têm pipocado por aí. São Paulo já tem duas fermentarias —a Trilha, na Barra Funda, e a Jandira, no Butantã— onde a técnica aparece em todas as seções dos cardápios. Mais Do menu da Trilha Fermentaria, o Pra Chuchar (R$ 49) inclui picles da casa, que varia conforme o dia, coalhada à base de iogurte de ovelha, relish de pepino com iogurte e pão feito da massa da pizza.Em Sorocaba, Felipe Zalewska, fundador da 1Mami, produz garuns à base de carnes ou vegetais, além de outros condimentos fermentados que já chegam a restaurantes paulistanos como o Aizomê.No Cepa, no Tatuapé, zona leste de São Paulo, o chef Lucas Dante finaliza torradas de mexilhão e peperonata com garum de carne da 1Mami. Juntos, ele e Zalewska estão fabricando um mirin, espécie de licor de arroz que também se vale da fermentação, que só estará pronto no meio do ano.Nenhum desses profissionais e amadores sabe explicar por que esse processo milenar, uma transformação bioquímica nada fotogênica, deslumbra tanta gente."Muitas vezes, é fedida também", acrescenta Carvalhaes. "Quem faz chucrute pela primeira vez sente cheiro de pum. Mas quem disse que comida tem que ser sempre instagramável?" | comida |
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] | Com seus 25.138 estabelecimentos voltados à alimentação, São Paulo tem razão para se considerar a capital gastronômica do país. Nenhuma outra cidade brasileira reúne cozinhas de tantos estados e países —passam de 50 diferentes, pela estimativa do Observatório da Gastronomia da Prefeitura de São Paulo.Tamanha diversidade é fruto da salada de povos que a cidade atraiu ao longo de 469 anos, celebrados nesta quarta, dia 25. Aprendemos a comer polenta com italianos do norte, esfiha com sírios e libaneses e sushi com japoneses.Agora, experimente sentar à mesa de um restaurante em Nápoles e pedir pizza de frango com Catupiry. Quem sabe um hot roll banhado em molho teriyaki em solo japonês?É fato que o fenômeno da apropriação se repete em outras cidades, mas em São Paulo, que se vende como meca da gastronomia mundial, tudo ganha contornos particulares. É fruto de um processo de adaptação que teve início com os imigrantes, afirma o sushiman Jun Sakamoto."A maioria dos sushimen de São Paulo aprendeu com o ajudante do ajudante do imigrante, que também não era sushiman, mas um agricultor que passou a cozinhar por necessidade", argumenta.O resultado, emenda Sakamoto, é um cardápio que passa longe da cozinha japonesa autêntica. "Sushi frito ou com cream cheese é como usar um kimono na festa à fantasia. Você parece japonês, mas não é." Mais O mesmo vale para o hábito de afundar sushis e sashimis no pratinho de shoyu —pela potência, diz Sakamoto, o molho de soja impede que se sinta o real sabor do peixe. "No Japão, os pratos têm sabores sutis e equilibrados, enquanto o brasileiro, em especial o paulistano, prefere que tudo seja muito doce ou salgado."Sócio da rede Oguru, com três restaurantes que operam em sistema de rodízio, Gabriel Fullen nem discute —sabe que precisa deixar uma quantidade farta de shoyu nas mesas. Por mês, o consumo das três casas passa de 1.100 litros.Entre os pratos, diz Fullen, nada se compara à demanda por salmão: o peixe está presente em metade dos pedidos. "Acabei de voltar do Japão e vi restaurantes oferecendo salmão como opção, mas quem pede é turista", diz Sakamoto.Processo parecido se deu com a cozinha italiana. Décadas de adaptações e improvisos resultaram em um receituário próprio da cidade.Autora de "Sabores e Memórias: Cozinha Italiana e Construção Identitária em São Paulo", tese de doutorado em antropologia social pela USP, Janine Collaço conta que os italianos se admiraram ao constatar que, na cidade, quase não se consumiam verduras e legumes. Não por acaso, massas secas, molho de tomate e pão se tornaram a base da alimentação dos imigrantes. Mais O preparo de receitas simples também esbarrou, por anos a fio, na dificuldade de acesso a produtos importados, o que explica adaptações que se consolidaram por aqui. É o caso do fettuccine alfredo, cuja receita original romana leva massa, queijo parmigiano reggiano, manteiga e só."O parmigiano de verdade derrete fácil, mas quem usa um queijo alternativo precisa recorrer a outra gordura. A solução que encontraram foi adicionar creme de leite", explica o chef italiano Marco Renzetti, da Fame Osteria.O item também foi parar na panela do espaguete à carbonara paulistano, para desgosto dos italianos. Mas por outra razão, diz o chef. "Nós gostamos de preparos mornos e alguns molhos não podem ser muito aquecidos. O carbonara deve sair da cozinha a 60ºC, senão o ovo coagula. Mas o paulistano não gosta de comida morna. Para driblar o problema, restaurantes introduziram o creme de leite."Na cozinha do Métzi, os chefs Eduardo Ortiz e Luana Sabino, ele mexicano e ela brasileira, têm trabalho com pimentas e coentro. São ingredientes praticamente obrigatórios em parte dos pratos da autêntica culinária do México, para os quais o paulistano historicamente torce o nariz. Mais "Acho que as pessoas daqui não crescem comendo isso. No meu país, usamos coentro em muitas preparações, crescemos com esse sabor", afirma o chef, que tenta vencer a resistência na base do jeitinho.A percepção tem respaldo científico. Segundo a franco-brasileira Sophie Deram, PhD em nutrição, o paladar é um combinado de fatores genéticos e culturais. Parte do que gostamos é geneticamente determinado, mas hábitos podem reforçar ou transformar essa programação."Estudos mostram que, às vezes, é preciso apresentar um sabor até 15 vezes para que a criança comece a aceitá-lo", diz. O coentro, porém, merece ser tratado de forma diferente. "Já se comprovou que algumas pessoas sentem gosto de sabonete no coentro. É importante respeitar."Mas o chef paraibano Onildo Rocha, do Notiê Priceless, em São Paulo, suspeita que o paulistano tem, sim, certa má vontade com o coentro, ingrediente que não fica de fora de seus menus. Com tato, descobriu que o item passa, nem que seja com outro nome."Faço um camarão servido com espuma de chicória-do-pará, que não passa de um coentrão. Os paulistanos comem e acham uma delícia", diz. E nem é preciso insistir.ONDE PROVAR RECEITAS À MODA ORIGINALJAPONESAAizomê Al. Maestro Cardim, 39, Jardim Paulista; aizome.com.brJun Sakamoto R. Lisboa, 55, Cerqueira César; @restaurante_junsakamotoIzakaya Issa MEXICANAMétzi R. João Moura, 861, Pinheiros; @metzirestaurantIzakaya Issa Rua Barão de Iguape, 89, Liberdade; @izakayaissaITALIANASupra di Mauro Maia R. Leopoldo Couto de Magalhães Júnior, 681, Itaim Bibi; @supradimauromaiaEataly Av. Pres. Juscelino Kubitschek, 1.489, Vila Nova Conceição, @eatalybrNino Cucina R. Jerônimo da Veiga, 30, Itaim Bibi, @nunocucinaPIZZARIASLeggera Pizza Napoletana R. Diana, 80, Perdizes; @leggerapizzanapoletanaNapoli Centrale Pça. Sir Willian Crookes, 18, Cidade Monções, @napolicentralepizza | comida |
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] | De cor roxa conferida pela flor da clitória, planta asiática, o gim-tônica servido na posse presidencial no Itamaraty levantou, dias depois, debate sobre a ausência de ingredientes, técnicas e receitas nacionais. Para mixologistas e pesquisadores, a ocasião se tornou um momento para refletir sobre como anda a coquetelaria brasileira.Entre os pratos oferecidos na recepção do dia 1º estavam bolinho de piracuí (farinha de peixe seco típica da Amazônia), acarajé e arroz carreteiro.O site Mixology News, especializado em bebidas, elogiou a "brasilidade" da composição, mas lembrou que a lógica também poderia ser usada nas escolhas etílicas —com destilados (como a tiquira, popular no Maranhão) ou bebidas típicas (caso do aluá, fermentado à base de ingredientes como abacaxi)."Podemos falar de várias identidades culturais no Brasil e, por consequência, expressões gastronômicas. Mas as bebidas acabam ocupando lugar secundário", diz Renato Monteiro, professor de bebidas do curso de gastronomia da UFRJ (Universidade Federal do Rio de Janeiro).Monteiro afirma que, para se avançar no debate sobre coquetelaria brasileira, é preciso identificar tradições de bebidas nacionais, inclusive pré-coloniais, com apoio de universidades, centros de pesquisa e profissionais do setor. Mais "Definitivamente ainda não se entendeu que o que você bebe revela o lugar de onde você vem. A bebida pode representar uma ‘decolonização’, um ciclo virtuoso de produtores, de ingredientes e de técnicas de um povo. A coquetelaria também está neste lugar", diz Néli Pereira, mixologista e pesquisadora.No fim do ano passado, ela lançou o livro "Da Botica ao Boteco – Plantas, Garrafadas e a Coquetelaria Brasileira" (ed. Companhia de Mesa; 208 págs.; R$ 59,90), em que é possível ter um panorama histórico de como bebidas com funções medicinais deixaram receituários e foram parar em bares.Além de mencionar exemplos de líquidos que fizeram essa transição no mundo, como o licor Chartreuse, a publicação destaca técnicas e ingredientes brasileiros.Um desses exemplos é a garrafada, nome que deriva dos remédios preparados por jesuítas dentro de grandes tonéis —e que, segundo a pesquisadora, são fruto do conhecimento dos povos originários sobre plantas, raízes e cipós.A mixologista estuda o sabor desses elementos desde 2013, e em 2016 lançou sua primeira carta de coquetéis brasileiros no Espaço Zebra, na Bela Vista, centro de São Paulo, que hoje funciona algumas noites por mês com reservas antecipadas.Um dos ingredientes usados ali é a jurubeba, planta comum em preparos medicinais com funções hepatoprotetoras e originária do Rio Grande do Sul. Ela virou protagonista do umami jururu, com o fruto da planta embebido em vodca e Cynar, de sabores amargos e herbáceos (R$ 35). Mais Para Márcio Silva, à frente do reality show Bar Aberto e mixologista premiado, conhecer o contexto histórico de ingredientes e de produtores é parte do desenvolvimento de uma coquetelaria nacional."Usar caju é fazer coquetelaria brasileira? Conhecer o ingrediente e a cultura em torno dele é o que traz genuinidade. Neste momento, acredito que a coquetelaria do país está em desenvolvimento."Ao abrir o Muamba Bar em Belém (PA), em 2019, a intenção de Yvens Penna era falar de coquetelaria na cidade "e não só ter um bar que servia drinques com bacuri". Como a maior parte do público é local, ele se utiliza da ligação do belenense com sua comida para fazer receitas regionais.Em um deles, a chicória, planta usada para temperar o tucupi, é ingrediente de uma margarita gaseificada. Em outro, faz um xarope de urucum para usar em um pisco sour.Três anos depois de abrir o bar, Penna criou um projeto chamado Amazônia Sour, que tem a intenção de ser "um acelerador do processo para se ter uma coquetelaria identificada como amazônica". A ideia é atuar em diversas frentes, como a qualificação de produtores e de mão de obra.Com apoio do Sebrae e da Universidade da Amazônia, o projeto ofereceu treinamento a 110 profissionais no ano passado para falar de temas como história da coquetelaria e hospitalidade. A ideia é que, neste ano, o resultado seja visto em um circuito de coquetelaria amazônica envolvendo bares, restaurantes e hotéis da capital do Pará."Basicamente o que fazemos é antropofagia: trazer referências de fora e usar com essa profusão de frutas, folhas e sementes. Temos ingredientes humanos e naturais para formar uma cena de coquetelaria por aqui", diz. | comida |
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] | Para um restaurante que abre as portas às 9h da matina e começa o menu com itens como tapioca, pães e tostadas, a carta de drinques não é exatamente a principal prioridade. Mas a lista de alcoólicos do Camélia Òdòdó, restaurante de Bela Gil, na Vila Madalena, cumpre bem a função de quem quer completar a experiência gastronômica com algum drinque.Dos cerca de 20 coquetéis da carta, o carro-chefe é o Gil Tônica (por R$ 43), batizado em homenagem ao pai, Gilberto Gil, e o preferido dos comensais, famosos ou não, que passam pela casa. A bebida —e Bela— virou vidraça para críticos online após ser servido no coquetel que marcou a posse do presidente Lula, em 1º de janeiro —alguns apontaram que faltava brasilidade a uma bebida que usa como base um destilado de origem inglesa.Mas o gim usado no drinque está bem mais perto do que Londres: o Gil Tônica usa o clássico london dry da Vitória Régia, destilaria nacional (do Paraná) e 100% orgânica. A coloração arroxeada vem da flor de clitória, mas não espere que a bebida seja servida com as pétalas repousando na superfície do copo. O gim já está infusionado e chega à mesa sem o mimo floral.Um toque de brasilidade —ou do estilo de Bela Gil— é perceptível aqui e ali, como no Jambu Mule, versão do Moscow Mule feito com cachaça de jambu (vendida em miniatura no local). O coquetel é servido com uma espessa espuma de coco, com um toque de gengibre, que persiste até o final do drinque —vale quase como a sobremesa. Mais O clássico cosmopolitan leva uma infusão de hibisco com morangos no lugar do suco de cranberry; o negroni é acrescido por gelo de suco de cenoura e laranja; o bloody mary ganha especiarias amazônicas; o manhattan leva baunilha; e o Amazônia Libre, releitura da antiga e cafona Cuba Libre, mantém o rum (Havana), mas substitui o refrigerante Cola e o limão por leite de coco e cupuaçu.Com exceção da sakerinha (R$ 30) e da caipirinha (de R$ 29, com limão, a R$ 33, com outras frutas), todos os drinques custam entre R$ 39 e R$ 43.Como nos outros itens comestíveis, a carta também indica quais coquetéis são veganos e sem glúten (praticamente todos).Para completar o tour alcoólico no restaurante, há cervejas da Panc Beer, como a lager e a leve session IPA —com lírio-do-brejo e camélia; e a witbier da Praya. Cervejas nacionais, para evitar polêmica. Mais | comida |
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] | Pouco depois do pôr do sol, em uma noite de sábado em dezembro, Megan Horton se acomodou no bar do Nubeluz, um "lounge" no 50º e último andar do mais novo hotel Ritz Carlton da cidade de Nova York, para saborear uma bebida.Ela tinha chegado à cidade vinda de San Francisco, onde trabalha na área de serviços ao cliente da Apple, e estava disposta a esbanjar.Contemplando o horizonte da cidade ao seu redor, ela assistiu enquanto o barman preparava um emerald coin, uma bebida que leva mel, capim-limão, limão e aipo, e o serviu em uma taça.Ela experimentou a bebida, em companhia de uma amiga e de outros clientes elegantes do bar, e sorriu, apreciando o ambiente.A única coisa diferente é que seu coquetel não tinha álcool algum.Horton, 43, parou de beber regularmente, nos últimos meses, principalmente porque ela não sente mais vontade de consumir álcool. "Sempre gostei de festa, por muitos anos, mas agora não sinto vontade de beber", ela disse. "Algo mudou no meu cérebro".Quando ela visitou a cidade de Nova York em uma viagem de final de semana com um grupo de amigas, no mês passado, planejava pedir seltzers, nas noites em que elas saíssem para curtir a cidade. "Adoro o ambiente e consigo me divertir sem beber", disse Horton. Mas ela não demorou a perceber que a maioria dos estabelecimentos, incluindo os bares mais populares da cidade, tinha uma lista sofisticada e abrangente de coquetéis sem álcool.Na noite anterior, no Oscar Wilde, um bar excêntrico com tema vitoriano, na rua 27 Oeste, ela pediu um drinque que era uma mistura de sucos de frutas.Horton nem se incomodou por os "mocktails" [coquetéis sem álcool] do Nubeluz custarem US$ 20, só alguns dólares a menos do que as bebidas com álcool. "Foi tão divertido que eu pudesse pedir um coquetel fofo junto com minha amiga", ela disse. "Além disso, pago o que for para me sentir feliz por não estar de ressaca no dia seguinte".Em Nova York, moradores e turistas estão curtindo coquetéis elaborados e sem álcool. Muito diferentes dos "mocktails" usuais, eles são imaginados por barmen profissionais, criados com ingredientes de primeira linha, entre os quais destilados livres de álcool, e apresentados em copos elegantes e bem guarnecidos.Receba no seu email um guia com a programação cultural da capital paulista; aberta para não assinantes.Carregando..."Não é só um barman misturando suco de cranberry e acrescentando ginger ale e dizendo que aquilo é um coquetel chique", disse Chelsea DeMark, que cria drinques para bares, entre os quais o do hotel Thompson Central Park. O hotel, inaugurado há cerca de um ano, serve uma bebida chamada Bee’s Knees with a Twist, que custa US$ 19 e inclui gim sem álcool, limão e mel (coquetéis com álcool variam de US$ 21 a US$ 28).A olho nu, esses coquetéis sem álcool são indistinguíveis de bebidas que deixam o consumidor embriagado.No Nubeluz, inaugurado em setembro, Miguel Lancha, que lidera o programa de coquetéis da casa, disse que diversos fregueses pediram inadvertidamente bebidas sem álcool que fazem parte do cardápio. "Eu diria que, quando descobrem que a bebida não tem álcool, em geral ficam agradavelmente surpresos", ele disse, rindo.Alguns clientes que não bebem ficam muito felizes por essas opções estarem disponíveis, já que isso permite que continuem a desfrutar da experiência de ir a um bar de primeira linha. Outros, no entanto, dizem que os coquetéis não têm gosto bom, não são saudáveis o suficiente ou simplesmente não valem os preços altos.Ainda assim, os "mocktails" continuam a vender bem.No Thompson Central Park, DeMark disse que a proporção é de um "mocktail" para cada cinco coquetéis com álcool."Nossos coquetéis sem álcool agora representam quase 5% de nossas vendas", disse Tony Mosca, diretor de comida e bebida no Carlyle, famoso hotel no Upper East Side nova-iorquino. "Isso mostra que existe um mercado para eles"."Também vemos pessoas que vêm para tomar uma bebida alcoólica, mas elas às vezes podem tomar uma segunda bebida, essa talvez sem álcool", ele acrescentou.O Bemelmans Bar, piano bar do Carlyle, oferece quatro opções de coquetel não alcoólico, incluindo o Pepito "The Bad Hat", com tequila sem álcool, suco de limão, xarope de laranja e água gasosa, que custa US$ 26. Mais quatro serão adicionados ao longo do ano, de acordo com Mosca.Os especialistas em coquetéis dizem que agora são capazes de oferecer mais coquetéis não alcoólicos porque contam com novos ingredientes."Porque não existiam bebidas destiladas sem álcool, os coquetéis sem álcool eram só suco e água tônica", disse Lancha. "Agora, os ingredientes disponíveis para fazer as bebidas são muito modernos e não param de melhorar".Um exemplo é a Ritual Zero Proof, uma empresa que produz bebidas destiladas sem álcool para uso em coquetéis, e faz alternativas para o uísque, gin, tequila e rum. A Mullip é outra empresa que faz bebidas destiladas não alcoólicas com uma variedade de perfis de sabor, muitos dos quais combinam com os tipos tradicionais de bebidas alcoólicas. (Também existem muitas marcas que produzem vinhos e cervejas não alcoólicos.)Uma das razões para que os coquetéis não alcoólicos tenham preços tão altos é que os ingredientes também são caros. As bebidas não alcoólicas chegam a preços de cerca de US$ 40 por garrafa. "A destilação é um processo laborioso, como o de uma bebida alcoólica", disse DeMark. "As bebidas básicas nos custam um bom dinheiro, e muitas vezes é preciso usar mais delas do que você usa o álcool comum, para alcançar os mesmos resultados, porque o sabor não é tão forte".Alguns clientes percebem a diferença.Quando Sandie Gong, 33, que trabalha para uma empresa de tecnologia e mora no bairro de Williamsburg, Brooklyn, engravidou, no ano passado, ela pediu coquetéis sem álcool em cinco bares diferentes de Brooklyn e Manhattan. "Lembro-me de que um dos primeiros era um spritz Aperol, mas parecia ser feito inteiramente de açúcar", ela disse. Mais Gong não se limitou a experimentar coquetéis. "Comprei uma garrafa de vinho tinto não alcoólico por US$ 25 dólares, e o sabor era o de uma bebida que fica chocha por estar aberta há muito tempo", ela disse."Adoro o sabor do álcool, e essas bebidas não têm sabor algum", ela disse. "Só quero que eles criem um álcool sintético com sabor de álcool".De fato, os especialistas dizem que um dos desafios dos coquetéis não alcoólicos (e outra razão pela qual o preço é tão elevado) está em que bebidas destiladas com teor alcoólico zero podem ser ingredientes mais difíceis com que trabalhar. Também são novas, e por isso não houve muito tempo para aprender. "Pense em como a história do uísque é longa", disse Lancha."Por mais que você sacuda um gim, o sabor sempre vai ser de gim, mas quando você faz o mesmo com uma bebida não alcoólica, ela pode perder todo o sabor", disse DeMark. "Tentamos fazer um vermute não alcoólico com uma mistura de toranja e ingredientes herbáceos, e acrescentamos um toque de vinagre. É complicado, e o resultado não era sempre o mesmo".Outra queixa de clientes é que beber coquetéis não alcoólicos ainda parece pouco saudável."A maioria dos coquetéis em restaurantes são como bebidas para crianças, cheias de açúcar", disse Lisa Morse, 55, psicóloga clínica em Nova York.Ela tenta evitar álcool porque a bebida lhe dá dores de cabeça e prejudica seu sono. Morse experimentou muitas misturas sem álcool em bares e restaurantes —"gosto da experiência de tomar um coquetel sem os efeitos negativos de saúde que vêm com o álcool", ela disse— mas não se sentiu bem com aquilo que colocou no corpo.Em vez disso, ela começou a fazer coquetéis em casa misturando seltzer com Ghia, um aperitivo sem álcool e com baixo teor de açúcar (uma garrafa custa cerca de US$ 40). "Se recebemos pessoas para coquetéis ou um jantar, é divertido tomar uma bebida e compartilhar da experiência", ela disse. | comida |
