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sequence | sentence
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] | Será realizada, nesta terça-feira (21), a sexta edição do Encontro de Vinhos Off. O evento vai contar com cerca de 30 produtores nacionais e internacionais e importadoras, como Casa Valduga, Expand e Vinos & Vinos. Visitantes poderão degustar os vinhos em exposição, conversar com os produtores e assistir a palestras sobre a bebida. O preço dos rótulos deve variar de R$ 30 a R$ 600 –muitos terão descontos, em torno de 20%. Além de produtores e importadores, o evento terá a participação de food trucks e expositores como o empório Mestre Queijeiro, de queijos artesanais brasileiros. O encontro será na Casa da Fazenda Morumbi, na zona sul de São Paulo, e o ingresso custa R$ 80. Depois, segue para Ribeirão Preto, Campinas (SP), Belo Horizonte e Curitiba. Também na semana que vem será realizada a feira ExpoVinis, no Expo Center Norte. ENCONTRO DE VINHOS OFF QUANDO terça-feira (21) ONDE Casa da Fazenda Morumbi: av. Morumbi, 5.594 QUANTO R$ 80 | comida |
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] | O chef Homaro Cantu, conhecido por usar a ciência para criar experiências gastronômicas únicas em seu restaurante Moto, em Chicago, morreu, em um caso de aparente suicídio, segundo fontes da polícia disseram nesta quarta-feira (15). Cantu, 38, foi encontrado morto na terça à noite, segundo a polícia, em um prédio na zona noroeste da cidade, onde ele planejava abrir, até o final do ano, um bar e cervejaria chamado Crooked Fork. Sua morte ocorre menos de mês depois de ele ter sido processado por um dos investidores de seu restaurante, que tem uma estrela "Michelin". A autópsia estava marcada para esta quarta, segundo as autoridades. Cantu trabalhou para o famoso chef de Chicago Charlie Trotter antes de se tornar ele mesmo um chef e abrir o restaurante Moto. A casa era conhecida por usar de uma abordagem "high-tech" e extravagante em seus pratos –que incluíam cardápios comestíveis. Cantu usava lasers, armas de feixes de partículas, gás hélio e nitrogênio líquido para cozinhar. O site do Moto diz que sua "visão de gastronomia pode, algumas vezes, parecer uma nota tirada de uma obra de ficção científica". Cantu, que passou por quase 50 casas da cota oeste americana antes de se mudar para Chicago, disse à Reuters em 2008 que queria fazer com que as pessoas pensassem de forma diferente sobre a comida. "Quando as pessoas veem esses produtos que faço, devem se dar conta que o que acontece aqui não é só um cara fazendo uma comida extravagante", disse. "Estamos fazendo coisas que vão mudar o mundo". A morte de Cantu reforça a pressão a que chefs celebridades estão submetidos hoje, em um momento em que comensais esperam constantes inovações. Trotter morreu em 2013, aos 54 anos, de um aneurisma. O chef foi processado no mês passado pelo investidor Alexander Espalin, segundo os arquivos das autoridades do condado de Cook. Espalin acusou Cantu de usar a conta corrente do restaurante de forma pessoal, com viagens e o desenvolvimento de produtos patenteados. | comida |
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] | Dominique Ansel, criador do "cronut", híbrido de donut e croissant que foi sensação há dois anos, está expandindo seu sucesso com novas lojas em Nova York e Tóquio –e sobremesas customizadas. O pâtissier de 37 anos teve um 2014 excepcional: a Fundação James Beard o nomeou como o melhor chef de sobremesas dos Estados Unidos, e ele lançou seu primeiro livro, "Dominique Ansel: The Secret Recipes" (Dominique Ansel: receitas secretas). Nascido em Beauvais, na França, e radicado em Nova York desde 2006, o chef falou com a Reuters sobre suas novas casas e o que o inspira para criar sobremesas. O que você planeja para a segunda unidade nova-iorquina de sua padaria Dominique Ansel Kitchen, que deve abrir nesta primavera? Dominique Ansel - A ideia é fazer sobremesas sob demanda. Vamos mudar um pouco a organização de uma padaria tradicional e ter estações; cada estação terá seu próprio chef finalizando as sobremesas. Também haverá sobremesas pré-prontas? Cerca de 70% do nosso menu deve ser de pedidos por encomenda. Quando se trata de sobremesas, algumas ficam melhores depois de um ou dois dias. E como será sua padaria em Tóquio? Similar à loja que temos na Spring Street, em Nova York. Também planejo criar uma linha de sobremesas que explore a cultura japonesa. Você não poderá prova-las em qualquer outro lugar. Você já se cansou de falar sobre o "cronut"? O "cronut" é uma criação fantástica, que abriu as portas para muitas coisas. No ano passado, em um evento de caridade para combater a fome em Nova York, com 24 cronuts arrecadamos mais de US$ 100 mil. Mudamos o sabor a cada mês e tentamos mantê-lo divertido, excitante. Quantas pessoas ainda esperam por "cronuts" por dia? Cerca de cem pessoas ficam na nossa porta todas as manhãs antes de abrirmos. Entregamos madeleines frescas e chocolate quente enquanto eles esperam. Quero que as pessoas tenham um bom proveito aqui. Qual é sua primeira memória da cozinha? Fazer um bolo de iogurte usando o pote de iogurte para medir a farinha, um clássico francês. Qual sua filosofia na cozinha? Realmente entregar às pessoas uma conexão com a comida, uma conexão emocional. | comida |
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] | A Associação de Cozinheiros da Bósnia anunciou, nesta terça-feira (14), que tentará preparar, na próxima sexta-feira, 4.086 litros de uma sopa tradicional –o que corresponderá a 15 mil porções–, para entrar no livro dos recordes ("Guinness Book"). A preparação do prato, "Begova corba" (sopa de Bey), que acontecerá em uma praça do centro da capital bósnia, começará às 6h e deve durar até as 14h, segundo informou em entrevista coletiva em Sarajevo o presidente da Associação, Nermin Hodzic. Para atingir o objetivo de criar a sopa tradicional bósnia mais abundante do mundo, serão utilizados mil quilos de carne de frango e 200 quilos de cenoura, entre muitos outros ingredientes. A associação bósnia foi criada em 2007 com a missão de preservar a gastronomia tradicional do país balcânico. Hodzic considerou que o que é oferecido agora aos turistas na Bósnia-Herzegovina como comida tradicional se reduziu a poucos pratos, e advogou para que sejam devolvidos à mesa "os menus de há cem anos" que podem ser vistos nos museus. "Temos muito mais para oferecer (...) Um italiano não estará contente se servimos massa, devemos mostrar com orgulho nossas riquezas", indicou. | comida |
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] | A atriz americana Gwyneth Paltrow aceitou o desafio de gastar no máximo US$ 29 (R$ 89) em comida durante uma semana para participar de uma campanha de combate à fome, informou o jornal "Daily News". A campanha é organizada pela ONG Food Bank for New York City e é dirigida pelo chef Mario Batali, que também convidou outras personalidades a se juntarem à iniciativa. A ideia, segundo o jornal, é mostrar o quão difícil é viver com o que com a atual cota de vales de comida, entregue pelo governo em um programa de assistência alimentar a pessoas de baixa renda e que permite comprar até US$ 29 por semana em mercadorias. A ONG critica o fato de que o Congresso dos Estados Unidos tenha cortado o valor dos vales de comida duas vezes desde 2013, o que aumentou o número de pessoas que têm que recorrer a refeitórios de organizações de caridade. O site oficial da Food Bank for New York City confirma que Paltrow se juntou à iniciativa e a própria atriz publicou no Twitter uma foto que mostra os poucos alimentos que podem ser comprados com US$ 29 semanais. "Vou me colocar em seu lugar para ver até onde chego", disse a atriz, referindo-se à decisão de aderir à iniciativa. | comida |
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] | Para levar à boca uma pizza napolitana primeiro é preciso cozinhá-la e isto requer seguir passos que seus artesãos mais apaixonados elevaram à categoria de arte e que pode chegar a ser parte do Patrimônio Cultural Imaterial da Humanidade. A denominada "arte dos pizzaiolos napolitanos" foi recentemente incluída na lista de candidaturas que serão analisadas pelos especialistas da Organização das Nações Unidas para a Educação, a Ciência e a Cultura (Unesco) em um longo processo de seleção que não terminará antes de 2016. Mas, na cidade de Nápoles, no sul da Itália, esses artesãos da cozinha já podem comemorar ter superado o primeiro crivo, realizado em nível nacional, enquanto buscam o reconhecimento mundial a essa tradição gastronômica. "É um saber transmitido de geração em geração", disse Claudio Sebillo, diretor da associação dos pizzaiolos napolitanos, que impulsiona agora a coleta de um milhão de assinaturas depois das 300.000 apresentadas no ano passado para respaldar a iniciativa. Com orgulho, Sebillo comenta que a arte de fazer pizza é uma "habilidade inimitável", que, ao contrário do que ocorre em outros lugares, em Nápoles mantém seu espírito artesanal tanto na preparação da massa como no momento de lançar mão dela e fazê-la voar para estendê-la. Como bom purista na matéria, Sebillo desconfia dos que não cozinham a pizza à moda napolitana: em fornos que estejam a cerca de 450 graus centígrados e por noventa segundos. Se não se faz assim, "fica mais crocante", afirmou com certa desaprovação. Sebillo considera que "o pizzaiolo se aproxima cada vez mais à figura do chef" e que na última década o negócio da pizza, ícone da culinária italiana, ganhou força apesar da crise generalizada no setor de restaurantes. Sua expansão pelo mundo, aliás, foi um dos critérios que a Comissão Italiana para a Unesco levou em consideração para aceitar sua candidatura, explicou seu presidente, Giovanni Puglisi. "É uma candidatura muito especial, sobretudo para a Campânia (região cuja capital é Nápoles)", acrescentou Puglisi, para a qual representa uma forma de dieta "muito simples" e ao mesmo tempo um expoente de sua vida gastronômica. Segundo a especialista do Instituto Nacional da Nutrição, Laura Rossi, a pizza, entendida como massa, tomate, mozzarella e azeite, tem cerca de 350 calorias por cada cem gramas. Uma opção completa e rica em carboidratos na qual as proteínas dos cereais da pizza e do leite desse queijo se complementam, e dessa mistura sai um produto que deslumbra "o mundo todo", destacou a nutricionista. Essa tradição começou com a evolução de uma pizza marguerita, protótipo da napolitana, que, reza a lenda, foi preparada pelo pizzaiolo Raffaele Esposito em 1889 para a então rainha da Itália, Margarida de Sabóia. De suposta origem real, essa pizza é agora um dos pratos mais populares, como provam as pessoas que em Nápoles e outras cidades do mundo fazem fila a cada dia nos arredores das pizzarias por uma generosa fatia do que pode em breve se transformar em patrimônio da humanidade. | comida |
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] | A Casa Santa Luzia realizará uma semana com palestras e degustações de cerveja dos dias 13 a 18 de abril. A chamada Semana de Cervejas Especiais contará com a presença da sommelière Beatriz Ruiz, que fará uma palestra, na qual os participantes poderão provar as diferenças entre os tipos de cervejas, aprender sobre a história da bebida, harmonizações e ingredientes. A palestra, gratuita, será na terça-feira (14) e é necessário fazer a inscrição no link: http://goo.gl/forms/LbrfKRYo0w (50 vagas) As degustações ocorrem durante toda a semana, das 15h às 20h, na adega da loja. Confira abaixo a programação completa: - Degustações (diariamente, das 15h às 20h, na adega da loja): 13 de abril - Karavelle Pilsen 14 de abril - Erdinger Weissbier 15 de abril - Baden Baden Cristal 16 de abril - Wäls Santa Luzia 17 de abril - Kunstmann Torobayo 18 de abril - Schneider Weisse CASA SANTA LUZIA Endereço Al. Lorena 1471 - Jardins, São Paulo, SP. Mais santaluzia.com.br | comida |
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] | Neste domingo (12), ocorre no Minhocão a terceira edição da Benê Food des Arts. Mais de 30 food trucks e barraquinhas ocuparão o espaço do Elevado Costa e Silva das 11h às 18h. Os preços variam de R$ 3 e R$ 18 e os cardápios incluem tapioca, massas, temaki, hambúrgueres e comida típica brasileira. O evento contará também com a presença da grafiteira Nene Surreal, que fará uma pintura ao vivo. Esta edição será realizada em parceria com o coletivo Infinito Circular Ambiental, que propõe a gestão consciente de resíduos gerados durante o evento. Veja lista completa de expositores: Food trucks 55 FoodTruck Cozinha com Z Di Prima I bravo Kombine Food truck Locombia Food Truck Make and Roll Mya Gourmet Oh My Milk Shake Pirata Food Truck Tendas Acqua Vitta Arretado Food Brigadeiro Tenda de Renda Cerveje Me Chopp na Azeirona Cia do Pudim Comitiva só nois Tabão Coqvinaria Di Bari Gastronômia Italiana Dolcemme Eat street Food Engasga Gato Cachaçaria Enrolado e Granulado Brigaderia Galinhada do Corazza Geronimo Holey Crepe Icone Gastro Rock Jk Gastronômia Made in Ceará Meo Pastel Nano Doces O Ponto da Batata O Quinto Odorico Restaurante Opa Deu Bolo Ricochuelo Paleteria Sal Negro Nhoqueria Skenta Gourmet Suco é Saúde Votus Cervejaria BENÊ FOOD DES ARTS Onde Minhocão (Elevado Costa e Silva) entrada pela alça de acesso em frente a estação de metrô Marechal Deodoro Quando 12 de abril, das 11h às 18h Quanto de R$3 a R$18 | comida |
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] | O restaurante da Câmara dos Lordes do Reino Unido (que seria equivalente ao Senado brasileiro) abrirá ao público britânico pela primeira vez a partir da semana que vem. Por 35 libras esterlinas (R$ 158) –valor duas vezes maior do cobrado pelos parlamentares, de 16 libras– o público poderá consumir uma refeição de três pratos, com entrada, prato principal e sobremesa no Peers' Dining Room. O menu varia diariamente, mas metade das mesas já está reservada para as próximas semanas. O local, que costuma ser restrito inclusive à imprensa, ficará aberto do dia 14 de abril até 8 de maio, quando inicia a nova Legislatura. As atividades legislativas no Parlamento de Westminster estão suspensas em vista das campanhas eleitorais. As eleições estão previstas para 7 de maio. A decisão de abrir o restaurante ao público foi tomada com a finalidade de reduzir os custos do local que, mesmo em recesso, mantém os cozinheiros e os garçons. | comida |
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] | Em gastronomia, a França é um espelho. Quando o guia "Michelin" surgiu (1900) seu propósito era dizer aos compradores onde encontrariam pneus e gasolina ao longo das viagens. O automóvel era a novidade; o guia, as facilidades. Aos poucos, agregou-se a função de indicar onde se hospedar e comer, com conforto. Sobre quatro rodas, surgia o gourmet deambulador. Nos anos 1950, Curnonsky, principal gourmet da França, passou a fazer a seleção de restaurantes para o guia. Para ele, a cozinha regional, paraíso da boa mesa, fundamentava "a aliança entre o turismo e a gastronomia", e a eficiência turística do "Michelin" era sua garantia. Disso resultou um guia que, durante sete décadas, resumia o repertório seguro da boa mesa francesa e, por extensão, dos países amigos. Com o surgimento da revista "GaultMillau" (1972), comprometida com a "nouvelle cuisine", o guia "Michelin" sofreu seu primeiro abalo, perdendo o monopólio de público e de opinião. Mas nada que fosse grave: "GaultMillau" expressava um movimento vanguardista, restrito nos impactos; como vendia um "conceito", e não serviços automotivos, não precisava estar territorializado. Começava a diáspora da boa mesa. E, hoje, num mundo globalizado, pouco importa onde estejam os restaurantes top –se em São Paulo, Estocolmo ou Bagdá. O 50 Best armou-se como o rol dos "melhores do mundo", sendo que os próprios "conceitos" podem mudar ano a ano; cercou-se de uma mídia sem precedentes a partir de um ritual espetacular de celebração. Imediatamente se tem em mãos uma "lista", como o Nobel da gastronomia, que conquista corações e mentes de gente que vê longe e viaja de avião, não de carro. Assim, o "Michelin" nasce anacrônico aqui. É um guia de superfícies que o carro percorre, enquanto o 50 Best supõe a visitação virtual e o avião. Só isso explica que "Michelin", no Brasil, tenha se concentrado no eixo Rio-São Paulo; a falta de agilidade para lançar-se antes da Copa; além de erros geográficos de identificação culinária (o Jiquitaia não é um restaurante paraense, como ele diz...). A credibilidade de um guia está ligada à precisão das informações, à seriedade dos juízos que expressa e, sobretudo, à sua eficácia: indicar os lugares certos para as pessoas certas no tempo certo. Não é o caso. Em suas páginas, o trem parecerá sempre atrasado ou que já passou. Por que, então, abandonaríamos o "Guia Quatro Rodas"? CARLOS ALBERTO DÓRIA é sociólogo, autor de livros como "Formação da Culinária Brasileira" (ed. Três Estrelas) | comida |
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] | Não é pouca coisa: para estabelecimentos na cidade de São Paulo, há nada menos do que 26 leis determinando os avisos que devem ficar à vista da clientela. Elas vêm de todas as esferas (federal, estadual e municipal) e tratam de diversos temas: do "proibido fumar" ao "visite nossa cozinha". Muitas vezes se sobrepõem. Para desembaraçar esse emaranhado de regras, a ANR (Associação Nacional de Restaurantes) acaba de elaborar o "Guia de Sinalização Obrigatória em Bares e Restaurantes", disponível gratuitamente em www.anrbrasil.org.br. Em 47 páginas, ele esmiúça todas as leis a que estão submetidos os estabelecimentos de alimentação dos municípios de São Paulo e Rio de Janeiro e do Distrito Federal. "Dos 5.100 associados da ANR, cerca de 80% ficam nessas três localidades", diz o diretor executivo, Alberto Lyra, que adianta que as próximas praças serão Curitiba e Belo Horizonte. O guia tem surpreendido muito empresário do ramo que, até agora, se achava bem informado. Sócio da rede Rubaiyat, com cinco unidades no Brasil, Belarmino Iglesias nunca tinha ouvido falar da lei 5.602/2013, segundo a qual os endereços cariocas devem informar a existência de banheiros abertos ao público. Também desconhecia a lei 12.611/1998, que obriga os restaurantes paulistanos a dizer que têm copos descartáveis. "O setor virou uma bagunça de leis", dispara Iglesias. "Por que não se cria um totem único com tudo o que é importante informar?" Dona da franquia L'Entrecôte de Paris no Jardim Paulista, a empresária Eloisa Elena Carneiro soube que a placa afixada no banheiro sugerindo aos clientes que lavem as mãos está fora dos padrões graças a uma consultora em gestão, contratada para vistoriar a casa periodicamente. A lei 15.957/2014 determina que a placa tenha medida mínima de 29,7 cm x 21 cm, com texto em fonte arial black e corpo 48. "É uma loucura o tempo e o dinheiro que se gasta nessas adequações." Para Daniel Cañete, da cantina Montechiaro, na Bela Vista, tal aviso não tem serventia. "Na cozinha, ajuda a lembrar o funcionário da higiene. Mas, no banheiro, o cliente lava a mão se quiser." Da rede Johnny Rocket's, Antônio Augusto Ribeiro de Souza diz que algumas placas facilitaram a rotina dos lojistas. "Até pouco tempo atrás, havia quem insistisse em fumar no salão. A mensagem de proibição foi útil para a incorporação do hábito." A fiscalização não cabe a um único órgão. Algumas são assunto para o Procon, outras para a Vigilância Sanitária, ou secretarias estaduais, municipais e subprefeituras. Em alguns casos, porém, a atribuição não é de ninguém. É o que acontece com a placa dos copos descartáveis. Segundo a Secretaria das Subprefeituras de São Paulo, "a lei não atribui competência", ou seja, não determina a quem cabe fiscalizar. PUNIÇÃO As penalidades variam conforme a infração e o tamanho do estabelecimento. Não afixar o aviso de proibição da venda de bebidas alcoólicas a menores, por exemplo, rende multa a partir de R$ 2.125. Cañete diz que tem sido visitado com frequência. "Fiscais já vieram três vezes e me deram uma semana para regularizar algumas placas. E voltaram para checar." O consultor jurídico da ANR, Carlos Augusto Pinto Dias, responsável pela elaboração do guia, questiona a sobreposição de normas. No Rio, três leis –com textos diferentes– exigem avisos sobre os riscos do consumo de álcool. "Em tese, a casa é obrigada a pendurar as três placas. Mas tudo depende do bom senso do fiscal." Nem os food trucks estão livres, diz ele. "As leis não os mencionam, até porque pouco tempo atrás eles não existiam formalmente. Mas não há dúvidas de que estejam equiparados a restaurantes." * ALÉM DE PLACAS, OUTROS ITENS SÃO OBRIGATÓRIOS Estabelecimentos do setor de alimentos, em São Paulo, são obrigados, por lei, a exibir: 1. O cardápio, na entrada do local, com o preço unitário dos pratos, a consumação mínima e a taxa de serviço (lei 8.648/1977) 2. O alvará de funcionamento e o Auto de Vistoria do Corpo de Bombeiros, à vista no salão (lei 10.205/1986) | comida |
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] | Depois de 115 anos, o guia "Michelin" chega ao Brasil. A partir desta sexta (10), a edição vermelha "Rio de Janeiro & São Paulo" será vendida em bancas de jornal e livrarias. Chefs, restaurateurs e acadêmicos do setor são unânimes em afirmar que a vinda da publicação é mais um indicativo do ganho de prestígio da gastronomia brasileira. "E, pelo menos desta vez, saímos na frente dos vizinhos da América Latina", brinca o chef Alex Atala, que teve duas casas laureadas com estrelas pelo guia –D.O.M., único com duas, e Dalva e Dito, com uma. Mas será que um guia de papel, nascido em 1900, tem o mesmo peso de outrora, quando era capaz de ditar o sucesso e o fracasso de restaurantes no mundo? Em termos de credibilidade, sim, dizem os chefs ouvidos pela Folha. Já para o sociólogo Carlos Alberto Dória, a credibilidade de um guia está ligada à sua eficácia: "indicar os lugares certos para as pessoas certas no tempo certo. Não é o caso" (leia análise aqui ). "Talvez o 'Michelin' até tenha perdido um pouco da importância [diante da concorrência com blogs e prêmios internacionais]", diz Feilpe Bronze, do carioca Oro. "Mas ainda tem prestígio inegável." Rogério Fasano, cujo restaurante que leva seu sobrenome foi contemplado com uma estrela, acha o guia criterioso, mas é avesso ao 50 Best, que causa frisson com o ranking anual de restaurantes. "É patético eleger o melhor restaurante. Isso é impossível, porque são incomparáveis." Rosa Moraes, diretora da rede de universidades Laureate Brasil e jurada do 50 Best, acha o prêmio mais contemporâneo. "Quem é mais 'cool', passou a segui-lo em vez do clássico 'Michelin'." O próprio guia francês reconhece a competição com novos meios. "As pessoas podem ser 'inspetoras' e dar sua opinião, mas a gente não sabe quem elas são e que preparo elas têm. Nosso papel é ser um 'padrão ouro'", diz Michael Ellis, diretor internacional dos guias. CONSERVADOR? O guia São Paulo-Rio lista 17 casas estreladas. Para alguns, esse número é baixo. E, aliado ao fato de só um restaurante ter recebido duas estrelas (e não haver nenhum três-estrelas), indica certo "conservadorismo". "Somos conservadores mesmo. Pior seria dar uma estrela e em seis meses descobrir que não vale", diz Ellis. Josimar Melo, crítico da Folha, por outro lado, ressalta que o guia adota padrão máximo de qualidade e, portanto, a quantidade de estrelas "está de bom tamanho" (leia opinião aqui ). MICHELIN – RIO DE JANEIRO & SÃO PAULO ONDE em livrarias, bancas de jornal e lojas de conveniência QUANTO R$ 80 (304 págs.); o aplicativo é gratuito | comida |
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] | Numa churrascaria já tradicional como a Corrientes 348, na Vila Olímpia, eu não esperaria presenciar de novo aquele equívoco tão recorrente em tantas casas, resumido no seguinte diálogo: – Como o senhor deseja o ojo de bife? – Malpassado. – Olha, o ponto da casa já é beeem vermelho... Tudo errado. Não existe "ponto da casa", existe ponto de cozimento da carne, que é uma convenção sacramentada –inclusive em fotos ilustrativas– em qualquer escola de culinária do Ocidente. Segundo essa convenção –que vale para picanha na brasa, chateaubriand na frigideira, rosbife no forno, o que for–, uma carne ao ponto não é "beeem vermelha", é rosada. A malpassada é vermelha. A bem passada, acinzentada. (Fora os pontos intermediários.) Enfrento esse diálogo nonsense dezenas de vezes, e termino pedindo "então me traga ao ponto da casa, beeem vermelha" –para constatar que a carne sempre virá além do ponto, como aqui. Tanto barulho para nada. Mas a 348 não costumava dar essas derrapadas, e espero que volte à razão. Pois ela vem passando por uma transformação que prometia torná-la ainda melhor. A velha casa da Vila Olímpia, aberta em 1977, passou por uma reforma e perdeu um pouco do charme improvisado do passado, ao menos manteve a luminosidade vinda da rua e está mais confortável. O processo é concomitante à abertura de filiais pela cidade e à mudança na sociedade, com a entrada de Jair Coser, 57, um dos fundadores da rede Fogo de Chão, recentemente vendida. Na sociedade mantiveram-se as antigas proprietárias, as paulistas Ana Maria Leis, 71, e Mara Larios Santalla, 59, viúva do argentino Eduardo Santalla, idealizador da casa, que morreu no ano passado. Em seu cardápio (agora nas mãos do chef Luiz Gustavo Chagas, 28, que passou por grandes restaurantes europeus) mantêm-se os ecos argentinos em entradas como a linguiça picante e o sortido de miúdos que inclui timo, rins, tripas e chouriço de sangue. São também bem argentinos cortes como ojo de bife, bife ancho e de chorizo e, fora da grelha, um portenho bife à milanesa. Nos acompanhamentos há a presença brasileira da boa farofa com ovo e do pupunha assado, ao lado das tradicionais batatas à provençal. Há também duas opções de peixe. Ao pedir o bacalhau grelhado, vem a pergunta que, aplicada ao peixe, surpreende: "Em qual ponto?". Na dúvida, melhor pedir ao ponto. No caso, veio meio cru no centro. CORRIENTES 348 - REGULAR ENDEREÇO r. Com. Miguel Calfat, 348, Vila Olímpia; tel. (11) 3849-0348 HORÁRIO seg. a sex., das 12h às 15h30 e das 19h à 0h; sáb., das 12h à 0h; dom., das 12h às 18h AMBIENTE a reforma tirou um pouco do charme, mas manteve a vista da rua e deu mais conforto SERVIÇO esforçado VINHOS destaque para os argentinos, numa carta com pouca informação e preços altos PREÇOS entradas, de R$ 8 a R$ 45; pratos, de R$ 45 (meia porção) a R$ 133 (para dois); acompanhamentos, de R$ 11 a R$ 29; sobremesas, de R$ 14 a R$ 28 | comida |
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] | Falta de tempo ou preguiça não justificam mais geladeira ou despensa vazias. Por um valor mensal é possível receber, na porta de casa, seleções de produtos variados, como condimentos, bebidas ou cortes de carne -em uma espécie de uma assinatura de jornal ou revista, mas de comida. Neste ano, a Associação Brasileira de Clubes de Assinatura lançou um site que organiza opções de pacotes, não só gastronômicos. Ali é possível checar preços e informações básicas de cada clube, com as instruções de como se inscrever. O portal reúne, por exemplo, pacotes de produtos saudáveis de Minas Gerais, pães, cafés e cervejas. Fora do site (clubesdeassinatura.com.br), existem ainda assinaturas segmentadas -como a do Clube Bombay, só de temperos- ou amplas, como a Delicaterie, que inclui "produtos variados", como petiscos e bebidas. Confira uma seleção de clubes gastronômicos e o que cada um deles oferece. INGREDIENTE EM CASA Saiba mais sobre treze kits para comer ou beber BEBIDAS BEER PACK Entrega dois ou quatro rótulos de cerveja ao mês. O kit acompanha um copo e um guia de degustação QUANTO R$ 49,90 ou R$ 79,90 + frete ONDE beerpack.com.br; tel. (41) 3014-3414 GRÃO GOURMET O assinante recebe, por mês, 250 g, 500 g ou 1 kg de um microlote de café torrado (moído ou em grãos) QUANTO de R$ 23,50 a R$ 53 + frete ONDE graogourmet.com; tel. (11) 2372-4721 HAVE A NICE BEER Elege dois rótulos de cerveja e entrega até oito garrafas por mês QUANTO R$ 71,90 (quatro garrafas); R$ 107,82 (seis) e R$ 143,76 (oito) + frete ONDE haveanicebeer.com.br; 0800-028-2337 WINE.COM.BR Tem três tipos de assinatura, com vinhos mais versáteis ou sofisticados. Entrega até seis garrafas de cada categoria QUANTO de R$ 28 a R$ 115 por garrafa + frete ONDE wine.com.br; tel. 0800-602-9463 * TEMPEROS CLUBE BOMBAY O assinante pode optar pelos planos "especiarias", "pimentas" ou o que combina os dois. Os três temperos são entregues com uma receita QUANTO de R$ 50 a R$ 75 (frete grátis) ONDE bombayherbsspices.com.br; tel. (11) 3302-3999 THE SPICE CLUB Envia três dentre 2.000 especiarias do mundo todo mensalmente. Com o kit, são enviadas receitas. QUANTO R$ 84,90 (frete grátis) ONDE spiceclub.com.br * VARIADOS DELICATERIE Cada caixa reúne quatro ou cinco itens, como temperos, petiscos, bebidas e doces, ou utensílios de cozinha QUANTO R$ 69,90 + frete (grátis para a região Sul) ONDE delicaterie.com.br BISTROBOX Reúne cinco produtos surpresa, com fichas explicativas que ajudam no uso do ingrediente QUANTO R$ 59,90 + frete (R$ 9,90 para São Paulo e R$ 14,90 para demais localidades) ONDE bistrobox.com.br HEALTHY BOX Entrega de sete a dez produtos avaliados por nutricionistas. Eles podem ser, por exemplo, massas, chás, castanhas e biscoitos QUANTO R$ 49,90 (frete grátis para Sudeste, Sul e Centro-Oeste) ONDE healthybox.com.br; tel. (31) 2573-0204 SOCIEDADE DA CARNE Oferece cortes especiais de carne, entregues em embalagem térmica. Pode-se optar por receber de dois a seis quilos de carne a cada mês QUANTO em média R$ 54,90 o quilo (depende do corte) + frete (grátis para quem receber seis quilos) ONDE sociedadedacarne.com.br; tel. (11) 3791-1757 OH! MINAS Elege de dois a cinco produtos mineiros, de quitutes a artesanatos, em três tipos de plano: pode ser só de doces, sem álcool ou diversificado QUANTO de R$ 34,90 a R$ 76,90 + frete ONDE ohminas.com.br; tel. (31) 3263-4077 FAROFA.LA A caixa tem cinco petiscos, como biju, cookies e castanhas. O cliente pode fazer sua escolha em uma lista de produtos, que inclui opções sem lactose ou sem glúten QUANTO R$ 59,90 + frete ONDE farofala.com; tel. (11) 3042-5556 LES GOURMANDS CLUB O clube se inspira em uma região do mundo para montar cardápios que podem incluir entrada, prato, sobremesa e vinho para duas ou quatro pessoas. A caixa vem com os ingredientes e instruções para o preparo das receitas QUANTO de R$ 120 a R$ 600 + frete ONDE lesgourmandsclub.com tel. (11) 3022-2855 | comida |
