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https://www.wikihow.com/Pick-Up-a-Woman | How to Pick Up a Woman | To pick up a woman, look for a woman who has glanced or smiled at you, or appears bored with her current company, which are all signs she's open to meeting someone new. Once you've found someone, smile at her as you approach and start a conversation with confidence by saying something like, “Mind if I join you?”. During your introduction, make sure to turn your body towards her and avoid distractions, like checking your phone, since you want to show that you're focused on her. You should also show that you're interested in getting to know her by asking questions about what she does and her opinions, such as what her hobbies are or what she thinks of the cocktails. If you feel things are going well, ask her something like “How about we go somewhere more private to talk?”. However, if she says “No” or rejects your advances, make sure to accept her wishes and back off. | Know when to approach. The first step to picking up a woman is finding the right woman. You should find a woman who looks ready to talk to someone new, whether it's because she's bored with her current company, or just because she's out and looking for some fun. Though you can't always tell if a woman wants some new company, the more open she is, the more likely you'll be to succeed. Here are some tell-tale signs that you should go up to her: Obviously, if she's checking you out. If she has looked over at you more than once, and has even smiled when you caught eyes, then she is checking you out. If her friends are all looking over at you and giggling, then she -- or at least one of her friends -- is checking you out. Get over there already. If she looks bored or annoyed with her company. Maybe she's yawning repeatedly when talking to a needy girlfriend, or she keeps rolling her eyes at the group of loud bros she showed up with. Come on, knight in shining armor -- it's your chance to gallop on over and save her from her company. If you read the situation correctly, then she'll appreciate the change of pace. Don't approach if she's on a date, unless it's obviously not going well. If she's having an intense lip-locking session with her man, steer clear. But if she's on what looks like a first date and she looks absolutely bored or the guy she's with is spending more time checking his phone, you can approach her when the guy steps out if you're feeling bold. Don't approach if she's having an intense catch-up session with her girlfriend. If she's in a big group of women, that's one thing, but if it's her and another friend, and they are talking quickly and intensely and they haven't scanned in crowd in over an hour, she's probably getting some much-needed catch up time with a friend. Approach her with confidence. Once you've found your target, you need to show her that you're confident about who you are, that you love what you do, and that you'd love to get to know her, but your life won't be over if she rejects you. Coming across as desperate or approval-seeking can be a big turnoff. Remember that most women will know if they want to go home with you within the first fifteen minutes of the conversation, so make your time with the girl count. Here's how to do it: Make eye contact. First, make eye contact with her from across the room. Then, make sure to lock eyes with the woman when you come up to her. You don't have to be creepy about it, but you should show that you're comfortable enough with the situation to look into her eyes instead of staring at the floor or your feet. Smile. Smiling will show that you're cool with the situation, and that you're not nervous. Remember: you're happy with who you are, so even if she rejects you flat out, you'll walk out with your head high. Don't slouch and don't cross your arms over your chest. Keep your body open -- anything can happen. Give her all of your attention. Without getting too close, turn your body toward her, and avoid any distractions, like checking your phone every five seconds -- or at all. Part of looking confident is dressing well. You don't have to wear something expensive, but just put on a flattering outfit that fits well, and look like you've showered earlier that day. Have a killer opening. Once you've come up to the girl, you have to make sure you say and do the right thing so you hook her interest. If you start off on the wrong foot, it may be hard to recover, so you should make a good impression as soon as you can. Here's how to do it: Relax. If you're not relaxed when you join her, she'll know it in a second and will be turned off. Remind yourself that the worst thing that can happen is that she rejects you. Can you survive that? Don't use a pick up line. Unless you think she has a really silly sense of humor, avoid any common pick up lines like, "You must be tired, because you've been running through my mind all night." Women won't appreciate your lack of originality. Make it clear that you're hitting on her. If you're indirect with your approach, you might come across as someone who's looking for friendship, rather than a date. To avoid any confusion, express your interest right away. For instance, you might say, "Would you like to come sit with me? I'd love to buy you a drink." Introduce yourself. Tell her your name, and if you want to be cute and formal, you can even shake her hand. Make her feel like the most amazing woman in the world. Let's face it. People want to feel special. Don't feed her corny lines about how hot she is. Instead, let her know that you think she's a unique chick and do in an authentic way. Here's how to do it: Ask her questions about herself. Don't pry or get personal. Just ask her a few questions about herself, like what she loves to do, if she likes her neighborhood, or even her favorite sports teams or TV shows. You don't want to walk away and have the girl think, "Wow, he doesn't know one thing about me. He obviously just wanted to talk to me because he thought I was hot." Ask her opinion on things. Show that her opinion matters. Just ask her some light-hearted questions about what she thinks of the cocktails at the bar you're at, or even if she likes your new shoes. Don't be afraid to compliment her even if you think she's heard it all before. If she's beautiful, interesting, or has a great sense of humor, tell her. If you're casual and honest about it, you won't overwhelm her. Fascinate her. The key to picking up a woman is not only making her enjoy talking to you, but to make her think, "Hey, this is awesome -- I want more of this." To help her see how great you are, spend some time talking about yourself. Then, you can use whatever you're talking about as a way to ask creative questions to learn more about her, as well. Show her what makes you special. Without showing off, tell her at least two or three things that will make her want to get to know you. Did you teach yourself Japanese or spend a year on a motorcycle in Rio? Definitely make a point to mention that. Find some common bonds. Find something you have in common, whether it's your love for college basketball or Mexican food, that you can talk about. Don't make her think, "I love talking to this guy, but I just don't think it'll go anywhere because we don't have anything in common." Tell her something interesting. Show her that you're a guy who reads the paper and knows what's going on in the world. Without being boring, tell her a random fact that caught your eye recently. Be yourself -- to a point. This means that you should show her who you really are instead of putting up a phony front, but that you should also tone down the more unique parts of your personality until she gets to know you better, or she may be thrown off. Here's how to do it: Don't be a poser. Don't act like you're this hot shot who gets a lot of women. Just be a cool guy who wants to get to know her. Don't talk about all the other girls in your life, or she'll think, then why is he talking to me? Show her who you are. Tell her a bit about your interests, what you do on the weekends, or mention that awesome trip you took to Tahoe with your buddies. The girl should have a sense of who you are besides that guy who is hitting on her. Remember that you're not with your bros. Though she can get to know you for real later, hold off on the crass jokes, or the stories that might make you come off in an unflattering light. Charm her with your sense of humor. Women love guys who can make them laugh, especially if they can do it without trying too hard. You should show her that you're funny and that she'll have a good time if she's with you. Don't make her think you're trying so hard to make her laugh that she just feels sorry for you. Here's how to do it: Keep up some witty banter. If she says something funny, don't just say, "That's so funny" and laugh without responding. Instead, fire back something equally funny to show you can keep up. Tease her gently. Women love if you tease them if you do it the right way. Just poke fun at something she says, or tease her about her unique laugh. This will develop your relationship on a more playful level. Make fun of yourself. Don't be self-deprecating, but show that you don't take yourself too seriously and that you're able to laugh at yourself. Know when you are not welcome. Part of making a graceful exit is knowing when you are not wanted. This could be for a variety of reasons. Maybe the girl's just not digging you. That's okay. Maybe she has a boyfriend and doesn't want to waste your time. Maybe she just wants to spend time with her girlfriends. Whatever the reason, once you get the sense it's time to leave, get going. If the conversation lags completely and the girl is checking her phone or looking around constantly, it's time to leave. If her friends start rolling their eyes at you or ignoring you, it's time to leave. Once you know it's time to go, don't embarrass yourself further by saying, "Well, it looks like you're just not interested" or "Sorry to bother you." Just say, "Hey, it was great talking to you. I'll see you around later." Walk out with a smile on your face, even if you're disappointed. But if she's laughing a lot, maintaining eye contact, playing with her hair, and just generally looking like she's having a great time talking to you and wants more, it's time to step it up. If it's going well, take it to the next level. If you've really clicked during the conversation, and the girl is clearly into you, then it's time to kick it up a notch and see where this thing goes. You're trying to pick up the woman, right? So what are you waiting for? If you're at a bar or nightclub and things are wrapping up, you can say, "How about we go somewhere more private to talk?" Or, "What do you say we get out of here?" If you know the girl wants to keep hanging out but you don't want to turn her off by trying to isolate her yet, ask her if she and her friends want to go to a quieter bar down the street, or invite her out to an after party with your friends. Remember, she just met you, and even if she likes you, she may not want to get down on the first night. If you're not ready to ask her to come home with you, get her number. Don't be nervous. Just make it clear that you're really asking her out. Say, "Hey, this has been a great conversation, and I'd love to talk to you more over drinks or dinner. Can I get your number to set that up?" | Know when to approach. Approach her with confidence. Have a killer opening. Make her feel like the most amazing woman in the world. Fascinate her. Be yourself -- to a point. Charm her with your sense of humor. Know when you are not welcome. If it's going well, take it to the next level. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Live-Without-Social-Media | How to Live Without Social Media | To live without social media, deactivate your accounts and delete any social media apps from your smartphone or tablet, since this will remove the temptation to check them. If you use social media on your computer, use a browser extension like StayFocusd to block social media websites. Additionally, since you'll have more free time when you stop using social media, you should use it to immerse yourself into a new hobby like writing or learning to play an instrument. When you're with your family and friends, ask them to use social media when they're not spending time with you, since you don't want to be lured back. | Deactivate your social media accounts. You may find it easier to stop using social media if you deactivate or get rid of your accounts altogether. Most social media sites allow you to deactivate your account rather than delete it completely in case you want to come back. Delete an Instagram Account Delete a Twitter Account Deactivate a Facebook Account Delete a YouTube Account Delete a LinkedIn Account Remove social media apps from your tablet or smartphone. Every time you go onto your phone and see the Facebook app, you risk temptation. Deleting these apps makes it easier to stay off social media and focus on what matters most to you. Block social media websites in your browser. If you're finding it hard to avoid clicking to social media websites, download a browser extension like StayFocusd to block the sites. If this seems like an extreme step, only go halfway. Block these sites only on your primary web browser, so you can still access them elsewhere. If you prefer, you can choose to limit your time spent on certain websites rather than block them completely. If you need to, you can also block these sites on your iPhone. Change your routines to avoid social media. Some people check their social media accounts as soon as they wake up in the morning, during breaks at work or school and while they are falling asleep. Think about when you tend to look at social media, and then find another activity to fill that time. While you eat meals, try to focus on the food. Think about the taste and texture. If you're eating with others, talk to them instead of looking at your phone. When you feel like having a conversation with someone, do it in person. If nobody is around, try going to a café or other busy location where people may be available to chat. Keep your phone far away from you at night. Not only will this prevent you from using social media, you may fall asleep easier. Take out a sheet of paper and a pen. If you think about it, there are both positive and negative things about social media. If social media didn't have its benefits, you wouldn't spend so much time with it! To live happily without social media, you'll have to replace the positive things about it with positive alternatives. Start by making a few lists. Write a list of good things about using social media. What is it that you like about social media? Use concrete examples, like: “I can keep in touch with my friends who live far away.” “I can find out about things happening in my area.” “I'm reminded of my friends' birthdays.” List ways to do those things without social media. Now that you have a list of social media positives, figure out how to accomplish those tasks (or get those feelings) without being tethered to a computer or cell phone. For example: “I will send letters to and plan to visit my faraway friends.” “I will find events in the newspaper or by asking friends what they are doing.” “I will make a list of birthdays and pin it to my wall.” Make a list of the things you don’t like about using social media. Now you'll make a list of concrete things that bother you about social media. Consider things you haven't done or finished because of the time you spend on social media. Examples: “I use social media instead of [something you love to do].” “I don't get enough sleep because of how I use social media.” “I feel insecure when I look at social media.” List ways to improve the negatives by leaving social media. How will those negative things in your life turn into positives if you leave social media? “I will have more time to do [something you love to do].” “I will be able to fall asleep earlier if I'm not looking at social media.” “I will feel better about myself if I don't see things that make me feel insecure on social media.” Throw yourself into a new hobby. In addition to getting really good at something, devoting time to a new hobby will help you fill the idle time you once filled with social media. Having a hobby will also boost your creativity and keep your brain sharp. If you're having trouble thinking of a new hobby, take a look at some of these ideas: Art: comics illustration, film-making, jewelry-making, making your own clothes , macramé, decoupage , interior design, makeup. Music: analog synthesizers , choir, making guitar pedals, becoming a DJ. Writing: lyric poetry, amateur journalism, short stories, personal memoirs. Exercise: martial arts, swimming, dancing, aerial yoga. Helping others: raising money for a good cause , helping a non-native speaker learn your language, training pets, sharing meals with people experiencing poverty. Find a penpal. If part of what you like about social media is how easy it is to meet people, seek a penpal instead. When looking for a penpal , think about things that would keep you interested in writing to someone new. You'll likely find that getting interesting things in your mailbox is more exciting than any social media notification. Finding a penpal in another country is a fun way to learn about other places. In addition to writing letters, you can also send and receive mix CDs of your favorite music, artwork, stickers, photos, and books. Stay on top of current events. Because the majority of people get their news on social media, you may be surprised to learn that there are other ways to stay connected to current events. Most areas still print newspapers, most of which you can also find on the web. News radio, podcasts, and television news networks may even expose you to a wider variety of information than what's supplied by your social networks. Ask your friends for their contact information. Studies show that while social media keeps us connected to others online, it decreases the quality of our off-line relationships. You can strengthen these relationships by gathering phone numbers and addresses from people you care about. Write this information down in an address book or personal organizer and keep it handy. It's also a good idea to ask them how they like to be contacted. Some people may be more open to talking on the phone than others. People who are less likely to talk on the phone or make in-person plans may prefer communicating via email. Tell your friends and family to put away their phones. When you're spending quality time with someone, ask them to save social media and texting for later. It probably doesn't feel good to have to compete with social media for your friends' attention. Also, hearing about what's happening on Facebook may entice you to return before you're ready. Make plans to do things with other people. Having positive experiences and interactions with friends will help you stay both healthy and happy. When you have fun social events on the horizon, you'll feel less isolated. Find out which bands or artists are visiting your town, and then plan to see the event with friends. Research good cafes or restaurants in your area and ask a friend to meet you for a meal. Plan a camping trip with a group of people. Try to choose a location where the Internet is inaccessible! Sign up for an activity that requires you and a friend to do something at a regularly-scheduled time. For example, weekly yoga classes, volunteer opportunities, or writing groups. Start a project with a group of people, such as a band, sports team, or foreign language study group. Keep busy. If you often check social media when you're bored, you'll need to fill your time with things that keep your mind focused. You clean, read, study, catch up on homework, or go out. Not only will you stay on top of things like coursework or the cleaning, but it may also reduce your social media temptations. Become a regular at a café or regular event. Hanging out at the same places often will undoubtedly introduce you to people who share similar interests. When you go to these events, appear relaxed, friendly, and approachable to encourage conversation. Go to the same open mic event every month, and maybe even participate! Find an art gallery you like and go to their opening every month. Visit the same café regularly so people start to recognize you. Join a group for people who share the same interest. You can use a site like Meetup.com to make new friends who like to hang out in-person. You may find a group that shares a certain identity (e.g., heritage, occupation, orientation) or common interest (e.g., oil painting, beat-making, women's basketball) and forget all about social media. Ask for support. If you find yourself unable to stay off social media, reach out to your friends and family. Let them know why you want to stop using social media , and ask them to help you fill your time. Internet addiction can interfere with life to the point of becoming a serious addiction. If you're feeling shame and having trouble steering clear of social media, there are non-judgmental therapists and help groups who can help you defeat your addiction. | Deactivate your social media accounts. Remove social media apps from your tablet or smartphone. Block social media websites in your browser. Change your routines to avoid social media. Take out a sheet of paper and a pen. Write a list of good things about using social media. List ways to do those things without social media. Make a list of the things you don’t like about using social media. List ways to improve the negatives by leaving social media. Throw yourself into a new hobby. Find a penpal. Stay on top of current events. Ask your friends for their contact information. Tell your friends and family to put away their phones. Make plans to do things with other people. Keep busy. Become a regular at a café or regular event. Join a group for people who share the same interest. Ask for support. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Know-if-You-Have-Anxiety | How to Know if You Have Anxiety | If you think you might have anxiety, ask yourself if you ever experience feelings of dread and tension that don't seem to go away, which is a major symptom of anxiety. You should also consider whether you ever disconnect from other people and from your emotions when something overwhelms you, since this is another common symptom of anxiety. Try to recognize if you avoid particular situations that cause you too much stress. For example, if you find yourself avoiding school work, professional responsibilities, or social interactions because you're afraid of being overwhelmed, you might have anxiety issues. If you're struggling with anxiety, talk to a doctor, psychiatrist, or counselor, who can help you work through some of your negative feelings. | Watch for episodes of excessive or intense worry. Perhaps the most characteristic feature of anxiety is a long-lasting or intense feeling of dread and tension. Sufferers of anxiety often find themselves worrying constantly, even when they have nothing in particular to worry about. Worrying is often accompanied by physical tension and jitteriness, and is characterized by a pessimistic attitude, and an anticipation of the worst outcome in the situation causing the worry. Identify feelings of blankness or being unreal. One of the most bizarre feelings associated with excessive anxiety is a feeling of detachment, or unreality, especially in situations where the anxiety sufferer is overwhelmed by the source of their anxiety. During such episodes, you feel utterly disconnected from others, and from the world around you, and you may find yourself unmotivated to do much of anything. For example, feeling as if your emotions and motivations have been turned "off", as if by the flip of a switch, following an episode of intense worry or stress may be a sign that you are experiencing excessive anxiety. Recognize episodes of fear or panic. The fear or panic may be associated with a real situation from your life, or may simply manifest as a general fear, such as of death, or loss of control. Alternatively, the fear may have no source you can identify. This fear may prove difficult to control, and difficult for others to comfort, which makes it one of the most debilitating symptoms of anxiety. If difficult or stressful situations — be they social, financial, or work-related, cause you to feel overwhelmed and incapable of dealing with your problems — you may be experiencing the effects of excessive anxiety. It is normal to sometimes be troubled by thoughts of death and dying, either your own or that of someone close to you, but if these thoughts begin occurring with such frequency or intensity that they distract your from important activities or prevent you from sleeping they may be a sign that you are experiencing an unhealthy amount of anxiety. Pay attention to your mood. The symptoms of anxiety can be very difficult to cope with, especially if they are frequent or severe. The resulting strain can make it difficult to maintain a calm or happy mood, which can strain work, school and personal relationships, and making it a challenge to enjoy a normal social life. Frequent anxiety sufferers often find themselves feeling irritable and display difficulty concentrating or participating in social interactions. Be attentive to avoidance behaviors. Regular sufferers of anxiety attacks will often find themselves fearful of situations which have, in the past, been triggers for stress or anxiety. If you find it very difficult to enter into situations which you associate with stress, or you often find yourself compelled to take significant steps to avoid such situations, this may indicate that you are experiencing an unhealthy level of anxiety. For example, if you find yourself often procrastinating school work, professional responsibilities, or social interactions because you fear being overwhelmed by the stress caused by these activities, you may be experiencing the effects of excessive anxiety. Be wary of drug and alcohol abuse. Self-medication, or use of unprescribed drugs and alcohol to treat the symptoms of illness, is common among chronic sufferers of anxiety. You should be honest with yourself regarding the role that drugs or alcohol play in your own relationship with anxiety. If you feel that your use of substances is out of your control, and is detrimental to you, it's important that you reach out to friends, loved ones, or medical professionals to help you deal with the problem before it impacts your health. Pay attention to unexplained discomfort and pain. Nausea, headaches, dizziness, and muscle soreness are all common symptoms of anxiety. If you regularly experience such discomfort, this may be a sign that you are experiencing excessive anxiety, especially if standard methods for relieving the discomfort are ineffective. Notice signs of physical tension. The body often manifests psychological strain physically, through symptoms like muscle tension, rapid heartbeat and breathing, trembling, and shortness of breath. Often experiencing such physical tension, especially in the absence of a non-psychological cause, such as vigorous exercise, may be a sign of anxiety. Fidgeting behaviors, such as tapping your hands and feet, grinding your teeth, or clenching your jaw may also be signs of anxiety-related physical tension. Be mindful of changes in your sleep patterns. Anxiety often has a very noticeable effect on how well you sleep, how much sleep you get, and how energized and alert you feel after sleeping. Oversleeping and insomnia (a sustained problem getting to sleep and staying asleep) are both common anxiety symptoms. Oversleeping intentionally to escape worry, or being kept from sleep by an overly active, worrying mind are both classic problems for sufferers of anxiety. Monitor your digestion. Your digestive system is very sensitive to changes in your physiology, including psychological changes like experiencing anxiety. Anxiety is often associated with frequent feelings of nausea, as well as frequent urination or diarrhea. Many anxiety sufferers experience a frequent or even constant queasy feeling, much like the pit-in-your-stomach sensation associated with a stressful realization. Be aware of fluctuating appetite and weight. Anxiety often affects what, and how much, you want to eat. If you notice that you are often not hungry, or simply not motivated to eat, this may be a sign of anxiety. Conversely, frequent overeating, especially as a distraction from worry, can also be a manifestation of anxiety. Watch for episodes of snowballing or overwhelming worry. For sufferers of anxiety attacks, the feelings of worry and dread associated with anxiety can "snowball", becoming so intense that they overwhelm everything else, and leave the sufferer stunned, panicking, and unable to process what is going on. These episodes are often brought on by high-stress events or situations, are extremely unpleasant and bewildering, and can last from a few minutes, to hours or even entire days. Anxiety attack sufferers often experience a "deer-in-the-headlights" feeling of being stunned and unable to decide how to respond to a stressful situation. Watch for intense physical tension or discomfort. Sufferers of anxiety attacks often experience sharp drops or increases in body temperature (hot or cold flashes), as well as feelings of intense shortness of breath or rapid, erratic heartbeat. Be mindful of obsessive thinking. Anxiety attacks are often accompanied by obsessive thoughts, which are intense, and unwanted thoughts associated with a problem, worry, or stressful situation. During an anxiety attack, these thoughts may seem to engulf the sufferer, making it difficult or impossible for them to focus on anything else. While these obsessive thoughts may be associated with a concrete problem in the sufferer's life, they can also be much more abstract. For instance, the obsession may be centered on a disturbing or stressful image or sound which becomes "stuck" in the sufferer's mind, preventing thought of anything else. Consult a medical professional. Anxiety attacks are painful, and often debilitating. The physical and emotional strain associated with regular, intense anxiety can also have long-term effects on your health. If you are struggling with anxiety, you should talk with a medical doctor, psychiatrist, or counselor about your symptoms, and possible treatments for anxiety. The simple act of asking for help from others can help alleviate your symptoms, and set you on a path for less-stressed living. | Watch for episodes of excessive or intense worry. Identify feelings of blankness or being unreal. Recognize episodes of fear or panic. Pay attention to your mood. Be attentive to avoidance behaviors. Be wary of drug and alcohol abuse. Pay attention to unexplained discomfort and pain. Notice signs of physical tension. Be mindful of changes in your sleep patterns. Monitor your digestion. Be aware of fluctuating appetite and weight. Watch for episodes of snowballing or overwhelming worry. Watch for intense physical tension or discomfort. Be mindful of obsessive thinking. Consult a medical professional. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Learn-Basic-Words-and-Phrases-in-Chinese | How to Learn Basic Words and Phrases in Chinese | To learn Chinese, immerse yourself in the language by watching Chinese films and cartoons. Alternatively, listen to Chinese podcasts or CDs while you're exercising, doing housework, or commuting to work. To improve your tone and pronunciation, look for a local Chinese conversation group, or find a native Chinese speaker to practice with by placing an ad on an online forum. | Learn some basic vocabulary. The first thing to do when learning a new language is to memorize some simple yet important words and start practicing with them as soon as possible. Although things like grammar and sentence structure are important, they mean nothing until you develop a basic vocabulary. Here's a short list to get you started: Hello = nǐhǎo, pronounced [nee hauw] With 2 third tones. Not "ho" or "how," but somewhere in the middle. Listen to a native speaker as a reference. Yes = shì, pronounced [sher]" But not as in "sure". ALWAYS listen to a native speaker, as it is difficult to understand how to pronounce these words without hearing them. No = bù shì, pronounced [boo sher] Goodbye = zài jiàn, pronounced [zai jee-ian] Morning = zǎoshàng, pronounced "[zauw-shaung-hauw]" Afternoon = xià wǔ. There is almost no clear way to describe the "x" in pinyin with English pronunciations. Look it up and listen to a native speaker say it. Contrary to popular misinformation, the "x" DOESN'T AT ALL sound like "sh"! Evening = wǎn shàng, pronounced [wang shaung] Head = tóu, pronounced [toe] with a 2nd tone that goes up. Feet = jiǎo, pronounced [jee-yau] Hands = shǒu, pronounced [show]. With a 3rd tone, this goes from neutral to lower to neutral. Beef = niú ròu, pronounced [nee-o row] but not with the soft "r"—instead, use a more defined "r". Chicken = jī, pronounced [jee] Egg = jī dàn, pronounced [jee dan]. "Dan" has a 4th tone, that goes down. It is slightly forceful sounding (but not too forceful sounding!). Literally, "chicken egg". When speaking of eggs in general, use this. Specify the egg type by using the animal's name and then dàn. Noodles = miantiao, pronounced [miàn tiáo] Always look up pronunciations of every word spoken by a native speaker. Most Mandarin pinyins just simply cannot be described perfectly with English sounds! Learn some basic phrases. Once you've built up a little vocabulary, you can start working on some basic phrases and expressions that will help you to navigate everyday conversations. Here's a few to get you started: How are you? = nǐ hǎo ma? pronounced [nee hau mah] (see above for pronunciations) I'm fine = wǒ hěn hǎo, pronounced [wuh hen hau] Thank you = xiè xiè. There is almost no clear way to describe the "x" in pinyin with English pronunciations. Look it up and listen to a native speaker say it. Contrary to popular misinformation, the "x" DOESN'T AT ALL sound like "sh"! The "ie" part sounds close to "yieh" You're welcome = bù yòng xiè, pronounced [boo yong xi-yeh] Sorry = duì bu qǐ, pronounced [dway boo qi]. Like with the Mandarin "x," a proper pronunciation described with English letters is almost impossible. I don't understand = wǒ bù dǒng, pronounced [wuh boo dong] What is your surname (family name)? = nín guì xìng, pronounced [neen gway xing] What's your name? = nǐ jiào shén me míng zì, pronounced [nee-jee-yow shen-ma ming zi]" My name is _____ = wǒ jiào _____, pronounced [wuh jee-yau] Learn the tones. Chinese is a tonal language, which means that the same word can mean different things depending on the tone used to express them (even if the spelling and pronunciation are the same). This can be difficult for English speakers to grasp, but learning the tones is essential if you want to speak Chinese properly. There are 4 major tones in Mandarin Chinese, as well as a neutral tone: The first tone is a high, flat tone. It is expressed in a relatively high voice, with no rising or dipping. Using the word "ma" as an example, the first tone is expressed in writing as "mā". The second tone is a rising tone. It starts at a lower level and gets progressively higher, like when you say "huh?" in English. The second tone is expressed in writing as "má". The third tone is a dipping tone. It starts at a medium level, then dips lower before rising again, like when you say the letter "B" or the word "horse" in English. The third tone is expressed in writing as "mǎ". The fourth tone is a falling tone. It starts at a medium level and gets progressively lower, like when you are giving a command (such as telling someone to "stop") in English. The fourth tone is expressed in writing as "mà". The fifth tone is a neutral tone. It does not rise or fall, like the first tone, but this tone is expressed in a flat voice. The fifth tone is expressed in writing as "ma". Work on your pronunciation. Once you have learned the correct pronunciation of the tones by listening to native speakers (YouTube is good for this) and practicing them yourself, you need to work on applying them to words. This is essential, as the same word can have a completely different meaning depending on which tone is used. For example, using the tone "mā" instead of "má" could be the difference between saying "I want cake" and "I want coke"—two completely different meanings. Therefore, when you're learning vocabulary, it is not enough to learn the pronunciation, you must also learn the correct tone. Otherwise you could use the word in the wrong context and be completely misunderstood. The best way to work on your pronunciation is to speak with a native Chinese speaker who can encourage you when you get it right and correct you when you're wrong. Work on grammar and sentence structure. It's a common misconception that Chinese is a "grammar-less" language. Chinese has quite a complex grammar system; it's just very different from that of English and other European languages. Luckily, when learning Chinese, you will not have to learn any complicated rules involving verb conjugations, agreement, gender, plural nouns, or tense. Chinese is a very analytic language, which makes it quite simple and straightforward in some respects. Another bonus is that Chinese uses a similar sentence structure to English—subject-verb-object—which makes translating back and forth between the two languages somewhat easier. For instance, the sentence "he likes cats" in English is translated as "tā (he) xǐ huan (likes) māo (cats)" in Chinese even when the pronouns change! On the other hand, Chinese has its own grammar structures which are very different from those used in English and can therefore be very difficult for the English speaker to grasp. These grammatical features include things like classifiers, topic-prominence, and preference for aspect. However, there's no point in worrying about these things until you've mastered basic Chinese. | Learn some basic vocabulary. Learn some basic phrases. Learn the tones. Work on your pronunciation. Work on grammar and sentence structure. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Create-a-Time-Capsule | How to Create a Time Capsule | To create a time capsule, start by finding a shoebox, bin, or old suitcase. Then, pack it with items that show what it's like to live today. For example, pack a recent newspaper or magazine, currency, fashionable clothes, photographs, or packaging from your favorite candies. You can also write a description of what it's like to live today so you can see how much the world has changed when you open the time capsule. For instance, write about current fads, attitudes, and hot topics of the day. When you've finished making your time capsule, you can store it inside to protect it from the elements, or you can bury it outside. If you choose to bury your time capsule, add a few gel bags to reduce moisture and stop your items decaying over the years. | Choose an audience for your time capsule. Think about who your time capsule is for. This will help you pick contents, a location for the capsule, and a container. Whether you plan to open the capsule yourself, you would rather have your grandchildren open it, or you want a stranger from the distant future to stumble upon it, you should be clear about your intent. If you are struggling to find an audience, think about what kind you would most like to open. Do you wish your grandparents had left you a time capsule filled with memorabilia and handwritten notes? Does the thought of opening a 150 year old capsule left by someone lost to time long ago thrill you? Make a list of possible objects to include for your audience. . Depending on your audience, you may have different priorities for your contents. You can always collect more objects for your time capsule than you end up putting in. Your only limits are space and the ability of your capsule contents to be safely stored. If the capsule is for yourself, focus on personal mementos of your life as it is right now. Things like a pair of earbuds you wore every day for 2 years, an old key, or a takeout menu from a favorite restaurant will bring memories back in just a few years. For a time capsule that you plan to pass down to your children or grandchildren, find things that will interest them about your life and your world. Both personal objects of significance to you and your family, like wedding invitations, and things that depict the state of the world, like technology, are good choices. If your capsule is for people in the far future to uncover long after you are gone, focus on the era you are in. Things that may seem to be of little value now may be fascinating to someone in 75 or 100 years. Put toys in the capsule for kids. If you are making the time capsule with children, or for future children, toys and simple games can be a way to excite kids about the experience. Of course, don't lock a child's favorite toy away for years and years, but a handful of toys from when they were younger can help them get interested. Toys can change over the years more than you might think, and for a child they can be fondly remembered years later. Pick out some current newspapers or magazines. For a more general audience, print media showing current events or trends is a good choice to carry into the future a sense of what it was like to be alive in your era. You can even cut out headlines or articles from the day the capsule will be put in its resting place. Be sure to keep the paper in plastic sleeves to ensure that it is preserved. Store journals, letters, and photographs for a personal touch. Whether or not the time capsule is for you and your family, many people find it rewarding to read messages between people from the past. Journals and photographs each provide a captivating look at another person's life, as well. These are especially vulnerable to damage, so protect them in special archival sheets if the capsule will last more than 5 years. Choose any other objects that are compact and non-perishable. There is no limit to what you can keep in a time capsule, so long as it will fit and won't reach its expiration date before you want it to be opened. Most food and drink are not great candidates for your time capsule, as they are likely to rot or spoil before the opening date. If you are out of ideas for what to put in your time capsule, run through your daily activities in your head. What objects do you use? What do you look at? What do you read? Asking yourself these questions can give you many new ideas. Write and enclose a letter, if desired. This gives you an opportunity to tell your future audience about daily life, current fads, fashions, attitudes, and trends, what you think the future might look like, and anything else that you would like to say. You can also mention your intentions in creating the capsule. Write the letter as though it were addressed directly to whoever will open the capsule. This will give it a much more personal feeling than a letter that is closer to a list of facts than a piece of communication. Make an inventory of everything in the capsule. Write down all of the contents and place the list in the capsule and in your records. This will help future openers know that everything is in place, and help you remember what you put in the capsule. Choose a duration for your time capsule. For a personal time capsule, 10 to 30 years may be enough, whereas a generational time capsule meant for your grandchildren may need to last 60 to 70 years. If you want your capsule to be opened at an even later date, you will want to start planning the logistics. It's okay to not have a specific date for the capsule to be opened. Maybe you want to open it when you are married or reach retirement. Plan for the worst wear and tear. No matter wear you plan to store your time capsule, damage could ruin the contents before anyone ever sees them. You should keep the contents wrapped separately from one another and choose a container that can withstand worse than it is likely to endure. Use a shoebox, bin, or old suitcase for a short-term, indoor option. If your capsule is only supposed to last 5 to 10 years, a simple, everyday container will keep the contents safely tucked away and easily portable, without the risk of outdoor stowing. Keep in mind that a capsule made of cardboard or paper may be completely destroyed by fire, flood, or other natural disaster. Use a coffee canister for a simple, short-term choice. If you have a used coffee tin around, the aluminum will hold up below ground for around 10 years. To avoid getting water past the lid, bury the container inside a Ziploc bag, or other airtight plastic wrapping. Select a highly weatherproof for long-term stowage. If you plan to place the time capsule outdoors or bury the time capsule, select a container that is likely to survive, like a commercial or home-built aluminum, stainless steel, or PVC plastic capsule. One example of a sturdy home-built PVC container is a PVC tube with an end cap attached with PVC cement and a test cap lid that can be screwed tightly into the pipe. Consider using desiccant "gel bags", such as those included in the packaging of electronic goods and in bottles of vitamin tablets. These help to absorb any moisture that may have been present at the time of encapsulation and help to kill microbes that may make some of your items perish. Use your imagined audience to decide where to put the capsule. If you are planning on opening the time capsule yourself, you may be able to store it in your own home or buried in your backyard. For an audience in the future aside from your family, a spot that is off of private property may be best. Be sure to store your outdoor capsule in a place that is safe from development and construction, like just outside a national park or landmark, particularly if you choose to bury it. Choose burial for a traditional time capsule approach. While burial may not be the best choice, for several reasons, it is certainly the classic way to store your capsule. Buried capsules are very likely to be forgotten or lost, and being underground makes the contents much more susceptible to damage from moisture. Another positive side of underground storage is that it is less likely to be removed or opened early as it might be indoors. Outdoor storage has a better chance of staying in one place. Store your time capsule indoors for a safer alternative. Out of the elements, indoor time capsules are a secure alternative to storing them underground. While they may be more tempting to open and a little less captivating than buried time capsules, you should still consider an indoor approach for shorter term storage. Choose an outdoor, above-ground option for a fun challenge. One interesting alternative is to store your time capsule items in a stainless steel vacuum food jar hidden inside a camouflaged polyurethane hollow rock or log. These above-ground time capsules are called Geocapsules and can provide a further level of adventure to the time capsule experience. Mark the container with the current date and the intended opening date. This ensures that the opener knows the exact origin of your time capsule and, if they found it unintentionally, knows when to open it. Avoid using ink to mark the outside of a buried capsule. An engraving would hold up best, but weather-grade paint is another good option. Noting these dates on the outside and inside of the capsule creates extra assurance. Do something to remind yourself or others about the time capsule. At minimum, you will need to record the location and intended opening date on paper, digitally, and in a secure location. If you keep a calendar, set reminders each year, or schedule an email to be sent to you on a certain date. Consider writing the location and opening date in your will, or leave a letter with a grandchild containing instructions. Make extra arrangements for a time capsule that will outlive you. If your time capsule is intended for retrieval years or decades after its original placement, make doubly sure that several people know of its exact location and surroundings. Ask them to hold the information for safekeeping, passing it along if necessary. Take photographs of your placement, identify GPS coordinates, and write down all data important for relocating the precise location. Register the time capsule to make it feel more official, and give the capsule a higher chance of being found if all else fails. Seal the time capsule and store it. Be sure to seal it tightly and completely. Remember to use a plastic bag on the outside as well for outdoor storage. If it's a personal time capsule, the hard part will be resisting the urge to open it, but soon you will forget all about it until you are reminded! Place a marker of some kind on the exact site of a buried capsule. Even if it is just a painted rock, keeping some kind of visible, yet not overt, sign of the spot to dig for the capsule will help you or someone else in the future avoid losing the treasure. | Choose an audience for your time capsule. Make a list of possible objects to include for your audience. Put toys in the capsule for kids. Pick out some current newspapers or magazines. Store journals, letters, and photographs for a personal touch. Choose any other objects that are compact and non-perishable. Write and enclose a letter, if desired. Make an inventory of everything in the capsule. Choose a duration for your time capsule. Plan for the worst wear and tear. Use a shoebox, bin, or old suitcase for a short-term, indoor option. Use a coffee canister for a simple, short-term choice. Select a highly weatherproof for long-term stowage. Use your imagined audience to decide where to put the capsule. Choose burial for a traditional time capsule approach. Store your time capsule indoors for a safer alternative. Choose an outdoor, above-ground option for a fun challenge. Mark the container with the current date and the intended opening date. Do something to remind yourself or others about the time capsule. Make extra arrangements for a time capsule that will outlive you. Seal the time capsule and store it. Place a marker of some kind on the exact site of a buried capsule. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Cut-Face-Framing-Layers | How to Cut Face Framing Layers | To cut short face framing layers, begin with damp, combed hair. Comb the hair above your forehead down in front of your face so that it covers your eyes. Twist the hair tightly and choose where you would like the layers to fall against your face. For example, if you have wavy hair, cut your hair just below your mouth, whereas if you have curly hair, cut it at your chin. Hold your twisted hair away from your face with your non-dominant hand. Position the scissors horizontally to your twisted hair and cut through the twist in a straight line. Release your hair and use a blow dryer and brush to style your new layers. | Get your hair damp. For best results, cut these layers on damp hair. A good time to cut is post-shower, right after you've towel-dried your hair. Another option is skipping the shower and misting your hair with a water-filled spray bottle. You can approach it either way. When deciding the length of your layer, you'll be going with an adjusted measurement to account for spring-back. Curly hair should be wet, not damp, before being cut. Wet your hair in the shower or under a sink tap. If you decide to use a spray bottle, make sure that you provide an even layer of water from the roots to the tips to dampen the hair. Detangle your hair with a wide-tooth comb. Before you start cutting on your hair, it's important that you detangle it thoroughly. Knots and tangles will slow you down and possibly contribute to uneven layers. Start at the ends of your hair and gently work your way up to the roots with the comb. Then, smooth your hair down with your hands. Comb the hair above your forehead straight down. Your layers should cover your top section of your head. Use the outer corner of each eyebrow as a guide. The hair that falls between those two midpoints is what you want to work on. Comb the hair straight down over your face. When sectioning your hair, make sure to go up to your apex (or highest point) of your head. You will need to blend these layers all the way around to the back. Grab that section of hair and twist it. This will separate the section from the rest of your hair. Then, clip the rest of your hair out of the way. Now you can concentrate only on the hair around the forehead, which will become the short, face-framing layers. Decide where you want the layer to fall based on your hair type. If you have straight hair, aim to cut the layer at around the mouth area. Wavy and curly hair both spring up once dry, so you need to cut off less to get the same effect. For those with wavy hair, cut right below your mouth, between your mouth and chin. If you have curly hair, cut at chin-level. You can always go back and cut more if you aren't happy with the results. Tighten the twist and hold it up and away from your face. Holding the twist up will help you create a soft framing bang instead of a blunt edge. Twist the hair tightly and hold the very end of twist with your non-dominant hand. Use a sharp pair of barber's scissors to snip through the twist. Hold the scissors horizontally. Double check where you've decided to cut. Then, snip right through the twist in a straight line. The twisted hair will ensure you end up with soft ends rather than bluntly cut ends. Release the twist and shake out your hair. The hair you removed will fall away. Comb through the newly-cut section of hair. Then, grab a round brush and comb through them again. Style your new layers with a blow dryer and round brush. Using the round brush, brush the hair inward toward your face. Blast your hair with the blow dryer as you roll the length of the hair through the brush. Then aim your blow dryer downward to finish drying the new layers so they fall smoothly around your face. Style the rest of your hair as usual. Brush your dry hair thoroughly. Start with dry hair and use a paddle brush to work through any knots. You want to start with smooth, detangled hair. This type of style will provide more layers in the front of your face than in the back of your head. Keep this in mind before proceeding with the haircut. Lean over slightly and brush your hair forward. Direct all of your hair forward to your forehead. Gather all of your hair near the forehead, almost at your hairline. Hold it there with your non-dominant hand. Once you've gathered all your hair, you can stand back up again. Secure the hair near your front hairline with a hair tie. You are basically forming a ponytail at your forehead. Hold the hair securely with your non-dominant hand and use your dominant hand to twist the hair tie into place. Try to keep your hair as smooth as possible. Hold the ponytail right in the middle with your non-dominant hand. Grab on to your ponytail about midway down, so that the ends are exposed. Twist it gently. Choose where you want your shortest layer to fall. Let the ponytail fall down your back to help you decide how short you want the shortest layer to be. Hold the spot with two fingers. Be cautious with your length. It is better to cut off less in the beginning than to cut off too much accidentally. You can always cut off more later. Cut the end of the ponytail using several straight snips. Lift the ponytail straight up while still grasping the hair with two fingers. Use a series of short, horizontal snips to cut in a straight line along your fingers. Remove the hair tie and brush out your hair normally. Brush your hair into your usual part. The freshly cut hair will fall around your face softly. Style your hair as usual and enjoy your swingy, face framing layers! If your layers feel too bulky, try holding each strand straight out and make vertical cuts into each strand. This can help reduce some of the bulk. If the layers are too choppy or blunt, you may need to blend them more. You can always visit a professional salon to help fix any mistakes you may have made. | Get your hair damp. Detangle your hair with a wide-tooth comb. Comb the hair above your forehead straight down. Grab that section of hair and twist it. Decide where you want the layer to fall based on your hair type. Tighten the twist and hold it up and away from your face. Use a sharp pair of barber's scissors to snip through the twist. Release the twist and shake out your hair. Style your new layers with a blow dryer and round brush. Brush your dry hair thoroughly. Lean over slightly and brush your hair forward. Secure the hair near your front hairline with a hair tie. Hold the ponytail right in the middle with your non-dominant hand. Choose where you want your shortest layer to fall. Cut the end of the ponytail using several straight snips. Remove the hair tie and brush out your hair normally. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Approach-a-Bisexual-Guy-in-the-Closet | How to Approach a Bisexual Guy in the Closet | To approach a bisexual guy in the closet, try being direct so you can find out for certain if he is interested in dating you. Ask him something like, “Do you date guys?” If he says yes, then you can try suggesting a place to go by picking something that you will both enjoy based on your conversation. For example, if you both like horror movies, invite him to the movies with you. If he says that he isn't interested in dating guys or isn't ready to come out of the closet, say something reassuring so he feels safe and you can return the conversation to a friendly space. For instance, you could say something like, “No worries, I just figured I'd ask.” | Pay attention to body language. The way that a guy holds himself and behaves around you may give you your first sign that he is interested in you. When people are attracted to each other, they tend to face each other, lean in close or stand close, and do subtle things like: Smiling and making eye contact. This is the classic sign of interest. If a guy is attracted to you, then he will probably make eye contact with you even if you are across the room and he may also flash you a smile. Raising an eyebrow. This is called an eyebrow flash and it is a quick involuntary movement that people make when they are attracted to someone. Watch for a quick raised eyebrow when you first see him. Parting lips. People also tend to part their lips slightly when they are attracted to someone. This is a quick gesture that will happen right as you make eye contact if he's interested in you. Watch for preening gestures. Self-grooming or preening gestures are another indicator that he might be interested in you. If you notice that he is adjusting his tie, smoothing his hair, or otherwise trying to improve his appearance, then this is also a good sign that he is attracted to you. For example, you might notice that he is absent-mindedly smoothing out his shirt while he is talking to you, or stroking his facial hair to ensure that it looks neat. Note any intimate touches. If he is really interested in you, then he might touch you in a gentle way, such as by placing a hand on your arm or shoulder, even if it is only for a moment. If he seems to be touching you now and then, then he might be doing so to show his interest. For example, if you tell a joke and he laughs while grasping your forearm with his hand, then this could be his way of showing that he finds you attractive. Consider how the person acts with other people. You might also try comparing his behavior towards you with his behavior towards other to determine if he is interested in you. If he is warmer and more affectionate towards you than anyone else (male or female), then this might be a sign that he thinks you are attractive. For example, if he laughs at all of your jokes, but barely cracks a smile at anyone else's jokes, then he may be interested in you. Smile and make eye contact. Classic flirtation tactics like smiling and making eye contact are good places to start. Whether you see him from across a room or you are sitting across a table from each other, smiling and making eye contact is a good way to show your interest. However, smiling and making eye contact is a friendly gesture, so it is a lower stakes version of flirtation that some other bolder options. Try making eye contact for a few seconds and then look away for a moment. Then, look at him again and see if he is still looking at you. If he is, then this might indicate that he finds you attractive. Flash him a smile to send the message that you also find him attractive. Strike up a conversation. Before you ask a guy out, you will probably want to get to know him and find out if you two have anything in common. Otherwise, it might turn into a boring date. Ask him about his interests, likes, and dislikes, and background to start getting to know him. Some questions you can ask him include: What do you do for a living? What do you like to do for fun? What kind of music do you like? Did you grow up around here? Do you have any pets? Are you having a good time? Give compliments. Compliments are always appreciated, whether you are flirting with someone or not. By giving the guy a compliment, you can increase his confidence and send a message that you are attracted to him. If he's interested, then might reciprocate with a compliment of his own. If he's not interested, then he can politely say thanks and then change the subject. Try saying something like, “You have a great sense of style! I love your suit.” Or, you can be a bit bold and say something like, “I am sorry if I am staring, but you have gorgeous eyes.” Try some playful touching. Giving him a few playful touches is a fun way to flirt and gauge his interest at the same time. Try some brief, gentle touches to let him know that you are attracted to him. These gestures may also give him the confidence to touch you back. For example, you can try touching him on the arm or shoulder when he says something that you find interesting or funny. Or, if you want to be a little bolder, then you can try placing a hand on his back to guide him as you are walking through a crowded place together. Hint at your interest. A subtle approach might be best if you think that there is a chance he might not be into guys. If you are still unsure about whether or not this guy is interested in dating you, then you might say something to hint at your interest in a date. This is a lower stakes way of indicating your interest that will give him the opportunity to politely decline. For example, you could try saying something like, “I need a date for this movie I want to check out on Saturday. You wouldn't happen to know a guy who would accompany me, would you?” Or, you could try saying, “I really want to ask this cute guy out, but I am not sure if he dates guys or not. What would you do in my situation?” Be direct. If hints don't seem to work or if you just want to find out for certain if this guy is interested in dating you, then take a direct approach. Ask him in a straightforward way if he dates guys. If he says yes, then you can ask him if he'd like to go on a date with you. For example, you might try simply saying something like, “Do you also date guys, or just women?” If he confirms that he dates both men and women, then you could try saying something like, “That's awesome! We should hang out sometime.” If he says no, then there might be a little awkwardness after. However, this will pass. Try to say something reassuring to return the conversation to a friendly space. For example, you might say something like, “Okay, cool. I just ask every guy I meet because I can never tell, you know?” Try suggesting a place to go. If you are getting lots of positive sign from him, then you can go ahead and ask him on a date. Pick something that you will both enjoy based on your conversation and suggest a specific day and place to meet up. For example, you could say something like, “Since we both love horror movies, we should check out that new one on Saturday. What time works for you?” Or, try saying something like, “I really want to check out that new Indian restaurant, too. Let's go together this Thursday!” | Pay attention to body language. Watch for preening gestures. Note any intimate touches. Consider how the person acts with other people. Smile and make eye contact. Strike up a conversation. Give compliments. Try some playful touching. Hint at your interest. Be direct. Try suggesting a place to go. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Clean-Cork | How to Clean Cork | To clean cork, dampen a rag with warm water and wipe the cork down with it, which should be enough to remove any dirt and grime. For stubborn spots and stains, scrub the cork with soapy water or white vinegar and then rinse off the solution with water. You can also try mixing a 1/4 cup of borax with a few drops of water to make a paste and then scrubbing the cork with it using an old toothbrush. | Vacuum cork floors. Vacuum or sweep your cork floors. Do this to remove any obvious layers of dirt or dust. That dirt can scratch the floor over time. Use a soft-bristled broom or a low setting on your vacuum. Prepare a cleaning solution with soap, vinegar, and water. Combine a drop of mild dish soap with ¼ cup (60 mL) white vinegar and 1 quart (.946 L) of warm water. Put the solution in a spray bottle to apply it most easily to any surface. Mix it gently by rocking it back and forth or stirring gently. Don't shake it or you'll create unwanted suds. Don't worry if you add a little extra soap. You can also use a combination of liquid soap and water. Try combining 5 drops of soap to every quart (.946 L) of water. Use store-bought cleaners. Try using a gently abrasive cleaning solution. Watch out for cleansers that contain bleach. These can discolor your cork. Also avoid acidic cleansers that might damage your cork. Don't use products like a Swiffer on your cork floors, as they can leave streaks. Mop cork floors. Use a soft mop to wash the floor with store-bought cleansers, soap and water, or your solution of water, vinegar, and soap. Rinse off the cleaning solution or you might see streaks or a soapy film when the floor is dry. Allow the floor to air dry or dry it with a soft rag. Wring out any extra water when you begin mopping to avoid over-saturating the floor. This extra water could damage the cork. Scrub your floors by hand twice a year for a deep cleaning. Apply a small amount of Murphy Oil Soap to a microfiber cloth. Start in the back corner of the room, then use your cloth to scrub the cork. Slowly work your way across the room until the entire floor is clean. Although hand scrubbing your floor is optional, it will help you maintain your floors and keep them clean. Avoid using a steam mop to clean cork floors. Steam mops use a lot of water as they clean the floor, which can damage cork flooring. The steam may damage the finish on your floor or the cork itself. It's best to avoid using this type of cleaner on your floors. Wipe away dirt with water. Get a rag or soft cloth damp with warm water. Use the damp rag or cloth to wipe down the cork. Try to loosen any dirt while you wet the cork. Put your cork under running water. Wash your cork directly under the faucet tap. Do this for cork that you are prepared to get fully wet, like a fishing rod grip. Don't leave standing water on cork floors. Also don't submerge shoes with cork uppers or heels under water. This could ruin any leather or suede on the shoes. Wash other kinds of cork with a cleaning solution. Use a damp sponge, gently scrub a soapy cleaning solution into your cork. Rub in circles and clean the entire surface. Rinse the cleaning solution off of the cork. Finally, dry it with a clean, soft rag or allow the cork to air dry overnight before using. Clean smaller cork items with mild detergent and water, the vinegar, soap, and water cleaning solution above, or store-bought cleaners. Make a paste with Borax. Make a paste with Borax to remove tough, ground-in dirt. Combine water with Borax in a shallow bowl. Start with about ¼ cup (60 mL) Borax and add just enough drops of water to make a thick paste. Scrub the cork with Borax paste. Rub the Borax paste into your cork with a soft, damp brush -- even a toothbrush will do. Scrub the entire surface of the cork with the paste. Rinse the paste off well. Use a rag to dry the cork. Repeat the scrubbing process and leave the paste on the cork. Let the paste dry on the cork overnight. Wipe off the dried paste with a rag. Wipe up spills as soon as they occur. Use a paper towel or a clean cloth to soak up the spill and prevent it from soaking into the floor. Don't allow liquids to sit on your floor, as they may cause damage. Even though your floor has a seal, it's best to not have spills sitting on the surface. Place trays or mats under your plants or pet bowls for floor protection. Plants normally have drainage at the bottom, and water can spill out of your plant pots or pet bowls. This can potentially damage your cork floors, especially if it pools under the pot or bowl where you don't see it. Using a tray or floor mat can protect your flooring. Disinfect with hydrogen peroxide. If you have cork that you want to disinfect -- for example, old wine bottle stoppers or communal yoga mats and blocks -- apply a thin coating of hydrogen peroxide to the cork with a damp sponge. Rub the sponge over the cork. Allow it to air dry completely before using. Don't dilute the hydrogen peroxide. You do not need to rinse the hydrogen peroxide off the cork. Sand the cork once or twice a year. You can sand any item made of cork, even floors. Very gently rub the cork with sandpaper that has fine or extra fine grit. Only sand in one direction and avoid sanding in circles. Doing this will remove any layers of dirt, but it will also remove the top layer of cork. Accordingly, limit the number of times you sand your cork each year. Protect with cork sealant. Use a commercial sealant to protect cork shoes, floors, and fishing rod grips. Consult with a flooring professional or manufacturer to determine the best sealant for your cork floors. For other products, try using sealants manufactured for cork shoes. Use the sealant to keep your cork clean and prevent it from deteriorating over time. | Vacuum cork floors. Prepare a cleaning solution with soap, vinegar, and water. Use store-bought cleaners. Mop cork floors. Scrub your floors by hand twice a year for a deep cleaning. Avoid using a steam mop to clean cork floors. Wipe away dirt with water. Put your cork under running water. Wash other kinds of cork with a cleaning solution. Make a paste with Borax. Scrub the cork with Borax paste. Wipe up spills as soon as they occur. Place trays or mats under your plants or pet bowls for floor protection. Disinfect with hydrogen peroxide. Sand the cork once or twice a year. Protect with cork sealant. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Write-a-Roommate-Wanted-Ad | How to Write a Roommate Wanted Ad | By writing a good roommate wanted ad, you'll have a better chance of finding a great match. Start your ad with a catchy headline to hook potential roommates, like "Roommate wanted to share great apartment near downtown!" Then, promote any stand-out features that will appeal to the type of roommate you're looking for. For example, if you're looking for a quiet roommate who keeps to themselves, you could write, "Furnished, clean, great for someone who enjoys quiet nights in." Or, if you want a roommate who you could go out with, you could write, "Close to public transportation, restaurants, bars, and fun nightlife." Include a description of the current occupants too, like your age ranges, genders, and things you have in common. It's totally OK to describe what kind of roommate you want as well so you find a better match. You could write something like, "Would love to live with a nonsmoker and someone who is clean and quiet." | Figure out what you and your home have to offer. It's a good idea to brainstorm about what you can offer a potential roommate before you write an ad. This can help you more easily write the ad text and attach photographs that will attract quality roommates. Some examples of what you might offer are: convenient location, your great personality, pets, cheap rent. Write out a list of what you have to offer so that you can easily draw upon it when you write your ad. Think about what you are looking for in a roommate. You'll also want to consider what you are looking for in a roommate before you compose your ad. This will help ensure that you thoroughly address every contingency that may happen with a roommate. A roommate's habits can significantly affect you and your home. Make sure to think about factors such as personality and habits such as cleanliness. If you've ever had a roommate, think about what you liked and disliked about them. You can use this information to help direct you as you formulate a list of what you are seeking in a roommate. Create a list of what you are looking for in a roommate so that you can easily draw upon it when you write your ad. Decide where to place your ad. Where you place a roommate ad can determine the type of roommate you attract. Considering where to place the ad can not only help you find the place best to advertise but also help the best roommate find you. You can advertise for roommates in different locations including online, in the newspaper, on public bulletin boards, or having someone you know make an announcement. Reading ads for roommates in different sources can give you a sense of the clientele and types of people each publication offers. Perusing ads can also help you write the best text for your needs. Coin a catchy headline. You want to compose an ad that will appeal to type of roommate you are seeking. Coining a catchy and engaging headline can direct and hook potential roommates. Keep your headline short and to the point. Remember, this is just to draw in potential roommates. For example, if you are looking for a roommate who attends a nearby college or university, you could use the headline, "Roommate Wanted to Share Great Apartment Near Campus!" If you have pets, you could write “Cat lover seeking cat lover to share great apartment and kitty cuddles.” Define the location of the house or apartment. One of the most important items potential roommates look for in an ad is the apartment or house location. This can help weed out potential roommates who may not like the location or cannot afford it. Include basic information about the location such as if it is a house, an apartment building, and how many people live there. If you want to protect your privacy, only include the apartment building name, not your unit number. Inform readers of the type of building, the location, and the neighborhood. With a house, you can include the street. Ask potential roommates to email or call you for an interview and the house or building's specific location. Promote the apartment with its features. List the features of the room, apartment or house, and the neighborhood. Consider things that will appeal to the type of roommate you are seeking to help you locate the best person for you and your flat. Make sure to include features about the apartment such as furnished, clean, friendly community, carpeting, windows, washer and dryer, and air conditioning. You'll also want to include information about public transportation and parking. For example, if you are looking for a roommate who is quiet and a homebody, you may want to include things like "located in secluded area, quiet at night, perfect for individuals who want to avoid noisy bar traffic." If you are looking for someone who could go out with you, you could write “located in an area close to restaurants, bars and nightlife.” Describe the current occupants. Write a brief description of the current occupants of the house including you, other roommates, and pets. This can also help weed out people who may not have similar needs or wants as you. Include information about how you and any other occupants use the apartment or house, whether it is active or quiet, or if people work or stay at home all day. Make sure to include the sex and age range of everyone living in the apartment or house. Explain what type of roommate you are seeking. It might seem like you are being picky to include the type of roommate you want, but the point of your ad is to attract someone with whom you can live. Listing specifics such as nonsmoker, male or female, and attributes is very important and can help you run avoid uncomfortable situations down the road. Depending on where you live, there may be discrimination laws about excluding certain people or groups as roommates. For example, it may be illegal to write “no women” or “Christians only” in an ad. Consult local rental laws to see what you can and cannot include in a roommate wanted ad. This part of the ad should make the right person say “that's the flat or house for me.” Make sure to include information about items such as cleaning expectations, behavior in common areas, cooking, smoking, parties, and guests. List the cost of rent and any other fees or expenses. Towards the end of your ad, include financial information about renting with you. Be as specific as possible and make sure to include any additional fees such as utilities or cleaning costs. Potential roommates should know exactly how much they will be expected to pay prior to applying, which should also help weed out unwanted persons. List the rent, the cost of utilities, and any other fees such as cleaning services or parking rates. Make sure to include how much security deposit you require. You may want to let potential roommates know that you will be conducting interviews for the space. It's always a good idea to ask for references from potential renters. You can include a line about references with the financial information, which may detract otherwise unsavory potential roommates. Provide your contact information at the bottom of the ad. You want potential roommates to contact you without sharing too much information. This will help protect your privacy. You can include your first name in the ad, but don't use your last name. Only include a phone number if you have caller ID. Use an anonymous e-mail address created specifically for your roommate search. This will make it easy to ignore people that may not be right for your space. Attach photos of the advertised space. Including pictures of the space you are advertising can also help attract potential roommates. Make sure to include pictures of the room, common areas, and any other features you want to highlight. | Figure out what you and your home have to offer. Think about what you are looking for in a roommate. Decide where to place your ad. Coin a catchy headline. Define the location of the house or apartment. Promote the apartment with its features. Describe the current occupants. Explain what type of roommate you are seeking. List the cost of rent and any other fees or expenses. Provide your contact information at the bottom of the ad. Attach photos of the advertised space. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Stop-a-Fight | How to Stop a Fight | If you're trying to stop a fight in public, stay calm, and address the situation with a soothing voice, nonthreatening body language, and slow movements. Call the police if weapons are involved, or directly ask somebody nearby to help you break up the fight. To stop a fight at home, reframe your disagreement as a problem you have to face together rather than the other person being the problem. Additionally, use “I” statements, like “I feel frustrated when… “ to communicate, rather than blaming the other person by starting a sentence with “You.” | Stay calm. If two other people are starting to fight, you should try to diffuse the tension by appearing relaxed. Use a soothing tone of voice, nonthreatening body language (for example, keep your hands raised in front of your chest), and slow movements. Assess the situation quickly. Fights move quickly so you won't have a lot of time. You need to determine how serious the situation is, if you are in danger, whether you need to call for help, and what strategies might work best to stop the fight in this particular situation. Try to determine whether anyone has a weapon or is likely to reach for an object to use as a weapon (for example, a bottle in a bar fight). If so, call the police and do not intervene. Try to move other onlookers, especially children, to safety. Notice whether the fighters have "back up," often in the form of onlookers who are egging on the fighters. Gang fights and similar situations are unpredictable and you should not try to intervene. Look around for any large objects that you can push between the fighters, like trash cans, desks, or anything else that is big but possible for you to quickly move into place. Even something as small as a pen can potentially be used to hurt others, so don't assume that the situation is safe just because no guns or knives are involved. Call the police. If either fighter has a weapon of any kind, call the police and do not try to intervene. You should also call the police if you are physically unable to restrain a fighter or fear that your safety would be in jeopardy if you intervened. Unless a police officer happens to be in the vicinity, it may be too late by the time they arrive. If it is safe to do so, try to break up the fight yourself while you wait for them to arrive. Get help from another onlooker. If there is anyone else within hearing range, get them to help you break up the fight before attempting to do it yourself. In situations like this, onlookers don't generally stop to help unless you tell them specifically. So instead of yelling "Someone help me!" look someone in the eye and say "Help me stop the fight!" If possible, choose someone who is larger than the fighters and looks strong and athletic. But in a pinch, any able-bodied adult will do! Don't leave the scene of a fight to get help unless you have to, especially if the fighters are juveniles. If you're at school or in another setting where there are no adults present, you can always send a kid to get another adult. Get between the fighters. This recommendation is only for situations in which both fighters are unarmed and the fight has not escalated to full-on blows. Be aware getting between two fighters is a risky choice, and you may be injured. You should also know that in many schools, it is illegal for teachers to touch students, even to intervene in a fight. When two people are gearing up for a fight, they tend to confront each other with their chests puffed and their shoulders back, staring directly into each other's eyes. Put your body between them during this stage, and you can help break the invisible tension between them. Face the antagonist. If one of the two fighters is "picking a fight" or purposely antagonizing the other, this is the person you should attempt to redirect and calm. Use a soothing voice and try to reason with the person. Most people do not want to fight, but fear looking weak if they back down. For that reason, it's your job to give the antagonist an "out" or a reason to not fight the other person without losing face. If you know the person, use his or her name, and try phrases that will resonate like, "What about your kids?" or "Do you want to go back to jail?" If you do not know him or her, try soothing phrases like, "It's OK, calm down," or "Think about what you're doing; do you really want to face the consequences of a fight?" Restrain an active fighter. This can be very difficult unless you have had training in self-defense or martial arts of some kind, or if you are out of shape or smaller than the attacker. It can also be risky, as you might get injured or be accused of hurting someone. However, there are times when you must intervene to stop someone from hurting someone else. Get behind the attacker and use a half-nelson grip to take her down. A half-nelson is a wrestling technique designed to take an opponent to the ground. To execute this move, pass your dominant arm under the attacker's arm on the same side (that is, your right arm under her right arm, or your left under her left). Reach your arm up over her back and grip her neck. Pin her other arm using your free arm. Recognize situations in which fights are likely to occur. You can avoid an altercation altogether by recognizing the types of situations that often lead to tense and violent interaction. These often include: Events where people are drinking too much alcohol. Avoid bars and nightclubs late at night, especially establishments that tend to get rowdy. Leave if you sense that other people are becoming agitated. Road-rage related fights. Be courteous while driving and follow posted signs. If someone tries to confront you, avoid eye contact and drive to the nearest police station. On a school playground. Tell your parents, a teacher, or counselor if someone is threatening to hurt you or if you fear for your safety at school. If they do not do anything to help, tell someone else until you get help. If no one will help you, call the police. Try to get away. Rather than engaging with a person who wants to fight you, try to walk or run away from them to avoid a fight. Remember that in many situations, such as at school or on the job, engaging in a fight can get you in trouble or even put into jail-- even if you think you are only engaging in self-defense. Get attention. If you are being attacked, draw attention of onlookers and passersby to try to get help. If someone is trying to fight you, they might back down if there are more people on your side. Scream or yell as loudly as possible. Remember, most people who see a bad situation will not become personally involved if they can help it; it's a psychological phenomenon known as the "bystander effect." Look someone in the eye and instead of asking for help, tell them to help you. If you know their name, use it. Say, "Help me, this person is trying to attack me," or "Call the police, NOW!" Use verbal techniques. If you do not have a weapon and you do not know any self-defense techniques, you can try using verbal techniques to "talk down" your attacker. Try using soothing words. Most people who are angry are unable to think clearly, and their heightened emotional state can take several minutes to return to normal. Try talking to the attacker in a soothing tone of voice for several minutes or as long as possible to give him or her time to return to a more rational state of mind. Make empathetic statements. Often a person will try to fight you because he or she thinks you have done something wrong. While you might vehemently disagree, in order to avoid being hit or otherwise attacked, you can try making statements that show you are empathetic to how the person feels. You might try saying, "You're right, that was a stupid thing I did. I don't know why I did that, but I'm sorry." Learn self-defense. If you fear for your safety and want to be truly prepared for someone who might try to fight you or who might attack you, you need to learn how to use physical force to defend yourself. Take classes from a trained professional in personal self defense or any number of martial art techniques such as jujitsu or tae kwon do. Look for a course that specifically teaches defensive techniques; ask the instructor before signing up if this course is right for you and how long it will take before you learn usable techniques. As with anything else in life, if you want to be good at self-defense and to have it be a skill you can easily access, you should practice it consistently. Understand what is normal. Some level of verbal disagreement is normal in intimate relationships, like that between spouses or between kids and their parents. But disagreements and conflicts should not be handled by fighting. Yelling, name-calling, belittling the other person, threatening to leave, or withholding attention or affection are not healthy ways to fight. Unfortunately, many people grow up in households where these types of fighting are commonplace, and they tend to handle their own disagreements in much the same way throughout life. In a relationship where fighting is commonplace, it can be difficult to retrain all of the involved parties to stop fighting and instead talk through disagreements in ways that are respectful. But your goal should be a collaborative relationship where differences are resolved through dialogue and where everyone feels safe, respected, and cared for. Reframe your disagreements. Instead of a fight, try to understand differences of opinion or disagreements as a problem-solving challenge. A fight is a situation where you and the other person are against each other. But you and your child, parent, or spouse are not against each other, you are partners! A disagreement is an opportunity to collaborate with your partner for a mutually-satisfying solution. Reframing a fight as a collaborative partnership doesn't make it easier to solve, but it does change the dynamic of the interaction. It is not you against them, it is you and them against the problem. Set ground rules. Every healthy relationship has rules, whether spoken or unspoken, about what types of behavior are acceptable. If your relationship struggles with fighting, setting ground rules can be a first step toward a more emotionally stable and fulfilling relationship. Agree about what is off-limits during a disagreement. For example, name-calling, threats to leave, or personal insults should be avoided. Agree to allow the other person a "time-out" if a disagreement begins to become heated. Promise to revisit the issue later, when all parties are calm. Sometimes, just thirty seconds to breathe and cool down is enough; other times, it might be a good idea to go to bed and sleep on it, and resume discussions the next day. Communicate. The only way to resolve a conflict is to talk through it. Learning how to discuss how you feel and why you are upset can be difficult. It is a good idea to begin practicing during smaller disagreements rather than waiting for big blow-out fights. State why you are upset. Be clear and specific, and try using "I" statements rather than statements that blame the other person. For example, "I feel frustrated when I have to take out the trash," rather than "You didn't take out the trash." Let the other person state their side. Be willing to listen and give the benefit of the doubt. Many verbal fights result from a misunderstanding or from jumping to conclusions about another person's motivations. Brainstorm solutions. Remember, this is a collaborative activity. Both parties likely have ideas for their own optimal solution, but the goal is to find a solution that works for everyone. Be willing to compromise, especially on issues that really aren't that important to you. It is difficult to come to a true agreement if you only give the other person one option. Reconnect after a fight. Remember why you love this person. As frustrating as disagreements may be, you should make a point to reconnect and reassure each other that you are still as committed to them as you were before the disagreement. Hold one another, hug, pat the person on the back, or reconnect in any way you can. Tell the person you care about him or her. Get help. If your family's fighting is out of control or you feel like you or someone else is in danger, tell an adult you trust or call the police. In the United States, call the National Domestic Violence Hotline at 1-800-799-7233 or 1-800-787-3224 (TTY, for deaf callers). Trained counselors at this 24-hour hotline can help you plan your next step. | Stay calm. Assess the situation quickly. Call the police. Get help from another onlooker. Get between the fighters. Face the antagonist. Restrain an active fighter. Recognize situations in which fights are likely to occur. Try to get away. Get attention. Use verbal techniques. Learn self-defense. Understand what is normal. Reframe your disagreements. Set ground rules. Communicate. Brainstorm solutions. Reconnect after a fight. Get help. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Apply-for-a-Marriage-License-in-Tennessee | How to Apply for a Marriage License in Tennessee | Before applying for a marriage license in Tennessee, see if you can complete a pre-application form online from your county clerk's office, to save you some time by submitting a lot of the necessary information ahead of visiting the clerk's office. If not, complete the usual form from the clerk's office. Gather the necessary documents, including your birth certificate, social security card or passport if you're not American, and any divorce papers or death certificates if you were married before. Book an appointment with the county clerk's office, making sure both of you can attend at the same time because this makes processing quicker. Bring your fee, relevant documents and completed forms with you. Once you've got your licence, make sure to use it within 30 days. | Make sure you have proof of your date of birth. Since you have to be 18 years of age or older to get married in Tennessee (without parental consent), you'll have to provide proof of age. A certified birth certificate or government issued photo identification (such as a driver's license) is acceptable. Have your social security number available. This is another requirement for obtaining the marriage license. It's a good idea to have the social security card itself in hand. If you're not a US citizen, and don't have a social security card, then you'll need a valid passport. Gather important facts. There's certain information you'll need for the application, such as: Your parents' full names (including mother's maiden name) Your parents' state of birth and address (if living) The number of your prior marriages The date your last marriage ended (if applicable). Obtain a certified copy of your divorce decree. If you're the prospective bride, and you had your name changed in a divorce, you should also have changed your name on your driver's license. If you didn't, you'll need to provide a certified copy of your divorce decree. It's probably wise for both the bride and groom to have any divorce decrees available, just in case any issues concerning the divorce come up during the application process. Get a certified copy of your former spouse’s death certificate. If either the bride or groom is a widow or widower, having a certified copy of the deceased spouse's death certificate is a good idea, again in case the county clerk has any questions. Contact the county clerk's office where you plan to apply for the marriage license. The clerk's office is where you'll be able to get your application. Most, if not all, county clerk offices have a website. A listing of the counties and their contact information can be found at www.tncountyclerk.com. Complete a pre-application form online. In order to save time, many county clerks provide an online form that allows you to submit much of the necessary application information in advance. Check with the clerk's office to see if they offer this service. Determine the fee. There's a charge to apply for a marriage license in Tennessee. It varies from county to county, but it's usually around $100. Look on the clerk's website, or call. Also, find out if you need to bring cash, in case some clerks don't accept checks or credit/debit cards. Consider taking a 4 hour premarital preparation course. If you take this course within a year prior to the date you apply for the license, the county clerk will deduct $60 from the application fee. You'll need to get a Certificate of Completion when you finish the course. Again, the clerk's office can give you more information about this. Call the county clerk to see when you can come in. The clerk's office will tell you the days and times when they process marriage license applications. They'll set up a specific date and time for you if they work by appointment. They may also have this information online. Bring the fee and the necessary documentation with you. If you forget the fee or any of the needed documents (referred to in Part 1), you'll have wasted a trip to the clerk's office. Check to make sure you have everything you need, before you leave home, including the Certificate of Completion for the premarital preparation course, if you took it. Plan to appear at the clerk’s office together. Under Tennessee law, both the bride and groom need to sign the application and swear to the truth of the information it contains. To speed the process, it's best to arrange your schedules so that you can go to the clerk's office at the same time. Make sure your parents or guardian are with you if you’re between 16 and 18 years old. If either applicant for the marriage license is 16 or 17 years old, his or her parents, guardian, next of kin, or person having custody has to join in the license application, under oath. They have to state that the applicant is 16 or over, and that the applicant has their consent to marry. Use the license within 30 days. The marriage license is only valid for 30 days. If you don't get married within that 30 day period, you'll basically have to start the application process from scratch. | Make sure you have proof of your date of birth. Have your social security number available. Gather important facts. Obtain a certified copy of your divorce decree. Get a certified copy of your former spouse’s death certificate. Contact the county clerk's office where you plan to apply for the marriage license. Complete a pre-application form online. Determine the fee. Consider taking a 4 hour premarital preparation course. Call the county clerk to see when you can come in. Bring the fee and the necessary documentation with you. Plan to appear at the clerk’s office together. Make sure your parents or guardian are with you if you’re between 16 and 18 years old. Use the license within 30 days. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Baste-a-Turkey | How to Baste a Turkey | To baste a turkey, take it out of the oven and peel back the foil that's covering it. Then, use a spoon, cup, or bulb baster to pour your basting liquid over the turkey. You can use all kinds of liquids for basting, like stock, wine, beer, gravy, and juice. After you've poured your basting liquid over the turkey, cover it back up with the aluminum foil and let it continue cooking. Repeat the process every 20-30 minutes until the turkey is finished cooking. | Prepare your turkey for roasting. This includes de-frosting it, washing, stuffing, and trussing, etc. Want some ideas? wikiHow is full of 'em. How to Roast a Turkey How to Brine, Truss, and Roast a Turkey Slow Cook a Turkey How to Roast a Turkey With Moist White Meat Turn on the oven and place the prepared turkey in its large roasting pan. If you have one available, place the turkey on a rack in the pan so the drippings fall to the bottom of the pan and are easy to get to. Some people choose to baste from the drippings in the bottom of the pan, while others choose to make a special mixture separately to put over it. What you use to baste is up to you. Set your timer, and let the roasting begin. You'll want two timers: one for the basting intervals and one for the whole time. How long you put it in for overall largely depends on the size of your turkey. Set your basting timer for 30 minutes. You will be basting at every 30 minute interval. After 30 minutes, open the oven to baste. Pull out the rack part-way. Open the roasting pan lid, or pull back the foil tent cover a bit. Look at the meat. Is it starting to get a little tan? Excellent. Your turkey is ready for its first basting session. Some people do prefer to baste every 20 minutes or so. However, the shorter the interval, the more you'll be strapped to the oven. Take out a spoon, cup, or bulb baster. A bulb baster is a special rubber tool to suck up and pour out liquids. It's like a large, soft syringe. If you don't have one, a spoon or cup will work just as well. Baste your turkey. Take some of the liquid you prepared for basting and pour it gently all over the surface, using your spoon, cup, or bulb baster. Use any kind of stock, wine, butter, oils, gravy, or juices. The idea is to keep the turkey meat moist. It's easiest to use the juices at the bottom. However, if you have a recipe for an herb butter, a marinade, or a gravy, that's great, too. Put the lid or tent cover back on, and put the turkey back in to roast. Reset the timer for 30 minutes. Go watch an episode of your favorite TV show or pick up a book, but don't go too far away! Repeat this process of checking and basting with your reserved liquid every 30 minutes. Soon, once again, you will have liquid on the bottom of the pan. Now use that instead of any liquid from a bowl. Whether you used the original meat juices or something else, it is now at the bottom of the pan, infused with meat juices, ready to be reused again. Remove extra liquid if the juices touch the bottom of the turkey. Don't let the turkey stew in juices. This will make the meat soft instead of giving it that golden outside, crispy rind. This is why a small rack in the roasting pan is best. With a rack, it stays out of all the juices. But keep the juices! Use some of the juices as a gravy base, or pour some into a bowl for table dressing over stuffing, vegetables, potatoes, etc. Don't let it go to waste! That juice has been stewing for hours with delicious turkey juices. Make a foil tent. Many people choose to forgo the basting entirely and instead wrap the turkey in a foil tent – basically just a layer of aluminum foil loosely over the turkey. This keeps the juices in, serving the same purpose as the basting. This is more convenient in that once the foil is placed, you can set it and forget it, instead of going into the kitchen every half hour for maintenance. Spray with apple juice. Instead of getting into the pan and dealing with hard-to-get-to juices or melting butter and herbs and getting sticky, just spray the turkey with apple juice! If you have a spray bottle, it's incredibly convenient. Of course, you could always infuse the apply juice with honey, herbs, butter, or anything else you can imagine for a more savory touch. Use bacon. Want to put a trendy take on your turkey? What's better than bacon? Fry up some bacon, add in some paprika, garlic, or maybe some onion, and keep the juices. Set the bacon aside on paper towels to dry. Then pour the bacon juices all over the turkey. When the turkey is near done, chop up the bacon and sprinkle it over the turkey. Know that you don't need basting for a brined turkey. A brined turkey is one that is kept in a large bucket or cooler for around 12 hours with a mixture of water, salt, broth, honey, and other additives. It's a great way to ensure that your turkey stays incredibly moist, and no basting required! You still have to cook the turkey as normal, and using a foil tent is a good idea. Some people choose to use wood chips on the bottom of the pan to give it a roasted hickory taste. If this sounds interesting, check out the article ! | Prepare your turkey for roasting. Turn on the oven and place the prepared turkey in its large roasting pan. Set your timer, and let the roasting begin. After 30 minutes, open the oven to baste. Take out a spoon, cup, or bulb baster. Baste your turkey. Put the lid or tent cover back on, and put the turkey back in to roast. Repeat this process of checking and basting with your reserved liquid every 30 minutes. Remove extra liquid if the juices touch the bottom of the turkey. But keep the juices! Make a foil tent. Spray with apple juice. Use bacon. Know that you don't need basting for a brined turkey. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Get-Rid-of-Roaches | How to Get Rid of Roaches | To get rid of roaches, keep your kitchen as clean as possible to cut off their food source. Wash dirty dishes right after using them, wipe the floors and countertops regularly to get rid of crumbs, and clean up spilled food in your kitchen cabinets. Keep your trash in a sealed bin so roaches can't get into it. Additionally, make your own cockroach bait by mixing 3 parts boric acid with 1 part powdered sugar. Sprinkle the bait in your kitchen cabinets, behind appliances, and in your pantry. The sugar will attract roaches, and when they eat it, the boric acid will kill them. Make sure to keep children and pets away from your cockroach bait. If you encounter a roach while you're cleaning or putting out bait, spray it with soapy water to kill it. Keep in mind that it can take weeks or months to get rid of all the roaches in your home, so you may want to hire an exterminator if you can't wait that long. | Cut off water sources. Cockroaches must have a source of water. Depending on the temperature and their size, they can live for a month without any food, but no more than a week without water. Find all the water leaks in your house , and fix them. Once their water source(s) have been eliminated, they will be much more interested in eating gel-based baits you set out. Clean your house thoroughly. A clean house is key to keeping cockroaches away, and the first place to start is the kitchen. Wash your dishes and put food away promptly after meals. Clean up crumbs and spills right away, and generally keep the area clean. Pay special attention to range tops, as cockroaches love grease. Hide your food. Keep food containers sealed, and don't leave food out for extended periods. Don't leave dirty dishes out overnight, and don't leave fruit on the countertop. Mop the floor routinely. This should clean up crumbs and sticky spots. Do not slop water against the walls; remember, they need water. Take out the trash regularly. Have one trash can for food in your house. Don't let it sit for too long. Use a trash can with a lid, rather than one that stays open. Keep it in sealed containers that aren't sitting right next to your house. Use store-bought cockroach bait. Cockroach bait is either housed in a childproof-case or applied as a gel and contains a slow-working poison mixed in with an attractive food (for cockroaches). The roaches eat the poison and bring it back to the nest, where it eventually kills all the other roaches. Place the bait in an area where you know cockroaches will encounter it, such as along baseboards, under the sink, and in corners. It should be as close to the nest as possible, so that as many roaches as possible will eat it and take it back to the nest. Most cockroach baits contain Fipronil.05% or Hydramethylnon 2% as the active ingredient. Roaches will eat the poison, then excrete it back at the nest, where other roaches will come into contact with it and die. Killing roaches using this method can take several weeks. Once the first generation of cockroaches is killed, their eggs will hatch, and more cockroaches will have to be poisoned before the nest is gone for good. Try homemade cockroach baits. Mix one part powdered (not granular) boric acid (sometimes sold as a roach-killing powder, but often available in pharmacies), one-part white flour, one part powdered white sugar. The sugar and flour attracts the roaches, and the boric acid kills them. Sprinkle the powder in the backs of drawers and cabinets, under the refrigerator, under the stove, and so on. You can also try a similar mixture of 1-part boric acid, 2 parts flour and 1 part cocoa. Expect at least 3 cycles of disappearance/reemergence of progressively smaller hordes of cockroaches, lasting about 2 weeks each. Continue using boric acid till roaches are gone. Kids, dogs, and some other pets will eat this mixture. Boric acid is not highly toxic to humans and pets, but is for external use only, so place it where only the bugs can get it. The mixture will cake hard in humid environments, so paper or foil trays may be needed to protect your floors and cabinets. Use a solution of soap and water. This is an easy way to kill adult roaches. Make a light solution of soap (bath soap is fine) and water that is thin enough to spray through a spray bottle. You can splash it, spray it or just throw it on the roach. Just 2 or 3 drops of a soapy water solution can kill a roach. Ensure that it makes contact with the roach's head and lower abdomen. If you can turn the roach over, hitting the belly is best. The roach will run or try to run, but will suddenly stop and die or be almost dead in one minute. The soapy water kills them by forming a thin film over the roach's breathing pores that stays in place due to surface tension, causing the roach to suffocate. Throw the roach away as soon as possible, since it could recover if the water dries up or has not touched a large percentage of its body. Use an insecticide spray. Get some insecticide that is labeled for use against cockroaches and contains Cyfluthrin or another insecticide as the active ingredient. Spray wherever cockroaches may be hiding or entering the house, including along walls, in cracks, and in vents. Keep pets and children out of the way when you are spraying, and follow all safety instructions on the product's label. If you're also using roach bait, don't spray near the bait. The spray may contaminate the bait and cause roaches to stay away from it. Using spray against roaches works to keep them out of sight for the present moment, but it can also serve to drive them further into your walls and make the problem worse. It's important to treat the nest as well as killing roaches on site. Apply a liquid concentrate. Liquid concentrates, once the exclusive domain of professional exterminators, are now being made for use by the public. The concentrate is a poison or deterrent chemical that is diluted with water and then sprayed, wiped, or mopped onto just about any surface, crack or crevice to kill roaches that walk there. Concentrates can be particularly effective providing protection against re-infestation, as they usually deter roaches for 1-2 weeks or more. Get professional grade pesticides. For the worst infestations, as a very last resort, you might want to order the strongest pesticides available. Look for a pesticide that contains Cypermethrin. Professional baits, glue traps with pheromones, and professional sprays are far more effective than products bought at a local home store. Cy-Kick CS is a micro-encapsulated product that is very effective against roaches. You'll probably have to buy it online, because this pesticide isn't usually sold in hardware stores. It will kill live bugs, as well as provide a residual effect for three months. Spray it around the perimeter of your home and in places like your basement. The downside is that this will kill all bugs, even ones that eat roaches, like spiders and millipedes. Use this only as a last resort, and don't use it at all if you have pets and kids around. It's a very strong poison that will harm anyone who eats it. Use store-bought cockroach traps. Cockroach traps lure cockroaches in and then trap them with an adhesive. Get several of these, and place them wherever cockroaches are known to frequent. While this is an effective way to kill a small population of adult roaches, it won't affect the nest itself. Use water jars. A simple and effective homemade way to lure and trap roaches is with a jar placed next to a wall. This allows the roaches to get in, but not escape. Any bait can be placed in the jar, including coffee grounds and water, but it also works with plain water in drier climates. Again, this is a good way to kill adult roaches, but it doesn't affect the nest and eggs. Use soda bottle traps. Take a plastic soda bottle and cut off the top where it curves. Invert the top and place it into the body of the bottle so that it acts like a funnel inside the bottle. Tape it into place around the rim. Pour a bit of water with soap in the bottom of the bottle, and set the trap in a place where roaches hang out. They'll craw into the trap and drown. Move yard debris away from the outside of the house. Cockroaches love piles of wood and other convenient hiding places, and as the weather turns colder, they'll migrate inside the house to keep warm. Make sure your woodpile is far away from the house. Remove piles of straw, leaves, clippings, and any other yard waste. Seal the house to keep roaches from entering. Seal cracks in exterior walls to keep roaches out of the house by blocking their entrance. Seal cracks everywhere you can inside your house as well. This takes time, but the payoff is great, because you eliminate most of their favorite hiding and breeding places. Fill every crack inside every cabinet in your kitchen. Fill the cracks on both sides of floor, door, and window moldings. Fill all openings around pipes in bathrooms and kitchens. Set out preventative traps. Even if you successfully got rid of a nest, prevent a re-infestation by setting out traps that will kill roaches before they get out of control. The best approach is to leave the caulk off a few cracks that are close to potential areas of entry, like the drain or vents, and place traps as follows: Spray over with insecticide (such as Raid) in either gel or liquid form. This serves as a second line of defense should any roaches survive or get past the physical barriers; this will at the very least weaken them. Alternatively sprinkle salt under kitchen cabinets and in cracks. If the place is vacant for an extended period, mop tiled floors with salty water before leaving. Fix any openings with caulk, Spackle or some other hardening mixture. If the crack is on a baseboard or wood, after putting the Spackle down, rub with resin or cover with wood paint. Once the Spackle has hardened, 4-6 hours after its application, it is child-safe. | Cut off water sources. Clean your house thoroughly. Hide your food. Mop the floor routinely. Take out the trash regularly. Use store-bought cockroach bait. Try homemade cockroach baits. Use a solution of soap and water. Use an insecticide spray. Apply a liquid concentrate. Get professional grade pesticides. Use store-bought cockroach traps. Use water jars. Use soda bottle traps. Move yard debris away from the outside of the house. Seal the house to keep roaches from entering. Set out preventative traps. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Get-Rid-of-Bed-Bugs | How to Get Rid of Bed Bugs | To get rid of bed bugs, start by machine washing all of your infested bedding with hot water. If one of your infested items can't be washed, seal it in a plastic bag and put it in a hot, sunny area for several days until the heat kills the bed bugs. Once you've washed or bagged all of your infested items, thoroughly vacuum your house to pick up any leftover bugs or eggs. | Alert your landlord or property manager if you don’t own your home. If you own your home, skip this step. Otherwise, call your landlord or property manager right now. Depending on where you live, they may be required to pay or assist with treatment. Even if they aren't, it's important to let them know what's going on with their building. It's not super common, but bed bugs can travel to other floors. If you own a condo, contact the head of your condo association to let them know what's going on. Leave your furniture where it is and don't do anything hasty. If you start taking things out of the infested room to get them away from you, you're only going to spread the infestation. The odds are high you'll be able to salvage all of your furniture. Keep any pets crated far from your bedroom for the near future. If you have a cat or dog and haven't noticed them scratching a lot, they probably haven't been attacked and are not infested (bed bugs prefer humans and rarely go after pets). While you're treating your mattress, the bed bugs may go after your furry friend instead. Leave your dog or cat in a crate for the night on the opposite side of your home to keep them safe. You only need to do this until you can handle the problem. You may have to deal with a few nights of a whining pet, but it's better than letting bugs jump all over them! Get quotes from exterminators to see if you can get the bugs professionally removed. Depending on the scope of the problem, professional bed bug removal will cost $1,000-2,500. You can certainly remove the bugs on your own, but it's much easier to have a professional do it. Get at least 4-5 different quotes to see who has the best price in your area. If you do hire an exterminator, they'll show up, inspect the infestation, and treat your home for you. You'll likely need to stay somewhere else for a night or two, though. This is the only real solution if an entire property is infested. It's really unrealistic for a non-professional to treat an entire home. Luckily, bed bug infestations are usually only found in the bedroom. Seal your sheets, blankets, and infested clothes in airtight garbage bags. Grab some garbage bags with tightening handles. Stuff your sheets, blankets, and any dirty clothes inside and tie the bag off. Use multiple bags if you need to. Take these bags to your laundry room or local laundromat. You don't need to worry about spreading bed bugs at a laundromat so long as your bags are sealed, you don't dump the clothes on any surfaces, and you place the clothes directly in the washing machine. You can probably leave any clean clothes you have hanging up. You definitely need to wash whatever is in your drawers, but you can handle that later since these bugs and eggs aren't the main concern right now. In an average infestation, roughly 70% of the bed bugs will be in your mattress. If you can't get an exterminator out today or you're still weighing your options, at least treat your mattress before going to bed to get a good night's sleep. Wash and dry your clothing, sheets, and blankets on high heat. Take the bag to your washing machine and place your blankets, sheets, and dirty clothes in the washer. Wash them with laundry detergent on high heat. When they're done, dry them on high heat. Use as many loads as necessary. This will kill any bed bugs and eggs in your clothes, blankets, and sheets. Repeat this process for all of the clothes in your drawers over the course of the next 1-3 days. Freeze un-washable fabric items in a plastic bag for 4-12 days. If you have any delicates you can't wash or fabric-lined items, place them in an airtight plastic bag. Set the plastic bags in the freezer and set your freezer to the coldest setting available. Keep these objects and smaller items in the freezer. If you can get the temperature to 0 °F (−18 °C), leave the bags for 4 days. Otherwise, leave them for 8-12 days. This applies to teddy bears, hacky sacks, trinkets, hats, or any small fabric item that can't be placed in a washer. The bugs will freeze to death and any eggs that are trapped in the item won't hatch. Do this in batches if you don't have a particularly big freezer. Open up as much space as you can by dumping the ice out and eating whatever frozen meals you have left. This is really only important for things near or on your bed. If you have fabric items on your desk or something, they're probably okay. Vacuum your mattress, bed frame, box spring, and carpet to remove any bugs. Clean your vacuum bag out. Then, get a thin hose attachment and vacuum everything. Go over each section of your mattress 2-3 times. Vacuum the sides and base of your bed frame. Then, vacuum the floor. Go over carpeted areas 2-3 times. This will remove any adults that are hanging out around your bed. If possible, use a HEPA vacuum or vacuum bag. The bed bugs won't be able to climb out of these bags after you suck them up. Encase your mattress in a protective cover before you sleep. After you've vacuumed everything, get a plastic mattress cover designed to keep bed bugs out and wrap your mattress in it. Seal it and put a new set of sheets on. Rest easy knowing the odds are now extremely low you'll get bit up tonight. A few new bed bugs may get through, but you shouldn't wake up with tons of bites. Get a second mattress cover to encase your box spring if you use one. Set anything you clean or wash aside into a clean part of your home where you're positive there aren't any bed bugs to keep these items quarantined. Place bed bug traps along the base of your bed to keep stragglers off. Bed bug traps, known as interceptors, will draw bed bugs in and keep them from moving around. Pick up 4-8 interceptors and place them around the legs of your bed frame. This will keep any bugs from climbing up the bed frame while you sleep. When you wake up, inspect the traps to see just how many bugs you're dealing with and throw the traps out in an outdoor bin. This should give you an idea of how bad the infestation is. The more bugs you see in the traps, the more serious the problem is. Repeat this process on the day you’re going to remove the bugs entirely. All of this will keep the bugs off of your bed, but you aren't done yet. Once you're ready to get to do your final extermination, repeat all of these steps. Vacuum everything, wash your dirty clothes, and freeze anything you forgot about. This will make it much easier to eradicate the rest of the bugs. The only thing you don't need to repeat is the mattress and box spring wrapping. Once those items are encased, leave them. There's no need to take your mattress out and re-vacuum it. If you completed all of these steps and haven't spent a night resting or waiting for an exterminator, there's no need to do them again. Steam-clean your walls, furniture, and carpets at 130 °F (54 °C). On the day you're going to eradicate the bugs, get a steamer and load it with water. Turn it to the highest heat setting available and run the steamer along your bed frame, floors, baseboards, carpets, and crown molding. This will kill any bed bugs that come in contact with the steam. Steaming high-risk surfaces will kill any bugs and eggs that come in contact with the steamer. Pick up some silica aerogel or diatomaceous earth to kill bed bugs. There are two safe options when it comes to bed bug pesticides you can apply yourself. Silica aerogel is a pesticide that will coat any bugs that come in contact with it and suffocate them. The more popular option is diatomaceous earth, which is a powder that will poison any bugs that touch it. Both are safe to use in your home. Organic or “natural” remedies like tea tree oil or homemade sprays are not effective at combatting bed bugs. Foggers and bug bombs are generally not recommended for bed bugs. These all-at-once treatment options are tempting, but bed bugs are pretty good at tucking into nooks and crannies where the aerosol or gaseous insecticide won't reach. Apply the pesticide to every crack, baseboard, drawer, and carpet. Snip off the top of the nozzle on your pesticide. Squirt a quick puff under your baseboards, around your bed frame, inside your drawers, and around the corners of your home. If there are any cracks in your walls, squirt the powder inside. Treat every hidden and hard to reach area and let the powder do its job. You may be tempted to just completely coat your home in this stuff. This isn't any more effective than just applying it to the targeted areas where the bed bugs are hanging out. Leave the pesticide for at least 10 days before vacuuming it up. At a minimum, let the pesticide sit for 10 days, which is how long it takes for the eggs to hatch. However, the longer you can leave it, the better. When you're convinced they're gone, vacuum up all of the pesticide, put your clothes back in your drawers, and take solace in the fact that the problem is gone. If you do find new bites or spot new bugs, you'll need to repeat this entire process. It may take 2-3 attempts to get rid of bed bugs. If the bed bugs keep returning no matter how many times you fight them off, you may need to bite the bullet and hire an exterminator. | Alert your landlord or property manager if you don’t own your home. Keep any pets crated far from your bedroom for the near future. Get quotes from exterminators to see if you can get the bugs professionally removed. Seal your sheets, blankets, and infested clothes in airtight garbage bags. Wash and dry your clothing, sheets, and blankets on high heat. Freeze un-washable fabric items in a plastic bag for 4-12 days. Vacuum your mattress, bed frame, box spring, and carpet to remove any bugs. Encase your mattress in a protective cover before you sleep. Place bed bug traps along the base of your bed to keep stragglers off. Repeat this process on the day you’re going to remove the bugs entirely. Steam-clean your walls, furniture, and carpets at 130 °F (54 °C). Pick up some silica aerogel or diatomaceous earth to kill bed bugs. Apply the pesticide to every crack, baseboard, drawer, and carpet. Leave the pesticide for at least 10 days before vacuuming it up. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Relieve-Ear-Infection-Pain | How to Relieve Ear Infection Pain | If your ear infection's causing you pain, there are a few ways you can relieve your symptoms. Hold a warm compress or a washcloth soaked in warm water to your ear for 15 to 20 minutes. You can re-soak your cloth and repeat this as many times as you like. Another way to relieve your ear pain is to warm 1-2 teaspoons of olive oil or honey and add 3 or 4 drops into your infected ear. Just make sure it's not too hot. Repeat this 3 or 4 times a day. If your pain's severe or lasts more than 24 hours, or you have symptoms like a fever, discharge from your ear, or dizziness, visit your doctor as soon as you can. | Try a warm compress. A warm compress may help alleviate ear pain. Use a clean washcloth soaked in warm water and place the washcloth over the ear. Replace the washcloth often, every 15 to 20 minutes, or as needed. You can also press a warm bottle or warm bag of salt over the ear. Try an olive oil treatment. Olive oil is a great home remedy for ear infection pain. Warm one teaspoon of olive oil, making sure that it does not get too hot. You don't want to burn the ear. Using a medicine dropper, add three to four drops of the warmed oil to the affected ear. Repeat three to four times a day. Alternately, you can also soak a small piece on cotton in the olive oil and place the cotton in your ear. Repeat 3-4 times a day. Always warm the oils to about body temperature. You can test the temperature by dropping a bit of the oil on your wrist. Be very careful about warming the oil because it can cause serious damage to the inner ear if it is too hot. The best way to warm oils is to pour some into a dropper bottle and let the dropper bottle stand in an inch or so of heated water until it is warm. Use herbal oils. A few herbal oils can act as natural antibiotics and have antiviral properties. Mullein oil is traditionally used for earaches, and has soothing and antibacterial properties. It can be purchased online or at an herbal store. Using calendula in ear drops can also be used to help relieve pain. Make sure to talk to your doctor before using any herbal remedies on children. Try garlic. Garlic oil has antibacterial and antiviral properties and has been used for centuries to treat ear infections. You can make your own garlic oil by warming up one teaspoon of fresh, minced, or crushed garlic in one tablespoon of olive oil. Let it infuse for 15 minutes and run it through a fine mesh sieve. You can mix the remaining oil with an equal amount of olive oil or just use the garlic oil. Use three to four drops in each affected ear three to four times a day. You can also slice some garlic and put the garlic pieces in a cloth or paper towel. Place the garlic pouch on the ear. You can secure it by tying around your head with something, like a piece of cloth. Make sure whatever you put the garlic in allows the garlic to seep into the ear, but keeping it from directly touching the skin. Make sure to talk to your pediatrician before using garlic in your child's ear. Use ginger. Ginger can be used to relieve pain as well. Mince or crush one teaspoon of fresh ginger and add it to one tablespoon of olive oil. Let it infuse for 15 minutes and run it through a sieve. Use three to four drops in each affected ear three to four times a day. Speak with your doctor before using ginger to help your child's ear infection. Make an onion compress. Cut up half an onion and gently heat it in some olive oil. When the onion is soft, let it cool before pouring it into a cotton cloth. Fold the cloth so that the onion doesn't fall out, and place the compress over the ear, allowing the warm onion juice to flow into the ear. Leave on for 10 to 15 minutes. Repeat every three to four hours. Use honey. Honey has antibacterial and healing properties, so you can use it to help relieve ear pain. Warm up some honey and put three to four drops into the affected ear. Make sure the honey is not too hot. You don't want to burn your ear. Repeat three to four times a day. Try over-the-counter medicine. There are a few different kinds of medicines you can buy to help relieve ear pain. Ear drops can help with the pain. You can also use acetaminophen (like Tylenol) or ibuprofen (like Advil) to help relieve pain. Do not use aspirin in children under the age of 2 years or in any child or teenager after the flu or the chicken pox. Giving aspirin to a child or teenager can lead to Reye's syndrome, which is a potentially fatal disease that causes the brain and liver to swell. The risk of a child or teen developing Reye's syndrome is even higher after the child or teen has had chicken pox or the flu. Get prescription medicine. Most adults with mild ear infections heal within a week using home remedies. However, if the ear infection is severe enough, your doctor might prescribe antibiotics. Generally, antibiotics are only used in severe cases and not for every ear infection. If the pain or infection is bad enough, your doctor can prescribe eardrops or other medicine. For children younger than six months of age with an ear infection, antibiotics should be given immediately. Do not try to use home remedies for an ear infection on a child. Amoxicillin is the most commonly prescribed drug for ear infections. Your doctor may recommend taking 500 mg every 12 hours or 250 mg every 8 hours for a mild to moderate infection. For a severe infection (patients with fever) your doctor may prescribe 875 mg every 12 hours or 500 mg every 8 hours. Your doctor may also prescribe amoxicillin-clavulanate if your infection does not respond to amoxicillin or if you have severe ear pain and/or other symptoms, such as a high temperature. If you are allergic to penicillin, then your doctor may prescribe cefdinir, cefpodoxime, cefuroxime, or ceftriaxone instead. Streptococcus pneumoniae, Haemophilus influenzae, and Moraxella catarrhalis are bacteria that may be to blame for your ear infection. Taking antibiotics should attack the bacteria. However, if your infection does not seem to improve within 48 to 72 hours after starting antibiotics, then call your doctor. Purchase oil products. There are a number of commercial ear oil products that can be purchased in most stores or online. Examples of these include: Wiseways Herbals, NOW Ear Oil Relief, HerbPharm Kid's Mullein/Garlic Ear oil, and Gaia Herbs Ear Oil with Mullein/St John's wort. Try these if you don't want to make your own. Make sure to follow the directions for use. If your child has an ear infection, do not try to treat it yourself. Ear infections in young children are more likely to lead to serious complications, such as hearing loss, facial paralysis, brain abscess, and meningitis. Take your child to see a doctor right away if he or she is having ear pain. Recognize the symptoms of an ear infection. An adult or older child should be able to identify if she has an ear infection. An infant cannot, so you will have to look for symptoms. The symptoms of an ear infection include: Tugging or pulling at the ear (this may be the only sign in some infants) Ear pain, especially when lying down Irritability, crying, and fussiness Difficulty sleeping Hearing loss Fever of 100oF or higher Loss of appetite Drainage from the ear Dizziness or a feeling that the room is spinning Warmth, redness, or pain around the ear Swelling or itching Monitor the risks for ear infections. Ear infections cannot be caught from another person. However, certain conditions can lead to ear infections. Be alert for ear infections if you or your child encounter any of the following conditions: Allergies, colds, or sinus infections Cold climates Changes in altitude or climate Pacifier or sippy cup use, or drinking a bottle while lying down Exposure to smoke Family history of ear infections Contact your physician. Most ear infections can be treated at home. However, some ear infections are severe and need to be taken care of by a doctor. Call your doctor if any of the following apply: Fever of 100 degrees Fahrenheit or higher Severe pain Severe pain that suddenly stops. This may indicate a ruptured eardrum. Drainage from the ear Any new symptoms, such as dizziness, headache, swelling, or weakness in the facial muscles If the ear pain lasts more than 24 hours Change in hearing ability | Try a warm compress. Try an olive oil treatment. Use herbal oils. Try garlic. Use ginger. Make an onion compress. Use honey. Try over-the-counter medicine. Get prescription medicine. Purchase oil products. Recognize the symptoms of an ear infection. Monitor the risks for ear infections. Contact your physician. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Make-Caramel-from-Sweetened-Condensed-Milk | How to Make Caramel from Sweetened Condensed Milk | Remove the label from a sweetened condensed milk can and place it in the center of a pan. Fill the pan with lukewarm water, then bring the water to a simmer. Let the can sit for 2 hours to make a light sauce or 3 hours to make a thick sauce, and be sure to check on the can every 30 minutes to prevent scorching. Once it's finished, remove the can from the water and let it cool down before opening. | Remove the label from the can. Only use a can of condensed milk that has a sealed lid for this method: do not use a can with a pull-tab lid. There will be a fair bit of pressure building up inside the can as you boil it, and you don't want the lid popping off. Fill the saucepan with room temperature water. Make sure the can is fully immersed and that there's an extra two inches (five cm) of water covering the can. This will prevent the can from overheating and possibly exploding, and prevent the milk from burning. Place the unopened can in a medium or large saucepan. By placing the can on its side, you will prevent it from bouncing around as the water boils. Bring the water to a simmer over high heat. When it begins to simmer, turn it down to medium heat and allow to simmer for two to three hours (two hours for a lighter dulce de leche, or three hours if you want the sauce thicker and darker). Check on the can every 30 minutes. Turn the can every half hour to prevent scorching. Top up the water as needed to ensure there's always one to two extra inches (two-and-a-half to five cm) of water covering the can. Remove the saucepan from the heat. When two to three hours are up, remove the can with a slotted spoon or tongs and place it on a wire rack. Allow it to cool to room temperature. Don't open the can until it has fully cooled. Prepare your double boiler. Fill the bottom of a double boiler with about two inches (five cm) of water and bring it to a boil. Open a can of sweetened condensed milk and pour the contents into the top portion. Use a saucepan and a glass bowl if you don't have a double boiler. Half fill a small or medium saucepan with water, and set a large glass bowl inside the saucepan, making sure it doesn't touch the water (if it does, empty out some water). Make sure the glass bowl is big enough to form a seal with the saucepan. Heat the milk. Place the milk over the boiling water in the double boiler and cover with a lid. Bring it to a simmer over medium heat. Stirring occasionally, simmer for one-and-a-half to two hours, until the milk becomes thick and reaches the desired caramel color. Use aluminum foil to create a lid if you are using a saucepan and glass bowl. Remove from the heat. As it cools, whisk the dulce de leche until it is smooth and free of lumps. Allow it to cool for about 20 minutes before serving or using in a recipe. Preheat your oven to 425 F (218 C). Open a can of sweetened condensed milk and pour the contents into a nine-inch pie plate. Cover the pie plate with foil. Place the pie plate in a larger baking dish. A larger pie plate or large roasting pan will do. Add hot water to the baking dish until it comes halfway up the pie plate. Bake for one hour. After an hour, remove the baking dish (with the pie plate inside) from the oven. Remove the foil and whisk the milk. Check the consistency and color. If the milk hasn't achieved the desired thickness or caramel color, cover it with the foil again and return the pie plate and water-filled baking dish to the oven. Top up the water if necessary. Check every 15 minutes. After the first hour, check on the confection frequently until it reaches the desired consistency and caramel color. Remove it from the oven when you are happy with the dulce de leche, or until it has achieved the color of peanut butter. Transfer to a mixing bowl. As the dulce de leche cools, whisk it until it's smooth and creamy, about three minutes. Prepare the can. Remove the label from the can of sweetened condensed milk. Place the unopened can on its side directly on the bottom of the pressure cooker. Fill the pressure cooker with enough water to fully immerse the can and cover it with an extra inch (two-and-a-half cm) of water. Do not exceed the maximum fill line on your pressure cooker. Secure (lock) the lid and heat. Heat on high until the pressure cooker reaches the proper pressure. Immediately lower the heat slightly, but keep the temperature high enough that the pressure cooker maintains pressure. You want the heat high enough to simmer the water, but not so high that the pressure cooker whistles. Continue cooking for 40 minutes. When the 40 minutes are up, remove the pressure cooker from the heat. Release the pressure. Allow the pressure cooker to naturally release its steam and reduce its pressure, or with the quick release valve. Do not open the pressure cooker until all the steam has been released and the pressure has dropped. Open the pressure cooker and remove the can. Use tongs or a slotted spoon to remove the can from the water and place it on a wire rack. Allow it to cool to room temperature, and don't open the can until it has. Prepare the can. Remove the label. Place the unopened can on its side on the bottom of the slow cooker. Fill the slow cooker with enough water to fully immerse the can and cover it with an extra two inches (five cm) of water. Heat on low for eight to 10 hours. For a lighter dulce de leche, cook for eight hours; for a thicker and darker sauce, heat for ten hours. Turn off the slow cooker and remove the can. Use tongs or a slotted spoon. Allow the can to cool on a wire rack to room temperature before opening. | Remove the label from the can. Fill the saucepan with room temperature water. Place the unopened can in a medium or large saucepan. Bring the water to a simmer over high heat. Remove the saucepan from the heat. Prepare your double boiler. Heat the milk. Remove from the heat. Preheat your oven to 425 F (218 C). Place the pie plate in a larger baking dish. Bake for one hour. Check every 15 minutes. Transfer to a mixing bowl. Prepare the can. Secure (lock) the lid and heat. Continue cooking for 40 minutes. Release the pressure. Open the pressure cooker and remove the can. Prepare the can. Heat on low for eight to 10 hours. Turn off the slow cooker and remove the can. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Malt-Barley | How to Malt Barley | To malt barley, start by letting it soak in cool water for 8 hours. Drain, then let it dry for 8 hours. Repeat until 95 percent of the grain has chitted, or grown small white rootlets. Then, spread the barley on baking sheets, zip them into plastic bags, and store in a cool area. Every 4-8 hours, mist the barley with water and turn each grain over until the sprouts inside the grains are as long as the grain. Then, dry the barley in the oven at 125 °F for 6-8 hours, remove the rootlets, and store the barley in an airtight container until you're ready to use it. | Transfer the barley to a large food-safe bucket. You can malt as much barley as you like. It's important to work in manageable batches depending on your equipment. Malting barley requires a large bucket, a strainer, baking sheets, and a dehydrator. A good quantity of barley to start with is between 1 and 4 pounds (450 and 1,810 g). Don't fill the bucket more than halfway; otherwise, there won't be room for water and expansion as the grains absorb water. Make sure to use whole raw barley, and not pearled, hulled, or other types of grain that have been processed. Fill the bucket with cool water and soak the barley for 8 hours. Add enough water to completely cover all the grains. The water will kick start the germination process. During soaking, store the barley, uncovered, somewhere cool. The temperature should be between 50 and 60 °F (10 and 16 °C). During soaking, dirt and components from the husk will dissolve in the water, and these will be drained out later. Getting rid of these particles will make for a better tasting malt. You can soak the barley for longer than 8 hours if necessary, but don't soak it for longer than 16 hours at a time. The barley can drown if you leave it in the water for too long. Drain the water. Pour the barley into a large strainer or colander to strain out the water. As the barley is draining, clean the soaking bucket with hot, soapy water. Rinse the bucket well to remove any soap residue. This will help to prevent the growth of bacteria and fungi. It's important to drain and air dry the barley between soakings, because the barley will die if it doesn't get enough air. Air rest the grains for 8 hours. Transfer the drained barley from the colander back to the cleaned soaking bucket. Leave the barley to air dry in the same cool location for 8 hours to give the grains access to plenty of oxygen. While the grains are air resting, clean the colander with hot, soapy water. Repeat the soaking and drying process. When the barley has been air rested for 8 hours, fill the bucket with enough cool water to completely cover the grains. Leave the barley to soak for another 8 hours. After that time, drain the barley in the colander and transfer it back to the bucket to air rest for another 8 hours. Be sure to clean the bucket and colander with hot, soapy water between uses. Examine the barley for chits. Pick up a handful of grains and look for small white protrusions growing from the bottom of the grains. These are chits, and they're rootlets that appear when the barley has absorbed enough water. The soaking and air drying cycles are complete when about 95 percent of the grains have chitted. Continue soaking and air resting the barley in 8-hour periods until most of the grains have chitted. Chitting could require between 2 and 3 soaking and air-drying cycles. If the barley doesn't chit after 3 or 4 soaking and drying cycles, it may not be viable, which means it won't sprout. Discard the barley and start again with a new batch. Spread the barley out in a single layer on baking sheets. Transfer the barley to 1 or more clean baking sheets. Use your hand to spread out the grains. The grains can be touching, but make sure they're not piled on top of each other. For large batches of barley, you'll need to use multiple baking sheets. Place the baking sheets inside plastic bags. Open up a large plastic garbage bag and lay it down flat. Insert a baking sheet filled with barley inside the bag, and fold the opening of the bag under the baking sheet. The plastic will keep the barley moist as it germinates. Repeat with the other baking sheets. Store the barley in a cool and well-ventilated area. The ideal temperature for germination is 64 °F (18 °C). Good places for germination include well-ventilated root cellars, garages, and basements. Barley that gets too hot or wet will be susceptible to mold growth. Barley that's too cold or dry won't germinate properly. Mist and flip the barley every 4 to 8 hours. The barley will produce heat as it germinates, so you must keep it cool and moist. Remove the baking sheets from the bags and mist the barley with cool water. Turn each grain over by hand as you mist. Return the baking sheet to the garbage bag and refold the opening of the bag under the baking sheet. Repeat the misting and flipping 3 to 6 times a day. If the barley is being germinated somewhere warm or dry, you may have to mist 6 times a day to keep it cool. However, if the barley is somewhere cool or damp, you may only have to mist 3 times a day. Monitor the size of the acrospire. Each time you mist and flip the barley, take a few grains and inspect the acrospires for growth. Flip the grain to the smooth side and use a knife to cut open the husk lengthwise. Look for the sprout at the bottom growing upward (away from the roots). The germination process is complete when the acrospires are about as long as the barley grain itself. The full germination period typically takes 2 to 5 days. The acrospire is the first sprout that appears during the germination process. Don't confuse the acrospire with the roots, which are visible and growing out of the bottom of the barley grain. Return the grains you tested to the baking sheet with the other barley. Spread out the barley on food dehydrator racks. Unfold the garbage bags and remove the baking sheets from the bags. Transfer the barley to the dehydrator racks. Spread the grains out with your hands so they're in a single layer. Drying the barley at a low temperature will stop the germination process and remove excess moisture from the grains. Dry the barley for up to 24 hours in a dehydrator. Set the dehydrator to 120 °F (49 °C) and turn it on. Leave the barley to dry for 6 to 8 hours, and then test it for doneness. Pull the rootlets attached to the grain. If they separate easily from the grain, the barley is sufficiently dry. Otherwise, continue dehydrating the barley until the rootlets start to fall off easily. Dry the barley in an oven as an alternative. Set the oven to 125 °F (52 °C). Transfer the barley to clean baking sheets and spread the grains out into a single layer. Place the baking sheets in the oven and dry the grains for 6 to 8 hours. Test the rootlets to see if they fall off easily, and continue drying the barley until they do. Don't dry the barley in an oven that can't go as low as 125 °F (52 °C), because drying the barley at too high a temperature will destroy the enzymes in the grain. Sun-dry the grains in warm climates if necessary. If you don't have a dehydrator or suitable oven, you can dry the barley in the sun in warm, dry climates. Spread the barley out in a single layer on baking sheets. Place the barley in direct sunlight and leave it out to dry all day. Bring the barley in at night to protect it from predators, and return it to a sunny location in the morning. The drying process could take 2 to 3 days, depending on the outdoor temperature. Bring in the barley immediately if it starts to rain. Remove the rootlets. When the barley is sufficiently dry that the rootlets fall off easily, turn off the dehydrator or oven, or bring the barley in from outside. Transfer the dried barley to a colander and shake the colander to remove the rootlets. To avoid having rootlets fly everywhere, shake the grains outside. Store the barley in an airtight container. Transfer the malted and dried barley to an airtight container, such as a mason jar, food storage container, or freezer bag. Store the grains in a cool, dry location, for up to a year. A good place for barley storage is a dry root cellar, or the refrigerator if you have room. | Transfer the barley to a large food-safe bucket. Fill the bucket with cool water and soak the barley for 8 hours. Drain the water. Air rest the grains for 8 hours. Repeat the soaking and drying process. Examine the barley for chits. Spread the barley out in a single layer on baking sheets. Place the baking sheets inside plastic bags. Store the barley in a cool and well-ventilated area. Mist and flip the barley every 4 to 8 hours. Monitor the size of the acrospire. Spread out the barley on food dehydrator racks. Dry the barley for up to 24 hours in a dehydrator. Dry the barley in an oven as an alternative. Sun-dry the grains in warm climates if necessary. Remove the rootlets. Store the barley in an airtight container. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Win-a-Wrongful-Termination-Lawsuit | How to Win a Wrongful Termination Lawsuit | To win a wrongful termination lawsuit, start by collecting evidence for your case, like work emails, the contract you signed when you began working, the company handbook, and your pay stubs. Then, speak to an attorney who can help you file your claim and present your case. If you allege discrimination, your attorney may tell you to file with the Equal Opportunity Employment Commission. | Record your impressions of the termination. Write down all the circumstances of your termination while they are fresh in your mind. Create a timeline of events, when you were notified and when you were asked to leave. Document the names of everyone involved. Get copies of all paperwork. Be sure to have a copy of your termination notice. Secure a copy of your personnel file. Ideally, you will have kept a record of all official communications, such as prior reprimands or commendations, as well as informal comments and information about raises. Employers sometimes like to hustle people out of the building immediately after being terminated. You may not have time to return to your office and make copies to take home with you. Store copies of annual reviews, correspondence, emails, and employee handbooks at home. In this way you will have easy access to this material. Keep pay stubs and financial records. You will need to prove how much the wrongful termination cost you in money. Pay stubs will help establish the amount of wages you lost. Speak to co-workers to uncover if you are being singled out. If you were fired for making an error, speak to coworkers who also made the same error. If someone else made the same mistake but did not receive the same punishment, this could be proof of discrimination. Common reasons for termination are poor job performance and absenteeism. Your termination letter should specify your violation. Particularly seek out co-workers who differ from you in terms of age, race, gender, or religion. If they were treated differently, then you may have strong evidence of discriminatory intent. Send a follow-up email to your supervisor. If you are fired in person, follow up with an email to your supervisor summarizing the contents of the discussion. This might be the sole record of the meeting you have. Stay professional and don't send the email until you can avoid being argumentative. The purpose of the email is simply to document the discussion. If you do not feel comfortable sending an email, then simply makes notes about the conversation as soon as possible. Determine if you work in an "at will" state. Every state except for Montana is considered at will. This means employers can terminate your employment at any time. There are important limitations to “at will” termination. For example, your employer cannot fire you for an illegal reason, such as gender or racial discrimination, or in retaliation for you exercising a legal right. You may also not be fired for refusing to perform an illegal act. Also, an employer may not make your work environment so uncomfortable that he can anticipate that you will quit. This is called "constructive discharge." Look for an employment contract. If you signed a contract when you began working, that contract should spell out the terms of your employment and the steps for termination. Gather employee handbooks and policy manuals. Some states will consider handbooks, policy manuals and other documentation as creating “implied contracts” between employer and employee. Your implied contract might entitle you to a notice period or severance pay before being terminated. Language in a handbook must be sufficiently clear that a reasonable employee would believe that a contract is being offered. For example, language such as “shall” or “must” or “never” before a promise is sufficiently clear evidence of a contractual promise. But a clear disclaimer stating you have been hired “at will” and that the handbook is not a contract trumps any implied contract. Review a union contract. A union contract supersedes the “at will” doctrine. The union contract should spell out grounds for dismissal, as well as employer procedure. Speak to an attorney. Employment law differs from state to state, and the facts of your case are unique. Only a qualified employment attorney can offer tailored legal information. To find an attorney, contact your state bar association. They should have a referral system. If costs are a concern, most attorneys will represent you under a contingency fee agreement. Under this arrangement, an attorney only gets paid if she wins your case. Typically, she will get around 30-40% of the award amount. Under a contingency fee agreement, clients still most pay for costs, such as filing and service fees, so be sure to budget for that. Find the appropriate forum. If you have a breach of contract claim, then you may file for suit in civil court. However, if you allege discrimination, you probably need to exhaust administrative remedies first at either the state or federal level. If you allege discrimination based on race, religion, sex, national origin, age, disability, color, genetic information, or retaliation, then file a complaint with the Equal Employment Opportunity Commission (EEOC). You may also file discrimination claims with state agencies. For example, in California, almost all plaintiffs file with the California Department of Fair Employment and Housing because the state agency's rules are more advantageous that the federal ones. In California, you can also request an immediate right to sue and skip the administrative process. Constructive discharge suits are brought in both state and federal courts. Perform a self-assessment. Visit the EEOC's online self-assessment tool to find out if the EEOC is the right agency for you to file with. You have 45 days from the discriminatory action to contact an EEOC counselor. Be prompt. Fill out a complaint. You initiate a wrongful termination suit by filling out the appropriate form. The correct form depends on whether you are suing for breach of contract or filing a complaint for discrimination/retaliation with the EEOC or a comparable state agency. In state court actions for breach of contract, you may secure a blank complaint form from the County Clerk. You will fill in your name as plaintiff and your employer's name as defendant. You initiate the EEOC process by first contacting the office. An EEOC counselor will discuss your rights with you. After your final interview, your counselor will give you a letter with information about how to file the complaint. State agency rules may differ from the EEOC. If you choose to file with a state agency, contact them about proper requirements and procedures. File soon. Whether filing a breach of contract claim in state court or a complaint with an administrative agency like the EEOC, you cannot sit on your rights. You must file before certain deadlines. Statute of limitations for breach of contract vary by state. In California, you must file suit within 4 years. In Illinois, you have 10 years. You must file a formal complaint with the EEOC within 15 days of receiving notice from your counselor about how to proceed. File the complaint at the EEOC office where you were counseled. Allege illegal termination. In order to win a wrongful termination lawsuit, you will need to prove that your termination was illegal. If suing for breach of contract, you should quote the contract provision your employer violated. For example, if you were promised employment for 3 years, quote the provision that says that. Attach a copy of the employment contract to your complaint. In an EEOC formal complaint, you must include your name, address, and telephone number; a short description of the discriminatory events; why you believe you were discriminated/retaliated against (e.g., race); and a description of any injury you have suffered. The complaint must also be signed by you or your lawyer. Perform discovery. In a lawsuit, each side is able to request documents in the possession or control of the other party. If you don't already have copies of your employee handbook or personnel file, then you can request them now. Ask for copies of internal checklists or procedures. Companies routinely require that checklists be followed when firing someone. If your employer deviated from established protocol, you may have evidence that discrimination or retaliation was the real motivation. Sit for your deposition. In addition to exchanging documents, each side is allowed to question witnesses before trial begins in order to establish what each witness knows. As the plaintiff, you most assuredly will be asked to sit for a deposition. Prepare thoroughly. Sit down with your attorney and run through questions you will be asked. Be sure to do as many deposition preps as necessary to feel comfortable. At the deposition, be sure that you understand the questions thoroughly. Also, never guess; answer “I don't remember” if you do not remember information. Oppose the defendant’s motion for summary judgment. Many employment suits are dismissed before trial. A defendant will allege that there are no factual disputes to be resolved at trial and that the defendant is entitled to judgment as a matter of law. Entertain settlement. If the defendant fails to secure summary judgment, it may want to settle. There are many factors you must consider before accepting or rejecting a settlement: How strong your case is. You might lose at trial. With a settlement, you at least will gain some compensation. The amount offered. If your case is strong but the settlement amount is low, you might want to proceed to trial or counteroffer for a higher amount. Discuss this with your attorney. The emotional burden of trial. At trial, the defendant will paint an unflattering picture of you. Cross-examination on the witness stand may also be stressful. If you want to avoid these stressful situations, a settlement may be ideal. Go to trial. If settlement talks fail, then only a trial will vindicate your rights. At trial, your attorney will examine witnesses, present evidence, and make a final argument to the judge or jury. Prepare to testify. Undoubtedly you will be called to testify at trial. You will be asked about your job performance and about your working relationship with others. Prepare the same way you did for the deposition. Assist your lawyer by getting her any documents she needs. Any delays only hurt your case. | Record your impressions of the termination. Secure a copy of your personnel file. Keep pay stubs and financial records. Speak to co-workers to uncover if you are being singled out. Send a follow-up email to your supervisor. Determine if you work in an "at will" state. Look for an employment contract. Gather employee handbooks and policy manuals. Review a union contract. Speak to an attorney. Find the appropriate forum. Perform a self-assessment. Fill out a complaint. File soon. Allege illegal termination. Perform discovery. Sit for your deposition. Oppose the defendant’s motion for summary judgment. Entertain settlement. Go to trial. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Read-a-Stock-Chart | How to Read a Stock Chart | To read a stock chart, check the top left hand corner to identify the stock. Next, choose a time frame, like daily, monthly, or yearly, to access different views. For a quick overview of the latest price, moving average, and volume traded, check the summary key in the top left hand corner. For specifics, refer to the chart itself, which has an upper and lower section. The upper part tracks changes in price and the bottom section tracks volume. Moving averages are generally indicated by lines across the chart. | Identify the chart. The first thing to do is identify the chart that you are looking at. Look to the top left hand corner of the chart and you will see the ticker designation, or symbol. This is a short alphabetic identifier, generally three or four letters long. For example, the symbol for Ford Motor Company is "F" while the symbol for Forward Industries is "FORD". It is important to have the correct symbol when looking up information on a company. You can search for tickers by company online. There may also be a time and date for the chart. If you are using charts online they can be updated frequently or even in real-time. Choose a time window. This can be daily, weekly, monthly, or yearly. Depending on where you are accessing the chart, you may be able to choose between these different views. Looking at these different timescales will help you identify longer and shorter-term trends, and see when the stock has formed "consolidations." Consolidations are periods of stable prices (very little movement). Remember that the horizontal X-axis always shows the time period (left to right). Note the price on any given day and look for consolidations in the days that follow. Note whether they form above or below the price in question. There could be consolidations both above and below. When they are above, the consolidations signify resistance to the price moving up. When they are below they show resistance to downward movement and are referred to as "support". Stock traders often use support levels as opportunity to purchase a stock anticipating a rebound in price. Traders use resistance levels as indication that the stock price will decrease. Note the summary key. Just below the stock designation in the top left hand corner of the chart, you should see the summary key. This will give you the key information from the chart in numerical values that you can read quickly. The amount of information included in the summary key will vary depending on the chart. It should at least give you the latest price, and the price moving averages. It may also tell you about the volumes traded. Track the prices. The chart itself will be divided into two sections, the larger upper section and the smaller lower section. The upper part of the chart tracks the changes in the price the stock has been traded at over the period covered by the chart. This may be shown with a line, bars, or with markers known as “candlesticks.” The prices are shown along the vertical Y-axis. Often these markers will be colour-coded. For example, if the stock closed up on a particular day, the marker may be black. If the stock closed down it may be marked in red. Note the volume traded. In the bottom section of the chart, you will see the information on the volume of stocks traded. This is a crucial indicator, which helps you to determine when there is particular momentum, positive or negative, in the market. Like the pricing, the volume traded bars may be color-coded. The color refers to whether the closing price is up or down from the closing price of the previous day. A decrease is generally reflected in red and an increase is green or black. A closing price identical to the previous day's may be gray or black. The color-coding is not fixed, so be sure to read the chart carefully and consult the key. Watch for thinly traded stocks, or stocks that are traded at a low volume. These stocks are difficult to move and often cannot be sold without major loss. You must also be aware of false signals, which make it appear as though a declining stock is about to go back up, but it is in fact going to keep falling. This may be due to timing lags, irregularities in data sources, smoothing methods, or calculation errors. Look at the moving averages. The moving averages are a key tool in stock analysis. A moving average is a calculation of a stock average price of a period of time that is constantly adjusted as time goes by. As a consequence, it is a lagging average that is intended to smooth out price fluctuations over a specific period of time. On a chart these are generally indicated by lines which cut across the chart. The averages shown will depend entirely on the particular chart you are looking at, and you may be able to select different averages to view. The moving average helps smooth out any major fluctuations in price. They provide a clear general indicator of the change in price of the stock over time. Moving averages can help identify a trend pattern, but there may be some lag as they refer to past prices. Identify the stock. Financial newspapers are the traditional way to read up on the movements of stocks on the market. These may have been superseded by the more immediately updated information on the internet, but they can still provide a useful guide when researching stocks. The presentation may vary, but in general a stock quote chart should have around twelve columns. The name of the stock will often be shortened version of the name of the company. One column will show the ticker name for each stock. Note the long term price changes. The first two columns on the chart should be labelled “52W Low” and “52W High,” or something similar. The figures in these columns record the highest and lowest price at which the stock been traded in the last 52 weeks, or a year. This will be kept up-to-date, but in general will not include the trading from the day before. This information gives you a useful picture of the longer term price history of a stock. It can indicate a general pattern or trend, but should be supplemented by further research. Check the price/earnings ratio. The price to earnings ratio is an important piece of information that you can get from the chart. The column for this will typically be headed something like P/E, or P/E Ratio. This is a ratio used for valuing companies by measuring current share price in relation to per-share earnings. It is sometimes known as a multiple. Basically, this ratio indicates how many dollars an investor must invest in company to receive a dollar return. If a stock had a P/E or multiple of 20, it would indicate that investors would be willing to pay $20 for $1 of current earnings. In a chart, the P/E is determined by dividing the current stock price, by the earnings per share from the previous four financial quarters. Read the daily statistics. The daily information of the stock will tell you the volume traded the previous day, the starting and closing price, along with the net change. The chart will also show you the highest and lowest prices at which the stock was traded on the previous day. If the stock closed either up or down by more than 5%, that stock will be shown as bold in the chart. This is an easy way to pick up the stocks that made the biggest moves, up or down, in the previous day's trading. Keep in mind that, even after the markets close, stock prices continue to fluctuate. This is because shares of stock are traded in other markets around the world 24/7. | Identify the chart. Choose a time window. Note the summary key. Track the prices. Note the volume traded. Look at the moving averages. Identify the stock. Note the long term price changes. Check the price/earnings ratio. Read the daily statistics. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Identify-Spider-Egg-Sacs | How to Identify Spider Egg Sacs | To identify spider egg sacs, start by looking at the shape of the object. If it's a round ball or a tiny ball with spikes all over it, it could be a spider egg sac. Also, check to see how big the object is. Spider egg sacs are typically smaller than a quarter. The color of spider egg sacs are typically white or off-white, though some may be brown, yellow, or yellowish-green. You can also look around to see if a spider web is nearby since spiders often leave their egg sacs with their webs. | Notice the shape and texture. To determine if what you are looking at is a spider egg sac, consider the shape and texture. Spiders create egg sacs out of silk webbing, so the shape and texture may vary depending on the type of spider that created it. Some common spider egg sacs shapes include: round ball a disc with a rounded part in the middle squishy pillow fluffy mass of silk a ball with tiny spikes all over it Observe the size of the sac. Spider egg sacs are small. They are often smaller than a quarter. Observe the size of the sac (or sacs) to determine if it might have been made by a spider. For example, if you find something that is the size of a soccer ball, then this is not likely to be a spider egg sac. However, if you find something the size of a dime, then there is a good chance that it is a spider egg sac. A spider egg sac will be about as big as the spider that made it. For example, if you have spiders in your area that are about the size of golf balls, then the spider egg sacs may be about the same size. Keep in mind that some spiders make just one egg sac, while others make several small ones. Look at the color. Most spiders create egg sacs that are white or off-white. However, this is not true of all egg sacs. Some eggs sacs are brown, yellow, or even yellowish-green. Observe the color to determine if what you are looking at might be a spider egg sac. For example, if the color of the sac is pink or black, then it is probably not a spider egg sac. Pay attention to the location. While some spiders carry their egg sacs around with them, most spiders leave their egg sacs suspended in a web. If you have spotted something that you think might be a spider egg sac, check to see if it is suspended in a web or attached to a wall or other surface with some silk webbing. Some species of spider lay their eggs in sacs that are on the ground, so there might not always be visible webbing. Check for baby spiders. The presence of baby spiders can also indicate that you have found an egg sac. Female spiders can lay hundreds of eggs in an egg sac, and when the eggs hatch, lots of tiny spiders may start crawling out of the sac. If you see any small, pale-colored spiders crawling around what you think might be an egg sac, then it probably is one. Note the pattern. Different kinds of spiders weave different kinds of webs. Observing the web will not be possible in all cases, as not all spiders leave their egg sacs in their webs. However, if you can't tell what kind of spider you're dealing with just by looking at the egg sac, then it is a good idea to check out the web. Common spider web patterns include: Orbs. Circular patterned webs. Cobwebs or tangle. Messy looking fluffy webs that often appear in the corners of ceilings. Funnels. Webs in the shape of a tunnel that are located in low-traffic areas. Sheet webs. Flat sheet-like or bowl-shaped webs. Wooly webs. Slightly sticky webs with an indistinct shape. See where the web is located. Spiders make their homes in all sorts of places. You might find a web in a hole in a brick wall, the corner of a room, a tree, or a pile of dead leaves. Considering the location of a web will help you narrow down the possibilities for what type of spider's eggs you are looking at. For example, tarantulas often live in burrows in the ground with a thin web covering the opening, disc web spiders often make their small grey webs on tree bark and brick walls, and comb footed spiders often make their webs in houseplants. Get a good look if you can. Because many types of spider egg sacs look similar, it can be difficult to identify one without seeing the spider that left it. Some spiders lay their eggs and then depart, in which case you won't see them around, but a number of them will stay close and protect the eggs until they hatch. If you do find the spider that made the egg sac you are trying to identify, getting a good look at the spider is your best chance at getting an accurate identification. Pay attention to the coloration. Spiders come in many different colors and patterns. Some, like the distinctive Black and Yellow Garden Spider, are immediately recognizable, while others are more common looking. Try to notice the details. For example, if the spider is brown, what shade of brown is it? Does it have any other markings? Is it the same shade of brown over her entire body? Notice the hair. All spiders are covered with small hairs, but this is not always noticeable. If you do see hairs on a spider, try to think of how you would describe them. For example, does this spider have hairs that are visible from a distance, like the Bold Jumping Spider, or are the hairs practically invisible even up close, like the hairs on a Brown Recluse? Gauge its size. Many people are afraid of spiders, so it can be easy to mentally exaggerate how large one is. However, getting an accurate way to describe the size of the spider may make it easier for you to identify it. Try to be objective. Is the spider the size of a pencil eraser? A quarter? A golf ball? Your fist? Most species of spiders have an average size range in inches or centimeters. Try to estimate its size in inches or centimeters to help you as you try to identify it. | Notice the shape and texture. Observe the size of the sac. Look at the color. Pay attention to the location. Check for baby spiders. Note the pattern. See where the web is located. Get a good look if you can. Pay attention to the coloration. Notice the hair. Gauge its size. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Recognize-a-Leaking-Heart-Valve | How to Recognize a Leaking Heart Valve | If you're experiencing symptoms like chest pain or pressure, heartburn, or shortness of breath, you may have a leaking heart valve. Since this can lead to a heart attack, call emergency medical responders to be safe. Your doctor will most likely diagnose your condition by listening to your heart, but may need to take measurements and images to determine which valves are leaking. If your symptoms include heart palpitations when you lie on your left side, chest congestion, and fluid buildup in your feet and ankles, you might have a mitral regurgitation, which can be treated with blood pressure medicine in mild cases. However, if your symptoms include a heart murmur when the left ventricle relaxes, heart palpitations, or heart failure, you may have an aortic valve regurgitation and need surgery. | Call emergency medical responders if you are having a heart attack. Heart attacks can produce similar symptoms to heart valve leaks. In addition, a leaky heart valve can cause a heart attack. If you are unsure whether or not you are having a heart attack, you should call emergency medical responders to be safe. Heart attack symptoms include: Chest pain or pressure Pain that travels to your neck, jaw, down the arm, or back Feeling that you will vomit Abdominal discomfort, especially in the upper central (epigastric) region Heartburn or indigestion Shortness of breath Sweating Exhaustion Lightheadedness or dizziness Go to the doctor if you might have a mitral regurgitation. This valve is the one that leaks most frequently. In this condition, when the left ventricle contracts, blood travels both into the aorta and back into the chamber it came from (the atrium). This can increase the amount of blood in the left atrium, create more pressure in the pulmonary veins, and produce fluid build-up in the lungs. If your condition is mild, you may not notice any symptoms. If your condition is severe, you may experience: Heart palpitations when you lie on your left side Shortness of breath Coughing Chest congestion Fluid buildup in your feet and ankles Dizziness Chest pain Heart failure Visit your doctor if you think you have aortic valve regurgitation. When the left ventricle relaxes, blood is supposed to travel out of the heart into the aorta. But if the valve leaks, it also returns to the left ventricle. This can increase the amount of blood in the left ventricle, causing it to thicken and pump less efficiently. The walls of the aorta may also develop weak areas that may swell. Aortic valve regurgitation can be a congenital condition or be caused by high blood pressure, an infection, or injury to the valve. Symptoms include: A heart murmur when the left ventricle relaxes Heart palpitations Heart failure Discuss pulmonary regurgitation with your doctor. Blood travels through the pulmonary valve as it goes from the heart to the lungs. If the valve leaks, some blood returns to the heart instead of going to the lungs. This condition is rare, but can be caused by congenital heart problems, high blood pressure, rheumatic fever, or a heart infection. Not everyone has symptoms. If you do, they may include: A murmur between heartbeats Enlarged lower right chamber of the heart Chest pain Exhaustion Dizziness Passing out Heart failure Ask your doctor about tricuspid valve regurgitation. You have tricuspid valve regurgitation if some of the blood flows backward into the right atrium instead of going to the lungs when the right ventricle contracts. This can be caused by an enlarged ventricle, emphysema, pulmonary stenosis, an infection of the tricuspid valve, a weak or injured tricuspid valve, tumors, rheumatoid arthritis, or rheumatic fever. Diet pills containing phentermine, fenfluramine, or dexfenfluramine may significantly raise your risk of tricuspid regurgitation. Symptoms may include: Weakness Exhaustion Swelling in the legs and feet Abdominal bloating Decreased urination Pulsing veins in the neck Ask your cardiologist to listen to your heart. The cardiologist can obtain a great deal of information by listening to the sound and timing of the blood flowing through your heart. Many valve leaks produce heart murmurs, which are atypical sounds as the blood travels through your heart. The cardiologist will evaluate: The sounds of the blood flowing through your heart. If you have a heart murmur, the doctor will consider how loud it is and when during the heart beat it occurs. This can help the doctor determine how serious your valve leak is and where in the heart it is located. Your medical history, including any conditions that might make you more likely to develop leaky heart valves. This includes infections of the heart, injuries to the heart, high blood pressure, or a genetic predisposition to heart problems. Let your cardiologist take measurements and images of your heart. This can help identify where the leaky valve is and how severe it is. This is important for determining the cause of the leak and creating a treatment plan. You cardiologist may want you to have: An echocardiogram. This exam uses sound waves to create a picture of your heart. The doctor can see if your heart is enlarged and see whether the valves have structural problems. The doctor will take measurements of the parts of the anatomy, and how well they are working. The test is typically less than 45 minutes long. The doctor or technician will put some gel on your chest and then move an ultrasound device over your chest. It is noninvasive and won't hurt. It is also not dangerous for you. An electrocardiogram (ECG). This test records the strength and timing of the electrical impulses that make your heartbeat. It is noninvasive, won't hurt, and is not harmful for you. The doctor or technician will put electrodes on your skin which will enable a machine to read and measure the electrical signals of your heartbeat. This test can detect an irregular heartbeat. A chest X-ray. X-rays do not hurt. They travel through your body without you feeling it and create an image of your heart. The doctor may be able to identify if parts of your heart are enlarged. You will need to wear a lead apron to protect your reproductive organs during this procedure. Cardiac catheterization. This test is invasive. A small catheter enters a vein or artery and then is inserted into the chambers of your heart. The catheter measures the pressure in the different areas of your heart. This information can be helpful in diagnosing valve problems. Reduce your salt intake. A low-salt diet can help lower your blood pressure, which will in turn reduce the strain on your heart. It will not repair a defective valve, but it can reduce the likelihood that it will get worse. Even if surgery isn't necessary for you, your doctor may still recommend you eat a low-salt diet. Depending on how high your blood pressure is, your doctor may want you to reduce your salt intake to 2,300 or even 1,500 mg per day. Some people eat as much as 3,500 mg per day. You can reduce your salt intake by avoiding salted processed foods and canned foods with salt added. Avoid adding table salt to your food, salting meat when you cook it, or salting rice and pasta water. Lower your heart attack risk with medications. Which medications your doctor recommends will depend on your particular situation and medical history. If you are at a high risk of having blood clots or high blood pressure, your doctor will probably prescribe medications for those conditions. Medications will not repair a leaky valve, but they can improve conditions that make the leakage worse, like high blood pressure. Possible medications include: Angiotensin-converting enzyme (ACE) inhibitors. These are common blood pressure medications for mild mitral regurgitation. Anticoagulants such as aspirin, warfarin (Coumadin, Jantoven) and clopidogrel (Plavix). Blood clots can cause strokes and heart attacks. These medications reduce the probability that you will develop a blood clot. Diuretics. These medications prevent you from retaining too much water. If poor circulation is causing your legs, ankles and feet to swell, you may be prescribed diuretics. They will also reduce your blood pressure. Diuretics can be used to relieve swelling caused by a tricuspid regurgitation. Statins. These medications lower cholesterol. High cholesterol is often associated with high blood pressure and it may exacerbate the leakage. Beta blockers. Beta blockers reduce the rate and force at which your heart beats. This reduces your blood pressure and can reduce the strain on your heart. Repair a leaking valve. The standard way to repair a faulty valve is through surgery. If you have a valve repaired, be sure to go to a cardiac surgeon who specializes in valve repair. This will give you the best chances for a successful surgery. Valves can be repaired through: Annuloplasty. If you have structural problems with the tissue around the valve, it can be reinforced by implanting a ring around the valve. Surgery on the valve itself or the supporting tissues. If the valve itself has been damaged through infection or injury, it may be necessary to repair the valve itself to stop the leak. Transcatheter Aortic Valve Replacement (TAVR). This is a newer, minimally invasive option for people who are unable to undergo open chest surgery. Instead of removing the faulty valve, a replacement valve is placed inside it via a catheter. The new valve is expanded and begins functioning in place of the old valve. Get a new valve if yours can’t be fixed. Aortic and mitral regurgitation are common reasons for valve replacement. The first choice is generally to use as much of your own tissue as possible, but if that isn't an option, your surgeon may recommend using tissue from a heart donor, an animal, or a metal valve. Metal valves last the longest, but increase your risk of blood clots. If you have a metal valve, you will need to take anticoagulants for the rest of your life. The new valve can be implanted using different techniques: : A transcatheter aortic valve replacement. This method is used for replacing the aortic valve and has the benefit that it is less invasive than open-heart surgery. A catheter is inserted either through an artery in your leg or a cut in your chest and then used to insert the new valve. Open-heart surgery. Heart valve surgery can prolong the life of your heart tissues and improve your quality of life. Most surgeries are successful and any complications are usually effectively managed (there is a 5% mortality rate). Possible complications include bleeding, a heart attack, an infection, an irregular heartbeat, or a stroke. If you need heart surgery, go to a specialist who is extremely experienced in the procedure you require. Ask your cardiologist for recommendations. | Call emergency medical responders if you are having a heart attack. Go to the doctor if you might have a mitral regurgitation. Visit your doctor if you think you have aortic valve regurgitation. Discuss pulmonary regurgitation with your doctor. Ask your doctor about tricuspid valve regurgitation. Ask your cardiologist to listen to your heart. Let your cardiologist take measurements and images of your heart. Reduce your salt intake. Lower your heart attack risk with medications. Repair a leaking valve. Get a new valve if yours can’t be fixed. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Recognize-Hepatitis-A-Symptoms | How to Recognize Hepatitis A Symptoms | If you've been exposed to hepatitis A, you may develop flu-like symptoms like fever, tiredness, low appetite, and vomiting or nausea. However, keep in mind that it might take several weeks to develop symptoms, since the incubation period for the infection is between 15 and 50 days. In addition to flu-like symptoms, you might also experience upper abdominal pain and pain in your joints and muscles. Watch for jaundice, dark urine, and pale or clay-colored stools too. If you've noticed symptoms of hepatitis A, go to a doctor for a diagnosis and treatment. | Get medical help if you’re jaundiced. Hep A has a discrete onset of flu-like symptoms such as fever, headache, malaise, anorexia, nausea, vomiting, diarrhea and abdominal pain and sometimes followed by jaundice, dark-colored urine and clay-colored stools. Jaundice is yellowing of the skin, mucous membranes, or sclera (whites of the eyes) that often appears two to three weeks after onset of flu-like symptoms and post resolution of an active illness. Jaundice is caused by excess bilirubin in the body. Bilirubin is a yellow-orange pigment in bile made by the liver when red blood cells are broken down. High bilirubin in the body indicates a problem with the liver. The easiest place to notice jaundice at home is yellowing of the whites of the eyes. See your doctor if you may have been exposed to Hepatitis A and feel like you have the flu. The incubation period for Hepatitis A is 15 to 50 days, with an average of 28 days, so you won't feel sick until two weeks or longer after exposure to the virus. Some generic symptoms occur with a variety of illnesses, but if you experience these and are at-risk for Hepatitis A exposure, be suspicious of infection and see your doctor: Rapid onset of fever. Malaise or fatigue. Low appetite. Nausea or vomiting. Evaluate your pains. Abdominal pain and joint pain can also occur as symptoms of Hepatitis A. See your provider if you experience these along with other symptoms or risk factors. Seek care if your urine and stool look different than usual. Dark urine and clay-colored, pale stools are other symptoms of Hepatitis A that are less frequent in more common illnesses. Understand which risk factors matter for you. The symptoms of Hepatitis A can be mild, lasting one to two weeks, to severe, lasting several months. Symptoms can also be non-existent (especially in the young children under six years of age), or they can more severe, especially in adults. There are risk factors that make some people much more likely to contract Hepatitis A than others. Know your risk factors and be better able to recognize Hepatitis A. Know where it’s risky to travel. Those who live in or travel to Africa, Asia, Central or South America, or Eastern Europe are most likely to come in contact with Hepatitis A, where there is intermediate to high prevalence of the virus. Therefore, if you plan to travel to the areas of the world where Hep A is endemic, get vaccinated. Two doses spaced six to 12 months apart are required. You can contract the illness even if you use good hygiene and stay in fancy hotels. Tell your doctor if you’re in a high-risk group. Hepatitis A is contracted through person-to-person contact or by ingesting contaminated food or water. You are at higher risk and should inform your doctor if: You live with or take care of someone with Hepatitis A, or adopted a child from a country with high incidence of the illness. You are a man who has sexual contact with other men. You use illegal drugs, injected or not. You have a clotting-factor disorder such as hemophilia. You have sexual contact with someone who has Hepatitis A. Your work puts you at risk for contact, such as a research lab or healthcare professional. Ask your doctor if you should get the vaccine. There is a Hepatitis A vaccine available for children over one year old, and a combined Hepatitis A and B vaccine available for adults over 18. There is no serious risk associated with getting the vaccine, and the most common side effect is tenderness at the injection site. Discuss risk factors with your provider to determine if you should be vaccinated to prevent Hepatitis A. Get tested immediately if you think you’ve been exposed. If you may have encountered Hepatitis A and have not been vaccinated, your doctor can accurately diagnose you with a simple blood test for Hepatitis antibodies and immunoglobulins. Your healthcare provider can give you a dose of Hepatitis A vaccine or immunoglobulin to limit the length and severity of the infection, but this only helps if it is within two weeks from exposure. Let your doctor rule out more serious illnesses. Almost everyone recovers fully from Hepatitis A. In rare cases, however, untreated Hepatitis A can lead to permanent liver damage including fulminant hepatitis and acute liver failure. This is uncommon but more likely in adults over 50 years old and those with underlying liver disease. Hepatitis B and Hepatitis C can cause similar symptoms to Hepatitis A, and you cannot tell the difference just from how you feel. Hepatitis B and C can be more serious and chronic illnesses that require different treatment, so a correct diagnosis is important. Seek medical care immediately if you suspect a child is infected. Children under six years old are most likely to have an asymptomatic infection. If an unvaccinated child under six has been exposed to the virus, it is best they get tested. The severity of symptoms worsens with increasing age. Adults over age 50 are at higher risk of severe symptoms and complications. | Get medical help if you’re jaundiced. See your doctor if you may have been exposed to Hepatitis A and feel like you have the flu. Evaluate your pains. Seek care if your urine and stool look different than usual. Understand which risk factors matter for you. Know where it’s risky to travel. Tell your doctor if you’re in a high-risk group. Ask your doctor if you should get the vaccine. Get tested immediately if you think you’ve been exposed. Let your doctor rule out more serious illnesses. Seek medical care immediately if you suspect a child is infected. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Know-if-You-Are-Asexual | How to Know if You Are Asexual | While every asexual person is different, there are some patterns that may help guide you as you figure out if you're asexual. For example, you might not think about sex very much or even understand the appeal of it. Additionally, it may be hard for you to understand why some people are considered “hot” or why someone would want to have sex with another person. If you've had sexual experiences, consider if you felt let down, thought it was more weird than exciting, or would rather have been doing something else, all of which could indicate that you're asexual. | Notice if you don’t think about sex very often. Think about how often you think about sex, and for how long you think about sex. As an asexual, you might find that sex doesn't really interest you. You might go days, weeks, or even years without thinking about sex. For example, you might not be able to remember the last time you had a sexual thought. Similarly, you may realize that you occasionally think about sex when people bring it up, but it quickly leaves your mind. Pay attention to how you feel when others make sexual comments. It's common for people to talk about sex on TV, and you probably have friends who talk about sex. Think about how you feel when these topics come up. If you're asexual, you might notice the following: You get bored when people talk about their crush, their sexual desire, or their sexual experiences. Your mind wanders when people talk about sex. You don't understand what makes someone “hot.” You pretend to be interested in sex to fit in. Think about how you react to sexually suggestive material. This includes things like sexy pictures, sex scenes in movies, and porn. Consider if you lack the desire to look at these materials. Then, think about how you react when you see them. You may be asexual if you don't find these items stimulating and don't understand why people do. For instance, you might not understand why people like porn. You may find it boring or gross instead of arousing. You may feel bored or uncomfortable during sex scenes in movies. You may not get aroused when you see someone in revealing clothing. Reflect on whether or not you enjoyed any prior sexual encounters. You can still be asexual even if you've had sex before. In this case, think about how you felt about your sexual experience, why you did it, and if you'd do it again. For instance, you might still be asexual if any of the following apply: You may have felt like you were supposed to have sex or that you'd like it if you tried it. You've never wanted to initiate sex. You may have had sex and realized you didn't enjoy it. Sex might feel weird to you instead of fun. You may have felt like you were just going through the motions. You might find most other activities to be more fun than sex. Decide if you’d rather masturbate than have sex. You can be asexual and enjoy masturbation. You might get sexually aroused but not be attracted to other people. It's normal to feel this way. If you enjoy masturbation but think you might be asexual, consider if you may just enjoy taking care of your own sexual needs. Talk to your doctor if you think you may have a medical issue impacting your interest or experience with sex. While asexuality is a normal, healthy sexual orientation, some mental and physical disorders can cause low libido or disinterest in sex. Visit your doctor if you're concerned that your feelings toward sex are related to an underlying condition. Then, you can decide if you want to treat your condition. For instance, you might have 1 of the following: Body dysmorphia is when you're consumed by negative thoughts about your body or perceived flaws. Anyone can develop body dysmorphia, but it's especially common with people who are transgender. If you have body dysmorphia, it may be hard for you to imagine or feel confident having sex with someone. Sexual dysfunction disorders cover a wide range of symptoms. Treatment is optional, depending on what the patient wants. Complex PTSD is a trauma response that can cause you to withdraw and be afraid to open up. You may have no desire for sexual relationships. With therapy, your sexual feelings may return. Recognize the difference between romantic orientation and sexual orientation. Don't assume that you can't be romantic if you're asexual. You can be asexual and still feel romantic attraction to someone. You may enjoy holding hands, cuddling, talking, sharing meals, and even kissing. Additionally, you can form a deep, lasting bond with someone. You may also be aromantic, which means you don't have romantic feelings. This means you may prefer to just enjoy friendships and familial relationships. It's common for people who are asexual to be panromantic, which means you can fall in love with anyone regardless of gender. You may develop romantic feelings for someone of the same gender or of a different gender. Notice the difference between aesthetic, sensual, and sexual attraction. There are different types of attraction, and sometimes that can be confusing. Aesthetic attraction is when you think someone looks good but don't necessarily feel sexually interested in them. Sensual attraction is when you want to cuddle, kiss, or be close to someone. Sexual attraction happens when you have the desire to have sexual contact with someone. Understand that you can have aesthetic and sensual attraction to someone and still be asexual. If you're aesthetically attracted to someone, you might think, “Her face is so beautiful.” However, you have no desire to be intimate. With sensual attraction, you might think, “This person is attractive and fun to be around. I want to cuddle and hold hands with them.” If it's sexual attraction, you might find the person attractive and want to have sex with them. Watch for signs that you may be gray-asexual or demisexual. Both gray-asexuality and demisexuality are part of the asexual spectrum. You may be gray-asexual if you have some sexual interest or occasionally feel attracted to someone. Similarly, you might be demisexual if you feel sexual attraction to someone only after you've developed a deep emotional connection with them. If you're conflicted about whether or not you may be asexual, consider if these labels might better reflect your sexual identity. To figure out if you're gray-asexual, think about times you've been attracted to someone or that you've gotten aroused by something sexual. This could be a sign of gray-asexuality. If you suspect you may be demisexual, consider if you've only been attracted to someone you love or deeply like. For instance, you might develop sexual feelings for someone you've dated for a long time but not be sexually attracted to anyone else. Accept that your asexual identity is totally normal. While people may not understand asexuality, it's a normal sexual identity that is just part of who you are. Don't worry about trying to change yourself. Instead, embrace your asexuality as apart of what makes you a unique, interesting person and be confident in who you are. There's nothing wrong or bad about being disinterested in sex. It's okay to question your sexual identity and be uncertain about how you feel. Take as much time as you need to understand yourself. You're not obligated to fulfill someone else's stereotype or desires. You don't need to have sex to prove something or make someone else happy. Recognize that every asexual person is unique. You may relate to some traits of asexuality but not others and still be considered asexual. Asexuality is a spectrum, so you may think differently about sex than others. Here are some examples: You may be grossed out by sex, find it boring, or think it's mildly enjoyable. You may want to never have sex or may like doing it because your partner enjoys it. You may not get sexually aroused at all, but it's possible that you sometimes will. You may enjoy masturbating, you may use it as a release, or you might dislike masturbation. Join a support network if you want help understanding your identity. Learning more about asexuality can help you better understand yourself. Plus, it can empower you to share your identity with your friends, family, and romantic partners. Look for a support group online to connect with others who share your sexual identity. For instance, join Asexuality Visibility & Education Network (AVEN). Take as much time as you need to decide your sexual identity. While some people instinctively know their sexual identity, it's normal to go through a period of questioning and discovery. This can last as long as you need to figure out your preferences. Don't rush to label your identity or feel pressured to explain yourself. Continue learning about yourself and how you feel, and you'll figure out your sexual identity when you're ready. It's okay to experiment with sexuality to find out if you like it, but don't feel pressured to do it. Take your time and only do what feels comfortable to you. | Notice if you don’t think about sex very often. Pay attention to how you feel when others make sexual comments. Think about how you react to sexually suggestive material. Reflect on whether or not you enjoyed any prior sexual encounters. Decide if you’d rather masturbate than have sex. Talk to your doctor if you think you may have a medical issue impacting your interest or experience with sex. Recognize the difference between romantic orientation and sexual orientation. Notice the difference between aesthetic, sensual, and sexual attraction. Watch for signs that you may be gray-asexual or demisexual. Accept that your asexual identity is totally normal. Recognize that every asexual person is unique. Join a support network if you want help understanding your identity. Take as much time as you need to decide your sexual identity. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Make-Baskets | How to Make Baskets | To make a basket with newspaper, first roll newspaper around a long, thin rod and glue it in place before removing the rod. Then, make a base from cardboard and fabric, and lay out your newspaper "sticks" in a spoke pattern on the base to make the uprights that will be the frame of your basket. Next, weave the sticks in and out of the uprights, adding sticks by putting the end of one tube into the beginning of the next. Keep weaving newspaper sticks in and out around the uprights until you reach the height you want, then finish your basket by gluing down the tops of the uprights. | Make the base of the basket. You'll need to lay out 5 reeds parallel to one another, with about 3/8ths of a space between them. Weave a sixth reed perpendicularly through the other 5. Bring the sixth reed over the first reed, under the second, over the third, under the fourth and over the fifth reed. Weave 4 more reeds in this manner, making sure that they are parallel to the sixth reed. Ensure that the squares formed by the base weaving are no bigger than 3/8 inch (.9 cm). Bend the reeds. Bend the reeds that stick out from the square base into an upwards position. These bent reeds are called spokes. Bending them will make it easier to weave and these spokes will act as the supports for the basket. Split a center spoke. Split one end of either the third or eighth spoke, starting where it comes out from under the last spoke to cross it. You will now have eleven spokes. You'll be putting the weaver into the split. Weave the basket. Put the tapered end (the smaller end) of a weaver reed into the split spoke and hold it in place with a clothespin. Keep the weaver reed near the base of the basket and weave, by going over one spoke and under the next. If you're going for a square shape, hold the base corners together with clothespins. This will help maintain the shape of the base. Continue to attach and weave new reeds through the spokes for 3 or 4 rows, depending on the desired height of the basket. Each new reed should be stacked above the reed woven before it. Do your best to make the weave snug and tight, but not too tight or you can screw up the base of the basket. You, also, want to make sure that the weave isn't too loose. Foot the base. This means closing up those square holes that are still in the base. Starting in the left corner of your basket, take the corner spoke and tug it gently. Tug more firmly on the second spoke. You want to tug quite firmly on the middle spoke because this will create an arch in the bottom of the basket. Move to the 4th spoke and tug gently again. Straighten your spokes and repeat on all 4 sides of the basket, until the holes in the base are closed. Continue weaving. Keep attaching and weaving new reeds through the spokes. Make sure that you don't pull too hard on the corners, because that will make your spokes bend inward and you'll lose your basket's shape. You also don't want your corners to be too loose, which can happen if you aren't keeping your spokes upright and parallel while you weave. Stop weaving once you've reached your desired height. Pack the base. Push or pull the woven rows down towards the base as you weave. Ensure that there is no space between the base and the rows. Start pressing or pulling from the base and move up to the newer reeds as you go. A properly packed basket should have a nicely arched base, straight, parallel spokes, properly spaced corners, and tight weaver rows. Finish the top of the basket. Stop weaving your last reed after you have woven 4 spokes past the split spoke. Taper the reed with scissors, moving from the fourth spoke to the end of the reed. Weave until all of the final reed has been woven into the spokes. Trim the basket. Cut the spokes with scissors. The spokes should be 1/2 to 2 inches (1.3 to 5 cm) higher than the last woven reed. Fold the spokes towards the inside of the basket over the top row of reeds. Insert the end of each spoke into the third row from the top. Ensure that each spoke lies flat against the inside of the basket. Make the rim. You'll wrap a reed around the top row of the basket and pin it to the basket with a clothespin. Now, anchor the new reed by weaving its bottom end into the top few rows inside the basket. This reed is called the lacer. Bring the lacer up and over the reed pinned to the basket and insert it through the front of the basket into the woven rows. Now pull the lacer inside the basket. Continue wrapping the lacer around the pinned reed, circling the circumference of the basket. Glue the end of the lacer inside the basket. Make your newspaper sticks. You'll use these rolled up sections of newspaper as the spokes and weavers for your basket. Get a thin stick, like a thin knitting needle or a pine skewer or 3mm dowel. Cut the newspaper in half horizontally and then again horizontally. Place the stick at a corner of the piece of newspaper at an acute angle to the newspaper. Start rolling the newspaper around the stick, making sure that you're doing so tightly. When you've rolled it all the way to the other corner, glue it onto the newspaper roll to hold it in place. Remove the dowel or knitting needle. One end will usually be a bit narrower than the other on the newspaper sticks, but that's how it is supposed to look. When you're weaving you'll stick the narrower section of one newspaper stick into another to make them longer. Make the base. Cut out two rectangular pieces of cardboard whatever size you want your basket to be. On one side of one of the cardboard pieces, put double sided tape. Lay out your newspaper sticks along the sides (you'll want to do about 13 on the long side and 7 on the short size). Always use an odd number of sticks when making your base. Use double sided tape on the second piece of cardboard and press into place a piece of fabric, whatever color you'd like. Put glue on the side that won't be facing out and glue the two pieces of cardboard (one with the fabric and one with the sticks) together. Put something heavy on them and leave to dry (about and hour). Begin weaving. Start at one of the corners. Take a newspaper stick (a weaver) and fold it in half. Thread it around the corner stick. Using each half of the weaver weave around the upright sticks, with one half of the stick and the other half in back. Keep the upright sticks parallel to one another and pulled upright, and keep the weavers pulled tight. You don't want them too loose. At the corners you'll want to do an extra twist (over and under) before continuing the twist down the next side. Make the newspaper stick longer. As you reach the end of a tube, you'll need to add another stick to it, so that you can keep going. This is a lot easier than it sounds! All you have to do is insert the narrow end of the second stick into the first and push it in enough that it is secure. Finish the basket. Once you've added rows until you've reached the height you want, it's time to finish the basket. This is very easy. Cut the leftover upright newspaper sticks to about 1 inch (2.54 cm). For every other upright stick you'll fold into down into the basket and glue it in place. Use a clothespin to dry it in place. For the sticks you didn't fold into the basket, you'll fold down on the outside and weave into the upper part of the basket. Paint it. This is a completely optional step, as newspaper baskets look cool just as they are, but you can also paint them a color of your choosing. You could use a white acrylic paint and add a tinted varnish (which makes them look like a more 'authentic' basket), or you could use a bright, bold spray paint. | Make the base of the basket. Bend the reeds. Split a center spoke. Weave the basket. Foot the base. Continue weaving. Pack the base. Finish the top of the basket. Trim the basket. Make the rim. Make your newspaper sticks. Make the base. Begin weaving. Make the newspaper stick longer. Finish the basket. Paint it. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Care-for-an-FIV-Infected-Cat | How to Care for an FIV Infected Cat | To care for a FIV infected cat, feed it a nutritious diet of dry kibble, which is less likely to cause build-up on its teeth and lead to infections. Additionally, try to boost your cat's vitamins by giving it vitamin E, Vitamin A, or zinc. Make sure to stick to a routine, like feeding it at the same time each day. You'll also need to get your cat vaccinated every year, since FIV positive cats get sick easily. | Feed your FIV positive cat a nutritious diet. It is important to give your cat a good diet in order to keep him or her as healthy as possible despite the FIV. Ask your veterinarian about good, quality brands of cat food. Feed your cat dry kibble. Dry kibble is the best food you can feed your cat, as wet food has a tendency to build up on teeth, causing tartar buildup that can lead to infections. Your primary goal should be to do everything you can to keep your cat infection-free because FIV causes it to be very susceptible to infections. Feed your cat food that is appropriate for its age. Vets often recommend life-stage diets from Hills, Purina, and Royal Canin. These diets provide for the specific nutritional needs of young animals (under 12 months of age), adults (classed as 1 – 7 years), and senior animals (over the age of 7 years). Matching the life-stage diet to the age of your cat can promote longevity. Get your cat vaccinated regularly. FIV causes your cat's immune system to become weak, which means that it is very susceptible to other illnesses, like cat flu. Because of this, it's important that you get your cat vaccinated against illnesses every year. Talk to your vet about which vaccines to give your cat, as some diseases are more common in certain areas than others. Your vet will most likely suggest that you get your cat vaccinated against feline distemper and other cat viruses. Keep your cat parasite-free. A FIV-infected cat's body is less likely to handle infections well. FIV-infected cats also need all the nutrients that they can get and many parasites will rob your cat's body of those nutrients. You need to treat your cat for both internal and external parasites. Control worms (internal parasites) with milbemax (containing milbemycin.) This wormer is effective against all classes of worms. Indoor cats should be dosed once every three to four months. Cats allowed outdoor access, especially those that hunt rodents, should be wormed monthly. External parasites such as fleas and ticks can also compromise your cat's health. Vets often recommend Stronghold (UK)/ Revolution (US). This external parasite medication combats all external parasites in the same way that milbemax fights internal parasites. Boost your cat’s immune system with vitamins it can eat. It is a good idea to boost its immune system with vitamins. You can give your cat vitamin E, vitamin A, vitamin C, selenium, and zinc. Talk to your vet about the proper dose for your specific cat. Your vet will most likely recommend something along the lines of 3 to 5 ml of LC-vit daily or 5 ml of Nutri-Plus Gel daily. Talk to your vet about giving your cat injectable vitamins. If your cat is very weak and has a hard time eating, you should consider giving him or her injectable vitamins to boost its health. Again, it is always important to talk to your vet before giving your cat any supplements or medication. An injectable supplement that is often recommended by vets is Coforta, which is injected at 0.5ml to 2.5 ml per cat once a day for 5 days during a single treatment period. Give your cat L-lysine supplements. L-lysine is a supplement that can help prevent flare-ups of infections that are common in FIV-positive cats. L-lysine aids in protein synthesis and is involved in tissue repair and maintenance. The recommended dose is generally 500 mg daily mixed with food. Talk to your vet before giving your cat supplements. Consider interferon treatment for your FIV-positive cat. In interferon therapy, your cat is injected intravenously with interferons, substances that are part of the immune system and help to fight viral and bacterial infections. By increasing the number of interferons in your cat's body, your cat becomes more resistant to infections, which means that it has a better chance of living a long, happy life. Interferons are speciality medications that are veterinarian administered. They can be costly, but studies have shown they have minimal side effects in cats. Seek veterinary help if your cat shows signs of illness. FIV-positive cats have a much harder time fighting off infections and other illnesses. Because of this, it is best to take your cat into the vet as soon as you notice that it is sick, rather than waiting to see if the situation will resolve itself. Generally, your cat will simply need to be put on antibiotics to help his or her body fight the infections. You should always be on the look out for signs that your cat is feeling unwell, including: Coughing. Sneezing. Runny eyes or nose. Decreased appetite. Increased thirst. Vomiting or diarrhea. Minimize the amount of stress your cat feels. Stress can have physical effects on your cat because his or her immune system is already weak. When an animal is stressed, its body releases a natural steroid—cortisol—in order to help the body cope with the stress. Long term exposure to cortisol suppresses the immune system and, in a cat that already has a weakened immune system, this will decrease his or her limited ability to fight infection. : Keep your cat’s routine the same. Change can really stress a cat out, from having a new pet around to moving to a new house. Try to keep your cat's environment as normal as possible. Don't forget to continue to play with your cat. Give it toys and spend quality time with it as usual. You don't want to exhaust a cat with FIV but you do want to continue to enjoy the company of your pet. Use a plug-in diffuser. You can purchase diffusers that emit feline pheromones that will keep your cat calm. Vets recommend Feliway, which contains a synthetic version of the pheromone (a hormone messenger) that a contented cat gives off. Feliway is odorless to people, but to cats it sends of a reassuring message that all is well with the world. Understand how FIV is transmitted. It is important to know how FIV is spread so that you can keep your FIV-free cats healthy and make sure that your FIV-positive cat still has a happy life. FIV is most commonly spread through a cat's saliva, though it can also be spread through blood and semen. The most common way for a cat to contract FIV is through getting bit by an FIV-positive cat. Keep in mind that FIV is a relatively fragile virus that cannot survive in the environment beyond a few seconds. Outside the body, FIV is rapidly damaged by drying, UV, heat, light and basic disinfectants, and poses no risk to other cats. The virus requires direct transmission from infected saliva of one cat, into the bloodstream of a healthy cat. Consider keeping your FIV-positive and FIV-negative cats separate. Studies have shown that it is not absolutely necessary to keep your healthy cats separate from your FIV-positive cats if they get along well. If your cats have a tendency to fight, however, it is a good idea to keep them separate. In studies done by the University of Glasgow, it was found that when FIV-free and FIV-positive cats were around each other, there was a 1-2% transmission rate. You will have to decide whether that 1 to 2% is too much of a risk to take. Spay or neuter your FIV-positive cat. When cats get spayed (females) or neutered (males), they become less aggressive, which means that the chances that they will get into fights is greatly reduced. If you have an FIV-positive cat that you want to remain an outdoor cat, it is a good idea to get it fixed so that it is less likely to bite another cat in a fight. Keep a male cat indoors if he is likely to get into fights with other cats. As a responsible cat owner, your priorities should be to keep your FIV-positive cat healthy, and to make sure that it does not infect any other cats. Male cats tend to roam over large distances, sometimes across several acres and are likely to encounter other cats on their travels. If he is likely to scrap with these cats, then it is essential to keep him indoors. Keeping a territorial cat indoors might not be the most ideal situation, particularly if he is used to roaming around outside, but it might be the only way to keep him from spreading FIV to other cats in your neighborhood. Talk to a vet about the health of cats in your area, particularly if you live in a city. If you live in a city, it is a good idea to talk to a local veterinarian about the incidence of FIV in the area. If there is a large population of feral cats who are FIV-positive, you may want to keep FIV-free cats indoors but may feel alright about letting your FIV-positive cat stay an outdoor cat. If FIV is rare in a high cat density neighborhood, then, as a responsible owner, you should keep your FIV-positive pet indoors. If you live in an area with a low population of cats, such as remote countryside, then the risk of cats meeting and fighting is low, and it is acceptable to let your FIV-positive cat out. Take your cat to be examined if it gets bitten by another cat. Check your cat for bite marks regularly. You should take your cat to the vet if you notice a bite mark and at the same time that it develops a fever. FIV causes a severe fever that will last for 3 to 7 days. When you take your cat to the vet he or she will check for: Swollen lymph nodes. When cats become ill, their lymph nodes swell up. Your vet will check to see if this is occurring in your cat. White blood cell levels. FIV causes decreases in white blood cell counts. Your vet will take a blood sample to see if your cat has low white blood cell counts. Be aware that your cat will become a carrier and might not exhibit symptoms. Most cats recover from the first stage of the disease (the fever and low white blood cell counts). When they recover, they will stop exhibiting signs of illness but will still carry the disease. This period of 'health' can last for several months to several years. Doing all of the things will help lengthen your cat's life and prolong this stage in which she is just a carrier of the disease. Look for signs of terminal illness that are commonly associated with FIV. FIV causes immune deficiency that can lead to your cat developing other illnesses. You should monitor your cat for any signs of illness including : Chronic respiratory infections caused by bacteria and viruses. Gastrointestinal infections and diarrhea (Gastroenteritis). Skin lesions (sores). Mouth lesions (sores). Neurological symptoms like psychomotor problems (like trouble moving around), psychological problems, dementia, and convulsions. Weakness. Emaciation. Dull or poor coat. Chronic urinary tract infections. | Feed your FIV positive cat a nutritious diet. Feed your cat dry kibble. Feed your cat food that is appropriate for its age. Get your cat vaccinated regularly. Keep your cat parasite-free. Boost your cat’s immune system with vitamins it can eat. Talk to your vet about giving your cat injectable vitamins. Give your cat L-lysine supplements. Consider interferon treatment for your FIV-positive cat. Seek veterinary help if your cat shows signs of illness. Minimize the amount of stress your cat feels. Keep your cat’s routine the same. Use a plug-in diffuser. Understand how FIV is transmitted. Consider keeping your FIV-positive and FIV-negative cats separate. Spay or neuter your FIV-positive cat. Keep a male cat indoors if he is likely to get into fights with other cats. Talk to a vet about the health of cats in your area, particularly if you live in a city. Take your cat to be examined if it gets bitten by another cat. Be aware that your cat will become a carrier and might not exhibit symptoms. Look for signs of terminal illness that are commonly associated with FIV. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Build-a-Tumbling-Composter | How to Build a Tumbling Composter | If you want to build an on-the-ground tumbling composter, drill holes in the bottom and lid of a large trash can, then drill holes in the bottom, middle, and top of 2 long pipes. Thread a rod through the middle 2 holes in the pipe and secure the rod with nuts and bolts, then pass the bottom of the pipes through the bottom of the trash can and bolt that into place as well. Place the lid on the trash can over the pipes and bolt it into place, and use bungee cords to secure the lid further if you need to. | Gather the materials needed to build an “on-the-ground” tumbling composter. An inexpensive and less complicated way to build your own tumbling composter is by creating an “on the ground” tumbling composter, which is simply a container outfitted to hold compost that you “turn” by simply rolling the container across the ground. Purchase or obtain a large cylindrical container with a lid that fits tight. A garbage can works best, and is likely the easiest to find. Select either a plastic or metal garbage can that will hold at least 30 gallons; large containers used for composting hold 55 gallons. Wash the garbage can or container thoroughly if it has been used. Additional materials you'll need include : Two 48" lengths of 1/2" metal/aluminum pipe One 36" length of 1/4" steel threaded rod (zinc plated) Four 2" long 1/4" bolts Eight 1/4" nuts A 1/4" metal drill bit A 7/8" drill bit Drill Hacksaw Measuring tape Ear and eye protection 2 elastic bungee cords that are the same length as the can's diameter (optional) Drill two holes into the lid and bottom of your container using a 7/8” drill bit. The holes you'll drill into the lid need to be 4” from the outer edge of the lid and directly across from each other, or specifically 180 degrees apart. The holes at the bottom of the container need to be 2” from the edge. You'll need to place the holes at the bottom in a sunken part of the container's base because you'll be sticking metal or aluminum pipes through these holes and you want your tumbling composter to be able to stand upright once assembled. Create aeration holes all over your container. Drill several holes, about 15-20, into the top and bottom and along the sides of the container using your drill and a 1/4” drill bit. Space the holes evenly. The holes will allow oxygen to flow freely throughout your tumbling composter. Drill two holes straight through each end of your two metal or aluminum pipes using a 1/4" metal drill bit. Make sure to place them as close to the end of pipes as possible. Doing so will enable your tumbling composter to stand up properly. Drill two additional holes into each pipe, and then thread your rod through those holes. Once the pipes and connected rod are placed inside the container, the rod will need to rest in the middle of the container. Therefore, your two additional holes must measure at half the height of your container. Measure the height of your container and divide that measurement by two. The number you come up with will be the length you measure on your two pipes to determine where your two holes will be drilled. Use your 1/4" metal drill to drill the two holes straight through the pipe. Before you thread your rod through the new holes, it'll need to be cut down to size in order to fit inside your container. To do this, measure the diameter of the container at the point where the pipes' holes will be. You found this point earlier by dividing the height of your container by two. When you come up with the diameter of the container, cut the rod 1” shorter than that, so it'll fit easily inside the container. Slide one end of the rod through one of the pipes until the pipe is about 3” from the other end of the rod. Then screw onto the rod two of the 1/4" nuts. Start at the end of the rod that is farthest from the pole. Each nut should be about 4" from each end of the rod. Once secured, the first nut will be right next to the pole, while the second nut will be about 4" from the end of the rod. Once the second nut is secured, slide the rod through the second pipe, stopping when the pipe touches the 1/4" nut. Secure the two pipes by screwing an additional 1/4" nut on the outer edges of the rod next to each pipe. Secure the pipe and rod structure to your container. Place the structure inside the container and then turn the container on its side to make it easier to thread the ends of the pipe through the two 7/8” holes in the bottom of the container. Secure the pipes by sliding a 2” bolt through the 1/4" holes you drilled into the ends of the pipes, and then screwing two 1/4" nuts onto the ends of each bolt. Stand the container upright and then secure the lid by threading the tops of the pipes through the two 7/8” holes. You'll need to drill holes into the length of the pipes just above the lid, so that once bolted the lid will stay secure when you roll it on the ground. Use a marker to mark the spots where you'll drill your holes, and then to ensure your holes are even, disassemble your tumbling composter, and lie the pipes flat on the ground when you drill them. Drill two holes straight through each pipe using the metal 1/4" drill bit, and then reassemble your tumbling composter. Fill your tumbling composter with composting ingredients and secure the lid. To secure the lid, follow the same method used to secure the pipes to the bottom of the container. Use two bolts and nuts on each side of the bolts, after you've filled your tumbling composter with composting ingredients. Slide