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] | Michelle Williams ou Cate Blanchett? "Os Fabelmans" ou "Tár"? "A Casa do Dragão" ou "Ruptura"? Os vencedores do 80º Globo de Ouro serão conhecidos apenas após a abertura dos envelopes na noite de terça (10). Mas já é possível saber o que eles estarão comendo na cerimônia, que acontece mais uma vez no Beverly Hilton, em Los Angeles.Ao contrário de outras premiações, o Globo de Ouro sempre se destacou por servir um jantar em meio à cerimônia, com bebidas à vontade, o que às vezes pode contribuir para discursos, digamos, mais informais —é famosa a performance de Ricky Gervais sempre com um copo de cerveja à tiracolo."Estaremos usando uma variedade de ingredientes da estação, altamente sustentáveis e deliciosos", comentou Matthew Morgan, principal chef do hotel.Para este ano, astros e estrelas de Hollywood poderão degustar uma salada de grapefruit, com mix de ervas e chicória, iogurte de coco, vinagrete de grapefruit caramelizada e molho pesto.Em seguida, será servido um salmão islandês com purê de aipo com aroma cítrico, mel, pequenas cebolas e rabanete —há uma opção vegana, com risoto de abóbora com couve-de-Bruxelas, sementes de romã e tomilho crocante. Mais Para a sobremesa, a sugestão é o Limoncello Dome, um creme de limão-siciliano com geleia de framboesa e cramble de pistache."Ao desenvolver o menu, nós celebramos os sabores e a cultura das regiões gastronômicas", completou o chef. O menu apresenta ingredientes do sul da Califórnia ao lado de salmão islandês fresco e criado em fazendas. De acordo com a organização, qualquer sobra de alimentos da festa será doada para a Hollywood Food Coalition.A Moët & Chandon, que historicamente faz parceria com o evento, separou duas versões de espumante: uma Imperial Rosé e a Grand Vintage, ano 2012 —que é possível comprar por aqui por cerca de R$ 700, a garrafa com 750 ml.Para arrematar, pequenas guloseimas da Timothy Maguire Chocolates, da Carolina do Norte. Assim, ninguém fica muito chateado com a derrota.O Globo de Ouro será transmitido pela rede americana NBC e não terá exibição em nenhum canal do Brasil. | comida |
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] | O Noma, restaurante de Copenhague que esteve diversas vezes no topo da lista dos melhores do mundo, vai fechar as portas depois de duas décadas. Com suas três estrelas Michelin, a casa explora ingredientes locais e o mundo natural, servindo atualmente coração de rena grelhado sobre uma cama de pinho.René Redzepi, tido como o chefe mais influente de sua geração e criador do Noma, disse ao The New York Times que o restaurante não terá mais serviço regular a partir do final de 2024. Em seu tempo integral, ele será um laboratório de comida, onde novos pratos e produtos serão criados para a loja virtual do Noma. Mais Desde de sua abertura, o restaurante procura sempre inovar, com equipes em busca de novas receitas, outras especializadas em fermentação, além de terem pesquisadores, jardineiros e coletores.Toda esse jornada levou o Noma a ser considerado o melhor do mundo pela renomada lista 50 Best em 2010, 2011, 2012 e 2014.Ainda que o restaurante continue operando em outros termos, a notícia não agrada aos fãs de gastronomia, que chegam a pagar U$ 500 –um pouco mais de R$ 2.600 na cotação atual– por pessoas pelo menu de degustação com vários pratos. | comida |
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] | Se 2022 ficou marcado pela invasão da burrata, pelos drinques sem álcool e pela consolidação das "dark kitchens", aquelas cozinhas industriais que são voltadas apenas ao delivery, o que o estômago pode esperar para o ano que acabou de começar?Relatórios de tendências, publicações especializadas e até pesquisas do Google trazem as suas apostas, entre elas um retorno triunfal da experiência de comer fora de casa. Análises como essas não deixam de ser um exercício de futurologia contaminado por lobbies diversos, e o que vira moda lá fora nem sempre chega à mesa do brasileiro. Ainda assim dá para cogitar algumas possibilidades. O sociólogo Dario Caldas, fundador do Observatório de Tendências, não tem dúvidas: 2023 vai ser o ano dos fungos. "Eles estão por toda a parte, na moda, na indústria. E na alimentação, detectamos que cresce o interesse por eles como alimento funcional." Os cogumelos também dão a cara no relatório de tendências elaborado pela AF&Co e pela Carbonate, duas empresas americanas de estratégia voltadas ao turismo e à gastronomia. O documento aponta que agora vai ser a vez do maitake, variedade japonesa de fungo que pode ser tostada ou frita, e consumida como uma alternativa às carnes. Ingredientes que oferecem benefício extra à saúde, como alimentos fermentados —caso do kimchi e de picles—, estão em alta, diz Rosa Moraes, embaixadora de hospitalidade e gastronomia da Ânima Educação. Nesta seara, o que se destaca é o uso de algas, ela acrescenta.Receba no seu email uma seleção semanal com o que de mais importante aconteceu no mundo; aberta para não assinantes.Carregando... Ela menciona a presença do ingrediente no Ceto, restaurante na Riviera Francesa com menu assinado por Mauro Colagreco —argentino à frente também do Mirazur, que encabeça a lista do 50 Best de 2019. "Uma boa parte do cardápio tem pratos com algas, que podem ter diferentes tipos e cores. Fico imaginando o potencial que há no Brasil", diz. Entre as receitas, está um zabaione (espécie de creme) feito com a matéria-prima. É algo que vai na mesma direção do que prevê o jornal americano The New York Times, para quem 2023 vai ter gosto de mar, com algas e ouriços chegando às gôndolas. Outras apostas? A volta dos "salgadinhos nostálgicos". "Sabe quando você vai a um coquetel e servem aperitivos esquisitos, mas você só quer quibe, risoles?", indaga Caldas. "Pois bem, vai haver um esquema misto, com mais salgadinhos para equilibrar." Fora isso, o sociólogo ainda prevê um declínio das chamadas carnes vegetais. "As pessoas estão questionando se elas realmente indicam mais saúde ou se estão mais para alimentos ultraprocessados." Essa busca por conhecer mais a origem do que se consome também é o palpite da chef Janaina Rueda, d’A Casa do Porco e do Bar da Dona Onça, em São Paulo. Mais "Vai haver uma valorização de alimentos mais limpos e mais justos", diz. "As pessoas querem saber mais de onde vem a comida e se preocupam com a forma como ela é feita, se vem de produtores locais." E a picanha? O nobre corte bovino foi parar até na última disputa eleitoral, com o recém-empossado presidente Lula dizendo que ela voltaria com força ao churrasco do fim de semana. A julgar pela tendência no consumo de carne vermelha, contudo, isso talvez não seja bem assim.É que, se em 2006, ainda no primeiro dos governos do PT, o brasileiro consumia uma média de 43 quilos de carne por ano, em 2022 esse número registrou o seu menor valor histórico: 24 quilos. "A resposta é o preço", diz a economista Carla Beni, professora dos cursos de MBA da FGV, argumentando que a inflação média dos últimos quatro anos foi de 28%, enquanto que a da carne bovina foi de 78%."Então, de cara eu já digo que em 2023 nós iremos comer mais carne suína, que aumentou bem menos." Moraes, da Ânima Educação, crê num desenvolvimento da charcutaria nacional, com receitas artesanais de salame, copa, bresaola e linguiças marcando presença. Dentro desse campo, a charcutaria do mar merece atenção, diz a especialista em hospitalidade. Como exemplo, está a linguiça artesanal de peixe produzida no Ocyá, restaurante em uma ilha na Barra da Tijuca, no Rio aberto em janeiro do ano passado. A economia também deve moldar outros padrões de consumo, na opinião de Caldas, do Observatório de Sinais. Segundo ele, idas a restaurantes podem ficar restritas a poucos, e os aplicativos de entrega continuarão com força total, mas os consumidores devem passar a preferir buscar comida em vez de pagar o preço da entrega. "O esquema de retirada está se tornando mais forte, porque o preço do frete vai pesar", diz. É algo que pode ficar ainda mais forte diante de uma eventual falência da empresa que faz a intermediação entre entregadores e a plataforma iFood, líder no segmento. É o que teme a Abrasel, a associação que reúne bares e restaurantes, segundo antecipado pela coluna Painel S.A., da Folha. Isso causaria toda uma remodelação desse negócio. "O fato é que os apps modernizaram serviços que estavam nas mãos de empresas muito tradicionais", diz Vagner Bessa, gerente de indicadores econômicos da Fundação Seade. "Foi uma inovação que pegou e que só tende a ficar mais forte com trabalho híbrido e ensino a distância."Carla Beni, economista da FGV, crê que os restaurantes verão um afluxo, sobretudo em São Paulo. "Com o fim da pandemia, houve uma demanda reprimida. E o restaurante é a praia do paulistano." O New York Times também aposta nessa mesma demanda reprimida. Bares e restaurantes vão investir no conjunto da experiência, inclusive com atrações musicais, no que seria uma evolução do piano bar. Se o assunto é bar, aliás, os brasileiros podem esperar vinhos com menos álcool, que se afastam da marca de 14% de teor, segundo Paulo Brammer, diretor da escola Eno Cultura, em São Paulo. É porque hoje há maior preocupação com a saúde e porque isso se alinha com as preferências da geração Z, menos afeita ao consumo alcoólico. "São vinhos que contribuem para que você não se sinta mal no dia seguinte." Segundo ele, o vinho tinto ainda é muito forte no país, mas uma mudança ganha força. "Não estou dizendo que 2023 vai ser o ano do vinho branco, mas é uma categoria que cresce", diz. Com bons representantes leves e frescos, a categoria vai de encontro ao clima quente no país.Gosto de mar Algas e ouriços estão em alta e devem dar as caras em gôndolas de supermercados e pratos de restaurantesBrotando por aí Cogumelos ficarão ainda mais na mira, e a variedade da moda pode ser o maitakeDe bandeja Coxinha, quibes e risoles podem voltar com força aos coquetéisMenos ressaca Vinhos com menor teor alcoólico estão em alta no Brasil, e o vinho branco pode conquistar território no paísComida rastreada Clientes vão se preocupar ainda mais com a origem daquilo que comem e se ela vem de produtores locais Mais | comida |
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] | Atire a primeira semente de romã quem nunca fez uma mandinga para garantir sorte e prosperidade no Ano-Novo. Da roupa branca às sete ondas, são muitas as superstições que a gente ama reproduzir nessa época —e boa parte delas, ainda bem, está à mesa.Comer carne de ave, que cisca para trás, é atraso de vida na certa. Melhor porco ou peixe, que se movimentam para frente e inspiram progresso. Lentilha tem formato de moeda e traz fortuna. Comer 12 uvas é garantia de fartura ao longo de todo o calendário.Base científica? Não carece. O assunto aqui é pura questão de fé e não depende de credo, nível de escolaridade ou poder aquisitivo. A espécie humana sempre teve uma quedinha pelo sobrenatural, o que tem sua razão de ser, como explica o psicólogo norte-americano Stuart Vyse.Especialista nesses comportamentos nada racionais e autor de vários livros sobre o tema, Vyse explica que os rituais mágicos são o jeito que encontramos para lidar com o lado imprevisível da vida. Eles dão uma certa sensação de controle, por mais que, racionalmente, saibamos que não fazem lá muito sentido."Nossa compreensão do mundo natural nos diz que esses sinais e gestos não podem afetar os eventos aos quais são direcionados, mas a superstição é extremamente comum, se não universal", diz o autor em "Believing In Magic – The Psychology of Superstition (Acreditando Em Magia – A Psicologia da Superstição, sem edição no Brasil), publicado pela Oxford University, em 1997.Herdamos nossas superstições de diferentes culturas. Da Itália vem a crença de que lentilhas chamam abundância, enquanto a simbologia das sementes de romã tem origem nos rituais do Rosh Hashaná, o Ano-Novo judaico. Mais São vários os alimentos que compõem essa refeição festiva, cada um com seu significado. Só que os judeus não as encaram como superstições, já que a Torá condena esse tipo de comportamento —a ideia é que, ao ingerir tais alimentos, possamos refletir sobre nossos propósitos para o novo ciclo e direcionar o pensamento de forma positiva.Do Rosh Hashaná tomamos emprestado o ritual de ingerir sementes de romã. "Uma romã tem mais de 600 sementes, número parecido com o de mandamentos, que são 613. No ritual, recitamos ‘que nossos méritos sejam tão numerosos quanto as sementes dessa romã’", explica Breno Lerner, pesquisador de história da gastronomia judaica.Também fazem parte da refeição judaica o peixe, que nunca fecha os olhos, nada para a frente e se multiplica com facilidade, e o mel, que simboliza um Ano-Novo doce e de perdão coletivo."Na segunda noite, comemos uma fruta nova, que ainda não comemos na estação. Esse costume deu origem à roupa nova, que derivou até para a roupa íntima", emenda Lerner.Está, portanto, aberta a temporada das mandingas, simpatias e feitiços alimentares. Para quem crê ou não em bruxas, 2023 está logo ali e não custa dar uma forcinha para a sorte —melhor ainda se for com receitas de chef e drinque assinado.Renato Carioni, chef do restaurante Così"Minha mãe sempre foi muito supersticiosa com relação às comidas do Réveillon. Comer ave era proibido. A carne era sempre suína, acompanhada por lentilhas. Foi para ela que criei essa receita. No brinde, à meia-noite, colocamos 12 sementes de romã na taça de espumante, uma para cada mês do ano", lembra o chef.Rendimento: 4 porçõesINGREDIENTES PARA A SALADA400 g de lentilha cozida½ cebola-roxa picadinha2 tomates sem pele e sem sementes picados½ xícara de salsinha picada½ xícara de cebolinha verde picadaSal e pimenta-do-reino a gostoINGREDIENTES PARA O VINAGRETE1 xícara de azeiteSuco e raspas de 1 limão-sicilianoSuco de 1 limão cravo ou tahitiSementes e suco de 1 romã grande, bem maduraINGREDIENTES PARA O CRUDO300 g de filés de robalo fatiados finamenteFlor de sal a gostoFlores comestíveis para decorarPREPAROCarole Crema, confeiteira"Não acredito em bruxas, mas elas existem... Sempre tem vela acesa em casa e, no fim do ano, sigo várias superstições: não como aves e faço as simpatias das romãs e da lentilha, que chamam dinheiro e, para mim, simbolizam renovação, prosperidade e renascimento", diz Crema.Rendimento: 12 porçõesINGREDIENTES3 cebolas brancas3 folhas de louro8 cravos3 dentes de alho¼ de maço de tomilho4 talos de alho-poró picados grosseiramente2,5 kg de polvo inteiro350 ml de vinho branco seco3,5 litros de água250 g de bacon em cubinhos4 cebolas-roxas em cubinhos1 kg de lentilha400 g de tomates-cereja cortados ao meioSal e pimenta-do-reino a gostoSuco e raspas de 1 limão-siciliano20 ml de azeite½ maço de manjericãoPREPARODaniel Park, chef do restaurante Komah"O tteokguk é uma espécie de sopa, preparada com massa de arroz, algum tipo de caldo, mandu [o guioza coreano] e guarnições como nori e cebolinha. O prato simboliza prosperidade e esperança, por isso é o que todos os coreanos comem em família no dia 1º de janeiro", explica o chef.Rendimento: 4 porçõesINGREDIENTES3 ovos1 colher (chá) de leiteSal a gosto2 litros de caldo de carne400 g de massa de arroz12 mandu (à venda em lojas de produtos coreanos)20 g de alga nori picada50 g de cebolinha picadaPimenta dedo-de-moça a gosto picadaPREPAROClarice Reichstul, chef do restaurante Shoshana Delishop e da empresa de eventos Paca Polaca"No dia 31 de dezembro, repito as tradições do Ano Novo judaico. A comida deve ser doce, para que o ano não seja amargo, e sempre faço o challah, pão redondo trançado, cujo formato marca o ciclo da vida – por não ter começo nem fim, ele simboliza continuidade", ensina a chef.INGREDIENTES2 colheres (sopa) de fermento biológico seco500 ml de água morna1 colher (chá) de açúcar5 ovos½ xícara de açúcar1 colher (sopa) de sal½ xícara de óleo vegetal1,3 kg de farinha de trigo (9 ¼ xícaras)100 g de passas30 g de gergelimPREPAROChristopher Carijó, chefe do bar do restaurante Preto Cozinha"Em casa, costumo soprar canela todo primeiro dia do mês, para renovar energias e atrair prosperidade. Coloco um punhado na palma da mão e sopro, virado para frente da porta de entrada. No primeiro dia do ano não é diferente, e esse ritual ganha ainda mais importância. Inspirado nele, criei um drinque defumado com canela, o Velho Costume, releitura do Old Fashioned, para tomar depois da simpatia", explica Carijó.INGREDIENTES70 ml de cachaça amburana10 ml de xarope de folhas de louro (ferva 100 ml de água com 100 g de açúcar, desligue o fogo, adicione 7 folhas de louro e espere esfriar)7 dashs de angostura1 pau de canela para defumarCasca de laranja, sem a parte branca, para finalizarPREPARO | comida |
