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sequence | sentence
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] | A história de Lisiane Arouca tem um ingrediente curioso: ela nasceu na cidade de Amargosa, a três horas de Salvador, mas se especializou em doces.No último dia do Festival Fartura, evento do qual a Folha é parceira, ela reuniu uma plateia de 20 pessoas para divulgar sua confeitaria, uma versão legítima do Brasil, sem muito açúcar e rica em ingredientes locais.“Ela traz preparações populares para o restaurante e isso é genial”, diz a visitante Clara Abud, administradora de empresas, depois de provar o mugunzá de caramelo com farofa de tapioca com licuri feito pela chef.Lisiane é dona do Origem e do Ori, em Salvador, restaurantes que apresentam o resultado de expedições que ela e o marido, o chef Fabrício Lemos, fazem por toda a Bahia em busca de ingredientes regionais. Um deles é o licuri, coquinho que nasce em uma palmeira encontrada no sertão nordestino, e que Lisiane usa para fazer uma farofa crocante que cobre sua versão de mugunzá. Chamado de canjica no sudeste do país, o mugunzá é popular no interior baiano e muito consumido nas festas de São João. A castanha de licuri, ela conta, costumava ser facilmente encontrada em feiras baianas, vendida em cordões. “Como, então, de uma hora para outra as pessoas já não se lembram mais dele?”, questiona. O ingrediente usado pela chef vem de uma cooperativa de Capim Grosso, no sertão baiano, região onde acontece um festival dedicado ao licuri —e que tem até campeonato de quebra de coquinho. Além da castanha, Lisiane trabalha outros sabores tradicionais da Bahia nas receitas que serve nos seus restaurantes, a exemplo do brigadeiro de rapadura com creme inglês de cajá. “Temos uma infinidade de ingredientes e sabores que estão entrando em desuso, mas que são parte da nossa cultura”, diz Lisiane. “No restaurante, as pessoas ficam curiosas em provar”, diz. | comida |
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] | Foi com sabores inusitados como cumaru, tapioca, cupuaçu, taperebá com geleia de jambo e castanha-do-pará que o mestre gelatier Tiago Silva, de Santarém (PA), contornou a frente fria que baixou em São Paulo neste fim de semana. O estande da Boto Sorveteria Artesanal foi dos mais cobiçados neste sábado, o primeiro dia do Festival Fartura, do qual a Folha é parceira.“As pessoas estão sendo atraídas pelo diferencial, e o frio é quase insignificante. Um cliente tomou sete porções, e disse que foi a melhor experiência do dia”, conta Tiago.O empresário, que nasceu em Roraima, mas passou boa parte da vida em Curitiba, se mudou para Santarém há quatro anos, para assumir um cargo na empresa do pai, na área do agronegócio.Descontente com o trabalho e saudoso do sorvete de iogurte com amarena (tipo de cereja italiana) de Curitiba, resolveu empreender. “Não encontrava nada que eu gostasse, falei ‘quer saber? Vou fazer o meu’”, conta. Fez primeiro um curso básico em São Paulo, e seguiu para a Itália, para uma temporada de quatro semanas na escola Icif (Italian Culinary Institute for Foreigners), na região do Piemonte, considerada uma das melhores do país. Lá aprendeu a técnica de preparo da base, e também a fazer todas as pastas e geleias usadas para dar sabor. “Não compro nada pronto. Para o sorvete de castanha-do-pará, por exemplo, torro primeiro para acentuar o gosto. Por isso tanto o aroma quanto o sabor são mais vivos”, explica.Quem provou concorda. “É um soco na cara de castanha-do-pará”, brinca o cozinheiro André Rossi Barbosa, 31. “É muito leve, macio e nem um pouco gorduroso”, diz Gabriela Santa Cruz, 22, também cozinheira.Como no Pará é difícil encontrar amarena, Tiago passou a criar em cima dos insumos locais. O primeiro sorvete de origem foi o treme-treme, que leva jambu, jambo e batidinha de cupuaçu. “Ia ter o Festival das Águas em Alter do Chão, e me pediram para criar um sabor que fosse a cara do lugar”, conta Tiago. Ele se lembrou da sacola de jambu que havia comprado por engano —o jambu é bem parecido com uma variedade de espinafre comum na região—, e resolveu experimentar. Uma cliente sugeriu que ele misturasse com o de maracujá com pimenta, e a combinação ficou ainda melhor. Ganhou o nome de napolitano regional. Depois de uma visita da cantora Gaby Amarantos, Tiago quis homenageá-la, mudando o nome do sorvete para treme-treme (título de uma de suas músicas mais famosas). Sucesso lá e cá: foi o mais pedido no Fartura. Seguiram-se outros sabores regionais, que dividem espaço com opções tradicionais, como chocolate belga, cheesecake e, claro, iogurte com cereja. As casquinhas também ganharam sabores da região, como cumaru e açaí. Hoje a sorveteria vende em torno de 30 mil porções por mês. No Fartura, foram mais de 400 bolas servidas no primeiro dia, ao preço de R$ 11 a bola, ou R$ 13 na casquinha. O festival acontece até as 20h deste domingo, no Jockey Club de São Paulo. O ingresso custa R$ 25. | comida |
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] | Um braseiro alimentado por mais de 300 quilos de lenha é uma das sensações do Festival Fartura, evento do qual a Folha é parceira e que acontece até este domingo (4), no Jockey Club de São Paulo.No estande do restaurante El Topador, do chef Antônio Costaguta, de Porto Alegre (RS), o público aproveitou para se aquecer na tarde mais fria do ano de em São Paulo enquanto assiste ao preparo de cortes como bife de chorizo com batatas e fraldinha com chimichurri.Na fogueira, madeiras de macieira, laranjeira e pessegueiro. “A cozinha de lenha tem o poder de confraternizar e de ser um elemento de união”, diz o chef.Mas a estrela é mesmo a costela da traseira do boi feita no fogo de chão, o tradicional preparo gaúcho. De tempos em tempos, alguém pergunta se falta muito para a carne ficar pronta. “Mas o principal ingrediente aqui é paciência”, diz Antônio Costaguta. Não à toa, já que os 40 quilos de costela, suspensos perto da brasa, demoram cerca de sete horas para chegar ao ponto —o resultado é uma carne extremamente macia e suculenta. No Cá-já, de Yuri Machado, em Recife, a pirotecnia também rouba a cena no preparo do espeto de bode, carne comum no sertão nordestino, que sofre certo preconceito por conta do sabor intenso. “A comida do sertão é deixada de lado. Queria que esse sabor chegasse a outras fronteiras. A ideia é provocar mesmo”, diz o chef. O cozinheiro paranaense Wesley Soares, 39, elogiou o tempero e o ponto, e destacou os acompanhamentos. “Achei a forma de preparar interessante, mas quem não está acostumado com esse sabor típico pode estranhar”.Não foi a impressão do estudante de gastronomia Erick Aleixo, 24, que provou neste sábado seu primeiro bode: “Como imaginava, é mais forte do que carne de carneiro, mas é muuuito bom”.Para o Fartura, Yuri preparou 40 quilos de carne, suficientes para 700 espetos. Até o meio da tarde, já tinha vendido 200 unidades. Para harmonizar, a sugestão do chef é cachaça de jambu. Alguns metros à frente, no espaço do Cozinha Tupis, de Belo Horizonte (MG), o chef Henrique Gilberto diz que foi a informalidade que ajudou a vender, até as 18h, cerca de 200 porções de frango com broa. Encorpada e ótima pedida para o frio, a porção, de comer com a mão, é receita de sucesso em seu restaurante, no Mercado Novo.O prato é composto por uma tira de broa grelhada que serve de base (como uma bruschetta) para cremes de requeijão moreno e de milho, com um pedaço de frango grelhado por cima. Muita gente, acredita Gilberto, pode ter confundido o pedaço de broa com uma polenta --mesmo assim, muitos clientes voltaram para repetir a dose.Apesar das baixas temperaturas, um dos estandes mais concorridos era o da Boto Sorveteria Artesanal, de Santarém (PA), inaugurada há cerca de três anos. O rondoniense Tiago Silva criou a marca porque sentia saudade do sorvete que tomava em Curitiba, onde viveu dos 13 aos 28 anos.Para valorizar a diversidade de produtos da região, deu espaço a sabores como castanha-do-pará, cupuaçu, taperebá e jambu, ingrediente bastante presente nesta edição do festival.“Acredito que o Brasil está passando por um processo de descobrimento do próprio país. Fiquei espantado com a quantidade de coisas de jambu que tem aqui”, diz Tiago. Até o final da tarde, a Boto já tinha vendido 390 bolas de sorvete.Até o começo da noite deste sábado, o festival vendeu mais de 5.000 pratos e 2.000 ingressos. | comida |
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] | A chef Helena Rizzo, do estrelado Maní, em São Paulo, foi rodeada por estudantes de gastronomia que disputavam uma foto com ela depois do fim da palestra que lotou o Espaço Conhecimento do Fartura neste sábado (3).O festival de gastronomia, do qual a Folha é parceira, reúne produtores e cozinheiros de todo o país neste sábado (3) e domingo (4) no Jockey Club de São Paulo.Helena, que é mentora do reality de culinária The Taste Brasil, da GNT, falou aos cerca de 40 presentes, alguns observando de pé, pelo lado de fora, sobre a importância da interdisciplinaridade dentro da carreira de cozinheiro. No lab.maní, programa de formação do Maní, os alunos podem ter aulas, por exemplo, com um crítico de arte, um ecólogo e um sociólogo. “Isso é fundamental: a cozinha se relaciona com diferentes áreas, com geografia, com história, e também com pessoas”, diz ela. “Quando comecei na cozinha, eu queria fazer comida boa. Depois, fui morar fora e apareceu a pergunta: por quê?”. No fim de sua apresentação, a chef e sua equipe serviram para o público três tipos de sorvete feitos com ingredientes brasileiros: coco com cúrcuma, chocolate com castanha de pequi e jenipapo com baunilha --este último, se destaca pela cor azul intensa.As palestras são uma faceta do festival, em que também é possível fazer degustações, aulas práticas e comprar itens direto do produtor.Veja abaixo de onde vêm e em que espaços estarão disponíveis os pratos e produtos desta edição. | comida |
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] | Pelo quarto ano seguido na capital paulista, o Festival Fartura – Comidas do Brasil, do qual a Folha é parceira, apresentará em degustações, aulas e experiências uma coleção de receitas, ingredientes e saberes de todos os estados.Veja abaixo de onde vêm e em que espaços estarão disponíveis os pratos e produtos desta edição, que será realizada no sábado (3) e no domingo (4).Festival Fartura – Comidas do Brasil São Paulo Sábado (3), das 12h às 22h, e domingo (4), das 12h às 20h, no Jockey Club São Paulo (av. Lineu de Paula Machado, 1.263, Cidade Jardim). R$ 25 (inteira) e R$ 12 (meia), no primeiro lote. Informações e venda de ingressos: farturabrasil.com.br/blog-festivais/fartura-sao-paulo | comida |
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] | A cozinha é só uma parte do dia e das preocupações da chef curitibana Gabriela Carvalho, 41, que encabeça o Quintana, um restaurante lixo-zero e cheio de mato na principal avenida de um dos bairros mais nobres da capital paranaense, o Batel.Para ela, o que acontece antes e depois de um prato ir à mesa é tão importante quanto o sabor da comida. "A gastronomia às vezes olha só uma etapa do processo, mas temos que pensar em todo o ciclo, de onde vem e para onde vai o alimento."No Quintana, os ingredientes são de produtores locais descobertos ao longo de 11 anos. E o que sobra do prato e da pia vai para composteiras ou empresas de reciclagem."Quando abri o restaurante, em 2008, levava para a rua todos os dias 20 sacos de lixo de cem litros cheios. Agora, levo só um, meio vazio", diz. A mudança não ocorreu de um dia para outro. O primeiro passo, oito anos atrás, foi a instalação de quatro tanques para compostagem de resíduos na lateral da casa, num terreno de 400 metros quadrados. Depois, vieram a separação do material reciclável e o combate ao desperdício.Na época, Gabriela não sabia quanta comida jogava fora. Começou a pesar as sobras e descobriu que cerca de 30 quilos de alimento iam para o lixo todos os dias. Revisou o tamanho das porções, fez campanhas com clientes e funcionários e conseguiu baixar a média para dois quilos diários."Aqui, a gente come tudo o que põe no prato", diz ela, enquanto apresenta o restaurante a um grupo de 35 pessoas que chega para almoçar às 11h20, dez minutos antes da abertura da casa, numa quinta-feira, dia 18 deste mês. "Se a fome bater, pode sair comendo o jardim. Quase tudo é comestível", afirma, apontando para as pancs (plantas alimentícias não convencionais) que cobrem paredes e pilastras do quintal.Além de ora-pro-nóbis, taioba e azedinha —três das tais pancs—, o jardim é cheio de verduras, ervas e árvores frutíferas como goiaba, jabuticaba, mamão e amora.O matagal é, em parte, obra de abelhas, que fizeram uma "revolução verde" no espaço, segundo Gabriela. A chef, que se define nas redes sociais como amante de "bees and beans" (abelhas e feijões), trouxe as primeiras colmeias para o lugar em 2012. Hoje, são dez enxames. O último ela ganhou de presente neste mês, em comemoração ao aniversário do Quintana. É uma colmeia de mandaçaia, espécie nativa sem ferrão, como todas as outras do local."Sem abelhas não há alimento", diz. E por causa delas às vezes é preciso sair da rotina. No dia em que a reportagem esteve no Quintana, a chef deixou de participar de uma reunião para subir no telhado e socorrer as mandaçaias, ameaçadas pelo frio de 10ºC daquela manhã. "Preciso ser rápida. Como é uma colmeia jovem, perder uma abelha é muito. Vou fazer uma suplementação e mudar a caixa de lugar", afirma.Assim que termina o transplante, corre para receber o produtor rural Roberto Gurski, que trouxe feijões e farinhas de sua propriedade em Palmeira, a 82 km de Curitiba.Os ingredientes serão usados pela chef na edição paulistana do Festival Fartura, nos dias 3 e 4 de agosto. Roberto produz 15 tipos de feijão orgânico, entre eles roxinho, azuki e feijão-arroz. Quando conheceu Gabriela, em 2016, cultivava quatro variedades. "Desenvolvi outros tipos por incentivo dela", diz.As leguminosas têm o mesmo peso das proteínas animais no cardápio do Quintana. Todo dia, além de quatro carnes, há ao menos quatro sementes. O restaurante funciona no esquema de bufê, só no almoço (durante a semana custa R$ 42 por pessoa ou R$ 69,90 o quilo; sábados e domingos sai R$ 62 por pessoa).O bufê, com travessas pequenas, foi rebatizado de mesa gastronômica. A cada dia, os pratos são inspirados em uma região do mundo. Na sexta, por exemplo, o tema é Oriente Médio: há tabule, falafel e carne de cordeiro. Aos fins de semana, é a vez de um brunch brasileiro, com queijos do Paraná, pães de fermentação natural e pratos regionais. No cardápio do restaurante, além de comida, há um menu cultural. As paredes da casa de 227 metros quadrados abrigam exposições de arte, que se renovam a cada um mês e meio, em média. Os cômodos também são cheios de estantes com livros, que podem ser emprestados pelos clientes. A ideia de misturar cultura e gastronomia está na origem e no nome do restaurante, uma homenagem ao poeta gaúcho Mario Quintana (1906-1994). A casa surgiu de uma parceria com o jornalista Rogério Pereira, editor do jornal Rascunho. Ele queria abrir um café literário; ela aceitou o desafio com uma condição: usar apenas produtos orgânicos.Gabriela tinha acabado de voltar a Curitiba depois de temporadas na Suíça (para estudar hotelaria), nos Estados Unidos (onde ajudou a abrir um hotel) e na Bahia, em que atuou como gerente de alimentos e bebidas do resort Txai, em Itacaré."Se fosse só para ganhar dinheiro, eu não estaria aqui. Queria mostrar que é possível aplicar ações sustentáveis e honrar o trabalho dos produtores locais", afirma.Ela continua fazendo isso. No Fartura, no Espaço Chefs e Restaurantes, vai servir uma polenta de milho branco (de Roberto Gurski), com queijo da cidade de Faxinal, cogumelos caçados na estrada da Graciosa e crocante de pinhão. No domingo (4), às 18h, no Espaço Conhecimento, dará uma aula com o tema "feijões: um alimento do futuro". Haverá degustação de uma salada de grãos, com mel de abelhas nativas e embutido de porco moura criado no Paraná.Festival Fartura – Comidas do Brasil São Paulo Sábado (3), das 12h às 22h, e domingo (4), das 12h às 20h, no Jockey Club São Paulo (av. Lineu de Paula Machado, 1.263, Cidade Jardim). R$ 25 (inteira) e R$ 12 (meia), no primeiro lote. Informações e venda de ingressos: farturabrasil.com.br/blog-festivais/fartura-sao-paulo | comida |
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] | Do bode, o chef João Barreto gosta de dizer que só não aproveita o berro. É dezembro quando o paraibano começa a engordar os bichos que serão abatidos para o Arraiá de Cumpade, festa de São João que ele organiza em junho e atrai a Campina Grande 3.000 pessoas por fim de semana. Tanto no evento quanto em seu restaurante, o Casa de Cumpade, as receitas são as tradicionais, como bode com mandioca guisada. Mas, apesar do sucesso de público, João, assim como outros chefs, sentiu a necessidade de dar novos ares ao ingrediente com receitas que fogem de estereótipos. “A gente quer tirar o preconceito dessa carne criando pratos como o bobode”, diz. Servida em eventos, a versão é feita com purê de mandioca, caldo à base de ossos do bode, leite de coco, gengibre e azeite de dendê, que envolvem carne de bode flambada.Outra receita de João, o ragu de bode, será servida no Espaço Chefs e Restaurantes da edição paulistana do Fartura. No preparo, a carne é marinada em vinho do Vale do São Francisco, assada até soltar lascas, desfiada e servida sobre risoto de arroz vermelho com queijo de cabra. Não é sem surpresa que alguns clientes leem no menu do restaurante Origem, em Salvador, que um dos snacks do menu-degustação de 14 etapas é um pãozinho delícia com sarapatel de bode. Muitos já avisam que não vão comer —com jeitinho, os garçons pedem uma chance à receita do chef Fabrício Lemos. Nela, o pãozinho tem como recheio um tipo de hambúrguer feito com sarapatel denso, que é moldado em disco, empanado em farinha Panko e frito.“O preconceito que se carrega é do animal velho, com alimentação precária. Aos poucos, as pessoas estão experimentando esse novo produto. É uma carne de personalidade, um pouco intensa, como a carne de caça”, diz ele.Fabrício também desenvolveu um taco com ragu de bode, bilimbi (fruta azedinha), kefir, repolho e broto de coentro, presente no menu do Ori, que abriu no fim de 2018 ao lado da confeiteira Lisiane Arouca, sua mulher.Os dois organizam expedições que cruzam a Bahia com a intenção de mapear ingredientes e produtores. Com a carne de bode, não seria diferente: ela é fornecida por uma cooperativa de Pintadas (cerca de 250 km de Salvador) que desenvolveu cortes como stinco (parte inferior do pernil), carré (corte da costela) e paleta (parte dianteira), essa última usada nas receitas. Tudo de cabrito. Ué, mas não é bode?“É uma bandeira que eu não abandono: gosto de dizer carne de bode para chamar atenção e as pessoas deixarem o preconceito. Mas o que uso é cabrito”, diz Fabrício.Assim como ele, outros chefs podem até mencionar o bode no cardápio, mas acabam preparando cabrito (cria do bode e da cabra).São considerados cabritos os animais jovens, de até um ano de idade, que têm carne mais tenra e sabor e odor menos intensos, explica a pesquisadora Lisiane Dorneles de Lima, do Embrapa. Para ela, o estigma dessa carne vem do hábito de consumir um animal mais velho, associado ao aumento na intensidade do sabor e do odor da carne, por fatores como a variação de hormônios.Hoje, além do abate precoce, outras razões contribuem para a melhoria da carne, que é naturalmente magra e de alto valor nutritivo. Entre elas, alimentação, sistema de manejo e pesquisa de raças, que permitem melhor aproveitamento do animal. Yuri Machado, do restaurante Cá-já, em Recife, retira do pescoço do bicho um corte rico em tutano e deixa cozinhar por 15 horas até se tornar o suculento recheio de bao (pão asiático no vapor). Outro sucesso da casa, a cafta de bode estará também no Espaço Chefs e Restaurantes do Fartura. Feita com carne moída temperada com cominho, canela, sumagre, pimenta síria, picles, ervas e creme azedo de nata sertaneja.Bode é comum em restaurantes nos mercados públicos de Recife. Mas é no sertão que a proteína reina, tanto no dia a dia como nas festas.O consumo desta carne nasce de hábitos do agreste e do sertão, onde estão os criatórios tradicionais desses animais, explica Raul Lody, especialista em antropologia da alimentação. Com as melhorias, o ingrediente passa a ser mais usado graças à criatividade do chef —e a generosidade do comensal em provar, diz Lody. João Barreto, porém, faz uma observação: bode deve ter gosto de bode. “Se não quiser esse sabor, então a pessoa compre um frango. É uma questão de cultura.”Festival Fartura – Comidas do Brasil São Paulo Sábado (3), das 12h às 22h, e domingo (4), das 12h às 20h, no Jockey Club São Paulo (av. Lineu de Paula Machado, 1.263, Cidade Jardim). R$ 25 (inteira) e R$ 12 (meia), no primeiro lote. Informações e venda de ingressos: farturabrasil.com.br/blog-festivais/fartura-sao-paulo | comida |
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] | Entre os causos que se contam na família de Henrique Gilberto, 32, um é clássico. A vez em que sua bisavó saiu carregada por garçons de um restaurante após discutir, insatisfeita com o fato de o molho pardo do frango ter sido engrossado com amido de milho. “Virou uma brincadeira. Frango com molho pardo, você não mexe, se não dona Efigênia vem puxar seu pé”, conta Henrique, à frente do restaurante Cozinha Tupis.Histórias são ingrediente obrigatório nos pratos de sua casa, inaugurada em outubro do ano passado no Mercado Novo, zona central de Belo Horizonte. Um dos principais nomes da cozinha mineira contemporânea, Henrique encabeçou, com um grupo de amigos, a ideia de ocupar o prédio desse mercado. O espaço, que antes era tomado por fabriquetas, gráficas pequenas e lojas de velas, começou a receber também restaurantes, cafés e empórios que funcionam como uma rede —em um bar, por exemplo, você pode comer o quitute do box vizinho.Deu tão certo que esse novo pedaço do mercado fica lotado de quinta a domingo. Henrique herdou o gosto pela cozinha do avô, Aníbal, pai de seu pai. Médico e professor de biologia, o avô ia aos livros de culinária e testava os pratos para aprender mais sobre diferentes culturas, como a japonesa. Os filhos cresceram gostando de cozinhar, mas nenhum seguiu essa atividade como profissão. Só o neto.Aos 15, Henrique começou a trabalhar limpando a cozinha do Xapuri, tradicional restaurante de comida mineira. Depois, mudou-se para o Rio e foi trabalhar no Carême, da chef Flávia Quaresma.Três anos mais tarde, foi convidado para o Super Chef, quadro do programa de Ana Maria Braga, na TV Globo. Ele venceu a competição, um dos primeiros realities de gastronomia do país. O prêmio de R$ 50 mil foi separado para uma viagem de aprendizado na Europa. Antes, Henrique ainda colocou no currículo o D.O.M., de Alex Atala. Depois de passar por França e Espanha, trabalhou por oito meses no restaurante de um dos chefs mais estrelados do mundo: a Osteria Francescana, do italiano Massimo Bottura, em Modena. Lá, aprendeu mais sobre a importância da preciosidade técnica, dos rituais de concentração na cozinha e também das relações humanas.“A coisa que mais me impressionou quando comecei a trabalhar aqui no Cozinha Tupis foi a forma com que Henrique trata o alimento. Ele se empolga com o método, com o ingrediente e transmite isso para a gente”, depõe Ana Clara Ribeiro Valadares, 23, cozinheira. “Em outras casas, você pega e faz, não é lugar de criação.”A inventividade no Cozinha Tupis é regra. O cardápio do lugar muda toda semana, pautado pelos ingredientes disponíveis na época. Se for a semente de abóbora que está barata, por exemplo, a equipe quebra a cabeça para usá-la em receitas.“A gente sabe que em um cardápio fixo a tendência é o cozinheiro fazer 10 quilos de purê e guardar na geladeira. Aqui é o antipadrão. A gente muda para estar sempre cozinhando”, afirma Henrique. Os testes e as melhorias são anotados. Desde que o restaurante abriu, há nove meses, já foram oito cadernos. Há, ali, pratos que fazem porque gostam, e outros que fazem porque são sucesso de público. Nessa última categoria está o frango (coxa e sobrecoxa) com requeijão e milho, que Henrique irá levar ao Espaço Chefs e Restaurantes do Fartura. O milho está presente no creme e na broa, servida em formato de biscoito.O modelo de negócio do Cozinha Tupis virou filosofia de trabalho segundo a qual a relação com os fornecedores e com o local é prioridade. Henrique trabalha com três fazendas agroflorestais na região da capital mineira, com alguns frigoríficos pequenos, nos quais é possível pedir o corte de carne a seu gosto, e também com os feirantes do próprio mercado. “Tinha essa intenção meio utópica, e ainda temos, de construir um lugar que cause um impacto positivo na sociedade como um todo”, diz Rafael Quick, um dos sócios da cervejaria Viela, que virou âncora do espaço gastronômico do Mercado Novo. Além da relação com fornecedores, a responsabilidade sobre a produção de lixo influencia muito a maneira como Henrique pensa a comida. No seu restaurante só se usa guardanapo de pano e copo de vidro. E nada de embalagens para viagem. Alimentos que começam a passar do ponto são submetidos a um processo de fermentação para serem conservados e, além disso, também podem virar vinagre. Sobras de caldo são desidratadas e voltam às receitas como tempero. E alimentos e restos que não puderem ser reaproveitados são encaminhados para compostagem. Entre 2013 e 2014, Henrique comandou a dinâmica de um restaurante grande, o Belo Comidaria, em Belo Horizonte, onde a comida, produzida em grande quantidade, sobrava.Hoje, a realidade é diferente, e ele parece ter encontrado sua identidade: pensa na cadeia alimentar toda, do fornecedor até o lixo. “Nosso papel é tentar mudar o cenário do mercado, para ele ter portas mais abertas a fornecedores de orgânicos”, diz Henrique. “Quando a gente busca simplicidade, vê que basta aceitar o ambiente que nos cerca. A identidade da Cozinha Tupis beira isso.”Festival Fartura – Comidas do Brasil São Paulo Sábado (3), das 12h às 22h, e domingo (4), das 12h às 20h, no Jockey Club São Paulo (av. Lineu de Paula Machado, 1.263, Cidade Jardim). R$ 25 (inteira) e R$ 12 (meia), no primeiro lote. Informações e venda de ingressos: farturabrasil.com.br/blog-festivais/fartura-sao-paulo | comida |
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] | É uma casa muito engraçada, só tem cozinha, não tem mais nada. Mas a ideia do chef João Diamante, 28, é essa mesma: receber convidados na cozinha de uma casa brasileira, no Rio. A ideia deu tão certo que, após três meses de funcionamento, o Na Minha Casa ostenta o primeiríssimo lugar entre os mais de 13 mil restaurantes da cidade, segundo a lista do site de viagens e gastronomia TripAdvisor (são 125 resenhas até agora, sendo que 122 delas deram cinco estrelas para o local). A receita para esse sucesso tem diversos ingredientes:1) O pequeno restaurante tem uma grande mesa compartilhada que acomoda 12 pessoas e serve até 25, em minimesas laterais;2) Cada um paga o que quiser, apesar de uma lousa trazer um preço sugerido para o café da manhã (R$ 30) de bolos, pães, geleias, ovos, café coado na mesa etc., e para o almoço (R$ 58), com entrada e sobremesa;3) Quanto às bebidas, a mesma coisa: vinho, cerveja, suco, café e até a dose de uísque têm preços sugeridos, mas o cliente decide o valor final;4) João Diamante recebe e abraça cada cliente, para depois contar um pouco da história de sua vida e do seu restaurante para o grupo;5) Os pratos são, segundo ele, contemporâneos e de todo o mundo, mas com ingredientes brasileiros. “Chamar isso aqui de restaurante é até falta de respeito”, diz Diamante. “Mas é algo que nunca tive em casa, pois minha mãe sempre saía para trabalhar cedo.”É uma comida confortável, digamos assim: lasanha com queijo do Araxá, ossobuco com polenta e agrião e por aí vai. Rabada ou feijoada aparecem de vez em quando. Não há um cardápio fixo, mas a lousa indica: “Quer saber o que tem pra comer? Pergunte!”. Diamante sempre quer saber se a pessoa tem restrições alimentares e dá um jeito para que ninguém passe fome.O Na Minha Casa funciona em uma sobreloja no Mercado Municipal do Rio, mais conhecido como Cadeg (Centro de Abastecimento do Estado da Guanabara), em Benfica, zona norte da cidade, próximo ao estádio do Maracanã.Lá dentro, é difícil encontrar o restaurante de João Diamante. Não há placa, apenas uma lousa em frente a uma loja de utensílios domésticos chamada Espaço Maranguape, na rua 15 do Mercadão.Mas é ali mesmo, basta entrar e subir os degraus para o segundo andar. Atenção com os horários, pois, além de não servir jantar, o restaurante-cozinha funciona apenas de sexta a domingo, das 8h às 17h, sendo que o café da manhã vai até as 11h, o almoço até as 15h e depois há drinques e petiscos.Para o Festival Fartura, onde estará no Espaço Chefs e Restaurantes, Diamante bolou, a exemplo do que serve no Na Minha Casa, uma mistura de técnica de outro país com matéria-prima nacional: serão duas tortillas de milho, uma recheada com ragu de frango, vinagrete de quiabo e creme de milho, e a segunda com caponata de berinjela, abobrinha, pimentão e cogumelos paris.“São tacos nordestinos”, diz ele, que chegou ao Rio vindo de Salvador, na Bahia, com menos de um ano de idade, no colo da mãe. Foram morar na comunidade Nova Divineia, na zona norte do Rio, e lá vivem até hoje.Ela trabalhou como empregada doméstica e ele, aos 7, fazia pão escondido na padaria próxima para arrumar uns trocados. Vendeu cloro, bolo, cuidou de piscina, teve dois PlayStations e duas televisões que alugava por hora, montou uma equipe para fazer som em eventos e, ao completar 18, se alistou na Marinha. “Era o sonho de minha mãe.”Foi ali que começou a cozinhar, inicialmente no “ranchão”, para 9.000 recrutas. Diamante fazia questão de melhorar o que podia: “Colocava gelo na jacuba, por exemplo”, diz, referindo-se à forma como os marinheiros chamam um recipiente de suco. Ou anexava alho e cebola ao feijão insosso. “Quando o João está no ranchão, a comida fica diferente”, comentavam.Logo estava cozinhando para oficiais na Praça D’Armas, que tinham mesa com toalhas, taças, garçom, tudo como um restaurante. “Aprendi etiqueta, como falar, o tom da música, a regulagem certa do ar-condicionado”, lembra. Daí para o almirante, foi apenas um pulo. “O pessoal me chamava de ‘chaleira’, que é puxa-saco na Marinha. Mas não era isso: era a profissão do futuro!”, orgulha-se.E o almirante queria mais: mandou Diamante passar três meses na cozinha do Iate Club do Rio de Janeiro, na Urca. Depois, que ele fizesse faculdade. Na época, a Estácio de Sá tinha uma parceria com o chef francês Alain Ducasse para um curso gastronômico. Ficou entre os três primeiros e foi escolhido para ir a Paris. Olha lá o marinheiro João cozinhando no restaurante do segundo andar da Torre Eiffel.Nessa parte da história, escorrem lágrimas dos olhos de Diamante, e ele balbucia algo como “um menino da favela na torre Eiffel...”.O restaurante era o Le Jules Verne, que foi comandado por Ducasse até o ano passado. O brasileiro, sem falar francês, despertou a curiosidade do chef, que lhe ofereceu ficar para trabalhar em sua equipe. Mas Diamante não aceitou.Há três anos, ele voltou. “Eu queria retribuir. Ainda na França, escrevi o projeto social Diamantes na Cozinha, para ensinar desde o plantio de alimentos até o serviço à mesa.” O programa atende 25 jovens por semestre e é gratuito, mas é preciso ter 18 anos para participar.Além disso, anuncia um endereço e uma nova fornada de pães pelo Instagram (@boulangeRUA) e vai para a zona sul vender a produção, que divide com o parceiro Sandro Fernandes.Agora é capaz que João Diamante comece a ficar conhecido fora do Rio de Janeiro: no dia 8 de agosto, ele deve estrear na nova temporada do Cozinheiros em Ação, programa gastronômico no canal pago GNT.Trata-se de uma competição que busca o melhor cozinheiro de comida caseira, com duplas de parentes que vêm de diversas partes do país para participar. Se for assim, vai ser ainda mais difícil conseguir algum dos parcos lugares daquela casa engraçada, que só tem cozinha, não tem mais nada.Festival Fartura – Comidas do Brasil São Paulo Sábado (3), das 12h às 22h, e domingo (4), das 12h às 20h, no Jockey Club São Paulo (av. Lineu de Paula Machado, 1.263, Cidade Jardim). R$ 25 (inteira) e R$ 12 (meia), no primeiro lote. Informações e venda de ingressos: farturabrasil.com.br/blog-festivais/fartura-sao-paulo | comida |
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] | Cada pessoa no Brasil consome, em média, 17 quilos de feijão ao ano. O mais popular é o do tipo carioca, que representa entre 60% e 80% da produção nacional, segundo o Ministério da Agricultura. Mas nem só de carioquinhas é feita a refeição do brasileiro. Feijões preto, rajado, jalo, vermelho e fradinho, conhecido como feijão-de-corda ou caupi, entre outros, estão conquistando seu lugar no prato. São dezenas de variedades, com sabores, formatos e cores diferentes. “A dupla mais famosa no Brasil é o feijão com arroz. O feijão é muito importante para nós. Tanto que a feijoada é nosso ícone culinário. Hoje, junto com a mandioca e o milho, ele tem grande importância econômica e social no país”, afirma a chef Angelita Gonzaga, do restaurante Arimbá, que fica em São Paulo.No Fartura, mais de dez tipos estarão representados, seja em pratos, seja na aula “feijões, um alimento do futuro”, ministrada pela chef curitibana Gabriela Carvalho no Espaço Conhecimento, no domingo (4), às 18h.O ingrediente é nutritivo: a maior parte das variedades é boa fonte de fibras alimentares, proteína, carboidratos, vitaminas (principalmente do complexo B) e minerais. Tem ainda antioxidantes em seus pigmentos, afirma Priscila Zaczuk Bassinello, pesquisadora em Ciência de Alimentos da Embrapa (Empresa Brasileira de Pesquisa Agropecuária).O nome do feijão é, em geral, associado à cor do grão —como o amarelo ou o rosinha, por exemplo, encontrados em feiras orgânicas, mercearias e empórios, e menos populares no Brasil. Dentro de uma mesma categoria de cor há diferentes tamanhos. Essas distinções fazem com que cada tipo seja mais adequado a um preparo.O carioca, mais popular, nasceu do cruzamento de duas variedades, o opaco e o bico de ouro, bege e com listras de cor marrom.Visualmente, lembra as calçadas de Copacabana, daí o nome, diz o nutricionista Rafael Santos da Silva, do Armazém Santa Filomena. E há cariocas e cariocas. “Existem cerca de 20 variações do grupo”, afirma.A maior parte dos feijões é consumida da mesma forma: com caldo. Uma exceção é o fradinho, usado no preparo do baião de dois e em saladas. Descubra a seguir as características dos feijões que estarão no Fartura e sugestões de como utilizá-los na cozinha.Rajado Parece um feijão-carioca, mas suas listras (de onde vem o nome rajado) são de outra cor: rosadas ou vermelho-escuras. Seu grão longo, de cor bege, tem sabor levemente adocicado. Por isso, também é conhecido fora do país, onde existe um grande mercado consumidor, como feijão doce (“sugar bean”). De preparo rápido, tamanho graúdo e textura firme, funciona bem em receitas como saladas ou feijão-tropeiro. É uma boa fonte de proteínas e fibras, que auxiliam no controle de níveis de açúcar e colesterol no sangueCavalo vermelho Esse feijão pode ter diferentes tamanhos, em versões mais arredondadas ou compridas. Também apresenta tonalidades variadas. Fora do Brasil, o cavalo vermelho do tipo mais claro é muito apreciado.Por aqui, predomina o vermelho-escuro. No Rio Grande do Sul, a salada do feijão cavalo vermelho é um acompanhamento do tradicional churrasco gaúcho.O ingrediente também aparece refogado com alho, cebola e cheiro-verde e é usado em preparos com caldo, que ganha bastante consistência.Na culinária francesa, é muito utilizado no preparo de sopas No Brasil, é produzido em pequena escala e, principalmente, para exportação Fradinho Tem participação especial em receitas clássicas da cozinha brasileira, como o baião-de-dois, em que faz par com arroz e carne. Além disso, também é usado na Bahia para preparar a massa do acarajé e, nas regiões Norte e Nordeste do Brasil, é comum encontrá-lo descascado, para fazer farinha. ode ser cozido como o feijão-carioca, ainda que renda um caldo mais ralo —pela ausência de líquido, também vai bem no preparo de saladas. Seu grão, de aparência levemente rugosa, tem formato de rim, marcado por um halo bem delineado de cor preta no meio. Consumido em todas as regiões do país, o feijão-fradinho também é conhecido como feijão-de-corda, caupi e boca-preta. Fora do Brasil, é chamado de “blackeye bean” (feijão de olho preto) e pode ser encontrado nas Américas Central e do Norte, na Europa, na Ásia e na OceaniaRosinha Esse grão rosado de sabor suave e fácil cozimento produz um caldo consistente, que ganha tons achocolatados.De textura aerada, é muito tradicional na cozinha mexicana. Por aqui, pode ser feito em forma de feijoada e também vai bem na dupla feijão e arroz, de consumo diário.Já foi um dos principais feijões produzidos no Brasil, até começar a ser substituído, a partir da década de 1970, pelo carioca. Hoje, a produção é feita principalmente por pequenos agricultores.O feijão rosinha está entre os mais nutritivos alimentos de origem vegetal: é fonte de proteínas de boa qualidade, que colaboram com a saúde dos músculos. Junto com as proteínas, as fibras presentes no grão aumentam a sensação de saciedade e podem contribuir com o controle de peso Amarelo Também conhecido como canário ou bolinha-amarelo. É um ingrediente que aparece mais em pratos das regiões Sul e Sudeste, principalmente em receitas inspiradas pela culinária portuguesa.Entre as sugestões de preparo, estão saladas e sopas. Seu grão tem formato arredondado e um halo levemente saliente, mas pode ser encontrado em tamanhos diferentes. Sua cor também varia, sempre em tons de amarelo: pode ser intenso, como um amarelo canário, ou esverdeado. É produzido por agricultores de pequenas propriedades e costuma ser encontrado em feiras livresAzuki redondo Nativo da China, foi cultivado no Japão por pelo menos mil anos e trazido ao Brasil pelos imigrantes japoneses —a produção da variedade por aqui, porém, ainda é baixa.Apesar de ser usado em pratos salgados, entre os doces tem um representante conhecido: o bolinho nipônico de feijão azuki.No quesito preparo, tem uma grande vantagem em relação às outras variedades: cozinha rapidamente. Quando fica pronto, seu grão, achatado e pequeno, tem sabor adocicado.Além da mesa japonesa, também é comum em cozinhas macrobióticas e naturais em receitas como saladas. É também um feijão nutritivo: rico em antioxidantes, proteínas de qualidade e minerais Roxinho De cor marrom-avermelhada, tem sabor suave e textura macia depois de preparado.Seu cozimento é relativamente rápido, e, durante o processo, consegue absorver bem os temperos. No final, rende um bom caldo.No Brasil, é muito consumido em estados como São Paulo e Minas Gerais, onde pode ser usado em receitas como feijão-tropeiro e tutu de feijão. Costuma ser obtido em plantações de pequenos produtoresFontes: Angelita Gonzaga, chef do restaurante Arimbá; Aluana Gonçalves de Abreu, pesquisadora em Recursos Genéticos e Biotecnologia da Embrapa; Priscila Zaczuk Bassinello, pesquisadora-doutora em Ciência de Alimentos da Embrapa Arroz e Feijão; e Rafael Santos da Silva, nutricionista do Armazém Santa FilomenaFestival Fartura – Comidas do Brasil São Paulo Sábado (3), das 12h às 22h, e domingo (4), das 12h às 20h, no Jockey Club São Paulo (av. Lineu de Paula Machado, 1.263, Cidade Jardim). R$ 25 (inteira) e R$ 12 (meia), no primeiro lote. Informações e venda de ingressos: farturabrasil.com.br/blog-festivais/fartura-sao-paulo | comida |
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] | Falar em cozinha farm-to-table soa velho. Foi uma moda que surgiu mais de década atrás, quando ainda não sabíamos o tamanho do buraco. Naquele tempo, descobrir que um chef só comprava ingredientes locais aquecia o coração dos consumidores ecologicamente corretos.Chefs mais e menos famosos enobreceram suas imagens em cima da onda dos ingredientes orgânicos de fornecedores pequenos e virtuosos. Até 2010 ainda eram poucos. Alain Passard em Paris. Dan Barber em Nova York. Alice Waters na Califórnia. A moda pegou embalo e alguns novos aderentes resolveram ir ainda mais longe. Se comprar verduras do vizinho é bacana, plantá-las nos fundos do seu restaurante é mais bacana ainda!O farm-to-table virou horta-to-table ou até, em certos casos, laje-to-table. Nunca os chefs-hortelões estiveram tão em alta como hoje. Eneko Atxa em Bilbao. Mauro Colagreco perto de Nice. Rafa Costa e Silva no Rio. Sergey e Ivan Berezutsky em Moscou. Além de plantarem e instalaram colmeias de abelhas, passaram a compostar os restos de comida etc. Esses chefs verdes não só melhoram o seu entorno e presenteiam clientes com vegetais recém-colhidos como, celebridades que são, acabam influenciando milhares ao redor do mundo e passando um recado importante.Só que se somarmos o impacto positivo de todos os chefs estrelados que plantam, reciclam e cuidam do planeta, não dá quase nada. O bem que fazem é uma gota no oceano. A cada dia consomem-se toneladas de frangos industriais criados em gaiolas, peixes e carnes cheios de antibióticos e verduras e cereais cultivados em larguíssima escala usando químicos.É o consumidor que está virando o jogo, cada vez mais exigente em saber como e onde foi feita a comida pela qual pagou. Nos Estados Unidos e na Europa, usar ingredientes do mal equivale, para o público urbano, jovem e instruído, a acender um cigarro em um hospital.Atentos a essa mentalidade que alastra-se a galope, até os vilões estão virando a casaca. Na França, por exemplo, o McDonald’s só usa frangos criados soltos. As saladas levam no máximo quatro dias da horta ao cliente.Há muitos outros exemplos de redes de fast food indo por essa nova rota, de Shake Shack a Starbucks. Isso sem falar nos supermercados que também estão aumentando exponencialmente a oferta de produtos locais e orgânicos. Aí sim estamos falando de uma transformação de grande impacto.As multinacionais e as redes de restaurantes que entram por esse caminho não fazem isso por bondade ou consciência ecológica. Trocar produtos industriais e nefastos por outros que sejam sustentáveis custa caro e dá trabalho, eliminar plásticos e combater o desperdício alimentar também. Mas a cada dia mais deles resolvem pegar o bonde verde —por mais caro que custe. Sacaram que ou corrigem os pecados do passado ou vão perder clientes aos poucos até, mais cedo ou mais tarde, morrerem. Festival Fartura – Comidas do Brasil São Paulo Sábado (3), das 12h às 22h, e domingo (4), das 12h às 20h, no Jockey Club São Paulo (av. Lineu de Paula Machado, 1.263, Cidade Jardim). R$ 25 (inteira) e R$ 12 (meia), no primeiro lote. Informações e venda de ingressos: farturabrasil.com.br/blog-festivais/fartura-sao-paulo | comida |
