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https://www.wikihow.com/Analyze-a-Movie	How to Analyze a Movie	To analyze a movie, start by introducing its background, along with any ideas you had about the film before you saw it. Then, briefly describe the movie's major conflict, and summarize its plot. Next, talk about the themes you found interesting, and explain how the film supported those themes. You should also speak to what you didn't like, or what wasn't well done in the movie. Finally, give your overall assessment, backing up your opinion with the previous analysis, and providing any suggestions to others who might want to watch the film.	Know only the basics. If you've never seen the movie you want to analyze before, don't do a ton of research beforehand. You want to go into the movie and let it make its impression on you, not the other way around. It's good to know some very simple background information, but otherwise, try to let the film speak for itself. Some of the basics you will want to know include: the year and place the movie was made; the studio that sponsored it; and its director, main actors, and writers. Try to avoid reading reviews or spoilers before the movie; they can bias you. Even trailers can make you judge a movie before you see it. Watch alone (or with a quiet friend). You are going to want to focus in-depth on the movie so that you can write a good analysis later, and it's best to do that without any distractions. Some people find it intimidating to go to the movies alone, but you may find that's it's actually fun and helps you focus better on the things that matter. If you feel like you must go with a friend, pick a thoughtful one. Someone who squirms or makes jokes all the time will distract you. Watch all in one sitting. Unlike television shows, movies are meant to be seen all at once. If you interrupt the flow of the movie to get a snack or run around the block, you won't have the experience the creators intended you to have. Sit still, and hit pause as little as possible. Take a few notes. If you aren't in a dark theatre, you can scribble down a few observations to yourself as the movie unfolds. However, your focus should be on the movie, not on your writing, so don't get too caught up in doing an in-depth analysis right there in your seat. You can do that later! Make sure you don't pause. Some things you may want to jot down, especially if they catch your attention, include: Major plot points. Crucial or repeated lines. Particularly notable shots. Write down all your thoughts after. While the credits are rolling and your brain is still fresh, record everything that struck you about the movie or felt significant. You don't have to organize these thoughts into categories yet, so just make a point of focusing on things you thought were interesting, or emphasized by the filmmakers. If you're stuck for ideas, try thinking about…...the way color was used....whether the shots flowed together or were jarring....if particular characters or things were supposed to represent certain things. Wait, then look over your thoughts. After a day or so, review the notes you took during and after the movie. Think about if any of the things you focused on seemed to be bigger issues throughout the movie, from a theme of self-sacrifice to the fact that only evil characters wear hats. Once you've identified the themes that seem most important, you can start breaking down the movie to look for evidence in each of its elements. Investigate the movie’s background. Any given movie contains at least two stories: the narrative it tells, and the background of its creation. Movies take a lot of time, effort, and money to make. Learning a bit about how the film you're trying to analyze was made will give you a lot of insight into it. Are there any myths about the movie's creation? For example, The Wizard of Oz has a ton of urban legends surrounding it. Even if the legends aren't true, they may tell you about the movie's mystique or fan base. Did the filmmakers intend for the movie to comment on contemporary politics or culture? For instance, Dr. Strangelove was made in the 1960s and satirized the Cold War that the United States was embroiled in. Was the movie based on a true story, fiction, or a mix of the two? For example, the 1977 TV series Roots explores the family history of writer Alex Haley. Even though real people and events are present, the story is fleshed out with fictionalized characters and side events. Think about the story arc. Movies are a storytelling medium, and the success of a film depends on the structure of the story. Think about the pacing of the story and whether it's choppy or smooth. Make note of any major plot twists, too. If you want to figure out if a movie was well-plotted, write down the major events of the plot as you remember them. If you can remember them in order, that's a good sign. Most movie plots follow the same structure: setup, to new situation, to progress, to higher stakes, to final push, to resolution. Engage with the writing. The writing of a movie supports the story, so a well-plotted movie is often well-written as well. Try to figure out if you got all the information you needed from the writing. Make a list of any notable quotes or phrases. Does the dialogue sound believable, like real people talking? Even in movies that take place in the past, you should not be so distracted by old-timey grammar that you can't follow the story. Try to tell where the jokes are, and if they land well. (You can easily tell this in a theatre--if you hear other people laughing, it means the joke worked.) Make note of moments of silence. These can say as much as words do. Judge the acting. Think about the characters for a moment. Are they believable? This does not mean whether you like the character portrayed or not, but refers instead to whether the acting helped you to believe the characters were real. Just as important is an actor's presence on the screen. If an actor commands your attention so that you can't look away, they're probably performing well. Are accents and speech patterns consistent throughout the movie? Do they provide additional information, or are they distracting? How do the actors convey information using their bodies and faces? Pay attention to the interactions between the actors, including how they move, their expressions and gestures, and how they deliver their dialogue. Analyze the lighting and camera techniques. A horror movie might use a shaky camera and dim light to express authenticity. A blockbuster might rely on bright lighting that makes the actors look flawless, and smooth cuts from shot to shot. Try to identify the mood you get from looking at a particular scene, then identify the camera and lighting work that is making you feel that way. Angles are important too: they show you where the director would want you positioned in a scene. Does the angle make you feel like you're looking down on people, or backed up into a corner? Find your favorite scene in the movie and pause it on the screen. Then, pay attention to the lighting and composition—think about how it affects the atmosphere and emotion in that scene. Other production elements to examine include the blocking, editing, and camera movement in the film. Consider the soundtrack. Movie soundtracks are an accessible way for all types of people to engage with music--even orchestral music! Think about the soundtrack's volume, mood, and importance to the plot. A good soundtrack will deepen the mood of the movie that you're watching and may even advance the plot. It should not be distracting. Horror movies are well-known for their atmospheric soundtracks, which can make a tense environment even scarier. The Shining is a famous example of this: with the music turned off, some of the most terrifying scenes don't seem so bad. Some period movies like A Knight's Tale , or Sofia Coppola's Marie Antoinette , use contemporary music to help audiences better empathize with historic figures. Examine the trappings. The inanimate objects used to set the proper mood for a movie can tell you a lot about it too. Is the director of the movie known for a particular aesthetic? Do you feel a specific way when you look at the sets? Is this the type of movie in which the plot doesn't matter because the accessories are so fabulous? Look at the costumes. Clothes are an easy way to set a movie in a particular time or place, but if they're not accurate, they can detract from the film. Examine the outfits the characters wear carefully, and try to figure out if they do any visual storytelling of their own. Sets are powerful too. Many films shoot for hyper realistic sets, while others have more basic backdrops. Some directors even choose sets that look like theatre stages as a deliberate choice. Organize your evidence. You want facts that support your concept of its themes, which could be concepts, colors, or even repeated images or lines of dialogue throughout the film. Look over your thoughts on the different elements of the movie and see if you can find support for your thoughts. For instance, if you're analyzing the 1995 Disney movie Aladdin, you might think about how Aladdin craves both freedom (from hunger, prison, and poverty) and power throughout the movie, and how other characters' desires for freedom or power shape them as well. You might think about how Aladdin and Jasmine each describe themselves as "trapped" at first, despite their different circumstances, and how the Genie is happy to trade physical strength for a vacation at the end. Pick the themes that resonate with you. The best writing comes from enthusiasm, so channel what excites you into your work. Remember that directors don't necessarily put themes in on purpose. For instance, many critics felt that objectification of women was a theme throughout Transformers, but it's unlikely that the director consciously chose to do this. Start with an introduction. Now that you've made all your judgements of the movie, it's time to help others do the same. Mention the background of the film, including the people involved in making it, and make a note of any expectations you had going in. At this point, you can hint as to your theories about the movie, but there's no need to hit your readers over the head with them. In your analysis of Aladdin , you would want readers to know that the movie's story is based off of a cycle of legends called the 1001 Nights and that its images are inspired by an earlier, unfinished movie called The Thief and the Cobbler. Summarize the plot. Take a sentence or three to explain the setup of the plot and the seeds of the major conflict. Try to be as brief as possible: plot is but one small aspect of the movie, and you have a lot of ground to cover. To summarize Aladdin , you'd want to say that it's the story of a clever young man whose life changes forever when an encounter with a Genie grants him incredible power and privilege--though not without a cost. It should go without saying, but if you're writing a review, no spoilers. Don't describe any major twists or resolutions. If you're writing a more formal analysis for class, it's okay to explain the whole plot. Don't get too snarky. A joke or two is fine. Explore the themes you find interesting. Once you've gone into the bones of the movie, you can tell your reader about the layers on top of them. Pose a hypothesis about what you think the filmmaker is trying to say, or even what the filmmaker wants you to think. Identify examples of elements in the movie that prove your point. In the story of Aladdin , you could make the argument that power is a trap. Both Jasmine and the Sultan are royalty, but their lives are ruled by antiquated marriage laws and Jafar, a vizier who towers over both of them. Both Jafar and Aladdin use the Genie to gain great temporary control, but these new powers are capricious. Jafar is defeated by his power: he turns into a genie and is imprisoned in a lamp. By the end, Jasmine has been freed to marry who she wants, and Aladdin has chosen to free the Genie, as he promised. The characters who choose their own freedom--and prioritize others' freedom at the expense of their own power--are rewarded. You don't have to tie all your observations back to a simple thesis, necessarily. However, it's good to stay on task. Criticize aspects of the movie you did not appreciate. Don't be afraid to criticize. There are very few perfect films, and a nuanced discussion of the film's flaws will add strength to your analysis. Go ahead and say what would you change about the movie. Are there any ways in which it could support its themes better? Wrap it up. Did the film meet expectations? What is your overall verdict? Use your opinion backed up by analysis and facts. Obviously, this is your review, and it can't be objective: express whether you think the movie succeeded at its aims, and whether you enjoyed it. In the conclusion of your analysis of Aladdin , you might decide that its emphasis on the joys of freedom resonated with you and made the movie a popular hit, but you were troubled about how casual the protagonist was about making weaker or indentured characters (like the monkey, carpet, and Genie) do his work for him. Overall, do you think the movie was a success? Can you imagine the filmmakers exploring similar visions later? If you're writing an accessible review for a large audience, feel free to make a recommendation about what types of people might be interested in the movie (costume fans, classical music buffs, people who like watching things blow up…)	Know only the basics. Watch alone (or with a quiet friend). Watch all in one sitting. Take a few notes. Write down all your thoughts after. Wait, then look over your thoughts. Investigate the movie’s background. Think about the story arc. Engage with the writing. Judge the acting. Analyze the lighting and camera techniques. Consider the soundtrack. Examine the trappings. Organize your evidence. Start with an introduction. Summarize the plot. Explore the themes you find interesting. Criticize aspects of the movie you did not appreciate. Wrap it up.
https://www.wikihow.com/Grow-Tomatoes-in-Pots	How to Grow Tomatoes in Pots	To grow tomatoes in pots, select a 15 gallon, 18-inch plastic pot with drainage holes at the bottom for each tomato plant. Add a layer of pebbles or river rocks to the bottom of the pot, then fill the pot the 1/3 of the way with a mixture of potting soil and vegetable fertilizer. Place your seeds or seedlings into the pot, then fill the pot the rest of the way with soil and attach a tomato cage to the pot. Water the plants thoroughly whenever the soil seems dry, and keep the plants where they will get 4-6 hours of sun each day.	Buy healthy tomato plants or seeds. Go to your local garden store and look at the tomato varieties available. A growing plant will produce tomatoes quicker, but you may have more variety to choose from if you buy seeds. If you purchase a tomato plant, look for one that is a healthy green color with whole leaves untouched by pests. Both BushSteak and Patio Princess tomato plants do well in containers and produce ample fruit. If you are looking for a cherry tomato variety, try the Sweet Baby Girl plant. Some 'early' tomato plants will develop fruit within 45 days of planting. However, it usually takes a healthy plant 80 days to create fruit. If you plant from a seed, then you'll need to include an additional 20 days for germination and seedling growth. Select a 15 US gal (57 L), 18 in (46 cm) pot for each tomato plant. This is the minimum size necessary to give your plant adequate room to develop. Some small varieties, such as Sun Sugar, may fit inside a 12 in (30 cm) pot, but the roots will be restricted and your yield may not be very impressive. Choose plastic pots for easier movement and cleaning. Sturdy clay pots may look nice, but a pot this large will get very heavy and you will not be able to move it without some strain. Whiskey barrel halves are another common choice, but they are almost impossible to sanitize. Instead, look for sturdy plastic pots with drainage holes and saucers. Some plastic pots are also fashioned to look like terracotta on the outside. Placing a dolly underneath a pot can help you move it around for watering or variable sunlight, too. Scrub each planting pot clean with hot water and soap. Even if you've bought pots from the store, it's important to sanitize them completely before planting. Add a squirt of dish soap into each pot and then fill it up with hot water. Let it soak for a minimum of 5 minutes before completely rinsing it out with fresh water to remove all soap residue. Then let your pots dry completely before you use them. Cleaning your pots helps to reduce the possibility of harmful bacteria or insect eggs infecting your new plants. Repeat this process every time you plant something new in a pot. Mix together potting soil and vegetable fertilizer. Purchase an all-purpose potting soil at your local gardening center. While you are there, buy a bag of vegetable fertilizer as well. Follow the directions on the fertilizer bag and mix it into the potting soil. Don't ever plant using soil directly from the ground. It could contain bacteria or pests that might damage your tomato plants or seedlings. Place a fiberglass screen at the bottom of your pot. Get a small roll of fiberglass or plastic window screening from your local hardware store. Use industrial scissors to cut a piece out of the screen. It should be slightly larger than the size and shape of the bottom of your pot. Then, position the screen inside the pot. Adding a screen to the bottom of your pot will keep the soil from draining out with the water. This keeps more nutrients close to your tomato plant's roots, too. Pour pebbles or river rocks into your saucer. Add them in until you've created an even layer in the bottom of your saucer. Then, place your pot on top of the saucer and rocks. Check to make sure that your pot is level and sturdy. The rocks create air gaps in between the underside of your pot and the surface it sits on, which allows water to drain out more thoroughly. Fill your pot 1/3 full with potting mix. For a 15 US gal (57 L) pot, you should cover the bottom 6 to 8 inches (15 to 20 cm) with soil. This leaves plenty of room for you to place the plant and then surround it with additional soil. If you add too much soil initially, you may expose too much of your plant to the sun, which can harm it. If you are planting tomato seeds, add potting soil until you get.5 in (1.3 cm) from the top of the pot. Planting your seeds any deeper will prevent them from sprouting. Place 2 seeds in the center of each pot if you’re growing tomatoes from seeds. Make a.25 in (0.64 cm) tiny hole in the dead middle of the pot. Then, put 2 seeds into this hole and re-cover it with soil. The seeds should be fully covered and hidden when you are finished. Planting both seeds at once gives you greater odds that 1 of them will sprout up. Place a single plant in the center of each pot if you’re growing from plants. Grasp the plant firmly by its center stalk and rock it back and forth gently in the original plastic container to loosen the soil up. Then, pull up firmly. Place the plant in the very middle of the new pot. Fill up the space around the plant with soil until it is even with the current soil line of the plant. Be very careful when lifting the plant out of its original container or you could damage the roots. If the plant won't budge from its original plastic container, try watering it just until the soil is moist before transplanting it. Give the tomato plant or seeds a thorough watering. Soak it with water once, and then wait another 10 minutes before soaking it again. The soil should be completely saturated. If you've planted seeds, take care to gently sprinkle water on the soil. Don't use enough force or add enough water to dislodge the seeds from the soil. After soaking it so thoroughly, your tomato plant may not need additional watering for an entire week. Constantly saturating your tomatoes will destroy them. Insert a tomato cage once the pot is filled with soil. Carefully push the legs of the cage into the soil, centered over the tomato plant. Stop once the cage is firmly fixed in place. If you feel any resistance, pause and readjust the position of the cage before continuing. Pushing down too recklessly can damage the roots. Tomato cages are usually made out of concrete reinforcing wire. They are sold at gardening centers. If a tomato cage gets bent or damaged, make sure to pull it out carefully and replace it. Otherwise, it could pull down your plant. Position the pot so that it gets 4-6 hours of sun each day. Your tomato plants need between 4-6 hours of total sun per day in order to grow and eventually produce fruit. If needed, place your pots on dollies and roll them to where they'll get sun. You can also set your pots in front of a sun lamp indoors. Keep the sun lamp at least 6 inches (15 cm) away from the pots to avoid burning the plants. If you've planted tomato seeds, keep them warm at night by covering the top of each pot tightly with plastic wrap. Then, remove it at the start of each day. Wrap nylon netting around the tomato cage. Position the netting so that it encloses the entire cage, including the top. Then, fold the netting over the upper cage rims. Secure the netting to the rims using clothespins or other sturdy clips. The netting helps to keep insects, such as tomato worms and stink bugs, away from the plant. It also helps to filter the sun's rays to prevent leaf burning. If you do find insects on your plants, try using a mild insecticide. There are both natural and manufactured options available, depending on the offending pest. Be sure to thoroughly rinse any insecticide-treated tomatoes before you eat them. Water your tomatoes as often as necessary in order to keep the soil moist. If the soil is dry for.5 in (1.3 cm) down or if your plants look slightly wilted at the end of the day, then they need to be watered. Keep watering until you see water coming out of the pot's bottom drain holes. This means that the water has saturated the soil from top to bottom. Vary your watering schedule depending on the season and temperature. On hot days, you may need to water daily. When the weather is mild, once weekly might suffice. When you are finished watering, drain off any remaining water from the saucer. Letting the water sit in the saucer can cause root rot. Try to water your tomatoes during the daytime. Evening or nighttime water can encourage the growth of fungus. Harvest your tomatoes one-by-one once they develop their red color. The fruits should almost be completely red with only trace amounts of green remaining. Ripe tomatoes can be plucked by gently pulling at the stem with your fingers. Or, use a pair of garden shears to snip them off their branches. Note that some varieties of tomatoes (check your variety) are naturally striped, green, or otherwise not like an ordinary red tomato when mature.	Buy healthy tomato plants or seeds. Select a 15 US gal (57 L), 18 in (46 cm) pot for each tomato plant. Choose plastic pots for easier movement and cleaning. Scrub each planting pot clean with hot water and soap. Mix together potting soil and vegetable fertilizer. Place a fiberglass screen at the bottom of your pot. Pour pebbles or river rocks into your saucer. Fill your pot 1/3 full with potting mix. Place 2 seeds in the center of each pot if you’re growing tomatoes from seeds. Place a single plant in the center of each pot if you’re growing from plants. Give the tomato plant or seeds a thorough watering. Insert a tomato cage once the pot is filled with soil. Position the pot so that it gets 4-6 hours of sun each day. Wrap nylon netting around the tomato cage. Water your tomatoes as often as necessary in order to keep the soil moist. Harvest your tomatoes one-by-one once they develop their red color.
https://www.wikihow.com/Treat-Yourself-if-You-Get-Stung-by-a-Bee-or-Wasp	How to Treat Yourself if You Get Stung by a Bee or Wasp	To treat yourself after getting stung by a bee or wasp, you should seek medical assistance if you experience abdominal pain, difficulty breathing, tightness in your chest, coughing, diarrhea, dizziness, hives, palpitations, or swelling in your face. If you don't experience any of these symptoms, you can treat the sting at home. First, scrape your fingernail across the stinger if it's still in your skin to pull it out. Avoid squeezing the end of the stinger since it could release more venom into your system. Then, wash the area with soap and water, and apply an ice pack for 20 minutes once an hour to help with the pain. You can also apply a baking soda and water paste over the area, which can help reduce swelling and itching.	Assess your body's reaction to the sting. If you have had multiple stings in the past or this instance has multiple stings, you may experience an allergic reaction to the protein in the venom of the wasp or bee. The level of your reaction will determine whether further treatment or professional medical assistance is required. A mild reaction will be localized to the area where you were stung. You may develop a red, raised welt that is approximately ½ inch in diameter. However, some people will experience a red raised area up to two inches in diameter. The area may be itchy. The center is often white where the stinger punctured the skin. A moderate reaction includes the localized response you'll see in a mild reaction, with the addition of swelling of the affected area that extends beyond two inches in the day or two following the sting. Moderate reactions usually peak at 48 hours and last five to ten days. A severe reaction to a sting those symptoms in the mild and moderate levels of reaction with chronic hives (urticaria), diarrhea, coughing or difficulty breathing, swelling of the tongue and throat, weak and rapid pulse, reduced blood pressure, loss of consciousness and, potentially, death if not treated quickly. If you experience any of these symptoms, you should call your local emergency number. If you are aware of your allergy and have an epinephrine autoinjector (EpiPen, Auvi-Q or other), you should use it or have someone nearby use it on you. Press the autoinjector against your thigh and hold it there for a few seconds. Await emergency assistance. Determine what stung you. The initial first aid for a bee or wasp sting will depend upon which insect stung you. In both cases, however, first aid will consist of reducing the discomfort and swelling to the area. Wasps do not leave a stinger behind, while honey bees (though not bumblebees) will leave a barbed stinger behind. Administer first aid for stings without a stinger left behind. Wash the sting site gently with soap and water. Use cool water to help reduce the discomfort. Hot/warm water will increase the circulation to the area and increase the swelling. Then, apply a cold pack or ice to reduce swelling. If you are using ice, ensure that there is a towel between the ice and your skin to reduce the potential for cold damage to the skin's surface. Apply the cold pack or ice for 20 minutes once an hour until you feel relief. If the area is very itchy, you could take an oral antihistamine like Benadryl to relieve the itching. Alternatively, over-the-counter topical corticosteroid cream can also be used to reduce the histamine response in the area to the sting. If you feel pain in the area, you can take ibuprofen (Advil) or acetaminophen (Tylenol) as needed. Follow all dosing instructions on the bottle. Administer first aid for a sting where the stinger is left behind. First, you need to remove the sting. The stinger should be located in the center of the sting. There will be a venom sac attached which continues to pump out venom into your body after the bee has flown off. Do not pull the stinger out with your fingers or a tweezer. Squeezing the venom pouch will only drive the venom into your body faster. Instead, wash your hands and then scrape your fingernails across the stinger to catch it and pull it out without squeezing the sac. You could also scrape the sting site with a credit card edge to pull out the stinger. As with a wasp sting, wash the affected area with soap and water, apply a cold pack or ice to the area to reduce swelling and discomfort. If using an ice pack, place a towel between the ice and your skin to prevent cold damage to the tissue. Consider an over-the-counter antihistamine or topical corticosteroids to reduce the inflammation, itching and discomfort from the sting. Apply some home remedies. For ordinary stings that don't cause an allergic reaction (see below), home treatment after applying initial first aid is adequate. In most cases, the signs and symptoms associated with the sting should disappear within several hours or a day or two. There are, however, some home remedies that can provide relief from the sting of the sting, so to speak. These include: Make a paste of baking soda and water to place over the area. The baking soda helps to soothe the area, reduce the swelling and calm any itching. Apply honey to the area to reduce the swelling and discomfort. Honey has natural antibacterial properties. Crush a couple of cloves of garlic and apply the juice to the area. Garlic also has natural antibacterial properties. Lavender essential oil can help reduce the pain of bee and wasp stings when a couple of drops are applied topically to the affected area. Monitor your symptoms for a while. In most people the swelling and itching will recede in a matter of a few hours with a minor reaction and home treatment. The more severe the reaction, the longer the symptoms will last. Observe for the following symptoms, which can appear a few minutes or after an hour of the sting and indicate a severe reaction to the sting. Seek assistance if you experience any of them. Abdominal pain Anxiety Trouble breathing and wheezing Chest discomfort or tightness Coughing Diarrhea Dizziness Hives and itchy skin Palpitations Slurred speech Swelling of the face, tongue or eyes Unconsciousness Note that there have also been reports of unusual reactions to bee and wasp stings which include persistent symptoms lasting months, serum sickness, encephalitis (swelling of the brain) and secondary Parkinsonism (symptoms similar to Parkinson's Disease) after an anaphylactic shock. However, these are rare very responses to the sting of a bee or wasp. Distinguish between a wasp and a bee. Although wasps and bees can be mistaken for each other because both give painful stings, it is important to know and be able to identify the difference between them so you can administer the proper treatment. Bees and wasps are both members of the Hymenoptera (or winged membrane) order of insects, but look different and have different lifestyle habits: Their bodies are different proportions. Bees measure about 2.5 cm long and can have entirely black bodies. Others are black or brown with yellow stripes. Bees are also hairy. Wasps, meanwhile, have more narrow waists and smooth, shiny skin. Bees also have two wings, whereas wasps have four wings. Bee colonies are much larger with populations over 75,000 while wasps live in colonies of fewer than 10,000. Wasps hibernate through the winter months but bees do not hibernate, although they stay in the hive in the cold winter months. Wasps cannot produce honey but all species of bees can. Bees feed on pollen and plant products while wasps will eat pollen but also other insects. Honey bees can sting only once. Their stinger is barbed and stays in your body, causing it to be torn from the bee's body and left in your skin. Honey bees die after attacking. A single wasp or bumble bee can, however, sting multiple times. Determine what a sting looks like. Bee stings and wasp stings look very similar for the most part. Unless you see the insect sting you, it may not be apparent which one it was, so knowing what to look for in the sting can be helpful. You will experience instant and sharp burning pain at the site of the sting. A red welt will appear within minutes. A small white spot will be in the center of the welt where you were stung. The area may swell slightly around the sting. Look for a stinger in the center of the red area to determine if was a honeybee which stung you. Cater your treatment based on the sting and your body's reaction to it. Avoid provoking bees and wasps. Bees are usually docile and will attack only when provoked, while wasps are more naturally aggressive predators. In general, you should stay calm around bees and wasps. Walk away slowly from the area. Swatting at bees and wasps can cause them to sting. Preventing wasps and bumblebees from invading your outdoor space is the best way to prevent being stung. Wasps and bumblebees are attracted to sweet drinks, food, and garbage. Take your picnic food out only when you are ready to eat and put it away quickly when finished to avoid attracting these insects. Examine the inside of all drinks and food before eating or drinking to prevent being stung in the mouth. Use a tight lid on the garbage to prevent the insects from gathering inside the garbage and swarming you when you open the lid. Never work in the yard wearing yellow or white colors or floral prints as these attract the insects. Try wearing the color red because bees and wasps cannot see the color red. Do not wear loose clothing in which bees and wasps can get trapped. Minimize any attractive scents, such as perfume, colognes, scented soaps, hair spray and other fragrances. Do not walk barefoot. Wasps and bees are commonly found on the ground. Do not leave outside lights on longer than necessary at night. The light attracts insects and the predators that eat them — like wasps. Do not squash a wasp. The body of the wasp will release a chemical alarm that signals other wasps in the area to attack. Similarly, when a bee stings it releases a chemical that attracts other bees to the area.	Assess your body's reaction to the sting. Determine what stung you. Administer first aid for stings without a stinger left behind. Administer first aid for a sting where the stinger is left behind. Apply some home remedies. Monitor your symptoms for a while. Distinguish between a wasp and a bee. Determine what a sting looks like. Avoid provoking bees and wasps.
https://www.wikihow.com/Heal-Blisters-from-Rowing	How to Heal Blisters from Rowing	To heal blisters from rowing, start by applying moleskin pads or loose-fitting bandages over them so the blisters can heal undisturbed. It's usually best to avoid draining blisters to prevent the risk of infection, but if the blister is swollen, filled with fluid, or making it difficult to perform tasks, then you may want to consider lancing and draining it with sterile tools. Be sure to keep the blistered area clean with soap and water, especially if a blister has been torn open or drained. Apply antibiotic ointment over a torn blister and cover it with a clean bandage. Don't forget to change the bandage every day and remove it at night so the wound can breathe.	Apply a moleskin pad. Some people believe it's best to leave a blister as it is until it heals because the skin over the blister is like a natural band-aid that provides a barrier against infection. Draining a blister increases the risk of infection, especially if you have a chronic condition like diabetes, HIV, cancer, or heart disease. If you can avoid draining it, the best way to let a blister heal is by applying a moleskin pad to it and leaving it undisturbed. Use a doughnut-shaped moleskin pad. This will leave the area directly over the blister open so it can breathe and heal. Moleskin pads reduce friction to the surface of the blister, allowing it to heal on its own. Change the padding daily, and keep the area clean. Wear a loose-fitting bandage. A bandage will provide similar protection as a moleskin pad, but will completely cover the blister (instead of leaving the top area open). A simple adhesive bandage will do, and it should help keep the skin intact while also reducing some of the friction. A bandage is more protective, but may not reduce friction as well as a moleskin pad. You can use clean gauze and medical tape to cover larger blisters. Change the bandaging every day, and keep the area clean. Use a blister plaster. Blister plasters are not actually made of plaster. Instead, the blister plaster acts as a second layer of skin, and protects the blister even when your skin is wet. Rub the blister plaster gently between your hands (provided your hands are clean). This can help improve the blister plaster's ability to stick to your skin. Apply the plaster taut over the skin, covering the entire blister. This will help reduce pain while allowing the blister to heal. Change the plaster daily, and keep the area clean. Assess the blister. If you can keep the blister covered and it is not causing you any problems, it's best to let it heal on its own. However, if the blister is swollen, filled with fluid, and making it difficult to row or perform other tasks, then you may want to consider lancing and draining the blister in a sterile procedure. Only you will be able to accurately assess how functional your blister is. If you are unsure of how to proceed, or do not feel capable of safely draining the blister in a sterile manner, talk to your doctor about how to treat or manage the blister. Consider leaving the blister alone. Most blisters will heal on their own without being drained, so you might want to just leave it alone. Your body will reabsorb the fluid in the blister as it heals. If the blister is infected or extremely painful, then it may need to be drained. Do not drain your blister if you have HIV/AIDS, cancer, or heart disease. Wash your hands thoroughly. Before you touch your blister, it's important to have clean hands. This will help reduce the chances of your blister becoming infected. Wet your hands with clean, running water. Lather soap between your hands by rubbing them together. Scrub your hands for a minimum of 20 seconds. Be sure to apply soap under your fingernails, between your fingers, and on the fronts and backs of both hands. Rinse your hands free of all soap and dirt/debris under clean, running water. Dry your hands with a clean paper towel, and use the towel to turn off the faucet to avoid touching any unclean surfaces. If you do not have access to clean, running tap water, you can use an alcohol-based hand sanitizer to disinfect your hands. However, this will not be effective in removing dirt and grit from your hands. Apply enough hand sanitizer to cover both hands, then rub it over every surface of your hands and fingers. Let it air dry when you're finished. Disinfect the blister's surface. Even though you've washed your hands, it's a good idea to disinfect the blister itself. This is to prevent any outside bacteria from being introduced into the blister once you puncture the surface. Apply iodine to a clean cotton swab or a clean piece of paper towel. Swab the blister, including the area immediately surrounding the blister, until it is completely covered. Let the iodine air dry. Sterilize a clean, sharp needle. Now that your hands are clean and the blister has been swabbed with iodine, you'll need to sterilize the needle. It's very important that the needle be clean, sharp, and sterilized, because a dirty, rusty, or dull needle can cause injury or infection if you lance the blister with it. You can buy a sterile lancing needle from most drug stores, or sterilize a clean, sharp needle at home. There are numerous ways to sterilize a needle. Some people hold the needle over a flame, while others pour boiling water over the needle. The safest way to sterilize a needle is to simply pour some rubbing alcohol onto a clean cotton swab, wipe the needle down, and let it air dry. Puncture the blister. Using the now-sterilized needle, carefully puncture the blister near its edge (where it meets the rest of your finger or hand). Be careful not to stab the muscle or the deeper skin layers underneath your blister; you merely want to penetrate the outer layer of skin on the blister itself. Larger blisters may require multiple punctures. Be sure to insert the needle close to the edge of the blister for each incision. Let the fluid drain out. Getting the serum (fluid) out of your blister is the most important part of the process. You may need to gently massage some of the fluid out if it does not drain well on its own. Be gentle and do not rush through it. Take the time to ensure you get all the serum out of your blister. Leave the overlying skin from the blister in place. Removing it will cause a large, open sore that could easily become infected. Apply ointment and cover the blister. Your skin may be stressed from the injury and subsequent punctures. Applying a thin layer of ointment, such as Vaseline or Neosporin, to the blister can help your skin return to its normal, elastic state. An antibacterial ointment has the added benefit of cleaning the wound while it's covered. Don't apply too much ointment. The wound will need to be able to breathe, and excess ointment may reduce the flow of oxygen to your skin. Cover the blister with sterile, non-stick gauze, and use medical tape to keep it fixed in place. Be sure that you do not accidentally apply tape to the blister itself, as this may cause significant pain when you remove it. Change the dressings every day, and keep the area clean. Use more ointment as needed. Wash the area clean. Whether your blister has torn open or you lanced and drained it, it's important to keep the area as clean as possible. You should wash the area once each day, and any additional times as needed if the area is exposed to dirt or bacteria. This is particularly important if you continue to row, as river and lake water is full of bacteria that could easily cause an infection. Use soap and water. Do not use alcohol, peroxide, iodine, or any other wound cleanser, as these will irritate the skin and prolong the healing process. Follow the same guidelines for washing your blister wound as you would for washing your hands. Keep the flap of skin in place. If the flap of skin covering the deflated blister gets very dirty or if there is still pus remaining under it, you may need to remove the skin flap. It's best to let a doctor do this, as she will be able to ensure your injury does not get infected. Otherwise, leave the skin flap in place so it will help protect the open sore underneath. If the skin gets bent out of place, gently smooth it back into position over the open sore. Do not attempt to cut or pull away the skin at home, as this will drastically increase the risk of infection and prolong the healing process. Apply ointment and a clean bandage. Once you've washed the blister wound and smoothed the skin back in place, you'll need to protect the wound. Apply enough antibiotic ointment to sufficiently cover the blister, then cover it with a clean bandage. If your blister grows itchy or develops a rash, stop using the ointment and see your doctor as soon as possible. Change the bandage every day, and any time it gets dirty or wet. Keep the area clean. Remove the bandage at night to allow the wound to breathe. Take an over-the-counter pain reliever. You can take acetaminophen or ibuprofen to relieve some of the pain caused by the blister and to speed up healing. Read the manufacturer's instructions to find the proper dosage, or talk to your pharmacist or doctor if you are not sure how much to take. Maintain a proper handle grip. A common cause of rowing blisters, especially for those just starting out, is improper handle grip on the oars. If your grip is too tight, you're likely to develop blisters. If it's too loose, though, you could lose your hold on the handle altogether. Maintain a loose, relaxed grip, but keep proper form and a correct grip on the handle. It can take a long time to learn how to properly hold on to the handle. Don't get discouraged. Just keep with it, and ask your coach or a more experienced rower for advice on your technique. Keep your oars clean. A dirty or greasy oar handle will not necessarily cause blisters in and of itself. However, it can make it difficult for you to maintain the proper grip on your handles, which may cause blisters. Use an abrasive cleaning product and clean paper towels to scrub down the oar handles after every workout. Wear non-slip gloves. If you're comfortable rowing in gloves, a good pair of non-stick rowing gloves can help you keep on top of your rowing without the risk of blisters. You can find these at many sporting goods stores, or by searching online. Tape up your hands. If you're not comfortable wearing non-slip gloves while you row, you can try taping your hands instead. Use regular, store-bought duct tape for this, but make sure the tape is clean to prevent irritation or infection. Use a pair of scissors to cut a piece of duct tape. It should be slightly larger than the spot on your hand(s) that is prone to getting blisters. Apply the piece of duct tape to your palm. Press down in the center and smooth the tape in outward strokes to remove any lumps or wrinkles. Toughen up your skin. It may be painful and frustrating in the meantime, but eventually your hands will get tougher in the spots that are most prone to blistering. This can take time, and it's important to be patient while your skin toughens. Do not let it deter you; it's important to keep rowing until your skin builds up a tolerance to the motion. Increase your rowing time or intensity gradually. If you rush to lengthen the time you spend rowing or your intensity, you will easily cause blisters. Figure out a schedule for yourself that will allow you to increase your time and intensity slowly over several days or weeks. This is something you will have to determine for your own abilities and endurance. Don't be afraid to push yourself, but know your own limits.	Apply a moleskin pad. Wear a loose-fitting bandage. Use a blister plaster. Assess the blister. Consider leaving the blister alone. Wash your hands thoroughly. Disinfect the blister's surface. Sterilize a clean, sharp needle. Puncture the blister. Let the fluid drain out. Apply ointment and cover the blister. Wash the area clean. Keep the flap of skin in place. Apply ointment and a clean bandage. Take an over-the-counter pain reliever. Maintain a proper handle grip. Keep your oars clean. Wear non-slip gloves. Tape up your hands. Toughen up your skin.
