news_id
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sequence | sentence
stringlengths 301
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] | Os franceses Thomas Weil e Quentin Weisbuch (que fundou o estúdio de design gráfico e direção de arte Furious) estavam tão entediados com os sanduíches sem graça que viam na hora do almoço que resolveram cozinhar hambúrgueres diferentes em sua pequena cozinha. Logo, isso virou um ritual: improvisando e experimentando a cada semana novas formas de cozinhar sanduíches diferentes e criativos, mas ainda assim comíveis, a dupla também inova nas fotografias. O resultado dessas experiências é o livro "Fat & Furious Burger", com fotos e 60 receitas em francês. Sem lançamento no Brasil, para comprá-lo é preciso encomendar pela Amazon. | comida |
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] | De ambiente simples e ao lado de rotisseria de mesmo nome, o restaurante Malandrino serve desde 1940 comida de cantina a preços bem baixos –massas e risotos por R$ 9,50; carnes, até R$ 10. As massas frescas são servidas com bastante molho. Uma opção é o conchiglie quatro queijos, mas há todo tipo de massa aberta ou fechada. A dica é ir durante a semana, quando a casa fica um pouco menos cheia. O mesmo vale para o bar Sala da Sogra, que serve pratos um pouco mais elaborados. No menu-executivo, o feijão-branco com costelinha sai por R$ 22. Do cardápio normal, o escalope com batata e arroz custa R$ 30. MALANDRINO ONDE r. Cap. Macedo, 176; tel. 11/5539-5420 HORÁRIO ter. a sáb., das 11h às 16h; dom. e fer., das 12h às 15h OUTRA SUGESTÃO nhoque (R$ 9,50) SALA DA SOGRA ONDE r. Luís Góis, 1.150; tel. 11/2389-5519 HORÁRIO seg., 11h30 às 15h; ter. a sex., 11h30 às 15h e 18h às 23h; sáb., 12h às 16h e 19h às 23h30 OUTRA SUGESTÃO frango com risoto sete grãos e salada (R$ 30) | comida |
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] | Brownie, bolo, torta-musse, biscoito, barrinha cremosa, chocolate. É possível comprar essas e outras doçuras sem arredar o pé de casa –basta mandar um e-mail ou pegar o telefone. É crescente o time de doceiros que trocam o sonho da loja própria por ateliês fechados, onde os clientes raramente aparecem. Muitos sequer têm espaço para receber a freguesia e se encarregam eles próprios das entregas. Os altos custos fixos para manter uma loja e a possibilidade de só colocar em produção o que já foi efetivamente vendido são apontados pelos confeiteiros como os principais motivos para a escolha. É o caso de Ana Raquel Samadello, dona da marca de brownies AnaSama, inaugurada em 2013 –na cozinha da própria casa, ela assa até 140 fornadas por mês, que somam 2.000 bolinhos. "Participei de quatro edições da Feirinha Gastronômica e já quis ter uma loja, mas desisti. Agora, meu foco é ganhar volume, chegar a 30 mil unidades por mês e vender também por atacado", antecipa ela. Para Roberta Zogbi, proprietária da Petite Fleur Pâtisserie, a principal vantagem é só entregar doces acabados de fazer. "Lojas precisam ter vitrines sempre cheias e muitos produtos acabam sobrando. Aqui não tem desperdício. Vendo tudo bem fresco porque produzo conforme os pedidos." Para os clientes, contam pontos a facilidade de encomendar à distância e a chance de customizar os pedidos. Mas é preciso estar atento ao sistema de entregas –cada ateliê adota o seu. Para avaliar de cookie a cocada, o "Comida" testou anonimamente dez docerias sem loja, em São Paulo e no Rio, entre os dias 1º de dezembro e 2 de janeiro. A COCADA (SP) Professora de culinária, Andréa Maluf produz uma deliciosa cocada de forno com interior cremoso, que compensa os tropeços do serviço, desde a encomenda até a entrega. O doce sai em dois tamanhos, para 8 ou 15 pessoas. Recomenda-se servi-lo morno com sorvete de creme. Resiste quatro dias fora da geladeira ou dez dias sob refrigeração (pode ser congelado). QUANTO R$ 50 (800 g); R$ 75 (1,1 kg) ONDE tel. (11) 98152-9922 PEDIDO MÍNIMO não tem PRAZO 2 dias úteis TAXA a partir de R$ 10 (zona sul de SP) PAGAMENTO dinheiro ou cheque no ato da entrega AVALIAÇÃO embalagem eficiente, atendimento confuso, entrega irregular * ALL ABOUT CAKES (SP) A chef Joyce Galvão já trabalhou no restaurante espanhol El Celler de Can Roca e apresentou o programa "A Confeitaria", de 2010 a 2012 no canal a cabo Bem Simples. No ateliê na Mooca, em SP, inaugurado em 2011, ela faz tortas, cupcakes, biscoitos, docinhos de festa e delicados caramelos. Vale provar o bolo cloud, com massa de coco fofa e calda de doce de leite caseiro. QUANTO R$ 50 (bolo cloud, 10 pessoas), R$ 50 (calda de doce de leite) ONDE aboutcakes.com.br PEDIDO MÍNIMO 10 docinhos ou 1 bolo PRAZO 1 semana TAXA R$ 15 a R$ 40 (só em SP) PAGAMENTO depósito bancário AVALIAÇÃO atendimento