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] | O número crescente de izakayas (bares japoneses) em São Paulo está sendo a porta de entrada para os paulistanos conhecerem um pouco mais a cozinha japonesa das panelas e da grelha, e não somente a dos peixes crus. O mais recente exemplo é o izakaya Matsu, em Pinheiros. Se no Japão o sushi é uma exceção, servido em casas especializadas às quais se vai de vez em quando, aqui no Brasil ele virou sinônimo de comida japonesa. E mesmo nos restaurantes em que é apenas um item do extenso cardápio, é a ele que os paulistanos devotam atenção. Mas a cozinha quente japonesa é rica em receitas, técnicas e detalhes. E se no Japão os izakayas são de fato bares, onde mais se bebe do que se come, aqui são procurados (pelos brasileiros) principalmente para comer. É a chance de mergulhar nessa cozinha pouco conhecida. O Matsu é um novo representante desta variedade, mas não é exatamente um principiante. É verdade que seus proprietários -os irmãos Lucio, 50, e Sergio Ouba, 46-, nascidos no Paraná e com quase 30 anos passados no Japão, não tiveram restaurantes antes. Mas a mãe deles, Margarida Haraguchi, é dona de um dos mais festejados izakayas de São Paulo, o Issa; e o pai, o chef Masanobu Haraguchi, dirige o também aclamado restaurante Ban. Com o incentivo e o suporte dos pais, a dupla começou com o pé direito. O Matsu é pequeno, tem apenas o balcão e uma mesa, mas já é animado por um público entusiasta, recebido por Lucio, enquanto Sergio fica na cozinha. São muitos os pratinhos para dividir e petiscar -como a berinjela grelhada um tanto insossa ou a simples (mas suculenta e saborosa) coxa de frango grelhada. E são muitas as ofertas de pratos maiores, que podem valer a refeição. Muitos levam os sabores tradicionais à mesa (ou balcão). O buta kakuni é uma sensacional pancetta cozida lentamente, em duas fases; o tonkatsu curry é a macia milanesa suína com molho de curry suavemente picante e arroz. Também há criações que reportam às modas jovens do Japão, como as três versões de hambúrgueres -o nikomi hambagu é servido no prato, cozido em molho démi-glace. Ao contrário da maioria dos izakayas, o Matsu abre no almoço de segunda a sexta, quando serve apenas um prato, que muda todos os dias. Acompanhado de entradas, arroz, missoshiro e sobremesa, pode ser buta shogayaki (finas fatias de lombo de porco ao molho de gengibre), gyudon (tigela com arroz coberta com fatias de carne bovina e cebola cozidos em molho levemente adocicado e ovo perfeito), ou ebi furai karê (curry com camarão à milanesa). IZAKAYA MATSU - BOM ENDEREÇO av. Pedroso de Morais, 403, Pinheiros, tel. (11) 3812-9439 HORÁRIO de seg. a sex., das 11h30 às 14h30 e das 18h às 23h; sáb., das 18h às 23h AMBIENTE balcão e uma mesa SERVIÇO sem problemas VINHOS não tem, o principal item é o saquê, caro (merecia mais oferta em dose) CARTÕES A, D, M e V PREÇOS entradas, de R$ 16 a R$ 28; pratos, de R$ 25 a R$ 60 | comida |
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] | Foi inaugurada em fevereiro uma paleteria mexicana no bairro Campos Elíseos, no centro de São Paulo. A Bela Paletera é comandada pela proprietária, Júlia Belo. Formada em gastronomia pela FMU em 2012, foi trabalhar na Espanha, onde conheceu mexicanos que lhe apresentaram o sorvete. "Quando voltei, vi que estava estourando por aqui e resolvi abrir meu próprio negócio", conta. Além dos sabores clássicos, como morango com leite condensado, a casa também trabalha com criações próprias, como a paleta de cheesecake de damasco e de bem-casado. "Como tenho experiência na área, resolvi desenvolver outros sabores; todo mês queremos ter alguma receita diferente." Os preços variam de R$ 6 a R$ 8. Para o inverno, a casa planeja servir um minifondue de chocolate com pedaços de frutas e de paletas frutadas. A novidade deve ser lançada a partir da semana que vem. BELA PALETERA Endereço Alameda Eduardo Prado, 575, Campos Elíseos; tel. (11) 3624-9871 Horário de segunda a sexta-feira, das 11h às 20h; sáb. e dom., das 11h às 22h Preços entre R$ 6 e R$ 8 | comida |
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] | Neste sábado (28) a Mesa III Rotisseria e o Instituto Guandu vão realizar uma aula sobre compostagem e horta caseira. A aula, que terá duração de 50 minutos, pretende ensinar os participantes a reutilizar o lixo produzido na cozinha e como criar uma horta urbana, plantada em casas de ovos e será ministrada por Fernanda Danelon, sócio fundadora do Instituto Guandu, cujo trabalho é recolher resíduos orgânicos de restaurantes, transformá-los em fertilizante usado em hortas orgânicas e depois devolver a colheita para os restaurantes. O evento, gratuito, vai ser realizado no jardim da Mesa III, da chef Ana Soares, a partir das 11h. Na calçada da rotisseria, estará estacionada a carroça de orgânicos de Cynthia Ziviani, com cerca de 60 produtos garimpados no interior de São Paulo e Minas, no Sul do País e também no Nordeste. São frutas, verduras, legumes e grãos, além de manteiga, pesto e ovos para levar para casa. Mesa III Endereço: Rua Alves Guimarães, 1474 - Pinheiros; Tel: (11) 3868-5501 Horário de funcionamento: de segunda a sexta: 09h - 19h; sábado: 09h - 16h; domingo: 09h - 14h | comida |
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] | "Estava se aproximando a festa dos pães sem fermento", conta, na Bíblia, o apóstolo Lucas ao narrar o período de crucificação e ressurreição de Jesus Cristo. Na tradição judaica, come-se, nesta época, o matzá, um pão sem fermento que lembra aquele comido pelos judeus durante a fuga do Egito. Além dele, outros pães e bolos fazem parte da culinária pascal em diversas culturas. Um dos mais conhecidos por aqui é a colomba, da Itália. Também de lá vem a gubana, de massa parecida com um brioche e recheada com avelãs, macadâmias e passas. "Há pratos cujo ritual de preparo está diretamente ligado à religião", diz Paola Biselli, professora de gastronomia do Mackenzie. "Em países como a Ucrânia, é comum preparar a paska, pão doce que é levado pelas famílias à igreja no domingo para ser benzido", afirma. A doceira polonesa Kasia Patyra diz que em seu país também é comum levar alimentos à igreja. Um deles é o bolo babka, cuja massa é feita dois dias antes para crescer bem. O professor de gastronomia Luiz Araujo, da Anhembi Morumbi, cita outros exemplos, como o bolo francês gâteau de pâques, em forma de cordeiro, e o doce libanês mammoul, com tâmaras. Em Portugal, come-se o pão folar, que pode ser doce ou salgado. Ele é feito com um ovo cozido dentro, que representa renovação. Nas regiões de Madri e Andaluzia, na Espanha, nesta época se come rosca de San José. Segundo a tradição, durante a fuga para o Egito, José vendia roscas fritas para sustentar a família. De origem armênia, o choereg é um pão doce feito no domingo de Páscoa. O prato leva uma especiaria comum na Grécia e no Oriente Médio chamada mahleb, um caroço de cereja preta típica da região. O tão conhecido ovo de chocolate só aparece na história depois que o cacau é descoberto –no século 16, com a chegada dos europeus à América– e transforma a tradição pagã de se presentear com ovos pintados à mão. No Brasil, segundo Sandro Dias, professor de gastronomia do Senac, é na década de 1920 que os ovos começam a chegar às confeitarias do país. Para quem não dispensa a guloseima, o "Comida" traz também uma seleção de produtos entre R$ 18 e R$ 295. GUBANA E CHOEREG Pães italiano e armênio, com massa semelhante a brioche ONDE Julice Boulangère (r. Dep. Lacerda Franco, 536; tel. 11/3097-9144) QUANTO choereg, R$ 44,20 a unidade de 300 g; gubana, R$ 72,50 por 400 g MATZÁ DE CHOCOLATE Pão judaico sem fermento com cobertura de chocolate a amêndoas ONDE Casa Santa Luzia (al. Lorena, 1.471; tel. 11/3897-5000) QUANTO R$ 30,60 a unidade de 820 g ROSCA DE SAN JOSÉ De origem espanhola, leva canela, anis e açúcar polvilhado ONDE Almodovar, r. dos Pinheiros, 274; tel. (11) 3062-4455 QUANTO R$ 14 prato com duas unidades FOLAR Pão doce português, com erva-doce ONDE Casa Mathilde (pça antônio prado, 76; tel. 11/3106-9605) QUANTO R$ 4,80 a unidade de 200 g BABKA Bolo doce polonês com uva passa e casca de laranja ONDE Beza –só por encomenda (tel. 11/99616-8301; beza.com.br) QUANTO R$ 60 a unidade de 1 kg | comida |
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] | Quem passa diante do número 501 da rua Ministro Jesuíno Cardoso, na Vila Olímpia, não vê qualquer pista do negócio que em breve será inaugurado ali. Lá dentro, porém, a obra vai correr em ritmo acelerado. Está prevista para julho a abertura da Casa de Grelhados Marcos Bassi, que promete ser a primeira de uma rede. O projeto está pronto desde 2009 e foi elaborado pelo próprio Marcos Bassi, morto em março de 2013, aos 64 anos. O fundador do Templo da Carne, na Bela Vista, planejava abrir uma cadeia de serviço mais informal, que permitisse uma redução significativa dos preços. "Será um lugar mais jovem, com foco também na happy hour. Além de almoço, jantar e adega para 800 rótulos, teremos chope, cervejas especiais e petiscos", diz César Vincenzi, do marketing. Os cortes Bassi que fizeram a fama da casa-mãe, como o bombom, o T-bone e a bisteca fiorentina, estão garantidos. E com preços mais amigáveis –o ticket médio será de R$ 70, sem vinho. "No Templo, formalidades como toalhas de mesa e um grande número de garçons e maîtres encarecem o serviço. Na Casa de Grelhados, vai ser mais simples", diz Vincenzi. O salão para cem pessoas também terá um empório, a exemplo da unidade da Treze de Maio. No imóvel vizinho, haverá espaço para eventos, com churrasqueira. Segundo Vincenzi, o investimento não deve passar de R$ 1 milhão. CASA DE GRELHADOS ONDE r. Ministro Jesuíno Cardoso, 501; tel. (11) 3045-6183 ABERTURA prevista para julho | comida |
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] | O Chile é mundialmente famoso pelo seu vinho, mas até recentemente sua comida não era conhecida para além de suas fronteiras. Agora, vários chefs na capital do país estão revolucionando a cozinha chilena, uma mordida por vez. Enquanto alguns chefs estão reacordando os pratos ancestrais dos indígenas Mapuche e Rapa Nui, outros estão reimaginando cardápios típicos ao experimentar com ingredientes locais, incluindo flores comestíveis de lugares como a Patagônia e os picos gelados da cordilheira dos Andes. Fãs de gastronomia do mundo todo estão viajando para Santiago para ter um gostinho de alguns restaurantes. A cidade, de sete milhões de habitantes, é tradicionalmente mais conhecida pela sua comida de rua, como sanduíches de carne e cachorros-quente lambuzados com creme de abacate, do que por sua alta gastronomia. A comida típica chilena normalmente não é apimentada ou preparada de forma exótica e inclui empanadas, sopas de frutos do mar e caçarola de milho. "A comida chilena nunca foi tão importante como é agora" disse o chef Rodolfo Guzman, cujo restaurante, Borago, foi nomeado na disputada lista dos 50 melhores restaurantes do mundo, no caso da América Latina, da San Pellegrino. "Nós desenvolvemos em nossas cozinhas toda essa comida que os mapuche tem comido por centenas de anos." Guzman abriu seu restaurante em 2007 depois de trabalhar no espanhol Mugaritz, tido como um dos melhores restaurantes do mundo. Desde então, vários sous chefs que trabalharam no Borago abriram suas próprias casas. Então, o que mudou? "O Chile finalmente parou de olhar para fora e passou a olhar para si mesmo" disse o chileno e jornalista de gastronomia, Daniel Greve. "É a revolução de olhar para as nossas raízes e a cultura indígena, para o que é interessante no cozinhar de nossas mães e avós, e de desejar recriar um panorama." No restaurante Peumayen, o chef Juan Manuel Pena serve pequenos pedaços de pães que são enfileirados geograficamente, de norte a sul do país. Entre eles, o "poe", um bolo de banana dos rapa nui, habitantes da Ilha de Páscoa, o remoto território chileno, no sul do Pacífico, anexado em 1888. Os pães exóticos são seguidos por aperitivos, incluindo frango com purê de cebola, cogumelos e morangos, carne de cavalo e uma salada de alga marinha com vinho branco. "Há alguns anos atrás, nós ainda estávamos discutindo entre chefs o que consistia o sabor chileno. O que é gastronomia chilena?" disse Pena, um argentino que viveu no Chile pela última década. "Mas agora está resolvido. Nós demos um passo a frente." No Carlo Cocina Mercado Gourmet, isso significa reinventar como ingredientes tradicionais são servidos, como dispor pedaços de ceviche ou um pouco de "tomatican" –um molho de tomate, milho e cebola – em porções individuais. O restaurante em estilo mercado gourmet também vendo produtos locais como água engarrafada da Patagônia e azeitonas do deserto do Atacama. "Por muito tempo, o Chile mostrou a si mesmo em termos de produtos" como vinho ou azeite de oliva, disse Carlo Von Muhlenbrock, um chef chileno que é dono de um restaurante e apresenta um programa de rádio e TV sobre cozinha local. "Mas o Chile agora está tomando riscos." Pratos no Borago incluem enguia grelhado servida com um purê cozinhado sobre uma pedra do mar e mergulhado dentro de um caldo marrom com gosto de soja feito a partir das raízes de "cochayuyo", uma alga marinha chilena. Um ensopado tradicional conhecido como "chupe", preparado normalmente com frutos do mar, mas que, nesse caso, é feito com cogumelos e decorado com finas folhas de plantas selvagens crocantes que, ao morder, se parecem com asas de inseto. "Eu não conhecia nada sobre cozinha chilena, mas eu gostei tanto do Borago que comi lá duas noites seguidas" disse Brandon Hensinger, fã de gastronomia, cujo objetivo é experimentar todos os melhores restaurantes da América Latina. A cozinha latino americana tem ganho respeito mundialmente graças a mestres como o peruano Gaston Acurio, que abriu mais de uma dúzia de restaurantes ao redor do mundo, incluindo a franquia Astrid & Gaston. Agora, o Chile está começando a aparecer no radar gastronômico internacional. Os ingredientes dos pratos desenvolvidos são tão abrangentes quanto a geografia chilena. Eles incluem desde azeitonas frescas, que crescem em um dos desertos mais secos do mundo, até "merquen" uma mistura de pimentas vermelhas defumadas com sementes de coentro nativas da região sul de Araucania, que os mapuches clamam como seu território ancestral. Enquanto os chefs de Santigo estão aumentando com sucesso a fama da cozinha chilena fora do país, o governo precisa promover seus esforços em casa também, disse Maria Canabal, uma escritora de gastronomia de Paris. "É um fenômeno isolado, porque a maioria dos restaurantes do país não são de alta cozinha ou não oferecem ingredientes indígenas", disse Canabal. "Eu só espero que [o fenômeno] inspire outros a fazer o mesmo." | comida |
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] | Após uma temporada de três anos à frente do restaurante Chef Rouge, Wagner Resende, 36, assume as panelas do novo empreendimento do Grupo Fasano, o Parigi Bistrot, com inauguração prevista para a primeira semana de abril no shopping Cidade Jardim, em São Paulo. Foi o próprio chef quem tomou a iniciativa de se aproximar do restaurateur Rogério Fasano, após seu contrato de três anos na antiga casa ter se encerrado, conta Resende. Fasano diz que procurava um profissional com "compreensão real da cozinha tradicional francesa" para dar vida ao cardápio criado por ele em parceria com o francês Eric Berland, à frente do restaurante Parigi desde 1998. Resende aprendeu a executar os clássicos da culinária do país com Erick Jacquin, com quem trabalhou por dez anos no Café Antique e no La Brasserie. Foi esse currículo, que inclui também uma passagem pelo Le Marais, que chamou a atenção de Fasano. A proprietária do Chef Rouge, Vanessa Fiuza Cussiol, afirma que a passagem de Resende pela casa foi positiva, e diz que pretende continuar renovando seu restaurante, que completa duas décadas. Cussiol já deu início a negociações com dois chefs franceses, um dos quais deve preencher a vaga de Resende. Por ora, o comando da cozinha está nas mãos do chef Paulo Soares, que trabalha na casa há 15 anos. PARIGI BISTROT ENDEREÇO shopping Cidade Jardim, av. Magalhães de Castro, 12.000, Cidade Jardim; ainda sem telefone ABERTURA prevista para a primeira semana de abril | comida |
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] | Baseado principalmente no constrangimento, o primeiro programa urbano de compostagem dos EUA está funcionando. Desde janeiro, ao encontrar lixeiras com alface, pizza ou restos de comida, os coletores de lixo colam adesivos vermelhos para informar a casa infratora (e todo o bairro) que a lei de compostagem foi violada. Em um país que joga cerca de 31% de seus alimentos no lixo, a nova política de Seattle, que inclusive multará as pessoas que não fizerem compostagem, é resultado de pressões ambientais, sociais e econômicas. Porém, a compostagem obrigatória também reflete uma mudança mais profunda, em que desperdiçar comida virou imperdoável. Administrar uma cozinha eficiente está se tornando tão satisfatório quanto a própria comida. Esse espírito se estende dos melhores restaurantes de Manhattan às casas de pessoas comuns, como Kathleen Whitson, 44, que cozinha para sua família. Whitson, que só descobriu o alho fresco depois que saiu da faculdade, hoje joga os restos de legumes em um balde sobre o balcão e mantém na porta da geladeira uma lista do que há no congelador. Sua culinária é mais parecida com a de sua avó do que a de sua mãe, uma mulher que, segundo ela, a criou para acreditar na magia da comida processada. "Apesar de isso me enlouquecer às vezes, não consigo me imaginar cozinhando de outra maneira", disse Whitson. A busca por economia e eficiência não é novidade na culinária americana. Salsicha, manteiga feita em casa e repolho fermentado foram as bases da vida agrícola, além de serem essenciais à sobrevivência na era da Depressão. As donas de casa durante a Segunda Guerra Mundial se consideravam soldados da cozinha, tendo a conservação como grito de batalha. Nos anos 1970, a ecologia orientou para a necessidade de utilizar os restos da cozinha. A arte da eficiência culinária se perdeu nos supermercados cheios de prateleiras de pizzas pré-assadas e alface em sacos. O jantar tem a mesma probabilidade de vir do "drive-through" que do novo bistrô da esquina ou do fogão. Desperdiçar menos na cozinha é simplesmente economia inteligente, disse Dana Gunders, cientista de projeto do Conselho de Defesa de Recursos Naturais. Comer melhor talvez saia mais caro, disse ela, mas uma cozinheira eficiente pode fazer a diferença. "Ficamos muito preocupadas com o preço na loja, e dez centavos nos fazem decidir entre um produto e outro", disse ela. "Mas na cozinha jogamos fora muito dinheiro com o desperdício." Reduzir o desperdício de alimentos está entrando rapidamente na corrente dominante americana. A ideia ficou em nono lugar entre as 20 principais tendências alimentares na lista de "O que É Quente em 2015" da Associação Nacional de Restaurantes. Frutas e legumes imperfeitos estão sendo promovidos por mercearias e organizações como endfoodwaste.org, cuja campanha nas redes sociais inclui uma série de fotos de produtos com defeitos, como as postadas em sua página no Twitter, @UglyFruitAndVeg. Mesmo na Europa, onde pratos clássicos como "pot-au-feu" ou a sopa toscana "ribollita" surgiram de uma história de eficiência na cozinha, 2014 foi declarado o ano contra o desperdício alimentar, medida adotada seis anos depois que a União Europeia suspendeu a proibição à venda de produtos com aspecto fora do padrão. No ano passado, a rede de supermercados francesa Intermarché começou uma campanha para comemorar e vender o que chamou de "frutas e legumes inglórios", com preços e anúncios especiais. Alguns cozinheiros já chegaram lá, disse Brandi Henderson, chef e professora de culinária, que mudou seu estilo para uma espécie de técnica estilo livre, desligada de receitas. "Muito lixo da cozinha vem de pessoas que seguem receitas", disse ela. "Alguém usa aquela pasta de curry estranha uma vez e depois não tem confiança para pensar: 'Puxa, esse curry é realmente bom. Vou fazer um arroz frito com ele ou refogar uns camarões'." | comida |
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] | Graças a seu clima ameno e ao solo fértil, Porto Rico tem os ingredientes de uma ilha da fantasia para gastrônomos, um lugar onde todo tipo de delícia natural brota da terra, às vezes sem muita necessidade de interferência humana. Apesar disso, décadas de política econômica incentivaram a industrialização e o afastamento das raízes agrícolas de Porto Rico, e o cultivo de alimentos foi substituído pelo evangelho do enlatado e do embalado a vácuo da América do pós-guerra. "Você vê uma terra verde, pujante, maravilhosa -e ninguém planta nada", disse Simon Baeyertz, proprietário de um hotel em Vieques chamado El Blok. "E a geração mais jovem começou a perceber que isso era loucura." O chef do El Blok, José Enrique, 37, é o líder de um movimento de cozinheiros, agricultores e ativistas porto-riquenhos que chegaram à mesma conclusão: existe um suculento paraíso gastronômico ao alcance, e tudo o que eles têm de fazer é agarrá-lo. Restaurantes em San Juan, como Parcela Gastropub, La Jaquita Baya, Santaella, Marmalade e José Enrique (casa que leva o nome do chef); uma empresa pioneira de alimentos naturais chamada El Departamento de la Comida; e a firma de café Hacienda San Pedro estão promovendo uma nova maneira de pensar que reapresenta os consumidores e compradores aos tesouros ocultos de sua terra natal. A primeira mensagem de Enrique aos agricultores de Porto Rico foi simples: "Vocês me procurem e eu comprarei tudo do seu caminhão. Vocês me dizem que isso vem da sua terra e que foi colhido nesta manhã? Eu compro." Tara Rodríguez Besosa e Olga Casellas Badillo criaram o El Departamento de la Comida há quatro anos e meio como um modo de levar produtos orgânicos de pequenas hortas e fazendas particulares aos bairros movimentados de San Juan. "Nós sempre tínhamos a mesma conversa à mesa de jantar", disse Besosa. "Que não tínhamos acesso à comida e aos ingredientes realmente bons." Sua solução, no início, foi criar um projeto de agricultura comunitária. "Era apenas um site na web, uma van, nós duas e um motorista", disse Besosa. Mas a demanda explodiu, então as duas conseguiram um armazém, que inclui um restaurante. Os visitantes e até alguns moradores da ilha se surpreendem ao saber que Porto Rico tem um café tão bom que era comprado por toda a Europa no século 19. "As pessoas me perguntam: 'Vocês plantam café em Porto Rico?'", disse Rebecca Atienza, membro da família proprietária da fazenda de café Hacienda San Pedro na aldeia de Jayuya, na montanha. A fazenda costumava vender seus grãos só para outras empresas. Mas Atienza agora começa a plantar as sementes da cultura local do café, construindo dois cafés Hacienda San Pedro em San Juan e apresentando a marca aos restaurantes locais. O nascente movimento de consumo local é uma dádiva para chefs como Ariel Rodríguez, Xavier Pacheco, Sebastián Ramírez e o mestre das linguiças Pedro Álvarez, que desejam ir além dos secos tostones (banana verde frita) e dos montinhos de mofongo (purê de banana da terra com toucinho). "Nos últimos anos, ficou muito mais fácil encontrar produtos de qualidade", disse Ramírez, 29, que dirige a cozinha em um bar de "tapas" requintado chamado Parcela. Existe uma nova onda de jovens agricultores, disse ele. No José Enrique, o cardápio é apenas uma placa branca levada de mesa em mesa, com os nomes dos pratos rabiscados com caneta (ou apagados), dependendo dos ingredientes que chegaram à cozinha no dia. Talvez a fonte seja um jovem de 20 e poucos anos, "com um carregamento de beldroega", disse Enrique, ou um pescador que liga e diz ao chef que acaba de apanhar uma grande enguia. "Meu prato preferido são as ostras locais", disse ele. "Elas são tão frescas, é incrível!" Em Vieques, a ilha ainda selvagem que já foi em parte um campo de tiro da marinha dos Estados Unidos, os moradores simplesmente aparecem na cozinha do El Blok com produtos -carambola, manga, mamão- que colheram a caminho da cidade. "Temos coletores urbanos", disse Enrique. Baeyertz acrescentou: "Não é do campo para a mesa. É mais da rua para a mesa. Em Vieques, isso não é considerado roubo. As frutas de uma árvore são frutas de uma árvore -é um código cultural". Mas os olhos de Baeyertz se arregalaram um pouco no dia em que um homem apareceu com um monte de maracujás que pareciam curiosamente familiares. "Eram do meu próprio jardim", disse Baeyertz. | comida |
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] | Alguns meses depois de inaugurar um pequeno restaurante em Birmingham, no Reino Unido, em 1977, Mohammed Arif passou duas semanas no seu país natal, o Paquistão, onde viu curries picantes e aromáticos que eram preparados e servidos no mesmo prato, quentíssimos. "Aí, me ocorreu que eu poderia trazer isso para cá", disse Arif, cuja inspiração deu vida a um novo prato, o balti -curry geralmente feito de carne, frango ou camarão, combinado com legumes e um molho picante e cozido em fogo alto. O recém-reformado restaurante de Arif, chamado Adil's, é apontado como o lugar onde o primeiro curry balti foi servido, em 1978. Ele fica numa pitoresco bairro de imigrantes em Birmingham, onde movimentadas lojas vendem alimentos, especiarias e roupas do sul da Ásia. Numa época em que as tensões sobre a imigração, a assimilação e as diferenças étnicas e religiosas parecem ser cada vez mais nítidas, essa adaptação da culinária paquistanesa aos gostos britânicos é um símbolo das influências culinárias cruzadas numa das cidades mais multiculturais do Reino Unido. A maioria dos clientes nos restaurantes que servem o balti são não asiáticos. A área em torno do Adil's hoje é conhecida como Triângulo do Balti de Birmingham. Restaurantes em outras cidades têm suas próprias receitas, e pratos pré-cozidos de balti estão disponíveis nos supermercados. Mas isso faz do balti de Birmingham uma das especialidades do Reino Unido? Autoridades da União Europeia estão debatendo se o balti de Birmingham deve ser reconhecido e registrado ao lado alimentos tipicamente europeus, como a pizza napolitana e o jamón serrano espanhol. O curry é "parte importante do patrimônio alimentar do Reino Unido, como o 'fish and chips' e as tortas de porco", disse Liz Truss, secretária de Estado britânica do Ambiente, Alimentação e Assuntos Rurais. O Reino Unido, ex-potência colonizadora da Índia, tem um antigo caso de amor com pratos oriundos daquele subcontinente, mas adaptados a paladares não habituados a temperos picantes. Em Birmingham, o balti é consumido com grandes pães naan mergulhados em panelas quentes tipo wok, feitas de chapa de aço finas. O balti de Birmingham leva menos de dez minutos para ficar pronto. Ele é saboroso e picante, mas sem ser ardido demais, e untuoso, mas não muito pesado. Na cozinha do restaurante Shabab, na rua Ladypool, em Birmingham, Zafar Hussain demonstra a técnica do cozimento sobre uma chama. Um de seus ajudantes abre um grande pão naan e em seguida, com um floreio, puxa uma almofada que tem o tamanho exato para moldar o pão e o coloca cuidadosamente em um forno circular tandoor aquecido. "Recebemos visitantes do mundo todo", disse Hussain. Cada restaurante tem o seu próprio molho, mas os ingredientes incluem cúrcuma, feno-grego, cominho, garam masala e coentro. Há um debate sobre a origem do nome balti. Uma teoria diz que ele se refere a uma área montanhosa do norte do Paquistão, conhecida como Baltistan. Arif disse que o nome foi inventado porque era mais fácil de pronunciar do que o da panela paquistanesa chamada karahi. Se a Comissão Europeia conferir ao balti de Birmingham a designação de especialidade tradicional, restaurantes poderão usá-lo como prova de autenticidade e qualidade. Arif, 62, que veio para a Inglaterra no final dos anos 1960, disse que se arrepende de não ter explorado o balti de forma mais comercial. "Esta foi a minha marca", disse ele, "mas eu nunca realmente liguei para isso". | comida |
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] | Embora não esteja na cozinha, o chef Jamie Oliver está por toda parte na rede de restaurantes italianos sob seu comando, o Jamie's Italian. Além de constar do menu, que leva sua assinatura (o que ainda é reforçado em alguns itens, como o "pappardele de linguiça do Jamie" e a "super tábua para dividir do Jamie"), o nome do britânico está no guardanapo de pano entregue aos comensais, no ketchup de fabricação própria, em tábuas, nos pacotes de massa - todos itens disponíveis para venda. Se Jamie hoje tem uma marca internacional a zelar, é fundamental controlar o principal na experiência de quem visita seu restaurante: o serviço e a comida. Ambos os quesitos saíram-se muito bem em visita do "Comida" a uma das filiais londrinas do Jamie's Italian, localizada no bairro turístico de Covent Garden. Para testar a promessa de atendimento rápido e pontual à clientela paulistana, a reportagem cronometrou o tempo prometido pelo garçom para a entrega dos pratos. As azeitonas verdes do aperitivo, em porção de oito, com pão, custavam 3,95 libras (R$ 17,50) e demorariam quatro minutos. Foram 3 minutos e 42 segundos. Pontualidade mais que britânica. Para o prato principal, o garçom recomendou um clássico da casa: o ossobuco de porco ("free range", frisa o cardápio), lentamente cozido com açafrão, cebolas, tomates e vinho branco, ao preço de 14,95 libras (R$ 66,30, porção individual). O acompanhamento ideal, as "funky chips" -batatas fritas com alho e alecrim-, custava 3,85 libras (R$ 17,10). O tempo prometido para a refeição chegar foi de 15 minutos. Desta vez, no entanto, prevaleceu o sangue italiano do empreendimento. Foram 22 minutos e sete segundos entre o pedido ser feito e o prato ser servido. Um prometido diferencial do Jamie's Italian, a preocupação com o frescor e a qualidade dos ingredientes, ficou claro em um detalhe: a maionese que vinha com a porção de batatas fritas era fresca, feita na hora. Entre o registro do pedido de sobremesa no sistema da casa (um cheesecake de limão, R$ 26,40) e a chegada do doce à mesa, foram breves 5 minutos e 30 segundos. A conta total, com um refrigerante, sem serviço, ficou em 31 libras (R$ 137). Não é barato, mas é próximo do que cobram outras grandes cadeias de comida italiana em Londres - e custa bem menos do que visitar estabelecimentos de outros chefs de sucesso na TV, como Heston Blumenthal e Gordon Ramsay. | comida |