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] | Petisco à mão é um perigo, porque é comida com mais cara de prazer que de refeição. No Fartura vai ter de um tudo. Cozinheiros servirão, no Espaço Chefs e Restaurantes, quitutes doces e salgados de encher os olhos e fartar a boca. O prato principal que se cuide. Conexão sino-mineira Em geral, a carne de porco trava uma bela amizade com o pão. Mas poucos sanduíches são tão instagramáveis quanto o bao (ou bun, em inglês) de barriga de porco. Quase sempre, a estrela dos montadinhos é recheio. No bao, porém, o segredo está na delicadeza do pão. Depois de fermentada, a massa feita de farinha de trigo é esticada feito pizza e cortada em círculos. Cresce mais um pouco e, em seguida, é levada para cozinhar no vapor. O resultado é um pão de textura úmida e macia, com superfície lisa.Para virar sanduíche, é preciso dobrar o bao ao meio —algo que se popularizou em Taiwan sob o nome de gua bao (gua é “embrulhar”) e que fez a fama do chef nova-iorquino David Chang, dono dos restaurantes Momofuku e inventor de modas. Foi ele quem espalhou o bao pelo mundo.Paulo Yoller, à frente do restaurante Bao Bao Baby, em São Paulo, leva duas receitas de bao ao Fartura (R$ 16): uma versão vegetariana com abobrinha, queijo de cabra e castanha-do-pará, e a clássica com barriga de porco, molho aïoli e vinagrete de couve, junção de China e Minas Gerais. Yoller utiliza os pães veganos do Bao Hut. A peça de barriga de porco duroc que Yoller usa, mais marmorizada, é cozida inteira por quatro horas com mirepoix (mistura de vegetais aromáticos que é a base da cozinha francesa). Depois, ela é congelada e frita para ganhar textura. Na hora de montar, corta-se a barriga em pedaços e frita-se de novo. Fica crocante por fora e úmida por dentro.Fritura sequinha e suculenta É de lei acabar nas frituras na hora de petiscar. Parece que o paladar procura crocâncias e suculências, coisas que abundam na coxinha. No embalo vai uma, vão duas, vão muitas. As minicoxinhas da banqueteira Renata Cruz são descritas por ela em poucas palavras. “No recheio a gente usa só o peito do frango, com molho de tomate de verdade, temperos, cebola e requeijão. E tem que cozinhar a massa de batata para não ficar nem seca nem mole demais”, diz, sem revelar muito.A verdade é que fazer uma coxinha bem feita demanda atenção a cada momento do preparo —da atenção ao fogo enquanto se cozinha a massa de farinha de trigo e batata, até o momento de fritá-la. A temperatura do óleo pode arruinar toda a receita. Rê Cruz passou algum tempo aperfeiçoando o preparo das coxinhas no Amici, bufê que tocou até 2018. Como fazia muita festa infantil e precisava garantir a entrega das coxinhas no ponto certo de textura e sabor, decidiu investir em uma máquina específica para congelamento, que pudesse preservar o frescor dos ingredientes e o transporte até as festas, onde seriam assadas, e não fritas. “A clientela sempre queria levar porções de coxinha para casa e encomendar os salgados. O processo de ultracongelamento evita que se formem crostas de gelo nas coxinhas. A água congela, mas em formato de micropartículas.” Segundo ela, o quitute vai do freezer ao forno, sem prejuízo das partes crocantes. Hoje, Renata está à frente da loja Rê Cruz To Go. Servirá porções de seis unidades, fritas na hora, acompanhadas de uma geleia de pimenta da De Cabrón, por R$20. Cacau com personalidade Era só mais um dia na vida de Lucas Corazza. O confeiteiro caminhava por uma loja de itens de confeitaria, à procura de insumos para fazer sobremesas e apresentar aos seus alunos. Em um dos corredores, um atendente servia pedaços de chocolate. Lucas pegou e provou. “De cara, pensei: ‘Que chocolate estranho, esse!’. Voltei, pedi mais um pedaço”, lembra ele.O chocolate em questão era um Harald Unique 70%, feito com amêndoas de cacau colhidas na região da Amazônia. Não era um chocolate comum, apesar de ser feito em escala industrial. “Mesmo os melhores chocolates são feitos com uma torra de cacau em temperatura alta, e depois aromatizados com o sabor da marca”, diz o confeiteiro. “Se, por um lado, isso te oferece padronização e confiabilidade, por outro faz a gente menosprezar um cacau com personalidade, o que é um erro.”“Muitas pessoas experimentam esse cacau e se surpreendem, como eu me surpreendi. Ele é desafiador, tem acidez, porque é um fruto, o cacau é um fruto. Há que ter espaço para isso, sem culpa”, diz ele. Em defesa de uma confeitaria brasileira que não dependa do leite condensado, Corazza replica a magia do chocolate na sobremesa que leva ao Fartura, uma torta de chocolate com pipoca caramelizada (R$ 18). O doce tem base de biscoito, ganache feita com o chocolate da Harald Unique e, no topo, a crocância da pipoca, banhada em caramelo de açúcar e manteiga e cozida a 200ºC. Doce em versão brasileira Uma viagem por São Paulo, em 2017, despertou o faro comercial de Leonardo Macedo e Tito Barcellos. Amigos de longa data, os cozinheiros curitibanos notaram que quase não tinha banoffee para vender na cidade. Como é que pode?Banoffee (ou banoffi) é uma torta de banana, doce de leite e chantili, mas a essa altura do campeonato é possível que o leitor já saiba do que se trata, tamanho o sucesso das tortas do Nanica no Instagram. Diferentemente de tantas outras receitas de origem incerta, a banoffee —junção de banana com toffee— tem paternidade comprovada. É criação de outra dupla, Nigel Mackenzie e Ian Dowding, chefs do pub Hungry Monk em East Sussex, na Inglaterra. A receita dos dois, contudo, não foi patenteada. A banoffee dos ingleses leva massa podre (massa quebrada ou pâte brisée) na base, mas logo as adaptações rolavam soltas, e popularizou-se a torta feita com biscoito triturado. Em 6 metros quadrados, a loja da Nanica opera milagres. De início, Leonardo e Tito abordavam a clientela local sem qualquer cerimônia: davam fatias aos clientes que passavam e faziam barulho nas redes sociais. O negócio começou a virar quando a atriz Bruna Marquezine fez um post no Instagram com uma fatia da torta. “Em 24 horas, ganhamos 7.000 seguidores”, diz Leonardo. Vieram Tiago Abravanel, Maisa, Di Ferrero e outros influenciadores. A cada foto publicada é mais banoffee vendida.O festival terá dois sabores de banoffee, o de morangos e o tradicional (R$ 16): bolacha de leite triturada com manteiga e água, leite condensado cozido, bananas cortadas no sentido do comprimento, chantili e cacau em pó.Festival Fartura – Comidas do Brasil São Paulo Sábado (3), das 12h às 22h, e domingo (4), das 12h às 20h, no Jockey Club São Paulo (av. Lineu de Paula Machado, 1.263, Cidade Jardim). R$ 25 (inteira) e R$ 12 (meia), no primeiro lote. Informações e venda de ingressos: farturabrasil.com.br/blog-festivais/fartura-sao-paulo | comida |
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] | No Tocantins, Ruth de Almeida quebrou coco de babaçu ainda criança, num trabalho que reconhece como escravo, reservado às mulheres. Hoje, homenageia o coquinho, cujo óleo tem perfume de avelã, em seu restaurante em Palmas. Daniel Castelli largou a cidade para voltar ao campo. Habita uma pequena propriedade rural em Canela, no Rio Grande do Sul, na qual reativou uma terra improdutiva para plantar milho crioulo. Ali, o grão, triturado em moinho de pedra, vira farinha, que faz a base da polenta. Num sítio na região serrana do Espírito Santo, Angelina Kopp Schmidt, descendente de pomeranos, repete a receita do pão brote, herdada desses imigrantes. Feito originalmente de trigo, assado em folha de bananeira num forno de barro, aqui incorporou fubá de milho branco e raízes brasileiras.São personagens como esses que estarão presentes na quarta edição do Fartura São Paulo, que a expedição fisga pelo Brasil, em viagens nas quais busca rastrear a cadeia do alimento, com rigor e profundidade, desde 2012. Essencialmente, o que move o Fartura, maior plataforma de cozinha brasileira, que agrega site, livros, filmes e programas de televisão e rádio, é o propósito de difundir, celebrar e compartilhar os ingredientes, os gestos e as tradições do nosso comer. Nos festivais, arma-se um ambiente de alegria e troca entre cozinheiros, produtores e demais atores da alimentação das cinco regiões do Brasil, nas quais o projeto também realiza eventos. Em São Paulo, mantém-se a particularidade de juntar representantes de todos os estados do país mais o Distrito Federal, de modo que se possa provar um cardápio diverso, reflexo da riqueza da cozinha partilhada pelos brasileiros. Uma amostra: sanduíche de linguiça conservada na banha de porco, como antigamente; pizza de quatro queijos nacionais (búfala, vaca, cabra e ovelha); munguzá de caramelo, conhecido mais ao sul como canjica.A confeiteira Lisiane Arouca, do Origem, em Salvador, agrega à estrutura clássica desse doce, com leite de coco fresco e milho branco, sorvete de coco verde e farofa de tapioca com licuri, um coquinho típico do Nordeste. Tradição lhe serve de alicerce para criar. Eis outro território, mais fresco e inventivo, no qual o Fartura também transita, com faro e ousadia para identificar jovens expoentes, atentos aos legados da nossa cultura.O goiano Ian Baiocchi está nesse balaio, à frente de quatro restaurantes e de um bufê em sua cidade no Centro-Oeste, depois de experiências substanciosas por casas estreladas como Maní e o catalão El Celler de Can Roca. Em aula, ele falará sobre o tempo por meio de receitas que combinam herança e modernidade, como bombom de queijo maturado na caverna e marmelada de uma comunidade quilombola. Um espeto de bode com farofa de tapioca e creme azedo de nata sertaneja tem carimbo do sergipano Yuri Machado, hoje na liderança de seu Ca-já, no Recife.Depois de rodar o Brasil por um ano na equipe do Cirque du Soleil, voltou-se aos valores da cultura alimentar que o cerca desde a infância.Apoia-se constantemente em elementos como o bode, a nata, o sururu — um pequeno molusco de mangue. Vem do norte de Minas o requeijão moreno envolto por uma broa com creme de milho doce e coxa de frango desossada, de Henrique Gilberto, do Cozinha Tupis, no Mercado Novo, em Belo Horizonte.São de contribuição vital ao Fartura participações como as desse mineiro, cujo trabalho enriquece o tema da sustentabilidade na cozinha, discussão que a plataforma mira elevar, com exemplos inspiradores, de gente que tem transformado conceito em ação. Ao abastecer seu cardápio com insumos do centro belo-horizontino, por exemplo, Gilberto aquece a microeconomia dessa zona. Também se preocupa em promover o uso integral dos ingredientes, missão da qual resultam farinhas de cenoura e molhos engrossados com sangue de galinha. Está às voltas com um projeto de compostar a xepa do mercado em uma favela. O hábito de compostar resíduos orgânicos é antigo no curitibano Quintana, de Gabriela Carvalho, chef paranaense que a equipe do Fartura conheceu na última expedição, em maio. Em seu quintal, ela coleta mel de abelhas nativas, com sabores brutalmente diversos, realçados em suas receitas. Também dedica tempo a estudar feijões, os quais trata como alimento do futuro, tema de sua aula em São Paulo. Condutas sustentáveis, aliás, são iluminadas na programação e também praticadas nos bastidores do festival Fartura: dejeto de óleo é recolhido por associações para reprocessamento; descartáveis, feitos de bagaço de cana, são biodegradáveis; cooperativa credenciada separa e recicla o lixo do evento. Para criar conexões reais entre a cadeia gastronômica, da origem do alimento ao prato, o projeto lança o Receita de Negócios, espaço inédito que estreita laços entre atores do setor e tende a gerar oportunidade de negócios e fomento econômico. Vamos em frente, em favor dessa cozinha brasileira que nasce popular, anônima, com pequenos segredos; que não é só uma e não pertence a um inventor particular. É de todos nós.Festival Fartura – Comidas do Brasil São Paulo Sábado (3), das 12h às 22h, e domingo (4), das 12h às 20h, no Jockey Club São Paulo (av. Lineu de Paula Machado, 1.263, Cidade Jardim). R$ 25 (inteira) e R$ 12 (meia), no primeiro lote. Informações e venda de ingressos: farturabrasil.com.br/blog-festivais/fartura-sao-paulo | comida |
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] | Não era para ser doce de leite, e sim uma bala de mel. Mas um erro ao tentar replicar a receita de sua bisavó, três anos atrás, rendeu à cozinheira Ana Mantegari, 23, um prato novo. Ansiosa, tirou a mistura de leite, açúcar e mel do fogo antes de chegar ao ponto. Sua avó paterna, Yedda, que ajudava a preparar o doce quando criança, provou e aprovou. “É melhor que a bala”, disse.Ana foi, então, à internet para ver se alguém já fazia “doce de leite de mel” —nome que deu à criação. Como não encontrou registros, resolveu empreender. “Pensei: pronto, vou vender isso. O mundo tem que provar.” Visualmente, a sobremesa lembra um doce de leite argentino: escuro, bem encorpado. Na boca, o gosto do mel domina durante os primeiros segundos. Logo, no entanto, há uma reviravolta, e é o sabor do leite cozido com açúcar que sobressai.“O doce de leite tradicional é gostoso, mas você não come de montes”, diz Ana. “O meu é aromático: você sente o cheiro do mel. É um pouco mais suave, mais delicado.” Para tornar o doce menos enjoativo, cortou pela metade a quantidade de açúcar recomendada pela bisavó.A família a ajuda no negócio: a avó prova as receitas e o tio-avô fornece o mel in natura, produzido em sua fazenda em São José dos Campos. No ano passado, veio mel de acácia e, neste ano, silvestre —o sabor não muda, diz ela.Com a cunhada, desenhou o rótulo. De resto, faz tudo sozinha, sem se restringir ao fogão. Ela mesma comprou os potes e bateu na porta de restaurantes e empórios para apresentar seu doce.A estratégia deu certo: seus vidros foram parar nas prateleiras das delicatessens Paca Polaca e da Dëlika, ambas no bairro de Pinheiros, zona oeste de São Paulo. Neste mês, os pontos de venda estão desabastecidos. Ana mudou para Ilhabela em busca de uma cozinha maior e de um ponto comercial. Até então, fazia tudo na própria casa. Chegava a 40 potes por dia —o recorde foram 60, num processo que levou cerca de 18 horas.Para o Fartura, onde estará no Espaço Produtos e Produtores, planeja levar de 120 a 150 potes. Ainda irá oferecer, na mesma quantidade, uma criação mais recente, também tirada dos registros da bisavó: uma ganache de chocolate com mel.Outra receita que nasceu pelo acaso: era para ser uma calda de um pudim de creme de leite. Ana não gostou da sobremesa, mas achou que a cobertura seria uma boa adição ao seu repertório. Hoje, vende as duas criações em proporções iguais. A ganache tem consistência mais firme, amanteigada, e seu sabor é meio amargo, com um toque de mel.A partir das duas bases, a confeiteira testa novos pratos. No rótulo da ganache, por exemplo, há uma receita de chocolate quente que pode ser feita em casa. Já o doce de leite acompanha seu pão de mel. Há ainda um bolo que leva os dois doces: um no recheio, outro na cobertura.Neste mês, vendeu numa feira uma banoffee, sobremesa à base de banana, chantili e doce de leite. E vendeu bem.São todos pratos sem firulas. Ana diz não ser fã de pasta americana ou de docinhos refinados. Sua referência são os doces mineiros. “Gosto dessa pegada rústica, de doces de fruta, de bolos bem recheados, sem grandes decorações.”Quanto à bala de mel, que deu início a tudo, nunca mais tentou fazer. Virou mesmo doce de leite e pronto, diz.Festival Fartura – Comidas do Brasil São Paulo Sábado (3), das 12h às 22h, e domingo (4), das 12h às 20h, no Jockey Club São Paulo (av. Lineu de Paula Machado, 1.263, Cidade Jardim). R$ 25 (inteira) e R$ 12 (meia), no primeiro lote. Informações e venda de ingressos: farturabrasil.com.br/blog-festivais/fartura-sao-paulo | comida |
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] | Nos meus anos na Faculdade de Arquitetura da USP, fascinava-me o potencial humanista de planos arquitetônicos e urbanísticos, mas não engoli que um projeto pudesse, sozinho, resolver problemas sociais sem soluções políticas.Tampouco caía no simplismo oposto, de achar que um projeto pudesse ser a causa das mazelas sociais, como faz o texto de opinião “Vitrine obscena, ponto se firmou no centro de SP embrulhado em marketing”, publicado na Folha por Francesco Perrotta-Bosch no dia 26 de junho. Ele tenta demonstrar que, além de não contribuir para a melhoria da região central, a Casa do Porco, com a perversidade de sua arquitetura e de seus motivos, cruelmente a piora. Puxa, então a arquitetura tem mais poder do que eu imaginava na ingenuidade dos bancos escolares. O artigo cita ainda Z Deli, Orfeu e Tokyo e quase os criminaliza como se fossem um exército higienista e hipócrita, que expulsa impiedosamente os miseráveis de rua e inferniza os moradores ao redor.Sobre a Casa do Porco, relata, com estranha nostalgia, como antes uma esquina era ocupada por “um mercadinho mambembe e, sob sua marquise, dormiam mais de uma dezena de moradores de rua”. E agora, veja só, tem ali um bar que restaurou o imóvel, atrai pessoas que voltam a encontrar no centro uma alternativa de lazer e ainda recebe (talvez ele não saiba) travestis, prostitutas e outros velhos frequentadores da área.Bom samaritano, o comentarista se condói da malvadeza que é exibir nas vitrines comida para gente que mal tem o que comer. Não percebeu que numa cidade onde tanta gente come produtos sem higiene, essa transparência é bem-vinda.O texto pranteia as centenas de moradores do entorno, agora com menos espaço para caminhar devido às mesinhas que o autor admite que existam em Paris, mas não em nossas calçadas acanhadas. Esquece que a lei as permite, desde que com recuos para a circulação de pedestres, como ocorre neste caso.Na boa, será mesmo que os moradores preferem ser vizinhos de imóveis degradados fisicamente e estão revoltados por esbarrar em concidadãos que buscam lazer numa região negligenciada pelo poder público?E, por saber que sem ter de ir a zonas chiques nem desembolsar fortunas, agora podem comer sem gastar tanto pratos de alta qualidade ou, da rua mesmo, pedir para viagem, por R$ 18, um sanduíche feito por um dos melhores restaurantes do mundo?Pela lógica do artigo, a ordem natural das coisas seria esses cruéis proprietários ficarem nos Jardins, com suas ruas mais limpas e seguras, no lugar de incomodar a pacata miséria em que o poder público transforma o centro.Ações individuais não resolvem o problema da degradação urbana e humana. Mas podem ser muito meritórias, não apenas vaidoso marketing. E ainda ajudam a melhorar a vida de muita gente. Fora isso, para resolver mesmo, há de se lembrar (e o comentarista esquece) que, no lugar de condenar essas poucas iniciativas, melhor seria cobrar nossos magnatas e seus governantes que incansavelmente açoitam a cidade.Josimar Melo é crítico de gastronomia da Folha | comida |
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] | O belga Karl De Smedt, 48, tem uma profissão única no mundo: bibliotecário de pães. Ou, para ser mais exato, bibliotecário de massas madres.Para quem não é do meio, vale a breve explicação. Massa madre —ou levain, ou sourdough— é o fermento natural utilizado historicamente para a produção de pães. E, nos últimos anos, seu emprego vem sendo muito valorizado inclusive por aqueles que cultivam a panificação como hobby.Como esse tipo de fermento tem variações de um lugar para o outro, por causa dos micro-organismos presentes na atmosfera ou mesmo pela maneira de seu preparo e cuidados, De Smedt teve há sete anos a ideia de fazer uma biblioteca única para catalogar esse material. Mais Em outubro de 2013, a pequena cidade de Sankt Vith, no interior da Bélgica, inaugurou a primeira e única instituição do mundo dedicada a preservar essas amostras, bem como suas receitas e histórias.O acervo começou com 43 massas madres. Hoje são 122 massas de 21 países. Quatro delas brasileiras —integram a coleção as massas madres das padarias Basilicata, Brico Bread, Benjamin e Cepam, todas de São Paulo.Ao mesmo tempo em que se tornou bibliotecário do pão, De Smedt virou um caçador pelo mundo. “Eu já estive em mais de 50 países em busca de massas madres”, conta ele, em entrevista à Folha.No site da biblioteca, ele incentiva entusiastas do mundo todo a catalogarem suas massas madres, com características e histórias. E, não raras vezes, acaba sendo estimulado a viajar para conhecer essas receitas in loco e, assim, incorporar novas massas ao acervo.Toda a iniciativa é bancada pela multinacional belga de panificação Puratos, empresa da qual De Smedt é funcionário desde 1994.O bibliotecário do pão conta que, quando criança, queria mesmo era ser confeiteiro —e não padeiro. Acabou estudando panificação em Bruxelas e, depois de trabalhar como confeiteiro durante seis anos em uma loja da cidade, viu a oportunidade de ingressar na Puratos.Durante um ano e meio trabalhou na cozinha-laboratório da empresa, realizando testes de produtos. “Foi um período muito interessante. Aprendi muito sobre o processo de cozimento, a influência dos ingredientes. E, acima de tudo, foi meu primeiro contato com a massa madre”, conta ele.Mais tarde ele se juntou a uma equipe internacional da empresa e começou a viajar pelo mundo, conhecendo iniciativas em outros países. De certa forma, era quando, sem que ninguém soubesse, estava entrando no forno o projeto que se tornaria a biblioteca da massa madre.Em 2002, veio o baque. De Smedt se tornou alérgico a farinha. Acabou afastado da cozinha e se converteu ao mundo corporativo. “Passei a criar cursos de treinamentos”, exemplifica.Ele diz que sente falta de fazer pães. “Compenso assando no fim de semana, para a família”, conta ele, que aí toma cuidados para não sofrer com os efeitos da farinha. “Sou alérgico principalmente à farinha de centeio. Evito o máximo que posso. Sinto dificuldades para respirar, uma crise de asma.”No começo deste ano, quando ministrava um workshop para colegas, descuidou-se. “Eles usaram muita farinha de centeio. Foi assustador. Precisei ser levado de ambulância para o hospital”, relata.Em suas andanças pelo mundo, algumas histórias marcaram mais De Smedt pela curiosidade. “O que mais me impressionou até hoje é a história da Corrida de Ouro de Kondike”, relata ele. Sua expedição pode ser vista no vídeo abaixo.Ele viajou para o noroeste do Canadá para conhecer a massa madre cultivada desde a corrida do ouro da região, quando cerca de 100 mil garimpeiros migraram para lá, entre 1896 e 1899. “A massa desempenhou um papel muito importante para a sobrevivência deles”, conta. “Será muito difícil encontrar uma história tão boa.”Considerando as receitas, De Smedt destaca as massas recolhidas em Guadalajara, no México, como uma das mais curiosas. O fermento é refrescado com cerveja, limão e ovos. “Bem inusitado”, comenta. Na Grécia, ele documentou uma receita feita com água de manjericão. E também há uma versão japonesa de massa madre que leva arroz.Ele costuma postar essas curiosidades em sua conta no Instagram. E acompanha com cuidado as hashtags relacionadas ao mundo da panificação natural, ciente de que muita história ainda existe para ser descoberta.No início de julho, Karl De Smedt esteve no Brasil. Em sua quinta visita ao país, participou do evento Taste Tomorrow, realizado pela Puratos no pavilhão da Bienal de São Paulo, no parque Ibirapuera, com acesso restrito a empresários do ramo e a convidados.Orgulho nacional, o pão de queijo —que, tecnicamente, não é um pão, porque prescinde do fermento— já é velho conhecido dele. “Em 1997, fiz muitos deles na Bélgica, pois estávamos desenvolvendo um produto para isso”, lembra. “Eu amo pão de queijo, mas de fato não se trata de uma aplicação de massa madre, a menos que alguém tente desenvolver uma receita para isso. Um novo desafio? Quem está interessado em se juntar a mim nessa busca?”, provoca ele.De Smedt cita as quatro amostras brasileiras que já constam do acervo e antecipa que gostaria de encontrar mais alguma coisa genuinamente brasileira. “Será que não há alguma tribo indígena usando alguma coisa específica? Algo na Amazônia com um processo especial?”, pergunta.A biblioteca da massa madre, assim como um bom fermento, deve crescer bastante ainda. | comida |
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] | Dez anos atrás, a esquina das ruas Araújo e General Jardim tinha um mercadinho mambembe e, sob sua marquise, dormiam mais de uma dezena de moradores de rua. Hoje é o endereço da Casa do Porco, um dos 50 melhores restaurantes do mundo segundo o ranking da revista Restaurant recém-divulgado.Os frequentadores com certeza mudaram. Mas não só devido à qualidade gastronômica e aos valores do menu. A arquitetura tem um papel fundamental nisso.Havia uma parede quase toda fechada e pichada que se voltava para a calçada onde, lado a lado, deitavam pessoas sem abrigo. Na conversão do espaço para restaurante, foram abertas vitrines que permitem aos clientes visualizar a cidade enquanto esperam ou comem seu prato suíno. Ao mesmo tempo, constrange quem antigamente fazia daquela calçada o seu lar. O projeto arquitetônico tem requintes de crueldade na janela da cozinha voltada para a calçada. Ali, os leitões em preparo ficam visíveis para a rua. É um tanto obsceno para os antigos moradores de rua que não podem pagar por um prato no estabelecimento —é igualmente constrangedor para boa parte dos residentes do centro, que também não têm um jantar na Casa do Porco como possibilidade real.O sanduíche de porco vendido numa janelinha na rua Araújo parece a contrapartida para amenizar o ato seguinte do restaurante: ocupar aquela calçada com mesinhas, ampliando o número de lugares para fregueses. A princípio, podemos tomar os cafés de Paris como exemplo e dizer que é positivo para a vitalidade da rua. O problema é que o espaço do pedestre diminuiu e muito. E o infame toldo, aberto para proteger os consumidores da chuva e do sol, acaba por diminuir ainda mais a área que restou.A redução do espaço público pouco afeta a clientela, que, em grande parte, chega de carro, deixa a chave com o manobrista na porta e entra rapidamente no recinto. O estreitamento da calçada incomoda os vizinhos que, diariamente, têm parte do seu caminho mais dificultada.Essa análise só serve para questionar quem está sendo beneficiado pelo surgimento de restaurantes nos arredores da praça da República e na Vila Buarque. A Casa do Porco é o exemplo mais emblemático (e arquitetonicamente extremo) de um fenômeno igualmente visto com a abertura de casas como o Z Deli e o Orfeu e a boate Tokyo.Quem considera que o surgimento desse novo comércio de rua é simbólico da revitalização do centro da cidade não deve ignorar que os moradores de rua saíram da calçada onde fica a Casa do Porco e foram para outro lugar da região central. A manchete deste jornal no último sábado, por exemplo, converte essa percepção em números.Não se trata de impregnar o freguês com culpa social ao comer um porquinho. Um restaurante pode receber todas as láureas internacionais, mas nunca será capaz de transformar o centro de São Paulo. Achar que estabelecimentos de compra podem revitalizar regiões da cidade não passa de um golpe de marketing. | comida |
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] | A Casa do Porco, de Jefferson Rueda, é o único brasileiro na lista dos 50 melhores restaurantes do mundo. "Tudo isso em um lugar improvável, o centro de São Paulo, que é frequentado por pessoas de todas as classes sociais", disse.Com ambiente descontraído, o restaurante é o único da região a alcançar tal reconhecimento. “Cuidamos de toda a cadeia alimentar, da sustentabilidade e da acessibilidade. Fazemos um menu degustação a US$ 30 [R$ 125] para 15 mil pessoas por mês”. O estabelecimento de Rueda ficou na 39ª posição no ranking World's 50 Best, da revista britânica Restaurant. Em 2018, a casa estreou na 79ª posição do ranking.O D.O.M., de Alex Atala, que fica na região dos Jardins, já foi considerado o 4º melhor do mundo, em 2006, mas ficou fora da lista dos primeiros colocados nesta edição. Da 30ª posição, registrada no ano passado, ele desceu para a 54ª. Apesar do nome, a lista vai além da meia centena —neste ano, por exemplo, foram 120 listados. | comida |
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] | Quando você entra no Getaway, um bar estiloso perto da avenida principal de Greenpoint, no Brooklyn, você pode imaginar que vai encontrar ali todos aqueles drinques de Nova York que fazem sucesso no Instagram.As paredes verde e azul são de bom gosto, o espaço é aconchegante o suficiente a ponto de você participar da conversa na mesa vizinha, e o cardápio apresenta uma lista de coquetéis de US$ 13 com ingredientes como xarope de tabaco, groselha e pimenta jalapeño.Há ainda um aviso amistoso dos proprietários comunicando que laptops não são permitidos.Mas há uma diferença crucial entre o Getaway e outros bares do Brooklyn: o Getaway não vende drinques com álcool. Um bar sem bebida alcoólica soa como um paradoxo, como um aquário sem peixe ou uma padaria que não vende pão. Mas em cidades como Nova York e Londres, onde os bares costumam funcionar como uma segunda sala de estar para quem mora em apartamentos com pouco espaço, uma opção de vida noturna sem álcool pode atrair uma clientela que, por algum motivo, prefere não beber.Sam Thonis, coproprietário do bar junto a Regina Dellea, teve a ideia de abrir o Getaway há três anos, quando ele e o irmão, que não bebem, estavam tentando encontrar um lugar para sair à noite."Não havia muitas opções de vida noturna em Nova York que não girassem em torno do álcool ou não estivessem tentando forçar você [a beber] de alguma forma", disse Thonis."Quanto mais eu conversava com as pessoas, mais eu sentia que elas queriam esse tipo de espaço."Em resposta, Thonis e Dellea fizeram do seu bar cuidadosamente um espaço com 0% de álcool, o que significa que nem mesmo cervejas sem álcool, que têm uma quantidade mínima de álcool, são permitidas no cardápio.Nos Estados Unidos, o termo "não alcoólico" pode ser aplicado a bebidas com 0,5% de álcool por volume ou menos, o que significa que muitas cervejas sem álcool famosas na verdade não são totalmente livres da substância."É 0%, tanto quanto for humanamente possível, por isso, se você está sóbrio e isso é um problema para você, ou você nem quer sentir o cheiro de álcool ao seu redor, você estará seguro", esclareceu Thonis.Mas ainda assim o lugar se parece com um bar —só abre à noite, tem pouca luz e ninguém parece estar trabalhando.O Getaway, inaugurado em abril, faz parte de uma onda mundial crescente de casas noturnas que atendem especificamente pessoas que estão evitando o álcool, mas ainda querem sair e socializar em espaços tradicionalmente dominados pela bebida.Nos Estados Unidos, há ainda o Vena's Fizz House, em Portland, e o The Other Side, em Crystal Lake, um subúrbio no estado de Illinois.Em Londres, a rede Redemption Bar, que tem três filiais, além de não vender álcool conta com um cardápio de comida vegana, sem açúcar e sem trigo. Em janeiro, o The Virgin Mary, um pub sem álcool, foi inaugurado em Dublin, na Irlanda.Bares que não vendem álcool não são um conceito novo. No fim do século 19, uma série de bares sem álcool, conhecidos como temperance bars ("bares de temperança") foram estabelecidos no Reino Unido, na esteira do movimento de temperança, que pregava a abstinência.O Temperance Bar de Fitzpatrick, fundado em 1890 em Rawtenstall, ao norte de Manchester, serve ainda hoje cerveja de raiz sem álcool e doses de dandelion and burdock, bebida não alcoólica à base de dente-de-leão e bardana.Mas a diferença em relação à onda atual de bares sem álcool é que eles não estão enraizados na ideia de abstinência total.No Getaway, por exemplo, a clientela não é formada apenas por pessoas que não bebem, mas por qualquer um que queira se divertir em um ambiente de bar sem o risco de acordar de ressaca no dia seguinte."Nada no nosso espaço diz que você precisar ficar sóbrio, ou que você não deve virar a esquina e entrar em outro bar para tomar uma dose de tequila depois que sair daqui", explicou Thonis. "Não é exclusivamente para quem não bebe."Dessa forma, o Getaway dialoga com o movimento que faz com que a geração millennial das grandes cidades reconsidere o papel do álcool em suas vidas.Lorelei Bandrovschi, 32, se enquadra nessa categoria. No ano passado, ela começou a organizar eventos sem álcool, chamados Listen Bar, para pessoas que queriam se divertir sem consumir bebida alcóolica.Ela costumava atuar como consultora para marcas como YouTube e o Museu de Arte Moderna de Nova York, mas agora o Listen Bar é seu trabalho em tempo integral."Os bares são um espaço de relaxamento e fomos levados a acreditar que o álcool precisa fazer parte disso", disse Bandrovschi."É muito libertador criar espaços em que uma festa animada não seja sinônimo de ressaca e memórias fora de foco."Bandrovschi não é abstêmia, mas depois de um mês sem beber ela notou a falta de opções para pessoas que queriam sair com os amigos sem ter de pedir um refrigerante, enquanto todos os outros tomavam drinques elaborados."Acho que a cultura do bar, desde o cardápio aos funcionários e clientes, tende a fazer com que quem não bebe se sinta deslocado", avaliou."Minha filosofia pessoal é de que a bebida deve ser opcional. Para chegar a uma cultura de bebida opcional, em oposição à cultura atual de que beber é a regra, temos de celebrar a escolha de não beber.""Deve haver tanto espaços (para quem não bebe) quanto para quem bebe, espaços que sejam legais e divertidos. Eu queria criar algo que estava faltando, queria muito mudar essa cultura", completou.Essa ideia de que a "bebida deve ser opcional" pode não ser ainda o padrão, mas há indicadores de que os jovens não estão bebendo mais tanto quanto costumavam.Em 2016, entre os adultos com mais de 16 anos entrevistados pelo Escritório Nacional de Estatísticas, o IBGE britânico, apenas 56,9% haviam bebido na semana anterior, o menor percentual já registrado desde que o órgão começou a fazer a pergunta em 2005.Em fevereiro, o International Wine and Spirits Record afirmou que 52% dos adultos americanos estavam tentando ou já haviam tentado reduzir o consumo de álcool.Uma série de artigos sobre tendências recentes sugere que os millennials estão reconsiderando quando e como eles bebem.As vendas de cerveja estão em declínio nos EUA e, embora isso possa significar que os consumidores estão se voltando para outros tipos de bebida, a indústria do álcool respondeu à crise introduzindo mais opções com baixo teor e sem álcool.As bebidas não alcoólicas podem se converter em um grande negócio, inclusive em espaços que não são livres de álcool.Cada vez mais, restaurantes sofisticados incluem opções de bebida sem álcool para acompanhar seus menus, assim como vinhos ou coquetéis."Muitos clientes pediam opções sem álcool e não queriam beber apenas água", disse Chelsea Carrier, diretora de bebidas dos restaurantes O Ya, Covina e The Roof Top, em Nova York.Ela estima que atualmente as bebidas sem álcool correspondam a cerca de 20% dos pedidos e acredita que coquetéis não alcoólicos fazem com que os clientes que não bebem se sintam incluídos."Você pode estar sentado ao lado de alguém que está bebendo uma garrafa de vinho de mais de US$ 1.000, tomar um coquetel sem álcool e sentir que pertence àquele lugar."No Existing Conditions, um bar de Nova York conhecido pelos drinques criativos, os coquetéis sem álcool são um destaque no menu.E, de acordo com o diretor de bebidas Bobby Murphy, são alguns dos itens mais caros que eles oferecem, tanto em termos de ingredientes quanto de mão de obra.Um drinque, o Stingless, leva mel de melipona, produzido por minúsculas abelhas no México, que pode custar US$ 100 o quilo. "Servir só refrigerante já não é mais suficiente", disse Murphy."Quando fazemos drinques sem álcool, queremos que sejam algo que você não vai conseguir encontrar em nenhum outro lugar." Ele estima que de 20% a 30% do total de bebidas vendidas no Existing Conditions são não alcoólicas.Resta saber se a onda de "bares sóbrios" continuará a proliferar e prosperar.Em 2015, um bar que não vende álcool foi desativado após apenas cinco semanas em Auckland, na Nova Zelândia.Mas não há dúvida de que o interesse por bebidas não alcoólicas para adultos está aumentando em toda a indústria —o que torna improvável que despareça em breve.No Getaway, o negócio se manteve estável no último mês. "Todos os dias me preocupo com o fato de que ninguém vai aparecer e, 20 minutos depois, está cheio", contou Dellea.Entre seus clientes, estão vizinhos curiosos, mulheres grávidas e abstêmios, mas os sócios Dellea e Thonis esperam que o apelo do bar seja amplo."Pode ser para todos, mas não precisa ser", diz Thonis. "Há 1 milhão de opções. Se as pessoas não gostam da gente, tudo bem. Elas têm direito. Para quem quiser estar aqui, estamos abertos." | comida |
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] | O restaurante A Casa do Porco, do chef Jefferson Rueda, é o único brasileiro entre os 50 melhores restaurantes do mundo eleitos pela revista britânica Restaurant.O resultado foi anunciado nesta terça-feira (25), durante uma cerimônia em Cingapura. Da 79ª posição, registrada no ano passado, ele subiu para a 39ª.Tido como o “Oscar da gastronomia”, o World’s 50 Best é uma compilação anual. Apesar de se chamar 50 melhores, o ranking vai além da meia centena —neste ano, por exemplo, foram 120 listados. O melhor restaurante do mundo, de acordo com o ranking, é o francês Miranzur. Comandado pelo chef argentino Mauro Colagreco, ele estava em 3º lugar no ano passado Parte da lista já havia sido revelada. Na última terça-feira (18) o prêmio divulgou os últimos colocados —da 51ª posição até a 120ª. Como o restaurante de Rueda não apareceu, já havia uma expectativa da casa de entrar na seleção principal.Inaugurada em outubro de 2015, já com o salão lotado, a casa tem o porco como principal ingrediente. Localizado no centro de São Paulo, o misto de bar e restaurante oferece desde sushi feito com papada de porco até uma interpretação mais delicada do virado à paulista. É o primeiro restaurante da região central da cidade a atingir tal reconhecimento. O estabelecimento de Rueda vai bem à frente das outras casas brasileiras. Antigo habitué do ranking, o D.O.M., do Alex Atala, caiu 24 posições. Da 30ª posição, registrada no ano passado, ele desceu para a 54ª. O D.O.M., que celebra 20 anos em 2019, apareceu na lista da Restaurant pela primeira vez em 2006, em 50° lugar. A melhor marca da casa de Alex Atala foi atingida em 2012, quando ficou em 4º lugar. Outro paulistano da lista, o Maní, da chef Helena Rizzo, subiu do 83º lugar para o 73º. Duas casas do Rio de Janeiro também apareceram na lista. O Lasai, do chef Rafa Costa e Silva, ficou na 74ª posição. Já o restaurante Oteque, do chef Alberto Landgraf, ficou no 100º lugar. É a estreia da casa no ranking. Conheça a lista completa dos 50 melhores restaurantes do mundo1º lugar: Mirazur (Menton, na França)2º lugar: Noma (Copenhague)3º lugar: Asador Etxebarri (Axpe, na Espanha)4º lugar: Gaggan (Bangcoc)5º lugar: Geranium (Copenhague)6º lugar: Central (Lima)7º lugar: Mugaritz (San Sebastian, na Espanha)8º lugar: Arpège (Paris)9º lugar: Disfrutar (Barcelona)10º lugar: Maido (Lima)11º lugar: Den (Tóquio)12º lugar: Pujol (Cidade do México)13º lugar: White Rabbit (Moscou)14º lugar: Azurmendi (Larrabetzu, Espanha)15º lugar: Septime (Paris)16º lugar: Alain Ducasse au Plaza Athénée (Paris)17º lugar: Steirereck (Viena)18º lugar: Odette (Cingapura)19º lugar: Twins Garden (Moscou)20º lugar: Tickets (Barcelona)21º lugar: Frantzén (Estocolmo)22º lugar: Narisawa (Tóquio)23º lugar: Cosme (Nova York)24º lugar: Quintonil (Cidade do México)25º lugar: Alléno Paris au Pavillon Ledoyen (Paris) 26º lugar: Boragó (Santiago)27º lugar: The Clove Club (Londres)28º lugar: Blue Hill at Stone Barns (Pocantico Hills, nos Estados Unidos)29º lugar: Piazza Duomo (Alba, na Itália)30º lugar: Elkano (Getaria, na Espanha)31º lugar: Le Calandre (Pádua, na Itália)32º lugar: Nerua (Bilbao, na Espanha)33º lugar: Lyle’s (Londres)34º lugar: Don Julio (Buenos Aires)35º lugar: Atelier Crenn (San Francisco)36º lugar: Le Bernadin (Nova York)37º lugar: Alinea (Chicago)38º lugar: Hiša Franko (Eslovênia)39º lugar: A Casa do Porco (São Paulo)40º lugar: Tim Raue (Berlim) 41º lugar: The Chairman (Hong Kong)42º lugar: Belcanto (Lisboa)43º lugar: Hof Van Cleve (Kruisem, Bélgica)44º lugar: The Test Kitchen (Cidade do Cabo)45º lugar: Sühring (Bangkok)46º lugar: De Librije (Holanda) 47º lugar: Benu (San Francisco)48º lugar: Ultraviolet by Paul Pairet (Xangai) 49º lugar: Leo (Bogotá) 50º lugar: Schloss Schauenstein (Fürstenau, Suíça) | comida |
