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sequence | sentence
stringlengths 301
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] | Em uma, duas, três visitas, fica claro que Erick Jacquin não está com os pés fincados na cozinha do novo Le Bife. Nem sequer parece que quem assina o menu da casa é o indefectível Jacquin, que tanto encantou com técnica, criatividade e precisão em sua extinta brasserie e hoje vive a ditar regras da boa cozinha no "MasterChef". Até é possível identificar especialidades do chef no cardápio, com carnes à la carte e rodízio de guarnições à vontade. Caso do steak tartare (R$ 49), com leve adocicado, mas de pedaços tão miúdos que perde a consistência característica da carne, e do petit gâteau de chocolate amargo cujo recheio escorrega deliciosamente (R$ 18). Mas a cozinha falha em pontos básicos. Os dois únicos cortes de carne oferecidos, filé-mignon (R$ 62) e entrecôte (R$ 69), chegam à mesa sedutores, mas decepcionam. Em mais de uma visita, foram servidos mornos e fora do ponto pedido. Em uma ocasião, por exemplo, o mignon estava acinzentado, quase sem sumo; noutra, mostrou miolo totalmente cru (nada que se aproxime do ponto malpassado, no qual a carne está suculenta). Tampouco fica claro, portanto, que quem está no comando diário da operação é o experiente chef Luiz Emanuel (ex-Allez Allez). O hambúrguer (R$ 39), da maneira como é apresentado no cardápio, dá a impressão de ser envolvido em pão de batata, mas é servido no prato, com meio pão ao lado e fritas –estas, murchas e cruas por dentro (erro recorrente). Perde ainda na textura (sem liga, desmilingue-se ao toque da faca) e no sabor (a cebola rouba a cena). Curioso: o menu, didático e enxuto, contrasta com a carta de vinhos, alongada, mas só com duas opções de tinto em taça –ambos sem "punch" para equilibrar com as carnes. Como disse Jacquin em certo episódio desta temporada do "MasterChef", "não é muito péssimo, mas é péssimo". * Após a publicação desta crítica, o chef Erick Jacquin publicou um vídeo em seu perfil no Facebook dizendo que resolverá o problema. Le Bife QUANDO: SEG., 12H ÀS 15H; TER. A QUI., 12H ÀS 15H E 19H ÀS 23H; SEX., 12H ÀS 15H E 19H ÀS 0H30; SÁB., 12H ÀS 16H E 19H À 0H30, DOM., 12H ÀS 16H ONDE: R. PEDROSO ALVARENGA, 1.088, ITAIM BIBI; TEL. (11) 4324-0783 | comida |
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] | O Império Romano chegou a contar com mais de 50 milhões de habitantes e, para sua alimentação, foi essencial o incentivo a uma política de expansão agrícola que constituiu a considerada primeira globalização do consumo da história. O museu "dell'Ara Pacis" da capital italiana recebe até o dia 15 de novembro a mostra "Nutrir o Império. Histórias da alimentação em Roma e Pompéia", um percurso composto por raridades arqueológicas e que conta com uma ampla variedade de recursos multimídia. Tudo para dar resposta a questões como: o que comiam os antigos romanos? Quais eram seus costumes gastronômicos? Como transportavam suas provisões de outras regiões ou as conservavam até sua chegada à então 'capital do mundo'? No período imperial que separou Augusto e Constantino (27 a.C - 337 d.C), Roma se transformou em uma metrópole de cerca de 1 milhão de habitantes, um número que nenhuma outra cidade voltaria a alcançar até quase dois milênios depois, na Revolução Industrial. Assim, Roma exercia a função de centro nervoso de um império de mais de 50 milhões de pessoas e cuja economia estava baseada na agricultura, explicou à Agência Efe uma das curadoras da exposição, Orietta Rossini. Ao término da Guerra Civil romana, Augusto, o primeiro imperador, impôs um período de pacificação conhecido como a "Pax Augusti" –lembrado no próprio Ara Pacis0– entre todos os estados do Império, que se estendia ao redor do "Mare Nostrum" ("Nosso Mar"), ou seja, o Mediterrâneo. Um espaço geográfico que foi palco para a "primeira globalização do consumo" e que representou a chegada a Roma de múltiplos e inovadores produtos, como utensílios para cozinhar alimentos, além de fornos e vasilhas para armazenar cereais e outros bens. "Em Roma não se comia o pão produzido no campo romano, e nem se consumia o azeite das oliveiras romanas, mas se comia o pão feito com cereais africanos importados por mar e se consumia azeite feito na Espanha e também na África", disse Rossini. Por isso, ressaltou Rossini, "tudo isso antecipou uma globalização do consumo alimentício", que começou com produtos como o vinho e o azeite de oliva, transportados de diferentes lugares em vasilhas que também podem ser vistas na mostra. Os romanos bebiam vinho da Gália, consumiam azeite da atual Andaluzia, se deleitavam com o mel grego e comiam o "garum", um cobiçado molho de peixe fermentado proveniente da África, do Oriente Médio e de Portugal. Mas no centro da gastronomia romana estava o pão, feito à base de grãos que chegavam do recém-conquistado Egito e do qual há exemplares nesta exposição, como três fogaças calcinadas achadas em Herculano, sepultada junto a Pompeia e outras cidades pela erupção do Vesúvio em 79 d.C. A mostra explica que todos os produtos trazidos nas embarcações desde o outro lado do mar eram recursos necessários para a sobrevivência da população e eram vendidos em seus mercados, pontos econômicos que supunham "um privilégio e um sinal de status para a cidade". "Era possível imaginar quais eram os problemas para transportar os alimentos e alimentar tantas pessoas em um momento no qual as comunicações eram claramente mais lentas do que são hoje, mas muito mais organizadas", afirmou Rossini. Um exemplo desta incessante atividade empresarial é a existência, ainda hoje, de um depósito de vasilhas pulverizadas que se amontoam no bairro romano de Testaccio, porto fluvial do Tibre. A mostra repassa "como foi organizado todo o abastecimento de uma grande metrópole como Roma –"a maior metrópole, a dominante", acrescentou a curadora. A Itália já recebe a Exposição Universal, em Milão, focada na agricultura e com o lema "Alimentar o planeta. Energia para a vida" e a exposição romana "também se aprofunda nos temas que a Expo desenvolve", comentou Rossini. "Eles falam da alimentação do planeta, e nós de como foi resolvido o problema de nutrir o império em uma organização política na qual tudo era controlado", disse a curadora. | comida |
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] | O "salame Piemonte" conquistou o certificado de Indicação Geográfica Protegida (IGP) em nível europeu e agora será protegido de imitações e falsificações, informou a União Europeia nesta sexta-feira (17). Com o selo, o produto típico ganha status de uma das iguarias mais importantes para a gastronomia italiana e entra em uma lista de mais de 100 itens. Entre os protegidos da legislação estão, por exemplo, o aceto balsâmico de Módena, o Chianti clássico e os queijos grana padano e gorgonzola. A receita tradicional do salame é caracterizada pela presença de vinho tinto piemontês, com denominação de origem e produzido, exclusivamente, com as variedades de uvas nebbiolo, barbera e dolcetto. O vinho reflete no sabor e no aroma do embutido, e sempre o distinguiu de produtos similares no mercado. O salame Piemonte tem textura suave e sabor levemente adocicado, resultado do curto período de maturação. | comida |
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] | Uma editora de comida experiente teve, há quatro anos, uma ideia que pensou poder prender a atenção de Michelle Obama, a "nutricionista da nação", que tem gastado boa parte de seu período como primeira-dama tentando encorajar as crianças americanas a comer alimentos mais saudáveis. Que tal um concurso de receitas saudáveis para os estudantes, com o vencedor ganhando um "jantar oficial" com alguns de seus pratos? A ideia veio de Tanya Steel, executiva-chefe da Cooking Up Big Dreams, uma empresa que cria vídeos e programas de TV culinários. "O Desafio da Hora do Almoço Saudável" ("The Healthy Lunchtime Challenge", em inglês) pegou, e o resultado reflete uma mudança nas tendências de alimentação, que se espalhou pelos Estados Unidos. Estão dentro: quinoa, grão-de-bico, sabores indianos e japoneses, couve-de-bruxelas, brócolis e couve-flor. Ficaram de fora: iogurte grego, alimentos embalados e carne vermelha. Peru foi a proteína magra escolhida. Alimentos sem glúten estão em alta. Couve-de-folhas? Ela não vai embora. Na sexta-feira passada (10), vencedores de cada estado, de Washington DC e dos quatro territórios dos EUA, se encontraram com Barack Obama e outras autoridades para almoçar na Casa Branca e visitar a sua horta. Os ganhadores foram escolhidos entre quase mil crianças entre 8 e 12 anos, desafiadas a criar deliciosas receitas originais, com preço acessível e que estivessem dentro dos critérios nutricionais estabelecidos pelo Departamento de Agricultura dos Estados Unidos. O departamento foi um dos jurados que avaliaram os pratos finalistas no último mês, em Washington. "Para alguns de vocês, cozinhar é uma maneira de se ligar às suas famílias e reviver memórias felizes", disse Obama no almoço, onde tomates-cereja e couves-de-bruxelas foram os ingredientes principais na mesa das crianças. Assim como escritores culinários, muitas crianças procuraram nas experiências familiares a apresentação de suas receitas, comentando sua herança étnica e as horas que passaram na cozinha com seus pais, avós, tias e tios. Gracie Giles, 9, de Guam, veio com um "Y'obama Yakissoba", um prato de macarrão japonês inspirado no pai, que nasceu no Japão. Problemas de saúde das crianças e das famílias também tiveram destaque. Abigail Horne, 8, de Indiana, criou o "Little Man Lunch", substituindo pão por banana-da-terra, "porque meu irmão menor tem alergia a trigo", escreveu. Outras crianças estavam preocupadas com a diabetes ou com a luta dos pais contra outros problemas de saúde. Assim surgiu o "Caribbean Delight", uma mistura de frutas tropicais e queijo no pão sírio, feito por Bobby Sena, 12, da Flórida, para a mãe, que tem colesterol alto. "Ele fez isso como presente de Dia das Mães para mim", disse Marybelle Doe sobre o filho, que tem futebol americano e jardinagem como hobbies, mas cozinha pouco. "Ele não cozinha nada muito elaborado. Ele fez uma salada de rúcula", afirmou. Pelas regras, ela não podia ser envolver no desenvolvimento das receitas. "A única coisa que eu fiz foi provar." | comida |
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] | O dente de alho passa pelo fundo da panela, só para deixar um pouco de sabor e aroma. Em seguida, vêm um pouco de vinho e uma mescla de queijos amarelos. Um toque de kirsch (destilado de cereja) e de noz-moscada finalizam o preparo. A receita, servida em um réchaud, pode ajudar a dar conforto em noites de baixas temperaturas. Nas prateleiras dos supermercados desde o começo do inverno, as misturas prontas de fondue são soluções práticas para a receita suíça, descrita acima. Para ajudar na escolha, a Folha organizou um teste às cegas com as marcas mais vendidas nas grande redes de São Paulo. Participaram do teste Cristina Häfeli, do Florina (restaurante da capital paulista especializado na receita), Fernando de Oliveira, d'A Queijaria, e a repórter de "Comida", Magê Flores. A lista de marcas participantes foi elaborada a partir de rankings de venda revelados por três redes: Pão de Açúcar, St. Marchè e Walmart –o Carrefour não quis participar. "De maneira geral, estamos bem servidos", conclui Oliveira. "Se a receita erra no sabor, acerta na textura. Se erra na cor, acerta no aroma. Todas têm pontos positivos." "Elas são bem feitas, muitas têm boa textura. Mas na maioria falta um sabor marcante. Por isso, receberiam bem um pouco de vinho ou noz-moscada", diz Häfeli. É bom dar atenção também ao pão, que deve ser firme e saboroso, e à bebida. "O vinho branco dá leveza à refeição", diz Häfeli. | comida |
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] | Para comemorar a independência da Colômbia, no próximo dia 20, o Suri Ceviche Bar realiza um festival com os pratos típicos do país —o evento começa nesta quinta-feira (16) e vai até o dia 25. O menu traz receitas como as batatas criollas e as tradicionais sopas, entre elas a Casuela de Mariscos do Pacífico (R$ 36), que leva camarão, lula, peixe com leite de coco e patacones. Os dois pratos equivalem a entradas. Outro atrativo são os pratos principais, chamados de secos, como a Gallina Criolla (R$ 75), que leva cozido de galinha caipira, banana da terra, mandioca e batatas criollas com arroz aji e abacate. Como petisco, o festival sugere o Juan Valérios (R$ 26) —bolinhos de banana da terra grelhada e recheada com torresmos. O Ceviche Cartagenero (R$ 30) é um dos principais pratos para os amantes da culinária colombiana. A receita leva camarão, molho de tomate, maionese, laranja, conhaque, cebola roxa, pimenta e coentro, e já é uma velha conhecida entre os que apreciam a gastronomia do país. Para a sobremesa, a indicação é o Biscocho Melado (R$ 13), com biscoitos de queijos em calda de rapadura com canela e sorvete de creme. Para o chef Dagoberto Torres, nascido na Colômbia, a data da independência reúne amigos e familiares em volta da mesa para cozinhar pratos típicos e jogar conversa fora. "Queremos que as pessoas vivam a experiência de comer em um restaurante colombiano", afirma o chef. Suri Cheviche Bar Onde Rua Matheus Grou, 488 - Pinheiros - São Paulo Quando 16/7 até 25/7 Horário de atendimento De segunda a quinta, das 19 à 0h; sexta, das 20h à 1h; Sábado, das 13h às 17h e das 20h à 1h; domingo, das 13 às 17h. | comida |
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] | A Duff Beer, cerveja preferida de Homer Simpson, é quase mascote na série de animação adulta. Durante décadas, produtores de cerveja australianos e alemães têm tentado capitalizar isso, produzindo rótulos e colocando versões da Duff Beer no mercado (temporariamente) –os exemplares eram proibidos depois das reclamações de advogados do grupo de comunicação "21st Century Fox". Mas, na sexta-feira (10), a gigante da comunicação anunciou sua entrada neste mercado, informou o "The Wall Street Journal". "Acredito que há potencial para que a Duff esteja em todos os lugares do mundo", disse Jeffrey Godsick, presidente da divisão de produtos da Fox. O rótulo não terá referências à série Os Simpsons: imitará fielmente as embalagens que aparecem na série. A marca será lançada no Chile. Isso porque já existe um grande mercado de cópias não autorizadas de Duff Beer. A cerveja será uma "premium lager", dourada, com aromas de frutas e um pouco de caramelo. | comida |
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] | O Japão criará um selo para seus produtos gastronômicos em 2016 inspirado no sistema usado pela Fundação Dieta Mediterrânea para ressaltar a procedência e qualidade das matérias-primas e sua preparação, informou nesta semana o jornal "Nikkei". Desde que a Unesco reconheceu, em dezembro de 2013, a culinária tradicional japonesa, chamada "washoku", como patrimônio cultural imaterial, o Ministério da Agricultura, Silvicultura e Pesca japonês mostrou uma preocupação cada vez maior para proteger a imagem da marca dos alimentos e receitas japonesas, e para potencializar sua exportação. Diante do aumento da popularidade da gastronomia do país no exterior, as autoridades detectaram um aumento no número de produtos "falsificados" que são vendidos como japoneses fora do país, alguns dos quais imitam até os desenhos da embalagem. O novo sistema de certidão que o governo prepara servirá para catalogar produtos alimentícios, que vão da carne bovina de exemplares da raça "wagyu" até o molho de soja e a pasta de missô, vendidos em supermercados e outras lojas no exterior. O Ministério da Agricultura mostrou um grande interesse pelo sistema operado pela Fundação Dieta Mediterrânea, com sede em Barcelona, para proteger e divulgar esta cultura gastronômica que também é patrimônio cultural imaterial. | comida |
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] | Um saco plástico contorcido pelo vácuo acomoda o boeuf bourguignon de caldo espesso; em outro, a ausência de ar revela a textura do purê de batata. Dez minutos em banho-maria bastam para revelar sabores e perfumes, tudo sem sujar panelas. A praticidade é possibilitada pelo sous-vide, técnica que embala alimentos a vácuo. Usada em restaurantes, ela agora ganha espaço nas prateleiras dos mercados. A comida ou os ingredientes são vendidos em um saco plástico que deve ser colocado depois em água quente. O termo, em francês, significa "sob vácuo" e tem origem na indústria francesa da década de 1970 –os primeiros testes foram feitos com charcutaria, para fazer presuntos cozidos. Segundo chefs, quando o objetivo é o consumo imediato, tirar o ar do entorno do alimento antes de cozinhá-lo pode ressaltar características e facilitar o preparo. "No cozimento a vácuo não há contato com agentes externos, não há dissolução na água nem evaporação. Por isso, os aromas são mais preservados", diz Marco Renzetti, chef da Osteria del Pettirosso. "Vegetais como alho-poró, cenoura e beterraba ganham sabor mais acentuado se cozidos em sous-vide." O mais comum, porém, é que a cocção a vácuo, geralmente feita em baixas temperaturas e por longos períodos, seja empregada em carnes. "Em cortes duros ou muito gordurosos, ela gera uma lenta dissolução do colágeno entremeado na fibra, o que amacia a carne", explica Lucas Medina, professor de gastronomia do Senac. Mas seu uso não é indicado com proteínas de cozimento rápido e ingredientes que precisem de muita hidratação no cozimento (como feijão, macarrão e arroz). "No Brasil, muita gente acha que o sous-vide sempre envolve a cocção", afirma Alain Poletto. O chef diz isso porque um ingrediente pode ser embalado ainda cru e cozido no calor da água ou ir para o saquinho depois de preparado -assim, não ocupa tanto espaço e tem menor risco de contaminação. Poletto aplica a técnica das duas maneiras nos restaurantes Bistrot de Paris e Meating e no empório Sabores da França. PRÁTICO Para quem costuma comprar comida congelada, optar pelos alimentos vendidos nos saquinhos a vácuo pode ser vantajoso. "O sabor, a textura e o aroma lembram o da comida fresca", diz Maria Regina César, que comanda a Da Má da Lê ao lado da irmã, Lelena. Fundada em 2013, a marca funciona como loja e restaurante na Vila Madalena e vende on-line e em mercados como os das redes Pão de Açúcar e St Marchè (nas lojas, o combinado de costela, molho barbecue e purê custa, em média, R$ 31,90). Outra que ganhou ponto de venda próprio em junho foi a Você Chef, cuja loja em Moema abriu em 15 de junho. Também é possível utilizar o método em casa, com máquinas que controlam a temperatura da água. ONDE COMPRAR Da Má da Lê O QUÊ entre as 90 sugestões da casa, estão a costelinha suína cozida no vácuo por 12 horas em marinada de ervas (R$ 19) e a coxa e sobrecoxa de frango cozidas no vácuo com alecrim e alho (R$ 13,50) ONDE r. Dep. Lacerda Franco, 452, Vila Madalena; tel. (11) 2925-7010 MAIS damadale.com.br Dona Mesa O QUÊ a receita mais pedida é a carne secreta (R$ 13,90, 150 g), um corte de alcatra cozido durante cinco horas a uma temperatura de 80º C ONDE av. Quarto Centenário, 1.532, Vila Nova Conceição; tel. (11) 3845-0251 MAIS donamesa.com.br Sabores da França O QUÊ preparações clássicas da cozinha francesa, a exemplo do magret de pato (R$ 78, para duas pessoas), do boeuf bourguignon (R$ 36) e do gratin de batata (R$ 11) ONDE r. Augusta, 2542, Jardim Paulista; tel. (11) 3063-1675 MAIS saboresdafranca.com Você Chef O QUÊ entre as receitas novas, a costela suína em molho barbecue (R$ 52,90 o quilo) leva, entre a marinada e a cozimento, 72 horas para ficar pronta ONDE al. dos Nhambiquaras, 1.539, Moema; tel. (11) 4305-5556 MAIS vocechefgourmet.com.br Empório BonAp O QUÊ dezoito preparações entre sopas, carnes e acompanhamentos. Lideram os pedidos a fraldinha ao molho de cerveja escura (R$ 39,90, 400 g) e o filé de peito de frango com alho e tomilho (R$ 14 a porção individual) ONDE r. Padre Antônio José dos Santos, 812, Brooklin; tel. (11) 3297-0006 Eat O QUÊ disponíveis apenas no endereço da Vila Olímpia, há 50 produtos em sous-vide; entre as sugestões mais solicitadas, estão o medalhão de salmão (R$ 26) e a fraldinha (R$ 15), ambos em porções individuais com cerca de 200 g ONDE av. Dr. Cardoso de Melo, 1.191, Vila Olímpia; tel. (11) 5643-5353 MAIS emporioeat.com.br | comida |
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] | Morreu nesta segunda-feira (6) o sócio do chef Ferran Adrià no restaurante El Bulli, Juli Soler. Nascido em 1949, em Barcelona, o espanhol sofria de uma doença neurológica degenerativa. Em 2012, Soler teve que deixar a administração da Fundação El Bulli, criada depois do fechamento do restaurante. "Para quem não conheça a pessoa de Juli Soler, queremos explicar que, desde sua chegada em 1981 ao restaurante El Bulli, se tornou uma figura imprescindível naquele que se considera ter sido um dos restaurantes mais influentes da história. Foi ele quem contratou Ferran Adrià. Juntos, passaram por momentos difíceis, revolucionando a experiência do comensal em um restaurante de alta gastronomia e transformaram El Bulli em um espírito que transcendeu o próprio restaurante e se transformou em uma forma de entender essa profissão, inclusive depois de seu fechamento, em 30 de julho de 2011", foi desta forma que a família de Soler anunciou, em uma carta publicada em 2012, que ele estava doente. Segundo o jornal "El País", Adrià afirmou que "está vivendo um momento muito duro". "Juli e eu tínhamos algo como um casamento, 30 anos juntos, 14 horas por dia." "Era alguém generoso e ousado, que incentivou a equipe de cozinha a fazer vanguarda mais do que negócio", disse o chef. Em San Sebantián, chefs reunidos no Centro de Culinária Basca lamentaram a morte de Soler e fizeram um minuto de silêncio em sua homenagem. | comida |
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] | O boteco Alma Esquina, do chef Ivan Achcar, servirá pratos com fígado no almoço e no jantar até o dia 12 de julho. O Festival do Fígado Magro começou nesta quinta-feira (2) e terá quatro sugestões: iscas de fígado de boi ao molho madeira, fígado de boi com compota de cebola, fígado de galhinha à provençal e fígado de bêbado com molho verde flambado na cachaça. Os pratos podem ser pedidos como porções (R$ 30) ou como pê-efe (R$ 25,50). O chef explicou que o evento é uma forma de homenagear uma das iguarias mais importantes da cozinha e que na falta de foie gras (a produção e consumo do fígado gordo de patos e gansos em São Paulo foi proibida ) "vamos comer fígado magro". ALMA ESQUINA Onde r. Cayowáa, 324, Perdizes; tel: 11/2769 5896 Horário de funcionamento dom. e seg. das 12h às 17h; ter. a sab. das 12h à meia-noite | comida |
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] | O papa Francisco quer aproveitar a visita que fará de 10 a 12 de julho ao Paraguai para degustar pratos típicos do país que conhece de perto, especialmente o caldo vori vori e a "sopa paraguaia". O papa pediu para jantar no dia de sua chegada, sexta-feira (10), o robusto caldo vori vori, que é acompanhado de frango e conhecido como um antídoto para o frio, disseram à imprensa fontes da comissão organizadora em Assunção. Trata-se de um dos pratos mais tradicionais da culinária deste país, na fronteira com Argentina, Bolívia e Brasil, bem como a "sopa paraguaia", que é, na verdade, uma massa sólida de milho e queijo, explicou a especialista em cozinha tradicional Naty Alvarez. O papa inicia neste fim de semana seu primeiro giro pela América do Sul para visitar, entre 5 e 12 de julho, Equador, Bolívia e Paraguai. Francisco, como arcebispo de Buenos Aires, costumava visitar as comunidades pobres de Buenos Aires, onde vivem milhares de paraguaios, e foi nesses locais que conheceu e provou a comida tradicional Guarani, indicou em um comunicado à AFP o historiador Jorge Rubiani. Os organizadores querem proporcionar isso ao papa, levando em conta que ele não comer carne às sextas-feiras –o vori vori será servido provavelmente no almoço de domingo. A tradicional carne assada a la parrilla –clássico também em seu país– não faltará em Nunciatura, onde Franciso se hospedará. | comida |
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] | Uma inovadora receita que acrescentou ervilhas ao guacamole, prato tradicional mexicano a base de abacate –e muito popular nos Estados Unidos–, resultou em uma batalha nas redes sociais, que levou o presidente Barack Obama a defender o preparo clássico. Uma colunista da seção de gastronomia do jornal "The New York Times" tuitou na quarta-feira (1o) a sua receita do prato e imediatamente desencadeou uma apaixonada troca nas redes sociais, dominada por pessoas que questionaram o ingrediente estranho. O presidente Obama não demorou em entrar no debate com sua conta no Twitter –que tem mais de 3 milhões de seguidores. "Respeito o 'NYT', mas não estou de acordo com as ervilhas no guacamole", escreveu o presidente, conhecido por seu gosto pela comida mexicana. "Cebola, alho, pimenta. Clássico", afirmou. O ex-governador da Flórida e pré-candidato presidencial republicano Jeb Bush, crítico usual das políticas de Obama, neste caso concordou com o presidente democrata. "Não se adicionam ervilhas ao guacamole", escreveu no Twitter. Bush, casado há mais de 40 anos com uma mexicana, recentemente afirmou em um programa de TV que sabia preparar "muito bem" guacamole. A colunista do "Times", Melissa Clarke, defendeu a receita heterodoxa, ao afirmar que ervilhas "acrescentam doçura intensa e textura crocante ao mix, que torna a tortilha mais substanciosa". "O guacamole de ervilhas mantém sua tonalidade brilhante no congelador por vários dias, sem ficar marrom." "Parem a loucura do guacamole. Fora ervilhas", escreveu no Twitter a organização "Avocados from Mexico", que promove o abacate mexicano nos Estados Unidos. Os EUA consomem quase 80% do abacate que o México exporta (cerca de 700 mil toneladas por ano), de acordo com cifras do governo norte-americano. A receita do guacamole tradicional, que os mexicanos preparam quase diariamente, contém abacate, cebola, tomates, pimenta, um pouco de limão, sal e coentro. Nunca se acrescentam ervilhas. Confira aqui uma receita. | comida |
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] | Parte-se do centro e, para lá da Mooca, para lá do Jardim Avelino, para lá da Vila Alpina, eis que se alcança a Casa do Nordeste São Lucas. O paraibano Geminiano Genuíno do Nascimento, 63, zanza de um lado para o outro do salão arejado, em uma esquina da zona leste para as bandas de São Caetano, a receber clientes do bairro. E ali serve, na companhia de sua mulher, Vera Lucia Nascimento, 52, e de duas ajudantes de cozinha, pratos regionais de sua terra. A história da casa -a do jovem nordestino que pega carona em um caminhão de carga de pinha e salta no Parque São Lucas sem lenço e sem documento, dirige táxis, vende bananas na feira e trabalha como garçom, até abrir o próprio boteco -entusiasma mais que a comida. No contexto, porém, a comida também é uma alegria -e baratíssima (os pratos geralmente custam R$ 18 e são servidos sem economia). Mais de 200 rótulos de cachaça podem acompanhar, por exemplo, fava em caldo perfumado, com linguiça, costelinha de porco e carne-seca. Cozida em demasia, perdeu a firmeza e desmanchou na boca, como um feijão que fica por tempo alongado na panela de pressão. O feijão-de-corda, sem caldo, é valorizado por carne–seca desfiada e linguiça mais bacon, cebola e alho. De textura firme e sabor delicado, aparece, ainda, no baião-de-dois, com queijo coalho, salsinha e arroz -com gosto da casa da gente. Costela de boi ou de porco, galinha caipira (embebida em saboroso caldo de tomate), carne-seca e mandioca cozida também estão no cardápio. Torresmo (duro, seco e frio) e farofa de farinha de mandioca (crocante e temperada) sempre acompanham. E mais caldinho de mocotó, dobradinha e a "feijoada completa" do Chico Buarque, com direito a pé e rabo. CASA DO NORDESTE SÃO LUCAS QUANDO: DE SEG. A SÁB., DAS 7H ÀS 19H ONDE: R. ENGENHEIRO FRANCISCO BICALHO, 255, PARQUE SÃO LUCAS, TEL. (11) 3794-1878 | comida |