telefônico nem sempre funciona; embalagem eficiente, entrega pontual * ANASAMA (SP) A doceira Ana Raquel Sama prepara 14 sabores de brownie à base de chocolate meio amargo e dez versões de blondies, feitos com chocolate branco. Os bolos de textura cremosa saem em fornadas com 20 ou 40 pedaços, que medem 6 cm x 5,5 cm e podem ser enriquecidos com ingredientes como damasco e doce de leite. QUANTO R$ 30 a R$ 40 (20 pedaços) ONDE [email protected] ou (11) 98552-0143 PEDIDO MÍNIMO 20 pedaços PRAZO 2 dias úteis TAXA R$ 15 (em SP) e R$ 10 (ABC) PAGAMENTO dinheiro, depósito antecipado ou cartão AVALIAÇÃO atendimento simpático e entrega pontual; os brownies sofrem no bagageiro do motoboy * CARLA DAUDT (RJ) Formada pela Ècole Lenôtre, em Paris, a confeiteira começou vendendo macarons, em 2005, e expandiu a linha para chocolates e petit fours. Em um pequeno ateliê na Barra da Tijuca, no Rio, ela prepara até 5.000 doces por mês, inclusive para grandes eventos. Entre seus hits estão a tuille de chocolate meio amargo com pó de ouro e o palito de palmier. QUANTO R$ 85 (500 g de petit fours) ONDE carladaudt.com.br PEDIDO MÍNIMO 40 macarons ou 500 g de petit fours PRAZO 2 dias úteis TAXA a partir de R$ 25 PAGAMENTO depósito antecipado AVALIAÇÃO atendimento cortês, entrega pontual, embalagem eficiente * CHOCOLATRIA (SP) Simone Izumi é autora do blog chocolatria.com e do livro "Loucuras de Chocolate" (Panda Books). Em uma casa no Campo Belo, em SP, ela dá aulas e faz doces –o espaço abre ao público aos sábados (11h às 17h) para entregar os pedidos e vender no varejo. O chocolate é o protagonista, mas há exceções, como o cookie sandwich (foto), sanduíche de biscoito de castanha-de-caju com recheio de nozes. QUANTO R$ 6 (cookie sandwich), R$ 12 (brownie para duas pessoas) ONDE chocolatria.com PEDIDO MÍNIMO não tem PRAZO 1 semana TAXA não tem PAGAMENTO dinheiro, cheque ou cartão de crédito AVALIAÇÃO atendimento simpático, geralmente a cargo da dona * LE COOKIER (SP) Inaugurado em novembro, o ateliê do doceiro Wayner Lyra só produz cookies. Na cozinha, três pessoas assam biscoitos artesanais caprichados, embalados um a um, em quatro sabores –tradicional com gotas de chocolate, caramelo com flor de sal, noz pecan e le choc fondu (chocolate com textura cremosa). Há uma linha decorada. QUANTO R$ 12 a R$ 16 (6 unidades), R$ 23 a R$ 31 (12 unidades), R$ 46 a R$ 61 (24 unidades) ONDE lecookier.com PEDIDO MÍNIMO 6 unidades PRAZO 7 dias úteis TAXA preço da postagem via Sedex PAGAMENTO depósito antecipado AVALIAÇÃO atendimento bom pelo site, confuso pelo telefone; entrega eficiente, embalagem caprichada * MAKE THE CAKE (SP) A especialidade da doceira Priscila Brunsfeld é a linha infantil, com bolos decorados, cupcakes, popcakes e brownies em formato de estrela e coração. Ela ainda vende bem-casados e docinhos enrolados e de colher, que podem ser entregues em domicílio ou retirados no ateliê, na Lapa, em SP, onde ela dá aulas de confeitaria. QUANTO a partir de R$ 2,10 (cada docinho), R$ 3,50 (cada whoopie), R$ 4,30 (cada popcake) ONDE makethecake.com.br PEDIDO MÍNIMO 25 unidades PRAZO 1 semana TAXA a partir de R$ 40 PAGAMENTO depósito bancário AVALIAÇÃO atendimento e embalagem eficientes, entrega pontual * PETITE FLEUR PÂTISSERIE (SP) Formada pela francesa Ècole Lenôtre, Roberta Zogbi inaugurou um pequeno ateliê em 2012, em Pinheiros. Há um ano, mudou-se para o Itaim Bibi, onde tem pronta-entrega só em datas festivas. Os 7.000 docinhos que prepara por semana, em 35 variedades, são vendidos em pequenas embalagens ou em grandes quantidades para festas. A linha ainda inclui o mil-folhas de chocolate meio amargo (foto). QUANTO R$ 2,60 a R$ 3,20 (cada docinho), R$ 90 (mil-folhas de chocolate de 15 x 20 cm) ONDE petitefleurpatisserie.com.br PEDIDO MÍNIMO 30 docinhos PRAZO 1 semana TAXA R$ 40 (só em SP) PAGAMENTO depósito antecipado AVALIAÇÃO atendimento e embalagem eficientes, entrega pontual * SEPT AU JOUR (RJ) Ex-dono de uma pequena fábrica de sobremesas para restaurantes cariocas, Marco Mussi passou a trabalhar em casa e tornou-se especialista numa torta-musse sem farinha e à base de sete chocolates. Para manter a textura cremosa, não pode ser refrigerada. Há um tamanho (18 cm, 12 fatias) e sete versões. Além delas, tem o gâteau, como o de chocolate branco com morango e amêndoas (serve 25 pessoas; foto). QUANTO torta-musse, de R$ 110 a R$ 155; gâteau, de R$ 380 a R$ 450 ONDE septaujour.com.br PEDIDO MÍNIMO não tem PRAZO 2 dias úteis TAXA não tem (alguns bairros do Rio) PAGAMENTO depósito antecipado AVALIAÇÃO atendimento cortês, entrega pontual, embalagem eficiente * THE COOKIE SHOP (SP) Doceira autodidata, Paula Cinini entrou na confeitaria com o blog thecookieshop.wordpress.com. Suas receitas fizeram tanto sucesso que ela passou a aceitar encomendas. Além de docinhos, bolos e cupcakes personalizados para festas, ela assa cookies, brownies e ótimas barrinhas cremosas de limão-cravo. QUANTO R$ 70 (16 barrinhas de limão), R$ 50 (bolo de maçã para 20 pessoas), R$ 7,50 (cada cupcake) ONDE thecookieshop.wordpress.com PEDIDO MÍNIMO 20 cupcakes, 500 g de cookies, 16 barrinhas de limão PRAZO a partir de 2 dias úteis TAXA a partir de R$ 15 (só em SP) PAGAMENTO depósito antecipado AVALIAÇÃO atendimento e embalagem eficientes, entrega pontual Veja receita de Barra de limão-cravo da The Cookie Shop | comida |