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] | O peru, veja só, é mexicano. Foi no século 16 que os colonizadores espanhóis conheceram aquela ave estranha e a levaram para a Europa, onde fez sucesso entre a elite justamente por ser grande, exótica e fazer bonito à mesa dos banquetes. De lá, conquistou o mundo.Como ganha peso com facilidade, o peru virou símbolo de prosperidade no Dia de Ação de Graças dos norte-americanos, comemorado no fim de novembro. Mas foram os portugueses que o trouxeram para o nosso Natal.Aqui, o peru reinou até 1982, quando a Perdigão lançou o chester —uma ave aprimorada geneticamente para ter o peito turbinado. Por não ser tão grande, ela se encaixou perfeitamente nos menus de famílias menos numerosas, e muitas marcas concorrentes vieram na carona.Independente da espécie da penosa, as aves assadas são as estrelas do Natal brasileiro —pode ser peru, a tal ave festiva, um simples franguinho ou uma boa galinha caipira bem temperada, opção preferida da chef Janaína Rueda, do restaurante A Casa do Porco e do Bar da Dona Onça.Aqui não se pretende enganar ninguém: servir uma ave suculenta, bem temperada e douradinha requer um tantinho de dedicação, como ensinam os chefs de cozinha ouvidos nesta reportagem. A parte boa é que, para quem gosta de cozinhar, a festa começa bem antes."Essas comidas de ritual, que demandam preparo antecipado, são muito bacanas. Se a casa é pequena e o forno não comporta um peru, tudo bem, essas novas opções resolvem bem a questão", opina a chef Carla Pernambuco, do restaurante Carlota.Do descongelamento à forma de servir, passando pelos temperos e até pelas sugestões para aproveitar as sobras no dia seguinte, todas as dicas de um Natal gostoso e feliz estão aqui.1. Calcule a quantidade contando com uma sobraO cálculo depende do restante do cardápio, como explica o chef Alain Poletto, do Bistrot de Paris. "Se a ave é o prato principal, com poucos acompanhamentos, sugiro até 400 gramas por pessoa. Uma ave de quatro quilos é ideal para dez pessoas."Se outros pratos principais estão previstos para a ceia, como bacalhau ou presunto tender, basta reduzir a proporção de cada um, para que a soma das proteínas chegue a 400 gramas por pessoa.2. Descongele da forma corretaAves natalinas são vendidas congeladas. O degelo seguro, sem risco de contaminação, deve ser feito na geladeira por, pelo menos, 24 horas.A chef Maddalena Stasi, do restaurante Mercearia do Conde, lembra que o tempo pode ser até maior, 48 horas, no caso de aves mais pesadas.Dica aos marinheiros de primeira viagem: aves natalinas vêm com os miúdos embalados em saquinho plástico escondido dentro da carcaça. É preciso removê-lo antes de passar à próxima etapa.3. Invista no temperoA marinada líquida, onde a ave deve ficar mergulhada por até 24 horas, dentro da geladeira, é praticamente uma unanimidade entre os chefs —dessa forma, argumentam, os temperos alcançam todos os cantinhos e a carne se mantém suculenta depois de assada.Nesse quesito, cada um tem sua receita. Morena Leite, chef do restaurante Capim Santo, tropicaliza o assado fazendo uma marinada com abacaxi. A fruta é batida no liquidificador com alho, cebola, cenoura, salsão, gengibre, sal, salsinha, pimenta-do-reino, vinho branco e azeite.Maddalena Stasi troca o sal pelo shoyu, ingrediente que mistura com vinho branco, alho, salsão, alho-poró, tomilho, alecrim e sálvia. "Quando a ave já vem temperada, lavo antes para remover o excesso desse tempero, porque acho o sabor artificial", explica. Mais Para que a ave absorva os temperos por igual, a dica de Carla Pernambuco é virá-la várias vezes dentro da marinada, além de massageá-la a cada virada.Já a galinha caipira da chef Janaína Rueda fica mergulhada em salmoura com seis litros de água, um quilo de sal, grãos de pimenta-do-reino, pimenta calabresa, um galho de tomilho e seis rodelas de laranja. Bastam quatro horas, ela garante, já que a galinha é bem menor do que o peru.A chef Gabriela Barretto, do restaurante Chou, também gosta das aves menores, orgânicas de preferência, mas não faz coro em relação à marinada —prefere temperos secos.Depois de descolar a pele do peito, Gabriela aplica uma mistura de sal grosso, batido no liquidificador com pimenta-do-reino, alecrim fresco e raspas de limão."Coloco por baixo da pele, diretamente sobre a carne, concentrando uma quantidade maior no peito, e deixo na geladeira, destampada, por 24 horas", ensina. Para que a ave não fique em contato com os líquidos que se desprendem durante o processo, a chef sugere apoiá-la em uma grade.4. Prepare um recheio úmido e saborosoA farofa de miúdos é um clássico, mas não obrigatória. Quem não abre mão da farinha de mandioca pode seguir o conselho de Morena Leite e preparar uma farofa crocante e adocicada, à base de diferentes castanhas e frutas. Ou fazer como Carla Pernambuco, que enriquece a farofa com presunto cru, banana e mel.Se a ideia é inovar para valer, a farinha pode sair de cena para dar lugar a outros recheios. Chef do Nelita, que estreou este ano no 50 Best América Latina no 39º lugar, Tássia Magalhães faz um refogado úmido, que pode ser de lentilhas ou de castanhas com ameixas. "As oleaginosas têm bastante gordura e ajudam a manter a ave suculenta", ensina.Janaína Rueda sugere, ainda, rechear a ave com patê de fígado de frango, com cuscuz ou com verduras. "Mas eu gosto mesmo é de usar cebolas brancas pequenas como recheio", confessa.5. Prepare o assado para o fornoDepois de todo aquele tempo mergulhada nos temperos, a ave está quase pronta para ser assada. Agora é hora de colocá-la no centro de uma assadeira funda, já livre da marinada, e besuntá-la com manteiga, garantindo que a pele fique bem dourada, sem rachar."É importante amarrar as pontas dos ossos das coxas com barbante de algodão, para que não se soltem durante o cozimento. Assim, a apresentação fica mais bonita", avisa Oghan Teixeira, sócio da Ghee Banqueteria.Os chefs são unânimes ao afirmar que regar a ave enquanto está assando é fundamental. A banqueteira Rita Atrib, do Buffet Petit Comité, usa a própria marinada para regar o assado, a intervalos de 30 minutos.Já Carla Pernambuco faz diferente. "Derreto manteiga e misturo com suco de laranja para ir regando", diz.6. Controle a temperatura do fornoDe acordo com Oghan Teixeira, quem tem forno com controle preciso de temperatura pode abrir mão do papel-alumínio para envolver a ave. "Basta assar a 130ºC, por meia hora, e depois aumentar para 180ºC, até que esteja dourada, abrindo a cada 20 minutos para regar."Como a maioria dos fornos domésticos não é tão precisa e sequer chega a uma temperatura tão baixa, a solução é mesmo apelar para o papel-alumínio. "Começo com forno preaquecido a 180ºC, por 1h a 1h30, dependendo do tamanho da ave. Depois retiro, rego e mantenho o forno em 200ºC, até dourar bem", diz Tássia Magalhães.A cobertura de papel-alumínio tem sua ciência, como explica Rita Atrib. "É fundamental fechar todos os lados da assadeira ou refratário, sem deixar frestas, para manter a umidade. A parte mais brilhante fica em contato com o alimento, para não grudar."Como saber se está pronto? "Furo a coxa com um garfo. Se o líquido sair sem cor, a ave está assada. Se sair avermelhado, precisa cozinhar por mais tempo", ensina Maddalena Stasi.7. Coordene o tempo de preparo com o horário do jantarOs chefs recomendam deixar a ave prontinha (até a etapa 5) com antecedência, para levá-la ao forno entre 2h30 e 3h antes da refeição.Como o processo de cocção requer atenção constante, em função das regas periódicas, o truque da chef Tássia Magalhães é o seguinte: "Mais cedo, asso a etapa inicial, com papel-alumínio, e desligo o forno. Pouco antes do jantar, eu volto com a ave para o forno preaquecido, sem o alumínio, só para aquecer e dourar." Mais 8. Escolha bem os acompanhamentosDentro do forno, uma crosta terá se formado no fundo da assadeira durante o cozimento —um ingrediente precioso que dá origem ao molho, através do processo que, na cozinha, se chama deglacear."Deglaceado com vinho branco. Esse caldo é o que nós, franceses, chamamos jus do assado. É a melhor opção de molho, porque não altera o sabor da ave", defende Alain Poletto.Nos acompanhamentos, misturar sabores doces e salgados é uma tradição natalina. Além dos clássicos —batatinhas assadas, arroz e farofa—, têm lugar à mesa castanhas portuguesas, frutas frescas ou assadas, frutas secas, cuscuz marroquino e uma boa salada, como pede nosso verão."Gosto de oferecer salada de grãos e farofa de gengibre", diz Maddalena Stasi.9. Capriche na forma de servirArrumar a ave já fatiada, na travessa, é técnica para quem tem habilidade e treino e dispõe de faca elétrica. Caso contrário, melhor assumir o tom caseiro e servi-la inteira, em todo o seu esplendor."Acho bonito o ritual de fatiar o peru na frente dos convidados. O certo é retirar as coxas primeiro, depois ir cortando os pedaços do peito", diz Poletto.Parte dos acompanhamentos pode ser arrumada ao redor da ave, na mesma travessa, finalizada com um buquê de ervas frescas —sugestão de Carla Pernambuco. O molho vai à parte.10. Não desperdice as sobras no dia seguinteChef do Zena Caffè, Carlos Bertolazzi tem uma tradição em família: a sobra do peru da ceia vira salada no almoço do dia seguinte.Depois de desfiada, a carne é misturada com maionese, suco de limão siciliano, uvas sem caroços cortadas ao meio, salsão fatiado fininho e um tiquinho de pimenta dedo-de-moça picada.Carla Pernambuco prefere transformar as sobras em recheio do club sandwich, o famoso sanduíche de três andares feito com pão de forma (ou de miga) sem casca, alface, tomate e maionese. | comida |
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] | No miolo de Pinheiros, a rua Ferreira de Araújo se tornou um repentino epicentro gastronômico. A cada semana, um novo restaurante surge no panorama do paulistano faminto que passa pela via sempre abarrotada.É ali, onde há bares modernos e casas especializadas em trufas, padarias tradicionais e cafeterias hipsters, que a chef Tássia Magalhães e seu marido e sócio, Daniel Steinle, decidiram abrir o Nelita, restaurante que não se limita a uma só definição. A casa acaba de estrear na lista 50 Best America Latina na posição de número 39. Inaugurada há quase dois anos, a casa caiu nas graças dos paulistanos por unir muitos elementos: clima extrovertido, mas profissional; comida elaborada, porém afetiva; serviço atencioso e amigável, sem ser "amigão".A fachada em verde Tiffany com tijolos aparentes indica um restaurante cosmopolita, que poderia estar em qualquer capital do mundo (e que cairia muito bem como um bistrô parisiense, por exemplo).Mas a comida comprova a origem paulista da chef, que nasceu no interior paulista (Guaratinguetá) e fez carreira na capital, principalmente à frente do reconhecido Pomodori, tendo o desafio de substituir Jefferson Rueda quando o chef saiu dali.Ao longo dos anos, Tássia criou seu estilo: foco em cozinha italiana autoral e contemporânea, mas sem fechar os olhos para o que acontece em outras regiões do mundo —passagens por cozinhas nórdicas a ajudaram nesse quesito.Seus pratos são precisos e sutis, com construções de sabores muitas vezes surpreendentes, como no camarão empanado com missô e brodo de acerola (R$ 86). De onde se espera o trivial, a chef surpreende com uma pontinha de ousadia.Mas é na seção de pastas que ela mostra seu domínio: o agnolotti recheado de cabra com molho de limão confit, mel e alho negro (R$ 101) é uma pequena granada que só detona na boca após a primeira garfada. Suave e potente, é prova de que o trabalho de Tássia é cheio de (boas) contradições.Principalmente nos sabores: um dos melhores pratos do menu é o linguine (com massa feita na casa, como todas as outras), com vôngole, lardo e abobrinha defumada (R$ 108). Está tudo ali: umami, iodo, o defumado ligeiro. O lardo ainda dá uma camada extra de textura, um detalhe de quem entende de delicadezas.Há mais: risotos, carnes (um pato com cebola defumada e "sotaque" francês, R$ 167), e uma pequena seção de vegetais, como pedem os cardápios vigentes. Para quem quer ficar só pelas entradas acompanhadas de vinho (muito da carta é composto por rótulos naturais), há bastante com que se divertir.Os aspargos confitados com beurre blanc suave e bottarga feita na casa (R$ 76) ou a levíssima mousse de foie gras com maçã verde e matcha (R$ 86) são preparados com apuro —o último melhor se partilhado, para não enjoar. Mais Com a cozinha aberta, instalada bem no centro (onde somente trabalham mulheres, algo raro na gastronomia), o Nelita tem clima de restaurante do Brooklyn nova-iorquino: decoração industrial chic, um balcão largo de pedra branca e soul jazz soando pelas caixas.Como no menu, que permite experiências distintas (um jantar leve antes do cinema, um encontro de amigos no sábado à noite), os salões seguem a mesma nota: de mesas com sofás intimistas a uma mesona com até 14 lugares na adega da parte superior para grupos.Às terças-feiras, Tássia sai do script e presta homenagem às suas cozinheiras, com um menu exclusivo e mais gastronômico de dez pratos (R$ 310) criado a muitas mãos.Cada uma delas é responsável por uma receita baseada em memórias afetivas, com pratos mais elaborados, como a caixa das bailarinas, servida com quatro bombons (entre mel, milho, beterraba e hibisco).E, no universo do Nelita, "menu degustação" é também mais uma possibilidade. É mais um restaurante dentro do restaurante, uma outra alternativa para uma chef criativa que tem muito a mostrar. | comida |
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] | Em outubro passado, foi lançada nos Estados Unidos, ante grande expectativa, a mais nova biografia do chef e apresentador de TV norte-americano Anthony Bourdain (1956-2018), intitulada "Down and Out In Paradise: The Life of Anthony Bourdain", do jornalista Charles Leerhsen. Com o enorme sucesso de sua última série televisiva ("Parts Unknown", surpreendente recordista de audiência da rede CNN), Bourdain catapultara sua fama crescente ao nível de uma celebridade mundial. E, no auge da fama, aos 61 anos, matou-se no interior da França, onde gravava um episódio de seu programa. Há algo de macabro no livro. Ele é sobre a vida, mas também muito sobre a morte do chef. O autor teve acesso aos últimos movimentos da vida privada de Bourdain, mapeando seu computador e seu celular, franqueados pela sua ex-mulher.Ficamos então sabendo —como realçado pela divulgação que antecedeu o lançamento— de seu ódio pela fama e pelos fãs, seu vício em heroína, seu consumo de esteroides injetáveis, dos sites de prostitutas que visitou pouco antes de sua morte, e no mesmo dia, da última comunicação com sua namorada, a atriz italiana Asia Argento, que lhe diz para deixá-la em paz e cuidar da sua vida. Este namoro vinha sendo bastante tumultuado, assunto para muita manga se o objetivo for enxerir-se na vida pessoal de ambos. Argento, menos ilustre como atriz do que como figura de proa do movimento #MeToo, parece possessiva e sufocante para um apaixonado mas sempre inseguro e torturado Bourdain.Ainda assim, o autor parece forçar a barra ao centrar nesta desventura amorosa a causa do suicídio de Bourdain. Ok, ele estava sofrendo. Mas, ao mesmo tempo, tinha âncoras poderosas para mantê-lo com os pés na terra —como o estupendo sucesso profissional e financeiro, e uma filha que se aproximava da adolescência. Aí a namorada dá um fora, e você se enforca num banheiro de hotel... sei.Milhões de pessoas perdem seus empregos, seus amores, seus filhos, obviamente sofrem, mas daí a se matar vai uma grande distância. É mais provável que a maioria dos que chegam a este extremo sejam impelidos por depressão e sofrimentos psíquicos e químicos, não apenas por um fato específico. Mais Bourdain era uma pessoa perturbada, e o interesse maior do livro está em acompanhar como a trajetória desta figura conturbada não impediu seu sucesso profissional. Para quem não o conheceu de perto, pode ser surpresa que ele fosse antipático, irascível, folgado, grosseiro, o que transparece em vários relatos do livro.Para mim, que estive com ele algumas vezes, nada disto é surpresa. O fato também revelado de que seus livros (e séries) contenham invenções travestidas de realidade, tampouco. Mas daí vem boa parte de sua graça.Afinal, se é tão comum usar mentiras e exageros para enfeitar positivamente a vida dos chefs, no estilo "Chef’s Table", por que não usar o mesmo estratagema para revelar, ainda que dando tons ficcionais, o lado negro da força? Mais Eu sempre disse (sem provas...) que o livro que o lançou ao estrelato (e o tirou de uma carreira apagada como chef), "Kitchen Confidential", lançado em 2000 e que virou best-seller graças a chocantes "revelações" sobre o funcionamento de uma cozinha profissional, era cheio de invenções e exageros.Mas, ainda assim, nunca deixei de deleitar-me e recomendar o livro, escrito com faca afiada e temperos picantes. Aliás, o livro mostra que desde muito jovem Bourdain amava escrever, e, já quando trabalhava como cozinheiro, escrevia histórias policiais. Não sei seus contos de mistério, mas a julgar por seus livros de gastronomia e viagem, é óbvio que ele escrevia muito bem e foi um grande contador de histórias. Além de frasista ferino e rápido no gatilho. Tímido, amargurado, mas também grosseiro e arrogante. Deste coquetel explosivo de emoções Anthony Bourdain conseguiu destilar uma obra que encantou milhões em todo o mundo, e já sobrevive ao seu angustiado criador. | comida |
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] | Era um casamento totalmente improvável. Tipo Cláudia Raia e Alexandre Frota. Como harmonizar pizza com o licoroso e doce vinho do Porto? A versão branca é servida predominantemente como aperitivo, e a tinto, como digestivo.A pergunta acabou rendendo uma competição. A segunda edição do World Stars Pizza & Port Wine, que aconteceu no último dia 16 de novembro, na cidade portuguesa do Porto, teve catorze competidores (todos com festejados currículos) de Alemanha, Argentina, Austrália, Brasil, Colômbia, Espanha, Estados Unidos, França, Itália, Japão, Porto Rico, Portugal, Sérvia e Suécia."Fiz uma grande consulta mundial com amigos e reuni apenas artistas", afirma o chef pizzaiolo Antonio Mezzero, organizador do evento. "O que eu faço é uma verdadeira Copa do Mundo da pizza".Foram três categorias, e a principal delas, a harmonização da pizza (que os portugueses, aliás, pronunciam ‘pisa’) com o vinho do Porto, foi vencida pelo representante brasileiro Jaqueson Dichoff, um dos três únicos que disputaram também a primeira edição, em 2018.Para a harmonização com o vinho do Porto, Jaqueson apostou numa fruta bem brasileira. A pizza ganhadora tinha queijo minas, queijo mogiana com urucum —que lhe dava um aspecto mais alaranjado—, salame picante e um tomate especial, bem doce, plantado por um casal (ele holandês, ela russa), em Andradas, no interior mineiro.Por cima, um leve toque de pesto de coentro e castanha de caju, finalizada com compota de jabuticaba da marca Maria Preta, fabricada em Campinas, e queijo tulha da Fazenda Atalaia, de Amparo, ambas no interior de São Paulo.Também veio na mala um azeite premiado da Fazenda Irarema, de São Sebastião da Grama, a 270 km de São Paulo. "A compota de jabuticaba criou uma ilusão de parecer azeitona e isso surpreendeu o júri", conta Jaqueson. "Em 2018, eu tinha usado geleia de jabuticaba, que era mais doce que a compota."Havia pizzas com coberturas de todos os tipos. Ali Chahrour, representante sueco, usou fatias de carne de rena, enquanto o alemão Tobias Kühnle colocou batatas e maçãs carameladas na cobertura da sua. O italiano Gianni Calaon, sete vezes campeão do mundo, apareceu com uma massa verde e explicou aos jurados que havia a enriquecido com espirulina.Takumi Tachikawa, do Japão, usou caras de bacalhau, que ele comprou ao chegar em Portugal —loucuras que, até então, se pensava que só os donos de rodízio de pizza no Brasil seriam capazes de inventar.Jaqueson largou a publicidade e morou dois anos na Itália para se formar na Scuola Italiana Pizzaioli. Já foi sócio de pizzarias, como a Vituccio, na Vila Ipojuca, em São Paulo, e hoje viaja pelo país dando cursos e consultorias para quem deseja entrar no ramo.Na primeira edição do World Stars, que teve dez pizzaiolos, Jaqueson foi eliminado na primeira fase. Desta vez, ele estudou cada detalhe. "Como sabia que a maioria dos jurados seria italiana, desisti de trazer carne seca", conta. "Achei que estranhariam o sabor." Mais Mezzero reconheceu a ascensão do brasileiro: "Ele veio para ganhar. Foi o único que me pediu o contato dos enólogos antes de entrar no avião".Aqui vale uma explicação de como funciona a competição. Cada pizzaiolo "defende" uma vinícola da região. Em comum acordo, pizzaiolo e enólogo da casa decidem que vinho do Porto e vinho douro serão harmonizados com as pizzas.No sorteio, Jaqueson ficou com a Ramos Pinto, que tem uma longa tradição com o mercado brasileiro. A Ramos Pinto foi fundada em 1880 e, já naquele ano, começou a exportar seu vinho para o Brasil. Em 1889, o vinho do Porto Adriano foi o primeiro vendido já engarrafado para o Brasil. Adriano é o nome do fundador, Adriano Ramos Pinto, que abriu o negócio com apenas 21 anos.No começo, o vinho do Porto era apresentado como um fortificante. Um remédio mesmo. Na categoria douro, o vinho escolhido pela Ramos Pinto foi o Duas Quintas. Ao conversar com o enólogo Thomas Rogerson e com o diretor de exportações Nuno Sampaio Maia, Jaqueson saiu na frente e começou os testes já em São Paulo.Aos poucos, os portuenses começaram a entender que a pizza permite um mundo infinito de combinações e, portanto, a harmonização com vinho do Porto não era algo tão impossível assim.Em 2017, o napolitano Antonio Mezzero resolveu subverter a tradição e, no Dia Internacional do Vinho do Porto, celebrado em 10 de setembro, apresentou duas pizzas com esse objetivo —uma de sotaque português (com muçarela fior di latte, alheira de caça, agrião, queijo de cabra curado do Alentejo e redução de vinho do Porto) e outra de sotaque italiano (com a mesma muçarela, mortadela de Bologna , rúcula, pistache, cogumelo porcini e parmesão).A data está registrada até em uma das paredes de sua pizzaria, inaugurada em 2011, na cidade de Matosinhos, na Grande Porto. As duas pizzas, obrigatoriamente acompanhadas de cálices de vinho do Porto, estão fixas em seu menu desde então. Mais Mezzero chegou em Portugal há 14 anos e se vangloria de ter sido o primeiro a fazer pizza em estilo napolitano no país. "Nasci na Itália e quero morrer em Portugal", diz.Uma fatia de sua família fazia parte do clã Casalesi, um braço da Camorra, a máfia napolitana. O homônimo Antonio Mezzero, primo do pai e apontado como um dos chefões, foi preso por três homicídios —pegou uma pena de 55 anos em 1999 e foi solto em julho passado, depois de cumprir 23 anos.No início dos anos 1990, a guerra entre autoridades e mafiosos amedrontava os italianos. Os pais de Mezzero, Martino e Maria, tinham medo de que os cinco filhos se bandeassem para os lados da máfia também.Por isso, deixaram para trás uma empresa de construção civil e se mudaram para a pequena Waldshut-Tiengen, no sul da Alemanha. Mezzero tinha sete anos. A família teve que recomeçar do zero.Já em Portugal, Mezzero começou trabalhando na pizzaria do irmão, a S. Martino, que hoje tem 21 endereços espalhados pelo país. Até que conseguiu um empréstimo com o cônsul italiano da cidade para abrir sua própria casa, de apenas dez lugares. Três anos depois, Mezzero ampliou o espaço para os atuais quarenta.Tirou o Pizzeria Pulcinella da fachada para colocar seu nome, mostrando que ali a pizza era autoral. Pela massa de fermentação longa, pelos ingredientes e pela sua arte. Virou uma celebridade.Louco por futebol, o torcedor do Napoli conquistou o paladar de boleiros. Os brasileiros Hulk e Alex Telles, que jogaram no time do Porto, eram habitués da casa e foram trazendo os portugueses e os estrangeiros. Várias vezes os clubes fecharam a pizzaria para comemorações de títulos.Hoje, na alta temporada, há quem espere duas horas para conseguir uma mesa. Vende em média cem pizzas por noite, com preços que variam de 15 a 27,50 euros (individual).Para a próxima edição do World Stars Pizza & Port Wine, inicialmente prevista para setembro de 2024, Mezzero planeja trazer dois pizzaiolos de cada país, um para cada tipo de harmonização. Quer abrir espaço também para mulheres."Não dá para entender por que temos tão poucas mulheres pizzaiolas no mundo", lamenta a italiana Simona Lauri, mestre em panificação e pizzas, convidada para ser jurada no Porto. "Veio possivelmente da tradição da panificação, que também era masculina. Mas fazer pizza é um trabalho com sensibilidade, paixão, tudo a ver com as mulheres."O repórter viajou a convite da organização da World Stars Pizza & Port Wine | comida |