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] | As sombrias volutas do centenário porão do Theatro Municipal de São Paulo recebem uma pálida e inesperada luz das mesas fulgurantes do novo Bar dos Arcos. Ali se apinham jovens de classe média alta dos bairros ricos da cidade com passantes da região que relaxam neste patrimônio histórico após o trabalho.Mistura que alegra o criador da casa, Facundo Guerra, 45, artífice de uma tendência iniciada há 15 anos e que se intensifica: a de ocupar regiões antigas e imóveis históricos para entretenimento, bares e restaurantes.Um movimento que não teve um plano calculado. “Quando comecei, não podia ir para Jardins, Vila Madalena, eram caros; a Augusta, no centro, era barata”. Foi lá, em 2005, que criou a boate Vegas, a primeira de mais de dez casas, seis delas ainda na ativa.“E eu gosto é do centro. Desde que cheguei da Argentina, criança, morei em Santa Cecília, e percorria as ruas com meu avô e minha mãe que eram vendedores ambulantes”, lembra.Para além de seus domínios, São Paulo assistiu à recuperação do edifício Altino Arantes (ex-Banespa), hoje centro cultural Farol Santander, com andares dedicados à gastronomia; à instalação, nos altos do Museu de Arte Contemporânea, do restaurante Vista; à migração, para um palacete do centro antigo, do cabaré Casa de Francisca.Fora os planos do próprio Guerra, que inaugurou o clube de jazz Blue Note no Conjunto Nacional, recupera o antigo cine Ipiranga (como clube coletivo de jogos eletrônicos) e, mais ambicioso, planeja ocupar as catacumbas da avenida Paulista, que seriam a pista dos carros (com a superfície somente para pedestres) num projeto abandonado na década de 1970. Blue Note (2019)Filial do famoso clube de jazz de Nova York, foi recém-instalado no histórico terraço que sediou o restaurante Fasano nos anos 1960, num emblemático edifício da Paulista. Tem shows musicais num espaço intimista e gastronomia rememorando um passado recente —drinques clássicos do mestre Derivan, jantares assinados pelo chef Daniel França Pinto (ex-Lola Bistro) com pratos dos anos 1960 e 1970.Onde: Mantendo uma gritante modernidade 60 anos depois de construído, o Conjunto Nacional é um edifício de uso misto e perfeitamente integrado às ruas que o rodeiam. Projetado pelo arquiteto David Libeskind, então com 26 anos, foi inaugurado em 1958 e tombado pelo Condephaat em 2005; sua lâmina horizontal tem sido ocupada por lojas, cinemas, livrarias, restaurantes, enquanto a torre abriga escritórios e residências.Av. Paulista 2.073, 2º andar; facebook.com/bluenotesaopaulo Mais Pipo (2019)O restaurante do Museu da Imagem e do Som acaba de ser assumido pelo premiado chef carioca Felipe Bronze (do Oro), em sua primeira incursão paulistana. Como na matriz do Rio, o Pipo é um local mais informal; seus pratos são imaginativos e buscam retirar sutis sabores da grelha de carvão, mas são concebidos para serem compartilhados, e as mesas do terraço são ainda mais convidativas para uma refeição descontraída.Onde: Apesar de sua importância por sediar um museu cada vez mais popular na cidade, o edifício do MIS está longe de ser uma atração em si. Antiga mansão de gosto duvidoso, desapropriada pelo Estado, ela foi cedida ao museu (que a ocupou em 1975), passando já por várias reformas para adaptá-la ao novo uso —numa delas a entrada foi deslocada para a lateral vizinha ao Museu Brasileiro da Escultura, aí sim uma vista para um projeto relevante (de Paulo Mendes da Rocha).Av. Europa, 158, Jardim Europa; mis-sp.org.brBar dos Arcos (2019)Instalado entre as colunas de pedra e arcos de tijolos, todos aparentes, do subterrâneo do histórico edifício, o bar tem mesas coletivas de tampo luminoso nos vãos do espaço sem tocar as paredes tombadas pelo patrimônio histórico, e música ao vivo com instrumentistas do teatro; ótimos coquetéis e comidinhas para compartilhar.Onde: O Theatro Municipal foi inaugurado em 1911 com projeto de Ramos de Azevedo e dos italianos Cláudio Rossi e Domiziano Rossi. Inspirado na Ópera de Paris com traços renascentistas e barrocos na fachada e um interior luxuoso de mármores, cristais, mosaicos e obras de arte. Recebeu os grandes nomes da música e da dança e foi palco da Semana de Arte Moderna de 1922. A última reforma, em 2011, modernizou o palco, restaurou fachadas e recuperou vitrais e pinturas decorativas.Praça Ramos De Azevedo, s/nº; theatromunicipal.org.br Mais Restaurante Vista/ bar Obelisco (2018)Com uma vista única da cidade, permite apreciar de cima o magnífico conjunto arquitetônico do parque Ibirapuera. Com ambientação que dialoga com a época do modernismo brasileiro, especialmente nos móveis desenhados pelo escritório Prototyp&, o restaurante tem cardápio de pratos inspirado em receitas e ingredientes nacionais assinado pelo chef Marcelo Corrêa Bastos (Jiquitaia); e o bar, drinques criados pelos premiados bartenders Zulu e Jairo Gama.Onde: Fica na cobertura do edifício do Museu de Arte Contemporânea da USP, projetado por Oscar Niemeyer como Palácio da Agricultura, parte do complexo do parque Ibirapuera, inaugurado oficialmente em 1954. De 1959 a 2008 foi sede do departamento estadual de trânsito; restaurado com alterações do arquiteto, em 2012 reabriu como museu.Av. Pedro Álvares Cabral, 1.301; vistasaopaulo.com.br/restauranteBar do Cofre (2019) / Café do Farol (2018)O complexo cultural e de lazer prevê vários pontos gastronômicos. O primeiro a nascer foi o Café do Farol, encarapitado no mirante do edifício (26º andar); tocado pelos cafés Suplicy, fica aberto durante o dia, desde a manhã, tem mesas ao ar livre com vista para a cidade (atração duvidosa, mas...), e serve um farto e concorrido brunch aos sábados e domingos. Este ano foi a vez do Bar do Cofre, no extremo oposto do edifício: fica no subsolo, dentro do antigo e fortificado cofre, que oferece uma ambientação inusitada e interessante —os bons drinques se devem à expertise do bar SubAstor.Onde: Ao comprar o antigo Banco do Estado de São Paulo (Banespa), o banco Santander ficou também com sua antiga sede (edifício Altino Arantes), e a transformou no Farol Santander, um centro cultural e de lazer. Projetado pelo arquiteto Plínio Botelho do Amaral e inaugurado em 1947, o prédio é uma cópia empobrecida do Empire State de Nova York, mas sendo um dos mais altos da cidade, sua silhueta virou um marco de referência no skyline.Rua João Brícola, 24; farolsantander.com.br Mais Balaio (2018)Famoso pela cozinha sertaneja que serve no Mocotó, na zona norte da capital, o chef Rodrigo Oliveira traz para a avenida Paulista interpretações autorais da cozinha brasileira de várias regiões, servidas num ambiente de animação no andar térreo de um dos novos centros culturais paulistanos. No quinto andar há também um café.Onde: A sede paulistana do Instituto Moreira Salles foi inaugurada em 2018, instalada num edifício construído especialmente para sediá-lo. O projeto arquitetônico, que combina transparência com certa imponência, é de autoria do escritório brasileiro Andrade Morettin.Av. Paulista, 2.424; balaioims.com.brZ-Deli IAB (2017)A delicatessen judaica fundada em 1981 ganhou desde 2011 filiais dedicadas a sanduíches —tanto os de pastrami como nas delis novaiorquinas quanto suculentos hambúrgueres. Tocadas pelo chef Julio Raw, a mais recente ocupa o térreo do edifício do Instituto dos Arquitetos do Brasil, no centro. Desenhada por Gabriel Kogan e Guilherme Pianca, foi concebida em harmonia com a transparência do prédio com simpáticas referências (lambris, cadeiras de couro) aos restaurantes dos anos 1950.Onde: Inaugurado em 1951, a sede do IAB São Paulo resultou da fusão dos três times de arquitetos (liderados por Rino Levi, Miguel Forte e Abelardo de Souza) melhores colocados no concurso organizado pela instituição em 1946. Tombado pela primeira vez em 1992, o edifício tem uma modernidade graciosa com seus caixilhos de vidro, seus blocos desalinhados, sua marquise ondulada e seu mezanino em tijolo e pastilhas de vidro.Rua Bento Freitas, 314; zdeli.com.brCasa de Francisca (2017)Nascido num pequeno espaço com shows para quatro dezenas de espectadores, o clube musical e restaurante Casa de Francisca ganhou espaço generoso para um público três vezes maior, e mais conforto para os drinques e jantares ao longos dos shows. Durante o dia serve também almoço, com cardápio inspirado em cozinha trivial e afetiva.Onde: No centro antigo da cidade, nas estreitas ruas nas proximidades da praça da Sé, foi construído em 1910 o Palacete Tereza Toledo Lara, de arquitetura eclética de fachada extravagante marcada por ornamentos e vitrais. Tendo abrigado loja de instrumentos, uma editora musical e a rádio Record, foi conhecida, nos anos 1940, como “a esquina musical de São Paulo”, tradição agora retomada com os shows da Casa de Francisca, que ocupou seu segundo andar depois que o edifício, tombado pelo patrimônio histórico, passou por grande reforma.Rua Quintino Bocaiuva, 22; casadefrancisca.art.br Mais Café Martinelli Midi (1993)Servindo bom café e pratos de bistrô, o lugar tem ambientação e mobiliário (incluindo peças autênticas) dos anos 1920, no térreo do edifício de 30 andares que foi o primeiro arranha-céu da cidade, inaugurado em 1929 com projeto do arquiteto húngaro William Fillinger.Rua Líbero Badaró, 508; cafemartinellimidi.com.brPrêt no MAM (2003)Restaurante com pratos internacionais servidos em bufê, com vista envidraçada para o parque Ibirapuera e seu Jardim de Esculturas; o edifício para exposições, de 1959, foi desenhado por Lina Bo Bardi e Martim Gonçalves, e desde 1968 é sede do Museu de Arte Moderna.Marquise do parque Ibirapuera; mam.org.brBar da Dona Onça (2008)Um dos pioneiros do movimento de recuperação do centro da cidade, fica no térreo do icônico Copan, sinuoso edifício de uso misto projetado por Oscar Niemeyer e inaugurado em 1966. A chef Janaina Rueda serve pratos inspirados na cozinha trivial paulistana.Av. Ipiranga, 200, cj. 27; bardadonaonca.com.br Mais Santinho - Instituto Tomie Ohtake (2011), Museu da Casa Brasileira (2013) e Theatro Municipal (2015)Restaurantes com serviço de bufê e pratos baseados na culinária brasileira, a cargo da chef Morena Leite (Capim Santo). O edifício do Tomie Ohtake (2001) é de Ruy Ohtake. O restaurante tem ainda uma unidade no Museu da Casa Brasileira (av. Brigadeiro Faria Lima, 2.705), projetado nos anos 1940, como residência do prefeito paulistano Fábio da Silva Prado, por Wladimir Alves de Souza, segundo os traços do Palácio Imperial de Petrópolis, e uma no Theatro Municipal.Av. Brigadeiro Faria Lima, 201 (Tomie Ohtake); restaurantesantinho.com.brCaffè Ristoro (2013)Guloseimas e pratos italianos servidos em agradáveis mesas no jardim do Museu Casa das Rosas, instalado na antiga residência da filha do arquiteto Ramos de Azevedo, cujo escritório a projetou em estilo francês e a construiu, sendo concluída em 1935.Av. Paulista, 37; cafferistoro.com.brCantina do Museu (2017)Tocado pelo mesmo chef do Hospedaria (também na região da Mooca), Fellipe Zanuto, o restaurante fica no Museu da Imigração, num edifício de 1887 tombado pelo Patrimônio Histórico, que ganha vida especialmente com os brunches do final de semana.Rua Visconde de Parnaíba, 1.316; cantinasp.com.br Mais | comida |
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] | Nos campos planos que compõem a Campanha Gaúcha, costuma-se dizer que a região tem alma braguaia —meio brasileira, meio uruguaia.Fácil entender. Seus 12 municípios, de Candiota a Uruguaiana, formam uma faixa colada à fronteira com o Uruguai. Por ali, não é raro ouvir o espanhol misturado ao português.Pois esse território de clima temperado como o país vizinho, com solo arenoso na porção oriental e argiloso na banda continental, desponta como a grande promessa para a vitivinicultura brasileira —e já tramita no Instituto Nacional de Propriedade Industrial o processo de obtenção do selo de Indicação Geográfica para os vinhos da Campanha Gaúcha.Situada no Paralelo 31, mesma latitude de importantes regiões vinícolas da Argentina, Chile, África do Sul e Austrália, a Campanha tem superado a Serra Gaúcha na produção de uvas tintas, especialmente das variedades cabernet sauvignon e tannat. “Nessa faixa, o período mais chuvoso não acontece no verão, quando é feita a colheita, mas no nosso inverno. Com isso, colhem-se uvas de maior qualidade”, explica Arthur Piccolomini de Azevedo, vice-presidente da ABS-SP (Associação Brasileira de Sommeliers) .O volume de vinho produzido nos pampas ainda é baixo. De acordo com o Cadastro Vinícola, realizado pelo Instituto Brasileiro do Vinho em parceria com a Embrapa, a Campanha Gaúcha elaborou, em 2018, 5,6 milhões de litros de vinho, o que representa apenas 14,56% de toda a produção do Rio Grande do Sul.Mas o entusiasmo de grandes e pequenos produtores indica que a região deve estourar em pouco tempo. “Como o clima é mais regular, conseguimos melhor resultado na maturação, o que favorece a produção de vinhos de guarda. A cada 10 safras, 8 são excepcionais”, afirma Adriano Miolo, diretor e enólogo do Miolo Wine Group, que mantém 650 hectares de vinhedos na Campanha.Mais da metade deles pertence à Almadén, que a Miolo adquiriu em 2009. Primeira a se instalar nos pampas, nos anos 1970, a vinícola trabalha para recuperar a imagem e se reposicionar no mercado de vinhos finos –seu rótulo mais nobre, o Vinhas Velhas Tannat 2015, custa R$ 168,63 no ecommerce da marca. Outro gigante que fincou pé na região da fronteira, a Salton lança em maio o rótulo Domenico Campanha Gaúcha. Corte das uvas marselan e tannat, o vinho é o primeiro inteiramente produzido na unidade de Santana do Livramento e chegará ao mercado custando em torno de R$ 90.“A Campanha tem maior quantidade de dias com sol e o vento não encontra barreiras em função do relevo, fatores que garantem a sanidade das uvas”, elogia o enólogo Gregório Salton.A região também foi escolhida pelo apresentador esportivo Galvão Bueno. Fundada em 2010, a Bueno Wines produz 12 rótulos de vinho e um de azeite –outra cultura que adquire cada vez mais expressão na Campanha.Grandes vinícolas, porém, são exceção por ali. Entre as cerca de 20 já instaladas, a maioria é pequena, tem administração familiar e produz lotes reduzidos a cada safra, entre 20 mil e 100 mil litros anuais –as chamadas vinícolas-boutique.Algumas têm infraestrutura própria, vinificam seus vinhos em casa e recebem turistas regularmente.É o caso da Guatambu, conduzida pela família Pötter em Dom Pedrito; da Campos de Cima, que os Ayub comandam em Itaqui; da Cordilheira de Sant’Ana, do casal de enólogos Gladistão Omizzolo e Rosana Wagner; e da Peruzzo, em Bagé, que leva o sobrenome dos proprietários.Outras são ainda menores e, como não dispõem de equipamentos, vinificam as uvas em propriedades de terceiros. Entre elas está a Estância Paraizo, de Bagé, onde a família Mercio foi pioneira no cultivo de uvas shiraz.Há até quem já produza vinho, mas ainda não possa comercializá-lo. Comandada pela uruguaia Cíntia Megget, a Pueblo Pampeiro, em Santana do Livramento, percorre há dois anos os labirintos da burocracia para engarrafar e vender sua produção.Enquanto a papelada não sai, Cíntia investe no enoturismo, recebendo visitantes que pagam para almoçar nos jardins da vinícola, e desenvolve seus vinhedos.Sob os cuidados do enólogo uruguaio Javier Michelena, estão em teste na Pueblo Pampeiro castas praticamente desconhecidas no Brasil, como a gamaret e a saperavi.Na opinião de Azevedo, da ABS-SP, é de se esperar que a Campanha Gaúcha supere as expectativas nos próximos anos.“Sem dúvida é nosso melhor terroir para uvas. Existe um consenso de que o futuro do vinho brasileiro está lá.” Almadén Comprada pela Miolo Wine Group, a vinícola de Santana do Livramento passou a produzir vinhos finos em larga escala. O rótulo Vinhas Velhas Tannat 2015 custa R$ 168,63 (loja.miolo.com.br). Batalha Vinhas & Vinhos Acaba de inaugurar uma nova planta de 600 m², em Candiota, com o objetivo de dobrar a produção, atualmente de 50 mil garrafas/ano. O varietal Batalha Cabernet Sauvignon é vendido por R$ 56,13 (bebidasdosul.com.br).Bodega Sossego Além de cuidar da vinícola, o proprietário René Ormazabal Moura mantém um bar de vinhos em Porto Alegre, o Vineria1976, cuja carta privilegia os vinhos da Campanha Gaúcha. O branco Campaña Chardonnay 2014 sai por R$ 78 (terrunyo.com.br).Bueno Wines Localizada em Candiota, a vinícola pertence ao apresentador Galvão Bueno. O Bueno Anima Gran Reserva Merlot 2015, lote com apenas 3.000 garrafas numeradas, recebeu medalha de prata no Concurso Internacional de Vinos Bacchus Awards, realizado em março, na Espanha. Preço: R$ 563,80 (buenowines.com.br).Campos de Cima Hortência Ayub e as filhas, Vanessa e Manuela, estão à frente da vinícola, com sede em Itaqui. Os 16 hectares de vinhedos dão conta da produção anual, de 100 mil litros. O tinto 3 Bocas 2018, corte das castas Tempranillo, Malbec e Tannat, sai por R$ 68 (vinhosevinhos.com).Cordilheira de Sant’Ana Os enólogos Gladistão Omizzolo e Rosana Wagner são os proprietários da vinícola, que possui 20 hectares plantados em 2000. O tinto varietal Cordilheira de Sant’Ana Tannat custa R$ 128,70 (winerie.com).Dunamis O engenheiro agrônomo José Antônio Peterle, nascido na Serra Gaúcha, cultiva uvas tintas em Dom Pedrito. O varietal Dunamis Merlot 2012 sai por R$ 63,50 (vinhosevinhos.com).Estância Paraizo Fundada em 1790, a fazenda da família Mercio, em Bagé, assumiu vocação vinícola em 2000 –são apenas cinco hectares plantados com as variedades cabernet sauvignon e shiraz. O tinto Don Thomaz y Victoria Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 sai por R$ 93,50 (vinhosevinhos.com).Guatambu Valter Pötter e a filha, Gabriela, produzem 100 mil garrafas por ano. Entre os 22 rótulos, boa parte é numerada. O Rastros do Pampa Tannat 2018, vendido a R$ 61,50, foi eleito o melhor tinto nacional pelo Guia Descorchados 2019, lançado em 9 de abril (vinhosevinhos.com).Nova Aliança A cooperativa, que engloba diversos pequenos produtores, concentra a produção de vinhos finos em Santana do Livramento. O tinto Aliança Cerro da Cruz Tannat 2012 vale R$ 92,50 (vinhosevinhos.com).Peruzzo Clori Peruzzo, que preside a Associação dos Produtores de Vinhos Finos da Campanha Gaúcha, toca a vinícola familiar com 15 hectares de vinhedos. Os 15 rótulos somam 70 mil litros/ano. O tinto Peruzzo Cabernet Franc 2013 vale R$ 49,90 (vinhosesabores.com.br).Routhier & Darricarrère Os irmãos franceses Pierre e Jean Daniel Darricarrère se associaram ao canadense Michel Routhier para produzir vinhos em Rosário do Sul. O branco Província de São Pedro Chardonnay 2014 é encontrado por R$ 65,70 (cavenacional.com.br).Salton Na vinícola de Santana do Livramento, a empresa processa uvas de 140 hectares de produtores parceiros. O rótulo Intenso Pinot Noir é vendido por R$ 35 (selecaoadega.com.br).Seival/Miolo Wine Group Localizada em Candiota, tem 200 hectares de vinhedos próprios e dedica-se à produção de vinhos de alto valor agregado. O Sesmarias 2018, corte das uvas cabernet sauvignon, merlot, petit verdot, tannat, tempranillo e touriga nacional, custa R$ 423,24 (loja.miolo.com.br).Vinhética Em uma pequena propriedade com 3,5 hectares de videiras, o enólogo francês Gaspar Desurmont e a carioca Graciela Bittencourt produzem queijos, embutidos e vinhos. O tinto Terroir d’Élegance 2017, que mescla as uvas cabernet franc, cabernet sauvignon, tannat, teroldego e ancellota, sai por R$ 95 (cavenacional.com.br). | comida |
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] | O Brasil levou, na noite desta sexta (10), 22 distinções em uma competição internacional de azeite de oliva em Nova York, EUA, que avaliou produtos de 26 países. Foram oito medalhas de ouro, duas de prata e um Best in Class, prêmio dado a apenas um representante por categoria que atinge a faixa mais alta de pontuação —diferente das medalhas, que podem ser distribuídas a mais de um colocado. O país também recebeu 11 medalhas de bronze. Entre as marcas, estão os gaúchos Prosperato (medalha de ouro com o monovarietal da azeitona koroneiki; Best in Class com o blend premium), Verde Louro (medalhas de ouro com os monovarietais das azeitonas arbequina, arbosana e koroneiki), Costa Doce (dois blends com medalha de ouro e prata e um monovarietal koroneiki medalha de ouro) e Olivas do Sul (blend vencedor da medalha de prata). Há também dois representantes de Minas Gerais na New York Olive Oil Competition: o Irarema (medalha de ouro) e o Casa Mantiva (com um blend medalha de ouro).Apenas 18 países receberam a distinção Best in Class —França, EUA, Argentina e Grécia, por exemplo, não estavam entre eles.O Brasil tem menos participantes do que países com uma trajetória mais longa de produção, mas teve um bom desempenho: foram premiadas 11 marcas de 14 competidores. A Espanha, um dos maiores produtores mundiais, teve 154 participantes e levou 113 premiações. A produção brasileira (concentrada no Sul do país e na serra da Mantiqueira, entre São Paulo e Minas Gerais) é pequena, mas ganha fôlego a cada ano. "As regiões produtoras de azeite estão mudando no mundo. Algumas áreas tradicionais estão tendo dificuldades com a mudança climática. Já outras partes do Mundo Novo, como Brasil e Argentina, vêm recebendo reconhecimento internacional", afirma Curtis Cord, presidente da New York International Olive Oil Competition.O evento avaliou azeites em 24 categorias, usando um sistema de pontos para identificar características sensoriais e gustativas.Jurados de 13 países —incluindo o brasileiro Sandro Marques— fizeram a avaliação do azeite. | comida |
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] | Um dos guias de gastronomia e hotéis mais famosos do mundo, o francês Michelin, anunciou nesta segunda (6) sua edição 2019 no Brasil.Conhecida pela capa vermelha, a publicação ganhou três novos restaurantes com uma estrela, o paulistano Evvai e os cariocas Cipriani e Oteque. Não houve novidade na categoria duas estrelas e o país segue sem ter um esperado representante com a classificação máxima, três. Além disso, os restaurantes Fasano e Dalva e Dito, em São Paulo, deixaram a lista, que reúne 18 endereços estrelados no total —três com duas estrelas e 15 com uma.Já a categoria Bib Gourmand, que elege estabelecimentos de “excelente relação qualidade/preço”, lista 32 opções. Estrearam aqui A Baianeira, Balaio IMS, Barú Marisqueria, Corrutela e Komah, em São Paulo. No Rio, foram as casas Lilia e Pici Trattoria. Em 2018, o destaque ficou com os restaurantes Tuju, do chef Ivan Ralston, e Oro, do chef Felipe Bronze, que receberam a segunda estrela —e igualaram-se ao D.O.M., de Alex Atala.Para fazer a avaliação, os inspetores do guia visitam anonimamente as casas, avaliando receitas com base em cinco critérios. São eles: qualidade do ingrediente, personalidade da cozinha, técnicas de cozimento e harmonia de sabores, custo-benefício e regularidade.As cotações podem ser três estrelas (cozinha excepcional), duas estrelas (excelente) e uma estrela (requintada). Além disso, os endereços também podem ser destacados como Bib Gourmand (excelente relação qualidade/preço) e o Prato Michelin (cozinhas de qualidade a preços moderados).O guia foi criado pelos irmãos Edouard e André Michelin em 1900, na França, com informações de onde abastecer e consertar o carro, onde comer e se hospedar. A edição brasileira é a primeira da América do Sul.Além da publicação e do site, a lista de casas premiadas pode ser consultada em um aplicativo (compatível com IOS e Android).Duas estrelas D.O.M. (SP) Oro (RJ) Tuju (SP)Uma estrela Cipriani (RJ) - novo Evvai (SP) - novo Oteque (RJ) - novo Huto (SP) Jun Sakamoto (SP) Kan Suke (SP) Kinoshita (SP) Kosushi (SP) Lasai (RJ) Maní (SP) Mee (RJ) Olympe (RJ) Picchi (SP) Ryo (SP) Tangará Jean-Georges (SP)Perderam a estrela Dalva e Dito Fasano Bib Gourmand (bom e barato) A Baianeira (SP) Balaio IMS (SP) Barú Marisqueria (SP) Corrutela (SP) Komah (SP) Lilia (RJ) Pici Trattoria (RJ)Também integram essa categoria endereços como A Casa do Porco (SP) , Artigiano (RJ), Arturito (SP) , Jiquitaia (SP), La Peruana Cevicheria (SP), Manioca (SP) , Miam Miam (RJ), Mocotó e Pomodorino (RJ)Colaborou Marina Consiglio | comida |
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] | Na casa da chef paranaense Manu Buffara, tem um mapa do mundo enorme pendurado na parede, com marcações coloridas. Amarelo e vermelho ajudam as filhas, de 2 e 4 anos, a identificar onde a mãe está e para onde a mãe vai.Uma florista vizinha ao seu restaurante, em um bairro nobre de Curitiba, a abraça enquanto diz “Está international, hein?”. Decerto espalhou-se o frisson gerado em torno da notícia de que Manoella Buffara, 35, vai abrir em agosto um negócio em Nova York, com dois sócios americanos. Aqui, tem o Manu; lá, terá o Ella.O novo restaurante é reflexo da projeção intensa e crescente que a chef tem tido fora do Brasil. Virou habitual em sua agenda cozinhar com personalidades como Dominique Crenn, primeira mulher a ganhar cotação máxima no Michelin nos Estados Unidos, que a abordou a primeira vez para um convite via Instagram. Manu, que no ano passado foi agraciada com o prêmio One to Watch, do 50 Best, que reconhece seu restaurante como o mais promissor da temporada na América Latina, também tem participado com frequência de congressos e ministrado palestras em instituições célebres, como Culinary Institute of America e Basque Culinary Center, em San Sebastián, na Espanha, ao lado dos chefs mais premiados do mundo, como o italiano Massimo Bottura e os irmãos Rocca.“É uma forma de conhecerem meu trabalho. Não estou no Rio ou em São Paulo, é difícil as pessoas virem a Curitiba”, diz Manu, que enxerga no Ella outra oportunidade de fazer o mesmo. Para Nova York ela pretende transportar, grosso modo, a filosofia da cozinha da Manu, “que é uma mulher, do sul do país, e que usa o máximo de produtos de um raio de 300 quilômetros”. Pode-se fazer comida brasileira fora do país? “Eu consigo expressar minha cozinha em outros lugares. O que importa é ser um líder, compartilhar, formar pessoas.” E então relembra o francês Alain Ducasse, que manteve suas estrelas espalhadas pelo mundo mesmo da cama, à época de um acidente. Mais palpável será a utilização de técnicas que Manu identifica com o Brasil —a folha de bananeira para proteger o peixe na cocção, a brasa, os caldos na panela de barro. Ainda que alguns pratos se repitam cá e lá, como o nhoque de fígado de galinha e batata-doce acomodado em um caldo límpido de coração de cordeiro e pele de porco, o que a move é a essência do que faz, um jeito de se relacionar com os ingredientes e de combiná-los que resulta em uma cozinha delicada, inventiva, sensível à natureza e ao ser humano. Irá construir, portanto, contato com os trabalhadores rurais americanos e está excitada com a possibilidade de conhecer produtos, expandir sua criatividade e fazer adaptações em algumas receitas de coleções passadas da casa curitibana. O preparo do tempurá de espinafre com fígado de tamboril, por exemplo, sofre uma mutação no novo território: passa a ser feito com folha de shisô com redução de casca de marisco e água, sob foie gras ralado. “Nunca pensei em abrir um restaurante em Nova York, mas para mim é muito mais extasiante do que fazer a minha cozinha em São Paulo, onde haveria uma limitação de clientes e ingredientes, em relação ao que eu já faço em Curitiba.” O sonho de Manu, aliás, está distante de um centro urbano cosmopolita. Ela pretende em dois, três anos transportar seu restaurante para uma chácara na área metropolitana de Curitiba e desenvolver um projeto de troca de conhecimento, que abranja não só profissionais de cozinha. “Quero ter minhas galinhas, abrir três vezes na semana e que meus funcionários possam trabalhar mais no campo e na criação e menos no estresse de um restaurante. Quero envolver crianças.” Dominique Crenn diz que é preciso inspirar os outros para fazer a diferença. Manu observa no cozinheiro um grande poder, “que ele não sabe utilizar”. “As pessoas pensam só em seus próprios restaurantes. O cliente chega, come, e daí? O que você está fazendo para a comunidade?”, diz ela, que vê na educação, sua mais impactante contribuição. “É muito bonito falar que você usa ingredientes do pequeno produtor, mas ninguém foi lá ensinar o que pode ser melhor cultivado na terra dele.” Hoje, diz Manu, quem usa maior quantidade de agrotóxico no Brasil são os pequenos produtores. “Por quê? Porque eles precisam de dinheiro, não podem perder o que produzem e ninguém ensina como combater pulgão.” A chef se dedica à educação e também ao aprendizado —observa atentamente os hábitos das comunidades. “É preciso ter tempo para as pessoas. Conversar, escutar.” Seu ofício, aliás, surge apoiado no tempo e no tato. “Cozinha é tempo. De cultivo, de cozimento. Animais e vegetais morrem por você. Precisa respeitá-los, saber esperar, ter paciência, não errar uma cocção porque quer ser imediatista”, diz, enérgica. “Minha avó [materna] sempre me ensinou a tocar na comida. Tenho mania de pegar as coisas na mão, cheirar, mordê-las cruas”, segue Manu, que cresceu em uma fazenda nas cercanias de Maringá influenciada pelo pai agrônomo, a abater animais, fazer queijo, tomar leite que ela mesma ordenhava, ainda quente. Da família da mãe, de Paranaguá, no litoral paranaense, absorveu a intimidade com os peixes e os frutos do mar. Refere-se amiúde ao passado familiar e, com graça, às suas aventuras da adolescência e da juventude. Viagens internacionais, nas quais estudou inglês, mochilou no Alasca de carona, atendeu Bill Gates em um hotel nas proximidades de Seattle e desossou frangos e mais frangos com o peso do próprio corpo para lhes quebrar os ossos —"depois, cortei na lateral como se fosse uma roupa, sabe? [risos]”. Ainda que tenha se formado em jornalismo, enveredou para cozinha desde a largada. Hoje, pratica ioga diariamente, corrida, meditação. Frequenta a igreja católica todos os domingos com a família. E, sem tempo, pinta o cabelo e afins em casa, com a ajuda da babá das filhas. No início da carreira, também passou pelo dinamarquês Noma, eleito primeiro do mundo sucessivas vezes pela revista inglesa “Restaurant”, e no americano Alinea, do chef Grant Achatz, já reconhecido como o melhor dos Estados Unidos. Aprendeu a escolher camarões vivos, a abrir algas, a defumar ovos. Diz que cozinha, porém, pensando no futuro. “Temos de passar às crianças o quão importante é o bom alimento”, prega Manu, que acredita que a gastronomia vive ciclos de modismos. “Por que agora tomar leite integral é ruim? Desde quando é ruim tomar leite de vaca? O pão que tua avó faz, põe no forno a lenha, é ruim porque engorda? Estamos transmitindo informações muito erradas.” Para ela, chefs e indústria precisam se entender e é preciso ressignificar a ida ao supermercado. “A gente não precisa estocar alimento. Hoje o mundo produz 50% a mais do que necessita. Se você compra, a indústria produz mais. Quem está errado?”, provoca. “Se você entrar na despensa de uma família de classe média tem comida para um mês.” Manu reforça, inclusive, a importância de o feirante também ter consciência, desfazer o maço de cenoura, cortar o cacho de banana, para não gerar desperdício na casa de quem compra. “No Manu, a gente compra uma batata-doce”, fala pausadamente, u-m-a. E qual é a cozinha do futuro? “É a que já está acontecendo, mais simples, com mais vegetais e grãos. A gente pode ver isso claramente nas cozinhas populares. No restaurante da Prefeitura aqui de Curitiba o prato de R$ 1,50 tem uma proteína, arroz, feijão, dois legumes e salada, uma quente e uma fria. Não vamos deixar de consumir carne, mas acho que vamos comer com mais consciência.”A dedicação de Cândido, personagem de Voltaire (1694-1778), e sua amante ao cultivo do solo e aos cuidados com a horta injetaram-lhes ânimo —recuperaram-se da depressão.Também é na horta que o francês Michel Bras, 72, considerado um dos maiores cozinheiros do mundo, encontra seu paraíso.Manu Buffara, que o tem como referência, enxerga as hortas urbanas de Curitiba, projeto da prefeitura do qual participa, que começou em 2004 com quatro famílias, e hoje beneficia mais de 3.000, como uma forma de comunidades carentes "viverem novamente"."Tem um senhor de oitenta e poucos anos, cego de um olho, que sai todos os dias de casa e anda seis quilômetros até a horta com sua carriola, feliz da vida."Por meio do programa Horta do Chef, finalista da maior premiação de cidades inteligentes do mundo, a própria Manu tem permissão para usufruir das hortas —a maior tem 13 mil metros quadrados e cem famílias envolvidas.Instalada em um antigo terreno baldio cedido pela Eletrosul em Tatuquara, o bairro mais mais pobre e periférico de Curitiba, ela colhe semanalmente quase todas as ervas, brotos, hortaliças e tubérculos que usa em seu restaurante."Os chefs fazem parte porque é bom. A gente tem manjericão, tomilho, cenoura, beterraba", diz Delso Moretti, 50, presidente da associação dos moradores do Rio Bonito e coordenador da horta, cujas regras básicas são não mexer na horta alheia, nem usar agrotóxico, plantar e limpar.Alimentação saudável e subsistência das famílias são os pilares do projeto, que também abrange uma roça, onde se planta feijão, milho e árvores frutíferas. A maioria destas últimas foram doadas pelo Fru.to, seminário internacional criado por Alex Atala, que apadrinhou Manu Buffara desde o início da carreira da chef."O excesso de produção é liberado para doação e para vender, pode até dar uma pequena renda", diz Moretti. Para Manu, o essencial é a troca de informação promovida ali. "Não é só plantar alface, a gente desenvolve a comunidade", diz a chef, que também introduz sementes e mudas de itens novos no espaço."Ela ensina que podemos preparar casca de banana à milanesa, como um bife, que podemos fazer um suco de couve, limão e folhinhas de hortelã e tomar no lugar de cachaça e cerveja [risos]", diz o horteleiro Mario Roik, 49, dispensado de seu trabalho no transporte público pela idade.Diante de problemas para conseguir esterco, Moretti ensinou a obter adubo com compostagem própria. "Esse é o resultado, olha" —e pega um punhado de terra preta, úmida e fresca nas mãos para mostrar."O trevo a gente jogava fora. Para nós, era praga, a Manu ensinou que é luxo. Da rúcula, a gente comia só a folha e ela pediu para deixarmos a flor", diz Moretti. "Com as flores, que é melhor salada que a folha, começou a vir borboleta de tudo quanto é qualidade na hora do sol quente, uma coisa linda." | comida |
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] | Para quem quer fugir dos tradicionais pratos com bacalhau neste feriado de Páscoa, a chef Katia Lyra, da Casa Cuca, ensina uma receita de namorado em crosta sobre pupunha assado e creme de cará com manteiga de cúrcuma.Veja abaixo como preparar o prato.NAMORADO DE PÁSCOA- 400 gramas de lombo de namorado - 2 pedaços de palmito pupunha fresco cortados ao meio - ½ limão siciliano (suco) - Sal a gosto - 2 colheres de sopa de azeite extravirgem Para a crosta: - ½ xícara de chá de castanha de caju pilada grosseiramente - ½ xícara de chá de pão adormecido torrado - 2 colheres de sopa de manteiga - 1 colher de sobremesa de raspas de limão siciliano - 1 colher de chá de alho ralado - 1 colher de parmesão ralado finoPrepare a crosta com o pão adormecido, a castanha de caju pilada, o parmesão, o alho, as raspas de limão e a manteiga em ponto de pomada. Misture com a ponta dos dedos até que a manteiga se incorpore e a mistura vire uma farofa bem amanteigada. Reserve.Divida o lombo do namorado em dois pedaços, tempere com o sal, o suco do limão siciliano e o azeite. Faça o mesmo com os pedaços de palmito pupunha. Perto da hora de servir, posicione os pedaços de pupunha numa assadeira ou travessa refratária de forma que eles façam uma base. Pouse os pedaços de peixe em cima deles.Em seguida, pegue com as mãos um pouco da farofa, aperte como se fosse fazer "bolinhos" e distribua por cima dos pedaços de peixe. Leve ao forno preaquecido a 180°C por aproximadamente 20 minutos.A manteiga da farofa deve derreter sobre o peixe e a crosta deve ficar dourada e crocante.- 2 xícaras de cará cozido e amassado - 1 xícara de creme de leite fresco - ½ xícara de manteiga clarificada (pode-se substituir por ghee ou manteiga de garrafa) - 2 colheres de sobremesa de cúrcuma fresco ralado - 1 colher de sobremesa de gengibre ralado - 1 colher de sobremesa de suco de limão siciliano - Sal a gostoAqueça a manteiga clarificada em fogo baixo e deixe aromatizar com o cúrcuma e o gengibre por uns 10 minutos ainda no fogo. No final, acrescente o suco do limão e o sal e deixe tingir por cerca de 20 minutos fora do fogo. Coe com uma peneira bem fina para retirar os resíduos do cúrcuma e do gengibre e reserve.Numa panela misture o purê do cará amassado com a manteiga, o creme de leite e tempere com o sal a gosto. O purê deve ficar bem lisinho e cremoso.Por fim, monte os pratos com o creme de cará no fundo e pouse delicadamente as pupunhas com o peixe assado. Pode ser acompanhado por legumes coloridos da estação.Na foto foram usados tomates inteiros levemente assados com azeite e ervilhas tortas salteadas. Decore como agradar, sem moderação nas ervas frescas.CASA CUCA Rua Croata, 366 - Vila Ipojuca, São Paulo | comida |
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] | A chef capixaba Angelita Gonzaga desembarcou em São Paulo, onde mora e comanda seu restaurante Arimbá, na Pompeia, com uma mala cheia de siris. Trouxe os animais da Ilha das Caieiras, um bairro periférico de Vitória, no Espírito Santo, no qual famílias tiram sustento da pesca e da atividade de desfiar o crustáceo.Ele geralmente é retirado do mar nas cercanias do mangue com puçás —semelhantes a uma peneira, com uma rede presa a um aro. Em terra, o restante do trabalho é reservado às mulheres, que lavam, aferventam e quebram as carapaças do animal com martelo para separar a carne.Branca e de sabor suave, irá protagonizar a salada que abre um jantar embalado por bate-papo sobre siris nesta quinta (28), no lançamento da série Saberes e Comeres de uma Capixaba, que Angelita passa a promover uma vez ao mês com temas ligados à alimentação.No Espírito Santo, também cabe às mulheres o ofício das paneleiras de goiabeiras. Nessas panelas de barro, feitas com base no saber indígena e em instrumentos rudimentares e queimadas ao ar livre, Angelita servirá uma moqueca de siri mole —este trazido pela Cerrado Carnes do sul, de praias praticamente virgens de Santa Catarina.Popularmente conhecido como siri azul, vive submerso na água salobra em estuários com entrada de água doce e é pescado artesanalmente em pequenos barcos com um pescador, segundo André Theiss, engenheiro agrônomo especializado na produção de peixes.À medida que cresce, o crustáceo faz trocas de carapaça. É nesse momento em que se obtém o siri mole, integralmente comestível, de forma controlada em tanques depois da pesca. Sua carne branca e delicada, com textura de um filé de peixe, chega a ser mais cara que a lagosta nos Estados Unidos.Para Theiss, essa produção jamais terá escala industrial. Não pela perenidade —são animais com alta reprodutibilidade, cada fêmea pode ter 20 milhões de ovas—, mas por depender de pequenas embarcações e desse monitoramento ininterrupto dos crustáceos nos tanques.Ainda que haja uma oferta restrita, sujeita a estoque, e seja pouco conhecido no mercado, o restaurante Aizomê, em São Paulo, serve a iguaria desde que abriu, há 12 anos.Diante de sua nobreza, Telma Shiraishi o mantém íntegro em dois preparos —ambos delicadamente empanados e fritos— e desbanca a imagem daquele animal duro “que dá o maior trabalho para abrir e roubar umas lasquinhas de carne”.“Henrique Fogaça [apresentador do MasterChef e chef do restaurante Sal] é outro dos nossos clientes mais antigos”, diz Theiss, que afirma que a Cerrado, voltada ao mercado de carnes exóticas, é a única empresa com certificado do serviço de inspeção federal do Ministério da Agricultura, Pecuária e Abastecimento para comercializar o siri mole no Brasil e atende apenas cerca de cem restaurantes no país.No Nordeste, em Mangue Seco, última praia no norte do litoral baiano, é tradição retirar crustáceos do manguezal na maré vazante. Em uma pequena vila de pescadores no município de Jandaíra, sustenta-se um antigo ritual.Mulheres entoam um canto para atrair os aratus, caranguejos de carapaça avermelhada pescados com uma vara de bambu, que carrega em sua extremidade pedaços de peixe como isca. São animais reconhecidos pela Arca do Gosto, catálogo do Slow Food, como um animal ameaçado de extinção, mas que ainda sustentam famílias locais.Na Baía de Todos-os-Santos, no mesmo estado, siris avermelhados são coletados com o jereré, semelhante a uma rede em formato de coador, com um cabo.É com esses animais que Fabrício Lemos, chef em ascensão em Salvador, faz um refogado que enriquece um refogado de siri com vinho branco, creme de leite fresco e raspa de limão sobre o qual acomoda arroz com pesto de rúcula, agrião e manjericão e feijão-verde, por cima.Exibe em seu restaurante Origem, assim, um preparo que explora a carne com criatividade mostrando sua capacidade versátil na cozinha.ONDE COMER NO BRASILAizomê O quê: Siri mole frito ao molho ponzu; tempurá de siri mole (R$ 45, cada porção) Onde: al. Fernão Cardim, 39, Jardim Paulista, São Paulo; tel. (11) 2222-1176 Akuaba O quê: moqueca de siri pescado na água doce da lagoa Manguaba, em Maceió, com leite de coco e azeite de dendê, servido com farofa de dendê e arroz branco (R$ 70, para dois) Onde: r. Ferroviário Manoel Gonçalves Filho, 6, Jatiúca, Maceió, Alagoas; tel. (82) 3325-6199 Arimbá O quê: Saberes e Comeres de uma Capixaba, jantar e bate-papo sobre siri catado e siri mole, com reserva antecipada, R$ 150 Onde: r. Ministro Ferreira Alves, 464, Perdizes, São Paulo; tel. (11) 3477-7063 Caieiras O quê: casquinha de siri azul, pescado no mar, com urucum e coentro, farofa e vinagrete (R$ 20) Onde: r. Felicidade Correia dos Santos, 968, Ilha das Caieiras, Vitória, Espírito Santo; tel. (27) 3322-0634 Origem O quê: Miniarroz de siri com feijão-verde (somente no menu-degustação) Onde: al. das Algarobas, 74, Pituba, Salvador, Bahia; tel. (71) 99202-4587 Papaguth O quê: frigideira de siri (refogado com azeite, tomate, cebola, alho, coentro, urucum levado quente à mesa, na panela de barro )R$ 50, para quatro) Onde: av. Nossa Sra. dos Navegantes, 700 - Enseada do Suá, Vitória, Espírito Santo, tel. (27) 3225-5773 Pouso das Garças O quê: A mesma base do catado de aratu (R$ 20, para dois), que parte da carne refogada com cebola, tomate, pimentão e coentro, pode receber companhia de torradas, rechear pastéis, cobrir pizzas e transformar-se em moqueca ou suflê Onde: r. Praia da Costa, 5, Vila de Mangue Seco, Jandaíra, Bahia; tel. (79) 99937-8213 | comida |
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] | O restaurante parisiense Oka, do chef brasileiro Raphael Rego, recebeu nesta segunda (21) sua primeira estrela Michelin.A casa do carioca de 34 anos, que mora na capital francesa há mais de dez e que, antes, morou na Austrália, propõe uma culinária de inspiração francesa e brasileira, usando ingredientes amazônicos. A cozinha usa cerca de 80 ingredientes importados do Brasil.Rego abriu em 2014 um restaurante de mesmo nome, Oka, fechado tempos depois. Ali ele recebeu a classificação Bib Gourmand, a categoria do Guia Michelin para restaurantes com preços acessíveis. Em março de 2018, ele voltou à proposta da alta cozinha num novo empreendimento, que renomeou Oka.Nesta segunda, 68 restaurantes da França receberam sua primeira estrela Michelin. Estima-se que ganhar uma estrela do prestigioso guia aumente em 30% os ganhos de um restaurante.Segundo o guia, uma estrela indica uma cozinha muito bem executada, que vale conhecer; duas, uma cozinha excepcional, que vale o desvio no caminho; e três, uma cozinha única, que vale a viagem.A edição francesa do guia estará à venda a partir de sexta (25).Após esta premiação, os restaurantes estrelados chegam a 3.000 no mundo todo.Em maio de 2018, o restaurante paulistano Tuju, do chef Ivan Ralston, e o carioca Oro, do chef Felipe Bronze, receberam duas —das três estrelas possíveis— do “Guia Michelin Rio de Janeiro & São Paulo”.Até 2017, apenas o paulistano D.O.M, de Alex Atala, possuía duas estrelas —classificação que se manteve neste ano. Nenhum brasileiro possui três estrelas. | comida |