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] | O chef Jefferson Rueda deixa, nesta terça-feira (30), a cozinha do Attimo, em São Paulo. Rueda, que comandou o Attimo por quatro anos, está investindo em seu próprio estabelecimento: a Casa do Porco. O bar especializado em carne suína terá como estrela o porco à San Zé, assado inteiro e lentamente. A receita remete ao porco a paraguaia, que chegou ao país durante a Guerra do Paraguai, e foi parar no interior paulista. Em São José do Rio Pardo, cidade da família Rueda, a receita é tradição em festas. O projeto teve início quando Jefferson Rueda preparou oito porcos na Virada Cultural, no centro da cidade, em 2013. A Casa do Porco ficará no centro da cidade e tem previsão de abertura para o final de agosto. | comida |
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] | Os livros de culinária podem ser divididos em dois tipos. Os práticos, que com o tempo ganham orelhas e marcas de gordura, e os que o mercado editorial chama de "coffee table books". Sua última função é ensinar a cozinhar: cumprem um papel-chave na carreira de chefs autorais, alçando-os ao status de artistas. Suas receitas elaboradas, de técnicas exigentes e ingredientes de difícil obtenção, costumam espantar os mais destemidos autodidatas. Não é o caso do animador digital Allen Hemberger. Em 2006, de passagem por Chicago, Allen decidiu jantar em um restaurante "interessante" que um amigo havia indicado. Naquela altura, só o universo foodie tinha notícia do que hoje é o principal representante da gastronomia molecular no país, o Alinea, comandado pelo chef Grant Achatz. "Minha primeira experiência foi estonteante. Passei um ano ou dois pinçando informações, até que em 2008 o Alinea lançou seu livro de receitas, e minha namorada, Sarah, me deu de Natal. Nenhum de nós sabia no que eu estava me metendo". Cinco anos mais tarde, em abril de 2014, Allen daria cabo da última das 107 receitas do livro, num projeto de proporções olímpicas que consumiu grande parte de seu tempo, dinheiro e vida social. A certa altura, criou um blog, onde passou a compartilhar o passo a passo dos preparos, mas principalmente a revelar a magnitude do universo comestível contido nas minúsculas porções de comida servidas nesse tipo de restaurante. Aprendeu a fotografar comida (mais de 12 mil cliques para o blog), passou muito tempo conversando com agricultores para conseguir cultivar em seu quintal ervas e temperos raros que o livro pedia –e até fez cursos de cerâmica para reproduzir algumas das louças sob medida que amparam as receitas do Alinea. Não é difícil perceber que Allen enxergou no chef Achatz um igual: detalhista, perfeccionista e muito determinado. Pupilo de Thomas Keller, o maior chef e restaurateur do país, Achatz se distanciou da comida de seu mestre para desenvolver uma cozinha essencialmente sensorial e inovadora. Também ficou famoso no meio ao ignorar três indicações médicas para extirpar a língua, tomada por um câncer. No fim, curou-se por meio de um tratamento de quimioterapia experimental muito agressivo, porque enfrentar a morte lhe parecia mais uma escolha do que deixar de ser um chef, na ausência do paladar. "Depois de muito pensar, cheguei à conclusão de que tanto Achatz quanto eu trabalhamos na criação de experiências emocionais. Para mim, são as criações visuais que faço que ajudam a contar uma história. Para ele, é a comida. Nós dois somos artesões de um certo senso de encantamento", compara Allen. Na busca quixotesca pelos ingredientes, a internet foi sua principal aliada. Mas não raro ela o levava a missões como descobrir alguém no Tsukiji, o lendário mercado de peixes de Tóquio, que pudesse incluir em uma encomenda de um restaurante da Califórnia uma caixinha de determinado peixe que só poderia ser encontrado no Japão. Ou convencer um empresa química a vender em quantidades não-industriais o que Achatz e Allen chamam de "magical white powders", substâncias como pectina NH e alginato de propilenglicol, responsáveis por alterar as propriedades físicas de componentes e criar os géis, espumas e esferas que se tornaram símbolo da cozinha molecular. Na reta final do blog, Allen ganhou o apoio de Achatz e seu sócio no restaurante para que divulgassem no Twitter o ato final do projeto: uma campanha no Kickstarter (site de financiamento coletivo) para arrecadar US$ 28 mil (R$ 87 mil) e transformar o blog em livro. Um coffee table book, é claro. Com a empolgação da comunidade foodie, chegou aos US$ 40 mil (R$ 125) e despachou para apoiadores do mundo todo 750 exemplares, numerados e assinados. Não é preciso dizer que Allen encarou a missão com o mesmo afinco. Uma vez ao mês, enviava um e-mail aos apoiadores explicando em minúcia o que aprendia sobre temas do universo editorial como fonte, tratamento de cor e encadernação. Com minha cópia em mãos, não me surpreendeu que "The Alinea Project" superasse o próprio livro do Alinea. Um fã de compilação de dados, Allen entremeia as fotos e textos das receitas com recursos visuais que cobrem uma infinidade de tópicos, desde gráficos que avaliam o comportamento dos usuários do blog até um fluxograma de três páginas com os percursos de Allen para obter ingredientes difíceis. "Categoria: frutos do mar > pode ser encontrado localmente? > Não > ligar para Bethany, na Browne Trading > Encontrou? > Não > É japonês? > Sim > A True World Foods pode fazer com que seja entregue fresco em tempo hábil? > Não > David Barzelay pode ajudar? > Sim > Ligar para David no International Marine Products. Suas 435 páginas compreendem ainda um relato íntimo e honesto desta experiência visceral, que afetou as relações de Allen com família e amigos. Mas, depois de tanto investimento, por que não pular para o lado de lá do balcão? "Amo cozinhar, mas ainda sou um aluno. Comandar um restaurante ou cozinhar para estranhos é intimidante. Mesmo quando preparo coisas simples, só enxergo as falhas. Mas no escritório, quando divago um pouco em pensamento, me pego mais interessado no que cozinhar em seguida do que em animação. Vamos ver o que o futuro revela". Veja vídeo sobre o projeto | comida |
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] | O chef de cozinha francês Alain Ducasse afirmou na sexta-feira (26) que o Brasil está pronto para "entrar na competição internacional" da alta gastronomia e defendeu uma alimentação sustentável com "menos proteínas". Ducasse, que veio ao Rio de Janeiro assistir à cerimônia de entrega de diplomas a 250 alunos do curso de gastronomia promovido pela Universidade Estácio de Sá e pela escola Alain Ducasse, avaliou que o futuro da área se resume a três palavras: diversidade, autenticidade e natural. "Temos 740 alunos em formação hoje e em cinco anos 10% serão atores da gastronomia aqui, no Brasil. Eles ganharam experiência. O Brasil vai entrar na competição internacional", declarou Ducasse, 58 anos, a um grupo de jornalistas no Consulado da França. Também estavam presentes na cerimônia mais de 40 chefs franceses e brasileiros que participaram do evento "Goût de France", realizado no último 19 de março, durante o qual mais de 1.300 jantares foram propostos em restaurantes e embaixadas de 150 países, com o objetivo de celebrar a gastronomia francesa. "A cozinha do século 21 está aberta ao mundo e respeita as diferenças que eu defendo. É a mesma abordagem que nós temos com a universidade", afirmou, ainda, Ducasse, dono de 35 restaurantes em nove países espalhados em quatro continentes, para quem a cozinha representa também "uma fabulosa ascensão social". O famoso chef defendeu que em países como o Brasil, onde a natureza é generosa, a população se alimente primeiramente com produtos locais e "consuma de maneira sustentável, com menos proteínas e, caso venha do mar, que venha da pesca sustentável também". "Há um bilhão de pessoas subnutridas no planeta e há também um bilhão de pessoas super-nutridas, este equilíbrio deveria permitir que todos pudessem comer", ressaltou. Para ele, os países industrializados se alimentam cada vez pior, "mas a tomada de consciência já está aí e quando os Estados Unidos acompanham um movimento, tudo vai mais rápido". O chef francês Laurent Suaudeau, de 57 anos, no Brasil desde os anos 1980, lembrou que o "espírito da reflexão na cozinha francesa nasceu no século 18 com a presença de grandes filósofos e seu humanismo ainda prevalece na nossa culinária". Claude Troisgros, que chegou ao Rio há 35 anos, avaliou que a "cozinha [do país] evoluiu de maneira incrível, valorizando os produtos típicos do Brasil". | comida |
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] | Para onde caminha a gastronomia do Brasil? Esse será um dos temas debatidos no "Cozinhando com Palavras", programação da Flip (Festa Literária Internacional de Paraty) voltada para o mundo da gastronomia. Na conversa, os chefs André Boccato e Morena Leite e o antropólogo Raul Lody debaterão sobre os rumos da cozinha nacional. O evento, em que são debatidos temas gastronômicos, aconteceu pela primeira vez na feira literária em 2014 e tem o intuito de fazer uma reflexão sobre a fatia do mercado editorial dedicado à área. Entre os destaques desta edição, há o lançamento do livro "A Virtude da Gula" (Senac; R$ 69,90), de Raul Lody (veja a programação completa abaixo). Na obra, o autor parte de um dos sete pecados capitais para tratar de pratos tradicionais brasileiros, rituais, celebrações religiosas e festas populares —tudo em 78 artigos dedicados a essas e outras questões da gastronomia nacional. A Flip acontece entre os dias 1º e 5 de julho em Paraty (RJ). Uma homenagem aos pratos típicos da cidade está prevista para o encerramento da programação. PROGRAMAÇÃO COMPLETA DIA 1º/7 14h - O valor da vida: 10 anos da Agência Aids (com Roseli Tardell e Gil Gondim) 19h30 - A qualidade da alimentação sem sal (com Filipe Baccarin) DIA 2/7 10h30 - Conservas do meu Brasil: compotas, geleias e antepastos tipicamente nacionais (com Gil Gondim) 14h - Brasil bom de boca: temas de antropologia da alimentação (com Raul Lody e Luciana Marchetti da Silva) 16h - Mistura Morena: cozinha tropical brasileira (com Morena Leite; convidada musical: Giselle Tigre) 18h - A gastronomia no Brasil no século 19 (com André Boccato, Raul Lody e Zenir Aparecida Dalla Costa de Melo) 20h - Os livros como o alimento do espírito (com Jeane Passos e Rodrigo Ferraz; mediação: André Boccato) DIA 3/7 10h30 - Cadernos de receitas da Magali (com Rodrigo de Medeiros Paiva, Sergio Alves, Jeane dos Reis Passos e Zenir Aparecida Dalla Costa de Melo) 14h - Café com etc..., baseado no livro "Sou Barista" (com Concetta Marcelina e Fábio Colombini Fio) 16h - Ceviche: do Pacífico para o mundo (com Dagoberto Torres e Patrícia Moll) 18h30 - A virtude da gula: pensando a cozinha brasileira (com Raul Lody e Gil Gondim) 20h - Lançamento do livro "A Virtude da Gula: Pensando a Cozinha Brasileira" DIA 4/7 10h30 - Do grão à xícara, baseado no livro "Sou Barista" (com Concetta Marcelina e Luciana Marchetti da Silva) 14h - Para onde caminha a gastronomia brasileira? (com André Boccato, Morena Leite e Raul Lody; convidada musical: Giselle Tigre) 16h - A sensorialidade na gastronomia (com Fábio Colombini Fiori) 18h - Um doce Brasil, baseado no livro "Dicionário do Doceiro Brasileiro" (com Raul Lody e Otávia Sommavilla) 20h - Impacto do Prêmio Jabuti na criação e promoção literária (com Roger Mello e Marcelino Freire; mediação: Marisa Lajolo) 21h - Sarau: Mário de Andrade e o caju Marxista (com Zenir Aparecida Dalla Costa de Melo; convidada musical: Giselle Tigre) DIA 5/7 10h30 - Homenagem à gastronomia de Paraty (com Zenir Aparecida Dalla Costa de Melo, Luciana Marchetti da Silva e Ana Bueno) | comida |
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] | "Nem tudo o que eu gosto, eu consumo", disse o prefeito Fernando Haddad (PT), apreciador confesso de foie gras, sobre como faria para comer o ingrediente após o veto ao ingrediente. Nesta quinta-feira ele sancionou a lei que proíbe a produção e o comércio de foie gras em São Paulo. O prefeito comparou o ingrediente a cigarros e chocolates: "Gosto de cigarro, mas não fumo", disse. " Chocolate eu controlo." A Procuradoria Geral do Município havia recomendado o veto do prefeito ao projeto de lei argumentando que o tema não deveria ser tratado em âmbito municipal. Produção, consumo e proteção ambiental são assuntos federais. Haddad disse que a Procuradoria fez uma primeira interpretação da lei como um mecanismo que estivesse regendo o comércio na cidade de São Paulo. "Na minha visão não se trata disso. A intenção original do projeto desde sempre foi a questão ambiental, então não era uma lei que regia o que podia ou não ser comercializado na cidade." Para o prefeito, caberá ao judiciário, se provocado, decidir sobre a constitucionalidade da nova lei. "Mas, internamente, fizemos debate e descaracterizamos a inconstitucionalidade pela abordagem ambiental." Haddad argumenta que existem leis federais que proíbem os maus tratos aos animais. A base federal sustentaria a pretensão do vereador Laércio Benko (PHS), autor do projeto, e da câmara, que aprovou por unanimidade em votação simbólica, ter uma legislação mais dura na cidade sobre a questão ambiental. O prefeito disse ainda ser um assunto caro à comunidade. "Houve uma mobilização muito grande. Não é de hoje que a população se interessa pelo tema de sofrimento animal, então estamos levando muito a sério esse debate." Na quarta-feira (24), um grupo de ativistas pelos direitos dos animais fez uma manifestação na frente da prefeitura e Haddad recebeu um documento com 90 mil assinaturas a favor da proibição do foie gras. Colaborou Isabel Seta | comida |
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] | "Eu vou fazer o quê? Não vou comer foie gras escondido", disse o chef francês Erick Jacquin, jurado do Masterchef, sobre a proibição do foie gras na cidade de São Paulo. O prefeito Fernando Haddad (PT) sancionou, na noite desta quinta-feira (25), a lei que proíbe a produção e a venda de foie gras na cidade de São Paulo. O projeto, apresentado pelo vereador Laércio Benko (PHS) em 2013, havia sido aprovado por unanimidade na Câmara no último dia 13 de maio. A expectativa era que o prefeito vetasse o texto definido como inconstitucional pela Procuradoria Geral do Município. O órgão afirmou que o governo da cidade deve tratar de questões locais –não caberia à prefeitura legislar sobre o comércio de um produto, mas sim à União. "Isso não vai mudar a minha vida", disse o chef francês. "Eu não vou mais cozinhar e vender foie gras: vou aceitar e cumprir a lei. Mas eu espero que o prefeito tome atitudes também em outros temas políticos. Porque eu não sei se isso vai melhorar a cidade." Segundo Jacquin, a cozinha francesa continuará sendo boa. "Ninguém vai morrer porque não vai ter mais foie gras, vamos continuar cozinhando muito bem. O mercado deste ingrediente é muito pequeno. Preocupante é a situação do produtor, que investiu no negócio e agora vai perder dinheiro." | comida |
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] | O SubAstor, bar conhecido em São Paulo por seus drinques, reformulou sua carta e anuncia destaque a sabores tropicais e destilados latino-americanos. Os novos coquetéis vão ser vendidos a partir de quarta-feira (1o) e terão um preço único: R$ 29. O cardápio desenvolvido pelo bartender Fabio la Pietra tem 24 novas receitas e será apresentado em forma de cubo –os lados farão referência aos seis anos de atividade do bar. La Pietra, chefe de bar da casa desde 2013, se inspirou em ilhas paradisíacas do Pacífico para formular drinques com altas doses de rum e frutas tropicais, como o pain killer, que combina dois runs, abacaxi e leite de coco, um toque de bitter de absinto e suco de laranja. O buccanier grog leva rum cubano e jamaicano, vermute, limão, grapefruit e melaço e o mistery gardênia, que brinca com o clássico daiquiri, casa rum e limão com manteiga de garrafa. Há na carta também drinques sóbrios como o my hops don't lie, com gim e cordial de lúpulo (espécie de xarope feito com a planta) e o Ceará vs 007, uma versão do vesper martini, o preferido de James Bond, com vodca infusionada com castanha de caju. O Churchill tea cup, mistura uísque e chá preto defumado Lapsang Souchong. Para os paladares que preferem o doce, o clover club reúne gim, suco de limão, framboesa, açúcar e clara de ovo. SubAstor Onde r. Delfina, 163, Vila Madalena; tel. (11) 3815-1364 | comida |
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] | Morreu nesta terça-feira (23) o culinarista e escritor João Evangelista de Faria. João Rural, como era conhecido, estava internado em um hospital de São José dos Campos, no interior paulista, e teve um infarto. O pesquisador se debruçou sobre a cultura caipira e a cozinha do Vale do Paraíba, sua região natal, por mais de 30 anos. Já durante a infância em Paraibuna começou a relação dele com a comida, produzindo laticínios, ajudando na cozinha de casa e vendendo produtos da roça. Defensor do fogão a lenha, das panelas pretas e antigas e da comida servida quente, João Rural morreu aos 64 anos. Em livros, no site TV Chão Caipira e no blog Picuá de Prosa reuniu receitas e fez registros da cultura caipira. | comida |
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] | O Pomodori renasceu. Segue alinhado, mas sua cozinha ganhou ousadia –para o bem e para o mal– e ressurge menos fincada na Itália. Isso foi mérito de Tássia Guimarães, garota arrojada, de 25 anos, cuja estreia ali foi como estagiária. Ela acaba de quebrar o ciclo de uma insistente reprodução do que fora feito na casa desde que abriu, em 2003. O Pomodori nasceu elegante e viveu bons anos a mostrar um novo olhar da cozinha italiana para a tão italiana São Paulo. Também apresentou à cidade Jefferson Rueda –hoje, um dos mais mais prestigiados cozinheiros da cidade. Para além do ambiente, que ganhou novos ares (sisudo, quiçá arrogante), o cardápio tem hoje veia mais autoral. Serve de exemplo o falso ovo de galinha (R$ 35). Uma cerâmica remete à casca de ovo e guarda um creme firme e suave de couve-flor e queijo de cabra –morno, para não cozinhar as delicadas vieiras servidas junto. A conjugação de mar e terra também se repete em pratos, como no fusilli com polvo e linguiça (R$ 64). Faz-se notar o molho denso de tomate, a massa fresca e o ragu de linguiça encorpado com demi-glacê e com a gordura da pancetta. O cardápio anuncia trufas negras na paleta de cordeiro (R$ 77) –mas estas passam despercebidas. Para acompanhar, uma combinação neutra (quase insossa) de feijão-branco, vagem e nabo com batatas crocantes. Valem, ao menos, para não tirar atenção da carne. A mistura de muitos elementos, que marca boa parte do cardápio, pode soar exagerada, mas funciona bem no caso do bife de chorizo. Chega à mesa suculento e contrasta com a acidez do picles de abobrinha e pepino e com as gotas de geleia de funghi e de salsão. São míseras, mas fazem presença. Boa pedida para encerrar é o bolo de brigadeiro. Aliás, parece que há uma onda de bolos de chocolate e brigadeiro por aqui, vale investigar. POMODORI QUANDO: DE SEG. A QUI., DAS 12H ÀS 15H E DAS 18H À 0H; SEX. DAS 12H ÀS 15H E DAS 19H À 0H30; SÁB., DAS 13H ÀS 16H E DAS 19H À 0H30; DOM., DAS 13H ÀS 17H ONDE: R. DR. RENATO PAES DE BARROS, 534, ITAIM BIBI; TEL. (11) 3168-3123 | comida |
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] | Paulo Filho sabia de três coisas ao deixar o design. Queria sair da frente do computador, trabalhar em pé e com pessoas. Abriu um café, o Kof, com sua amiga arquiteta Camila Romano. Rodolfo Herrera e Flavio Seixlack também colocaram de lado as profissões de formação. E lá se foram para trás do balcão do pequeno Beluga Café, que eles mesmos montaram. Jamais imaginaram perder 10 quilos em poucos meses de trabalho. Como na "Quadrilha" de Drummond, Douglas Siqueira, que não tinha entrado na história, largou a vida de executivo e abriu o Torra Clara. Há muito em comum entre esses três cafés paulistanos -além de serem tocados pessoalmente por seus proprietários. Talvez sejam fruto de um movimento impulsionado pela abertura, mais remota, do Coffee Lab, que adotou sistema descomplicado de serviço e teve ótima projeção. Todos eles têm estruturas enxutíssimas, e serviço idem. O cliente deve fazer o pedido no balcão e nenhum cobra os 10% de taxa habitual. O fato de essas cafeterias serem um plano B, no entanto, não diminui o cuidado que há por trás dos negócios. Os donos estudam o produto e garimpam cafés de alta qualidade, a exemplo da edição limitada de catuaí vermelho vendido no Beluga. Como outros pequenos lotes, os grãos são produzidos com cuidado, sob condições especiais de clima e de solo, com características únicas de aroma e sabor. Exemplares do produtor e torrefador Hugo Wolff e grãos da Fazenda Ambiental Fortaleza (FAF), no ramo desde 1850 no interior de SP, também marcam presença. No Torra Clara pode-se provar boa parte da linha da FAF, como o Carmen Miranda (R$ 7). Este, preparado no V 60 (um coador com sulcos internos em espiral, que permitem melhor fluxo da água), mostra notas florais e doçura acentuada -em parte, graças ao seu processamento natural, no qual o grão seca com polpa e casca. Nota-se, ainda, a exploração dos mais variados métodos de preparo. No Kof, por exemplo, há um ousado (para brasileiros) café coado no gelo (R$ 10). Para a dose dupla, faz-se uma extração concentrada do café sobre o gelo, que, conforme derrete, dá bom equilíbrio à bebida. Para abastecer o cardápio, firmam parcerias com fornecedores selecionados, outro reflexo da estrutura enxuta. O Torra Clara recebe tortas do Torta no Quintal -a de cinco cogumelos com cream cheese e massa podre já nasceu hit (R$ 26, com salada). No Beluga, o pão de mel com geleia de damasco e chocolate meio amargo (R$ 5, a fatia) sai das mãos da dupla Beza, formada por uma polonesa e uma belga. No balcão, bolos de uma "boleira do bairro" e waffles. Estes são também boa pedida no Kof. Lá, são fornecidos por Thierry Pouge, outro sujeito que largou sua profissão-plano-A para dedicar-se a uma pequena produção de waffles (fofos por dentro e crocantes por fora; a R$ 7, para besuntar com manteiga) e de cookies (altos, macios, a R$ 7). Eis que comes, bebes e o clima despretensioso desses cafés andam atraindo público. No mesmo embalo que a gastronomia tem seguido em São Paulo: mais simples e descomplicada. TORRA CLARA Onde r. Oscar Freire, 2.286, Pinheiros, tel. 11/3297-8486 Kof - King of the Fork Onde r. Artur de Azevedo, 1.317, Pinheiros, tel. 11/2533-9391 BELUGA CAFÉ Onde r. Doutor Cesário Mota Júnior, 379, Vila Buarque; tel. 11/3214-5322 | comida |
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] | Os cafeicultores Hugo Wolff, da Fazenda Portal da Serra, de Ibiraci, Minas Gerais, e Mariano Martins, da Fazenda Santa Margarida, região sorocabana do estado de São Paulo, estão cada vez mais focados em desenvolver cafés personalizados para restaurantes e cafeterias. Wolff montou no ano passado uma pequena torrefação na zona norte da capital e já tem seus cafés servidos no restaurante Conceição Discos, e em cafeterias como King of the Fork, Beluga, Torra Clara e O Café. Martins diz que já criou dezenas de blends (combinações de grãos) para seus clientes. "Fazemos um desenvolvimento sensorial dirigido a cardápios específicos e perfil de público. No restaurante Oui, por exemplo, a ideia é que a bebida harmonize com a carta de sobremesas", diz. Recentemente ele passou a assinar cafés servidos no restaurante Vito, de André Mifano. Quem também se rendeu aos cafés de alta qualidade há algum tempo é Bel Coelho. A chef dedica um curso do seu menu-degustação de 12 tempos exclusivamente à bebida, no espaço Clandestino, em São Paulo. "Sirvo café coado da FAF [Fazenda Ambiental Fortaleza] acompanhado de queijos brasileiros e méis de abelhas nativas. A reação dos clientes é muito positiva, pois eles gostam de conhecer mais sobre café e muitas vezes aceitam a sugestão de não tomar com açúcar", afirma Bel, que já esteve três vezes na fazenda, em Mococa (a 262 km de São Paulo), uma delas para gravação de um programa de TV. Felipe Croce, da FAF, criou um estúdio no bairro do Sumaré, em São Paulo, onde torra seus próprios grãos e atende essa demanda, segundo ele, crescente, de restaurantes em busca de um café feito "sob medida". Para ele, o contato com chefs de cozinha é produtivo, pois há uma afinidade na linguagem, que envolve sensibilidade olfativa e gustativa, fundamental para criar uma bebida personalizada. Além de Bel Coelho, é seu cliente o francês Thierry Buffeteau, responsável pelos restaurantes do hotel Grand Hyatt em São Paulo, que se diz apaixonado pela filosofia do cafeicultor. "Além de oferecer os grãos que servimos em nosso restaurante C- Cultura Caseira, eles ajudam pequenos produtores da região com apoio à produção sustentável e colocação de seus produtos no mercado". Recentemente Croce recebeu a visita do chef Alberto Landgraf, do paulistano Epice, um dos brasileiros agraciados com uma estrela no guia "Michelin" neste ano. O chef diz que embora já utilize grãos orgânicos da Fazenda Nobre, de propriedade de seu sócio, está trabalhando para se diferenciar ainda mais no serviço de cafés, por isso visitou a FAF. "Quero ampliar variedades e formas de extração, hoje só sirvo a bebida no método espresso automatizado. Acho que tenho obrigação de oferecer opções diferentes aos meus clientes, pois vejo que uma parte deles já está interessada em cafés de qualidade." Dez lugares Confira endereços paulistanos que apostam em cafés com origem e assinatura Meats Hamburgueria r. dos Pinheiros, 320, Pinheiros; tel. (11) 2679-6323 Variedades Bourbon Amarelo, Catuaí Amarelo e Catuaí Vermelho, produzidos e torrados por Mariano Martins, da fazenda Santa Margarida, São Manuel, SP. Os aromas dominantes são de caramelo e baunilha e o café é preparado no coador e servido numa garrafa térmica que vai até a mesa do cliente Conceição Discos r. Imaculada Conceição, 151 - Vila Buarque A chef Talitha Barros serve café da variedade Caparaó Amarelo produzido a 1.200 metros de altitude, por Manoel Protazio de Abreu, no Espírito Santo, e torrado por Hugo Wolff em São Paulo. Na xícara, a bebida sugere notas de pitanga, especiarias e mel Oui r. Vupabussu, 71, Pinheiros; tel. (11)3360-4491 Café composto por variedades Bourbon Amarelo e Catuaí Vermelho da fazenda Santa Margarida, SP, produzidos e torrados por Mariano Martins. Bebida de corpo médio, com aroma que lembra frutas amarelas e boa potência na xícara Forquilha r. Vupabussu, 347, Pinheiros; tel. (11) 2371-7981 A mestre de torra do Sofá Café, Regina Machado, criou para o restaurante um blend das variedades Maragogipe e Bourbon Amarelo, da Fazenda Baú, MG, com bastante doçura, um toque azedinho e quase nenhum amargor Comedoria Gonzales r. Pedro Cristi, 89, Pinheiros (no Mercado de Pinheiros) O chef Checho Gonzales encomendou ao Sofá Café grãos da variedade Bourbon Vermelho da fazenda Baú, MG, e oferece cafés encorpados, com doçura natural à baixa acidez Kosushi r. Viradouro, 139, Itaim Bibi; tel. (11) 3167-7272 Variedade Bourbon Amarelo produzido pela fazenda Santa Alina em São Sebastião da Grama, SP, e torrados por Suplicy Cafés em São Paulo. Bebida com corpo suave, doçura marcante e leve acidez cítrica Cha-Cha r. Leopoldo Couto de Magalhães Júnior, 1.098, Itaim Bibi; tel. (11)2640-4004 A nova casa de Charlô Whately serve um blend do Suplicy Cafés composto pelas variedades Acaiá e Bourbon Amarelo da Fazenda Pinhal, Santo Antonio do Amparo, sul de Minas. Tem aroma frutado, paladar levemente cítrico e corpo balanceado La Central av. Ipiranga, 200 | Loja 53; tel. (11) 3214-5359 A casa usa grãos orgânicos da Fazenda Ambiental Fortaleza, Mococa, SP, torrados no estúdio Isso é Café, da FAF, em São Paulo. Notas de melaço de cana e açúcar mascavo compõem o blend que recebe o nome de Espresso22 Clandestino r. Medeiros de Albuquerque, 97, Vila Madalena; tel. (11) 96055-7700 Bel Coelho só atende sob-reserva e apresenta cafés da variedade Obatã, da FAF (Fazenda Ambiental Fortaleza). Segundo a chef, é excelente no método coado, pois revela notas de frutas cítricas e nuances de baunilha e açúcar mascavo Epice r. Haddock Lobo, 1.002, Jardim Paulista; tel. (11) 3062-0866 Alberto Landgraf serve grãos orgânicos da fazenda Nobre, Mococa, SP, que são torrados no estúdio Isso é Café, da FAF em São Paulo. A proposta é uma bebida equilibrada com doçura natural e toques de caramelo no paladar | comida |