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] | O restaurante Kebab Salonu, cujo salão de 90 lugares na rua Augusta fechou em 2011, foi reaberto em novembro na rua Heitor Penteado em um espaço menor e com espírito de lanchonete. A casa agora tem 30 lugares e os pedidos são feitos diretamente no caixa. O capricho dos pratos é o mesmo: os kebabs da casa são bem temperados, com um bom ingrediente principal e enrolados no pão armênio fininho. O de kafta (R$ 28) vem com carne, cebola e tomate grelhados, coalhada e sumac (tempero de sabor ácido, que lembra limão). Também é possível pedir espetos no prato com salada. O falafel com salada tunisiana (R$ 27) acompanha homus, molho taratour (de tahine) e falafel. Pertinho do restaurante, outro espaço pequeno, discreto e barato é o Bar do Palmeirense, tocado por uma família fanática pelo time. No ambiente simples, lotado de fotos de jogadores, é possível almoçar por até R$ 30 e lembrar de tempos melhores para o alviverde. O prato mais caro, nhoque recheado com queijo, sai por R$ 24 e faz qualquer torcedor triste esquecer o desempenho no último campeonato. O local atrai todo tipo de cliente: de trabalhadores braçais que matam com facilidade o bem servido bife com ovo, arroz, feijão e salada (R$ 15) a vegetarianos descolados que ficam com a berinjela a parmegiana (R$ 16). Outro sucesso é o fígado acebolado (R$ 16). Para combinar com a comidinha caseira –e lembrar que nem tudo o que é de qualidade está na primeira divisão–, peça uma Tubaína (R$ 4). BAR DO PALMEIRENSE ENDEREÇO r. Cayowaá, 2.281; sem telefone OUTRA SUGESTÃO filé de pescada com purê de batata (R$ 18) HORÁRIO seg. a qui., das 11h às 15h; sex., das 12h às 15h KEBAB SALONU ENDEREÇO r. Heitor Penteado, 699; tel. (11) 2373-9258 OUTRA SUGESTÃO kebab indiano (R$ 24), com frango ao curry, chutney de banana, coalhada, folhas e cebola grelhada HORÁRIO ter. a qui. e dom., das 11h30 às 22h; sex. e sáb., das 11h30 as 23h | comida |
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] | Um lote de atum vermelho foi vendido nesta segunda-feira por 4,51 milhões de ienes (US$ 37.467, cerca de R$ 100.872) no tradicional primeiro leilão do ano na feira de Tsukiji de Tóquio. Como vem sendo habitual nos últimos anos, o exemplar, um atum de 180 quilos procedente da cidade de Aomori (norte do Japão), foi adquirido por cerca de 25.000 ienes (US$ 207, em torno de R$ 558) o quilo por Kiyoshi Kimura, dono de uma conhecida rede de restaurantes de sushi. O preço está abaixo dos 7,36 milhões de ienes (R$ 164.712) que o próprio Kimura pagou no ano passado pela peça mais cobiçada do primeiro lote do ano na feira e também do número recorde de 155,4 milhões de ienes (US$ 1,29 milhão, R$ 3,47 milhão) que o empresário desembolsou em 2013. A Sushi Zanmai, rede de restaurantes de Kimura, oferecerá a carne deste atum em seus estabelecimentos a partir de hoje. O primeiro leilão anual de atum em Tsukiji se tornou nos últimos anos em um espetáculo da mídia graças à presença de Kimura, já que o quilo de atum vermelho rara vez é comprado no varejo por um preço que supere os US$ 100 (R$ 296). Segundo os especialistas, o empresário de 62 anos procura na realidade atrair o público para seus restaurantes, já que a publicidade que alcança com seus lances é muito mais econômico que contratar uma grande campanha publicitária. Fontes da feira consultadas pela agência "Kyodo" explicaram que os ânimos dos compradores se moderaram nos dois últimos anos e que é pouco provável que se repita um leilão tão fora do comum como o de 2013. | comida |
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] | Ladrões roubaram no dia de Natal US$ 300 mil em vinhos de um dos poucos restaurantes americanos com três estrelas no guia "Michelin", o The French Laundry, em Yountville, na região vinícola californiana de Napa Valley. O tenente da polícia do condado de Napa, Óscar Ortiz, explicou que entre 40 e 50 garrafas desapareceram, a maioria de Romanée-Conti. Segundo o oficial, o valor dos vinhos roubados é de "pelo menos US$ 50 mil". O jornal "Los Angeles Times" publicou que os vinhos roubados somam 300.000 dólares. O chef Thomas Keller, dono do restaurante, publicou no Twitter que confia na investigação das autoridades. Ele dirige em Nova York outro restaurante com três estrelas no "Michelin", o Per Se. O xerife de Napa publicou em sua página no Facebook que a porta da adega "foi forçada às 14h locais no dia de Natal". O French Laundry, que tem 20 anos, é um dos 13 restaurantes nos Estados Unidos com três estrelas no Michelin. | comida |