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] | A torta de frango com requeijão da chef Renata Cruz, que lançou marca própria de seus produtos, a Rê Cruz To Go, é o item mais cobiçado de seu portfólio, "mais que a coxinha [risos]".Com anos de experiência em cozinha —teve restaurante e bufê para grandes celebrações—, ela abriu recentemente uma rotisserie em Pinheiros, na qual oferece produtos artesanais, também à venda no site.Buscou inspiração em sua infância para desenvolver a receita da torta, cujo recheio traz peito de frango desfiado, molho de tomate caseiro e requeijão, embalados por uma massa dourada. "Não era um prato que a gente comia tradicionalmente, e nem é uma receita da minha avó ou da minha mãe, mas tentei reproduzir como eu acho gostoso. Pra mim, torta de frango tem de ter muito recheio, e tem que ser cremoso."Rê Cruz To Go, r. Dr. Virgílio de Carvalho Pinto, 297, Pinheiros | comida |
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] | O restaurante Maido, de Mitsuharu “Micha” Tsumura, em Lima, no Peru, foi eleito, pela segunda vez consecutiva, o primeiro da lista dos 50 melhores da América Latina, o “50 Best”.A cerimônia aconteceu na noite desta terça-feira (30), em Bogotá, na Colômbia, país que recebeu o evento pela segunda vez. Formam o top 5, na sequência: Central (2º), no Peru; Pujol (3º), no México; Boragó (4º), em Santiago, no Chile; e o brasileiro D.O.M. (5º), em São Paulo —que desceu duas posições do ano passado para cá. O Brasil teve duas estreias: o Oteque (33º), de Alberto Landgraf, e Oro (49º), de Felipe Bronze, ambos no Rio de Janeiro. Instalada no centro de São Paulo, A Casa do Porco foi o único brasileiro a subir de posto, de 8º para 7º —os demais restaurantes desceram. “Não importa em qual a posição a gente fique, o importante é representar a gastronomia brasileira da melhor forma possível. Este é um palco para levar a nossa cultura, os nossos ingredientes e a nossa alegria. Fico feliz com este reconhecimento do meu trabalho”, disse seu chef, Jefferson Rueda. Para Rodrigo Oliveira, do Mocotó, se o país quiser ganhar proeminência no ranking, é preciso se articular mais. “A gente sempre vem com a expectativa de manter a posição ou subir. Já estivemos em diversas posições e sabemos que isso é volátil. Mas o Brasil é uma ilha no meio dessa latinidade hispânica. Se acharmos por bem nos posicionarmos melhor, temos que estar mais próximos, falar essa língua”, afirmou o chef do restaurante na zona Norte de São Paulo, que caiu de 27º para 45º lugar. Além das 50 casas presentes na lista, a cerimônia revelou destaques individuais. São eles: melhor confeiteiro (Jesús Escalera, da La Postrería, de Guadalajara); a escolha do chef, votado por cozinheiros (Carlos García); a arte da hospitalidade (Don Julio, em Buenos Aires, Argentina); o restaurante que mais subiu posições (Mishiguene, em Buenos Aires, saltando 32 postos); o prêmio dedicado à sustentabilidade (Boragó, de Santiago).Outros prêmios divulgados anteriormente foram entregues durante a noite, entre eles o de melhor chef mulher (elit® Vodka Latin America’s Best Female Chef), dado à Pía León, do Central e do Kjolle, em Lima. Já a brasileira Manu Buffara, do Manu, em Curitiba, levou a categoria revelação (One To Watch), que reconhece potencial para integrar a lista nos próximos anos. A celebração, em seu sexto ano, é a versão latino-americana do 50 Best Restaurants global, publicado atualmente pela William Reed Business Media e lançado em 2002. A lista de vencedores é formulada a partir de votos de um júri composto por mais de 250 jornalistas, foodies, chefs e restaurateurs da América Latina. O crítico da Folha, Josimar Melo, é presidente do júri do Brasil do prêmio.Cada jurado deve votar em dez diferentes casas, visitadas ao menos uma vez nos últimos 18 meses, sendo quatro delas em países que não são o seu de origem.A William Reed Business Media é organizadora, responsável pela coleta de votos e pela produção da lista.Em 2017, os brasileiros que estiveram na lista foram: D. O.M. (3º), A Casa do Porco (8º), Maní (9º), Lasai (16°), Olympe (23º), Mocotó (27º), o extinto Esquina Mocotó (41°) e o Tuju (45º).1. Maido, em Lima, Peru 2. Central, em Lima, Peru 3. Pujol, na Cidade do México, México 4. Boragó, em Santiago, Chile 5. D.O.M., em São Paulo, Brasil 6. Don Julio, em Buenos Aires, Argentina 7. A Casa do Porco, em São Paulo, Brasil 8. Astrid y Gastón, em Lima, Perú 9. Quintonil, na Cidade do México, México 10. Leo, em Bogotá, Colômbia 11. Tegui, em Buenos Aires, Argentina 12. Maní, em São Paulo, Brasil 13. Isolina, em Lima, Peru 14. Sud 777, na Cidade do México, México 15. Villanos em Bermudas, em Bogotá, Colômbia 16. Rafael, em Lima, no Peru 17. La Mar, em Lima, Peru 18. Mishiguene, em Buenos Aires, Argentina 19. Chila, em Buenos Aires, Argentina 20. Máximo Bistrot, na Cidade do México, México 21. El Chato, Bogotá, Colômbia (novidade) 22. Parador La Huella, em Jose Ignacio, no Uruguai 23. Harry Sasson, em Bogotá, na Colômbia 24. Ambrosia, em Santiago, Chile 25. Osso, em Lima, Peru 26. Lasai, no Rio de Janeiro, Brasil 27. Olympe, no Rio de Janeiro, Brasil 28. 99, em Santiago, no Chile 29. Maito, na Cidade do Panamá, Panamá 30. Pangea, em Monterrey, no México 31. Alcalde, em Guadalajara, no México 32. Elena, em Buenos Aires, na Argentina 33. Oteque, no Rio de Janeiro, Brasil (novidade) 34. Le Chique, em Cancun, México (novidade) 35. Corazón de Tierra, Valle de Guadalupe, México 36. El Baqueano, em Buenos Aires, Argentina 37. Nicos, na Cidade do México, México 38. Gran Dabbang, em Buenos Aires, Argentina (novidade) 39. Malabar, em Lima, Peru 40. La Docena, em Guadalajara, México 41. Rosetta, na Cidade do México, México 42. Aramburu, em Buenos Aires, Argentina 43. Restaurante 040, em Santiago, no Chile 44. Proper, em Buenos Aires, Argentina 45. Mocotó, em São Paulo, Brasil 46. Narda Comedor, em Buenos Aires, Argentina (novidade) 47. Osaka, em Santiago, Chile (novidade) 48. Amaz, em Lima, Peru 49. Oro, Rio de Janeiro, Brasil (novidade) 50. Tuju, em São Paulo, Brasil | comida |
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] | Fosse nos dias de hoje, o presidente americano Thomas Jefferson (1743-1826) poderia ser chamado de gourmet —ou seja, aquele que conhece e aprecia a boa mesa. O principal autor da Declaração da Independência dos Estados Unidos tinha sua estimada receita de sorvete, feita com gema, creme de leite fresco, açúcar e fava de baunilha.Além de apreciar o hábito francês, Jefferson também trouxe da Itália uma máquina de fazer massas. Sua filha, Martha Jefferson Randolph, anfitriã da casa na época, é creditada por difundir uma das primeiras versões de “mac and cheese”. Essa receita do clássico macarrão com queijo aparece ilustrada em um pôster colorido, meio hipster, nas páginas do livro “Food & Drinks Infographics”, que também exibe as instruções manuscritas do sorvete de Jefferson. Esse convívio entre imagens modernas e antigas percorre todo o livro, que acaba de chegar ao Brasil em edição trilíngue (inglês, espanhol e italiano), sem previsão para versão em português. Com pesquisa, organização e textos da carioca Simone Klabin, 52, a obra é uma coleção de infográficos que abraça uma quantidade surpreendente de temas dentro gastronomia. Simone prefere evitar o termo enciclopédia, de “tom muito científico” para descrever o volume de 464 páginas que “tem humor e leveza de forma natural, com coisas que nunca paramos para pensar, como a história do chiclete”, diz. O projeto nasceu dentro do departamento de design gráfico da Taschen, a editora especializada em arte, referência mundial no assunto. O lançamento é, aliás, o quarto de uma série dedicada a explicar temas com a linguagem da infografia. Ela inclui, também, uma edição que condensa trabalhos dos arquivos de 128 anos da National Geographic. Na versão dedicada à comida, foram usados recursos gráficos que incluem ilustrações, desenhos, fotografias, linha do tempo e gravuras antigas. Um dos exemplos mais audaciosos é a representação que explora as conexões entre pessoas, lugares e marcos da cultura gastronômica em formato de mapa de metrô. Nele, personalidades como a ex-primeira dama americana Michelle Obama e o chef inglês Jamie Oliver dão nome a estações, distribuídas em linhas que simbolizam temas como educação, sustentabilidade, mídia.Esse e outros infográficos foram garimpados por Simone em fontes diversas, como a biblioteca da universidade americana de Cornell e pequenos acervos, como o do casal de livreiros da Books & Bygones, que mantém peças raras no interior da Inglaterra. Advogada especializada em propriedade intelectual, Simone apurou o olhar em um mestrado de cinema e estudos culturais na New York University, na mesma cidade onde vive há cerca de 20 anos. Mas, ao longo do processo, também recebeu comentários do próprio Benedikt Taschen, fundador da editora, que dá palpite e acompanha de perto as edições ainda hoje.Foi o publisher que pediu a inclusão de mais referências históricas, como gravuras ou reproduções. “‘Eu gosto de vintage’, ele me disse. E realmente faz diferença ao dar uma perspectiva da cultura humana em torno da comida”, afirma Simone.A linguagem visual permitiu à obra englobar assuntos tão diversos como o funcionamento de um micro-ondas, a melhor forma de organizar uma festa e a tabela que mostra a disponibilidade de peixes nos oceanos. Os clássicos brasileiros arroz e feijão e brigadeiro também estão lá.No prefácio, o jornalista americano Michael Ruhlman defende que imagem é uma fonte poderosa de informação, apresentando imediatamente o contexto a quem a vê. E o livro funda-se nisso para simplificar assuntos complexos, dominados por especialistas, como a harmonização de vinhos.Ainda assim, ao saber do projeto, algumas pessoas perguntam a Simone se a publicação é voltada a receitas. Não, ela responde, mesmo que muitos preparos estejam contemplados ali —um deles, a saber, é um musse de chocolate feito há anos pela própria autora. “Meus filhos não aguentam mais. Mas sempre dá certo”, diz. | comida |
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] | A capital paulista será a sede do mais novo restaurante Nobu, o primeiro na América do Sul do famoso chef japonês Nobu Matsuhisa, radicado nos Estados Unidos. Sua carreira explodiu quando, em 1993, abriu seu endereço em Nova York com o sócio e ator Robert De Niro, o restaurateur Drew Nieporent e o produtor de cinema Meir Teper. Virou um sucesso instantâneo, na esteira do prestígio que o chef já vinha angariando em Los Angeles. Situado nos Jardins, na rua Haddock Lobo, 1.573 (esquina com a rua Oscar Freire), o novo ponto —cuja inauguração vem sendo mantida com extrema discrição— abrirá em meados de novembro. Ele tem como sócios locais um grupo de investidores liderados pela empresária do setor imobiliário Ester Endo, envolvida também na construção do futuro hotel Nobu de São Paulo, que ainda demora alguns anos para ficar pronto (e terá outro restaurante do chef). Num prédio sóbrio e elegante, o Nobu dos Jardins terá um lounge e um bar no térreo e, no andar superior, um sushibar com longo balcão, além do salão principal. Com a inauguração em São Paulo, subirá para 40 o número de cozinhas com a assinatura de Nobu Matsuhisa, 69, espalhados pelos cinco continentes. A carreira do sushiman começou em Tóquio, onde trabalhou por sete anos num restaurante até ser convidado a abrir um endereço em Lima, no Peru, quando tinha 24 anos. Ali começou a adaptar sua cozinha japonesa improvisada com ingredientes locais. Mudou-se para os Estados Unidos em 1977, trabalhando em restaurantes de Los Angeles até abrir na cidade sua própria casa, Nobu Matsuhisa, dez anos depois. Ali se tornou um sucesso entre artistas, e foi apresentado a Robert De Niro, que o convidou a abrir, em sociedade, um restaurante em Nova York. Assim nasceu o Nobu, num edifício histórico no bairro de Tribeca, de onde a nova marca se espalhou pelo mundo. Sempre com sushis e sashimis impregnados por ingredientes peruanos —e, cada vez mais, de outros lugares do mundo também. Num encontro nos Estados Unidos, no último mês de maio, no hotel Caesars Palace de Las Vegas (onde o chef tem um hotel boutique, além de um restaurante), Nobu falou com este repórter sobre sua cozinha e seu empreendimento brasileiro. “Comecei fazendo culinária japonesa, especialmente sushis”, diz, num inglês até hoje claudicante. “Quando fui para o Peru, ainda jovem, conheci outros tipos de comida, uma cultura gastronômica diferente —picante, com ingredientes como alho, azeite, coentros, pimentas, coisas que a cozinha japonesa não usava. Eu aprendi com eles. Agora tenho restaurantes nos cinco continentes, fico viajando e continuo sempre aprendendo com as diferentes culturas.” Tímido e sorridente, Nobu fala pausadamente enquanto explica sua cozinha: “a base é ainda japonesa, as técnicas, a apresentação. Mas combino ingredientes de diferentes países, de uma forma que eu chamo de ‘estilo Nobu’”, acrescenta, agora sem modéstia. Sobre sua chegada aos Estados Unidos, ele diz que causou estranheza quando inaugurou seu restaurante em Los Angeles. “Era japonês, mas a comunidade japonesa dizia: ‘não, isso não é comida japonesa’”, relembra. Depois, no de Nova York, chefs japoneses viam com desconfiança seus pratos diferentes. “Eles diziam: ‘veremos se dura seis meses’. Durou, e hoje o estilo Nobu está em todo o mundo —sushis com pimenta jalapeño, ceviches... Não digo que me copiem, mas eles gostam.” No Brasil, o novo Nobu terá as mesmas receitas servidas nas outras casas. “Mas isso sempre depende de ingredientes locais e talvez do uso de algum tempero ou sabor local”, diz Matsuhisa. Já os chefs e sushimen serão daqui mesmo. Segundo Nobu, o procedimento, como sempre, é enviar um chef corporativo da marca para treinar a equipe local. “Mas a ideia é criar uma equipe brasileira —chefs, pessoal de salão, gerentes. Temos que apoiar as pessoas do lugar, e não mandar gente daqui para ocupar os postos que deveriam ser de profissionais brasileiros.” | comida |
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] | Comemorado no dia 13 de setembro, o Dia da Cachaça vem ganhando expressão ao celebrar um produto nacional que nasceu há mais de 500 anos. Ao longo do tempo, a bebida acumulou cerca de 3.000 apelidos —como branquinha, água que passarinho não bebe e ximbira.Também ganhou possibilidades pelo país, que variam conforme tipo de cana, processo de produção, armazenamento e teor alcoólico. “Os aromas criados na fermentação aparecem na cachaça branca. Já a que passa por madeira ganha cor e aromas em muitas quantidades possíveis”, diz o especialista Felipe Januzzi, idealizador do Mapa da Cachaça e produtor do gim Virga, que leva o ingrediente. Ele explica que a madeira pode representar até 80% do perfil sensorial da bebida e que não só o tipo utilizado, mas a forma de trabalhá-la se traduz em uma expressão da cultura local. Nesse processo, também contam fatores como o tamanho do barril, o teor alcoólico da cachaça e o tempo de descanso. | comida |
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] | “O que difere os homens dos outros seres vivos?”, provocou-me o historiador Ricardo Maranhão, morto nesta sexta-feira (7), aos 72 anos, em decorrência de um câncer. “Ele nunca está satisfeito, sempre cria novas necessidades. Essa é a característica que o diferencia”, o próprio respondeu. “O homem tem o hábito de elaborar formas de alimentos cada vez mais variadas.”Ainda que Ricardo Maranhão tenha sido um estudioso da história da luta sindical e da energia elétrica no país, a alimentação foi o que o conquistou mais tardia e profundamente. “Um historiador de bom apetite pela boa mesa (aristocrática ou plebeia)”, escreveu o crítico Josimar Melo, com quem dividiu cursos de gastronomia.Doutor em história pela USP e em sociologia pela Unicamp, foi um dos intelectuais que mais contribuiu para o entendimento da cozinha brasileira, ao lado de célebres como Gilberto Freyre e Luís da Câmara Cascudo.Fundador do Centro de Pesquisas em Gastronomia Brasileira na Universidade Anhembi Morumbi, tratou a área academicamente, com cientificismo, e deixa um legado de mais de 20 obras publicadas.“Gente do Mar” (ed. Terceiro Nome) lhe rendeu o prêmio Jabuti em 2015. Na publicação, o historiador registra a pesquisa que o consumiu por mais de um ano, em viagens pelo litoral do Brasil, a observar os modos de vida preservados nas comunidades mais isoladas.“É capaz que a pesca artesanal desapareça”, dizia ele, diante do massacre da indústria e do turismo predatório.Sentia urgência, pois, em retratar o cotidiano desses povos, desprovidos de uma classe média intelectualizada preocupada em identificar e conservar tradições.Maranhão inquietava-se em observar e registrar o trivial. Para ele, a gastronomia não era “alta”. O que valorizava era o ato de comer e seus rituais.Tinha a habilidade de transitar da antiguidade clássica greco-romana à cozinha espanhola ultramoderna —sempre amparado na história, na observação e análise das relações culturais. Dedicava tempo para discorrer sobre como a alimentação interferiu na consolidação da cidadania.Era um prazer ouvir Maranhão. Por horas. Com leveza e encantamento, ele era capaz de dividir seu conhecimento erudito com simplicidade, ao longo de 50 anos em sala de aula. Atualmente, ensinava a disciplina de história da gastronomia na FAM (Faculdade das Américas) e em cursos na Casa do Saber, em São Paulo.O professor influenciou nomes fortes da nova geração de chefs e estudiosos da cozinha brasileira, como Rodrigo Oliveira, do Mocotó, e Paulo Machado, do instituto de pesquisas que leva o seu nome, concentrado sobretudo na pesquisa da cozinha pantaneira.Fixava-se com particular profundidade, aliás, nos temas referentes à nossa cozinha. Conduziu em 2009 um levantamento inédito sobre as tradições do Pantanal; investigou como o “delicado franguinho” foi da África ao Brasil, em “O Frango - História e Gastronomia” (ed. Usina da Edição); buscou responder por que a presença do Oriente Médio no país é tão decisiva e como ela se reflete na culinária. Em “Árabes no Brasil - História e Sabor” (ed. Boccato), por exemplo, destaca a naturalidade com a qual brasileiros consomem quibes e esfirras, como se fosse um hábito tradicional nosso.Há pouco, estava envolvido em estudos para sustentar a tese de que a cozinha paraense é a mais antiga do Brasil. Amparava-se em evidências arqueológicas, em registros de que “os pratos de mandioca com peixe, fundamentais na sustância das civilizações pré-colombianas na Amazônia, existiam há 6.000 anos”, como disse à Folha. Sempre atento aos detalhes e ao contexto histórico, produziu e compartilhou de maneira muito generosa um conhecimento referencial na gastronomia brasileira.Maranhão, que deixa dois filhos, será velado neste sábado (8), no Cemitério do Araçá, das 8h às 12h. A cerimônia de cremação será às 14h, no Crematório da Vila Alpina. | comida |
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] | O chef José Hugo Celidônio, que ajudou a disseminar ingredientes brasileiros na culinária, morreu neste domingo (2). Ele tinha 86 anos e sofreu um mal-estar numa pizzaria no Jardim Botânico, no Rio.Paulista radicado no Rio, Celidônio fez ponte para muitos nomes da culinária francesa no Brasil. Recebia aqui chefs como Alain Chapel e Pierre Troisgros (pai de Claude Troisgros). Também foi um dos primeiros a pesquisar ingredientes brasileiros e introduzi-los na alta gastronomia —muitas vezes casando-os a receitas francesas.Celidônio foi responsável por casas como Sol e Mar e Flag, que no fim dos anos 1960 recebia em seu piano-bar shows de Tom Jobim, Vinicius de Moraes e Nara Leão.Em 1980, abriu no Rio o Club Gourmet, que funcionou por duas décadas e era referência da culinária autoral. Ele reativou o nome da casa no fim do ano passado, no complexo Lagoon, no Rio, com serviços de bufê e à la carte.Entre suas publicações está "Histórias e Receitas de José Hugo Celidônio" (Ediouro, 1998). | comida |
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] | de Flor Gil Demasi, filha da apresentadora Bela GilIngredientes: 1/3 xícara (chá) de óleo de coco 2/3 xícara (chá) de açúcar mascavo ou de coco 1/4 xícara (chá) de qualquer leite vegetal 1/4 xícara (chá) de farinha de aveia3/4 xícara (chá) de chocolate vegano picado ou em gotinhas Preparo Em uma tigela, misture óleo de coco, açúcar mascavo e farinha de aveia (para obter a farinha, basta bater a aveia em flocos no liquidificador até ficar bem fina)Acrescente o leite vegetal e mexa bem. Adicione o chocolate vegano e misture mais uma vezColoque os cookies em uma fôrma com a ajuda de uma colherLeve ao forno já pré-aquecido em 180ºC por dez minutos. O cookie vai derreter e ficar no formato perfeitoRetire-os com o auxílio de uma espátulaVITRINE NA MINHA COZINHA SEMPRE TEMLorenzo Ravioli, vencedor do MasterChef Júnior1. Cebola Quando crua, é picante e crocante. Quando frita, é doce e crocante. Quando dourada, é doce e macia 2. Alho Extremamente versátil para temperar carnes, aves e frutos do mar3. Azeite Ótimo para dar liga, fritar, emulsionar, dourar e dar sabor aos ingredientes 4. Alecrim Meu preferido para temperar as proteínas. Gosto também de usar para temperar os molhos, assados e bases | comida |
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] | Ingredientes exclusivos, pratos criativos, cozinheiros premiados, atendimento especial, louças feitas sob medida para cada receita, enxoval alvo e requintado.Tudo isso faz parte da experiência de comer em um restaurante da chamada alta gastronomia em São Paulo. Onde R$ 64 é preço de sobremesa, não de prato principal —caso do tiramisù do Fasano.Mas como um doce, uma entrada ou um sushi podem custar tão caro?"Não tem muito segredo, é matemática", diz o chef Jun Sakamoto. Ele explica que o custo variável dos ingredientes costuma representar em torno de 35% do valor final do prato. A folha de pagamento equivale a até 30%.Depois, entram todos os outros custos. Segundo ele, uma conta que faz com que a margem de lucro das casas seja de, em média, 15%."A partir desse cálculo você precifica, sempre considerando os valores de mercado, vendo quantas pessoas pode atender no seu espaço, se o restaurante abre só no almoço ou também no jantar", explica Sakamoto.No restaurante que leva seu nome, em Pinheiros, o menu-degustação servido no balcão, de onde é possível ver o chef preparar os sushis, custa R$ 365 por pessoa.Para Mayra Chinellato, diretora de Operações de Alimentos e Bebidas do Fasano, a primeira coisa que deve ser considerada é mesmo a matéria-prima."De onde o ingrediente vem, quão pequeno é esse fornecedor, quais são as nossas condições de compra. Também temos a importação de produtos italianos, que é algo bastante caro", explica.Para ter uma ideia de quão especiais podem ser os insumos, o caviar italiano do tipo Ossetra, servido no Fasano, sai por R$ 1.410. É acompanhado de blinis, alcaparras, gema e clara de ovo, sour cream, cebola e cebolinha.Mas o valor da iguaria é exceção até no cardápio do Fasano, onde os pratos principais custam de R$ 136 a R$ 239.Sakamoto também trabalha com importação, o que causa flutuação nos preços. "O salmão [que ele traz do Chile] subiu 35% do ano passado para cá, e isso reflete no preço do prato do cliente", diz.Para compensar altas como essa, ele diz que trabalha para otimizar o uso das mercadorias e desenvolve ideias de como desperdiçar menos."Quem está saindo de faculdades de gastronomia e quer ter um restaurante tinha de cursar administração", diz ele.Normalmente, os restaurantes que trabalham com menu-degustação não calculam o valor dos pratos da mesma forma que os estabelecimentos que servem à la carte.Nesse tipo de menu, um preço médio é estabelecido previamente. E o chef procura fazer um equilíbrio entre ingredientes caros —e outros nem tanto— para chegar a esse valor.Nos restaurantes à la carte, há uma variação na margem de lucro. Um frango, que costuma ser barato, pode render até quatro vezes o seu valor de custo. Já no caso de um produto caro, essa margem cai. O mesmo acontece com vinhos.O atendimento especializado oferecido aos clientes das casas de alta gastronomia também acaba por refletir no preço final dos pratos.Entram nessa conta, por exemplo, a maior quantidade de garçons por mesa e a oportunidade de ter um sommelier sempre à disposição."Quanto custa ser bem servido, ter uma noite especial e experimentar uma comida de qualidade? Tenho certeza de que não vendemos apenas o prato, vendemos um todo", diz Chinellato.Aluguel, luz, gás e lavanderia também pesam. "Disponibilizamos três guardanapos por cliente, no mínimo", diz Chinellato. Sem falar dos itens que quebram --e também entram na conta. Uma taça usada no Fasano custa entre R$ 70 e R$ 120.Sakamoto lembra que os altos impostos cobrados no país têm grande peso no valor final cobrado pelos restaurantes."O governo é sócio de todo o mundo, e é o único sócio que ganha sempre. Quando você abre seu negócio e quando você fecha", diz.Para os clientes, que ganharão uma experiência gastronômica, mas sairão com o bolso mais vazio, há algumas dicas simples para não tomar um baita susto na hora de receber a conta.Quando pedir água, por exemplo, fique atento. Há marcas caras, que fazem com que o preço da sua refeição aumente consideravelmente.Se o garçom oferecer uma taça de champanhe para abrir a refeição ou um prato que não estava previsto no menu, não tenha vergonha de perguntar quanto custa aquele extra. Pode não se tratar de uma cortesia.Na hora de escolher a bebida, pedir vinho em taça não necessariamente deixará a conta mais barata.Elas podem acabar se multiplicando ao longo da refeição —assim como o valor que o cliente vai pagar. Por vezes, ir direto na garrafa é mais vantajoso. | comida |
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] | O Netflix, serviço de streaming, estreia neste ano, ainda sem data definida, a série de competição gastronômica "The Final Table - Que Vença o Melhor".A chef brasileira Helena Rizzo, do Maní, é uma entre nove grandes nomes da gastronomia mundial que participam do programa.Além dela, foram recrutados chefs como Enrique Olvera, do Pujol, no México; Andoni Aduriz, do Mugaritz, na Espanha; Grant Achatz, do Alinea, nos Estados Unidos e Yoshihiro Narisawa, do Narisawa, no Japão.Cada episódio retrata a culinária do país de um desses chefs com a participação de personalidades e críticos gastronômicos.Na competição, 12 duplas de cozinheiros vão preparar pratos tradicionais de diferentes países. Ao final das provas, dois participantes disputam uma vaga na Mesa Final, o time composto pelos nove chefs internacionais.A série terá a apresentação do americano Andrew Knowlton, escritor e editor da revista Bon Appétit. | comida |
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] | Para criar um sanduíche especial para o Izakaya Taka Daru, o chef Uilian Goya, resolveu desenvolver um pão exclusivo. Para isso, fez uma parceria com a padeira Virgínia Oda que resultou em um sabor que lembra o pão de miga, mas é mais docinho e consistente, para segurar a gordura da carne.A carne, no caso, é uma barriga de porco crocante entremeada com queijo artesanal. Para acompanhar, leva maionese de missô, molho tonkatsu (feito com shoyu e mostarda, ele costuma ser usado com carne de porco frita) e uma folhinha de alga nori.A receita é apenas uma das que mostram que, hoje, restaurante que se preze tem, pelo menos, um sanduíche de receita própria no cardápio. Jefferson Rueda, da Casa do Porco, serve o siri-bacon (pão de batata com siri mole, bacon, salada e maionese). Oscar Bosch, do Tanit, acaba de criar o bocadillo de calamares (um pão de tinta de lula frito e recheado com o mesmo molusco, empanado)."Quem não sabe fazer um bom sanduíche não sabe viver. Apesar de trabalhar com lagostas, vieiras e foie gras no restaurante Tonton, quando eu chegava em casa comia um sanduíche. Foi o motivo para abrir o Sandoui", conta Gustavo Rozzino, do restaurante especializado na iguaria.Antes restrito à sua casa mais nova, agora o sanduba Duck Tales está no cardápio de seus dois endereços. A receita reúne coxa de pato confitada, compota de cebola-roxa e brioche tostadinho.O chef Renato Carioni acaba de entrar para o time. Ele anunciou que, a partir de 21 de setembro, também servirá sanduíches no Così.Um deles será o lobster roll (cauda de lagosta cozida, maionese, salsão, cebola-roxa e um pouquinho de pimenta em pão de mandioquinha selado com manteiga de alho).Também vai servir o vitello tonnato (uma focaccia com rosbife de vitela, maionese de atum e picles de cebola roxa).Em sua cozinha no Tan Tan Noodle Bar, o chef Thiago Bañares também aposta nos sanduíches. Eles vão de amanteigados briochinhos, recheados com camarões suculentos, à uma releitura do McFish.Sem contar os pães de miga preenchidos com ostra, vegetais e até coração de galinha.Temporariamente fechado, o restaurante reabrirá com novidades em outubro.A Casa do Porco - r. Araújo, 124, RepúblicaCosì - r. Barão de Tatuí, 302, Santa CecíliaIzakaya Taka Daru - r. Costa Carvalho, 234, Baixo PinheirosSandoui - al. Joaquim Eugênio de Lima, 1.537, JardinsTanit - r. Oscar Freire, 145, JardinsTan Tan Noodle Bar - r. Fradique Coutinho, 153, Pinheiros | comida |
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] | Comprar carne é coisa séria para os amantes de um bom churrasco. Para atender a essa demanda, as casas de carne premium —chamadas de boutiques— oferecem um serviço diferente dos açougues tradicionais."Quem vem aqui normalmente procura carne para churrasco mesmo. Tem gente que gasta R$ 7.000 na loja e tem gente que compra um único steak, gasta R$ 30, e põe uma velinha em cima para comemorar o aniversário", conta Pedro Rossi Corrêa Ricci, 23, gerente da DeBetti.Andréa Alcântara, 37, gerente do Varanda Gourmet, diz que a maioria dos clientes da casa quer fazer um churrasco especial e, ali, sabe que vai encontrar o melhor produto.Para garantir que a carne tenha qualidade, essas lojas acompanham os bois desde que ainda estão no pasto, antes do abate.Checam a alimentação do animal, o tempo de confinamento, o manejo, a raça, a idade em que ele é abatido, o peso e tudo mais que possa influenciar na qualidade, no sabor a na maciez da carne.Os custos são altos e, claro, repassados ao consumidor. "Os clientes investem para ter uma carne premium", afirma Márcio Valenti, 37, diretor-executivo da Feed.Os preços da picanha em um açougue de luxo podem variar de R$ 87 a R$ 150 o quilo. E há carnes bem mais caras. A do boi da raça wagyu, original do Japão, mas que já é criado por aqui, pode chegar a R$ 400 o quilo.Algumas lojas oferecem também a carne que passa por um processo de maturação a seco conhecido como dry-aged. Mais Trata-se de uma técnica de conservação bem diferente, por exemplo, da que dá origem à carne-seca, que é salgada e depois mantida ao sol.As dry-aged descansam numa câmara fria com umidade reduzida e, com o tempo, perdem água e ganham uma casca escura.Trintas dias depois, ficam quase 30% menores. Já as peças de 120 dias chegam a perder mais de dois terços do tamanho original. Sem falar naquela casca, que precisa ser descartada.Está aí a explicação para os preços altos. Na DeBetti, o quilo do dry-aged com 30 dias custa R$ 139, e o de 120 sai a R$ 199.Boa parte do sucesso do restaurante Cór, no Alto de Pinheiros, se deve às peças de longa maturação. Idealizado por Renzo Garibaldi, o cardápio lista pedidas como o prime rib com 45 dias (R$ 300 o quilo).O responsável pela cozinha é o chef Jeovane Godoy, também à frente do recém-aberto Anima Mea, no Itaim. "Por não terem água, essas carnes devem ser só seladas na frigideira, ou viram tijolos", avisa.Os cortes mais vendidos são os tradicionais, mas esses estabelecimentos também trabalham com as peças que não são consideradas nobres. "Não existe carne de segunda, existe boi de segunda", afirma Valenti.Uma das características mais procuradas pelos clientes ultimamente é o marmoreio, a gordura interna da carne, que tem esse nome porque a faz parecer um mármore."A carne mais marmorizada derrete na grelha e tem um sabor amanteigado", explica Alcântara."Os clientes já sabem que carne não é tudo igual e procuram qualidade."A manipulação do produto também é importante para manter sua qualidade. Por isso, parte das lojas vende as peças já cortadas em porções e embaladas a vácuo.Uma dica: se o pacote tiver muito sangue, não é um bom sinal. "Isso mostra que a carne não foi transportada de forma apropriada", diz Valenti.O ideal é que a carne esteja fresca, nunca congelada. "Se precisar, congele por, no máximo, um mês. Depois disso perde muita qualidade", afirma Ricci.Na hora de descongelar, ainda segundo os especialistas, não coloque no micro-ondas, na água ou no sol. Retire do freezer 24 horas antes de usar e deixe na geladeira para descongelar naturalmente.Hambúrgueres também são muito procurados nesses locais, especialmente por quem gosta de prepará-los na grelha.De olho nos churrasqueiros mais exigentes, as lojas têm investido ainda em molhos, acompanhamentos e ingredientes para incrementar o preparo da carne.A maior parte das boutiques tem espaços em que é possível experimentar as carnes sofisticadas que vendem, preparadas no capricho. É comer e sair feliz da vida.DeBetti r. Curumins, 11, tel. (11) 3032-8875 ter. a sex., de 9h a 20h; sáb., de 9h a 18h; e dom., de 9h a 19hQuintal DeBetti r. Curumins, 1, tel. (11) 3819-2229 sex. a dom., das 12h às 23hFeed r. Dr. Mario Ferraz, 547, tel. (11) 5627-4700 seg. a sex., de 9h a 20h; sáb., de 9h a 19h; e dom., de 9h a 15h Almoço: seg. a sex., de 12h a 15h; sáb., de 12h a 16hVaranda Gourmet r. Gen. Mena Barreto, 794, tel. (11) 2659-0041 ter., de 9h a 19h; qua. a sex., de 9h a 20h; sáb., de 9h a 17h30; dom., de 9h a 16h Hamburgueria: ter. a dom., de 11h30 a 17h30 | comida |
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] | Gaúcha de Passo Fundo, a publicitária Clarice Chwartzmann, 53, cresceu vendo as mulheres da família encarregadas dos acompanhamentos durante os churrascos, enquanto os homens cuidavam da brasa."Sempre foi um conhecimento passado de pai para filho, raramente para filha", diz. A despeito disso, um time crescente de mulheres está tomando para si o manejo da grelha e dos espetos.Filha de Marcos Bassi (1948-2013), fundador do restaurante Templo da Carne e até hoje considerado uma das maiores autoridades paulistanas em carne, Tatiana Bassi, 44, ocupou seu espaço no muque.Desde 2016, ela conduz o curso Meet & Grill em um salão em cima do restaurante. Em dois anos, mais de 2.000 pessoas aprenderam com ela os segredos do churrasco. Mais No módulo 1, a R$ 290 por pessoa, o conteúdo inclui picanha e costela bovina, enquanto o módulo 2 (R$ 350 por pessoa) ataca a fraldinha e o carré de cordeiro."As mulheres ainda são minoria, cerca de 10% das turmas. Mas, em nosso empório, vejo muitas comprando a carne para o churrasco da família, cena que a gente não via pouco tempo atrás", diz Tatiana.Nos cursos do projeto A Churrasqueira, ministrados por Clarice Chwartzmann no Rio Grande do Sul, no Paraná, em São Paulo e em Minas Gerais, a proporção se inverte —mais de 90% das matrículas são de mulheres.Elas pagam a partir de R$ 250 por pessoa e fazem o intensivão de uma tarde, enquanto comem e bebem à vontade. O principal objetivo, diz Clarice, é aprender como lidar com o fogo diante de variáveis como o clima."Não sei por que nós nos afastamos historicamente da culinária da brasa e ocupamos só o lugar do forno e fogão. Felizmente, estão pipocando mulheres churrasqueiras pelo Brasil inteiro", diz.Criada em Presidente Prudente, interior de São Paulo, a chef Ligia Karasawa, 39, vem de uma família de criadores de gado de corte e diz que os churrascos sempre foram um ritual sagrado para o clã.Na cozinha do restaurante Brace, no topo do empório Eataly, em duas parrillas a carvão, ela assa carnes, peixes, aves e legumes.Ela também é membro fixo da Churrascada e tem sido convidada para eventos em outros estados. Nas horas de folga, é na brasa que prefere cozinhar as refeições.Lenha e carvão, para dela, conferem aos alimentos um sabor defumado sem igual."Comprei uma churrasqueira que é meu xodó, mas não tenho frescura. Se quero fazer churrasco na praia, empilho quatro tijolos e faço."Também criada em uma fazenda paulista, Paula Labaki, 50, proprietária do bufê Lena Labaki Catering, tem visto o contingente de mulheres crescer na plateia do curso Sete Fogos.Elas não têm medo do conteúdo pesado: pagam R$ 800 por pessoa para, ao longo de um dia inteiro, aprender a fazer churrasco de sete maneiras, incluindo fogo de chão."Cresci acostumada a ver o abate e a acompanhar peões nas invernadas. Mas precisei impor respeito. Participo de um grupo de churrasqueiros, no WhatsApp, com 370 pessoas. E só eu de mulher", conta.Em junho, também fez parte da minoria no evento Dark Mofo, na Austrália —além dela, só havia outras duas mulheres convidadas, uma neozelandesa e uma dinamarquesa.Sua tarefa foi assar dois bois inteiros e 250 aves no fogo de chão. Com só um assistente."Adoro mostrar que o churrasco não precisa ser uma refeição bruta. É possível, sim, partir de um boi inteiro e chegar a um prato delicado." | comida |
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] | Não há grandes mistérios para um bom churrasco. Há quem prefira fazer na brasa com lenha —as de laranjeira e macieira agregam um delicado sabor defumado, por exemplo.Há os que gostam dos resultados da churrasqueira com queimador a gás e pedra vulcânica. "Se é uma máquina de qualidade e a carne boa, não tem diferença do churrasco com carvão", acredita Jefferson Finger, chef churrasqueiro do Barbacoa.Há tem também os que, em vez da churrasqueira, vão de parrilla. Nela, a grelha fica mais perto da brasa, a cerca de 15 centímetros, ideal para cortes como o assado de tira, baixo e gorduroso.As preferências são muitas. As dúvidas, também. Para ajudar os entusiastas do bom churrasco, pedimos aos especialistas consultados neste especial dicas básicas sobre o que não pode faltar na hora de assar. Qual o primeiro passo?Antes de o fogo começar, reúna: churrasqueira, espetos, grelhas, tábua, faca, garfos, pratos, pegador, pano de prato, álcool em gel, carvão, sal grosso, carne e acompanhamentos.Como fazer o fogo?Quanto maior e mais profunda a churrasqueira, mais carvão ela comporta. Verifique se ele está seco e priorize pedaços grandes, que facilitam a circulação do ar.Nunca acenda o fogo com gasolina ou querosene. A melhor opção é álcool em gel 92 graus.Cerca de 20 minutos antes de começar o churrasco, coloque uma xícara de álcool na base do carvão e o acenda. Reserve um lado da churrasqueira para fazer o braseiro e, aos poucos, puxe as brasas para debaixo de toda a grelha.Com que carne eu vou?A compra da carne deve ser feita com atenção aos detalhes. Verifique a validade, o SIF (selo de inspeção federal), observe a cor e a espessura da capa de gordura. A carne deve estar rosada.Se estiver vermelho-escura é provável que tenha sido congelada e descongelada de forma errada. A capa de gordura deve ser uniforme, de preferência de cor branca.Gordura amarela pode indicar gado mais velho e, portanto, uma carne mais dura. Antes de ir para a grelha, a carne pode ser cortada contra a fibra em bifes de, no mínimo, 2,5 centímetros.Como dominar a grelha?Os cortes de carne devem ser temperados com sal grosso e levados à grelha até o ponto desejado. O tempo de cozimento e intensidade do calor são responsáveis pela suculência.Uma costela que leva horas para assar ficará longe do calor. Já uma picanha em bifes precisa de muito calor e pouco tempo na grelha.No geral, peças maiores podem ir a uma distância de 60 centímetros da brasa. Cortes mais baixos, como steaks, a 30 centímetros.Qual o seu ponto?Malpassada - De superfície bem grelhada, miolo vermelho vivo e úmido, conservando a estrutura original da carne cruaAo ponto para mal - Bordas com aspecto mais assado. Apenas o centro é avermelhado e úmido de sangueAo ponto - Superfície bem caramelizada, miolo com grande área vermelho-opaca e uma faixa rosada no centroAo ponto para bem - A carne estará mais rígida e toda a cor alterada para o tom rosado opaco, com poucos sucos no interiorBem-passada - A superfície torrada; o miolo, opaco e sem sucoBatata acompanha?Em maionese ou na brasa, a batata é sempre um ótimo acompanhamento para o churrasco.Primeiro porque é uma delícia; depois porque é bom ter carboidrato em uma refeição que geralmente é acompanhada por bebidas alcoólicas.Aproveite para assar legumes com maior teor de açúcar, como abóboras, beterrabas e cenouras. Elas ganham notas defumadas muito agradáveis. | comida |
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] | Eles são jovens, passaram por restaurantes influentes e têm consciência de que a gastronomia extrapola a cozinha e passa por questões sustentáveis. Também querem transformar o mundo.Com essa ideia, o chef Edson Leite, 34, criou o Gastronomia Periférica. Com sua própria cozinha-escola, oferece aulas de culinária gratuitas aos moradores do Jardim São Luís, na zona sul de São Paulo."A gente quer mostrar que não precisa de ingrediente caro. Dá pra usar o que tem em casa e comer barato", diz ele, que gravou aulas para um programa na internet que leva o mesmo nome do projeto.Leite começou como cozinheiro no restaurante A Leitaria Gourmet, em Lisboa, onde morou por sete anos. Voltou ao Brasil para enfrentar o elitismo na gastronomia e mostrar que é possível fazer e servir comida boa "na quebrada".Quem quiser conhecer suas criações pode provar as 11 etapas de seu menu-degustação (R$ 59), servido às sextas.A iniciativa de Leite chamou a atenção dos chefs Marcelo Corrêa Bastos (do Jiquitaia) e Raul Godoy (do Bio), que se voluntariaram para dar aulas. Atualmente, são cerca de 15 alunos, de 18 a 42 anos.A projeção foi reforçada com o lançamento de um aplicativo gratuito, também chamado Gastronomia Periférica, que mapeia onde comer bem no bairro e nos arredores.Leite está prestes a lançar uma nova versão do aplicativo. A ideia é que ele tenha geolocalização, o que vai permitir que os próprios estabelecimentos da periferia de todo o país possam se cadastrar.Segundo ele, o objetivo é dar visibilidade para estabelecimentos que estão fora dos circuitos já reconhecidos, como Pinheiros e Jardins, no caso de São Paulo.Outro chef engajado em projetos sociais é Cesar Costa, 27. À frente do Corrutela, na Vila Madalena, busca a sustentabilidade em toda a operação do restaurante. Desde a procedência dos ingredientes até cuidados com o lixo.Além de parceria com catadores do bairro e da compostagem dos resíduos orgânicos, o restaurante tem placas de energia solar e sistema de aproveitamento da chuva, que reduzem os gastos de água e luz em mais de 30%."Sustentabilidade é, hoje, um modelo de negócio. O restaurante tem que dar dinheiro, e meu ativismo é comprar, cozinhar e servir", diz Costa, que dispensa discursões no cardápio e nas redes sociais.João Augusto Batista, 27, é chef do restaurante Fazenda Culinária, no Museu do Amanhã, no Rio. Começou aos oito anos, ajudando em uma padaria na comunidade de Divineia, no Andaraí, onde vive.Conhecido como João Diamante, ele fundou o projeto social Diamantes da Cozinha. Com ele, ensina gastronomia "do cultivo à finalização do prato", como define, para interessados que não têm como pagar pelos estudos.As aulas, que incluem administração de custos a empreendedorismo, são ministradas por professores voluntários. Diamante reverte parte do salário para manter a iniciativa, que conta com doações."Meu projeto é uma forma de compartilhar o que aprendi", diz. Compartilhar, para ele, é o valor mais importante que define sua geração. "Temos sede de fazer e aprender, metemos a cara mesmo."ONDE FICAMGastronomia Periférica - r. João de Santana, 358 - Chácara Santana, São PauloCorrutela - r. Medeiros de Albuquerque, 256 - Vila Madalena, São PauloFazenda Culinária - av. Rodrigues Alves, 2 (Museu do Amanhã), no Rio de Janeiro | comida |