https://www.wikihow.com/Stop-Being-Stubborn	How to Stop Being Stubborn	Being overly stubborn can harm your professional opportunities or social relationships, but you can avoid this by learning how to listen to others and how to compromise. Try to approach every discussion you have with an open mind, which will help you include other people's views in your decisions or actions. You can show others that you're listening to them by maintaining eye contact during your conversation and not interrupting them, because speaking over another person is a sign that you don't respect their opinion. As you listen to the other person, tell yourself that they're just as entitled to their opinion as you, even if you don't agree with it. If you're struggling to understand what they're saying, ask them questions to clarify what they're saying to show that you're trying to see their point of view. To avoid making conflicts worse, explain to them that your main concern is reaching an agreement, which will show them that you want to compromise.	Listen to the other side of the story. You may agree with some of the things you hear, and disagree with others. This gives you a chance to hear things you may not have heard before, and also increases your chances to reach an agreement. When both parties listen to each other, it makes things easier for everyone. If you are filling your head with all the reasons to say “no” as the person is talking, you are not actively listening. If it is difficult for you to listen, say to the other person, “Okay, I'm listening to what you have to say.” This will force you to pause and focus on the person talking. Maintain good eye contact. This will help you stay focused and also will convey your interest in hearing what the other person has to say. Do not interrupt the person talking. Instead, wait until he is done to address the matter. Repeat back in similar wording what you heard him say. Each time you do this it builds your credibility as an active listener. If the person talking is upset, happy, or passionate about what he is saying you can reply, “It sounds like you are really excited about this opportunity. I can see why this is so important to you.” People like to be heard and listened to. When you correctly repeat back to people what you heard, they know you have been listening. Remind yourself that you are not always right. While listening to someone talk, you may think everything he says is wrong because you know "the right way." There is a distinction between facts and opinions. Your opinion is not the only one that matters, nor is all your knowledge necessarily correct. You have to accept that you learn something new every day, even if it overwrites something you thought you already knew. You are entitled to have an opinion, but you cannot expect others to always agree with you. Repeating your opinion louder, or more often, or with judgmental slurs attached, will not convince anyone to agree with you. Everyone is entitled to their opinion. No one likes a know-it-all. If maintaining relationships with family, friends and business is important, you must consider your likability. Build trust in others by starting with small steps. Your stubbornness might be attributed to an overall mistrust of others. Most people are not going to take advantage of you the second you stop fighting tooth-and-nail for your objectives. For the ones who do, it becomes apparent very quickly and you can distance yourself. Remember, these types of people are the exception not the norm. There are ways to build your ability to trust others. Start with small steps that lead to larger ones. For example, if you think someone is incapable of being responsible, allow him to pick up your dry cleaning. This is a low-risk activity, but it will still allow you to build trust. Once the person demonstrates he is reliable, you can allow him to do more important tasks. Each time the person is successful your trust in him will grow. Even if someone forgets to do something for you, it doesn't mean they can't be trusted. Give him a second chance to earn your trust. You would appreciate the same concession. Keep an open mind by reserving judgement. Enter any discussion and situation with an open, neutral mindset, without prejudice, or judgement. Approach with the attitude that you are willing to hear what someone has to say so you can make a fair decision, rather than a rash decision. Considering everyone's input prevents closing off the possibility for a positive outcome. Prevent yourself from jumping to a negative conclusion by using visualization techniques. For example, close your eyes and envision a box filled with all the negative things you believe about the person or the event you are supposed to attend. Picture yourself closing the box and putting a lock on it and setting it to the side. Open your eyes and take a step forward symbolically moving away from your stubbornness. This should help you start the conversation with an open mind. Focus on the positive feeling that results from a good outcome and let that motivate you through the situation. Be humble. Don't always assign people less value than yourself. Think about everyone as being equal. It is okay to be confident and have healthy self-esteem, but over doing it can make you appear stubborn and closed-minded, not to mention snobby, self-centered and even mean. To be humble you need to approach every situation from the perspective that you are grateful for what you have. Don't boast about your accomplishments. Be appreciative for what you have and for the people in your life. If you never lose sight of this and uphold a high level of care for others, you will see your stubbornness decrease. Humility requires you to hold a modest opinion of yourself rather than an inflated one. For example, if you hold an advanced college degree, don't think less of someone who doesn't have one. There are all sorts of reasons why people don't go to college, and many of these people might be more successful than you. Realize that being stubborn is good in some cases. In an instance when you are certain you are right or are defending something of value, being stubborn is appropriate. Also, in a case when the decision is yours to make and the consequences greatly impact you, your stubbornness will serve you well. Given the right situation, stubbornness is useful. It is when it gets out of control and negatively affects you and those around you that you must find a way to temper it. If you or your attorney are fighting for your rights, being stubborn is an asset. If you need to have a medical procedure approved and you are getting push-back from your insurance company, being stubborn might save your life. Build rapport to lessen tension. Don't use stubbornness to get what you want, instead learn the essentials of negotiation so you can compromise, cooperate and collaborate. You will get what you want in a more effective and professional manner. Building rapport is the first step. People tend to let down their guard with those who share common interests. If you put your stubbornness aside and relate to people, they will respond in a positive way. Find common ground with people by simply noticing a photograph or piece of art on the wall or on the person's desk and say, “That is a great shot. It looks like a place I saw in New Mexico. Where did you take that?” To find common ground with people steer toward conversations about the weather, pets and children. People respond to people they can relate to. Find a subject matter the person can relate to and talk about it. Bringing the subject up again when you are leaving is a nice way to end the conversation. You will be asked questions that might make you feel defensive. Maintain your composure and say, “In the hope of resolving this issue, let me try to answer that question without getting defensive.” Saying it out loud will remind you to focus on continuing to build rapport. You might feel competitive toward the other person, so remember that good sportsmanship is relevant to any competitive situation. Maintain a professional, friendly tone throughout the conversation. Decrease misunderstandings to increase resolution. Make it your goal to understand what the other person is saying and what they want. If something doesn't make sense to you, ask for clarification. Next, express your desires in a way that will help the other person understand what you want. Once both parties understand each other, it will be easier to mold a positive outcome. If there is something that you don't understand say, “I don't know if I'm understanding why you need to use the car next week. Are you saying that you won't be able to make it to work, or will you get fired because of it?” You may need to apologize for a misunderstanding. For example you might say, “I am sorry I created a misunderstanding. Let me see if I can rephrase it.” Build legitimate support for your position. Your stubborn demands have probably lacked rational support if stubbornness has been your main tactic for controlling a situation. Others have probably given up trying to resolve an issue with you because you continually force your position on to them. Saying, “Because I said so,” in a negotiation isn't acceptable and works against reaching an agreement. You will need to support your position with evidence that will help justify what you want. For example, if your significant other wants you to go with her to a work party and you don't want to you could say, “I know it seems like I'm just being stubborn, but the reason I don't want to go to the party is because I don't know anyone, and I would rather you go with your friends and have fun. You won't have to worry about whether I'm having fun or not. So go, I want you to have fun.” Facilitate and celebrate agreements. If you approach every situation with the intent of saying “no,” it will hinder an agreement. Conflicts are resolved much quicker if you start with an attitude of, “How can we make this work?” You aren't giving up any power by using this approach. In fact, arriving at a solution in an expedient manner is a powerful accomplishment. If you have been at odds with a roommate and you resolve a longstanding issue say, “I'm so happy we solved this problem. Let's go out for coffee and dessert. My treat.” Whenever you have had a struggle with someone, always acknowledge his willingness to work on a solution. For example say, “I really appreciate you working with me to get this issue resolved. I hope we can put it behind us now.” Acknowledge when you have put your stubbornness aside and it has made a difference. For example say, “I really tried to not be stubborn and I think it helped. Do you?” You are not admitting a weakness. Making a change is a show of strength. Agree to disagree. There will be times when you won't be able to resolve a conflict. If you make every effort to fully participate, then that is all that you can do. You may want to make additional attempts at a resolution. Unfortunately, there are times when you must accept it and move on. You can always take a break from the action to allow yourself and the other person to think, cool down, and process the potential outcomes. Sometimes the best outcome is to understand that you will never understand. This will help you mentally get past the issue. Explore and identify the losses of your life. Stubbornness can be a reaction to losing someone or something in your life. You may be self-protecting against any further loss because the initial loss was extremely painful. Things, people, or family status may have been pulled out from under you. Subconsciously you think if you hold your ground on everything, you won't get hurt. The root of a person's stubbornness varies from person to person. Possible reasons include: feelings of inferiority; there may be a secret being protected; a desire to get attention from others; a person is afraid to give up power. Situations that may trigger a person's stubbornness include: playing a competitive game; a schoolmate might be flunking out of school and doesn't want anyone to know so he refuses to talk about his classes; a person gets into a debate over something and takes a side just to antagonize everyone involved; a roommate refuses to share responsibility in an issue over expenses. The world filled with stubbornness you are trying to create is not healthy. You will eventually end up feeling isolated, depressed and may suffer other psychological challenges. Did you experience a loss of control when a parent left, a spouse was killed, or your dream job was eliminated? Rather than remain stubborn, learn new and healthier coping strategies including but not limited to: participate in healthy activities that require you to open up, learn about the grieving process, or meditate. Are you passive aggressive because someone in your life always told you what to do and you didn't like it? Now, when someone asks you to do something you say you will, then you stubbornly drag your feet to make the other person angry. Follow through on your promises as passive aggressive behaviors will undermine and deteriorate any relationship. Ask yourself why you won’t let go of being right. Insecurity drives a lot of human behavior and can lead to anxiety and depression. Do you fear others will think you are uneducated, a low-achiever, or somehow less of a human being if you show your vulnerabilities? Believing you are right when it is obvious that you are not, will ultimately reinforce your insecurities. Admit that you are wrong when it is justified. You will see it is not the end of the world. In fact, you will feel the relief and begin to understand that being stubborn takes a toll on your thoughts, emotions and relationships. Determine what you hope to gain by being stubborn. Being overly stubborn creates a barrier between you and others. Are you pushing people away? Does the barrier make you feel safe? What are the possible pay-offs, and are the results of your actions healthy? Is your stubbornness working against you? Do you want stability and togetherness, yet all your actions push others away? The answer is: it isn't working for you. Be honest with yourself and write a list of the things you hope to gain from being stubborn. For example, do you think it will make you feel superior to others, that it will keep life from changing, or that you want to prove that no one can tell you what to do? Expecting these outcomes is not realistic. Examining your flawed thinking is essential for change to happen. Write a second list of the things you can do to stop being stubborn, and create the unshackled life you want to live. Seek help if you are struggling. It takes bravery and courage to ask for help. If you are struggling with controlling your stubbornness, contact a trusted source to talk about getting help. There are resources available to you through a private provider such as a counselor or doctor. Talking with someone will help you sort out your struggles and develop an effective approach to handle anything. If you are becoming increasingly isolated, call a counselor or doctor to make an appointment. If you have suffered a great loss, being stubborn can be considered normal for a limited period of time. However, this may be a sign that you may be suffering from unresolved grief, therefore grief counseling will help. Art therapy is also available and can be extremely beneficial.	Listen to the other side of the story. Remind yourself that you are not always right. Build trust in others by starting with small steps. Keep an open mind by reserving judgement. Be humble. Realize that being stubborn is good in some cases. Build rapport to lessen tension. Decrease misunderstandings to increase resolution. Build legitimate support for your position. Facilitate and celebrate agreements. Agree to disagree. Explore and identify the losses of your life. Ask yourself why you won’t let go of being right. Determine what you hope to gain by being stubborn. Seek help if you are struggling.
https://www.wikihow.com/Build-a-Handrail	How to Build a Handrail	Building a handrail is relatively easy if you have a basic tool kit and experience making home improvements. You'll first need to measure the rise and run of your stairs to work out how long your handrail should be. You can buy premade handrails made of wood, metal, or synthetic materials in most hardware stores. If you're mounting a handrail on a wall, you'll need brackets to hold it. If there's no wall there, you'll need newel posts and balusters to support the rail. Before you screw your rails onto the wall or balusters, finish the rails with a primer to protect them. You can also apply paint or a stain for a more stylish look.	Consult your local building authority to learn about building codes. Learn whether you need a permits for handrail construction and whether there are standard specifications for handrails in your area. It is important to ensure that your home improvement projects are compliant with codes set in place for residential buildings. If your work requires a permit, make sure to obtain one before adding onto your home in any way. This prevents any issues that may come about with inspections, potential penalties or violations, and issues that could come about if you ever tried selling your home in the future. If it does not require a permit, move forward with your building project. Measure the rise and the run of your stairs. The run of the railings should be measured from the top step to the bottom step of the stairs, along its diagonal. For a wall-mounted installation, add an additional 2 to 4 inches to each end to use as returns (also called the ends) for people to grab during use of the handrail. The rise of the railing should be measured according to local building authority codes; this is usually between 30-36 inches, or alternately at 36 inches, at the average height of people. Measure the rise at 36 inches from the same place at each step, and mark its position with a pencil or chalk. Use a tape measure to draw a straight line on the wall, connecting the 36-inch marks you placed at the top of the stairs in descending order to the very bottom step. Measure where you intend to place brackets that will later be screwed into the wall. Mark the bracket locations using a level to make sure that the brackets are plumb. Decide on the style of railing. If you're choosing to incorporate a handrail indoors, chances are it is an extension of the staircase you already have and will hang on the wall opposite the stairs. Wood is the most commonly used material for indoor handrails. Wood is sturdy and attractive, making it a good fit for indoor use. Wood is also an option for an outdoor handrail, but it may be prone to rotting in humid climates. Untreated wood will need an oil treatment before installation. Use tung oil, linseed oil, or a product based in one of those oils to coat the wood. Avoid water-based products because although they make wood water and moisture resistant, with time it peels and degrades. Metal railings are decay resistant and great for areas frequented by termite pests. Synthetic railings can be shaped and molded to your style needs and can even be made to look like wood. This option is expensive compared to other handrail options, but also more durable. Shop for a handrail at your local hardware store. In most hardwood stores handrails come readily available, depending on the type of material you want to use. Bring your measurements with you so you can buy the right size. If you have trouble locating the size you need in a ready-made manufactured style and size, request a custom railing. Stores like Home Depot, Lowe's, and Amazon are common sellers of handrail and stair products. If you're installing a wood railing, you can bring home wood samples from your local hardware store to match them to the wood fixtures in your home. Bear in mind that wood does not have to match perfectly, it just has to coordinate. Gather your supplies. In addition to the handrail, you will need at least two sets of brackets and screws. You will also need a drill to complete the installation, and a saw if you intend to cut your own returns. Remember that for a wall-mounted installation, the handrail should be 8 inches longer than your measurements, to account for the 4-inch returns you'll cut off on either end. If you buy a ready-made handrail, it will likely come with brackets and screws, too. If not, purchase brackets intended for a handrail installation. Cut the ends off of your railing. Use a saw to cut the ends (approximately 4 inches from each end) from the railing at a 45-degree angle. Once you've installed the handrail, the returns will be attached to either end to serve as hand grips. Reverse the placement of the cuts so that the pieces will be able to face the wall at the top and bottom of the rail. You may want to ask an employee at the hardware store to cut the returns for you if you aren't handy with a saw. Install the brackets. Line up the brackets and use a drill to mount them to the wall Repeat until all brackets are securely installed. Be sure that the brackets are vertically plumb before drilling them into place. It's important to make sure that the brackets are installed securely. If they seem loose in the wall, the handrail may not be sturdy enough to support people's weight as they use it. You may want to purchase extra brackets to ensure that the handrail will be held securely in place. Place the railing on top of the brackets. Hold the railing in position against the wall along the length of the chalk line. Secure the handrail into its position on the brackets by placing screws into the holes drilled on the railing's underside. Loosely-secured railings are a serious hazard issue, so be sure that the rail can bear the weight that will be imposed on it daily. If the railing is loose, reinforce the railing from below by applying a metal corner bracket there. Install the returns. Place the angled edge of the return against the end of the rail. The flat end of the return should rest against the wall, forming a hand grip. Use wood glue and apply it to the cut edges before securing the return to the rail. Hold it in place for a few minutes to ensure it is securely attached. Repeat with the other return on the other end of the rail. For extra enforcement, hammer in 2-3 nails to connect the returns to the rails. You may need to shorten the returns by an inch or two to ensure that they fit securely against the wall. Prepare your deck or porch for building. Inspect the condition of your foundation. If repairs need to be made to floorboards, do so now. The less work done after the rail installation, the better in order to make sure the handrail stays intact for as long as possible. Buy your materials. To install a handrail using balusters, rather than installing one on a wall, you'll need quite a few materials in addition to the handrail you have chosen. If you're installing double handrails, one on either side of your set of stairs, double the quantity of supplies you purchase. Your handrail should be a 2x4 piece of wood that is no longer than 8 feet long, according to most building codes. Purchase two newel posts, the supporting posts that hold up the rail; you'll need one for the top of the stairs and one for the base. The standard size of a post is 4x4 inches and 5 feet long. Purchase one baluster per stair step. Balusters are the spindles that connect the rail to each step. The height of the balusters should be between 30 and 36 inches, depending on how high you want the railing to be. If there are already posts and/or balusters in place, count the total numbers of pieces you will need to replace, if any. For secure installation of newel posts, you'll need a post-hole digger and concrete mix to pour into the holes. Purchase sure-tite fasteners for secure installation of balusters in the steps. You'll need wood glue or epoxy glue to fasten the handrail to the posts. Depending on the style of railing you install, you may need additional reinforcement supplies, such as a finish nail gun and a screwdigger. Install the newel posts. If you're replacing an old handrail, your set of stairs may already have newel posts at the top and bottom that you can use to support your new handrail. If not, you'll need to install posts before you can install your rail. To install a post in the ground, use a post-hole digger to dig a hole least 18 inches in depth in front of the bottom step. Fill the hole halfway to the top with mixed, wet concrete. Stand a newel post in the hole. If you're installing two posts, use a 4-foot level to stand on the top of both posts to ensure that they posts are perfectly aligned with one another vertically. Use the same level to ensure that the posts are horizontally aligned and level, too. Wait 24 hours for the concrete to set before installing the handrail. To install a top post to a wooden deck, place post over the stair stringer in a plumb position. Use four timber lock screws and wood glue to secure it into place. Finish it with finishing nails. Install the balusters at the appropriate point on each stair. Balusters should be spaced no more than 4 inches apart. Use a pencil to mark the place where each baluster will be installed. Make sure the balusters are lined up with the newel posts at either end of the stairs. Drill holes into each step, then thread the holes with sure-tite fasteners. If your balusters don't already have holes, you'll need to drill them. Drill a standard sized access hole into the bottom of the balusters. Into the side of each baluster, drill another access hole horizontally to intersect the first hole. Set each baluster, or spindle, onto the sure-tite fasteners on each step. Tighten them down with a wrench. Attach the handrail to the newel posts and balusters. Apply wood glue or epoxy glue to the top of the posts. Fit the handrail into place. Wait 24 hours for the glue to dry before using the handrail, then secure the handrail and balusters together one at a time with a finish nail gun. For extra reinforcement, you can screw the handrail to the post with a Screwdigger, using a wood screw of 100-120 mm in size. Position the screw behind the post and make sure that it is going through both the posts and the handrail. Apply an exterior primer to your finished handrail. If the handrail is unfinished, finishing it is the last step. After allowing the glue to dry completely, use a sturdy paintbrush to apply a topcoat of primer onto the railing from the top down, ensuring that all surfaces and nooks are covered. After the topcoat dries, apply a second coat. If you wish to paint your stairs and railing, use an oil based paint because it preserves the wood grain while protecting the wood against harsh weather conditions. Use the same technique as the primer and topcoat when making the application. If staining is more your preference than painting, choose a wood stain that contains a deck sealer to preserve the look and feel of the wood.	Consult your local building authority to learn about building codes. Measure the rise and the run of your stairs. Decide on the style of railing. Shop for a handrail at your local hardware store. Gather your supplies. Cut the ends off of your railing. Install the brackets. Place the railing on top of the brackets. Install the returns. Prepare your deck or porch for building. Buy your materials. Install the newel posts. Install the balusters at the appropriate point on each stair. Attach the handrail to the newel posts and balusters. Apply an exterior primer to your finished handrail.
https://www.wikihow.com/Irrigate-a-Foley-Catheter	How to Irrigate a Foley Catheter	To irrigate a Foley catheter, place towels under the person's buttocks and a pan below the catheter tubing, and then sterilize the connection site with an alcohol pad. Then, disconnect the tubing and insert an empty, sterile syringe into the open end of the catheter. Pull on the syringe to remove excess urine. Replace the empty syringe with a catheter tip syringe filled with normal saline. Push the saline into the catheter, then pull as much as you can back out. When finished, reconnect the tubing.	Wash your hands with soap and water for at least 15 seconds. When finished, dry off with clean paper towels. If necessary, alcohol hand sanitizer or towelettes may be used instead. Though not always necessary for home irrigation, you can put on disposable latex gloves for extra safety. Open a new catheter tip syringe. To prevent infection, only use an unopened, sterile catheter tip syringe unless directed otherwise by your clinician. To make sure that the syringe remains sterile, do not allow the tip of the syringe to touch your skin or any other object. Catheter tip syringes can be purchased at most medical supply stores, drug stores, and supermarkets. They are typically sold in multi-syringe bundles for less than $1 per individual unit. Draw saline into the syringe. Place the tip of your syringe into a bottle of normal saline solution. Then, pull back on the plunger of the syringe. Continue pulling the plunger until you have filled the syringe with the amount of saline prescribed by your doctor, typically around 10 millilitres (0.35 imp fl oz). Look for saline solutions at most medical supply and drug stores. They typically cost between $4 and $9 per bottle. If you can't afford saline solution, use an unopened bottle of water instead. Do not use homemade saline solutions since they will increase your chances of infection. While handling the bottle of saline solution, you should only touch the outside of the container. Do not get your fingers on the top or inside of the bottle. Tap the syringe to remove any air bubbles. Remove the syringe from the saline bottle and hold it vertically. Then, tap on the barrel with your knuckles to loosen any air bubbles. Place the syringe back into the bottle, then carefully push the plunger to get rid of the trapped air. If necessary, pull the plunger back again to replace any lost saline. Cover the syringe and set it to the side. To make sure it stays sterile, place the tip cover included with your syringe onto the catheter tip. If a cover was not included, place the syringe back into its sterile packaging. Set it aside for later use. Clean your hands a second time. For safety, you should wash your hands again even if you already did so while preparing the syringe. Wash your hands with soap and warm water, scrubbing well for at least 15 seconds. Dry them with a clean paper towel when finished. If you are wearing latex gloves, replace them with a fresh pair. Place towels and a pan under the catheter. To absorb excess liquid and urine, place several towels beneath the connection site joining the catheter to the drainage tubing. Then, position a pan beneath the open end of the catheter connection. This basin will collect urine and other fluids that escape the catheter as you irrigate it. Clean the catheter. Scrub the connection site between the catheter and drainage tubing with an alcohol pad, cleaning the area for 15 to 30 seconds before continuing. Allow the area to air dry on its own. Do not dry it with towels, and do not attempt to speed up the drying process by blowing on the area with your breath or a fan. Separate the catheter from the drainage tubing. Gently twist the catheter off the drainage tubing to disconnect the two pieces. Place the end of the drainage tubing on a clean towel. Position the catheter over the collection basin you just prepared, but do not let the open end of the catheter actually touch the basin. Make sure the basin is lower than the end of the catheter and the person's abdomen. Remove excess urine from the catheter using an empty syringe. Place a sterile, empty syringe into the open end of the catheter that's over the basin. Gently pull the plunger back to check for excess urine. If you draw urine into the syringe, continue pulling to remove the urine currently inside the catheter. Remove as much urine as possible before continuing. Try to get the person wearing the catheter to sit in an upright position so more urine comes out. Dispose of urine in a toilet or other clean, sterile waste container. Switch to the saline syringe. Remove the empty syringe from the catheter and dispose of it. Then, grab the syringe filled with saline solution and, if necessary, remove the cap. Insert the saline-filled syringe into the catheter opening and twist the syringe until the connection feels secure. To keep it sterile, remember to avoid touching the end of the syringe. Push the saline into the catheter. Push the plunger down to insert all of the saline into the catheter. Stop if you feel any resistance. When finished, pull back on the syringe plunger to remove as much of the saline solution as you can. If you encounter resistance, stop and call a doctor for help, as they may need to change the catheter or use a different technique to irrigate it. Clean the catheter connection site and drainage tubing. Scrub both the catheter connection site and drainage tubing with an alcohol wipe for about 15 seconds. Let them dry on their own, and do not attempt to speed up the process by drying them with towels or blowing on them with your mouth or a fan. Make sure to remove the drainage tubing cap before cleaning it. Remove the syringe and reinsert the tubing. To remove the syringe, pinch the end of the catheter while untwisting the syringe from the catheter cap. Then, insert the tubing back into the catheter. When everything is secure, discard the used syringe. Wash your hands one more time. For safety, wash your hands with soap and warm water for 15 seconds, then dry them with paper towels. Though this may seem like overkill, it will protect you from any bacteria from the catheter and urine. Make sure the urine is flowing properly. After irrigation, urine should flow from the catheter with ease. If urine has not started flowing after 15 minutes, repeat the flushing process. If the problem persists, call your doctor.	Wash your hands with soap and water for at least 15 seconds. Open a new catheter tip syringe. Draw saline into the syringe. Tap the syringe to remove any air bubbles. Cover the syringe and set it to the side. Clean your hands a second time. Place towels and a pan under the catheter. Clean the catheter. Separate the catheter from the drainage tubing. Remove excess urine from the catheter using an empty syringe. Switch to the saline syringe. Push the saline into the catheter. Clean the catheter connection site and drainage tubing. Remove the syringe and reinsert the tubing. Wash your hands one more time. Make sure the urine is flowing properly.
https://www.wikihow.com/Be-a-Journalist	How to Be a Journalist	To be a good journalist, start by improving your writing skills by writing every day and getting feedback on your writing from a teacher or other writers. In addition to your writing skills, you'll need strong interpersonal skills, like the ability to talk to strangers and network with other journalists. Additionally, since journalists get information from a variety of sources, know how to gather, assess, and organize your own research. Finally, verify your sources by getting secondary accounts, or independently verifying that their stories line up.	Write every day. Journalism consists mostly of writing, whether it's an article or live-tweeting a story. You need to be a strong writer who has a voice, and the way to get there is practice. Daily writing allows you to get your practice and helps build your confidence, which is key to succeeding as a writer. Keep a journal or log of your activities. Start a blog. Offer to help your friends and relatives by completing writing tasks to help them with work or self-promotion. For example, create a short newsletter for your club or church. Build your grammar skills. You need to be able to proofread and edit your writing so that you can produce clean copy. Use a spellchecker to avoid misspellings, and proofread to make sure that you don't have any typos. Make sure any revisions and edits are made to the article, but check to ensure that your word processor isn't setup to show comments or changes. Double-check for homophones and often-confused words that might not show up on a spellcheck. Familiarize yourself with the Associated Press style guide. Use online resources like Purdue's OWL and Grammar Bytes to improve your grammar. Use sample texts to help you develop new skills. Find articles that you like and try to write your own article in a similar way. This is called using a mentor text. Your mentor text serves as a model for how an article should be written. Choose a style to emulate, or experiment by writing the same story in different writing styles. Outline an article that you think is formatted well, and write your own article in the same format. Use sample texts to practice new ways of writing, but make sure that you don't try to pass off someone's writing or unique style as your own. Be speedy and accurate. Journalists have a quick turn-around time between assignment and deadline. Think about how fast news is reported after it happens. To be a good journalist, you need to be able to meet your readers' expectations by producing speedy and accurate work. Practice by setting a time limit for yourself to complete writing tasks. When your time is up, stop writing, even if you're not finished. Assess your performance to see if you're meeting your goals. Try to improve each time you do the exercise. Get feedback on your writing. Ask people you trust to review your writing and offer their critiques. If you can get a teacher or tutor to help you, then take advantage of their knowledge base to help you improve your writing skills. While it might be hard to have your writing critiqued, it's necessary if you want to grow as a writer. Join a writing group that does regular critiques. You'll get help from people who know what they're talking about and meet other writers. Look for a group on social media or http://www.meetup.com. Take a writing class. Your best option for improving your writing is a class. Even accomplished writers still take classes to gain new skills or push themselves to try different forms of writing. Check with your school, find a workshop, or look for an online class. You can take a basic writing course or one that's targeted to a specific area. You may want to take classes outside of journalism to help you build different skills. Try https://www.edx.org/ for free classes from elite colleges and universities. Form good relationships with others. Some of your best sources of information will be people you meet. Be open to meeting new people and hearing what they have to say. They may be a source, or they might give you a good idea about a story lead. The more people you're connected to, the easier it will be to find a source for your story. Stay close to your mentors, teachers, and fellow students because you never know when that person could help you with a story or a job. Use social media, such as LinkedIn and Facebook, to stay connected to people. Talk to people you meet. For example, share small talk with people who are sitting at the same table as you are in a coffee shop, sharing your elevator, or waiting in the same line as you are. Say, “Is this your first time coming here?” Network with other journalists. Learn new skills and find opportunities by reaching out to other journalists. Don't just limit yourself to people you meet. Look up your journalist idols and reach out to them. You can network both in person and through correspondence, such as email or social media. When you contact your idol, explain that you are pursuing journalism and use their work as an example of good journalism. You could say, “As a developing journalist, I consider your work to be a model of the work I aspire to produce.” Tell your idol your purpose for contacting them so that they know that you aren't just sending fanmail. You could say, “I hope that by following you and your work that I can reach the same levels of success that you have.” Develop confidence. When you're putting yourself out there - whether through your writing or when meeting new people - confidence is essential to helping you be successful. You need to be able to approach others and form relationships that help you, and you also need to project that you know your worth. Don't compare yourself to others; instead, focus on being who you are and sharing that with the world. When you catch yourself thinking negative thoughts about yourself, turn the thought around and make it positive. It's normal to think bad thoughts about yourself sometimes, so don't feel bad about it. Tell yourself, “I have important and interesting things to share with the world,” or “I'm just as valuable as anyone else.” Go above and beyond what’s required. Going above and beyond is about more than just doing what's necessary to get a story. You need to be more than just a good writer in today's journalism market. When you write a story, don't stop at the minimum to get the job done. Think about what you'd want out of the article if you were a reader, and try to give them that. Make yourself more marketable by expanding your technical skills. Knowing how to use more programs, do basic coding, and use creative software will help you get your voice out there and will make you more marketable. If possible, beat your deadlines. While you don't want to rush your work, you do want to provide your publisher with a speedy product so that your article will be timely. Make sacrifices. You may have to give up your free time or miss out on fun events with friends in order to meet your journalism goals. Writing is usually a solitary activity, so it may be a sacrifice for you to miss out on that social time. You may also need to sacrifice earning potential or social connections if you write about polarizing issues. When you're faced with sacrifices, ask yourself what's more important to you. Ask, “Where do I want to be in five years? How will this sacrifice impact my five-year goal?” Conduct your own research. Journalists get information from a variety of sources, so you'll need to know how to gather, assess, and organize information on your own. Research consists of more than just doing a Google search. You need to be able to find the information you need in print sources, by talking to knowledgeable individuals, and by sorting through relevant materials, such as letters, memos, or file documents. Expand your knowledge base. Being able to understand various topics, sniff out stories, and look at things from various perspectives are all necessary to be a good journalist. Consider getting a degree in something other than journalism to make you a more informed writer. If you want to cover world events, consider studying languages. Stay up-to-date on news and events. Read or watch the news, and stay plugged in to politics, current events, and pop culture. Anything can be relevant from a journalistic standpoint, so keep yourself open and learn the current trends. You'll produce better stories and get your readers what they want if you know what's going on. Verify your sources. Before reporting information that you find, make sure that it's from a reliable source. When possible, try to find a second source that confirms the information. If you receive facts from a source, independently verify that those facts line up. For example, if someone tells you that they knew the subject of your story when they were in college, make sure they were really in college together. Maintain independence from your sources and subjects. While you will likely build relationships with some of your sources or the people you write about, make sure those relationships don't influence how you portray them in your work. For example, if your best friend works as a police officer, then getting your crime information from them will likely be biased toward your friend's opinion. For example, don't take payments from a source or a subject of an article. If you are writing an investigative article about a corporation, you'll lose your independence if you allow them to hire you for freelance work during your investigation. If you have someone who gives you inside information about the local crime beat, keep a professional relationship with that person. If you start to get too personal, then you may unknowingly have a bias toward them. If you get too close to a source, you can always ask them to help you find a new one so that your information stays independent. Start a blog. Practice your journalistic abilities by running your own blog. In addition to being a great place for you to share your voice and flex your skills, it will also help you promote yourself to people who might hire you or may buy your stories. Be active on social media. Build a strong and clean social media presence across platforms. Make sure that you are posting meaningful information on a regular basis. You should be able to share your handles with potential employers, so be mindful about what you post. Apply for internships. Both paid and unpaid internships are available in journalism. If you don't need the money, then an unpaid internship might be a great way for you to get experience without as much competition. Paid internships are competitive, but you'll be getting paid to do what you love. If you get turned down for an internship, contact the employer to ask if you can still submit a story or two for consideration. Join the school paper. If you're in school, take any position that is available, even if it's not what you really want to do. If you do a good job, you'll likely get more and better opportunities. Build a portfolio. Include your bio, interests, and examples of your work. If you build an online portfolio, include links to sites that feature your work, as well as links to your social media accounts.	Write every day. Build your grammar skills. Use sample texts to help you develop new skills. Be speedy and accurate. Get feedback on your writing. Take a writing class. Form good relationships with others. Network with other journalists. Develop confidence. Go above and beyond what’s required. Make sacrifices. Conduct your own research. Expand your knowledge base. Stay up-to-date on news and events. Verify your sources. Maintain independence from your sources and subjects. Start a blog. Be active on social media. Apply for internships. Join the school paper. Build a portfolio.
https://www.wikihow.com/Apply-Stick-Foundation	How to Apply Stick Foundation	To apply stick foundation, twist the tube so the foundation barely sticks up over the edge. Swipe or dot the foundation onto your forehead, on the bridge of your nose, under both eyes, and on your chin and cheeks. Dotting the foundation will give you lighter coverage than swiping it. Blend the foundation from the center of your face outward, using light sweeping motions, then set the foundation with powder.	Find a foundation that matches your complexion. Your complexion is the shade of your skin and can change from sun exposure or skin conditions. You always want to try a foundation on to make sure it matches your complexion. Standing in natural light, swipe potential foundations across your cheek or near your jawline. The right foundation will disappear, blending perfectly with your skin. If you can't find a foundation that matches, try choosing the shades that are closest (one slightly darker, one slightly lighter), and mixing them to make a perfect match. You can also buy the lighter foundation and add a bronzing powder later to warm it up. Find a foundation that matches your skin tone. Just as important as matching your complexion, your foundation needs to work with the undertones of your skin. Generally categorized as warm, neutral, or cool, your skin undertone always remains the same (unlike your complexion, which can change with exposure to the sun). Buying a foundation for the wrong undertone will make your foundation look off, even if it perfectly matches your complexion. Find your undertone by looking at the veins on your inner wrist. If they are green, your undertones are warm (yellow). If they are purple or blue, your undertones are cool (blue or pink). If you can't tell if the veins are purple or green, your undertone is neutral (a mix of yellow, gold, pink, or blue). Look for foundations that are specifically made for your undertone and labeled for a warm, cool, or neutral skin tone. If the foundation brand doesn't mention undertone, try to find one that matches your undertone. Look for yellow or gold for warm; pink, red or blue for cool; neutrals can experiment with foundations with undertones from both ends of the cool/warm spectrum. Figure out your skin type. Your type of skin can influence which foundation is right for you. Stick foundations may be made for all skin types (check the labeling), but for the most part they're best for oily or combination skin. If you don't know whether your skin is dry, oily, normal, or combination, wash your face with a gentle cleanser and notice how your skin feels after 15-20 minutes. If your face feels moist or oily, your skin is oily. If your skin feels tight, tingly, or dry, you have dry skin. If your skin feels soft and clean, you have normal skin. If your skin feels oily in your T-zone (your forehead and nose), then you have combination skin. Start with a clean face. Before applying makeup it is especially important to wash your face with a gentle cleanser formulated for your skin type. Removing dirt and oil from your face will help keep your pores clear and lessen the likelihood of blackheads. Make sure your hands are washed and cleaned as well, as you will be touching your face quite a lot and you don't want to transfer dirt or bacteria. Use a lightweight moisturizer on your face and neck. The moisturizer will keep the foundation from drying out your skin. A little moisturizer can also make it easier for you to spread the foundation over your skin since the stick is solid and more difficult to smooth evenly over your face than liquid foundations. Avoid moisturizers that are too rich. A day cream or heavy moisturizer that makes your skin oily can cause your foundation to oxidize and turn darker or even orange. Apply a primer to shrink pores, smooth over fine lines, and make your foundation last longer. Primer is an optional step, but most beauty experts think it's worth it. The primer gives the foundation something to cling to so it will stay put all day. Plus, it smooths your skin so your foundation won't settle into wrinkles or dry spots. Choose a foundation that is right for your skin type (oily, normal, dry). Use primer if you live in a humid climate or plan to visit one. The primer will keep your makeup from smudging and "melting" off your face. Some foundation sticks come with primer already added. Twist the tube so that the foundation just barely sticks up over the edge. You don't want the foundation stick to come out as far as a lipstick would. The farther out you twist the foundation, the easier it will be for it to snap off or break during application. If you are worried about bacteria on the end of the foundation stick, wipe the top with a cotton pad dipped in alcohol or a makeup cleansing wipe. Swipe or dot the foundation on your face. Swipe it once across your forehead, on the bridge of your nose, under both eyes, your chin, and cheeks. You may want to add a little near your jawline as well so you can blend the foundation down to your neck. The foundation is not meant to be a mask--it is supposed to even out your complexion. Applying the foundation to these specific spots will give you enough product to cover your face and still look natural. Dotting the foundation, as opposed to swiping, will put less product on your face and give you a lighter layer. If you're not sure how much foundation you need, try dotting it on first. It's easier to add more later than to take it off. If you don't want to put the foundation directly on your face, you can use your fingertips to apply it to your skin. The heat from your fingers will warm up the foundation and may make it even easier to apply. Try not to apply foundation with a makeup sponge, as this absorbs a lot of foundation and is a waste of product. Blend the foundation using clean fingertips. You don't want to rub the foundation into your skin as you blend, rather, you want to sweep and pat the makeup. The center of your face usually has the most discoloration, so make sure you have ample coverage there. Always blend the foundation outward, toward the edges of your face. Blend, blend, then blend some more. This step is key to getting a natural-looking application of foundation. Check your hairline and neck to make sure you don't have an obvious line where your makeup ends. Use your ring fingers to blend the foundation--it is the weakest finger and will ensure you don't pull on your skin too much. You can use a makeup sponge or brush to help blend your makeup if you would prefer not to use your fingers. If you have any blemishes or dark circles under your eyes and want a little more coverage, simply dab a little more foundation in these areas and blend gently. Set your foundation with powder and apply the rest of your makeup. Some foundation sticks are mattes, which should stay in place on their own. Otherwise, a dusting of translucent powder will set the foundation and absorb excess oil, which can cause your foundation to oxidize and turn dark or orange.	Find a foundation that matches your complexion. Find a foundation that matches your skin tone. Figure out your skin type. Start with a clean face. Use a lightweight moisturizer on your face and neck. Apply a primer to shrink pores, smooth over fine lines, and make your foundation last longer. Twist the tube so that the foundation just barely sticks up over the edge. Swipe or dot the foundation on your face. Blend the foundation using clean fingertips. Set your foundation with powder and apply the rest of your makeup.