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] | A Itália terá, a partir do primeiro trimestre de 2016, uma instituição de ensino especial: a Universidade do Panetone, em Pádua. A ideia do projeto é reforçar o conhecimento das melhores técnicas na produção de massas, de fermentação e de cozimento para obter a maior variedade possível de doces italianos em todas as estações do ano. Assim como o tradicional panetone do Natal ou a colomba da Páscoa, o curso pretende ensinar técnicas para a criação de produtos que devem ser vendidos em outras épocas do ano. A grade curricular será dividida em três níveis. No primeiro, haverá o estudo de técnicas de fermentação aplicadas a diferentes tipos de farinha e com massas compostas por diferentes bases aromáticas. O segundo será focado nas estruturas e formas dos levedos doces, valorizando detalhes de cada estação. No último, serão protagonistas as técnicas de cozinha e de cozimento que completarão a produção de panetones e afins, para serem consumidos de maneira fresca ao longo de todo o ano. As aulas serão ministradas no mesmo local que, em 2006, viu o surgimento da Universidade da Pizza, na antiga sede da Molino Quaglia em Vighizzolo d'Este. | comida |
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] | "O que esse Alex Atala faz?", perguntou um rapaz que passava em frente à barraca do chef na Virada Cultural, na noite de sábado (20). "Galinhada", respondeu o amigo, olhando para o cartaz que anunciava o prato servido no evento, na praça Roosevelt, em São Paulo. "Ah, eu queria sanduíche de carne louca", disse o menino, que deixou a iguaria do cozinheiro famoso para trás. Já a publicitária Jaqueline Asmir, 24, sabia exatamente quem era o anfitrião daquela barraquinha, montada em meio a outras dez, de diferentes restaurantes, todas servindo galinhada. "Ele é o nono melhor do mundo. Caiu neste ano, mas continua entre os dez", afirmou ela, que ficou alguns minutos na fila para comprar, por R$ 30, a comida, vendida em uma caixa. Foi assim, entre fãs e pessoas que passavam no local por acaso, que Atala permaneceu das 19h30 à meia-noite na praça Roosevelt. Nesse tempo, duas filas se formavam: uma para comprar a galinhada e outra para tirar foto com o chef. Atala foi curador do evento neste ano e ajudou a planejar a parte gastronômica para que não se repetisse a confusão da Virada Cultural de 2012, quando houve tumulto na barraca da galinhada do chef, no Minhocão. Atala conversou com a Folha na praça Roosevelt e, além de comemorar a tranquilidade da galinhada deste ano, criticou o projeto de lei municipal para proibir o foie grais e comentou o resultado do último 50 Best Restaurants, dos melhores restaurantes do mundo, divulgado em 1º de junho. "É um absurdo", falou o chef sobre a proposta, de autoria do vereador Laércio Benko (PHS), de vetar a produção e a venda, em São Paulo, do ingrediente feito de fígado de pato em São Paulo. A produção envolve a alimentação forçada das aves, por meio de um tubo de silicone introduzido na garganta. "Como é possível a cidade regulamentar o que a pessoa come? Onde isso vai parar?", indagou Atala. "A gastronomia é uma força turística de São Paulo. Em vez de tolher, deveriam promovê-la", afirmou. O chef minimizou a queda de seu restaurante D.O.M. no 50 Best, de sétimo para nono lugar: "Para mim, entrar no 50 Best foi incrível. Estar há dez anos na lista é um supergol. Mas, claro, eu tenho família, tenho outros projetos", disse ele. Atala disse estar preocupado com o fato de o Brasil ter perdido espaço na lista dos melhores do mundo. "Já tivemos três entre os 50, agora somos dois [além do D.O.M., está o Maní, de Helena Rizzo, na 36ª colocação]", lamentou. Para ele, isso tende a piorar: "O Brasil vai ficar para trás do mundo todo se continuar assim, sem incentivar a sua gastronomia. Temos menos restaurantes no ranking do que a Argentina", disse. O incentivo, para o chef, deveria partir também do governo. "É preciso valorizar nossos ingredientes internacionalmente. O governo precisaria promover nossa comida, como o Peru fez, por exemplo." | comida |
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] | O chef japonês Shin Koike, do restaurante Sakagura, vai realizar neste sábado (20) mais uma edição do evento gastronômico "Comida de Rua, né?". Serão servidas duas receitas: o omuraisu, omelete sobre arroz pilaf (preparado com especiarias e popular no Oriente Médio), e o hayashi raisu –conhecido como o "estrogonofe japonês"–, preparado com carne acebolada ao molho demiglace e servido com arroz branco. Ambos os pratos custarão R$ 20. O evento será das 12h30 às 16h no deque do restaurante, que fica no bairro Itaim Bibi, em São Paulo. 11ª EDIÇÃO "COMIDA DE RUA, NÉ?" Onde Sakagura A1 (r. Jerônimo da Veiga, 74, Itaim Bibi; tel. 11/3078-3883 Quando 20 de junho (sábado), das 12h30 às 16h | comida |
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] | Os Minions, personagens amarelos do filme "Meu Malvado Favorito" que ganharam seu próprio longa, deram formato às batatas fritas do McDonald's. As porções de batatas que lembram as "smile" começaram as ser vendidas, nesta quarta (17), nas unidades brasileiras da rede. A embalagem vem com 20 unidades e pode substituir as fritas convencionais dos combos do McDonald's por um valor adicional. Os pequenos seres amarelos são assistentes do ex-vilão Gru e roubaram a cena no filme "Meu Malvado Favorito". No dia 25, a Universal Pictures lança o filme dos Minions. Além das batatas, a rede de lanchonetes volta a oferecer o caldo & freddo, que combina baunilha e uma das três opções de cobertura: banana com pedaços da fruta, chocolate ou caramelo. A sobremesa é finalizada com duas tortinhas de banana (a fruta que os Minions adoram). | comida |
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] | Uma busca no guia de restaurantes da "Time Out" traz 155 tailandeses em Londres. O cenário é parecido em Nova York e Sydney. Já na versão paulistana do guia, a categoria nem sequer existe. Lanterninha entre as metrópoles gastronômicas, São Paulo tenta, de novo, fincar o pé nesse território de temperos exóticos. Nesta semana, entrou em cartaz o novo menu do Satay. A influência chinesa, que dominava o restaurante desde a inauguração, em 2013, cede lugar a receitas tailandesas, com pitadas de outros países do sudeste asiático, como Vietnã. A renovação chega a 90% dos pratos. À frente da cozinha está Mauricio Santi, 35. Ele percorreu a Tailândia de ponta a ponta, trabalhou em casas de família como cozinheiro, barracas de rua e no Nahm, em Bangcoc, sétimo melhor do continente pelo Asia's 50 Best Restaurants 2015. Agora quer apresentar ao paulistano pratos fiéis às versões originais. Além de três tipos de noodles, mostra o pad thai como deve ser. "Leva suco de tamarindo, açúcar de palmeira, nabo fermentado, tofu seco, moyashi, nirá e amendoim." Confira receita do pad thai. Também nesta semana, o hotel Tivoli Mofarrej e a Tourism Authority of Thailand, entidade vinculada ao governo tailandês, promovem um festival gastronômico -o chef Adtavorn Charoonpontithi veio da Tailândia para preparar as receitas, servidas nos três restaurantes do hotel. Não é a primeira tentativa de fazer a comida thai emplacar no Brasil. Na última década, a embaixada tailandesa vem promovendo jantares para sindicatos de hotéis e restaurantes e participando de programas de TV com o intuito de divulgar a culinária -sem grandes efeitos. A dificuldade para se obter ingredientes autênticos, afirma Santi, contribui para que os pratos permaneçam desconhecidos -ou sejam descaracterizados. "Não basta jogar molho de peixe e gengibre para virar thai", diz. Para superar a falta de ervas frescas, como a pandanus e o bai cha plu, Santi trouxe sementes da Ásia e cultiva uma horta em caráter experimental. "Estou tentando fazer parcerias com importadores, donos de restaurantes e a embaixada tailandesa para ter maior poder de compra." Apesar de pouco numerosa em São Paulo, a classe dos cozinheiros thai é unida. Um dos membros mais atuantes é o mexicano Hugo Delgado, sócio do Obá. "Quando abri o restaurante, há dez anos, adotamos a cozinha mestiça. Não havia espaço para algo só thai ou só mexicano", lembra. "Agora melhorou, mas precisamos trabalhar juntos." ABRE-E-FECHA Nesse período, a cidade testemunhou o abre-e-fecha de casas como o Nam Thai e o Thai Gardens. O Nama Baru, por sua vez, encerrou as atividades em 2014 e acaba de voltar como food truck. Resistem na cidade restaurantes que se inspiram nessa cozinha, com adaptações. É o caso do Marakuthai, que diz adotar o "sotaque tailandês". Inaugurado na Ilhabela em 2008, chegou à capital em 2010, nos Jardins, e neste ano ganhou a terceira unidade, no Itaim. O Mestiço, de 1997, mescla especialidades tailandesas a toques baianos. Para Hugo Delgado, do Obá, o paulistano não tem paladar tão cosmopolita como pensa. "Ele aceita bem as cozinhas italiana, japonesa e sírio-libanesa, mas resiste a outras, como thai e indiana." Ique Lopes, proprietário do Nama Baru, faz coro. "A comida thai é tendência no mundo, mas nosso público é conservador. Tem gente que tenta, mas devolve o prato, dizendo que não consegue comer camarão com abacaxi." Proprietário do Namga e do delivery Tele-thai, Roni Kormis estima que a falta de imigrantes tailandeses ajuda a manter as receitas como algo exótico para o dia a dia. "Não temos cozinheiros especializados, só quem viaja aprende a fazer." Apesar dos percalços, a rede Tomyam, comandada por Ricardo Gurgel, vai de vento em popa. Fundada em Curitiba, em 2004, tem unidades em Campinas e São Paulo. "É um desafio. Muita gente nem experimenta por achar que são pratos muito picantes. Mas quem prova entende que os sabores se equilibram de forma apaixonante." ONDE COMER Tivoli Mofarrej Onde al. Santos, 1.437, Jardim Paulista, tel. (11) 3146-5900 O quê 3º Festival Gastronômico Tailandês, até 20/6, com menu-degustação de cinco etapas (R$ 159/pessoa), no Arola Vintetres, ou petiscos e bufê nos outros restaurantes Satay Onde r. Padre João Manuel, 1.249, Cerqueira César, tel. (11) 3068-0169 O quê Noodle curry (R$ 39), salada de salmão curado (R$ 35), pad thai (R$ 44) Namga Onde r. Apiacás, 92, Perdizes, tel. (11) 2507-1774 O quê Neua satay (espetinho de carne marinada no leite de coco; R$ 24,50), keng kiaw waan (curry verde de camarão com berinjela, limão keffir e manjericão; R$ 63) Tomyam Onde r. José Maria Lisboa, 1.065, Jardim Paulista, tel. (11) 4329-1002 O quê Krathong de siri (R$ 13) e sopa de camarão no copo (R$ 8) Tele-thai Onde telethai.com.br (delivery que entrega em bairros da zonas oeste, norte e sul) O quê Krok muh (bolinho de lombo com molho picante; R$ 22) e khao pad (arroz frito com tofu, molho de ostra, alho e vegetais; R$ 46) Mestiço Onde r. Fernando de Albuquerque, 277, Consolação; tel. (11) 3256-3165 O quê Krathong-thong, cestinhas de massa crocante recheadas com frango, milho e especiarias (R$ 29,30) Marakuthai Onde al. Itu, 1.618, Jardim Paulista; tel. (11) 3062-7556 O quê Kampuchea (tiras de filé em curry vermelho, com arroz jasmim e farofa de banana; R$ 52) A essência da cozinha thai Curry diferente do indiano, é pastoso e muito picante. Tem como base ervas frescas e condimentos triturados. Há três variedades, verde, vermelho e amarelo, conforme a espécie de pimenta predominante Nam pla molho salgado à base de peixe Açúcar de palma marrom claro, é originário da seiva da palmeira Galanga considerado o gengibre tailandês, é uma raiz usada para aromatizar os curries Limão keffir espécie muito aromática, da qual são usadas sobretudo as folhas | comida |
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] | Um "Galinhódromo" reunirá, no fim de semana, barraquinhas de casas famosas da capital paulista, com diferentes receitas da popular galinhada. Este é um dos destaques desta edição da Virada Cultural, que acontece entre os dias 20 e 21 de junho. O espaço para isso será a praça Roosevelt, no centro da cidade. Vão participar do "Galinhódromo", por exemplo, Aconchego Carioca, Bar da Dona Onça, Bar do Biu, Consulado Mineiro, Galinhada do Bahia e Mocotó. Também estará no espaço a barraquinha do Dalva e Dito, restaurante do chef Alex Atala. Em 2012, o prato foi servido no Minhocão e atraiu uma multidão, gerando tumulto durante a madrugada. Na Praça da República, haverá uma homenagem a cantora Inezita Barroso e barraquinhas vão servir receitas juninas como canjica, quentão, vinho quente e milho. "Bike foods" vão ocupar a região da Luz, com quitutes brasileiros, peruanos, japoneses e vegetarianos. No Largo São Francisco acontecerá mais uma edição da feirinha gastronômica Chefs na Rua. Para as crianças, haverá a Feira Gastronômica da Magali, em homenagem aos 50 anos da personagem da Turma da Mônica. As barracas vão ter comidas brasileira e italiana, espetinhos e receitas saudáveis. Mais informações no site viradacultural.prefeitura.sp.gov.br/2015. | comida |
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] | No mês passado, uma garrafa de Porto Ferreira Vintage 1815 foi leiloada pela Sotheby's na Torre de Londres, parte das comemorações pelos 200 anos da batalha de Waterloo. Atingiu o preço 6.800 euros (R$ 23.810). "Muito barato", segundo Manuel de Novaes Cabral, presidente do Instituto dos Vinhos do Douro e do Porto (IVDP), que esteve no Brasil para promover os vinhos da região. "Imagine uma garrafa que resistiu por 200 anos a tudo, inclusive à tentação dos homens que não beberam seu conteúdo. Quanto vale isso?" A história e a tradição que o cercam foram e ainda são o grande trunfo do vinho do Porto. Contudo, inovação não é dispensável. E seus produtores sabem disso. Presidente do IVDP desde 2011, Cabral falou à Folha sobre tradição, inovações e educação do consumidor: Folha - No ano passado, havia dois Portos entre os cem melhores vinhos da revista americana "Wine Spectator". O vinho do Porto está vivendo um momento de renascimento? Manuel Cabral - O vinho do Porto sempre foi associado a grandes momentos. Tem 300 anos de evolução e tradição. Mas não podemos ficar sentados na poltrona da história. Não queremos perder a tradição, porém nas últimas duas décadas estamos buscando novas formas de consumo e novos consumidores. Foram criados, por exemplo, novos tipos de Porto, como o Porto rosé, os Portos brancos com indicação de idade e o Crusted. Mas não é só com novos tipos de vinhos que se aumenta o consumo. Estamos trabalhando bastante a questão da harmonização. As pessoas estão acostumadas a beber Porto como aperitivo ou como vinho de sobremesa. Estamos mostrando que há outras possibilidades. Na França, que é o nosso maior mercado consumidor, por exemplo, vinho do Porto é considerado "vin aperitiff", para beber antes das refeições. As empresas também passaram a incentivar que as pessoas tomem coquetéis de vinho do Porto. A visibilidade dos vinhos tintos do Douro, feitos com as mesmas uvas, ajudou a chamar a atenção para o vinho do Porto? Sim. Além disso, a região do Douro Vinhateiro se tornou patrimônio da humanidade em 2001. Com isso, aumentou o turismo na região. E nunca tivemos tanto turismo em Portugal como agora. Está tudo intimamente ligado. Entre o ano 2000 e 2010, houve uma queda nas vendas de vinho do Porto. E, de lá para cá, embora o vinho do Porto ande obtendo maior reconhecimento da crítica, as vendas permaneceram estáveis. O que houve? Os antigos morreram e não surgiram novos? Não quero acreditar nisso. O consumo não é uniforme. Os gostos e hábitos oscilam. Em um determinado momento, os consumidores decidiram que vinhos doces e de elevada graduação alcoólica não eram adequados a seu paladar. Mas o gosto já está a se alterar. Por outro lado, no mundo todo, cada vez se produz vinhos de maior qualidade. A concorrência é brutal. Não podemos nos dar ao luxo de desprezar o mercado. E, além disso, temos um vinho que não é fácil de comunicar. As pessoas têm dificuldade de entender o vinho do Porto. O que é preciso para se entender o vinho do Porto? Primeiro, saber que existem quatro famílias de Porto. Duas grandes: os Ruby e os Tawny. E duas menores que estão aparecendo mais agora: os rosés e os brancos. Depois, que todas elas têm vários subgrupos, especialmente as duas grandes. Ensinar sobre cada um deles é um trabalho educacional, pedagógico, que tem sido feito até em Portugal, porque o português também não conhece bem o vinho do Porto, um vinho que foi sempre feito para exportação. As pessoas não sabem o que é, como beber, a que temperatura, em que copo, com o que harmonizar. Os aficionados têm todo um ritual para beber Porto, não? Sim, pequenas coisas. Em um jantar, um Porto nunca deve ser servido pelos empregados. Tem de circular pela mesa, sempre pela esquerda. Se alguém demora com a garrafa na mão, não se diz "Por favor, me passe a garrafa" e, sim, "Do you know the Bishop of Norwich?" (Você conhece o bispo de Norwich?). Pois, diz a tradição, que houve um bispo em Norwich, na Inglaterra, muito velho, que dormia e se esquecia de passar a garrafa. Na Inglaterra, é o único vinho com o qual se faz o brinde à rainha sem se levantar. Tudo faz parte da tradição. Ainda há um domínio dos ingleses na produção e no comércio de vinho do Porto? Como é a relação entre as famílias inglesas e as portuguesas? Há uma separação entre elas? O que há é uma influência inglesa. Mas não só inglesa. Há também famílias de origem escocesa, holandesa, alemã. O Reino Unido foi durante anos o principal mercado para o vinho do Porto. Hoje não é mais. Perdeu para a França. Mas os ingleses, de fato, tiveram grande influência na cidade do Porto. Ainda hoje há a Feitoria Inglesa, uma instituição que cuida dos interesses dos comerciantes ingleses residentes na região, a arquitetura da cidade é cheia de exemplos dessa influência, há os clubes ingleses, as escolas inglesas. Mas não vejo separação. Na verdade, não há nem domínio. Desde o século 19, já havia igual número de portugueses e ingleses a comercializar vinho do Porto. Hoje, cinco empresas são responsáveis pela comercialização de 83% do vinho do Porto. Duas delas pertencem a famílias de origem inglesa: a Taylor's e a Symington. Muitos dos vinhos do Porto vendidos hoje foram produzidos por gerações passadas, vinhos que têm 20, 40 anos de idade. Para não falar das raridades, como os Portos de mais de cem anos. E a geração de hoje, trabalha para que a próxima geração tenha o que vender? Em um mundo tão imediatista, como vocês conseguem manter essa cadeia? As pessoas que trabalham com algo ligado à terra estão acostumadas a isso. Em geral, você não planta uma árvore para si mesmo. Planta para as gerações futuras. Fazemos investimentos para o futuro. Não é por acaso que boa parte das empresas de vinho do Porto está na mão de uma mesma família a centenas de anos. Não que essas empresas não queiram ganhar dinheiro, mas elas têm uma perspectiva geracional. Além disso, temos leis que ajudam o produtor a não cair na tentação de esgotar seus estoques. A Lei do Terço, que impõe que as vendas de uma empresa se limitem a um terço do seu estoque em armazém, e outros mecanismos preveem a necessidade de envelhecimento do vinho do Porto. Toda empresa tem interesse de, vez ou outra, tirar da cartola uma surpresa para o mercado. Uma empresa de tecnologia lança um tablet com novas funções. Uma empresa de vinho do Porto surpreende o mercado com um lote de vinho antigo. As empresas às vezes anunciam que descobriram um lote de vinho muito antigo. Como isso é possível? Ainda existem barricas antigas que não foram contabilizadas? Sim, ainda há alguns estoques, principalmente em pequenas quintas, de barricas de vinho antigo das quais não temos registro nem conhecimento. Agora estão, por exemplo, descobrindo lotes de Porto branco muito antigos ainda em barrica. Os anos fazem com que eles escureçam. O branco, o tawny e o ruby vão se aproximando com o tempo, podendo até inverter as cores. É difícil diferenciar um tawny velho de um branco velho. E, no caso dos já engarrafados, os rótulos antigos nem sempre traziam todas as informações. Que conselhos o senhor daria para o consumidor iniciante? Primeiro, na hora de comprar, procure uma loja de vinhos da sua confiança e peça indicação para o vendedor. Experimente os quatro tipos de vinho do Porto. Ruby, Tawny, branco e rosé, para saber o que lhe agrada. Para tomar como aperitivo, escolha um branco ou um tawny. Para acompanhar um doce conventual português, um tawny 20 ou 30 anos. Com queijos mais densos, tipo Serra da Estrela, um Vintage ou um LBV. Para impressionar, um vintage ou um colheita do ano de nascimento (ou casamento) da pessoa. Confira receita de drinque com vinho do Porto criado por Angel Rubianes, bartender do Ovo e Uva, em São Paulo. O ABC do Vinho do Porto Entenda o que vem escrito no rótulo Ruby Vinho tinto, de tom avermelhado e aroma frutado. Há o Ruby simples, o Reserva, o Crusted, o Late Bottled Vintage (LBV) e o Vintage. Tawny Vinho tinto, mas de tom acastanhado, com aroma de frutas secas. É produzido a partir da mistura de vinhos de grau de maturação diferente, que passaram por barris ou tonéis de carvalho. Quando são engarrafados estão prontos para serem consumidos. Pode ser simples, Reserva, Colheita ou ter Indicação de Idade (10, 20, 30 ou + 40 anos). Branco Feito a partir de castas brancas. Pode ter vários estilos, diversos graus de envelhecimento e diferentes teores de açúcar. O branco leve seco, por exemplo, tem aroma floral e complexo e baixa graduação alcoólica (16,5%). Pode ser simples, Reserva ou ter Indicação de Idade (10, 20, 30 ou + 40 anos). Rosé Vinho rosa, obtido por maceração pouco intensa de uvas tintas, com aromas de cereja, framboesa e morangos. Podem ser consumidos com gelo. Muito usados para coquetéis. Reserva Pode ser um Ruby ou um Tawny. O Ruby é uma seleção dos melhores vinhos do Porto do ano. Encorpado e frutado, tem tom vermelho rubi. O Porto Tawny Reserva é envelhecido em carvalho, tem tom âmbar e tons de oxidação, mas mantém os aromas frutados. Crusted Um Ruby, de categoria especial, que envelheceu na garrafa por três anos antes de chegar ao mercado. É encorpado e tem aroma de frutos vermelhos. Tawny 10, 20, 30 ou +40 anos Um blend de vinhos cuja a média de idades é a indicada na garrafa. Como todo Tawny têm notas de oxidação, que se intensifica com a idade. A cor vai acastanhando cada vez mais até tornar-se ambar claro. E os aromas de frutas secas vão predominando. Colheita De uma só colheita são envelhecidos em carvalho por um mínimo de sete anos. O tom varia do tinto aloirado ao aloirado, dependendo da idade. Igualmente os aromas e sabores evoluem ao longo do tempo originando diversos estilos de Tawnies. Late Bottled Vintage (LBV) É um Ruby de uma só safra, escolhido por sua qualidade superior. É engarrafado depois de um período de envelhecimento de quatro a seis anos. Alguns podem continuar o seu envelhecimento em garrafa (verifique o rótulo). Tem tom vermelho rubi intenso, é bastante encorpado e rico na boca. Algumas características variam de acordo com a safra. Vintage Considerado o melhor de todos, amadurece em garrafa. Produzido a partir de uvas de uma única safra, é engarrafado dois a três anos após a vindima. Pode ser guardado por décadas. Não deve ser consumido antes de 10 anos. | comida |
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] | Chibé (prato indígena à base de água e farinha de mandioca) com abacaxi da Amazônia, formiga e pimenta-baniwa e pé de moleque de banana e calda de cumaru. Essas são duas das receitas que o chef Felipe Schaedler (do restaurante Banzeiro, em Manaus) vai trazer para a cozinha do restaurante Dalva e Dito, de Alex Atala, entre os dias 22 e 26 de junho. O chef, que trabalhou com Atala no início da carreira, vai preparar um menu de cinco fases. O jantar custará R$ 160 por pessoa. Os pratos apresentados por Felipe Schaedler são resultado das pesquisas que tem desenvolvido na Amazônia. O chef vem pesquisando, por exemplo, cogumelos amazônicos há mais de dois anos em parceria com o Grupo de Pesquisas Cogumelos da Amazônia e com Alex Atala. DALVA E DITO CONVIDA FELIPE SCHAEDLER Onde Dalva e Dito, r. Padre João Manuel, 1.115; tel. (11) 3068-4444 Quando dias 22 (jantar), 23 a 26 (almoço e jantar) de junho Quanto R$ 160 (menu com cinco etapas), bebidas, valet e serviço não estão inclusos Mais dalvaedito.com.br | comida |