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] | O menu-degustação do restaurante Picchi, nos Jardins, muda diariamente.Na semana passada, um deles começava com um drinque à base de cachaça orgânica, mariscos selvagens e peixe de pesca ética, passava por um lagostim coberto por lardo (gordura das costas de porco alimentado com castanhas) e purê de mandioca de origem controlada. Passava também por um nhoque com urtiga e um sorbet roxo, graças à boa fase das beterrabas.Pier Paolo Picchi, que assina essas criações, cresceu perto de Cotia com um avô italiano que tinha um pomar, uma horta e um galinheiro. "Eu ajudava a colher", conta. À frente da casa que ostenta uma estrela Michelin, afirma que só aceita em sua cozinha o que de melhor for produzido. A colega Paola Carosella também elabora seus pratos a partir do fornecimento de orgânicos, nem sempre constante. "Pauto meu cardápio por eles, não pelo que estou com vontade de fazer. Por isso, busquei algo mais sólido do que comprar orgânicos de fazenda chique que vendesse ingredientes caríssimos."Ela queria algo que tivesse a ver com agricultura local. Foi quando, há quatro anos, chegou à Cooperapas, cooperativa de orgânicos de Parelheiros, no extremo sul de São Paulo, com a qual trabalha.A cozinheira argentina trabalhou com a inconstância de famílias que plantavam sem estufas, enfrentou hortaliça machucada e legume murcho e transformou muito vegetal em caldo, uma vez que as entregas não eram feitas por caminhão refrigerado."Tivemos muita paciência e eles também. O desejo de fazer tem de ser imenso para suportar complicações." Segundo ela, a qualidade dos produtos é sensacional. E os preços, compatíveis —ou mais baratos do que na Ceagesp.Hoje, é assim que abastece o cardápio do Arturito. Com ovos, frango, farinhas (de milho, de mandioca e de trigo), laranja, mel e carne orgânicos.São insumos que, até setembro, podem ser provados em entradas como as vieiras de Picinguaba assadas à lenha e cobertas por salsinha e migas do pão da casa (R$ 52) ou em pratos como a costelinha de porco criado solto (R$ 79) acompanhada pela mandioca roubochon (o purê amanteigado do tubérculo, R$ 12).As convicções são semelhantes para Ivan Ralston. "Só conhecendo na fonte se garimpam os bons produtos. E só sabendo em que quantidade existem se desenvolve o cardápio. Produto sazonal normalmente é bom e barato."Duplamente estrelado pelo guia Michelin, seu Tuju propõe o Menu do Mercado (sequência de seis tempos que muda todo mês, R$ 190) e o da temporada (o de inverno tem 13 passos, R$ 390). Entre composições vegetarianas, está a beterraba com iogurte de ovelha, tangerina e noz-pecã.Também vegetarianos e quase 50% orgânicos são os pratos da chef Mari Sciotti."Não tem uma especificação do que é orgânico na cozinha do Quincho porque tenho fornecedores que não conseguem se comprometer da mesma forma que grandes empresas de hortifrúti", diz. "Isso envolve desde uma entrega correta em horários preestabelecidos até boleto e facilitações de pagamento."Apesar disso, se esforça para comprar apenas de produtores que conhece por nome, sabe onde e como plantam e que telefonam para dizer o que está bom para colher.Outra questão que Sciotti coloca é a falta de padrão. "Trabalhar com orgânico significa aceitar a natureza da forma que ela é, mesmo que esteja feia." Sobre a imprevisibilidade no fornecimento, conta que teve de criar receitas com tomates e berinjelas por ter recebido cem quilos de ambos de uma só vez.O restaurateur Milton Freitas tem a vantagem de lidar com essas questões por meio do armazém do Jacarandá."O que fica ali à venda a preço de custo é o estoque. Se vejo que a cozinha não dará conta, peço para criarem um drinque com ervas ou hortaliças. Se houver sobras, levo para outro dos meus restaurantes, caso do Obá." Todas as suas saladas são orgânicas, assim como os cogumelos, a pupunha, o milho e o frango.O chef Andrea Montella, do restaurante do hotel Emiliano, avalia que é difícil ser 100% orgânico porque o mercado, no Brasil, ainda é jovem. "Comecei a ter leite e ovos com regularidade, garanto que os peixes e frutos do mar venham de pesca humana e de águas limpas. Mas só consigo ser totalmente orgânico na salada."Arturito - r. Artur de Azevedo, 542, PinheirosPrato de folhas, ervas e pancs com limão, mel, avelã e queijo manchego (R$ 22)Emiliano - r. Oscar Freire, 384, Jardim Paulista Salada de folhas orgânicas com legumes e chips de mandioquinha (R$ 45)Jacarandá - r. Alves Guimarães, 153, Pinheiros Shiitake assado na brasa com creme de queijo de cabra, limão-siciliano, focaccia da casa e folhas de salsa (R$ 28). Picchi - r. Oscar Freire, 533, Jardins Nhoque de batata asterix assada ao pomodoro, basílico e burrata (R$ 62)Quincho - r. Mourato Coelho, 140, Vila MadalenaNhoque de batata roxa com creme de castanhas (R$ 42)Tuju - r. Fradique Coutinho, 1248, Vila Madalena Beterraba, iogurte de ovelha, tangerina e noz-pecã, no Menu do Mercado (R$ 190) | comida |
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] | O estúdio de design Bompas & Parr, conhecido por suas invenções inusitadas com comida, criou um picolé que suporta até uma hora em temperaturas acima dos 24°C sem derreter. A técnica para ter gelados resistentes foi inspirada no Pykrete, material desenvolvido na Segunda Guerra à base de serragem, polpa de madeira e água, duro como o concreto quando congelada. A ideia dos designers era desenvolver um sorvete para tempos de aquecimento global. A Europa vive um dos verões mais secos e quentes dos últimos séculos.A novidade poderá ser provada no Museu Britânico da Comida, em Londres, na próxima quarta (22). | comida |
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] | EGG SALADA salada que é um sandubaReceita com ovos orgânicos da chef Gabriela Barretto, do Futuro Refeitório Ingredientes da salada 3 ovos cozidos1 colher (sopa) de maionese2 colheres (sopa) de endro fresco picado2 colheres (sopa) de alcaparras picadas1 colher (sopa) de vinagre de vinho tinto½ colher (sopa) de mostarda de DijonPimenta-do-reinoSalAzeite1 limão3 brioches em formato de pão de hambúrguerFolhas de alface sucrineModo de preparoPique os ovos cozidos inteiros até ficarem em pedaços pequenosAdicione o endro, as alcaparras, a maionese, a mostarda, o vinagre e misture bem. Tempere com sal e pimenta-do-reinoCorte os pães ao meio e doure o lado de dentro deles na chapa Separadamente, tempere as folhas de alface com um pouco de azeite, sal e limão Monte o sanduíche com uma colherada de ‘egg salad’ e algumas folhas da alface temperada Sirva com um pouco da conserva (receita a seguir)Ingredientes do picles de cenoura1 colher (sopa) de mostarda em grãos½ colher (sopa) de kümmel 1 ½ xícara (chá) de vinagre de vinho branco1 xícara (chá) de água½ xícara (chá) de açúcar1 colher (sopa) de sal1 folha de louro2 ramos de endro3 cenourasModo de preparoEm uma panela, coloque todos os ingredientes —exceto as cenouras. Deixe o líquido ferver por 3 minutos e espere esfriarCorte as cenouras em fatia finas, no sentido do comprimentoColoque-as em um pote e cubra com o líquidoFeche o pote e conserve em geladeiraVITRINE NA MINHA COZINHA SEMPRE TEMAna Soares, chef do Mesa III Pastifício e Rotisseria1. Alho Como com casca e tudo! Apenas quebro para perfumar verduras e assados, tostados na frigideira ou forno. Gosto cru, laminado ou picado sem embrião2. Tomate O momotaro é o meu favorito. Temperado com alho cru, sal, pimenta, um bom azeite e uma erva da horta pode acompanhar muito bem uma massa3. Azeite e manteiga Toda massa que faço, escorro e tempero com azeite e manteiga. Pão com manteiga ou pão com azeite? Os dois! Esfregar alho no pão tostado e regar com azeite é uma refeição4. Ervas frescas Incrível como uma erva fresca faz qualquer verão! Mude a erva e você muda o sabor do prato. Use todas que tiver à mão para temperar, perfumar e dar novo sabor | comida |
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] | "Na Antiguidade, dizem que os escandinavos apreciavam tanto a manteiga que pediam para ser enterrados com um barril dela. Até hoje, ela é tão importante que continua presente nos funerais, casamentos e comemorações", conta Denise Guerschman, produtora culinária que abriu recentemente o Escandinavo, em Pinheiros.Ali, a manteiga é feita diariamente."Ela precisa ser macia porque o pão sueco é muito fino e não pode quebrar. No dia em que é feita, ela é um creme", explica Guerschman, que costuma salpicá-la com diferentes sais.Entre os nórdicos, o islandês possui cristais límpidos e graúdos. Já o vulcânico, de sabor defumado, pode ser mesclado a cogumelos. O da casa, em contrapartida, leva raiz-forte da própria horta e adquire personalidade marcante. As receitinhas aparecem ao lado dos pães (R$ 16) e na tábua de frios (R$ 32). No Futuro Refeitório, há uma versão vegana, à base de amêndoas: "Dos frutos secos, a amêndoa é a minha preferida e já era usada para fazer leite. Ela é fácil de fazer, não leva nada além da amêndoa e tem uma textura ótima, bem cremosa", conta a chef Gabriela Barretto, que a acompanha com torrada de fermentação longa e natural (R$ 10).Cesar Costa, por sua vez, teve contato com manteiga fermentada em 2014, na Califórnia, nos EUA. Durante os testes para seu recém-nascido Corrutela, usou o leite mais gordo (52%) da Fazenda Atalaia, em Amparo, no interior, e o inoculou com kefir por 24 horas.Chegou à manteiga que serve no couvert (R$ 9,50, com pão da casa)."Com os dias, ela se torna mais 'queijuda'. Eu gosto dela com quatro ou cinco dias, por exemplo, mas é uma evolução sutil no nível da acidez. O mais interessante é entrar também no aspecto da saúde: quando você come uma manteiga dessa, está se nutrindo com probióticos", explica Cesar.Nos últimos meses, Luiz Filipe, do Evvai, inseriu uma régua de manteiguinhas em seu menu-degustação (R$ 220, com oito etapas)."No México me apaixonei por uma manteiga de massa madre. Quando voltei, estava provando levains desidratados. Testei um mais ácido, um mais tostado, um com um pouco mais de chocolate, outro de malte. Sirvo para o cliente decidir aquele de que gosta mais", conta.Também ousadas e untuosas são as versões servidas no couvert do Ânima Mea (R$ 10), oficialmente aberto na semana passada. Lá, o chef Jeovane Godoy leva cubos extremamente gelados de manteiga artesanal a um cantinho da grelha, onde eles recebem a fumaça abafada de lenha frutífera, como de ameixeira ou pessegueiro.Depois, o cozinheiro aera a pasta com um toque de limão e a tempera com um pozinho de alho-poró, feito na brasa.Mas seu maior atrevimento é a manteiga de porco: "Sou de Itararé, no interior, e lá é normal usar banha, ter um porco na lata", afirma ."Aqui, muita gente não come, mas decidi arriscar. Aromatizo a manteiga em fogo brando, com alho, pimenta, tomilho, orégano e outras ervas frescas. Depois deixo gelar e bato na batedeira com sal e limão. Fica uma pastinha branca, saborosa, que cubro com farofinha de bacon."Mais light, Heloisa Bacellar começou a preparar uma com café para a página Na Cozinha da Helô. Fã confessa de manteigas aromatizadas, a chef já deu até cursos sobre elas e tem diversas receitas em seu livro "Cozinhando para Amigos" (DBA, R$ 129,90).Ânima MeaR. Pedroso Alvarenga, 935, Itaim Bibi, tel. (11) 4175-9148CorrutelaR. Medeiros de Albuquerque, 256, Vila Madalena, tel. (11) 3032-2443EscandinavoR. Deputado Lacerda Franco, 141, Pinheiros, tel. (11) 98606-3299EvvaiR. Joaquim Antunes, 108, Pinheiros, tel. (11) 3062-1160Futuro RefeitórioR. Cônego Eugênio Leite, 808, Pinheiros, tel. (11) 3085-5885 | comida |
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] | Minha viagem era para provar vinhos, mas uma constante foi aparecendo enquanto eu avançava pelas estradas do país: excelentes vinhos, atrevimentos, líquidos fora do lugar comum, feitos por mulheres. Algumas das melhores garrafas que provei eram criação de jovens enólogas cheias de entusiasmo.Uma curiosidade do Chile, onde há produtores gigantescos, é permitir que jovens se atrevam a experiências nas grandes companhias, em vez de serem, por décadas, apenas o sub do sub do enólogo até poderem fazer um vinho. Nem todos são enólogos chefes, mas opinam e têm bastante liberdade criativa.É assim na vinícola Santa Rita, com Teresita Ovalle. Ela me mostrou, ainda sem rótulos, os "field blends" —feitos a partir de castas de uva misturadas. Nesse caso, elas são colhidas e fermentadas juntas, sem que se procure saber muito o que são. Anotei o nome divertido que ela deu a essa aventura, "field blends atômicos".O vinho branco é uma mistura de moscatel, semillon, corinto, sauvignon blanc e outros elementos. As uvas são fermentadas com a casca, que dá corpo e alguns taninos, em barricas abertas e com as leveduras do meio ambiente (nem vou tentar explicar tudo isso, mas é só doideira).O Floresta tinto, por sua vez, uma mistura de uva do país com carmenère, é floral, delicado, fora da curva.Foram os dois vinhos que escolhi para o jantar, no meio de clássicos. E que jantar.O antigo casarão da vinícola, cercado por jardins, é monumental e luxuoso, e um tapete gobelin enfeita a sala de jantar. Há três fantasmas conhecidos no lugar, mas nenhum apareceu para mim, infelizmente.O que me deu um susto foi o encontro com Andrea Léon, enóloga da Lapostolle, com um de seus vinhos da série Collection, um sémillon com torondel em que se forma uma flor —ou seja, tem oxidativos de Jerez. De um frescor maravilhoso, talvez tenha sido o mais atrevido vinho que provei na viagem toda. Foi bebido com ostras, e espero ansiosamente que seja engarrafado e chegue ao mercado.Ela me apresentou um syrah igualmente de grande estirpe, mantendo o estilo franco-chileno da empresa, um pouco da personalidade do Rhône no vale de Colchagua.Essa degustação foi em outro cenário, na praia de surfistas de Punta Lobos, com estranhas areias negras vulcânicas, um balde cheio de gelo, garrafas e um barco com ostras e outros frutos do mar. Da formalidade do jantar à francesa para uma beach party. https://www.google.com/maps/d/embed?mid=1oybaAtgAZRjwS5n2dziQ2NvttsPg1M86Na Viña Veramonte foi Sofia Araya quem me mostrou seus vinhos. Destaquei o chardonnay Ritual. Longe daqueles chardonnays carregados de madeira, delicado, foi um dos melhores dessa uva que provei na viagem. Um estilo mais para o frescor e a vontade de beber, sem o pesadão do uso excessivo de carvalho.Na Undurraga, Pilar Diaz apresentou os T.H. (linha terroir hunter) em que trabalha como co-enóloga. Lá, o Carignan de Maule me cativou; com aromas florais, é muito fino, uma rara mistura de potência com elegância.Já Viviana Navarrette, da Viña Leyda, é responsável por alguns dos melhores pinots noirs que provei, lindos sauvignons blancs e (mais um) syrah estupendo.Aí a cena era no campo. Visitei dezenas de calicatas na viagem. Calicatas são recortes fundos no terreno, algumas têm mais de três metros de profundidade, onde os produtores descobrem o perfil geológico de suas terras. Ali, você vê as raízes entrando na argila, no calcário, na areia, o que for o perfil do terreno. Isso permite, cada vez mais, saber o que e onde plantar.E, finalmente, fiz uma degustação maravilhosa na Concha y Toro, em que se prova cada uma das sete parcelas de cabernet sauvignon e uma de cabernet franc que irão compor o blend final do Don Melchor 2017.A co-enóloga Isabel Mitarakis, assistente direta de Enrique Tirado, mostrou como nasce o ícone: você prova cada vinho separadamente, e tenta modificar as quantidades de cada um (um é mais doce, outro mais duro na boca, um terceiro mais delicado e por aí vai). Não adianta, seu Don Melchor nunca será o que eles decidiram, depois de uma centena de misturas.A chamada "experiência Don Melchor", essa aula inesquecível, vai ser aberta ao público no futuro. É outro ambiente faustoso, um casarão senhorial, com muita pompa. Os brasileiros predominam: 80% do público turista é daqui, pois além da marca ser muito conhecida por nós, a vinícola fica praticamente dentro de Santiago.Marques de Casa Concha Chardonnay R$ 99 no Ville du Vin (villeduvin.com.br)Santa Rita Carmenére Medalla Real R$ 59,94 no Pão de AçúcarLeyda Pinot Noir Reserva R$ 74,90 na Grand Cru (grandcru.com.br)Lapostolle Red Blend R$ 133,98 na Mistral (mistral.com.br)Undurraga Aliwen Pinot Noir R$ 62,90 na Bacco’s (baccos.com.br)Ritual Pinot Noir Veramonte R$ 119 na wine.com | comida |
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] | Nós sempre teremos Paris...Engraçado, hoje escrevi um texto com esse título. Era sobre um roteiro muito particular da cidade luz, praticamente meu segundo lar.Sou uma cozinheira muito determinada. Minha formação é clássica, mas não formal. Durante alguns anos tive receio de revelar que sou autoditada. Hoje digo sorrindo: sou autodidata!Durante uns três, quatro anos, antes de dar conta de fazer tudo direitinho no meu primeiro emprego —chefiar a cozinha do Palácio da Alvorada, com uns 20 e poucos anos—, aceitei o desafio pessoal de aprender a cozinhar.A cultura francesa sempre me encantou, o culto absoluto ao ato de comer, o ritual, o respeito aos ingredientes. E Joël Robuchon sempre foi meu mestre imaginário. Comprei todos os seus livros, devorei todos os seus saberes. Me tornei uma cozinheira disciplinada e muito rígida com o padrão, a qualidade, o respeito e a hierarquia. No Palácio da Alvorada, minha equipe era toda de militares, um prato cheio para colocar em prática os ensinamentos do mestre imaginário que todos diziam ser durão.Durante anos dialoguei com ele. Questionei, mostrei que tinha aprendido as lições, frequentei seus restaurantes e tremi só de pensar na possibilidade de encontrá-lo.Certo dia tocou o telefone no meu restaurante. Era do 50 Best: "A senhora foi eleita a melhor chef da América Latina, parabéns". Confesso que não sou de me pautar por prêmios, agradeci, mas disse que não sabia se poderia comparecer à premiação.Acabei indo, dediquei este prêmio, assim como todos os outros, à minha musa inspiradora: minha avó Iracema. Voltei para o meu restaurante e a vida seguiu normal.Outro dia, tocou o telefone novamente, era alguém que fazia parte da equipe do meu mestre imaginário: Joël Robuchon soube que você virá à França e gostaria de lhe conhecer.Desta vez as pernas tremeram do momento em que disse "oui" até a hora em que coloquei os pés no seu laboratório, onde ele me esperava sorridente, com uma garrafa de champanhe gelado.Passamos horas agradáveis, ele falou muito mais do que eu, seja porque o seu francês era muito mais fluente... Seja porque eu simplesmente não podia acreditar no que estava me acontecendo!Não consegui dizer para ele que estudei tudo, todos as técnicas, todos os gestos, toda minúcia, todo as bases, toda a essência da cozinha com apenas dois mestres: ele e Antonin Carême.Não consegui dizer quantas vezes repeti seu purê de batatas para chegar perto do que ele desenhou com perfeição. Não consegui dizer que os cubos neuróticos do meu tartare de abóbora têm origem no seu perfeccionismo.Não consegui dizer quantas vezes viajei a Paris apenas com o objetivo de jantar no Jamin. Na minha opinião, o seu grande templo de todos os tempos. Não consegui dizer para ele o quanto o amava.Só consegui dizer: merci. Merci, chef. O banquete no paraíso será incrível daqui em diante com você e Carême conduzindo o piano. E, afinal, nós sempre teremos Paris... Boa viagem! | comida |
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] | A Bienal do Livro de São Paulo, que vai até 12 de agosto no Anhembi, não traz estandes de importantes editoras de livros de gastronomia, como Alaúde e Senac São Paulo. Ainda assim, apresenta lançamentos.Um deles é "Comida de Santo que se Come", da Arole Cultural. A obra, com 34 receitas preparadas pelo chef Carlos Ribeiro, do Na Cozinha (SP), traz estudo do antropólogo e babalorixá Vailson Caetano sobre comidas de candomblé. Além dos pratos, a obra atualiza o tema, tratado em vasta literatura por estudiosos.Segundo Caetano, tais comidas têm função de servir de elo entre a comunidade e seus ancestrais. O tratamento especial nos terreiros, com palavras de encantamento e complexos rituais de sacrifício, particularizam tais preparos, de consumo cotidiano.Entre as receitas, o axoxô de Oxóssi (que representa as migrações humanas) e os abarás de Obá, a orixá guerreira. À venda desde maio, "Sanduíche! Impossível Resistir a essa Tentação", do jornalista Dias Lopes, é o destaque da Melhoramentos. Traz receitas e conta as histórias a partir das preferências do autor.Entre os escolhidos estão o sanduíche Woody Allen, criado pela delicatessen Carnegie Deli, de Nova York, o Bauru, criado em 1937 no paulistano Ponto Chic, e o Croque Monsieur, que surgiu em 1910 no bistrô Le Bel Âge, em Paris.No estande da Abril, vale espiar "Receitas de Vó", de Mariana Weber. A partir de cadernos de cozinheiras, conta a história de pratos de família, dá receitas de doces e salgados tradicionais de festas infantis e destaca preparações com a cara da feitas pelas avós.Outra novidade é "Cozinheiros em Ação", do paraense Thiago Castanho, publicado pela Globo Estilo. É um compilado de receitas dos vencedores da quinta temporada do programa da GNT (que dá nome ao livro), ao lado de pratos feitos pelo chef e apresentador.A cachaça ganha relevo em duas publicações: "Cachaça - História, Gastronomia e Turismo", de Jairo Martins da Silva (Senac São Paulo) e "Os Segredos da Cachaça", de João Almeida e Leandro Dias (Alaúde). Com estilos diferentes —o primeiro, mais técnico aprofundado, e o segundo, didático e de linguagem atraente—, abordam produção da bebida, regiões produtoras e aspectos de degustação.A Panda Books, também ausente na Bienal, lança "Pizzas que Contam a História de São Paulo", de Gabriella Erbetta. Em texto bilíngue (português-inglês), conta a história de dez pizzarias, como a Castelões, do Brás (as fotos, em P&B, poderiam ser melhores). | comida |
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] | tradicional da cultura nipônica para aquecer dias mais friosPor Denis Watanabe, chef do restaurante Kitchin, em São PauloIngredientes do Dashi (caldo)2 e ½ xícaras de água1 pedaço de 5 cm de alga½ xícara de lasca de peixe bonito curado e seco2 colheres (sopa) de saquê licoroso1 unidade de shitake seco6 e ½ colheres (sopa) de shoyuModo de preparoEm uma panela, introduza a água, o shitake seco e a alga;Leve a panela ao fogo mínimo e, quando surgirem bolhas em volta dos ingredientes, retire-os;Acrescente as lascas de peixe, o saquê licoroso e shoyu;Coe cuidadosamente e reserve. Ingredientes do tempurá de camarão½ xícara de água gelada4 colheres (sopa) de tempurako (farinha para tempurá)1 camarão (tamanho pode ser escolhido a gosto)Óleo de girassolFarinha de trigo para empanarModo de preparoMisture a água e o tempurako até formar uma massa homogênea, não muito grossa;Passe o camarão na farinha de trigo e, depois, na massa;Frite em imersão de óleo de girassol, até ficar dourado;Reserve. Ingredientes do Nabeyaki Udon1 porção de macarrão Udon1 shitake fresco1 ramo de shimeiji1 talo de cebolinha1 folha pequena de acelga30 gramas de frango cortado em tiras1 lâmina de kamaboko (massa de peixe prensada)1 lâmina de tikuwa (massa de peixe)1 camarão (tempurá)1 ovoModo de preparoEm uma panela para nabeyaki feita de cerâmica, podendo ir direto ao fogo (ou qualquer outra que seja funda e de pequena dimensão, para que o caldo não fique raso em uma panela maior), coloque o macarrão previamente cozido, os demais ingredientes —exceto o ovo e camarão— e o caldo até cobri-los;Leve ao fogo. Após a cocção dos ingredientes, acrescente o ovo, finalize com o tempurá de camarão e sirva.Observação: Os ingredientes kamaboko, tempurako e tikuwa são comprados prontos e podem ser encontrados no bairro da Liberdade em São Paulo ou em casas de produtos orientais. Rafael Navarini, chef e proprietário do Restaurante Mensa1. Ovo Fácil e versátil, eu e minha namorada amamos. Às vezes recebemos alguns ovos caipiras da fazenda do avô dela. Meu jeito preferido é o frito!2. Abacate Também é bem versátil. Dá pra grelhar, comer cru, fazer purê. E vai super bem com os ovos.3. Batata Dura bastante na geladeira e, na correria do dia a dia da cozinha, nem sempre dá tempo de fazer compras, né? Além disso, salada de batata é um prato de que eu gosto muito e comemos com frequência aqui em casa.4. Vinho Adoro vinhos e gosto de receber amigos em casa. Sempre tenho alguma garrafa para servir ou, às vezes, algum amigo traz e acaba ficando na geladeira. A noite, quando chego do Mensa, gosto de tomar uma taça.17 a 19/8 e 24 a 26/8Festival de gastronomia O Clube Hípico de Santo Amaro recebe neste mês a terceira edição do Taste of São Paulo. Com palestras e aulas, estarão presentes 70 chefs e 80 expositores com produtos à venda. Entre os nomes estão Ana Luiza Trajano (Instituto Brasil a Gosto), Chico Teixeira (Le Jazz) e Fabio La Pietra (Astor). No site saopaulo.tastefestivals.com há a programação completa e link para a compra de ingressos. Até 21/9Hora do brunch O Radici por Brace, novo restaurante pop up do Eataly, terá um brunch todo segundo e quarto sábado do mês. Ele será servido das 10h às 14h e será elaborado pela chef Lígia Karazawa. Haverá opções como panquecas, quiches e croissants doces e salgados. O Eataly fica na avenida Presidente Juscelino Kubitschek, 1.489. | comida |
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] | Com o Festival Fartura chegando ao fim, os chefs participantes do evento finalmente têm um tempinho para descansar.Foram dois dias intensos no Jockey Club, com cerca de mil pratos ou porções servidos em cada barraca. Além do natural contato direto com o público, a festa permitiu uma grande troca de experiências e sabores com seus pares. Cafira Foz, do Fitó, conta que o que prevaleceu foi a sensação de pertencimento no evento. “Por ser relativamente nova no ramo, às vezes tinha vergonha de interagir com outros chefs”, afirma.André Saburó, do Quina do Futuro, em Recife, corrobora o sentimento, mas conta que foi difícil encontrar tempo. “Estava tudo muito corrido, mas conversamos e trocamos experiências antes da chegada do público”, brinca.Quando conseguiu escapar de sua barraca, assim como os outros chefs, André experimentou pratos de outros profissionais. Entre os seus preferidos, o matambre (corte bovino entre a pele e a costela) recheado com pinhão e polenta de milho crioulo preparado por Rodrigo Bellora, do Valle Rústico, no Rio Grande do Sul.Ao receber o mesmo questionamento, Rodrigo não consegue escolher só um. “São muitos sabores, o que mais gosto do festival é essa possibilidade de provar pratos completamente distintos”, diz.Raspando o tacho. Com um olho no repórter e outro na fritadeira, Victor Dimitrow, do Peti, diz que se surpreendeu com o volume de vendas do seu bolovo. “Olha o meu estado! A gente não esperava tanta gente. Mas, fora o cansaço, o festival está demais”, conta.Apesar das dificuldades estruturais, Luiz Filipe Souza, do Evvai, considera eventos como esse importantes para “penetrar públicos diferentes”. | comida |
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] | As cerca de 4.000 pessoas esperadas pela organização do Fartura neste sábado (4) encontraram uma vasta gama de opções para matar a fome no festival, que ocorre no Jockey Club. Praças de alimentação sempre lotadas e equipes de limpeza trabalhando a todo vapor enquanto petiscos, lanches, pratos principais e sobremesas são disputados pelo público.Resultado: filas de todos os tamanhos. Baseado no volume de pessoas à espera para pedir e receber seus pratos, a reportagem elegeu o menu campeão do evento.Começando pela entrada, zero surpresas. A maior fila de toda a festa é para comer a coxinha de carne de sol e requeijão de raspa de Caetano Sobrinho, comandante do restaurante Caê, em Belo Horizonte.O chef explica a popularidade. “Coxinha agrada sempre, não tem mistério”, afirma. Ele também conta que a qualidade dos ingredientes, vindos diretamente do norte de Minas Gerais, é um grande diferencial para agradar o exigente público. Na fila, pessoas que buscavam uma opção mais tradicional na festa ou que ouviram falar bem do preparo de Caetano. Para o prato principal, subimos um pouco no mapa do Brasil. Vindo da Bahia, o chef Fabrício Lemos, do restaurante Origem, surpreendeu o público com seu aratu (crustáceo da família do caranguejo) com farofa de dendê e arroz de coco. Dá para sentir de longe o perfume do prato.O chef explica que o grande diferencial do preparo é a origem de seus produtos, que vieram diretamente de uma cooperativa em Valença (litoral baiano). “O festival fala do produto na sua origem, então a grande pegada é respeito ao ingrediente”, diz. A sobremesa é do Norte, mais precisamente de Manaus. No brownie amazônico de Talita Avelino, geleia e creme de cupuaçu, além de castanhas do Pará caramelizadas, dão uma cara nova ao tradicional bolo.Tarefa difícil foi conversar com a chef. Além de atender os clientes, ela ligava para a mãe e pedia um reforço na barraca. “Tive que ligar e pedir mais brownies, porque já está acabando”, conta. A receita, desenvolvida especialmente para o festival, leva “cupuaçu de verdade” e é servida quente (quando a fila deixa). | comida |
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] | Ao caminhar pelo Festival Fartura - Comidas do Brasil, é possível notar que produtos regionais do campo e receitas gastronômicas da cidade ficam lado a lado.Tarefa mais difícil é mensurar a quantidade de trabalho investido pelos produtores e pela organização do evento durante as Expedições Fartura, quando a equipe do festival roda o Brasil catalogando ingredientes, receitas, produtores, histórias. Numa dessas viagens, pelo Vale do Paraíba, litoral norte do estado de São Paulo, produtores artesanais como Flávio Bragato puderam reforçar estes laços estaduais. Flávio comanda a Fecularia Nossa Senhora de Brotas, em Lindóia, que produz farinha de milho em um processo de torra artesanal que está praticamente em extinção.O grão é transformado em canjica, passa por um tanque de água por até dois dias, é triturado e só então vai para o forno. O produto, que ganha formato de biju, é extremamente versátil. Ele explica que, por manter a qualidade e a receita de seu produto, “os chefs das grandes cidades começaram a vir até nós”. Entre os apreciadores do insumo, estão Alex Atala, do D.O.M., e Heloisa Bacellar, do Lá da Venda.Falando em milho, outro personagem da região é o chef Rafael Cardoso, conhecido como Rafa Bocaina, em homenagem à região em que decidiu se estabelecer. Ele produz milho vermelho, natural da região, milho preto e milho guarani —espécies cada vez menos comuns por aqui.Também realiza um trabalho de resgate de raças de porcos da Serra da Bocaina, como o Caruncho. O grande diferencial da espécie é que tem menos gordura e a pele mais fina, e por isso é melhor para pururucar. Durante o Festival, Rafa e sua equipe preparam alguns garunchos no fogo de chão. Entre as barracas de produtores, as mais concorridas também são paulistas. Diretamente de Bragança Paulista, a Linguiçaria Real Bragança é sinônimo de tradição. Desde as tradicionais linguiça defumada e curada, que remontam aos tempos dos bandeirantes, até as versões recheadas, com ingredientes não usuais como açaí, podem ser comprados pelo público. Patricia Polato, grande alquimista da charcutaria, trabalha com chefs de renome como Claude Troisgros e Checho Gonzales. Outro fenômeno do evento é a barraca do Caminho do Queijo Artesanal Paulista. A cooperativa, composta por 12 produtores de queijo do estado, possui cerca de 150 queijos no seu catálogo. Entre os produtos, queijos de vaca, búfala, cabra e ovelha.Em sua terceira edição paulistana, o Festival Fartura recebe mais de 75 atrações gastronômicas de todo o país neste sábado (4) e domingo (5), no Jockey Club. O ingresso custa R$ 25. | comida |
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] | Do místico arroz tapajônico do Pará ao consagrado pão de queijo de Minas Gerais, a gastronomia brasileira é extremamente farta. São sabores, ingredientes e preparos que vão além do prato —como nos mostra o Festival Fartura. Em sua terceira edição em São Paulo, a festa ocupa o Jockey Club neste final de semana (dias 4 e 5) com estandes, receitas, aulas teóricas e práticas que retratam e valorizam essa diversidade. Renomados nomes da gastronomia local como Cafira Foz, do Fitó, e Luiz Filipe Souza, do Evvai, recebem seus pares que vêm de todo o país. De Recife, o chef André Saburó traz à festa um croquete tipicamente japonês (ebi korokke), com um ponzu (molho) de pimenta de cheiro, característico de Pernambuco. O bacon da Fazenda Yaguara, produzido artesanalmente no interior de seu estado, também será usado no preparo. Estreantes no evento enquanto coletivo, os 12 produtores que fazem parte do Caminho do Queijo Paulista reforçam o coro. Heloisa Collins, mestre queijeira do Capril do Bosque, em Joanópolis, conta que existe uma grande interação. “É muito bacana o volume de negócios que a gente consegue realizar”, diz. Em seu estande, o Caminho terá cerca de 45 tipos de queijo à venda.E foi justamente a partir destas trocas de experiências, por meio das Expedições Fartura, que o evento se consolidou. Rodando o Brasil desde 2012, o projeto já passou por todos os estados do país, entrevistando mais de 500 personagens da culinária brasileira e mapeando ingredientes. “Os eventos são alimentados sobretudo pelo material que colhemos nas expedições, que mapeiam a cadeia produtiva da nossa cozinha, da origem ao prato”, conta a jornalista Luiza Fecarotta, curadora do Fartura e crítica da Folha. “Nesta edição, há uma série de conexões com a viagem que fizemos pelo Vale do Paraíba e arredores, como a farinha de milho caipira de Lindoia, que visitamos com a equipe e estará à venda no festival”, conta.Ao todo, serão mais de 75 atrações gastronômicas, divididas em seis categorias: Chefs e Restaurantes, Petiscos, Lanches e Doces, Espaço Conhecimento, Espaço Interativo, Cozinha ao Vivo e Produtos e Produtores. O festival ainda passa este ano por Tiradentes, Belo Horizonte, Brasília, Fortaleza e Belém, além de Lisboa, em Portugal. O festival, que festeja a gastronomia nacional, chega à terceira edição paulistana com mais de 75 atrações, entre chefs de todo o país, palestras, aulas práticas e estandes de produtores. O público poderá degustar receitas como a paella amazônica, preparada pelo chef Diogo Sabião, do Pannino, de Porto Velho (RO). | comida |
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] | No comando do SubAstor há cinco anos, tirando uns meses à frente do Peppino Bar, o italiano Fabio La Pietra parece já ter usado toda sorte de ingredientes nos drinques da casa. Misturou vodca com castanha de caju e carne seca, uísque com chá preto defumado e rum com manteiga de garrafa.Com a nova carta do speakeasy na Vila Madalena lançada há duas semanas, o bartender dá mais um passo em direção ao inusitado, ao se valer de ingredientes como a abóbora."Quis homenagear a biodiversidade brasileira, ainda pouco explorada pelos mixologistas do país", diz La Pietra.As seis novas criações são batizadas apenas com o nome do ingrediente principal —o bioma do qual cada um faz parte está indicado entre parênteses no cardápio.Para preparar o coquetel abóbora (R$ 34), que representa o Pantanal, ele cozinha em cerveja ale a variedade cabotiá e a tempera com tomilho, alecrim e castanha de baru. Coado, o resultado é misturado a uísque single malt, fermentado de mel e shoyu. Nos próximos meses, a carta ganhará seis outras criações do tipo com ingredientes como o maxixe, semelhante ao pepino, e folhas de ora-pro-nóbis e capuchinha. Parte das plantas utilizadas é cultivada num jardim vertical instalado há pouco numa parede do bar.Não é só ali que hortaliças e ingredientes do gênero são os novos queridinhos da coquetelaria, na qual até há pouco só se viam o suco de tomate do bloody mary e as fatias de pepino no gim-tônica."As frutas e especiarias foram exploradas demais pela coquetelaria", diz Gabriel Santana, que comanda as coqueteleiras do Benzina, também na Vila Madalena. Sua invenção nessa linha, o Pepperista, combina pimentão vermelho macerado com xarope de baunilha e licor de pêssego, gim e limão-siciliano (R$ 18).A poucas quadras de distância, nesse mesmo bairro paulistano, o Guarita criou o Broto, que leva tintura de beterraba, bem sutil ao paladar, gim, calda de especiarias, suco de limão-taiti, gotas de vinagre branco, clara de ovo e, ufa, pó de casca de laranja (R$ 31)."Era de se esperar a invasão dos legumes e das verduras na coquetelaria, pois ela espelha a gastronomia e cresceu no Brasil na esteira dela", teoriza o bartender Jean Ponce, mandachuva do Guarita. "E se há algo que os chefs prezam agora acima de tudo são os alimentos saudáveis e orgânicos".A beterraba também dá cor e sabor ao Satang Muu, que é servido no Micasinha, em Pinheiros, e leva ainda wasabi e o destilado de arroz soju (R$ 24).Outra atração do mesmo endereço é o Chicabô, uma mistura de suco de abobrinha, cardamomo, clara de ovo, calda de açúcar e cachaça envelhecida (R$ 24).Comandado por Rogério Souza, o Frajola, o bar Sylvester foi inaugurado há poucas semanas com direito a um coquetel feito com purê de cenoura, vodca, mel, limão e hortelã (R$ 26,90). Tem tido ótima saída.No Guilhotina, bar em Pinheiros chefiado pelo bartender Márcio Silva, um dos drinques mais solicitados não deve nada a muitos sucos verdes. Trata-se do Hulk Smash, com salsão, pepino, manjericão, limão, vodca e gim (R$ 29).Há mais. Na rede Pirajá, uma versão do gim-tônica ganha rodelas de jiló desidratado e capim-santo (R$ 28). É o Gin-ló Tônica. No carioca Pipo, dentro do shopping Fashion Mall, o restaurante mais informal do chef Felipe Bronze, esse mesmo clássico vem condimentado com picles de maxixe (R$ 29).Nem alho falta a essa salada etílica. O ingrediente aparece na receita do Influenza, previsto para entrar nas próximas semanas na carta do Volátil, em Perdizes, inaugurado há poucos dias.A autoria é do paulistano Luis Marcelo Nascimento, sócio do bar. Ele cozinha nacos de alho no mel e os retira a seguir com uma pinça. Num copo com uma grande pedra de gelo, a mistura ganha a companhia de rum, limão e um alho inteiro, decorativo."É um drinque complexo, para quem gosta de sabores intensos", acrescenta um dos donos do Volátil. "É ideal para quem está gripado." | comida |
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] | Por Valdir Oliveira, chef do restaurante Cantaloup, em São PauloIngredientes Massa2 xícaras de chá de purê1 xícara de chá de purê de beterraba 4 colheres de sopa de farinha de trigo 1 colher de sopa de semolina 1 gema de ovo 2 colheres de sopa de parmesão ralado 1/2 colher de sopa de manteiga sal e pimenta a gostoRecheio1/2 xícara de chá de mozarela de búfala 1/2 xícara de chá de mozarela ralada 1 colher de sopa de parmesão 1 colher de sopa de manjericão picado sal e pimenta a gostoMolho3 colheres de sopa de cebola picada 2 colheres de sopa de manteiga 1/2 xícara de vinho branco 2 colheres de sopa de alho-poró picado sal e pimenta a gosto 2 xícaras de creme de leite para reduzir a ¾PreparoMassaCozinhe as beterrabas e esfrie com a própria água em que cozinhou. Em outra panela cozinhe as batatas, retire da água e deixe esfriar. Coloque a mozarela de búfala para escorrer.Passe a batata em uma peneira fina. Retire a beterraba da água, bata em um processador. Misture a batata com a beterraba, acrescente o parmesão, sal e pimenta. Amasse a mozarela até que vire um patê e coloque o manjericão bem picadinho. Abra a massa e modele os nhoques. Recheie com a mozarela e polvilhe farinha de trigo sobre eles para não grudarem entre si.Adicione água em uma panela e deixe ferver. Mergulhe os nhoques para cozinhar. Retire da panela e coloque-os em uma tigela com água e gelo para manter a cor.MolhoEm uma panela coloque metade da manteiga, refogue a cebola, acrescente o vinho branco e, quando ele evaporar, acrescente o creme de leite. Deixe reduzir, passe em uma peneira fina e deixe em fogo baixo.Em outra panela coloque o restante da manteiga, refogue bem o alho-poró e misture no creme já reduzido. Reserve.FinalizaçãoColoque o molho em uma frigideira e, quando estiver quente, coloque os nhoques para saltear. Daniela França Pinto, chef do restaurante Cortés Asador1. Farinha de copioba Gosto muito de farinha de mandioca do tipo copioba, especialmente porque ela é supercrocante –esse “croc croc” decorrente da baixa umidade que ela tem. Sem contar que crocância é um dos principais atributos de textura que afetam positivamente a aceitação de um alimento. 2. Arroz carolino É o mais típico de Portugal, com centenas de anos de história. Tem um aroma que se prende ao paladar e à memória, graças ao amido. É equivalente ao arbóreo italiano e pode ser usado para fazer até sobremesa (um arroz-doce, por exemplo). Inesquecível!3. Ovos orgânicos De galinhas bem cuidadas, alimentadas com ingredientes cultivados sem agrotóxicos, fertilizantes e transgênicos. E num sistema equilibrado, que respeite a sustentabilidade do solo e dos recursos naturais. 4. Gordura de palma Substituo o óleo convencional da fritura pela gordura de palma, por ter um ponto de fumaça elevado (232° C), mantendo-se estável sob alto calor –por isso, bem mais saudável. | comida |