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] | "Melhor sobrar do que faltar." Quem nunca ouviu essa frase durante os preparativos de um almoço de domingo? No fim do ano, então, lidar por dias a fio com as sobras de peru e presunto tender é um clássico da família brasileira.Esse hábito de caprichar na quantidade de comida vem de longe e está tão entranhado em nossa cultura alimentar que deu origem a todo um delicioso receituário doméstico, baseado no reaproveitamento de sobras.De quebra, moldou nossa paixão pelos potinhos plásticos para organizá-las na geladeira.Quem tem não gosta de emprestar, e quem toma emprestado reluta em devolver, como canta a dupla sertaneja Victor Gregório e Marco Aurélio em "Devolve as Tupperware da Minha Mãe" (assim mesmo, no feminino, como também é comum falar) —se o relacionamento amoroso terminou, não tem negócio, precisa mandar os potes de volta.Os potinhos plásticos fabricados especialmente para armazenar alimentos na geladeira (embalagens de sorvete ou margarina reaproveitados ficam fora dessa conversa) são uma novidade relativamente recente no Brasil."Antes disso, as pessoas guardavam as sobras em travessas, cobertas por panos sobre o fogão. Se precisassem de refrigeração, iam para a geladeira dentro de um prato fundo, com outro prato por cima servindo de tampa", recorda a culinarista Bettina Orrico, 89, que se tornou responsável pela seção de receitas da revista Claudia em 1973.Tudo mudou a partir de 1976, ano em que a norte-americana Tupperware chegou ao país. Os potes, que já faziam sucesso nos Estados Unidos desde os anos 1940, não eram vendidos em lojas, mas em reuniões vespertinas realizadas por grupos de mulheres.O modelo também foi importado. Qualquer consumidora podia se voluntariar como anfitriã e chamar as amigas para o convescote. Enquanto tomavam café com bolo, elas assistiam às demonstrações conduzidas por uma representante da marca, sempre uma mulher.Michi Kussuhara, 72, fez parte do primeiro time de representantes brasileiro, e lembra como os potes com tampas herméticas causavam estranhamento naquela época."A gente tinha que colocar líquido neles, fechar e chacoalhar, para provar que não vazavam. Oferecíamos bolachas que estavam guardadas por semanas nas caixas, para mostrar que continuavam frescas, mas às vezes uma dizia para a outra: ‘Você acredita? Vai ver ela comprou antes de vir para cá.’"Os recipientes Tupperware acabaram se popularizando tanto que viraram nome genérico para qualquer pote de plástico com tampa. No Youtube, são tema de tutoriais que ensinam como organizá-los nos armários. Potes antigos fora de linha são anunciados como raridades vintage em sites como Enjoei e Ebay.Até os restaurantes aprenderam a tirar partido dessa paixão pelos potinhos. Sócia do Boato, em São Paulo, Maria Carolina Warzée acondiciona os alimentos destinados ao delivery em potes de plástico reutilizáveis, que podem ser incorporados ao acervo doméstico.Ela investe alto, mais de R$ 3 por embalagem, mas garante que vale a pena. "A avaliação dos clientes é muito positiva. Eles elogiam a qualidade das entregas e contam que continuam a usar os potes em casa. Eu mesma tenho vários", confessa.A experiência se repete entre a clientela do grupo Adega Santiago, que também inclui os restaurantes Taberna 474 e Arroz Malandro. Juntas, as seis unidades de São Paulo e Rio de Janeiro realizam 4.000 entregas mensais."Fizemos vários testes de embalagem e escolhemos os potes que melhoram a experiência do delivery. Na época, nem pensamos na questão da reutilização, mas ela acabou ganhando importância. Até nós, da equipe, adotamos em casa", conta Vanessa Vignati, responsável pelo marketing do grupo. Mais A relação do brasileiro com a fartura à mesa pode estar na raiz dessa relação séria e ciumenta que estabelecemos com nosso acervo de potes.Pesquisador da Embrapa, Gustavo Porpino conduziu um estudo sobre desperdício de alimentos em 2014, atualizado em 2018 e 2019, e constatou que os alimentos servidos em abundância, em travessas generosas, são vistos como sinônimo de hospitalidade."Na cultura latina e entre os povos do Oriente Médio e do sudeste asiático, comida sinaliza riqueza, receptividade e bem-querer", resume.Era assim na casa da chef Ana Soares, do pastifício Mesa III. Em Guararapes, interior de São Paulo, a família de origem italiana não regulava a quantidade de alimentos."A gente sempre tinha a comida da visita, mesmo que não houvesse visita alguma sendo esperada. Mas não havia desperdício, algo considerado pecado entre os imigrantes. Você tem que raspar o prato, jamais servir mais do que consegue comer", lembra.As sobras voltavam à mesa, mas nunca no mesmo formato —rejeitar comida requentada é outro hábito comum que Porpino registrou na pesquisa, realizada em residências de classe média baixa da zona leste paulistana e de Itapoã, região administrativa do Distrito Federal."Na minha casa, as receitas preparadas a partir das sobras eram sempre enfeitadas e viravam outros pratos", diz Ana, que se declara fã das tigeladas e suflês."Ovos têm o poder de alegrar qualquer sobra. Você bate o chuchu cozido com um creminho de ovos, põe um parmesão e leva ao forno, fica uma maravilha."Também compõem o repertório os populares mexidinhos, que se valem de sobras de arroz, vegetais, carnes e o que mais houver à mão.O site Panelinha, da apresentadora Rita Lobo, tem uma seção inteira de receitas dedicadas a eles —dá para transformar restos de espaguete em fritata, pão dormido em salada, e o feijão de ontem em bolinho.Sobras podem ter até assinatura de chef. No quadro Sobrou pro Chef!, do programa Cozinha Prática (GNT), Rita desafia chefs famosos a criarem receitas a partir da reciclagem de ingredientes —e vai além, ensinando a deixar sobras de propósito, adiantando assim o preparo da próxima refeição. | comida |
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] | Jabuticabeiras carregadas tornaram-se uma atração tanto quanto obras de Inhotim, museu em Brumadinho, Minas Gerais, para um grupo de cozinheiros estrangeiros. Eles faziam comentários sobre a explosão doce na boca depois que a casca grossa da fruta era rompida. Uma turista brinca que é assim que o mirtilo gostaria de ser.Os chefs, que aproveitavam a manhã de sábado (12) para visitar o espaço, foram convidados pelo Festival Fartura para uma série de jantares da programação em Belo Horizonte. É a primeira visita que fazem ao Brasil.Depois de duas edições online, o festival está de volta presencialmente, no que virou a Temporada Fartura, com ações e eventos em todas as regiões do país e em Portugal.Concentrada no mês de novembro, a Temporada Fartura começou em Belo Horizonte e na cidade vizinha Nova Lima (entre os dias 8 e 13), e segue para Lisboa, em Portugal (16), Brasília (também no dia 16), Florianópolis (17), Belém (19), São Paulo (19 e 20) e termina em Fortaleza (de 25 a 27).Em Lisboa, um jantar e uma mesa de conversa sobre gastronomia brasileira marcaram o lançamento do projeto Fartura - Viver Portugal, que tem previsão de acontecer em abril de 2023 e busca aproximar os dois países por meio da cultura e de negócios. Mais No Brasil, os eventos foram reformulados na volta ao presencial. Em Belo Horizonte, enquanto a feira de rua ficou menor, com seis produtores locais e uma programação com demonstrações de cozinha ao vivo, houve uma série de jantares feitos por chefs estrangeiros --uma ação inédita do festival na capital mineira."A gente quer mostrar para esses cozinheiros que no interior do país existe uma culinária muito significativa", diz Carolina Daher, curadora gastronômica do Fartura junto à chef Morena Leite. Ela explica que o título dado à Belo Horizonte de cidade criativa da gastronomia, pela Unesco, em 2019, inspirou a ação.Também é um retorno à história do Fartura, já que o Festival de Cultura e Gastronomia de Tiradentes começou há 25 anos recebendo nomes internacionais para cozinhar na cidade. O evento em Tiradentes, o primeiro festival do tipo do país, é o embrião do Fartura, que assumiu sua produção em 2009 com enfoque na comida brasileira. Mais A escolha dos cinco convidados internacionais ficou a cargo da chef Morena Leite. Entre eles, estavam três cozinheiros com restaurantes em Londres: a espanhola Nieves Barragan, do Sabor, com uma estrela Michelin; a australiana Skye Gyngell, que comanda o Spring; e o inglês Chris Leach, do italiano Manteca."Era importante para nós trazer cozinheiros da Inglaterra para Nova Lima, que é uma cidade com muitos imigrantes e famílias de lá", diz Daher.Completam a lista o português Rodrigo Castelo, do Ó Balcão, em Santarém, e o francês Patrick Terrien, o chef número um da escola de culinária Le Cordon Bleu.A programação da trupe incluía preparar jantares no espaço do Bravo Catering, em Nova Lima, e no sobrado da Casa Fartura, em Belo Horizonte. O grupo também fez passeios para conhecer o Mercado Central da cidade e restaurantes como o tradicional Xapuri e o sofisticado Glouton, na 68º posição do ranking latino do 50 Best Restaurants, além de visitar Inhotim.As refeições preparadas pelos chefs mostravam um pouco do que eles servem em suas cozinhas do outro lado do oceano --com uma ou outra surpresa. Skye Gyngell, a australiana do Spring, incorporou ora-pro-nóbis e castanhas-do-pará a um dos pratos que executou no Bravo Catering.Para Carolina Daher, a curadora, a relação que o Brasil tinha com sua comida há 25 anos, quando o Fartura ainda engatinhava, era outra. Naquela época, segundo ela, o país ainda não tinha a "autoestima" de agora para falar sobre gastronomia."Hoje, nós podemos trazer um chef não só para apresentar sua cultura, mas também para conhecer a nossa. Há uma troca", diz. "Quando esses chefs estiverem usando mirtilo lá em Londres, vão poder falar que comeram do pé uma fruta incrível do Brasil que se chama jabuticaba." | comida |
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] | Foi inspirado nas receitas de suas avós, uma mineira e outra paraense, que o chef Rodrigo Isaias elaborou o cardápio do restaurante Benedita, em São Paulo.Cozinhar sempre uniu a família de Rodrigo, que gostava de fazer as refeições junta. "A comida estava sempre ali no meio, ligando aquilo tudo."Para ele, o afeto era transmitido nessas ocasiões, quando o preparo ficava a cargo das avós. Esse é o sentimento que busca transmitir no restaurante, que evoca a nostalgia de sabores da infância.A comida do Benedita reflete a mesa de todas as regiões do país e tem receitas criadas por familiares de Rodrigo. Entre as opções, o vatapá da Vó Zenaide (R$ 64) leva dendê, camarão, leite de coco e é engrossado com farinha de arroz.Influenciado pela espiritualidade da família —o dono foi criado como católico—, o Benedita celebra festas religiosas como Círio de Nazaré.Segundo Marcella Sulis, professora de gastronomia da UFRJ (Universidade Federal do Rio de Janeiro), a cozinha afetiva valoriza as origens da alimentação brasileira, com pratos típicos e opções acessíveis, que lembram, justamente, comida de avó.Para Marcella, a afetividade também supre o isolamento na vida cotidiana, sobretudo nos centros urbanos, onde pessoas procuram se reconectar com a comida caseira mesmo longe de casa.Além do apelo à brasilidade, essa culinária integra a história pessoal dos chefs com a dos restaurantes, criando intimidade com o cliente. "Eles focam não só em ter uma comida boa, mas em conteúdo e processo criativo voltados a questões ligadas à cultura e à tradição", afirma Marcela. Mais Dandara Batista, chef do AfroGourmet, no Rio de Janeiro, usa a cozinha africana e a ancestralidade para despertar a memória afetiva.Ela diz que, embora o apagamento histórico tenha tornado nebulosa a origem da culinária afro-brasileira, o paladar reconhece os sabores do continente. "É uma comida que remete a memórias que as pessoas nem sabem que têm."Dandara se aproximou da gastronomia africana pelas raízes baianas da família paterna. Ela cresceu cercada pela influência da culinária do estado, que considera como principal expoente dessa comida afro-brasileira.Para aprender sobre a cozinha da África, Dandara viajou a países como Angola e São Tomé e Príncipe.No AfroGourmet, ela prepara pratos a partir de referências familiares. Um deles é o cozido de rabada sul-africano (R$ 42), uma releitura da receita da avó materna, que leva, além da rabada, legumes, arroz de açafrão e passas.Receba no seu email um guia com a programação cultural da capital paulista; aberta para não assinantes.Carregando...Restaurantes de cozinha afetiva usam ainda outros elementos para criar nostalgia.No Maracujá, em São Paulo, o brigadeiro é servido em uma panelinha, igual ao feito em casa. O bolo de coco vem embrulhado em papel laminado, como nas festas infantis.A chef Elisa Fonseca comprou a casa em 2012 e começou a adaptá-lo para abraçar a cozinha afetiva. Incluiu no cardápio receitas da família, como o mexidinho mineiro, que aprendeu com a mãe. O prato (R$ 54), é feito com arroz, feijão, filé-mignon, couve, queijo-coalho, farinha de milho e ovo frito com gema mole.O acolhimento se estende à relação com os clientes —os fregueses mais fiéis aparecem em fotos em uma das paredes. "Quero que o restaurante tenha o aconchego de avó para que as pessoas o reconheçam como extensão da própria casa." | comida |
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] | Nesta época do ano as inúmeras listas com os melhores restaurantes começam a publicar os seus resultados, cada uma baseada em um critério e a maioria desconhecido.Nesta mesma época alguns editores de jornais, talvez tão confusos quanto eu, me pedem gentilmente para que eu escreva um artigo na tentativa de explicar algo.Ocorre que é impossível, como já disse no passado. Os critérios ou são pessoais, ou são votações pela internet, onde vários restaurantes fazem campanhas na intenção de ter um resultado melhor. Campanhas como: "Não esqueça de votar em nós. Para nós é muito importante".Vamos começar pela mais importante, porém a mais ridícula, a mais patética, que é aquela que pretende eleger o melhor restaurante do mundo, a tal 50 Best, como se isso fosse possível.Parece que hoje está até um pouco mais séria do que já foi no passado, quando assessorias de imprensa mandavam propostas de trabalho no sentido de "ajuda" para entrar na lista. Incluíam, além do preço, passagens aéreas para jornalistas, estadias, jantares etc.Cheguei a receber gratuitamente em meu hotel jornalistas ingleses que eram importantes na votação, tudo a pedido de um amigo chef de cozinha no Brasil, que depois os levaria para a Amazônia. Ao voltarem, dormiram mais uma noite no Fasano. Ao jantarem aqui um ossobuco, um deles, com o melhor humor inglês, disse: "Thank God, real food again!". Mais Esta lista é composta por chefs que em sua maioria se conhecem, se frequentam, se conversam. Um vota no outro, e todos têm que ter uma certa filosofia em comum.Cozinha clássica não lhes interessa, tem que ser invenção. Mesmo que esdrúxula.E, normalmente, você tem que ter em seu corpo dizeres importantes, filosóficos: "Cozinha é arte e arte é cultura". Não obstante, esqueceram que cozinha sempre foi cultura, muito antes de ser considerada arte.Me digam como é possível comparar um restaurante que cozinha com nitrogênio líquido com um de cozinha clássica. Os dois podem até ser muito bons —apesar de que tenho certa desconfiança do uso do nitrogênio líquido tão em moda, pois, na minha infância, era usado para tirar verrugas. Fará bem ao seu estômago? Gênios como o Ferran Adrià são muito poucos, a maioria é cópia vulgar. Ninguém como ele inventou uma colher cheia de furinhos para comer corn flakes. Basta um gol de placa na vida para fazer parte da história.Acho ainda muito estranho que pouquíssimos destes restaurantes hoje saiam da Itália ou da França, e, sim, do Peru, da Colômbia, da Coreia...Só tem uma coisa mais patética que a "lista" —mesmo que o Fasano tenha entrado em uma delas este ano—, que é a crítica que se refere a ela como o Oscar da Gastronomia. Mas, como assim? Vários anos e o mesmo filme? Coppola, Marlon Brando, Al Pacino, De Niro estariam ganhando desde 1971 com o primeiro da trilogia mais espetacular do cinema até hoje, "O Poderoso Chefão".Recentemente, a ótima revista francesa Bon Appétit fez uma matéria cujo título era: "Precisamos Parar de Levar Esta Lista a Sério". Mais Vários outros guias seguiram o mesmo caminho e fazem regionalmente uma eleição, o melhor de São Paulo, o melhor do Rio etc. São tantas as premiações que quase todos os estabelecimentos de São Paulo colocam em suas fachadas "O Melhor de São Paulo". Aí, citam em pequenas letras a fonte.Outro dia, andando de bicicleta por São Paulo, passei na frente de vários melhores pastéis, melhores coxinhas, melhor pizza, melhor quibe, melhor esfiha, melhor pão de queijo.Quase que como na publicidade, com seus inúmeros prêmios, leões de ouro, prata, cobre, platina, ferro, para quase todos os participantes. Ninguém vai a Cannes e volta com a mão vazia.É verdade, alguns sequer vão. Mas o que mais me incomoda é o conceito de "o melhor de". São lugares tão distintos entre si que a única maneira de julgá-los é colocar pontuação, garfos, estrelas e, sobretudo, a publicação tem que ser soberana.Não dá para fazer aquela cerimônia de premiação que cria expectativa, tal qual um reality show onde o vencedor é anunciado na hora, entre três finalistas, que ficam se olhando com ódio durante "a festa", e que deixam muito mais gente frustrada do que feliz.Posso dizer isto com tranquilidade e sinceridade, pois já ganhei vários destes prêmios, inúmeros, e sempre me foi constrangedor olhar depois para os outros. Não somos corredores de Fórmula 1, somos todos colegas de uma profissão tão árdua e tão difícil.Abrimos há quase um ano o restaurante em Nova York, onde nunca vi isso acontecer. Assim como também não dão a menor pelota para a lista inglesa do The Restaurant. Nobody cares!A grande alegria de estar em Nova York é ter a certeza de que seu restaurante pode ser frequentado por quase todo mundo. O porteiro do prédio. Um italiano onde alugo um apartamento, e que por lá esteve com sua esposa outro dia, me encheu de alegria.Como devem saber, sou um restaurateur e não um chef, uma profissão em extinção. Somente os restaurantes de chef sobreviverão no futuro, e a crítica especializada não tem ajudado em nada —pelo contrário, não valoriza quem pensa no restaurante como um todo.Tentam acabar com ela ao não explicarem, por exemplo, como li outro dia, que arroz com banana, bife, ovo frito e farofa não é risoto. Isso é um desserviço. Assim como ninguém explica que qualquer coisa com óleo al tartufo é falso, químico e nada tem a ver com a verdadeira trufa fresca. Duvido que faça bem à sua saúde, mas proliferam como pragas até nos japoneses em São Paulo. Um horror! Assim como vemos ultimamente risotos que são terminados com creme de leite. Tadinha da minha nonna! Mais Na minha opinião, esta deveria ser uma das funções da crítica. Por isso talvez estejam perdendo tanto terreno para as mídias sociais. Nem tudo é tão bom como dizem e, por várias e várias vezes, o melhor do ano sequer chega até o final do próximo ano.Bato há vários anos nesta tecla, mas devo dizer que a maneira com que tento colaborar é com minha função de restaurateur, cujo grande prazer é agradar aos outros com uma grande noite ou um agradável almoço. Não quero aplausos, não sou genial em praticamente nada, posso ter algum talento mas, com certeza, o maior deles é o excesso de trabalho.Parem também de levar a sério quem é o "melhor de". Pontuação é o único jeito, e ainda melhor, como fazia os Zagats, melhor guia que já existiu, dando pontuação não apenas para a cozinha mas para o serviço, para o ambiente e, obviamente, para o preço. Estes são os itens que fazem de fato um restaurante ser bom, e isto é, na minha opinião, o que um guia deveria fazer ao tentar explicar uma cidade. Pode-se sempre discordar dele ou não.Eu, por exemplo, gostaria de ser julgado apenas por críticos italianos, mas sei que isto é impossível. Tal como acho ser impossível também que um único crítico disserte sobre cozinhas francesas, italianas, japonesas, peruanas, brasileiras e etc. Façam como nos Zagats, deem ponto para a cozinha, para o serviço, a arquitetura (o ambiente) e, obviamente, o quanto isto custa.Não me tornem um dinossauro. Não quero estar em extinção. Jajá sobrarão apenas os restaurantes dos chefs e, talvez, se coma pior, mas a crítica parece estar mais interessada em criar "novidades", mesmo que elas durem pouco. Ficar velho é fácil e todos ficaremos, mas virar clássico, como nós, é muito difícil. Acreditem!Em metrópoles repletas de oriundos, a cozinha de sua origem tem que ter a mesma importância que uma cozinha brasileira no Brasil, o ceviche no Peru. Ou, então, façam uma fusion cuisine que confundirá a todos colocando shoyu no espaguete. | comida |