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] | No bairro de Mouraria, em Lisboa, prédios escondem restaurantes que funcionam dentro de residências de imigrantes chineses. Mesmo clandestinas, as casas de refeições fartas e baratas estão ficando tão populares que entraram na rota da revista "Time Out" e de sites de busca como Zomato, Foursquare e Yelp –turistas estrangeiros já são figuras carimbadas nestes endereços. Os "restaurantes caseiros", sem licença para operar, já foram alvo de uma ação, em 2006, do governo português. Na época, a "Operação Oriente", realizada pela Autoridade de Segurança Alimentar e Econômica (ASAE), suspendeu as atividades de cerca de 80% dos restaurantes chineses sem permissão. De acordo com o Regulamento nº 852 do Parlamento Europeu (que trata da legislação alimentar), os estabelecimentos devem cumprir medidas de higiene como armazenar alimentos em temperatura controlada, disponibilizar instalações sanitárias em número suficiente e manter produtos de limpeza distantes das áreas de manuseio de alimentos. Segundo a ASAE, as ações são motivadas por riscos detectados em uma determinada região, por denúncias de moradores ou quando integram uma "varredura", ou seja, quando os inspetores visitam todos os estabelecimentos de uma mesma rua. Mas, atualmente, o governo tem tido dificuldade em fiscalizar e aplicar a lei, e a região voltou a reunir os restaurantes ilegais. Um deles é o de Teng Hua Li, 60, que abre as suas portas todos os dias da semana, há três anos. Tio, como é conhecido, faz tudo na casa: compra os alimentos, prepara, cozinha, serve os pratos e cuida da limpeza. "Eu sou o responsável pelo controle de qualidade do que sirvo aos clientes e quero lhes oferecer a melhor experiência possível. O risco existe em qualquer lugar, com ou sem licença para funcionar, isso tem a ver com a moralidade do dono", diz. Luísa Zhang, 23 anos, é estudante e frequenta o restaurante desde a abertura. "Fiquei sabendo da existência dele através de amigos. Há dias em que termino os estudos muito tarde e a maioria dos lugares está com a cozinha fechada. Sempre que venho ao Tio, não importa a hora, ele cozinha para mim", conta. A casa, com capacidade para cerca de 35 pessoas, não tem placa na entrada. Fica em um prédio, de uma avenida movimentada, que mantém sua porta aberta da manhã até tarde da noite. "Quando abri, em 2012, os primeiros clientes foram chineses. Hoje, o segredo espalhou-se e recebo muitos portugueses, entre eles, membros do governo que vem para experimentar a verdadeira comida chinesa, sem influências ocidentais", orgulha-se. "O fato de estarem em situação de clandestinidade, não significa que esses restaurantes não tenham condição de higiene apropriada. Muitos deles podem estar sem licença de funcionamento simplesmente por não terem dado andamento no pedido formal de licenciamento junto ao órgão responsável. Muitas vezes por motivos econômicos, ou seja, para evitar o pagamento de tributação", diz a inspetora da ASAE, Lourdes Gonçalves. "Ainda assim, o consumidor que escolhe frequentar os estabelecimentos sem as condições adequadas de higiene corre o risco de verificar por si próprio que o lugar carece dessas condições e está por sua conta em risco", completa. O cardápio tem pratos fartos com lulas, peixes, caranguejo, camarões e carne de porco. As sopas chinesas, preparadas na casa, são servidas em todas as refeições. Levam ingredientes como tofu, gengibre, macarrão de arroz e carne de porco, e também brotos de bambu e óleo de gergelim. Quanto mais comensais Tio recebe, mais variedade de pratos prepara e menor é o preço da refeição –o jantar custa entre 5 e 10 euros (R$ 17 a R$ 35). | comida |
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] | O francês Fabien Degoulet, de 31 anos, ganhou nesta semana, em Tours, cidade no centro da França, a segunda edição do concurso de melhor queijeiro do mundo. Degoulet disputou o prêmio, principalmente, com candidatos do Japão, Estados Unidos e Bélgica. Este ano, pela primeira vez, China e Israel estiveram presentes. O segundo lugar ficou com o também francês Guillaume Cardinet, e o terceiro, com a belga Nathalie Vanhaver. Os 12 candidatos foram submetidos a provas teóricas e, depois, fizeram testes práticos e artísticos, como combinar sabores, criar pratos, cortar e apresentar e, finalmente, elaborar uma tábua de queijos de um metro por um metro, com o tema "Da arte ao queijo". O concurso contou com um júri internacional de profissionais do setor. O francês Rodolphe Le Meunier, eleito melhor queijeiro internacional em 2007 e precursor desta disputa, e a japonesa Miyuki Murase, ganhadora da edição de 2013, apresentaram o evento. | comida |
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] | Milhares de pessoas vestidas de branco se reuniram nesta quinta-feira (11) nos jardins do Palais Royal de Paris para celebrar um "piquenique chique", um evento em que o lugar do encontro é secreto até o último minuto e os próprios comensais levam as mesas. Esta tradição tem 26 anos. No começo, os convidados combinavam a cor do traje para poder se reconhecer facilmente no parque escolhido pelos organizadores. O site dos organizadores "Diner en blanc" (jantar de branco) informou que "milhares de pessoas vestidas de branco, que se comportaram com o maior decoro, elegância e etiqueta, se reuniram em massa para um 'piquenique chique' em um espaço público". Depois da comida, os assistentes se asseguraram que tudo ficasse como estava antes do encontro e recolheram cuidadosamente todo o lixo. | comida |
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] | O fim de semana de 13 e 14 de junho terá dois eventos em São Paulo para quem gosta de gastronomia. No sábado (13), começa a segunda edição do Bazar Solidário do Adus (Instituto de Reintegração do Refugiado), que terá receitas das culinárias de países que têm refugiados no país –entre eles, Colômbia, Síria e Angola. Os recursos obtidos com a venda de roupas, sapatos, livros e DVDs no bazar serão revertidos para a manutenção da sede do instituto. Já o valor obtido com a venda dos pratos típicos será destinado às famílias envolvidas, que vão servir falafel, babaganouche, doces sírios e pratos da culinária angolana. No domingo (14), será possível provar a arepa, típica da Colômbia. O evento irá das 10h às 17h, nos dois dias. Também no domingo o Minhocão vai receber mais uma edição da Benê Food Des Arts, batizada de "Arraial da Benê". Food trucks e bikes participantes do evento apresentarão um cardápio junino, além de seus pratos tradicionais. O preço dos pratos vai de R$ 3 a R$ 18. No período da tarde, haverá uma quadrilha e a apresentação de dois projetos musicais: o MuntiSamBofônico –uma banda de um homem só, que mistura música e circo– e o grupo de percussionistas Embatucadores. O evento começa às 11h e vai até as 18h. A entrada é gratuita. 2º BAZAR SOLIDÁRIO DO ADUS Onde Casa da Cidade (r. Rodésia, 398, Vila Madalena) Quando 13 e 14 de junho, das 10h às 17h ARRAIAL DA BENÊ Onde Minhocão (Elevado Costa e Silva) Quando 14 de junho, das 11h às 18h Quanto os pratos vão custar de R$ 3 a R$ 18 | comida |
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] | O estrelado chef americano David Chang, dono e fundador da rede Momofuku e da revista "Lucky Peach", anunciou, na última quarta-feira (10), a abertura de mais uma casa do grupo. Baseada no conceito "fast casual", a lanchonete Fuku vai servir, no começo de suas operações, só um prato: um sanduíche de frango frito com picles e pasta de grão-de-bico fermentado. As coxas de frango são fritas depois de marinadas em purê de pimenta habanero, leite e especiarias. "Quero que pessoas que não comem pratos apimentados digam: 'Isso é muito apimentado, mas vou comer e pagar mesmo assim'", afirmou Chang. O sanduíche vai custar US$ 8 (R$ 25). Além dele, a Fuku só servirá batatas fritas e bebidas, além de uma salada. No futuro, outros lanches com frango devem ser acrescentados ao cardápio. A casa vai funcionar no número 163 da 1st Avenue, ponto onde até outubro de 2014 funcionava o Momofuku Ko –principal restaurante de Chang, com duas estrelas "Michelin". | comida |
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] | As cuias negras ornadas com motivos indígenas, tipicamente usadas para comer tacacá (caldo extraído da mandioca-brava com goma de tapioca, camarão seco e jambu) nos Estados amazônicos brasileiros, são, desde quinta-feira (11), um patrimônio cultural do país. O Iphan (Instituto do Patrimônio Histórico e Artístico Nacional), por meio de seu conselho consultivo do patrimônio cultural, aprovou o pedido de reconhecimento do modo de produção desses utensílios como patrimônio brasileiro –feito em 2010. Na decisão, o instituto reconheceu que a produção das cuias faz parte de "complexas dinâmicas de colonização e ocupação do espaço amazônico, e está diretamente relacionada ao aproveitamento de recursos naturais disponíveis no Baixo Amazonas". Na região, elas ajudam em atividades das mais diversas –de pegar água do rio e tomar banho a funções decorativas, além de usá-las como utensílio para alimentação. A TÉCNICA As cuias, em geral produzidas apenas por mulheres na região de Santarém e Monte Alegre (PA) –onde os moradores são conhecidos como pinta-cuias–, seguem uma técnica de mais de dois séculos. Os frutos da cuieira –árvore baixa e verdejante, que floresce o ano inteiro– são partidos ao meio e mergulhados em água, para amolecer. Antes de serem tingidos com cumatê, um pigmento natural típico da região, passam por uma raspagem (com escama de pirarucu e folhas de embaúba) e secagem ao sol. Depois de tingidas, as cuias ainda passam seis horas abafadas com um pano em um estrado formado por palha, areia, cinzas e urina humana (para extrair a amônia), para fixação do pigmento. Só então elas são lavadas e, depois, ornamentadas –técnica que surgiu só no século 20. Veja abaixo o vídeo usado no processo para incluir a produção de cuias na lista do patrimônio cultural brasileiro. Cuias Iphan | comida |
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] | O shopping Higienópolis, na região central de São Paulo, abre, nesta sexta-feira (12), uma loja temporária especializada em queijos franceses. O espaço, que ficará aberto por apenas dois dias, é uma iniciativa do Cniel (na sigla em português, Centro Nacional da Economia Leiteira), órgão da França para a promoção do setor, em parceria com o Emporium Dinis. Estarão à venda queijos clássicos do país, como brie e camembert, mas também outros menos conhecidos –entre eles, bleu d'Auvergne, coulommiers e Brillat-Savarin. Todos serão comercializados com descontos de até 30%. Além da loja pop up, o shopping vai mostrar a exposição Les Filles à Frommages, com fotos de Thomas Laisné de personalidades femininas posando com queijos. POP UP STORE DE QUEIJOS DA EUROPA Onde av. Higienópolis, 618, shopping Higienópolis, piso Veiga Filho Quando 12 e 13 de junho, das 10h às 22h | comida |
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] | O conceito de "home restaurant" (restaurante em casa, em tradução livre) está ganhando cada vez mais adeptos na Itália e começa a movimentar o mercado gastronômico do país. Inspirado no modelo norte-americano, o #socialeating consiste em receber pessoas desconhecidas para servir uma boa comida –seja requintada, regional ou estrangeira. Os participantes dos encontros acessam os cardápios on-line antes do jantar e optam por visitá-los na hora marcada pelos anfitriões. Redes sociais como o "People Cooks" e o "Gnammo" são facilitadores para unir interessados em provar a comida caseira em várias regiões do país. Para quem participa, essa é mais uma oportunidade de fazer novas amizades e conhecer vários tipos de culinária. | comida |
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] | Na máquina moderna, uma portinha se abre para a introdução da cápsula. Lá dentro, o aparelho lê o código de barras estampado na embalagem e entende se deve produzir com aquele xarope bem concentrado uma bebida quente, fria ou com gás. É basicamente assim que funciona o eletrodoméstico que promete fazer quase tudo no mundo das bebidas: sucos, néctares, refrigerantes, chás, frapês, drinques (sem álcool) e energéticos -o café, com sabor queimado, foi produzido e retirado da linha para aperfeiçoamento. A sommelière Alexandra Corvo, colunista de vinhos da Folha, provou bebidas produzidas pela "plataforma em cápsulas all-in-one" da Brastemp, chamada B.blend. O resultado: alguns sucos doces demais, outras bebidas refrescantes e receitas clássicas feitas de forma bastante prática (veja abaixo). Neste mês, a máquina chegou ao mercado e a empresa anunciou parceria com a Ambev. Por ora, estão produzindo cápsulas de Guaraná Antarctica, com previsão de venda até o fim do ano (sim, tem o mesmo sabor do refrigerante em lata, e, com mais gás, é até mais gostoso). Na internet já é possível comprar a máquina, entregue em todo o estado de São Paulo, por salgados R$ 3.499, além das cápsulas, que variam de R$ 1,49 (chá de camomila) a R$ 4,49 (energético). TESTE DO COPO Como se saíram as bebidas da máquina NÉCTAR DE MORANGO Muito doce. O sabor da fruta diminui com o passar do tempo. Cheiro de morango passado FRAPÊ DE PÊSSEGO Muito bem feito, com cremosidade e sem tanto açúcar. Sabor de fruta, sem muito gosto de leite REFRIGERANTE DE COLA Cheiro de plástico, um pouco queimado. Muito doce, nada refrescante. Com pouco gás LIMÃO GASEIFICADO Agradável, leve, delicado e refrescante. Uma bebida boa para a saída de atividade esportiva CHOCOLATE QUENTE É gostoso, mas não é muito cremoso. A qualidade do chocolate é boa. Falta temperatura CHÁ HERBAL Sabor de camomila, hortelã e erva cidreira. Boa qualidade ENERGÉTICO Menos enjoativo do que o do mercado. Refrescante e com cheiro que lembra suco de maçã NÉCTAR DE PÊSSEGO Doce. Bem feito, com sabor da fruta madura. Mas o cheiro é falso. Denso, não é refrescante REFRIGERANTE DE GUARANÁ* Sabor idêntico ao da lata, com menos aroma. Tem mais gás que o original, que parece aberto há muito tempo SUCO NATURAL DE MAÇÃ Doce, mas equilibrado por causa da acidez da maçã. Bons aromas da fruta B.blend QUANTO R$ 3.499 (valor inclui instalação por um técnico) ONDE loja.bblend.com.br (entrega em todo o estado de SP) *As bebidas foram provadas pela sommelière Alexandra Corvo, exceto o guaraná, testado pela repórter Magê Flores | comida |
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] | Uma nova máquina promete fazer, em casa, um conhecido refrigerante de guaraná. Com a missão de provar a bebida feita pela B.blend, da Brastemp, e comparar com a "original", esta repórter caminhou por São Paulo com uma latinha gelada na bolsa –e isso foi bem calculado. "GUARANÁ", estava anotado nas costas da minha mão esquerda durante todo o jantar da noite anterior. Eu não podia me esquecer de levar a bebida para casa. Lá, ficou na geladeira até as 8h30 de terça (quando foi para o freezer, por 15 minutinhos, para garantir a temperatura). Lata dentro da bolsa, seguimos pela marginal, passamos pela recepção e subimos o elevador, o guaraná e eu. Em uma sala de escritório, "Oi, tudo bem? Vim experimentar o guaraná em cápsula". A máquina chegou ao mercado neste mês e, a partir de cápsulas, produz chás, sucos, néctares, energético, drinques (sem álcool) e refrigerantes. Com o lançamento, a Brastemp anunciou uma parceria com a Ambev. Juntas, vão lançar diferentes rótulos da indústria em cápsulas. O primeiro será o Guaraná Antarctica, que estará a venda até o fim do ano. Cápsula dentro da máquina, aperta-se o "play". No copo começa a cair a água com gás, fazendo espuma. Aos poucos, um fiozinho caramelo do extrato bem concentrado de guaraná. Mais água com gás –o extrato não entra em contato com a máquina e, assim, a próxima bebida será sempre limpa, sem contaminação da anterior. Um copão de refrigerante. Primeiro gole, hum, parece mesmo "o guaraná". "Vocês se incomodam se eu abrir uma latinha que eu trouxe para comparar?", perguntei. Não. Gole em um copo, gole em outro. O sabor é exatamente o mesmo. Cheira um, cheira o outro. O da cápsula quase não tem aromas e o da lata é bem perfumado, cheiro doce do guaraná. Gole em um, gole em outro. O da cápsula tem um monte de bolhinhas de gás passeando pela boca, pequeninas. O de latinha parece ter sido aberto há um tempo. Veredicto: a bebida produzida pela máquina é mais refrescante do que a da latinha, agradou de verdade. E essa refrescância pode ajudar o cliente a aguentar o salgado preço do eletrodoméstico, difícil de descer. Se cada lata de refrigerante custa R$ 2 no supermercado seriam necessárias mais ou menos 1.750 delas para pagar uma máquina (e isso não inclui o futuro preço das cápsulas). As outras bebidas foram provadas pela sommelière Alexandra Corvo, colunista de vinhos de "Comida" e as impressões estão aqui. | comida |
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] | Alimentar-se apenas de carnes de animais criados em pasto, peixes de captura selvagem, ovos, nozes, sementes, tubérculos, frutas e hortaliças frescas é seguir uma "dieta paleo". Ingerindo apenas aquilo que se pode caçar, colher ou tirar da terra, come-se como no período paleolítico, na Idade da Pedra Lascada. Na Alemanha, um paulistano promove esta "alimentação dos homens das cavernas". Rodrigo Leite, 27, vive em Berlim e há seis anos segue a dieta paleolítica. "Houve uma melhora visível na minha qualidade de vida. Minha pele está mais saudável e eu durmo melhor", diz. Na dieta paleo, tudo o que é processado ou industrializado deve ser evitado. "Em casa, só cozinho alimentos frescos, comprados nas feiras de rua. Se vem embalado e precisa de corante ou conservante para durar, já é motivo para não comprar." Rodrigo e o marido, o belga Boris Leite-Poço, 31, administram o primeiro restaurante especializado em culinária paleolítica de Berlim. O Sauvage (em português, selvagem) Berlin, em Prenzlauer Berg. A casa, de refeições completas, ganhou uma segunda unidade. Em versão menor, o Sauvage, em Neukölln, funciona como uma versão alemã de lanchonete. Em um antigo bordel, montaram também a paleoteca, uma pequena escola. Entre os cursos oferecidos há "Emagrecendo de maneira sustentável" e "Everyday Paleo - cozinhando paleo rápido e barato". A dieta tem seguidores famosos como os atores Matthew McConaughey e Jessica Biel e a cantora Miley Cyrus. No Brasil, a atriz Cleo Pires adotou a alimentação primitiva, em 2014, para viver Katia, sua personagem na série "O Caçador". A visitantes de primeira viagem, Rodrigo recomenda um dos prato mais pedidos do restaurante: o steak sauvage, servido com farofa de macadâmias e molho gravy (feito com suco da carne) de vegetais da estação, vendido por 30 euros (R$ 100). A receita, segundo ele, agrada quem se aventura menos na comida. Fazem parte do cardápio também a salada de couve-flor servida com tutano de cordeiro, aromatizado com alecrim e pimenta negra (6,50 euros, R$ 23), e o boeuf bourguignon de javali com molho de ameixas e batata-doce grelhada (24 euros, R$ 84). Entre as opções de sobremesa há frutas secas, nozes, sementes de gergelim, girassol e abóbora (6,50 euros, R$ 23). Nos restaurantes, os cozinheiros precisam passar por um treinamento. "A parte mais difícil é a de panificação e sobremesas, já que pães e tortas são preparados com farinhas de raízes [como mandioca, batata-doce e inhame] e de nozes e sementes", diz Rodrigo Leite. PUBLICAÇÃO Em 2014, Rodrigo e Boris lançaram um livro sobre alimentação paleo. O "Das Paleo Prinzip" (O Princípio Paleo, em português), reúne 130 receitas e um plano de reeducação alimentar e esporte (à venda na Amazon. "O programa foi concebido para um período de quatro semanas e reúne alimentação paleo com exercícios de crossfit", conta Rodrigo. ENTENDA A DIETA PALEO Os alimentos se dividem em "superfoods" e "real foods". Superfoods, contém grande concentração de minerais, vitaminas, antioxidantes e ácidos ômega 3 e ao menos um item da lista deve ser consumido por dia: - Caldo do osso grelhado e tutano - Bebidas e alimentos fermentados naturalmente, não pasteurizados; ex.: kefir de leite (conjunto de lactobacilos e de leveduras) e o chá kombucha - Entranhas e miúdos de animais, como fígado, rins, coração, língua - Carne de animais selvagens, como veado, alce, javali, jacaré e aves de caça, como perdiz, ganso e faisão - Ovos de criação orgânica - Frutas vermelhas frescas, como amora, a jabuticaba, groselha, framboesa, pitanga, cereja e mirtilo - Ervas silvestres, como dente-de-leão, urtiga, agrião, rúcula selvagem, milefólio e artemísia Real foods, alimentos complementares que não devem ser processados industrialmente: - Frutas e legumes orgânicos - Peixes de captura selvagem - Gordura animal e óleos vegetais de oliva, coco, abacate ou abóbora, prensados a frio Alimentos não consumidos na dieta paleo - Arroz, batata e macarrão - Leguminosas como ervilha, feijão e soja - Óleos de soja, girassol e milho - Embutidos como peito de peru, presunto, mortadela e salsicha - Leite e derivados - Cereais como aveia, granola, milho, trigo e cevada Sauvage Berlin Prenzlauerberg Onde Winsstrasse 30, 10.405, Berlim; site sauvageberlin.com | comida |
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] | Aos pés da torre Eiffel, as abelhas passeiam entre pés de morango e pés de tomate: em pleno coração de Paris, chefs de cozinha seduzidos pela moda dos produtos locais se lançam na instalação de hortas em seus telhados. Ogier Pottiez, número dois na cozinha do restaurante Frame, ligado ao hotel Pullmann-Tour Eiffel no oeste de Paris, enche uma cesta de verduras, morangos e flores roxas de cebolinha com gosto de alho, que ele recolhe do jardim plantado no telhado de sua cozinha. "Nenhum transporte. A salada do dia muda diariamente de ingredientes em função da colheita. Tudo chega muito fresco e saboroso ao prato do cliente", explica o jovem cozinheiro de 30 anos. Em 600 metros quadrados, a mancha verde que forma este pomar-jardim dominado pela silhueta esguia da torre Eiffel é um refúgio fresco em meio ao mundo de concreto de três blocos de apartamentos que a cercam. Nesta minieconomia circular, mel também é produzido pelas abelhas de cinco colmeias. E ovos frescos para o brunch de domingo, com as galinhas bicando as cascas e os restos de comida do restaurante. Única desvantagem: apesar da sua relativa grande área em uma cidade densamente povoada como Paris (mais de 11.000 habitantes/km²), este jardim está longe de atender às necessidades vegetais do restaurante e continua a ser apenas uma vitrine de prestígio. MENOS POLUIÇÃO O chef Yannick Alleno foi um dos primeiros a se lançar na empreitada das hortas urbanas, instalando um pequeno jardim de ervas aromáticas no telhado de seu restaurante Le Terroir Parisien, no coração da capital francesa. Foi um jovem engenheiro de pegada sustentável, Nicolas Bel, quem criou este pequeno jardim, assim como o do hotel Pullmann-Tour Eiffel. Ele também toca outros projetos de vários tamanhos, que vão até 1.000 metros quadrados, e fez a aposta, com sua empresa start-up Topager, de transformar em tendência a agricultura urbana na França. Se Paris está em desvantagem em relação a Nova York ou Montreal no que diz respeito às áreas plantadas sobre os telhados, a cidade está prestes a dar um passo à frente em termos de "coerência ambiental", estima Nicolas Bel, que acaba de receber políticos de Nova York interessados em seus métodos. Qual é o segredo para obter retornos "comparáveis aos horticultores da área Paris sem usar produtos fitossanitários?" A resposta está em uma espécie de poção mágica para o jardim, cuja receita foi mantida em conjunto com o Instituto Nacional de Pesquisa Agrícola (INRA). Neste "substrato" mais rico e mais leve do que terra são reciclados resíduos urbanos, tais como aparas de relva e resíduos de madeira misturados com borra de café, micélio de cogumelos, alguns vermes - tudo isso acoplado a um composto caseiro para alimentar as plantas. Aos que se preocupam com uma possível influência da poluição nos produtos frescos cultivados em pleno centro da cidade, Nicolas Bel responde que o ozônio "não afeta os vegetais" em mais do que algumas partículas finas, que permanecem junto ao solo e não sobem em altitude. "Na cidade, é a poluição dos solos que poderia incomodar, e a passagem dos metais pesados nos legumes pelas raízes. As análises de nossos produtos cultivados nos telhados mostram que nós temos taxas muito fracas de poluição, da ordem de 10% e 30% das normas europeias", explicou. RENTABILIDADE Os métodos de trabalho são orgânicos. As plantas coabitam: manjericão e cravos lado a lado com tomates para repelir os pulgões. Sabão e estrume de urtiga são usados contra pragas. As espécies são alternadas ao longo das estações do ano para não esgotar o solo. Mas no quesito rentabilidade, ainda se está muito aquém. A este respeito, um dos mais novos jardins nos telhados de Paris, criado em março na escola de catering Ferrandi, tornou-se um laboratório. "A ideia é que um jardim no terraço não deva ser reservada para a alta gastronomia. Queremos mostrar que a amortização é possível apenas nas culturas", afirma Pablo Jacob, 25 anos, estudante e futuro chef. O jardim da Ferrandi é composto de caixas de madeira em um amplo terraço no 6º andar de cara para o céu. Um investimento de 7.500 euros (cerca de R$ 25 mil) em materiais. Mostrando uma erva rara, a "mertansia maritima", com gosto de ostra poderosamente iodado, Pablo calcula que, se ele fosse comprar no mercado atacadista de Rungis, onde os restaurantes se abastecem, seu custo por porção explodiria. "Para ser rentável, é preciso escolher espécies com forte valor agregado e consagrar um tempo a elas", sorri. "Minha ambição é que todas as escolas de hotelaria e de gastronomia da França, com mais espaço do que nós, digam 'vamos lá'", acredita o chef, diante de seus pés de melissa, sálvia e hissopo. O rapaz fez uma boa escola. Durante estágio com o chef três estrelas Michel Bras, no Laguiole em Aveyron (sul da França), ele descobriu "a panóplia de sabores" de flores, frutas e legumes frescos. A lógica "locavore" (consumo local) pode se desenvolver "quer se esteja no campo ou no coração de Paris", atesta Pablo Jacob. "Entre os futuros chefs, é um sucesso. Esta não é uma moda passageira, está aqui para ficar". | comida |
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] | A confeiteira Mereredith Browning, do Texas, nos Estados Unidos, acrescentou uma iguaria incomum aos doces que vende em sua loja: rosas de bacon. As flores comestíveis foram criadas há quatro anos como um presente de Meredith para seu pai. Ao mostrar o presente aos amigos no Facebook, ela começou a receber pedidos e transformou a ideia em negócio. As flores requerem um tipo específico de bacon e são apoiadas em talos de madeira. | comida |
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] | Na quinta-feira (11), o Sesc Carmo oferecerá a vivência "Comida do Dia a Dia: Berinjela". A equipe do Bar do Berinjela, na Vila Feijó, vai falar sobre as possibilidades de receitas com o fruto e ensinar o preparo de um escondidinho de berinjela. O prato será servido depois no restaurante da unidade. O carro-chefe do bar, aberto em 1964, é a berinjela à parmegiana, mas há outras opções no cardápio levando o ingrediente. Na receita que será ensinada há, além do ingrediente tema, mozarela, abobrinha italiana, tomate-seco e azeitona. Para participar é necessário comprar ingressos antecipadamente. Os valores variam entre R$ 5 e R$ 17. Sesc Carmo Apresenta Comida do Dia a Dia: Berinjela Quando quinta (11), das 18h30 às 20h. Onde Sesc Carmo (r. do Carmo, 147, Centro; tel. 11/3111-7000) | comida |
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] | Após alguns minutos de idas e vindas da cozinha, o chef Jefferson Rueda reúne sobre a mesa da sala dezenas de facas. Das velhas e pesadas, das leves e anatômicas, das finas e flexíveis e das bem miúdas. O colecionador tem cerca de 40 delas. "Não compro mais, ou a Janaína [Rueda, mulher dele] me mata." Uma boa faca é item básico para um cozinheiro. Cuidar dela é um ritual, segundo Jefferson. "Ele tem que saber afiar. Terceirizar o serviço não é o melhor em nenhum caso. O melhor é aprender." Para ele, logo com a primeira faca deve vir a primeira pedra. Os retângulos de material abrasivo (podem ser rochas de verdade) serão usados para afiá-la, no vaivém feito ao longo da superfície. O instrumento sem fio é perigoso, porque não obedece o dono e pode machucá-lo. "Quando afiado, ele corta qualquer alimento. É preciso e não exige força", explica o cuteleiro Flávio Duprat. Sushimen têm um padrão rigoroso para a manutenção do fio. Jun Sakamoto o aplica em suas duas facas. Ambas são para peixe e, à elas, poucos têm acesso. "Não é por ciumeira. A faca é minha e eu cuido dela porque essa é a minha obrigação. Além disso, evito que encostem para ninguém se machucar", diz. Os itens japoneses exigem cuidados diferentes: aos menos três pedras (de diferentes gramaturas) devem ser usadas. Isso porque, além de afiar, é importante polir o metal. "O sushi tem uma estética peculiar e muito detalhista. Gosto desse trabalho preciso, e a faca ocidental não tem isso", diz Jun. COMO CUIDAR DA FACA Não use para qualquer coisa que não seja cortar alimentos Nunca bata a sua faca Use sempre tábuas de corte –evite cortar sobre mármore e vidro Lave sempre a frio, com o lado amarelo da esponja e enxugue em seguida Barras magnéticas são ideias para guardar a faca, em lugar alto | comida |