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] | Projetada pelo arquiteto Flavio de Carvalho e erguida em 1938, uma casa de 220 m² quase na esquina das alamedas Lorena e Ministro Rocha Azevedo era a maior das 16 construções da Vila Modernista –e sua única sobrevivente. A partir de março, abrigará a Casa do Sabor Amma (al. Ministro Rocha de Azevedo, 1.052, ainda sem tel.). É uma vitrine alinhada ao estilo de produção da marca: "A casa tem tudo a ver com os nossos princípios de preservação das florestas brasileiras e de patrimônios histórico-culturais. Achamos que restaurá-la e abri-la ao público seria um serviço", explica Diego Badaró, 32. Quinta geração de cacauicultores de Ilhéus (BA), o empresário investe em reflorestamento e na produção de cacau orgânico, que passa por fermentação lenta. Cerca de metade da sua produção vai para o mercado internacional, o que inclui restaurantes como o dinamarquês Noma, o melhor do mundo segundo a revista "Restaurant". No térreo da casa, uma sala ampla terá galeria de fotos das fazendas e uma cafeteria com bolos, pães e produtos feitos com cacau, como o novo chocolate com aroeira. O local também promoverá cursos e palestras. | comida |
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] | "Na época das cerejas na França, que dura um ou dois meses, recolhíamos as frutas do jardim e fazíamos a compota para comer durante o ano todo", relembra Nicolas Barbé. O chef, que passou por restaurantes de alta gastronomia em Paris e esteve à frente do Cinco Bistrô, em São Paulo, hoje armazena e vende receitas em potes de vidro. Cozido por quatro horas, o cassoulet leva "jus de canard", um caldo reduzido feito com a carcaça do pato tostada. O prato, cujo preparo começa dois dias antes de ele ficar pronto, diz Barbé, é vendido em potes para aquecer em banho-maria, por R$ 36, para duas pessoas. Esta e outras receitas, como a musse de fígado (R$ 18; 180 g), o boeuf bourguignon (R$ 36; 550 g) e a tagine de cordeiro com ameixa e amêndoa (R$ 38; 550 g), são envasadas e mantidas por três horas a 110º C. O procedimento faz com que o pote, fechado, possa ser mantido fora da geladeira por até três meses. O Petits Pots existe há cerca de um ano, com venda sob encomenda em São Paulo, mas no fim de dezembro passou a ter seus vidros no Mestre Queijeiro, em Pinheiros. Quem também se rendeu aos frascos foi Grasiele Ferrari, da No Pote, que desde dezembro vende suas compotas sob encomenda. Entre elas, estão bolos como o rainha de copas (com massa de limão-siciliano, ganache de chocolate branco e compota de morangos) e o gianduia e leche (com bolo de cacau, musse de doce de leite e pasta de avelã) –cada um sai por R$ 10 (200 g). Já o S Simplesmente concentra sua atenção na cozinha saudável: vende em potes saladas, sucos, sopas e doces –veganos e sem glúten. São opções o tabule de quinua (R$ 29,50; 450 g), a sopa de tomate com erva-doce, manjericão e pimenta-caiena (R$ 24,50; 500 g) e a musse de cacau orgânico com leite de amêndoas e tâmara (R$ 15,50). "Eu como direto da embalagem", conta o empresário francês Charles Piriou (ex-sócio do P.J. Clarke's). Segundo ele, há mais vantagens: o pote de vidro, além de conservar bem, permite a visualização do produto. No Salada Urbana, as receitas podem combinar folhas, queijos, frutas, grãos e legumes em porções com peso entre 170 g e 380 g (a depender da salada), cada pote por R$ 19,90. Há também massa integral, com molho sugo ou branco (400 g). Em 2015, entram no cardápio (on-line) frango e peixe. É possível fazer assinatura com entregas de duas refeições por dia, para cinco dias da semana (R$ 760), três dias (R$ 456) ou dois dias (R$ 312). NO POTE O QUÊ bolos em camadas de massa e creme CONTATO tel. (11) 96401-6574; facebook.com/nopoteoficial ONDE é preciso buscar na House of Food (r. Dr. Virgílio de Carvalho Pinto, 47, Pinheiros) PETITS POTS O QUÊ receitas francesas (molhos, cozidos e patês) CONTATO tel. (11) 99376-3788; [email protected] ONDE entrega na capital paulista com taxa de R$ 30 S SIMPLESMENTE O QUÊ petiscos, sucos, saladas, sopas e sobremesas veganas e sem glúten CONTATO tel. (11) 2985-9603; ssimplesmente.com.br ONDE entrega na capital paulista com taxa de R$ 25 (gratuita para compras a partir de R$ 150) SALADA URBANA O QUÊ saladas e massas ao sugo ou com molho branco CONTATO tel. (11) 99222-7064; saladaurbana.com.br ONDE entrega na Grande São Paulo com taxa de R$ 10 | comida |