https://www.wikihow.com/Play-Golf-(Card-Game)	How to Play Golf (Card Game)	To play the card game Golf, try to have the lowest score out of any player at the end of the game. To do that, you need to cancel out your cards by making pairs with them. At the beginning of the game, arrange your 6 face-down cards in a 3 by 2 grid. On your turn, draw a new card and replace a card in your grid with it if you'd like. Then, flip 2 cards in your grid and try to make a pair. Once all the cards in each player's grid have been turned up, add any cards you didn't cancel to your score for that round -- the lowest score wins!	Have the players sit in a circle and shuffle a deck. If there are four or more players, shuffle two decks together. If there are eight or more players, shuffle three decks together. If you want to use a variant rule, make sure everyone agrees before the game begins. Once the cards have been dealt, the rules cannot be changed. Deal out six cards to each player face down. Someone can volunteer to be dealer or you can select one randomly. Don't look at the cards you've been dealt! If anyone does, shuffle the cards again and re-deal. If you play multiple rounds, take turns as the dealer, going clockwise. The dealer should give himself the same number of cards. Make a draw and discard pile. Place the remainder of the deck in a face down stack to from the draw pile. Flip over the top card face up next to it to form the discard pile. Each player arranges their cards in a 3x2 grid in front of them. Don't look at the cards or turn them face up yet. Each player turns any two cards in their grid face up. You can choose the second one after you've turned over your first. Explain the scoring system. Use the Scoring Guide for a common system, or use a variation. Write or print it out for people who haven't played before. Points are bad! Make sure everyone knows the goal of the game is to get the lowest score, not the highest! The player to the dealer's left takes the first turn. If possible this should be someone who has played the game before, so the new players can learn by watching them. After that player is finished, play continues clockwise, each player taking a turn in order. At the start of your turn, draw a card. You can take the top card of the discard pile if you think it will be useful. Otherwise, draw a card from the top of the draw pile (the rest of the deck). Read the rest of these rules or see Strategy to help you make this decision. Decide whether to replace one of the cards in your grid with the drawn card. You can replace any card, whether it's face up or face down. Pick up the card you want to replace from your grid and put it face up in the discard pile. Place the newly drawn card face up in its place. You cannot shift the position of your grid around before you do this. If you don't like the card you just drew, you can discard it face up in the discard pile instead of replacing a card in your grid. You cannot do this if the card you drew just came from the discard pile. Try to make pairs of the same card. If the two cards in a column share the same number or letter (for instance, a Queen above another Queen), they cancel each other out and are worth nothing (zero points). Remember, you're trying to get the lowest score possible! If you like, you can take columns that have canceled out and place them on the bottom of the discard pile (NOT the top). This makes the table less cluttered. Take one final turn after a player's grid is entirely face up. Once someone replaces their last face down card, each other player turns their grid face up as well and takes one final turn in clockwise order. After the final turn, score your points. Wait until the last player takes their turn, then flip every card in front of you face up. Use a sheet of paper with each player's name on it to record their score for the round. Refer to the scoring guide to count up players' points. Remember to follow any variations the players agreed upon beforehand. Shuffle the cards and play as many rounds as you like. Whoever sat left of the dealer in the last round is the new dealer for this round. The person sitting left of the current dealer always goes first in a round. Keep score after each round until: You play 9 rounds, 18 rounds, or some other number everyone agrees on. The traditional numbers of rounds are named after the golf theme and sometimes called "holes" instead of rounds. A player reaches 100 points, 200 points, or some other number everyone agrees on. When people decide to stop. This works well for casual groups so no one gets bored, but more competitive people might not like stopping when they're behind! Whoever has the lowest total score wins the game. Each player adds up their score from each round, and the lowest total wins. If two players are tied, either let them share the glory or decide on another game to break the tie (such as rock paper scissors). Shuffle the deck and deal out four cards. This variation can be played with 2 or more players but works best with 3 to 5. If you have 8 or more players, shuffle two decks together. If you want to use a variant rule, make sure everyone agrees before the game begins. Once the cards have been dealt, the rules cannot be changed. No one should look at any cards yet. The dealer should give herself four cards as well. Make a draw and discard pile. Place the remainder of the deck in a face down stack to from the draw pile. Flip over the top card face up next to it to form the discard pile. Each player arranges their cards in a 2x2 grid in front of them. Remember not to look at the cards yet! They should always be kept face down. Each player peeks at any two cards in their grid. Don't let anyone else see what they are. Put them back in place when you've memorized them. If you're playing with young kids or other people who have trouble memorizing cards, see the "4 cards in hand" Variation or try using the 6-card rules instead. Teach everyone the scoring system. See the Scoring Guide for a common system, or use a variation. Write or print it out for people who haven't played before. The goal of the game is to get the lowest score. Make sure no one is trying to "win" by getting the highest instead! At the start of your turn, draw a card. This can be from the discard pile or draw pile (rest of the deck). Read the rest of these rules or see Strategy to help you make this decision. Hold this card in your hand. If it came from the face down draw pile, don't let anyone else see it. Decide whether to replace one of the cards in your grid with the drawn card. You can replace any card, whether it's one you've peeked at or not. Pick up the card you want to replace from your grid and put it face up in the discard pile. Place the card you just drew face down to fill the empty space in your grid. You may not move the cards in the grid to different positions. Remember to memorize the card you just put down! This variation tests your memory, so you are not allowed to peek at a card after the beginning of the game. If you don't like the card you just drew, you can discard it face up in the discard pile instead of replacing a card in your grid. You CANNOT do this if the card you drew just came from the discard pile. Try to make pairs of the same card. A pair of the same card in a row or column are worth zero points. Don't show the other players or turn any cards face up to "cancel", though. They remain a face down secret until the end of the game. If you have three of a kind, only two of them will cancel out. The third will still be worth its usual value. If you have four of a kind, your entire grid is worth zero points. When you want to end the game, knock on the table. Instead of taking your normal turn, anyone can knock on the table to signify that they think they'll win. That player skips their turn, and each other player takes one final turn. Then the round ends. You can't knock after someone has already knocked. After the final turn, score your points. Wait until the last player takes their turn, then flip every card in front of you face up. Use a sheet of paper with each player's name on it to record their score for the round. Refer to the scoring guide to count up players' points. Remember to follow any variations the players agreed upon beforehand. Shuffle the cards and play as many rounds as you like. Whoever sat left of the dealer in the last round is the new dealer for this round. The person sitting left of the current dealer always goes first in a round. Keep score after each round until: You play 9 rounds, 18 rounds, or some other number everyone agrees on. The traditional numbers of rounds are named after the golf theme and sometimes called "holes" instead of rounds. A player reaches 100 points, 200 points, or some other number everyone agrees on. When people decide to stop. This works well for casual groups so no one gets bored, but more competitive people might not like stopping when they're behind! Whoever has the lowest total score wins the game. Each player adds up their score from each round, and the lowest total wins. If two players are tied, either let them share the glory or decide on another game to break the tie (such as rock paper scissors). You can use each scoring system for any variation of the game. Scoring Cards Basic System Harder Variation Ace 1 point 1 point 2 2 points 2 points 3 3 points 3 points 4 4 points 4 points 5 5 points 5 points 6 6 points 6 points 7 7 points 7 points 8 8 points 8 points 9 9 points 9 points 10 10 points 10 points Jack 10 points 11 points Queen 10 points 12 points King 0 points (zero) 13 points Jokers or "bonus cards". For this optional variation, shuffle in 2 Jokers for each 52 card deck. If you don't have Jokers, instead designate a specific card the "bonus card" (usually Twos or "one eyed Jacks"). The Joker or bonus card is worth -2 (negative two) points instead of its usual value. A pair of Jokers or bonus cards cancel each other out just like normal pairs, increasing your score from -4 to 0. Penalties for Ending the Game Early. This optional rule punishes players who try to end the game too early, and rewards players who correctly guess when they're ahead. Here are a couple variations. The player who ends the game (by "knocking" or by flipping their last card face up) gains 10 points if they do not have the lowest score this round. If the player who ended the game does not have the lowest score this round, that player gains a number of points equal to the player who did. For example, Scrooge "knocks". After each player takes their final turn and counts up their score, Scrooge has 17 points and Marley has 12. Because Scrooge didn't win the round by getting the lowest score, Scrooge is punished for knocking and adds Marley's 12 points to his own. The final scores are Scrooge 29 and Marley 12. 8-card or 10-card Golf. Follow the rules for 6-card golf, but give each player a 4x2 or 5x2 grid. This will make the game quite a bit longer and may require an additional deck of cards shuffled with the other(s). 4-cards in hand. Follow the rules for 4-card golf, but give each player a hand of four cards instead of a grid. Players can look at all cards in their hand at any time. Any two cards in hand cancel out if they have the same value. There is no "grid position" in your hand. This creates a short simple game with no need to memorize cards. 9-card Golf. Follow the rules for 6-card golf, but give each player a 3x3 grid. Each player turns up 3 cards instead of 2 at the start of the game. A player can only cancel cards by getting 3 of a kind in the same row or column. When they do, they can remove those 3 cards and place them at the bottom (NOT the top) of the discard pile. This will make the game quite a bit longer and may require an additional deck of cards shuffled with the other(s). Variant rules in 6-card Golf. There are many different ways to play 6-card golf, and different families and gaming groups will have their own rules. Here are some common ones: When you flip over your first two cards, they have to be in the same column, or they must be in different columns. Two of the same card anywhere on the layout cancel out, not just in the same column. This makes the game easier for younger players or beginners. If you have two columns next to each other with FOUR of the same card in them, they cancel out to zero points AND each other player gets 10 points added to their score this round. Players can only draw from the top of the draw pile during the final turns, not the discard pile. Variant rules in 4-card face down Golf. Again, there are many ways to play. Here are some common additions or changes to the rules: You can only peek at the two cards closest to you. Pairs across from each other diagonally also cancel out. Pairs don't cancel out at all. The only goal is to take the lowest cards and try to end the game when you think you're ahead. Players can only draw from the top of the draw pile during the final turns. Choose the starting cards wisely. If you're playing a variation that allows you to start with face up cards, choose cards in different columns. This gives you more chances to "cancel" out a column. Replace your highest scoring cards. Unless you can cancel out your high scoring cards, you want to get rid of them so they don't add their high values to your score. This is especially important as the game draws to a close. If your opponent is almost out of face down cards (or is looking smug), toss out your liabilities as quickly as possible! Pay attention to the players on your right and left. Much of the strategy in Golf comes down to paying attention to the other players. If the player to your right is picking up Sixes, you should give up trying to cancel your own Sixes. They aren't likely to discard any. If the player to your left is trying to finish a column of Nines, try to avoid discarding your own Nine.	Have the players sit in a circle and shuffle a deck. Deal out six cards to each player face down. Make a draw and discard pile. Each player arranges their cards in a 3x2 grid in front of them. Each player turns any two cards in their grid face up. Explain the scoring system. The player to the dealer's left takes the first turn. At the start of your turn, draw a card. Decide whether to replace one of the cards in your grid with the drawn card. Try to make pairs of the same card. Take one final turn after a player's grid is entirely face up. After the final turn, score your points. Shuffle the cards and play as many rounds as you like. Whoever has the lowest total score wins the game. Shuffle the deck and deal out four cards. Make a draw and discard pile. Each player arranges their cards in a 2x2 grid in front of them. Each player peeks at any two cards in their grid. Teach everyone the scoring system. At the start of your turn, draw a card. Decide whether to replace one of the cards in your grid with the drawn card. Try to make pairs of the same card. When you want to end the game, knock on the table. After the final turn, score your points. Shuffle the cards and play as many rounds as you like. Whoever has the lowest total score wins the game. You can use each scoring system for any variation of the game. Jokers or "bonus cards". Penalties for Ending the Game Early. 8-card or 10-card Golf. 4-cards in hand. 9-card Golf. Variant rules in 6-card Golf. Variant rules in 4-card face down Golf. Choose the starting cards wisely. Replace your highest scoring cards. Pay attention to the players on your right and left.
https://www.wikihow.com/Remove-Car-Battery-Terminals	How to Remove Car Battery Terminals	Removing the terminals on your car's battery may be necessary if you need to change your battery or clean the terminals. To remove car battery terminals, start by opening the hood and finding the battery in the engine compartment. Make sure the positive post has a cover, or place a towel over it to avoid creating a spark. Loosen the nut that holds the terminal onto the negative post and lift the terminal off. You can now remove the cover from the positive and negative posts.	Open the hood of the car and use the support bar to prop it open. Locate the battery within the engine compartment. If you're unsure about which part is the battery, then check your owner's manual. Some vehicles have their battery in the trunk, under or behind an access panel. Check the positive post to be sure that the cover is on. If the post is not covered, place a towel or other clean rag over the positive post. This will help you to avoid accidentally creating sparks by coming into contact with the positive terminal. Loosen the nut that holds the terminal onto the negative post using a socket wrench. The nut will be located to the left of the terminal. Lift the terminal off the negative battery post. If needed, pry the terminal open with a screwdriver, or gently wiggle the connector until it loosens. Remove the cover from the positive post. Loosen the nut that holds the terminal onto the positive post by using a socket wrench. Although the negative terminal has been removed, still be careful to ensure the wrench used does not contact any other metal. Lift the terminal off the positive post. If needed, pry the terminal open with a screwdriver or wiggle the connector to loosen the terminal. Sprinkle the terminals with baking soda. Scrub the terminals and the posts using a special battery terminal brush, inexpensive and available at most auto parts store. This special brush has two parts, one to fit over the battery posts and another to fit inside the cable terminals. A battery terminal brush is specially designed for this job and will eliminate the need to use your fingers for cleaning. In a pinch, any wire or bristled brush will do, but, a small one will work best inside the terminals. If your brush will not fit into the interior of the terminals, try an old toothbrush or, as a last resort, use a rag draped over your finger to scrub inside each terminal. Rinse the terminals and posts with clean water. Dry the terminals and posts with a clean towel or rag. Rub petroleum jelly onto the posts. The petroleum jelly will help to prevent future corrosion from building up. Place the positive terminal back onto the positive post. Hand-tighten the nut until you can no longer turn it. Place a socket wrench over the nut and tighten the nut until it no longer turns. Although the negative terminal is not connected, still be careful to ensure the wrench used does not contact any other metal. Place the cover over the positive post. If the cover is missing, then you should cover the post with a clean towel or a rag. Place the negative terminal back onto the negative post. Hand-tighten the nut until you can no longer turn it. Place a socket wrench over the nut and turn it until the nut is completely tightened. Remove all tools, towels or rags from the engine area. Lower the support bar and close the hood. Discard any rags or towels that came into contact with battery acid.	Open the hood of the car and use the support bar to prop it open. Locate the battery within the engine compartment. Check the positive post to be sure that the cover is on. Loosen the nut that holds the terminal onto the negative post using a socket wrench. Lift the terminal off the negative battery post. Remove the cover from the positive post. Lift the terminal off the positive post. Sprinkle the terminals with baking soda. Scrub the terminals and the posts using a special battery terminal brush, inexpensive and available at most auto parts store. Rinse the terminals and posts with clean water. Dry the terminals and posts with a clean towel or rag. Rub petroleum jelly onto the posts. Place the positive terminal back onto the positive post. Hand-tighten the nut until you can no longer turn it. Place a socket wrench over the nut and tighten the nut until it no longer turns. Place the cover over the positive post. Place the negative terminal back onto the negative post. Place a socket wrench over the nut and turn it until the nut is completely tightened. Remove all tools, towels or rags from the engine area. Lower the support bar and close the hood. Discard any rags or towels that came into contact with battery acid.
https://www.wikihow.com/Do-Black-Magic	How to Do Black Magic	To do black magic, start by finding a secluded area and drawing a circle with a pentagram inside of it. Then, step into the circle and focus all of your energy on a spell you want to perform. You can use any kind of spell, whether it has to do with things like finding love, achieving immortality, or summoning a spirit. When you're ready, recite the words of the spell you've chosen and patiently wait for your desired outcome.	Draw a circle with a pentagram inside. This powerful symbol is present during most black magic rituals. It is traditionally drawn in the ground using a wand hewn from a hazel tree. You may use a stick or another implement to draw the symbol if Hazelwood isn't available. Choose a strategic location that will give your spell the best chance to work. Spirits will have a harder time visiting a location that's populated by a lot of people, so choose a place in the woods or another area not frequently visited. Graveyards are a classic place to choose if you're planning on conjuring the dead. Step into the circle of power. Once inside, gather your concentration and energy. You will need all the energy within you to complete the spell. Don't let yourself get distracted. Recite the words of power associated with your desired spell. Each spell has different words of power that are recited to achieve the outcome you want. If you are summoning a demon or some other spirit, you must learn its true name before the spell will work. There is no one spell that will work to bring true love, give you immortality, and so on. Do research to find a spell, or write your own if you'd like. Write your spell in your grimoire. A grimoire is a sort of textbook for spells, with instructions on how to use black magic. Another name for a grimoire is a “Book of Shadows.” You can create your own Book of Shadows or use one that was already compiled by another magic practitioner. One famous example is The Witches' Way, by Janet Farrar and Stewart Farrar. Prepare for your results. If your spell works, the outcome you desire will take effect. Prepare for this, and also prepare for the evil that may come. If you have summoned a demonic beast or evil spirit, treat it with respect. These creatures do not necessarily have loyalty to their summoner. Make a poppet. A poppet is a small magical doll, also known as a voodoo doll. Choose a piece of black cloth and cut 2 layers in the shape of a small person. The shape should look vaguely similar to the person on whom you want to place a hex. Sew the edges together but leave the top of the head unsewn. Black cloth is best, but if you don't have it on hand, you can use another color. Your poppet should be created from all natural materials. Avoid using polyester fabric or other man-made fabrics; black magic is not as easily conducted through manmade materials. Fill the poppet. Fill it up with earth, a few powerful crystals, and hair and nail clippings from the person you want to hex. Sew up the head to close the poppet. Ideally, the poppet should contain something the person you're hexing has had physical contact with. If you can't get their hair or nails, try anything they've touched or owned, like a piece of clothing or even a note they wrote. Prepare a sacred circle. Draw a circle using chalk or a stick, then draw a pentagram inside it. Alternately, you may draw a sacred circle on a piece of paper large enough to stand on. Light candles around the circle before you step inside. Candle magic is thought to enhance the power of a spell by tapping into the elements, which are represented by the different parts of the candle—fire, air (to feed the flame), water (liquid wax), and earth (solid wax). Set an intention for your spell as you light the candles. Stand in the circle and speak the words of your spell over the poppet. Repeat the words of power 3 times. Here are a few examples of words you can use to place your hex: To cast a binding spell and prevent the person from taking actions, repeat, "I bind your feet from bringing you to harm me. I bind your hands from reaching out to harm me. I bind your mouth from spreading tales to harm me. I bind your mind from sending energy to harm me." Say this while wrapping the poppet in black ribbon. To cast a love spell over someone you desire, say the words, "Bright the flame. Light the fire. Red is the color of desire." Let the candles burn down. Once they have burned completely, the hex has been cast. Consider the outcome you want to bring about. What trouble is plaguing you so much that you want to use black magic to correct it? Black magic is considered a dark art because you use it to get what you want by means of controlling someone else or harming them with negative energy. If your aim is to help others or bring about some form of peace and justice, look into white magic instead. If you want to practice magic for personal gain, black magic is what you should use. Here are common reasons why people use black magic: To keep someone bound in place. If someone is harming you and you wish to stop them, you can use a binding spell to stop the person's actions. To cause someone to be attracted to you. Love spells are among the most popular when it comes to black magic. To achieve immortality or improve your health. To communicate with the dead. Know the basics of a black magic ritual. The ritual you use to perform black magic will depend on your desired outcome. There are different rituals for everything from casting a spell to gain wealth to raising the dead from their graves. Most rituals involve the following elements: A site is chosen for casting the curse or spell. A circle is drawn on the casting site, and a pentacle is drawn inside the circle. This is called a circle of power. Candles, herbs, crystals, charms, and other materials are employed to help draw out the spirits. Words of power (relevant to the particular outcome you want) are repeated 3 times. Understand curses and hexes. Aside from conducting a classic black magic ritual, there are other ways to perform black magic. Placing a curse or hex is done to bring ill fortune to another person, or to make them do what you want them to do. Be very careful about using curses and hexes. It's up to you to determine whether your reasons for wanting to bring misfortune to another person are valid. You must use your power wisely. Make sure you're willing to deal with the consequences. Awakening the forces of darkness can be a serious move and should not be done lightly. The threefold law (Wiccan Rede) states that what you put forth comes back to you threefold. Do you feel so strongly about using black magic that you're willing to suffer should the magic come back to harm you? Be sure that the outcome you are hoping to obtain is completely worth it.	Draw a circle with a pentagram inside. Step into the circle of power. Recite the words of power associated with your desired spell. Write your spell in your grimoire. Prepare for your results. Make a poppet. Fill the poppet. Prepare a sacred circle. Stand in the circle and speak the words of your spell over the poppet. Let the candles burn down. Consider the outcome you want to bring about. Know the basics of a black magic ritual. Understand curses and hexes. Make sure you're willing to deal with the consequences.
https://www.wikihow.com/Make-a-Multiplication-Chart	How to Make a Multiplication Chart	To make a multiplication chart, start by creating a table with 12 rows and 12 columns, and label the first row and the first column with the numbers 1 through 12. Then, move to the second column, which should have a number 2 in the top row. From there, fill in the column with multiples of 2 from 2 × 2 all the way to 2 × 12. You'll know you got it right if the number 24 is on the bottom row! Continue filling out your table until all of the squares are filled in, then check the numbers with a calculator. The number at the very top of the column and the very right of the row should multiply together to equal the number of the row you're in.	Understand how to read a times table. A times table shows the products of sequential factors. Each column is labeled with one factor, and each row is labeled with another factor. The cell where the row and column meet gives you the product of the two factors. Determine how many factors you need in your times table. The standard times table is for factors 1-12, but your teacher may only require you to memorize a table for factors 1-10, depending on what grade you are in. Use a ruler to create 12 rows and 12 columns. You can also find a blank table online and print it, or use graph paper. It's best to keep your table very neat, so that you don't confuse factors. When you make your table, be sure to keep room to the top and left of it so that you can label your rows and columns. Label the columns and rows 1-12. The column to the left should be labeled “1,” and the other columns labeled in order up to 12. The top row should also be labeled “1,” and the other rows labeled in order down to 12. Fill in the products for each multiplication sentence with a factor of 1. Since any number times 1 equals that number, you can quickly fill in the first row and first column of your times table, since these will all equal the number being multiplied by 1. For example, in the top row, you would fill in 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, and 12, since 1 × 1 = 1 {\displaystyle 1\times 1=1} , 2 × 1 = 2 {\displaystyle 2\times 1=2} , 3 × 1 = 3 {\displaystyle 3\times 1=3} , etc. The first column follows the same pattern, since it shows 1 × 1 = 1 {\displaystyle 1\times 1=1} , 1 × 2 = 2 {\displaystyle 1\times 2=2} , 1 × 3 = 3 {\displaystyle 1\times 3=3} , etc. Fill in the rest of the second row. The second row represents 2 × x {\displaystyle 2\times x} , where x {\displaystyle x} equals each factor you are multiplying by 2, from 2-12. For example, 2 × 2 = 4 {\displaystyle 2\times 2=4} , 2 × 3 = 6 {\displaystyle 2\times 3=6} , 2 × 4 = 8 {\displaystyle 2\times 4=8} , etc. Fill in the remaining rows. In each row, you are multiplying that row's factor by each factor represented in the columns. A quick way to fill in each row using mental math is to add that row's factor to each product. For example, the numbers in the third row will be 3, 6, 9, 12, 15, 18, 21, 24, 27, 30, 33, 36. The numbers in the fourth row will be 4, 8, 12, 16, 20, 24, 28, 32, 36, 40, 44, 48. Note that for the third row, which represents the factor 3, you simply add 3 to each product to get the next product. For the fourth row, which represents the factor 4, you add 4 to each product to get the next product. Check your table. You can verify all of your numbers are correct by using a calculator. You can also check your table against one in your math textbook or online. Understand how to read this type of chart. This type of chart is made up of separate tables for each factor. Each table shows the sequence of products when you multiply this factor by other numbers. For example, this type of chart has a table showing all the products of the factor 1, another table for all the products of the factor 2, another table for all the products of the factor 3, etc. Unlike a times table, this type of chart shows the number sentences for each factor. Determine how many factors you need in your chart. The standard multiplication chart is for factors 1-12, but you might need to create a chart with fewer or more factors, depending on your teacher's requirements. Create 12 tables. Each table should have 12 rows and 3 columns. All 12 tables should fit on one piece of paper. Make sure your table is neat by using ruler to create the lines. It is also best to use graph paper, or you can make your chart in a spreadsheet program, such as Microsoft Excel. Fill in the first column of the first table. Each cell in this column will have a number 1, since this is the table for the factor 1. Fill in the first column of the remaining tables. In the first column of each table, you will simply repeat whatever factor that table represents. So the second table should have a 2 in each cell, the third table should have a 3 in each cell, etc. Fill in the second column of each table. In the second column you will write each factor, from 1-12. This column will be the same in each table. Fill in the multiplication and equals signs for each multiplication sentence. The multiplication sign will come between the two factors. The equals sign will come after the second factor. For example, in the first table, you should have: 1 × 1 = {\displaystyle 1\times 1=} 1 × 2 = {\displaystyle 1\times 2=} 1 × 3 = {\displaystyle 1\times 3=} 1 × 4 = {\displaystyle 1\times 4=} 1 × 5 = {\displaystyle 1\times 5=} 1 × 6 = {\displaystyle 1\times 6=} etc. Fill in the final column of each table. This column will show the product of each multiplication sentence. To fill in this column quickly, simply add whatever factor that table represents to each product. For example, the products for the 5s table are 5, 10, 15, 20, 25, 10, 35, 40, 45, 50, 55, 60. Notice that for each new product, you are adding 5 to the product that came before. Review it daily. To help you memorize the chart, aim for reviewing it for at least five minutes each day. Review the table by reading over it and by quizzing yourself. You can have someone else quiz you, or you can use an online program, such as the Math Trainer found at Math is Fun. Look for patterns. Finding patterns in the numbers can help you better remember your times tables. Think about how the numbers relate to each other moving from left-to-right, up and down, or diagonally. Note that the order of the multiplication does not matter. For example, 4 × 5 = 20 {\displaystyle 4\times 5=20} and 5 × 4 = 20 {\displaystyle 5\times 4=20}. Notice that when a factor is doubled, its product is doubled. For example, compare the fourth row of the times table with the eight row. Compare the fifth row with the tenth row. If you look at the times table for the factor 5, you should see that when you multiply 5 by an odd number, the product ends in 5, and when you multiply 5 by an even number, the product ends in a 0. Note that when you multiply any single-digit factor (1-9) by 11, the product has that digit in the ones and the tens place. For example, 4 × 11 = 44 {\displaystyle 4\times 11=44} and 7 × 11 = 77 {\displaystyle 7\times 11=77}. The table for the factor 9 has many patterns. When you add the digits of any product, their sum equals 9. Also, as you move up the times table, the digit in the ones place goes down by 1. Memorize it in chunks. If you try to memorize the entire times table at the same time, you'll have a difficult time retaining all of the numbers. It's better to divide the table up into several sections and study each section until you have it memorized. For example, you might first memorize your multiplication facts from 1 x 1 {\displaystyle 1x1} down to 6 x 6 {\displaystyle 6x6} (the top left corner of the chart). Then you can memorize your facts from 1 x 7 {\displaystyle 1x7} to 6 x 12 {\displaystyle 6x12} (the top right corner of the chart. Then you can memorize your facts from 7 x 1 {\displaystyle 7x1} to 12 x 6 {\displaystyle 12x6} (the bottom left corner). Finally, you can memorize your facts from 7 x 7 {\displaystyle 7x7} to 12 x 12 {\displaystyle 12x12} (the bottom right corner). Make a new chart from memory. The best way to see how much you've memorized is to create a new chart without using a calculator or any other help. You should also try to fill in products automatically, without doing any mental math. Set a time limit, such as 3 minutes, and see whether you can fill in the entire chart in that amount of time. Each time, see if you can fill in the chart faster. When you practice making a new chart, fill in the easy calculations first. Skip any product that doesn't come to you right away. When the time limit is up, you know that you need to work on memorizing the products you could not fill in.	Understand how to read a times table. Determine how many factors you need in your times table. Use a ruler to create 12 rows and 12 columns. Label the columns and rows 1-12. Fill in the products for each multiplication sentence with a factor of 1. Fill in the rest of the second row. Fill in the remaining rows. Check your table. Understand how to read this type of chart. Determine how many factors you need in your chart. Create 12 tables. Fill in the first column of the first table. Fill in the first column of the remaining tables. Fill in the second column of each table. Fill in the multiplication and equals signs for each multiplication sentence. Fill in the final column of each table. Review it daily. Look for patterns. Memorize it in chunks. Make a new chart from memory.
https://www.wikihow.com/Stop-Being-in-Love-With-a-Person-You%27ll-Never-Meet	How to Stop Being in Love With a Person You'll Never Meet	Being in love with a person you'll probably never meet can be tough, but by prioritizing your own needs, you can get through it. If you haven't already, let the person know that you won't be talking to them anymore, since it's best for your mental health. Then, avoid contacting them in the future so you can heal and focus on yourself. In the meantime, stay busy with your hobbies, seeing friends and family, and taking care of your health. Get rid of any reminders you have of the person, like photos of them and gifts they sent you. If you find yourself feeling down, remind yourself why the relationship wouldn't work and that you'll come out the other end a happier person.	Keep busy. Stay occupied during your spare time so that you don't give yourself a lot of time to think about them. Take up new hobbies, pick up old ones, ask friends out for coffee or dinner, join a club, take a class, or volunteer. Fill your days and nights so that you're enjoying life and aren't spending much time thinking of them. You will notice that thinking of them is regressive – you will think of them less and less over time. Change your routine. You might have a routine of texting them every morning, or talking on the phone every night, and come to expect that is what you'll do every day. Change your routine so that you don't expect to talk, text, or video chat with them at certain times throughout the day. If you normally talk in the morning, try exercising instead. Or if you always text at lunch, plan to read a book instead. Your routine won't change effortlessly, and that is okay. Stick with it and before you know it, what was work will be your new routine. If they try to continue with routines that involve you, such as phone calls or texts, you can explain that you no longer wish to speak with them on the phone, for example, or you may take a more thorough approach and block them on social media. If you choose to block them, block their phone number so that they may not call or text you also. Focus on why it would not work out. It may help you to look at all of the reasons why a relationship with this person is not realistic. Try making a list of all of the reasons why it would not work out. You might include: Distance, such as living in different states, countries, or even different continents. Differences in lifestyle, personality, or interests. For example, maybe the person you are in love with is an outgoing sports enthusiast who loves to attend parties and other social events. If you are more of an introvert who likes to watch movies and hang out at home with just a few people at a time, then your lifestyles, personalities, and interests might not mesh well. Different relationship goals, such as wanting marriage while the other person may not be interested in a monogamous relationship at all. Say goodbye. You don't have to actually say goodbye to them, but you do need to say goodbye to the relationship. Reconcile with yourself that you need to stop being in love with them, and that it's time to let go. This can be a painful process, but it's necessary because it signals that you've made a decision to stop being in love and move on. You can say goodbye, you can write it in a letter, or a poem, or simply process it internally by thinking about it. If you share a friend or hobby group, you may decide that you want to maintain a friendship with them. If that's the case, explain to them that you're ending the romantic part of your relationship but look forward to a mature and healthy friendship. If you think it would be better to cut all ties, it's up to you whether you want to explain that you want no further contact with them. Get rid of reminders. While you'll never meet, you might have exchanged letters, trinkets, gifts, or other items. You need to get rid of these reminders so that you can begin the process of healing and falling out of love. Box the items up and throw them away or ask someone else to discard them for you. This should happen at the same time that you say goodbye to allow yourself a clean slate. Plan how to start the conversation or letter. Before you contact the person to tell him or her that you want to end the relationship, take some time to plan out what to say. Try writing out what you want or need to say ahead of time. There are several different ways that you can start this conversation. Some potential opening lines that you might use include: "I need to talk to you about something important..." "Do you have time to talk about something important? I want to discuss…" "I don't know the best way to start, but..." "I'm heartbroken about this, but..." Send an email. This is probably the least personal way to end the relationship, but it does allow you to write your thoughts out carefully and choose your words intentionally. Ending the relationship via email also gives you an opportunity to speak without interruption or rebuttal. This method also gives the recipient time to reflect on what you've written before they respond. Don't write extensively about what went wrong. Instead, simply say that you need to end the relationship and what it is you expect going forward, be it no communication, limited communication, or a thriving friendship. Send a direct message. Ending a relationship over chat is a bit more complicated because you need to make sure that you and the other person are both able to chat at the same time without interruptions. You'll still tell the other person that you are ending the relationship and what you expect going forward. The difference is that chat or direct message facilitates a conversation, which will allow the other person an opportunity to respond to what you're saying. If you think that they won't take your ending the relationship well, you might consider writing an email instead of allowing them to respond to you in a direct message. Speak on the phone or video chat. You may decide that you want to speak to the other person, either on the phone, or over video chat, so that you can have the closest conversation possible without being face-to-face. On the phone or in video chat you'll still need to focus on your decision to end the relationship and your expectations. Don't be accusatory or rude because that's unproductive and will just provoke anger or hurt in them. If you are nervous that they will try to talk you out of ending the relationship, opt to send an email instead of the more personal routes of conversation. Get closure. When ending a relationship, especially with someone who you love, obtaining closure can be an important step in the healing process. Closure lets you both know that you appreciate your experiences together, but that that it's time for both of you to move forward without one another. Communicate with the person that you love and tell them not only how you're feeling, but that you need to restrict or cut off communication, and that you wish them the best. Sometimes it's not possible to have a conversation that brings you satisfying closure. That's okay. That lack is a closure in and of itself. Move forward and focus on healing yourself. Decide what sort of relationship you’re looking for. Make a list of what you're looking for in a relationship, such as companionship, partnership, someone to share life events with, someone to talk with, and so on. This will help you figure out if you're looking for an online or face-to-face relationship. You may discover that you actually want physical companionship as well, which will help you stop being in love with the person you'll never meet. Consider your self-esteem. If you have fallen into a habit of thinking that no one will be attracted to you or that no one in your town or city is available, an Internet relationship can be an easy substitute for dealing with personal issues. Instead of focusing your energies on a relationship, spend that time and energy working on yourself and your self-esteem. Take two minutes every day to quietly think about that which you appreciate about yourself, such as your sense of humor, your eyes, your intellect, or even your shopping savvy. Make an effort to be kinder to others. You will have a better opinion of yourself the kinder you are to others. Learn from your experiences. Even though this relationship hasn't met your needs, it was still a good learning experience. Whether you've learned that you can be loved, that your personality is relationship-worthy, or that long-distance relationships are just plain hard sometimes, the important thing is to not let the whole situation be a wasted experience. Consider what was good about your relationship. Was it educational? Or did it help you mature emotionally? Was it nice to have a confidant? Thinking about the positive aspects will help you figure out what you want in future relationships. Similarly, consider what needs you had that weren't met in the relationship. Was it difficult to coordinate schedules? Or did you have different life goals? Lastly, consider what did and did not make you happy in your relationship. Thinking about these aspects of your relationship will help you identify your needs and what you want in future relationships. Reallocate your resources. Being in love with a person who you'll never meet is a good learning experience and has the potential to meet many of your emotional needs. However, it also uses up so many of your emotional, financial, and time resources. Choose to reallocate those resources to dating locally. Because you'll be able to meet people locally, your resources will be much better invested. Go on a local dating website Or look at a national website, but select your geographic area Or look to local hobby groups Ask a friend to set you up with someone Join a local recreational sports league Accept that you feel may conflicted. You may feel an internal conflict when you decide to end your relationship to pursue dating locally. Choosing to date locally can be intimidating, especially if you're in love with someone who you'll never meet. You have an emotional and intellectual connection with that person, but seek a physical connection as well. Recognize that you feel conflicted, accept that it's okay, and give yourself permission to seek happiness in a local relationship. It's good and healthy to admit that you'll never meet this person for whom you have feelings. Maintaining even the slightest hope that you'll meet them may only intensify your inner conflict. Break the cycle. Ending a love relationship can be painful, and it's not something that you want to feel again intentionally. Refrain from starting another relationship with someone else that you won't meet. If necessary, stop using the Internet for a while to prevent opportunities for falling into a similarly difficult relationship. Find new games to play, new message boards with which to interact, and new groups to join. You learned from previous experience that it was important to meet the person who you love, so you want to avoid starting a similar relationship with someone in these new groups or communities.	Keep busy. Change your routine. Focus on why it would not work out. Say goodbye. Get rid of reminders. Plan how to start the conversation or letter. Send an email. Send a direct message. Speak on the phone or video chat. Get closure. Decide what sort of relationship you’re looking for. Consider your self-esteem. Learn from your experiences. Reallocate your resources. Accept that you feel may conflicted. Break the cycle.