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] | O pâtissier Arnor Porto, ex-Emiliano, acaba de inaugurar a Sweethings, confeitaria com foco na venda para restaurantes. "Forneço doces a quem não tem estrutura para fazer sobremesas. Podem ser montados na hora, porque entrego calda e decoração separados." A linha tem receitas clássicas, como musse de chocolate (R$ 8), tiramisù (R$ 12) e panna cotta (R$ 9), à base de chocolate belga, fava de baunilha e mascarpone caseiro. O MoDi é o primeiro cliente –a sócia de Arnor, Ana Gabriela Borges, é casada com Guilherme Castro, sócio do restaurante. Pessoas físicas também podem comprar por encomenda –no varejo, os doces individuais custam a partir de R$ 8. Por enquanto, é preciso buscá-los na fábrica. No fim de abril, quando o MoDi abrir a primeira filial, no shopping Higienópolis, Arnor vai ganhar um balcão próprio no salão. Ele também planeja usar a cozinha da Sweethings para gravar aulas para a internet. "Quero mostrar que a confeitaria não precisa ser complicada." SWEETHINGS ONDE rua Tinhorão, 122, Higienópolis; tel. (11) 3441-2301 | comida |
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] | Coisas politicamente corretas costumam ser... corretas, quase sempre. Mas em geral, insossas. Se a metáfora vale para hábitos diversos, mais ainda para a comida. Vide Jamie Oliver. Não que o correto necessariamente tenha que ser sem gosto. A questão é: à mesa, o que define o sabor não é a ética do produtor ou do cozinheiro. Sem competência, é muito fácil fazer um vegetal (ou vinho ou bife) orgânico medíocre e incomível. Jamie Oliver infelizmente é uma prova disso, e não a exceção. Mas ele é um dos mestres de um departamento ao qual reputo a maior importância: de divulgação da comida boa (e descomplicada). Não é qualquer grande chef que tem o carisma midiático e uma mensagem progressista, como ele. Por outro lado, isso não basta para ser um bom chef de restaurante, ofício bem diferente de apresentador de TV ou autor de livros. Acho que os mais espertos divulgadores da gastronomia percebem isso, e não se metem a ser chefs profissionais. Alguns fizeram o caminho inverso, e deu certo. Outros, nem tanto. Um exemplo é o de Gordon Ramsay, que inventou um personagem fake, fez sucesso na TV, e continua sendo um grande chef –seu principal restaurante na Inglaterra é realmente bom. No Brasil, um paralelo pertinente seria com Claude Troisgros. Seu principal restaurante ainda é uma referência no Rio de Janeiro e ele, ao mesmo tempo, tornou-se um sucesso carismático na TV. Mas você apostaria que, por exemplo, a colega de Oliver, Nigella Lawson, se abrisse um restaurante teria sucesso? Será que ela sabe administrar uma cozinha profissional com o mesmo charme sedutor com que o faz numa cozinha doméstica na TV? Jamie Oliver apostou nisso, mas seus restaurantes na Europa são uma má vitrine dos seus mandamentos e de suas convicções. São politicamente corretos, mas não são saborosos. Aí não dá. Comida não é mera profissão de fé, tem que trazer prazer, senão vira apenas ração, por mais correta que seja. | comida |
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] | Para quem conheceu o primeiro restaurante Tête à Tête, que funcionou em Higienópolis entre 2008 e 2009, o primeiro impacto ao visitar sua nova versão, nos Jardins, é produzido pelo ambiente. Antes era uma antiga casa com atmosfera de residência, e era tocada de modo familiar por mãe e filho. Agora, tem uma arquitetura moderna, austera, até fria, totalmente projetada para a função. O novo restaurante é tocado por uma dupla, mas não mais em família. Um deles, oriundo da casa original, é Gabriel Matteuzzi, 38, com formação em Barcelona e passagem por restaurantes importantes como o francês Michel Bras e o brasileiro D.O.M. Foi neste, onde esteve entre 2011 e 2014, que conheceu seu atual sócio, Guilherme Vinha, 31, que tinha estudado na Espanha e trabalhado, em Lima, no Astrid y Gastón. Como no passado, o Tête à Tête arrisca centrar sua oferta no menu-degustação. Hoje existe um menu, bem curto, e é possível pedir à la carte. Mas há duas propostas de degustação, com quatro ou seis pratos principais –basicamente versões reduzidas dos pratos servidos à la carte. A cozinha é moderna, mas está longe de ser experimental ou vanguardista. Com referências a pratos europeus ou brasileiros (há também um peruano), são combinações que parecem familiares, embora procurem surpreender com associações inusitadas. É o que transparece em entradas como o ceviche de frutos do mar, com caldo de tucupi, maracujá e flores de jambu; nas curcubitáceas, um arranjo de vegetais que evoca Michel Bras (mix de abobrinhas e abóboras com vinagrete de toranja e folhas de agrião); e na terrine de foie gras com compota de cupuaçu com damasco, azeite de ciboulette, rúcula e gengibre confit. Nota-se cuidado técnico na preparação de pratos como o linguado, cozido suavemente com creme de couve-flor, azedinha, ervilha-torta e demi-glace; e na costela de boi braseada com manteiga de mandioquinha, catalônia e farofa de mandioca crocante. A sobremesa pode ser um baba no qual o bolo, no lugar de rum, leva uísque 12 anos, e é servido com creme de café ao uísque e sorvete de café. Termina uma degustação leve, num restaurante que retorna promissor. TÊTE À TÊTE - BOM ENDEREÇO r. Doutor Melo Alves, 216, Jardins; tel.(11) 3796-0090 HORÁRIO de ter. a sáb., das 12h às 15h e das 19h30 à 0h AMBIENTE moderno, um pouco frio SERVIÇO competente VINHOS carta pouco extensa, bons produtores, preços nem tanto PREÇOS entradas, de R$ 35 a R$ 45; pratos, de R$ 45 a R$ 72; sobremesas, de R$ 28 a R$ 35; menu-degustação, de R$ 200 a R$ 280; almoço executivo, R$ 49,90 | comida |
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] | Em São Paulo, o Jamie's Italian quer se situar entre as cantinas e as casas de alta gastronomia italiana. "Com o preço do primeiro e o ambiente e a experiência do segundo", afirma o chef-executivo Lisandro Lauretti. Na visita da Folha, que conheceu o cardápio em primeira mão, foram servidas longas tábuas com vegetais grelhados e marinados, macias bolotas de mozarela de búfala (produzidas no Brasil, sob encomenda da rede), crocantes casquinhas de pão com pecorino e um pingo de geleia de pimenta, bruschettas de caponata e frios fatiados finamente –estes, trazidos da Itália. As tábuas custam de R$ 28 a R$ 42 por pessoa. Um dos pratos mais vendidos em Londres, o linguine com camarões (R$ 64) tem molho picante que leva caldo de lagosta, peixe e vegetais reduzidos por horas. A massa fresca (feita na casa) é servida al dente, com frutos do mar e rúcula. De tão alto, o hambúrguer italiano (R$ 46) assusta à primeira vista. É preciso "achatá-lo" antes de abocanhá-lo. A carne, de 220 g, combina coxão mole, acém e gordura. Além dela, há molho de tomate, fatias de spianata piccante (embutido de porco picante), queijo minas padrão, folhas, anéis de cebola empanados, picles, maionese e um pão amanteigado. Atenção: o ponto da casa é bem-passado –e isso é inegociável, a norma é baseada em orientações sanitárias. Além do menu fixo, haverá três "especiais do dia", que devem incluir a brasileira picanha, aprovada por Jamie. O chef diz não haver nenhum prato em seus cardápios no qual ele não tenha se envolvido na criação. JAMIE, É CLARO! Os uniformes no Brasil demoraram mais do que o previsto para ficar prontos porque Jamie fez questão de escolher o modelo de estampa; a música ambiente vem de Londres, com uma seleção feita por... Jamie, é claro. Bem iluminados, envidraçados e com predomínio de madeira e tons de azul, os salões nos dois andares seguem o conceito universal da rede. Praças e estações de preparo são abertas. As louças e o mobiliário, dos bancos do bar aos lustres, foram importados. Só há uma "marca" a dar uma cara única à casa paulistana: o ladrilho hidráulico que reveste a parede externa das estações. O Jamie's Italian deve funcionar de segunda a segunda, emendando os serviços de almoço e jantar –e apostando na happy hour com antepastos como bruschettas e arancini (bolinhos de risoto). No bar, haverá drinques clássicos, com uma seção de Aperol, e uma carta de vinhos com 25 rótulos internacionais –as garrafas custarão de R$ 74 a R$ 413. "Quem quiser vir aqui para ver e ser visto será bem-vindo, mas melhor se sair daqui pensando um pouco mais na qualidade do que põe no prato", diz Lauretti, reforçando os mantras de boa alimentação do sócio. JAMIE'S ITALIAN ENDEREÇO r. Horácio Lafer, 61, Itaim Bibi; tel. (11) 2365-1309; jamiesitalian.com.br; de seg. a sex, das 11h30 à 1h, sáb., das 12h à 1h, e dom., das 12h à 0h (Previsão de abertura em 25/3) Aprenda a receita da salada de salmão e leia depoimento sobre o Jamie's Italian de Covent Garden, em Londres, em folha.com/comida Colaborou MAGÊ FLORES, de São Paulo | comida |
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] | Ações trabalhistas não são novidade no universo dos restaurantes estrelados de Nova York. Nos últimos anos, casas com três estrelas no guia "Michelin", como Le Bernardin e Masa, tiveram de responder a processos movidos por ex-funcionários. Na maior parte dos casos, as ações envolvem reclamações sobre a divisão das gorjetas –que, nos EUA, respondem por grande parte da renda de quem trabalha no ramo– ou a jornada intensa. Mas um processo movido contra o Chef's Table at Brooklyn Fare, único restaurante três-estrelas fora da ilha de Manhattan, em Nova York, chama a atenção por outro motivo: o chef Cesar Ramirez é acusado de discriminar seus clientes. Entre os alvos, estariam visitantes asiáticos e até mesmo moradores de partes específicas da cidade. De acordo com a ação, protocolada em dezembro e cuja primeira audiência está marcada para abril, Ramirez se referia a clientes asiáticos como "pessoas de merda". Emi Howard, uma ex-garçonete de ascendência oriental, afirma que foi proibida por Ramirez de posicionar "asiáticos" perto dele no balcão em que os clientes são atendidos. Orientais e "Upper West Siders" (expressão utilizada para designar moradores da parte noroeste de Manhattan) deveriam ser servidos com os piores cortes de peixe. O Chef's Table recebe 18 pessoas por vez para provar seu menu-degustação de cerca de 20 pratos. O custo para cada cliente é de US$ 225 (aproximadamente R$ 727) pelo menu, mais 20% de taxa de serviço (US$ 45, R$ 145), cobrados no cartão de crédito logo após a reserva. Além de tratar das acusações de racismo, o processo afirma que a taxa de serviço não era distribuída entre os funcionários. Boa parte das gorjetas adicionais deixadas pelos clientes também era retida por Ramirez e pelo dono do Chef's Table, Moe Issa. Os cinco ex-funcionários citados na ação também dizem ter sido obrigados a trabalhar mais de dez horas por dia, seis dias por semana, sem receber hora extra. Eles querem receber esses pagamentos adicionais mais uma indenização por danos, mas o valor não foi divulgado. Em geral, processos como este terminam em acordo e não vão a julgamento. O advogado responsável pelo processo, Maimon Kirschenbaum, é o terror dos restaurantes nova-iorquinos e está por trás de quase todas as ações movidas contra as principais casas da cidade. Procurado pela Folha, ele não quis dar entrevista. OUTRO LADO Ramirez nega as acusações de discriminação. "Como eu posso ser racista com asiáticos? Se de 85% a 95% dos nossos produtos vêm da Ásia?", afirmou o chef ao site Eater. "Nós sempre nos focamos na cultura asiática. E eu trabalhei com asiáticos durante toda a minha carreira." Moe Issa afirma que as alegações sobre o salário os funcionários também não são verdadeiras. Segundo ele, o restaurante distribui a taxa de serviço ao pagar salários acima da média para seus funcionários como forma de atrair "empregados suficientemente bons". E as gorjetas, afirma, são sempre divididas. A assessoria de imprensa do restaurante afirmou que a questão está nas mãos dos advogados e que não fará comentários neste momento. MAIS Leiarelato de jantar no Chef's Table. | comida |
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] | Pizzaria fermenta suas massas por 24 horas Aberta em 28/2, a Carlos Pizza, na Vila Madalena, serve discos com massa fermentada por 24 horas, assados em forno a lenha e servidos bem dourados. A pequena casa (r. Harmonia, 501; tel. 11/3813-2017) tem ambiente aconchegante e cardápio enxuto. As pizzas (R$ 25) são preparadas por Rodrigo Felício, que passou pelo D.O.M. e pelo Le Jazz. Entre as opções, há escarola com raspas de limão-siciliano e amêndoas; radicchio com parmesão, ervas e pancetta; e pepperoni com chorizo e picles de erva-doce. Na sobremesa, há pêssego assado com sorvete e praliné (R$ 15). * Heloísa Bacellar lança linha de pães e bolos A chef do restaurante Lá da Venda (r. Harmonia, 161, tel. 11/3037-7702) criou uma linha de misturas caseiras de bolos e pães, que custam entre R$ 19,20 e R$ 26,90. São cinco opções de produtos: bolo de chocolate com pedaços de chocolate, bolo de limão, bolo de banana, pão de fubá e pão de queijo, também disponível na versão congelada. Cada caixinha vem acompanhada por uma forma de madeira e papel para ir direto ao forno, sem necessidade de untar. * Guia 'Descorchados' terá rótulos brasileiros A edição de 2015 do guia do crítico Patricio Tapia será lançada em São Paulo na segunda (23). A publicação terá pela primeira vez rótulos brasileiros. Para isso, o crítico provou 150 espumantes da serra gaúcha. O lançamento, com degustação aberta ao público, será no Praça São Lourenço (r. Casa do Ator, 608, Vila Olímpia). É preciso comprar antes o guia no site loja inner.com.br/lacamentodescor chados2015.html, por R$ 105. Portal Isso É Café lança hoje venda de grãos Conhecida por produzir cafés com foco na sustentabilidade, a FAF (Fazenda Ambiental Fortaleza) passa a disponibilizar seus grãos para venda direta, por meio do site Isso É Café, que entra no ar nesta sexta-feira (20). Os grãos são torrados semanalmente, para que os clientes recebam os cafés sempre frescos, em embalagens de 250 g ou 150 g –custam de R$ 22 a R$ 40. A fazenda pretende lançar venda em varejo, em empórios, até o final do ano. * RECEITA Aprenda a fazer brownie de manteiga de amendoim da Adoro Brownie (r. Gomes de Carvalho, 116, tel. 11/4112-4842); caixa kraft com quatro brownies (R$ 30) * BAHIA O restaurante Sotero (r. Barão de Tatuí, 272) oferece uma releitura do pãozinho delícia, tradicional de Salvador, recheado com carne de fumeiro (R$ 15,90) * VOCÊ CONHECE? Feijão muito empregado na culinária italiana, tem consistência cremosa e sabor similar à noz. Pode ser encontrado em seu estado natural, nas cores vermelho e marrom, ou em versões enlatadas. Utiliza-se em receitas de massas, saladas e sopas. Também é conhecido como "cranberry bean" ONDE COMPRAR Casa Santa Luzia (al. Lorena, 1.471, Jardim Paulista; tel. 11/3897-5000) quanto R$ 7 (vidro com 370 g) * AGENDA 21 de MARÇO O shopping Pátio Higienópolis, em SP, promove, das 12h às 22h, o Pátio Gourmet, com mais de dez atrações gastronômicas, entre elas a Sonheria Dulca; preços vão de R$ 6 a R$ 20 (patiohigienopolis.com.br ) 27 de MARÇO A Accademia Gastronomica oferece o curso de Páscoa Ideias Gourmet (R$ 240); inscrições pelo tel. (11) 5041-3277 | comida |
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] | As coxinhas que fizeram a fama do bar Veloso (r. Conceição Veloso, 54) ganham versões inéditas para comemorar os dez anos da casa. De terça (24) a sexta-feira (27), serão servidas receitas especiais (R$ 5) com recheios exclusivos criados por quatro chefs convidados. Na terça, estará disponível o recheio de palmito-pupunha, quiabo e pimenta-de-cheiro, criado por Marcelo Bastos (do Jiquitaia). No dia seguinte, é a vez da carne-seca desfiada com requeijão do Norte, de Rodrigo Oliveira (do Mocotó). Pé de porco, pernil e batata serão combinados no recheio assinado por André Mifano (do Vito), na quinta. No último dia, sexta-feira, Carla Pernambuco (do Carlota) apresenta o recheio de frango "thai", com gengibre e molho de ostra. Até domingo, o bar também servirá caipirinhas harmonizadas com as coxinhas, em sabores como graviola e caju, physalis, e siriguela com tangerina espanhola (de R$ 18 a R$ 21). No domingo (29), data oficial do aniversário do Veloso, o bar lança o seu food truck que, por enquanto, ficará estacionado na frente do estabelecimento. | comida |
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] | Nesta quinta-feira (19) estreia o programa de gastronomia "The Taste Brasil" no canal GNT. O Brasil é o primeiro país da América Latina a obter os direitos de produção do reality show norte-americano. O programa terá 24 participantes iniciais que foram pré selecionados pela produtora, Moonshot Pictures, após um período de inscrição no site do canal. Cada candidato mandou um vídeo de 3 minutos falando sobre sua vida, fotos de pratos (de arquivo pessoal) e preencheu um questionário. No primeiro episódio, os 24 participantes serão reduzidos a 12 por meio de um processo seletivo no qual oferecerão aos jurados apenas uma colherada de seu prato. Para provar foram escalados os chefs Claude Troisgros, o franco-brasileiro à frente de vários restaurantes no Rio, como o Olympe, e apresentador de TV, Felipe Bronze, cuja cozinha molecular serve no Oro, também no Rio, e o paulistano André Mifano, do restaurante Vito, no qual busca servir pratos italianos com o máximo de ingredientes brasileiros possível. A avaliação é feita às cegas. De costas, os chefs decidirão os 12 candidatos que continuarão na disputa pelo prêmio de R$ 100 mil. Posteriormente, os participantes serão divididos em três equipes, cada uma comandada por um jurado, e enfrentarão duas provas por episódio. The Taste Brasil QUANDO quarta, às 22h30 ONDE GNT NÚMERO DE EPISÓDIOS 10 Os episódios inéditos vão ar de 19 de março a 21 de maio. | comida |
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] | A inspiração veio do chef francês Auguste Escoffier (1846-1935): se em 1912 o então "papa da gastronomia" serviu simultaneamente centenas de convidados em 37 cidades europeias, por que não repetir o feito? Desta vez, no entanto, o evento acontece em maior escala: na quinta-feira (19), cerca de 1,3 mil restaurantes, em 150 países, vão oferecer um jantar francês, com ingredientes do país europeu e seguindo o ritual de entradas (fria e quente), prato principal, queijo e, finalmente, sobremesa. No Brasil, 57 restaurantes de 16 cidades estão inscritas. Somente em São Paulo, são 18 menus disponíveis. As reservas são feitas diretamente no restaurante (a lista completa do país pode ser encontrada aqui: int.rendezvousenfrance.com/fr/gout-france-good-france ). Para o embaixador francês Denis Pietton, Brasil e França têm em comum o mesmo "prazer de estar a mesa". "E não é apenas de comer, mas também de falar sobre o que comemos. Na França, isso é muito forte, e os brasileiros são parecidos", disse à Folha. Não à toa, o Brasil é o segundo país com maior número de chefs envolvidos: perde apenas para a Itália. A megaoperação "Goût de France/Good France" quer não só promover a gastronomia do país mas, ao mesmo tempo, fugir do estereótipo sobre a culinária francesa. "A imagem tradicional - e que não é mais exata - é a de que é uma cozinha complicada, sofisticada e cara. E que, finalmente, é pouco acessível. É isso que queremos mudar", diz o diplomata. O cardápio dos restaurantes certamente vai contribuir para esse propósito: entre os pratos incluídos estão, por exemplo, carpaccio de melancia, pastel de steak tartare e salada de queijo de cabra. Os preços, no entanto, nem sempre: há menus com valores que chegam a R$ 250 por pessoa. Os preços foram definidos por cada estabelecimento e, em muitos casos, incluem harmonização com bebidas. Há opções mais em conta - L'Entrecote de Paris, no Itaim Bibi, por exemplo, tem um menu a R$ 65. SORVETE DE ESPUMANTE Para o francês Daniel Briand, proprietário de tradicional café de Brasília, a principal influência do país europeu sobre os trabalhos na cozinha se dá no ritual da preparação dos pratos. "A culinária ocidental foi muito influenciada pela francesa", avalia. Em seu menu, elaborado com a chef Alice Mesquita, estão previstos sete pratos. A sequência inclui um sorvete de espumante logo após os três primeiros. "É para abrir o apetite", diz. O jantar será servido apenas a 40 pessoas - todos os lugares já foram reservados. | comida |
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] | Depois de quase três anos, a chef Renata Braune retorna à cozinha de um restaurante -e faz isso em um novo contexto. Em seu La Reina Deli Bar, em Pinheiros, a palavra de ordem é "despretensão". Na casa, que abre as portas nesta sexta (20), as receitas francesas (praticadas por ela durante 18 anos no Chef Rouge) quase não aparecem. "É uma cozinha simples e gostosa, que lembra comida de tia, com a bagagem da minha vida: da infância no Rio e com resquícios do Chef Rouge", conta Renata. Para começar, há porções de croquetas como as de presunto serrano e alho-poró (R$ 24, a porção com oito) e de bolinhos como os de arroz, queijo e ervas (R$ 20, a porção com seis). Em seguida, podem vir sanduíches feitos com pães de fermentação natural e assados na casa ou pratos. Entre os "bocados", estão o pão com bife, ovo, vinagrete e alface (R$ 25) e o de carne de porco com chutney de abacaxi, gengibre e passas (R$ 23,50). Durante a semana, há pratos do dia a R$ 36 no almoço, sempre com uma salada de entrada (às sextas pode ser pedido o baby bife acebolado com fritas, arroz e feijão). Nos jantares e no fim de semana, a chef serve, por exemplo, o picadinho feito como o da mãe dela "o melhor que já comi", diz. Acompanhado de arroz, quibebe assada, farofa de ovo e banana grelhada, custa R$ 39. Na casa, com portão de ferro, tijolos aparentes e jardim com horta, funcionava antes uma pizzaria. O forno a lenha foi mantido –algumas carnes e a mandioca com manteiga de alho e ervas passam por lá. Além disso, saem da geladeira quitutes (bolinhos, tapenade, lula assada, frango thai) que podem ser levados para casa. La Reina Endereço r. Joaquim Antunes, 621, Pinheiros; tel. (11) 2366-0216; Horário de ter.a qui., das 12h às 17h30 e das 18h30 às 23h30; sex., das 12h às 17h30 e das 19h30 à 0h; sáb., das 13h às 17h e das 19h30 à 0h; dom., das 13h às 17h | comida |
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] | Para quem curte alimentação natural, uma tendência que vem crescendo a cada dia, o Banana Verde (Rua Harmonia, 278 - tel. 0/xx/11/3814-4828), restaurante vegetariano da chef Priscilla Herrera, localizado na Vila Madalena, agora conta com serviço de delivery na região. Dentre ... Leia post completo no blog | comida |
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] | Um grande incêndio iniciado na madrugada desta terça-feira devastou o famoso restaurante do premiado chef francês Marc Veyrat no vilarejo alpino de Manigod (centroeste), informo o corpo de bombeiros. Segundo as primeiras constatações, o fogo começou a se alastrar às 02h da manhã (23h de segunda, 16, no horário de Brasília) na lavanderia do "La Maison des Bois". Os bombeiros continuaram a tentar controlar as chamas que consumiam o telhado deste estabelecimento de luxo até a manhã desta terça-feira (17). "O fogo está apagado dentro do restaurante", indicaram bombeiros no local. De acordo com a polícia, que investiga o local para determinar a causa do incêndio, o fogo teria primeiro tomado a cozinha e a sala de jantar, onde a mobília de arte foi destruída. O fogo se espalhou rapidamente para o telhado da casa de madeira e pedra, construída a 1.800 metros acima do nível do mar na Croix-Fry, sobre as pastagens da família de Marc Veyrat. Sua estrutura "ainda está de pé", mas os danos foram significativos, disse a fonte. "É uma parte da herança cultural francesa que acaba de queimar", lamentou Marc Veyrat, dizendo estar "muito abalado". "Os especialistas acreditam que a origem do incêndio tenha sido elétrica", acrescentou. "Não era apenas um restaurante, mas também um museu de arte popular, onde estavam expostos móveis do patrimônio da região. É doloroso, mas eu sou um combatente. Eu vou voltar", assegurou o chef estrelado. Marc Veyrat acredita que precisará de "seis meses" para realizar as obras de reconstrução neste estabelecimento da rede Relais et Chateaux, inaugurado em 2013 após quatro anos afastado das cozinhas devido a um grave acidente de esqui. | comida |
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] | O gastrobar italiano Ciao! Vino & Birra oferecerá na quarta-feira (18) um menu especial com pratos típicos das regiões italianas do Piemonte e da Toscana. O cardápio, desenvolvido pelo chef Eduardo Vitelli, contará com risoto de fungui seco e pato, típico do Piemonte e parppadelle ao ragú de javali à moda da Toscana, entre outros pratos que serão harmonizados com vinhos apresentados pela sommelière Giuliana Ferreira, da importadora Casa Flora. Os clientes que reservarem lugares para o jantar poderão escolher vinhos que forem servidos para comprar e levar para casa com 25% de desconto. O jantar terá capacidade para 16 pessoas e vai custa R$ 185 por pessoa. Ciao! Vino & Birra ONDE R. Tutóia, 451; 2306-3541 QUANDO de terça a quinta, das 12h às 15h e das 18h às 23h; às sextas e sábados, das 12h às 15h e das 18h às 24h; aos domingos, das 12h às 16h | comida |
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] | Ninguém vai ao restaurante para contar calorias, diz o restaurateur Benny Goldenberg, do italiano Mangiare. O que se procura, nas palavras dele, é consumir "ingredientes de melhor qualidade e bem preparados". Isso, vez ou outra, pode ser uma armadilha. Fora de casa, a variedade de amostra é grande e, portanto, a tentação, maior. No restaurante, o cliente não sabe ao certo, por exemplo, quais os temperos usados, nem se há muito sódio, muito óleo ou muita manteiga, como sabe ao cozinhar em casa, alerta a professora de nutrição da Universidade Anhembi Morumbi, Fernanda Ferreira Corrêa. Nesta edição, o caderno "Comida" registrou cinco tipos de cozinha, seus ingredientes, modos de preparo e tamanhos de porções com um limite comum: 2.000 calorias, o indicado, em média, para um adulto saudável consumir por dia, de acordo com o Ministério da Saúde. Nutricionistas da RGNutri fizeram o cálculo de tudo isso com base em preparos clássicos e em tabelas de calorias e dão dicas de como ter prazer sem exagero. Nas imagens, é possível visualizar quanto e o que das culinárias árabe, brasileira, italiana, japonesa e americana (no caso, a junk food) formam um menu com esse número de calorias. Há de peso-pena a peso-pesado. CONTAR PARA QUÊ? Cheese-salada, fritas e milkshake podem somar as 2.000 calorias recomendadas para o dia todo; saiba 'quanto pesam' as receitas, entenda como diminuir o total da conta e faça as suas escolhas. Veja também sugestões de cardápios alternativos com cerca de 600 calorias –o indicado, pelo Ministério da Saúde, para uma refeição "principal" no dia, como almoço ou jantar. BRASILEIRA - Picadinho de carne (2 colheres de servir): 379 cal - Salada de folhas verdes temperadas com azeite: 82 cal - Polenta cremosa (2 col. de servir): 440 cal -Arroz integral (6 col. de sopa): 243 cal - Feijão carioca (1 concha): 67 cal - Farofa (1 colher de servir): 267 cal -Couve-manteiga no azeite com alho (1 pegador): 66 cal - Suco de limão (300 ml): 93 cal - Pudim de leite com calda de doce de leite (1 pedaço): 390 cal - Total: 2.027 cal MENOS CALORIAS >> Na cozinha brasileira, é comum reunir em um prato vários tipos de carboidrato (batata e arroz ou arroz e farofa, por exemplo); fique de olho >> As porções de proteína podem ser grandes demais; um bife deve ter o tamanho da palma da mão >> Bolinhos fritos são extremamente calóricos >> Doces à base de frutas podem ser sobremesas mais leves * AMERICANA - Batata frita (1 porção grande de 140 g): 420 cal - Cheese-salada (1 unidade): 1.045 cal - Milkshake de chocolate (1 taça de 450 ml): 555 cal - Total: 2.020 cal MENOS CALORIAS >> Deixar as fritas de lado é um bom começo >> Adicionar molhos ao sanduíche pode ser desnecessário; eles geralmente já estão "úmidos" >> Milkshakes são bebidas bastante calóricas, procure evitá-los >> Opte por hambúrgueres menores, com cerca de 100 g * JAPONESA - Sushis variados e sashimis (30 unidades): 940 cal - Temaki de salmão (1 unidade): 214 cal - Guioza frito (5 unidades): 523 cal - Saquê (dose de 50 ml): 11 cal - Sorvete de creme (2 bolas): 347 cal - Total: 2.035 MENOS CALORIAS >> Substitua o guioza frito pelo cozido no vapor e evite hot rolls (empanados) >> Para controlar a quantidade, peça um combinado com número determinado de unidades * ÁRABE - Pão árabe (1 unidade): 138 cal - Kibe assado (1 pedaço grande de 200 g): 269 cal - Coalhada seca (1/2 porção): 122 cal. Hommus (1/2 porção): 243 cal - Esfiha fechada de carne (1 unidade): 116 cal - Arroz com lentilhas (5 col. de sopa): 245 cal - Salada árabe, com tomate e cebola (5 col. de sopa): 357 cal - Azeite (2 col. de sopa): 144 cal - Suco de tangerina (300 ml): 112 cal - Doce ataif, com ricota e nozes (2 unidades): 248 cal - Total: 1.994 cal MENOS CALORIAS >> Os temperos (e o azeite) que adicionamos nas receitas aumenta significativamente o valor calórico >> Há boas alternativas às frituras, como quibe assado e charuto de uva >> Sobremesas árabes podem ser calóricas, mas geralmente são pequenas * ITALIANA - Espaguete ao molho carbonara, com ovo, bacon e queijo (1 prato fundo): 1.107 cal - Pão italiano (2 fatias) com sardela (3 col. de sopa): 263 cal - Vinho tinto (1 taça): 125 cal - Tiramisù (1 pedaço): 512 cal - Total: 2.007 cal MENOS CALORIAS >> Como entrada, não é preciso pedir uma salada, mas evite muito pão >> Os molhos à base de tomate são sempre menos calóricos e gordurosos se comparados aos brancos e aos com queijos >> Controle a quantidade de queijo ralado Agradecimentos: BETH COZINHA DE ESTAR r. Pedroso Alvarenga, 1.061, Itaim Bibi; tel. (11) 3073-0354 JOAKIN'S r. Joaquim Floriano, 163, Itaim Bibi, tel. (11) 3168-0030 MANGIARE av. Imperatriz Leopoldina, 681, Vila Leopoldina; tel. (11) 3034-5074 MORI SUSHI OHTA r. da Consolação, 3.610, Cerqueira César; tel. (11) 3898-2977 SAJ r. Girassol, 523, Vila Madalena; tel. (11) 3032-5939 * COMPARE Quanto de cada alimento corresponde a 2.000 cal?* 29 bananas pratas 16 porções de 100 g de arroz branco 13 pães franceses 6 porções de 100 g de doce de leite cremoso 7 bifes de 100 g de picanha 14 latas de cerveja Fonte: Tabela Brasileira de Composição de Alimentos, da Unicamp * valores médios | comida |