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] | As opções em restaurantes para quem dispensa o álcool nas refeições já não se limitam a suco de laranja e refrigerante. Casas vêm investindo em harmonizar bebidas não alcoólicas a pratos, seguindo a mesma lógica usada para vinhos e cervejas —e acompanhando um movimento mundial encabeçado por gerações mais jovens.No curitibano Manu, cada um dos tempos do menu-degustação pode ser acompanhado por uma bebida não alcoólica. O serviço custa R$ 240 (apenas a harmonização). A ideia veio da chef e proprietária Manu Buffara e saiu do papel na metade deste ano.Para fazer as combinações, há kombuchas preparadas por parceiros e infusões da casa —uma delas, mais herbal, leva pepino, salsão, manjericão e zimbro; outra, mais frutada, mistura hibisco com amora, mirtilo e morango.Também há outros cinco fermentados rotativos feitos em colaboração entre as equipes do bar e da cozinha do Manu. Um deles leva batata-doce, curry e maracujá.As bebidas vão se alternando por conta da sazonalidade dos ingredientes, da sua curta validade e para acompanhar as mudanças do cardápio.O processo de escolha dos fermentados leva em consideração as características dos pratos —se a receita tem, por exemplo, sabor mais adocicado, ácido ou terroso, explica a sommelière Juli Rodrigues, 34."Para um prato com muita gordura, uso vinhos mais ácidos como [os feitos com a uva] riesling. O mesmo vale para a harmonização não alcoólica. Para carne, preciso de algo com mais especiarias, então usamos bebidas com anis, zimbro ou folha do curry."No paulistano D.O.M., do chef Alex Atala, a harmonização não alcoólica é feita de maneira mais informal, como sugestão —o serviço não é cobrado, e o cliente paga o preço da bebida escolhida. Mais O foco dos sommeliers Gabriela Monteleone, 39, e Luciano Freitas, 34, é nos fermentados produzidos e engarrafados no restaurante desde 2018.Uma das opções fabricadas é o aluá, uma bebida que, na casa, é feita com abacaxi, gengibre e rapadura, e tem origens indígenas e quilombolas. Por lá, é servida como boas-vindas acompanhando castanha-de-caju com sal.Frutas como jabuticaba e caju se alternam com outras opções sazonais quase diariamente, e cerca de 20 garrafas são preparadas por semana."É diferente de fazer harmonização com vinho por conta da oferta de ingredientes. Pode ser que o fornecedor não tenha um cambuci, por exemplo", explica Gabriela.Por conta dessa rotatividade, as opções de bebidas produzidas pelo restaurante vão mudando para acompanhar o menu. Dois drinques não alcoólicos, porém, estão permanentemente no cardápio: cordial (espécie de licor) de jabuticaba com limão e água com gás e o drinque de taperebá com limão e manjericão."Procuramos manter o critério de força entre prato e bebida. Receitas com ingredientes brasileiros, foco do D.O.M., pedem mais acidez e menos doçura", diz Gabriela.Segundo ela, a brasilidade também é explorada nos drinques por meio de ervas, especiarias e raízes capazes de dar mais textura e corpo, como o amargor e o tanino (sensação adstringente na língua) do chá-mate ou da carqueja.O restaurante Pacato, de Belo Horizonte (MG), é outro a ter uma carta dedicada a quem não quer ingerir álcool. No menu-degustação lançado na semana passada, inspirado no Vale do Jequitinhonha, 6 dos 9 tempos são servidos com drinques não alcoólicos.O prato mais pesado, que leva carne de sol, salada de palma, vagem e mandioca é servido com um chá de limão-cravo e laranja com refrigerante de pomelo e angostura."Tradicionalmente harmonizamos por oposição ou por semelhança ao sabor do prato, mas também buscamos outras relações, como contextos culturais e históricos’’, afirma Caio Soter, chef e dono.Segundo Gabriela Monteleone, do D.O.M., o consumo de bebidas não alcoólicas deve crescer nos próximos anos. "As novas gerações bebem menos, têm mais curiosidade e não entendem só o vinho como bebida de restaurante.""Hoje, conseguimos oferecer opções que vão além do sucos e refrigerantes. É possível preparar de cold brew (método que faz infusão prolongada de café em água fria) até uma água aromatizada, que parece simples, mas pode ser super refinada", acrescenta. | comida |
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] | A afetividade despertada pela comida vai além do aroma e do sabor do alimento e passa pelas mãos que conduzem os preparos.A partir desse entendimento, o professor de gastronomia da FMU (Centro Universitário das Faculdades Metropolitanas Unidas) Deumas de Oliveira estruturou as aulas do curso de formação em cozinha que ministrou para pessoas em situação de vulnerabilidade social em São Paulo.Além das técnicas de lavagem, manuseio e armazenamento de insumos e do preparo de pratos frios e quentes, o professor se empenhou em gerar transformação."A gastronomia é só uma forma de a gente se encontrar, mas nunca é só sobre gastronomia. Tento fazer um esforço racional para que aconteça uma virada de chave na vida deles", afirma ele.A iniciativa foi um trabalho conjunto entre a faculdade, a ONG Gerando Falcões e a cozinha industrial Ondina Alimentação. Eles tiveram como base os Objetivos do Desenvolvimento Sustentável da ONU, que incluem a erradicação da pobreza e o acesso à educação e ao trabalho digno.Além dos dois meses de curso gratuito, os alunos tiveram acesso ao material para as aulas, almoço e vale-transporte para se deslocarem até a unidade da FMU na Liberdade (região central de São Paulo).Para os estudantes, os benefícios foram essenciais, já que alguns moram em centros de acolhimento, ocupações ou na periferia.Após a formatura, que aconteceu em 31 de outubro, 2 dos 17 formandos foram contratados como auxiliares de cozinha pela pela Ondina Alimentação, no regime CLT. De acordo com a coordenadora do curso, Sandra Cristina Borges Monici, outros 12 serão chamados pela empresa em janeiro de 2023.Com todos igualmente capacitados, o critério de escolha foi a proximidade da moradia do profissional com a unidade onde o trabalho será realizado.Um dos que vão começar no ano que vem é Levi Anjos Dutra, 20, homem transexual. Ao cozinhar em casa para a família durante a pandemia de Covid-19, ele reencontrou o menino que brincava de cozinha durante a infância."Todo mundo dizia que eu levava jeito, que eu cozinhava bem, e aí comecei a buscar me aperfeiçoar. Hoje, a gastronomia é meu sonho", conta.Antes do curso de auxiliar de cozinha, ele se certificou em panificação na Associação Beneficente Vivenda da Criança. Agora, a meta é começar a trabalhar para pagar a faculdade de gastronomia e abrir seu próprio negócio.Mãe solo, Priscila Monique de Carvalho, 39, viu na iniciativa uma oportunidade de sair da informalidade. Ela prepara refeições em uma casa de repouso, cobrindo folgas, mas o salário não é suficiente para o sustento da família, formada por ela e três filhos.Com o estímulo para estudar e a perspectiva de conseguir um emprego, ela teve uma melhora do quadro de depressão que vivia há anos. A dois meses de ter a carteira assinada, ela conta que o próximo passo será ajudar a filha a realizar o sonho de se formar em psicologia.Diretora de marketing e sustentabilidade da Ondina, Leonor Nabais da Furrela D’Andrea conta que as contratações também trazem benefícios para a empresa."Nas reuniões internas de diretoria, nós identificamos essa carência de mão de obra. Percebemos que tinha uma evasão muito grande das pessoas, principalmente na base, porque talvez elas não consigam enxergar que existe uma carreira dentro da cozinha", diz.Outra meta da iniciativa é promover a gastronomia sustentável, relacionada à diminuição dos impactos causados pelo consumo alimentar.Na opinião do vice-presidente acadêmico da FMU, Manuel Nabais da Furriela, a formação complementa o papel social da faculdade."Entendemos que o nosso curso de gastronomia, tão tradicional, tem que dar uma colaboração para a sociedade. Então a gente faz uma ponte entre a necessidade do mercado e a dessas pessoas de terem formação", afirma. Segundo ele, uma nova turma deve ser aberta em março de 2023. Mais Outro trabalho social feito pelo professor Deumas é o curso de pães e pizzas, ministrado no Centro de Acolhida Campo Limpo (zona sul da capital paulista).Vinculado ao Centro de Referência de Assistência Social, o espaço atende diariamente 200 homens em situação de rua. Até agora foram 12 formados, 7 dos quais já estão trabalhando.O Instituto Capim Santo, iniciativa criada por Morena Leite, chef do restaurante homônimo, mas uma entidade independente, também vê a gastronomia como ferramenta de transformação social.Neste ano, 250 pessoas concluíram a formação gratuita em gastronomia social e sustentável da entidade no projeto Cozinha do Amanhã.As ações realizadas nas cinco unidades do instituto, localizadas nos estados de São Paulo, Rio de Janeiro e Bahia, são mantidas por meio de patrocínios e doações.Em 2023, apenas na cidade de São Paulo, o instituto pretende formar 5.000 pessoas, atuando em parceria com os CEUs (Centros Educacionais Unificados), órgãos administrados pela prefeitura. | comida |
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] | Do tabelião tocado pelo pai, Amadeu Ferraz, em Belo Horizonte, vieram o foco, a disciplina e um bocadinho de burocracia. Já quem lhe emprestou a sensibilidade para desbravar tons, cores e sabores do Brasil foi a mãe, Ângela Ferraz, marchande apaixonada pelas artes. Os pais já partiram, mas deixaram no filho, Rodrigo Ferraz, 55, essa característica, uma mescla de empreendedorismo com descobertas. O resultado é uma obra ainda em construção a respeito da cultura gastronômica brasileira.Ela nasceu com o projeto Expedição Fartura Gastronomia, embrião do Festival Fartura, que chega nos próximos dias 19 e 20 ao Jockey Club de São Paulo, antecedido por um jantar, no dia 18.Tiradentes, Belo Horizonte, e outras duas cidades mineiras, Serro e Conceição de Mato Dentro, além de Porto Alegre, Fortaleza, Lisboa, Brasília, Belém e Florianópolis já foram palco do Fartura. Ao todo, cerca de 5.000 chefs participaram dos eventos. Ao menos 2 milhões de pratos foram vendidos. Neste ano, o festival deve receber ao menos 1 milhão de visitantes em suas sete edições. "Aqui em São Paulo será o único Fartura que a gente vai trazer chefs de todo o Brasil.""Serão cerca de 40. Um chef indica outro. Um produtor indica outro produtor, o chef indica outro produtor. Vira uma comunidade", explica. "E a comunidade deu origem a uma plataforma gigantesca sobre comida brasileira, um trabalho amplo de pesquisa que culmina no evento", completa.Uma das questões mais importantes do Fartura é que ele navega na busca da cultura gastronômica ao levantar, com as expedições, as matrizes culturais presentes nos locais por onde vai, a essência do que gera a tradição cultural. Da mesma forma, também busca mostrar o que está no topo do ponto de vista gastronômico. É um festival que navega em todas as águas. Tem uma visão para os diversos aspectos, momentos e essências da cozinhachef do restaurante Dona Lucinha, de Belo HorizonteEsse acervo é fruto de suas andanças, que ultrapassam 90 mil quilômetros, por todos os estados e o DF. O resultado é compartilhado em site, redes sociais, vídeos, livros, TV e rádio. Ferraz conheceu ao menos 630 produtores e cozinheiros. No Lajeado do Pai Mateus, em Cabaceiras, na Paraíba, por exemplo, descobriu o bode no buraco. Em Cruzeiro do Sul, no Vale do Juruá, no Acre, sua jornada registrou produtores em torno da farinha de mandioca considerada uma das melhores do Brasil, ingrediente da farofa de castanhas com banana que consta dessas descobertas. E pensar que foi num fim de tarde, com a passarinhada voando de galho em galho, pertinho do centro histórico de Tiradentes, que tudo começou, lá pelos anos 2008, como bem lembra Ferraz.O empresário ajudava no Festival de Gastronomia de Tiradentes, quando botou reparo numa bicicleta, de cor laranja, com cestinha à frente, aproximando-se em sua direção. O entregador trazia, empilhados, uns 15 queijos para uma típica mercearia mineira, daquelas pequeninas, mas onde se encontra de tudo. Mais Mal o rapaz entrou para descarregar a encomenda, uma moça saiu com dois queijos. Era uma cena comum, só que despertou a atenção do empresário. "Pensei. Uai, isso é uma cadeia produtiva."Ferraz foi dono de transportadora. Teve dez bares e restaurantes e uma boate na capital Belo Horizonte. "Graças a Deus, vendi tudo", diverte-se ele, que já foi conhecido como "o rei da noite mineira". Mantém somente a Albanos, que nasceu como choperia, em homenagem a um dos fundadores da famosa choperia Pinguim, de Ribeirão Preto, e hoje trabalha com uma linha de cervejas artesanais.Otrabalho de Rodrigo não é apenas importante por divulgar a culinária nacional aqui e lá fora, mas também por ser um grande impulsionador da possibilidade de encontros das pontas, que vão do cozinheiro ao produtor. São nesses momentos que nós, cozinheiros, que buscamos essas peculiaridades e verdades incessantemente, conseguimos ter acesso a elas e ainda estreitamos essas relaçõeschef do restaurante Santo Grão, de São PauloComo empresário da noite, acabou criando uma produtora de eventos. Com ela, em agosto de 2008, foi tentar dar uma mexida no Festival Gastronômico de Tiradentes. "Foi observando o festival que enxerguei a cadeia produtiva da gastronomia como um todo. Eu me dei conta que a gastronomia, além de valor cultural, tem valor social e econômico, o que mexe com a vida de muita gente."Assim, em 2012, nascia o Fartura, com a missão de contar histórias, descobrir novos ingredientes e, sobretudo, conectar esse universo culinário continental que é o Brasil. Formado em administração e direito, com especialização em administração financeira, encomendou um estudo que comprovava a importância econômica da cadeia produtiva gastronômica. Daí, juntou umas economias e colocou a expedição na estrada. O que ele e a equipe pesquisam sobre receitas, ingredientes e modos de preparo acabava indo parar nos dos festivais. "Em Mato Grosso, encontrava o cara de jacaré. De lá, trazia o produtor e o cozinheiro de jacaré. Visitava o Ceará. Conhecia o produtor da lagosta e trazia o produtor e o cozinheiro de lagosta para o festival em Tiradentes", lembra. O nome Fartura vem da abundância de alimentos encontrados num país de proporções continentais como o nosso. "Dentro dessa diversidade, não temos clima de deserto, temos clima árido, catinga, mas não tem deserto nem gelo. Então Fartura simboliza essa riqueza do país." Quando se fala sobre a diversidade de alimentos, nenhum lugar se compara, é claro, a São Paulo. "Aqui é possível encontrar ingredientes de todas as partes do país." As cozinhas de Minas e da Bahia despertam nele um carinho especial. "Elas conseguem unir riqueza gastronômica ao gesto de receber bem."O que é abordado nos encontros do Fartura não é só a questão da gastronomia, mas da cultura. É uma forma de entender um Brasil mais profundo que revela saberes, ingredientes e maneirismos. O evento também é uma forma de melhorar a autoestima das pessoas, tanto de quem vai ao evento, como público, quanto de produtores, que estão escondidos nesse Brasil tão profundo e que têm a possibilidade de revelar o seu produto, a sua forma de fazer e até comercializarchef do restaurante Tordesilhas, de São Paulo | comida |
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] | A provavelmente única receita com bacalhau consumida na Noruega não é exatamente nativa. A influência vem do norte da Espanha, de Viscaia, da região basca.O molho espesso de tomate é acompanhado por batatas e pimentão.Veja como preparar o bacalhau à Norueguesa.Tempo de preparo: 50 a 60 minNível de dificuldade: médioServe seis pessoasIngredientesModo de preparoAqueça o azeite numa panela e junte o purê de tomate. Acrescente a água, os tomates de conserva, as batatas cortadas, as ervas secas e, se quiser, o piripiri em pó.Acrescente metade do bacalhau, toda a cebola, o alho, as azeitonas e o piripiri no molho. Dê uma fervida e deixe a panela em fogo brando entre 20 e 30 minutos.Deite o bacalhau restante no molho, para que os filetes fiquem inteiros e bonitos na hora de servir. Mantenha o fogo baixo até o peixe estar cozido.Pode-se preparar este guisado com antecedência e esquentá-lo antes de servir. Conte cerca de 1 hora para o aquecimento em fogo brando ou no forno a 170 graus. Adicione as ervas frescas antes de servir. Mais Para cada parte dos peixes, há um tempo de dessalgue diferente. Bacalhau desfiado: 6 horas (trocar a água de 3 em 3 horas) Postas normais: 24 horas (trocar a água de 6 em 6 horas) Postas grossas: 40 horas (trocar a água de 8 em 8 horas) Postas muito grossas: 48 horas (trocar a água de 8 em 8 horas) Lombos muito grossos: 72 horas (trocar a água de 8 em 8 horas) Na hora de trocar a água, não troque a água do bacalhau e sim o bacalhau de água. Coloque pedras de gelo na outra vasilha, que está apenas com água gelada, e troque o bacalhau de vasilha.Fonte: bacalhaudanoruega.com.br | comida |