https://www.wikihow.com/Subtly-Flirt-With-a-Guy	How to Subtly Flirt With a Guy	To subtly flirt with a guy, maintain eye contact, keep you body language open, and keep the conversation casual with a joke or 2. Make sure you smile and look into his eyes, which shows him that you're interested. While you're talking, face him with your body and avoid crossing your arms so you seem relaxed. Try to make a few jokes throughout your conversation to keep the mood light and playful. You can also touch him lightly on his shoulder or knee when you talk. For example, if he tells a joke, laugh and touch his shoulder to show him you're open to physical contact.	Be confident in your ability to flirt. If you're not confident, fake it until you make it. Smile, try not to fidget and look your target directly in the eye when talking to him. These few steps are often all you need to do to subtly catch a guy's interest. Laugh, joke, and keep the conversation light at first. Humor is one of the best ice-breakers on the planet. Throwing in a joke here and there shows that you are spontaneous, fun, and laid-back, all of which tells a guy you may be interested. Use open, interested body language. Body language is the oft-forgotten secret weapon of flirting. Not only does it work, but it works subtly, letting a guy know subconsciously that you are interested. To flirt with your body: Face your shoulders and hips towards him. Play with your hair. Make eye-contact. Nod and smile as he talks. Avoid crossing your arms, looking away/down, or staring into space as he talks. Smile. Smiling is the number one way to flirt with someone. Show off your pearly whites every chance you get, and you'll notice that he'll be smiling too. Touch him lightly. Breaking the touch barrier between two people is a great way to separate flirtation from friendly conversation. Touch his shoulder or knee lightly, or put your hand briefly on his back as you get up to go the bathroom. Feeling adventurous? Offer to play a quick game like patty-cake, slaps, or invent a secret handshake together. Be genuine. The quickest way to lose your future date is to fake your interest. Ask him questions about himself, laugh only when you think something is funny, and remember to feel natural. If you're having a good time, chances are your flirting is successful. But if you cannot be genuinely nice to a guy, he probably is not the right fit for you. Avoid loaded or leading questions. Never ask a guy about marriage, his last relationship, or if he wants kids. These are big, difficult questions that usually come up later in a relationship. Remember that flirting is supposed to be light and fun, not serious. Religion, politics, and how much money he makes should all be avoided. Know when to back off. Flirting can quickly go from fun to creepy if you don't know when to leave. If he wants to go see his friends, keeps looking away and checking his watch, or starts giving one-word answers, it is time to back off and give him some space. Dress for the occasion with cute clothes. Looking good sends nice signals to someone that your are interested in finding a partner or fling. That said, don't feel the need to go outside of your comfort-zone. Aim for something you feel good and confident wearing. Make eye contact across the room. Trying to get a guy to notice you often takes little more than locking eyes with him. If you do make eye-contact, don't look away. Smile briefly or wave before turning back to your phone. Talk to him whenever you get the chance. Conversation is the best way to begin a connection with someone. It also shows your interest and lets you get to know each other, which allows you ample opportunities to flirt. Some conversation tips include: Find common ground to talk about. Maybe you like the same shows, both cook often, or grew up in the same neighborhood. Ask questions. Show your interest by asking about his life, not talking about yours. Make jokes. The occasional burst of humor can be a great way to show a guy you're interested on the sly. Be personable and approachable. He should be able to talk to you without feeling like he's invading. Separate yourself from large groups of friends occasionally, smile often, and give him the chance to come find you without feeling overwhelmed. Make the first move. Most guys love it when they are approached by a woman. Have confidence in how amazing you are, then take a deep breath and walk right up to him to start a conversation. Buy him a drink. Ask him a question about himself, the surroundings, his shirt, etc. Casually mention him by saying “I saw you across the bar earlier, what's your name?” Tease him gently. Giving someone a little grief is actually a great way to get a guy's attention. Make sure your jokes are not about anything serious, but it's okay to give him a hard time if he spills a drink or says something silly. Teasing is often at the root of flirting, cause it shows that you are willing to have fun and be a bit silly. Make sure you're willing to be teased back – it means he is trying to flirt with you.	Be confident in your ability to flirt. Laugh, joke, and keep the conversation light at first. Use open, interested body language. Smile. Touch him lightly. Be genuine. Avoid loaded or leading questions. Know when to back off. Dress for the occasion with cute clothes. Make eye contact across the room. Talk to him whenever you get the chance. Be personable and approachable. Make the first move. Tease him gently.
https://www.wikihow.com/Remove-Cactus-Needles	How to Remove Cactus Needles	To remove cactus needles, grip the ends with a pair of tweezers and pull straight out. For glochids, which are thin, hairlike cactus needles, put on protective gardening gloves and rub a pair of wadded up pantyhose against the affected area to pull them out. For stubborn cactus hairs, apply a large amount of rubber cement to the area. Once the adhesive dries, pull the cement up slowly, pulling the needles up with it.	Take out standard cactus needles using tweezers. If you can see a cactus needle clearly, grip the end of it with a pair of tweezers and pull it out. To avoid snapping the needle, do your best to remove it in a single, straight motion. If the needle gets buried deep under your skin, locate the tip furthest away from the entry wound and gently push it out. Brush off glochids using a nylon stocking. Glochids are thin, hairlike cactus needles that are shorter and less rigid than regular cactus spines. To remove them, put on protective gardening gloves and wad up a pair of nylon pantyhose. Then, rub the hose against the affected area to pull out the glochids. When dealing with glochids, nylon hose provides all the adhesive power of duct tape without causing any unwanted skin irritation. Pull out stubborn cactus hairs with rubber cement. Using a cotton swab, tongue depressor, or other small applicator, apply a large amount of rubber cement to the pierced area. Let the adhesive dry, then pull the edges of the cement up slowly and carefully. Repeat the process multiple times to remove as many needles as possible. Your drying time will vary based on which brand of rubber cement you use. You may feel some slight pain as the adhesive dries. To combat this, take a standard dose of an over-the-counter painkiller like acetaminophen. Dress your wound after getting the needles out. After removing the cactus needles from your skin, clean the pierced area with fresh water for 5 to 10 minutes. Once you've removed as much dirt and debris as you can, apply antibiotic cream to the wound and cover the entire affected area with gauze wrap or a bandage. For safety, wash your hands with antibacterial soap before cleaning the wound. If you see any cactus hairs in the wound site, pick them out using tweezers sterilized with antibacterial soap. Until the wound heals, change your bandage at least once a day or whenever it becomes dirty or wet. Seek medical help if you can’t remove the needles. Visit a doctor if you can't get cactus needles out of your arms, legs, or any other non-sensitive areas of your body. If you get cactus needles stuck in your neck, throat, or any other sensitive spots that you can't easily remove them from, head to the emergency room as soon as possible. Leaving cactus needles in your skin for a long period of time can lead to infections. Remove small cactus needles using duct tape. Small cactus hairs like to bury themselves in fabric, making them incredibly difficult to remove. However, you can usually get a large portion of them out using duct tape or a similarly strong adhesive. To do so, cover the affected area with a strip of tape, then rip the tape off. Repeat this multiple times for the best results. Do not use this method on your skin. Doing so may cause additional damage to the stabbed area. Pull out large cactus needles with a comb. Unlike small needles, large cactus spines and ball-like hitchhikers are easy to remove from clothing. To do so, grab a fine-toothed comb and place it just above the needles. Then, run the comb down through the needles to brush them off. Once you've removed most of the needles, get rid of any stragglers using duct tape or a pair of tweezers. When combing, make sure to keep you hand as far away from the needles as possible. Clean your clothes in a washing machine to remove leftover needles. Once you've removed as many needles as you can, place your clothing items in a washing machine and run them through a normal cleaning cycle. Doing so will remove any small hairs you couldn't get out by hand. Do not wash your affected clothes with other garments, otherwise you may simply move the cactus needles from 1 item to another. Pull out large needles with a pair of tweezers. If large, clearly visible cactus spines get tangled up in your hair, grab them with a pair of tweezers and pull them out. These needles may be accompanied by small, hard to see cactus hairs, so put on gardening gloves to keep your hands safe. If any of the cactus spines pierced your scalp, ask a friend or family member to check for major signs of damage. If they notice any, visit a doctor immediately. Remove small and stuck needles with a comb. To keep your hands safe, put on a pair of gardening gloves. Then, grab a fine-toothed comb and run it through the affected areas of your hair. This will help you remove thin, difficult to see cactus hairs as well as any stubborn hitchhikers that got tangled up in your locks. If you're having a difficult time, soak your hair in warm water for about 10 minutes. This will loosen everything up and make the cactus needles easier to remove. Cut your hair if you can’t remove the needles. If you can't seem to get the cactus needles out of your hair, you may need to cut the affected areas off with scissors or shave them down using a razor. Though you might feel tempted to simply leave the needles in, doing so can lead to incredible amounts of discomfort and, if the needles reach your scalp, serious infections.	Take out standard cactus needles using tweezers. Brush off glochids using a nylon stocking. Pull out stubborn cactus hairs with rubber cement. Dress your wound after getting the needles out. Seek medical help if you can’t remove the needles. Remove small cactus needles using duct tape. Pull out large cactus needles with a comb. Clean your clothes in a washing machine to remove leftover needles. Pull out large needles with a pair of tweezers. Remove small and stuck needles with a comb. Cut your hair if you can’t remove the needles.
https://www.wikihow.com/Socialize-a-Lory-or-Lorikeet	How to Socialize a Lory or Lorikeet	To socialize a lory or lorikeet, start by placing its cage in a spot where it can see you. Every time you pass by the cage, talk to your bird so it gets used to your voice. You can also use different voice tones to keep it interested and alert. Additionally, bond with your bird by feeding it a variety of treats by hand. Try to keep all of your interactions with your bird positive and calm to build trust and reinforce positive behaviors. If you bird is acting in ways that you don't approve of, simply walk away and ignore it for a few minutes.	Place the bird’s cage near you. The more time spent with your lory or lorikeet, the better socialized they will become. You have to get your bird used to you and other people. Put the cage somewhere where your bird can see you and others so they can get used to you. Sit close to the cage or walk by it throughout the day. Let them realize you are not a threat by becoming part of their environment. Talk to your bird. Interact with your bird by talking to them. Whenever you enter the room or walk by their cage, speak to them. Talk to them in different tones of voice to rouse their curiosity. You can even try singing to them to get them used to you. Do this multiple times each day. Offer the bird food. You can try to build the trust between you and your lory or lorikeet by sharing food. Birds often feed each other, so offering the bird food can help establish that trust and relationship. Try feeding them different foods so they can stay curious and learn to trust you. If the bird pecks at your hand, or if they always stay out of reach of your hand, offer food in a wooden spoon. This is less threatening for the bird, and still provides them with food intensives. Avoid sudden movements at first. When you first get your lory or lorikeet, avoid any sudden movements or loud sounds. They are prey birds, so they may see that as a threat. Whenever you are around them, move slowly in a controlled manner. Eventually, the bird will get used to you. For example, don't reach towards the bird quickly or run over to the cage. Instead, move in a calm manner past the cage, or reach into the cage in a controlled way. Be patient. Not all birds will become socialized and accept you at the same rate. Some birds have traumatic events in their past that have made them distrustful to humans. Others may have a difficult personality. Remember to keep interacting with your bird and to stay patient. Eventually, your bird will trust you wholeheartedly. Play with your bird regularly. Spending time with your lory or lorikeet and playing with them daily helps to socialize them. Use toys and different games to amuse them. You also may bring them with you into different rooms throughout the day. For example, you may pull toys out of their cage and play with them with your bird. You can also put an empty box on the floor with something inside they can chew, and then gently tap the box with something until you finally place it in their view. You can also try playing peek-a-boo with a toy. Lories and lorikeets love just about every kind of toys. They love foot toys, balls, cardboard boxes or rolls, and toys that make noise. You can use just about anything to play with your bird. Take the lory or lorikeet into the bathroom with you when you're grooming yourself, or bring them in the living room. Just don't take them into the kitchen because kitchen fumes can be harmful to birds. Play instructional games with your bird. Playing games is important to keep your lory or lorikeet happy and healthy, but it can also help socialize them. Instructional games are particularly important because it helps tame your bird, build trust, and let them know that you are the one who can guide them. For example, you can teach your parrot to get your attention through spreading their wings instead of screaming at you. Whenever they spread their wings, spread your arms and say “Eagle pose!” Practicing this over and over will show your parrot this positive behavior. You can also try to teach the bird how to slap your hand with their foot using a verbal cue. Give the lory or lorikeet a lot of praise and treats when they perform a new behavior learned in your instructional games. React positively to behavior problems. You may unknowingly reinforce negative behavior by the way you react to behavior problems like screaming and aggression. If you scream at a screaming bird, you are giving it positive reinforcement, just as you are positively reinforcing biting behavior by getting angry. Try to react calmly and positively to get the behavior you want. Most negative behaviors happen when your bird is upset. Walk away from your bird and calm down before interacting. This also gives your bird time to calm down. Approach them later more calmly. Tell visitors to ignore the bird at first. As you begin socializing your bird, instruct your visitors to ignore the bird. Many people may want to run up to your lory or lorikeet's cage to see the bird, but this could reinforce negative associations for your bird. Keep visitors away from the bird for around 10 to 60 minutes. This helps your bird watch the people and determine they are not a threat. Tell your visitors, “I can introduce you to my lorikeet soon, but for now we need to ignore them while they get used to new people.” Explain to guests how to approach your lory or lorikeet. Your bird has a very specific way it needs to be approached. Especially if you are teaching it how to be social, you need to make sure everyone handles your bird in the correct way. This helps provide positive associations for your bird with strangers. Go through the steps on how to handle the bird, including how to pet it. If your bird will allow it, demonstrate with the bird. Explain to your guests that the bird is not a dog, cat, or child, and they cannot treat it like most pets. Allow the bird out of the cage. After your guests have been in your home for a period of time, you can let your lory or lorikeet out of their cage. Make sure that the guests do not approach the bird, but that the bird approaches when they feel comfortable. This helps the bird retain control and feel out the situation. Explain to your guests, “Don't approach the bird, but allow the bird to come to you. It'll take a few minutes to feel comfortable, but then it will get curious.” Make visitors act as a human perch. When your lory or lorikeet is getting used to people, have people only let the bird perch on them. Don't let visitors put their arm out towards the bird because this could spook or upset the bird. Letting unfamiliar people make motions towards the bird can cause them to mistrust strangers. Tell your visitors that they should remain still and not interact with the bird if they decide to land on them. They shouldn't pet or touch the bird while they're perching on them. Allow the bird to build trust with the person before they move towards it. No one should ever move towards a lory or lorikeet before they build trust. This trust can be established by letting the bird use them as a human perch, or by being around the bird and letting them get used to the person. Use tricks to help your bird get used to stepping up to strangers. You should already have your lory or lorikeet trained before socializing them, so you can use this training to get them used to people. After the bird gets used to a person, you can give the person treats. Have the person cue a trick, and then to receive the treat, the bird has to step up onto the arm. After the bird gets used to this, then have the bird step up onto the visitor's arm before they get the treat. Socialize young birds with other birds. Lories and lorikeets need to learn socialization with other birds, especially if you are going to keep more than one bird. If you have a young bird, introduce them to other birds and let them interact. This helps them avoid being aggressive or angry with any other birds you get. Introduce young birds to a variety of different people. If you have young lories and lorikeets, you should try to get them used to a variety of different people. This helps them get used to people and not be frightened by people who look different than you. For example, you can bring people around them that are different genders or ethnicities or with different color hair. You can also allow them to get used to people who wear hats, glasses, or other accessories. Let young birds experience changes in their environment. Another way to socialize young lories and lorikeets is to let them experience many different things. This helps them adapt to changes in their homes and piques their curiosity. Change things around in your home or in the room the birds are kept. You can also take the birds into different rooms so they can experience different environments. Play music around your bird, let them walk on different surfaces, and let them be moved around in a basket. Feed young birds various foods. Another thing that can help your lory or lorikeet become socialized is to feed them an array of foods so they get used to any food that they are given. This also helps them learn that curiosity is a good, safe thing. Fostering their curiosity helps your bird be more involved with their surroundings.	Place the bird’s cage near you. Talk to your bird. Offer the bird food. Avoid sudden movements at first. Be patient. Play with your bird regularly. Play instructional games with your bird. React positively to behavior problems. Tell visitors to ignore the bird at first. Explain to guests how to approach your lory or lorikeet. Allow the bird out of the cage. Make visitors act as a human perch. Allow the bird to build trust with the person before they move towards it. Use tricks to help your bird get used to stepping up to strangers. Socialize young birds with other birds. Introduce young birds to a variety of different people. Let young birds experience changes in their environment. Feed young birds various foods.
https://www.wikihow.com/Pass-the-STAAR-Test	How to Pass the STAAR Test	To pass the STAAR test, try your best to pay attention in class, take notes, and keep up on your homework, especially during the few weeks leading up to the test since your teacher will be reviewing it. Also, do some practice questions on your own to help you prepare for the test, which you can find on the Texas Education Agency website. When you're studying for your test, focus on the areas that you struggle in. For example, if you struggle with math, spend more time reviewing for the math section than the reading section.	Get a good night's sleep. You will do better on your test if you are well rested. If you are sleepy, you will have difficulty thinking and will be more forgetful. If you are a teenager, you need between 8-10 hours of sleep a night. If you are between the ages of 6 and 13, you need 9-11 hours of sleep each night. Cramming for the test the night before won't help you. It is better to relax and get a good night's sleep instead. Adjust your schedule the week of the test so you can get enough rest. Do something fun. Don't spend the night before your test worrying about it. Do an activity that you enjoy and that will take your mind off of things. Spend time with your friends or family, watch a movie, play video games, or read a magazine that is not school related. You will do better on the test if you are relaxed and in a good mood. Pack your bag the night before. You do not want to be in a rush the morning of your test. This can cause you to feel even more nervous and anxious. Pack your school bag the night before with everything you will need for the day. Make sure you have all necessary materials for the test, including pencils and erasers. Eat a healthy breakfast. Wake up early enough to eat a nutritious breakfast. Food is necessary to fuel your brain. If you take your test without eating, you will be more distracted and have problems concentrating. Do not experiment or try any new foods the day of your test either. Good breakfast choices include fruit, whole grain-cereal, and protein rich foods (e.g. eggs, nuts, and yogurt). Stay away from processed and sugary foods such as cookies, cakes, etc. Also avoid eating a carbohydrate (e.g. bread, pancakes, etc.) heavy breakfast because it will cause you to feel sluggish and sleepy. If you do not feel like eating in the morning, try having a smoothie or a breakfast shake. Read each question carefully. Before you answer a question, read the entire question before you choose an answer. It is important to do this even if you already feel like you know the answer. Underline any words that are important or that stand out to you. If the question is difficult to understand, try to rewrite/rephrase the question so it makes sense to you. Be sure to follow any written or verbal instructions you receive about the test. If you are unsure about an answer, eliminate the answers you know are wrong and choose between the other possible choices. This will increase your chances of getting the question right. Monitor your time. The STAAR test is a timed test. Wear a watch or make sure you can see the clock during your test. Your teacher will probably give you warnings about the time, but you should keep track of it as well. If you have extra time, go back and double check your answers. Be sure to leave some time at the end to answer the questions that you skipped. It is better to guess than to leave a question unanswered. For example, if you have 45 minutes to complete a section, try to finish in 40 minutes so you have time to go back. Stick with your first answer. When you take a test, the first answer that you choose is usually the best answer. You get into trouble when you begin to second guess yourself. Do not got back and change your answer unless you are absolutely sure. If you go completely blank on a question, skip it and come back to it later. You do not want to waste time thinking about one question when you could be answering the questions that you already know. Make some type of mark by the questions that you skipped. You do not want to forget to go back and answer them. Take a deep breath. If you find yourself getting anxious during the test, stop and take a deep breath. Close your eyes and breathe in through your nose and out through your mouth. Take a couple of breaths and then get back to your test. Practice deep breathing before you take your test so you can get in the habit of doing it. As you take a deep breath, tell yourself, "I am in control. Everything is going to be fine." If you get a headache, start sweating, feel like you might pass out, get butterflies in your stomach, start sweating, or start shaking, you may be feeling anxious. These are signs that you should take a deep breath. Pause if you experience fear. Test taking can be scary. If you experience fear or become overwhelmed during the test, stop and acknowledge it. When you pause, remind yourself about the task at hand. The task is to answer the question in front of you. If your mind goes blank or you feel like you have no idea what you are doing all of a sudden, you may also be experiencing fear. Fear is completely normal. You will not be able to eliminate fear completely, but you can manage it so it does not affect your test. Place your hand on your belly and take 3 deep breaths. As you inhale and exhale, notice how your belly gets bigger then smaller. You can also write the word "breathe" at the top of your test booklet to remind you take deep breaths when you begin to feel stressed out. Tell yourself, "I can do this," or "Just keep going." Focus on one question at a time. It is easy to get worked up about a test. You may be thinking about what will happen if you do not pass or how many more questions you have to answer. You may still be thinking about the last question you answered. Stay in the present and answer one question at a time. If your mind begins to wander, bring it back and tell yourself, "I will only focus on one question at a time. If you tend to have problems focusing or get nervous every time you take a test, talk to a teacher, parent, or school counselor about it. They can help you with other techniques to stay calm during the test. Tell yourself, "I am smart. I can do this." Understand the test components. Become familiar with the test subjects and format of the test before your exam date. You do not want to be surprised by anything when you take the test. The test structure will vary depending on what grade you are in. If you are in 3rd grade, your test will include reading and mathematics. If you are in 4th grade, your test will include reading, mathematics, and writing. If you are in 5th grade, your test will include reading, mathematics, and science. If you are in 6th grade, your test will include reading and mathematics. If you are in 7th grade, your test will include reading, mathematics, and writing. If you are in 8th grade, your test will include reading, mathematics, science, and social studies. If you are in high school, you will have end-of-course (EOC) assessments for English I, English II, Algebra I, biology and U.S history. Do practice questions. Your teacher will give you practice questions at school, but you should also do some practice questions on your own. Visit the Texas Education Agency website and click on the "Student Testing and Accountability" section. Once you are in that section go to "Testing," "State of Texas Assessments of Academic Readiness (STAAR)," and then click on "STAAR Released Test Questions." Find the questions that correspond to your grade level. You can see the practice questions and the answers. Try to answer the questions without looking at the answers. Commit to studying for a designated amount of time. For example, you may spend an hour on Tuesdays and Saturdays doing STAAR practice questions. Talk to your teacher about developing a study schedule. Having a regular study schedule is more effective than cramming for your test. You need to spend enough time studying for your STAAR without neglecting your other school work. You may study only once a week or every other week in the beginning of the school year and then increase your study time as the test approaches. You may be studying 3 or 4 times a week as your test date gets closer. An appropriate study schedule varies by each student. If you took the STAAR test last year, pay attention to the areas that you struggled in and devote more study time to those. If you did not take the STAAR test last year, spend more time in the general subject areas that you struggle in. For example, you may spend more time studying mathematics than reading. Pay attention in class. Your teacher will prepare you for your STAAR test during the school year. Your curriculum will include the things that you need to know. It is important that you pay attention in class, take notes, and do your homework. Your teacher may do more intense STAAR prep in the weeks leading up to your test. This is a time that you really need to focus. If you do not understand a concept or have a question, get help from your teacher as soon as you can. If you wait until it is time for your test, it may be too late. Try to be a good student throughout the school year, not just a few weeks before the test. This will increase your chances of passing the STAAR. Work with a standardized-test taking tutor. A tutor that is experienced with standardized test taking can help you prepare for the test. A tutor can help assess your skills and teach you standardized test taking techniques. Your tutor can also develop a study plan based on your skills and how soon you need to take your exam. Some private tutoring organizations such as 'Mathnasium' (math learning center) and Sylvan Learning offer STAAR specific training. You can also ask your teacher or school counselor about any prep programs in your area.	Get a good night's sleep. Do something fun. Pack your bag the night before. Eat a healthy breakfast. Read each question carefully. Monitor your time. Stick with your first answer. Take a deep breath. Pause if you experience fear. Focus on one question at a time. Understand the test components. Do practice questions. Talk to your teacher about developing a study schedule. Pay attention in class. Work with a standardized-test taking tutor.
https://www.wikihow.com/Become-a-Naturopathic-Doctor	How to Become a Naturopathic Doctor	To become a naturopathic doctor, take a mix of science and liberal arts classes as an undergraduate and earn your bachelor's degree. Next, enroll in an accredited 4-year naturopathic graduate program and complete coursework in biomedicine and homeopathy. Then, register for the NPLEX during grad school and pass Part I and Part II of the exam. Finally, submit an application to your state or province's licensing board to get your license and start practicing professionally.	Take a mix of science and liberal arts classes as an undergraduate. Degree programs in naturopathic medicine require a bachelor's degree (or a comparable undergraduate degree). While you don't need a degree in science, most programs require solid coursework in the sciences. Additionally, given naturopathy's approach to medicine as both an art and science, balance scientific coursework with electives in the liberal arts and humanities. Undergraduate scientific coursework should include general biology, anatomy and physiology, chemistry, psychology, and physics. Helpful liberal arts courses include ethics, literature and composition, philosophy of science, and religious studies. While there's no required undergraduate major, strong choices include biology, chemistry, nutrition, kinesiology, and psychology. Ask your academic adviser for advice about taking courses that would prepare you for a naturopathic degree program. Tour schools with accredited 4-year naturopathic degree programs. Research degree programs online, and find “Request Information” links on universities' websites. If possible, visit schools, reach out to their faculty members, and meet with academic advisers. To select the right program, compare costs, consider programs' strengths and specialties, and decide which locations you prefer. Submit your application by the deadline. Specific application steps vary by program. In general, you'll need to enter basic information into an application form and submit your undergraduate transcripts, your resume , an essay , and 1 to 3 letters of recommendation. Additionally, you'll need to include an application fee, which may cost $75 to $150 (U.S.), and you may need to sit for an in-person or phone interview. Check your prospective program's website for specific application requirements, procedures, and deadlines. Rent a place to live if you’re not staying on campus. Once you've received an acceptance letter and enrolled, research the cost of living in your school's city. Compare the cost of living on campus with local rent prices. If convenience is a priority, go with on-campus housing; look for affordable places to rent if you're on a budget. Look into getting a roommate if you want to save money on rent. When apartment hunting, take distance from campus, access to groceries and other necessities, cost of utilities, and safety into consideration. Complete coursework in biomedicine and homeopathy. Your degree program will jointly focus on standard medical biology and natural therapeutic techniques. The first 1 to 2 years of your coursework will probably deal with topics such as anatomy, biochemistry, microbiology, and pharmacology. Once you've built a solid foundation in medical biology, you'll take classes related to botanical medicine, nutrition, physical therapy, and other homeopathic topics. Toward the end of your 4-year tenure, you'll spend most of your time in clinical settings working with actual patients. Choose a specialty if you’re interested in a particular area of medicine. While you're in school, decide whether you want to pursue an area of focus, such as geriatrics (elderly patients), pediatrics (infants and children), or oncology (cancer treatment). A specialty isn't required but, if you've chosen one, take coursework related to your focus whenever possible. Work with your academic adviser and your program's faculty to choose a specialty and enroll in relevant courses. Apply to take the NPLEX once you’ve met the eligibility requirements. You'll have completed the courses required to take the NPLEX by your third or fourth year. The 2-part exam is offered each year in February and August. To register, submit the application form with your basic information (such as your name, contact info, and Social Security number), a scanned copy of your government-issued photo ID, and an eligibility verification letter provided your school's registrar. Apply to take the NPLEX at https://www.nabne.org/home/applicant. Be sure to submit your application before the registration deadline in November (for the February exam) or May (for the August exam). You'll also need to pay non-refundable fees, which currently total $475 for Part I of the exam and $700 for Part II of the exam. You must pass Part I before you can take Part II. Download the NPLEX resources offered with your exam registration. Once your registration has been approved, you'll be able to log into the NPLEX administrator's website to access valuable NPLEX study guides. Additionally, your program will offer helpful resources, and you can find practice tests and paid courses online. Once you've registered, access the North American Board of Naturopathic Examiners (NABNE, or the NPLEX administrator) resources at https://www.nabne.org. You'll also be able to print out your registration ticket, which you'll need to take to the test. Start preparing for the exam at least 3 to 4 months in advance. The NPLEX is a comprehensive exam, and the first part includes 200 questions on anatomy and physiology, biochemistry, microbiology, immunology, and pathology. Start thinking about the NPLEX early in your academic career, take detailed class notes, and review material routinely to keep it fresh. As the exam draws closer, break the exam down into individual sections. Focus on 1 section, such as anatomy and physiology, for 1 to 2 weeks. Study at least 1 to 3 hours per day, and work section by section in the 3 or 4 months leading to the exam. Review your notes from classes, and organize study sessions with your classmates. Make flashcards of key vocabulary and physiological processes, and test your knowledge by taking multiple choice practice exams. Apply to take Part II once you’ve passed Part I. Part II includes 400 multiple choice questions that focus on diagnosis and treatment. Once you've passed Part I, you'll be able to eligible to register for Part II. Like Part I, study section by section for at least 1 to 3 hours per day, take practice exams, and tap the resources offered by your degree program. A typical Part II question presents a clinical case, such as a set of symptoms. It'll ask you the most likely diagnosis, appropriate tests needed to make a diagnosis, a homeopathic treatment, or whether there's an indication that medical intervention is necessary. Retake Part I or Part II of the exam if you don't pass. Passing both parts is a licensing requirement in North America. You can retake either test if you don't pass, but you'll need to pay the application fee each time you retake the exam. Part I has 2 sections, and Part II has 4 sections. If you don't pass an individual section, you'll need to retake the entire part. For instance, if you pass section 1 of Part I but don't pass section 2, you'll need to retake and pass both sections. Note that if you pass Part I but don't pass Part II, you only need to retake Part II. Apply for a post-grad residency for more hands-on experience. Residencies aren't a licensing requirement in most jurisdictions, but they're a great way to work directly with patients. During a residency, you'll work under a naturopathic doctor and gain experience in a clinical setting. In general, apply for a residency by April of your degree program's fourth year. Participating institutions include accredited degree programs and naturopathic and homeopathic clinics. To apply, submit your application form, transcripts, and letters of recommendation at https://aanmc.org/naturopathic-residencies. You'll also need to sit for an interview, which will help the selection board match you with a program. Upon acceptance, you'll be placed with a residency site. While you'll list your top choices in the application, final placement is up to the selection committee. Meet your jurisdiction’s licensing requirements. There are no universal licensing requirements or processes, so you'll need to look up the specific standards for your state or province. Completing a 4-year naturopathic degree program and passing the NPLEX Part I and II are basic necessities. As a rule of thumb, submit your application to your state or province's licensing board. Application requirements may include a form with your name and contact information, your official NPLEX scores, official copies of your transcripts, an affidavit verifying you've never been the subject of disciplinary action related to your practice, and an application fee, which is usually several hundred dollars (U.S.). Check your jurisdictions specific requirements and application process at https://fnmra.org/ras. Join a professional association of naturopathic physicians. In addition to adding to your credibility, professional organizations post valuable job listings. In the United States, the American Association of Naturopathic Physicians is the leading professional organization. Annual membership fees vary by membership type; student members pay around $100, while a regular membership costs around $500 per year (U.S.). To join, submit copies of your active ND (doctor of naturopathy) license and transcripts from an accredited program at https://www.naturopathic.org/assoc_subscribe.asp. If you're a student, submit a scanned copy of your student ID instead of an ND license. The only requirement to renew your membership is to pay your annual fee. Start out by joining another physician’s practice. At the start of your medical career, it's wise to work under an experienced naturopathic physician or at a naturopathic clinic. Typically, you should submit a C.V. (curriculum vitae) when applying to jobs in medical fields. In your C.V., highlight your professional experience, including your clinical practice, residency (if you completed one), and internships. If you chose a specialty, include experience and coursework related to your area of focus. Search listings your professional association's job board. To make your job search easier, seize networking opportunities while you're in school. You might be able to get a job at an office or clinic where you attended clinical coursework, interned, or completed your residency. Open your own practice once you’ve gained experience. When you have some experience under your belt, consider opening your own business. Scout locations for your office, invest in medical equipment and furniture, acquire licenses required by your state or province, and purchase malpractice and property insurance. Additionally, register your business with your local and federal governments. Starting off at a clinic or physician's practice can help you learn the ins and outs of running a naturopathic business. Consider teaching at a school with an accredited naturopathic program. In addition to clinical practice, you could help train the next generation of naturopathic medical professionals. If you'd like, teach part-time on the side while you continue running your practice. Stay in touch with your alma mater to nurture your network. If possible, present talks, lead seminars, or attend Q&A sessions to gain experience nurturing young minds. Conducting research and publishing academic papers will also make you an attractive candidate should you wish to enter academia. Check your professional organization for speaking opportunities, professional conferences, and publication calls for entry.	Take a mix of science and liberal arts classes as an undergraduate. Tour schools with accredited 4-year naturopathic degree programs. Submit your application by the deadline. Rent a place to live if you’re not staying on campus. Complete coursework in biomedicine and homeopathy. Choose a specialty if you’re interested in a particular area of medicine. Apply to take the NPLEX once you’ve met the eligibility requirements. Download the NPLEX resources offered with your exam registration. Start preparing for the exam at least 3 to 4 months in advance. Apply to take Part II once you’ve passed Part I. Retake Part I or Part II of the exam if you don't pass. Apply for a post-grad residency for more hands-on experience. Meet your jurisdiction’s licensing requirements. Join a professional association of naturopathic physicians. Start out by joining another physician’s practice. Open your own practice once you’ve gained experience. Consider teaching at a school with an accredited naturopathic program.