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] | Será aberto neste sábado (14), no shopping Iguatemi, o espaço em que funcionarão o restaurante Manioca e o Café Manioca, dos chefs Helena Rizzo e Daniel Redondo. Dentro da Livraria Cultura, terá entrada por ela (é preciso atravessá-la para chegar à casa) e por uma escada que sai do bulevar. O lugar tem vista para a copa das árvores do shopping, mesas de madeira e parede de tijolo aparente. O primeiro a ser aberto será o café, no sábado, com belisquetes, saladas, lanches e doces. São exemplos a porção de bolinhos de tapioca com carne-seca e requeijão (R$ 28) e o hambúrguer na brasa com gruyère, tomate confitado, rúcula e maionese de bacon, acompanhado de fritas ou salada (R$ 41). No dia 20, começa a funcionar o restaurante, com cardápio casual, elaborado pelos chefs Daniel Redondo e Marcelo Almeida (que trabalha com Redondo desde 2008). O menu inclui clássicos do Maní, como o talharim de pupunha ao molho parmesão (R$ 51) e opções como a costela de porco cozida a baixa temperatura com batatas rústicas e cebola na brasa (R$ 47) e a coxa e sobrecoxa de frango com pamonha assada (R$ 38). O cardápio informa que as carnes são sempre finalizadas em um forno a carvão. O restaurante e o café funcionarão todos os dias da semana. Restaurante Manioca Iguatemi Onde av. Brig. Faria Lima, 2.232, Jardim Paulistano Horário de seg. a qui., das 11h30 às 15h30 e das 19h às 23h30; sex., 11h30 às 16h30 e das 19h à 0h; sáb., das 12h à 0h; dom., das 13h às 23h Café Manioca Horário de seg. a sáb., das 10h até o horário de fechamento do restaurante; dom., das 13h às 23h | comida |
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] | Os fãs da série de TV norte-americana "Mad Men" poderão ficar um pouco mais próximos do cotidiano de Dan Draper por alguns dias. Entre 23 e 29 deste mês, 34 restaurantes de Nova York oferecerão o "Mad Men Dining Week", em que cada um dos estabelecimentos servirá refeições inspiradas no período em que o seriado é ambientado, os anos 1960. Os pratos do evento, que comemora o lançamento da última temporada da série, terão preço fixo de US$ 19,69 (R$ 61,62), de acordo com a emissora de televisão "AMC" e a empresa oficial de turismo da cidade, NYC & Company. Além das refeições, os restaurantes também poderão escolher entre dois cardápios de drinques e entrada ou de entrada e sobremesa e contar com bebidas, como o famoso martíni com uma azeitona no copo. Estabelecimentos como 21 Club, P.J.Clarke's e Delmonico's são alguns dos participantes. | comida |
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] | Um dos bairros que mais tem recebido novos e interessantes restaurantes que fogem dos Jardins e redondezas é o Campo Belo, como atesta a recente abertura do Margot Bistrot, casa simpática de cozinha eclética. Não existe exatamente, no bairro, um centro catalisador dos novos empreendimentos –e não sendo uma área limitada, os custos com aluguéis ainda não deve estar limitando a abertura dessas casas. O Margot, como a maioria, ocupa uma antiga residência reformada para este fim. No caso, pouco sobrou da casa, a não ser a enorme árvore do quintal, cujo tronco se avista até que encontre a cobertura transparente que de dia inunda a área de luz natural. Na entrada fica um pequeno café. Toda decoração lembra um ambiente caseiro, com objetos de bricabraque. Na cozinha está a chef-proprietária Yasmine Bahiense, mineira de 36 anos que, depois de formar-se em gastronomia em 2003, deu algumas voltas pela Europa (o que incluiu uma passagem pelo Martín Berasategui, no país Basco) e, em São Paulo, pelo D.O.M. e pelo Lola Bistrô. Os últimos anos foram dedicados ao projeto do Margot, que abraçou com o marido e sócio Marcos Matos, 36 –ele vendeu sua parte numa empresa, em 2011, para que ambos se dedicassem a erguer o restaurante, inaugurado em outubro passado. Com o marido recebendo no salão, Yasmine faz pratos que tanto podem evocar suas vivências europeias quanto referências brasileiras. Ainda não existe um perfil muito nítido na sua cozinha, que reflete espontaneamente gostos pessoais, mas com resultado, no geral, reconfortante. No almoço há pratos mais em conta e menu-executivo, que pode conter desde um gostoso e mineirinho frango com quiabo e polenta cremosa, até um seco e sem graça baião-de-dois (arroz, feijão fradinho, cubinhos de filé, bacon e queijo coalho). No jantar, pratos mais elaborados incluem um tenro (mas firme) polvo grelhado com batatas ao murro, folhas de espinafre fritas, chips de alho e páprica picante; o confit de pato com purê de batata doce e redução de vinho do porto (bom, mas ressecado no momento de mandar à mesa); uma instigante salada morna de lulas grelhadas (no ponto) com rúcula selvagem e molho tailandês (levemente picante); e uma costela de boi com purê de cará, ervilhas tortas e melaço de cana. Entre as poucas sobremesas, vale provar o pudim de tapioca com baba de moça. MARGOT BISTROT - regular ENDEREÇO r. Antonio de Macedo Soares, 1.683, Campo Belo, tel. (11) 2309-9515 HORÁRIO dom. e ter, das 11h30 às 17h; qua a sáb, das 11h30 às 15h e das 17h à 0h AMBIENTE café na entrada, e salão rústico com cobertura de vidro SERVIÇO tem a supervisão permanente do proprietário no salão VINHOS oferta modesta PREÇOS entradas, R$ 24 a R$ 38; pratos principais, R$ 44 a R$ 73; sobremesas, R$ 19 a R$ 23; menu-executivo, R$ 46 | comida |
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] | Na mesa de lanchonetes, a bisnaga de ketchup é onipresente, para acompanhar sanduíches e batatas fritas. Mas tem gente do lado de lá do balcão em algumas casas de São Paulo que, não satisfeita em servir uma versão industrial, resolveu criar sua própria receita. "Não que as industriais sejam ruins, elas têm qualidade. Mas eu queria brincar com toques e sabores mais pessoais", diz a chef Daniela França Pinto, que criou o ketchup do restaurante Cortés. Lá, a ideia inicial era ter um barbecue para acompanhar cortes suínos. "Mas é um molho de sabor mais chapado." Depois de ao menos dez testes, Daniela optou por um ketchup mais adocicado, com açúcar mascavo, goiabada e especiarias. "As experiências são como a de uma família criando sua masala [mistura de especiarias indiana]." Criar versões que combinem mais com cada receita foi também a ideia de Pablo Muniz, da lanchonete Tigre Cego. "O melhor é fazer bastante extrato de tomate e separar pequenas quantidades para experimentar aos poucos e brincar com os sabores", sugere ele, que já testou mais de dez combinações. Ele desenvolveu ao menos três receitas: uma com tomate, para os sanduíches de carne bovina; outra de pimentão, que vai bem com frutos do mar; e um terceiro, sazonal, com tomate, sucos de laranja e de abacaxi, que combina com carne de porco. Para Flavia Strumpf, da marca que leva seu sobrenome, a maior característica desse peculiar molho de tomate é a versatilidade. "Ele pode ser neutro, picante, defumado. Apesar de cada tipo ter uma harmonização, todos vão bem com qualquer coisa." Seu ketchup, vendido em empórios, também é oferecido por lugares como a lanchonete Underdog; nas próximas semanas, vai chegar a casas a exemplo do Le Jazz e da Lanchonete da Cidade. DA ANCHOVA AO TOMATE O ketchup, acredita-se, surgiu na China no século 16, como uma mistura de caldo de peixe, sal, soja e vinagre usada para conservar carnes. Navegadores espalharam a receita pela Ásia, onde foram acrescidos itens como anchova, cogumelos e raspas de limão, sempre para conservar alimentos (ou disfarçar itens estragados). Séculos depois, na Europa, ela ganhou ingredientes como caldo de legumes, açúcar, gengibre, noz-moscada. Da Inglaterra aos Estados Unidos, que viviam tempos de megassafras de tomate, o molho ganhou o extrato desse fruto. Em meados do século 19 nasceram os primeiros ketchups industriais semelhantes aos que comemos hoje. "Mas dá para dizer que ele nunca perdeu a característica original, de ser uma conserva", diz Fernando Mainardi, do food truck Hot D.O.C. ACERTE NA RECEITA >> A mistura consagrada pelos americanos e espalhada pelo mundo leva tomate, vinagre, sal, cebola, alho, especiarias (como páprica e canela) e um elemento doce, que pode ser açúcar, xarope de milho ou mel >> Frutas –como tamarindo, goiaba e laranja– e outros vegetais, como pimentão, também podem entrar na receita >> Tomates verdes e amarelos rendem molhos mais ácidos; os mais maduros dão equilíbrio no sabor e uma cor mais viva >> Para pratos gordurosos, como carne de porco, prefira versões mais ácidas; em carnes suaves, como peixes e frutos do mar, a receita pode ser mais doce Confira receita de ketchup do restaurante Cortés QUEM FAZ CORTÉS ONDE shopping Villa-Lobos, av. das Nações Unidas, 4.777; tel. (11) 3024-4301 COM O QUÊ assado de tira (R$ 57); o vidro: R$ 14 (250 ml) HOT D.O.C. ONDE itinerante; programação em facebook.com/hotdocs COM O QUÊ cachorro-quente clássico (R$ 16) TIGRE CEGO ONDE r. Girassol, 654; tel. (11) 3586-8370 COM O QUÊ o de pimentão no sanduíche de siri (R$ 30); o de tomate no brisket (sanduíche com peito bovino, R$ 34) STRUMPF ONDE em mercados (St Marche, por R$ 14,90) e restaurantes (Le Jazz, Lanchonete da Cidade) | comida |
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] | As prateleiras de cerveja de mercados e empórios passaram por uma mudança. Antes ocupadas por bebidas de grandes marcas, agora dividem espaço com artesanais. Pois o momento dessas empresas de pequeno porte –que ainda respondem por estimados cerca de 1% do setor de cervejas no país, mas crescem em torno de 30% ao ano– é mesmo especialmente positivo. O setor está tão aquecido que, no começo de fevereiro deste ano, a gigante Ambev anunciou a compra da microcervejaria mineira Wäls –e a criação de uma nova empresa, para unir a marca artesanal à Bohemia. Um outro movimento recente da chamada "revolução cervejeira" é o de pequenas marcas brasileiras desenvolverem receitas especiais em parceria com empresas estrangeiras de mesmo porte. Os mestres-cervejeiros, porém, advertem: isso não deve ser visto pelo lado negativo, como complexo de vira-lata. Primeiro porque, dizem, na maioria dos casos, são as cervejarias artesanais de fora que procuram as daqui para propor a parceria –reflexo do crescimento brasileiro. Além disso, elas vêm de mercados nos quais a "revolução" já é realidade, como os Estados Unidos, onde esse nicho representa cerca de 14% do setor, segundo a Brewers, a associação americana de cervejas artesanais. Nas prateleiras brasileiras, isso significa mais opções para o cliente com o DNA de marcas que têm mais anos de estrada e acesso mais fácil a uma gama variada de maltes e lúpulos, insumos básicos da bebida que aqui são em geral importados ou produzidos em escala experimental. É como se um chef estrelado, com vasto conhecimento e acesso a produtos nobres, viesse fazer um menu com um cozinheiro em ascensão. FESTIVAL NACIONAL Para celebrar e dar espaço a essas bebidas artesanais, foi criado o Festival Brasileiro da Cerveja, cuja sexta edição vai de 11 a 14 de março, em Blumenau (SC). Ele servirá de palco para ao menos seis lançamentos das chamadas cervejas colaborativas –como a Curitiba Pale Ale, parceria entre a paranaense Bodebrown e a inglesa Adnams. "O interesse estrangeiro pela nossa cerveja só cresce porque eles nos veem trilhando o mesmo caminho e sabem que, além de um mercado consumidor promissor, temos um leque imenso de ingredientes", diz o beer sommelier Mauricio Beltramelli. Por isso, as colaborativas costumam levar itens como uvaia (fruta), rapadura, cachaça e pimenta-rosa. O benefício de trocar experiências com quem já tem mais anos de brassagem ajuda, de acordo com os cervejeiros, nos rótulos seguintes que a marca brasileira vai fazer com as próprias pernas. "Nós bombardeamos os estrangeiros de perguntas e implementamos mudanças imediatas, como no tempo de repouso do lúpulo no mosto", diz Guilherme Hoffman, da Cervejaria Nacional, que já fez receitas com a alemã Paulaner e a americana Odell. SAISON DE CAIPIRA é o rótulo originado da parceria entre a mineira Wäls, fundada em 1999, e a americana Brooklyn, instalada desde 1988 em Nova York SIX O'CLOCK é a filha da união da Invicta, criada em 2011 em Ribeirão Preto (SP), com a americana SixPoint, de 2004; a Invicta também já lançou a Saison à Trois ao lado da carioca 2Cabeças YBA-IÁ é o nome da cerveja criada entre a Colorado, de Ribeirão Preto (desde 1996), e a norueguesa Nøgne Ø (de 2002); neste ano, a Colorado lança ainda outra colaborativa ao lado da belga St-Feuillien HELLO MY NAME IS ZÉ é a parceria da carioca 2Cabeças, criada em 2012, com a inglesa BrewDog, também de 2012 e que conta com um bar próprio em SP EXTRA FANCY IPA é o resultado da união entre a gaúcha Tupiniquim (de 2013) com a dinamarquesa EvilTwin (de 2010); a Tupiniquim também já fez o rótulo Saison de Caju com a americana Stillwater OUTRAS COLABORATIVAS >> A mineira Backer e a americana Three Weavers criaram a linha Las Mafiosas, que será lançado neste mês >> Já a paranaense Bodebrown e a inglesa Adnams lançam a Curitiba Pale Ale no Festival Brasileiro da Cerveja * MAS O QUE SIGNIFICA SER ARTESANAL? Cerveja artesanal não tem esse nome por não usar maquinário industrial, mas por ter escala pequena (até 600 milhões de litros/ano, segundo a associação americana; no Brasil, o patamar é mais baixo: a Colorado, por exemplo, produz cerca de 1,5 milhão de litros/ano) e carga mais alta de malte, que leva a uma complexidade maior de sabores. | comida |
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] | A primeira etapa de 2015 da Expedição Fartura Gastronomia (antigamente conhecida como Expedição Brasil Gastronômico), que pretende desvendar a culinária das diversas regiões do país, começa nesta sexta-feira (6) pelos Estados de Goiás, Tocantins e Pará. A segunda parte da viagem ocorre em maio e passa por Piauí e Maranhão. A cada etapa da expedição há um chef convidado para as atividades. Em Goiás, estará Carlos Kristensen, de Porto Alegre; no Tocantins, Rodrigo Oliveira, de São Paulo; e no Pará, Lia Quinderé, de Fortaleza. Entre os temas trabalhados na primeira etapa estão o cultivo do baru, produção de licores com frutos do cerrado, galinhada com pequi, preparo de cabeças de boi e carne de búfala. A expedição é um projeto do Fartura, organização que nasceu no Festival de Gastronomia e Cultura de Tiradentes –este acontece há 17 anos na pequena cidade de Minas Gerais. O projeto visa a valorização da gastronomia por meio de pesquisas, viagens e eventos. Esta é a quarta edição da expedição, que já percorreu mais de 17 Estados e 48 mil km. Após a conclusão do percurso, será editado um livro e um documentário, com relatos de todos os produtores visitados, além dos chefs que acompanharam cada etapa –incluindo receitas feitas por eles, utilizando os ingredientes de cada local. No ano passado, o livro sobre a expedição foi vencedor da categoria gastronomia na 56ª edição do Prêmio Jabuti. Para apresentar o resultado final, o Fartura promoverá eventos em quatro cidades, a partir de junho: Fortaleza, Belo Horizonte, Porto Alegre e Tiradentes –durante o festival anual da cidade. | comida |
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] | COLABORATIVAS Os filhotes, degustados pelo nosso colunista de cervejas, Sandro Macedo 6 O'CLOCK Aromas cítricos e amargor acentuado, cortesia dos lúpulos americanos, típicos em outras Sixpoint QUANTO R$ 26,20 (500 ml), na Cerveja Gourmet (tel. 11/3675-0761) EXTRA FANCY IPA Mistura três lúpulos numa cerveja leve e menos amarga que outras do gênero. Aroma de maracujá QUANTO R$ 19 (310 ml), na BrewDog (tel. 11/ 3032-4007) YBA-IÁ Mais complexa que as outras Colorado, essa leva aveia e trigo, que lhe dá sabor mais ácido QUANTO R$ 22 (600 ml), na Cervejoteca (tel. 11/5084-6047) HELLO MY NAME IS ZÉ Ótima combinação do lúpulo da BrewDog com o maracujá da 2Cabeças. Aromática e amarga QUANTO R$ 19,99 (330 ml), na BeerShop (beershop.com.br) SAISON DE CAIPIRA Feita com adição de cana-de-açúcar, tem sabor levemente avinagrado, lembrando uma lambic QUANTO R$ 25 (375 ml), no Empório Frei Caneca (tel. 11/3472-2082) A CERVEJA EM SEIS PASSOS 1. MALTAGEM Os grãos (cevada e outros cereais) são molhados para liberar açúcares e aquecidos para germinar e virar malte; dias depois, o processo é interrompido secando o malte no forno 2. MOAGEM Os grãos são quebrados para facilitar a liberação de açúcares na brassagem; grãos bem torrados dão cervejas escuras; grãos subtorrados, cervejas claras 3. BRASSAGEM Os grãos maltados são mergulhados em água quente para produzir um líquido doce chamado mosto; no processo, os amidos dos grãos são convertidos em açúcar 4. FERVURA O mosto é fervido; adiciona-se o lúpulo. A fervura esteriliza o mosto e faz com que o lúpulo libere aromas e amargor; nessa etapa, podem ser adicionadas frutas 5. FERMENTAÇÃO O mosto coado e resfriado (até cerca de 20°C) é levado ao recipiente de fermentação, onde a levedura é adicionada; por uma semana, os açúcares viram álcool 6. MATURAÇÃO O líquido vai para outro recipiente, onde, num descanso, aromas e sabores são melhorados; depois, a bebida é envasada | comida |
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] | Para o trânsito angustiante da avenida Francisco Morato, há dois refúgios. O chinês Ton Hoi tem até vista para o congestionamento. Seu cardápio extenso tem alguns queridinhos. "Esse wonton não tem igual", diz o cliente da mesa ao lado. A porção com dez "pasteizinhos" recheados custa R$ 29,30. A massa frita chega à mesa pururucada, despedaça na boca e revela o recheio bem úmido de carne bovina, que queima a língua. Os pratos principais são fartos, para dividir. O macarrão feito na casa assume muitas formas. Entre elas, a com chop suey. "Bem fritinho" (como diz o garçom), é servido dourado e crocante, com tiras de carnes bovina e suína, camarão e frango, além de brócolis al dente, acelga e repolho (R$ 40, para dois). Perto de lá (mais escondida), a Torteria tem cardápio (e balcão) com quiches e tortas que dão inveja a muitos quituteiros. No almoço executivo, a torta do dia (pode ser a quiche de cogumelos e queijo) com salada verde e granola salgada custa R$ 23,50. A loja também aceita encomendas e vende tortas inteiras. TON HOI ENDEREÇO av. Professor Francisco Morato, 1.484; tel. (11) 3721-3268 HORÁRIO ter., das 12h às 14h30; qua. a sáb., das 12h às 14h30 e das 19h30 às 22h OUTRA SUGESTÃO costeleta com melado de gengibre (R$ 54) TORTERIA ENDEREÇO r. dos Três Irmãos, 654, Vila Progredior; tel. (11) 2935-0886 HORÁRIO seg. a sex., das 10h às 20h; sáb., das 10h às 18h; dom., das 10h às 15h OUTRA SUGESTÃO torta de carne com cebola, parmesão e cerveja (R$ 17, o pedaço) | comida |
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] | Começou nesta semana e vai até o dia 31 de maio o defeso do camarão, período de paralisação da pesca que visa a preservação da espécie. Até o final de maio, a pesca de arrasto motorizado dos camarões branco, rosa, santana, sete barbas, entre outros, é proibida. O objetivo é promover a recuperação do estoque pesqueiro e evitar a extinção da espécie. Durante o período, os consumidores devem dar preferência a pescados e frutos do mar liberados nesta época, como mexilhões, ostras, vieiras, siris e diversos peixes. Quem não abre mão do camarão, pode consumir os crustáceos capturados antes do defeso, congelados e com declaração de estoque do comerciante. DEFESO O Defeso do Camarão é regulamentado pela Instrução Normativa IBAMA nº189 de 2008. Segundo ela, o desembarque das espécies mencionadas será tolerado somente até o segundo dia corrido após o início do defeso. A cadeia produtiva, que inclui pessoas físicas ou jurídicas responsáveis pela captura, conservação, beneficiamento, industrialização, comercialização e transporte de camarões, deverá declarar à Superintendência Estadual do IBAMA, uma relação detalhada do estoque das espécies existentes, indicando os locais de armazenamento. Quem for flagrado desrespeitando o período de defeso poderá ser processado por crime ambiental e estará sujeito a multa cujo valor varia de acordo com a quantidade de camarão, além da apreensão dos equipamentos de pesca. | comida |
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] | Estão abertas as inscrições para a edição 2015 do festival gastronômico Sabor de SP, evento que busca revelar talentos da culinária paulista, destacando a tradição, o preparo e os ingredientes típicos de cada região do Estado. Para se cadastrar, o participante deve ser criativo na receita, utilizar ingredientes locais e possuir CNPJ para comercialização do produto. A inscrição online é gratuita e deve ser feita no site sabordesaopaulo.com.br. Serão selecionadas 10 receitas pela Secretaria de Turismo e pela revista "Prazeres da Mesa". Depois, os candidatos escolhidos levarão seus pratos para degustação pública na etapa da região, de onde serão escolhidos quatro finalistas para a última etapa do programa, que ocorre em São Paulo. A final deve reunir 60 pratos típicos, que poderão ser comercializados em uma grande feira gastronômica na capital paulista. Ao todo, serão 15 etapas por todo o Estado, e cada uma delas contará com um chef de cozinha como padrinho. A primeira etapa, em março, ocorre em Sorocaba. O chef dessa edição será João Belezia. | comida |
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] | Estreiam, nesta semana, um programa e cinco novas temporadas ligadas a gastronomia no canal GNT. Nesta segunda (2) vai ao ar o primeiro episódio do reality show "Food Truck - A Batalha", às 19h30. Na competição, comandada por Marcio Silva (Buzina) e Adolfo Schaefer (Holypasta Foodtruck), duas equipes sairão nos trucks do programa pelas ruas de São Paulo, para tentar vender suas criações culinárias. A equipe que vender mais vence a disputa e leva também o dinheiro arrecadado pela equipe perdedora. O programa tem 30 episódios, que vão ao ar de segunda a sexta. Às 20h30, vai ao ar o primeiro episódio da quarta temporada de "Cozinha Prática", em que Rita Lobo traz à mesa a comida caseira que nos lembra os almoços em família na casa da avó. Começa na terça (3), às 20h30, a nova temporada de "Bela Cozinha", em que Bela Gil, especialista em alimentação natural, recebe convidados famosos para provar suas receitas. A atriz Fernanda Montenegro e o chef Claude Troisgros participam do primeiro episódio. A segunda temporada de "Receitas da Carolina" estreia na quarta (4). Nele, a atriz Carolina Ferraz dá receitas simples e práticas que renovam o cardápio do dia a dia. Vai ao ar às 20h30. Na quinta (5) estreiam novas temporadas de "Tempero de Família", com Rodrigo Hilbert, às 20h30, e "Diário de Olivier", do chef Olivier Anquier (às 21h). Hilbert passará por bairros reconhecidos por suas colônias de imigrantes em São Paulo e Anquier segue explorando sabores da América Latina. Nesta temporada, ele vai percorrer as serras brasileiras mostrando pratos típicos. Em duas semanas, estreia o "The Taste Brasil", reality de culinária com os chefs Claude Troisgros, Felipe Bronze e André Mifano. No primeiro episódio (19/3 às 22h30), um processo seletivo resultará na escolha dos 12 participantes da competição. Eles vão ter que mostrar seus talentos em apenas uma colherada e convencer os jurados que merecem continuar na disputa. | comida |
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] | No forno a lenha, onde gira lentamente no rolete por 2h30 a 250°C, o leitão à bairrada adquire a casquinha dourada e crocante que lhe é peculiar. O tempero, à base de banha suína, vinho branco e pimenta-do-reino, é costurado dentro da carcaça, para impregnar toda a carne. Já fatiado no prato, lembra o pururuca mineiro, mas sem as bolhas da fritura –e, apesar de ser uma das receitas mais tradicionais de Portugal desde o século 18, permanece uma iguaria praticamente desconhecida do brasileiro. No Rancho Português, no Itaim Bibi, uma das únicas casas da cidade a manter o prato no cardápio, são assados cerca de 500 leitões por mês. A porção para duas pessoas, com salada, laranja e batata frita em rodelas, custa R$ 139 –o animal inteiro, para viagem, sai por R$ 520. "O leitão é o nosso principal prato, mas o bacalhau aparece em cerca de 20 receitas e representa 60% dos pedidos", afirma o gerente-geral Aragão de Melo. Bacalhau não virou sinônimo de comida portuguesa no Brasil por acaso. A longa vida útil do peixe, seco e salgado –passo fundamental para que pudesse enfrentar a travessia do Atlântico–, é apenas uma das razões para isso. Mas os ventos estão mudando. A cidade tem cada vez mais estabelecimentos de ambiente despojado, que se aproximam das tascas de lá, endereços para o dia a dia onde a oferta de carnes, frutos do mar e outros peixes é tão variada quanto a de pratos de bacalhau. Depois do Chiado, de 2013, cujo consultor é Carlos Bettencourt (do sofisticado A Bela Sintra), veio o Gajos, aberto em outubro, onde um dos pedidos é o bitoque, prato popular em Portugal e ali rebatizado de bife à portuguesa. A inauguração mais recente ocorreu neste mês, com a Taberna da Esquina, no Itaim Bibi. A casa, cujo cardápio foca em petiscos para compartilhar, pertence ao chef português Vitor Sobral, também da Tasca da Esquina, aberta em 2011 nos Jardins. Quatro anos depois de se estabelecer por aqui, Sobral –um dos mais respeitados e premiados profissionais de Portugal– confessa que, no começo, teve embates frequentes com a clientela, que estranhava o menu elaborado à imagem e semelhança da matriz lisboeta. "Todos queriam mais do mesmo. E alegavam que eu não sabia fazer bacalhau." Persistente, ele viu o número de clientes da Tasca subir dos minguados oito por dia para os atuais 150. Já na Taberna, o salão para 80 pessoas tem estado cheio no almoço e no jantar –e o bacalhau aparece em apenas 9 das 29 receitas. Enxuto, o menu é uma amostra de itens que não faltam à mesa portuguesa no dia a dia: carne suína, cordeiro, javali, peixe, frutos do mar, conservas e embutidos. "Portugal é um país pequeno, mas com diversidade cultural muito grande", afirma Vitor. "É um mundo de receitas, dos ricos e dos pobres, do interior e da costa." * DE RAIZ Ingredientes e receitas típicas portuguesas e onde comê-las AÇORDA Receita à base de pão que adquire textura pastosa quando misturada a peixe ou frutos do mar e a um caldo de temperos ONDE COMER Tasca da Esquina (al. Itu, 225, Jardim Paulista, tel. 11/3141-1149; açorda de camarão, R$ 66) BITOQUE OU PREGO Bife de carne bovina, geralmente servido dentro do pão ou no prato, sob um ovo frito ONDE COMER Espírito Santo (av. Horácio Lafer, 634, Itaim Bibi, tel. 11/3078-7748; no pão, R$ 24,50) BOLO DE ARROZ Criado para driblar a falta de farinha de trigo, tem massa com ovos, leite, manteiga e açúcar (com o tempo, a farinha entrou) ONDE COMER B.Lem Portuguese Bakery (r. Afonso Braz, 400, Vila Nova Conceição, tel. 11/2614-3933; porção individual, R$ 4,90) BORREGO É o cordeiro, mais comum em Portugal do que a carne bovina. "As vacas eram mais usadas para a produção de leite e o trabalho no campo", conta Vitor Sobral ONDE COMER Tasca do Zé e da Maria (r. dos Pinheiros, 434, Pinheiros, tel. 11/3062-5722; paleta de cordeiro servida com arroz e feijão-branco, R$ 79) CABRITO Tem carne mais magra e escura que o cordeiro. Com menos gordura, exige cozimento maior ONDE COMER Quinta de Santa Maria (r. Cerro Corá, 1.598, Lapa, tel. 11/3022-2499; carré de cabrito ao molho de vinho do Porto com batatas e brócolis, R$ 74) DOBRADA À MODA DO PORTO Tema de poema de Fernando Pessoa, é um cozido que mistura embutidos, feijão e legumes ONDE COMER Chiado (av. Jurucê, 776, Moema, tel. 11/5041-5276; leva mocotó, chouriço, costelinha e feijão-branco e é servida somente às sextas e aos sábados, R$ 47) ENCHIDOS É como os portugueses chamam os embutidos. Entre eles, destaca-se a alheira. Originalmente à base de carne bovina, aves e pão, hoje já incorpora carne suína ONDE COMER Taberna da Esquina (r. Bandeira Paulista, 812, Itaim Bibi, tel. 11/3167-6491; alheira com quiabos e cenoura, R$ 19,50) FEIJOCA O grão, maior que o de feijão, lembra a nossa fava. Como não é encontrado por aqui, costuma ser substituído pela fava verde ONDE COMER Chiado (av. Jurucê, 776, Moema, tel. 11/5041-5276; favas verdes com alheira, R$ 33) LEITE-CREME É o creme brûlé português, com a mesma casquinha caramelizada com maçarico (ou somente polvilhado com canela) ONDE COMER Taberna da Esquina (r. Bandeira Paulista, 812, Itaim Bibi, tel. 11/3167-6491; porção individual, R$ 16) SARDINHA NA BRASA O peixe, muito apreciado em Portugal, vai à mesa com limão ONDE COMER Adega Santiago (r. Sampaio Vidal, 1072, Jardim Paulistano, tel. 11/3081-5211; quatro sardinhas assadas, R$ 41) TAMBORIL Conhecido no Brasil como peixe-sapo, costuma ser cozido com vinho, batatas e outros frutos do mar na cataplana, tipo de panela de cobre. Outra receita bastante popular é o arroz de tamboril ONDE COMER Gajos (al. dos Arapanés, 1307, Moema, tel. 11/5543-9749; arroz de tamboril, R$ 48) | comida |