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] | Depois de fazer um escondidinho de porco na churrasqueira e ser eliminada do programa de culinária "MasterChef", Lanny Keppk, 33, não desistiu da cozinha. A jogadora de vôlei adaptado, que nasceu sem a mão direita, inaugurou um canal de vídeos para ensinar pratos simples e mostrar que viver com uma mão só "não é nenhum bicho de sete cabeças". Enquanto preparava um ceviche –clique aqui para ver a receita, ela conversou com a jornalista da Folha Júlia Barbon, que também nasceu sem uma mão, sobre preconceito, aceitação e, claro, comida. Confira o vídeo acima. | comida |
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] | A rede americana KFC (Kentucky Fried Chicken) disse nesta segunda-feira (1º) que entrou com um processo contra três companhias chinesas, que espalharam falsas alegações sobre a comida da rede, inclusive que seu frango tinha oito patas, em seus perfis em redes sociais. O processo aberto pela KFC coincide com um movimento do governo de intensificar a campanha para limpar as redes sociais de rumores. Marqueteiros da internet foram condenados por postarem falsas informações sobre seus adversários ou por deletarem postagens importantes em uma tentativa de manipular sentimentos em nome de seus clientes. Em um anúncio postado em seu site chinês, a companhia disse que um dos rumores falsos mais conhecidos acusava a companhia de usar frangos geneticamente modificados com seis asas e oito pernas. A rede de fast food está exigindo 1,5 milhões de yuans (US$ 242 mil) e uma desculpa formal de cada uma das três companhias, que operam contas no popular aplicativo de celular WeChat. Além disso, está buscando um fim imediato às infrações. O tribunal do distrito de Shanghai Xuhui aceitou o caso, de acordo com uma porta-voz. A presidente-executiva da KFC na China, Qu Cuirong, disse em comunicado que era difícil para as companhias protegerem suas marcas contra boatos por conta das dificuldades de coletar evidências. "Mas os esforços feitos pelo governo nos anos recentes para purificar o ambiente on-line, assim como algumas interpretações jurídicas, nos deram confiança e armas", ela disse. As companhias processadas são duas empresas de tecnologia Shanxi Weilukuang e Taiyuan Zero Point, e uma de comunicação, Yingchenanzhi Success and Culture Communication, que ficam na cidade de Shenzhen. Telefonemas feitos para supostos números das companhias ou não foram atendidos ou não eram válidos. A KFC tem mais de 4.600 restaurantes na China. | comida |
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] | A lista com os 50 melhores restaurantes do mundo, organizada pela revista "Restaurant" e divulgada nesta segunda-feira (1º), em Londres, trouxe, pelo terceiro ano consecutivo, duas casas brasileiras: o D.O.M., de Alex Atala, e o Maní, de Helena Rizzo e Daniel Redondo. O espanhol El Celler de Can Roca retomou, depois de um ano na vice-liderança, o posto de melhor do mundo. Dos restaurantes brasileiros, apenas Daniel Redondo, pelo Maní, esteve na cerimônia, realizada no Guildhall. Atala não compareceu ao evento pelo segundo ano consecutivo. O D.O.M., casa latino-americana mais bem colocada na lista de 2014, foi do 7o lugar para o 9o neste ano –e perdeu o posto de melhor casa do continente para o peruano Central, dos chefs Virgilio Martinez e Pia Leon. No ano passado, Atala também havia sido laureado com o prêmio "Escolha dos Chefs", dado por seus colegas. Nesta segunda, antes da cerimônia, ele escreveu uma mensagem em foto no seu perfil no Instagram. "Não importa a posição. Consistência. Dez anos entre os 50 melhores restaurantes do mundo! Estamos muito felizes por alcançar o maior desafio: consistência", disse. A casa entrou na lista pela primeira vez em 2006, no 50o lugar; foi evoluindo ano a ano até chegar à quarta posição, em 2012. Desde então, caiu para sexto, sétimo e, agora, nono lugar. Já o Maní, 36o colocado em 2014, caiu cinco posições, ficando em 41o. A exemplo do que aconteceu com Atala, a casa também havia recebido, em 2014, um prêmio individual –de melhor chef mulher do mundo, para Helena Rizzo. O restaurante de Pinheiros debutou na lista geral em 2011, na 74a posição, e na lista dos 50 melhores em 2013 –no 46o posto. Também já figuraram na eleição da "Restaurant" o paulistano Fasano –59o colocado em 2011– e o carioca Roberta Sudbrack –71o em 2012 e 80o em 2013. Neste ano, nenhuma casa do país ficou entre o 51o e o 100o lugar. | comida |
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] | O restaurante El Celler de Can Roca, em Girona (Espanha), retornou, nesta segunda-feira (1o), ao posto de melhor restaurante do mundo na lista da revista britânica "Restaurant". É o segundo ano que a casa dos irmãos catalães Roca lidera o ranking –a primeira vez foi em 2013. Veja abaixo os principais momentos da trajetória do restaurante. 1986 Os irmãos Josep e Joan Roca inauguram o El Celler de Can Roca, ao lado da casa de seus pais, na cidade de Girona, na Espanha 1995 O restaurante ganha a primeira estrela no guia "Michelin" 1998 Jordi, o mais novo dos irmãos, passa a fazer parte da equipe do El Celler 2002 El Celler é premiado com a segunda estrela no guia "Michelin" 2006 A casa entra para a lista dos 50 melhores restaurantes do mundo, da revista inglesa "Restaurant", na 21ª posição 2007 O restaurante é transferido para uma casa maior, onde fica atualmente É o 11º melhor restaurante no prêmio da revista "Restaurant" 2008 Cai 15 posições no ranking da "Restaurant", ficando na 26º colocação 2009 El Celler é o quinto melhor restaurante do mundo, de acordo com a revista "Restaurant" O restaurante recebe a terceira estrela no guia "Michelin" 2010 O restaurante sobe uma posição no ranking da revista "Restaurant", tornando-se o quarto melhor do mundo Joan Roca recebe o título de doutor honoris causa pela Universidade de Girona 2011 El Celler chega ao segundo lugar na lista da "Restaurant" 2012 O restaurante mantém a segunda posição no ranking da "Restaurant" 2013 A casa destrona o dinamarquês Noma e lidera, pela primeira vez, a lista de 50 melhores restaurantes do mundo 2014 Lançamento do filme "O sonho - El Celler de Can Roca" (Espanha, 2014) sobre o desejo dos três irmãos em transformar sua comida, já conceitual, em uma experiência multissensorial, acompanhada de música (com toques de ópera) e imagens atordoantes O restaurante fica em segundo lugar na lista dos 50 melhores do mundo 2015 O chef Joan Roca anuncia seu comprometimento com a campanha global "Salve os oceanos: Alimente o mundo" | comida |
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] | O restaurante El Celler de Can Roca, de Girona (Espanha), conquistou pela segunda vez o primeiro lugar na lista dos 50 melhores restaurantes do mundo da revista britânica "Restaurant". A casa esteve no topo do ranking em 2013 e em segundo lugar em 2014 (atrás do dinamarquês Noma). O restaurante é administrado pelos irmãos Joan, Josep, e Jordi Roca. Joan é o chef, Josep, responsável pelos vinhos e pelo salão, e Jordi, pelas sobremesas. A cerimônia foi realizada nesta segunda-feira (1º), em Londres. O top 3 contou com as mesmas casas do ano passado: o italiano Osteria Francescana, de Massimo Bottura, foi o vice-campeão; o Noma, do chef René Redzepi, de Copenhague (Dinamarca), vencedor em 2014, caiu para o terceiro lugar. A lista contou com apenas dois brasileiros: os paulistanos D.O.M., de Alex Atala, e Maní, de Helena Rizzo e Daniel Redondo. O D.O.M. caiu do sétimo para o nono lugar e ainda perdeu o posto de melhor casa sul-americana para o peruano Central -vencedor da lista regional da América Latina no ano passado. O Maní também caiu cinco posições e ficou no 41º lugar. Veja as fotos da premiação Com uma cozinha espanhola moderna, que dá preferência a ingredientes catalães, o El Celler de Can Roca aposta na combinação de técnicas e em um certo humor na apresentação dos pratos. Para Joan Roca, as principais preocupações do restaurante são o atendimento aos clientes, a evolução tecnológica e a expressão emocional do trabalho dos três nos pratos. Entre as criações da casa estão sanduíche de pele crocante de porco ibérico e melão; cigala (cavaquinha da Noruega) cozida no vapor; e ostras com cava Agustí Torelló, compota de maçã, gengibre, abacaxi, limão confit e especiarias. Em 1995, o El Celler de Can Roca recebeu a primeira estrela Michelin. Em 2002, veio a segunda e, em 2009, a terceira. O restaurante foi fundado em 1986, por Joan e Josep. Ficava ao lado do Can Roca, bar e restaurante modesto dos pais dos irmãos catalães. O primeiro prato servido no El Celler foi a merluza com vinagrete de alho e "romero", fruto usado na culinária vasca. Em 1995, o estabelecimento se mudou para um espaço maior. Um ano depois, o caçula Jordi entrou no restaurante, também na cozinha, para cuidar das sobremesas. Os irmãos dizem que criaram um sistema de "democracia invertida" para evitar que brigas entre eles afetem o sucesso do restaurante. "Se há uma diferença de opinião e ficamos em dois contra um, a minoria vence", afirmou Joan ao jornal britânico "The Independent". A PREMIAÇÃO A lista de 50 melhores restaurantes do mundo é publicada, desde 2002, pela revista britânica especializada "Restaurant". Seis casas já lideraram o ranking: o primeiro vencedor foi o El Bulli, de Ferran Adrià, na Catalunha (Espanha); nos dois anos seguintes (2003 e 2004), o americano The French Laundry, do chef Thomas Keller, na Califórnia, levou o prêmio. Em 2005, a liderança voltou para a Europa, por meio do The Fat Duck, de Heston Blumenthal, em Bray (Inglaterra). O El Bulli dominou a premiação entre 2006 e 2009, perdendo a liderança, em 2010, para o Noma, de Copenhague (Dinamarca). A casa de René Redzepi foi superada, em 2013, pelo El Celler de Can Roca, de Girona (Espanha) e voltou ao topo do ranking em 2014. Os escolhidos são indicados por um júri formado por 1.000 pessoas, entre críticos, chefs, restaurateurs e "foodies" –ao menos um terço do corpo de jurados deve ser renovado a cada ano. Os jurados indicam sete restaurantes, por ordem de preferência. Ao menos três dos locais têm de estar fora da região do jurado, que precisa ter comido, nos últimos 18 meses, em todos os restaurantes que indicou. Qualquer casa do mundo pode ser indicada –desde que tenha ficado aberta durante o período de votação e não planeje fechar as portas nas semanas seguintes à divulgação do ranking. Além da lista –que engloba 100 restaurantes–, a "Restaurant" premia o conjunto da obra de um chef, a melhor chef mulher e o melhor chef de sobremesas do mundo, um restaurante promissor, um que represente a escolha dos chefs e o restaurante mais sustentável da lista. O ranking também serve de base para destacar as melhores casas de cada continente, o restaurante novo na lista mais bem colocado e o que galgou mais posições. | comida |
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] | O site Occupy 50 Best, que protesta contra a premiação dos 50 melhores restaurantes do mundo, organizada pela revista britânica "Restaurant", saiu do ar temporariamente na sexta-feira (29). Encabeçado pela blogueira Marie Eatsider, a documentarista Hind Meddeb e a RP Zoé Reyners–, o protesto afirma que o ranking "mistura parcialidade (países parceiros, particularmente Peru e Singapura, estão excessivamente representados), autopromoção (alguns chefs ranqueados também são membros do júri) e machismo (na lista de 2014 só havia uma mulher entre os 50)". Segundo o jornal "The New York Times", o site foi tirado do ar porque a organização do 50 Best reclamou do uso dos logotipos do prêmio, sem permissão. O servidor OVH desativou a página por algumas horas, até que as imagens fossem trocadas. No site, entre os nomes de apoiadores do protesto, está o nome de Paola Carosella, do restaurante Arturito, em São Paulo. Por meio de sua assessoria de imprensa, a chef afirmou que não assinou qualquer documento. As 368 assinaturas incluem chefs da França, como os estrelados Thierry Marx, Joel Robuchon e Georges Blanc. A organização do 50 Best se pronunciou sobre o protesto. Ela disse "refutar veementemente as alegações do manifesto. Em nota enviada à Folha, listou alguns "fatos sobre a criação da lista". Eles reforçam que os especialistas que participam da votação são "independentes e se baseiam na qualidade das experiências oferecidas nos restaurantes". "A organização não dita como os membros da academia devem votar -eles simplesmente votam por suas sete melhores experiências pessoais em restaurantes, nos últimos 18 meses. Não há listas ou critérios predeterminados." Além disso, afirmam que chefs e restaurateurs membros do júri não podem votar nas casas com as quais tenham algum interesse comercial. A nota também ressalta que, neste ano, a votação foi submetida à auditoria da empresa Deloitte. | comida |
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] | O chef de um restaurante de Curitiba se revoltou com a crítica feita por uma cliente, no site TripAdvisor, e publicou um vídeo de 12 minutos no YouTube respondendo ao post. A cliente afirma que o restaurante "não é francês, nem bistrô". Diz também que a entrada tem "pão velho, azeitona pobre e amendoim amolecido". O texto, publicado no domingo (24), critica o atendimento, o menu e a carta de vinhos. E conclui: "Uma experiência horrorosa! Taças de vidro quebradas, garfos tortos. O preço é alto para uma comida sem qualidade". No vídeo, o francês David Eddy Louis, do Bistrot do David, comenta ironicamente cada item citado segurando páginas impressas com o texto. "Hoje é um dia de desabafo, mas eu quero que vocês entendam: os nossos estabelecimentos tentam agradar todo o mundo, mas é como um casamento. Alguns casam com uns e outros com outros porque não combinam. Se você não gosta já na entrada, sai. Você não vai gostar." O chef se exalta algumas vezes, chama a autora da crítica de "cliente bosta" e finaliza dizendo: "Olha para mim, sabe com quem está falando? Com o chef David e você não pode chegar ao restaurante, tirar foto, dizer que o atendimento é uma bosta, que a comida é uma bosta, etc., porque a gente percebe que você estava no lugar errado e mexeu com a pessoa errada. Com muito respeito, nunca mais passe o portão desse restaurante. Senão, eu vou saber como te receber também. Um abraço. Um beijo". O restaurante conta com 290 avaliações no TripAdvisor –a maioria (165) o considera excelente. | comida |
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] | O cardápio do bar Aconchego Carioca vai ganhar duas receitas de pastéis: de bobó de camarão (R$ 19) e de costela com vinagrete de banana da terra (R$ 10). Neste sábado, a chef Katia Barbosa estará em uma barraca montada na frente do bar, nos Jardins, preparando as receitas. A barraca ficará aberta das 12h às 16h. Além dos pastéis, haverá chope Saint Beer, de Forquilhinha (SC), por R$ 9 (300 ml) ACONCHEGO CARIOCA Onde al. Jaú, 1372, Jardins; tel 11/3062-8262 | comida |
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] | A organização do 50 Best, que premia os 50 melhores restaurantes do mundo, se manifestou sobre o movimento Occupy 50 Best. O abaixo-assinado criado pela blogueira Marie Eatsider, a documentarista Hind Meddeb e a rp Zoé Reyners, pede que os patrocinadores retirem seu apoio ao prêmio. O manifesto tornou-se público pouco antes da cerimônia de premiação, que acontecerá na segunda-feira (1º), em Londres. A organização disse "refutar veementemente as alegações do manifesto". O texto no site occupy50best.com afirma que o ranking "mistura parcialidade (países parceiros, particularmente Peru e Singapura, estão excessivamente representados), autopromoção (alguns chefs ranqueados também são membros do júri) e machismo (na lista de 2014 só havia uma mulher entre os 50)". Os organizadores do 50 Best listaram, em nota enviada à Folha, alguns "fatos sobre a criação da lista". Eles reforçam que os especialistas que participam da votação são "independentes e se baseiam na qualidade das experiências oferecidas nos restaurantes". "A organização não dita como os membros da academia devem votar –eles simplesmente votam por suas sete melhores experiências pessoais em restaurantes, nos últimos 18 meses. Não há listas ou critérios predeterminados." Além disso, afirmam que chefs e restaurateurs membros do júri não podem votar nas casas com as quais tenham algum interesse comercial. A nota também ressalta que, neste ano, a votação foi submetida à auditoria da empresa Deloitte. Nesta quinta (28), o manifesto contava com 294 assinaturas. Entre as assinaturas colhidas estão as de alguns importantes chefs da França, como os estrelados Thierry Marx, Joel Robuchon e Georges Blanc. | comida |
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] | Lanny Keppk, 33, pode não ter convencido os jurados do programa "MasterChef" com seu escondidinho de porco nesta terça (26), mas acabou ganhando um elogio inusitado dos jurados. "Para qualquer pessoa que venha falar para mim que não consegue, vou dar seu telefone, tá bom?", disse a argentina Paola Carossella à cozinheira amadora, que nasceu sem a mão direita. Lanny foi eliminada no segundo episódio da série. "Como não gosto de porco, decidi fazer um prato em que sentia confiança, mas me estripei", lamenta ela. "Fiquei muito triste, mas para mim o melhor foi ter saído com um elogio desses." Ela é formada em administração empresarial, mas há quatro anos se dedica ao vôlei adaptado. "Ir para o 'MasterChef' foi um pouco enfiar o pé na cara da sociedade", explica. Abaixo, leia a entrevista da cozinheira à Folha. * Folha - Você acha que não ter uma mão influenciou na decisão dos jurados em algum momento? Lanny Keppk - Não. Em nenhum momento me fiz de coitada. Não me senti menos e eles não me trataram assim. Sempre formei na minha cabeça que sou igual a todo mundo. A única coisa que as pessoas têm é uma mão a mais do que eu, mas isso é indiferente. Eu acho que sofro muito mais preconceito com as pessoas que não me conhecem, que acham que eu sou uma coitada, do que com as que querem me conhecer, e me veem como um exemplo. Você já sofreu preconceito? Já, várias vezes. Às vezes são coisas que você deixa passar e às vezes são coisas que incomodam. As pessoas me olham e falam: "Nossa, que menina bonita, mas olha, ela não tem uma mão". Você vê as pessoas se cutucando e comentando. Tem gente que tem até vergonha. Às vezes um homem me olha e me acha linda, aí ele vê que não tenho uma mão e não tem a coragem de falar: "Vou ficar com essa menina porque ela tem uma essência maravilhosa". O mundo é preconceituoso. Mas hoje já aprendi a lidar com isso. Mas em alguns casos as pessoas não a tratam melhor por causa disso? Sim, algumas pessoas, mas aí eu sinto que é um tratamento por piedade, por dó, e isso me incomoda tanto que de vez em quando sou até um pouco ríspida, o que é raro. Sinto um pouco de nojo disso. Tudo bem, é um sentimento que vem que a pessoa também não tem culpa disso, mas se a pessoa está vendo que eu vivo superbem, para que ter dó? Você sente necessidade de provar algo para alguém? Já senti muito isso, antes eu precisava mostrar para as pessoas que conseguia. Ir para o "MasterChef" foi um pouco enfiar o pé na cara da sociedade. Eu me escondi muito tempo por trás da minha deficiência. Antes só saía com os meus amigos e amava o inverno, porque podia colocar a mão no bolso. Dois dias antes de o programa ir ao ar, eu estava em prantos porque eu não sabia se as pessoas iam receber bem ou mal isso. Mas na hora as redes sociais começaram a bombar, comecei a ver que a coisa foi para um lado muito positivo. Você abriu um canal de vídeos gastronômicos recentemente. Sim, o "1 Mão na Cozinha". O foco é a comida, mas tenho vontade também de gravar o meu dia todo: eu acordo, tomo banho, vou para o treino, dirijo. Eu consigo administrar várias coisas que muita gente não consegue, e eu quero levar isso de exemplo para ver se o povo acorda para a vida. Eu quero mostrar para as pessoas que não é um bicho de sete cabeças. Eu acho que cheguei longe demais e não vou desistir não, no ano que vem vou tentar entrar no programa de novo. Meu sonho é abrir um bistrô. Quero estudar, quero fazer uma faculdade de gastronomia. No que você acha que errou ontem? Na hora que eles falaram que seria com porco, eu não sabia nem qual parte da carne pegar. Como não gosto de porco, decidi fazer um prato em que sentia confiança, para não entregar um negócio cru ou passado para eles comerem, mas me estripei. No desespero você não tem muito o que pensar. Eu provei o prato o tempo todo, e estava bem temperado, bem executado. Mas tinha tudo do porco: carré, joelho, bochecha, língua, e eu vou lá e faço um escondidinho. Vai ensinar a receita do escondidinho também? Escondidinho eu vou fazer, só não vou fazer de porco. | comida |
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] | Em mais uma edição do almoço Caminhos do Rio Paraíba, o C5 (Centro de Cultura Culinária Câmara Cascudo) vai levar sete chefs e a equipe Atá (dos restaurantes D.O.M. e Dalva e Dito, do chef Alex Atala) para a fazenda Coruputuba, no Vale do Paraíba, com o intuito de promover a região. Na segunda edição do encontro, o homenageado será o chef Ocílio Ferraz (Restaurante do Ocílio), entusiasta da cozinha tropeira. Nomes como Helena Rizzo (Maní), Rodrigo Oliveira (Mocotó), Gabriel Broide (Mina) e Thalita Barros (Conceição Discos) farão um almoço ao ar livre usando os ingredientes locais na fazenda localizada em Pindamonhangaba (a 156 km de SP). Serão montadas barracas dos cozinheiros e produtores, nas quais visitantes poderão comprar pratos e produtos. O ingresso para o evento custa R$ 310 e inclui comidas, bebidas e transporte saindo de São Paulo –há apenas 180 vagas. A venda de convites começou nesta terça-feira (26) pelo site foodpass.com.br CAMINHOS DO RIO PARAÍBA Quando 13/6, das 12h às 17h Quanto R$ 310 (com transporte) Mais informações [email protected] | comida |
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] | Camarão, quiabo, avocado e rabanete são alguns dos ingredientes do ceviche mamacha, receita criada pelo chef Dagoberto Torres especialmente para o Domingo Cevichero, que acontece no domingo (31), em Pinheiros. Acompanhado de pastéis, o prato leva ainda molho de aji panca boliviano, um tipo de pimenta, e huacatay, uma erva aromática peruana. O evento vai comemorar os cinco anos do restaurante Suri, em Pinheiros (zona oeste), que serve diferentes versões da receita típica de países latino-americanos como Peru e Chile. Estarão ainda no cardápio o ceviche guayas –que leva tilápia, lula, polvo e alho frito– e o ceviche macarena, com peixe branco, camarão, polvo, coentro, pepino e manga. O evento, na calçada do restaurante, também terá música e drinques latinos, como pisco, mojito e margarita, servidos em copos descartáveis. DOMINGO CEVICHERO Onde Suri Ceviche Bar (r. Mateus Grou, 488, Pinheiros) Quando 31 de maio, das 18h às 21h Mais suri.com.br | comida |
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] | O restaurante Mangiare, na Vila Leopoldina, está fazendo pizzas com massas de fermentação natural. Os oito sabores estão disponíveis no cardápio do jantar, em versões individuais (quatro pedaços) ou médias (seis pedaços). São opções, por exemplo, a de rúcula, queijo pecorino e presunto cru (R$ 38 ou R$ 52) e a de abobrinha assada em forno a lenha e alho (R$ 35 ou R$ 49). Além das pizzas, há um calzone de mozarela de búfala, cogumelos e presunto (R$ 48). As massas, leves e crocantes, são fermentadas por 24 horas. Mangiare av. Imperatriz Leopoldina, 681, Vila Leopoldina; tel. (11) 3034-5074 | comida |
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] | A quarta edição do Mercado Gourmet, feira de gastronomia que reúne chefs de vários segmentos, será realizada neste domingo (24) no Clube Hebraica, em São Paulo, a partis das 12h. A entrada é gratuita. O evento terá pratos de R$ 5 a R$ 25 e contará com a presença de chefs como Leo Botto (do grupo Chez), que fará um nhoque na chapa com assado de angus (R$ 20), e Dagoberto Torres (do colombiano Maíz e do Suri), que vai servir arepas –discos de massa de milho recheados, tradicional de países latinos. Haverá ainda opções de hambúrguer do Vinil Burguer (R$ 20) e sanduíche de falafel (R$ 15) do foodtruck Falafeando. A sobremesa ficará por conta da tenda da S.O.S Cupcakes. Veja lista completa dos pratos que serão servidos e seus preços (pagamento somente em dinheiro): Bar Buenos Aires Empanadas (R$ 7,50), empanaditas para viagem (R$ 25 com 10 unidades), alfajor (R$ 5) e refrigerante (R$ 5) Foodtruck Falafeando Sanduíche e porção de falafel ou kibe (R$ 10 a R$ 15), batatas rústicas (R$ 10), coalhada seca (R$ 10) e homus (R$ 10) Irene Uehara Gastrô Agnolotti de queijo ao pomodoro e manjericão (R$ 20), penne ao pomodoro e manjericão (R$ 15), batata smiles (R$ 7,50), almôndegas ao pomodoro (R$ 7,50), Idish Mom Soup (R$ 7,50), sucos (R$ 5) e pavê de chocolate com Sonho de Valsa (R$ 5) Leo Botto (Chez MIS e Chez Oscar) Nhoque na chapa com assado de angus (R$ 20) e arroz da fazenda com creme de cabra (R$ 15) Los Mendozitos Vinhos ( de R$ 12,50 a R$ 17,50) Maiz (chef Dagoberto Torres) Arepa de carne louca (R$ 15), mandioca rösti com queijo brie (R$ 15) e chá gelado de hibisco (R$ 5) S.O.S. Cupcakes Cup-churros (R$ 7,50), cupcake de cenoura (R$ 2,50 a R$ 7,50), trufas de chocolate (R$ 7,50 c/ seis) e bolos recheados (R$ 7,50 a fatia) Varenikes da Eli Varenikes com ragu de cordeiro (R$ 25) Viking Street Food Sanduíche de salmão assado no fogo à lenha (R$ 25) e salmão assado no fogo à lenha com salada de batatas e azeite de ervas (R$ 25) Vinil Burger Hambúrguer - servido com seis acompanhamentos à escolha: cebola caramelizada, queijo, cebola desidratada, alface, tomate, picles e bacon (R$ 20) Tasty Expresso (R$ 5 a 7,50), café com leite (R$ 5 a R$ 10), capuccino e chocolate quente (R$ 7,50 a R$ 10), brownie (R$ 7,50) e pão de mel (R$ 5). Mercado Gourmet Quando 24 de maio (domingo), das 12h00 às 17h00 Endereço Hebraica São Paulo (quadra), r. Ibiapinópolis, 762; tel: 11/3818-8888 | comida |