https://www.wikihow.com/Exercise-Your-Rabbit	How to Exercise Your Rabbit	To exercise your rabbit, try playing tag with it by running away when it comes towards you and then running after it when it runs away. You can also play games like fetch and hide and seek with treats to get your rabbit moving. Or, you can train your rabbit to wear a harness and walk on a leash so you can take it for walks every day. Additionally, leave toys out for your rabbit so it can play and exercise by itself when you're not around.	Play tag. Rabbits like to run around, including after people. If your rabbit is coming towards you, turn and run away so it will chase you. Then, turn around and start chasing your rabbit so it can run away in the other direction. You can turn around again to make your rabbit the pursuer once more. It may take a few times for your rabbit to figure out what you are doing, but once it learns that this is just a game, it's a great way to get some running exercise. It can be good to crawl while doing this. Being closer to the ground will help your rabbit get comfortable with you. Hold treats out for your rabbit to reach. This is good to get your rabbit to stretch out different parts of its body. Make sure the food is just out of regular reach so your rabbit has to really extend to get there. Hold a treat in your hand in the air above your rabbit's head. Make sure it has to stand up and stretch to get there. Put your rabbit on a box or table, and either hold or place a treat just off the edge. Your rabbit will need to stretch its neck to get there. Just make sure your rabbit doesn't slip or fall off the edge. Play fetch. Unlike with a dog, you will be the one doing the chasing here. Give your rabbit a toy and let it toss the toy in the air. Chase down the toy, and return it to your rabbit. Hide food. Take some small treats or pellets and hide them somewhere your rabbit likes to explore. It will smell the food, and try to hunt down a treat. Alternatively, you can put some raisins into a small paper bag, and let your rabbit dig around the bag to find them. Create a digging box. Rabbits love to dig around. Take a large cat litterbox, or something of similar size, and layer the bottom with newspapers. Put some crumpled up newspapers on top to encourage digging. Your rabbit will enjoy shredding and tearing apart the newspaper. By rummaging around in newspaper, your rabbit will probably get ink on its nose, paws, and other parts of its body. Don't worry, the ink is nontoxic, so your rabbit will be just fine. Train your rabbit to follow commands. Rabbits are intelligent creatures, and are quite easy to train. Think about commands you want your rabbit to follow, and create steps for it to accomplish them. Reward good behavior with praise and a treat, but just be sure the rabbit doesn't do something else first, or else you will be rewarding the wrong behavior. Include simple command words, like “Sit” or “Jump,” so your rabbit begins to associate those words with what you want it to do. Once your rabbit is getting the hang of its tricks, start weaning off the treats, so it only follows commands. Some good tricks include getting your rabbit to jump up and down onto places like the couch or your lap, running into and around certain parts of its play area, house breaking, or stopping aggressive behavior. You can also use a clicker to reinforce what you are doing. When you provide treats, also click so the rabbit associates the sound with a treat. Make sure you don't yell at or hit your rabbit during training. This will only make the rabbit uneasy or scared of you, which you definitely don't want. Your rabbit should associate your hands with food and affection, and if you hit your rabbit may become more aggressive. Walk your rabbit on a leash. If you want to take your rabbit out for a bit, attach it in a harness with a leash. Your rabbit will probably resist the harness at first, so make sure you have little delay between putting it on and going for your walk. Look for H-style harnesses, which you'll probably find the cat section of the pet store. Don't use harnesses or collars that go around the neck, as these can cinch the neck and cause injury. Make sure you have a stretchy leash, and don't tug too much while walking, as that is also a good way to hurt your rabbit. In general, rabbits will prefer more unstructured freedom to roam and explore rather than a restricted walk. Still, this can be another way to get your rabbit out for some movement. Never leave your rabbit leashed if you are not around. Left alone, your rabbit may chew through the leash, get tangled in it, or be unable to escape a predator. Give your rabbit 3 hours of free ranging time a day. Rabbits need up to 3 hours a day where they can run about and stretch their legs. If you allow your rabbit the space to roam around your house, this doesn't need to be structured playtime, which can be easier on your time. Get on the floor with your rabbit. Rabbits are curious and friendly, and you can do a lot to encourage your pet's activity by getting down on its level. Get down on the floor with your rabbit and its toys. The rabbit will explore around you, and may even follow you as you roam around your house. Move your rabbit around. If rabbits are given regular free range, especially indoors, they may get comfortable in particular places and spend too much time relaxing there. If you are worried about your rabbit settling, pick it up and move it to a different part of your house. The rabbit will get a little bit of exercise hopping back to the preferred location. Alternatively, you can confine your rabbit for a few hours, limiting the space it can move around in. That way, when you remove the barriers and let it free, your rabbit will be more likely to explore the parts it couldn't go before. You can also take some of your rabbit's favorite toys and move them to different areas. Your rabbit will want to track them down, and maybe bring them back where it thinks they belong. Watch for problems. Just like in humans, rabbits that don't get exercise will suffer from various health problems. If you notice your rabbit suffering from some of these concerns, you may need to take some time to get your rabbit exercising. You should also consult with your vet to see what else you should do to help your rabbit. Problems include: Obesity. Without exercise and a good diet, your rabbit will gain weight, which will add stress to other parts of its body, including the cardiovascular system and the pads of its feet. Your rabbit will even find it difficult to groom itself effectively. Keep an eye on your rabbit's weight, and make sure it is getting a healthy diet of grass hay and fresh foods. Behavioral problems. If your rabbit is not getting enough exercise, it may also become bored and unhealthy. Look out for signs that your rabbit isn't healthy such as lethargy, aggression, chewing cage bars or its own fur, or destroying parts of its cage. Leave toys around. Rabbits are curious and playful. While they may not always be interested in toys you have, leaving things around for them to play with will help prevent boredom. These don't need to be fancy toys bought at a pet store. Rabbits can enjoy themselves with untreated wood products, hard plastic baby toys, pine cones, oatmeal boxes, and phone books. Just be prepared for your rabbit to chew those items up. You can move toys around too. When something isn't where your rabbit expects it to be, it will naturally try to explore and learn more. Avoid toys made from cherry, redwood, and peach wood, as these materials can be poisonous to rabbits. Give your rabbit enough space. Rabbits are fast, active animals that like to run and jump around. In the wild, rabbits can run up to 3 miles every day. You probably don't have 3 miles to give your rabbit, but you want to make sure your rabbit's secure play area is large enough for it to move around. Ideally, your rabbit run will be at least 8 feet long and 4 wide with some kind of fence or barrier at least 4 feet high. Create raised platforms. Rabbits need to exercise their legs by jumping on and off raised areas. These don't need to be complicated things, maybe a box or chair that your rabbit will be able to jump on and off of. Keep these areas near grassy or soft areas for more comfortable landings. You can encourage your rabbit to jump up and down on these platforms by placing treats on top of them or back on the ground. Provide hiding places. Rabbits sometimes need an area where they can feel safe and secure. Your rabbit will also want an area that it can go to get out of wind and rain, or just go if it feels stressed and afraid, or simply wants to be alone. Make sure your shelters are big enough for your rabbit, and try to make more than one entrance if possible. Cardboard or wooden boxes, paper sacks, sections of wide-bore drain pipes, and shelves are all good places for a rabbit to hide. If you have multiple rabbits, make sure you have enough hiding spaces for each individual. Remove potential hazards from the area. Because of their curiosity and speed, rabbits can easily get themselves into trouble, even if you are watching. Make sure you've gotten rid of hazards or other things that can cause harm to your pet. Make sure the area is sealed off and doesn't have any small holes, like in a fence, where your rabbit can escape from the area. Outside of a den or other safe space you have set up for it, you don't want your rabbit to get somewhere you can't reach. Remove house plants and weeds to prevent your rabbit from eating something poisonous. Block off wires with a PVC pipe, or wrap them in electrical tape to prevent nibbling. Watch your rabbit at all times. If your rabbits are going to be let loose outside, you need to keep an eye on them at all times. Keep an eye out for possible escape attempts, poisonous items they may try to eat, and any predators that might be lurking nearby.	Play tag. Hold treats out for your rabbit to reach. Play fetch. Hide food. Create a digging box. Train your rabbit to follow commands. Walk your rabbit on a leash. Give your rabbit 3 hours of free ranging time a day. Get on the floor with your rabbit. Move your rabbit around. Watch for problems. Leave toys around. Give your rabbit enough space. Create raised platforms. Provide hiding places. Remove potential hazards from the area. Watch your rabbit at all times.
https://www.wikihow.com/Blend-Essential-Oils	How to Blend Essential Oils	To blend essential oils, try mixing different combinations of lavender, neroli, jasmine, ylang-ylang, and rose oil to get strong floral scents. If you'd prefer an earthy smell, experiment with oakmoss, patchouli, pine, and cedar oil. For an herbal scent, try mixing marjoram, rosemary, basil, and thyme oil. To make a minty smell, play around with peppermint, spearmint, and sage. Or, if you're looking for a citrus scent, try blending orange, lemon, lime, and bergamot oil.	Determine what type of scent you want. Different types of scents are often used to alleviate different issues. Think about what type of scent you want. There are general categories of essential oil scent, and oils in any one category tend to mix well with their own kind. That said, you can mix scents from different categories. Try experimenting with different types of scents. Floral: Lavender, neroli, jasmine, ylang ylang, rose Earthy : Oakmoss, patchouli, pine, cedar Herbal: Marjoram, rosemary, basil, thyme Minty: Peppermint, spearmint, sage Spicy: Nutmeg, clove, cinnamon, black pepper Citrus: Orange, lemon, lime, bergamot Choose top, middle, and base notes. The note of an oil refers to the length of time that it takes to evaporate. Top notes evaporate the quickest while base notes linger for a long time. If you want your oils to hold their aroma for a certain time, choose a good base note that pairs well with top and middle notes. Top notes evaporate within one or two hours. They include anise, basil, citronella, eucalyptus, lavender, spearmint, orange, and lemongrass. Middle notes evaporate within two to four hours. They include fennel, nutmeg, tea tree, jasmine, and chamomile. Base notes last for up to a few days. They include balsam, cedarwood, ginger, patchouli, and oakmoss. Test your blend. Dip one cotton swab into each bottle of oil. You should use one swab per bottle. Hold these about a foot away from your nose, and swirl them in circles in the air. This will give you a sense of what the scent combination will smell like. If you do not like it, try removing one of the cotton swabs, and try again. This will help you find a good combination of aromas for your blend. You can also use cotton balls or fragrance testing strips to try out your scents. Mix the oils. Once you have determined your essential oil blend, you can start adding them together. Using a pipette or dropper, drop the measured amounts of your top, middle, and base notes into a clean mixing bowl or into a glass vial. Drop the correct amount of drops as stated per the recipe you are using. If you are unsure how much to use, you can follow a few different guidelines: The 30-50-20 rule: your mixture is 30% of your top note, 50% of your middle note, and 20% of your base note. The 1-2-3 Rule: For every one drop of your base note, you have two drops of your middle note and three drops of your top note. You should mix your essential oils together first before adding any carriers or diluting agents. Find a carrier oil if you want to apply it to the skin. If you are applying essential oils to the skin, you will need to dilute them with a carrier oil first. Essential oils are highly concentrated, and by applying them directly to your skin without a carrier oil, you risk permanent damage to your skin. Carrier oils are typically vegetable oils. Good carrier oils include: Sweet Almond Oil Rosehip Oil Avocado Oil Sesame Oil Jojoba Oil Hemp Seed Oil Olive Oil Grape Seed Oil Add a dispersing agent if you want to use it in the bath. If you are not planning to rub it directly on the skin but do want to use it in the bath, you should use a dispersing agent. A dispersing agent will help the oil spread through the bath safely. While some vegetable oils can be used as a dispersing agent, others, like coconut oil, are too thick for use in the bath. Try using an oil with a lighter, more liquid viscosity. Some good agents include: Honey Milk Jojoba Oil Sweet Almond Oil Mix with alcohol for a perfume. Perfumes are used in smaller applications. While you can use jojoba oil for a perfume, alcohol is typically the preferred diluting agent. Use between ten and fifteen drops of essential oil blend per half ounce (15 ml) of alcohol or jojoba oil. Determine your proportion of ingredients. Once you have mixed your essential oils, you can add them to a carrier oil or dispersing agent, depending on your use of the oil. How much of each ingredient you mix together depends on how you are planning on using your essential oil. For massages, use between fifteen and twenty drops of essential oil blend per ounce of carrier oil. For lotions or skin oils, use between three and fifteen drops per ounce of carrier oil. For use on children, use three to six drops per ounce of carrier oil. For baths, use between two and twelve drops of oil per ounce of dispersing agent. If you are using essential oils for smelling or inhaling only, you do not need a carrier oil. Combine the essential oil blend with the diluting agent. You can combine your ingredients in a bowl or in a bottle. If you are mixing your oils in a bowl, you should mix the oil by stirring the oil with a spoon. Wooden stir sticks may also help. If you are mixing your oils in a bottle, you can gently swirl the bottle in your hand to mix the oils. Store in a bottle. Glass vials, bottles, and sprayers are a good way to store your essential oil blends. Amber bottles with a volume of two to four millimeters are often recommended to store essential oils. Carefully pour the blended oil inside the container; you may use a funnel if it helps. Keep the blend in a cool, dark area. Carrier oils may expire more quickly than essential oils. Blends with rosehip, sesame, or sweet almond oil can be stored for 6-12 months. Jojoba oil and coconut oil are very stable and may last indefinitely. You may also store the blended oil in the refrigerator. The exception to this is any blend containing avocado oil, which should not be stored in the fridge. Do not use if your oils smell bitter or rancid. Do not store the oils in direct sunlight or near a stove. Wait a few days. The scent of an essential oil blend can change as the oils settle. Let the essential oil sit for three or four days before you try smelling it again. Note if the scent has changed significantly. This will tell you how a blend ages. By aging some of your blends, you might find more satisfying scents.	Determine what type of scent you want. Choose top, middle, and base notes. Test your blend. Mix the oils. Find a carrier oil if you want to apply it to the skin. Add a dispersing agent if you want to use it in the bath. Mix with alcohol for a perfume. Determine your proportion of ingredients. Combine the essential oil blend with the diluting agent. Store in a bottle. Wait a few days.
https://www.wikihow.com/Defend-Against-a-Ram	How to Defend Against a Ram	Rams are known for charging and headbutting, so if you're going to be around one, it's good to know a few ways to defend yourself if it decides to charge you. When a ram backs away, it's typically a sign that it's going to charge you, so try walking toward the ram to disorient it. You can also wave a large stick at it to appear threatening. Another technique is to stand your ground until the ram lunges, then dodge to the side to escape its charge. To avoid a charge, keep your eyes on the ram at all times. You'll also want to avoid scratching or pushing its head, since this can be seen as a sign of aggression. Watching your own posture is also key. Since rams tend to lower their heads before charging, avoid lowering your head or else it may think you're an opponent. Instead, keep your head upright around the ram.	Walk toward a ram that you see backing away from you. When a ram backs away, it usually means that it is planning to charge you. In nature, another ram would also back away to accept the challenge. If you walk toward the ram you may be able to disorient it long enough to make an escape. Your main objective is to get to a gate and get out of the situation, so if walking toward the ram means walking away from a gate, you may need to take a different approach. Don't run toward the ram as it may see this as a charge. Simply walk at an even pace toward the animal. If the ram backs up and you keeping walking toward it for long enough, it will most likely charge at some point, so be ready to perform another defensive technique. Wave a large stick at the ram when it charges. You'll probably need to carry the stick into the pen with you ahead of time. A stick that is three or four feet long and a couple inches thick is ideal. As the ram charges hold the stick out in front of you and swing it in a downward motion. This may stop the ram in its tracks, but you should also be prepared to dodge in case it does not stop completely. Stand your ground until the ram lunges and dodge to the side. It may be scary to stand still while the ram charges you, but running away is not an option since they can run up to 40 mph. When the ram gets close to you, it will get onto its hind legs, meaning it can't move side to side. This is the moment when you dodge to the side. Since the ram is expecting to butt its head against something after it lunges, it will be confused when it only hits air. Use this time to make your next move. Wrestle the ram to the ground. If you are able, grab the ram's horn as it gets near to you and let its momentum swing the ram in a circle. If you can grab its back leg you may be able to bring it to the ground. This is a risky maneuver and should only be done in dire circumstances. Grab either the right horn with your right hand or the left horn with your left hand and swing the ram around the same side of your body as the hand you grabbed with. As the ram swings in a circle, you may be able to grab a hold of the other horn and twist the ram's head in a way that will bring it to the ground. Keep your eyes on the ram at all times. If a ram decides to charge, it can get to you pretty quickly, so it is highly advised to never turn your back on a nearby ram. Knowing where the ram is at all times is the most effective safety measure. This takes vigilance, but it is the kind of proactive measure that is most likely to pay off. If you can see the ram always, then you have a better chance at defending yourself in case of a charge. To the end of always having eyes on the ram, it is advisable to work with at least one other person, which can help you get done what you need to while still keeping the ram in sight. Avoid scratching or pushing a ram’s head. The ram's head is its main weapon, so touching its head can be taken by the ram as a sign of aggression. This is why it's especially important never to pet a ram on the head. Even if it seems friendly, this act can change the ram's demeanor quickly. Rams that were raised as pets may get close and nuzzle in a way that encourages you to pet them, but you have to avoid it no matter what. Pushing a ram's head, even more than scratching or petting, will be taken as an act of aggression against it and can lead a ram to become aggressive. Keep your head upright around a ram. When a ram is about to charge, it lowers its head. So if a ram sees you lower your head toward it, this will be taken as a sign that you are an opponent. If you lower your head, you are challenging the ram and you may cause it to charge you. This is especially important to keep in mind if you happen to drop something and need to bend over to pick it up. You should squat and keep your head upright as much as possible so the ram doesn't see you lower your head.	Walk toward a ram that you see backing away from you. Wave a large stick at the ram when it charges. Stand your ground until the ram lunges and dodge to the side. Wrestle the ram to the ground. Keep your eyes on the ram at all times. Avoid scratching or pushing a ram’s head. Keep your head upright around a ram.
https://www.wikihow.com/Use-a-Turkey-Call	How to Use a Turkey Call	To use a turkey call, start by listening to recordings of wild turkeys to hear what they actually sound like. Then, get a box call and wipe down the moving surfaces with a wax-free chalk. To do a yelp call, hold the box in one hand and the lid in the other, and slowly slide the lid across the open box with pressure. To do a gobble, hold the box in your hand vertically, and shake it slowly back and forth so that the lid clatters against the box. For a cackle, shake the box faster for a shorter sound.	Listen to turkeys. Before you start making calls of your own, you need a solid handle on what turkey calls sound like. You can't imitate what you don't understand. Find recordings of different turkey sounds, or better yet, sit down in the forest and listen to them. Recognize that turkeys are social animals'; they travel in groups and make noises to communicate. Your turkey calls will be best if you think of them as language, not just noise. A variety of turkey calls can gain turkey's attention, pull or push them in certain directions, and either soothe or scare them. Buy a box call. This type of call is popular and reliable, and is well-known for being the easiest to learn for novices. Because it is so easy to use, you can start using the box call as you develop an ear for sounds. Experimenting with it will help you differentiate between the calls, and what it takes in terms of pressure, friction, and duration to produce them. Box calls can be purchased over the Internet, but many like to buy them in person, so they can test them beforehand. You can get a solid one for around $15 (USD), but many cost $30 or more. Wooden box calls have been around for over a century. There are many types of wood available, all valuable for their versatility and timbre. Aluminum box calls are also useful, as they last longer in wet weather. Chalk it up. Before you practice with your box call or set out to hunt with it, rub down the moving surfaces with a wax-free chalk. (This should be available where you purchase your other hunting supplies.) It's a good idea to do this at least once during your hunting session, as well. Try a yelp. Yelps are some of the most well-known turkey calls, so they're a good one to master. Slide the lid of the box, across the open box with pressure to create friction. Swing it smoothly to create a full sound--don't stop in the middle. This sound imitates the noise a turkey makes when trying to reconnect with its flock. Hold the paddle gently instead of pulling it firmly. You can vary the sound of the yelp by changing the speed and friction you use. Yelps are a good basic, but not the end-all be-all of turkey calls. Don't rest on your laurels once you've mastered this sound--keep learning new ones. Gobble and cackle. Hold the box call vertically (so that its long end is perpendicular to the forest floor). Now, shake it vigorously so that the lid clatters against the box. Do this a bit more slowly to make a gobble (a noise meant to attract female turkeys and challenge tom turkeys). Moving more quickly will produce a cackle (which turkeys use to communicate their locations to one another). Use this call to provoke the turkey to gobble in response, thus give away its location. As you do this, don't move around too much. Because the box call requires physical activity, the motion can easily spook the birds if they are nearby. Purchase a few slate calls. Opt for the slate call if you want something a little more challenging; this is a favorite among the experts. Like box calls, they are percussive, and consist of two parts: the call itself, a flat circle made of slate, glass, or another material, and strikers, sticks shaped like screwdrivers. You may also hear them referred to as pot-and-peg calls; this is correct as well. Each combination of striker and slate makes a different sound as you rub the striker on the slate, so get a few and experiment. Yelp with the striker. Now that you have your slate call, learn the basic: the yelp. The pitch and volume of this will sound different depending on which slate and striker you use, so it's good to practice with a variety of tools. Experiment to discover what works best for you. To get the basic motion of using a slate call, press the striker firmly to the slate, then quickly circle the striker around it. To improve the yelp, try drawing a fish-hook shape with the striker (instead of a circle shape). This will produce a “ye-OW” sound, which is even more accurate. Learn clucks, putts, and cutts. These very different sounds start with a similar motion--all you need to do to change the meaning is vary the speed and pressure of the movement. To cluck, putt, or cut, pull the striker horizontally and sharply on the slate. Clucking is the most relaxed of the three--it's a turkey's way of telling other turkeys where it is. Because it's a slow call, your movement should be, too. Putting is an alarm sound, so if you're trying to attract turkeys, it's to be avoided. If you're a wildlife photographer who wants to photograph them on the move, it's perfect. Make the same motion, but do it with more force and rhythm. Cutting is mostly quick clucking, with a few yelps. It's the noise a hen makes when she's in the mood, so it's popular for attracting toms. Use the slate to purr. How is a turkey at peace like a cat at peace? They both like to purr. To make this contented sound, drag the striker vertically and slowly across the slate with some pressure. Unlike many well-known turkey calls, this should be a soft and comforting noise, not a sharp one. Sand your slate call. If you want slate calls and strikers so sound their best, then periodically, you will need to remove grime from their surfaces. If you're working with a slate call made of actual slate, then a gentle application of fine-grit sandpaper is the best way to get the job done. Rub it down with the sandpaper at the end of the season, and any time you notice a visible buildup of grime. Store slate calls in a sealed plastic bag off-season, in a spot with stable temperature and humidity. Never touch the surface of your slate call with your hands! This will make it oily, marring the sound. Buy a single or double-reed diaphragm call. Diaphragm calls, or mouth calls, are tricky to use, but their range makes them popular with turkey hunters anyway. Unlike box and slate calls, they aren't held in your hands. Instead, a mouth call is a rubber or latex organ that fits in the mouth, up against the palate. Single-reed calls have the best range: you can make a wide variety of noises, and make those noises carry farther, with them. However, they're hard to learn. Double-reed calls are a bit more limited, but they're much easier to use. Practice moving your mouth. Since mouth calls don't require the use of your hands, they're convenient, but require learning a different set of motions. Find a quiet place where you won't be interrupted, and get your mouth used to the way it feels to have the call inside it. Here are some exercises you should try. Start by placing the call in your mouth. Keep the open end facing outside, then push the call up to the roof of your mouth with your tongue. Exhale so that the air is forced between your tongue and the call. Press your tongue hard against the reed, then blow. You will produce a higher sound this way. Now press more gently. With low pressure, the sounds will be lower tones. Exhale syllables, such as "chuck" or “pip,” between tongue and reed. This will help you hear the distinct sounds they produce. Trim the call to fit your mouth. Now that you've gotten the idea of how it feels to manipulate the call, you'll want to ensure a custom fit. If it feels a little too large in your mouth, carefully trim along the edge with clean scissors, then pop it back in to check the fit. Remember to trim conservatively--you can always cut more if you need to. Begin yelping. The classic yelp isn't hard to do with a mouth call. Try saying the word “chuck” repeatedly. Experiment with different volumes and pitches to mix it up, and remember: a yelp is the first call you'll learn on the mouth call, but not the only one. Cackle and cutt. Toms are usually the ones who cackle (or gobble), while hens are the chief cutters. There may be a sex difference in the way these sounds are deployed, but the motion for each is the same. Simply place your call in your mouth, and say “kit kit kit” several times. Make the sound quicker for cackling. Try listening to recorded cackles and gobbles until you feel you can get it right. Slow the sound down a bit to cut. Practice purrs. Purring is especially tricky on the mouth call. Some mouth call users prefer fluttering their lips around the call (as if they're blowing a raspberry), while others roll a syllable in the back of their throat (as if they're gargling). Experiment to figure out which works best for you.	Listen to turkeys. Buy a box call. Chalk it up. Try a yelp. Gobble and cackle. Purchase a few slate calls. Yelp with the striker. Learn clucks, putts, and cutts. Use the slate to purr. Sand your slate call. Buy a single or double-reed diaphragm call. Practice moving your mouth. Trim the call to fit your mouth. Begin yelping. Cackle and cutt. Practice purrs.
https://www.wikihow.com/Replace-an-Axe-Handle	How to Replace an Axe Handle	To replace an axe handle, purchase a new handle suited to your axe and remove the old one by drilling or sawing it off. Next, mark the saw wedge, or kerf, of the new handle with a pencil and test the fit by manually pushing it in and striking the other end. Then, shorten the handle if necessary, fill in the kerf with a wedge, and secure the handle in place by adding metal wedges in the eye. Finally, saw off the protruding wedge and treat your new handle with a coat of mineral oil.	Acquire a handle suited to your axe. Axe handles are typically standardized, meaning that it should be easy for you to find a handle that fits your axe's blade. Axe handles may be purchased at a home hardware store. If you're networked with any woodworkers, they may be enticed into carving you a handle for a fee as well. Purchasing a new axe outright is an option if you're going to the store to pick up a handle. Due to the fact that handles can be replaced fairly easily however, this is only recommended if you're strapped for time and need a new axe in a hurry. If you're truly a DIY type, you might consider making an axe handle from scratch. Keep in mind, however, that this will require a lot of exact measurements and precise woodworking. Remove the old handle. Because you won't be using the old handle, it doesn't matter if you damage it. Get out the old handle however you can. Here are a few ways you might go about it: Drill into the handle through the hole in the axe. Once you have a sufficient hole, insert a metal wedge and thrust it out by hitting the wedge with a hammer. Hammer out the handle outright by using a chisel. Don't be afraid to bash it hard. After all, the old handle will be replaced as soon as it's out of there. Saw off the handle, then hammer out the bit of handle that's still inside the blade. Clean the eye of the axe. Even if you take your time to eject the old handle from the blade, there may still be debris in there. Push out the excess pieces with a chisel, then smooth out the insides. Using sandpaper on the inside of the axe will ensure that all of the old handle has been properly removed. The "eye" refers to the hole in the axe blade that the handle fits into. Mark the kerf of the new handle with a pencil. Many storebought handles will come with a pre-made kerf. The "kerf" refers to the saw wedge in the top of the handle. This allows the handle to fit into the eye of the axe. Find the point on the handle where the kerf ends and trace a pencil line around the handle. This will offer a visual reference of how deep your handle needs to go. Test fit the handle. The handle may need few tries to get in properly. Push it in and try to get it in manually at first. Next, tap it in lightly with a blunt piece of wood. Each time you push it in, check how far it gets in based on the bottom of the kerf. Although you shouldn't apply very much pressure when you're first starting out, this will hopefully give you a proper idea of the measurements the top of your handle needs to be. Take measurements following each test fitting. Cut down the handle as the test fittings suggest. If an inch of kerfed handle is sticking out, for example, it means you'll have to shave down an equal amount of your handle accordingly. Don't strike the handle with a metal hammer. Metal risks damaging the wooden handle. Strike in the handle. In order to fit the handle into the blade, force will be needed even in the kerf offers space inside the blade eye. Take a piece of blunt wood and strike the other end of the handle. Use the handle like a wedge and try to push it into the Avoid excessive force when pushing in the handle. This includes striking it on the ground or using a steel hammer. Instead, pick something blunt that will deliver sufficient force without risking damage to the handle itself. Shorten the handle if necessary. After you have test placed it a few times, you should be able to narrow down how much of the axe's top handle needs shortening. The handle should be able to fit all the way into the axe blade's eye. If it can't fit, narrow it down to a point where it could fit into and fil all of the hollow space within the blade. A rasp is a serrated tool meant to cut down wood smoothly. Files and rifflers may also be used to file down a length of wood. Allow at least half an inch between the bottom of the kerf and the main handle. Fill in the kerf with a wedge. Filling in the opening on the other side of the axe's eye will prevent it from moving around as much. You can do this by lightly tapping a thin wedge of wood into the kerf, and securing it with layers of carpenter's glue. Add metal wedges in the eye. To secure it further after wedging the kerf, add metal wedges by hammering them into place. This will add another layer of protection to your axe and help ensure that the kerf's wedge doesn't fall out of place. Adding the wedges diagonally can help improve stability. Saw off the protruding wedge. After you've worked on securing the handle from protruding side, it's a good idea to saw it down. Sawing down the protruding side will maximize the force of your swing. Keep a few millimetres on the end of the handle for good measure. Tighten a loose handle with extra glue. If you have followed through with all of the stability measures and still aren't sure the handle will hold, you can fill whatever cracks that remain with glue. Using glue may make it difficult to replace this handle when its use runs out. If you're the sort of person who goes through a lot of axe handles, it may be best to skip out on the glue. Chair Doctor is a highly recommended product for this. It is a thin viscosity liquid designed to fill in loose gaps. Protect your handle with a coat of mineral oil. Bottles of mineral oil are relatively cheap, and can be used to restore life to a drab handle. Drip some mineral oil into a handcloth and apply it consistently to the axe handle. Let it sit for a few minutes afterwards while the oils soak in. Because oil will help block out moisture, it's especially important to use mineral oil on your handle if you're using or storing the axe in a moisture-heavy environment. Put your axe to use. After you replace the handle, it should serve you well for months or years to come. Your handle's longevity will depend on how well you take care of the axe. Don't swing it irresponsibly, and store it in a safe place when you're done with it. Excess force in your axe swing can be avoided if you remember to sharpen the axe's blade regularly. Always use a proper chopping block. Making sure the object you're chopping has a solid foundation will limit the risk of potential injury.	Acquire a handle suited to your axe. Remove the old handle. Clean the eye of the axe. Mark the kerf of the new handle with a pencil. Test fit the handle. Strike in the handle. Shorten the handle if necessary. Fill in the kerf with a wedge. Add metal wedges in the eye. Saw off the protruding wedge. Tighten a loose handle with extra glue. Protect your handle with a coat of mineral oil. Put your axe to use.
https://www.wikihow.com/Send-Money-from-India	How to Send Money from India	To send money from India, try using a third-party transfer service, like Money2World, PayPal, or Book My Forex, which allow you to send up to $25,000 USD per month per transaction. You can also visit your bank and fill out an application to send money abroad, or you can use your bank's online transfer service if it offers one. Keep in mind that you may want to send your money in a foreign currency instead of in rupees since rupees are subject to more restrictions.	Visit a bank. Many banks will allow you to visit a branch and fill out an application to remit money abroad. You may be limited in the methods of remittance you can use with this method. For instance, you may only be able to apply for a wire transfer or Foreign Currency Demand Draft (FCDD). You may also be required to be an account holder at the particular bank. Whether or not you are an account holder, be prepared to: Show identification, such as a passport Give information on the recipient of your funds, including an account number to transfer the money to Show proof of the purpose of your remittance, such as an invoice Choose an account (checking, savings, etc.) to transfer your funds from Use an online banking service. If your bank offers online banking services, you may be able to remit money online. Log in to your bank's online service, and look for a “transfer” or “remittance” option. You will need to give information on the recipient of your funds (including an account number to transfer the money to), and you may need to show prof of the purpose of your remittance, such as an invoice. Use a third-party transfer service. These include Money2World, PayPal, or Book My Forex, and services offered by some banks to non-account holders. These are subject to a limit of $25,000 USD per month per transaction. If you are not an accountholder at the institution making your outward remittance, you will need to provide proof of identification and residence (such as a passport). You will most likely have to complete a one-time registration process, which will record your account number and other personal information. This information will be used to verify the remittance, and any that you would like to make in the future. You may also be required to register and verify the recipient of your remittance. This is to protect the security of your fund, to prevent fraud, and to make future remittances more streamlined. After you register with a funds transfer service, you will most likely have to wait a short period of time (such as 24 hours) before you can use the service for an outward remittance. Send a remittance in an international currency such as US dollars (USD) or Euro. Outward remittances sent in rupees are subject to more restrictions than those sent in foreign currencies. You can arrange to have money sent from India in a foreign currency, such as USD or Euro, as long as you have access to this money via a checking or other account. These foreign funds can then be sent in a variety of ways, including wire transfers and checks. Be prepared to provide proof of the purpose of your remittance, such as an invoice. You can purchase foreign currency from many banks as well as private currency exchanges. You can also remit money in a foreign currency using an FCDD (available through many banks and financial institutions), although this will be converted from rupees, and therefore subject to the restrictions imposed by the Indian government. You must know each remittance transfer provider is offering an own exchange rate. It means the exchange rate of Western Union is different from the real mid-market rate. You could use a price comparison portal to find out about the hidden fees. Make sure that the funds will be used for an acceptable purpose. Outward remittances are typically restricted to certain purposes. You must also provide proof of the purpose, such as an invoice, bill, or debit note. The invoice or other document must be in the same name as the account requesting the remittance. You may send money from India when it will be used abroad for one of the following Education expenses Emigration fees Employment Care for a close relative Medical treatments Visa fees Police verification Visits abroad for private purposes Keep your outward remittances within acceptable limits. Most funds transfer services have limits on the amount on money that can be sent from India. For most purposes (called “Small Value Remittances”) the limit is $25,000 USD per financial year. One exception is the Liberalized Remittance Scheme, which allows Indian residents to send up to $125,000 USD per financial year for purchasing shares or debt investments in a company abroad. You can remit up to $100,000 for medical expenses, and more if a doctor estimates a cost above this. You may send $100,000 per financial year for medical, educational, employment, familial, or emigration expenses if you are an Indian resident. Corporations are not eligible for this program. Accounts held by non-residents are not subjected to these limits. Choose how the funds will be distributed. Typically, there is more than one way to send funds to a beneficiary via an outward remittance. Fees for the remittance will vary based on the type of service you use, and the amount of money you remit. Common ones include: Wire transfer. This method sends funds from one account to another quickly and electronically, in the amount you specify in your currency. The fees for this service may be relatively higher, but it is the best choice when you want to send a specific amount in your currency. A Foreign Currency Demand Draft (FCDD) sends a specific amount in a foreign currency, and withdraws the equivalent amount from your account in your currency. Funds may be delivered as soon as the next business day. Common foreign currencies used are US Dollars and Euro; however, your bank may offer FCDD's in numerous others. FCDD's typically have lower fees than wire transfers, and are the best choice when you need to send a specific amount in a foreign currency. Have the funds debited from your account. If you are an accountholder at the bank or service making your outward remittance, then the funds will be withdrawn from the account you have specified. If you are a non-accountholder, you will need to make a payment by check, draft, or cash deposit for the funds that you want to remit.	Visit a bank. Use an online banking service. Use a third-party transfer service. Send a remittance in an international currency such as US dollars (USD) or Euro. Make sure that the funds will be used for an acceptable purpose. Keep your outward remittances within acceptable limits. Choose how the funds will be distributed. Have the funds debited from your account.
https://www.wikihow.com/Start-a-Weed-Whacker	How to Start a Weed Whacker	To start a gas powered weed whacker, start by placing it on the ground and flipping the kill switch on. Once the kill switch is engaged, find the choke and switch it to the “on” or “closed” position, which will allow you to cold start your weed whacker. Then, press the purge valve 5 to 6 times to push fresh gas into the carburetor. After your engine is primed, place your hand on the throttle lock and pull the cord 2 or 3 times until the engine starts to run. With the engine running, switch the choke back to the “run” position and pull the cord 1 more time to get your weed whacker ready to use.	Place the weed whacker on the ground, away from obstructions. This will give you more leverage as you try to start the weed whacker. Additionally, you want to make sure any object that could get caught in the spinning line is kept well away. Make sure the gas tank is sealed before starting your weed whacker. Always use the right kind of gas mixture because most weed whackers are two cycle. Flip the kill switch on. The location of this switch will vary depending on the weed whacker you're using. You can usually find it somewhere on the shaft. The kill switch controls the flow of electricity to the motor. It's also referred to as a the “on/off switch”; if it's kept off, the engine cannot start. Switch the choke to the “on” or “closed” position. This is only something you need to do if cold starting your weed whacker. A cold start refers to any time you need to start an engine when its temperature is colder than the temperature it usually runs at. The choke will restrict the airflow into the engine, making it easier to start it. If you've used the weed whacker in the past five minutes, the engine should still be warm enough. You won't need to switch on the choke or use the purge valve. Press the purge valve five to six times. The purge valve is a bulbous piece of rubber, similar in shape and size to the tip of a finger. It's also sometimes referred to as a “primer bulb”. Pressing this bulb will allow fresh gas to enter the carburetor. This step is only needed when cold starting the weed whacker. If it doesn't start, keep pressing the purge valve. Sometimes if the weed whacker has been sitting around it needs more priming. Place your hand on the throttle lock and pull the cord. The throttle lock is a small lever usually found on top of the weed whacker's shaft. You should only have to pull the cord two or three times before the engine starts to run. Be sure not to pull on the trigger below the shaft; you don't need to give the weed whacker any gas for it to start. Stop pulling the cord once you hear the engine running. If done correctly, you'll then hear the engine stop working; it'll essentially “burp”, running only for a few seconds. Make sure not to pull the cord after you hear the engine die down. Switch the choke to the run position. Now that you've been able to start the engine, you don't need the assistance of the choke. Resuming proper air flow to the engine will keep it efficient. While the choke allows for a cold engine to be started more easily, it will lead to higher fuel consumption if kept on while you use the weed whacker. Place your hand on the throttle lock and pull the cord again. Be sure not to pull on the trigger below the shaft; you don't need to give the weed whacker any gas for it to start. Keep pulling the cord until the engine starts. It should now keep running, rather than simply burping. The weed whacker is now ready to use! For a warm start, you should only need to follow this step. There's no need to fiddle with the purge valve, and you should make sure the choke is on the run position. Plug the weed whacker into an outlet. Make sure to use an extension cord that's long enough to cover the area you will be trimming. Some weed whackers have a clip on the handle where you can loop the extension cord. This prevents it from disconnecting if it gets caught as you use the weed whacker. Some electric weed whackers are battery powered. If this is the case, you'll need to make sure you've charged the weed whacker before trying to start it. Make sure the trigger isn't held down when plugging in the weed whacker. Pull the trigger. The advantage of electric weed whackers is they're ready to be used once they've been plugged in. The line will start spinning as soon as you pull the trigger. Make sure to keep the weed whacker away from you and any surface that could be damaged by it. Note the differences between electric and gas powered weed whackers. While a gas powered weed whacker demands several steps before starting, electric weed whackers are much simpler. You won't find a kill switch or a pull cord on an electric weed whacker. You should only need to pull the trigger to get it working.	Place the weed whacker on the ground, away from obstructions. Flip the kill switch on. Switch the choke to the “on” or “closed” position. Press the purge valve five to six times. Place your hand on the throttle lock and pull the cord. Stop pulling the cord once you hear the engine running. Switch the choke to the run position. Place your hand on the throttle lock and pull the cord again. Plug the weed whacker into an outlet. Pull the trigger. Note the differences between electric and gas powered weed whackers.