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] | Não é apenas o nome do parisiense Le Pario que remete ao encontro entre Paris e Rio. A música que embala as refeições é a bossa; o mosaico do calçadão de Copacabana está reproduzido nas paredes e na borda dos pratos. Aos sábados, o menu tem feijoada completa. Apesar das referências, o chef Eduardo Jacinto, 36, que passou na semana passada por Florianópolis como convidado do festival Gastro na Ilha, faz questão de frisar que sua casa é um legítimo bistrô. "Quero ser conhecido como um brasileiro que cozinha como um francês", diz ele, que abriu o lugar em outubro de 2013 e, meses depois, estreou na lista "Bib Gourmand" do "Michelin", classificação destinada "às melhores mesas com bons preços". Discípulo de um importante nome da gastronomia francesa, o chef Christian Constant, com quem trabalhou por nove anos, o catarinense aposta em pitadas tropicais que se traduzem, por exemplo, num bobó desconstruído, opção com bacalhau, camarões e leite de coco (€ 17). Receitas como essa chamaram a atenção dos inspetores do "Michelin", que definiram a cozinha como "fina e equilibrada". A publicação "Le Fooding refere-se ao lugar como "sério e sem frescuras". Jacinto credita os elogios à temporada ao lado de Constant. O brasileiro conheceu o francês em 2003, quando ainda era universitário, num evento em São Paulo. "No último dia, criei coragem e perguntei a ele se podia ser seu estagiário na França", conta. "Ele me respondeu: 'Estagiário, não. Vou contratá-lo." Seis meses depois, Jacinto chegou a Paris para atuar no Le Violon d'Ingres (uma estrela "Michelin"). Em seis meses, galgou posições até ser promovido a chef de outra casa de Constant; em 2006, virou sócio do Café Constant, frequentado por famosos como a atriz Gloria Pires. Em 2012, abriu o Le Pario, no qual investiu € 800 mil, valor ainda não totalmente recuperado. Mesmo assim, analisa abrir uma versão do Le Pario dentro de uma vinícola e pensa em montar sua primeira unidade brasileira no Rio, com o ator Rafael Cardoso (da novela "Império"). "Quero fazer no Brasil o que faço em Paris: gastronomia com produtos de qualidade a preços corretos." | comida |
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] | Cozinha aberta para o salão, cardápio escrito a giz nas paredes, chefs jovens e tatuados, rock dos anos 1960 na trilha sonora. Aberto em outubro do ano passado, o Silo parece mais um restaurante moderninho na charmosa cidade universitária de Brighton, no sul da Inglaterra. Mas por trás do verniz "cool" está uma causa nobre: ser o primeiro restaurante lixo zero do país. Na casa do chef Douglas McMaster, 28, ingredientes como manteiga, queijo, cerveja e cogumelos são produzidos no local. Carnes, leite e verduras vêm de produtores locais e são transportados sem embalagens. E os restos dos alimentos viram adubo –parte entregue a fornecedores em troca de mercadorias. De acordo com o inglês, 95% de todo o resíduo gerado é reciclado, reutilizado ou transformado dentro do próprio empreendimento. A meta é chegar a 100% daqui a um ano. "O desperdício de comida se tornou um problema para mim ao longo dos anos, e decidi fazer algo a respeito", diz ele, que já passou pelo estrelado restaurante Noma, em Copenhague, e pelo St. John, em Londres, famoso pelo conceito "nose-to-tail" (do nariz ao rabo), em que se aproveita o animal quase por completo para cozinhar. "A experiência no St John me mostrou que devemos respeitar o alimento e tirar o máximo dele", diz McMaster. PRÉ-INDUSTRIAL Agora à frente do seu próprio estabelecimento, ele defende, além do lixo zero, um retorno à era de alimentos "pré-industriais". Isso significa, diz, lidar diretamente com as fontes produtoras, evitando o intermediário, e usar somente ingredientes sazonais e naturais. "No sistema atual, a natureza é manipulada para satisfazer nossas necessidades. Isso resulta em alimentos sem vida, plásticos." Para inverter essa lógica, manter a simplicidade é fundamental. O restaurante, instalado num antigo armazém e que funciona também para o café, serve apenas seis opções de pratos diariamente. No dia em que a reportagem esteve lá, havia risoto de arroz integral com queijo fresco e cogumelos-ostra (os dois últimos produzidos no local; £ 9, ou R$ 41), carne de veado com aipo, alho selvagem e lentilhas (£ 14, ou R$ 63) e robalo com couve-flor e algas. Uma das estrelas da casa, disposta na entrada, é a máquina de compostagem. Dentro dela, até 60 kg de restos são transformados em adubo em 24 horas. A novidade, fabricada na Austrália, custou £ 20 mil (cerca de R$ 80 mil) e conquistou chefs como René Redzepi, do Noma. Outro investimento foi um equipamento que faz a eletrólise da água, separando-a em uma solução alcalina e outra ácida. Os líquidos substituem produtos químicos na limpeza do local. As engenhocas dividem espaço com o mobiliário rústico do salão, feito com materiais doados por uma escola de design, e potes de geleias vazios que são usados no lugar de copos. McMaster diz que o custo para abrir o local foi de £ 80 mil (R$ 362 mil), mas, segundo ele, as práticas sustentáveis –como produzir ingredientes no local– ajudam a diminuir custos de operação. "A quantidade de dinheiro que teremos de gastar no futuro para lidar com o lixo vai acabar com muitos restaurantes. Por isso, todo esse esforço faz sentido." ETIQUETA DO SILO COMPOSTAGEM Uma máquina transforma restos inaproveitáveis de comida em adubo. O composto é doado à comunidade ou negociado em troca de insumos FEITOS "EM CASA" Queijo, cerveja, pão, entre outros ingredientes, são produzidos no restaurante REUTILIZAÇÃO A borra do café é usada no cultivo de cogumelos, e a água da máquina de expresso vai para a descarga dos banheiros RESTOS VIRAM COMIDA Cascas viram ingredientes de cidras e refrigerantes. Também são feitos chutneys e geleias com as sobras SEM EMBALAGEM Para evitar plásticos e pacotes, fornecedores entregam as mercadorias em embalagens reutilizáveis (de leite e vinho, por exemplo) ÁGUA QUE LIMPA Um sistema de eletrólise transforma a água da casa em uma solução ácida e outra alcalina, que substituem o material de limpeza e o sabão MATERIAL ECOLÓGICO As bebidas são servidas em potes de geleia e os pratos são feitos de uma resina resultante do derretimento de sacolas plásticas PRODUTORES LOCAIS A casa não usa intermediários e compra diretamente de produtores e fornecedores de pequeno porte, que usam métodos sustentáveis –na criação de aves, por exemplo CARDÁPIO ENXUTO O menu do restaurante tem seis opções diárias e prioriza ingredientes da estação | comida |
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] | Famosa por seus cafés, a rede norte-americana Starbucks irá vender cerveja e vinho no Reino Unido para competir com os tradicionais pubs locais. A iniciativa, batizada de "A Noite do Starbucks", já foi testada anteriormente nos Estados Unidos, em um evento de discreto sucesso, que atualmente acontece em 30 cidades. De acordo com a imprensa britânica, cerca de 700 unidades em toda a região irão servir dez diferentes marcas de vinho, entre eles branco, tinto e rose, diversos tipos de cervejas e até mesmo cidra, após as 16h. Nova concorrência pode ser um forte golpe para os pubs britânicos, que já sofrem os efeitos dos altos impostos e a proibição de fumo dentro dos estabelecimentos, sendo que dezenas deles foram forçados a fechar suas portas nos últimos anos. | comida |
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] | Em Dois Córregos, no interior paulista, a família de Chico Ferreira, chef do restaurante Le Jazz, já não tinha mais o que fazer com tanto leite. As vaquinhas produziam além da demanda e Chico, que cresceu vendo a avó produzir queijo, resolveu se arriscar. Deu certo. Mas não foi porque ele é chef. Nem porque o leite tinha vindo da vaca do sítio. Fazer queijo em casa é mesmo mais fácil do que parece. "O queijo é simples e milenar. As pessoas o produziam com facilidade para o consumo diário. Não estamos reinventando a roda, estamos usando um ingrediente de difícil trato [o leite] e transformando em algo de vida longa", afirma Fernando Oliveira, d'A Queijaria. Para facilitar ainda mais o processo, há kits vendidos pela internet com tudo o que você precisa para ter uma microqueijaria em casa. Para fazer um queijo frescal, por exemplo, a Queijos no Brasil, de Juiz de Fora (MG), única marca nacional encontrada pela reportagem, vende seu kit (R$ 72,10) com apostila, termômetro, coalho, cloreto de cálcio e duas fôrmas. Quase uma militante da produção caseira desse laticínio, a americana Claudia Lucero vende kits em Portland, nos EUA. O de mozarela e ricota vem com termômetro, ácido cítrico, coalho, um pedaço de tecido e sal (US$ 25; com frete e impostos fica bem mais caro: R$ 225). Tão entusiasta, ela lançou em 2014 um livro com receitas de queijos que levam até uma hora para ficar prontos, o "One-Hour Cheese", à venda na Amazon por US$ 9,45. Kit em mãos, só falta comprar a matéria-prima principal: o leite. Mas atenção, não pode ser o de caixinha UHT; use o de garrafinha, pasteurizado, que fica refrigerado nos mercados. "Em São Paulo, estamos em um mercado grande, com difícil acesso aos produtos da roça, ao leite cru [de comércio proibido para o consumidor final]. O leite que temos aqui [pasteurizado], sem bactérias, é um leite sem vida", diz Bruno Cabral, do Mestre Queijeiro. Mesmo com esse leite (e num apartamento de cidade grande) é possível se aventurar, defende Fernando. "O produtor tem seu rebanho, seu 'pingo' [fermento para queijos], mas o processo em casa é tão belo quanto." A experiência pode ser um caminho sem volta, ressalva Claudia. "Produzir queijos faz você pensar mais sobre a qualidade do leite. Talvez você queira visitar uma fazenda e ajudar o produtor." | comida |
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] | Foi-se o tempo em que era preciso andar pelo bairro procurando bananeiras, pular muros com facas em punho e arrancar uma folha para preparar o peixe do almoço. Hoje elas estão à venda em prateleiras de mercados. Desde 2011, Enio e Gorete Rodrigues seguem de carro para o litoral sul de São Paulo, uma vez por semana, para trazer folhas e comercializá-las. Em Itanhaém, o agricultor Petrúcio Sampaio e a família cuidam da produção. São cerca de 7.000 pés –que não produzem bananas. "A banana precisa de muito agrotóxico e as folhas não. Elas não têm uma gota de veneno sequer", conta Enio. A cada semana, cerca de 300 folhas são retiradas cuidadosamente do pé (no máximo cinco de cada um –assim, elas brotam novamente). Já em São Paulo, elas são limpas e embaladas uma a uma por Enio e Gorete e vendidas para clientes como Hugo Delgado, do Obá. Ele vivia dando voltas na cidade à procura de bananeiras para aproveitar as folhas em preparos de seu restaurante. "Era estranho, em um país com tantas bananas, não encontrar as folhas no mercado." "A folha não é como um papel-alumínio, que não respira. É algo vivo e, quando se coloca na grelha, queima um pouco e dá mais sabor ao prato", diz Delgado, que usa o produto para fazer o peixe assado com creme de coco e curry (R$ 67). O chef Maurício Santi, especializado na cozinha do sudeste asiático, conta que naquela região há uma cultura de não desprezar nenhuma parte do ingrediente. No caso da banana, usa-se, além da fruta, a "flor" da bananeira, que lembra alcachofra, em saladas, o miolo do tronco, de textura esponjosa e crocante, em curries e cozidos, e a folha, para cocção, decoração e como utensílio. "A folha pode ser uma toalha de mesa, um origami decorativo, um prato descartável e um envelope para a carne que será cozida", diz. No Brasil, o chef já usou no preparo de um peixe com caldo, cozidos no vapor. "A folha exala sabor." Confira receita de badejo assado com banana-ouro acompanhado de farofa de camarão, do livro Cozinha Tropical Brasileira: Mistura Morena, de Morena Leite, para fazer em casa. ONDE COMPRAR SITE folhadebananeira.com.br QUANTO R$ 10 CASA SANTA LUZIA (al. Lorena, 1.471, Jardim Paulista) QUANTO R$ 7 OCEAN SIX PESCADOS GOURMET (r. dos Chanés, 256, Moema) QUANTO R$ 8,50 ZAFFARI (Bourbon Shopping - r. Turiassú, 2.100, Pompeia) QUANTO R$ 6,98 PEIXARIA BAR E VENDA (r. Inácio Pereira da Rocha, 112, Pinheiros) QUANTO R$ 10 | comida |
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] | No próximo domingo, 22, ocorre em Los Angeles, nos Estados Unidos, a cerimônia de premiação do Oscar. Aproveitando a deixa, que tal saber o que alguns famosos cozinham? O ator Paul Newman, por exemplo, era conhecido por fazer churrascos para os colegas de set durante filmagens. A receita de seu gaspacho está no livro "Eles Também na Cozinha", de Evânio Alves, que apresenta pratos feitos por homens célebres (R$ 49,90). Confira a receita do gaspacho. FILMES QUE DÃO FOME Chef (2014) Um chef perde seu emprego num restaurante e precisa recomeçar sua vida. As cenas com comida impressionam pela beleza A Cem Passos de um Sonho (2014) Uma família indiana abre um restaurante na França em frente a uma casa com uma estrela "Michelin". Bacana para conhecer a tradição da cozinha francesa Soul Kitchen (2009) O proprietário do restaurante que dá nome ao filme enfrenta problemas com o novo chef que não agrada a clientela. Conheça os bastidores de um restaurante Sideways (2004) Dois amigos decidem fazer uma road trip pela Califórnia passando por diversas vinícolas. Para aprender mais sobre vinho Tampopo (1985) Um caminhoneiro decide ajudar uma viúva a dominar a arte do lámen –tradicional macarrão chinês. Para fãs da comida oriental * BRASILEIRINHO JAMBU A erva de pequeninas flores amarelas e folhas serreadas, típica da região Norte do país, é muito utilizada na culinária regional. De sabor mentolado, o jambu tem uma surpreendente característica: "treme a boca", (causa uma leve dormência na língua). Usado em famosas receitas paraenses, como o tacacá e o pato no tucupi, pode temperar até a cachaça. A planta, de propriedades medicinais, também é conhecida em sua região como agrião-do-pará. Suas flores são utilizadas pela indústria farmacêutica para o tratamento de infecções. ONDE COMPRAR Comercial Nova Tradição (Mercado Municipal de São Paulo - r. da Cantareira, 306, Luz); tel. (11) 3228-0758 QUANTO R$ 14, 100 g * SOB ENCOMENDA A Santo Vício Chocolates faz pão de mel artesanal em sabores como doce de leite, brigadeiro e damasco (R$ 3, a unidade). Os doces podem ser personalizados (tel. 11/2839-3121; santoviciochocolates.com.br ) * LANÇAMENTO VINHOS: APRENDA NA PRÁTICA A DEGUSTAR A sommelière norte-americana ensina a escolher, comprar, armazenar, servir e degustar a bebida AUTORA Marnie Old TRADUTORA Thaís Costa EDITORA Publifolha QUANTO R$ 64,90 NATURALMENTE SEM GLÚTEN O livro reúne receitas, descreve ingredientes e dá dicas para substituição de produtos lácteos AUTORA Valérie Cupillard TRADUTORA Melissa Moura Mello EDITORA Senac São Paulo QUANTO R$ 99,90 * AGENDA 20 DE FEVEREIRO Estão abertas as inscrições para os cursos de sommelier do Instituto da Cerveja. As aulas se iniciam em junho (R$ 3.000; [email protected]) 28 DE FEVEREIRO Dia do curso "Como Fazer Cerveja" da Lamas Brewshop (r. Caio Graco). Inscrições (R$ 250) no lamasbrewshop.com.br 1º DE MARÇO Terminam as inscrições para o curso Introdução à Degustação de Vinhos, da Universidade Presbiteriana Mackenzie (R$ 550; tel. 11/2114-882) 2 DE MARÇO Jantar beneficente marca a chegada ao Brasil do Abbraccio, casa italiana da rede Outback. Às 19h (R$ 120; tel. 11/3285-4527) | comida |
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] | A chef paulistana Bel Coelho, do Clandestino, estreia, no próximo dia 6, o programa "Receita de Viagem", no canal por assinatura TLC. A produção, gravada em 2013, já havia sido transmitida por redes da Alemanha e da França no ano passado. A tônica do programa não são receitas gravadas em estúdio, mas os relatos de andanças da chef por mercados de rua, aldeias indígenas, fazendas e recantos que escondem produtores de ingredientes típicos do Brasil. No primeiro episódio, por exemplo, Bel explora o Estado do Pará: visita o mercado Ver-o-Peso, em Belém, a produção de chocolate artesanal na ilha do Combu, com o chef Thiago Castanho, e prepara um turu à marajoara (molusco típico da região, com leite de búfala e especiarias) na fazenda São Jerônimo, na ilha de Marajó. Os outros 20 programas passeiam por cozinhas distintas: dos Pampas, do Cerrado e do Pantanal, das ruas do Rio de Janeiro, dos imigrantes árabes, alemães, japoneses e portugueses. NA TV Receita de Viagem com Bel Coelho QUANDO a partir de 6 de março, às 22h20, no TLC | comida |
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] | A chef Ana Soares, da rotisseria Mesa III (tel. 11/3868-5501), criou o menu Pastas Freddas, que reúne massas que devem ser saboreadas frias e com molhos leves. A linha inclui pratos como ravióli de ricota com limão-siciliano (R$ 30; 500 g) e olivas recheadas com vitela e azeitona (R$ 37,50; 500 g). Entre os molhos, estão o de manjericão (R$ 28; 200 g), o genovês (R$ 22; 200 g) e o de alcachofra (R$ 32; 200 g). | comida |
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] | Para fazer um queijo fresco, basta ter leite, coalho e pouco mais de uma hora livre. Mas isso pode ser apenas o começo. "A maturação é um universo infinito", diz Fernando Oliveira, d'A Queijaria. Normalmente, quando se usa leite pasteurizado para fazer queijo, acrescenta-se fermento antes do "envelhecimento" dele. O fermento pode ser industrializado ou "cultivado" a partir de queijos anteriores (processo semelhante ao do levain, o fermento natural de pães). Na fazenda, com leite cru, é possível dispensá-lo –as bactérias presentes no ambiente dão conta do serviço. Mas o "pingo", como chamam os produtores, ajuda a coagular o leite e dar sabor ao queijo. Ele nada mais é do que o soro que escorre de queijos feitos anteriormente, com suas bactérias. Já dentro de um apartamento, sem leite cru ou fermento, nem tudo está perdido. "As bactérias da sua mão, da água, da sua casa podem transformar o queijo ao longo do tempo, dando sabores diferentes a cada produção", explica Oliveira. O primeiro passo para a maturação é ter um espaço com temperatura entre 13ºC e 15ºC –pode ser a parte mais baixa da geladeira, uma adega ou até o armário (em dias menos quentes). O queijo deve ficar em uma superfície porosa (palha, madeira ou cerâmica), envolto num pano. Deve ser virado todos os dias e, com o passar do tempo, ganha um cheiro diferente e um soro amarelado. A cada três ou quatro dias, a peça pode ser lavada. Em sete dias, você terá um queijo seco. Em dez, um meia-cura. Fungos vermelhos e gosto amargo acentuado indicam que a experiência não deu certo. Neste caso, descarte o queijo e recomece. IMAGINAÇÃO O chef Chico Ferreira está maturando dois dos três queijos que produziu. "Um eu comi em uma semana, outro ficará lá por um mês e o outro por 12 meses. Fazer em casa é interessante até para você dar valor ao bom produto." Experimentar leites diferentes, outros modos de salga, lavagens com cerveja ou cachaça, maturação curta ou longa... tudo é possível. "Só a imaginação limita a produção caseira", afirma a americana Claudia Lucero. "E não busque um padrão, o queijo depende da bactéria do lugar e cada um é diferente", aconselha Fernando Oliveira. Veja vídeo com o passo a passo do queijo: Veja o vídeo * KITS ONDE COMPRAR CASA DE MASSAS NANCY O QUÊ coalho Estrela, para coagular o leite (R$ 8; 200 ml) ONDE Mercado Municipal (r. da Cantareira, 306, rua I, boxe 13; tel. 11/3228-2188) AGROLINE O QUÊ formas para queijo (R$ 6) e coalho (R$ 5,60) ONDE agroline.com.br (entrega em todo o país) ORDELEITE O QUÊ fôrmas (R$ 9,50), termômetro (R$ 79,90) e coalho (R$ 6,90) ONDE ordeleite.com.br (entrega em todo o país) ESCOLHA SEU KIT O AMERICANO Para fazer mozarela e ricota, vem com termômetro, ácido cítrico, coalho, um pedaço de tecido e sal. US$ 25 (R$ 70,96) + frete + impostos alfandegários ONDE urbancheesecraft.com OUTROS PRODUTOS kits para iogurte, burrata, queijo feta e de cabra O BRASILEIRO Para fazer queijo frescal, vem com apostila, termômetro, coalho, cloreto de cálcio e duas fôrmas. R$ 72,10 + frete ONDE queijosnobrasil.com.br OUTROS PRODUTOS kits para requeijão e queijo minas padrão, coalhos e fermentos * GLOSSÁRIO LEITE PASTEURIZADO Aquele que passou por um tratamento térmico que elimina microrganismos; ainda pode ser usado para queijos LEITE UHT Submetido a um processo de esterilização, com temperaturas ultraelevadas. Inadequado para queijos (é de difícil coagulação) CLORETO DE CÁLCIO Repõe o cálcio retirado do leite na pasteurização COAGULAÇÃO Quando o leite se divide em coalhada (sólidos) e soro COALHO Enzimas que ajudam a coagular o leite; ele pode ser sintético ou natural FERMENTO Microrganismos usados na maturação, dão acidez, sabor, aroma; pode ser dispensado quando o queijo é feito com leite cru * COMO RECONHECER UM BOM QUEIJO Se ele não tiver fungo (branco ou azul), deve ter aroma lácteo que lembre doce de leite e iogurte; em alguns casos, pode lembrar ervas, nozes ou frutos secos O queijo de fungo azul deve ter tons de cinza, verde e azul, nunca cores quentes; a casca tem de ser lisa e ele não deve ter furinhos ou rachaduras no centro A casca é a embalagem natural do queijo: não deve ter rachaduras ou estar estufada; pode ter mofo verde ou acinzentado, nunca vermelho Em casos de queijo cuja casca tenha mofo branco, como camembert ou brie, o fungo não pode ter coloração rosada; o cheiro é forte e lembra amoníaco No caso de um queijo com olhaduras (buracos), como o emmenthal, os furos devem ser uniformes e não podem acumular óleo dentro deles Um queijo fresco (como o minas frescal) deve ser branco, ter muito soro e aroma de leite No caso da mozarela, quanto mais jovem e menor o intervalo de validade, mais cremosa ela será; a textura deve ser de fios e não de placas, como o queijo prato Já o queijo minas meia-cura deve ter coloração amarelada e poucas olhaduras (buracos); a casca deve ser lisa e, no caso do queijo curado, apresentar cor mais escura Em geral, o sabor de qualquer queijo pode ser azedo, mas não amargo -o amargor indica que o queijo não está bom; o aroma não pode ser de ureia ou de putrefação | comida |
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] | O restaurante Banana Verde (r. Harmonia, 278), na Vila Madalena, zona oeste, oferece entre na próxima semana, entre os dias 24 e 27, um menu detox para quem exagerou na folia durante o Carnaval ou então para quem quiser se aprofundar na dieta. Os pratos naturais e saudáveis serão servidos durante o almoço. É possível escolher entre o prato executivo (buffet de saladas com sopa detox, prato principal e sobremesa, por R$ 44,90) ou apenas o prato principal (R$ 35). Cada dia terá um prato principal diferente. Entre eles está a lasanha de palmito pupunha, feita com abobrinha marinada, ricota de caju e tomatinhos marinados com manjericão. Confira aqui a receita da lasanha natural feita pela casa. Além da lasanha, também haverá fettucine de palmito pupunha com molho de edamame, cebolas caramelizadas e xerém de caju. Entre as sobremesas, serão servidas tapioca cremosa de coco e chia com calda de amora e brigadeiro de biomassa com frutas marinadas. O loca também oferece opções de sucos desintoxicantes como o que leva o nome da casa (R$ 18), composto por abacaxi, linhaças douradas, gengibre, água de coco, hortelã e clorofila. Veja opções de sucos detox para preparar em casa. | comida |
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] | A piña colada de Porto Rico continua sendo, segundo a revista "National Geographic", o melhor drique para se beber na praia, à frente de outros clássicos como a caipirinha, o daiquiri cubano e a margarita mexicana. "Hoje em dia, o coquetel original de San Juan é bebido no mundo todo, mas tem um gosto melhor em Porto Rico, na praia ou na piscina", segundo apontou nesta quarta-feira (18) o site da revista, que publicou o ranking dos considerados os dez melhores drinques para tomar sob o sol da praia. Há pouco mais de dois anos, a "National Geographic" já havia feito este mesmo reconhecimento à bebida porto-riquenha. A publicação explicou que "a mistura de abacaxi, coco e rum conhecida como piña colada foi popular no Caribe durante pelo menos cem anos antes que Ramón 'Monchito' Marrero, um garçom do Caribe Hilton Beachcomber Bar (agora chamado Oasis Bar), de San Juan, a aperfeiçoou por volta de 1950 utilizando creme de coco". Em segundo lugar, atrás da popular bebida porto-riquenha, está a caipirinha, seguida do mai-tai da Polinésia, da cerveja jamaicana Red Stripe e do daiquiri cubano. Completam o top 10, nesta ordem, a margarita mexicana, o limoncello italiano, o americano Cape Codder de Massachusetts, o vinho rosado da "côte d'azur" francesa e o gim-tônica da Índia. Embora a revista americana conte a história de "Monchito", o certo é que não existe uma só versão sobre quem foi o criador da piña colada. O governo porto-riquenho nunca se pronunciou a respeito e a bebida não foi patenteada. A versão que parece fazer mais sentido é a de que seu criador foi o garçom do Hotel Caribe Hilton de San Juan Ramón "Monchito" Marrero, em 1954. Segundo a gerência do hotel, "Monchito" esteve três meses misturando, provando e descartando até que finalmente encontrou a combinação perfeita. Além dos ingredientes típicos da piña colada, "Monchito" acrescentava creme de leite para dar um pouco mais de consistência ao gole, mas depois o ingrediente foi retirado da receita. A ex-governadora de Porto Rico Sila María Calderón apresentou em 2004 uma proclamação que designa a piña colada como a bebida favorita dos turistas e estabelecia sua criação no Hotel Caribe Hilton de San Juan. A segunda teoria é que a bebida nasceu no restaurante Barrachina, na Velha San Juan, cuja administração assegura que foi em 1963 quando seu antigo garçom, o espanhol Ramón Portas Mingot, misturou pela primeira vez os ingredientes da piña colada com leite condensado. Para satisfazer o gosto de todos, novas receitas surgiram a partir de sua fórmula original, por isso que hotéis e restaurantes em Porto Rico optaram por dar um toque único à bebida. O restaurante Barrachina, na Velha San Juan, oferece uma ampla gama de piña coladas, como a "Three Level Piña Colada", preparada com diferentes marcas de rum: Rum dw Barrilito, Malibu e Myers. | comida |
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] | O presidente do movimento internacional Slow Food, Carlo Petrini, criticou o "circo" da Expo que será realizada em Milão, por "só levar em conta os governos e as multinacionais, e não o trabalho dos milhões de camponeses que produzem os alimentos". Após seu discurso no Fórum dos Povos Indígenas, que terminou na última sexta-feira (13) em Roma, Petrini disse que a Expo, que acontecerá de 1º de maio a 31 de outubro, "não representa a alimentação, porque o planeta não se nutre com os governos nem com as multinacionais, mas com o trabalho de milhões de camponeses, pescadores, criadores de gado e artesãos". "A Itália se presta ao circo da Expo sem ter um indígena. É só indústria, multinacionais e governos, mas nada de indígenas, que são os últimos", criticou. Petrini estimou que as comunidades indígenas, com suas técnicas tradicionais e sustentáveis, podem indicar "a via de saída da crise alimentar, um problema que é fruto da avareza de uma humanidade que não reconhece o valor da alimentação". Ele expôs uma visão crítica do sistema alimentar mundial –"que está em crise e chegou ao abismo"– e defendeu que aplicar a teoria do livre mercado aos alimentos é um crime, e que uma humanidade que não avalia a alimentação é "criminosa". "O sistema alimentar vive em um absurdo de uma produção incrível de alimentos e, ao mesmo tempo, uma produção impressionante de desperdícios", denunciou Petrini, que lembrou que no mundo há 850 milhões de pessoas desnutridas ou mal-alimentadas. Um número que, apontou, se contradiz com o nível de desperdício, porque "40% da produção alimentar se perde antes de alimentar a população". Também ressaltou que "não é tolerável que as pessoas continuem morrendo de fome, enquanto gastamos um valor indecoroso em armas". O problema para ele, é que o lucro econômico "é o centro de tudo e gerou no último século um desequilíbrio inimaginável". A ideologia que vale hoje, criticou, é de que "o alimento já não tem valor, é um objeto que se compra e se vende com um preço", e acrescentou que "uma coisa é valor e outra é preço". Sustentou, além disso, que a sociedade não pensa que os recursos do planeta têm fim e ressaltou que em 110 anos 70% da biodiversidade mundial terá sido perdida, uma riqueza que "desapareceu porque se privilegia o mais produtivo". O movimento Slow Food é uma organização sem fins lucrativos que trabalha para dar valor aos alimentos, pelo respeito a quem os produz em harmonia com o meio ambiente e com os ecossistemas, e que busca reproduzir os saberes mantidos por tradições locais. O fórum foi organizado pelo Fundo Internacional para o Desenvolvimento Agrícola (IFAD), das Nações Unidas. Durante dois dias em Roma cerca de 50 representantes de organizações de povos indígenas se reuniram para analisar a importância de seus conhecimentos tradicionais para erradicar a fome e a pobreza, e transformar as comunidades rurais. | comida |