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] | São Paulo começa o ano de 2015 com casas novas. Uma das primeiras inaugurações é a do chef Diego Belda, que abre na semana que vem o Goya, no mesmo ponto da Vila Madalena onde funcionava o Rothko (r. Wisard, 88). A nova casa deve resgatar o conceito original do local fechado em setembro: ter uma pegada mais de restaurante do que de lanchonete. O forte do cardápio serão os bocados, definidos como minipratos. As porções, com cerca de 250 gramas, custarão entre R$ 25 e R$ 35. Entre as opções, alguns clássicos do Rothko –caso do porco bebinho, uma costela suína marinada em caipirinha– e novidades como a lula grelhada com beterraba, creme de wasabi e leite de coco. Haverá espaço para salumeria e queijos artesanais. Belda continua fazendo hambúrgueres no projeto Born to Grill, churrasqueira itinerante usada em eventos. A chef Angelita Gonzaga, que deixou o Garimpos do Interior em fevereiro de 2014, volta à cozinha de um restaurante em casa própria, ainda sem nome, na Pompeia. Depois de viajar pelo Sul e pelo Sudeste pesquisando sabores em acampamentos, hospedagens e restaurantes, Angelita reuniu receitas de cozinha campeira (do campo, do Sul), tropeira (do século 18, pesquisada especificamente em Santa Catarina) e caipira (do interior paulista). A casa, que deve abrir em março, terá disco de arado para preparar carnes e fogão a lenha para cafés caipiras. O cozinheiro Luiz Campiglia, do Paribar, no centro da cidade, também está buscando registros antigos da cozinha para abrir sua segunda casa, em março: o Duco, vizinho ao bar na República. Para resgatar elementos da cultura da cidade de São Paulo, o cardápio vai reunir receitas tradicionais a outras incorporadas por paulistanos. No cardápio haverá receitas como o arroz de cupim, com a carne cozida por horas, e o sanduíche de churrasco grego no pão francês. Além de almoço executivo, um bar no porão vai servir drinques clássicos e autorais. Em Pinheiros, há duas novidades. Os sócios do restaurante Nou vão abrir na mesma rua (Ferreira de Araújo) a lanchonete Mano, em março. Com balcão e sem garçons, terá sanduíches como o de abobrinha com queijo de cabra e o de pernil assado. Em abril, é a vez do Negroni: bar de coquetéis na rua vizinha (Padre Carvalho). Paulo Sousa, um dos sócios do Nou, uniu-se a outros empresários para montar a casa. Elementos do bar devem remeter à Florença dos anos 1920, cenário em que o drinque teria sido criado. Além de versões da bebida, deve haver pizzas e outras comidinhas feitas no forno a lenha. OUTRAS PROMESSAS DE ABERTURA EM 2015 PADOCA DO MANÍ A padaria dos donos do Maní será vizinha ao restaurante (r. Joaquim Antunes, 138). Previsão começo de janeiro MANIOCA Na Livraria Cultura do shopping Iguatemi, a nova casa da dupla Helena Rizzo e Daniel Redondo terá cozinha casual Previsão final de março EATALY A marca, trazida pelo grupo St. Marche, terá mercado e restaurantes, seguindo o modelo da rede italiana Previsão estava programado para fim de janeiro, mas foi adiado PITICO Do dono do Pita Kebab, o espaço (r. Guaicui, 61, lgo. da Batata) terá contêineres com sanduíches, drinques, cervejas e venda de produtos orgânicos Previsão 2ª quinzena de jan. MEATS A primeira filial da lanchonete será aberta nos Jardins (esquina da r. Dr. Melo Alves com al. Lorena), no lugar do Rockets Previsão 3ª semana de janeiro O QUE FECHOU EM 2014 Biondi > virou It Sushi Girarrosto* > pode virar Italy Marcelino Pan Y Vino* Nama Baru* D'Olivino > virou Paris 6 Porto* O Pote* Santovino > virou L'Entrecôte d'Olivier *imóvel ainda desocupado | comida |
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] | Pingado. Pão na chapa. Eis uma dupla típica do café da manhã do paulistano. Mas como é a primeira refeição em cada região do país, que distingue o Norte do Sul? De acordo com o professor de cozinha brasileira do Senac Ricardo Frugoli, o regionalismo presente em cada cardápio depende da disponibilidade de ingredientes. "No Norte, por exemplo, o caboclo consome a pupunha não só no café da manhã, mas também durante o dia. Quando acaba a disponibilidade, acaba o uso", conta. Já o paranaense pode nunca ter ouvido falar no bacuri, fruto de polpa branca e sabor adocicado,usado em bolos e sucos, também do Norte. Mas certamente conhece o tucum, um coquinho de palmeira da mata atlântica que serve de base para sucos. Mesmo com toda a variedade de alimentos, um deles é onipresente praticamente em todo o país -a mandioca, ou "rainha do Brasil", como definiu o historiador Luís da Câmara Cascudo (1898-1986). "É um alimento-base do brasileiro, ao lado do milho. O