https://www.wikihow.tech/Replace-an-iPhone-Battery	How to Replace an iPhone Battery	To replace an iPhone's battery, you will have to disassemble the phone using a Pentalobe screw driver and a prying item (such as a spudger). Once your phone's screen has been separated from the rest of the iPhone's housing, you can remove the pieces of hardware and brackets holding down the battery, after which point you'll be able to remove the battery and replace it with a new one.	Make sure the iPhone is turned off. Failing to turn off the phone can result in a shorted circuit. To turn off your iPhone 7, press and hold the Lock button on the right side of the phone's casing, then slide the slide to power off switch at the top of the screen right. Remove the Pentalobe screws from each side of the Lightning port. The Lightning port is at the bottom of the phone. You'll need a 3.4 millimeter Pentalobe P2 screwdriver to remove the two screws here. Place a gentle heating pad on the bottom of the iPhone 7. Doing so will loosen the adhesive that holds the screen in place, which will allow you to lift the display up later. Leave the heating pad for five minutes before proceeding. Place a suction cup on the front of the iPhone. Place it at the bottom of the screen, directly above the Home button. Pull up on the suction cup to lift the screen. The screen should only lift a fraction of an inch away from the case. Pulling too hard may rip the display from the case, so be gentle. Hold the rest of the iPhone down with your other hand while you pull the suction cup. If the screen won't come up, try heating the bottom of the iPhone for another few minutes. Insert your spudger into the space in the lower-left corner of the iPhone. There should be a space created by gently pulling up on the suction cup, and your spudger should fit snugly into the gap. Make sure you're using a plastic spudger and not a metal one, as a metal spudger will damage your phone. Slide the spudger up the left side, then repeat on the right side. Twisting the spudger back and forth should gently pry the screen away from the phone's casing. Do not use the spudger near the top of the phone--there are plastic clips that hold the top of the screen in place, and doing so will break them. Instead, only move the spudger about halfway up each side. Lift the screen up to form a ten-degree angle with the phone's case. Lifting the screen any higher than this will break the fragile display cables, so err on the side of caution when doing this. Slide a thin card or guitar pick along the top of the iPhone. Doing so will unstick the last of the adhesive there. Pull the screen down toward the bottom of the phone. You should only have to pull it a few millimeters down to clear the plastic clips at the top of the iPhone Open the display to the right. It should fold open like a book, with the interior of the iPhone now exposed and the still-connected display and screen face-down to the right of the case. Remove the four tri-point screws from the lower display bracket. This silver bracket is on the lower-right side of the iPhone's interior; there's a ribbon connecting it to the display part of the phone. You'll find four screws attaching the bracket to the phone, three of which require a 1.2 millimeter screwdriver and one of which needs a 2.6 millimeter screwdriver. Remove the display bracket and set it aside. You'll see two black strips of plastic beneath it: one running parallel to the battery, and one running perpendicular. Use the spudger to lift up the perpendicular plastic strip. This strip is the battery connector; detaching it will disconnect the display from your iPhone's battery. Use the spudger to lift up the parallel plastic strip and the grey strip beneath it. Doing so will detach the ribbon here from the iPhone's interior, thereby disconnecting one of the two display ribbons. Unscrew the bracket over the second display ribbon. This silver bracket is at the top-right corner of the phone's interior. You'll find three tri-point screws here: one 1.3 millimeter, and two 1.0 millimeter. Remove the bracket. You should see another black piece of plastic that's perpendicular to the battery; this is the connector for the second display ribbon. Use the spudger to pry up the connector. Doing so will remove the second display ribbon from the iPhone's interior. Set the iPhone's display assembly aside. It should be completely removed at this point. Remove the two Phillips (+) screws from the barometric vent. This black bracket is in the bottom-left corner of the iPhone's case. You'll find a 2.9 millimeter screw and a 2.1 millimeter screw holding it down. Remove the barometric vent. You should now be looking at the Taptic Engine's connector, which is a black piece of plastic like the rest of the connectors you've unattached so far. Pry up the Taptic Engine's connector with your spudger. Doing so will disconnect the Taptic Engine from your iPhone's logic board, which will in turn allow you to remove the Taptic Engine. Remove the three Phillips screws from the Taptic Engine. All three of these screws are 1.5 millimeter screws. Lift gently the Taptic Engine out of the case. With the Taptic Engine out of the way, you're finally ready to remove the iPhone's battery. Peel back the three adhesive strips from the bottom of the battery. You'll want to use a pair of needle-nose pliers or tweezers for this step. Pull one of the adhesive strips toward you. Do this gently, since wrinkling or tearing the adhesive strip will make it extremely difficult to remove your iPhone's battery. After enough pulling, the strip will slide out from under the battery. If one of the adhesive strips tears and renders the battery impossible to remove: lay the iPhone on a heating pad for a few minutes to loosen the adhesive, then pry out the battery with a thin plastic card inserted on the left side of the battery. Pull the other two strips out. Make sure you're holding down the battery while pulling out the last one so that the battery doesn't get ejected from the iPhone's interior. Remove your iPhone's battery. At this point, you can place a new battery in the iPhone, or let the phone dry as needed if it has suffered water damage. Make sure the iPhone is turned off. Make sure the iPhone is completely turned off, not just in Sleep mode. Press and hold the Power button, then swipe the slider to turn the iPhone off. Remove the two Pentalobe screws on each side of the Lightning port. This is the charging port at the bottom of the iPhone. You'll need a Pentalobe P2 screwdriver to remove them. The size varies slightly depending on the model: 6 and 6 Plus - 3.6 mm Pentalobe 6S and 6S Plus - 3.4 mm Pentalobe Place a suction cup on the front of the iPhone right above the Home button. You'll want a strong suction cup that can help you separate the display from the case. For the 6S and 6S Plus, place the suction cup in the lower left corner instead of directly above the Home button. Pull up firmly on the suction cup to separate the display from the case. You just want to create a very small gap between the display and the rest of the shell. Pulling too hard can damage the display, so pull with a firm, constant force. Hold the rest of the iPhone down with your other hand while you pull the suction cup. Use a plastic spudger to pry the case apart. A spudger is a tool with a flat end, much like a flathead screwdriver. Insert the spudger into the space created, and then gently work the display apart more. If you're opening the 6S or 6S Plus, insert the spudger into the notch that appears above the headphone jack. Twist the spudger to help pry the display up from the case. Move the spudger around the case (6S and 6S Plus). Sliding the spudger up the right and left sides of the case while gently twisting it will help pry up the screen. Swing the display up using the top as a hinge. Once you've pried the lower portion of the screen from the case, you can swing it up so that the screen is at a 90° angle from the case. You can prop it up on a book or box to keep it in place. Do not completely remove the screen, or you will damage the connectors, rendering the iPhone inoperable. Find the battery connector bracket. If you're looking at the battery, the connector will be on the left side, about a third of the way from the bottom. The connector is covered by a rectangular piece of metal with two screws. Remove the two screws holding the connector bracket. Use a small #000 Phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws holding the bracket into place. You'll be able to lift the bracket out, revealing the connector. Pop the connector off of the logic board. Use your spudger to pop the end of the connector off of the logic board. Be careful when doing so, as removing the entire socket will break the iPhone. Remove the screws from the display cable bracket. This bracket can be found in the upper-right corner of the open iPhone. Take the screws out and remove the bracket. Make sure to pay attention to which screws went in which holes. The iPhone 6, 6 Plus, and 6S Plus have five screws to remove. The iPhone 6S has four. Disconnect the camera cable. This is the large connector at the bottom of the area you revealed when you removed the bracket, with a cable leading to the display. Use the spudger or your fingernail to gently pry the connector from the socket. Be careful not to remove the socket as well. Remove the other connectors in the same area. There are three other connectors that need to be removed from the same area. One is directly next to the camera cable, and the other two are revealed when you disconnect the camera cable. Separate the screen from the rest of the case. Once the connectors are all removed, you can separate the screen from the rest of the iPhone. Use tweezers to peel the adhesive off the bottom of the battery. These adhesive strips help keep the battery in place. You'll find them along the bottom of the battery. Gently pull the adhesive out and away from the battery. The adhesive runs along the other side of the battery. Pull it slowly out until you've completely removed it. One strip will go up the right side of the battery, and another will go up the left. Heat the back of the iPhone with a hairdryer. Use a hairdryer and blow on the backing of the iPhone for about a minute. This will weaken the rest of the adhesive that is holding the battery in. Don't hold the hairdryer directly up against your phone or attempt this step on its hottest setting, as too much heat can cause your phone to sustain more damage. Use a plastic card (like a credit card) to pry the battery out. After removing the adhesive strips, you'll need to use a firm plastic card to pry the battery off of the remaining adhesive. Stick the card in between the left edge of the battery and the side of the case, then gently pry it out. Make sure that you don't bend the battery while you're prying it, as this can release hazardous chemicals. Replace your battery and reassemble your iPhone. Once your battery has been removed, you can replace it with a new one and put your iPhone back together. Make sure that all of your connectors are firmly reseated in the correct ports, and that you put the screws back in the same holes that they came out of. Perform a hard reset after reassembling by pressing and holding the Home and Power buttons until the Apple logo appears. For best battery performance, it's recommended that you drain the battery to below 10%, then charge it to 100%. Remove the two Pentalobe screws next to the Lightning port. This is the charging port at the bottom of the phone. You'll need a Pentalobe P2 screwdriver to remove these screws. Secure a suction cup to the front of the phone. Press the suction cup onto the screen, just a bit above the "Home" button. Apply enough pressure to form a tight seal. A tight seal is necessary to hold this front half up as you try to disconnect it from the bottom. Pry the rear case down. Lift the suction cup upward with one hand while pulling down on the rear case with your other hand. Once enough of a gap forms, slide a plastic opening tool in between the two halves and pry the rear case away more firmly. Disconnect the Home button before opening the iPhone completely (5s only). If you have a 5s, you'll notice a cable leading from your Home button to the bottom of the iPhone. If you separate the two halves too quickly, you'll break this cable, which will make your Home button useless. You'll need to disconnect this cable before proceeding: Pop the metal bracket holding the cable to your iPhone off with a spudger. Pry the cable out of the connector, making sure not to remove the socket as well. Open the iPhone so that the display is at a 90° angle to the base. Use the top as a hinge, and rest the screen against a book or a box at a 90° angle so that you can work on the insides without holding it. Don't let it open further, or you may damage the cables connecting it. Remove the two screws holding the battery connector bracket in place. This bracket can be found about an inch up from the bottom of the phone, directly to the right of the battery. Use your screwdriver to remove the screws surrounding the cable bracket. Then, use your fingers to lift the front panel assembly cable bracket from the logic board inside the rear case. Disconnect the battery from the logic board. Use a spudger or your fingernail to pry the connector out of the socket. This connector was protected by the bracket you just removed. Be careful not to pull the socket out with it. Disconnect the digitizer (display). To make things easier, you can remove the display so that you don't have to keep it propped up. This can help prevent damage to the cables, but is not strictly required to remove the battery: Remove the four screws (three for the iPhone 5) holding the connector bracket plate in the upper-right corner. Make sure to note which screws go in which holes, because it is vitally important that they return to the same ones. Disconnect each of the cables that were housed underneath the bracket. Make sure to not pry the sockets off of the logic board. The 5 has three cables, the 5C has two, and the 5S has three. Once all of the cables are removed, you can separate the display from the rest of the iPhone. Peel the adhesive back from the bottom edge of the battery. You'll see a black tap stuck to the bottom of the battery. Peel this back to reveal two strips connected by the black tab. Cut the black tab to separate the adhesive strips. You'll see that the two strips have space in between them. use scissors to cut the black tab in half, making two different strips. Pull each strip out from the bottom of the battery. Grip and pull one of the strips out and then to the side. Pull at a slight angle out from behind the battery. Continue pulling while running up the side of the battery, until the entire strip is free. Repeat with the other strip on the other side. Heat the back of the iPhone if the battery does not come out. There's a good chance that the battery is still stuck to adhesive residue. Heat the back of the iPhone with a hairdryer for about 60 seconds. Gently pry the battery out with a credit card. Use a credit card, or similar strong plastic card, to pry the battery out after heating it. Make sure to not bend the battery itself when prying it out. Replace your battery and reassemble the iPhone. Once your battery has been removed, you can replace it with a new one and reassemble all of the pieces. Make sure that all of your connectors are securely fastened, and that all of the screws went back in their original holes. After reassembly, perform a hard reset by pressing and holding the Power and Home buttons until the Apple logo appears. New batteries should be drained to below 10% and then charged to 100% before using them for the first time for maximum efficiency. Remove the screws at the bottom of the iPhone. You can find them on either side of the charging port. The iPhone 4S uses Pentalobe screws, which require a Pentalobe P2 screwdriver. The iPhone 4 may have Pentalobe screws, or it may have #000 Phillips screws. Slide the back plate up and off. Grasp the iPhone in both hands, placing your thumbs on the back plate and your fingers on the screen. Slide the plate upwards to separate it You will need to apply a good deal of pressure to slide the case up. To minimize the risk of damaging your screen, apply most of the pressure using your thumbs, and focus the pressure toward the bottom or top of the back plate rather than at the center. The panel will move up about 2 mm. Once the case slides up, you can open it to the side and lift it off the front assembly completely. If you cannot lift the case off with your fingers, you can use a small suction cup to lift it off. Remove the screws from the battery bracket. Use a #000 Phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws around the battery bracket. This bracket can be found to the left of the battery, at the bottom. These screws hold the battery connector to the logic board. Note that the top screw is shorter than the bottom. On some iPhone 4 models, there's only one screw you'll need to remove. Pry up the battery connector. Slide a plastic opening tool beneath the metal connector next to the battery. Lift it up to release it from the logic board. You should also consider removing the small grounding clip beneath the battery connector before removing the connector itself. You can do this using the same plastic opening tool. If you do not do this, you risk sending the clip flying as you remove the connector. Work carefully to avoid prying up the socket by accident. You only want to remove the connector. Lift the battery out. Pull the plastic tab from behind the battery to lift it out. You may need to use a stiff credit card to help pry it from the adhesive. You will need to work carefully. There is an adhesive holding the battery to the rear case, so you will need to use considerable yet directed force to lift it out. Avoid moving too close toward the top of the iPhone, since this is where your volume button cables are located. Replace your battery and reassemble the iPhone. You can put your new battery in and then reassemble the iPhone. Make sure that all of the connectors have been reattached, and that the screws have gone back in their original holes. After reassembling, perform a hard reset by pressing and holding the Power and Home buttons until the Apple Logo appears. New batteries should be discharged to below 10% and then charged to 100% before being used for the first time. Remove the two bottom screws. Use a Phillips #00 screwdriver to remove the 3.7 mm screws at the bottom of the phone. Set them aside in a safe spot. The two screws are located on either side of the dock connector. Lift open the front panel. Place a sturdy suction cup on the screen, just above the "Home" button. Once it has a secure hold, lift it straight up with one hand while holding the bottom of your iPhone with the other. The top panel should come right off. You will need to use considerable force to lift the front panel off using the suction cup. There is a rubber gasket between the front bezel and back assembly, so the two halves are fit together fairly tight. Rock the suction cup back and forth as you lift to help loosen it. If necessary, you can also use a plastic opening tool to pry the bottom away from the top as you lift the top off. Do not remove the front case completely since it is still connected to the bottom by several cables. Instead, lift it up and rotate it so that it rests at a 45 degree angle from the bottom of the phone. Disconnect the ribbon cables. While holding the front assembly open with one hand, use your other hand to disconnect the black ribbon cables labeled "1," "2," and "3" with a plastic opening tool. Insert the tool from the left. If you pull it up from the right, you could damage the ribbon connector. Lift cables 1 and 2 up to remove the connectors. Cable 3 will rotate up about 90 degrees. Slid the ribbon cables of the the connectors. This should allow you to remove the entire front assembly from the back case. Remove the SIM tray. Insert a SIM eject tool into the hole next to the headphone jack in your phone. Press down until the SIM card tray pops out, and continue sliding it out with your fingers to remove it. If you do not have a SIM eject tool, you could also use a paper clip. Note that you could also remove this tray at the beginning of the process if you find that to be easier or more comfortable for you. Disconnect ribbon cable 4, 5 and 6. Slide your plastic opening tool under each connector to pop them up and open. If you have an iPhone 3GS, there will also be a ribbon cable labeled "7" that you need to disconnect. Take this time to remove the "Do not remove" sticker to reveal one of the screws near the bottom of the case. Remove the screws surrounding the phone and battery. There will be eight screws: five 2.3 mm screws, two 2.3 mm screws, and one 2.9 mm screws. The first five 2.3 mm screws have partial threads and secure the logic board to the rear case. The second two 2.3 mm screws have fill threads and secure the logic board to the camera. The 2.9 mm screw was below the "Do not remove" sticker. Remove the camera. Slide the flat tip of the plastic opening tool beneath the camera. Apply slight yet even pressure to pop it up and out. Note that you can only partially remove the camera. The bottom will still be connected to the logic board. Pry up the bottom end of the logic board. Slid the tip of the plastic opening tool beneath the logic board at the dock connector side. Lift the logic board up carefully and slide it out toward the dock connector end of the phone, removing it completely. There is a small gold tab on the logic board. It's delicate and can break easily, so you need to be extra careful. Lift the battery out. Slide the plastic opening tool beneath the battery. Lift the battery up to remove it. There is an adhesive that holds the battery to the rear case. As a result, you could end up bending the battery or otherwise damaging it if you attempt to remove it without being careful. You could use the plastic pull tab to remove the battery, but doing so could increase the risk of bending the battery. If necessary, try gently heating the back of the case with the lowest setting of a hair dryer. This can weaken the adhesive bond, making it easier to remove the battery. This step completes the process.	Make sure the iPhone is turned off. Remove the Pentalobe screws from each side of the Lightning port. Place a gentle heating pad on the bottom of the iPhone 7. Place a suction cup on the front of the iPhone. Pull up on the suction cup to lift the screen. Insert your spudger into the space in the lower-left corner of the iPhone. Slide the spudger up the left side, then repeat on the right side. Lift the screen up to form a ten-degree angle with the phone's case. Slide a thin card or guitar pick along the top of the iPhone. Pull the screen down toward the bottom of the phone. Open the display to the right. Remove the four tri-point screws from the lower display bracket. Remove the display bracket and set it aside. Use the spudger to lift up the perpendicular plastic strip. Use the spudger to lift up the parallel plastic strip and the grey strip beneath it. Unscrew the bracket over the second display ribbon. Remove the bracket. Use the spudger to pry up the connector. Set the iPhone's display assembly aside. Remove the two Phillips (+) screws from the barometric vent. Remove the barometric vent. Pry up the Taptic Engine's connector with your spudger. Remove the three Phillips screws from the Taptic Engine. Lift gently the Taptic Engine out of the case. Peel back the three adhesive strips from the bottom of the battery. Pull one of the adhesive strips toward you. Pull the other two strips out. Remove your iPhone's battery. Make sure the iPhone is turned off. Remove the two Pentalobe screws on each side of the Lightning port. Place a suction cup on the front of the iPhone right above the Home button. Pull up firmly on the suction cup to separate the display from the case. Use a plastic spudger to pry the case apart. Move the spudger around the case (6S and 6S Plus). Swing the display up using the top as a hinge. Find the battery connector bracket. Remove the two screws holding the connector bracket. Pop the connector off of the logic board. Remove the screws from the display cable bracket. Disconnect the camera cable. Remove the other connectors in the same area. Separate the screen from the rest of the case. Use tweezers to peel the adhesive off the bottom of the battery. Gently pull the adhesive out and away from the battery. Heat the back of the iPhone with a hairdryer. Use a plastic card (like a credit card) to pry the battery out. Replace your battery and reassemble your iPhone. Remove the two Pentalobe screws next to the Lightning port. Secure a suction cup to the front of the phone. Pry the rear case down. Disconnect the Home button before opening the iPhone completely (5s only). Open the iPhone so that the display is at a 90° angle to the base. Remove the two screws holding the battery connector bracket in place. Disconnect the battery from the logic board. Disconnect the digitizer (display). Peel the adhesive back from the bottom edge of the battery. Cut the black tab to separate the adhesive strips. Pull each strip out from the bottom of the battery. Heat the back of the iPhone if the battery does not come out. Gently pry the battery out with a credit card. Replace your battery and reassemble the iPhone. Remove the screws at the bottom of the iPhone. Slide the back plate up and off. Remove the screws from the battery bracket. Pry up the battery connector. Lift the battery out. Replace your battery and reassemble the iPhone. Remove the two bottom screws. Lift open the front panel. Disconnect the ribbon cables. Remove the SIM tray. Disconnect ribbon cable 4, 5 and 6. Remove the screws surrounding the phone and battery. Remove the camera. Pry up the bottom end of the logic board. Lift the battery out.
https://www.wikihow.com/Diagnose-Hamster-Respiratory-Illnesses	How to Diagnose Hamster Respiratory Illnesses	If you think your hamster has a respiratory illness, check its eyes and nose for a thick, mucus-like discharge or redness. A sick hamster will also have difficulty breathing, so listen close for wheezing or even rattling or crackling noises when it breathes. Keep an eye on your hamster during the day and watch for any sneezing, shaking, or if it is avoiding its food. Overall, you might notice your hamster will be less active and maybe even more nippy than usual when it has a respiratory illness. Respiratory illnesses can make hamsters very sick, very quickly, so take your hamster to the vet if you notice any symptoms.	Check your hamster’s eyes and nose. Respiratory illnesses can cause a variety of symptoms in hamsters. For example, a hamster with respiratory problems may have a thick, mucus-like discharge coming from their eyes and nose. The discharge is opaque or yellow. If your hamster has a respiratory illness, its eyes and nose may also look red. Watch and listen to your hamster breathe. Respiratory illnesses make breathing difficult for hamsters. Your hamster may wheeze when it breathes, causing its chest to visibly widen and contract with each breath. You may be able to hear the wheezing, along with possible rattling or crackling noises, when your hamster breathes. Detect sneezing. If your hamster has a respiratory illness, it may start sneezing. When your hamster sneezes, you may see discharge come out of its nose. Look at your hamster’s hair coat. A healthy hamster has a shiny hair coat. A hamster with a respiratory illness, though, will have a dull hair coat. If your hamster is sick, its hair coat will lose its natural, healthy sheen. Observe your hamster’s body condition. In general, hamsters with respiratory illnesses don't look so good. The sickness will cause your hamster to eat less, leading to weight loss. If your hamster has a respiratory illness, it will look thinner than usual. Look for shaking and shivering. Hamsters with respiratory illnesses can start to shake and shiver. This may be because they're feeling cold. Determine if your hamster is eating less. A respiratory illness can make your hamster feel so sick that it doesn't want to eat much anymore. If you're concerned that your hamster has lost its appetite, measure the amount of food you feed it each day. At the end of the day, measure the amount of food left over in the cage. Remember that hamsters tend to hoard food in their cages. If your hamster is showing other signs of respiratory illness, though, you may see leftover food in the cage because your hamster feels sick and doesn't want to eat—not because it's hoarding the food. Take note of decreased activity. Healthy hamsters are very playful and active. If your hamster is sick, though, it won't feel playful. Instead, it may want to stay curled up in its bedding and not move around very much. Decreased activity may be the first sign of respiratory illness that you see. If your hamster looks sick and stays in its bedding, do not try to force it out to play. Watch for grumpiness. Sick hamsters can become quite grumpy. For example, if you try to handle your hamster when it is sick, it may bite you. If your hamster seems more nippy than usual, leave it alone in its cage. Take your hamster to your vet. Respiratory illnesses can make hamsters very sick, very quickly. Because hamsters are so small, invading bacteria or viruses can quickly overwhelm a hamster's immune system. What starts as a little cold can turn into a serious case of pneumonia. When you recognize the signs of respiratory illness in your hamster, call your vet right away to make an appointment. Have your vet examine your hamster. When you bring your hamster to your vet, they will observe your hamster in its cage first. Then, they will examine your hamster from head to toe and listen to its heart and lungs. If your hamster is having trouble breathing, your vet will give it extra oxygen before doing the physical exam. Answer your vet’s questions. During the physical exam, your vet will ask you questions about your hamster's illness. For example, they will ask you what symptoms you observed and when you first noticed them. Also, because respiratory illness can be transmitted from one hamster to the other, and from humans to hamsters, your vet will ask if you or the hamster's cage mates are sick. Poor housing conditions, such as drafts, can make a hamster sick. Your vet may inquire about your hamster's living environment. Allow your vet to identify the ‘culprit’ organism. Respiratory illnesses in hamsters are caused by bacteria ( Pasturella, Streptococcus ) and viruses (flu virus). To treat your hamster most effectively, your vet will need to know which specific organism is causing the illness. To do this, your vet will take a sample of fluid from your hamster and analyze it. Have your vet take x-rays of your hamster. If your vet thinks your hamster has pneumonia, they may want to take x-rays of your hamster's chest. Chest x-rays would help your vet determine the severity of the pneumonia. X-rays of your hamster's skull may be helpful, too, to look at the nasal passages.	Check your hamster’s eyes and nose. Watch and listen to your hamster breathe. Detect sneezing. Look at your hamster’s hair coat. Observe your hamster’s body condition. Look for shaking and shivering. Determine if your hamster is eating less. Take note of decreased activity. Watch for grumpiness. Take your hamster to your vet. Have your vet examine your hamster. Answer your vet’s questions. Allow your vet to identify the ‘culprit’ organism. Have your vet take x-rays of your hamster.
https://www.wikihow.com/Assemble-a-Skateboard	How to Assemble a Skateboard	To assemble a skateboard, start by placing the adhesive grip tape over the top of the deck and smoothing it out with the palms of your hands. Then, trim the excess tape from the edges of the board with a razor or box cutter and sand down the edges so they don't peel up. Next, use a screw driver to attach the trucks to the bottom of the board, making sure the screws don't stick out from the top of the deck. Once the trucks are attached, slide the bearings and wheels onto the axles and tighten a nut onto each one to keep them secure.	Keep all your parts organized. You will have a lot of small hardware that comes in your skateboard kit. It's best to keep everything organized so you don't lose any parts or hardware. You may want to keep your parts in the box or original packaging until each one is needed. Place your deck down on a flat surface. To best apply the grip tape to your deck you want to have it laying flat on an open surface. This will allow you evenly lay the grip tape over your deck. You want the nose and tail ends of your board to be pointing up with the graphic on the bottom of the deck facing your flat surface. Place your grip tape over the deck. Your grip tape will be a rectangular sheet that covers a larger area than your board. This allows you a little wiggle room if you don't place the tape exactly square. Peel the back paper off from the back of your grip tape, like a sticker. Lay the grip over the top of the deck as evenly as possible. Be careful to touch as little of the adhesive side of grip tape as possible. Pinch the ends of tape between your forefinger and thumb. Pulling the ends of the tape taut, find the edges of your deck with your middle finger and let the grip fall flat onto the deck. If you have a piece of grip tape that has a cutout or graphic that is supposed to be on one end of your board, you can identify the nose and tail ends. The tail typically has a steeper incline whereas the nose has a more narrow curve. Smooth out the grip tape with the palms of your hands. Press down hard to remove any air bubbles. Start at the center of your deck and gradually move outward toward the nose and tail. Do your best to make sure there are no air bubbles, as these will dramatically reduce the amount of time the grip tape remains adhesive on the board. Air bubbles also allow small rocks to get between your grip and the deck which can be uncomfortable while riding. Take a screwdriver and rub it along the edge of the board to make an outline. You will see a white guideline for cutting. Trim away the excess grip tape. Cut around the edge with a sharp blade, preferably a razor or box cutter. It's easiest to start in the center of your deck rather than on one of the edges. Make an incision which is perpendicular to your deck. This will make it easier to start cutting and get a consistent cut around your deck. Angle your razor over the top of your deck to help the process. Pull the outer portion of your tape to make the cutting easier. Sand down the edges of the grip tape. Take a portion of the tape that was cut away and, like with sandpaper, rub the edges of your grip tape. By sanding the edges you are smoothing out any rough or lifted portions that could peel up. Attach your trucks to your deck. Take a screwdriver or Allen wrench and poke holes through the grip tape. Poke your holes downward so that the grip tape doesn't crack and your hardware can screw in over the grip. Then place your screws through the holes in the deck. Once your screws are in place, attach your trucks onto your board. Attach one truck at a time. Some hardware kits come with multiple colored screws. These different colored screws help you to differentiate the nose from the tail when riding. You can place these screws at either end. Just remember which end you place the screws. Use your fingers or the palm of one hand to hold the hardware in place while you attach the trucks. The baseplate is the flat square portion of your truck that connects to your deck. The hanger, the “T” shaped part of your trucks will be facing down. Screw the nuts on over the trucks using your skate tool or socket wrench. You can also use a screwdriver to tighten the heads of the screws. Make sure that the kingpins on both trucks, the portion of your trucks with the large nut and rubber bushings, are facing each other. Otherwise, your board won't ride properly. Insert your bearings into your wheels. If you don't have a bearing press, you can insert your bearings using your trucks. Remove the nut and washer from the axle of your truck so you can slide the bearing and wheel on. Most bearings have a flat side and a ridged side. Slide the bearing down onto the axle so the flat side is facing up. Press your wheel down over the bearing until you feel the bearing slide into the center of your wheel. Take the wheel off the axle, slide another bearing down and repeat with the other side of the wheel. Each wheel has two bearings. Do this for all four wheels. You may hear a popping sound when you press the wheel onto the bearing. This sound indicates that the bearing is fully in. Attach your wheels. Some wheels have an outside and inside edge. If this is the case, the outside will be the side with the graphic. Some wheels, however, will have graphics on both sides and it doesn't matter which way the wheel goes on the truck. Slide the wheel down onto the axle and then place the washer and nut over the wheel. With your skate tool or wrench, tighten the nut as far as it will go. By tightening the nut all the way you will ensure that your bearings are fully in place. Then loosen the nut enough so that your wheel can spin freely. Loosen the nut just a few turns to keep it secure while giving your wheel enough space to move. Grab your wheel and tug on it. It should move back and forth on the axle slightly. Make sure that your wheel is also level. If it lays at an angle, your bearings are not fully in. Make sure that your grip tape and screws are even. The heads of your screws should be flush with your grip tape. If your screw heads are sticking out, then it will make it harder to perform tricks and maneuver. If your screws aren't flush, screw each one further down. Don't go too far so as to risk cracking the wood of the deck. Test your trucks. Make sure that your trucks are firmly secured to your deck. The baseplate portion of your trucks which is attached to the deck shouldn't move at all. If your trucks are loose then you will have a much harder time riding your board, and it could be dangerous if you aren't an experienced skater. If your trucks are too tight, you'll have a hard time turning your board. Stand on your board and test it. Rock back and forth and skate around. Test the tightness of your trucks and make sure that your wheels can spin freely. If the board feels wobbly, tighten the nut on the kingpin clockwise about half a turn for each truck. If your trucks are too tight, you may have trouble turning or carving. Turn the nut of your kingpin counterclockwise. Make sure that you rotate the nuts of each truck evenly. If you can't coast for very long or feel resistance when pushing, loosen your wheels some more.	Keep all your parts organized. Place your deck down on a flat surface. Place your grip tape over the deck. Smooth out the grip tape with the palms of your hands. Trim away the excess grip tape. Sand down the edges of the grip tape. Attach your trucks to your deck. Insert your bearings into your wheels. Attach your wheels. Make sure that your grip tape and screws are even. Test your trucks. Stand on your board and test it.
https://www.wikihow.com/Recognize-and-Treat-Hand,-Foot,-and-Mouth-Disease	How to Recognize and Treat Hand, Foot, and Mouth Disease	To recognize hand, foot, and mouth disease in your child, look for mouth sores and skin rashes on their hands and feet. You should also keep an eye out for fever, loss of appetite, a sore throat, or headaches and a general tired and unwell feeling, which are all common symptoms of the disease. In most cases, the disease is not serious and will go away on its own with home care. However, to speed up recovery, keep your child well hydrated, and consider giving them mouthwash or oral spray to help soothe their sore throat.	Look out for fever and reduced appetite. HFMD usually affects children younger than 5 years old and the infection typically begins with a mild-to-moderate fever and loss of appetite. The fevers in children with HFMD usually reach 101°F (38.3°C) or 102°F (38.9°C), which is the body's way of trying to stop the virus from multiplying and spreading. In addition to fever, look for loss of appetite at meal times, which is typical of most viral infections. The time between viral contact and the start of symptoms (known as the incubation period) is typically between three to seven days. Young, pre-school kids are most often affected, although teens and adults do come down with HFMD occasionally. The most common time of year for HFMD outbreaks is in the summer and early autumn. Watch for sore throat and painful mouth sores. Although a fever is often the first sign of HFMD, after about one to two days of higher temperatures painful sores usually develop in the throat (causing a moderate-to-severe sore throat) and elsewhere in the mouth. The red sores are fairly small (2 or 3 mm in diameter) and quickly develop into blisters (vesicles), then they pop and become ulcers (the most painful stage). In addition to the throat, the most common areas for HFMD sores to appear are the tongue, gums and inner cheeks. Blisters/ulcers from HFMD can be difficult to distinguish from canker and herpes sores. The main differences are canker sores rarely affect the throat and gums, whereas herpes sores almost always appear on the outer lips. The discomfort created by the throat and mouth sores make it painful to eat, which may further reduce appetite. Expect to see a rash on the hands and feet. If the throat and mouth sores are indicative of HFMD (and not cankers, herpes or some other viral infection), then a rash will invariably develop on the hands and feet within an additional one to two days. The small red blisters characteristically appear on the palms of both hands and the soles of both feet. Less commonly, the blisters can also appear on the knees, buttocks, genitals and elbows. In addition to the small blisters, HFMD causes the skin on the hands and feet to appear like a rash, although it's not usually itchy — unlike chicken pox, which is another type of infection that HFMD often mimics. Fingernail and toenail loss can occur with HFMD, particularly in children, within about two to four weeks of coming down with the condition. Soaking the affected feet in 3 US quarts (2,800 mL) of warm water mixed with 2-3 tablespoons (48-72 g) of Epsom salts can help relieve some of the pain. Don't soak the feet for more than 15 minutes, though. Prepare for malaise and headaches too. Other symptoms commonly associated with HFMD (and most other viral and bacterial infections) are dull/achy headaches and malaise — a general unwell and tired feeling. These symptoms and the ones mentioned above usually last for between five to seven days. In the vast majority of cases the infection is self-limiting and doesn't require medical attention. With malaise, children may not want to get out of bed in the morning, or play during the afternoon or stay up much past dinner time. Headaches are difficult to detect in young children who can't communicate well, so look for reduced attention span, unexplained crying, head holding (with their hands) and avoidance of loud sounds and/or well-lit areas of the house. Nausea/vomiting is not common with HFMD (and many other viruses that affect the throat and mouth), but it is characteristic of bacterial infections and food poisoning. Not everyone gets all of these symptoms (especially adults who have more mature immune systems to fight the infection), but non-symptomatic people can still pass the virus on to others. Be patient and remain hydrated. HFMD is not serious in most cases, so letting it run its course (about a week) is the best way of gaining natural immunity and preventing future infections. As such, be patient and keep well hydrated, which is good advice for any viral infection, but particularly important for HFMD because of the pain associated with swallowing. Fevers and nights sweats cause your body to lose more water than normal, so start with drinking eight 8-ounce glasses per day to rehydrate yourself and keep your mucous membranes of your mouth/throat moist. Consider buying some mouthwash, oral spray or lozenges from the pharmacy that contain compounds that numb or dull a sore throat. They can be effective to reduce pain and make it easier to consume liquids and soups. You may also want to encourage hydration by offering something cold that might soothe the throat, like a sugar-free popsicle. Common signs of dehydration include: dry skin and mucous membranes, sunken-looking eyes, reduced urination, dark-colored urine, irritability, confusion and weight loss. Consult your doctor about medications. There's no specific treatment for HFMD in terms of medication, in part because the infection is not serious and usually clears up on its own within a week to 10 days; however, over-the-counter medications such as acetaminophen (Tylenol) can help reduce a fever, and ibuprofen (Advil, Motrin) can reduce inflammation and pain associated with blisters and ulcers. Remember that aspirin is never a good idea for young children and ibuprofen may not be either, so ask your doctor. A mild-to-moderate fever is beneficial to fight viral infections as noted above, but temperatures of 103°F (39.4 °C) or greater in children should likely be managed with medication. Drugs called antivirals are recommended for infections within people who have a high risk of complications due to weak immune systems. Antivirals kill viruses or prevent them from reproducing in the body. In rare cases, antivirals may be prescribed for HFMD, such as acyclovir (Zovirax), valacyclovir (Valtrex) or famciclovir. Note that valacyclovir and famciclovir medications are only approved for use in adults, not kids. Consider taking colloidal silver. Colloidal silver (also called atomic or ionic silver) is a liquid preparation containing small clusters of electrically charged silver particles. The medical literature reveals that colloidal silver has powerful antiviral properties and can kill a wide-variety of viruses, although there is no quality research demonstrating its effect on HFMD as of yet. Even still, considering its relative safety, lack of side effects and affordability, it might be worth a shot for treating HFMD. The effectiveness of colloidal silver against viruses depends on size (particles should be less than 10 nm in diameter) and purity (no salts or protein in the solution). Colloidal silver can be made at home with some specific supplies, or purchased from most health food and supplement stores. Try gargling with colloidal silver to help relieve throat and mouth sores, and spray some on your hands and feet to prevent outbreaks of blisters. Silver solutions are usually considered non-toxic even in high concentrations, but protein-based solutions made by some pharmaceutical companies can increase the risk of argyria — skin discoloration due to silver compounds getting trapped there. Avoid contact with people who show signs or symptoms. HFMD is mild-to-moderately infectious and is spread by contact (usually via the mouth) with an infected person's: nasal secretions, throat mucous, saliva (including droplets sprayed from coughing and sneezing), fluid from blisters and feces (poop). Therefore, if you see anyone (especially young children) looking ill and complaining or exhibiting the above mentioned symptoms, avoid them until they are recovered. You may have to keep your child out of preschool or elementary school for a week to either prevent getting HFMD or spreading it to others. Teach your child to notify adults if they feel ill or see symptoms such as red spots or rashes on the skin of other children. Practice good hygiene. Because HFMD is contagious and transmitted through touch and body fluids, keep your hands (or those of your children) disinfected. Always wash hands with soap and water, especially after using the toilet and changing diapers. Try not to touch your mouth with your hands, especially after you've touched someone else. Avoid sharing eating utensils or cups/glasses with people with HFMD or other viral infections. Regularly disinfecting countertops, tables, chairs, toys and other surfaces which are commonly touched is a good preventative approach. Disinfect your hands (and your children's hands) multiple times per day with regular soap, and don't go overboard on the hand sanitizer because it can promote the growth of "super bugs" that are resistant to medications. Natural disinfectants appropriate for household use include white vinegar, lemon juice, salt water, diluted bleach and hydrogen peroxide. Maintain a strong immune system. With any type of infection, true prevention depends on the strong and healthy functioning of your immune system. Your immune system is comprised of specialized cells that search and destroy potential pathogens such as viruses, but when the system is weak, disease-causing microorganisms grow and spread virtually unchecked. As such, it's not surprising that those most at risk for infections, including HFMD, are young children and the immunocompromised. Therefore, focus on boosting your immune system in order to stay healthy and be able to fight off HFMD successfully. Getting more sleep (and better quality sleeps), eating more fresh fruit and veggies, cutting down on refined sugars (soda pop, candy), reducing your alcohol intake, quitting smoking, practicing good hygiene and exercising regularly are all proven ways to keep your immune system strong. Dietary supplements that can boost immunity include: vitamin C, vitamin D, zinc, echinacea and olive leaf extract. Vitamin C and olive leaf extract also have antiviral properties, which may also help to prevent or fight off HFMD.	Look out for fever and reduced appetite. Watch for sore throat and painful mouth sores. Expect to see a rash on the hands and feet. Prepare for malaise and headaches too. Be patient and remain hydrated. Consult your doctor about medications. Consider taking colloidal silver. Avoid contact with people who show signs or symptoms. Practice good hygiene. Maintain a strong immune system.