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] | O restaurante dinamarquês Noma, de René Redzepi, que passou cinco semanas em uma residência no Hotel Mandarin Oriental, em Tóquio, está vendendo toda sua louça utilizada durante sua experiência na ilha. As pessoas que não puderam conhecê-lo em Tóquio, vão poder ter um pedaço dessa experiência em suas próprias casa, literalmente. O restaurante criou um site de vendas online no qual encontram-se pratos, bowls, talheres e outros utensílios utilizados durante esses dois meses, que foram feitos por artesãos japoneses com materiais como madeira e argila. No entanto, tais produtos estão longe de serem baratos. Um garfo preto feito pelo designer Akito Akgagi custa U$ 200 (R$ 567,70), enquanto hashis (os famosos "palitinhos" japoneses) feitos por Shiro Miura custam U$ 65 (R$ 184,50). O produto mais caro é uma estante feita por Wahl & Ross que sai por U$ 2.890 (R$ 8.203). | comida |
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] | Será inaugurado, no próximo dia 1º, o Armazém da Cidade, espaço multidisciplinar na Vila Madalena com foco em produtos artesanais brasileiros. Iniciativa do jornalista Gilberto Dimenstein, coordenador do site Catraca Livre, o galpão (r. Medeiros de Albuquerque, 270) terá uma parte voltada à gastronomia. Haverá estandes de café, cerveja e queijo, abastecidos por microprodutores. A curadoria de queijos é de Fernando Oliveira, d'A Queijaria. "Vamos ter uma pequena cozinha, para aulas e vivências", conta. Além da venda de queijos, haverá méis, geleias, sanduíches e sucos feitos na hora. Quem cuidará das cervejas é Gilberto Tarantino, da Tarantino Beer e do BrewDog bar. Ao lado dos rótulos já vendidos pela importadora, o espaço terá duas cervejas inéditas (de produção própria), chopes e embutidos brasileiros, garimpados por Tarantino no sul do país. "A ideia é que as pessoas circulem entre os espaços: tomem a cerveja em um lugar, comam um sanduíche em outro e, depois, o café em um terceiro", diz Tarantino. A ala do café, aliás, terá curadoria da barista e mestre de torra Isabela Raposeiras, do Coffee Lab. O espaço apostará em um serviço simples, com ênfase no café coado. "Será algo bem despretensioso", diz. Os artesanatos à venda serão garimpados pelo Elo7, site que reúne produtos de diferentes categorias. O Vitrine, canal do Catraca Livre voltado a novos estilistas brasileiros, fará a curadoria de moda. O espaço funcionará de quarta a sábado, das 9h às 20h, com gastronomia e artesanato; aos domingos terá moda e feirinha orgânica. | comida |
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] | Confira dicas sobre como se comportar em restaurantes, em tempos de falta de água e de luz. NO RESTAURANTE EVITE... ...saladas, carnes malpassadas, peixes e frutos do mar, em geral, pois eles são propícios à proliferação de bactérias e, para economizar água, o estabelecimento pode não ter feito a higienização adequada desses alimentos LIMPEZA Para poupar água na lavagem do chão dos restaurantes, é possível usar mais panos e soluções desinfetantes, em vez de jogar água em abundância PREFIRA... ...pratos à base de massas, arroz, carne-seca, embutidos e queijos amarelos, que não precisam de tanta higienização ou manipulação. Prefira também ingredientes que não necessitam de (tanta) refrigeração, como tubérculos e frutas NÃO CONFIE NA ÁGUA Evite caldos, molhos (béchamel, rosé), sopas, cremes e outros preparos que levam muita água, se não for possível confiar na origem dela NÃO, OBRIGADO Se a qualidade da água da casa for questionável, não aceite água de cortesia em jarras. A professora Priscila Primi indica pedir água mineral e sem gelo, já que este pode ter sido feito com a mesma água duvidosa HIGIENE PESSOAL Nos banheiros é proibido usar álcool gel como substituto da água e do sabão líquido -em caso contrário, o estabelecimento pode ser multado pela Vigilância Sanitária. O álcool gel deve servir apenas como complemento COPOS BEM LAVADOS Antes de usá-los, observe com atenção a louça e o copo à mesa para verificar a limpeza. Pode haver manchas de gordura por falta de enxágue, por exemplo. Nada substitui a água e o sabão bem enxaguados, mas álcool e uma solução com cândida podem ser usados no processo de higienização, indica Priscila Primi BANHEIRO Os restaurantes são proibidos de trabalhar sem água (mesmo que seja só no banheiro) por risco à saúde pública. Para funcionar, ele deve contratar água potável de caminhões-pipa cadastrados na Vigilância Sanitária, exigindo o laudo de qualidade da água. Para economizar, é importante instalar torneiras com temporizador e descargas menores MUITO QUENTE Prefira preparos em alta temperatura como frituras e assados, já que o calor elimina bactérias e diminui o risco de contaminação. Pizza e churrasco, por exemplo, são escolhas seguras REAPROVEITAMENTO Evite receitas que podem ser feitas com o reaproveitamento de outros pratos, como arroz à grega, pois no preparo há um tempo maior de exposição à contaminação, sugere o nutrólogo Daniel Magnoni PEIXE CRU Em restaurantes japoneses, talvez seja melhor evitar sushis e sashimis, pois peixes crus necessitam de refrigeração alta e constante para manter o frescor da carne. Aposte em pratos quentes, como teppans e tempurás | comida |
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] | A maior crise hídrica de São Paulo fez a população (ou pelo menos parte dela) repensar o uso da água. Na cozinha de casa e na dos restaurantes não é diferente –deve-se saber como aproveitar melhor o líquido que sai da torneira para lavar e cozinhar alimentos. Além disso, a falta de água e a consequente falta de energia geram desconfiança quanto à segurança alimentar do que se come. É melhor pedir peixe ou carne? Pode-se comer carne malpassada? Como não perder os alimentos numa possível falta de energia em casa? Para responder a essas perguntas e dar dicas sobre como lidar com a comida em tempos de seca, conversamos com Priscila Primi, professora de segurança alimentar do curso de gastronomia da Estácio; Daniel Magnoni, nutrólogo e responsável pelo Serviço de Terapia Nutricional do Hospital do Coração; Martha Virgínia Gewehr, técnica da Vigilância Sanitária; Cláudio Spínola, diretor da empresa de soluções ecológicas Morada da Floresta; e Maria Aparecida R. Silveira, nutricionista e diretora da empresa de segurança alimentar Controlare. Confira dicas sobre como se comportar em casa: EM CASA CARNES FRESCAS Dentre as carnes frescas, peixes e frutos do mar são os que apodrecem mais rapidamente. Precisam de um tempo de geladeira maior e mais higienização. Além disso, por ter em geral um tempo de cocção menor, com temperatura mais baixa, tornam-se ainda mais suscetíveis à presença de bactérias. Uma alternativa são as carnes secas e/ou curadas EM PÓ Prefira o leite em pó, já que o de caixinha, após aberto, precisa ser conservado na geladeira LAVA A LOUÇA TODO DIA Para lavar pratos e talheres, antes tire os resíduos com papel-toalha e, depois, use duas bacias. Na primeira, tire o grosso da sujeira e ensaboe a louça. Na segunda, enxágue. O ecologista Cláudio Spínola sugere descartar a água da primeira bacia quando ela estiver muito suja e utilizar a bacia 2 no lugar da 1. Use sabão biodegradável, assim a água do enxágue pode ser usada para regar plantas e hortas HIGIENIZADOR Limpe os alimentos com menos água usando a solução de 1 colher de sopa de hipoclorito de sódio ou cloro líquido para 1 litro de água. Encha uma tigela com esse líquido e mergulhe os alimentos (hortaliças, frutas e vegetais) por 15 minutos. Use uma segunda vasilha com água para enxaguar. A mesma solução pode ser usada para deixar utensílios de molho, mas é preciso usar água corrente para enxaguá-los GELO NO ISOPOR Em caso de corte de luz, um isopor com gelo pode ajudar a preservar os itens refrigerados por algum tempo, pois reproduz o ambiente de uma geladeira (cerca de 8º). Mas tome cuidado especialmente com leites, queijos, iogurte e requeijão, já que eles começam a se deteriorar depois de duas horas sem refrigeração EM GALÕES Se quiser armazenar água mineral, fique atento ao prazo de validade -a depender da marca, pode variar de meses a um ano. Não armazene a água em local abafado ou com incidência do sol, pois ela pode ter suas propriedades alteradas ERVAS FRESCAS Como as hortaliças murcham rápido, compre apenas as que serão usadas no dia da compra, para não precisar de refrigeração REUTILIZE A PANELA Panelas e frigideiras usadas para frituras podem ser reutilizadas, sem necessidade de lavagem SEM ISOPOR Se você não tiver um isopor em casa, abra o mínimo possível a geladeira depois da falta de energia elétrica, sobretudo o freezer, que consegue conservar os alimentos por até 36 horas PERDA DE NUTRIENTES Uma vez descongelado (mesmo que dentro de um isopor), nenhum alimento deve ser congelado novamente, pois ele perde valor nutricional e pode ser um risco à segurança alimentar, diz Daniel Magnoni. Uma dica de Priscila Primi para a carne moída descongelada é fazer molho à bolonhesa -que poderá depois ser congelado TUBÉRCULOS Invista em legumes que nascem embaixo da terra (cenoura, beterraba, cará, inhame, batata, mandioca), pois aguentam mais tempo fora da geladeira. Abobrinha, tomate e berinjela têm vida útil mais curta fora dela UTENSÍLIOS Tábuas de carne, facas de corte e espátulas necessitam de boa higienização antes da manipulação dos alimentos. Ao escolher sua tábua, prefira as de polietileno (as de vidro podem quebrar e se tornar perigosas) COMPOSTAGEM Se não houve jeito e você perdeu legumes e verduras com a falta de luz, os alimentos podem ser colocados em vasilhas de compostagem de lixo orgânico e virar adubo | comida |
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] | A Eno Cultura, academia que oferece qualificações reconhecidas internacionalmente em vinhos e destilados, apresenta em 2015 uma programação cultural voltada ao mundo etílico. Na estreia, a primeira atração será cinema. As atividades estão programadas para acontecer no galpão da academia. Faz parte do projeto Eno Cine apresentar aos clientes temas interessantes relacionado com bebidas através de filmes e curtas. Para a estreia no dia 11 de fevereiro, às 19h30, o filme escolhido é Somm, de Jason Wise. A capacidade é de apenas 15 pessoas e a entrada é gratuita, assim como a pipoca. Para reservas, é preciso ligar na Eno Cultura (tel. 4306-7643) Na ocasião, a direção do Eno Cultura vai apresentar as novidades que a academia apresenta para o ano, como por exemplo um curso ministrado por um profissional renomado internacional, cujo nome será revelado no evento. Eno Cine - Eno Cultura ONDE Sala Galpão Eno (Rua Feliceto de Luca, 02/ tel. 4306-7643) | comida |
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] | O restaurante libanês Folha de Uva trocou de endereço depois de mais de 25 anos na Consolação. A nova unidade (tel. 11/3062-2564) fica na rua Joaquim Antunes, 234, em Pinheiros, zona oeste. Além da nova casa, o local também inaugura um novo cardápio elaborado pelo chef Samir. A nova casa troca o sistema de buffet pelo "mezzé", mesa de pratos típicos. É possível escolher entre a opção de pratos frios (R$ 45 por pessoa) e a completa que inclui também os pratos quentes (R$ 65 no almoço de seg. a sex.). | comida |
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] | A Saison D'Alliance, rótulo que chega ao mercado em março, marca a compra da cervejaria artesanal mineira Wäls pela gigante Ambev –parte do conglomerado multinacional AB-Inbev. O anúncio foi feito na manhã desta terça-feira (10) por representantes das duas empresas. Além de uma participação acionária na Wäls, a Ambev vai realizar parcerias com os mineiros, sempre com a marca Bohemia –que, em outubro do ano passado, se lançou no mercado de rótulos especiais, ou premium, com três cervejas da linha Bohemia Reserva. Na prática, uma nova empresa será criada, tendo como sócios os irmãos Carneiro (fundadores da Wäls), sob o guarda-chuva da Ambev. Não foram divulgados valores da negociação, nem de quanto será a participação acionária de cada parte na nova marca –que ainda não tem nome definido. O diretor de marketing da Bohemia, Daniel Wakswaser, explicou, em entrevista coletiva na tarde desta terça, que a empresa une os ativos de cada empresa –como o parque industrial da Bohemia em Petrópolis (RJ), a cervejaria da Wäls em Belo Horizonte (MG) e as marcas variantes de cada uma–, mas que a independência de ambas se mantém. "Nossas receitas e as da Bohemia continuam intocáveis e independentes. Mas, daqui para a frente, tudo é possível", disse Tiago Carneiro, sócio da Wäls. A parceria deve resultar para a marca, segundo ele, em acesso maior e mais fácil a uma gama variada de matérias-primas e a uma capilaridade muito maior de distribuição –restrita hoje a quatro Estados. Não está definido ainda, no entanto, quando a Ambev assumiria a distribuição da Wäls, nem se os parques fabris de uma empresa serão usados para a fabricação dos rótulos de outra e vice-versa. "Num primeiro momento, tudo continua igual. Mas são coisas que podem acontecer, e se acontecerem vão levar em conta sempre a qualidade da cerveja, não a quantidade. Vamos aprender junto com o mercado", disse Wakswaser. Carneiro completou: "O que não muda é nosso compromisso de inovar e de fazer boa cerveja". Mais cedo, em comunicado enviado à imprensa, o diretor de marketing da Bohemia disse que a empresa sempre admirou "a criatividade e o espírito desbravador" da Wäls, citando a medalha de ouro conquistada pela dubbel da marca mineira na World Beer Cup no ano passado. "Agora, vamos unir o melhor dos dois mundos", disse. Do lado da Wäls, José Felipe Carneiro, um dos sócios, afirmou realizar um sonho. "Queremos aprender muito com eles e dividir experiências para levar às pessoas mais opções e variedade para diversas ocasiões". De acordo com Wakswaser, fusões com outras cervejarias do mesmo porte da mineira não estão descartadas. "Mas estamos focados em fazer a melhor união possível agora", afirmou. PRIMEIRA PARCERIA O resultado inicial da nova empresa é a Saison D'Alliance, saison feita com sálvia, gengibre e hortelã, fermentada com as mesmas leveduras belgas usadas na produção da Leffe –marca do conglomerado AB-Inbev. Ela será lançada no mês que vem, em edição limitada de 2.000 litros, em garrafas com rolha. Além de ter ganhado medalhas importantes na World Beer Cup, a Wäls vive a expectativa de inaugurar, nas próximas semanas, a operação de uma fábrica na Califórnia (EUA) –com a marca Novo Brasil. Em Minas, uma segunda planta está planejada para 2016. | comida |
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] | A cidade de Seattle, no noroeste dos Estados Unidos, está prestes a se tornar a primeira do país a multar quem jogar restos de comida e outros produtos orgânicos no lixo em vez de separá-los para fazer compostagem. Uma nova lei municipal que entrou em vigor no começo do ano proíbe especificamente estabelecimentos comerciais e residências de jogarem restos orgânicos no lixo. Por enquanto, as pessoas que infringem a norma são apenas avisadas com um adesivo vermelho em sua lixeira, mas a partir de julho isso passará a doer no bolso. As residências que tiverem lixeiras flagradas com resíduos orgânicos serão multadas em US$ 1 por cada infração. No caso dos estabelecimentos comerciais e apartamentos, cuja coleta de lixo é centralizada, a multa poderá chegar a US$ 50. A prefeitura de Seattle oferece gratuitamente a moradores recipientes para serem jogados restos de comida, guardanapos de papel, folhas e ervas do jardim ou caixas de papelão para pizzas. Essas caixas podem ser usadas para armazenar os resíduos orgânicos e para que cada lar produza sua própria compostagem, ou podem deixá-las na rua para que os caminhões de reciclagem as recolham. "Seattle é uma cidade líder em reciclagem. A maioria de nossos moradores e negócios já realizam sua própria compostagem, e isso mostra uma progressão em nosso esforço coletivo para que a cidade seja cada vez mais verde", declarou o diretor de resíduos sólidos do departamento de Serviços Públicos de Seattle, Tim Croll. Segundo uma pesquisa da prefeitura, 74% dos moradores de Seattle aprovam a medida, enquanto 11% são contrários. Atualmente, a cidade recicla 56% de seus resíduos, cerca de 407.125 toneladas ao ano. No entanto, o número ficou estagnado ultimamente, e o objetivo da prefeitura com a iniciativa é aumentá-lo. De acordo com os dados divulgados, a nova medida evitará que cerca de 38 mil toneladas anuais de resíduos orgânicos terminem no lixo, o que contribuirá para atingir o objetivo fixado pela cidade de alcançar 60% de reciclagem até o fim de 2015. Os resíduos orgânicos recolhidos pela prefeitura serão encaminhados a fábricas nas quais será feita a compostagem para os parques e jardins da cidade. A cada ano, Seattle, cidade com 650 mil habitantes, gera uma média de 100 mil toneladas de resíduos orgânicos que não são reciclados e vão parar em um depósito de lixo no estado de Oregon, o que representa um elevado custo para os cofres municipais e contribui para a emissão de gases do efeito estufa. Segundo dados da Agência de Proteção Ambiental dos EUA (EPA), os resíduos orgânicos representam aproximadamente 20% do total de lixo não reciclado do país, à frente de produtos como plástico, papel, metal e vidro. Em 2012, o último ano com dados disponíveis, os EUA geraram 34,7 milhões de toneladas de resíduos orgânicos que não foram utilizadas para a compostagem. A lei aprovada por Seattle que proíbe de jogar resíduos orgânicos no lixo já existe desde 2005 para outros produtos recicláveis, como papel, garrafas e latas. Em julho, Seattle se tornará a primeira cidade dos Estados Unidos a punir quem jogar restos de comida no lixo. Outras cidades como Nova York, San Francisco e Portland (Oregon) também aprovaram medidas destinadas a estimular a compostagem, mas nenhuma é tão severa como a da maior cidade do noroeste americano. | comida |
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] | Na infância, o libanês Stephan Kawijian, 43, conhecia bem seus fornecedores: cordeiro e demais carnes vinham da fazenda do pai beduíno. Pescados ele comprava direto dos barcos na costa de Bengazi, capital da Líbia, onde vivia com a família. O chef, que veio para o Brasil em 1986 e abriu o Sainte Marie, na Vila Sônia, zona oeste, em 2004, suspeita que venha daí seu costume de manter fornecedores fixos e próximos, especialmente em uma cidade com tantas opções como São Paulo. Pensando em dar endereços certeiros de onde achar pães, massas, peixes, carnes, temperos, legumes e utensílios domésticos, a Folha conversou com dez experts no assunto, que indicam suas fontes cativas. Além de Stephan, que deixou clara sua predileção por feiras livres ("É uma fonte de trocas e de energia de criação"), pedimos ajuda para os chefs Tássia Magalhães (Pomodori), Fábio Vieira (Micaela), Flávio Miyamura (Miya), Marcio Silva (Buzina Food Truck), Cauê Tessuto (A Peixaria) e Ana Soares (rotisseria Mesa III). Além deles, ainda participaram a sommelière Carolina Oda (Ici Brasserie), a confeiteira Marília Zylbersztajn (loja que leva o seu nome) e o empresário Sylvio Lazzarini (Varanda e Intermezzo). Fábio Vieira, por exemplo, procura preço e parceria. "Nesse quesito, tem gente que dá gosto de indicar, como o Entreposto das Feijoadas e o Empório Poitara." Qualidade, frescor, preço, padrão e atendimento foram fatores que os experts levaram em conta para indicar os endereços. Confira a lista dos 35 endereços abaixo. * LEGUMES, FRUTAS E VERDURAS MERCADO KINJO YAMAMOTO Abriu em 1936, virou alternativa ao Mercado Municipal e chama a atenção pela qualidade. "Recomendo a banca da Irene, com boas ofertas de cogumelos, ovos e pimentas", indica Marcio Silva (Buzina Food Truck). No local há 20 anos, Irene vende produtos como abobrinha squash e minibrotos. Cauê Tessuto recomendo o lugar pela "enorme variedade de produtos sazonais". ONDE R. da Cantareira, 306, Centro, tel. (11) 3326-1209 (banca de Irene). FEIRA DE ORGÂNICOS DA ÁGUA BRANCA A chef Ana Soares deixou clara sua predileção por feiras: ela gosta do contato pessoal, de bater papo, e não titubeou ao indicar a do parque da Água Branca para quem quer orgânicos. "A feira está linda, no sentido de qualidade e variedade. Esses dias comprei uns tomatinhos de infância." A confeiteira Marília Zylbersztajn frequenta o lugar há sete anos, desde que se mudou para a Barra Funda -ali encontra castanha-do-pará e cacau na banca de Virgílio, além de sucos, laticínios e mudas de ervas. "Os produtos são fresquíssimos." ONDE Av. Francisco Matarazzo, 455, Água Branca, tel. (11) 3865-4131 NATURAL DA TERRA Pimenta pode ser um negócio difícil de encontrar. Ana Soares que o diga: com um trabalho de consultoria para um restaurante mexicano, encontrou muita coisa boa nos sacolões de Higienópolis, mais especificamente no Natural da Terra. Dedo-de-moça, pimenta-verde, cambuci e pimenta-de-cheiro são algumas das variedades encontradas ali. ONDE R. Rosa e Silva, 163, Higienópolis, tel. (11) 3829-0581. FAZENDA MARIA Há cerca de 50 anos no ramo da agricultura, a fazenda começou a vender brotos e plantas comestíveis para restaurantes há nove anos e ganhou fama na capital paulista. "Conheci o lugar pela indicação de outros cozinheiros", conta Fábio Vieira, do Micaela. O chef destaca a atenção no atendimento ao cliente e a qualidade "extrema" dos produtos vendidos pelo produtor. Mas ressalva que apenas 10% das vendas são para o consumidor final. A fazenda vende flores comestíveis, ervas frescas, folhagens e legumes. As vendas são realizadas pelo site e por telefone, e as entregas, realizadas de terça a sábado de manhã. Pedido mínimo de R$ 60. www.fazendamaria.com.br BATATEIRO LEWIS O batateiro Lewis de Assis Ferraz é neto de feirantes –e batateiros. Trabalhou com a chef Ana Soares em algumas consultorias e hoje fornece o tubérculo para a Lanchonete da Cidade, cujo cardápio foi criado pela chef. Manteve sua barraca na Vila Madalena até resolver, há dois anos, passar o ponto para José Antônio Macedo, o Jan, que também trabalha na feira. Mas continua abastecendo a banca com suas batatas inglesa e comum, cultivadas em parceria com um produtor rural. A banca do Lewis virou a banca do Jan, que está todo sábado na feira da Vila. Os preços oscilam entre R$ 2 a R$ 6 o quilo, dependendo da variedade. ONDE R. Aspicuelta c/ r. Mourato Coelho, Vila Madalena, tel. (11) 96125-5024 (Jan). * CARNES DAYTONA CARNES Nesse açougue, o chef Stephan Kawijian (Sainte Marie) compra peito de frango para preparar o seu arroz marroquino. Mas não só. "Quando eles recebem um bom patinho [que entra no quibe cru da casa] eles me mandam." O Daytona, aberto há 15 anos, também faz entregas sob encomenda (daytonacarnes.com.br). As peças são da Mogimeat, e o carro-chefe é o filé-mignon (R$ 34,98, o quilo). ONDE R. Dr. Luiz Migliano, 1.024, Morumbi, tel. (11) 3743-5224. FEED CARNES Aberto em janeiro do ano passado, o espaço não só vende como também dá cursos gratuitos sobre cortes. Este é, aliás, um dos pontos fortes do local para a chef Ana Soares. "O Feed tem uma chef, Letícia Massula, pronta para conversar e ensinar sobre todos os cortes do animal, com muita seriedade." Um dos carros-chefe da casa é o flat-iron, um corte dianteiro que tem a maciez do filé-mignon com marmoreio entremeado tipo raquete (R$ 43 o quilo). A loja cria o próprio gado em três fazendas de Goiás. Faz delivery sob encomenda feita por telefone e mantém atualizada a agenda de aulas do mês no site. ONDE R. Dr. Mário Ferraz, 547, ENTREPOSTO DAS FEIJOADAS João Lopes abriu a loja em 1971 no Mercado de Pinheiros. Hoje, é seu filho Rogério que cuida do local, especializado em ingredientes para feijoadas. Com o tempo, a loja diversificou-se e os itens dividem a atenção com frutas secas e grãos. Fábio Vieira, chef do restaurante Micaela, frequenta o local em busca de carnes salgadas para a tradicional receita brasileira -como pé de porco (R$ 9,50 o quilo), rabo (R$ 14 o quilo), carne-seca (R$ 24,90 o quilo), costelinha salgada (R$ 22,50 o quilo) e lombo (R$ 20 o quilo). O cozinheiro ainda leva queijos como o manteiga (R$ 29,90 o quilo) e o "cabacinha" ou caccio cavalo (R$ 34,50 o quilo). "Além da qualidade, a simpatia e a preocupação com o cliente são incríveis ali." ONDE R. Pedro Cristi, 89, Pinheiros, tel (11) 3812-1418. NO PONTO O chef Cauê Tessuto (A Peixaria) frequenta a casa de carnes nobres em Moema há três anos. "A loja abriu quase na mesma época d'A Peixaria e fica bem próximo da gente", conta. Os cortes são vendidos a vácuo, em embalagens de 500 gramas a 1 kg. "Prove cortes como o porterhouse (t-bone com maior proporção de filé-mignon), short rib (acém sem osso) ou ribeye (começo do contra-filé, superior à costela)." A casa compra cortes da Intermezzo Gourmet e Beef Passion, entre outros frigoríficos e distribuidoras de carnes. O carro-chefe é o bife ancho. ONDE R. Canário, 786, Moema, tel. (11) 5052-2234. BANCA DO SINÉSIO Sinésio Medeiros Correia de Melo é feirante há 30 anos. Todas as terças, quintas, sextas e sábados, ele vende seus cortes na feira do Pacaembu. É ele a quem Ana Soares recorre quando precisa de miúdos de frango. "Aqui na Mesa III tem um confit de fígado, coração e moela que eu adoro; também gosto de fazer caldos com pé de ave." Além dos miúdos da ave –moela limpa, fígado e coração–, Sinésio também vende miúdos de boi, como fígado, rabo e língua. ONDE Pça. Charles Miller, s/nº, Pacaembu, tel. (11) 99986-1879 (Sinésio). * PEIXES OCEAN SIX A peixaria é tocada por Marcelo Nonaka, que dedica cuidado especial à oferta de itens pouco comuns. "Quando disponível, vale a pena levar para casa um punhado de sarnambis, molusco bivalve brasileiro, e o atum bati sempre gordo", diz Cauê Tessuto, d'A Peixaria. Freguês mais novo, Fábio Vieira (Micaela) tem levado o tambaqui (R$ 28 o quilo) e o pirarucu. ONDE R. dos Chanés, 256, Moema, tel. (11) 5093-9432. BANCA DA REGINA "É um parceria afetiva." Assim a chef Ana Soares descreve sua relação com Regina Itinoche, que vende pescados na feira do Pacaembu há 40 anos. "Ela é impecável com o peixe." O linguado e o camarão-rosa grande são os líderes de venda da feirante. Peixes e frutos do mar vêm de Santa Catarina, intermediados pelo Ceasa. ONDE Pça. Charles Miller, s/nº, Pacaembu, tel. (11) 99654-1169 (Regina). PEIXARIA NOSSA SENHORA DE FÁTIMA A peixaria com nome da padroeira abriu na Penha em 1967 e mudou-se para o Mercado de Pinheiros há 15 anos. Hoje sob os cuidados de Alexandre e Álvaro, filhos do fundador, a casa fornece o camarão-rosa (R$ 79 o quilo) usado por Fábio Vieira na canjiquinha de camarão com linguiça do restaurante Micaela. Os crustáceos são pescados no litoral sul do país. Outro produto que por vezes o chef compra ali é o robalo, que vem de Fortaleza (R$ 55, mas o preço pode variar). "A peixaria é de fácil acesso e tem bons produtos." ONDE Rua Pedro Cristi, 89, Pinheiros, tel. (11) 3032-1221. A PEIXARIA O restaurante-peixaria do chef Cauê Tessuto (que também colaborou com indicações de endereços) foi um dos lugares escolhidos pelo empresário Sylvio Lazzarini, dono do restaurante Varanda e da distribuidora de carnes Intermezzo. "Você escolhe o peixe, um dos mais frescos de São Paulo, e eles fazem a receita para você. Além de almoçar lá, costumo comprar para levar quando vou fazer churrasco de peixes e frutos do mar." A casa abriu há três anos e vende os pescados frescos ou já preparados em uma das receitas de Cauê. A ideia da casa é fornecer o peixe mais fresco da cidade –para tal, Cauê encabeça um projeto com pescadores de Ilha Comprida, Cananeia e Guape, no litoral sul de São Paulo. ONDE R. Canário, 745, Moema, tel. (11) 5051-0575. * QUEIJOS E EMBUTIDOS IL PIANETA A lojinha fica ao lado da importadora e só vende produtos italianos. "Há muitas opções de massas, queijos e embutidos. Sempre descubro um produto novo", diz a chef Tássia Magalhães (Pomodori). Presunto parma Menatti (R$ 145 o quilo), queijo grana padano Auricchio e massas La Molisana (R$ 5; 500 g) figuram entre os itens que entram em sua cesta de compras. ONDE R. Pedroso Alvarenga, 1.203, Jd. Paulista, tel. (11) 3071-2533. MESTRE QUEIJEIRO Flávio Miyamura, chef do Miya, encantou-se com a variedade de queijos brasileiros -todos fornecidos por produtores com produção máxima de cem unidades por dia- e passou a comprá-los para o restaurante. Para ele, o proprietário, Bruno Cabral, "cuida muito bem das iguarias que recebe e trata, nos mínimos detalhes, da evolução dos queijos que estão na loja". A dica é catalogar os queijos favoritos. "Como a oferta é grande, é bom ter um caderninho para anotar os queijos que ganharam a sua preferência." Outra dica é fotografá-los, para ser mais fácil distingui-los mais tarde. O mais vendido é o raclette de Almenara (R$ 83 o quilo), de Minas. ONDE R. Simão Alvares, 112, Pinheiros, tel. (11) 2369-1087. CASA FLORA A confeiteira Marília Zylbersztajn frequenta o número 207 da rua Santa Rosa, na região central, há 13 anos, desde que conheceu a zona cerealista. "A importadora se diferencia das outras casas da rua por oferecer produtos mais sofisticados a bons preços." Ela costuma comprar queijos variados e presunto cru na loja. "O atendimento é muito bom e os preços são muito honestos", endossa Fábio Vieira, do Micaela. O chef costumalevar dali o arroz bomba que usa para fazer o risoto de tucupi do seu restaurante, além dos queijos espanhóis manchego (R$ 36, 250 gramas) e de cabra (R$ 75, o quilo). ONDE R. Santa Rosa, 207, Brás, tel. (11) 2842-5199. * CAFÉ CAFÉ NUANCE Desde 2003, a marca de Renato Domingues (baseada em Araguari, Minas Gerais) vende cafés especiais garimpados em microlotes de fazendas do cerrado e do sul do Estado e do Paraná. A sommelière de cervejas Carolina Oda conheceu a marca há dois anos, por indicação do especialista Ensei Neto. "Os cafés são muito bons e chegam em casa. Uma ótima opção já que não é em qualquer lugar que achamos cafés especiais e em grão." Por enquanto, os pedidos podem ser feitos pelo e-mail [email protected]. Renato