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] | O bacalhau tem cabeça, sim. Mas ela vai para a Nigéria. Os ossos são encaminhados para a China. A língua viaja para a Espanha.Já a peça inteira do Gadus morhua, peixe considerado o rei dos bacalhaus da Noruega, é salgada, desidratada e depois aparada com capricho para ter boa aparência final. E ganha um último toque cosmético de sal para deixá-la ainda mais branca. Um dos destinos finais é o Brasil.É este produto considerado premium o principal alvo dos noruegueses no trabalho de convencer brasileiros a consumirem mais bacalhau, para além da tradição na Páscoa e no Natal ensinada pelas avós portuguesas, ou dos bolinhos servidos nos bares.Brasileiros comem em geral menos pescados do que o recomendado pela OMS (Organização Mundial da Saúde) —seriam 12 kg por pessoa por ano, considerando peixes e frutos do mar."No Brasil o consumo é de nove quilos por ano. Qualquer cem gramas a mais por pessoa que conseguirmos aumentar nesta média é um impacto enorme para nós", afirma Øystein Valanes, diretor Brasil do Conselho Norueguês da Pesca, ele mesmo filho e neto de pescadores nascido em Tromsø, e que praticou o ofício por dez anos.Noruegueses levam a sério a missão de vender seu peixe. Depois do petróleo e do gás, os pescados são o principal produto de exportação do país. Ainda brigam para emplacar no Brasil o salmão norueguês, atualmente de domínio quase completo do Chile.O bacalhau propriamente dito, para os padrões noruegueses, só pode ser atribuído ao Gadus morhua, o maior e mais robusto deste grupo de peixes, perfeito para o consumo em postas, por exemplo.É vendido ao Brasil pela Noruega em peça inteira, salgado e desidratado. Já Portugal, o principal comprador do pescado norueguês, exporta também o bacalhau para o Brasil, tanto na versão peça integral como o fraciona em postas, com a opção de já dessalgadas.A forma desfiada e mais barata é, em geral, da espécie saithe (Pollachius virens), peixe um pouco menor mas com sabor bem concentrado. É o tipo mais vendido para o Nordeste. Ling e Zarbo salgados e secos também são exportados ao Brasil.Uma das barreiras para ampliar o consumo do bacalhau nos trópicos é o preço. O valor oscila nos 60 dias em que a peça demora para chegar ao Brasil.O Gadus morhua é capturado no mar do norte europeu por barcos da Noruega, Rússia, Groenlândia e Islândia principalmente no inverno, entre janeiro e março.Ele custa em média 40 coroas norueguesas o quilo, o equivalente a R$ 20, se vendido fresco, no local, assim que retirado da água. Um saithe in natura vale a metade. Mais Depois de salgado e desidratado nas fábricas das cidades norueguesas de Tromsø e Ålesund, em processos que duram em torno de um mês, o bacalhau sai do porto na Holanda custando cerca de 100 coroas (próximo de R$ 50) o quilo.Da viagem pelo Atlântico por 30 dias até chegar ao Brasil, entram custos de transporte, impostos e revenda de importadores para as grandes redes de supermercado.Para o cliente final, o Gadus morhua custa em torno de R$ 150 o quilo nos mercados brasileiros —quase oito vezes mais, portanto, do que o momento em que o peixe sai da água gelada do norte europeu.A crise econômica, agravada na pandemia, fez as pessoas procurarem proteínas mais baratas, como frango e ovo.O bacalhau sentiu o baque, com redução do consumo se comparado a antes de 2019. Além do valor alto, outra possível explicação é a Covid: o bacalhau é um prato no Brasil servido em família, e elas não podiam se reunir por causa da quarentena.Uma das saídas discutidas pelos noruegueses é a reduflação. O nome complicado explica uma prática conhecida de quem passa pelas gôndolas de supermercado e repara no tamanho diminuído nas embalagens de alimentos, sem que o preço tenha reduzido.Em 2021, foram 15,7 mil toneladas exportadas ao Brasil. A projeção para este ano é mais otimista, de 16 a 17 mil toneladas, mas ainda longe do cenário de 2019, de 19,5 mil toneladas.Se no Brasil a tradição portuguesa domina as formas de preparo, a talvez única receita de bacalhau consumida na Noruega tem influência espanhola.Trata-se de uma forma de cozido do Gadhus morhua em pedaços, já feito o processo de dessalga, com um molho espesso de tomate. Acompanhado de batatas, cebola e azeitonas pretas, é perfeito para temperatura local de cidades como Tromsø, que não raro chega a abaixo de zero grau.É possível encontrar esta receita pronta em potes na geladeira nos supermercados, com preços a 148 coroas (R$ 75).Para quem tem a oportunidade de estar na Noruega, o privilégio é descobrir o sabor leve do Gadus morhua e do saithe também na versão in natura, sem o processo de salga e secagem. Ovas de peixes e vieiras acrescentam sofisticação ao prato.A variação com que o bacalhau entra na culinária chega aos snacks, como pacotes de salgadinhos, ou na versão aperitivo seco, para acompanhar uma cerveja.Há outros produtos raros aos brasileiros disponíveis em bares e supermercados da Noruega. Entre eles, a carne de baleia em forma de salame e até mesmo como um hambúrguer (239 coroas, ou cerca de R$ 120).Os embutidos também alcançam animais fora do mar. Há salame de alce e de rena —sim, aquelas do Papai Noel. Entre os queijos, o destaque fica para o brunost, de leite de cabra norueguês, com gosto adocicado.*A reportagem viajou para a Noruega a convite do Conselho Norueguês da Pesca | comida |
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] | Quem gosta de vinhos já deve ter notado que uma nova categoria da bebida anda ocupando cada vez mais espaço nas cartas de restaurantes e bares: os chamados vinhos naturais, ancestrais ou de baixa intervenção.Como eles geralmente aparecem associados aos vinhos orgânicos ou biodinâmicos, a confusão é grande. Separar cada uma dessas categorias é o primeiro passo para compreender as diferenças —e elas são grandes.Vinhos orgânicos são produzidos a partir de uvas cultivadas sem pesticidas, herbicidas, fungicidas ou adubos químicos —e elas devem ser, necessariamente, certificadas como tal. Já os biodinâmicos vão além.Neste caso, os frutos, além de orgânicos, são cuidados conforme os preceitos criados pelo filósofo Rudolf Steiner no começo do século 20. Segundo sua teoria, a saúde do solo depende da integração da agricultura com vários aspectos da natureza.Ambas as classificações, portanto, dizem respeito apenas à etapa agrícola da produção, ou seja, ao cultivo das uvas.Vinho natural é outra história. Embora ainda não haja uma regulamentação brasileira para o segmento, os vinhateiros concordam que as uvas devem, sim, ser orgânicas. É assim na França, onde as regras para elaboração do "vin méthode nature" existem desde 2020.A diferença primordial, no entanto, está mesmo na etapa industrial, a vinificação, que segue métodos primitivos e não se vale de recursos tecnológicos.As leveduras responsáveis pela fermentação não podem ser exóticas, trazidas de outro lugar —devem ser apenas aquelas encontradas nas próprias uvas e no ambiente da vinícola, o que garante uma forte conexão com o terroir.Evita-se também a adição de sulfito (ou dióxido de enxofre), usado como conservante por sua ação antioxidante e bactericida. Nesse ponto, os produtores divergem —enquanto alguns admitem uma quantidade mínima de sulfito, os mais radicais defendem que ele passe longe de seus vinhos.Nascido na França nos anos 1980, mais especificamente na região de Beaujolais, sul da Borgonha, o movimento do vinho natural demorou mais de duas décadas para aportar por aqui. Um dos precursores, Luis Henrique Zanini, da gaúcha Era dos Ventos, produziu seu primeiro rótulo em 2007. Mais "Era muito chocante, as pessoas adoravam ou odiavam. Estranhavam a cor, a acidez alta e os traços oxidativos. Acostumadas ao paladar padronizado, claro que as pessoas rejeitavam", lembra Zanini, que acompanhou de dentro o crescimento do setor.Atualmente, com produção anual de 8.000 garrafas e rótulos que chegam a custar mais de R$ 500, Zanini comemora ter passado da fase de explicar seu trabalho."Até 2019, a gente atuava em um nicho de mercado, mas furamos a bolha. Chegamos a lugares que não são exclusivos da turma do vinho natural, mais pessoas estão provando."Consultora de vinhos do restaurante Maní, que figura entre os cem melhores do mundo pelo ranking 50 Best, Gabriela Bigarelli já pôs cerca de 80 vinhos orgânicos na carta. Desses, 15 são naturais oriundos de Portugal, Argentina, França, Espanha e Chile. A proporção, segundo ela, tende a aumentar."O cliente do lifestyle saudável já chega perguntando se tem vinho natural. Aos que não conhecem, explicamos sobre os métodos ancestrais e 99% ficam loucos para conhecer. Quem prova gosta muito", garante.Embora ainda polêmica entre profissionais da saúde, a promessa de eliminar a dor de cabeça no dia seguinte, culpa atribuída ao sulfito, atrai novos apreciadores. É o que diz Geoffroy De La Croix, fundador da importadora De La Croix, que trabalha exclusivamente com vinhos naturais franceses desde 2005.O portfólio original, que era de dez rótulos, chega hoje a 260."As pessoas se interessam por esse tipo de vinho por três razões: é melhor para a saúde, faz bem para o planeta e entrega maior complexidade. São vinhos que envelhecem de maneira fantástica e têm sido procurados por restaurantes do Brasil inteiro", afirma. Mais O casal Rita Brandão e Eduardo Borges, da loja e wine bar Primitivo, em Pinheiros, também escolheu trabalhar exclusivamente com os naturais e não tem do que reclamar. A casa nasceu em 2016, em Porto Alegre (RS), mas se transferiu para São Paulo, em 2020, em busca de um público mais aberto a experimentações."Aqui, nos esbaldamos", confessa Borges.Além de escolher entre 400 rótulos na prateleira, os clientes podem acompanhar a bebida com queijos, pães, charcutaria e azeites nacionais escolhidos a dedo pela dupla. O tempo da rejeição, eles garantem, ficou para trás."No começo, o vinho natural era mal desenvolvido. Muita gente oferecia bebidas com defeitos e dizia que era assim mesmo. Mas isso mudou. Só vendo vinhos de acabamento impecável", diz.Já tem produtor de vinho natural fazendo sucesso até entre os turistas de São Roque, no interior de São Paulo. Bisneto de vinhateiro e fundador da Bellaquinta, Gustavo Borges tem 30 rótulos no portfólio, metade vinificada sem intervenção.Um deles, o Palha, corte de Cabernet Franc e Cabernet Sauvignon, é vendido em garrafão de 880 ml revestido de palha, homenagem a seus antepassados, por R$ 80.Como 70% do faturamento da Bellaquinta vem do turismo, Gustavo se empenha em ser didático com seus visitantes. Mas também ajuda bastante nessa conquista vender vinhos a partir de R$ 42, quando a grande maioria dos naturais fica na casa dos três dígitos.Tudo indica, porém, que os preços salgados não chegam a atrapalhar o crescimento do setor. Considerada uma espécie de embaixadora informal dos vinhos de baixa intervenção no Brasil, a sommelière Lis Cereja, proprietária da Enoteca Saint Vin Saint, recebeu 1600 visitantes e 120 expositores nos dois dias da feira Naturebas, evento que ela organiza desde 2013.À primeira edição, que reuniu apenas 20 vinhateiros dentro do restaurante, compareceram cem pessoas.Ela aposta tanto no crescimento do mercado que está levando a feira para outros países —acontece no próximo dia 12 a primeira edição uruguaia. A ideia, adianta Lis, é expandir para outras capitais da América do Sul."As grandes feiras de vinhos naturais estão na Europa. Agora, queremos fomentar o mercado daqui e chegar a uma identidade latino-americana."Outra entusiasta dos vinhos de baixa intervenção, a sommelière-chefe do grupo D.O.M., Gabriela Monteleone, reconhece que os rótulos vinificados dessa forma ainda são vítimas de preconceito.Para a turma que torce o nariz, ela tem um recado na ponta da língua: "Falar de vinhos naturais é tão importante quanto falar de alimentação orgânica. Até grandes empresas estão apostando na fermentação espontânea em grande escala. Quem fala mal do movimento prejudica as pessoas, o mundo do vinho e o planeta." | comida |
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] | Levante a mão quem nunca se regalou com uma travessa de macarrão de forno bem cremoso, cheio de ingredientes, gratinado sob uma montanha de queijo ralado. Ou com uma boa salada de gravatinha ou parafuso, misturada com atum em lata, legumes e um tantão de maionese.Neste 25 de outubro, Dia Internacional do Macarrão, é bem provável que uma boa parcela dos brasileiros comemore desse jeito mesmo —sem pasta de grano duro cozida al dente nem molho italiano autêntico.Apresentado às massas pelos imigrantes, o brasileiro não fez cerimônia. Ao longo dos anos, foi transformando os preparos, adaptando ingredientes e inventando formas de consumo que deixam qualquer italiano de cabelo em pé.Chegamos a receitas tão brasileiras que fica difícil enxergar nelas algum sotaque italiano, além da massa em si. É o caso das inúmeras variações de macarrão de forno, que por aqui têm status de comida de festa —em 2021, a ferramenta Google Trends registrou um pico na busca por essas receitas entre 19 e 25 de dezembro.Há também o macarrão montado em assadeira de furo, que mescla ingredientes como requeijão, frango desfiado e presunto picado. Depois de assada, a receita é desenformada como um bolo e recebe até enfeites no topo.Macarrão cozido em panela de pressão? Também temos.No YouTube, vídeos que mostram como é prático juntar a massa com os itens do molho, e cozinhar tudo junto por alguns minutos, acumulam milhares de visualizações –642.800 no caso do vídeo postado pelo influenciador Mohamad Hindi em 2020."Hoje é o dia em que a italianada chora...", ele provoca na abertura do vídeo, antes de começar a preparar a receita que leva linguiça fresca, carne moída e tomate pelado.Interessante notar que várias dessas receitas abrasileiradas fazem parte do repertório de famílias dos próprios imigrantes que vieram da Itália.Bisneta de italiana, a chef Heloísa Bacellar cresceu no interior de São Paulo e tem vivo na memória o sabor do macarrão de forno que a avó preparava. Levava molho branco, presunto e muçarela em tirinhas."Ela montava o macarrão no pirex, cobria de queijo parmesão de pacotinho e assava. Depois, cortava em quadrados e deixava na geladeira. A gente comia frio, no lanche da tarde." Mais Criada na roça paulista, a chef Mara Salles, do restaurante Tordesilhas, também tem sangue italiano. Mas a mãe dela, Encarnação Salles, a Dona Dega, cozinhava a massa à moda caipira."Lembro do macarrão tingido com colorau, que fazia as vezes do tomate. Aos domingos, era servido com frango de panela: a ave no centro da travessa, a massa em volta. Na Semana Santa, o clássico era o macarrão com refogadinho de tomate e sardinha em lata, os peixes arrumados com capricho para que não desmontassem. E toda sopa também levava macarrão", conta a chef, que publicou a receita da sopa de feijão com macarrão ave-maria no livro "Ambiências – Histórias e Receitas do Brasil" (editora DBA).Outra descendente de imigrantes italianos, a paulistana Maria Stella Ferrari cresceu almoçando a massa artesanal preparada pelas tias, em bonitos rituais domingueiros que sempre começavam um dia antes.Na casa dela, porém, a rotina apertada em função dos três filhos exigia receitas mais práticas –como o talharim de forno, cujos fios iam esticadinhos para a assadeira, em camadas, intercalados com dois molhos, branco e de tomate, mais queijo e presunto fatiados."Era o macarrão do desespero, que eu fazia quando não tinha mais o que inventar", brinca.Delegado da Accademia Italiana della Cucina em São Paulo, o italiano Gerardo Landulfo conta que o macarrão de forno também aparece em seu país –mas de outra maneira."É um recurso para aproveitar as sobras, assim como a frittata di pasta, feita com ovos. Mas nunca leva tantos ingredientes. Só no Brasil é comum usar tudo o que tem na geladeira."Os primeiros pastifícios paulistanos, no fim do século 19, colaboraram para que o macarrão deixasse de ser um prato artesanal, que exigia tempo e experiência, e se tornasse um alimento rápido e prático para o dia a dia.São dessa época o Massas Christofani, de 1878; a Fábrica de Massas Adolpho Selmi, de 1887 (ainda em funcionamento, fabricante das marcas Renata e Galo); e o Pastifício Fratelli Secchi, de 1896.A massa de grano duro levou um século para chegar por aqui e permanece restrita a uma pequena parcela dos consumidores –pouco mais de 2%, concentrados especialmente nos grandes centros. No Brasil profundo, o macarrão que impera ainda é o comum, que pode conter ovos ou sêmola e nunca fica al dente.Também resiste o hábito de comprar o espaguete comprido, de coloração mais escura, que vem embalado em papel. Uma das marcas mais conhecidas é a Liane, fundada em 1963, em Presidente Prudente (SP).Os fios têm cerca de 50 cm e não cabem em panela alguma, o que ajuda a explicar outro hábito arraigado entre brasileiros e execrado pelos italianos –o de quebrar o macarrão na hora de cozinhar. Mais "Minha avó costumava fazer um caldo de frango e cozinhar o macarrão dentro dele. Ia quebrando a massa e jogando lá dentro, porque não tinha panela grande em casa", conta Mara Salles.A massa quebradinha é base de uma receita típica do centro-oeste, o macarrão de comitiva, nascido nas tropas de peões do Pantanal.Segundo o chef e pesquisador Paulo Machado, o espaguete quebrado deve ser frito, junto com a carne-seca, antes de ser cozido em água. "São poucos temperos, alho e salsinha. A consistência lembra a de um risoto."De todos os abrasileiramentos impostos ao macarrão, no entanto, o que mais se afasta das tradições italianas certamente é o hábito de colocar a massa no prato, ao lado do feijão com arroz, da carne e da salada.Dos botecos paulistanos aos restaurantes simples do interior, é assim que a massa (quase sempre espaguete cozido) aparece nos PFs – e sai para passear nas marmitas. Nada mais brasileiro. | comida |
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] | Por muito tempo a imitação perfeita do queijo foi o "santo Graal" da gastronomia vegana. Os pioneiros do mercado perseguiram o caminho das raízes, com produtos à base de batata, mandioca e povilho, mas apesar da cremosidade (e do corante e do aromatizante), o resultado só contentava os mais desesperados —não tinham complexidade para fazer jus ao nome emprestado.Mais de uma década depois, o caminho está sendo trilhado pela tradição. Técnicas de fermentação, afinação e bactérias típicas da queijaria animal estão dando vida a dezenas de queijos vegetais à base de castanha de caju, com complexidade de sabor, textura e até terroir próprio.A mestre-queijeira Virgínia Cândida é mineira de Jeceaba, a 120 km da capital Belo Horizonte, e aprendeu a fazer queijo ainda criança, numa família que preservou a tradição de trabalhar o leite para consumo próprio.Quando se tornou vegana, em 2014, resolveu testar as mesmas técnicas com leites vegetais. Ela apurou o método ao longo dos anos, estudou queijos franceses e hoje sua marca, a Viveg, fundada em 2016, produz até 6.000 unidades de queijos veganos por mês, em duas fábricas em Belo Horizonte e uma em Recife.São mais de 20 tipos, de diferentes cepas de fungos e bactérias usadas na queijaria tradicional. Entre eles queijos complexos, como o pérola negra, um queijo duro que descansa por doze meses, o trem azul, um queijo mofado azul, e o cacau em flor, do tipo brie, com uma fina película de cacau na casca florida. Mais No processo da Viveg, a castanha é hidratada e fermentada, depois vira um creme, onde as bactérias são inoculadas. A fermentação ocorre nas primeiras 24 horas, quando os bichos consomem o açúcar e a proteína da massa. A partir daí, começa o processo de cura e afinação, quando o queijo endurece e adquire complexidade, em temperatura controlada por pelo menos 60 dias."O processo é o que vai dar a identidade do queijo, 70% são as bactérias que você usa, e 30% são como ele é curado e afinado", diz Virgínia, que já rodou o país todo ensinando em aulas e oficinas para mais de mil alunos.A mestre-queijeira Michele Souza viajou ao lado de Virgínia e hoje tem sua própria microqueijaria vegana, a Queijuaria, em Campinas (SP). No menu estão 18 tipos de queijos, com foco nos azuis, como o gorgonzola, que passa de 40 a 60 dias mofando, literalmente."Inicialmente eu comprava as culturas de bactérias, mas hoje eu as fabrico. O mofo azul está no ar, então, conforme variam a vegetação, umidade e solo, ele imprime uma característica própria no queijo, um terroir. O meu tem esse terroir de Campinas", conta.Em São Paulo, o stylist e queijeiro vegano Márcio Banfi, da Casa Banfi, faz queijos com uma técnica um pouco diferente dos métodos tradicionais. Em vez de cultura de bactérias de laboratório, ele usa um tipo de probiótico natural chamado rejuvelac. Mais Esse fermento é obtido pela fermentação espontânea de grãos germinados imersos em água. A técnica, de origem romena e popularizada ainda nos anos 1960, é a pioneira dos queijos veganos fermentados.A identidade de cada queijo de Banfi é garantida pela receita do rejuvelac, que usa grãos como feijão-bolinha, lentilha e ervilha. "É a forma de cuidar de cada um que dá essa diferença no sabor, é a temperatura, a troca da água, o tempo de germinação", explica.Ele tem uma produção pequena, que vende pelas redes sociais e em uma feira de rua na região central de São Paulo. Os mais procurados são os queijos meia-cura. "Os queijos veganos envolvem uma curiosidade na experiência. É você comer algo e perceber que é possível chegar nesse sabor com esse processo."Outras sementes e castanhas também são utilizadas como base pelos queijeiros, como a amêndoa e a macadâmia, mas a de caju é a preferida por ser macia e suave, não ter casca (o que facilita o processamento) e estar sempre disponível no mercado.Ou quase sempre. Nos últimos dois anos, a seca castigou os cajueiros brasileiros, que são antigos e produzem pouco por área, e o preço disparou. Segundo o Instituto Caju Brasil, o consumo de castanha cresce cerca de 10% ao ano e os produtores estão tendo que importar para cumprirem seus contratos.Para o engenheiro de alimentos Paulo Grassi, diretor de produção do Galpão Cuccina, que produz queijo vegano em escala industrial, além da dificuldade em garantir o abastecimento de castanhas de qualidade certificada, falta literatura na indústria. Mais "É um mercado novo, tem poucos equipamentos específicos. Para os ingredientes animais há literatura sobre a composição química e os resultados. No mundo vegetal ainda é muita tentativa e erro", diz.Mas, se a falta de castanhas pode ser contornada, a de regulamentação, não. O uso do termo queijo para se referir a fermentados de base vegetal tem irritado a indústria do leite, que cobra há anos uma legislação específica.O Departamento de Inspeção de Produtos de Origem Vegetal da pasta está preparando uma proposta para consulta pública sobre o uso dos termos "plant-based", "queijo", "leite", "carne" e "peixes" vegetais. A expectativa é apresentá-la ainda este ano.Casa Banfiinstagram.com/casa_banfiQueijuaria Veganainstagram.com/queijuaria.veganaVivegwww.viveg.com.brGalpão Cucinawww.galpaocucina.com.br | comida |