https://www.wikihow.com/Entertain-a-Cockatiel	How to Entertain a Cockatiel	To entertain your cockatiel, respond to it when it talks to you since cockatiels love a good conversation! You can also play games like fetch or hide-and-seek in a bird-safe room. Although it may take some time for your cockatiel to catch on to these games, eventually, with some praise and treats, they'll get the hang of it. When your cockatiel's alone at home, give it plenty of toys to chew on like untreated wood, rope toys, bells, or legos. Besides toys, try placing a mirror in your bird's cage, since cockatiels are flock birds and it will be in interested in seeing another bird!	Give your cockatiel toys to shred and chew on. Cockatiels love to shred and chew on a variety of items. It stimulates their brains and keeps their beaks healthy. Providing them with a bunch of different things to chew on is important, as they can get bored with just one chewing or shredding toy. Things that cockatiels typically like to chew on include: Commercial shredding toys Untreated wood, such as apple, ash, almond, apricot, peach, maple, or elm Paper Thin cardboard, such as paper towel rolls or tissue boxes Feather toys Rope toys Bells (which are extra entertaining to birds because they are both shiny and noisy!) Plastic buttons sewn onto a strip of calico or burlap Legos arranged in different shapes Put a swing in your bird's cage. Cockatiels tend to like sitting on swings once in a while. Most swings made for birds are round hoops that allow the bird to sit upright inside of them. They move similarly to branches in the wild, so this may be why cockatiels like to sit on them. Pick a swing for your bird's cage that is covered in something that is easy for them to perch on. For example, look for a swing that is wrapped in natural cotton rope. Provide a mirror for your bird. Some cockatiels can be entertained by looking at themselves in a mirror. Putting a small mirror in their cage can provide hours of entertainment. Your bird may look in the mirror and think that there is another bird there for it to interact with or even a potential mate. Since cockatiels are flock animals, they will likely be interested in interacting with the bird they see reflected in the mirror. Give the cockatiel somewhere to bathe. Some cockatiels like to take a bath in a shallow dish of lukewarm water. Place the dish at the bottom of the bird's cage and only leave it in place for a few hours. Providing your bird with the water and dish once a week or so will allow it to have some focused time cleaning and preening itself. Not all cockatiels enjoy this activity. Some just want to be sprayed by you with a light mist of warm water from a spray bottle. Spraying them will still give them much needed moisture and cleaning time. Rotate your cockatiel's toys. A cockatiel will get bored with toys that are always the same and always in the same spot. Switch out toys that the bird seems disinterested in and move toys it loves into different areas of its cage. Giving the bird some variety will help to assure that it continues to be entertained by its toys. When you rotate out old toys, put new toys in, and move the bird's existing toys around in its cage, take that opportunity to thoroughly clean any toys that are going in its cage. Having clean toys will help to assure that your bird remains healthy. Consider getting another cockatiel. A really good way to keep your cockatiel entertained is to get another one for it to interact with. The birds will be able to talk to each other and generally keep each other company. You can keep both birds in separate cages that are placed next to each other. This will eliminate the chance of overcrowding or fighting. Provide new treats. In order to entertain your cockatiel, you can provide it with an array of exciting tastes and textures for it to explore. Try giving your bird a new type of food every week. A new fruit or vegetable will bring a bit of excitement into your cockatiel's day. Remember, there are certain foods that you not should feed a cockatiel. Avoid foods that are known to be toxic to birds, such as avocados, tomatoes, and the pits of stone fruit. Talk to your cockatiel. A cockatiel can be entertained quite a bit by having a conversation with you. Talk to it daily in a sweet and calm voice. They can also be good mimics and often like to respond to a person who whistles or sings to them. If your cockatiel begins talking, whistling, or singing, you should respond. It is likely trying to lure you into interacting with it. Take your cockatiel out of its cage regularly. It is important to physically interact with your cockatiel on a regular basis. This will begin by taking it out of its cage. Many birds will willingly come out of their cage if you stick your finger into the cage and allow them to perch on it. Other birds, however, will need to be tamed and trained to do this. To judge whether your cockatiel wants to come out of its cage, you should try to read its gestures. Sometimes your bird will be interested in interacting with you and other times it will want to be left alone. Play games with your cockatiel. Some cockatiels enjoy playing interactive games. Try tossing a toy for your cockatiel to fetch, or playing hide-and-seek in a bird-safe room. If your cockatiel is trusting and comfortable with you, you can also play “tag” by playfully pretending you are going to touch its tail, allowing the bird to run away, and then repeating the process after it has had a moment to rest. It may take some time for your cockatiel to catch on to these games. Try to build associations between the games and particular phrases (e.g., “Fetch!” or “Come find me!”). Offer treats and praise when your bird participates in the game. Train your cockatiel. You can really stimulate your bird's brain and give it lots of entertainment by training it to respond to your commands. This could simply be training it to leave its cage on command, which is usually done with a step up method that trains the bird to step onto your hand. It could also be training to search out treats around a room when you have the bird out of its cage. If your bird has a hard time stepping directly onto your hand, you can train it to step onto a stick instead. Allow your cockatiel to use its wings. Even if your bird's wings are clipped, it should still be able to complete short flights if it is healthy. When you have it out of its cage, let it fly around the room a little bit. This will give it some much needed exercise and will allow it to keep its wing strength up. Before you let your cockatiel fly, make sure all doors and windows are closed. Also make sure that there are no other pets in the room that could harm it, such as a cat or dog.	Give your cockatiel toys to shred and chew on. Put a swing in your bird's cage. Provide a mirror for your bird. Give the cockatiel somewhere to bathe. Rotate your cockatiel's toys. Consider getting another cockatiel. Provide new treats. Talk to your cockatiel. Take your cockatiel out of its cage regularly. Play games with your cockatiel. Train your cockatiel. Allow your cockatiel to use its wings.
https://www.wikihow.com/Grow-African-Violets	How to Grow African Violets	To grow African violets, start them from seed or plant a leaf from a mature African violet. When you plant your violets, use a well-draining soil that's slightly acidic and choose small pots. Then, put your plants in a warm, humid spot that gets lots of indirect sunlight. You'll need to water your violets whenever the soil they're planted in is dry, and it's also a good idea to feed them a balanced fertilizer so they continue to flower every year. Once a year, repot your African violets so their roots have more room to grow.	Grow a new plant in water from a leaf. The most common way to grow new African violets is to propagate them from the leaves of existing plants. Once you do this, you can sprout the cutting in water. To propagate a new African violet in water, you'll need a sterilized cutting tool, a thin-necked bottle (such as a sterilized beer bottle), and a plastic bag or wrap. Select a large and healthy leaf from a healthy African violet. Include 2 inches (5 cm) of stem and cut the leaf from the plant on a 45-degree angle. The cut side of the angle should be on the top of the leaf. Fill the bottle with lukewarm water. Place the stem of the leaf into the neck of the bottle, so that the stem is in water and the leaf is resting above the rim. Cover the leaf and top of the bottle loosely with plastic to help keep in the humidity. Place the leaf somewhere warm that gets lots of filtered light. Add more water as necessary to keep the stem submerged. Over the next several weeks, the cutting will begin to sprout baby African violets. Plant a leaf right in the soil. Alternatively, you can also plant that same cutting directly into soil rather than sprouting it in water. To do this you'll need your healthy leaf and 2 inches (5 cm) of stem cut from a healthy violet, a small pot of clear plastic, potting soil, and a plastic cover or wrap. Fill the pot with loose potting soil. Press the cut stem a half-inch (1.3 cm) into the soil. Cover the top of the pot with a clear plastic cover or wrap. Place the cutting somewhere warm where it will get lots of filtered sun. You probably won't need to water as long as the plastic keeps in the moisture. Grow them from seeds. One way to grow African violets is to start them from seed, though this is less common than propagating the plants from cuttings. To grow African violets from seeds, you'll need seed starters, a plastic cover or wrap, a spray bottle, growing lights, and a medium suitable for African violets, such as milled coconut and perlite or pasteurized peat moss. Water the medium and allow it to dry out so it's moist. Fill the seed starters with medium. Spray the top of the medium with water. Sprinkle a few seeds into the top of each starter cell. Cover the top of the cells with plastic. Place the seed starters 10 inches (25 cm) below the grow lights. Provide the seeds with 12 to 14 hours of light per day. If the environment stays humid thanks to the plastic wrap, you won't need to water. Determine the right time to transplant. Seedlings should reach a certain size before they're transplanted, but plants sprouted from cuttings will be ready to transplant after a certain amount of time. For seedlings, wait until the seedlings have leaves that reach 2 inches (5 cm) in width. For cuttings, the babies should be ready in about eight to 10 weeks, once new leaves are roughly the size of a dime. Choose the right soil. African violets grow best in a slightly acidic medium that has a pH between 6.4 and 6.9. Because the medium must be loose, well-draining, and allow for free root development, African violets are not often grown in soil. Most garden and home stores will sell a medium specifically designed for African violets. You can also make your own African violet mix by combining equal parts perlite, vermiculite, and peat moss. Select the right pot. Because African violets are grown indoors, choosing the right pot is like choosing the right home for your plants. These plants grow best in pots that are sized for their root systems. Don't put your plant in a pot that's too large, otherwise it may not bloom. A good rule of thumb is to put your violet in a pot that's one-third the size of the plant itself, because this will match the size of the root system. For the current size of your seedlings or babies, a 2-inch (5-cm) pot will probably be sufficient. You can use either plastic or terracotta pots for your violets. Plastic pots require less watering, but terracotta pots provide more air flow. Separate plants grown from cuttings. When you propagate violets by cuttings, you could have as many as 15 babies grow from a single parent. These must be separated before they're planted. Gently turn the cutting, along with all the soil, out onto a newspaper or table. Carefully remove the soil with your fingers to reveal the cut stem and all the babies. To distinguish one baby from another, look for small clusters of leaves that are attached to the parent. When you've located all the babies, carefully trim each one from the parent using a sterilized cutting tool. Transplant the violets. Fill your small pots with your African violet medium. Leave the medium loose, and don't pack it down. With the tip of your pinky finger or a pencil, make a half-inch (1.3 cm) indentation in the soil at the center of each pot. Gently place each seedling or baby plant into the hole in the soil. Make sure all the leaves and stems are above the soil. Loosely cover the roots with extra medium. Water the plants and store them somewhere warm and humid. Add some water to each pot so that the medium is moist. Place the pots with the new plants in a location that's warm, gets lots of indirect sun, and that's humid. If you don't have a humid location available, set up a humidifier where the plants are growing. Water the plants when the soil feels dry. African violets thrive best when their soil is somewhere between dry and moist, so give them water when the soil starts feeling dry to the touch. Over or underwatering the violets could prevent the plant from blooming. Use room temperature water rather than cold water, otherwise you could chill the roots. If this happens, the leaves or flowers may start to curl. Don't get water on the leaves or flowers, as this can lead to rings or spots forming on the plant. If you get water on the leaves or flowers, gently dry the area with an absorbent towel. Provide plenty of bright but indirect light. African violets need lots of light, and they won't flower if they don't get enough sun. However, they will scorch easily in direct sunlight, so their placement in the house is very important. In winter, the plants will do best near a window that faces south or west in the Northern Hemisphere, or north or east in the Southern Hemisphere. In summer, the plants will be better near a window that faces north or east in the Northern Hemisphere, or south or west in the Southern Hemisphere. To provide bright and indirect sunlight, provide shade by placing the plants behind lightweight curtains. Feed them fertilizer. These plants need lots of nutrients to continue producing flowers year-round, and the best way to ensure they get what they need is to provide them with fertilizer. There are specific fertilizers available for African violets, but the important thing is to provide them with balanced nutrients. A good fertilizer would be a 20-20-20, which means it has equal quantities of nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for feeding the violets. Monitor the temperature. The best temperature range for African violets is between 65 and 75 F (18 and 24 C). Keep them in an area where you can maintain this temperature, and keep them away from drafts and other things that could cause sudden temperature fluctuations. Anything below 50 F (10 C) will almost certainly kill the plant. Maintain the humidity. The ideal humidity level for African violets is between 40 and 60 percent. You can monitor this with a hygrometer. To add more humidity to the air, consider installing a portable humidifier in the room where the violets are kept. Violets that don't get enough humidity will grow slowly, and while they will produce flower buds, they likely won't bloom. Repot the plants every year. Because African violets thrive in small pots, it's important to repot them regularly to keep up with their growth. When you repot, make sure you use new soil, and a pot that's one size larger than the pot they're currently in.	Grow a new plant in water from a leaf. Plant a leaf right in the soil. Grow them from seeds. Determine the right time to transplant. Choose the right soil. Select the right pot. Separate plants grown from cuttings. Transplant the violets. Water the plants and store them somewhere warm and humid. Water the plants when the soil feels dry. Provide plenty of bright but indirect light. Feed them fertilizer. Monitor the temperature. Maintain the humidity. Repot the plants every year.
https://www.wikihow.com/Improve-Your-Speaking-Voice	How to Improve Your Speaking Voice	To improve your speaking voice, start by learning proper breathing techniques to strengthen your voice. For example, work on diaphragm breathing, or belly breath, by breathing in deeply for 4 seconds, holding the air for 4 seconds, and then releasing for 4 seconds. Repeat this exercise for 2 minutes daily. Next, start working on speaking from your diaphragm by taking a big breath and then speaking on the exhale as your belly flattens. Additionally, release tension in your body and throat to achieve a deeper, more relaxed tone.	Practice proper breathing. To produce a smooth, powerful, and natural voice, you must first learn proper breathing techniques. While humans are meant to breathe and speak from their diaphragms, many people do this with their chests instead, and this produces a weaker voice. You know you're a chest breather if you take a breath and your chest and shoulders rise. To correct this and to teach your body to breathe from the diaphragm: Breathe in deeply for four seconds, making sure you breathe into your diaphragm. After four seconds, hold the air in your diaphragm for another four seconds before exhaling for a count of four seconds. Repeat this exercise for two minutes every day. Work your way up to practicing this technique for five minutes a day. Once you're comfortable with the four second breathing, you can practice the same technique, but extend the inhale, hold, and exhale to 20 seconds each. You only need to do this once daily. Incorporate proper breathing into your speaking. As you teach your body the proper breathing technique, you can start working on speaking from your diaphragm as well. To do this, take a deep breath into your diaphragm and practice speaking as you exhale and your belly flattens. As you begin to run out of air, take another deep breath and speak again, but be sure you only speak as your belly is flattening. When possible, always breathe through your nose. Air inhaled through the nose is moister and better for your vocal chords and vocal strength. Relax your body and your voice. Muscle tension in the body and throat or emotional stress can all wreak havoc on your voice, and this can lead to a thin and nasally voice that has no resonance (doesn't carry well). The breathing exercises will hopefully calm your body and mind, and you can relax your throat by: Yawning deeply, and as you finish the yawn, begin humming. Open your jaw to a comfortable width and move your jaw from side to side as you hum. Do this for a few minutes, then use your fingers to massage your throat. Practice your pitch. It's important to speak in your natural pitch because trying to talk in a higher or lower pitch can damage your vocal chords, and it will affect your resonance. Moreover, a good pitch will result in a much more pleasant speaking voice, and while it may be difficult to change your natural pitch, you can make your voice fuller and deeper, and give it more character by working with the pitch you have. To take advantage of your natural pitch, be sure you are relaxed when you're going to speak. Stress can put tension on your muscles, including your vocal chords, and this can make your voice high-pitched and squeaky. Breathe from your diaphragm when you're speaking, because this will allow you to project your voice properly and fully. Resonance in your body is what will give your voice base and depth, because the air in your body vibrates in different cavities, such as the nose, throat, chest, and mouth, and these areas create different sound qualities. To have a full and deep voice, you have to resonate the air in all those cavities. For instance, if you only use the nasal cavity, you will have a higher and more nasally voice. Avoid nasal speech. Having a nasal voice means your voice won't be as deep, rich, or full as it should be. You can determine if you have a nasal voice by placing your fingers on the bridge of your nose and saying the words “rung” and “mom.” You should feel the bridge vibrate when you say those words. Now say the words “sour,” “bracelet,” and “tiger.” If you felt the same vibration in your nose, you are speaking with a nasal voice. To prevent this: Concentrate on using the full range of motion with your lips, jaw, teeth, and tongue when you speak. When you don't use the full range of motions with these articulators, you are more likely to focus sound in your nasal cavity rather than your mouth. Speak more melodiously. A melodious voice is one that conveys change, emotion, and life, whereas a non-melodious voice is flat and monotonous. You can work on having more melody in your voice by varying your pitch variety as you speak. Many speakers naturally do this when posing questions: when people speak, they indicate a question by raising the pitch of the voice on the final syllables of the phrase. Practice saying the phrase “you are going there” in three different ways: the first way is without changing your inflection (a statement), the second way is by slightly raising the pitch of your voice with each word (a question), and the third is by slightly lowering the pitch with each word (emphatic). Say the phrase out loud and see how it conveys different meanings. To practice incorporating these changes into every day speech, read aloud to yourself every day, and focus on varying the pitch of your voice on different words to convey different emotions. Work on articulation and enunciation. If you mumble or don't articulate properly, your words will be unclear when you speak and people will have a hard time understanding you. The keys to clear articulation are forming the sound to make the word accurately, supporting the sound with your breath, and finishing the sound completely. Articulation and enunciation exercises include: Tongue exercise: Fold your tongue back as though you were trying to touch the back of your throat. Stretch it as far back as you can, then stick it out of your mouth as far as possible. Repeat 10 times. Jaw exercise: using broad movements with your jaws and an exaggerated motion with your tongue and jaw, repeat each of the following syllables five times: bah, mah, wah, fah, pah, dah, jah, lah, kwah, sah, thah, see, so, soo, zee, zo, zoo Lip exercise: say the following tongue twister, focusing on articulating each word: “To sit in solemn silence in a dull dark dock; In a pestilential prison with a life long lock; Awaiting the sensation of a short sharp shock; From a cheap and chippy chopper on a big black block.” As you improve, say it faster and faster. Project from your mask. The mask is the area of your face that includes the lips, the side of the nose, and the bridge of the nose, and this is the area from which your voice should come. To find this area, say mmm-hmm over and over. Place your hands on your lips and move the sound around until you feel your mask vibrating. To project from this area: Say mmm-hmm one, mmm-hmm two, mmm-hmm three, and take note of whether your mask is vibrating when you say the numbers. If not, work on moving the sound around until your mmm-hmms and your numbers are coming from your mask. Do a vocal strength training workout. To help project your voice better and produce a strong, powerful voice, try strength exercises. To do this, inhale deeply and slowly exhale as you make a hissing sound. Repeat this 10 times daily. You can also try saying “ney” 10 times, but the trick is to say it loudly without yelling, and to say it in different pitches as you work up and then down your vocal range.	Practice proper breathing. Incorporate proper breathing into your speaking. Relax your body and your voice. Practice your pitch. Avoid nasal speech. Speak more melodiously. Work on articulation and enunciation. Project from your mask. Do a vocal strength training workout.
https://www.wikihow.com/Deal-With-Anxiety	How to Deal With Anxiety	To deal with anxiety, try meditating by breathing in and out deeply for 5 minutes at a time, which can help reduce your anxiety levels. Additionally, try imagining a place where you feel peaceful and safe, which can help remove thoughts of anxiety from your brain. You could also try talking to someone you trust about your anxiety, since letting out your feelings can help relieve stress. For a longer-term solution, aim to reduce your sugar and alcohol consumption, since they can increase anxiety levels.	Eliminate anxiety-inducing food and/or drink from your diet. It sounds simple, but changing what you ingest daily can have a huge impact on your anxiety levels. If you notice yourself feeling anxious, panicky, or stressed every day, plan to implement at least one of these dietary changes. Rethink your consumption of the following common anxiety provokers: Coffee. The most popular “energy drink” of all time may also be one of the leading causes of anxiety. If you drink coffee every morning, try switching to decaffeinated tea or just water for a few weeks. It may be hard to give up, but chances are you'll see a reduction in your stress levels over this period of time. Sugar and starch. People often see eating sugary and starchy treats (like ice cream, cookies, or pasta) as an option for stress reduction, since comfort foods temporarily provide a feeling of calm. However, the rise and fall of blood sugar that occurs after eating these foods can actually cause emotional strain and stress. Alcohol. After a stressful day at work, many unwind over a few drinks. Alcohol makes stress feel far away in the moment, but the after-effect cancels out the temporary sense of relaxation. Drink sparingly, and when you do drink, make sure to hydrate to reduce the chance of getting a very stressful hangover. In functional medicine, anxiety is believed to be caused by inflammation of the central nervous system. This inflammation stems from the gut, so changing your diet may lead to a reduction in anxiety. Incorporate mood-enhancing foods into your diet. Keeping yourself healthy with a balanced diet can go a long way toward stabilizing your mood. If you're getting the right nutrients, your body will be better able to ward off anxiety during stressful situations. To avoid the negative mental-health effects of coffee, alcohol, and sugar, try replacing these foods with fruits and vegetables. Consume more foods high in antioxidants such as blueberries and acai berries. These help to raise mood levels and lower the hormones responsible for stress. Try foods that are high in Vitamins D, B, and E, such as eggs, almonds, and salmon. Foods high in omega-3 fatty acids, such as walnuts or flax seeds, may also help. Foods high in minerals like magnesium, such as whole grains (pasta and bread), maca root, and seaweed. Most people do not get the recommended amount of magnesium which can result in a variety of symptoms, including anxiety. Foods and drinks that have GABA, a type of neurotransmitter that increases sleep and relaxation, should be consumed on a regular basis. Some of these include kefir (a cultured dairy product), kimchi, and oolong tea. Try exercises that relieve anxiety. Studies have shown that regular exercise relieves symptoms of everyday anxiety and also helps to treat anxiety disorders. It improves feelings of well-being both while you're exercising and for hours afterward. Cardiovascular exercises such as running or biking as well as weight training and other muscle-building exercises all serve the purpose of reducing anxiety. Consider giving yoga a try. The soothing atmosphere of yoga studios, and the chance to be quiet and internally-focused for an hour or so, make this physical activity particularly conducive to calming anxiety. If the thought of exercising itself makes you anxious, try incorporating low-impact physical activity into your routines. You don't have to play a team sport or join a gym to get enough exercise; simply walking around your neighborhood can go a long way toward boosting your mood every day. Use deep-breathing exercises. Breathing deeply and slowly will immediately decrease your stress level. Most people practice shallow chest breathing, drawing breath into their lungs and exhaling at a rapid rate. When we're feeling stressed, we tend to breathe even more quickly, which stresses us out even more. Instead, focus on breathing from your diaphragm or belly. Your stomach should balloon up. Breathing deeply and slowly will draw in more air than breathing through the lungs would, and also helps decrease your blood pressure, relax your muscles, and calm you down. Try breathing in for a count of 4, holding for a count of 3, and breathing out for a count of 4. Keeping your total number of breaths to 8 or less in one minute will help to immediately reduce anxiety levels. Do something you love. Often, anxiety builds up when you don't get a chance to detox from life's problems. Take at least ten minutes during your day to practice a hobby or pastime which brings you peace. This may be reading, playing sports, playing music, or making art. Giving yourself an outlet will help to remove the anxiety from your mind both immediately and in the long run. If you have a little free time, look into taking a new class in a field of interest to you. If you love jewelry, look into a local ring making class. If you've always wanted to learn a new language, start taking lessons from a local teacher or audit a language class at a local community college. During the times that you are doing your favorite things, make a conscious decision to avoid thinking about your stressors. Removing them from your thoughts will allow you to enjoy your activity much more, and help prevent future ruminations. Do whatever it is that helps you relax in a healthy way. There's no one right way to de-stress , everyone is different. Relax at home with friends and family. When you're at home you should be totally anxiety free. Your home, and the people you love, should be your sanctuary. When you are dealing with a lot of anxiety, take some time and relax at home. Make sure that you give yourself ample time to spend with those closest to you, in happy and non-stressful scenarios. Take a hot bath, listen to calming music, and avoid anything that might worsen your anxiety. If you're not around anyone at your home, call a friend, or ask someone to come over. It can be comforting to spend time with people you love. Talk to a family member or friend about how you're feeling. Say something like, “I've been very anxious lately, and it's been preventing me from feeling happy. Do you ever feel this way?” Get some sun exposure. Vitamin D deficiency may contribute to your anxiety. The best way to increase your Vitamin D is to go outside in the sun for at least fifteen minutes a day. You can also take Vitamin D supplements if necessary. Don’t overwhelm yourself. If you keep a busy schedule, bring work back with you from the office, and stress about perfecting your school papers, you're likely often overwhelming yourself and creating more anxiety than is necessary. Keep a schedule of your necessary activities and cut everything else out for a bit. Giving yourself alone time to deal with your anxiety will help you to overcome it in the long run. Although getting together with friends regularly is always nice, doing it too often can cause anxiety about letting them down and not having time to yourself. Spread out friend dates with plenty of time for yourself in between. Learn to say “no” to some requests. Whether it be another commitment from work or piling on errands, turning down invites is okay from time to time. Get lots of sleep. A lack of sleep can leave anyone feeling haggard and worn out, and it's worse for individuals who suffer from anxiety. Insufficient sleep can cause your anxious, worried thoughts to worsen. Make sure that you're getting 7–9 hours of sleep every night. Try going to bed and waking up at the same times every day. This will help to regulate your sleep cycle, which will help you to get better nights of sleep. If you're having a hard time falling or staying asleep, try using melatonin supplements. Melatonin is a hormone your body creates to help you fall asleep. You can buy the hormone in low dose pills from most health food stores. Avoid using your phone, laptop, and television in the hour before you go to bed. These devices can inhibit healthy sleep and prevent proper melatonin production in your body because of the bright light they put off. Confront sources of anxiety you can control. There are many different situations that induce anxiety, and it's helpful to pinpoint exactly what might be making you anxious and take steps to confront it. If you're behind on doing your taxes, for example, you may feel like you've got a yoke around your shoulders until the chore is finally done. If your job or finances are causing you stress, you may want to look for a new, better paying job. You can also get a certificate or go back to school to increase your earning potential. Keep a journal to help you figure out what exactly is making your mood dip. Writing down your thoughts can often reveal sources of anxiety you hadn't yet acknowledged to yourself, and give you ideas of how to confront that anxiety. Learn about anxiety as much as possible. Even just understanding how anxiety works and what causes it can help you feel more in control of it. Even if a particular source of anxiety feels as though it is out of your control, you may be able to change something about the situation to make it feel less stressful to you. For example, if you feel anxious about the holidays months before the time to visit with family actually rolls around, figure out a way to approach the situation differently. Try hosting your extended family at your house so you won't have to travel, or holding your celebration at a restaurant so you don't have to host. Look at the flexible side of anxiety-inducing situations. Avoid sources of anxiety you can’t control. If a certain type of situation makes you feel anxious, it's OK to simply avoid it. If you hate flying, and don't feel this fear is ever going to abate, it's OK to drive. Know your limits, and practice self-preservation. However, it is important to deal with anxieties if they start to interfere with your life. For example, if you work in a profession that requires you to fly frequently, then driving is not a practical option and it would be better for you to see a therapist for help dealing with your anxiety about flying. If you feel that your functioning (financial, social, occupational, or home) has decreased, such as from a job loss or poor review, stress on your relationships, or in some other notable way, and it is due to avoiding things that cause you anxiety, then it's time to seek out a counselor and psychiatrist. If certain people in your life cause you anxiety and you don't feel comfortable/can't confront them, make changes so that you don't have to be around them. If you are anxious about any a societal situation, like climate change , remind yourself that you can not fix these issues alone. If your work or school is stressing you out, take a time during the day where you turn off your cellphone and laptop to remove yourself from the anxiety they cause. If you know you get anxious being glued to your email because of work, take it out of your life for a bit. Practice meditation. Relaxation and meditation routines are very effective at lowering anxiety levels, especially for people with generalized anxiety disorder (GAD). There are many different types of meditation, so it's best to experiment with a few different methods and choose the one that makes you feel the most comfortable and relaxed. You can practice meditation when you feel an anxiety attack coming on, or daily, to decrease your overall anxiety. Guided meditation is a good option for beginners. A guided meditation can be practiced in person, but it may be easier to buy a meditation CD or watch a meditation video on YouTube to start. You'll learn techniques on how to calm yourself down when your heart starts to race or when you feel you are not in control of your thoughts. Practice mindfulness meditation. Mindfulness meditation involves focusing on a particular thought or pattern of thoughts that make you anxious and naming the emotions that surface without passing judgment or being critical of them. If the emotions get too intense, back off a bit and focus on your breathing. This practice can be as simple as finding a quiet space to think for 5 minutes at the beginning of each day. Here is an example technique you can try: Sit comfortably and close your eyes. Spend 5 minutes feeling the “in” and “out” movements of your breathing. Now invite in an emotion: anxiety, depression, a painful memory, a recent conflict. Hold the emotion in your mind, but don't allow yourself to get lost in thinking. Just “sit” with the emotion as you might sit with a friend. Watch the emotion. Hold it in your conscious awareness and say, “I am here for you. I will sit with you as long as you need.” Allow the emotion to express itself and watch it change. If you sit with the emotion as a friend, the emotion will begin to transform itself and heal. Try visualization. This is a process of clearing your mind of anxiety-inducing thoughts and images and replacing them with peaceful thoughts and pictures. Try using guided imagery to picture a place that you feel relaxed and safe in. As you picture the scene, focus on the details so that your mind is fully immersed in the place of your imagination. Turning your thoughts away from your anxiety to positive thoughts and images will calm both your body and your mind, and prepare your for dealing with whatever is causing you your anxiety. Ask for help. For many people, talking about anxiety is a very helpful release. If you need to vent, ask your spouse or a friend for advice and tell them how you feel. Sometimes just putting your feelings into words can take a lot of stress away. Try saying something like, “I'd like to talk with you about how I'm feeling. Lately I've been overwhelmed by anxiety; it's a feeling I can't escape.” If you lean on the same person for advice too often, your problems may overburden someone else. Make sure that you're not overwhelming your confidante. If you have a lot of anxiety to work through, consider seeing a therapist. You'll be free to discuss your problems as much as you need to in the knowledge that a trained professional is there to help. See a therapist. Know when it's time to get a doctor involved. If you are experiencing chronic anxiety and feel you may have an anxiety disorder, make an appointment with a psychologist or a psychiatrist. Anxiety can manifest as a mental-health disorder, such as generalized anxiety disorder (GAD). Anxiety disorders can lead to debilitating worry, panic attacks, agoraphobic, separation anxiety, social anxiety, and even obsessive-compulsive disorder. It's very difficult to treat mental-health anxiety disorders without the help of a doctor, and the sooner you see one, the faster you'll feel better. Although “diagnosis” can be an intimidating word, a diagnosis of a mental-health disorder—such as anxiety disorder—will help your therapist or psychiatrist know how to treat your specific case of anxiety. To find a therapist, start by talking to your medical doctor. He or she may have recommendations on where to find a good mental-health professional. There are also online resources to connect you with a therapist or psychiatrist in your area: the ADAA (Anxiety and Depression Association of America) website lets you search for therapists in your area. It's important that you trust your therapist, and feel relaxed and comfortable when speaking to them. When searching for a therapist, you should also check in with your health-insurance provider to see if therapy, psychiatrist, and medication expenses are covered by your insurance. Explain your anxiety to your doctor. Be as specific as possible when describing your anxiety symptoms to a therapist or psychiatrist. They're there to help you, and will already be familiar with a range of mental-illness symptoms and manifestations of anxiety. If you have specific triggers that set off your anxiety, be sure to mention those. Anxiety disorders respond well to therapy, but only if your therapist has enough information to help you. Try saying something like: “Normally I'm fine, but whenever I have to be in a crowd, my breathing and heart rate increase and I'm suddenly very anxious.” “I have so many anxious thoughts going through my head that it's hard for me to get through the day.” Sign up for Cognitive Behavioral Therapy (CBT). CBT is a type of psychotherapy where your therapist teaches you how to cope with your anxiety while reframing your way of thinking. For this therapy, you will meet with a therapist once every week or two. It can be used in combination with medication and other forms of therapy. Your therapist may give you exercises to do between appointments. Always do these exercises to help improve the effectiveness of therapy. CBT can take up to a few months. You must remain committed to the therapy for the entire duration for it to work. Consider anti-anxiety medications. If you experience prolonged anxiety that affects your ability to sleep and go about your day for an extended period of time, ask your psychiatrist about medication that could reduce your anxiety. Many anti-anxiety drugs can have negative side effects or be habit-forming, so be sure to try methods such as therapy, exercise, and mental strategies before jumping into medications. Panic attacks, extreme social anxiety, and other symptoms can be effectively treated with a prescription drug that suits your needs. Try a natural remedy. Certain herbs, teas, and supplements are said to decrease symptoms of anxiety. Although homeopathic methods are not proven medically, herbs and teas can be useful in soothing and calming you. Try the following options: The chamomile flower is traditionally used to treat anxiety, stress, and an upset stomach. It has properties that are similar to anti-depressant drugs. It can be brewed into tea or taken as a supplement. Ashwagandha is an herb used in Ayurvedic medicine that may be helpful in treating anxiety. You can buy it as a supplement. Ginseng is said to help the body reduce stress. Try taking a ginseng supplement daily for its anxiety-fighting effects. Consider trying Kava kava. It is a Polynesian plant said to have a sedative effect that relieves anxiety if used short-term. However, long-term use is not advised, and some people report it can actually make their anxiety worse. If you're interested in trying it, see if your local health foods store carries this supplement, or order it online. Valerian root is popular in Europe for its sedative properties. Take it when you are experiencing difficult bouts of anxiety that you can't seem to overcome.	Eliminate anxiety-inducing food and/or drink from your diet. Incorporate mood-enhancing foods into your diet. Try exercises that relieve anxiety. Use deep-breathing exercises. Do something you love. Relax at home with friends and family. Get some sun exposure. Don’t overwhelm yourself. Get lots of sleep. Confront sources of anxiety you can control. Avoid sources of anxiety you can’t control. Practice meditation. Practice mindfulness meditation. Try visualization. Ask for help. See a therapist. Explain your anxiety to your doctor. Sign up for Cognitive Behavioral Therapy (CBT). Consider anti-anxiety medications. Try a natural remedy.