índio levou a mandioca da Amazônia para o restante do país, por isso o ingrediente se manifesta em diversos pratos", afirma Frugoli. As receitas que marcam cada região ainda ganham influência dos variados imigrantes. Caso dos alemães, que levaram a cuca (espécie de pão doce) para o Sul, e dos escravos africanos, que introduziram o mungunzá (canjica) à mesa do brasileiro. Os itens do café da manhã ainda têm forte relação com os hábitos cotidianos. Para quem trabalha na roça, por exemplo, tomar um café reforçado ajuda a suportar o trabalho pesado. Por isso a presença constante de carnes de porco e de sol, feijão e embutidos, ovos e queijos nessas mesas. Para retratar variados cafés da manhã, o "Comida" conversou com chefs das cinco regiões do país, que falaram de receitas e costumes de seus Estados. | comida |
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] | Retomando, cautelosamente, a busca por novos restaurantes, deparo-me no bairro de Moema com duas casas separadas por poucos quarteirões, diferentes no tamanho, na proposta, na comida, mas com um curioso ponto em comum: pertencem a dois estrangeiros encarcerados em seus restaurantes pela Covid-19. Cárcere aliviado pelas mulheres brasileiras que também prendem a atenção deles por aqui.A Casa Manzano é misto de pequeno restaurante italiano com pinta de bistrô e sotaque argentino, dado pelo proprietário Mariano Manzano, um portenho de 64 anos que já vivia no Brasil, mas dedicado a sua editora de revistas customizadas, tornada inativa com a pandemia.O Barcelos também é diferente, uma frangaria em nada parecida com as galeterias brasileiras: seus frangos na brasa têm temperos marcantes, fruto de marinadas e molhos que lembram sabores picantes dos países africanos de colonização portuguesa.Foram trazidos por Konstantino Mazzis, 64, empresário de múltiplas origens: filho de gregos recém-chegados ao Brasil, ele nasceu no Rio de Janeiro mas deixou o país aos oito anos, rumando para a África do Sul, onde vive. Só retornaria ao Brasil 52 anos depois, em 2017, com planos de abrir uma filial de sua rede de frangos grelhados.A pedido da reportagem, ambos se encontraram para um almoço, primeiro atiçando o paladar com empanadas na Casa Manzano; depois atacando o frango da Barcelos (nos dois casos, usando as mãos). Ali contaram suas histórias.Manzano já morava por aqui. Desde 2001, dividia-se entre Buenos Aires e um flat em São Paulo —até conhecer uma brasileira e casar no ano passado.Ele já tivera dois restaurantes —na Argentina e no Uruguai— entre 1996 e 1998. “No ano passado, comecei a planejar um pequeno bistrô para, quem sabe, me ocupar no futuro, como uma aposentadoria”, diz ele.“Mas com a pandemia, o plano B de vida virou plano AAA+A”, brinca, referindo-se à casa que abriu em setembro, em pleno vendaval.No caso de Konstantino, dono da rede de frangarias fundada em 1994, com 148 casas em 19 países, o plano era abrir uma filial aqui, mas seguir dirigindo de Pretória, onde vive. “Antes eu tinha bar, hamburgueria, cada um de um jeito, até perceber que era mais simples ter um restaurante só, cujo formato pudesse ser replicado”, explica.Após algumas vindas ao Brasil, decidiu abrir a Barcelos em Moema, com sócios locais. Verdade que também conheceu uma brasileira pela internet, que encontrou pessoalmente no Brasil, e hoje é sua noiva.Em março deste ano, veio para passar o Carnaval com ela. Ficou preso aqui desde então. O restaurante abriu em julho, primeiro com delivery.Para os brasileiros, ver os dois gringos forçados a se dedicar a seus restaurantes tem sido lucro.A Casa Manzano tem sua originalidade ao combinar pratos italianos (burrata com tomatinhos doces e pesto; gnocchi de batata, molho de tomate e crocante de alho) com toques argentinos: as empanadas (a tradicional, de carne; a humita, de milho) têm massa delicada e recheios fartos e saborosos, e não poderia faltar o bife de chorizo (mas com risoto...).“Temos que dar um toque brasileiro: as empanadas vêm acompanhadas de molho de pimenta, à parte, e uma saladinha, coisas que jamais acontecem na Argentina”, diz ele —sem falar da trilha sonora de bossa-nova no ambiente.Já a Barcelos —cuja marca é um galo, símbolo da cidade portuguesa homônima— trouxe um sabor condimentado a São Paulo. “O frango é uma carne barata e popular na África do Sul”, diz Konstantino.“Esse sabor condimentado é típico de Moçambique, e foi levado para lá pelos portugueses, que usavam sua pimenta peri-peri. Eu introduzi na África do Sul e fez sucesso.”