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] | Alimentos sem agrotóxicos, mais saborosos e com preços acessíveis. Para quem está acostumado a garimpar orgânicos nas gôndolas dos supermercados, parece uma ideia utópica.Mas para o geógrafo e agricultor Arpad Spalding, 38, é uma realidade palpável. Desde 2008, trabalha ajudando produtores do distrito de Parelheiros, no sul de São Paulo, a plantar e vender orgânicos.Em 2013, trocou a zona oeste por um sítio na região e passou a plantar ao lado de agricultoras que ajudou a capacitar. "Quis me envolver de forma profunda, mudar minha vida para fazer o que acho que as pessoas ali devem fazer."Nos últimos três anos, em parte devido ao trabalho dele, as vendas da Cooperapas crescem de 20% a 30% ao mês. Hoje, 36 cooperados fornecem para 20 estabelecimentos (feiras, lojas e restaurantes).Em entrevista à Folha, Spalding aborda desafios de plantar sem agrotóxicos, os preços altos dos orgânicos e modelos de distribuição de alimentos que poderiam encurtar o caminho do campo até a mesa. Virou senso comum dizer que orgânicos são mais caros. Isso é verdade?Nas grandes cadeias de supermercado, sim. Não significa que o agricultor orgânico receba muito mais, algo que justifique a diferença. As redes tratam o orgânico como item de luxo. Têm a ideia de que quem consome esse produto não se preocupa com preço. No fim, a margem de lucro dos supermercados é maior com orgânicos.Mas escala e a forma de distribuição também são um problema, não?O que faz o preço é o mercado e a distribuição. No modelo convencional, o agricultor familiar —que produz a maior parte do que se consome— recebe muito mal porque não tem acesso a centros de distribuição e os produtos trocam de mãos muitas vezes. Tenta-se, com os orgânicos, uma cadeia em que haja remuneração justa. É preciso mudar a distribuição.Quais seriam essas mudanças?Principalmente trabalhar com menos ou sem atravessadores, vender localmente. Assim é possível melhorar a remuneração do produtor e criar uma relação direta com quem consome. Aproxima o urbano do rural, valoriza o agricultor e faz com que ele queira produzir melhor, porque conhece o consumidor. Em feira convencional, é raro achar um agricultor vendendo o que ele plantou. Em feiras orgânicas, é comum. E ali os preços são parecidos com o dos alimentos convencionais.Isso é possível em larga escala?Rumamos para isso. A oferta de orgânicos hoje é maior do que há cinco anos. Agricultores estão se organizando para manter a oferta. Consequentemente, muitos restaurantes compram produtos locais. As prefeituras têm a diretriz de priorizar produtos locais para merenda escolar. Pensar num país do tamanho do Brasil consumindo só orgânicos e localmente não é utópico?Há um limite. São Paulo consome coisas que vêm do Japão, da China e isso não vai mudar. Mas muitas vezes um produto vem de Minas Gerais para São Paulo para depois voltar a Minas. Uma alface não precisa viajar metade do país para chegar à mesa. Há um custo ambiental aí que não pode ser desprezado.A agricultura orgânica é mais importante para quem planta ou consome?A preocupação com a saúde é o principal motivo para as pessoas comprarem orgânicos. Mas acho que é mais importante para o agricultor, o ambiente e a manutenção do homem do campo. A produção orgânica cria impactos positivos. Capta carbono, mantém a flora e torna o solo fértil. A convencional produz uma série de impactos negativos. O custo, do assoreamento de rios, da poluição dos lençóis freáticos, do empobrecimento do solo, é pago por toda a sociedade.Plantar orgânico é mais difícil?O agricultor orgânico precisa ser um cientista. Criar uma relação com a terra, saber as manhas para produzir ali. Até ter um ambiente equilibrado, precisa dedicar muito tempo e suor. Mas, numa produção estabilizada, não há mais grandes dificuldades e os custos de insumos diminuem. O agricultor vira senhor do seu reino. Sabe o que acontece ali, enquanto que ao plantar da maneira convencional, faz o que o cara da loja de veneno mandou.Por que a certificação orgânica ainda é difícil?Ela é um sistema de controle que exige documentos para comprovar o que ocorre em cada propriedade. Exige uma capacidade de registro e compilação de dados desafiadora para muitos pequenos agricultores. É preciso haver entidades de assistência técnica e de apoio.Existe algum alimento que não dá para ser produzido de maneira orgânica?A gente tem tecnologia para produzir praticamente tudo. O que não tem é recurso. Não existe uma grande produção de morango, por exemplo, porque não há estufas. Isso ocorre, em parte, porque o acesso ao crédito é menor do que para o agricultor convencional.Por quê?Por ausência de políticas públicas para o setor, porque técnicos da área de crédito não têm formação em agricultura orgânica. A produção convencional parece mais simples, por isso há mais facilidade no crédito. Se você tiver uma determinada área, aplicar determinada quantidade de veneno, tem uma garantia maior de resultado. Orgânicos dependem mais da habilidade do agricultor e da assistência.Existe alguma oposição aos orgânicos?O PL do Veneno [projeto de lei 6.299/02], por exemplo, não só trará problemas de saúde como vai dificultar a vida do agricultor orgânico. Ele traz propostas para limitar o uso de insumos feitos pelo próprio produtor para tratar pragas e doenças.Geógrafo, formado pela USP, trabalha há dez anos capacitando agricultores para comprar e vender orgânicos em Parelheiros. É consultor da prefeitura em projeto que busca fortalecer a agricultura local. Desde 2013 planta e vende alimentos orgânicos. | comida |
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] | Quando se trata de segurança alimentar, uma sigla controversa divide a ciência: IDA (Ingestão Diária Aceitável). Determinado por pesquisas toxicológicas, o índice usado no país se baseia em padrões americanos e europeus.Mas é possível determinar um índice seguro para o consumo de defensivos agrícolas? "Ainda não existe toxicologia em quantidade suficiente para formar evidências", diz Paulo Saldiva, patologista da USP e membro da Agência Internacional de Pesquisa em Câncer.Para comprovar possíveis consequências da exposição cumulativa a doses baixas de agrotóxicos, como as encontradas nos alimentos, seria necessário iniciar a investigação na gestação, e acompanhar os indivíduos por anos.A maioria das pesquisas é realizada em animais, que, segundo a Associação Brasileira de Saúde Coletiva, indicam danos em regulagens hormonais, ciclos reprodutivos e formação de células cancerosas.Mas em humanos dependem de variáveis como doenças adquiridas, hábitos e repertório genético, além da combinação do impacto de substâncias usadas em conjunto e da poluição do ar, por exemplo."No Brasil, temos cerca de 540 ingredientes ativos registrados, em um pimentão você pode encontrar 19 deles. Isso daria uma progressão geométrica de combinações", diz Raquel Maria Rigotto, professora do departamento de saúde pública da Universidade Federal do Ceará. | comida |
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] | O debate em torno do projeto de lei que pode alterar regras do uso de agrotóxicos (o chamado PL do Veneno) opõe empresas que dizem buscar mais competitividade no exterior e chefs, ambientalistas e ativistas que temem contaminação de alimentos.Parte defende, como alternativa no controle de pragas, a expansão do cultivo orgânico, que nunca foi tão grande. Há diversas estratégias em curso.Bel Coelho, chef do Clandestino, afirma que prioriza "qualidade e saúde" ao optar por esse tipo de alimento, além de evitar poluição com o transporte da produção de pequenos produtores do cinturão verde de São Paulo.Cesar Costa, do Corrutela, defende a rastreabilidade. "É preciso conhecer o trabalho do produtor, e não ficar só da boca para fora. O que acontece no campo tem um impacto direto na comida." Sua carta enxuta de parceiros inclui nomes como a Cooperapas (Cooperativa Agroecológica dos Produtores Rurais e de Água Limpa da Região Sul de São Paulo), em Parelheiros, que realiza importante trabalho agrícola sustentável na cidade.No Le Manjue, do chef Renato Caleffi, uma horta orgânica própria, em Vinhedo (SP), supre grande parte das necessidades da casa. São verduras, legumes, plantas alimentícias não convencionais (pancs) colhidas semanalmente e levadas para o restaurante. Para buscar o que não consegue produzir, ele se alia a pequenos produtores. Há teste da certificação de seus parceiros comerciais todos os anos.Outra forma encontrada por restaurantes para incentivar o trabalho de pequenos produtores de regiões próximas é realizar pedidos maiores ou comprar safras inteiras.No Bio, restaurante de Alex Atala comandado pelo chef Raul Godoy, prevalece a negociação constante. "Alguns produtores perguntam o que mais utilizamos aqui e aumentam as quantidades do cultivo. Às vezes, compramos mais para garantir aquele ingrediente por mais tempo", diz Godoy.O projeto de lei em tramitação no Congresso gera incertezas sobre o cultivo no país.Um consenso entre acadêmicos que estudam modelos de plantio e distribuição de alimentos é que não é possível se livrar completamente dos agrotóxicos, especialmente em grandes culturas, e sim minimizar e controlar o uso.Mas o projeto de lei 6299 —proposto em 2002 pelo então senador Blairo Maggi (hoje ministro da Agricultura)— sugere esvaziar órgãos federais.A liberação de agrotóxicos também pode ser afetada. O diretor-executivo da Associação Nacional de Defesa Vegetal, Mário Von Zuben, diz que o desenvolvimento de um produto leva quase 11 anos e cerca de US$ 300 milhões de dólares (quase R$ 1,2 bilhão).O tempo médio de espera do registro para que o produto chegue ao mercado gira em torno de oito anos. Em outros países grandes produtores de soja, como Argentina e Estados Unidos, cai para dois. | comida |
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] | O que uma fruta da Mata Atlântica tem em comum com saraus, ocupações estudantis e plantas não convencionais? Todos são ingredientes que movimentam empreendimentos gastronômicos das periferias de São Paulo listados pelo "Prato Firmeza", um guia de comida das quebradas da capital e região metropolitana.Mapeados pelos jovens jornalistas da Escola de Jornalismo da Énois, uma escola e laboratório de jornalismo que reúne jovens principalmente das periferias para produzir projetos e reportagens, os restaurantes fazem parte da websérie "Comida de Quebrada", lançada em parceria com a Tv Folha.Confira:Sem ConservadoresO metrô é o ponto de encontro para quem encomendar as receitas de Cristiana, dona do negócio. Especialista em comida vegana a baixo custo, ela cultiva na própria casa as PANCS (plantas alimentícias não são comercializadas em mercados ou feiras) como taioba e ora-pro-nóbis.Alla CociA marca usa o chocolate para divulgar letras de rap de artistas de Mauá e de cidades vizinhas. Composta por uma rede de amigos artistas e músicos, a marca estampa alfajores de vários sabores vendidos em saraus da região e usa a economia colaborativa para conseguir fabricar os doces sempre em cozinhas diferentes.Restaurante da MarleneFica localizado em Parelheiros, extremo sul da capital, e tem como diferencial o uso do cambuci, fruta com nome de bairro do centro de São Paulo nativa da Mata Atlântica. Nas mãos de Marlene e Kelly, mãe e filha que comandam o lugar, o ingrediente aparecem em receitas como o molho agridoce da costelinha de porco e também em geleias, musses, cachaças e sucos.C-BurguerFica na região sul a hamburgueria artesanal criada por Matheus quando ele tinha apenas 16 anos. Durante os movimentos de secundaristas de 2015, quando os estudantes ocuparam 191 escolas contra a reorganização do ensino proposta pelo governo estadual, ele era um dos responsáveis pela alimentação dos alunos. Após a fase de mobilizações, buscou o apoio da família para abrir o próprio restaurante e levou o pai para a cozinha. Hoje, o lugar atende via delivery na região do Parque Santo Amaro.Prato FirmezaA ideia de produzir um guia gastronômico que mapeasse bons lugares para se comer fora do eixo central da cidade surgiu em 2011, em uma das primeiras formações dadas pela Énois. Foi de um dos alunos, Matheus Oliveira, apaixonado por comida da região do Capão Redondo.Desde então, a publicação já teve sua versão online e, em 2016, o primeiro volume impresso, premiado com o 6º lugar na categoria gastronomia do Prêmio Jabuti. O segundo volume do guia será lançado no dia 2 de agosto, no restaurante Mocotó, com mais 38 lugares para se comer bem nas quebradas paulistas.A publicação faz parte da Escola de Jornalismo da Énois, que forma dez0 jovens de diferentes periferias da cidade por ano. No processo formativo, eles estudam e produzem jornalismo, apoiados por uma equipe técnica e humanística e com bolsa de R$ 600 por mês.A parceria com a Tv Folha surge em uma nova fase do guia, utilizando o audiovisual como ferramenta para contar histórias que discutam o sentido político da comida. As histórias escolhidas para a produção trazem a resistência de pessoas que usam a culinária para tocar os negócios e valorizar as trajetórias.Vinícius Cordeiro é da Énois | comida |
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] | Na primeira quadra para quem desce do metrô Ana Rosa sentido bairro da Aclimação, na zona central de São Paulo, o aroma de carne assada recebe os passantes. Do espeto do comerciante libanês Saad Zaikir, dono da casa Kome Kome, saem as tiras para montar um shawarma (R$ 15). A opção vegetariana, com falafel (R$ 15), é suculenta como a original.O bairro esconde pérolas. Descendo mais um pouco, cadeiras de praia e luzes penduradas no quintal de uma casa grande são as pistas de que aquela não é uma residência comum. A Beth Bakery, padaria artesanal da empresária Beth Viveiros, fica movimentada no brunch de sábado.Entre os sanduíches do menu, vale destacar os de pão de brioche: salmão curado e cream cheese com geleia de tomate (R$ 17), e mozarela fior di latte com pesto e abacate (R$ 17). Os cookies (R$ 10) e o bolo de chocolate com caramelo salgado (R$ 10) convidam a esticar a tarde ali. Do outro lado do parque da Aclimação pode ser encontrada uma ótima trinca de asiáticos. O coreano e o chinês se assemelham na clientela: a maior parte das mesas é ocupada por comensais da mesma origem dos pratos servidos.De salão simples, o coreano BiCol surpreende com o famoso dolsot bibimbap (R$ 49). Feito com arroz, vegetais, e ovo de gema mole, é servido em uma tigela de pedra quentíssima, formando crostas deliciosas na parte inferior.De três salões, o restaurante China Garden tem capacidade para 380 pessoas. A gerente e os donos são da região de Wenzhou, de forte tradição gastronômica.Há dois menus. Um, mais refinado, traz clássicos como o secular Pato de Pequim (R$ 158). Fatias finas da pele crocante da ave são servidas com banquete para montar a panqueca oriental na hora.O outro, mais singelo, é inspirado nos típicos restaurantes de Dim Sun, nos quais os clientes pedem pequenas porções e passam horas beliscando. Tem o bun (R$ 9), pão de massa fofa, dumplings (R$ 9 a R$ 16) e diversas sopas.A um quarteirão, no tailandês Thai Chef, a língua corrente na cozinha é a mesma daquele país. O chef Noom e a esposa, Fabiana, cozinham clássicos da culinária local, como o pad thai (R$ 59 a R$ 69), e apresentam sabores ao paladar brasileiro, como o tom kha kai (R$ 39 a R$ 49), que leva leite de coco, folha de limão kaffir e galangal, um primo mais perfumado do gengibre.Para digerir, um passeio à volta do lago do parque da Aclimação encerra a programação com o que o bairro tem de melhor a oferecer.Kome KomeR. Dr. José de Queirós Aranha, 44Beth BakeryR. Paula Ney, 298 - WhatsApp: (11) 94183-5634BiColPça. Gen. Polidoro, 111 - tel.: (11) 3341-3745China GardenAv. Turmalina, 45 - tel.: (11) 2389-8887Thai ChefAv. da Aclimação, 297 - tel.: (11) 2389-4119 | comida |
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] | Toda quinta, por volta das 14h, a capixaba Raquel Blaque, 39, amarra um tule amarelo na cabeça e vai à xepa. "Nega, pode pegar tudo aqui!", grita um vendedor, chamando-a pelo apelido, sobre verduras de sua banca que não resistiriam à próxima feira.Ela pega a banana jogada na sarjeta, que vai virar um doce, a manga com manchas na casca, que resultarão em um chutney, aparas de mandioca, que ferverá longamente com limão, sal e polvilho azedo até chegar ao ponto de queijo, o seu mandioqueijo.A transformação do que iria para o lixo em comida acontece no coletivo Casa Amarela, em Perdizes, onde Blaque mora com outras seis pessoas.O movimento, que ela chama de Creative Commes —um trocadilho com Creative Commons (tipo de licença de direito autoral mais flexível)—, é uma das ações contra o desperdício de comida que pipocam em São Paulo. Na falta de iniciativas de peso do poder público, grupos ou indivíduos estão investindo tempo, estudos e dinheiro do próprio bolso para chamar atenção ao problema ou saná-lo em alguma medida.Numa das coletas do Casa Amarela acompanhadas pela Folha, foram reunidos cerca de 100 kg de alimentos —o suficiente para abastecer a casa e uma entidade ou ocupação. "É sintoma de miséria isso ser desprezado. Não é lixo, é recurso!", defende Blaque.Ela chegou a São Paulo há oito anos e, desde então, é coletadora —ou freegan, na expressão em inglês. Vive do que a cidade dá. Filha de diarista e pedreiro, é formada em jornalismo e em gastronomia pela Gastromotiva, organização que dá cursos com projetos de impacto social.Seu trabalho de conclusão de curso foi baseado na orientação de comerciantes para a distribuição correta de sobras que não estão com boa aparência para a venda, mas que ainda têm valor nutricional.Há outras iniciativas na área, como o Instituto Guandu, criado por Fernanda Danelon, 45. O objetivo era coletar o lixo dos restaurantes e, em vez de desperdiçá-lo num aterro, usá-lo para adubar hortas dos estabelecimentos.Um ciclo sustentável que aproximaria os cozinheiros do cultivo dos ingredientes que acabaria novamente no prato.Danelon tentou criar um lugar para a compostagem do material. Esbarrou na burocracia. Chegou a levar sobras dos 25 restaurantes em seu próprio carro para compostagem em outra cidade. Descobriu que usinas de Campinas e Jundiaí tratam o lodo resultante de indústrias e o misturam com o resíduo urbano."O resultado é um composto que não pode ser usado em agricultura. Sem leis municipais que regulamentem a coleta, não teremos investimentos e tratamento só de restos de comida. Nem as empresas de lixo investirão nisso. Ganham para deixar tudo como está."Há uma lei federal —a Política Nacional de Resíduos Sólidos— que prevê que todo o lixo gerado nas cidades do país seja tratado. Para Ana Paula Bortoleto, professora da Unicamp e especialista em engenharia urbana e ambiental pela Universidade de Tóquio, o problema é que, no Brasil, aterro (alternativa mais barata) é considerado tratamento.Para seguir com o projeto, Danelon teve de repensar o modelo e mudar o foco: hoje, ela trabalha com a instalação de torres de minhocários e hortas cultivadas com o adubo proveniente deles em cinco casas de São Paulo, como a rotisseria Mesa III."Precisamos dizer para as pessoas que é preciso usar a cebolinha até o final. Contar que cada um de nós produz 600 g de resto de comida por dia —e somos 200 milhões."Segundo a FAO (braço da ONU para alimentação e agricultura), o Brasil é um dos dez países que mais desperdiçam comida —quase 28% das perdas são na fase do consumo.Ao se deparar com dados assim e pilhas de frutas jogadas no Ceagesp, há três anos, a advogada Daniela Leite, 44, começou o processo que levaria a um projeto que inclui conscientização em empresas e escolas e o aplicativo Comida Invisível. Nele, 3.000 restaurantes divulgam sobras da produção, de ingredientes a alimentos processados. Na outra ponta, entidades ou indivíduos podem ser beneficiados."A história de que os restaurantes não podem doar comida é um equívoco. Mas eles precisam ter a mesma responsabilidade na doação que têm na venda", diz Leite.Milton Freitas, 48, dono de casas como Jacarandá e Antonietta, afirma que até mesmos partes que supunham interessantes, como ostras e cabeça de polvo, encontram destino —no caso, uma escola de gastronomia.A academia também pesquisa a transformação em energia do alimento descartado. Em sua dissertação, Evelin Rodrigues, 28, doutoranda em prevenção de resíduo na Unicamp, mostra como a sobra diária de 20 mil bandejas de três restaurantes universitários poderia, com o apoio de empresas privadas, abastecer a demanda energética de um deles e de outro prédio do entorno. | comida |
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] | A gastronomia produzida fora do centro expandido de São Paulo cresce em ritmo acelerado, enquanto o interesse que desperta e o mapeamento da nova cozinha tentam correr atrás.A forte expansão enseja iniciativas como o guia "Prato Firmeza", cuja segunda edição será lançada em agosto. O roteiro gastronômico apresenta 38 restaurantes, bares e deliveries espalhados por bairros como Carandiru e Paraisópolis, além de cidades da zona metropolitana como Osasco, Diadema, Ferraz de Vasconcelos e São Bernardo.A ideia surgiu em 2011 com um dos primeiros alunos de jornalismo da Énois, Matheus Oliveira, apaixonado por comida da região do Capão Redondo. Ganhou uma versão digital e cinco anos depois, teve versão em papel. A iniciativa foi tão bem recebida que se tornou parte da formação de jornalistas oferecida pela ONG Énois, com duração de um ano. No último processo, 280 pessoas disputaram dez vagas.A nova edição será lançada no Mocotó, restaurante referência do movimento de saída do centro paulistano ao atrair o público para endereços periféricos. O volume mostra que há comida boa fora do centro e as histórias de cada negócio ante as adversidades do mercado.A apuração do guia permite aos alunos reconhecer o próprio território e perceber que a periferia não é apenas uma.Guilherme Petro, que foi repórter na primeira edição e produtor na segunda do guia, relata que o "Prato Firmeza" o tornou mais ativo no bairro onde mora, Parelheiros, no extremo sul da capital paulista. A região, hoje conhecida pela crescente produção orgânica, sequer antes chamava a atenção do estudante.Formado em gastronomia, ele redescobriu o próprio bairro, como o restaurante da Dona Marlene, presente na primeira edição, que usa frutas nativas da mata atlântica preservada na região e os legumes e verduras orgânicos locais. "Para mim, esse é um lugar de referência na cidade, equiparado aos restaurantes das zonas mais centrais", afirma Petro.A última turma de alunos do curso da Énois é a responsável pela websérie "Comida de Quebrada", lançada em parceria com a TV Folha.Hamburguer do Chef Rua Manoel Taveira - Saída do metrô Parada InglesaSegunda a sexta, 14h às 22hBar do Lopes Avenida do Cursino, 1293 - Jardim da Saúde Segunda a sexta, das 7h às 24h; sábado, das 8h às 24h; domingo, das 8h às 23hEsfihas Dozza R. Armênia, 468, Presidente Altino Segunda a sábado, das 12h às 22hSem Conservadores Entrega nas catracas do metrô (a combinar) Tel.: (11) 95281-6957 | comida |
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] | Por Benny Novak, chef e proprietário da Tappo Trattoria, em São PauloIngredientes:200 g de espaguete Grano Duro (pode ser substituído por bucatini)1 xícara + 1 col (sopa) de queijo pecorino ralado (mais o suficiente para a finalização) 1/4 xícara de água da cocção da massa1/2 colher (chá) de pimenta-do-reino moída (na hora, preferencialmente)Preparo:Cozinhe a massa em uma panela grande com água fervente e sal. Tire o espaguete dois minutos antes de ficar al dente e reserve a quantidade de água indicada acima Em uma frigideira, adicione a água do cozimento e aqueça sem deixar ferver. Acrescente a massa e desligue o fogo Aos poucos, vá adicionando o queijo e mexendo até emulsionar a mistura. Atenção: não coloque água após adicionar o queijo! Pare de mexer assim que der corpo à mistura e obtiver uma espécie de creme. Adicione a pimenta-do-reino e misture Divida entre dois pratos fundos e finalize com um pouco de queijo pecorino e pimenta-do-reino moída na hora Renata Vanzetto, chef do Ema, Marakuthai, MeGusta Bar e Matilda Lanches1. Coentro “Uso em pratos com peixes e frutos do mar, além de receitas com toques asiáticos ou da cozinha baiana como a moqueca, e até em pratos tailandeses com curry e pratos típicos mexicanos e peruanos como a guacamole e o ceviche. Também estou colocando o coentro em sanduíches”2. Pimenta jalapeño “Gosto de usar em pratos mais fortes, como os da culinária mexicana e faço o picles de jalapeño para usar em sanduíches. Sempre compro ela fresca no mercado Quitanda, em Pinheiros”3. Chocolate com nibs de cacau da AMMA “Como puro, mas também uso para fazer doces. Derreto o chocolate e misturo com creme de leite para fazer uma ganache que dá para usar como recheio de bolos e tortas. Ele é bem amarguinho e muito bom!”4. Limão “Uso em tudo! Ele está na base de tudo, nas maioneses, faço até molho de limão. Ele é básico! Acho limão caipira para comprar sempre no Instituto Chão na Vila Madalena” | comida |
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] | Sou do Vale do Paraíba, nascido em Cachoeira Paulista e criado na pequenina Silveiras, na Serra da Bocaina. De lá saí aos 17 anos e para lá voltei com minha esposa e filha há pouco mais de cinco anos, para a indignação de alguns colegas cozinheiros. Deixar a carreira ascendente de chef de cozinha e fazer sabe-se lá o que, sei lá onde, era demais para eles. Você está doido? Está num momento muito bom para se meter na roça!Estava trabalhando em Belo Horizonte, vinha de duas temporadas como apresentador de um programa de TV e acabara de ganhar alguns dos principais prêmios de Beagá.Silveiras fica a 222 km de São Paulo e tem uns 6.000 habitantes, pequenos produtores rurais em sua maioria. Na pequena fazenda da família, me dedico a criar porcos soltos, da raça crioula caruncho, já quase desaparecidos das comunidades tradicionais. Uma vida muito diferente da que têm chefs de restaurantes sofisticados. Vendemos leitões, embutidos, pães, conservas e laticínios que produzimos. Também garimpamos produtos no entorno e recebemos em casa grupos para aulas e vivências. Entre os luxos desse êxodo urbano está o fato de minha filha saber de onde vem a comida.Diferentemente do cenário de 2013, quando me mudei para a Bocaina, o êxodo urbano hoje é um fenômeno relevante. Tenho acompanhado casos semelhantes ao meu. São quase sempre pessoas de até 40 anos buscando dar um sentido maior a sua existência, através de diversas frentes ligadas à Terra. Voltar me deu a oportunidade de me tornar um cozinheiro de fato, sem o aleijamento imposto à cozinha em um ambiente urbano. Os aspectos românticos que envolvem essa jornada de retorno à terra não se comparam aos ganhos na prática. Tenho em mãos milhos crioulos perfumados, leite fresco e gordo, ovos vivos, galinhas, porcos e vitela de uma qualidade fantástica, méis de mandaçaia, jataí e arapuá, cafés deliciosos, peixes fresquíssimos e azeites extraídos a oito quilômetros da fazenda. Tenho a alegria de resgatar técnicas tradicionais, participar da construção de monjolos, de conhecer velhos cadernos de receitas.A vida no campo nos impõe um novo olhar sobre a vida e as pessoas, um olhar mais humilde, menos dominador. Quando as maritacas devoram uma roça inteira de milho, você se enxerga do tamanho que é e derruba sua ilusão de criatura dominante.Nesse tempo confuso em que vivemos é necessário dar dois passos atrás para tomar um novo rumo. Não se trata de retroceder, mas de corrigir a rota para seguir adiante. Não proponho que as pessoas abandonem as cidades, mas que, de alguma forma, se reconectem com a Terra, porque não há maneira melhor de se reconectar consigo mesmas. Rafael Cardoso Cozinheiro, produtor rural e proprietário do Curiango | comida |
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] | Das três casas que Troisgros tem no Leblon, a CT Boucherie destoa de sua pegada mais recente. Aberta em 2010, é uma churrascaria rodízio invertida onde o cliente escolhe uma carne, e a brigada de garçons passa com os mais diversos acompanhamentos, servidos à vontade.O minúsculo Chez Claude é a menina dos olhos. Instalado numa loja de galeria, tem a cozinha aberta no meio do salão de 30 lugares, sem reservas. Cozinheiros servem as mesas. Os vinhos são vendidos em taça. O pessoal fala alto. O cardápio sucinto tem porções pequenas para dividir. Nada do que se poderia esperar de um dos melhores restaurantes franceses da cidade.Alguns pratos são clássicos da França, outros já foram servidos no Olympe, e há as novas criações. Todos são muito bem executados pela chef-executiva Jessica Trindade.A comida chega à mesa fumegando. Ostras gratinadas com molho bechamel (R$ 38) têm surpreendente contraste de temperaturas e texturas: o topo é quente e cremoso, mas o molusco dentro ainda está cru. Vieiras com espuma de cogumelos (R$ 38). Ovos mexidos com salmão defumado. Tartare de atum com pepino e missô.Na noite da visita, testava-se receitas do novo menu que deve estrear nesta semana. A melhor: versão Troisgros da arraia com beurrenoisette. Ultrafresco e cozido só até separar as lascas, o peixe vem com manteiga queimada, alcaparras, lâminas de amêndoas e batatas-bola assadas (R$ 58).Entre as sobremesas, o bolo de chocolate da Tia Bia (R$ 28), que o perseguiu até entregar-lhe o tal doce. Ele provou, gostou e adotou. | comida |
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] | O jornal Aujourd'hui en France revela nesta segunda-feira (9) que 10 milhões de garrafas de rosé espanhol foram vendidas como vinho francês nos últimos anos. O jornal teve acesso a um relatório do Ministério da Economia com os resultados de dois anos de investigações sobre a "fraude do século" no setor vinícola francês.O escândalo é investigado desde 2015 pela Direção-Geral para Concorrência, Consumo e Repressão de Fraudes, órgão subordinado ao Ministério da Economia, quando surgiram as primeiras denúncias. Ao longo de 2016 e 2017, fiscais realizaram inspeções em toda a cadeia de produção: viticultores, importadores, distribuidores e restaurantes, em todo o território nacional.As conclusões da investigação são edificantes: 22% dos estabelecimentos visitados pelos fiscais em 2016 apresentaram irregularidades nas vendas de vinho rosé, como, por exemplo, etiquetas enganosas e falsificação na origem da bebida. Os quatro maiores comerciantes de vinho do país guardavam em seus estoques cerca de 10 milhões de garrafas etiquetadas como rosé francês, quando na verdade era espanhol, de produção mais barata.A fraude foi motivada pelo lucro. Enquanto o litro de rosé francês custa de € 0,75 a € 0,90 na compra do produtor, o litro do rosé espanhol varia de € 0,34 a € 0,40. A garrafa com o selo de certificação IGP (abreviação de "indicação de produção protegida") costuma ser vendida a partir de € 3 ou € 4. Em razão do grande volume de consumo, principalmente durante os meses de verão, a bebida espanhola comercializada como produto francês é bem mais rentável. Constatada a fraude, as autoridades francesas abriram processos penais contra os falsificadores.Consumidor deve conferir etiquetasEntrevistado pelo Aujourd'hui en France, Ludovic Roux, viticultor e presidente de uma cooperativa de produtores de vinho do sul da França, diz que o impacto do escândalo no setor é devastador. Ele afirma que os produtores lutam para combater a usurpação dos selos de certificação, mas as fraudes são frequentes.Para o consumidor ter certeza da origem do vinho, é preciso desconfiar da menção "engarrafado na França", usada na maioria das vezes para vinhos estrangeiros. O país de origem da bebida deve obrigatoriamente constar do rótulo detrás da garrafa. Esta informação não deve ser confundida com a indicação geográfica do vinhedo, apontada pelas siglas AOP, AOC ou IGP.O termo "domaine" (domínio ou propriedade, em português) pode se revelar enganoso. Ele pode ser usado livremente, sem nenhum tipo de controle. Em pelo menos uma das etiquetas deve estar explicitado o volume da bebida (75 cl), o teor alcoólico, a localidade, o nome e o número de registro da empresa responsável pelo engarrafamento do vinho. | comida |
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] | Felipe Castanho, do restaurante Remanso do Bosque, em Belém1. Mandioca “A mãe de todas. Na mesa e na cultura, ela nos representa. Dona Nazaré é que nos fornece tucupi, compramos quase toda a produção dela.2. Chocolate “De origem amazônica, de preferência. Vou ao menos uma vez por semana à ilha do Combú, praia dos belenenses. De quebra ainda volto com estoque de massa de cacau renovado”3. Trigo “Pode parecer um ingrediente óbvio, mas gosto muito de fazer pão, um dos alimentos mais democráticos, cujo preparo me intimidava. Envolve tato, percepção (do ar/ambiente/levain). Hoje compreendi como ele funciona. É um dos poucos ingredientes que você pode fazer muito com pouco”4. Peixe “Fui criado nesse ambiente graças ao meu pai, de Santarém. Sempre tivemos essa cultura de comer peixe, assado, frito ou cozido. Hoje temos um relacionamento concreto com fornecedores que conhecem o nosso padrão e nos entregam três vezes por semana. Assim podemos trabalhar com uma matéria-prima fresca. | comida |
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] | Logo às 10h, estaciona um carro em frente ao restaurante. A rua é íngreme, e o motorista tem certa dificuldade para fazer a baliza. A porta do passageiro se abre e uma senhora desce do carro com passos precisos. O motorista corre um tico para acompanhá-la e ela diminui o passo em sua deferência. É a Dona Nina:"O que você tem aqui? Tem varenikes? Tem pastrami? Me mostra o pastrami. Faz gefilte fish? Sou sefa*, o que estão fazendo para o almoço? É quibe? Ah! Mas tenho que te dar a minha receita, é a melhor de todas, melhor do que a do Brasserie Vitória, você vai ver. Ah! Não quero varenikes, a mãe da minha nora faz, não precisa. Mas aqui é longe, né? Vim lá do Morumbi. E esse pastrami? Não corta um pedaço pra mim? Da ponta não, do meio, isso, bem aí."Atendo o telefone. Sr. Moisés do outro lado da linha. "É da Paca Polaca? Vocês fazem gefilte fish?" Sim, fazemos. "Mas é com que peixe?" É com carpa, senhor. "Não põe traíra?" Não, não senhor. "Mas a minha mãe misturava traíra com pescada." Aqui não misturamos, senhor. "Ah, não vai ser tão bom quanto o dela..." Tenho certeza que não, senhor, mas se quiser experimentar, vamos ficar contentes.Uma mulher examina os potes na estante. Está no final da gravidez, seus joelhos um pouco arriados por causa do peso da barriga. "O que vocês fazem aqui?" Comida judaica polonesa. "Sério? É a comida da minha avó. Você tem kneidalach (bolinha de pão ázimo servida com caldo de galinha)?" Tem. "Tem caldo?" Tem. Um quase choro. Não dá pra saber se é de alívio, saudades, reconhecimento. "A minha avó já morreu, faz tanto tempo que não como a comida dela."E aí, Bid, sua mãe gostou dos gefilte fish? "Mama curtiu os varenikes e o chrein, achou o gefilte pouco temperado comparado com os que crescemos comendo das avós." Pode ser também como a Flávia, que pergunta se fazemos Kugel. Mas o pai dela, ao telefone, rapidamente diz: "Mas nem adianta tentar, não vai ficar tão bom como o da sua avó".Abri uma torneira de memórias, não uma delicatessen. Cada um que vem, além de afirmar categoricamente que aquela não é a comida da sua mãe, prontamente passa a receita de como o patê de fígado era feito em sua casa.Comecei com a comida feita pela minha avó —com a certeza de que ela era mais ou menos universal em nossa singularidade. Que ingenuidade! Não, essa é só uma. Tem as das avós do Moisés, da Dona Nina, do Bid, da grávida e da Flávia. Essas avós falam por meio da memória e da comida. Contam de tempos antigos, costumes velhos e de onde viemos. Contam histórias de lugares longes e estranhos, que, para seus netos em terras novas, têm gosto de lar.Podia ser a comida de avós africanas, podia ser a comida de avós chinesas, podia ser a comida de avós índias. Mas é um lugar de avós, mães e comida judias.*sefa - sefaradita, judeus do Oriente Médio e MediterrâneoClarice Reichstul Cozinheira e proprietária da Paca Polaca | comida |
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] | A unidade dos Jardins do restaurante Ici Brasserie (r. Bela Cintra, 2.203) incluiu, na última semana, três pratos de inverno no menu.Entre eles, está a sopa de cebola gratinada com queijo gruyère e servida com pão (R$ 29), clássico francês.Outras opções são a tagine de cordeiro, servida com cuscuz marroquino e coalhada seca (R$ 61).Por fim, há o Tutano à la Brasserie, cortado na horizontal e assado, servido com salada de salsinha, cebola caramelizada, purê de alho confit e torrada (R$ 25). As receitas serão servidas até o fim da estação. | comida |
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] | Desde 1985, quando a Prefeitura de São Paulo cravou o 10 de julho como dia oficial da pizza, a cena se repete: muitas promoções e pizzarias lotadas.Mas também é fato que há cada vez mais paulistanos fugindo da fila e assando pizza em casa —no empório Eataly (eataly.com.br), em três anos, 491 alunos se matricularam nas seis modalidades de cursos relacionados ao tema.Na escola WK Cozinha, em Pinheiros, pizzas fazem parte da grade desde 1990. As primeiras aulas foram ministradas por Hamilton Mellão Jr., fundador da pizzaria I Vitelloni. Hoje, estão a cargo de Erik Momo, 47, sócio da rede 1900, com oito unidades na cidade.No último dia 16 de junho, pela primeira vez, o curso aconteceu fora da escola —foi realizado na 1900 de Perdizes."Cada vez mais gente tem forno a lenha em casa, o que nos fez complementar o conteúdo. Na pizzaria, o Erik pode dar dicas de como assar a pizza no forno doméstico e mostrar, ao vivo, como manejar o forno a lenha", diz Betty Kövesi, proprietária da escola.Momo é um craque no assunto. Formado pela Scuola Italiana Pizzaioli, em Caorle, na Itália, e profundo conhecedor de farinhas de trigo, ele abre suas aulas avisando que nem tudo é farinha do mesmo saco."A maior parte dos produtos brasileiros é destinada à fabricação de pão, que pede outro tipo de farinha", explica.Na aula esta reportagem, elaborada com exclusividade para a Folha, Momo ensina como escolher os ingredientes, preparar a massa e dominar o forno.E nem é preciso ter um modelo aquecido a lenha —com um pouquinho de técnica, garante o especialista, dá para assar uma pizza no capricho até mesmo no fogão doméstico. A seguir, o que você precisa saber sobre os principais elementos da pizza. FarinhaA variedade para pizza tem maior quantidade de proteínas que compõem o glúten, garantia de massa mais elástica. As marcas italianas trazem a indicação na embalagem. Elas podem ser encontradas em empórios e no site farinhasitalianas.com.br."Entre as nacionais disponíveis nos mercados, recomendo a Anaconda e a Renata, ambas do tipo 1", diz Erik Momo.FermentoPara iniciantes, o pizzaiolo aconselha o biológico --ele usa a versão fresca, mas o seco (em pó) também serve. Mais melindrosas, as pizzas de fermentação natural devem ser reservadas para aprendizes em estágio avançado.MolhoNão é preciso cozinhar os tomates --basta processar os frutos frescos sem pele nem sementes (ou os tomates pelados em lata) e temperá-los com sal, azeite e orégano a gosto.FornoNo fogão doméstico, a temperatura não chega nem perto dos 400ºC do forno a lenha. Portanto, acenda o forno alto com bastante antecedência, no mínimo 1 hora antes.FôrmaTroque o modelo de alumínio por uma pedra própria para assar pizza, à venda em lojas de utensílios de cozinha. Ela deve ser preaquecida junto com o forno, com 1 hora de antecedência.(para 4 pizzas individuais)400 g de farinha de trigo própria para pizza240 g de água filtrada ou mineral2 colheres (sobremesa) de azeite 1 colher (café) de fermento biológico fresco250 g de tomate fresco (débora ou italiano)600 g de mozarela raladaorégano a gostofolhas de manjericão fresco a gosto Eataly Av. Presidente Juscelino Kubitschek, 1489, Itaim Bibi, tel. (11) 3279-3300; www.eataly.com.br O próximo curso, Mão na massa/fermentação natural, com o chef Ricardo Marino, da Paninoteca, acontece no dia 7/7, às 16h (R$ 160). WK Cozinha R. Cristiano Viana, 224, Pinheiros, tel. (11) 3063 1592; wkcozinha.com.br | comida |