https://www.wikihow.com/Make-a-Fever-Break	How to Make a Fever Break	If you need to make a fever break, take a cool bath or a shower to lower the person's body temperature. You can also apply a cloth soaked in cool water to their forehead to help bring down the fever, or have them sit or lie down near a fan. Acetaminophen works as an antipyretic, so administer a dose based on the person's age and weight every 4-6 hours. You can also use ibuprofen if you prefer, but do not use this in children under the age of 2. Contact your doctor if the fever persists for more than a couple of days or rises above 101°F for children or 103°F for adults.	Be patient and monitor the temperature. The vast majority of fevers in children and adults are self-limiting, and usually disappear within two to three days. Therefore, you should be patient with mild-to-moderate fevers for a few days (because they are beneficial) and monitor the temperature every couple of hours or so to make sure the fever doesn't get dangerously high. For infants and toddlers, it's best to take rectal readings. Fevers that last for a week or more are reason for concern, as are high temperatures (over 103°F or 39.4°C in adults and over 101°F or 38.3°C in kids). Keep in mind that body temperature is usually highest in the evening and after physical activity. Menstruation, feeling strong emotions and being in a hot and humid environment also raise the core body temperature temporarily. In addition to sweating, other symptoms associated with mild-to-moderate fevers include: muscle aches, general weakness, fatigue, shivering, headache, loss of appetite and flushed face. Additional symptoms associated with high fevers include: hallucinations, confusion, irritability, convulsions, and potential loss of consciousness (coma). While waiting out a mild-to-moderate fever, make sure to keep well hydrated. Fevers trigger sweating, which can quickly lead to dehydration without making the effort to drink lots of fluids. Remove excess clothing or blankets. A simple and common-sense method of reducing a fever is to remove excess clothing during waking hours and excess blankets while in bed. Clothes and blankets insulate our bodies and prevent heat from escaping from our skin. Thus, wear one layer of lightweight clothing and use one lightweight blanket to sleep with while trying to combat a high fever. Avoid clothes and blankets made from synthetic fabrics or wool. Stick with cotton fabrics instead because they breathe better. Remember that your head and feet are capable of losing a lot of heat, so try not to cover your head with hats or your feet with thick socks while fighting a high fever. Don't bundle up someone who develops the chills from a fever because they can get over-heated quickly. Take a cool bath or shower. If you or your child develops a high fever with the associated symptoms (see above), then take action to lower the body temperature by taking a cool bath or shower. However, it's important not to use cold water, ice or alcohol solution because it often makes the situation worse by triggering shivering, which then tends to raise the core body temperature even more. Stick to tepid or cool water and bathe for about 10 to 15 minutes. Taking a bath may be easier than a shower if you are tired, weak and achy. As an alternative, grab a clean cloth or sponge, soak it in cool water, wring it out, and apply it to the forehead as a cold compress. Change it every 20 minutes until the fever comes down. Another good idea is using a spray bottle filled with chilled distilled water to spritzer (spray) yourself every 30 minutes or so in order to cool down. Focus on spraying your face, neck and upper chest for best results. Keep well hydrated. Keeping well hydrated is always important, but it becomes even more so with a fever because you lose more water via perspiration. Aim to increase your water consumption by at least 25%. So if you're used to drinking eight large glasses of purified water daily (the recommended amount for optimal health), increase it to 10 glasses if you have a fever. Drink cool beverages with ice added to try and bring a fever down. Natural fruit / vegetable juice is a good idea because it contains sodium (an electrolyte), which is lost during sweating. Avoid alcoholic and caffeinated beverages as they can flush the skin and make a person feel warmer. For fevers without noticeable perspiration, consider consuming warmer beverages (such as herbal tea) and foods (such as chicken soup) to trigger sweating — it leads to evaporative cooling of the body. Sit or lay near a fan. The more air that circulates around your body and over your sweaty skin, the more effective the evaporative cooling process is. That's why we sweat in the first place, so that our skin and surface blood vessels cool down as the ambient air evaporates the moisture. Being near a fan simply speeds this process up. Therefore, sit and sleep next to an oscillating fan to help bring down a fever, although make sure enough skin is exposed to be effective. Don't be so close to a fan or have it turned up so high that it causes chills, as shivering and the resulting goose bumps acts to increase the core body temperature. Air conditioning may be the best idea for a hot and humid room, but a mechanical fan is usually a better choice because it's less likely to make the room too cold after a while. Know when to see your doctor. Most fevers are beneficial and shouldn't be artificially reduced or suppressed, but sometimes it's necessary to prevent serious complications, such as a febrile seizures, coma or brain damage. To best understand how to treat a fever, make an appointment with your doctor if it doesn't go away within a week or if the temperature is considered high (see above). Your doctor has all the instruments necessary to take a temperature reading in the most appropriate area — either orally, rectally, under the armpit or in the ear canal. It's time to take your feverish child to the doctor if they have a high fever (>101°F or 38.3°C) and are: listless, irritable, vomiting, makes poor eye contact, appears very sleepy most of the time and/or has completely lost their appetite. Keep in mind that since children are smaller and growing, they might become seriously dehydrated sooner if a fever continues more than a couple days. Adults should see their doctor if they develop a high fever (>103°F or 39.4°C) and any of the following: severe headache, throat swelling, bad skin rash, light sensitivity, stiff neck, confusion, irritability, chest pain, abdominal pain, constant vomiting, numbness and tingling in limbs and/or seizures. If the high fever is caused by a bacterial infection, then your doctor may recommend antibiotics first in order to control or eliminate the infection. Consider taking acetaminophen (Tylenol). Acetaminophen is not only a painkiller (analgesic), but it's also a strong antipyretic, which means it can trigger the hypothalamus in the brain to lower body temperature. In other words, it works by turning down your brain's thermostat. Acetaminophen is typically best and safest for young children with high fevers (using the weight-appropriate dosage recommendations on the box) and also helpful for teenagers and adults. For a high fever, it's recommended to take a dose of acetaminophen every 4 to 6 hours. For adults, the maximum recommended daily dose of acetaminophen is 3,000 mg. Taking too much acetaminophen or taking it for too long can be toxic and damaging to the liver. Pay attention to the ingredients in other medications as well. For example, cold medicine can include acetaminophen. Alcohol should never be combined with acetaminophen. Try ibuprofen (Advil, Motrin) instead. Ibuprofen is also a good antipyretic — in fact, in some studies it's more effective than acetaminophen at reducing fever in children aged between 2 to 12 years. The main issue is that it's typically not recommended for children younger than 2 years (especially infants younger than 6 months) because of potential serious side effects. Ibuprofen is also a good anti-inflammatory (unlike acetaminophen), which can be helpful if you or your child also experience muscle / joint aches with the fever. For adults, between 400-600 mg can be taken every 6 hours for reducing high fevers. Child doses are typically half that, but it depends on their weight and other health factors, so ask your doctor. Taking too much ibuprofen or taking it for too long can be irritating and damaging to the stomach and kidneys, so take the medication with food. In fact, stomach ulcers and kidney failure are the most serious side effects. Furthermore, alcohol should never be combined with ibuprofen. Be cautious with aspirin. Aspirin is a good anti-inflammatory and strong antipyretic and is very effective for treating high fevers in adults. However, aspirin is more toxic than either acetaminophen or ibuprofen is, particularly to children. As such, aspirin should not be used for fever reduction or any other condition in children or adolescents, especially those experiencing or recovering from viral illness such as the chickenpox or flu — it's linked to Reye's syndrome, an allergic reaction involving prolonged vomiting, confusion, liver failure and brain damage. Aspirin (Anacin, Bayer, Bufferin) is particularly irritating to the lining of the stomach and a significant cause of stomach ulcers in the United States and Canada. Always take aspirin on a full stomach. Maximum adult daily dosage of aspirin is 4,000 mg. Exceeding this amount may cause an upset stomach, ringing in the ears, dizziness and blurred vision.	Be patient and monitor the temperature. Remove excess clothing or blankets. Take a cool bath or shower. Keep well hydrated. Sit or lay near a fan. Know when to see your doctor. Consider taking acetaminophen (Tylenol). Try ibuprofen (Advil, Motrin) instead. Be cautious with aspirin.
https://www.wikihow.com/Break-an-Egg	How to Break an Egg	To break an egg cleanly, tap it on a hard surface to crack the shell. Hold the egg over a bowl or frying pan and press your thumbs against the indentation, then gently pull the shell apart to release the yolk and whites. To crack 2 eggs at once, tap them both against a firm surface. Hold both eggs over a bowl, keeping your index and pinky fingers on the top and base of the eggs to hold them steady. Use your other fingers to pull the eggs apart.	Hold the egg in your dominant hand. It's best to use your dominate hand when cracking an egg. Grasp the egg firmly in your hand so the long side is facing downward. There is no exact way to hold the egg. Simply hold it in whatever fashion is comfortable for you. Tap the egg on a firm surface. Do not tap the egg on the side of a bowl or dish as the shell may shatter and get into the bowl. Instead, give the long side a few firm taps on a hard, flat surface. Your kitchen counter should work fine. Find the indentation of the egg. Turn the egg over to look at the crack you made. There should be a sideways crack running down the egg and a small indentation near the center of the crack. Pull the shell apart. Press your thumbs against the indentation on the egg. Secure the rest of the egg with your remaining fingers. Holding the egg over a bowl, gently pull the egg apart to release the shell into the bowl. Take two eggs in either hand. If you feel comfortable using your non-dominant hand, you can crack two eggs at once. Secure an egg in either hand. Hold the eggs in whatever fashion is comfortable for you, but make sure your pinky and ring finger touch the bottom of the egg. You may have to hold your egg slightly differently in either hand, which should not affect the process of cracking the eggs. Crack the eggs in your hands. Tap either egg against a firm surface, like the kitchen counter. A few firm taps should make the eggshells crack slightly. Crack the eggs at the same time. Pry the eggs opened. Hold the egg over a bowl. Keep your index and pinky finger on the base of the egg to keep it steady. Then, use your remaining fingers to pull the egg apart and release its contents into your bowl. The technique will take practice, as it's tricky to crack an egg with a single hand. You may break some eggs in the process. Use your dominant hand for the most part. Unless you want to crack two eggs at once, always use your dominant hand. It will be much easier to maneuver the egg using your dominant hand. Remove any bits of shell. Even with the best technique, shells can fall into the egg whites and yolk. To fix the issue, wet your fingers. Place your fingers into the egg whites and yokes. The water will naturally attract the bits of shells. Avoid breaking eggs on the edges of bowls. Never break an egg on the edge of a bowl or dish. While this is the conventional method, it's not effective as it generally causes the egg to shatter.	Hold the egg in your dominant hand. Tap the egg on a firm surface. Find the indentation of the egg. Pull the shell apart. Take two eggs in either hand. Crack the eggs in your hands. Pry the eggs opened. Use your dominant hand for the most part. Remove any bits of shell. Avoid breaking eggs on the edges of bowls.
https://www.wikihow.com/Care-for-Abyssinian-Guinea-Pigs	How to Care for Abyssinian Guinea Pigs	To care for your Abyssinian guinea pig, feed it a constant supply of timothy, orchard, or brome hay, which provides the fiber your guinea pig needs. Add fresh fruits and vegetables, like kale, mustard greens, grapes, and oranges, along with pellets reinforced with vitamin C, to give your guinea pig the nutrients it needs. Additionally, give your guinea pig chew toys, paper towel rolls, wicker, or cardboard boxes for it to chew on in order to wear down its teeth, which grow constantly. To make sure your guinea pig gets enough exercise, let your it play outside of its cage under supervision every day. Also, brush your guinea pig every other day to prevent tangles.	House your Abyssinian in the largest possible cage. House your pet in the largest cage that your living space and budget can accommodate. Abyssinians are known for their high energy, so they need plenty of space for exercise. A good size for one guinea pig is about 7 square feet (0.65 square meters), or 30 by 36 inches (76 by 91 cm). Many cages advertised for guinea pigs are around 2 square feet, which is too small for an active Abyssinian. Don't use a glass aquarium or a cage with a wire bottom. Glass aquariums don't allow enough air flow, and wire bottoms can injure a guinea pig's feet and legs. Cover the bottom of the cage with soft bedding. Commercial paper bedding is popular and controls odor. While it doesn't control odor, Timothy hay is a good option, since guinea pigs love to tunnel through and eat it. For the best of both worlds, use paper bedding for the base layer and hay for the top. Stay away from wood shavings, straw, and cat litter, which can each cause injuries or health problems. Place a hide area in its cage. A dark hide area will offer your guinea pig a place to rest and help prevent stress. You can find a hide box online or at your local pet store. You could also just use a cardboard box, a flower pot, or a large PVC tube. If you have more than one guinea pig, then make sure that each animal has its own hideaway. Keep the cage away from drafts and direct heat sources. Like all guinea pigs, Abyssinians are prone to overheating, so keep the cage away from fireplaces, sunlit windows, and other sources of direct heat. They prefer temperatures between 65 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit (18 to 24 degrees Celsius), so keep the cage away from unheated, drafty areas, too. Abyssinians are especially social and like to be around their owners, so the family room is a good cage location. However, they have sensitive hearing, so keep the cage away from televisions, speakers, and other sources of loud noise. Keep clean water in its cage at all times. Your Abby should always have access to clean fresh water in a bowl or stoppered bottle container. It will probably like to play and sit in a water bowl, so you'll need to change the water several times a day. A stoppered bottle won't need to be changed as frequently. Its spout should be metal so your Abby can't chew through it. Provide a constant supply of grass hay. Timothy, orchard, or brome hay is the most important part of your pet's diet. Hay provides the fiber a guinea pig needs and helps wear down its teeth. Go for grass hay instead of legume hay, such as alfalfa, which contains too much protein and calcium and can lead to obesity. Feed your Abby guinea pig pellets in moderation. Guinea pig pellets provide needed vitamins and minerals, but a constant supply can lead to obesity. Abyssinians are prone to obesity-related diseases, such as diabetes, so you should only provide a small daily portion. A good portion size is 1/8 cup (30 mL) of pellets per 2 pounds (0.9 kg) of weight. Provide a small portion of fresh fruits or veggies. Washed fruits or veggies will keep your guinea pig's diet well-rounded and help prevent it from getting bored with its food. Good choices include kale, mustard and collard greens, grapes, kiwis, and oranges. Serve 1/2 to 1 cup (120 to 240 mL) each day, and remove uneaten portions within a few hours to prevent bacterial growth. Guinea pigs usually don't like cold food, so give it fruits and veggies at room temperature. Don't feed your pet iceberg lettuce, nuts or seeds with shells, dairy products, and candy. Make sure it gets enough vitamin C. Like all other breeds, Abyssinian guinea pigs need to consume lots of vitamin C. Feeding it pellets fortified with vitamin C and daily portions of fresh fruits and veggies will help meet its nutritional needs. You can also purchase chewable vitamin C tablets for guinea pigs or supplements that dissolve in water. Give the cage a daily spot cleaning. Transfer your pet to a spare cage or safe spot, then scoop out droppings, remove uneaten food, and replace soiled bedding. Wash the food and water containers with hot, soapy water, and rinse them well before refilling them. When you do your daily spot cleaning, check for potential hazards and damage to the cage. Check the droppings for signs of illness, such as diarrhea. Wear latex or rubber gloves, use cleaning supplies designated for cage cleaning only, and wash your hands when you're finished. Give the cage a weekly deep cleaning. Take everything out of the cage and throw away all of the old bedding. Clean the cage with hot, soapy water, and use a scrub pad or old toothbrush to remove any stubborn deposits from the bars and floor. Use a store-bought disinfectant or a mild bleach solution to sanitize the cage, toys, and food and water containers. Rinse the cage and accessories thoroughly with hot water after disinfecting them. Let everything dry completely, then add fresh bedding and put the cage back together. Brush your Abyssinian every other day. While they're considered short-haired guinea pigs, Abyssinians have a unique tufted coat that requires some maintenance. Use a soft bristle brush or toothbrush to groom your pet to prevent tangles. Brush outward from the centers of the tufted rosettes on its shoulders, back, and hindquarters. Pay particular attention to the rear end, which is especially prone to matting and compacted droppings. If your guinea pig has a tendency to get matted fur on its rear, trim the fur shorter in that area. You can do it yourself or ask your vet to help you. Bathe your guinea pig only when necessary. Abyssinians handle most of their grooming themselves, and they prefer their own scent to that of cleaning products. However, your pet won't be happy if its beautiful coat gets messy or sticky, so an occasional bath might be necessary. Fill a basin with about an inch (two to three cm) of warm water, then place your guinea pig in the basin. Give it a minute to adjust, and pet it and offer treats so it knows it's safe. Wet its fur with your hands, but take care to avoid its face and ears. Gently massage it with shampoo labelled for guinea pigs, then rinse away all soapy residue with running warm water. Towel dry your guinea pig and brush its fur to prevent matting. Give your pet chew toys and chew sticks. Like other guinea pigs breeds, Abyssinians need to chew in order to wear down their teeth, which grow constantly. Chew sticks and chew toys, cardboard boxes, paper towel rolls, and untreated wood or wicker are all great options. Keep backups handy so you can replace destroyed toys when necessary. Let your guinea pig play outside of its cage under supervision. All guinea pigs are social animals, but Abyssinians love to be with their owners even more than other breeds. In addition to meeting its social needs, daily out of cage time will give your active Abby exercise. Always supervise your pet closely when it's out of its cage, and make sure the room is secure and guinea pig proof. While they're social, Abyssinians typically don't like being held or cuddled. Keep this in mind when small children interact with your Abby. Avoid exercise wheels and balls. They're both bad for a guinea pig's back, and a ball can lead to heat stroke. Make sure the out of cage play area is guinea pig proof. Abyssinians are notoriously mischievous, so you'll need to make sure it can't get into any trouble during out of cage playtime. Keep it away from electrical cords, rugs, or other objects that might tempt it to chew. Make sure it can't get under sofas or beds, into vents, or any other places where it might get lost. Keep other pets away during out of cage time, and supervise children when they interact with your guinea pig. Get your Abyssinian a companion. Your super social Abby will be happier if it has a playmate, especially if you can't spend lots of quality time with it. Caring for multiple guinea pigs isn't too much more demanding than owning just one. The most important thing is to provide a large enough enclosure. Believe it or not, it's illegal to own just one guinea pig in Switzerland!	House your Abyssinian in the largest possible cage. Cover the bottom of the cage with soft bedding. Place a hide area in its cage. Keep the cage away from drafts and direct heat sources. Keep clean water in its cage at all times. Provide a constant supply of grass hay. Feed your Abby guinea pig pellets in moderation. Provide a small portion of fresh fruits or veggies. Make sure it gets enough vitamin C. Give the cage a daily spot cleaning. Give the cage a weekly deep cleaning. Brush your Abyssinian every other day. Bathe your guinea pig only when necessary. Give your pet chew toys and chew sticks. Let your guinea pig play outside of its cage under supervision. Make sure the out of cage play area is guinea pig proof. Get your Abyssinian a companion.
https://www.wikihow.com/Wash-a-Horse-Rug	How to Wash a Horse Rug	If you want to hand-wash a horse rug, fill a large bin with hot water and add non-biological, non-detergent soap. Soak the rug in the bin for at least 30 minutes, pushing it down with a broom handle to ensure it's completely wet. After it's soaked, spread the rug on a clean, flat surface and scrub the rug with a stiff-bristled brush, working from the top of the rug to the bottom. When you're finished, hang the rug over a strong washing line on a fence to air-dry.	Fill a large bin with hot water and non-biological, non-detergent soap. Non-biological soap doesn't contain enzymes that break down fatty, starchy, and greasy compounds, as they can irritate your horse's skin. Detergent soaps can harden the proofing layer of your rug and cause it to peel off. Follow manufacturer's directions for the amount of soap per portion of water. Hand-wash lighter horse rugs, such as summer sheets and coolers. Make sure the bin is large enough that your rug can fully submerge in water. Use phosphate-free, environmentally friendly soap whenever possible. Try Nixwax Rug Wash, Horseware Blanket Wash, or Leather Therapy Blanket Wash. Soak your rug in the bin for 30 minutes or more. Push your rug down into the water with your hands. Now, use the tip of a clean broom handle to press it down into the water repeatedly to expose the entire surface to water. Afterward, let it sit and soak for about 30 minutes. Insulate the bin with bubble wrap, feed bags, or other rugs to keep it hotter for longer. Spread the rug onto the floor and scrub it with a stiff-bristled brush. Find a flat, clean surface and lay your rug across it. Now, use a brush to scrub the outer layer in single, straight-line motions from the top of the rug to the bottom. Always press down on the brush at the beginning of your scrubbing motion and follow straight through to the end to clean the surface and remove water. Swap your brush with a broom if you'd like. Remove excess dirt from the rug with a stiff-bristled brush. Start by laying the rug over a fence. Now, bang it with the back of your brush to remove dirt and grass. Afterward, use the bristles of the brush to remove any remaining dirt. Be sure to turn the rug over and brush the underside to get rid of the worst of the sweat and hair. Take off any removable straps and close all Velcro straps before brushing your rug. Try brushing your rug every 3 to 4 days to make washing easier. Place your blanket into a mesh washing bag to contain the straps. Purchase a mesh washing bag from big-box stores or online suppliers. Make sure it's large enough to cover the entire surface of the rug. Make any remaining straps as short as possible and cover them with a sock to protect the washing machine. You can also take off removable straps and put them in a pillowcase to wash them separately. Head to a commercial laundromat that specializes in horse laundry to wash your rug. If you want to use your own, be aware that washing horse rugs in a standard washing machine may invalidate the machine's warranty. Machine-wash your blanket on "Delicate" and "Cold" at the laundromat. Double-check manufacturer's instructions to make sure you're cleaning it properly. Start by putting your rug into the washer and adding a mild soap. Afterward, set your washer—most horse rugs are cleaned on a "Delicate" and "Cold" cycle to minimize stretching and agitation. If your rug doesn't fit, head to a commercial laundromat and use the same settings. On older machines, "Delicate" is replaced with "Knits Gentle." Add a small amount of disinfectant to kill any bacteria and reduce odors. Avoid using fabric conditioners or detergents. Air-dry your rug on a strong washing line or over a fence. Ideally, find a spot exposed to both sun and wind. You can also hang your rug with its breast straps fastened over a pole so long as the pole is high enough to keep the rug off the floor. If necessary, hang your rug inside or under your stable's overhang. Don't dry clean or tumble dry your blanket or you might damage it. Avoid drying your rug in the tack room, as the high amount of moisture in the air can rot its leather. Fold your horse rug before storing it. Start by checking that the leg straps are connected and not hanging loose. Now, hold the rug up in front of you and fold it in the middle so that the chest and tail section align. Tuck the belly straps into the fold and fold the neck side of the rug to the center. Afterward, fold the belly side into the center. Hang the blanket with the belly side facing outward if you need to put it somewhere before storing it. Store your rug in a cool, dark place when you don't need it. For the best results, store it in a container that protects it from moisture, dust, or rodents—a plastic tub with a locking lid is a great option. Afterward, put the container in a garage or other location free from humidity and hot temperatures. Make sure that your rug is completely air-dried before storing it. Purchase a waterproofing product for your horse rug. Head to a pet store, outdoor store, or camping store and look for products that can waterproof your rug. Be sure to check the material of your rug and make sure your product is intended for it. Select either a spray or wash-on product. Apply the waterproofing product to your horse rug. Be sure to refer to the manufacturer's instructions and follow the directions exactly. For spray-in products, move the bottle in side-to-side motions, taking care to apply the product evenly across the entire surface of the rug. If you're using a wash-in product, put your horse rug into a large bin of hot water, submerge it, and let it soak it into the material for the recommended amount of time. Don't waterproof your blanket unless it is completely clean and dry. Always apply sprays outside. Wear disposable gloves when applying your waterproofing product. Let your horse rug dry for 24 hours between coats. After applying a waterproofing coat, be sure to give the rug enough time for it to set. Read the manufacturer's instructions for drying time and the recommended number of coats. Select a drying location that is cool, dry, and slightly windy. You can also dry your rug under or inside your stable's overhang. In some cases, the waterproofing product must dry away from sunlight. Apply another waterproofing coat if your blanket absorbs water. Throw 1 cup (240 mL) of water onto your blanket and watch it for 1 to 2 minutes—if it stays in beads, your blanket doesn't need another coat. But if it soaks in, it needs another coat. Give your blanket time to dry before applying another waterproofing coat.	Fill a large bin with hot water and non-biological, non-detergent soap. Soak your rug in the bin for 30 minutes or more. Spread the rug onto the floor and scrub it with a stiff-bristled brush. Remove excess dirt from the rug with a stiff-bristled brush. Place your blanket into a mesh washing bag to contain the straps. Machine-wash your blanket on "Delicate" and "Cold" at the laundromat. Air-dry your rug on a strong washing line or over a fence. Fold your horse rug before storing it. Store your rug in a cool, dark place when you don't need it. Purchase a waterproofing product for your horse rug. Apply the waterproofing product to your horse rug. Let your horse rug dry for 24 hours between coats. Apply another waterproofing coat if your blanket absorbs water.
https://www.wikihow.com/Cook-Octopus	How to Cook Octopus	To cook octopus, start by cutting the tentacles off of the body using a sharp knife. Then, cut the head off of the middle piece of the octopus and discard the middle piece. Next, bring a large pot of water, vegetables, and herbs to a boil and add the tentacles and head. Let the octopus cook, covered, for 20-45 minutes or until it's tender. Once the octopus feels tender, strain it and serve on its own or with rice or salad.	Thaw the octopus. Frozen octopus can be thawed by sitting it in the refrigerator for roughly 24 hours. Frozen octopus actually has an advantage over fresh octopus because the freezing process helps tenderize the meat. If you are working with fresh octopus, tenderize it first by beating it with a meat tenderizer. Before cooking frozen octopus, however, it must be completely defrosted. Separate the tentacles from the body. Use a sharp kitchen knife to cleanly slice off each tentacle at its base. Note, however, that some recipes require you to cook the octopus whole before cutting it into pieces. Make sure that you read the instructions carefully for the recipe you plan to use before slicing up the octopus. With the octopus lying flat on your working surface, hold up one tentacle and saw it off at the base. Remove the other tentacles in the same manner. If you have kitchen shears, you can cut of the tentacles more easily with those than you can with a sharp knife. Cut the middle piece and the head. Separate the head from the middle piece and cut the head in half. The middle piece that connected the octopus tentacles to the head is hard and unpleasant, so you can discard it. The head, however, should be cooked alongside the tentacles. Remove the beak and ink sac, if necessary. When working with frozen octopus, this step is not usually needed, since most frozen octopus is sold with these pieces already removed. Even if you work with fresh octopus, you can usually ask the fishmonger to clean the octopus for you before he wraps it up for you to take home. Once you halve the head or body of the octopus, the ink sac and innards should be visible. You can cut these away and remove them with little difficulty. The beak might still be attached to the hard middle section you discarded, in which case, no further action is needed. If the beak is attached to the body, however, you can usually push it out by squeezing the octopus gently. Once it is exposed, simply cut it out and throw it away. Fill a stockpot with water and aromatics. Add enough water to a large stockpot to fill it at least 2/3 high. Add your herbs and vegetables to the stockpot, as well. If you have ready made vegetable stock, you could use that instead of using the water and aromatic ingredients. The vegetables and herbs in this recipe primarily exist for the sake of flavoring the octopus. This recipe calls for onion, carrot, leek, bay leaves, parsley, thyme, and peppercorn, but you could change the vegetables and herbs to nearly any other set of aromatics you have available. Bring the stock to a boil. Heat the stockpot over high heat until a rolling boil develops. Let boil for 5 minutes or so. By letting the herbs and vegetables boil in the water before you add the octopus, you help draw the flavor of these aromatics into the water, creating the beginnings of a vegetable stock. Add the octopus. Add all the tentacles and body pieces to the boiling water. The water will slow after you add the octopus, so let it come to a rapid boil again before pressing forward. This recipe works best when the octopus has already been cut into separate tentacles and head pieces. Do not, however, cut the octopus further into smaller chunks. The octopus can still cook if cut smaller, but it is not recommended for aesthetic reasons. Cover and cook until tender. This could take anywhere from 20 to 45 minutes. Test the meat with a fork after 5 minutes. It will not be ready yet, but doing so will give you an idea of how it feels when it is still too tough. Pierce the meat again after 15 minutes and note the difference in tenderness. When ready, the meat of the octopus should practically be falling off the fork as you lift it out of the broth. Remove the octopus and serve. Boiled octopus is generally cut into slices and served with rice or in salad, but you can also enjoy it on its own. You can strain and reserve the water, if desired, for use as seafood stock. Preheat the oven to 250 degrees Fahrenheit (130 degrees Celsius). Prepare a large rimmed baking sheet by lining it with aluminum foil. The oven rack should also be switched to the lower-middle position so that the octopus has plenty of space inside the oven. The majority of the actual cooking process will be done in the oven. Grilling is a great way to add extra flavor to the octopus, but the cooking method is too fast and will not create a tender enough octopus when used alone. Place the octopus on the baking sheet. Sprinkle it with salt and cover it with foil. Create a loose seal by gently crimping the edge of the top sheet of foil to the rim of the baking sheet. Cook the octopus until tender. This could take up to 2 hours. Let cool when done. The meat should feel very tender when pierced with a small paring knife or fork. As the octopus cools, remove the foil cover so that it cools faster. At this point, you can also cover and refrigerate the octopus for two days or so. Discard any liquid that seeped out as the octopus cooked, however. Preheat a grill. Brush the grill rack lightly with 1 Tbsp (15 ml) of olive oil and preheat the grill for about 10 minutes to a high temperature. For a gas grill, turn all the burners onto high and let preheat fully for 10 minutes. For a charcoal grill, spread out a thick layer of charcoal on the bottom of the grill and let them burn down until white ash forms along the surface of the briquettes. Coat the octopus with oil. After coating the pieces with olive oil, sprinkle them with salt and pepper, to taste. The oil will give the exterior a better glow and a better crunch. It also helps the salt and pepper cling to the meat. Char the octopus on the grill. Place the octopus pieces on the grill and cook for roughly 4 to 5 minutes, or until spotted with brown. After placing the pieces on your grill rack, close the grill and cook the pieces covered. You should only turn the pieces once, and do so during the middle of the cooking process. Serve with olive oil, lemon juice, and parsley. When grilled, octopus can be enjoyed on its own or sliced and added to other dishes. If you plan to serve it as is, though, the extra oil, fresh lemon juice, and parsley can make it an even more flavorful dish. Heat the water and vinegar. Combine the two ingredients in a large stockpot and bring them to a boil over high heat. You can add the aromatic ingredients before the vinegar water reaches a boil, but boiling the water before you add these other ingredients can help keep the boiling point high, thereby making the water boil faster. Add the other aromatic ingredients. Halve the lemon and squeeze the juice into the water before adding both halves to the water, as well. Also add the peppercorns, bay leaves, and salt. Turn the heat down to medium and let the aromatics simmer for 10 minutes. Boiling these ingredients first will create a flavorful liquid for your octopus to cook in. Scar the octopus. Use tongs to dunk a whole, uncut octopus into the simmering water three times, letting it stay beneath the water for 5 seconds each time. You could also wear thick rubber gloves and hold onto the octopus by the head with your hands as you scar it. This method is best suited for a whole octopus. You will not be able to scar a cut-up octopus, since the purpose of this method is to cause the tentacles to curl up as they are rapidly dunked into the hot water. Poach the octopus. Drop it into the water and turn the temperature to medium-high, or until the water reaches a light boil. Let cook for 30 minutes, or until otherwise tender. When tender enough to enjoy, the octopus should be tender enough to pierce with a fork. Cool slightly and serve. Let the octopus cool for a few minutes, just until it becomes cool enough to touch, and enjoy. You could also cover the octopus and save it in the refrigerate up to 8 hours.	Thaw the octopus. Separate the tentacles from the body. Cut the middle piece and the head. Remove the beak and ink sac, if necessary. Fill a stockpot with water and aromatics. Bring the stock to a boil. Add the octopus. Cover and cook until tender. Remove the octopus and serve. Preheat the oven to 250 degrees Fahrenheit (130 degrees Celsius). Place the octopus on the baking sheet. Cook the octopus until tender. Preheat a grill. Coat the octopus with oil. Char the octopus on the grill. Serve with olive oil, lemon juice, and parsley. Heat the water and vinegar. Add the other aromatic ingredients. Scar the octopus. Poach the octopus. Cool slightly and serve.
https://www.wikihow.com/Cite-an-Online-Article	How to Cite an Online Article	To cite an online article using APA style, start with the author's last name and first initial of their first name, followed by a period. Next, include the year of publication in parentheses and end with a period. Then, type out the full title in italics, end with a period, and follow that up with the publication name and volume number, if appropriate. Finally, close the citation with the direct URL.	Start your full citation with the name of the author. If the article has an identified author, provide their last name followed by a comma, then their first name. Place a period after the author's name. If no author is identified, start your citation with the title. Example: Bernstein, Mark. Provide the title of the article in quotation marks. Type the name of the article using title-case. Capitalize nouns, pronouns, verbs, and adverbs in the title. Place a period at the end of the title, inside the closing quotation marks. Example: Bernstein, Mark. "10 Tips on Writing the Living Web." List the name of the website where the article appears. The name of the website follows the title of the article. Use title-case, capitalizing nouns, pronouns, verbs, and adverbs. Put the name of the website in italics. Place a comma after the name of the website. Example: Bernstein, Mark. "10 Tips on Writing the Living Web." A List Apart: For People Who Make Websites , Include publication information for the article and the website. Following the name of the website, list the name of the publisher or sponsoring organization if it is not included in the name of the website. Place a comma, then type the date the article was published in day-month-year format. Place a comma after the date. Example: Bernstein, Mark. "10 Tips on Writing the Living Web." A List Apart: For People Who Make Websites , 16 Aug. 2002, Copy the direct URL (or permalink) for the article. Use the full URL, without the "https://." If the article was found in a database and has a digital object identifier (DOI), use that instead of the URL. Place a period at the end of the URL. Example: Bernstein, Mark. "10 Tips on Writing the Living Web." A List Apart: For People Who Make Websites , 16 Aug. 2002, alistapart.com/article/writeliving. Close your full citation with the date you accessed the article. Even though an access date isn't specifically required with MLA format, this information is recommended. Websites can be updated, and the information in the article or the location of the article on the website may change. Type the word "Accessed," then provide the date in day-month-year format. Example: Bernstein, Mark. "10 Tips on Writing the Living Web." A List Apart: For People Who Make Websites , 16 Aug. 2002, alistapart.com/article/writeliving. Accessed 4 May 2009. Use the first item in your full citation for in-text citations. A basic MLA in-text citation includes the author's last name and the page on which the information quoted or paraphrased appears, enclosed in parentheses. If the article doesn't have page numbers, simply use the author's last name. Example: (Bernstein). Start your full citation with the author of the article. An APA citation lists the last name of the author, followed by a comma, then the author's first initial. For some online articles, the author may be the group or agency that publishes the website, rather than a specific individual. Place a period after the name of the author. Example: American Nurses Association. Include the date of publication in parentheses. If the article lists a specific date it was published, type the year in parentheses after the name of the author. If more than one date is listed, use the most recent date on which the content of the article was changed or updated. Place a period after the closing parentheses mark. Example: American Nurses Association. (2015). Provide the title of the article in italics. Type a space after the period following the year of publication, then type the title of the article in sentence-case. Capitalize only the first word and any proper nouns. If the article has a subtitle, place a colon after the title and then type the subtitle, also in sentence-case. Include the document type, if available, in square brackets after the title. Place a period at the end. Example: American Nurses Association. (2015). Academic progression to meet the needs of the registered nurse, the health care consumer, and the U.S. health care system [Position statement]. Close with a direct URL (or permalink) where the article appears. Use the phrase "Retrieved from," and then include the full URL for the article. In APA style, URLs are not followed by a period. This is the end of your full citation. Example: American Nurses Association. (2015). Academic progression to meet the needs of the registered nurse, the health care consumer, and the U.S. health care system [Position statement]. http://nursingworld.org/MainMenuCategories/Policy-Advocacy/Positions-and-Resolutions/ANAPositionStatements/Position-Statements-Alphabetically/Academic-Progression-to-Meet-Needs-of-RN.html Use the author's last name and date of publication for in-text citations. After you paraphrase or quote information from the source in your paper, provide the last name of the author and the year the article was published in parentheses. Separate these elements with a comma. Example: (American Nurses Association, 2015). If you have multiple articles with the same author and year of publication, place a lower-case letter after the year to distinguish them in your in-text citations. Make sure the same lower-case letter is reflected in your reference list. Begin your citation with the author's name. If the article has an individual author, type their last name first, followed by a comma, then their first name. Some online articles have a group or organizational author. Type this name exactly as it appears on the website. Place a period after the author's name. Individual author example: Nunley, Kathie. Organizational author example: United Nations Platform for Action Committee. Provide the title of the article in quotation marks. Following the name of the author, type the title of the article using title-case. Capitalize nouns, pronouns, verbs, and adverbs. Place a period at the end of the title, inside the closing quotation marks. Individual author example: Nunley, Kathie. "The Caffeine Craze." Organizational author example: United Nations Platform for Action Committee. "Globalization and Clothes." Include the name of the website or publisher in italics. After the name of the article, provide the name of the website or the organization that publishes the website. Use title-case, capitalizing all nouns, pronouns, verbs, and adverbs. Place a period at the end of the name. Individual author example: Nunley, Kathie. "The Caffeine Craze." Layered Curriculum. Organizational author example: United Nations Platform for Action Committee. "Globalization and Clothes." Women and the Economy. Note the date you accessed the article, or the date it was published. If there is a date of publication for the article, use the most recent date listed. If the article was modified, include the phrase "last modified" before the date. If there is no publication date, use the date you accessed the article after the word "accessed." Use month-day-year format for the date, and place a period at the end. Individual author example: Nunley, Kathie. "The Caffeine Craze." Layered Curriculum. Accessed July 28, 2018. Organizational author example: United Nations Platform for Action Committee. "Globalization and Clothes." Women and the Economy. Last modified March 2011. Copy the full URL of the article. Close your citation with a full direct URL or permalink for the article. If there is no direct URL, use the URL of the home page of the website. Place a period at the end of the URL to end your citation. Individual author example: Nunley, Kathie. "The Caffeine Craze." Layered Curriculum. Accessed July 28, 2018. http://help4teachers.com/caffeine.htm. Organizational author example: United Nations Platform for Action Committee. "Globalization and Clothes." Women and the Economy. Last modified March 2011. http://unpac.ca/economy/g_clothes.html. Alter the punctuation for footnotes in text. In Chicago-style footnotes, include the same information you included in your bibliography. There are some differences from the bibliography entry, however. Parts of the citation are separated with commas in footnotes, instead of periods. The names of individual authors are listed in first name-last name format. Individual author example: Kathie Nunley, "The Caffeine Craze," Layered Curriculum , accessed July 28, 2018, http://help4teachers.com/caffeine.htm. Organizational author example: United Nations Platform for Action Committee, "Globalization and Clothes," Women and the Economy , last modified March 2011, http://unpac.ca/economy/g_clothes.html.	Start your full citation with the name of the author. Provide the title of the article in quotation marks. List the name of the website where the article appears. Include publication information for the article and the website. Copy the direct URL (or permalink) for the article. Close your full citation with the date you accessed the article. Use the first item in your full citation for in-text citations. Start your full citation with the author of the article. Include the date of publication in parentheses. Provide the title of the article in italics. Close with a direct URL (or permalink) where the article appears. Use the author's last name and date of publication for in-text citations. Begin your citation with the author's name. Provide the title of the article in quotation marks. Include the name of the website or publisher in italics. Note the date you accessed the article, or the date it was published. Copy the full URL of the article. Alter the punctuation for footnotes in text.