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] | Que paulistano ama comer, ninguém duvida. Mas, até semana que vem, os moradores da cidade mais gastronômica do país vão poder fazer uma longa imersão no seu assunto predileto de forma inédita: no cinema.De quarta (5) até 12 de outubro, São Paulo sedia a primeira edição do SP Food Film Festival. Com 48 filmes de 15 países, a programação híbrida e gratuita, parte presencial e parte online, inclui 17 filmes de ficção e 31 documentários, entre produções antigas que a gente adora rever e outras novas em folha.Todas as obras de ficção serão exibidas em sessões presenciais, divididas entre as salas do Espaço Itaú de Cinema, na rua Augusta, e a Cinemateca Brasileira, na Vila Clementino. Basta chegar uma hora antes para retirar o ingresso, que vai dar direito a degustar, no fim do filme, a bebida ou o prato relacionado à história.Vai ter boeuf bourguignon depois de "Julie & Julia" (Estados Unidos, 2009), morangos com chantilly depois de "Vatel – Um Banquete Para o Rei" (França, Reino Unido e Bélgica, 2000) e macarrão à putanesca ao final de "Estômago" (Brasil, 2007).Quem assistir "Tampopo - Os Brutos Também Comem Spaghetti" (Japão, 1985) vai comer lámen ao final da sessão, enquanto aqueles que forem ver "Tomates Verdes Fritos" (EUA, 1991) experimentarão... tomates verdes fritos. Para brindar "Sideways: Entre Umas e Outras" (EUA, 2004), taças de vinho serão servidas depois do filme.Para as crianças que assistirem à animação "Ratatouille" (Estados Unidos, 2007), a degustação de macarrão vem acompanhada de oficina de stop motion.A proposta do evento, porém, não é apenas cultuar a boa comida. Outubro é o Mês da Alimentação, de acordo com a Organização das Nações Unidas para Alimentação e Agricultura (FAO), e a curadoria dos filmes tem como objetivo chamar a atenção para temas relacionados a cultura, meio ambiente e insegurança alimentar."Numa época em que se fala tanto de fome, precisamos levantar essas discussões importantes. Cinco documentários exibidos online serão seguidos de debates sobre agricultura e fome, gênero na cozinha, comida ancestral, desperdício, consumo consciente e economia solidária", pontua André Henrique Graziano, que assina com Daniela Guariba a criação do festival.Enquanto a ficção diverte e abre o apetite, os documentários representam uma oportunidade para conhecer as tradições alimentares do Brasil profundo e sua estreita relação com a comida que chega ao nosso prato —e ainda observar chefs famosos em situações bem diferentes das usuais.O documentário "Claude: Além da Cozinha", dirigido por Ricardo Pompeu, acompanha uma viagem de férias do chef francês Claude Troisgros. De moto, ele percorre lugarejos remotos de quatro estados do Nordeste, ao longo do rio São Francisco. Come e cozinha nas casas enquanto compartilha trechos bem-humorados de sua trajetória.As imagens foram captadas ao longo de 15 dias por um câmera man motociclista, que o acompanhou por 2147 quilômetros. Elas mostram Claude trocando o capacete pelo chapéu de cangaceiro, a moto por um cavalo e preparando carne de bode no vinho."O combinado era não ter muita produção. Bastante coisa aconteceu de forma verdadeira, improvisada", contou o chef à Folha. Mais André Mifano, chef do restaurante Donna e apresentador do programa "Sabor em Jogo" (GNT), também saiu da cozinha para registrar uma viagem em documentário. "Em Busca da Essência na Cozinha", dirigido por André Barmak, acompanha a temporada que ele passou na Enseada da Baleia, comunidade caiçara da Ilha do Cardoso, litoral sul paulista.Ao longo de dois meses, em 2019, Mifano teve a chance de participar da pesca de cerco, cortar cana para preparar rapadura e desossar um porco para fazer carne na lata. "Gosto de ter contato com o mundo da comida que não é o mundo da gastronomia. Voltei mais humilde, admirando essas pessoas ainda mais", diz o chef.Produzido em 2014, o documentário "Agricultura Tamanho Família", de Silvio Tendler, não poderia ser mais atual —oito anos atrás, o cineasta já defendia que o agronegócio não é mais importante do que a agricultura familiar para garantir a segurança alimentar do brasileiro."Continuamos equivocadamente batendo na mesma tecla ao achar que o agro produz o alimento no Brasil. Não sou preconceituoso, os dois movimentos devem conviver, mas o agro produz em alta escala para exportação. Quem bota comida na nossa mesa é o pequeno agricultor."Bem mais recente, o documentário "Agricultura Guarani", de Fellipe Abreu e Patrícia Moll, foi produzido em 2022 e conta a história dos indígenas da etnia Guarani. No extremo sul da cidade de São Paulo, nas franjas da maior metrópole brasileira, eles conseguiram recuperar terras degradadas pela monocultura do eucalipto através do cultivo de mais de 200 variedades de vegetais.Da mesma dupla, "Dois Riachões: Cacau e Liberdade" mostra como moradores do assentamento no sul da Bahia escaparam do trabalho análogo à escravidão e lançaram a própria marca de chocolate.De 2021, o curta já conquistou nove prêmios em festivais do Brasil, Itália e Argentina.A temática social também serve de pano de fundo para o documentário "A Grande Ceia Quilombola" (Brasil, 2017), de Ana Stela Cunha e Rodrigo Sena.Depois de morar por quase dois anos no Quilombo de Damásio, no Maranhão, Ana Stela assustou-se quando os alimentos industrializados começaram a ameaçar as tradições do quilombo."Eles tinham memórias sobre comidas que já não comiam, e de coisas que já não plantavam, porque a branquitude se impôs em várias ocasiões ao longo da história do quilombo", diz."Certa vez, padres italianos estimularam a plantação de berinjelas como forma de obter renda, mas ao final os quilombolas não sabiam o que fazer com tanta berinjela. Era um alimento que não dizia nada para eles. Comida tem que envolver afeto e memória." | comida |
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] | A chef paranaense Manoella Buffara fez sua Curitiba natal ganhar atenção na gastronomia nacional desde que abriu seu restaurante, o Manu, em 2011. Agora, coloca sua cidade —e sua cozinha criativa— no foco de toda a América Latina.Recém-eleita a melhor chef mulher do continente, segundo a premiação do Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants, Manu, como é conhecida, está prestes a espalhar seu nome também pelo mundo.De presenças em eventos e simpósios no mundo todo a um menu para um hotel de luxo nas Maldivas, ela é a chef brasileira com maior representatividade internacional na atualidade.A abertura de um novo restaurante em Nova York (o Ella deve ser inaugurado no segundo semestre de 2023) e o lançamento de um livro sobre seu restaurante pela famosa editora Phaidon são prova dessa projeção global."Há muito, muito trabalho por trás disso tudo", afirma a chef. "São longas horas em pé tentando achar o ponto certo de cada cozimento", garante.Manu tem duas filhas, Helena e Maria, e diz querer mostrar a elas que é possível chegar a posições de destaque.A chef diz que há um descompasso no reconhecimento de chefs mulheres. "Não devia fazer diferença se sou mulher ou homem", afirma. E garante que se posicionar no mercado é, também, uma forma de garantir maior equilíbrio. "Trabalho para que isso deixe de ser um assunto".Leia abaixo a entrevista que a chef concedeu para a Folha.Como é ser reconhecida como a melhor chef mulher da América Latina? Esse prêmio é, para mim, uma janela para falarmos da importância de conhecer o alimento local, buscar ingredientes frescos, de qualidade, que cresçam perto de onde você vive. Meu trabalho é sobre isso, e ganhar esse prêmio é poder usar esse megafone para chamar a atenção para a qualidade do que temos perto de nossa casa, da maneira como devemos ver e cuidar do nosso entorno.Fico muito feliz de receber esse prêmio e que minhas filhas e todas as meninas e mulheres vejam que é possível chegar a uma posição de destaque. Ganhei esse palco dos 50 Best e quero usá-lo para ser exemplo para muitas mulheres, meninas e toda sociedade, de que através da alimentação podemos mudar uma nação.Ganhar o prêmio de melhor chef mulher tem um valor diferente no mundo da cozinha em que as oportunidades ainda não são tão iguais? Sei que as oportunidades não são tão iguais, mas em muitas outras áreas também sofremos com isso. Então, para eu chegar aqui é fruto de muito trabalho, perseverança, longas horas em pé tentando achar o ponto certo de cada cozimento. Não acho que o esforço, a busca pelo melhor, é algo ligado a um gênero.Não devia fazer diferença se sou mulher ou homem. Sim, há um descompasso no reconhecimento de chefs mulheres, mas a nós cabe fazer nosso trabalho, dar o nosso melhor. Quem criou essa confusão que trate de acertar esses ponteiros.Eu seguirei fazendo o meu melhor e torcendo para que haja mais equilíbrio na premiação de chefs mulheres e homens, e que isso deixe de ser um assunto.Acredita que a América Latina está ganhando representatividade perante a gastronomia mundial? Claro! Cada vez mais ganhamos mais representatividade no mundo, aumentamos o interesse por nossos produtos, por nossos chefs. Acredito que temos um futuro incrível pela frente. Seja em Nova York ou nas Maldivas, estamos indo para mostrar nossa cultura e nossa comida.Quero contar minha história através do meu trabalho. Muitos chefs da América Latina já estão abrindo suas portas na Europa. Estados Unidos e Ásia também e isso é ótimo. Mais Como fazer a gastronomia latino-americana ganhar mais valor?Através das nossas pessoas, através de cada chef e cozinheira que temos no nosso continente, que é tão rico. Temos ainda muito o que mostrar e fazer, não apenas com a gastronomia, mas também com o turismo, com arte e com cultura, porque tudo isso está intrinsecamente ligado à alimentaçãoComo vê a importância para a cozinha brasileira de ganhar um prêmio como esse? Tenho certeza de que este prêmio é para todos os brasileiros que, assim como eu, acreditam no nosso país, não só pela gastronomia que temos, mas por tudo o que ela envolve. Acredito muito no Brasil, no seu potencial e todos os cozinheiros, cozinheiras, produtores, nossos produtos. Somos maiores juntos.Temos que voar e, para fazer esse voo ser perfeito, precisamos de muitas andorinhas porque, como dizem, uma só faz verão. | comida |
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] | Já há mais de um século a marca Concha y Toro divulga que um de seus rótulos mais populares no Brasil, o Casillero del Diablo, tem como parte de sua história uma lenda envolvendo um produtor, uma reserva especial de garrafas e uma criatura mítica —o diabo em "pessoa".Depois de alguns furtos em sua adega, um chileno (e fundador da Concha y Toro) teria espalhado pela cidadezinha em que morava que o cramulhão habitava sua casa. Diz-se que o problema cessou quase imediatamente.Esta narrativa agora conduz um evento que a vinícola chilena promove em São Paulo no sábado (24) e domingo (25). A Casillero Experience é definida pelos organizadores como uma "imersão no mundo do vinho e na lenda da marca".Na programação, o visitante terá acesso a uma harmonização dos vinhos com queijos, bruschetta e charcutaria conduzida pela sommelière Andreia Berthault. Tudo emoldurado pela tal história de 130 anos atrás.O Brasil é o país com maior número de visitante à Vinícola Concha y Toro no Chile, de acordo com Pietro Capuzzi, diretor de trade e marketing da marca. Para agradar aos amantes da produtora, uma pop-up store, o Descorcha Corner, vai vender produtos promocionais da Concha y Toro, além de toda a linha Casillero del Diablo.Também fazem parte da programação shows do cantor Rael e da banda de jazz Black Albino, além de uma palestra do ator Douglas Silva. Mais | comida |
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] | À frente do restaurante Manu, em Curitiba, a chef Manoella "Manu" Buffara, foi nomeada nesta terça (20) a melhor chef mulher da América Latina em 2022, como parte dos Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants.Ela receberá a homenagem no dia 15 de novembro, em Mérida, Yucatán, durante a cerimônia de entrega de prêmios presenciais dos Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants.Até lá, outros dois prêmios também já serão anunciados.Em declaração à organização do evento, Manu Buffara comentou a escolha."Ser reconhecida não só pela minha comida, mas também pela minha filosofia, é uma honra, e tenho orgulho de partilhar com a minha família e toda a equipe do Manu. Este é apenas o começo para nós, pretendemos usar esta plataforma e o poder das vozes femininas para elevar Curitiba no palco mundial e mostrar em primeira mão como o envolvimento da comunidade em torno da comida pode levar a uma melhor qualidade de vida para todos", disse.Antes de abrir o Manu, em 2011, Manoella Buffara havia passado pelo Noma, em Copenhague, e pelo Alinea, em Chicago. Atualmente, ela é responsável pelo primeiro restaurante exclusivo de menus de degustação no Brasil com uma chef feminina no comando.Desde o lançamento dos Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants em 2013, a categoria Melhor Chef Mulher da América Latina teve vencedoras como Narda Lepes, Pía León, Leonor Espinosa e Helena Rizzo.Em julho passado, foram anunciados os 50 melhores restaurantes do mundo, no 50 Best de 2022, em cerimônia realizada em Londres. O Brasil esteve representado com duas casas: A Casa do Porco, em São Paulo, ficou na 7ª posição, e o Oteque, no Rio de Janeiro, que entrou pela primeira vez na lista, em 47º.O restaurante paulistano especializado em porco e localizado no centro da cidade foi o único brasileiro na lista do ano passado, chegando à 17ª posição."Para o Brasil, é muito importante ter mais representantes na lista. Temos uma gastronomia muito rica que o mundo precisa conhecer", afirmou na ocasião Jefferson Rueda, d’A Casa do Porco. Mais | comida |
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] | Nos guias de restaurantes paulistanos, a seção de cozinha judaica nunca foi das mais extensas e andava meio parada no tempo. Não deixa de ser um contrassenso, considerando que a comunidade é numerosa —65 mil judeus vivem na capital paulista, segundo a Federação Israelita do Estado de São Paulo.Aos poucos, porém, suas ricas tradições culinárias estão voltando a ser notícia, a começar pela festejada reabertura da Adi Shoshi Delishop, agora com outro nome na tabuleta: Shoshana Delishop.O último restaurante de cozinha judaica do Bom Retiro, inaugurado em 1991 pelo casal Adi e Shoshana Baruch, estava prestes a encerrar as atividades quando foi comprado por um grupo de clientes, inconformados com o fechamento.Reaberto oficialmente em 1º de setembro, agora tem menu assinado pela chef e pesquisadora Clarice Reichstul, que usou como base as receitas da fundadora. No dia a dia, Graziela Tavares, sócia do Bar Sabiá, na Vila Madalena, chefia a cozinha.Andrea Kaufmann, que já comandou o AK Delicatessen e o AK Vila, também está de volta. Ela acaba de chegar de Portugal e assina o novo menu judaico da Casa Manioca, braço de eventos do Grupo Maní. São pratos para levar, que podem ser encomendados até esta terça (20), para entrega no Rosh Hashaná, o Ano Novo judaico, entre 25 e 27 de setembro.A Z Deli Delicatessen, em funcionamento desde 1981 na Alameda Lorena, também está em processo de renovação —herdeiro do restaurante fundado por sua avó, Rosa, e a tia-avó, Zenaide, Julio Raw planeja apresentar uma versão rejuvenescida da casa até o fim do ano.A ideia é manter o DNA ousado da família. "Na época em que os restaurantes se concentravam no Bom Retiro, elas furaram a bolha da comunidade. Abriram a casa no Jardim Paulista e apresentaram essa culinária a quem não é judeu."Shoshana, Andrea e a família Raw ficaram famosas pelas receitas da cozinha ashkenazim, dos judeus que se estabeleceram na Europa Central e Oriental. São pratos que o paulistano associa mais facilmente à cozinha judaica, como o guefilte fish (bolinho de peixe), os varenikes (raviólis de batata) e kneidlach (sopa de bolinhos de farinha de matzá). Mais Mas há uma outra faceta da culinária judaica, a sefaradi, que também anda se espalhando pela cidade. É ela que aparece nos menus de estabelecimentos jovens inaugurados de 2021 para cá, como Shuk e Bubbeleh Delishop —e ainda demanda muita explicação à clientela, que vê pastas como hommus, ou pratos à base de grãos e carne de cordeiro, e os liga imediatamente à culinária árabe.Tradicionalmente, essas duas cozinhas judaicas não se misturavam —até mesmo casamentos entre os dois grupos eram proibidos. Para entender a razão de tamanhas diferenças à mesa, é fundamental conhecer a origem de cada uma delas."Vindos de uma região fria, os ashkenazim se utilizavam de gordura de galinha, cebola, alho, repolho, cenoura, beterraba e batata, além de peixes defumados e salgados, como a carpa e o arenque", explica Marcia Algranti, autora de "Cozinha Judaica – 5.000 Anos de Histórias e Gastronomia" (Record).Raiz forte, picles e pepinos em conserva acompanham várias preparações, emenda Algranti. Os sabores são agridoces, pela combinação de vinagre, suco de limão, sal e açúcar (ou mel).Já os sefaradis se dispersaram por todo o Mediterrâneo, em regiões férteis de clima ameno, onde frutas, ervas, grãos e especiarias em abundância deram origem a "uma das mais saborosas e características cozinhas do mundo, muito mais variada do que a dos judeus que enfrentavam rigorosos invernos do Leste da Europa", segundo a autora.Não por acaso, são receitas que também aparecem na culinária sírio-libanesa, que tanto se popularizou em São Paulo —daí a confusão.Sócios no Shuk, Suzana Goldfarb, de família judaica, e Mauro Brosso, de ascendência síria, já se acostumaram a dar aulas à clientela."Até os judeus que vivem aqui conhecem pouco sobre essa cozinha judaica do Oriente Médio, já que as comunidades que migraram para Brasil e Argentina vieram basicamente do leste europeu", diz Mauro.Filha de um judeu russo que