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] | O Parigi Bistrot pouco tem dos clássicos bistrôs da França –a simplicidade, os preços baixos, a cozinha trivial familiar. O mais novo empreendimento do restaurateur Rogério Fasano segue o alto padrão do grupo. Ocupa um salão requintado no topo do shopping Cidade Jardim (com público sóbrio, alinhado), tem preços altos (pratos alcançam R$ 99; sobremesas, R$ 29) e uma cozinha tradicional francesa com apuro técnico e apresentação sofisticada. Pode-se começar pelo ovo cozido em baixa temperatura, de gema mole, envolvido por um creme branco de boa liga com toque sutil de parmesão. Nele são acomodadas as pequeninas lentilhas francesas "du Puy", que, preparadas "al dente", enriquecem a textura do prato (R$ 40). O ovo, aqui temperado apenas com flor-de-sal e pimenta-do-reino moída na hora, aparece como protagonista de outras entradas, num capítulo à parte. Outra boa experiência é o rosbife de filé-mignon cortado em fatias grossas, devidamente rosado no centro, com gostoso sabor de ervas (R$ 40). Embalado em uma crosta de mostarda em grãos, é servido na companhia de molho à base de mostarda, óleo e vinagre, com consistência bem cremosa, à semelhança de uma maionese. PÉ NA COZINHA Por trás desse apuro técnico e de uma sensibilidade notável para tratar das apresentações dos pratos, está o chef Wagner Resende, 36, já familiarizado com a cozinha francesa. Passou nove anos ao lado do mestre Erick Jacquin e outros três no comando do tradicional Chef Rouge, entre outras paradas. Por enquanto, ele divide atenção em duas missões. Nos bastidores, está a criar pratos com elementos como foie gras, sempre concentrado nos clássicos. Ao mesmo tempo, executa com esmero e precisão o cardápio criado com os palpites de Rogério Fasano, que ainda traz camarões ao champanhe (R$ 99), graúdos, firmes, acomodados sobre um arroz umedecido com molho suave que combina creme de leite, caldo de peixe e espumante –este último sobressai. Resende dá seu toque ao steak tartare (R$ 65), menos condimentado que suas receitas anteriores. Cortada na ponta da faca, a carne fresca traz um adocicado do ketchup e certa picância da mostarda de Dijon. Nesse contexto, ficam meio deslocadas as três massas –caso do ravióli recheado com mozarela de búfala ao molho de tomate (R$ 69). Para arrematar, vale o mil-folhas de massa amanteigada, que desmancha facilmente, com crème pâtissier, leve e aerado (R$ 29). O salão projetado pelo arquiteto Isay Weinfeld, que já fez outras casas do grupo, tem lateral de vidro, e dá vista para a cidade -nada ali reforça a ideia de que se está em um shopping. Idem para a agradável área ao ar livre: mesas protegidas por ombrelones acomodam a espera –a todo o vapor– e servem de cenário para as refeições. Serviço ainda meio desajeitado no almoço –garçons pouco familiarizados com o cardápio e em ritmo lento– e mais afinado no jantar. PARIGI BISTROT ONDE: SHOPPING CIDADE JARDIM - AV. MAGALHÃES DE CASTRO, 12.000; TEL. (11) 3198-9440 QUANDO: SEG. A QUI., 12H ÀS 15H E 19H ÀS 23H; SEX. E SÁB., 12H À 0H; DOM., 12H ÀS 22H | comida |
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] | O dinamarquês Noma, restaurante considerado o melhor do mundo quatro vezes pela revista inglesa "Restaurant", foi aberto em 2003 e nasceu da visão dos chefs Claus Mayer e René Redzepi de valorizar a biodiversidade nórdica e as técnicas de preparo regionais e de respeitar os produtos e as temporadas impostos pela natureza. A receita foi exportada –e para um destino nada óbvio. Desde 2013, a Bolívia é o novo eldorado de Claus Meyer. E, no caso do projeto no país vizinho, também um empenho em impactar a sociedade com o fortalecimento de sua cultura gastronômica e capacitação de jovens talentos. O restaurante Gustu é a mais forte e vistosa ponta do tripé do "Melting Pot Bolívia", projeto gastronômico e social fundado por Meyer na Bolívia. O nome significa "sabor" em aymara, uma das línguas indígenas oficiais do Estado plurinacional. Em menos de dois anos, a casa foi eleita pela mesma "Restaurant" a 32ª melhor da América Latina. Uma conquista com sabor bem boliviano: todos os ingredientes usados têm origem no país e isso vale também para as bebidas (caso dos vinhos de Tarija e da bolivianíssima aguardente de uva chamada singani), assim como equipamentos do salão (exceto louça e prataria). A língua oficial da equipe também é o castelhano. Mesmo para estrangeiros como a chef dinamarquesa radicada em La Paz, Kamilla Seidler, responsável por implantar a filosofia de Claus no Gustu. "Eu não tenho a menor ideia de como a comida boliviana deve ser! Nem eu, nem Kamilla, sabemos como cozinhar os produtos que temos aqui", diz o chef dinamarquês. "O que sabemos é que temos que comprar do fazendeiro, ter biodiversidade, respeitar as temporadas. Mas ela vai se criar, se desenvolver em sua própria linguagem." Nos menus-degustação, servidos em três versões, a entrada pode ter uma fresquíssima truta do lago Titicaca defumada e, nos pratos principais, é possível provar carnes exóticas. A de alpaca, uma espécie de parente sul-americano dos camelos, é servida como charque desfiado, com palmito fresco e gema de ovo, e a de lhama, em medalhões com raiz de cactos. Entre as sobremesas, há sorvete de chirimoya, conhecida no Brasil como fruta-do-conde. "MELTING POT SOCIAL" Das paredes do Gustu para fora existem dois grandes projetos de fundo social tocados por profissionais de gestão e professores de gastronomia, com foco em formação e treinamento de cozinheiros –as outras duas pontas do tripé. O mais abrangente é o Manq'a, um centro de formação de profissionais de cozinha que capta jovens de baixa renda entre 16 e 28 anos. Por enquanto, há uma unidade (de 14 previstas até o final de 2016) em El Alto, carente cidade satélite de La Paz. O objetivo é dar oportunidades –"queremos empoderar a comunidade e criar a cultura do empreendedorismo", afirma o coordenador Gilberto Bejarano– e há integração com o Gustu: os cinco melhores de cada turma ganham estágio no restaurante. O terceiro vértice do projeto é o Suma Phayata, também voltado à capacitação profissional. Ainda recém-nascido, elegeu as cinco melhores comidas de rua de La Paz. São exemplos os populares sanduíches de chola da Plaza de las Cholas, com pão tipo sarnita, macio e arredondado, pernil e molho ají, e o choripan de D. Elvira, do Mercado Lanza, com pão tipo marraqueta, que lembra o nosso pão francês, linguiça artesanal e molhos caseiros. Comandados por mulheres, os postos passaram por avaliação de especialistas que sugeriram melhorias de métodos e técnicas das tradicionalíssimas "comidas callejeras paceñas", as comidas de rua de La Paz. "Faço isso para melhorar a sociedade. Acho que fiz isso na minha e agora quero fazer isso por uma comunidade mais pobre. E, por causa da biodiversidade e do potencial da cultura gastronômica, a Bolívia é o lugar certo para isso", conclui Meyer. GLOSSÁRIO GRÃOS: assim como no Brasil, arroz e trigo estão bem presentes na cozinha boliviana, mas o grão mais popular por lá é o milho: há cerca de 1.500 tipos de "maíces" no país. A Bolívia também é conhecida por ser a terra da quinoa. TUBÉRCULOS: se o Brasil é o país da mandioca, a Bolívia (em dobradinha com o Peru) é o da batata. Já foram catalogadas 1.555 espécies distintas de "papas" e tubérculos, como a roxa "la oca" e a adocicada yacon. PEIXES: sem acesso ao mar, na Bolívia se consomem quase que exclusivamente peixes de rio. O mais popular deles é a truta, abundante no lago Titicaca, além dos amazônicos surubim e sábalo, conhecido no Brasil como curimbatá. CARNES: o mapa da carne na Bolívia é semelhante ao do Brasil: frango, bovina e suína são, nessa ordem, as mais consumidas –e com curva ascendente de vendas. Na alta gastronomia, o país tem duas joias: lhamas e alpacas. VINHO: do principal departamento vinícola da Bolívia, Tarija, a 2.000 metros de altura, saem vinhos de uvas merlot e petit verdot. Mas a bebida de uva mais típica é a Singani, aguardente feita a partir da moscatel. | comida |
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] | O segundo encontro do projeto Comer é Mais –que começou em março deste ano e teve como primeiro tema a mandioca– apresentará a relação entre alimento e cultura em um bate-papo com o jornalista e curador Celso Fioravante, neste sábado (23) no Sesc Belenzinho. O evento pretende discutir as relações entre cultura e alimentação a partir da produção de artistas desde o século 16 até hoje, começando com as ilustrações de banquetes antropofágicos de Hans Staden –que foi capturado pela tribo tupinambá no século 16– chegando a artistas contemporâneos como Vik Muniz, Adriana Varejão e Tunga. A retirada de senhas para o evento começara às 10h30, trinta minutos antes do início do bate-papo, marcado para às 11h. A primeira edição do Comer é Mais se estendeu durante todo o ano de 2014 com encontros para discutir o mundo da comida para além do ato de comer. BATE-PAPO COMIDA PELA ARTE - COM CELSO FIORAVANTE Quando neste sábado (23), das 11h às 13h Onde Sesc Belenzinho, r. Padre Adelino, 1000; tel: 11/ 2076-9700 Mais www.sescsp.org.br/belenzinho | comida |
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] | O pato confitado, cozido na própria gordura, recheia os canelones feitos com massa fresca. Cobertos por molho da ave, são salpicados com brotos de beterraba e pedacinhos do tubérculo em conserva. Para finalizar, um escalope de foie gras, que passou pela frigideira bem quente, é sobreposto à massa. A receita do chef Renato Carioni, do restaurante Così, no bairro paulistano de Santa Cecília, é a favorita do prefeito Fernando Haddad (PT), entre os pratos que levam a iguaria. O apreço de Haddad por foie gras é conhecido por cozinheiros da cidade. O francês Erick Jacquin e o chef Wagner Resende (do Parigi Bistrot) contam já ter servido a ele pratos com o fígado "gordo" de patos ou gansos. Na próxima semana deve chegar às mãos do político o projeto de lei 537/2013, de autoria do vereador Laércio Benko (PHS), que proíbe a produção e a venda do ingrediente na cidade. Sua feitura envolve a alimentação forçada das aves, por meio de um tubo de silicone introduzido na garganta. Na terça-feira (12), o projeto foi aprovado por unanimidade, em votação simbólica, na Câmara Municipal. "A sanção ou veto podem ter um cardápio grande de justificativas. Temos que verificar se eventualmente a matéria é de lei municipal", disse Haddad, que não quis revelar sua posição. Questionado se considerava o tema relevante, ele foi categórico ao dizer que não. A Folha apurou que ele não deve sancionar o projeto. Segundo o advogado Ives Gandra Martins, a lei é inconstitucional porque a questão não deveria ser tratada na legislação da cidade. "A Constituição prevê que municípios decidam sobre temas locais, e o comércio e a produção de alimentos não são de peculiar interesse local." INGREDIENTE POLÊMICO Cozinheiros e especialistas contrários ao projeto definem como restrita a discussão sobre o foie gras. "Se vereadores estão preocupados com os maus tratos a animais, deveriam olhar para os nossos frigoríficos. Existe muito mais sofrimento em abatedouros de todo o país", afirma André Freitas, professor do Instituto de Biologia da Unicamp. Na quinta-feira (14) a Associação dos Profissionais de Cozinha do Brasil deu início a uma petição pública contra o veto ao ingrediente. Até a noite desta sexta-feira (15), havia 28 assinaturas. "O foie gras está ligado à gastronomia mundial. Se o chef quer usar e o cliente quer comer, eles devem poder decidir isso. Quando há proibição o que acontece é o mercado negro", disse Laurent Suaudeau, diretor do conselho da APC. Para o produtor artesanal de foie gras Pierre Reichart, que cria patos na região de Itu, os criadores da lei desconhecem o processo. "Se ele está gostoso é porque o tratamento do pato foi perfeito. Senão, o animal teria fígado e carne ruins." Defensores dos direitos dos animais, no entanto, dizem que no foie gras há requintes de crueldade. "Ele não é um ingrediente. É o órgão hipertrofiado de um animal maltratado e morto para atender a um luxo desnecessário, diz Guilherme Carvalho, secretário-executivo da Sociedade Vegetariana Brasileira. O vereador Laércio Benko afirma ter se baseado no sofrimento do animal para criar o projeto. "Ele tem um simbolismo importante para combater os maus tratos contra animais", disse. "É algo provocativo. A discussão que ele está gerando é mais importante do que o projeto em si." | comida |
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] | A tarefa que se apresentava seria uma maratona de dois dias de degustação de vinhos com uma miríade de rótulos confusos: natural, orgânico, prática orgânica e biodinâmica. Mas para Jean Bardet, chef com duas estrelas Michelin, não havia nenhuma dúvida sobre a qualidade dessas garrafas. "Hoje você vê esses jovens com piercings no nariz, que não entendem nada de vinho, dizendo 'se é orgânico, é melhor'. Isso é loucura. Todo vinho dá prazer e felicidade. Ou não. É tudo uma questão de paladar", disse Bardet, especialista em vinhos do Vale do Loire. Bardet disse que não é pró-pesticida -afinal de contas, seu pomar e sua horta aqui estão livres dessas substâncias. Ele é apenas contra a má produção de vinho. O uso de pesticidas se tornou um grande problema entre os viticultores e bebedores franceses. Muitos veem a repentina enxurrada de novos vinhos que proclamam sua virtude ambiental como um modismo naturalista. Outros condenam a resistência aos pesticidas, que entendem como uma ameaça em potencial a outros vinhos da mesma região. Muitos europeus acreditam que a França usa pesticidas em excesso em todos os tipos de produtos. O país é o terceiro maior consumidor de defensores agrícolas do mundo, depois dos Estados Unidos e do Japão. Um problema para os produtores de vinho é que não existe uma definição nem em regulamento do que constitui um vinho "puro" ou "natural" na França. Um vinho definido como orgânico pela União Europeia é produzido a partir de uvas cultivadas organicamente, mas que podem ser manipuladas quimicamente, com limitações do uso de sulfitos no processo de produção da bebida. Muitos produtores dizem que seu vinho é natural, o que exige algo mais: nada pode ser adicionado ou removido durante a produção. Alguns produtores de vinhos naturais adicionam uma pequena quantidade de sulfitos no momento de engarrafar; outros apenas engarrafam suco de uva fermentado, chamam-o de vinho e torcem para que seja bebível. Métodos biodinâmicos envolvem uma abordagem holística que trata o solo como um organismo. A primeira degustação este ano foi a Renaissance, em Angers, que reuniu produtores que apresentaram vinhos orgânicos, sem pesticidas, mas não necessariamente sem sulfito. A estrela improvável foi Emmanuel Giboulot, proprietário de um vinhedo na região de Côte d'Or. Giboulot produz uvas orgânicas e biodinâmicas. Em dezembro, ele ganhou uma longa batalha jurídica para não cumprir a ordem do governo de pulverizar um pesticida chamado Pyrevert em seu vinhedo. Isso havia sido determinado para combater um inseto que espalha a doença bacteriana "flavescence dorée" ou "podridão dourada". Ele disse que "vivemos um paradoxo. A indústria do vinho luta por pesticidas ao mesmo tempo que alega que o bom vinho francês pode somente vir do terroir localizado no país", essa combinação indescritível de solo, clima, geografia e conexão emocional com a terra. No final, a "flavescence dorée" apareceu em apenas três aldeias em toda a Côte d'Or. Em Les Anonymes, as degustações foram inflexíveis. Lá, muitos rótulos eram feitos à mão; grande parte das centenas de vinhos oferecidos era de baixa qualidade, como vinho feito no quintal. "Faço suco de uva fermentado e engarrafado, ponto final", disse Lilian Bauchet, que produz um Gamay de Beaujolais. Em Saumur, a cerca de 40 quilômetros de distância, quase 200 produtores de vinho de 15 países estavam reunidos em um labirinto de caves para o La Dive Bouteille, maior exposição mundial de vinho natural. "A cada ano isso fica mais emocionante. Alguns dizem que é uma moda passageira, mas quem começa a beber esses vinhos nunca volta aos tradicionais", disse Camille Rivière, importadora de vinhos naturais de Nova York, enquanto passeava pela feira. | comida |
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] | Foi aprovado na Câmara Municipal de São Paulo, nesta terça-feira (12), o veto ao foies gras. O projeto de lei 537/2013, do vereador Laércio Benko (PHS), proíbe a produção e a venda do ingrediente. Ele seguirá agora para sanção do prefeito Fernando Haddad (PT). "Foie gras", em francês, significa "fígado gorduroso". Ele é obtido a partir da alimentação forçada de gansos e patos, por uma técnica conhecida como "gavage". Na justificativa do projeto, o vereador Benko afirma que a iguaria é um "simples aperitivo das classes abastadas", que "não traz nenhum benefício à saúde humana" e que sua produção submete gansos a um grande sofrimento. Chefs defendem que o texto é inconstitucional porque limita a liberdade de escolha dos cidadãos e a liberdade de produção e de venda. O projeto prevê, ainda, o veto à produção e venda de roupas feitas com pele de animais –e multas de R$ 5.000 para os estabelecimentos que descumprirem a proibição. | comida |
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] | O francês radicado nos Estados Unidos Daniel Boulud foi anunciado na manhã desta terça-feira (12) como vencedor do prêmio de conjunto da obra concedido pela revista britânica "Restaurant". O título é parte das premiações da lista 50 Best, de 50 melhores restaurantes do mundo. Segundo William Drew, editor do ranking, Boulud é um dos chefs mais completos da França e dos EUA, de "talento extraordinário". "Sua cozinha clássica evoluiu para incorporar técnicas modernas e sabores internacionais", disse, no comunicado que anunciou o prêmio. Nascido em Lyon, Boulud trabalhou com grandes nomes da cozinha francesa, como Roger Vergé e Michel Guérard, antes de se mudar para os EUA. Em Nova York, cozinhou nos restaurantes dos hotéis The Westbury e Plaza Athenée antes de abrir, em 1993, a própria casa, que leva seu nome, em Upper East Side, na ilha de Manhattan. Hoje, ele é dono de um grupo que tem casas em outras cidades americanas, como Las Vegas, Boston e Miami, e fora dos EUA –no Canadá, em Londres (Inglaterra) e em Cingapura. Segundo a publicação britânica, a cozinha do restaurante Daniel –40º lugar na lista no ano passado– "tem fortes raízes na história da gastronomia francesa", ao mesmo tempo em que abarca "uma apresentação mais moderna, elegante e sazonal". A carta de vinhos do lugar é, segundo a revista, uma das "mais impressionantes" de Nova York, com mais de 2.000 rótulos internacionais. "Sempre procurei criar uma experiência para os comensais que seja memorável", disse Boulud. "O desafio –e pelo qual eu deveria ser julgado– é a criatividade e o nível de detalhe e serviço em cada um dos meus restaurantes. Isso, e guiar novos chefs, é o trabalho da minha vida, e do que tenho mais orgulho". A cerimônia de entrega dos prêmios do 50 Best será em 1º de junho, em Londres. A "Restaurant" já havia anunciado a vencedora do prêmio de melhor chef mulher do mundo –a francesa Hélène Darroze. Esta é a 10ª vez que a "Restaurant" premia o conjunto da obra de um chef. Antes de Boulud, foram celebrados nomes como os franceses Paul Bocuse, Alain Ducasse e Joël Robuchon, o espanhol Juan Mari Arzak, os americanos Thomas Keller e Alice Waters e, no ano passado, o inglês Fergus Henderson. | comida |
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] | Começa na sexta-feira (15) a sexta edição do Burger Fest. Casas de São Paulo e Campinas vão incluir receitas inéditas em seus cardápios. Serão cerca de 150 novos sanduíches. Entram no festival casas como Esquina Mocotó, La Reina, Capim Santo, Empório Sagarana, Obá Restaurante, Feed Food e Forneria San Paolo. O festival vai até o dia 31/5. Nesta edição acontecerá também o "Burger Weekend", uma virada gastronômica do hambúrguer, das 12h de sábado (16) às 18h de domingo (17). Durante o período, barraquinhas vão vender receitas na feirinha gastronômica Jardim das Perdizes. Participam, por exemplo, 12 Burger Bistrot, Born to Grill e Vinil Burger. Onze barraquinhas vão vender cervejas artesanais. Na Feirinha Gastronômica especial Burger Fest, no Butantan Food Park, haverá aulas de hambúrguer, com o passo a passo da receita. O evento acontecerá no dia 27/5. O ramen burger, que tem "pães" feitos com miojo, será vendido no It Burger, no Tatuapé, durante o festival por R$ 33. Veja aqui a receita. Burger Fest no Brasil Quando de 15/5 a 31/5 Informações facebook.com/BurgerFestOficial e burgerfest.com.br Butantan Food Park Onde r. Agostinho Cantu, Butantã Jardim das Perdizes Onde av. Marquês de São Vicente, 2.301, Jardim das Perdizes It Burger Onde r. Fernandes Pinheiro, 51, Tatuapé | comida |
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] | Será lançado nesta terça-feira (12) o livro com as receitas favoritas da cozinheira Elisa Fernandes, vencedora do primeiro MasterChef brasileiro. Elisa reuniu 50 receitas, divididas em cinco níveis de dificuldade –de ajudante à MasterChef–, com opções saudáveis. Entre elas, há tomate confit, porco atolado e filé-mignon de porco com purê de abóbora e farofa de pão. Confira a receita de nhoque de ricota com molho de tomate rústico, do nível "subchef". O livro também tem uma tabela de conversão e preparos básicos como os de caldo de vegetais e caldo de carnes. Em São Paulo, o lançamento do livro acontecerá nesta terça, às 18h30, na Livraria da Vila (al. Lorena, 1.731, Jardim Paulista). AS RECEITAS DE ELISA FERNANDES AUTORA Elisa Fernandes EDITORA Planeta QUANTO R$ 39,90 (176 págs.) | comida |
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] | Para quem não dispensa um bom prato baiano, na próxima sexta-feira (15) Fátima e Miri de Castro e Mainha do Tabuleiro do Acarajé vão ensinar a fazer acarajé em uma aula no Na Cozinha, escola de culinária e restaurante. Na aula os participantes –que receberão uma apostila de receitas– vão aprender a preparar a massa, fazer os recheios e fritar. A aula, que custa R$ 200 por pessoa, vai das 19h30 às 22h30. AULA DE ACARAJÉ Quando 15 de maio, das 19h30 às 22h30 Onde Na Cozinha, r. Haddock Lobo, 955; tel. 11/3063-5374 Quanto R$ 200 - depósito bancário antecipado | comida |
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] | Neste sábado, o Centro Cultural São Paulo (CCSP) receberá o Slow Movie, um evento gratuito e ao ar livre com a proposta de desacelerar para assistir filmes, shows e comer. Essa edição será realizada nos jardins suspensos do centro cultural e contará com a presença das food bikes do Pudim a Gosto, Dicasa, Brigaderô e Los Mendonzitos. O filme "Tudo sobre Minha Mãe" do diretor espanhol Pedro Almodóvar também será exibido e haverá ainda shows da banda de folk e bluegrass O Bardo e o Banjo e da dupla Aurora. O evento começa às 16h, horário que já tem início a oficina de silk em camisetas. Se chover, o evento será cancelado. SLOW MOVIE Quando neste sábado (9) às 16h Onde Jardins suspensos do Centro Cultural São Paulo Endereço r. Vergueiro, 1.000 Mais https://www.facebook.com/slowmovie | comida |
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] | O chef espanhol Andoni Aduriz, do Mugaritz, eleito o sexto restaurante melhor do mundo pela inglesa "Restaurant", esteve em São Paulo nesta quarta-feira (6) e deu uma palestra gratuita sobre criatividade e vanguarda na universidade Anhembi Morumbi. Em entrevista, depois do evento, Aduriz quebrou paradigmas da cozinha. O chef afirma que o gosto não deve ser o principal elemento da comida já que, além de ser algo reproduzível pela indústria, é um conceito limitante. Aduriz falou também sobre sua busca por conhecimento e sobre seu processo de criação de receitas. * Folha - O que é gastronomia? Quanto é experiência e quanto é comida? Andoni Aduriz - A gastronomia tem uma dimensão de efeitos sociais, econômicos, vínculo com a saúde, muitos aspectos. Um dia, em 2008, Antonio Damásio [neurocientista que estuda as emoções humanas] nos visitou e disse algo tremendo. "O que vocês fazem é muito bom. Vocês são muito criativos. Mas o que é verdadeiramente importante no seu trabalho é que ele faz as pessoas mais criativas." A gastronomia, no fundo, é um caminho de coisas, pode ser um caminho para se alimentar, para alimentar suas capacidades –e isso é o que me interessa. As capacidades das pessoas. Por que usar outras linguagens? Saíram coisas no Mugaritz que beiram a performance. Tento incluir o observador na experiência para que as pessoas levem algo muito além de comida. Uma dúvida, um conhecimento. Nós destilamos conhecimento. Fizemos milhares de viagens, visitamos milhares de mercados. Eu me enveneno na rua pelos clientes, para que não tenham que fazê-lo. Como é o processo de criação? Nós fechamos todos os anos por quatro meses para criar. Trabalhamos produtos, técnicas, metáforas e tudo o que podemos, para destilar e ter algo. É como remover toneladas de areia para encontrar uma pedrinha. Faço criatividade e tive muita sorte. Esse tempo eu compro, são 500 mil euros, mas sou feliz. O que te move? Metade dos meu clientes vem de fora da Espanha. Se alguém vem de Londres, da África do Sul, dos Emirados Árabes, se alguém percorre meio mundo para comer, o que você dará tem que ser extraordinário. Qual é o conceito de extraordinário? O que é para mim, certamente não é para você. O problema da gastronomia é que o conceito de gosto é muito discutível. O conceito do que é bom é ambíguo, quando eu enfrento isso só tenho uma ferramenta: a sinceridade. Eu me mostro tal qual sou. Você pode gostar ou não. Como você lida com as cópias e a 'propriedade da criação'? Estou pensando para frente, não posso me preocupar se estão me copiando ou não. Aliás, é uma honra. O que eu digo te interessa? O que mais posso pedir? Outras pessoas se inspirarem no seu trabalho é um privilégio. Dói quando te copiam e não te reconhecem, mas isso depende de como está o seu ego. Há um momento-chave que é poder contar o que você faz. Explicar por que e para que você faz as coisas. Quem copia não sabe de onde vêm ou os porquês. Qual a dimensão da cozinha? Sabe por que eu sou cozinheiro? Minha mãe tem 86 anos. A diferença entre mim e meus irmãos é de 15 anos. Ela me teve mais velha. Quando eu tinha 14 anos, viu que eu era mau aluno e não tinha vocação para nada. Ela, que teve uma infância difícil, pensou: "O objetivo número um é que esse menino não morra de fome". Me colocou na escola de cozinha porque essa seria a única maneira de eu seguir comendo quando ela morresse. Por respeito a meus pais, eu estudava, mas nada me interessava. Os professores não transmitem paixão, valores. Cozinhar tem uma dimensão impressionante e está tudo por fazer. Eu quero aprender. Tenho vontade de fazer coisas diferentes, não quero ser um chef com uma pança, a roupa suja e de mal com a vida. Você teve um problema com a escola, não? Repeti um ano da escola de cozinha. Não te digo mais nada. Como é sua busca por conhecimento? Perguntando. Para mim, a ingenuidade é um luxo, é incrível. Odeio discursos populistas. Gosto das perguntas difíceis, de me fazer essas perguntas. Estamos perguntando há dez anos e há dez anos somos vistos como bichos estranhos. Se provoco, não é para incomodar. Se te digo que o gosto não é o principal, é para debater. O gosto não é o principal? No mundo, há quatro vezes mais produtos com sabor de morango do que morangos. O gosto, entendendo que ele é gosto mais aroma, pode ser reproduzido pela indústria sem problemas, e você não percebe. A textura, a indústria não replica. A textura de um peixe, de uma verdura, isso a indústria não pode fazer. Eu venho de uma cultura com perfil de gosto muito baixo. Meus produtos, que construíram meu gosto de base, são texturas, como a merluza, que é um pouco doce, mas é textura. O que é o mais importante do caviar? O gosto ou a textura? Por que as bolas maiores são mais caras? A textura é definitiva. Entre gosto e textura? Há uma coisa boa na gastronomia: não há que escolher. Ali estão todos os sentidos. Não acho que o sentido principal é o gosto. Me rebelo. Como conceito, ele é limitante. Como você encara algo novo? A partir do seu gosto, e você rechaça. Se você se aproxima das coisas a partir do seu gosto, você limita tudo. O que você pensa dos prêmios e das estrelas? São créditos de confiança. Oportunidades para errar. As pessoas pressupõem que somos bons e isso nos permite assumir mais riscos. É um privilégio. | comida |