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] | É fim de tarde na Lapa, zona boêmia do Rio antigo. As ruas meio decrépitas pululam de gente: trabalhadores em fim de expediente, com sede de cerveja. É assim na Lapa faz tempo. O Bar Brasil, na avenida Mem de Sá, funciona desde 1907. Ao lado, o Nova Capela é ainda mais antigo —abriu em 1903.No ano da inauguração do Bar Brasil, foi feita a primeira viagem de carro entre São Paulo e o Rio. Demorou 26 dias. Ambos os botequins testemunharam a morte de Machado de Assis, a Revolta da Chibata, as duas Guerras Mundiais, a transferência da capital para Brasília, duas Copas e uma Olimpíada. Receberam políticos, diplomatas, artistas e a nata dos bêbados cariocas. Mas o povo na Lapa não quer saber de história na happy hour. Quer cerveja barata e música alta. Amontoa-se ao redor de garrafas grandes —o popular litrão— em bares novos e sem alma. A poucos passos da sede da temida Vigilância Sanitária, jovens se refestelam com salgadinhos feitos em plena calçada num tacho de óleo escuro e malcheiroso.No Bar Brasil, o alemão mais tradicional do Rio, só a mesa deste repórter está ocupada —os próximos clientes só chegariam 75 minutos mais tarde. No Nova Capela, é preciso interromper o jantar dos funcionários para ser atendido.Parte dos botequins históricos do Rio está em apuros. A crise econômica e a sensação de insegurança ajudaram a espantar turistas. Clientes cariocas optam por ficar em casa.A avaria atingiu todo o setor de bares e restaurantes, mas casas como o Bar Brasil e o Nova Capela têm uma fraqueza adicional: um modelo de gestão parado no tempo.A queda na receita se percebe na qualidade do produto e do serviço. A decadência afasta ainda mais os clientes, e a féria despenca em espiral.Mobília em petição de miséria, toalhas de mesa puídas e desleixo com a higiene são percebidos no Cosmopolita, de 1926, que se gaba da criação do filé à Oswaldo Aranha (coberto de alho frito).O Bar Luiz, que resiste há 131 anos no centro, pede socorro para não desaparecer: a rua da Carioca hoje é um cemitério de imóveis desocupados."Aguento até o final do ano", afirma Francisco Almussara, 84, o seu Chico do Capela. "Depois disso, não sei", completa laconicamente o espanhol de Santiago de Compostela.A crise econômica e de segurança teve forte impacto no setor de alimentação no Rio. "A queda no número de frequentadores chega a 40%", estima Fernando Blower, presidente do SindRio (Sindicato de Bares e Restaurantes) da cidade.A comparação se refere aos tempos em que o petróleo era a salvação e o então governador fluminense, Sérgio Cabral, tinha fama de grande gestor. O setor fechou cerca de 5% dos postos de trabalho desde 2015.A recessão pegou com intensidade no subúrbio e no centro. A escassez de residentes fixos e de atividade aos fins de semana deixa mais agudas as agruras da cidade velha.Mas a zona sul também sofre com debandada da freguesia com medo e sem dinheiro. As pessoas saem menos e, quando saem, voltam mais cedo para casa."Eu precisava expulsar os clientes para fechar o bar à meia-noite", conta Kadu Thomé, 35, do Bracarense, instalado há 57 anos no Leblon. "Às 22h, já não tem mais ninguém, é só baixar a porta."Este é um botequim histórico que atravessa a turbulência com relativa tranquilidade. Terceira geração de um clã de comerciantes portugueses, Kadu modernizou o local e tem disposição para trabalhar duro atrás do balcão —ânimo que falta, compreensivelmente, aos octogenários."Botequins tradicionais são casas formatadas para outro tempo", diz o sindicalista Blower, que serve coquetéis criativos e petiscos moderninhos no Meza, em Botafogo.A passagem do bastão para a nova geração é crítica nesses estabelecimentos: quase nunca há alguém disposto a assumir a bronca. Que o diga Juan Tuña Souto, 80, outro galego de Santiago de Compostela.Na tentativa de atrair os jovens da Lapa para o Cosmopolita, pendurou banners anunciando cervejas em promoção. Perguntado sobre quem iria herdar o botequim, seu Juan abaixa e balança a cabeça: "Tenho dois filhos, mas não sei se vão querer". Sua voz é suave, quase inaudível. A boêmia das antigas sofre em silêncio.Que a crise e a criminalidade contribuíram para o declínio dos botequins históricos, todos concordam. Mas o consenso termina aí. Comerciantes apontam à Folha razões diferentes para a situação.Para Rosana Santos, dona do Bar Luiz, a especulação imobiliária degradou o ponto. A rua da Carioca, antigo corredor comercial do centro, tornou-se um mostruário de placas de "aluga-se".E lista outros diversos fatores: a lei antitabagismo, a lei seca, obras do VLT, ambulantes e a proibição do estacionamento na rua aos sábados.O Luiz, que tinha 48 funcionários em 2008, agora trabalha com 12. Rosana se diz otimista com apelos feitos na imprensa carioca. "Os clientes fiéis começaram a voltar."A revoada é minimizada por Juan Souto, do Cosmopolita. "Temos clientes, mas está muito difícil por causa da alta nos preços." A carestia, diz, impede investimentos em manutenção e modernização.Gustavo Riveiro, 39, do Bar Brasil, diz que a casa está no azul. "A frequência caiu 40% nos últimos dois anos, mas estamos nos segurando." O chope pilsen, grande chamariz do botequim na época de vacas gordas, teria perdido prestígio."Vamos começar a trabalhar também com cervejas em garrafa. Já temos algumas artesanais e vamos servir ainda a lager puro malte. O pessoal quer cerveja sem milho."Cosmopolita Fundado em 1926 aos pés dos arcos da Lapa, reclama a paternidade de um prato clássico carioca: o filé à Oswaldo Aranha, com alho frito, arroz, farofa e fritas, em homenagem ao diplomata, que frequentava o local. Travessa do Mosqueira, 4, Lapa Bar Luiz Referência em chope e comida alemã. Nasceu em 1887 e mudou-se para a rua da Carioca em 1927. Na época da 2ª Guerra, chamava-se Bar Adolph —referência a um ex-dono. Pensando tratar-se de propaganda nazista, um grupo de estudantes tentou depredá-lo. Foram dissuadidos pelo compositor Ary Barroso, que ocupava uma mesa. Rua da Carioca, 39, Centro Nova Capela Costumava ser o último bar a fechar as portas na Lapa. O que atraía figuras como Madame Satã e o cartunista Jaguar era a comida portuguesa farta e honesta servida madrugada adentro neste botequim de 1903. O cordeiro —consta como cabrito no cardápio— é o prato de resistência do lugar. Av. Mem de Sá, 98, LapaBar Brasil Aberto em 1907, tinha até pouco tempo a reputação de servir o melhor chope do Rio, tirado de uma antiga máquina de bronze. Como a freguesia rareou, a bebida já não sai tão fresca do barril —a casa passou a trabalhar também com cervejas em garrafa. Av. Mem de Sá, 90, Lapa | comida |
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0.3052741289138794,
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] | Receita da cozinheira Cafira Foz, do restaurante Fitó Cozinha, em São PauloPrimeiro passo:Coloque todos os grãos da receita para cozinhar enquanto inicia o preparo da paçocaIngredientes da paçoca:2 colheres (sopa) de colorau150 g de carne-de-sol curada em bife½ xícara de farinha de mandioca1 e ½ colheres (sopa) de cebola roxa picada em tirinhas½ xícara de manteiga de garrafaPreparo da paçoca:Frite a carne de sol com metade da manteiga de garrafa até dourar dos dois lados, depois desfie no processador. Refogue a cebola no restante da manteiga de garrafa até murchar. Junte a carne triturada e refogue por três minutos. Adicione o colorau e refogue por mais um minuto. Junte a farinha, misture bem e desligue o fogoIngredientes do tartar de banana:1 banana-da-terra1 tomate maduro1 colher de cebolinha picada1 colher (sopa) de suco de limão1 colher (chá) de azeitePreparo:Pique o tomate e a banana em cubos. Depois junte o azeite, a cebolinha e o limão. Misture tudoIngredientes do baião de dois:½ xícara de arroz cozido1 xícara de feijão-de-corda cozido sem o caldo1 colher (sopa) de coentro picado1 xícara de caldo de legumes½ xícara de queijo de coalho em cubos2 colheres (sopa) de manteiga de garrafaSal a gostoPreparo:Aqueça uma frigideira. Adicione o caldo de legumes, o arroz, o feijão e a manteiga. Refogue por aproximadamente um minuto. Acrescente o queijo e o coentro. Misture bem.Ingredientes do queijo de coalho:2 tiras de queijo de coalho (com 8 cm de comprimento por 3 cm de largura; uma para cada prato)Preparo:Aqueça a frigideira. Coloque as fatias do queijo e deixe dourar por 30 segundos. Vire e deixe dourar por mais 20 segundos.Montagem do prato:Coloque cinco colheres (sopa) do baião de dois, quatro colheres (sopa) da paçoca, duas colheres (sopa) do tartar e, para finalizar, coloque uma fatia de queijo de coalho grelhado | comida |
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] | Comer comida é essencial pra ser feliz e ter saúde. Ninguém se senta à mesa e compartilha pílulas de vitamina, que sozinhas não dão conta da nutrição.Respeito as opções alimentares conscientes, sem loucuras e modismos. Minhas filhas só diziam "não gosto" quando experimentavam. Não gosto de ouriço e gema mole, acontece.Respeito vegetarianos e veganos por ideologia e que levam a nutrição a sério (só não entendo a questão vegana com o mel, não acho que as abelhas sejam roubadas, elas produzem demais, coletar a sobra é natural). E compreendo bem as dificuldades e restrições sofridas por intolerantes à lactose e ao glúten, desde que haja diagnóstico. Irritante é conviver com o "não como isso ou aquilo" por moda, gente sem noção de nada, que faz tudo errado, ignora fontes de proteínas, vitaminas e minerais. Uns resolvem não comer nada e ficam até acinzentados de tanta anemia.Levo vegetarianos tão a sério que em livros e no site há várias receitas com vegetais. No Lá da Venda, há pratos vegetarianos e agora um vegano. No balcão, há uma lista de delícias sem glúten, sem lactose e veganas (pamonha, bolos, pão de queijo). Pelos celíacos, que sofrem com contaminação cruzada do glúten, asso pão de queijo num forno só dele.Só que, como "dona de venda", ouço absurdos. Um senhor me diz "ouvi dizer que é descolado ser vegano" e pergunta se "pode pão de queijo", digo "sabe, veganos não comem nada de origem animal, o queijo vem do leite da vaca e o ovo da galinha" e ele "que pena, quero um bolo", falo que todos têm ovo, aí ofereço os sucos, e ele "suco natural não dá, prefiro coca zero".Uma sorridente diz "tô feliz demais, decidi virar celíaca", arregalo os olhos e pergunto sobre o diagnóstico. "Nada de doente, só não vou comer trigo porque engorda, pizzas de queijo são minha perdição." Loucura...O intolerante à lactose vive bem, toma enzima para consumir laticínios comuns e tem mil possibilidades sem lactose (fiz muito doce de leite para uma filha intolerante há anos). Não pode cortar tudo. Pesquisas mostram aumento de mulheres jovens com osteopenia, que evolui para osteoporose, muitas veganas, intolerantes à lactose ou que não consomem "porque não", achando que cálcio e vitamina D resolvem.O glúten é o culpado por quase todo desconforto digestivo. A pessoa vê um caso na internet e o corta, sem cogitar que o problema possa ser outro, e passa a viver com pouco ferro, vitaminas, fibras e anemia. Celíacos sofrem muitas restrições, o glúten vai além do trio trigo/centeio/cevada e derivados, não podem correr risco da contaminação cruzada. Muita coisa tem glúten, e os produtos ainda não são muito bons.Bom senso, por favor! Passa mal quem vive de dietas malucas ou só come isso ou aquilo. O que faz diferença são ingredientes bons, frescos e da estação, feitos de forma séria, artesanal e sustentável por pequenos, médios e grandes produtores, que já estão mudando, tudo sem venenos e outros artificiais prejudiciais à saúde.Heloisa Bacellar Chef, dona do Lá da Venda e autora do site e canal Na Cozinha da Helô, no YouTube | comida |
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] | Lis Cereja, nutricionista, chef de cozinha e criadora da Enoteca Saint VinSaint1. Alho “Gostoso, versátil, faz bem para a saúde e deixa qualquer prato mais saboroso”2. Ervas “Sempre tenho ervas frescas para finalizar os pratos, pois trazem cheirinhos e frescor para qualquer receita”3. Pimenta “ Sou pimenteira desde criancinha. Fresca, lactofermentada, na salada...”4. Limão “Prefiro usar limão do que vinagre nas preparações” | comida |
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] | A baiana Terezinha dos Santos Matos tem destino certo para os mais de 80 tipos de verduras e legumes de sua horta Sabor da Vitória, em São Mateus, na zona leste de São Paulo.As feiras orgânicas do Tatuapé e de Itaquera são alguns deles, além do empório Grão em Grão, na Vila Romana. Do outro lado da cidade, na Casa Verde, a turismóloga Maria Rita Cavaliere vende frutas, ervas e temperos da É Hora da Horta em eventos e festivais.Terezinha e Maria Rita fazem parte de um grupo crescente de agricultores urbanos que comercializa sua produção em empórios, feiras livres e mercados da capital.Diferentemente das hortas urbanas comunitárias, feitas em praças e terrenos baldios e compartilhadas pelos moradores, as hortas urbanas comerciais, concentradas na periferia da cidade, geram emprego e renda aos produtores.Se, no início, a venda desses hortifrútis restringia-se aos moradores próximos às hortas, a ideia dos apoiadores desse modelo de agricultura é ampliar os espaços de comercialização. Mais "Além de oferecer garantia de mercado e mais autonomia de produção para o agricultor, colaboramos para uma cidade mais produtora, que não precisa depender de produtos que vêm de longe", diz a psicóloga Regiane Nigro, especialista em economia solidária pelo Instituto Kairós e voluntária da Associação de Agricultores da Zona Leste (AAZL), da qual Terezinha faz parte.A associação, criada há dez anos, reúne 30 agricultores (orgânicos ou em processo de conseguir essa certificação) em 15 hortas espalhadas pelos distritos de São Mateus, Guaianazes, São Miguel Paulista e Cidade Tiradentes.Entre os desafios dos produtores urbanos estão a falta de assistência técnica e a logística de comercialização dos produtos agroecológicos. O administrador e técnico em pecuária Hans Dieter Temp, fundador organização da Cidades Sem Fome, estuda soluções.A ONG, que promove a agricultura sustentável e orgânica, acaba de fechar um convênio com a Eletropaulo, que disponibilizou, por comodato, cinco áreas contínuas em São Mateus. Um total de 40 mil m² para a criação de novas hortas urbanas. "São Mateus será uma referência mundial em agricultura urbana", diz Hans.A partir de setembro, coloca em prática uma estratégia de comercialização dos produtos. Em parceria com a Só Plantar —plataforma de tecnologia especializada na venda de produtos de agricultura urbana—, a ONG vai lançar um aplicativo de entrega de cestas. As hortas informam a quantidade e a variedade de hortaliças disponíveis, e a plataforma conecta os usuários que querem comprá-los.O aplicativo vai disponibilizar, ainda, a entrega das cestas num raio de 5 km por meio de bicicletas da parceira EcoBike. No início, serão cinco hortas.A recente onda das pancs (plantas alimentícias não-convencionais) também abriu possibilidade de negócio para os agricultores urbanos."As pancs estão batendo recordes de venda", comemora Terezinha. Na sua horta, de 6.000 m² num terreno da Eletropaulo, a agricultora investe na produção de ora-pro-nóbis, taioba e maxixe-do-reino. Utilizada originalmente como cerca viva, para espantar animais, a ora-pro-nóbis virou recheio da tapioca que Terezinha vende em feiras.A aposentada Sebastiana Helena de Farias também investe em pancs em sua horta, em São Mateus. Beldroega, bredo e mastruz estão entre as variedades que oferece aos mais de 80 clientes, que compram no local. "As pessoas estão lembrando das suas raízes."Já Maria Rita, que há quatro anos vive do que planta em 1.200 m², aposta na chaya, no hibisco e na bertalha. "São muito saudáveis e fáceis de cultivar", garante ela, que cultiva mais de 20 variedades de não-convencionais.O movimento da agricultura urbana ganhou força em São Paulo a partir de 2010. A zona leste é a região de maior concentração dessas hortas, e uma das mais antigas. Lá, agricultores dão vida a terrenos desocupados, inutilizados ou de linhão (áreas de transmissão de energia).Há diversas vantagens na agricultura urbana, como geração de emprego e renda, ampliação de áreas verdes, uso sustentável da água e o aproveitamento de espaços públicos.No âmbito social, hortas encurtam a cadeia entre produtor e consumidor, produzem comida saudável, estimulam a diversidade de alimentos e fornecem ingredientes frescos aos que moram na periferia, onde o acesso a eles, pelo menos em São Paulo, é mais difícil. Mas a compra "na porta da horta" conta ainda com a vantagem do preço mais baixo.- Empório Grão em Grão Praça Alfredo Weizflog, 34, Vila Romana, tel. 3863-2098 - Instituto Feira Livre Rua Major Sertório, 229, Vila Buarque, tel. 3237-0721 - Feira Livre de Itaquera Rua Ken Sugaya, s/nº, Itaquera; aos domingos - Instituto Chão Rua Harmonia, 123, Vila Madalena, tel. 3530-0907 | comida |
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] | Anissa Helou nunca tinha pensado em escrever um livro de culinária, até o dia em que foi convidada para um jantar em Londres com um grupo de pessoas, que, como ela, nasceram no Líbano e viviam longe de casa. Um dos assuntos de conversa foi a escassez de livros de receitas libanesas.Isso aconteceu em 1992. Na época, Helou trabalhava como consultora de arte.Mas a conversa a afetou. Ela percebeu que toda uma geração de libaneses que haviam deixado a pátria por conta da guerra civil que durou de 1975 a 1990 também havia perdido o acesso à comida de sua pátria.Helou tentou corrigiu o problema em seu primeiro livro de culinária, "Lebanese Cuisine", de 1994. Para sua surpresa, o livro entrou para o shortlist do prêmio André Simon, conferido aos melhores livros de culinária do Reino Unido."Eu era um zero à esquerda, na época", disse Helou. "Ninguém me conhecia."Helou, 66, deixou há muito tempo de ser um zero à esquerda —tornou-se chefe de cozinha, professora de culinária e autora de livros de receitas. Depois de "Lebanese Cuisine", escreveu mais oito.Seu nono livro de culinária, "Feast: Food of the Islamic World", saiu no final de maio pela editora Ecco. Com mais de 500 páginas, é um volume pesado. Nele, Helou traça o desenvolvimento da culinária muçulmana, do advento do Islã em 610 à ascensão da dinastia Mughal na Índia. As 300 receitas que o livro contém atravessam continentes, vindas das muitas regiões a que o islamismo se expandiu em todo o planeta, de Xinjiang (na China) a Zanzibar.Os diferentes tratamentos dados a pratos enganosamente semelhantes revelam a amplitude da vida alimentar da África do Norte, do Oriente Médio e de tantas outras regiões. No Marrocos, ela escreve, o pudim de arroz tipicamente tem o leite como base, e é temperado com água de flor de laranjeira. O pudim de arroz turco, no entanto, não usa leite, e o tempero é de açafrão."Nos dez últimos anos, houve uma explosão de comida do Oriente Médio no Reino Unido", disse Claudia Roden, autoridade britânica nas culinárias da região. Isso resultou, segundo ela, da ampla disponibilidade de livros de receitas para os pratos da área. O que distingue Helou de seus contemporâneos é a curiosidade e a precisão histórica.Tradução de Paulo MigliacciFeast - Food of the Islamic WorldAnissa Halou. Ed. Ecco. US$ 43,62. 544 págs. | comida |
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] | “O levain é um bicho? Ele morre?”, perguntou certa vez uma leitora do blog de gastronomia do jornalista Luiz Américo Camargo. Ao se deparar com a mensagem, ele notou que poderia ajudar interessados a criarem os seus próprios fermentos. Começava entre os seguidores uma proliferação de colônias e colônias do tal bicho que habita pães. O conteúdo inspiraria o livro “Pão Nosso”, lançado em 2013 pela editora Panelinha.Ele, que começou a pesquisa “numa época sem Google nem YouTube”, defende que a escolha dos métodos (sova ou dobra) não seja restritiva, mas sim adequada à rotina de quem vai produzir o pão.Uma produção cada vez mais simples e prática deve nortear seu próximo livro, ainda sem previsão de lançamento. “Quero ajudar a demover gentilmente os argumentos que as pessoas apresentam para não fazer pão em casa.” Mais Antes de escrever um livro sobre pão, como era a relação do senhor com ele?Uma relação de apetite, paixão, curiosidade. De pesquisa, de tentativa e erro. Fazia pão por hobby e para relaxar do estresse do trabalho. Gosto de alimentar a família e presentear os amigos com ele.O que mudou depois que o pão foi parar na obra?O espírito não se alterou. Mudou a consciência de que a aprendizagem não tem fim. Quanto mais avança, mais percebe que há algo diferente.Diferente na forma de fazer pão?Existem escolhas, propostas, estilos. Se o fermento nasceu com essa fruta ou aquela, se o fermento é mais líquido ou sólido, se a modelagem é assim ou assado... Existem princípios mais estáveis, como respeitar a temperatura de trabalho da massa, assar em forno alto, considerar características objetivas da farinha. De resto, há muito da escolha.No livro, o sr. ensina a sovar o pão. Ainda usa esta técnica?Prefiro a técnica das dobras para massas um pouco mais hidratadas, acima dos 70%. Trata-se só de uma escolha, uma proposta. No “Pão Nosso” as receitas têm, em média, 66% de hidratação, com fermento igualmente mais sólido. A sova cabe bem para homogeneizar os ingredientes e formar a rede de glúten. Podemos usar os dois jeitos, não precisamos nos restringir a um. Ou até não sovar, caso dos pães muito hidratados, em que temos a água (e o tempo, longo) se responsabilizando totalmente pela formação do glúten.O papel do pão mudou? Teve fases. Ficou mais longe do público quando surgiram os produtos industrializados, virou coisa de alternativos. Agora, ocupa lugar muito mais cativo. Moda é paleta mexicana, hambúrguer de ramen... Pão é consistente, voltou para ficar. Logo, o glúten será absolvido no tribunal do gosto, como foram bacon, ovos, café..., e os filões caseiros vão se espraiar ainda mais pelas casas.Agora que pão virou trabalho, o sr. ainda produz em casa para tirar o estresse... do trabalho? Sim. Quando estou em teste de receitas, quase todo dia. E ainda me encanto vendo um pão crescendo no forno e me espanto ao abrir a panela. Essas emoções que permanecem. | comida |
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] | São 2.642 páginas distribuídas em cinco volumes vendidos a quase R$ 2 mil. Parece coisa demais para falar sobre pão, certo? Errado, segundo o principal autor de “Modernist Bread”, Nathan Myhrvold. O americano de 58 anos, que entrou na faculdade aos 14, é matemático, físico espacial, ex-colega de Bill Gates na Microsoft e trabalhou com Stephen Hawking.Em 2011, fundou o Cooking Lab, no qual cientistas, chefs e escritores, entre outros fazem pesquisa gastronômica. Como quase tudo relacionado a Myhrvold, a entrevista também foi inusitada. Ele estava em São Paulo visitando pizzarias para uma nova coleção, sem previsão de lançamento. E falou à Folha enquanto devorava opções da Bráz Elettrica, em Pinheiros. Mais O sr. é matemático, físico e autor de livros de cozinha. Como explica a sua carreira? Olha, ela faz todo o sentido para mim [risos]. Sempre fui bem na escola. Quando tinha nove anos, decidi que faria um jantar de Ação de Graças. Peguei vários livros e fiz. Aos 23 anos estava formado em matemática, física e economia. Queria ser físico. Trabalhei com o Stephen Hawking. A família dele me chamou hoje para o enterro das cinzas [em Londres]. Mas estou aqui em São Paulo comendo pizza para a próxima coleção. E criei uma empresa de software com alguns amigos, vendi para a Microsoft e fui trabalhar como diretor técnico com Bill Gates. Mas saí para estudar cozinha na França. Por que o gosto pela cozinha se tornou livro?A ciência faz você cozinhar melhor. Tentei encontrar um livro que unisse bem as duas coisas. Não encontrei e resolvi escrevê-lo.E por que o pão? Nos Estados Unidos começou a surgir essa onda do pão artesanal. Foi bom. O que não foi bom foi terem abandonado a ciência na arte de fazer pão. Você tem um laboratório em casa e outro para trabalhar, onde fez as pesquisas para a coleção. O que descobriu de mais interessante? Uma das coisas é que sovar a massa é, basicamente, uma fraude. A maioria dos livros diz que você precisa sovar. Mas não, você não precisa. A sova acelera o processo de formação de glúten. Mas não é fundamental. O que fazer com a massa, então? Nos nossos testes, constatamos que o glúten se desenvolve por causa da reação química da água com a farinha. O grão é uma semente. Se você coloca água nela, ela acorda, germina. É essa reação química que desenvolve o glúten. Com bastante tempo, dá para fazer um ótimo pão só misturando tudo no início. Como foi o processo de pesquisa para o livro no laboratório? Durou três anos. Foram 1.500 experimentos e 40 toneladas de farinha. Qual foi o melhor pão que comeu durante as pesquisas em campo? Baguetes em Paris! Por que “modernist”? Não seria molecular porque tudo é feito de moléculas. Para o cientista Hervé This, esse termo só deveria se aplicar no estudo da ciência na comida, não para descrever uma forma de cozinhar. Pensamos no termo “modernista” porque não se refere exatamente a algo novo, mas a um movimento que se dispõe moderno.Qual o papel do pão hoje? Você pode comprar pão no mercado. Tem mais vaga para parar o carro e é mais barato do que numa padaria artesanal. Num restaurante, acham um absurdo cobrar pelo pão. Deve-se a uma conexão emocional com o passado, que faz com que ele seja visto como algo essencial, e não algo pelo que se pague. Podemos comer pães muito melhores se toparmos pagar por eles.Pão Nosso Autor: Luiz Américo Camargo Editora: Panelinha Quanto: R$ 92 (180 págs.)Modernist Bread Autores: Nathan Myhrvold e Francisco Migoya Editora: The Cooking Lab Quanto: R$ 1.841 (2.642 págs.)Tartine Bread Autor: Chad Robertson Editora: Chronicle Books Quanto: R$ 117 (306 págs.)Pães – Deliciosos, simples e contemporâneos Autor: Richard Bertinet Editora: Marco Zero Quanto: R$ 75 (158 págs.)Seis mil anos de pão – A civilização humana através do seu principal alimento Autor: Heinrich Eduard Jacob Editora: Nova Alexandria Quanto: R$ 97 (592 págs.)Cozinhar – Uma História Natural da Transformação Autor: Michael Pollan Editora: Instrinseca Quanto: R$ 49 (448 págs.)Do Grão ao Pão - Farinha de trigo: história da moagem no Brasil Autor: Xavier Bartaburu Editora: Origem Quanto: R$ 50 (198 págs.) | comida |
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] | Durante anos como padeiro aprendiz, o texano radicado na Califórnia Chad Robertson buscava um “pão com alma antiga”. Um pão elementar, base do sustento de gerações, mas que, ao mesmo tempo, ecoasse as mãos do padeiro que o forjou. A primeira vez que chegou perto de encontrá-lo foi ao provar uma fornada que um de seus mentores na França, Daniel Colin, havia preparado para o pai. Era um filão de respeito, com casca escura e grandes buracos no miolo. “Esse é o pão que eu sempre faria para mim”, disse o padeiro francês ao notar o interesse do pupilo. “Mas os clientes nunca o comprariam”. Robertson levou algum tempo, mas provou que aquilo não era bem verdade. Desde 2002, ele vem fazendo fama em San Francisco com seu pão de alma antiga, que reflete não apenas as mãos, como também a rotina do padeiro.Quando começou, trabalhando sozinho e sem maquinário, Robertson percebeu que uma massa com alta hidratação era mais fácil de se manusear em grandes quantidades. Também notou que a segunda fermentação, que ocorria por algumas horas no ambiente calorento das padarias, podia ser mais longa, contanto que a temperatura ambiente estivesse mais baixa. Abriu as janelas da cozinha, e deixou os pães crescendo da noite para o dia. Resultado: pão fresco para o jantar, torradas no café da manhã, e noites inteiras de sono para o padeiro.Por fim, Robertson descobriu que poderia substituir a sova, trabalho braçal extenuante e enfadonho que ajuda a organizar cadeias de glúten —torna a massa mais elástica— e facilita o aprisionamento do gás carbônico que resultará nos alvéolos (buracos) do pão. Ele propôs dobras periódicas da massa no curso da primeira fermentação. A descoberta economizaria tempo, suor, sabão para limpar a cozinha, e tornaria mais fácil a vida de padeiros pelo mundo afora —Robertson tem padarias em San Francisco, Los Angeles e Seul.Esses processos são detalhados pelo padeiro no belo livro “Tartine Bread” (sem edição no país), que visa ensinar padeiros amadores a obter seus pães com alma antiga. A receita do country bread (pão de campanha, numa livre tradução), é deliciosamente esmiuçada, além de revista e adaptada por padeiros amadores e profissionais. Uma versão dela, testada e aprovada, pode ser conferida na página 4 desta edição. HISTÓRIA DO ALIMENTO Bom pão leva tempo e paciência, ensina a parede riscada a giz de uma padaria de SP. É preciso esperar a ação de leveduras que liberam açúcares, depois transformados em ácidos, álcool e gases, que fazem crescer a massa.Egípcios entenderiam a mensagem 6.000 anos atrás, ao dominar a fermentação. Antes, havia um pão achatado, duro e seco.Foi levado à Europa por comerciantes gregos, por volta de 250 a.C., e virou o principal alimento da Roma Antiga. Com o fim do império e das padarias, a produção caseira se disseminou.O hábito se manteve tão forte que, na Segunda Guerra, tropas italianas contavam com uma padaria móvel. No Brasil, só se popularizou depois do século 19. | comida |
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] | Praias paradisíacas de areia branca, sol, coqueiros, gente festeira... a semelhança entre Brasil e Costa Rica, que jogam nesta sexta-feira (22) às 9h pela Copa do Mundo, não se limita à paisagem de pôster de agência de turismo.Ambos os países têm o arroz com feijão como prato nacional. Na Costa Rica, ele recebe o nome de gallo pinto.Esqueça a cumbuca de feijão caldoso ao lado da travessa de arroz: no gallo pinto, eles se misturam já na panela. Nada de causar espanto. É como o baião de dois nordestino, só que feito com feijão preto.Curiosa, para nós brasileiros, é a ocasião favorita dos costarriquenhos para atacar um pratão de arroz com feijão.“É meio estranho porque a galera come no café da manhã”, conta o designer gráfico Rodrigo Corradini Lemes, que viajou duas vezes à Costa Rica para surfar. “Todos os restaurantes servem o gallo pinto desde cedinho.”Pode parecer meio brutal, mas o ser humano é capaz de se adaptar a coisas bem piores. “É bom, eu curti”, afirma Rodrigo, que já está com passagem comprada para voltar ao país em setembro.A paternidade do gallo pinto é disputada entre a Costa Rica e a vizinha Nicarágua. Com pequenas mudanças aqui e ali, o prato é servido em todos os países da América Central e do Caribe —da Colômbia a Porto Rico.Em Cuba, ele se denomina congrí ou moros y cristianos (“mouros e cristãos”, ganha um doce o leitor que adivinhar quem é quem); em El Salvador e Honduras, conhecem-no por casamiento; na Guatemala, casado; na Jamaica e em quase todo o Caribe (mesmo nos países que não falam inglês), chamam-no de rice and beans.A combinação desses ingredientes extrapola as paragens tropicais das Américas. Na Europa, é um ensopado muito popular no inverno —riso e fagioli na Itália, arroz con judías na Espanha. Na África ocidental, acompanha carnes salgadas ou defumadas de porco, boi ou peixe. Chama-se thiébou niébé no Senegal.A receita mais esquisitona (para o paladar brasileiro, que fique claro) vem do Japão. O daifuku é um doce montado com moti (massa de arroz) e anko (feijão azuki). Mas voltemos à América Latina.O gallo pinto é normalmente preparado com sobras de arroz e de feijão já cozidos. O tempero básico inclui alho e cebola refogados, e cada um pode improvisar a gosto com pimentão, pimenta-malagueta, tomate, coentro, salsinha.De acompanhamento, ovos fritos ou mexidos, banana-da-terra, abacate, pão de trigo ou de milho, queijo e até mortadela. Com uma xícara de café, pois o dia está só começando.O preparo do prato costarriquenho é muito simples, mas saiba: é quase impossível cozinhá-lo da forma tradicional aqui no Brasil. A razão é um condimento industrializado chamado Salsa Lizano, que não é importado por comerciantes brasileiros. Há quem diga que o molho inglês dá para o gasto na receita.A fotógrafa e blogueira americana Amanda Biddle discorda. “O molho inglês não tem o aroma defumado da Salsa Lizano”, escreve no site “Striped Spatula” (stripedspatula.com). “Para compensar, acrescento um pouco de cominho à receita.”Outros dizem ainda que você precisará viajar para a Costa Rica se quiser provar o gallo pinto autêntico. Leve roupa de banho e filtro solar.Arroz com feijãoArroz AgulhinhaFeijão Preto ou carioquinhaApresentação SeparadosTemperos Alho e cebola. O feijão pode levar louro, bacon e/ou linguiçaRefeição Almoço Acompanhamentos O que houver para o almoçoVariação regional Baião-de-dois: arroz misturado com feijão-de-corda ou fradinho, queijo coalho, carne-seca e coentro. Comum no Norte e no Nordeste Gallo pinto Arroz AgulhinhaFeijão Preto ou vermelhoApresentação Misturados Temperos Alho, cebola, pimentão, coentro e Salsa LizanoRefeição Café da manhãAcompanhamentos Ovos, abacate, banana-da-terra, queijo, mortadela, caféVariação regional Rice and beans: na costa caribenha, o gallo pinto é cozido com leite de coco, temperado com pimenta ardida e pedido em inglês | comida |
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] | Fui convidada pelo Pará para conhecer a famosa rota gastronômica que passa por Belém, Marajó, Santarém e Bragança, e fiquei simplesmente maravilhada. Descobri delícias em cada um desses lugares.A gastronomia ali tem raízes na cultura indígena com perceptível influência portuguesa e africana. De características regionalíssimas e ingredientes oriundos da natureza da Amazônia, como camarão, caranguejo, marisco, peixe, caças, pato, castanhas, ervas, chicória, coentro, e farinhas retiradas da mandioca, a culinária paraense é considerada a mais autêntica do Brasil. E não é para menos.No mercado Ver-o-Peso, me deparei com a riqueza da Amazônia, cheiros, texturas e sabores e tive o privilégio de conhecer as boieiras, famosas cozinheiras natas que fazem refeições típicas como mariscada de caranguejo, peixe frito com açaí e caldeiradas.De barco, fui parar na produção ribeirinha de ostras nativas da região da rota Belém-Bragança, um dos maiores manguezais do mundo. No trajeto, conheci a melhor farinha do Brasil, do Seu Bené, fruto de um trabalho artesanal e extraordinário dele, filho de lavradora e mãe solteira. De tão saborosa e crocante, é conhecida como biscoito.Na ilha de Marajó, provei o queijo dos búfalos murra, produto genuinamente paraense, de sabor incomparável e onde cada um dos bichinhos é chamado por um nome. A manada é tão grande que dizem haver quatro búfalos para cada pessoa da ilha. Já no meio da floresta, pude conhecer a produção de bacuri e todas as facetas dessa fruta típica e deliciosa, que pode ser usada como acompanhamento de frango e leitão ou como geleia, licor, suco. Só dá uma vez por ano, nunca colhido, mas juntado, pois bacuri bom é o caído do pé.Como amante do Pará, arrumei um jeito de retribuir a experiência vivenciada, me tornando madrinha das boieiras. Neste mês, elas passam em São Paulo por uma vivência nos meus restaurantes e capacitação técnica de gastronomia com o instituto Capim Santo —um dos pilares é compartilhar conhecimento.A organização, nascida em 2010 em Trancoso, tem seis cozinhas, sendo uma itinerante. No PA, fizemos pesquisa de campo e mercado nas regiões da rota gastronômica, além da profissionalização de pessoas para o mercado de trabalho ligado à gastronomia. Neste ano, pude participar, ao lado do chef Ofir Oliveira e das boieiras, da elaboração do menu paraense do Festival Cozinha do Pará. Dessa relação que começou cinco anos atrás, com conhecimento que obtive sobre técnicas, produtos e cultura, passei de turista a guia turística.Morena Leite Chef do restaurante Capim Santo | comida |
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] | O italiano Osteria Francescana foi eleito, pela segunda vez, o melhor restaurante do mundo pelo 50 Best nesta terça-feira (19), em Bilbao (Espanha), onde aconteceu a cerimônia do prêmio.Não causou surpresa. Desde 2013 a casa, comandada pelo chef Massimo Bottura, em Modena, está entre os três melhores da lista promovida pela revista inglesa Restaurant (venceu em 2016). El Celler de Can Roca (Girona, Espanha), que ficou com o segundo lugar, há anos integra a tríade, ao lado do novaiorquino Eleven Madison Park, que saiu da primeira posição em 2017 para a quarta este ano. Não se espera que, de um ano para outro, o reflexo do gosto dos votantes mude radicalmente. Ao comemorar a liderança, Bottura lançou palavras de ordem, como união. “Vamos mostrar ao mundo que somos mais do que a soma de receitas, e que somos parte da mesma revolução.”União talvez seja o que o Brasil precisa. Em 2018, o país não melhorou sua visibilidade no ranking. O D.O.M. de Alex Atala, o único brasileiro na lista dos 50 melhores, vem descendo sistematicamente, e ficou com o 30º lugar. Independentemente da posição —que satisfaz a vaidade de qualquer cozinheiro, o que vale mais é a representatividade de uma cozinha, de um país.A união dos cozinheiros brasileiros, já verbalizada por Roberta Sudbrack em 2013, na celebração da primeira lista da América Latina, ainda não foi posta em prática como no México, com três premiados (Pujol, Quintonil e Cosme), e no Peru, entre os dez com o Central e o Maido, ambos de Lima.O prêmio acontece desde 2002, e reúne votos eletrônicos de mais de mil jurados (entre jornalistas, chefs, donos de restaurantes e “foodies”) pelo mundo (organizado pelo prêmio em 26 regiões). Nos últimos anos, tem sido alvo de polêmicas. Em 2015, houve abaixo-assinado contra patrocinadores do prêmio, sob alegação de influência nos resultados. Marketing pesado dos países, presentes a jornalistas, lobby de chefs e a fácil identificação dos jurados estão entre as reclamações dos cozinheiros e restaurateurs —em geral, não contemplados pelo prêmio ou mal colocados.A lista dos restaurantes entre 51º e 100º já foi revelada no último dia 12, com três restaurantes brasileiros: os paulistanos Maní (87º) e Casa do Porco (79º), e o carioca Lasai (100º).Por fim, o fraco desempenho brasileiro no ranking também passa pela falta de apoio do governo na promoção dos chefs e de suas criações no exterior. Afinal, mobilização em torno de um projeto —o da cozinha brasileira, rica e variada, e com chefs jovens e talentosos—, ajuda a atrair o público interessado em gastronomia. É hora de fazer esse movimento e tornar o país foco de atenção gastronômica.Cristiana Couto é jornalista de gastronomia e doutora em história da ciência pela PUC-SP | comida |
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] | O restaurante Osteria Francescana, em Modena, na Itália, foi apontado como o melhor do mundo pelo 50 Best, nesta terça-feira (19), em Bilbao, na Espanha.Pequena e discreta, a casa é comandada pelo chef italiano Massimo Bottura, que combina elementos tradicionais da gastronomia italiana a técnicas contemporâneas em suas receitas.O único brasileiro a aparecer na lista dos 50 melhores foi o D.O.M., de Alex Atala, em 30º lugar. A casa paulistana caiu 14 posições em relação ao ano passado. A mais alta colocação do restaurante, quarto lugar, foi registrada em 2012.Os premiados foram revelados no palácio Euskalduna, em Bilbao, no País Basco. Em 2017, a cerimônia ocorreu em Nova York.Outras premiações haviam sido divulgadas antes da cerimônia oficial: melhor chef mulher (para a britânica Clare Smyth, do restaurante Core by Clare Smyth, em Londres), restaurante promissor (para o SingleThread, na Califórnia) e de conjunto da obra para o peruano Gastón Acurio (Astrid y Gastón).Além disso, foram premiados também o chef americano Dan Barber (a escolha dos chefs) e o mestre-confeiteiro francês Cédric Grolet (melhor pâtissier do mundo).Parte da lista já havia sido revelada, com os vencedores de 51º a 100º, em 12/6, pela internet. Três restaurantes brasileiros apareceram no ranking: o estreante A Casa do Porco (79º), o paulistano Maní (87º) e o carioca Lasai (100º).Além da apresentação dos premiados de 2018, a cerimônia prestou homenagem a três grandes nomes da gastronomia mortos nos últimos meses: o americano Anthony Bourdain, o francês Paul Bocuse e o italiano Gualtiero Marchesi.Tido como o “Oscar da gastronomia”, o prêmio da revista britânica Restaurant é uma compilação anual de votos eletrônicos de jurados de todo o mundo, chefs, restaurateurs, críticos e "foodies". Conheça a lista completa dos 50 melhores restaurantes do mundoNo.1 Osteria Francescana (Itália) —primeiro colocado em 2016 No.2 El Celler de Can Roca (Espanha) No.3 Mirazur (França) No.4 Eleven Madison Park (EUA) —primeiro colocado em 2017 No.5 Gaggan (Tailândia) No.6 Central (Peru) No.7 Maido (Peru) No.8 Arpège (França) No.9 Mugaritz (Espanha) No.10 Asador Etxebarri (Espanha) No.11 Quintonil (México) No.12 Blue Hill at Stone Barn (EUA) No.13 Pujol (México) No.14 Steirereck (Áustria) No.15 White Rabbit (Rússia) No.16 Piazza Duomo (Itália) No.17 Den (Japão) —a maior subida na lista, estava em 45º, em 2017 No.18 Disfrutar (Espanha) —a melhor estreia do ano No.19 Geranium (Dinamarca) —também recebeu o prêmio de hospitalidade No.20 Attica (Austrália) No.21 Alain Ducasse au Plaza Athénée (França) No.22 Narisawa (Japão) No.23 Le Calandre (Itália) No.24 Ultraviolet by Paul Pairet (China) No.25 Cosme (Estados Unidos) No.26 Le Bernardin (EUA) No.27 Boragó (Chile) No.28 Odette (Cingapura) No.29 Alléno Paris au Pavillon Ledoyen (França) No.30 D.O.M. (Brasil) —estava em 16º em 2017 No.31 Arzak (Espanha) No.32 Tickets (Barcelona) No.33 Clove Club (Inglaterra) No.34 Alinea (EUA) No.35 Maaemo (Noruega) No.36 Reale (Itália) No.37 Tim Raue (Alemanha) No.38 Lyle’s (Inglaterra) No.39 Astrid y Gastón (Peru) No.40 Septime (França) No.41 Nihonryori RyuGin (Japão) No.42 The Ledbury (Inglaterra) No.43 Azurmendi (Espanha) —também recebeu o prêmio de sustentabilidade No.44 Mikla (Turquia) No.45 Dinner by Heston Blumenthal (Inglaterra) No.46 Saison (EUA) No.47 Schloss Schauenstein (Suíça) No.48 Hiša Franko (Eslovênia) No.49 Nahm (Tailândia) No.50 The Test Kitchen (África do Sul) | comida |
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] | A Padoca do Maní, em Pinheiros, lançou cumbucas com opções veganas para o almoço, a R$ 29, cada uma.São receitas elaboradas com a nutricionista Nininha Lacombe, especializada na alimentação que descarta produtos de origem animal.Os pratos mudam diariamente —às quartas, por exemplo, o menu traz arroz negro com ervilhas, brócolis e creme de espinafre; às quintas, há quibe de abóbora recheado com ricota de amêndoa, chutney de manga e mix de folhas com cenoura.O iogurte da casa, que já fez fama, também terá versão feita com leite de amêndoas (R$ 22). | comida |