sobreviveu ao holocausto, Suzana cresceu comendo comida ashkenazim. Foi só na adolescência, quando viveu em Israel, que ela conheceu a outra faceta da cozinha judaica. "Essas receitas puxadas para o Oriente Médio eram o que a gente encontrava na comida de rua. E o que trouxemos para o Shuk."Mesma origem tem a cozinha da Bubbeleh Delishop. Netos de judeus que trocaram Jerusalém pela Grécia antes de chegar ao Brasil, os irmãos Marcelo e Shemuel Shoel também viveram em Israel na adolescência. Lá, aprenderam a comer sanduíches como shawarma e arais, especialidades da casa.Entre as novas gerações de cozinheiros judeus, o apego às tradições ganha outro significado. Longe de ser uma camisa de força, reverencia as origens enquanto flerta com novas técnicas e toques autorais.No menu de Rosh Hashaná da Casa Manioca, pratos da cozinha ashkenazim convivem em paz com o receituário sefaradi, sob toques pessoais de Andrea Kaufmann. Tem pastrami de língua e haddock defumado, e também hommus e magret de pato com romã."Meu guefilte fish leva clara em neve, para ficar fofinho, e peixe de mar além da carpa, porque peixes de rio têm sabor muito terroso. Sei que sou execrada pelas avós judias", ela acha graça. "Um dia, ainda faço uma camiseta com a frase ‘Não Sou Sua Avó’."Na Shoshana Delishop, clássicos da fundadora continuam lá, como a língua da Shoshi, servida com varenikes e salada. Mas Clarice Reichstul também promoveu mudanças, sabendo que enfrentaria resistência dos mais conservadores. "Tenho apego à minha história, mas estou no Brasil de 2022. Não precisamos ficar parados no tempo, posso ter um olhar mais contemporâneo", pondera.A própria Shoshana, que continua morando em cima do restaurante e participou como conselheira do processo de renovação do menu, confessa que nunca foi presa demais às tradições —talvez por isso sua casa tenha conquistado tantos clientes fora da comunidade. Mais "Sempre dominei as duas cozinhas, a ashkenazim e a sefaradi, porque o paulistano gosta. Servia guefilte fish e também berinjela recheada com ricota."O processo de renovação da cozinha judaica paulistana mantém o respeito às restrições mais severas: carne suína não passa perto, carne e leite jamais se misturam. Mas se distancia da formalidade quando o assunto é atendimento.Na nova Shoshana Delishop, as noites de sexta-feira foram reservadas à happy hour, ironicamente batizada de Boteco do Shabat, com decoração e comidinhas inspirados no ritual judaico. Segundo Benjamin Seroussi, novo sócio do lugar, judeus e não judeus de várias partes da cidade têm se encontrado lá."Ainda é um experimento, o cardápio está se desenhando com roll-mops [rolinho de arenque e picles], canapé de língua, guefilte fish frito... Falta roteirizar melhor a noite para trazer um pouco mais de solenidade, de música, de festa, mas chegamos lá."Julio Raw também promete muita novidade na nova encarnação da Z Deli. "Nunca vou deixar de servir comida judaica e quero reforçar a cara de deli antiga, mas planejo passar a abrir à noite e explorar até o café da manhã", anuncia. "Estou no passo de rejuvenescer, achando que tudo é possível."Bubbeleh DelishopR. Francisco Leitão, 77, Pinheiros.Casa Maniocawww.maniocapralevar.com.brShoshana DelishopR. Correia de Melo, 206, Bom Retiro.ShukR. Ferreira de Araújo, 385, Pinheiros.Z Deli DelicatessenAl. Lorena, 1689, Jardim Paulista. | comida |
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] | "E queijo de ovelha existe? Desde quando ovelha dá leite?". Essas são algumas das perguntas que o produtor Paulo Rezende, proprietário da Fazenda Atalaia, escuta dos visitantes que ficam sabendo sobre seus novos produtos.Fabricante de queijos de vaca e de cabra, entre eles o tulha, medalha de ouro no World Cheese Awards de San Sebastián, na Espanha, Paulo está lançando seus primeiros queijos de ovelha.Cremosos, maturados por 21 dias, saem com casca lavada ou com mofo branco e devem chegar ao mercado dentro de 90 dias.Quem visita a fazenda, localizada em Amparo (SP), já consegue degustar as novidades e ver os animais. "Muita gente nunca viu uma ovelha de perto, mas todos demonstram vontade de provar os queijos", diz o produtor.Paulo Rezende não está sozinho. Queijeiros brasileiros, e paulistas em particular, estão finalmente apostando no potencial dos queijos de ovelha.Trata-se de um mercado que ainda está engatinhando no país. De acordo com o Guia do Queijo, elaborado em 2021 pelo queijista Fernando Oliveira, os queijos de ovelha respondem por apenas 2% da produção nacional.Mas eles têm tudo para ganhar expressão, como já acontece na Europa —são à base de leite de ovelha os famosos pecorino italiano, feta grego, manchego espanhol e Serra da Estrela português."O consumidor ainda tem resistência, o que atribuo à falta de opções. Temos poucos produtos para oferecer", avalia o queijista Falco Bonfadini, proprietário da loja Galeria do Queijo, na Vila da Saúde.Entre as novidades que começam a chegar ao mercado estão os queijos da Herdade Duas Serras, lançados em março de 2022 pelo casal Henrique Sutto e Ana Claudia Paranhos.Na propriedade, localizada em São Bento do Sapucaí (SP), eles montaram uma cabanha de primeiro mundo, que já conquistou o Selo de Inspeção Federal (SIF), fato raro entre pequenos produtores artesanais.Os 180 animais são da raça leiteira lacaune, de origem francesa. Inspirados pelas famílias portuguesas, Henrique e Ana Claudia investem em queijos maturados entre seis meses e um ano, que repousam em uma cave de pedra subterrânea, com umidade e temperatura controladas. Mais No e-commerce próprio, que começa a funcionar em outubro, a peça com cerca de 500 gramas vai sair por R$ 110."As ovelhas se alimentam livremente das frutas do pomar, por isso algumas pessoas já sentiram notas frutadas nos queijos", diz Henrique, que promete entregas em todo o país.Presidente da Associação Brasileira de Criadores de Ovinos Leiteiros (Abcol), Martha Amaral reivindica o posto de pioneira entre os produtores paulistas —foi em 2015 que ela lançou os queijos de ovelha Gran Sierra.Dona de um sítio em Cunha (SP), Martha dispõe de apenas um ajudante para ordenar as ovelhas e transformar os 50 litros de leite diários em quatro tipos de queijos, além de doce de leite. O Cangalha matura por até 180 dias, mas há também a versão fresca, campeã de vendas."A divulgação é um trabalho de formiguinha, por isso participo de tantos eventos. A maioria do público não conhece e confunde com o queijo de cabra", diz Martha.O próximo compromisso de sua agenda é o Mundial do Queijo do Brasil, que acontece esta semana em São Paulo. Além da competição que vai eleger os melhores queijos do país, entre 1.200 produtos inscritos, o evento terá uma feira aberta ao público, com entrada gratuita.Outro produtor paulista que já garantiu presença é Ricardo Rettmann, de Porto Feliz (SP), que fundou a Queijaria Rima em 2017. Atualmente, ele é o maior do estado —seu rebanho de 800 animais rende uma produção diária de 200 litros de leite.Da cave da Rima, saem queijos como o Araritaguaba, maturado por um ano —no e-commerce da marca, o pedaço com 200 gramas custa R$ 62,90. Mas há outros bem frescos.Sua coalhada seca de ovelha, por exemplo, foi o produto escolhido para integrar dois pratos do Roteiro Gastronômico, que faz parte do Mundial do Queijo do Brasil: de 15 a 25 de setembro, 15 estabelecimentos da capital vão servir receitas exclusivas com queijos brasileiros.No Shuk Falafel & Kebabs, a coalhada será servida com tomatinho confit, azeite Olibi e pão de zátar (R$ 32). Na Le Jazz Brasserie de Pinheiros, acompanha a kafta de cordeiro com pistache e cuscuz marroquino (R$ 45)."Quando começamos, fazer queijo de ovelha era uma coisa de outro mundo. Felizmente a coisa evoluiu muito, não estamos mais sozinhos no barco", diz Ricardo.Ele tem razão. O time só faz crescer e, em breve, será ainda maior —três novos produtores paulistas estão em fase de certificação sanitária e planejam colocar seus queijos de ovelha no mercado até o ano que vem.Em Joaquim Egídio, distrito de Campinas (SP), o casal de engenheiros Genivaldo Pimenta e Daniele Santos ainda não vende seus queijos, mas acaba de abrir a Cabanha Capestre 53 à visitação.Junto com as filhas Marina, que é bióloga, e Elena, que é química, eles recebem turistas interessados em conhecer o rebanho de 48 animais e fazer piqueniques com os produtos da casa, do suave Boursin aos longamente maturados."Com leite de ovelha, todo queijo que a gente planeja fazer fica maravilhoso", derrete-se Genivaldo, que já viveu na Espanha e, lá, aprendeu a apreciar a iguaria. "Temos dos leves e frescos, bons para o café da manhã e a sobremesa, aos mais intensos."Também está em vias de certificação a Cabanha Bocaina, em Cunha, que pertence ao casal Virgílio Paiva e Fernando Marques. Na propriedade que adquiriram em 2018, eles mantêm 25 ovelhas e já fazem queijos e doce de leite para consumo próprio, enquanto o Selo de Inspeção Municipal não sai."O primeiro a ser lançado será o tipo feta", anuncia Virgílio, de olho nos consumidores do Vale do Paraíba e de Paraty.O industrial Marcio Tosi, proprietário da Langhi & Tosi, em Cabreúva, considera sua produção de queijos de ovelha um hobby. "Na pandemia, preso no sítio, fiquei doido vendo o capim crescendo e inventei a queijaria", confessa. Mais Mas ele sabe que não vai resistir —tem pronto o plano para abrir a propriedade a visitantes e já deu entrada na papelada para obter a certificação estadual, para que mais gente conheça sua produção."Estou fazendo um tipo manchego, com três meses de maturação, um tipo pecorino, que ainda não está pronto, um de casca lavada com cerveja preta e um boursin", enumera.Para o veterano Ricardo Rettman, a entrada de novos produtores no segmento é motivo de festa."Não considero os outros queijeiros como concorrentes. É muito legal que surjam outros produtores, para que o público tenha cada vez mais acesso ao queijo de ovelha."Mundial do Queijo do BrasilDe 15 a 18 de setembro. Teatro B32 (Av. Brigadeiro Faria Lima, 3.732, Itaim Bibi, São Paulo). Informações em mundialdoqueijodobrasil.com A QueijariaR. Aspicuelta, 35, Vila Madalena, loja online aqueijariavirtual.com.br.Galeria do QueijoHortifruti Imigrantes (Av. Professor Abraão de Morais, 1.500, box 6, Vila da Saúde). Instagram @galeriadoqueijo.Herdade Duas Serras herdadeduasserras.com.br (vendas online a partir de outubro).Queijaria Rimaqueijariarima.com.br Cabanha Campestre 53@cabanhacampestre53. Agendamento pelo telefone (19) 99761-1706.Fazenda Atalaiafazendaatalaiaamparo.com.br. Agendamento pelo telefone (19) 99750-8129. | comida |
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] | Melindrosos, difíceis de fazer e cheios de segredinhos, os doces caramelados, quem diria, estão de volta. Uma das responsáveis pelo "revival" é Tati Barbi, 29, que abriu uma doceria especializada na receita, em junho de 2021, no bairro do Tatuapé.Bem antes, porém, suas balas de coco e leite condensado, envoltas em casquinha quebradiça e brilhante, já vinham fazendo sucesso —foi em 2013 que ela resgatou a receita de família para complementar a renda."Minha mãe também fazia esses doces para vender. No começo, eu não gostava e nem pensava em empreender. Meu sonho era trabalhar em banco ou multinacional, mas o negócio foi crescendo no boca a boca", conta a doceira, que cobra de R$ 7,50 a R$ 8,50 por unidade, dependendo do sabor.Do fogão doméstico, Tati pulou para uma cozinha profissional, nos fundos da loja, onde já trabalham 15 pessoas. Em datas especiais, a produção chega a 3.000 balas por dia. "É uma receita complicada, já tenho algumas cicatrizes nas mãos", revela.A caramelização já teve seu período de ouro nas festas paulistanas. Na década de 1960, era chique servir balas de ovos com casquinha de caramelo."Junto com os camafeus de nozes, eram os doces mais finos da época. Nos casamentos, a moda era colocá-los em bandejinhas de prata de vários andares, no centro de cada mesa. Oferecer brigadeiros não era elegante, eles ficavam restritos às festinhas infantis", lembra Silvia Chuairi, filha caçula da doceira Mariza Chuairi, que fundou a Mariza Doces em 1963.A receita foi eternizada no primeiro caderno publicado pelo açúcar União, em 1960. Enviada por uma certa Maria Thereza Speers Hayden, moradora de Santos, tinha o nome de Balas de Ovos Dona Raquel e foi uma das vencedoras do concurso de receitas que a indústria promoveu, em 1958.Na lista de ingredientes, nada de leite condensado: só entravam água, muitas gemas, bastante açúcar, um tiquinho de manteiga e essência de baunilha para perfumar. E é dessa forma que ainda são produzidas as balas da paulistana Sabor Caramelado. Mais Da cozinha localizada no Ipiranga, saem até 5.000 balas por semana. À frente da produção está Marcos Henrique Martins, 51, que herdou a tradição do pai, o gaúcho Luiz Lopes Martins."Nos anos 1960, ele e meu tio vendiam as balas de porta em porta e fizeram uma clientela enorme em escritórios e salões de cabeleireiro. Meu pai chegou a vender doces para festas da diretoria do Palestra Itália, virou tradição na sociedade paulistana. Todo mundo que faz bala de ovos caramelada, hoje em dia, copia os dois", diz.Nas entregas para festas, Marcos cobra R$ 280 pelo cento, mas o preço chega a R$ 350 no caso dos sabores pistache, avelã e castanha-do-pará. Também é possível encomendar as balas pelo iFood, pagando R$ 7,50 pela unidade.Na opinião da herdeira da Mariza Doces, o alto grau de dificuldade para executar a caramelização explica por que esses doces praticamente sumiram por tanto tempo.Para começar, a calda de açúcar, que endurece e se transforma na película brilhante e quebradiça, exige um ponto exato de caramelização. "Tem que ser muito especialista para o caramelo não derreter depois de pronto, ou não ficar puxa-puxa, grudando nos dentes", diz Silvia.Também é complicado produzir as balas ou doces caramelados em escala, já que as bolotas devem ser cuidadosamente mergulhadas uma a uma no caramelo. Nessa etapa, cada doceiro tem sua técnica.Tati Barbi joga as balas na calda e as resgata com um garfo, mas há quem prefira usar um palito –e haja paciência para espetar o doce, mergulhá-lo devagarzinho no caramelo, remover o palito e esperar endurecer.Doces caramelados não podem enfrentar altas temperaturas porque derretem, e não devem ser congelados. Há controvérsia sobre a geladeira: para a Sabor Caramelado, o frio tira o brilho da película caramelada; já Tati Barbi precisa do frio para manter a qualidade do doce.Por conta da dedicação e delicadeza do trabalho, a equipe da Sabor Caramelado —quatro membros da família e um ajudante— inicia o expediente às 4h30 da madrugada."Meu pai criou a tradição de vender balas carameladas no mesmo dia. Às 11h da manhã, boa parte das entregas já saiu para a rua", conta Marcos.Hoje, muitos dos doces caramelados levam leite condensado —equivalem a brigadeiros passados no caramelo. Em sua loja, Tati Barbi vende 20 sabores, de nozes a romeu e julieta. Entre as seis versões produzidas pela Sabor Caramelado, tem até de brigadeiro cor de rosa (conhecido como bicho de pé).A chef Andrea Kaufmann, que ensina a técnica em um curso da plataforma online Eduk, revela dois segredinhos. "Se acrescentar glucose de milho à calda de açúcar, o caramelo não derrete depois. E o brigadeiro deve ficar mais durinho. Funciona para qualquer docinho de leite condensado."Até a maçã do amor, outro hit retrô, anda exibindo sua casquinha caramelada por aí —fez tanto sucesso na temporada das festas juninas que Tati Barbi manteve o doce em caráter definitivo, a R$ 10,90 a unidade. Agora, é festa o ano inteiro.Tati Barbi Balas Caramelizadas R. Serra de Juréa, 116, Tatuapé, Tel. (11) 98428-5142. Das 10h às 18h.Sabor Caramelado Tel. (11)2272-2463 ou WhatsApp (11) 99219-6517. | comida |
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] | Das bordas do restaurante peruano Mil, no Vale Sagrado andino, avista-se um parque arqueológico singular, à semelhança de um coliseu. Moray é um complexo construído pelas civilizações pré-inca, nas cercanias de Cusco, a 3.500 metros de altitude.O espaço se consolidou como um antigo centro de experimentação agrícola em função de sua amplitude térmica, em terraços circulares, e serve de inspiração ao Mil, liderado pelo casal de chefs reconhecido mundialmente, Pía Léon e Virgilio Martínez.Eles também estão à frente, junto da médica Malena Martínez, do Central —número um da América Latina e segundo melhor do mundo pelo ranking do 50 Best Restaurants— e do Kjolle.No Mil, está em construção uma cozinha de altura, ultralocal. Seus pratos fazem uso de ervas, tubérculos e carnes somente próprios da região.Com isso, a cada prato e a cada bebida o restaurante escava uma história ancestral dos ingredientes e de suas respectivas relações com antigas comunidades vizinhas —a equipe convive com elas e estabelece uma relação participativa, mutuamente benéfica.A ideia de interpretar o passado no presente e, a um só tempo, conceber uma visão de futuro, sobretudo acerca das comunidades locais envolvidas no projeto, está enraizada no Mil.Trata-se da primeira base regional fora de Lima da Mater, centro nervoso de todos os restaurantes de Pía e Virgilio. O local funciona como um instituto de pesquisa interdisciplinar, no qual convivem biólogos, agrônomos, neurocientistas, linguistas, cozinheiros, e que cataloga espécies botânicas provenientes das zonas de vida do Peru, na tentativa de mapear a grandeza do país.O próprio Mil, um lugar único no mundo, afastado de polos urbanos, funciona como um centro de investigação, interpretação e desenvolvimento."É um projeto que começou com muitas ilusões e medo. Não sabíamos o que íamos encontrar", diz Pía, sobre a empreitada que a colocou em contato com ingredientes desconhecidos e com a riqueza da biodiversidade andina.Na cozinha, todos os insumos pertencem ao ecossistema de altura e são descobertos a partir da relação com as comunidades locais –e da sabedoria de seus antigos usos. A inovação, paradoxalmente, nasce relacionada à terra, à agricultura e às origens. Mais No terreno do restaurante, cuja arquitetura faz com que a casa se misture à natureza, são cultivados alguns produtos orgânicos, como quinoas, ervas e as batatas, que ficam expostas ao sol para concentrar os açúcares.O solo calcário é de manejo complexo —é difícil a absorção de nutrientes, e a água, por outro lado, é sugada muito rapidamente."Aqui, fazemos duas coisas muito importantes: uma é introduzir produtos que não são da área, e testar o que cresce. A outra é reintroduzir produtos que se perderam ao longo do tempo", explica Maria Fernanda Viviano, responsável pela imersão botânica feita com turistas pela chácara.São plantios feitos em conjunto com as comunidades locais, que detêm o conhecimento, dos quais as colheitas são divididas meio a meio."Tentamos replicar esse consumo nas comunidades para que elas possam melhorar a alimentação", diz o agrônomo do Mil, Cristian Granda.A tendência é optarem por variedades não nativas, enxertadas em laboratório, porque produzem mais e são maiores. Com o dinheiro da venda, é comum a troca por comida ultraprocessada.Manuel Contreras, filho e neto de botânicos e responsável por todos os experimentos líquidos de Mil, acredita que o conhecimento ancestral, quando levado ao laboratório, é atestado. Mais Com respeito a esse repertório, ele faz uma alquimia no bar. São drinques fermentados, destilados, infusionados, que carregam folhas, ervas, flores silvestres e raízes, que lhes dão uma variedade sensorial imensa.Um mesmo ingrediente pode ser interpretado de outra maneira em um prato. São receitas como as diferentes batatas, de cores e de texturas alucinantes —púrpuras, rosadas, amareladas— servidas em louças artesanais, ou em pedras esculpidas a serem compartilhadas ao centro da mesa, como uma experiência comunitária."Há muitos competentes ao redor de uma experiência em Mil, testes em campo e nas nossas relações. Todos os dias nos desafiamos a olhar atentamente ao nosso território", diz Malena Martínez."Obviamente o Peru tem muitos destinos turísticos, como Machu Pichu e centros arqueológicos, mas a gastronomia é muito forte", diz Virgilio Martínez. "É a nossa maior forma de nos relacionar com o turista, é a nossa maior expressão cultural."A jornalista viajou a convite do restaurante Kjolle. | comida |