também distribui seu café para alguns estabelecimentos de São Paulo, como o Delicari, o Cafezal (no CCBB) e o Lá da Venda. www.cafenuance.com.br COFFEE LAB A mestre de torra Isabela Raposeiras é uma grande parceira de Ana Soares. "Ela tem lotes especiais e limitados e me ajuda a fornecer blends para consultorias, a exemplo da que fizemos para a Tok&Stok." Aberta em 2009, a cafeteria é quase unanimidade entre amantes de café e vende seus blends e singles –que mudam dependendo da safra e da disponibilidade– também pelo site (loja.coffeelab.com.br). ONDE R. Fradique Coutinho, 1.340, Pinheiros, tel. (11) 3375-7400. * PÃES MR. BAKER Numa esquina movimentada do Itaim Bibi, zona oeste, a padaria Mr. Baker fica pertinho da casa da chef Tássia Magalhães (Pomodori). "Conheço o lugar desde que abriu, há dois anos e meio, e gosto das muito das opções de pães que levam castanhas, grãos integrais. Além disso, sou apaixonada pelo croissant de chocolate deles." Com farinha orgânica e fermentação natural, o multigrãos leva linhaça, gergelim e semente de chia (R$ 49,90 o quilo). ONDE R. Pedroso Alvarenga, 655, Itaim Bibi, tel. (11) 3078-0045. SÃO DOMINGOS Na região central há 101 anos, a padaria está hoje sob o comando dos bisnetos de Domingos Albanese, que nasceu na Calábria em 1861 e veio para o Brasil em 1913. Ali, a chef Tássia Magalhães compra o pão italiano (R$ 6) e a baguete (R$ 7). Há também uma linha de pães especiais recheados, de provolone, escarola e bacon. ONDE R. São Domingos, 330, Bela Vista, tel. (11) 3242-3677. FLÁVIA D'ANGELO MACULAN Flávia é bióloga, mestre em ciências pela Unifesp e figura fácil no Instagram de chefs paulistanos. Isso desde que, no último ano, começou a fazer pães com fermentação natural e ingredientes orgânicos em sua casa. A produção é limitada, os pães são vendidos por encomenda e devem ser retirados no local. Carolina Oda, que conheceu Flávia antes de ela virar padeira, sugere o de chocolate com avelã. Outro sucesso é o de limão-siciliano e papoula e o de polenta bramata italiana, com semente de abóbora e alecrim. flaviadangelo.org/a-padeira.html [email protected] PADARIA ARACAJU "Adoro a padaria Aracaju, lá eu tenho o Alberto, um dos sócios, que está sempre disposto a me ajudar", diz a chef Ana Soares. Dali, ela indica o saloio, feito com farinha branca, sem gordura e sem açúcar, e os caseirinhos, parecido com um pão francês mais amanteigado, com clara de ovo e farinha por cima. ONDE R. Maranhão, 760, Higienópolis, tel. (11) 3666-8857. * BEBIDAS REI DOS WHISKYS Nas palavras da sommelière Carolina Oda, é um supermercado de garrafas. São cerca de 5.000 rótulos entre fermentados e destilados. "Tem de tudo, facilita para quem precisa comprar várias coisas de uma vez só." Danilo Mendes, sommelier da casa, indica como opções do local o uísque Cuttysark oito anos (R$ 54,90) e, entre os vinhos, sugere o sauvignon blanc neozelandês Cloudy Bay (R$ 171). reidoswhiskys.net.br (endereço das quatro lojas) DE LA CROIX Desde 2005, vende apenas vinhos biodinâmicos e/ou orgânicos -todos de pequenos produtores franceses. A casa foi idealizada pelo casal franco-brasileiro Geoffrey de La Croix e Ana Beatriz Rocha Mascarenhas. A confeiteira Marília Zylbersztajn conheceu por indicação de um amigo e virou cliente. "Há um cuidado com a escolha que se reflete na qualidade dos produtos." Outro ponto positivo é o atendimento, que se esforça em ajudar leigos no assunto. Entre as dicas de Geoffrey estão rótulos como Les Chevrefeuilles (R$ 65). ONDE Al. Lorena, 678, Jardins, tel. (11) 3034-6214. * DOCES CENTRAL DO SABOR Esse é o paraíso dos confeiteiros, mas também atrai gente como o chef Marcio Silva e a sommelière Carolina Oda. Marcio compra ali chocolate Callebaut, baunilha, fôrmas e telas de silicone. Já Carolina é fã das assadeiras vendidas na loja. Sempre que passa pela rua Paula Sousa, dá um jeito de entrar lá, nem que seja só para fuçar. "Ou pegar um caixa de chocolate 'top', que é sempre bom ter em casa." Aberta há dez anos, a loja importa produtos como as fôrmas italianas da marca Pavoni. ONDE R. Paula Sousa, 190, Centro, tel. (11) 3229-7683. * UTENSÍLIOS TENMAN-YÁ O carro-chefe da loja na Liberdade são os utensílios orientais -importados como os pratos de porcelana japonesa (R$ 49,90 a unidade), as panelas wok coreanas (R$ 112) e as tigelas de melamina chinesa (R$ 28,80, a unidade). Mas vale a pena buscar facas e mandolins (descascador de legumes). Uma faca para sashimi pode sair por R$ 1.400. ONDE R. dos Estudantes, 19, Liberdade, tel. (11) 3209-9960. M. DRAGONETTI Quando abriu, em 1965, chamava-se Bazar Priscila. Hoje, leva o sobrenome das donas, Claudia e Valéria, sobrinhas netas da fundadora. Há cerca de 20 mil itens nacionais e importados. Ali, é possível encontrar ralo de pia, borracha de panela de pressão, porcelana branca. Atrai chefs como Márcio Silva (Buzina) e Marília Zylbersztajn, quando precisam comprar algo rapidamente. Produtos para forno e fogão são os líderes de venda da loja: uma frigideira com superfície antiaderente da Nigro Eterna sai por R$ 79,80. ONDE Av. Santo Amaro, 898, Vila Nova Conceição, tel. (11) 3846-8782. MULTIPRESENTES E DI PRATOS As lojas da rua Paula Souza –assim mesmo, no plural– receberam indicações de quatro dos entrevistados. O logradouro é popular por reunir estabelecimentos com utensílios a bons preços, como as lojas Multipresentes e o Di Pratos 1 e 2. "É uma rua excelente para o cara que está começando a faculdade. Não tão fino, mas excelente", definiu Tássia Magalhães, do Pomodori. Foi na época da faculdade, inclusive, que a sommelière Carolina Oda começou a vasculhar itens por ali. A variedade é outro ponto forte: há desde descascadores de batatas até processadores superpotentes. ONDE R. Paula Souza, 262, centro, tel. (11) 3312-2300. * ERVAS E TEMPEROS EMPÓRIO POITARA A paraense Antônia Padvaiskas mora em São Paulo há 20 anos e vende produtos da região amazônica por Facebook, e-mail e telefone. Fábio Vieira (Micaela) conheceu Antônia por um amigo em comum e hoje compra dela sementes (como a puxuri e patchouli), além de tucupi, jambu e castanhas frescas. A qualidade? "Consigo encontrar produtos extremamente específicos". A castanha-do-pará fresca, mais leitosa, é o carro-chefe, assim como a polpa de açaí e de cupuaçu e a farinha de uarini, o "cuscuz amazonense". Encomendas pelo e-mail [email protected] ou pelo tel. (11) 97310-5024. BOMBAY HERBS & SPICES "O consumidor não tem que levar nada, somente a disponibilidade de conhecer novos temperos." Esse é o conselho de Marília Zylbersztajn para quem visita a casa de Nelo e Gisele Linguanotto: estar aberto e provar produtos como o NoSalt (R$ 15; 70 g), mistura de temperos que salga o prato sem sódio; o molho de pimenta fermentado Chilli Code (R$ 10; 60 ml) e o molho de pimenta Trinidad Scorpion, tida por alguns como a mais forte do mundo (R$ 22; 35 g). Os produtos são todos embalados pela marca e vendidos em vários pontos espalhados pela cidade. bombayherbsspices.com.br * PASTAS E ENLATADOS OTTOGUI O chef Flávio Miyamura conheceu a mercearia do Bom Retiro, aberta em 1988, por indicação da sogra coreana. "Gosto da variedades de ingredientes, de nacionalidades diferentes, que não encontramos na Liberdade. O missô preto (R$ 25 o quilo), por exemplo, só encontramos lá." A especialidade do Ottogui são os importados da Coreia, mas a oferta inclui molhos, pastas e temperos usados também em outras latitudes daculinária asiática, como os molhos de ostra (R$ 13) e de peixe, a pasta de pimenta coreana e o curry em pó indiano (R$ 11,50). ONDE R. Três Rios, 245, Bom Retiro, tel. (11) 3326-1419. MAXIFOUR Especializada em produtos libaneses, a importadora e distribuidora fornece o tahine para o chef Stephan Kawijian, do Sainte Marie. Da marca Zeeny (extraído de gergelim libanês, R$ 22,60; 500 g), a pasta serve de substrato para preparar o babaganoush e o homus de seu restaurante. Faz entregas pela cidade e os pedidos podem ser feitos por telefone. ONDE Al. dos Nhambiquaras, 374, Moema, tel. (11) 3586-1200. * OS LOCAIS MAIS CITADOS PELOS ESPECIALISTAS Da lista, são "hors concours" a Casa Santa Luzia e o Mercado Municipal, citados por vários chefs. O Santa Luzia (al. Lorena, 1.471, Jardim Paulista), empório luxuoso, reúne cerca de 15.000 itens, muitos importados. O Mercadão (r. da Cantareira, 306, Luz), um centro de abastecimento da cidade, tem boxes de carnes, frutas, especiarias, laticínios, entre outros. | comida |
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] | A polonesa Kasia Patyra, 31, e a belga Kim De Craene, 38, encontraram-se no Brasil e decidiram unir os três países nos doces da Beza (suspiro em polonês). São tortas, brownies e waffles frescos, delicados e saborosos, de produção artesanal, com ingredientes como chocolate belga, ovos, fermento e açúcar orgânicos. Além das encomendas, Kasia e Kim também fornecem suas guloseimas para a loja Amoreira, na Vila Madalena, zona oeste, e o café Beluga, na Vila Buarque, no centro. Vale a pena o piernik (R$ 45), pão de mel com especiarias, recheado com geleia de damasco e coberto com chocolate meio amargo. E também as tortas recheadas com caramelo, mix de castanhas, damasco, ameixa e goiaba (entre R$ 60 e R$ 90). Há ainda os waffles belgas, feitos com uma receita tradicional do país de origem (R$ 20, 200 g), e os brownies (R$ 4), de casquinha crocante e recheio delicado, que foram inspirados em uma receita norte-americana de 1940. A dupla ainda estuda a possibilidade de abrir uma casa própria, mas pretende ampliar o leque de locais que vendem seus produtos, embalados em papelão reciclável. As encomendas também podem ser retiradas no ateliê, em Pinheiros. ONDE COMPRAR BEZA beza.com.br; tel. (11) 99616 -8301 AMOREIRA r. dos Macunis, 510 BELUGA café r. Dr. Cesário Mota Jr., 379 | comida |
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] | Pinheiros é um bairro normalmente agitado, principalmente próximo às ruas Teodoro Sampaio e Cardeal Arcoverde. Uma área verde e calma no meio de tudo, como a Casa Jaya, é uma chance de fugir do caos e comer bem. O local tem almoços veganos com farto balcão de saladas e duas opções de prato quente. No dia da visita, um deles era refogado de tofu e grão-de-bico, arroz integral e escondidinho de palmito. É possível optar só pelas saladas (R$ 19,50, bufê ilimitado) ou pelo prato quente (R$ 17,50); os dois juntos saem por R$ 24,50. No mesmo sistema (salada à vontade e dois pratos quentes), funciona perto dali o Barãozinho, que leva esse nome por ser filial do Barão Natural, na região central. Nesta semana, aliás, começou a funcionar a terceira unidade da casa ali nas vizinhanças, na rua Mateus Grou, 72. No Barãozinho, o bufê de saladas é mais modesto, mas o prato quente vegano e o preço compensam. Bife de soja à milanesa, arroz integral, lentilha e legumes salteados, com as saladas, saem por R$ 15. Por mais R$ 3, dá para beber mate com limão à vontade durante o almoço. BARÃOZINHO Onde r. João Moura, 861; tel. (11) 3384-9766 Horário seg. a sex., 12h às 15h, sáb. 12h às 16h Outra Sugestão escondidinho de batata e abóbora, arroz, feijão, legumes salteados e salada (R$ 15) CASA JAYA Onde r. Capote Valente, 305; tel. (11) 2935-6987 Horário seg. a sex., 11h30 às 15h Outra Sugestão penne ao molho de tomates, azeitonas e manjericão (R$ 17,50) | comida |
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] | A Gastromotiva, organização que promove a inclusão social por meio da gastronomia desde 2006, terá uma sede em Curitiba ainda neste semestre. A partir de parcerias, o projeto montará uma escola de cozinha e oferecerá seu curso de capacitação –como já faz em São Paulo, no Rio e em Salvador. Segundo o fundador da Gastromotiva, David Hertz, a região tem um mercado em potencial para receber os futuros alunos. Para realizar o curso, com duração de cinco meses, é preciso comprovar renda familiar de até três salários mínimos. As aulas abordam elementos como ecogastronomia (em que o alimento é bom e justo) e empreendedorismo. JANTAR BENEFICENTE Como uma forma de arrecadar fundos, a organização está trazendo para o Brasil o chef Quique Dacosta, do estrelado restaurante homônimo em Alicante, na Espanha. Quique fará, em 4 de março, um jantar para 40 pessoas na região do Morumbi, em São Paulo. Esta é a segunda edição do jantar "Great Food for a Better World" –a primeira edição foi realizada em março do ano passado no Eleven Madison Park, em Nova York, também em prol da Gastromotiva. De acordo com a entidade, a verba do jantar (que contará com um leilão silencioso) será revertida para a formação de mil jovens neste ano. O menu de sete etapas (R$ 2.500 por pessoa) deverá ter pratos como a sopa fria de frutas vermelhas e crustáceos com ervas silvestres. Há poucas unidades à venda pelo site quiquenobrasil.com. Para quem não for ao jantar e quiser ajudar a organização, é possível doar qualquer valor via crowdfunding em gastromotiva.org. | comida |
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] | O ambiente descontraído, começando pela ampla varanda frontal, é o primeiro atrativo para o público da nova fase do restaurante Figo. Num bairro residencial, sem muitos executivos, essa aura ajuda a deixar à vontade o pessoal da região. Inaugurada há quatro anos pela chef Luiza Hoffmann, desde 2013 a casa pertence à administradora Maria Fernanda La Regina, 42, que abandonou a carreira empresarial para se aventurar em um novo ramo. O restaurante passou por uma reforma –a cozinha também sofreu mudanças, mas manteve o estilo eclético, procurando leveza e modernidade. No final do ano, assumiu a chef paulista Stella Roux, 27, que já trabalhava na casa. A jovem chef iniciou a carreira no litoral paulista com o chef Eudes Assis; depois foi por um ano e meio estagiária no estrelado À La Côte Saint Jacques, na França, conhecido por seu apuro técnico. O cardápio não tem uma linha muito definida, é difícil notar um conjunto, como se fosse uma reunião um pouco aleatória de pratos apreciados pela proprietária ou pela chef. Mas tem vários bons achados. As ostras frescas têm um toque sutil do vinagrete da casa; já nos tentáculos de polvo é tão sutil o vinagrete de caju que mal se percebe (mas não sei se faz falta). Um prato que vale pedir como entrada (meia porção), pois é mais leve do que parece e instiga o paladar, é o nhoque de beterraba com creme de parmesão e aspargos. O robalo na manteiga de sálvia é feito com precisão e o risoto de banana-da-terra, que poderia ser enjoativo, é equilibrado: devem ser lembranças da cozinha caiçara. Já a moqueca baiana de pupunha com camarão sofre pelos acompanhamentos –a farofa necessitaria de mais caldo; e "o arroz de 12 grãos", que pode funcionar como centro de um prato, aqui atrapalha (arroz branco ou de leite de coco iriam melhor). O bacalhau com legumes confitados, além de saboroso, acerta no ponto do peixe e na textura dos vegetais (tomate, pimentão, batata e cebola). Entre os cozidos, é destaque a fraldinha na cerveja com legumes e purê de batata. Sobremesa leve e saborosa: terrine de maçã com sorvete de creme e tuille de amêndoas. A conta sai um pouco alta porque as entradas são caras; os pratos, nem tanto. FIGO ENDEREÇO r. Diogo Jácome, 372, Vila Nova Conceição, tel. (11) 3044-3193 HORÁRIO de seg. a qui., das 12h às 15h30 e das 19h às 23h; sex. e sáb., das 12h às 16h e das 19h às 23h; dom., das 12h às 16h30 AMBIENTE descontraído, com uma gostosa varanda na entrada SERVIÇO correto e atencioso VINHOS oferta bem distribuída, com opções de meia garrafa PREÇOS entradas, de R$ 28 a R$ 58; pratos, de R$ 48 a R$ 80; sobremesas, de R$ 15 a R$ 26; almoço executivo, R$ 55 | comida |
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] | São Paulo vai receber, no dia 7 de março, o primeiro campeonato brasileiro de Aeropress, instrumento que parece uma seringa gigante e dá origem na xícara a um café com textura encorpada e complexidades de aroma e sabor similares às do coado. O evento, credenciado pela World Aeropress Championship, entidade internacional que valida torneios regionais pelo mundo, é promovido aqui pela FAF (Fazenda Ambiental Fortaleza), que cultiva grãos em Mococa (SP), em parceria com a mestre de torra Isabela Raposeiras (Coffee Lab) e Eystein Veflingstad, barista campeão de Aeropress na Noruega em 2014. A ideia dos organizadores é colocar o Brasil no circuito mundial da categoria e chamar a atenção no país para esse sistema de filtragem pela pressurização da água. Na competição, aberta a baristas de todo o país, as preparações serão avaliadas às cegas por Felipe Croce, da FAF, Raposeiras e Eystein. Além de levar para casa uma Aeropress, o vencedor ganhará uma passagem para Seattle, nos EUA, onde irá representar o país no campeonato mundial, que ocorrerá em abril, durante a feira da Specialty Coffee Association of America (a associação de cafés especiais de lá). "Queremos nos conectar com profissionais do mundo todo porque isso vai estimular ainda mais cultura dos cafés especiais no Brasil", diz Croce. As inscrições só poderão ser feitas no dia 23 de fevereiro pelo e-mail aero [email protected], a partir das 10h. | comida |
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] | A tentativa de incluir a gastronomia como beneficiária da Lei Rouanet fracassou. O Projeto de Lei 6562/2013, de autoria do deputado Gabriel Guimarães (PT-MG), que faria a alteração da Rouanet para incluir esse segmento como beneficiário da política de incentivo fiscal, foi arquivado, em 31/1, pela Mesa Diretora da Câmara dos Deputados. O texto, apresentado em 2013 pelo deputado petista, redefinia as regras para a captação de recursos de projetos culturais via Lei Rouanet (de 1991), permitindo que pesquisas e publicações ligadas à gastronomia obtivessem incentivos fiscais, da mesma forma que filmes, peças de teatro e livros. Em dezembro de 2014, o Instituto Atá, do chef Alex Atala (D.O.M., Dalva e Dito e Riviera), lançou a campanha Gastronomia É Cultura / Eu Como Cultura, com o objetivo de reunir simpatizantes e pressionar o Legislativo para a aprovação do projeto. Eventualmente, a Casa pode retomar a pauta. | comida |
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] | O último guia "Michelin" para restaurantes franceses concedeu seu maior prêmio a dois novos restaurantes, incluindo um restaurante renomado da Champs-Elysées, cujo chefe assumiu sua posição em julho depois de ter ganhado o prêmio das três estrelas em seu antigo trabalho. Somente em Paris existem nove restaurantes com as três estrelas no guia "Michelin" de 2015, incluindo o último para o Pavillon Ledoyen. Seu chef, Yannick Alleno, já havia ganhado o prêmio de três estrelas em 2007 por seu trabalho na cozinha do Hotel Le Meurice –ele saiu de lá em janeiro de 2013. Um time de pai e filho chamados Rene and Maxime Meilleur (ou, "o melhor", em francês) também levou o prêmio de três estrelas para o seu restaurante La Bouitte, que foi construído em uma plantação de batatas, de acordo com a família. Ministro dos Negócios Estrangeiros francês, Laurent Fabius, que também está encarregado do turismo, apresentou o guia "Michelin" para os melhores restaurantes do país. A França recebe mais visitantes estrangeiros que qualquer outro país no mundo e está com o projeto de transformar essa imagem de que o país não recebe bem seus turistas, especialmente nos restaurantes. "Gastronomia é uma parte muito importante da herança francesa, assim como nossos campos e monumentos", disse Fabius, em um tweet na segunda-feira (2), depois da cerimônia que aconteceu em um salão dourado do restaurante Alleno, em frente ao rio Sena. A empresa Michelin estava tentando encorajar mais viagens de carro e, portanto, aumentar sua venda de pneus, quando lançou esse guia em 1900. Nessa época, o guia era distribuído gratuitamente e também listava postos de gasolina, mecânicos e hotéis, assim como mapas da cidade. Atualmente, a marca tem diferentes guias, alguns focando em restaurantes, outros em uma variedade de aspectos relacionados ao turismo. A companhia expandiu para também incluir versões separadas para Nova York, Tóquio, Hong Kong e Macau. | comida |
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] | O Rio de Janeiro sedia, neste fim de semana, o evento H2OH! No Parque, classificado como o primeiro encontro nacional de food trucks por reunir 14 trucks de diversas regiões do país. Com curadoria do chef Thomas Troisgros (Olympe), o evento ocorre no Parque Laje, das 15h às 21h. Chili na Rua, Bohemia Food Truck, Buzina Food Truck, Versão Brasileira, Cadê Meu Brigadeiro, Por aí, Tapí, Nhac, Larica, Rio Food Truck Bar, Suddog, Venga, Los Mendozitos e Food Truck H2OH! são os participantes. Além dos food trucks, o evento contará com música ao vivo. Os DJs Manie Dansante, a banda Afro Jazz e a Roda de Samba da General Glicério prometem animar os convidados. O ator Rodrigo Hilbert, que apresenta o programa culinário "Tempero de Família" (GNT), vai ensinar receitas e oferecer quitutes para degustação no truck da patrocinadora do evento. O evento, cuja entrada é gratuita, oferecerá bicicletário para os convidados que resolverem deixar o carro em casa. QUANDO 31 de janeiro e 1º de fevereiro HORÁRIO 15h às 21h ONDE Parque Laje (r.Jardim Botânico, 414) | comida |
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] | O crítico de gastronomia da Folha Josimar Melo, a editora-assistente de "Comida e Turismo" Ana Paula Boni e o editor-assistente da "TV Folha" Douglas Lambert conversaram nesta sexta-feira (30) sobre o Soylent, pó nutritivo que virou hit nos EUA e tem sido usado para substituir os alimentos que ingerimos, com o princípio de economizar tempo e dinheiro. Josimar Melo, que provou o shake em uma experiência para o caderno, não acredita que o alimento seja saudável. "Teoricamente, os seus fabricantes falaram que é um alimento saudável porque contém todos os nutrientes. Mas não sei se física e mentalmente as pessoas vão ficar bem consumindo só o Soylent; eu imagino as pessoas subnutridas com o passar do tempo", disse. Já Lambert, que passou dois dias vivendo à base de Soylent, questiona o que leva uma pessoa a substituir suas refeições pelo produto. "Eu fico pensando que tipo de vida a pessoa tem para escolher consumir só o Soylent e largar mão da comida. Pra mim, ele é um alimento para situações extremas, e não pro dia a dia", afirmou. O líquido bege, bem mais claro que um café com leite e encorpado como milk-shake, foi tomado em temperatura ambiente e também com gelo. Não causou boa impressão entre os entendidos em gastronomia, que deram suas opiniões na edição desta sexta do "Comida". | comida |
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] | Tudo começou em 2012, quando o engenheiro elétrico Rob Rhinehart passava dias fechado em um apartamento em São Francisco, com dois sócios, tentando desenvolver um software. O trio vivia com recursos limitados (US$ 175 mil investidos pela incubadora Y Combinator), o dinheiro estava acabando e nada de o projeto dar certo. Interromper o trabalho para comer, e ainda gastar preciosos tostões, tornou-se um fardo. A solução inventada por Rhinehart –uma fórmula que reúne os nutrientes fundamentais para a sobrevivência, como proteínas, carboidratos e lipídios– fez tanto sucesso que ele desistiu do software para lançá-la no mercado. Três anos depois, o negócio acaba de receber aporte de US$ 20 milhões do fundo de investimento Andreessen Horowitz para incrementar a produção e o sistema de entregas, que não deram conta de tanta demanda. O inventor não revela qual o tamanho da produção nem para quem vende, mas o site cita entre o público-alvo um DJ que não sai do estúdio, um casal fazendo trekking e uma mulher que vai do escritório direto para a academia –todos jovens. O nome foi inspirado no filme "Soylent Green "" No Mundo de 2020", de 1973. Na trama futurista, o planeta sofre com a carência de alimentos e a população vive da bolacha soylent green, produzida secretamente com carne humana. Dirigida por Richard Fleischer, a película, por sua vez, é baseada no livro de ficção científica "Make Room! Make Room!", de 1966, onde surgiu o nome soylent pela primeira vez –lá, ele é uma carne feita de soja (soy) e lentilha (lentil). O Soylent de Rhinehart tem fórmula conhecida, mas ainda assim divide opiniões. Para degustá-lo, a Folha reuniu o crítico Josimar Melo e os chefs Ana Luiza Trajano (Brasil a Gosto) e Alberto Landgraf (Epice), nada simpáticos à invenção. Mas há quem veja a ideia com entusiasmo. Um dos fundadores do Instituto Atá e ex-dono de restaurante, o publicitário Rafael Mantesso, 31, acha que há mercado para o Soylent mesmo entre quem, como ele, ama comer. "Me fechei em casa por quatro meses, para me dedicar a um projeto, e tenho vivido de delivery. Não tenho paciência para cozinhar para mim. Acho genial a ideia de apelar para algo assim em momentos específicos." O KIT Inclui sachês com o pó e garrafinhas com óleos de canola e algas. Misturados a água, resultam em 2 litros (2.000 calorias): 500 ml no café, 500 ml no almoço, 500 ml no jantar e dois lanches de 250 ml. O pacote para sete dias sai por U$ 85 (R$ 220); ainda não entrega no Brasil. A jarra (U$ 20; R$ 52) é comprada à parte (soylent.me ) * DEPOIMENTO: Voltar a mastigar após dois dias foi um grande alívio Veja vídeo | comida |
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] | Recém-saída da churrasqueira, com um quê de defumada, recebe um fio de azeite e flor de sal. Ou no copo, em forma de suco, com vodca e molho inglês, vira uma versão de bloody mary. Beterraba pode ser entrada, sopa, recheio, drinque... Tão versátil, virou protagonista de uma salada da chef Janaina Rueda, do Bar da Dona Onça, onde aparece em seis formas diferentes. "A beterraba fica incrível em todas as texturas. Por ser bem doce, é bom combiná-la com ingredientes que são seus opostos. A acidez do limão, por exemplo, refresca", ensina a chef. O ingrediente tem valor afetivo para Ivan Ralston, do Tuju. "Remete à minha família judaica, que tem o hábito de comer beterraba com frequência." No menu do restaurante, há uma nova entrada com o tubérculo, em que o cozinheiro o assa na churrasqueira por quatro horas, leva ao forno por mais oito horas e, por fim, o defuma. Temperado com sal, pimenta-do-reino, vinagre de framboesa e azeite, é servido com coalhada e folhas de espinafre. "A beterraba tem um sabor doce interessante, além de ser refrescante pela quantidade de água. Acho que, dessa forma, combina muito com o verão." Veja onde provar os pratos: SEIS EM UM Beterraba em seis versões com bacon e queijo feta ONDE Bar da Dona Onça (av. Ipiranga, 200, República; tel. 11/3257-2016) QUANTO R$ 29 RISOTO PÚRPURA Com açafrão e creme de burrata ONDE Loi (r. Dr. Melo Alves, 674, Cerqueira César; tel. 11/3063-0977) QUANTO R$ 86 SOPA FRIA Gazpacho com iogurte e raiz forte ONDE Le Jazz (r. dos Pinheiros, 254; tel. 11/2359-8141 e mais dois endereços) QUANTO R$ 23 UNS BONS DRINQUES Beterraba, laranja, limoncello, licor de kiwi e vodka ONDE Mercearia do Francês (r. Itacolomi, 636, Higienópolis; tel. 11/3214-1295) QUANTO R$ 27,50 CORTADA BEM FININHA Em carpaccio com salada de azedinha e pecorino ONDE Condessa (r. João Lourenço, 367, Vila Nova Conceição; tel. 11/3842-5141) QUANTO R$ 35 NO NHOQUE Com creme de parmesão e aspargos ONDE Figo (r. Diogo Jácome, 372, Vila Nova Conceição; tel. 11/3044-3193) QUANTO R$ 52 MASSA RECHEADA Tortelli de beterraba com ricota de búfala na manteiga e sálvia ONDE Ella (r. Costa Carvalho, 138, Pinheiros; tel. 11/3034-1267) QUANTO R$ 36 ASSADA NA SALADA Com crostini de roquefort ONDE Ici Brasserie (shop. JK Iguatemi, av. Pres. Juscelino Kubitschek, 2041, Vila Olímpia; tel. 11/3078-1313) QUANTO R$ 28 / R$ 40 UMA BOLA DE SORVETE Com maçã verde, queijo de cabra, mel, nozes e folhas ONDE Mimo (r. Caconde, 118, Jardim Paulista; tel. 11/3052-2517) QUANTO R$ 31 ENTRADA COM COALHADA Assada na churrasqueira, com coalhada e folhas de espinafre ONDE Tuju (r. Fradique Coutinho, 1.248, Pinheiros; tel. 11/2691-5548) QUANTO R$ 23 * SOBRE A BETERRABA Suas folhas devem ser brilhantes e frescas e as raízes, firmes, sem mofo, cortes ou arranhões (as pequenas e médias tendem a ser mais tenras). A beterraba mais comum é a redonda e vermelha. Está disponível o ano todo, mas o auge é de agosto a outubro. Vai bem com bacon, salmão defumado, creme-azedo, queijo de cabra e raiz-forte. Não descasque-a antes do cozimento, para não perder a cor. Asse, grelhe ou cozinhe inteira, até ficar macia ao ser perfurada. Fonte: "O Grande Livro dos Ingredientes" (Publifolha) | comida |
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] | Viver à base de Soylent não é fácil, mas também não chega a ser difícil. Só é chato. O sabor, embora não seja ruim, lembra shakes com cheiro de baunilha e enjoa rápido. Beber o mesmo creminho bege e meio doce no café da manhã, no almoço e no jantar por três dias e meio é deprimente. Quando você começa a se acostumar, surge a vontade de mastigar. No final do segundo dia, com fome e sem paciência para esperar minha "janta" gelar (ao natural o negócio é menos tolerável), eu não resisti e comi um daqueles pasteizinhos de vento vendidos na feira. Foi só um, mas estar mastigando de novo me deu um alívio surpreendente. Fora isso, meu organismo não mudou. Sem enjoo, diarreia, moleza ou ganho de disposição –para o corpo, comida e Soylent são o mesmo. Talvez a única vantagem esteja na economia de tempo. Em vez de gastar a minha hora de almoço num restaurante, pude ir para casa e "comer" jogando videogame. Por melhor que seja o jogo, ou pior a receita, porém, não vale trocar berinjela à parmigiana por meia hora de Playstation. Comer é mais do que uma simples perda de tempo. | comida |