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] | A despeito de sua atual popularidade e história centenária no Brasil, a gastronomia japonesa saiu do gueto faz pouco mais de 30 anos.Assim como foi um espanto para a primeira leva de imigrantes japoneses ver que o feijão pode ser salgado, e não restrito a receitas doces, o brasileiro não amou de cara a culinária nikkei dos imigrantes.Os pioneiros chegaram há 110 anos no navio Kasato Maru, com conservas, molhos, temperos e hashis para refeições ricas em pescados e vegetais. Mas, ao desembarcarem, foi carne e leite o que mais encontraram, quase uma novidade para eles. Até 1872, era proibido no Japão abater animais de carne vermelha, e a vaca era usada no arado.A chegada da embarcação, em 18 de junho de 1908, marca o início da imigração japonesa, a ser celebrada em São Paulo, na próxima segunda (18). Uma geração de mestres sushimen insistiu e conseguiu desbravar o mercado nacional, adaptando-se aos ingredientes e à clientela locais sem abrir mão da tradição.Estavam acompanhados de mulheres, filhos, irmãos e sobrinhos, que assumiam juntos o compromisso de fazer comida tradicional. A Folha ouviu histórias de três famílias pioneiras do sushi no Brasil. Família Haraguchi Foi a vontade de viajar o mundo que levou Masanobu Haraguchi, 65, à cozinha. Ele era estudante no sul do Japão quando viu um folheto de recrutamento de cozinheiros para um navio de passageiros. Candidatou-se à vaga e, enquanto esperava, pediu estágio num grande restaurante em Osaka.No Japão, quem entra na cozinha é chamado de perseguido, e a estreia dele fez jus à fama. Aos 18 anos, tomava golpes de cabo de faca e chutes de tamanco de madeira quando errava cortes, que tinha que aprender observando os mais experientes.Ele, que mal fala português, está todo dia atrás do balcão de seu restaurante, Ban —nome de seu primeiro mestre.Haraguchi veio para o país em 1979 e por aqui ficou. Inaugurou seu primeiro restaurante, Semba, 20 anos depois. “Os poucos brasileiros que tentavam visitar não sabiam o que pedir”. Foi quando criou o menu degustação, o que ajudou o brasileiro a conhecer melhor o cardápio nikkei.Margarida, a mulher de Masanobu, herdou da mãe japonesa o gosto pela cozinha, com quem aprendeu a fazer tudo do zero, até shoyu e tofu.Ela é a terceira dona e cuida do cardápio do Issa, um dos melhores izakayas (botecos japoneses) de São Paulo. O irmão Inácio cuida da cozinha.Os dois filhos de Margarida, Lúcio e Sérgio Ouba, moraram por mais de 20 anos no Japão. Voltaram ao Brasil em 2014 e abriram em SP o Izakaya Matsu —comida quente, esquema balcão, sempre cheio.“Há muita coisa abrasileirada no nosso restaurante, como a quantidade maior de comida que a gente serve. Vimos que o brasileiro iria sentir falta de sustança”, brinca Lúcio.Ban Rua Tomás Gonzaga, 18, Liberdade. De ter. a sex., das 11h30 às 14h30 e das 18h às 22h30; sáb. e dom., das 11h30 às 15h30 e das 18h às 21h30. Família Mizumoto + Yamashita Embora a mulher ocupe posição lateral na gastronomia japonesa tradicional, o sushi que se come no Brasil não seria o mesmo sem pessoas como Miyuki Mizumoto.Ela promoveu por anos o intercâmbio de sushimen japoneses no restaurante da família, o Shin-Zushi. Por lá passaram quase todos os homens do clã, como o sobrinho Edson Yamashita, dono do Ryo, estrelado pelo Guia Michelin.Ela tinha um ano quando veio com os pais e irmãos para as lavouras de SP. Logo cuidaram de abrir um mercadinho e, na lida no comércio, conheceu o seu marido, o mestre sushiman Shinji Mizumoto.Casaram-se e abriram um restaurante na Liberdade. Em 1992, Shinji —cuja faca está exposta no Museu da Imigração Japonesa— morreu de câncer, aos 44 anos. Ficaram três filhos ainda crianças, um restaurante e dívidas. “Contratamos alguns sushimen, mas o restaurante foi ficando ruim”, lembra a matriarca, que entrou em contato com donos de restaurantes em Tóquio e passou a receber sushimen para temporadas. Isso durou dez anos, período em que filhos e sobrinhos aprenderam como se estivessem em solo japonês.Há poucos anos, após uma década no Japão, o primogênito Ken voltou ao Brasil e assumiu o posto do primo Edson à frente do Shin-Zushi.Hoje, ele se reveza entre o Izakaya Yorimichi, que abriu em 2016, e o restaurante da família, onde compartilha os trabalhos com o irmão Nobu.Outra casa é a Makoto San, de Hélio Makoto Yamashita, sobrinho de Miyaki. Os filhos de Makoto, Rafael e Yumi, estagiam no Shin-Zushi —ele na cozinha, ela como garçonete.Shin-Zushi Rua Afonso de Freitas, 169, Paraíso. De ter. a sáb., das 11h30 às 14h e das 18h às 22h30, dom. das 18h às 22h. Família Shimizu Os filhos, sobretudo os mais velhos, têm quase que a obrigação de tomar a frente dos negócios na ausência do pai.Hideto, 38, o mais velho da família, abriu um restaurante aos 22 anos. Mas não foi o pai, Mitsuaki, um dos que introduziram a comida japonesa no país, que lhe ensinou o ofício, adquirido como autodidata.“Se quiser sobreviver na cozinha, precisa aprender a roubar a técnica observando”, dizia o patriarca. Aprendeu na cola do ajudante do restaurante da família, o Sushiguen.Hideto viveu no Japão e até trabalhou no lendário Nobu. Quando voltou ao Brasil, encontrou o restaurante da família dando lucro e buscou seu próprio negócio. Foi um motivo de reunião familiar, quando falou em fazer entregas. “Como alguém que passou por todas as escolas volta para abrir um delivery?”Hoje, o Sushi Beta, com matriz em NY e uma operação de delivery em São Paulo, tem 12 mil usuários regulares e possui uma plataforma que controla o processo do pedido, passando pela produção até a entrega de uma refeição.Mitsuaki, o pai, morreu em 2017. O vácuo foi assumido por Júlio Shimizu, primo de Hideto, e há um mês, Takeshi, irmão mais novo de Hideto, que chegou do Japão, também juntou-se à operação.Sushiguen Rua Manuel da Nóbrega, 76, Jardim Paulista. De seg. a sáb., das 11h30 às 14h30 e das 18h às 22h30. | comida |
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] | O grupo belga Barry Callebaut acaba de anunciar o lançamento do chocolate rubi no Brasil, sua maior inovação desde os anos 1980.Trata-se de uma nova categoria, como as classificações amargo, ao leite e branco, que faz referência a um chocolate rosa, sem corantes e aromatizantes, e quase 50% de cacau.Fruto de dez anos de pesquisa, junto a uma universidade alemã, as particularidades da produção do rubi, cujo alvo é a geração do milênio, são sigilosas. O mérito é “identificar esses cacaus com amêndoas muito roxas”, diz Fernando Brull, gerente de marketing.Revela-se, porém, que sua produção envolve as três espécies primárias de cacau (forasteiro, crioulo e trinitário), sobretudo da África mas também do Brasil e do Equador.Para chegar ao produto final, sementes são submetidas a etapas padrão no campo e na indústria, como fermentação, secagem e torrefação, com fases próprias, que realçam propriedades no chocolate de cor, textura e sabor.Na boca, nota-se uma cremosidade acentuada, que remete ao chocolate branco, e um sabor levemente ácido, de frutas vermelhas. “Não notei diferença nenhuma em relação ao branco na hora de derreter na bancada, mas tem uma nota frutada”, diz Arnor Porto, do restaurante Cantaloup. O confeiteiro foi um dos primeiros a receber uma amostra do rubi no Brasil e pretende combiná-lo a morango e vinho do Porto numa sobremesa.Caio Corrêa, outro chef-embaixador da Callebaut, está às voltas com testes, a arriscar o preparo de um bombom recheado com um creme de chocolate rubi com cumaru (semente aromática da Amazônia) e gel de framboesa.Já comercializado na Bélgica e no Japão, foi por ora impedido de ser vendido como chocolate pela agência regulatória americana (FDA) por não conter licor de chocolate na composição, segundo sites especializados dos EUA, e avalia-se lançar o produto naquele país como um composto.Em nota, a empresa diz que “o Rubi não se encaixa na definição atual do FDA para chocolate, mesmo ele tendo na composição apenas manteiga de cacau, açúcar, leite e massa de cacau. Na regulamentação americana, chocolate branco não pode ter massa de cacau na fórmula e chocolate ao leite precisa ter uma percentual maior deste ingrediente do que o Rubi tem. Do ponto de vista visual e de sabor, ele não é um chocolate amargo [escuro]. Portanto, provavelmente, terá que ser criada uma quarta e nova categoria de chocolate no órgão de regulação.”A Barry Callebaut, que aguarda resposta sobre o pedido para usar comercialmente o nome rubi, quer lançar o produto nos EUA em 2019. No Brasil, atende à legislação, que exige a porcentagem mínima de 25% de cacau. A marca, que venderá o produto no país em janeiro de 2019, prevê uma ação em agosto para mostrá-lo ao consumidor.Ao longo da espera, voltemos ao verso clássico de Gertrude Stein (1874-1946), “uma rosa é uma rosa é uma rosa”. | comida |
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] | Você conhece algo sobre Alain Ducasse, chef francês (naturalizado monegasco) que é o segundo mais premiado do mundo? Se não conhece, eis a chance de saber um pouco sobre ele: o documentário “A Busca do Chef Ducasse”. O longa estreia no Festival Varilux de Cinema Francês na sexta-feira em São Paulo, que ocorre em quase 60 cidades do país dos dias 7 a 20 deste mês.Mas vai saber exatamente isso, “um pouco”. Somente aquilo que o diretor (o prestigiado documentarista francês Gilles de Maistre) decidiu mostrar, sendo que ele é um tiete confesso do chef.Quem já conhece algo não terá a chance de ver mais a fundo o trabalho, os desafios, a vida de um cozinheiro tão excepcional e de tamanha magnitude.Ducasse tem 26 restaurantes em sete países (fora cafés e lojas), 21 estrelas no guia Michelin, além de livros, escolas e consultorias. Aos 61 anos, já não cozinha —ou, como diz, cozinha com a mente, idealizando menus.Tornou-se um empresário. Viaja pelo mundo com um staff de presidente de multinacional, ou de chefe de Estado (como os que encontra no filme, almoçando com o presidente da França, batendo papo com o príncipe de Mônaco, sendo bajulado pelo presidente da Mongólia).Tem um aparato de comunicação e de relações públicas capaz de blindar o que ele pretende esconder (começando por sua intimidade familiar) e filtrar o que ele deseja mostrar (furei o bloqueio certa vez, gravando com ele cenas interditadas... aparentemente foi indolor para todos).O diretor ficou dois anos acompanhando seu ídolo. Mas filmando somente belos momentos. O caviar do filme são as muitas viagens do chef, sempre charmosas e com belas filmagens, seja em Versalhes, China, Japão ou Brasil.Em meio a edificantes constatações do chef (que mostra sua crescente e pertinente preocupação com a saúde das pessoas e do planeta), não ficamos sabendo como é ser um cozinheiro negociando sua arte com poderosos sócios capitalistas; como é conciliar viagens constantes e a vida com mulher e filhos; como é conviver com a crítica e o fracasso (como o ocorrido com sua humilhante experiência em Nova York, nos anos 2000).Nada disso é sequer mencionado no filme. Como se Ducasse se movesse sozinho vida afora, embalado por seus sonhos, numa trilha triunfante sem percalços.Qualquer semelhança com a série “Chef’s Table”, da Netflix, seria parcialmente forçada.“A Busca do Chef Ducasse” não tem o tom meloso da série americana (talvez porque a cinematografia francesa seja mais distante da estética publicitária que encanta o público americano). Mas algo têm em comum: no lugar de documentários, são hagiografias. Gilles de Maistre, pelo menos, o admite, citado na revista francesa L’Express: “Eu não queria fazer algo jornalístico. Algo sentimental e não investigativo. [O filme] não é totalmente ele [Ducasse], mas é a visão que eu tenho dele”. | comida |
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] | Primeiro surgiram as fabriquetas artesanais, com embutidos livres de aditivos químicos industriais. Aí chefs aderiram à onda e passaram a fazer linguiças e curados nas cozinhas de restaurantes. Agora, produzir salame e presunto cru em casa se tornou hobby. A conservação de carnes com sal e temperos, uma das mais antigas práticas culinárias do mundo, se transformou no assunto da vez entre cozinheiros amadores, que lotam cursos presenciais e online e se organizam em comunidades para trocar experiências.A controversa comercialização desses produtos, por exemplo, terá novas regras em breve.Formado em 2013 pelo químico Peterson Rebechi, 36, o grupo Charcutaria Artesanal hoje reúne 47 mil inscritos no Facebook. Cerca de 95% são amadores às voltas com as primeiras linguiças.“Após uma viagem à Itália, passei a estudar salumeria italiana e criei o grupo como plataforma para organizar minha pesquisa. Postava testes de receitas e fotos da minha produção”, relata Rebechi.Em janeiro, lançou um curso básico online —são feitas cem inscrições por mês, em média. O avançado ficou pronto em abril, e atraiu 200 interessados no pré-lançamento.Charcutaria requer empenho —e não combina com pressa. Aficionado pelo tema, o administrador de empresas Giorgio Parodi, 47, dedica quase todos os fins de semana à busca do embutido perfeito.No apartamento de São Paulo onde mora, a adega climatizada foi transformada em câmara de maturação para salames, copas e presuntos que faz. A menina dos olhos é uma fatiadora manual Filizola dos anos 1930, restaurada.“Minha mulher não entende por que passo quatro meses fazendo uma copa que levaremos 20 minutos para comer”, diverte-se.Ante a escassa literatura em português sobre o tema, ele, que é fluente em cinco idiomas, partiu em busca de obras em francês, italiano, inglês e espanhol, atuais e do século passado.Parodi também fez cursos de linguiças artesanais com a chef Mônica Rangel, do restaurante Gosto com Gosto, em Visconde de Mauá (RJ), e de presunto cru com o chef Sauro Scarabotta, do restaurante Friccò, em São Paulo.Ainda assim, conta que cometeu diversos erros no início. “É como pilotar um avião, só com muitas horas de voo se produz alguma coisa boa. A primeira copa que tentei fazer, nem o cachorro comeu.”Criador de outro grupo do Facebook, o Mestres da Charcutaria Artesanal, Paulo Henrique Gennari, 46 anos, mais conhecido como Mandrake, tem se empenhado em desmitificar a charcutaria.Ele conta que muitos seguidores se surpreendem ao descobrir que é possível fazer embutidos em casa com o mínimo de equipamentos. “Basta ter geladeira comum e paciência”, resume.Em cursos presenciais com dois dias de duração ele ensina como preparar linguiça, presunto cru, copa, bresaola, lonzino, salame e pepperoni.Cerca de 90% dos alunos, diz, são amadores dispostos a fazer embutidos para consumo próprio. Mas há quem se empolgue a ponto de iniciar uma nova carreira.Morador de São José do Rio Preto (SP), Vitor Hugo Lucio, 37 anos, começou a fazer embutidos como hobby. Seguia um canal no YouTube, participava de grupos no Facebook e trocava receitas pelo WhatsApp. Em 2016, inaugurou a Dom Vito Embutidos Artesanais, que vende linguiça por encomenda.“Agora estou partindo para a produção de curados e defumados.”Veterano na salumeria à italiana, Sauro Scarabotta festeja a democratização dos embutidos artesanais. “É um movimento natural de quem está descobrindo um mundo novo. O Brasil estava muito atrasado nesse quesito”, afirma.Mas ele adverte para o risco de simplificar demais a produção. “Uma fermentação malfeita pode matar. É grande o risco de o produto ser contaminado pela toxina botulínica”.Nos cursos que dá no restaurante, Scarabotta reforça o conteúdo com aulas teóricas de Peterson Rebechi. O químico ensina, por exemplo, que o uso de nitrito de sódio, ou sal de cura, é indispensável.“É a única maneira cientificamente comprovada de eliminar o risco de contaminação”, diz Rebechi. “A indústria usa antioxidante para acelerar a cura, corantes, aromatizantes, glutamato monossódico e carne mecanicamente separada, com retalhos e gorduras, para homogeneizar a massa. Nos produtos artesanais, é só carne e tempero.” Onde aprenderA Cava Charcutaria Escola O químico Peterson Rebechi oferece dois módulos online: um ensina a fazer linguiças (R$ 99) e o outro, a preparar defumados (R$ 197) acava.com.brCharcutaria Gennari Tato Gennari, o Mandrake, leva seu curso a várias cidades —interessados podem montar uma turma e acertar a data pelo WhatsApp. As aulas, com dois dias de duração (R$ 350), acontecem em cozinhas de restaurantes ou residências Tel.: (16) 99724-7824Curato Charcutaria Artesanal Há dez anos, Edson Navarro ministra cursos, desde o nível básico até o avançado. É possível se matricular em um único módulo, como o de linguiças, agendado para 9/6 (R$ 480), ou escolher o intensivo completo, que dura três dias —o próximo será a partir de 18/6 (R$ 1440) Av. Engenho Araci, 559, Alto do Ipiranga, tel. (11) 97336-9793; curato.com.brEataly Bruno Alves ensina apenas os primeiros passos em suas aulas. A próxima, em 13/6, terá como tema “Da cabeça ao rabo: todas as partes do porco na salumeria”, com degustação (grátis) Av. Juscelino Kubitschek, 1489, Itaim Bibi, tel. (11) 3279-3300; eataly.com.brFriccò O chef Sauro Scarabotta ministra cursos básicos e avançados. Em 9/6 acontece uma aula em dupla: ele e o químico Peterson Rebechi vão desossar meio porco e discorrem sobre diferentes técnicas (R$ 599) R. Cubatão, 831, Vila Mariana, tel. (11) 5084-0480; fricco.com.br | comida |
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] | VITRINE Estilo vietnamita para sua cozinha BUN CHÁ Almôndegas de porco em caldo de molho de peixeReceita da chef Dani Borges, do pub vietnamita Bia Hoi, em São PauloAlmôndegasPreparo MolhoPreparoPara servir AGENDA EVENTOS EM SÃO PAULO8 a 10/6 2º Vinhos de Portugal Cerca de 600 rótulos lusitanos estão no evento, no Shopping JK Iguatemi. Há ingressos (de R$ 77 a R$ 180) em vinhosdeportugal2018.com.br9 e 10/6 Sabor Nacional Pequenos produtores que destacam a culinária nacional se reúnem na feira, no Museu da Casa Brasileira. A entrada é gratuita11/6 Diálogos Transversais Chefs como Benoît Vidal (L’Atelier d’Edmond) e Ivan Ralston (Tuju) debatem a alta gastronomia. Grátis, às 19h30, na Aliança Francesa da avenida Brigadeiro Faria Lima Ráscal lançará livro de receitas com clássicos familiaresPrestes a completar 25 anos, o Ráscal começa na próxima segunda (11) a produção de um livro de receitas prometido para o ano que vem. A obra homenageará clássicos familiares, como polpetone recheado com mozarela e o ravióli de espinafre. Para junho, o grupo, com cozinhas independentes em cada um dos 12 endereços no eixo Rio-São Paulo, incrementará seu caprichado bufê. A chef italiana Nadia Pizzo anuncia novidades como a torta de beterraba com gorgonzola e nozes e a fregola com frutos do mar, uma massa rústica da Sardenha em forma de grão. Aos dez anos, Chou tem menu surpresa e volta de receitasO Chou, primeiro restaurante da chef Gabriela Barretto, à frente também do Futuro Refeitório, comemora o décimo aniversário nesta sexta (8). Para a celebração, Barretto incluiu receitas que fizeram a fama da casa, presentes desde o primeiro dia de funcionamento, temporariamente no menu —caso das lulinhas frescas na chapa a carvão com aïoli e do avocado com dill, parmesão, ovo de codorna e sumac. Os pratos serão servidos entre os dias 13 e 25/6. Além disso, a chef abre a casa excepcionalmente em duas segundas (dias 18 e 25/6) para jantares-surpresa, com menu revelado apenas na ocasião. Os valores variam entre R$ 250 e R$ 350 (com harmonização assinada por Gabriela Monteleone). É preciso fazer reserva com antecedência pelo telefone 3083-6998). O Chou está localizado na rua Mateus Grou, 345, em Pinheiros. | comida |
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] | Tradicional Se você não fizer nenhuma observação ao chapeiro, o clássico é o francês, com uma boa colherada de manteiga, tostado direto na chapa quenteCanoa Há quem prefira pão com menos recheio. O pão sem miolo leva a alcunha de “canoa” pela formato parecido com o da embarcação Direto na chapa A manteiga direto na chapa vaporiza e entra pelas fibras do pão. O requeijão, por sua vez, forma uma crostinha dourada e crocanteNa saída Há quem prefira tostá-lo na chapa e, antes de embarcar para o balcão, pousar uma fina camada de manteiga ou requeijão no pão ainda fumeganteA Folha quer saber como é seu pão na chapa favorito! Clique aqui e saiba como mandar. | comida |
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] | Paul Bocuse ia todas as manhãs ao mercado comprar pessoalmente os produtos que ia usar no preparo do almoço —para o qual achava essencial sempre deixar uma "pequena margem de improviso" (como narra no livro "A Cozinha de Paul Bocuse"), para o qual estava sempre disposto a "correr alguns riscos". Sua cozinha, pois, juntava o "antigo e o novo", preservava respeitosamente o sabor próprio dos ingredientes e as estações —não se conformava que as pessoas queriam comer "aspargos do natal, morangos no ano-novo, caça na páscoa". Foi um sujeito sempre atento às experiências dos outros, que deviam servir aos demais, dizia. Uma ida sua à China, por exemplo, lhe fez notar sua capacidade de cozinhar muito bem os legumes, "durante pouco tempo". Houve uma simplificação no preparo dos pratos —menos molhos, receitas menos complexas e menos substanciosas— que "repercute igualmente o tempo de cozimento". "A grande cozinha não é sinônimo de cozinha complicada; a grande cozinha pode ser um peru cozido em água e sal, uma salada colhida da horta e temperada um pouco antes de ir para a mesa", escreveu. E dizia, que beleza, que "a cozinha é mais fácil e bem melhor quando feita para as pessoas que amamos". Para ele, aliás, bastava fazer um prato bem-feito para deixar os convidados satisfeitos —não era preciso uma sucessão de etapas em uma só refeição. "Deveríamos sair da mesa sentindo ainda um pouco de fome." E, para os cozinheiros amadores, reforçava a importância de fazer um menu que os permitisse estar à mesa com os convidados, na hora de comer —e não que lhes deixassem estressados. "Aprenda a preparar dois ou três pratos realmente bem, como um suflê de queijo inesquecível ou um gratinado de batatas admirável. Se, além disso, souberem preparar uma ave ao creme de leite ou assar um pernil de carneiro, a partida está ganha". E, bem, Bocuse realizou seu sonho de comprar uma casa e construir uma cozinha à sua maneira. "Instalarei nela o meu fogão", dizia ele, "uma bela mesa de madeira, e, se ainda tiver saúde e estímulo, prepararei todos os dias quatro ou cinco pratos e servirei a cozinha de Bocuse (...). Será, pois, por prazer e amizade que levarei essa tarefa a cabo. Um de nossos filósofos disse que a mesa era um altar que devia ser paramentado para celebrar o culto da amizade." | comida |
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] | Conhecido como "papa" da gastronomia francesa, o estrelado chef Paul Bocuse morreu aos 91 anos -informou, neste sábado (20), o ministro francês do Interior, Gérard Collomb. "A gastronomia está de luto. Que nossos chefs nos quatro cantos do mundo cultivem os frutos de sua paixão." Bocuse morreu em seu restaurante de Collonges-au-Mont-d'Or, vilarejo perto de Lyon. Há anos, sofria do mal de Parkinson. Paul Bocuse, que ostentou estrelas no guia "Michelin" por mais de cinco décadas, é um dos criadores da "nouvelle cuisine", movimento que revolucionou a gastronomia francesa pregando leveza aos pratos e dando especial atenção à apresentação. Criou um império de restaurantes, que seguiu da França para EUA e Japão, e se tornou, além de modelo de empreendedorismo, celebridade. Entre suas receitas consagradas, a mais famosa era a sopa de trufas: uma combinação de trufas, foie gras e caldo de frango, em uma tigela de porção única coberta por massa folhada. Mas sua contribuição vai além, ao defender a simplicidade e a seleção de produtos de qualidade. Por isso, foi nomeado chef do século mais de uma vez. "Tenho três estrelas e sempre tive três mulheres", já disse ao jornal "Libération". Bocuse, que em 1946 se casou com Raymonde Duvert, 20 anos depois conheceu Raymone Carlut e aos 70 anos se uniu a Patricia Zizza, que administrava sua carreira. Paul Bocuse nasceu em 1926 às margens do Rio Saône, na pequena Collonges-au-Mont-d'Or. Foi nessa região que começou a se aproximar da gastronomia. No restaurante da família, dava continuidade a uma linhagem de cozinheiros que remontava a 1765. E é lá que fica o principal de seus restaurantes. Aos 15 anos, se tornou aprendiz de Claude Maret. Em 1944, se alistou nas Forças Francesas Livres para combater na Alemanha nazista. Depois da guerra, continuou sua formação e, em 1958, abriu seu próprio restaurante, recuperando o L'Auberge du Pont, a casa da família, rebatizada com seu próprio nome. Em 1965, recebeu a terceira das estrelas, que nunca lhe abandonaram. Mas o auge da carreira veio no início da década de 1970, com a "nouvelle cuisine". Bocuse consolidou o movimento ao lançar um livro de receitas baseadas nos preceitos dessa inovadora forma de cozinhar. O movimento representou também a consagração dos cozinheiros como estrelas midiáticas, circunstância que Bocuse aproveitou com habilidade. Em 1990, fundou o Instituto Paul Bocuse, templo de aprendizagem da profissão, com sede em Lyon —um pouco antes, criou o Bocuse d'Or (1987), prestigiada competição mundial de cozinha. A saúde do chef que inspirou a animação "Ratatouille" (2007) fraquejou com o Parkinson, mas ele não perdeu o bom humor. Em 2014, por exemplo, se submeteu a uma complicada cirurgia e, ao se recuperar, disse à sua mulher: "Querida, fui bem-sucedido na vida, mas fracassei na morte". "A vida é uma piada. Portanto, é preciso trabalhar como se fôssemos morrer com cem anos e viver como se fôssemos morrer amanhã", disse certa vez o chef. | comida |
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] | Morreu no ultimo domingo, 25, em sua casa em Corrèze, no centro da França, o grande chef de cozinha Alain Senderens. Ele tinha 77 anos. Foi um dos precursores da nouvelle cuisine francesa nos anos 1970, ao lado de nomes como Paul Bocuse, Michel Guérard, Pierre Troisgros. E foi mestre de grandes nomes como Alain Passard —este trabalhou com Senderens no seu primeiro restaurante, o Archestrate, com o qual em 1978 conquistou três estrelas no guia "Michelin", e cujo local ele passou ao discípulo: ele sedia hoje o Arpège, três-estrelas de Passard. Não fosse por seus óculos e semblante meditativo, mas também pela forma elaborada com que expressava suas opiniões, eu o considerava o mais intelectual daquela turma (turma que já era veterana quando eu comecei a conhecer). Na prática, Senderens não era somente inquieto, cerebral, mas também ousado —não hesitava em colocar em prática ideias avançadas. Nunca estive no Archestrate; eu conheci sua cozinha no Lucas Carton, lindo cenário envolvido há mais de um século com madeira entalhada em estilo art-nouveau por Majorelle. Ali foi um dos primeiros lugares em que o jovem Senderens trabalhou no início de carreira; e para ali ele voltou em 1985. No Archestrate ele inovou segundo os cânones da nouvelle cuisine, mas colocando sua marca pessoal —um de seus pratos emblemáticos, um pato (canard Apicius), tinha tempero rico em especiarias, dando um toque de exotismo raro na cozinha francesa. Já no Lucas Carton ele instituiu outro procedimento que viria para ficar: o de harmonizar vinhos com cada um dos pratos do menu-degustação. Apaixonado pela bebida, tinha prazer em investigar que rótulo melhor iria com cada prato; suas experimentações o levaram inclusive a propor combinações então inusitadas, como a de inúmeros queijos com vinhos brancos (que são hoje unanimidade entre sommeliers). Em 2005, mais um passo adiante: cansado de obedecer às regras não escritas que obrigavam um restaurante a ser caro e luxuoso para merecer as três estrelas do guia "Michelin", ele declarou que não mais fazia questão delas, mudando radicalmente seu serviço e o menu. O Lucas Carton passou a chamar-se Alain Senderens, e seu magnífico salão da place de la Madeleine deixou de ostentar toalhas nas mesas, o serviço ficou mais informal, o menu foi simplificado e teve seus preços cortados à metade. Aposentado da cozinha desde 2014, seu restaurante voltou a chamar-se Lucas Carton. Mas mesmo fora da lide diária nos fogões, Senderens não deixou de atuar, sempre com inquietação. Foi consultor do moderno, badalado (e bastante inquietante: testemunho de quem se hospedou lá) hotel-boutique Mamma Shelter, quase na periferia de Paris; e com o dono deste, Cyril Aouizerate, abriu no Brooklin, Nova York, um restaurante vegetariano, que fechou o ano passado. Numa trajetória cheia de histórias, Alain Senderens deixou marcas na gastronomia francesa e mundial que hoje estão presentes num sem número de restaurantes e chefs, e mantidas vivas por tantos profissionais que ele influenciou. | comida |
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] | Nesta sexta-feira (17), a Polícia Federal deflagrou uma operação no mercado de carne. A acusação é de que fiscais do Ministério da Agricultura facilitavam a produção de produtos adulterados, emitindo certificados sanitários sem fiscalização. Cerca de 30 empresas estão na mira da investigação. Há a acusação de que carne estragada foi comercializada em supermercados e que salsichas teriam sido adulteradas. Confira, abaixo, dicas para não comer carne estragada em tempos de carne fraca. NA GÔNDOLA Prefira produtos novos, ou seja, com datas mais próximas da produção do que do término do prazo de validade. "O tempo trabalha contra a conservação de todo alimento, mesmo dentro do período marcado na etiqueta", diz o chef István Wessel, especialista em carnes. VALIDADE O período de 60 dias de validade, muitas vezes usado por frigoríficos, só é adequado se a carne for mantida na temperatura ideal durante todo o tempo. "Quem garante isso? No supermercado, por exemplo, podem haver muitos acidentes de percurso, como quando o cliente desiste da carne na boca do caixa e ela permanece lá por horas", diz Wessel. USE O NARIZ "Todo produto quando começa a se decompor, ou quando recebeu um tratamento químico, dá sinais para o nariz. A carne em condições normais não tem cheiro de nada", diz Wessel. Ele ressalta que quando a peça é embalada à vácuo, o pacote tem um cheiro que deve desaparecer em dois ou três minutos. Caso contrário, há algo errado. Não se guie apenas pela cor, que pode ter alteração por diversos fatores. SEM CONSTRANGIMENTO Ao fazer compras no açougue em que a peça não costuma estar embalada à vácuo, peça para cheirar a carne antes de levar para casa. "Não deve haver constrangimento algum nisso", diz Wessel. CONSERVAÇÃO EM CASA O especialista recomenda que a carne não passe mais de dois dias na geladeira de casa. "A temperatura do eletrodoméstico é de 7°C, 8°C, quando o ideal é até 4°C." E, no freezer, não deixe que armazenamento passe de 30 dias. "O que temos em casa não é um congelador, que trabalha rápido, mas um conservador, que mantém o produto congelado. É diferente do industrial, onde a carne pode ser mantida por 90 dias", explica Wessel. VENCIDA X CONTAMINADA Diferentemente de alguns países que indicam o prazo de "consumo ideal", o Brasil usa dados de validade. No caso da carne, em que há risco pra saúde, é o ideal. "Uma carne vencida não necessariamente faz mal a saúde. Mas, na dúvida, é melhor respeitar a data", diz a bioquímica de alimentos Ellen Lopes. De outro lado, há a contaminação, fato que depende totalmente da procedência do produto: das práticas no campo, do abate, do corte, da estocagem, da distribuição e da manutenção da temperatura. "Os regulamentos devem ser cumpridos. Há patógenos que não alteram a carne, mas podem causar diarreia, vômito e, em alguns casos, até levar a óbito", diz Lopes. Por isso a importância de comprar em um local de confiança. | comida |
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] | Os espanhóis Eduardo Sousa e Diego Labourdette são uma dupla desigual: enquanto Sousa é um jovial agricultor de quinta geração, Labourdette é um acadêmico de voz suave, doutor em ecologia e especialista em aves migratórias. Juntos, eles comercializam foie gras. Em 2013 ambos se juntaram para desenvolver uma forma mais ética e sustentável —sem a usual e controversa alimentação forçada— de produzir o fígado de ganso ou pato com alto teor de gordura cultuado como iguaria. Para tal, eles se aproveitam dos gansos selvagens que uma vez por ano pousam na Espanha. Lá eles se alimentam de azeitonas e bolotas, o fruto do carvalho, antes de voarem em direção ao sul, onde passam o inverno. Em pouco tempo, Sousa e Labourdette se tornaram estrelas do mundo da culinária. "O mercado de foie gras é inacreditável. A França produz milhões de quilos por ano", explica Sousa, em sua fazenda de cerca de 500 hectares, na província espanhola de Badajoz, a cerca de cinco horas de Madri. Ao fundo escuta-se o burburinho rouco de gansos. "É um mundo totalmente diverso do que fazemos aqui." Grande parte do foie gras comercial envolve a gavage, brutal prática de alimentação em que sondas gástricas são forçadas pela goela dos animais. Através delas, seus estômagos recebem no prazo de algumas semanas o que eles comeriam em toda uma vida. Assim, os fígados adquirem dez vezes o tamanho normal, acumulando grande depósito de gordura, o que torna o foie gras tão saboroso. A controversa prática é proibida em pelo menos 20 países. GANSOS NATURALMENTE SELVAGENS A dupla de empreendedores resolveu produzir seu foie gras comercialmente de forma natural, sustentável e sem crueldade com os animais. Segundo Sousa, o método não é novo, já era usado no país há mais de 500 anos, antes da Inquisição católica. "Em 1492, a Espanha expulsou a família judaica que vivia nesta terra e costumava criar gansos, e a Igreja tomou a propriedade. Trezentos anos depois, minha família a comprou da Igreja e nós revivemos essa tradição judaica." Caminhando sobre as amplas colinas verdes pontilhadas de oliveiras e carvalhos, Sousa chama por seus quase 2.000 gansos como se fossem crianças. Eles circulam livremente, não há viveiros. Em vez de alimentação forçada, engordam de forma natural e dobram de peso em poucas semanas, preparando-se para sua migração anual. Os gansos selvagens passam o verão no norte da Europa, antes de migrarem para a África no outono, explica Labourdette. "Eles param na Espanha no caminho, para se alimentar e ganhar energia para o longo voo. Mas muitos nunca vão embora, pois encontram um habitat tão bom por aqui." Gansos são adaptáveis e comem o que o ambiente oferece. O foie gras da Dinamarca tem gosto de peixe porque os gansos da região comem frutos do mar. Na Espanha, eles se alimentam das altamente calóricas bolotas, azeitonas, figos e sementes. SACRIFÍCIO DA LUA NOVA Ao contrário das grandes fazendas comerciais de foie gras, onde os gansos são abatidos com poucas semanas para a retirada dos fígados, na fazenda espanhola isso ocorre apenas uma vez por ano, com os primeiros ventos frios do outono, normalmente em outubro, na noite de lua nova. Sousa chama isso de "o sacrifício". "Nós paralisamos as aves com lanternas: elas ficam hipnotizadas quando são confrontadas com luz brilhante à noite. É uma prática antiga, é como se estivessem dormindo. Então nós as sacrificamos a faca. É rápido, e elas não sofrem", assegura Sousa. As penas são arrancadas, uma parte da carne é curada para fazer presunto, e os fígados são temperados e cozidos por cerca de 20 minutos nos mesmos frascos de vidro em que serão comercializados. SABOR DA TERRA O caseiro da fazenda, Domingo Diaz Escudero, dedilha flamenco na guitarra enquanto visitantes se reúnem em torno de uma mesa de madeira para provar o lote de foie gras do outono passado. Seu sabor é suave e rico, evocando as ervas, azeitonas e frutos silvestres que os gansos comeram pelas colinas em geral semicobertas de neblina. "As músicas têm o cheiro e o sabor do país de onde vêm. Tal como os nossos gansos", comenta Escudero, nascido e criado nas proximidades da fazenda da família Sousa, e que vai sempre a pé para o trabalho. "Elas são parte da natureza." Em 2006, o foie gras da fazenda espanhola ganhou o cobiçado prêmio francês de gastronomia Coup de Coeur —o equivalente aos Jogos Olímpicos para os gourmets. O fato chamou a atenção do chef nova-iorquino Dan Barber, que, após visitar o local, citou o modelo de negócios da fazenda espanhola numa palestra na prestigiada série de conferências TED (Tecnology, Entertainment, Design). "Eu fui à Espanha há uns poucos meses e provei o melhor foie gras da minha vida", elogiou, na ocasião. "Foi a melhor experiência culinária da minha vida. O que eu vi me deixa convencido de que esse é o futuro da culinária." Barber descreveu a extrema simplicidade da fabricação do foie gras, definindo-a como "transformadora e sustentável". Ele também escreveu a respeito em seu livro mais recente, O Terceiro Prato (publicado no Brasil pela editora Rocco). E as vendas de Sousa dispararam. De Badajoz para o mundo Eduardo Sousa conta que para sua família a produção da especialidade nunca passou de um hobby, "mas desde a visita de Dan Barber, passei a receber encomendas do meu foie gras de todo o mundo". Ele vende cada grama que fabrica e tem uma longa lista de espera, embora um frasco pequeno custe 200 euros, devido à produção restrita aos 1.600 gansos abatidos a cada outono. Mas Sousa só toma o que a natureza permite: o abate em pequena escala garante o repovoamento natural e comida abundante para os gansos sobreviventes. O fazendeiro espanhol assinou recentemente contrato de fornecimento de seu foie gras ético para os cruzeiros marítimos de luxo da firma Celebrity Cruises. Ele aceita pedidos pelo site sousa-labourdette.com, mas o único local onde se pode comprar pessoalmente o produto é numa minúscula loja próxima à fronteira da Espanha com Portugal. O estabelecimento tem recebido fregueses até mesmo de San Francisco, nos Estados Unidos: "Nós vimos a palestra nos TED Talks, e aí eu fiz o meu namorado parar aqui no caminho para Madri", conta a turista americana Alegra Cabellon. "Estou super curiosa para experimentar esse produto." Ela tira um selfie com Eduardo Sousa e compra vários frascos de seu foie gras. No entanto terá que consumi-los antes de voltar para casa, já que as regras aduaneiras não permitem que eles entrem nos EUA. Por enquanto, o produto só é vendido na Europa, mas Eduardo Sousa espera em breve poder exportá-lo para a América do Norte. | comida |
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] | A primeira edição do festival Fartura em São Paulo teve, além de representantes da gastronomia de todos os Estados brasileiros, balanço positivo em termos de público. De acordo com a organização, toda a carga de ingressos disponível foi vendida: mais de 8.000 pessoas passaram pelo Jockey Club entre sábado (25) e domingo (26). O número faz da edição paulistana a melhor estreia do festival, do qual a Folha é parceira. O projeto, que também faz expedições pelo país para mapear ingredientes e receitas, nasceu em Tiradentes (MG) e já realizou eventos em Belo Horizonte, Porto Alegre e Fortaleza. Em termos absolutos, o festival de São Paulo só atraiu menos público do que os realizados nas cidades mineiras (na capital, Belo Horizonte, foram 10 mil visitantes em 2015 e, em Tiradentes, 40 mil –mas em dez dias de evento). A ideia, agora, é ampliar a edição do Fartura paulistano no ano que vem. "Nossa intenção é continuar em São Paulo –e ter em 2017 uma estrutura maior, porque percebemos a demanda. Demos à cidade algo que ela queria", diz Rodrigo Ferraz, organizador do evento. "E o DNA na cidade será o mesmo deste ano: levar ao menos um representante de cada Estado do país, entre ingredientes, chefs e produtores." Outra peculiaridade no Jockey foi o gasto médio mais alto dos visitantes –que podiam comer pratos por R$ 25 e petiscos por até R$ 22, além de levar para casa produtos como queijo, goiabada, café, biscoitos, chocolate e cachaça. Segundo a organização, o gasto médio de R$ 60 por pessoa foi o mais alto em uma edição do Fartura; nas outras cidades, o chamado tíquete médio é de R$ 40 a R$ 45. Na conta final, foram servidos cerca de 20 mil pratos, que levaram às panelas locais oito toneladas de alimentos. AULAS LOTADAS Com todos os ingressos vendidos, as aulas e apresentações de chefs (realizadas em espaços com lotação de não mais que 40 pessoas) lotaram e, nas barracas de comida, havia filas constantes –a reportagem conversou com ao menos um frequentador que havia comprado o ingresso com um cambista. Ao longo do evento, chefs tiveram que alterar receitas, porque viram se esgotar os ingredientes (leia ao lado), e produtores "fecharam as portas" mais cedo. No domingo, pouco depois das 14h, já haviam acabado as cem unidades de queijo da serra da Canastra. (CAROLINA MUNIZ, IARA BIDERMAN, JÚLIA ZAREMBA, MAGÊ FLORES, MARÍLIA MIRAGAIA, RENATA HELENA RODRIGUES) | comida |
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] | Arroz, banana, farofa, costela bovina e um ovo frito dourado na parte de baixo, gema molinha. Com esse pê-efe, a chef cuiabana Ariani Malouf, do Mahalo, foi o maior sucesso do Fartura. "É legal ousar, mas em um evento como esse, com pessoas de diferentes gostos, é preciso ter cautela para agradar a todos", diz a chef. Desde o início do sábado (25) começaram as filas para provar a porção, de R$ 25. Ariani já havia participado do Fartura em Belo Horizonte, em 2015, com a costela bovina e rosti de mandioca. Diante do sucesso da carne, pensou nos outros acompanhamentos, já usados no picadinho do restaurante. Nos dois dias foram vendidos 750 pratos. Nas últimas 200 porções, a costela foi trocada por filé-mignon, porque a chef não estava preparada para tanta procura. O mesmo aconteceu com a barriga de porco servida por Leo Paixão, do Glouton de Belo Horizonte, que trocou o ingrediente esgotado por um espetinho suíno. Vinda de diferentes regiões do país, comida substanciosa, mesmo que em pequenas porções, fez sucesso. Além da costela e do porco, foram muito bem cotados o baião de dois (feijão-verde, arroz vermelho, carne de sol, queijo coalho) de Onildo Rocha, do restaurante Roccia, de João Pessoa (PB) e o rojão (bolo de carne suína moída) de Angelita Gonzaga, do Arimbá, de São Paulo. Os frutos do mar compareceram, entre outros, no arroz cremoso de Wanderson Medeiros, do Picuí,de Maceió, no vatapá que recheou os churros de tapioca de Morena Leite, do Capim Santo (SP) e, claro, estrelaram a paella feita ao vivo por Rodrigo Zarife, do Ro.Za Bistrô de Belo Horizonte. FOGO DE CHÃO O grande representante do Sul do país foi o churrasco. Antonio Costaguta, do restaurante El Topador, de Porto Alegre, montou um fogo de chão para assar seus costelões ao ar livre. O cheiro da carne abriu o apetite do público, que não pareceu preocupado em sair com as roupas e os cabelos cheirando a fumaça. Muito antes do horário marcado para o churrasco ser servido (às 16h de sábado e domingo), as pessoas se aglomeravam no cercado montado para o churrasco, que começava a ser preparado às 9h, sob a supervisão de membros do Corpo de Bombeiros. TACACÁ Para representar o Norte, Daniela Martins, do Lá Em Casa, de Belém, levou o famoso tacacá (caldo de tucupi, goma de tapioca, camarão seco e jambu). Além do tacacá no espaço dos chefs, a culinária do Norte marcou presença no espaço degustação. Os chefs da Cabana do Lago, de Tocantins, prepararam receitas com tucunaré, cupuaçu e buriti. Representantes da região também fizeram pratos com rã e tartarugas. Os vegetarianos foram agraciados com uma degustação de cogumelos da Amazônia, do chef Felipe Schaedler, do Banzeiro de Manaus. Outras opções para quem não comia carne foram o nhoque de beterraba da chef Tassia Magalhães, do Pomodori de São Paulo, e o hambúrguer vegetariano do Buzina. Apesar de Fartura ser voltado à gastronomia brasileira, os vinhos vendidos no evento eram argentinos –o que não incomodou o público que, talvez motivado pelo frio, circulou à vontade com tacinhas e garrafas. CAROLINA MUNIZ, IARA BIDERMAN, JÚLIA ZAREMBA, MAGÊ FLORES, MARÍLIA MIRAGAIA E RENATA HELENA RODRIGUES | comida |
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] | "Acabou aquela história de complexo de vira-lata. Agora as pessoas têm orgulho de comprar produtos brasileiros. É só olhar esse festival", diz João Tavares, produtor de cacau gourmet (de alta qualidade), premiado duas vezes no Salon du Chocolat, um dos mais importantes do mundo. Hoje, ele também fornece para o renomado chef francês Alain Ducasse, para a chef Juliana Motter, da Maria Brigadeiro e para a gigante Harrods. João é pioneiro na retomada da produção de cacau no sul da Bahia, que foi devastada pela vassoura de bruxa, doença que dizimou a plantação nessa área nos anos 1980. Terceira geração de cacauicultores, ele decidiu mudar o sistema de produção há dez anos e investir num cacau de alta qualidade (e não o commoditie para exportação), com cuidados de plantio, seleção, secagem e beneficiamento. Com a qualidade, ganhou mercados dentro e fora do país. "Quando comecei esse movimento, me chamaram de louco", diz João. O gerente da Supergasbras (distribuidora de gás), Paulo de Campos Coelho foi um dos que provou o chocolate feito com o cacau de João Tavares. "Gostei muito. Precisamos divulgar nosso produto e não deixar que ele seja vendido fora do país", diz. Paulo, que ficou três horas no festival e, para entrar, teve que comprar ingressos de cambistas por R$ 40, já que os ingressos para o evento se esgotaram por volta das 14h30. | comida |