“O segredo é a marinada: o frango fica embebido pelo tempero que eu desenvolvi, dentro de uma máquina a vácuo que expande os poros da carne.”Um processo eficiente: além de introduzir o sabor, também torna o frango mais suculento —ele não resseca quando vai para a grelha, como se constata nas asinhas servidas de entrada, ou na espetada de sobrecoxas (um vistoso espeto servido suspenso).Todos os molhos, sem pimenta ou com graus diferentes de picância, são preparados na África do Sul, de onde são distribuídos para todas as filiais do mundo.Kosta está em busca de um voo para casa, provavelmente fazendo escalas em piruetas pelo mundo. Mas mesmo quando conseguir viajar, o Barcelos fica.A Casa Manzano terá o mesmo destino: além dos planos de retomar sua editora, o proprietário acaba de ter um filho brasileiro, e daqui não sairá tão cedo.Casa Manzano - r. Graúna, 189, Moema. Ter. a sex.: 10h30 às 22h; sáb.: 8h30 às 22h; dom.: 8h30 às 17hBarcelos - r. Canário, 544, Moema. Ter. a sáb.: 11h30 às 15h30 (16h30 no sáb.) e 18h30 às 22h; dom.: 11h30 às 17h30 | comida |
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] | Morreu, aos 92 anos, na madrugada desta quinta-feira (4), Mario Tatini, fundador de uma das mais tradicionais casas de comida de São Paulo, o Restaurante Tatini. A morte, segundo seu neto Thiago, foi por causas naturais.A família italiana Tatini é conhecida pela forte tradição gastronômica há mais de um século. Casimiro Tatini, avô de Mario, abriu o primeiro restaurante da família, o Antico Fattore, em Firenze, na Itália, em 1910. Décadas depois, em 1983, Mario abriu o próprio restaurante em São Paulo, onde morava desde 1954. Após fazer sucesso entre os paulistas, o estabelecimento italiano inspirou a autora Teresa Cristófani Barreto a escrever o livro "Receita de Mario Tatini", publicado em 2004, que narra as experiências gastronômicas de quatro gerações da família no Brasil e em países europeus e africanos.Há dois anos, Thiago também decidiu seguir a tradição familiar e abriu o restaurante Casimiro, na Alameda Santos.Mario Tatini deixa a mulher Gisela, quatro filhos e quatro netos. O velório acontece nesta quinta, às 14h, no Cemitério de Congonhas, em São Paulo. | comida |
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] | Quando se trata de vinho, o mais importante é que ele seja uma fonte de prazer, diz Manoel Beato, sommelier do restaurante Fasano há 28 anos e um dos maiores especialistas na bebida do país.Para atingir esse objetivo, não é preciso consumir apenas vinhos caros e ter uma taça exclusiva para cada variedade. O melhor é provar vários tipos da bebida, em copos e taças de formatos diversos, que se tenha em casa, até encontrar a combinação que seja mais agradável ao olfato e paladar de cada um.Segundo o sommelier, é possível encontrar bons vinhos a partir de R$ 40, em geral, e a quarentena é um período propício para degustar a bebida com atenção. “Às vezes, quando bebemos em um jantar com muita gente, não prestamos tanta atenção quanto quando estamos em casa”, afirmou à repórter da Folha Marília Miragaia, no Ao Vivo em Casa desta sexta (24).Para quem está passando o período de isolamento social sozinho, não é preciso se preocupar em tomar uma garrafa inteira de uma vez. Beato explica que os vinhos podem, sim, ser armazenados depois de abertos.A melhor opção para guardar as garrafas abertas é a geladeira, mesmo que se tenha adega em casa. “Quanto mais jovem o vinho, mais tempo ele dura aberto na geladeira, e os brancos resistem mais do que os tintos”, afirma.Os brancos conseguem aguentar até uma semana no refrigerador. “Os puristas dizem que não é o mesmo vinho, porque ele perde nuances a cada dia, mas ainda é gostoso”, diz.Na hora de beber, basta tirar as garrafas da geladeira com antecedência para que o vinho chegue à temperatura mais adequada para ser servido. No caso dos tintos, isso fica entre 16 e 22ºC, enquanto os brancos são consumidos entre 7 e 13ºC.Encontrar o vinho ideal no mercado não é tarefa fácil. Beato compara o processo a chegar em uma biblioteca e ter que escolher um livro sem conhecer o autor e sem poder folhear o volume. Quando não há prova, o jeito é se fiar no nome do produtor, na região em que a bebida foi feita e consultar vendedores e guias especializados, na internet ou em revistas.Nessa situação, o sommelier também aconselha a optar por vinhos mais jovens, da safra de 2017 para frente para os brancos e só um pouco mais antigas para os tintos, e a ficar atento à temperatura da loja: se for muito quente, é sinal de que os vinhos não são armazenados corretamente, o que pode interferir na qualidade da bebida.E vale também prestar mais atenção nos vinhos nacionais. Além dos já famosos espumantes —"os melhores da América do Sul, e concorremos com a Argentina e o Chile”—, o sommelier do Fasano diz se surpreender com os tintos produzidos no Brasil. Os brancos também são uma surpresa recente para ele. “Há 15 anos, havia apenas cinco bons brancos nacionais, mas cada vez provo mais vinhos brancos de qualidade", afirma. O Ao Vivo em Casa, série de lives da Folha, é transmitido no site do jornal e também em seu canal no YouTube, onde é possível mandar perguntas para os entrevistados.Às sextas, Comida, Turismo e Ilustrada se revezam nas lives às 17h, para ouvir especialistas e trazer histórias e dicas de gastronomia, viagens e cultura durante a quarentena —e ajudar a se planejar para o que virá depois desse período.Segunda-feira PoderTerça-feira FolhinhaQuarta-feira SaúdeQuinta-feira Mercado e Painel S.A.Sexta-feira Ilustrada, Turismo e Comida | comida |