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] | A cultura da bicicleta em São Paulo chega também nas feirinhas gastronômicas, com as food bikes –versão em duas rodas e ambientalmente corretas dos food trucks. Em janeiro, elas podem ser encontradas em dois eventos no MIS (Museu da Imagem e do Som) e no shopping Lar Center. No próximo sábado (31), o MIS recebe a sétima edição do Conexão Cultural São Paulo. Com a temática "Transforma SP", o evento apresenta projetos inovadores que acontecem na cidade. No campo gastronômico, estão confirmadas as food bikes Bike Café, Bike Burguer, Pudim a Gosto, Los Mendozitos, de vinhos, e Le Sacolé. Os preços variam entre R$ 15 e R$ 20. No Le Sacolé, é possível encontrar sacolés –também conhecidos como "geladinhos"– de sabores diferentes como maracujá com gengibre e laranja com manjericão. No shopping Lar Center, a praça de eventos recebe o "Bistrô Lounge Já para o Lar Center", com dez opções de food bikes e decoração moderna. Até o dia 8 de fevereiro, das 12 às 22h, estarão disponíveis as food bikes Dolcellino, Pudim Mania e Picoleteria, entre outras. Uma das opções da Picoleteria é o picolé recheado com brigadeiro de panela e coberto com chocolate meio-amargo, a R$ 8. No Pudim Mania, os sabores são pistache, chocolate Belga, Ovomaltine, fava de baunilha, doce de leite e avelã, a R$ 10 cada um. | comida |
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] | A equipe da Noruega venceu a competição Bocuse D'or de 2015, realizada nesta terça (27) e quarta (28) em Lyon, na França. O time foi comandado pelo chef Orjan Johannessen. O segundo lugar ficou com os Estados Unidos –que tinha sido classificado em sétimo lugar na edição de 2013. A equipe foi comandada pelo chef Philip Tessier. O terceiro lugar ficou com a equipe sueca, do chef Tommy Myllymaki. Veja as fotos De acordo com a premiação, o melhor cozinheiro foi o finlandês Antti Lukkari. O prêmio especial de peixes foi dado ao time japonês e o de carnes ao finlandês. Segundo o site "Fine Dining Lovers", o presidente honorário da competição, Grant Achatz, disse: "Tem sido uma experiência incrível em Lyon e eu provei muita comida, toda ela excelente. Eu diria que fica bem claro quando se está sentado aqui, vendo todas essas equipes se esforçando, quão duro é o trabalho feito." Chefs representaram times de 24 países de todo o mundo na competição bienal, criada em 1987 pelo chef francês Paul Bocuse. As equipes trabalham por dois anos aperfeiçoando pratos de peixe e carne para apresentar aos jurados da competição. O Brasil não participou desta edição da competição. A próxima edição acontecerá em Budapeste. Ranking de 2015 1 - Noruega 2 - EUA 3 - Suécia 4 - Finlândia 5 - Japão 6 - Dinamarca 7 - França 8 - Islândia 9 - Holanda 10 - Reino Unido 11 - Alemanha 12 - Austrália 13 - Hungria 14 - Estônia 15 - Argentina 16 - Suíça 17 - Cingapura 18 - Coreia do Sul 19 - Marrocos 20 - Malásia 21 - Canadá 22 - Chile 23 - Espanha 24 - Guatemala | comida |
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] | Pelo menos 48 pessoas se intoxicaram na região de Chuquisaca, no centro-sul da Bolívia, ao ingerir, durante um velório, alimentos contaminados por um inseticida. O diretor do Serviço Departamental de Saúde, Martín Maturano, declarou à rádio "Erbol" que a intoxicação aconteceu porque a comida estava contaminada com um inseticida tóxico denominado folidol. Segundo a rádio, as pessoas que prepararam os alimentos do velório confundiram o inseticida com óleo de cozinha. Entre os intoxicados há várias crianças, entre as quais três são menores de cinco anos, acrescentou Maturano. A maioria das pessoas intoxicadas foi internada em hospitais da cidade de Sucre e se encontram estáveis, com exceção de uma menina de 12 anos, que foi transferida a tratamento intensivo. | comida |
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] | Estão abertas até esta sexta-feira (30) as inscrições para o 3º Concurso Brasileiro de Cervejas, que acontece paralelamente ao Festival Brasileiro da Cerveja 2015. Considerado um dos maiores encontros do setor no país, o festival –que é realizado anualmente em Blumenau (SC)– neste ano ocorre do dia 11 ao dia 14 de março. A última edição da competição teve mais de 414 cervejas, 76 estilos e 81 cervejarias concorrendo. Podem participar cervejarias brasileiras legal e juridicamente constituídas e que até o momento da inscrição estejam regularmente registradas no Ministério da Agricultura ou com documento que prove o pedido de registro. A taxa de inscrição para cada estilo de cerveja é de R$ 160. Além disso, após o cadastro, os inscritos deverão enviar amostras em um volume total de 4.000 para cada cerveja inscrita, conforme explica o regulamento oficial disponível no site. Para se inscrever, basta entrar no site www.festivaldacerveja.com/2014/concursos. | comida |
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] | Inspetores da Vigilância Sanitária encontraram baratas em um dos restaurantes do chef Gordon Ramsay, no centro de Londres. Segundo o "The Telegraph", nas áreas de preparo de comida e lavagem de louça do restaurante Maze, foram encontrados sete insetos. Os profissionais determinaram: "Métodos apropriados devem ser usados para eliminar a praga". O restaurante, que chega a cobrar 165 libras (R$ 643) por um menu-degustação harmonizado, recebeu duas estrelas no ranking de higiene da Vigilância Sanitária –na avaliação de outubro de 2013, recebeu quatro estrelas. Um porta-voz de Ramsay afirmou que este foi um incidente isolado e que foram tomadas ações imediatas para resolver o problema. O chef é conhecido por programas de TV como o "Kitchen Nightmares", em que critica e remodela restaurantes em crise. | comida |
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] | Se hoje é possível carregar a bebida com mais praticidade, é graças a uma cervejaria de Newark, nos Estados Unidos, que desenvolveu a técnica. Em 24 de janeiro de 1935, as marcas Krueger Finest Beer e Krueger Cream Ale começaram a comercializar as primeiras latinhas de cerveja em Richmond, Virginia. No começo, a invenção enfrentou problemas, já que a bebida não se adaptava ao novo invólucro e explodia a lata. "Nunca conseguiremos substituir as garrafas de vidro", diziam os cervejeiros da época. No entanto, com algumas modificações no revestimento das latas, a invenção se consolidou como a maneira mais prática, leve e fácil de consumir e transportar a bebida. | comida |
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] | Nos EUA, passar um tempo em um café com animais de estimação é um conceito tão exótico que as pessoas não se cansam de falar dele. No ano passado, um café que aceitava gatos tinha filas que davam volta no quarteirão. E outro café para gatos em Manhattan já está com as reservas esgotadas por mais de dois meses. Mas no Japão, cafés com gatos são só o começo. Você pode conhecer um café que tem coelhos ou outro, em Tóquio, que abriga duas cabras. E mais: não são só animais domésticos. Você também pode passar um tempo em um café segurando uma coruja. Julgando pelo quão complicado foi conseguir reservas no Fukuro no Mise ("Café de Corujas"), os cafés com corujas são uma febre no Japão tanto quanto os cafés com gatos são nos EUA. Para conseguir um lugar, visitantes tem que esperar uma hora na fila antes do estabelecimento abrir. Mas, quando eu apareci duas horas antes fui sortuda o suficiente para conseguir o último lugar numa sessão duas horas depois. Não há reembolso da taxa de US$ 17 (cerca de R$ 44), se você chegar atrasado, você perde seu lugar. Lá dentro, eu recebi uma lista com instruções detalhadas em inglês. Por exemplo, não tocar as corujas na cabeça ou nas costas. E, apesar das corujas serem muito mansas, "elas não podem ser treinadas para fazer suas necessidades em locais determinados como cachorros. Então, por favor, seja compreensivo se elas fizerem cocô em você!". A mulher no comando também deu um grande discurso e uma demonstração em japonês antes de permitir que cada convidado segurasse uma coruja. As corujas vem em vários tamanhos e espécies, de pequenas a bem grandes, incluindo um corujão-orelhudo (ou corujão-da-virgínia) com garras compridas e um bico impressionante. Cada pássaro tem uma amarra no pé, que você segura em uma mão enquanto posicionam a ave em seu braço. Macias e com olhos bem abertos, as corujas parecem calmas apesar do pequeno cômodo estar lotado. Os funcionários colocam a coruja no seu ombro ou na sua cabeça, se você preferir (eu recusei essa opção porque fui avisada que o animal ainda não controlava totalmente o momento de suas necessidades). Os funcionários também podem te ajudar caso a coruja comece a bater suas asas. Levantando sua mão para cima, no ar, usualmente faz com que o animal se acalme, mas aparentemente eu estava levantando meu braço de um jeito errado, até que um funcionário o ajeitou na posição certa. Se você achar que já aguentou demais e só quer ver as corujas com as outras pessoas, os funcionários levam a ave embora. Fotografias são proibidas em alguns dos lugares mais inusitados no Japão, mas esse não é um desses. No entanto, o uso de flash e filmar é proibido – mas nada vai te impedir de postar nas redes sociais uma foto sua segurando uma coruja, que é o desejo da maioria dos visitantes. Diferentemente de outros cafés de animais no Japão, esse lugar só leva esse nome, porque não serve comida e somente uma pequena bebida é oferecida (se conter álcool, é preciso pagar uma taxa extra). A bebida chega em um embrulho de plástico decorado com uma ilustração de coruja feita à caneta. Mas ninguém repara na sua bebida até o final da atividade, que inclui a distribuição de souvenirs. Cada item é exibido e o convidado levanta a mão quando deseja o objeto. Se muitas pessoas levantarem a mão ao mesmo tempo, decide-se através de pedra, papel ou tesoura quem vai levar o presente. Os souvenirs são álbuns de fotografia, pingentes para celular, batons e panos decoradas com corujas. OUTROS ESTABELECIMENTOS Se as corujas não são suficientes para satisfazer sua vontade de conviver com aves de rapina, também existe o Falconers Cafe ("Café de Falcões") em Mitaka, na mesma região que o Museu Ghibli, em Tóquio. Quando ele não está muito cheio, as únicas aves de lá serão as dos donos do estabelecimento – são quatro gaviões-asa-de-telha e um falcão peregrino que os visitantes não podem tocar, só vê-los. Mas donos de gaviões também visitam o estabelecimento com seus pássaros e alguns podem permitir que os visitantes toquem neles. Esse é um café de verdade, servindo pratos de um menu em inglês – o nome dos pratos são inspirados em nomes de aves de rapina. Existem outros cafés de coruja no Japão. Todos com horários de funcionamento e regras diferentes, por isso é recomendado que você procure ajuda de alguém que fale japonês para buscar nos sites e fazer ligações para os estabelecimentos. Fukuro no Mise também tem alguns horários diferentes, então é melhor você buscar no site deles, em japonês, para informações mais precisas: http://profile.ameba.jp/fukurounomise/. E enquanto o café está fora das rotas tradicionais do turismo, é fácil de localizá-lo; próximo a saída 10 da estação de metrô Tsukishima, você vai enxergar a fachada do estabelecimento coberta com pôsteres em inglês e japonês explicando o seu sistema. Uma vez com a sua reserva feita, se você tiver tempo, você pode ir para a rua ao lado e se deparar com uma antiga rua de compras com muitos restaurantes monjayaki – é a versão de Tóquio do okonomiyaki, a panqueca de carne, frutos do mar e vegetais que é preparada em uma chapa na mesa dos clientes. O café sugere que os visitantes que falam inglês visitem o estabelecimento nas sextas-feiras, quando eles têm funcionários que também falam a língua. No entanto, eu não tive nenhuma dificuldade indo em um dia diferente. | comida |
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] | Dois eventos gastronômicos marcam as celebrações pelo aniversário de 461 anos de São Paulo, comemorado neste domingo (25). No Theatro Municipal, as barracas do Chefs por Sampa –organizado pelos responsáveis pelo Evento Gastronômico do Bem– tiveram que antecipar a abertura do evento em uma hora; às 10h, ciclistas já se amontoavam na praça Ramos de Azevedo ao final de uma pedalada. Veja as imagens Por volta de meio-dia, a aglomeração aumentou –atravessar a praça podia se revelar uma tarefa complicada, que levava mais de dez minutos– e algumas barracas tinham filas. O maior número de pessoas estava nos pontos de venda de coxinha vegana (a versão do salgado feita com jaca custava R$ 5), de bacalhau, do restaurante Bacalhau do Porto (que vendia bolinhos a R$ 8 e sanduíches com o peixe e camarão a R$ 15), e de paella, feita pela equipe do festival do pescado do Ceagesp (o prato custava R$ 15). "É um evento muito democrático. Quase qualquer pessoa da cidade pode pagar R$ 15 por um bom prato de comida, que é o que temos aqui", disse o chef Benny Novak, que montou uma barraca de seu Ici Bistrô para vender "chicken schnitzel" por R$ 15. A organização do evento, ouvida pela Folha, disse que esperava que 20 mil a 30 mil pessoas passassem pelo evento até seu encerramento, às 20h. Às 17h30, com movimento mais tranquilo, barracas como as dos chefs Carlos Bertolazzi, Raphael Despirite e Benny Novak já tinham encerrado suas atividades; na barraquinha de paletas mexicanas Me Gusta restavam picolés de menos da metade dos sabores oferecidos inicialmente. Em outros pontos, no entanto, as filas continuavam intensas: a espera para provar a coxinha vegana chegava a 30 minutos; às 18h30, na barraca do festival de pescados da Ceagesp, o chef Ivair dava início à preparação do sétimo tacho de paella do dia –e uma fila de ao menos 40 pessoas aguardava o prato ficar pronto. MINHOCÃO Outro local que atraiu bom público na tarde deste domingo foi a Benê Food des Arts –montado geralmente na praça Benedito Calixto, em Pinheiros (zona oeste), o evento ocupou boa parte do Minhocão, também na região central. Com um número maior de participantes –além de comida, havia venda de roupas e antiguidades e barracas da Defensoria Pública e do movimento Ver o Parque, que pede a transformação do viaduto em parque linear–, a atração registrava, por volta de 13h30, filas em diversos pontos. Para aplacar o calor e o sol inclemente, as barracas de sorvete e de cerveja estavam entre as mais lotadas. Rótulos da cervejaria artesanal Madalena eram vendidos a partir de R$ 6 e chopes da Bamberg, a partir de R$ 10. A barraca da sorveteria DaPáVirada, que tinha filas também por permitir provas aos clientes, vendia uma bola por R$ 8. Também tinham boa procura os sanduíches de pernil –à venda na Vivi Express e na Aleatorium (ambos por R$ 20)– e o lanche quadrado de rosbife servido na tortilha, do Cordel Gastronômico (R$ 20). Às 16h, já com algumas sombras começando a refrescar o Minhocão, barracas como a da cervejaria Madalena, uma de chopes artesanais e o food truck Eat Street Food já não atendiam mais os clientes. | comida |
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] | A rede americana KFC (Kentucky Fried Chicken) deixou de servir batatas fritas aos seus clientes no Japão devido à greve portuária nos Estados Unidos e ao bloqueio que obrigou o McDonald's a racionar as porções em dezembro. "A prolongação do conflito dos estivadores na costa oeste dificulta o fornecimento de batatas", explicou na quinta-feira um comunicado da empresa, que suspendeu a venda de batatas fritas. A filial japonesa do McDonald's, que tem 3.100 restaurantes no arquipélago, precisou restringir em dezembro as batatas fritas. A situação se normalizou com o fornecimento urgente de milhares de toneladas de batatas por avião e barco a partir de outros países. | comida |
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] | Na Bélgica, as sour beers, ou cervejas azedas, são uma tradição, muitas vezes resultado de fermentação espontânea. Elas também estão na moda em outros países da Europa, como a Dinamarca. Nos Estados Unidos, elas viraram um dos tipos mais cultuados dos últimos anos, por meio de variações como sour ales ou fruit beers. Livros tratam exclusivamente do tema, como o "American Sour Beers", publicado no segundo semestre do ano passado pela Brewers Association, a associação dos cervejeiros artesanais de lá. No Brasil, elas começaram a chamar a atenção com o lançamento, em 2011, da mineira Falke Vivre Pour Vivre, que leva suco de jabuticaba. Foi o ano de 2014, porém, que marcou a entrada do país de vez nesse universo. No ano passado, foi lançado o trio Sour Me Not, da cervejaria Way, do Paraná, feito com adição de frutas (morango, acerola e graviola). Para este ano, a marca promete uma versão com a fruta uvaia. Esta e outras sour beers são caracterizadas pelo azedinho, pela acidez marcante e por terem muito frescor. Algumas podem ter até sabor de vinagre balsâmico. Em dezembro, a Wäls, de Belo Horizonte (MG), lançou a Wild Ale EAP, uma edição com apenas mil garrafas de uma cerveja que demorou quatro anos para ficar pronta. Amadurecida em barricas de carvalho, com longa fermentação, ela usa leveduras naturais misturadas a fermento belga, e é classificada como "selvagem". Outra novidade está a caminho: a Invicta, de Ribeirão Preto (SP), anunciou a produção de sour beer com cajá, que ficará pronta em março. Especialistas reconhecem que, por levarem mais tempo para ficar prontas e pelo resultado ser praticamente imprevisível, sua produção é muito mais difícil. "Comecei a gostar da sour, a entendê-la, e passei a ver a dificuldade que é fazê-la", conta o cervejeiro Alessandro Oliveira, da Way Beer, que gastou quase um ano para lançar a linha Sour Me Not. "Fiz testes com mais de 40 frutas e essas três, morango, acerola e graviola, foram as de que mais gostei. Tem muito brasileiro que nunca provou acerola ou graviola. Então, recomendo que se prove primeiro a de morango, para perceber o que vem da fruta e o que vem da cerveja." Ele reconhece, no entanto, que esse é um mundo ainda novo por aqui. "Tem gente que manda e-mail para nós dizendo que comprou cerveja estragada, azeda", diz, em referência ao sabor de vinagre que a bebida pode ter. Além das novidades nacionais, importadoras também estão trazendo rótulos de fora, como a Mikkeller Spontanrosehip, uma fruit lambic belga lançada em 2013. Na Bélgica, a principal referência é a Brasserie Cantillon Brouwerij, cervejaria que faz variações com frutas e outras versões maturadas em barricas de vinho. SAIBA MAIS Em tese, toda lambic é uma sour beer, por causa do processo de fermentação, que inclui leveduras naturais e bactérias. Mas a lambic é um estilo feito com exclusividade na Bélgica -é quase como não poder chamar um espumante brasileiro de champanhe. Por serem tão específicas, viraram uma categoria à parte. | comida |
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] | Um estampa caveiras nas embalagens descartáveis. O outro faz comida "com foco na potência do amor". O importante é que dois novos endereços em Pinheiros, zona oeste, servem comida gostosa a preços justos. Em outubro, o chef boliviano Checho Gonzales abriu a Comedoria Gonzales, um box no Mercado Municipal de Pinheiros. Lá, o pedido deve ser feito antes, no caixa. Há 12 lugares em um charmoso balcão para provar ceviches de peixe (R$ 15) ou de frutos do mar (R$ 18) em quatro diferentes marinadas: de manga, açaí, tomate ou leite de amêndoas. Se a fome for muita –e o ceviche não for suficiente–, as costelinhas, as coxas de frango ou os galetos (R$ 15, cada um) resolvem o problema. Eles podem vir com batata bolinha ao alho, batata-inglesa com alecrim, batata-doce com tomilho-limão ou milho-verde cozido com erva-doce (nada na Comedoria é frito). O Vila das Rosas foi aberto há pouco mais de um mês e serve comida vegetariana em um agradável jardim. Há duas opções diárias de pratos no almoço, sendo o falafel sempre uma delas. A receita egípcia de Marie Attia leva, além do grão- de-bico, batata. Os leves bolinhos vêm no prato com hommus, babaganoush, tabule e salada de folhas (R$ 26) –podem ser servidos também no pão árabe ou como hambúrguer. O prato do dia pode ser quibe de abóbora recheado com coalhada, arroz com tâmaras, abobrinha ao curry e salada à parte. Para refrescar, tome um chá gelado (R$ 5). As opções variam (se possível, peça o de maracujá com hortelã). COMEDORIA GONZALES ENDEREÇO r. Pedro Cristi, 89, box 85; tel. (11) 3813-8719 HORÁRIO de seg. a sáb., das 8h às 18h OUTRA SUGESTÃO sanduíche de chola, com presunto e vinagrete de repolho (R$ 12) e salteñas de carne ou frango (R$ 8) VILA DAS ROSAS ENDEREÇO r. Jorge Rizzo, 146; tel. (11) 3814-2920 HORÁRIO de seg. a sex., das 11h30 as 15h OUTRA SUGESTÃO lasanha de brócolis com queijo e molho de tomate (R$ 20) | comida |
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] | Confira abaixo algumas amostras de cervejas que podem ser encontradas no Brasil. MIKKELLER SPONTANROSEHIP 2013 Feita na Bélgica, é fruit lambic com 7,7% de álcool e rosa-mosqueta, o que lhe dá aromas e sabores florais e de frutas vermelhas. É ácida e seca, indicada para sobremesas QUANTO R$ 70,50 ONDE Have a Nice Beer (haveanicebeer.com.br ) WAY SOUR ME NOT ACEROLA Com apenas 3,5% de álcool, é leve e refrescante. O sabor ácido é acentuado pela presença da acerola, facilmente perceptível no paladar, que é seco, cítrico e azedinho QUANTO R$ 12,90 ONDE Clube do Malte (clubedomalte.com.br ) KRIEK BOONA adição de cerejas dá cor avermelhada e sabor de frutas vermelhas. Lambic clássica que tem paladar instigante; ideal para sobremesas, como cheesecake de frutas vermelhas QUANTO R$ 36,50 ONDE Have a Nice Beer (haveanicebeer.com.br ) CANTILLON GRAND CRU BRUOCSELLA Passa três anos em barricas de carvalho. Tem acidez equilibrada, com aroma de maçã. De fermentação espontânea, realça pratos com frutos do mar QUANTO R$ 183 ONDE Empório Alto dos Pinheiros (tel. 11/3031-4328) * FAMÍLIA DE CERVEJAS ALE Tem a maior variedade de estilos. Todas são cervejas de alta fermentação: durante o processo de fabricação, as leveduras trabalham na superfície do mosto, a temperaturas acima dos 15ºC. Isso deixa a bebida mais encorpada e confere maior complexidade de sabor Estilos populares: IPA (india pale ale), tripel, stout, red ale, saison, weissbier (de trigo) LAGER Descobertas depois das ales, as lagers acabaram se tornando as mais produzidas e mais consumidas no mundo. São cervejas de baixa fermentação: as leveduras atuam em temperaturas menores (até 12ºC) e na parte de baixo do mosto. Os estilos, de teor alcoólico mais baixo, geralmente têm sabores mais simples Estilos populares: pilsen, american lager, helles, malzbier, bock, vienna, dunkel SOUR / LAMBIC Categoria ampla, que envolve diversos estilos com processos particulares de fermentação, de forma espontânea ou com a adição de leveduras e bactérias como Lactobacillus e Brettanomyces; podem receber frutas e maturar em tanques de madeira. As lambics são feitas exclusivamente na Bélgica. Têm acidez elevada Estilos populares: geuze, faro, fruit beers * GLOSSÁRIO MOSTO A mistura do malte tostado e moído com água quente resulta no mosto; fervido, ele recebe lúpulo (que dá amargor à bebida) no processo de brassagem; depois é fermentado LEVEDURAS São fungos que, adicionados ao mosto, consomem o açúcar do malte e produzem álcool FERMENTAÇÃO Etapa da fabricação em que leveduras transformam o açúcar do malte da cevada (ou do trigo) em álcool; depois, a cerveja é maturada e engarrafada (algumas são filtradas) | comida |
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] | Por suas características, a sour beer tornou-se objeto de desejo dos cervejeiros mais experimentados. Ela também tem potencial de aproximar os apreciadores de vinho desse universo que anda em alta em todo o mundo. "Beber sour é um estágio avançado do consumidor de cerveja. Tem de ter conhecimento. São tipos com uma acidez muitas vezes agressiva, que se bebem no final das degustações", define o dinamarquês Mikkel Borg Bjergsø, que garante fazer hoje cerca de 600 rótulos da sua marca Mikkeller (grande parte deles nos estilos sour ale e lambic) e acabou se tornando referência no assunto. Segundo ele, as cervejas azedas, em geral, combinam com peixes e mariscos e com pratos gordurosos; já as que levam fruta ficam ótimas com sobremesas de chocolate. Apesar de vaticinar que elas "jamais" vão ser tão populares quanto a IPA (india pale ale), por exemplo, ele vê um novo modismo por aí. "Com certeza a sour beer é uma tendência mundial, que começou há uns sete anos, quando se iniciaram os estudos sobre fermentações com bactérias e leveduras naturais. É o estilo da moda e vai ficar por um bom tempo", completa o cervejeiro cigano, como se diz no mercado, pelo fato de ele produzir rótulos em parceria com fábricas de diferentes países. Responsável pela seleção de rótulos da importadora e clube de cervejas Have a Nice Beer, Diego Cartier também enxerga espaço para elas, mas acredita que sejam produtos de nicho. "Se pensarmos no mercado como um todo, talvez nunca seja uma tendência. Mas elas são tendência, sim, entre os 'beer geeks' e os apreciadores de vinhos naturais." O caminho para chegar à sour, diz Alessandro Oliveira, da Way Beer, pode ser gradual. "A pessoa começa nas cervejas artesanais, se interessa pelas de trigo, pelas com mais lúpulo, vai gostando de maltes mais tostados ou caramelados, e depois disso tudo chega às sours." Mas a "família" sour não é facilmente definível, por englobar muitos estilos. "Hoje em dia, ainda não está muito claro, em termos técnicos, o que é sour. Mas especialistas estão criando uma unidade de medida, por meio do pH, para defini-la. Tem que ter um pH abaixo de 4, pelo menos", explica Alessandro. Quanto menor o pH mais ácida é a cerveja –uma stout como a Guinness, por exemplo, tem pH em torno de 5,3. | comida |
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] | No restaurante "Signs", localizado em Toronto, Canadá, todos os garçons são surdos. O objetivo da iniciativa é promover a linguagem de sinais americana e criar oportunidades de emprego para a comunidade surda local. Para fazer o pedido, os clientes devem usar a linguagem de sinais, seguindo as orientações do menu do restaurante. Para cada prato ou bebida no cardápio, há um passo-a-passo ao lado ensinando como dizê-lo ao garçom em linguagem de sinais. As mesas ainda possuem um pequeno manual com instruções sobre como dizer números e letras do alfabeto. Aberto no final de 2014, o restaurante recebeu mais de 200 currículos de candidatos às 50 vagas disponíveis. A maioria dos contratados não possuía nenhum tipo de experiência anterior no ramo. O cardápio do "Signs" é variado, oferecendo sopas, saladas, sanduíches e massas com preços que variam de US$ 5 (R$ 15) a US$ 28 (R$ 84). O restaurante também oferece opções vegetarianas, veganas, sem glúten e sem lactose. | comida |
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] | A programação pelo aniversário de 461 anos de São Paulo levará uma série de eventos gastronômicos para a rua. No domingo (25), das 11h às 20h, ocorre o "Chefs por Sampa" em frente ao Theatro Municipal. Chefs como Carlos Bertolazzi, Raphael Despirite e Benny Novak servirão pratos que variam de R$ 5 a R$ 15 reais. A entrada é gratuita e os preços populares são um presente para a cidade mais gastronômica do mundo. No mesmo dia, no Minhocão, ocorre a feira gastronômica Benê Food des Arts, como parte da intervenção coletiva "Ver o Parque". Das 12h às 22h, expositores como Candy Crush Ice, Furikake Japanese Daily Food, EAT Street Food, Original Brownie Brasil e Taps Beer Truck venderão pratos com valor que varia de R$ 5 a R$ 25. A entrada é gratuita. Também no domingo abre a exposição "Alimentário - Arte e Construção do Patrimônio Brasileiro", a partir das 14h, na OCA, no Ibirapuera. A mostra traz 150 peças entre fotos, obras de arte e documentos históricos ligados à gastronomia. Vai até 29 de março com entrada gratuita. Restaurantes também têm programação especial. Já nesta quarta (21), a partir das 20h, o Bar da Dona Onça vai receber a cozinheira libanesa Aila, antiga dona do restaurante Habib Ali –que mudou o nome para Rosa do Líbano. Do lado de fora do bar, uma barraca vai servir esfihas grandes de queijo, escarola e carne, feitas na hora por ela, por R$ 18 (cada uma). Além das esfihas, tem o prato misto com falafel, babaganuche, homus e tabule por R$ 24. A partir das 22h30 haverá uma apresentação de dançarinos em homenagem à imigração libanesa na cidade. OUTRAS CASAS No Les 3 Brasseurs, no Itaim Bibi, quem pedir o virado à paulista (R$ 55) no almoço de domingo irá ganhar sua caricatura feita na hora em uma caneca de 500 ml que poderá levar para casa como presente. Já as unidades do Il Barista-Café Especiais dos shoppings Morumbi e Vila Olímpia vão dar como cortesia aos clientes, apenas no domingo, uma dose da caipirinha de café que leva grapa, açúcar mascavo e cubos de gelo de café. O Octavio Café criou dois drinques com as cores da bandeira de São Paulo, que serão servidos no sábado e no domingo: a caipirinha de lichia, mirtilo e morango (R$ 17) e o coquetel Paulistana, com redução de frutas vermelhas, expresso e leite (R$ 15). E o restaurante Aguzzo criou a lasanha paulistana, feita com picadinho de carne. O prato será vendido no fim de semana dos dias 24 e 25 por R$ 63 no restaurante, e R$ 52 (o kg) no pastifício. Outra criação em homenagem à cidade vem da pizzaria Jardim Ô Fiô, que servirá no jantar do domingo a pizza "estufada à Pauliceia", com recheio de mortadela moída, mozarela e Catupiry (R$ 85). | comida |
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] | A chocolateria Cau promove, a partir desta terça-feira (20), três dias de harmonização de doces com cervejas da Burgman, marca artesanal de Sorocaba (SP). A chef-pâtissier da Cau, Luciana Lobo, criou verrines (doces servidos em copo) que misturam chocolate com as cervejas Cosmonauta, do tipo brown ale, e Red Ale. Além de servir as receitas, o evento vai propor a harmonização de três versões de chocolate da marca –bombom, telha e bouche– com os rótulos Ipa Hop, Red Ale e Stout. No dia 20, o mestre-cervejeiro da Burgman, Alexandre Sigolo, fará um bate-papo sobre a combinação de chocolate e cerveja. Cau Chocolates: r. Peixoto Gomide, 1.740; tel. (11) 3081-9820; das 12h às 19h | comida |