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] | A Fundação James Beard, uma das mais respeitadas entidades da gastronomia americana, realizou, na noite da última segunda-feira (4), a cerimônia de entrega de seu prêmio anual. O prêmio contempla chefs, restaurantes, designers, arquitetos, livros e jornalistas da área. Apesar de ter sido entregue fora de Nova York pela primeira vez em 25 anos –a festa foi em Chicago–, foram justamente os chefs e restaurateurs da cidade que se destacaram. Os prêmios de melhor chef, novo restaurante, padeiro e pâtissier, por exemplo, foram para profissionais e casas nova-iorquinas. Veja abaixo a lista com os vencedores das principais categorias; a lista completa, em inglês, pode ser vista aqui. * PRÊMIO 'QUEM É QUEM' CONJUNTO DA OBRA | comida |
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] | Muito se engana quem acha que o homem é movido por dinheiro, status e cerveja. Só uma mulher é capaz de fazer o indivíduo cometer verdadeiras atrocidades –a ponto de o maior dos preguiçosos acordar de madrugada para aulas de meditação, mecânicos depilarem as costas e carnívoros devorarem jacas, por exemplo. O último desses casos aconteceu comigo. O cenário é o Tubaína Bar, em São Paulo, e os olhos vegetarianos da minha namorada brilhavam ao encontrar entre as entradas do cardápio uma porção de coxinhas recheadas dessa fruta. Para ela, a jaca representaria a vingança contra uma década de opressão e determinismo de toda uma estirpe de quitutes e salgadinhos de frango. Para mim, a situação pedia a maturidade de quem tem oito anos e vai fazer exame de sangue: era preciso fechar os olhos e aguentar a dor, na esperança de ganhar um doce da enfermeira mais tarde. Eu deveria saber, após anos de experiência, que a dor sempre supera o prêmio. A coxinha de jaca até tem o mesmos formato, casquinha crocante e massa pegajosa do salgado convencional e conservador, o que é ótimo. O problema, óbvio, está no recheio. Vamos confessar: jaca não é legal. Não conheço ninguém, nem uma grávida vegana, que acorde no meio da madrugada com uma vontade insana de comer essa fruta. É Impossível colocá-la na boca e não sentir o odor de quando está apodrecendo no chão. Fora que, na coxinha, há uma tentativa bisonha de fazê-la ficar parecida com frango. E qualquer recheio de jaca travestida de galinha já começa com o pé esquerdo na briga pelo paladar –mesmo bem temperadinha, como era o caso, confesso. Acredito que, se tivessem escrito no cardápio "bolinha frita e pontuda recheado com jaca", em vez de coxinha, a experiência teria sido menos traumática. Seria apenas mais um dos milhares de aperitivos duvidosos, como os bolinhos de damasco e os pastéis de Belém do Habib's. Além disso, falar de coxinha é entrar na seara das instituições nacionais. Assim como não fazemos pães de queijo de uva passa nem brigadeiros de cenoura, não deveríamos fritar coxinhas de jaca. Era para ser cláusula pétrea da constituição gastronômica brasileira. | comida |
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] | Enorme e desajeitada, a jaca é a maior entre todas as frutas comestíveis –as grandes podem passar dos 40 quilos. Cresce quase o ano todo e só é mais rara entre os meses de junho e agosto. Nativa da Ásia (Tailândia, Indonésia, Índia, Filipinas e Malásia), foi trazida ao Brasil pelos portugueses e se adaptou facilmente ao nosso clima quente e úmido. Mas, verdade seja dita, nunca foi muito popular por aqui. O preconceito tem seus porquês. Além do perfume extremamente forte, que incomoda muita gente, sua polpa solta um visgo que não sai da pele nem por decreto -para manuseá-la, é preciso untar mãos e utensílios com óleo ou azeite. Aos poucos, porém, a história desse patinho feio começa a mudar. Muito nutritiva e energética, a jaca está virando protagonista em dietas veganas, nas quais entra como substituta da carne -a prática foi tema de reportagem do jornal britânico "The Guardian" no mês passado. A textura da fruta, quando cozida, colabora para o disfarce -a polpa se separa em fios que lembram bastante as fibras do frango cozido ou da carne assada. Em São Paulo, o chef Felipe Grecco, do bar Tubaína, lança mão da jaca para rechear coxinhas e rissoles que compõem uma porção de petiscos veganos (R$ 19,90). "Um pouco antes de amadurecer, a jaca é um ingrediente neutro, que pega bem qualquer tempero. Depois de refogá-la, a cozinho no caldo de legumes com um toque de curry. Fica fácil de desfiar." A variedade dura, de sabor e aroma mais suaves e textura firme, se presta melhor ao uso em receitas salgadas. É o tipo preferido da chef Ana Luiza Trajano, do restaurante Brasil a Gosto -em seu novo menu capixaba, um purê de jaca e mandioca vai à mesa como guarnição da rabada. "O segredo é não deixar que ela roube a cena", ensina a chef, que se confessa louca pela fruta desde menina. "Como uma inteira se me deixarem. Adoro guardar os gomos no freezer e comê-los que nem sorvete." A chef Roberta Sudbrack, que elege um ingrediente para estudar a cada ano, debruçou-se sobre a jaca em 2014. Ela e a equipe do restaurante carioca que leva seu nome, recém-estrelado pelo guia "Michelin" Brasil, desenvolveram preparos fora do comum. Entraram no menu um chá de jaca fermentada, servido com carne de sol, e um picles de jaca verde, oferecido com ovas e geleia de caqui. "Fomos em busca da delicadeza da fruta. Foi sensacional demonstrar essas possibilidades de um ingrediente tão diferente", diz a chef. A seção das sobremesas, contudo, continua sendo o território da jaca por excelência. Nela, domina a variedade mole, bem mais doce e perfumada -mas os cozinheiros já arriscam muito além da tradicional compota. A chef Morena Leite, do Capim Santo, serve sorvete de jaca como guarnição dos minichurros. Ela também publicou uma receita de crème brûlée de jaca em seu novo livro, "Mistura Morena" (editora Senac). Criada em Trancoso, na Bahia, Morena diz não abrir mão da fruta que crescia em seu quintal e tem sabor de infância. E não se dobra ao preconceito do público, tanto que desenvolveu técnicas para driblá-lo. "Sirvo em eventos sem dizer do que se trata. As pessoas amam e pedem mais." * NÃO VALE POR UM BIFINHO A jaca é mesmo uma fruta saudável, rica em fibras, minerais e vitaminas A, B2 e B5. Mas não o suficiente para substituir a carne. Segundo Paulo Prati, da consultoria ChefNutri, a fruta gigante é pobre em vitamina B12 e proteínas, justamente os nutrientes mais necessários para os adeptos da dieta vegana. ONDE COMER Tubaína Onde r. Haddock Lobo, 74, Cerqueira César; tel. (11) 3129-4930 Capim Santo Onde al. Min. Rocha Azevedo, 471, Cerqueira César; tel. (11) 3089-9500 Brasil a Gosto Onde r. Prof. Azevedo Amaral, 70, Jardim Paulista; tel. (11) 3086-3565 | comida |
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] | O Dia das Mães está chegando. Se sua mãe é cozinheira –ou adora comer bem– um presente gastronômico com certeza é boa pedida (neste caso, esqueça aquela história de que dar panela pega mal). O "Comida" selecionou dez sugestões de presentes, com preços e propostas variadas, para os filhos baterem o martelo ou se inspirarem. São ingredientes, utensílios e | comida |
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] | Começa nesta quarta (6) o Festival de Sopas da Ceagesp, em São Paulo Será vendida no evento, realizado até 30 de agosto, a famosa sopa de cebola gratinada. Pagando R$ 32,90 é possível servir-se à vontade de cinco caldos. O festival acontece de quarta a domingo, a partir das 18h. Às quartas, quintas e domingos, o serviço acaba à 0h. Às sextas e sábados, vai até às 2h. O cardápio muda semanalmente. Nesta primeira semana, serão servidas as sopas de cebola, de couve-flor e roquefort, de rabada, de galinha com legumes e a verde detox. Confira receita da sopa de cebola gratinada da Ceagesp. Festival de Sopas Ceagesp Quando de 6/5 a 30/8 Horário qua., qui. e dom., das 18h à 0h; sex. e sáb., das 18h às 2h Quanto R$ 32,90, por pessoa Onde av. Dr. Gastão Vidigal, altura do 1.946, portão 4,Vila Leopoldina; festivaldesopasceagesp.com.br | comida |
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] | O clube de assinaturas Have a Nice Beer, que entrega mensalmente dois rótulos de cerveja a 10 mil associados, passou a ser nesta sexta (1º) WBeer.com.br. A empresa vem sendo gerida pela Wine.com.br desde 2013, quando foi comprada por ela, mas agora o nome "Have a Nice Beer" deixa de ser usado –e ficam alinhados os processos de logística, tecnologia, administração e marketing. Quem já era sócio continua recebendo sua seleção de cervejas, com 2, 4 ou 6 garrafas –o kit com 8 foi eliminado. Dias depois da mudança de nome, a empresa anunciou o acréscimo de taxas fixas de entrega. Para endereços no Sul e Sudeste o valor é de R$ 4. No Norte, Nordeste e Centro-Oeste, de R$ 9. O "beer hunter", Diego Cartier, "caçador de cervejas" da Have a Nice Beer segue selecionando os rótulos que são trazidos para o Brasil, para integrar as assinaturas ou ser vendidos no site –atualmente, são cerca de 300 rótulos no portfólio. "Uma pessoa que se associa ao clube de cervejas quer saber mais sobre o assunto. Tento proporcionar essa experiência, passear por escolas e estilos. A partir daí, ela define o que realmente gosta. Sempre fiz buscas em regiões inexploradas, com produtores desconhecidos e a mudança acrescentou estrutura e organização a isso", diz. "Podemos trazer estilos esquecidos no país de origem, sobre os quais nunca se ouviu falar no Brasil." Além disso, ao escolher os rótulos, Cartier tem que considerar o orçamento, já que as cervejas fazem partes de kits que custam R$ 40 (2 garrafas), R$ 72 (4 garrafas) ou R$ 102 (6 garrafas). O especialista já selecionou cerca de 15 cervejarias que vão passar a ter produtos importados pela empresa, a venda na loja virtual. São exemplos, Birra del Borgo (Itália), To Øl (Dinamarca), Cantillon e Struise (Bélgica). Para o lançamento, a empresa criou um rótulo em parceria com a cervejaria dinamarquesa To Øl, com raspas de casca de laranja e manga. Ele será vendida no site, por R$ 23,50. | comida |
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] | Na próxima quarta-feira (6), a universidade Anhembi Morumbi vai receber o premiado chef espanhol Andoni Aduriz, do restaurante Muritz –premiado com duas estrelas Michelin e eleito sexto melhor restaurante do mundo no 50 Best, ranking da revista Restaurant. O tema da palestra será criatividade e inovação. Todos os anos, o Mugaritz fica fechado por quatro meses –atualmente, a casa não está em funcionamento– e, durante o período, o chef dedica-se à criatividade. Em novembro do ano passado, Aduriz deu início ao "The Candy Project", um estudo que tem como objetivo esmiuçar consumo, costumes, sabores, tipos e funções das balas em todo o mundo. A palestra será gratuita e as inscrições podem ser feitas pelo site: anhem.bi/andoniaduriz. "CRIATIVIDADE E VANGUARDA", COM ANDONI ADURIZ QUANDO quarta-feira (6), às 11h ONDE Auditório Vila Olímpia, r. Casa do Ator, 275 MAIS anhem.bi/andoniaduriz | comida |
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] | A mestre-sorveteira paulistana Marcia Garbin inaugurou sua primeira loja física nesta quinta-feira (30) no novo shopping Cidade São Paulo, aberto na av. Paulista. A loja da Gelato Boutique tem dez lugares e serve apenas sorvetes e café –diferentemente da casa na r. Pamplona, cuja abertura está prevista para daqui a um mês e que terá sobremesas italianas, além dos sorvetes. O cardápio traz sabores como doce de leite com cumaru, maracujá e manga, menta com stracciatella e café lime –este último rendeu prêmios à sorveteira em um festival de sorvetes na Itália, em 2013. Os preços variam entre R$ 8 e R$ 14. A loja ficará em frente ao cinema, no quarto andar do shopping. GELATO BOUTIQUE ONDE Shopping Cidade São Paulo, av. Paulista, 1.230, Bela Vista; facebook.com/GelatoBoutique | comida |
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] | O ator e diretor Paulo Tiefenthaler passa a publicar, a partir desta edição, uma coluna em "Comida". Na coluna, Tiefenthaler escreverá uma vez por mês sobre os bastidores e os perrengues da cozinha de um amador, em tom de crônica, e dará dicas para cozinheiros de primeira viagem. O novo colunista ficou conhecido por seu papel no programa "Larica Total", do Canal Brasil. Confira o texto aqui. | comida |
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] | Um tanto do crescimento contínuo que se vê na gastronomia brasileira é motivado por Helena Rizzo. Eleita a melhor chef do mundo pela revista inglesa "Restaurant" em 2014, ela acaba de assumir a presidência do C5, o Centro de Cultura Culinária Câmara Cascudo -associação que congrega acadêmicos e cozinheiros interessados em difundir a cozinha do país. Com o posto, Helena passa a conjugar, com mais equilíbrio, o trabalho na cozinha -no qual valoriza o puro e o simples, sem perder de vista a capacidade de quebrar a monotonia- e o trabalho longe do fogão, quando se concentra nas pesquisas. "Esse projeto é a intersecção do academicismo com a prática, é a oportunidade de termos encontros, de trocar." É também nessa interação que a chef se inspira. "A gente acaba descobrindo ingredientes que tu nem sabe de onde vêm, como se utiliza, qual é a história. Esse aprofundamento reflete muito no meu trabalho na cozinha", diz a gaúcha à Folha. Foi em um encontro promovido pela associação em 2013 que Helena conheceu o lírio-do-brejo, uma flor de raiz "superaromática, que lembra gengibre, cúrcuma", e o levou para a cozinha. Surgiu dali uma infusão das pétalas que aromatiza o creme do mil-folhas. "Esse contato com a cadeia a gente vê em restaurantes novos como o Tuju [SP] e o Lasai [RJ], que foram profundamente fundamentados nisso." EBULIÇÃO Neste ano, Helena não só descobriu que está grávida -e teve de driblar crises de enjoo na cozinha-, como abriu duas casas com os sócios: a Padoca do Maní e o restaurante Manioca. Há ainda outras duas novidades à vista: um livro a ser lançado pela editora DBA até julho, sobre o Maní e suas receitas, e um novo menu da casa-mãe, que acaba de ser agraciada com uma estrela "Michelin". Pode adiantar alguma coisa? "Estou trabalhando com abóbora e com peixes curados e defumados..." A cronista Nina Horta um dia escreveu sobre a rapidez em que se apagam as "obras fulgurantes" da chef, ao sumirem pela "garganta profunda dos clientes". Isso não lhe dá prazer? Alimentar os comensais? "Meu prazer, sinceramente, é fazer. É isso que me sustenta." Helena Rizzo, 36 PRÊMIOS > Eleita a melhor chef mulher do mundo em 2014 pela revista inglesa "Restaurant" > No ranking organizado pela mesma revista, o 50 Best, o Maní é o 36º colocado; na lista da América Latina, é o quarto melhor EMPREENDIMENTOS > Maní (2006) > Padoca do Maní (fev.2015) > Manioca (mar.2015) Maní Onde r. Joaquim Antunes, 210, Pinheiros; tel. (11) 3085-4148 Padoca do Maní Onde r. Joaquim Antunes, 138, Pinheiros; tel. (11) 2579-2410 Manioca Iguatemi Onde av. Brig. Faria Lima, 2.232, Jardim Paulistano; tel. (11) 2924-2333 | comida |
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] | Ícone da renomada gastronomia italiana, o queijo grana padano bateu recorde de produção. Segundo o consórcio responsável pela tutela do queijo mais popular da Itália, no ano passado foram produzidas 4,9 milhões de unidades do laticínio, o que corresponde a uma alta de 6% em relação a 2013. Foi a maior produção já registrada. O número foi alcançado apesar de um embargo imposto pela Rússia ao grana padano por causa da crise na Ucrânia. "Agora os esforços estão voltados para a Expo [Milão 2015], onde nos apresentaremos como o mais importante player italiano do setor leiteiro", disse o presidente do consórcio, Nicola Cesare Baldrighi. Segundo ele, de 1998 para cá, o número de queijos exportados cresceu de 350 mil unidades para quase 1,6 milhão, com destaque para Alemanha, Estados Unidos e Suíça. O queijo grana padano tem Denominação de Origem Protegida, é feito com leite de vaca e tem cura longa. Derrete na boca e tem sabor suave, mas intenso. | comida |
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] | O universo dos restaurantes já está familiarizado com estabelecimentos que têm mulheres com pouca roupa servindo mesas –como a cadeia americana Hooters, que possui três casas no Brasil. A novidade está no restaurante Tallywackers, que se propõe a ser uma versão masculina do Hooters. Sem camisa e com as pernas à mostra, os garçons do Tallywackers são todos homens com corpos musculosos. De acordo com o site "Huffington Post", o local vai servir massas, pizza e cachorro-quente. O restaurante, que será aberta em maio na cidade norte-americana de Dallas, publicou em sua página no Facebook que ainda está contratando os garçons. | comida |
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] | Frank Sinatra era tão fã de Jack Daniels que deixaram uma garrafa da bebida em seu caixão. Lemmy, do Motorhead, entornava uma por dia, enquanto Bono diz ser seu drinque favorito. Já Keith Richards e Slash viraram garotos propaganda incidentais de tanto que apareceram em fotos bebendo o uísque de garrafa quadrada, o mais vendido do mundo e produzido num só local, no vilarejo de 6 mil habitantes de Lynchburg, no Estado americano do Tennessee. Mas nem sempre a cultura pop passou o recado direito. James Bond surgia nos romances tomando Jack Daniels, mas no filme "007 Contra GoldenEye" (1995) sua chefe M chama a bebida de "bourbon", um pecado mortal para os especialistas e algo explicado aos detalhes para quem visita a destilaria de quase 150 anos, responsável por mais de 10 milhões de caixas de garrafas da linha black label por ano. "Jack Daniels é filtrado vagarosamente, gota a gota, por dias, passando por três metros de carvão bem compactado antes de entrar nos barris de carvalho", disse o guia Jason Morgan, acrescentando que o processo retira impurezas e o gosto de milho (o uísque é feito com 80% de milho, 8% de centeio e 12% de cevada maltada). "É um passo extra, de amadurecimento pelo carvão, que lhe dá esta suavidade rara, que o faz ser um uísque típico do Tennessee, e não um bourbon", continuou Morgan, logo no começo do tour, onde pilhas de madeira de bordo, retiradas de árvores plantadas na propriedade de 1.700 acres, eram preparadas para virar carvão. Boa parte do gosto do Jack Daniels, além de sua cor, vem dos barris de carvalho branco, fabricados manualmente no local. O ingrediente "secreto" fica por conta da água de uma caverna no centro da destilaria, usada para fermentar os grãos desde os anos 1870. O poço é rico em calcário, que remove ferro da água, nutriente que dá gosto ruim à bebida. Em frente à caverna, há uma estátua do bigodudo Jack Daniels (1849-1911), que aprendeu a arte do uísque com um padre luterano quando tinha 20 e poucos anos. O cofre que ele chutou e lhe deu uma tremenda infecção, causando sua morte aos 61 anos, está no seu escritório, ao lado de retratos da família. Sem mulher nem filhos, a empresa ficou para seus sobrinhos, que em 1956 a venderam para a gigante de bebidas Brown-Forman. A destilaria recebe 250 mil turistas por ano, e as visitas ( saiba mais no site ) terminam com uma degustação de Jack Daniels. "Não é para virar o copo de uma vez, e sim apreciar aos poucos, em várias partes da língua", explica Morgan. No centrinho de Lynchburg, a 110km de Nashvilla, capital do Estado e cidade da música country, há uma loja gigante de souvernires do Jack Daniels, como arte feita com barris usados e bolos de avelã e uísque. O próprio Daniels está enterrado a menos de um um km dali. Como a bebida é feita em Lynchburg 1 - Toneladas de milho amarelo, que vem de outros Estados, passa por um moedora 2- Mais de 50 tanques recebem o milho triturado, a ser misturado com centeio e cevada 4 - Processo de fermentação e destilação leva seis dias, com a água da caverna da destilaria 3 - Para remover impurezas, a mistura é gotejada em tanques de filtros de carvão 4 - Para dar cor e gosto, líquido descansa em barris de carvalho branco Uísque, scotch e bourbon Bourbon é o uísque feito nos EUA, geralmente no Estado de Kentucky e com o mínimo de 51% de milho. Nesta região e em outras do país, não é feita a filtragem da mistura em carvão, como acontece apenas nas destilarias do Tennessee, que preferem ter sua bebida chamada de "uísque do Tennessee", e nunca bourbon. Já scotch é o uísque feito na Escócia, principalmente a partir de malte de cevada e sem filtragem. | comida |
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] | Será inaugurado, neste sábado (25), o Centro Gastronômico de Itaquera, que contará com cerca de 20 restaurantes e food trucks. Localizado na praça da Estação, o espaço funcionará das 10h às 20h de segunda a quinta-feira –nas sextas e fins de semana, ficará aberto até as 22h. A iniciativa é da CDLI (Câmara de Dirigentes Lojistas de Itaquera) e do Núcleo de Desenvolvimento Econômico Sustentável de Itaquera, com o apoio da prefeitura. O objetivo do projeto é revitalizar a praça da Estação e promover o desenvolvimento do bairro. | comida |
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] | O centro de São Paulo recebe, neste sábado (25), a segunda edição do "Chefs por Sampa" –a primeira foi no aniversário da cidade, em janeiro. O evento, gratuito, contará com a presença de chefs como Carlos Bertolazzi, do programa "Cozinha Sob Pressão" (SBT) e do do restaurante Zena Caffè, que fará um estrogonofe por R$ 15 –valor máximo cobrado por prato no evento; os mais baratos custarão R$ 5. Nomes como Raphael Despirite, chef do restaurante Marcel, e Daniela França Pinto, do Cortés e do Cordel Gastronômico, também estarão presentes. Esta edição do Chefs por Sampa, organizada pela Trilha Social –que também produz o Evento Gastronômico do Bem–, será no parque da Luz, das 11h às 19h. CHEFS POR SAMPA Onde Praça da Luz, ao lado da estação da Luz do metrô Quando Sábado (25), das 11h às 19h Mais (11) 98857-5731 | comida |
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] | Acontece neste fim de semana (25 e 26) a segunda edição do Festival Gourmet JK, no shopping JK Iguatemi. Cerca de 15 restaurantes da cidade estarão com barraquinhas no terceiro piso do shopping, ao ar livre, vendendo porções a preços entre R$ 6 e R$ 20. Participam do evento, por exemplo, a Forneria San Paolo com o ravióli de polenta e brie (R$ 20), o restaurante Saj, com as esfihas de carne e escarola (R$ 6), o Tian com o curry de pato (R$ 20), a Via Emilia com a piadina de mozarela de búfala, presunto cru, rúcula e azeite trufado (R$ 20) e o chef Carlos Bertolazzi, com a coxinha de pato (R$ 8) e o nhoque com ragu de ossobuco (R$ 20). Além disso, haverá cervejas, vinhos e sobremesas. O evento acontece das 12h às 20h e terá também espaço voltado para as crianças. Para entrar, será preciso pagar R$ 5 –a verba será revertida à Unibes (União Brasileiro-Israelita do Bem-Estar Social). Festival Gourmet JK Quando 25/4 e 26/4 Horário das 12h às 20h Onde av. Henrique Chamma, 420, Pinheiros, São Paulo Ingresso R$ 5 | comida |
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] | Na semana passada, enquanto o chef carioca Rafa Costa e Silva, do Lasai, apresentava pela primeira vez seu restaurante fora do Brasil, fiscais do Procon do Rio de Janeiro autuavam o estabelecimento, que acaba de receber uma estrela no guia "Michelin" brasileiro. Fiscais do órgão de defesa do consumidor disseram ter encontrado produtos sem especificação de data, como queijo, um bolo de fubá e um presunto cru, além de extintores de incêndio, refrigerantes e cervejas vencidos. O restaurante recebeu uma advertência, mas não foi multado nem corre o risco de fechar. No Brasil, há um vácuo na legislação sobre alguns produtos artesanais, como queijos de leite cru e carnes curadas, o que gera polêmicas e reclamações do setor gastronômico. O Procon-RJ afirmou que o bolo e o presunto cru citados pelo chef estavam sem especificação: as embalagens deveriam ter informações como procedência, data de validade e ingredientes. "A legislação não deixa os restaurantes terem nenhum produto artesanal. Jogaram no lixo uma pata inteira de presunto curado feito por uma produtora do Rio", argumentou Rafa, em conversa com a Folha. Segundo o Procon-RJ, "não há proibição, mas regras que, em alguns casos, não são cumpridas". EM LISBOA Rafa, 35, havia se apresentado no Peixe em Lisboa, um dos maiores festivais gastronômicos da Europa. Em sua primeira visita à capital portuguesa, o carioca, que viveu por cinco anos na Espanha, se disse impressionado com a qualidade de produtos artesanais. "No Brasil existe uma série de restrições que em Portugal e na Espanha não há, como o queijo de leite cru de ovelha. Sou a favor da fiscalização, o que sou contra é a lei atual", afirmou o chef. "Vou passar a etiquetar as fatias de bolo que tiramos do forno", provocou. Para o caso de refrigerantes vencidos, o chef admitiu em post no Instagram que "não há desculpa". Em sua primeira viagem desde que abriu o Lasai, no ano passado, indicou que pretende abrir outro restaurante, também no Rio. Muito aplaudido pelo público português, o chef cozinhou no Peixe em Lisboa pratos como a horta, feita apenas com vegetais como crocante de batata-doce, verduras e brotos. LASAI ONDE r. Conde de Irajá, 191, Botafogo, Rio; tel. (21) 3449-1834 HORÁRIO de ter. a sex., das 19h30 às 22h30; sáb., das 13h às 14h30 e das 19h30 às 22h30 | comida |