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] | "A ficha ainda não caiu”, admite o chef brasileiro Raphael Rego, mesmo 24 horas depois do anúncio de que seu restaurante em Paris obteve a primeira estrela no Guia Michelin.“Estou feliz, honrado. É um sonho de todo cozinheiro um dia fazer parte deste guia, ainda mais como estrangeiro”, acrescenta.A recompensa veio no momento em que o carioca festeja dez anos na capital francesa. Raphael começou na cozinha de restaurantes estrelados no Michelin antes de apostar no seu próprio empreendimento.Há quatro anos fundou o restaurante Oka, no 9° distrito da capital, com o propósito de oferecer ao paladar francês uma mistura de produtos brasileiros originais. Atualmente, sua cozinha trabalha com receitas que utilizam 80 ingredientes nativos do Brasil, importados direto para o restaurante. “Meu primeiro objetivo era apresentar a culinária e os ingredientes brasileiros para os franceses, colocar a cozinha brasileira em um ótimo patamar, igual a um muito bom restaurante francês”, afirma.“Nenhum chef pode dizer que isso não é um objetivo, mas o meu principal era apresentar a gastronomia brasileira, e isso eles entenderam, que eu queria mostrar minha cultura brasileira e misturar à cultura francesa”, diz o carioca.Desde 2014, Raphael investe no que considera uma versão contemporânea da cozinha brasileira. Em quatro anos, ele evoluiu para o que chama de conceito Oka 2.0.Sensível aos sabores e originalidade sobretudo da região amazônica, o chef desenvolveu parcerias com produtores locais e ONGs como o Instituto Socioambiental para conseguir viabilizar economicamente a exploração de produtos e conquistar as autorizações e selos necessários para penetrar nos mercados europeu e francês.Além de viagens ao Brasil, ele também trouxe produtores e até índios ianomâmis para conhecer seu restaurante parisiense, que se transformou numa espécie de embaixada gastronômica.“A preocupação é apresentar essa herança, realmente mostrar tudo o que a Amazônia pode oferecer para o mundo. A cozinha brasileira não pode ficar só no país”, argumenta.O orgulho de ostentar sua primeira estrela no Michelin é dividida com os que o fizeram entender mais dos ingredientes da rica gastronomia brasileira. “Devo tudo aos produtores, aos índios que quando vieram à França me ensinaram muitas coisas”, defende.Na busca permanente em valorizar suas raízes, Raphael elegeu a mandioca, “o produto mais brasileiro”, como a base de suas inspirações.A extração de sabores e diversidade com a utilização da mandioca rendeu pratos originais como um mil folhas salgado ou uma receita na qual o produto cozido em baixa temperatura foi agregado à rapadura e ao açafrão.O chef também apostou em uma releitura do prato típico do país, a feijoada. Ele está convencido de que sua versão, com o uso de um feijão fermentado em baixa temperatura durante dez dias, contribuiu para os responsáveis do Michelin decidirem pela atribuição da estrela ao restaurante. A recompensa também premia sua estratégia de harmonizar produtos brasileiros com ingredientes característicos da gastronomia francesa, o que rendeu composições saborosas. “É extraordinário ter no prato um feijão manteiguinha de Santarém e de Belém ao lado de aves da região de Périgord, e até trabalhar um foie gras com tucupi”, diz.“Minha obrigação de brasileiro na França hoje é não me esquecer de onde vim. É minha maneira e minha contribuição mostrar a riqueza de meu país, os nossos produtores, a Amazônia, sem esquecer o produtor francês. Esse era o meu maior desejo”, afirma.Mesmo se a ficha ainda não caiu, Raphael garante que a primeira estrela no Michelin não irá mudar sua concepção de cozinha e nem se sente mais pressionado pela maior visibilidade e expectativa gerada pela presença no guia aos olhos e aos paladares mais exigentes. “A pressão existe desde que abri o Oka. A pressão é de poder apresentar as culinárias brasileiras na França. O que muda? Só a alegria. Um cozinheiro feliz cozinha feliz. Essa estrela veio brindar a cultura e a amizade franco-brasileira.”Seu próximo projeto é viabilizar o cacau produzido por tribos ianomâmis. | comida |