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] | O chef italiano Massimo Bottura, da Osteria Francescana –casa com três estrelas "Michelin" e considerada a terceira melhor do mundo na lista 50 Best, da revista britânica "Restaurant"– é uma das estrelas da série "Chef's Table", que o site Netflix estreia neste domingo (26). O programa, dirigido por David Gelb, diretor do filme "O Sushi dos Sonhos de Jiro" (2011), retrata seis chefs em seis capítulos. Além de Bottura, há nomes como Francis Mallmann e Magnus Nilsson. Bottura falou com a Folha, por e-mail, sobre a série. Leia abaixo a entrevista na íntegra. * Folha - Como foram o processo de filmagens e as decisões do que era importante para a série? Massimo Bottura David Gelb e sua equipe nos seguiram por todos os cantos. Nós convidamos eles para dentro das nossas cozinhas e dentro das nossas mentes; para os campos colher uvas para a produção de lambrusco; para ver, cheirar e provar parmigiano reggiano na fazenda leiteira Hombre; para andar pelas ruas de pedra de Modena; para jogar futebol nas ruas. David e sua equipe foram os únicos que escolheram as imagens e a história para contar. Como eles estavam filmando, escreveram o roteiro com base no que tinham visto e sentido durante as sessões de filmagens, que duraram dez dias. Eu poderia ter escrito de forma diferente, assim como a Lara [Gilmore, mulher dele]. Quando você está falando sobre um restaurante que já passou por tanta coisa, como nós passamos durante esses 20 anos, existem múltiplas histórias para contar sob diferentes ângulos. Quem você espera que vá assistir ao documentário? Eu assisti ao documentário pela primeira vez em Berlim, no festival de cinema, quando foi sua estreia. Foi difícil me assistir na tela grande e ver nossa história de 20 anos ser narrada de uma forma tão bonita. Na verdade, eu não sei quem vai ser o nosso público, mas eu espero que as pessoas que gostam de história sobre paixão e dedicação escolham por assistir à série. Eu ainda não assisti a todos os documentários, mas pelo que escutei, cada um deles é único para o chef e a história por detrás do restaurante. Isso foi o que mais me interessou quando o David veio conversar comigo sobre o projeto. Claro, todo nós adoramos o seu filme, "O Sushi dos Sonhos de Jiro", e é por isso que dissemos sim para ele imediatamente. Foi uma experiência incrível trabalhar com uma equipe tão profissional e ver o nosso restaurante e nossas vidas através dos olhos deles. Essa é sempre a parte mais interessante de um documentário: o que as outras pessoas enxergam em você. Às vezes você não gosta do que vê, mas não importa o quê, sempre vai te ajudar a crescer e entender-se ainda melhor. Eu nunca gosto de falar sobre os anos difíceis e nossas dificuldades. Eu já passei por eles, mas talvez essas histórias vão ajudar a inspirar chefs a alcançarem seus sonhos. Pelo menos, é o que espero. Qual é a importância de explicar sua trajetória e processo? Houve um período, não muito tempo atrás, em que chefs raramente saiam das cozinhas. As pessoas não sabiam nem como eles se pareciam fisicamente ou seus nomes. Hoje em dia tudo mudou. Os chefs têm uma voz que vem acompanhada de grandes responsabilidades. Na Osteria Francescana nós acreditamos que as receitas são gestos sociais e que podem mudar a visão que as pessoas têm sobre comida, agricultura, artesãos e o mundo ao redor deles. Na Osteria Francescana, nós somos capazes de superar nossos desafios, porque agimos e pensamos como um time e uma família. Essa é a mensagem que gostaríamos de compartilhar com o público. Todo mundo adora a cozinha italiana, mas muitas vezes as pessoas não estão dispostas a deixá-la crescer e tornar-se algo diferente do que eles já conhecem. Hoje, esse é o nosso maior desafio na Osteria, empurrar a cozinha italiana para a frente, a fim de garantir um futuro animado, inesperado e delicioso para a cozinha. Havia algo que você nunca tinha dito antes? Qual é a importância do relato de 'Chef's Table'? Como eu já mencionei, o "Chef's Table" é uma série que dá uma voz potente aos chefs. Eu acho que ela é uma série valiosa que lança um olhar sobre comidas de várias culturas, países e pontos de vista diferentes. O que eu gosto mais sobre ela é a diversidade que oferece para o público, não só geográfica, mas também conceitualmente. Ela mostra como cada restaurante é, o quão difícil é fazer um restaurante funcionar e entra no coração e alma do chef para contar essa história. Você acredita que exista algo em comum entre todos os chefs que participam do programa? Eu acredito que todos nós compartilhamos uma crença de que o que estamos fazendo é maior do que nossos próprios restaurantes, conceitos e ideias de cozinha. Nós todos acreditamos profundamente no que fazemos e que nosso trabalho enquanto chefs e restaurateurs tem um significado além de encher barrigas vazias. Existe uma paixão, obsessão e desejo em comum de não apenas melhorar a gastronomia, mas a agricultura, a nutrição, saúde, ao mesmo tempo em que fazemos as pessoas mais felizes. | comida |
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] | Consumo de peixe e veto à pesca são tema de debate Especialistas vão debater na terça (28), em São Paulo, a pesca e o consumo de peixe. Um dos temas que estimulou a discussão é a portaria 445 do governo federal, de 17/12, que proíbe a pesca de 334 espécies de peixes e frutos do mar, visando a preservação. Participam do evento, na Universidade Anhembi Morumbi (r. Casa do Ator, 294, Vila Olímpia), às 19h, o professor Ricardo Maranhão, o chef Ivan Ralston (Tuju), produtores e estudiosos. Inscrições pelo e-mail [email protected] (entrada franca). * Casa tem cafés especiais e receitas vegetarianas Foi aberto na região da av. Paulista, no mês passado, o Kaya Kafé. O espaço (r. Augusta, 2.052, Cerqueira César), que tem grafites, lustres retrô e uma bicicleta de quatro lugares, serve cafés especiais e receitas vegetarianas. De grãos brasileiros, os cafés feitos em diferentes métodos de preparo custam de R$ 4,50 a R$ 6,50. Além de tortas, quiches e sopas do dia (R$ 8,50), há quitutes como o pão de queijo torrado com geleia de framboesa orgânica e o bolo de banana (R$ 5,50 cada). * Novo bar de Spencer Jr. abre as portas em hotel Abre nesta sexta (24), em soft opening, o Frank Bar, no Maksoud Plaza (al. Campinas, 150, Jardim Paulista). O bar que homenageia Frank Sinatra será comandado pelo bartender Spencer Jr. (ex-Myny). A carta, com 33 drinques, inclui receitas exclusivas, clássicas e releituras. Fazem parte dela champagne julep (foto), martini e white lady (R$ 31, cada). Haverá também drinques envelhecidos entre opções do dia, descritos na lousa e receitas engarrafadas na hora do pedido. * COMIDA DE RUA: PROVAMOS E APROVAMOS Burguer Garni No Burguer Garni, o chef Luis Jucá faz duas opções de hambúrguer, sempre a R$ 20. Podem estar no cardápio o hambúrguer de cordeiro no pão de mandioquinha, com maionese de hortelã e folhas verdes, e o brasileiríssimo (foto), com hambúrguer de costela, queijo meia-cura e vinagrete de pimenta-biquinho ONDE No Butantan Food Park e na Feira Gastronômica Jardim das Perdizes (programação no site burguergarni.com.br ) * BRAMESON Aprenda a fazer a receita do bartender Plínio Silva, do TonTon de Cima, bar no segundo andar do restaurante TonTon (r. Caconde, 132, Jardim Paulista; tel. 11/2597-6168) e saiba mais sobre a amburana abaixo; * BRASILEIRINHO AMBURANA A planta de muitos nomes é comum na América do Sul e tem madeira de aroma doce e agradável. Usada na marcenaria e em tonéis de cachaça, pode substituir a fava de baunilha na aromatização de açúcar, por exemplo. ONDE Rei dos Temperos (r. Herbart, 47, Mercado da Lapa, box 32) QUANTO R$ 4,50 (80 g) * CARIOCA O matambre com abóbora caramelada (R$ 64), receita da avó do chef Pedro Siqueira, está no cardápio do Puro, no Jardim Botânico (tel. 21/3284-5377) * LANÇAMENTOS COMIDA DE RUA O guia reúne informações sobre 38 barracas e food trucks de SP, com fotos dos quitutes AUTORA Bianca Paulino Chaer EDITORA Alaúde QUANTO R$ 39,90 (248 págs.) SOBREMESAS E VINHOS No livro, o sommelier Olivier Poussier explora a harmonização entre vinhos e sobremesas AUTOR Olivier Poussier EDITORA Senac SP QUANTO R$ 139,90 (210 págs.) * AGENDA 25 de ABRIL Acontece a segunda edição do Chefs por Sampa. Participam da feira gastronômica (Praça da Luz, s/nº, Bom Retiro), das 11h às 19h, chefs como Carlos Bertolazzi (Zena Caffè) e Raphael Despirite (Marcel). As porções vão custar de R$ 5 a R$ 15 27 de ABRIL Curso de cozinha japonesa com a chef Telma Shimizu Shiraishi (Aizomê), com entrada, prato e sobremesa. Das 19h30 às 22h30, no Na Cozinha (r. Haddock Lobo, 955, Cerqueira César; tel. 11/3063-5374). É necessário fazer reserva | comida |
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] | Quem viu, anos atrás, o programa do inglês Jamie Oliver em que ele visitava a Itália e horrorizava as "mammas" com o despreparo na cozinha local não vai se assustar com a comida de seu primeiro restaurante na América Latina, o Jamie's Italian, de São Paulo. O nome já diz: é o "italiano do Jamie" (não necessariamente dos italianos). Aberta há um mês, a casa tem filas ininterruptas, telefone que jamais atende e espera do lado de fora, no estilo balada. Prova de que Oliver é um fenômeno de marketing. Merecido, já que seus livros, seus programas e sua militância por uma alimentação sadia ajudam a tornar a gastronomia mais acessível e melhor. Suas dezenas de restaurantes são seu ponto fraco (não de faturamento, mas de prestígio). O que não tira méritos do Jamie's Italian brasileiro, montado por investidores que incluem, como operador, o chef e consultor Lisandro Lauretti, 41. O estabelecimento funciona direito, mesmo com o intenso movimento. O fato de não ser religiosamente italiano não é pecado quando há criações atraentes –como os "nachos italianos" (raviólis de quatro queijos fritos com molho all'arrabbiata). E a delicadamente crocante lula frita com sêmola, servida com maionese de alho e pimenta dedo-de-moça. Melhores que os arancini (bolinhos de risoto de tomate e mozarela), empanados em farinha panko (que faria até algodão crocante), servidos envoltos numa casca amolecida. Os ingredientes são escolhidos a dedo, frango e porco são caipiras, o peixe do dia tem sido o beijupirá ("sustentável, sem contaminação"). Mas os pratos de peixe fixos do cardápio são de salmão, criado em gaiolas nas polêmicas fazendas chilenas. As massas incomodam. Confeccionadas em máquinas no local, só convencem em alguns formatos. As secas (de farinha e água, que devem ter textura mais firme) aqui parecem não ter secado o bastante para depois cozinhar al dente: ficam como massa fresca (aquela caseira, com ovo, mais macia). O espaguete parece linguine fresco, menos mal. Mas no "penne carbonara" a massa chega a dobrar sobre si mesma. Aliás, o molho podia ter outro nome (já que tem alho-poró, creme de leite, queijo demais) e melhor sabor. Talvez seja a preocupação com um estilo "leve e saudável" que dê aos pratos um sabor atenuado, pedindo mais tempero, como as pappardelle ao ragu de porco e erva-doce com vinho tinto, ou o linguine com camarões (pequeninos), sem sabor de mar. O frango caipira com alho e alecrim, servido com molho de tomate, azeitona, dedo-de-moça, anchova e alcaparra, tem a carne suculenta, mas sem tempero –ao menos traz por cima esses condimentos. O contrafilé, embora fino, veio malpassado, como pedido, na boa companhia de cogumelos, rúcula com endívia e batatas supostamente em chips (nem finas nem crocantes). Cheesecake de mascarpone tem mais gosto de limão que de queijo, e o tiramisù, mais gostoso, tem raspas de laranja –é o estilo italiano do Jamie. JAMIE'S ITALIAN - REGULAR ENDEREÇO av. Horácio Lafer, 61, Itaim, tel. (11) 2365-1309 HORÁRIO dom. a qua., das 12h às 23h; qui. a sáb., das 12h à 0h AMBIENTE informal, todo envidraçado, com móveis rústicos SERVIÇO eficiente e muito treinado VINHOS oferta modesta; somente um vinho em taça ou meia garrafa PREÇOS entradas, de R$ 18 a R$ 42 (por pessoa); pratos principais, de R$ 29 a R$ 78; acompanhamentos, de R$ 8 a R$ 22; sobremesas de R$ 16 a R$ 24 | comida |
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] | Nesta sexta-feira (24), a presidente Dilma Rousseff recebe para almoço a colega da Coreia do Sul, Park Geun-hye. Abre a refeição tortinha de carne-seca e abóbora, seguida de moqueca capixaba e bolo de rolo na sobremesa. A diplomacia brasileira levou para a mesa do Itamaraty as receitas e ingredientes nacionais para conquistar autoridades estrangeiras. "Pelo que serve, você pode fazer propaganda do seu país. Não só o que tem de típico, mas o que tem de qualidade para exportar", diz o chefe do Cerimonial do Itamaraty, Fernando Igreja. Assim, surubim, casquinha de siri, bobó de camarão e frutas como caju e graviola ganharam espaço no cardápio de almoços e jantares oferecidos a presidentes e ministros estrangeiros. "Evidentemente os pratos são elaborados para ter uma apresentação mais requintada", completa o diplomata. A estratégia, conhecida como "gastrodiplomacia", popularizou-se em 2002, a partir de campanha de divulgação da gastronomia tailandesa. Após o sucesso, países como Peru, Japão e Coreia do Sul adotaram a ideia para promover suas culinárias. Nas visitas oficiais, o perfil do visitante também precisa ser considerado na definição do menu. O banquete servido ao príncipe real da Arábia Saudita, em 2000, por exemplo, foi marcado pela "simplicidade e frugalidade" –com um cardápio que incluía surubim defumado e sorvetes de frutas tropicais. Segundo Carlos Cabral, autor de livro sobre gastronomia e serviço exterior, a escolha foi motivada pelo fato de o convidado não ser adepto a "novidades culinárias". E ainda há o problema da tradução. A sobremesa quindão, por exemplo, foi transformada em "egg-white pudding" (ou pudim de clara de ovo), em jantar servido na embaixada brasileira em Londres, no início de 2002. Na verdade, ela é feita de gema. A MESA E A DIPLOMACIA No livro "A Mesa e a Diplomacia Brasileira - O Pão e o Vinho da Concórdia" (Editora de Cultura), o escritor Carlos Cabral compara as regras da gastronomia diplomática a um tabuleiro de xadrez. "Cada peça tem seu valor e importância previamente definidos, e a vitória nesse confronto deve ser inteligente e elegante", afirma. A avaliação reflete a preocupação e o cuidado não apenas em elaborar os pratos mas também com o tipo de serviço adotado. É praxe, por exemplo, questionar assessores de presidentes e ministros, de antemão, sobre eventuais alergias ou restrições alimentares. O perfil do convidado também deve ser analisado. Na sede do Itamaraty, o foco é o destaque à culinária nacional. Para Tânia Manzur, professora de negociações internacionais na UnB (Universidade de Brasília), o uso de elementos culturais é um "instrumento de aproximação" entre os países. Ao lado da literatura e do cinema, por exemplo, a gastronomia contribui para o chamado "soft power". "Algumas estratégias podem ser mais eficientes e eficazes do que a própria ameaça ou coerção entre nações", comenta a professora. A França, já reconhecida pela qualidade de sua gastronomia, investe na preocupação em exportar uma boa imagem do país a partir de sua culinária. Seu objetivo atualmente é, a partir do estômago dos visitantes do país, ampliar de 84 milhões para 100 milhões o número de turistas internacionais. Recentemente, houve a promoção, em parceria com o renomado chef Alain Ducasse, de uma campanha para servir um menu com ingredientes e pratos franceses em cerca de 150 países. "A diplomacia é a arte de dialogar. Quando a culinária é boa e os vinhos são bons, a língua se delicia e as pessoas se aproximam", defende o embaixador da França Denis Pietton. CHURRASCO E LULA Para dar um tom mais intimista à refeição, o então presidente dos Estados Unidos, George W. Bush, recebeu em 2011 o colega da Rússia, Vladimir Putin, em seu rancho, no Texas. Serviu churrasco e torta de nozes-pecã, tipicamente americana. No Brasil, houve mudança recente na forma como os pratos são servidos. Durante o governo Lula (2003-2010), o serviço à francesa -em que convidados recebem ao mesmo tempo o prato já elaborado- deu espaço ao bufê. Se antes havia mais tempo para a conversa entre os presentes numa mesma mesa, a ideia passou a ser a convivência ao se servir e no caminho entre o balcão e a cadeira. Ao ser eleita, Dilma Rousseff retomou o formato anterior, mais tradicional na diplomacia. * LIBERDADE POÉTICA No cardápio do Itamaraty, quindim é "coconut surprise" (surpresa de coco) e bobó de camarão vira "Bahian shrimp" (camarão baiano). A feijoada é explicada por seus ingredientes, como feijão preto e carnes defumadas SEM SURPRESAS Para evitar problemas à mesa, todos os convidados de alto escalão, como chefes de Estado e chanceleres, são questionados com antecedência pelo Itamaraty sobre possíveis alergias DESCONTRAÍDO Ao assumir, Lula adotou o formato de buffet. Assim, buscava-se aumentar a descontração e permitir que convidados conversassem no percurso entre mesa e balcão. Dilma retomou o formato em que recebe-se o prato já elaborado CARNE PROIBIDA Em 2004, quando o então presidente Lula recebeu o primeiro-ministro do Japão, Junichiro Koizumi, o prato principal tinha a carne como protagonista. A produção nacional sofria barreiras para ingressar em território japonês. De sobremesa, foi servido um musse de manga. Ali, o recado foi de agradecimento: o Japão tinha liberado, após 27 anos, o ingresso da fruta em seu mercado O QUE TEM PARA HOJE Nesta sexta-feira (24), Dilma recebe a presidente da Coreia do Sul, Park Geun-hye. O cardápio: tortinha de carne-seca, abóbora e Catupiry, moqueca mista capixaba, arroz branco, farofa e vatapá. De sobremesa, bolo de rolo, sorvete de tapioca, calda de pitanga e frutas BOBÓ E CHARLOTTE Na visita de Kofi Annan, natural de Gana e então secretário-geral da ONU, em 1998, o cardápio teve inspiração afro-brasileira, com bobó de camarão e charlotte de maçã com calda de damasco GAFE Em 1968, ao fazer um brinde para a rainha Elizabeth 2ª, o general Costa e Silva saudou a visitante com a expressão "God....", mas esqueceu o final da frase, "save the queen", e repetiu a palavra seguidamente. Um auxiliar precisou ajudar o militar POLIGLOTA O cardápio é sempre traduzido para línguas mais recorrentes como inglês, francês e espanhol. Dependendo do visitante, pode-se acrescentar árabe ou chinês | comida |
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] | "Hoje o assunto é gelo", diz em tom entediado o mixologista Marco De la Roche. A moda das bolotas translúcidas ocupando copos indiscriminadamente o incomoda. "Alguns drinques podem receber cubos mais simples", conta. Nos coquetéis, as pedras (caseiras, de máquina, ensacadas ou artesanais) são essenciais. "Tanto em apresentação quanto em diluição. Até os vendidos em posto têm sua função. Nesse caso, é resolver uma emergência", desmistifica Fabio La Pietra, do bar SubAstor. Mesmo reclamando da moda ("parece que querem vender mais o gelo do que o drinque", diz La Pietra), todos concordam: é importante melhorar a qualidade dos cubos por aí –ainda mais se você está investindo na coquetelaria caseira. "Eles alteram o drinque e devem ser bons como os outros ingredientes", afirma Alex Mesquita, do carioca Paris Bar. Por isso, o "Comida" reúne dicas de profissionais para fazer gelo de qualidade em casa e para reconhecer qualidades e defeitos em cubos do mercado. COMO FAZER PODE SER DE TORNEIRA? >> Use água mineral ou filtrada (de preferência em filtro de barro). Se for o convencional, troque a cada quatro meses CALOR É IMPORTANTE >> Ferva a água, deixe esfriar e ferva novamente. Isso elimina uma porcentagem do oxigênio que se concentra no gelo. Coloque a água morna na forma (previamente lavada com água fervente) ONDE COLOCAR >> Prefira as formas de silicone, que se adaptam ao gelo sem rachá-lo. Recipientes maiores também podem ser usados PROTEÇÃO >> Como o freezer é usado para outros fins, cubra a forma com papel filme; isso evita que que o gelo tenha aromas indesejados NÃO É SÓ USAR O FREEZER >> Isole o recipiente dentro do freezer, mantendo-o distante da base do congelador (use uma superfície de isopor para apoiá-lo) e do fundo da prateleira. A ideia é fazer o congelamento lentamente, sem correntes vindo vindo de cima e de baixo, o que comprime o ar no centro do gelo GRANDES BLOCOS >> Uma maneira de ter gelo translúcido e do tamanho desejado é congelar água em um pote como o de sorvete (deixe quatro dedos dele sem água). Mantenha o recipiente por 15 a 20 horas no freezer, evitando abrir a porta neste período; depois, ele deve ser "cortado" BLOCOS MENORES >> Ao retirar a peça de gelo do pote, apoie-a em um pano de prato limpo e localize uma parte totalmente transparente. Com uma faca de serra longa (como a de pão), faça movimentos pequenos de vai e vem até deixar uma marca. Mantenha a faca nesse local e, usando um macerador de caipirinha, bata aos poucos até quebrar o bloco; Faça cubos com 6 cm por 6 cm. A ARTE DE TIRAR >> Para não trincar o gelo, ao tirá-lo do freezer, não passe água. Deixe a forma em temperatura ambiente por cinco minutos e depois passe as mãos por ele * OS TIPOS CASEIRO >> Pode ter pouca qualidade se feito com água de torneira ou de filtro sem manutenção; se armazenado próximo a alimentos, pode absorver aromas indesejados ENSACADO >> Opção prática de gelo feito com água filtrada. No entanto, a condição do filtro pode ser questionável. Se armazenado incorretamente no percurso da fábrica ao freezer, derrete e congela novamente, formando blocos com cristais que diluem de forma desigual DA MÁQUINA >> O mais comum em bares, é feito com água filtrada e de boa qualidade. Pode, no entanto, sofrer variação por causa da manutenção, ficando mais opaco e com sabor presente. O gelo em cubo tem superfície de contato menor do que o gelo em tubo, apresentando menor diluição ARTESANAL >> Feito em bares, geralmente com água mineral, usando freezer com temperatura controlada entre -20º C e -25º C (que pode ser de sorvete) e cubos cortados no tamanho ideal para cada drinque * COMO RECONHECER UM BOM GELO >> O gelo deve ser transparente, sem partes cinzentas (elas indicam a presença de ar) >> Cubos opacos são menos consistentes e descongelam mais rápido. "Se você quer um cubo de água congelada, não faz sentido dividir o espaço dele com ar", diz Marco De la Roche >> Um gelo disforme tem mais superfície de contato, tende a derreter mais rápido (as pontas se diluem antes do centro) >> Cheirar o gelo é útil para perceber aromas indesejados, que aparecem quando o uso do freezer é dividido >> Gelo não deve ter qualquer sabor * DRINQUES ENGARRAFADOS PARA O SEU GELO SPRITZ O QUÊ drinques carbonatados, com gim ou vodca, para levar para casa ou tomar no restaurante, com bastante gelo QUANTO R$ 35 (275 ml) ONDE no Vito (r. Isabel De Castela, 529, Vila Madalena; tel. (11) 3032-1469 SOB ENCOMENDA O QUÊ drinques clássicos feitos sob encomenda para eventos pelos barmen Jean Ponce e Fernando Lisboa QUANTO de R$ 17 a R$ 37 (100 ml), com mínimo de 30 unidades CONTATO [email protected] | comida |
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] | A ExpoVinis divulgou, em cerimônia realizada no início da tarde desta quarta-feira (22), os vencedores do prêmio Top 10 da feira. O júri foi formado por 13 especialistas –entre eles, os sommeliers Jorge Lucki, Manoel Beato, do grupo Fasano, Mario Telles Jr., da ABS (Associação Brasileira de Sommeliers), Tiago Locatelli, do grupo Varanda, e o chileno Hector Riquelme. A premiação seleciona os melhores vinhos expostos no evento, em dez categorias. Veja abaixo a lista de vencedores. A 19ª edição da ExpoVinis foi aberta nesta quarta, apenas para profissionais do setor; a partir desta quinta (23), estará aberta ao consumidor final. EXPOVINIS BRASIL 2015 ONDE Expo Center Norte, pavilhão azul, r. José Bernardo Pinto, 333, Vila Guilherme; expovinis.com.br QUANDO de 22 a 24/4 QUANTO R$ 100 (inteira) * | comida |
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] | Hélène Darroze, proprietária dos restaurantes de mesmo nome localizados em Paris e Londres, foi eleita a melhor chef mulher de 2015 no prêmio 50 Best, organizado pela revista "Restaurant". Ela será premiada durante a cerimônia que revelará a lista com os 50 melhores restaurantes do mundo, marcada para junho, em Londres. Nascida na França, Hélène Darroze faz parte da quarta geração de chefs que integrou o time de Alain Ducasse no prestigiado restaurante Le Louis 15, em Mônaco. Depois de três anos sob a tutela de Ducasse, ela retornou ao restaurante da família, Chez Darroze, na região francesa de Landes. A chef comandou a cozinha da casa por quatro anos, fechou o restaurante e seguiu para Paris. Lá abriu o Hélène Darroze. Em 2008, inaugurou a segunda casa, em Londres. A sazonalidade é característica importante nas receitas francesas contemporâneas de Darroze. A chef costurou, ao longo de anos, uma rede de fornecedores que permite liberdade na criação de pratos com ingredientes frescos e de alta qualidade. Um de seus pratos clássicos é o risoto de tinta de lula com lulas salteadas, chorizo, tomate confit e espuma de parmesão –considerado simultaneamente modesto e complexo. De personalidade agradável e equilibrada, Darroze inspirou a chef Colette, da animação Ratatouille, produzida pelos estúdios Pixar em 2007. | comida |
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] | Centenas de mulheres nicaraguenses pobres optaram, nos últimos anos, pelo uso de fornos solares para preparar alimentos, com o propósito de reduzir o consumo de lenha, proteger o meio ambiente e a saúde humana, informou nesta terça-feira (21) a fundação que promove o projeto. Os fornos foram elaborados pelas beneficiárias com madeira, lâminas de zinco, vidro e papel alumínio, com a ajuda da Fundação Projeto Solar para Mulheres Nicaraguenses, que trabalha em zonas pobres dos departamentos de Masaya, Granada e Rivas (no sul do país) e León (noroeste). O forno é "uma caixa com vidro e refletor, de um metro quadrado, que coloca ao sol para economizar lenha", explicou à AFP Mercedes Álvarez, dirigente da Fundação e engenheira química. Veja as fotos Mais de 800 mulheres já foram beneficiadas nos últimos nove anos pela fundação com os fornos, que podem atingir até 200ºC, "a temperatura ótima para cozinhar", disse. O projeto busca reduzir o uso de lenha e carvão no preparo de alimentos, o que é muito comum nas zonas rurais e semiurbanas da Nicarágua –e uma das principais causas de doenças pulmonares em mulheres, segundo Álvarez. Os fornos solares são fabricados quase gratuitamente pela Fundação, com uma cooperação de US$ 60 mil (R$ 183 mil) do órgão suíço Frauen Solar Proyeckt Nicaragua. A prefeitura de Dubai, nos Emirados Árabes Unidos, concedeu ao projeto, em fevereiro, o prêmio de boas práticas de manufatureiras. Além de facilitar os fornos solares, a Fundação ensina as mulheres a purificar a água que extraem do manto aquífero por meio de poços, já que há falta de redes de água potável no país. "A água do poço é filtrada com um coador ou pedaço de pano e colocada em uma garrafa de plástico (não até a boca), que é tapada, agitada por 20 segundos; depois, a garrafa é cheia e colocada para esquentar no teto da casa por um período de 6 a 24 horas", explicou Álvarez. "O aquecimento mata as bactérias" e produz uma água leve e com bom sabor. | comida |
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] | Quatro dias foram tempo demais para a estrela de Hollywood Gwyneth Paltrow, que desistiu de prosseguir com o desafio de se limitar a um orçamento de US$ 29 (cerca de R$ 90) –o valor de um cupom de comida– para comprar alimentos. A atriz de 42 anos, protagonista de "Shakespeare Apaixonado", entre outros sucessos, foi desafiada pelo célebre chef Mario Batali a viver com o equivalente ao valor dos cupons de comida, distribuídos pelo governo americano às famílias de baixa renda. O objetivo da iniciativa era arrecadar fundos e gerar consciência pública sobre o Banco de Alimentos de Nova York, que fornece milhões de refeições grátis aos novaiorquinos necessitados. Com US$ 29 na carteira, Paltrow encheu a sacola com ovos, feijão preto, alface, um tomate, repolho, abacate e bolos de milho. "Como suspeitei, só consegui fazer isso por quatro dias, quando pessoalmente me rendi e comi um pouco de frango e legumes frescos (e, em total transparência, meio saco de alcaçuz preto)", escreveu, na semana passada, em seu blog Goop.com. Atribuindo a si própria uma nota ruim (C-), Paltrow culpou a desigualdade de renda entre o homem e a mulher pelas dificuldades que as "mães trabalhadoras" enfrentam ao ter que alimentar suas famílias. Um em cada sete americanos –46 milhões de pessoas– vive do que o governo chama oficialmente de Programa de Assistência Nutricional Suplementar, ou SNAP, na sigla em inglês. O Departamento da Agricultura, que controla o SNAP, estima o custo semanal de alimentos para uma família de quatro pessoas entre US$ 151 e US$ 247 (de R$ 460 a R$ 752). Mas nem tudo está perdido: Paltrow postou em seu blog, Goop, três receitas para transformar as compras com vales em pratos apetitosos, que incluem tacos de feijão preto, tortas de feijão com molho de milho e abacate com ovo pochê. | comida |