one bolt through each of the 1/4" holes you've just drilled, and then secure those bolts by attaching a 1/4" nut to each end of the bolts. If necessary, you can secure bungee cords over the top of the container by laying them in a crisscross pattern over the lid and securing the cords either underneath the handles of the lid or through a few newly drilled holes. Test the security of your lid by rolling your new tumbling composter across the ground. Make sure your lid is tightly secured by rolling it across the ground. If dirt begins to spill from around the top, adjust your bolts, or tighten or obtain bungee cords to further tie down your lid. Gather the materials needed to construct a “barrel-roll” tumbling composter. If you prefer to expend less energy turning your compost, building a “barrel-roll” tumbling composter will help. This type of tumbling composter sits atop a wooden structure and turns on an axle, such as a PVC or steel pipe, that runs directly through it. You'll need to purchase or obtain a plastic or steel barrel, between 20 and 55 gallons (75-200 liters), including a 48 inch (1.25 meter) length of 2 inch (5 cm) schedule 80 PVC pipe, or a length of 1 1/2 to 2 inch (3.8-5 cm) galvanized steel pipe. You'll also need: 2X4 treated lumber Nails Circular saw Jigsaw Drill motor, drill paddle bit, and drill bits Hole saw Basic hand tools (hammer, measuring tape, flexible metal ruler, framing square) Hinges Latches Door handle “L” brackets Drill holes in the center of the top and bottom of your barrel. Measure the diameter of each end of your barrel, and then divide that measurement by two to determine the center point. Your holes should be large enough to fit the pipe you'll be using as the axle. If you can, cut off a small piece of your axle pipe, place it over each center mark, and trace a circle along the outside of the pipe. If you can't, measure the diameter of your axle pipe and draw a circle of the same size around each center point. Once your circles have been created, use a drill paddle bit or hole saw of an equal size to create your holes. Drill holes into the body of the barrel for aeration. Using a 1-inch (2.5 cm) bit space 15-20 holes evenly along the sides of the barrel. This will allow oxygen to flow freely throughout the container. Create a door on the side of your barrel. Before you start cutting out a door, trace the shape of the door you want along one side of the barrel using a flexible metal ruler and a framing square. The measurements for the door will differ depending on the size of your barrel. If your barrel is on the smaller size, like 20 to 30 gallons, trace a 12” by 12” square. If it's a 55 gallon barrel, you can outline an 18” by 12” rectangle. The longer side should be parallel to the length of the barrel. Make a couple small holes in one of the corners using your drill to allow space for your jigsaw blade to start cutting. Continue to use the blade all the way around the outline of the door until the shape is removed. The door will likely be a bit flimsy once secured. If your barrel is plastic, secure two pieces of wood to the inside of the barrel, one along the side where you've placed your hatches and the other on the opposite end where you'll place your latches and handle. If your barrel is metal, use two steel plates instead of wood. Consider flattening two “L” brackets to use for your steel plates. To secure the door, install two hinges at the top corners, then install two latches at the bottom corners to lock the door. You can place a handle at the center point of the two latches to help with opening and closing the door. Attach a sheet of metal inside the barrel to act as a mixing fin to help turn the compost when the barrel rotates. A long spare piece of galvanized sheet metal bent into an “L” shape and bolted to the interior wall of the barrel will do this nicely. Put the fin opposite from the hatch, so as to weight balance the empty container. Pass the pipe or post through the center holes. When you're ready, slide the pipe through the center holes. The length of pipe sticking out of each side of the barrel should be long enough to rest each end on the wooden structure you'll create. If you're using a plastic barrel, the weight of the compost inside your tumbling composter can break the plastic , so before inserting the pipe through the holes secure two slabs of wood to the barrel to distribute the weight of the compost. Take two slabs of wood, such as 2”x4” pieces, and drill into each piece a hole large enough to fit your pipe through. Line each hole up to the holes on either end of your barrel and nail the boards to the barrel. Alternately, you can secure an “L” bracket to each side of the pipe, which will also distribute the weight of the compost. Build a wooden saw buck to support the compost barrel. Nail 2 sets of 2x4s (pieces of wood that are 1.5″ × 3.5″ or 38×89 mm in terms of height and width, respectively) in an x-frame, and nail two 2x4s across the feet at the bottom for support. Set the barrel with the pipe in the wooden 2x4 saw buck. Rotate the barrel in the sawhorse frame using the pipe or post as an axle to ensure it works properly. If it does, you can now fill your tumbling composter with leaves and other compostable material, and allow your new "garden helper" to do its job. | Gather the materials needed to build an “on-the-ground” tumbling composter. Drill two holes into the lid and bottom of your container using a 7/8” drill bit. Create aeration holes all over your container. Drill two holes straight through each end of your two metal or aluminum pipes using a 1/4" metal drill bit. Drill two additional holes into each pipe, and then thread your rod through those holes. Secure the pipe and rod structure to your container. Fill your tumbling composter with composting ingredients and secure the lid. Test the security of your lid by rolling your new tumbling composter across the ground. Gather the materials needed to construct a “barrel-roll” tumbling composter. Drill holes in the center of the top and bottom of your barrel. Drill holes into the body of the barrel for aeration. Create a door on the side of your barrel. Attach a sheet of metal inside the barrel to act as a mixing fin to help turn the compost when the barrel rotates. Pass the pipe or post through the center holes. Build a wooden saw buck to support the compost barrel. Set the barrel with the pipe in the wooden 2x4 saw buck. Rotate the barrel in the sawhorse frame using the pipe or post as an axle to ensure it works properly. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Find-a-Pet-Behaviorist-for-Your-Cat | How to Find a Pet Behaviorist for Your Cat | Before you try to find a behaviorist for your cat, identify the issues you want to address, like biting, scratching, not using a litter box, or separation anxiety, since you'll want the behaviorist to have some previous experience dealing with those issues. Then, try searching for pet behaviorists in your area online, and read reviews to find someone who seems like they'd be a good fit for your particular situation. You can also ask your vet for a referral if you can't find someone online. When you find someone you like, reach out and ask them about their prior experience, favorite treatment methods, and qualifications. Remember that a pet behaviorist should have a graduate degree in animal behavior. If someone you interview doesn't, they're probably not qualified enough. | Do a general online search. The quickest and easiest way to find pet behaviorists in your area is to do a basic online search. Search for "pet behaviorist" and the name of your area. This should give you a general list of who is working in this field near you. If you do not get many results from your search, try searching for alternate words. For instance, try searching for "veterinary behaviorist" instead of "pet behaviorist." Search the websites of professional organizations. There are professional organizations for veterinary animal behaviorists that keep lists of their members. These list can help you find someone that is actually licensed and educated in this field. For instance, the American College of Veterinary Behaviorists and the Animal Behavior Society both have online lists of members and their contact information. Ask your veterinarian for a referral. In many cases, your veterinarian will be a great source of information about specialized pet professionals in your area. Discuss your cat's specific problems with the veterinarian and then ask them for any suggestions of who to take your cat to for its problem. In many cases, it will be the veterinarian that suggests that you take your cat to a specialized cat behaviorist. In this case, they should have a suggestion for you of who to go see. Going to your veterinarian for a referral has the added benefit of making sure that your cat's behavior problem doesn't have a medical cause that can be easily treated. Tell your veterinarian about the cat's problems and then ask them if there might be a health problem at the root of the bad behavior. Ask friends and family for suggestions. If you have friends or family members that have used a pet behaviorist before, you can ask them who they used and if they liked them. At the very least, if they did not like them then you can leave that behaviorist off your list. You can even ask on social media platforms if anyone you are connected with has any recommendations. This is a good way to ask a lot of people all at once for their recommendations. Figure out your cat's specific issues. In order to find the right behaviorist for your cat, you should first identify your cat's exact behavior problems. Knowing exactly what issues you need treated will help you figure out if potential behaviorists will work well for your cat. There are a wide variety of issues that behaviorists typically treat, including: Biting Scratching Hissing Not eating Not using a litter box Excessive meowing Running away Self mutilation Separation anxiety Various phobias Consult with several behaviorists. It is a good idea to talk to several pet behaviorists before picking one. This will help you to figure out whether a specific behaviorist can help your cat and which one will be best for your cat. When you consult with these behaviorists you can get a general feeling for their demeanor and you can ask them questions about their: Qualifications Experience Treatment methods Training methods Make sure the behaviorist is qualified. There are three types of veterinary pet behaviorists: Applied Animal Behaviorists, Certified Applied Animal Behaviorists (CAABs), and Associate Certified Applied Animal Behaviorists (ACAABs). These veterinary professionals all have specific graduate degrees in animal behavior, either a MS, MA or PhD, or they went through post-graduate work on behavior after veterinary school. If a potential behaviorist does not have this type of educational background, then you should find someone else that does. It will cost more to take your cat to a veterinary professional that has an advanced degree than it would to someone who does not. However, just remember that you are paying for their advanced education and experience. Look for a behaviorist that has several years of experience. A behaviorist with a lot of experience will be better equipped to help your cat. Discuss your cat's issues. Have a honest conversation about your pet's problems and what the behaviorist can do to treat them. You should discuss not only what the cat is physically doing, for example attacking strangers, but how that behavior is impacting your life, for instance if it limiting your relationships with friends. This kind of honest conversation will allow the behaviorist to truly understand the seriousness of the situation. Make sure you answer all of the behaviorist's questions truthfully, even if they don't seem relevant to your cat. Sometimes behaviorists will ask personal questions about your work life or marriage in an attempt to understand the kind of environment your cat is living in. Discuss treatment philosophy and experience. If your cat has an especially bad behavior problem then you will need to find a pet behaviorist that is experienced with treating hard cases. Ask them whether they have treated cases like your cat's and what type of treatment they think would be appropriate. It may be helpful to write out some questions you have before going to a consultation appointment. This will help you to assure that you ask all of the important questions you have thought of. When asking the behaviorist about their experience, feel free to ask for some references from former clients that you could contact. If they refuse, consider looking for a different behaviorist to work with. Watch how the behaviorist interacts with your cat. Once you have decided on a behaviorist for your cat, you should watch the treatment sessions to see how the behaviorist interacts with your cat and what their treatment process is like. This will help you to assess whether the behaviorist is right for your cat and it progress is being made. If your cat is not responding well to the behaviorist or is not progressing after several sessions, feel free to try a different behaviorist. Care for your cat's basic needs. In order to minimize bad behavior and keep your cat happy and healthy, you should make sure that you are fulfilling your cat's basic needs. On the most basic level, these include giving it food, water, shelter, a clean place to go to the bathroom, and affection. If you don't provide one of these, such as when a cat's litter box doesn't get cleaned regularly, your cat may act out in order to get your attention about the situation and in order to express its displeasure. If your cat is having behavior problems, it does not automatically mean that you are not providing for its basic needs. Behavior problems can have a wide variety of causes, many of which have nothing to do with the care you give your cat. Provide stimulation. In addition to providing for your cat's basic needs, many cats that are bored and not stimulated enough can lash out and begin to have behavior problems. This means that you should provide your cat with a variety of types of stimulation, which could include: Feather toys Catnip toys A cat tree A scratching post Cat climbing shelves A perch with a good view outside An interactive puzzle toy Care for the cat's health. You should take your cat to see a veterinarian for regular veterinary exams and for care if it gets sick or injured. Making sure that your cat is healthy will go a long way towards keeping it healthy and bad behavior free. Some behavior problems, such as urinating outside of the litter box, can have a medical cause. If your cat begins to act out inappropriately and uncharacteristically, have it seen by a veterinarian to rule out a medical cause for the bad behavior. | Do a general online search. Search the websites of professional organizations. Ask your veterinarian for a referral. Ask friends and family for suggestions. Figure out your cat's specific issues. Consult with several behaviorists. Make sure the behaviorist is qualified. Discuss your cat's issues. Discuss treatment philosophy and experience. Watch how the behaviorist interacts with your cat. Care for your cat's basic needs. Provide stimulation. Care for the cat's health. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Wear-Pink-Shoes | How to Wear Pink Shoes | To create a feminine look, opt for pale pink sneakers paired with skinny jeans and a cream-colored top. If you want a dressier vibe, pair pink heels with a little black dress and blinged-out jewelry. To create a casual, masculine look, pair pink sneakers with fitted jeans and a graphic tee. For a more polished feel, wear pink wingtips with gray tailored pants and a white button-up. | Go for bright pink shoes to make a statement. Pink comes in hundreds of different shades, and you may be wondering how to choose between them. If you want a bold look, pick pink shoes in shades like fuchsia, rose, watermelon, and hot pink. Pair them with clothes in neutral hues to make your shoes stand out. Stick with pale pink shoes if you prefer a quieter look. Your pink shoes don't have to scream, “Look at me!” Opt for shoes in a softer shade if you have a more understated style. Shoes in ballet pink or blush still add a touch of femininity without being too loud. Pair them with neutral clothes for a low-key vibe, or choose garments in similar shades of pink for a monochromatic look. A pale pink slip dress and pale pink kitten heels create a soft, sweet look. Choose pink heels for dressy occasions. Pink heels take any outfit from drab to dynamite! Choose a low heel for formal events and a high heel for drinks or dates. Pink heels look great with skinny jeans, tailored trousers, dresses, and skirts, so you can easily create an outfit for any event. For a typical day in the office, pair pale pink mules with gray dress pants and a pink blouse. Pair hot pink pumps with your favorite little black dress for a night out with the girls. Try pink sneakers for casual events. Pink sneakers are perfect for picking up your dry cleaning or hanging out with your besties. Pair them with skinny jeans if you want to show off your shoes, or opt for flared jeans so just a hint of your shoes are visible. Dark-wash skinny jeans would look great with hot pink sneakers. Throw on a white oversized sweater and you're ready for brunch! Pick pink boots if you want a statement piece. Pink boots are dramatic and fun for special occasions. Wear them with clothing in neutral colors to make sure they're the star of your outfit. Over-the-knee boots in a dusty rose would pair well with a white slip dress and minimal jewelry. Wear fuchsia booties with cuffed jeans and a printed top for dinner and drinks. Opt for pink sandals in the summertime. Pink flip flops make great pool shoes, while pink Birkenstocks are perfect for summer barbeques. No matter what kind of sandal you prefer, you can make a statement by wearing them in your favorite shade of pink. Opt for soft shades of pink for understated looks. There are tons of pink shoes for men on the market right now, and many of them come in pastel shades. If you prefer a softer color or just don't want your shoes to stand out as much, stick with colors like blush and cherry blossom. Try wearing hot pink shoes to make a statement. If you love wearing pink and aren't afraid to take it to the next level, pick a pair of shoes in a bright, daring shade like magenta, fuchsia, or raspberry. Pair your hot pink shoes with clothes in neutral colors to make them stand out. For instance, wearing tailored white pants with hot pink shoes really makes them pop. Wear pink sneakers with jeans or shorts for a casual vibe. Pink sneakers are a super trendy item for men right now, so you'll probably be able to find a pair from your favorite shoe designer. Pair them with jeans or shorts for running errands, working out, or meeting up with friends. Hit the gym in black shorts, pink sneakers, and a plain white tee. Head to the bar in dark-wash jeans, a graphic black tee, and pink sneakers. Pair pink dress shoes with tailored slacks for a polished look. You can find several styles of dress shoes, from loafers to brogues, in shades of pink. Wear them with suits or slacks in neutral, complementary colors like gray or navy. Gray dress pants would look great paired with pink wing-tips. Choose a button-up shirt with a pattern containing the same shade of pink as your shoes. A navy suit with a white shirt and pink oxfords will make a statement for special events. Pick pink work boots for a more rugged look. Though pink isn't usually thought of as a rugged color, it can be when talking about Timberlands! If you prefer work boots over dress shoes or sneakers but still want to wear pink, you're in luck. Several companies have come out with pink boots for men. Pair them with jeans and a solid-colored shirt to keep that rugged vibe. Distressed jeans and a white henley would look great with pink boots. | Go for bright pink shoes to make a statement. Stick with pale pink shoes if you prefer a quieter look. Choose pink heels for dressy occasions. Try pink sneakers for casual events. Pick pink boots if you want a statement piece. Opt for pink sandals in the summertime. Opt for soft shades of pink for understated looks. Try wearing hot pink shoes to make a statement. Wear pink sneakers with jeans or shorts for a casual vibe. Pair pink dress shoes with tailored slacks for a polished look. Pick pink work boots for a more rugged look. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Draw-Anime-Girl%27s-Clothing | How to Draw Anime Girl's Clothing | To draw anime girls who look 3 dimensional, you'll need to learn how to draw their clothing. Consider where the clothing might bunch, wrinkle, stretch, or flow so it doesn't simply lie flat on your character. Many anime girls go to school, where they'll wear a traditional sailor uniform, so practice drawing a white shirt with a sailor collar, a tie, and a skirt. You'll also want to work on drawing casual clothing, traditional Japanese clothing, and some funky fashions that your character might enjoy wearing. As you practice your styles, consider what kind of fabric you're drawing since some are soft and thin and others are thick and rigid. | Know how fabrics rest on forms. Fabrics don't "meld" to whatever they're resting on - they hang loosely. Keep in mind that fabric resting on a sphere will have a different form than fabric resting on a cube. Whenever you're in doubt, just think of what lies beneath the fabric. Know the female figure. Stereotypically, female bodies tend to have an "hourglass" shape to them, with long legs and large breasts. This isn't the case in real life - everyone's body is different! However, regardless of the girl's shape, a female body differs from a male body in the sense that a male body is more angular and straight, whereas a female body has a tendency to seem less sharp. Know how clothes work on female figures. Clothes are influenced by the body's size and shape. For example, if a small girl were to put on a sweater several sizes too big for her, it would be evident as the sleeves would be hanging off her hands. Chests can also influence the clothing - a large chest size could cause a shirt to not fit properly, requiring a larger size for the girl. Learn about clothing and wrinkles. When clothes or clothing material wrap a person's body they will always show marks to indicate they are covering an object with multiple shapes, movements, or attachments. These marks are what we call wrinkles. Learn about typical clothing material. The type of material used influences the appearance of clothes. Some clothes are soft and thin, others thick and rigid. Check out other clothing materials. Other clothes are downright unique in form and texture. The material may also vary depending on the time or purpose it was created, such as for historical outfits, modern, futuristic, or fantasy clothing. Study the behavior of clothes in action. Clothes don't just hang down flat - they move with the person wearing them. Depending on the type of clothing, the material it's made of, the action the girl is doing, and whether wind should be moving it, the clothes will be shifting and wrinkling in different ways. Choose suitable clothing. Consider what you are capable of drawing as well as how you would like your anime girl to appear. Also keep in mind the personality of the character - a girl who's meant to be dark and mysterious isn't going to be wearing a bunch of frills! Try drawing school uniforms. Depending on the type of school your girl goes to, she may wear different types of uniforms. The stereotypical sailor fuku that's often seen in anime, also called the sailor uniform or seifuku , consists of a white shirt with a skirt, with a sailor collar over the shirt and a tie of some sort. In anime and manga, most sailor fukus are depicted as having rather short skirts - however, the skirts of the sailor fuku's uniform are actually typically knee-length or longer. They tend to be depicted as shorter because many girls in Japan roll their skirts at the waist, giving the appearance of a shorter skirt. These are most often seen in middle schools, although some high schools use them. High schools in Japan are gradually switching over to a more Western-style uniform, which consists of a plain shirt, a skirt or pants, a tie, and a blazer. Again, the skirts aren't short - they're rolled up! Gym uniforms tend to be solid color, usually something such as black or navy blue. The summer gym uniform typically consists of a pair of gym shorts and a short-sleeved gym shirt. The winter uniforms will usually be longer and have a jacket. Depending on the school, the uniform may have the owner's name written on it in kanji or katakana. However, katakana is usually reserved for students with foreign names. The shoes the students wear outdoors are usually a pair of black or dark brown loafers. However, Japanese schools require students to change into uwabaki , or a pair of soft slippers meant for indoor wear. The appearance of uwabaki differs from school to school, but they can have the appearance of typical slip-on shoes without rubber soles. Try drawing casual clothing. "Casual clothing" can be defined as something that you would typically leave the house in, or see most people walking around in - for example, jeans and a sweater in the winter months, or shorts and a T-shirt in the summer months. However, remember that certain people have certain styles, and some styles, such as Lolita fashions, would not be considered casual clothing. Does she wear cutesy styles? Styles considered "cute" are typically clothes that are "girly" colors such as pink, purple, and baby blue, with ruffles or frills, as well as bows - whether on the clothes or in her hair. If she's wearing a skirt or dress, it will likely puff out to the sides a bit. What if your girl is fashion-oriented? There are many different outfit types you could draw her in! Short dresses and skirts, shorts, cardigans or jackets, cute designer T-shirts - the possibilities are endless. Just make sure that everything she's wearing looks good together, or else she'll look more like a fashion train wreck than a fashionista! If she's a tomboy, you can put her in something like a pair of dark jeans and a video game T-shirt can work wonders. Keep in mind that most tomboys don't put a lot of effort into their appearance, and most of them don't wear skirts. Try a baggy look. If your girl is a gamer, somewhat of a loner, or just values being comfortable over looking nice, try dressing her in baggy clothes, such as an oversized sweater or shirt and a pair of loose jeans, or an oversized skirt with a baggy top. Shoes that go well with this type of style are brand-name sneakers, such as Converse or Vans. Try drawing sleepwear. Unless your girl just sleeps in her clothes, there are many different ways to have her dress for bed. Things such as nightgowns tend to hang straight down, especially if the material is somewhat thick. Large shirts tend to do the same, but will move differently than a nightgown - nightgowns will "spin" more than shirts do. Regular pajamas are essentially pants and a shirt. Depending on the type of pajamas, the shirt could be long-sleeved, short-sleeved, a button-up, a flannel, have a print on it, or just be plain. Generally, pants tend to be either short or long, and longer pants are more likely to have prints on them than decorations like ruffles. Try drawing Western formal clothing. Formal clothing in the West often refers to things such as dresses and tuxedos. However, in Japan, formal clothes are things such as kimonos and are covered in another section. Typically, anime girls wear longer dresses when they're trying to be formal but not traditional. These dresses can be like ball gowns or wedding dresses - which all vary in types! In Japan, not conforming is typically frowned upon, but if you want, try drawing your girl in a tuxedo. Try drawing traditional Japanese clothing. Traditional Japanese clothing are clothing such as kimonos and yukatas. Make sure you know the difference between all the clothing before drawing the clothing, though. Be wary when drawing a kimono's folds. The kimono is always wrapped left side over right, unless going to a funeral! Try drawing very "out there" fashions. Not everyone likes to conform to society - so why should your girl conform? You can try the classic "emo" or "scene" looks. These looks are typically noticed from their artificial and teased hair, along with certain clothing fashions - scene has colorful clothing, while emo clothing is usually limited to things like black, gray, and deep shades of red. Some girls that follow these fashions also have piercings! The lolita fashion is fairly well known for its large, frilly and lacy dresses, along with its many accessories such as parasols and the over-the-top girliness it portrays. Try battle clothing. Most people don't fight in over-the-top, revealing armor. However, if that's what you want someone to wear, feel free to draw it! Just be aware that the armor needs to be able to move with the girl as she's fighting, so it shouldn't be tight enough to constrict her movement. Add accessories. Suitable accessories include hair bows, bangles, rings, necklace, gloves, socks, and more. Anime girls often have a watch or a talisman of some kind. Cat ears are a common addition too. Also, if you're going for Japanese style, a fan is always nice. Try drawing different hairstyles. While hairstyles and clothing are not the same thing, a hairstyle can make an outfit look quite nice. For example, a girl who wanted to look "cute" could have her hair in pigtails, whereas a girl who just wanted to do something simple may have her hair in a loose ponytail. Mix things up! Even if your girl doesn't have her hair styled, her hair doesn't have to be boring. She can have wavy hair or curly hair, or be wearing hair accessories such as headbands, barrettes, or a knitted beanie. If you want, try giving her an unusual hair color. In anime, the hairstyles rarely ever conform to reality, and color is no exception! | Know how fabrics rest on forms. Know the female figure. Know how clothes work on female figures. Learn about clothing and wrinkles. Learn about typical clothing material. Check out other clothing materials. Study the behavior of clothes in action. Choose suitable clothing. Try drawing school uniforms. Try drawing casual clothing. Try drawing sleepwear. Try drawing Western formal clothing. Try drawing traditional Japanese clothing. Try drawing very "out there" fashions. Try battle clothing. Add accessories. Try drawing different hairstyles. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Make-a-Woman-Feel-Beautiful | How to Make a Woman Feel Beautiful | To make a woman feel beautiful, you can try complimenting her at times when she might feel disheveled and unattractive. For example, when she gets out of bed, you might say something like, “Morning, beautiful”. It's also important to listen when your partner communicates her insecurities with you and show that you understand by giving cues like nodding, as this will help her feel accepted for who she is. Additionally, try surprising her with an unexpected gift, like flowers, to show your appreciation. | Compliment her at unexpected times. If you want to help a woman feel beautiful, throw in compliments throughout the day. A compliment during an unexpected time, especially a time when she might be feeling disheveled or otherwise unattractive. Start off the day with a compliment. When she gets out of bed in the morning and goes for her morning coffee, say something like, "Morning, beautiful" or "Looking good." Compliment her when she's in her element. Women like to feel their significant others like them for their personalities, hobbies, and interests as well as their physical qualities. If she's an avid hiker, tell her she looks gorgeous when she's sweaty and sunburnt because she looks so happy from a long day outdoors. If she works in a hospital, tell her you love how cute she looks in her scrubs. Be persistent. Women who are insecure may reject compliments. If she rejects a compliment initially, reassure her. Say she's not feeling pretty on a particular day and brushes aside your compliment. Follow up with something like, "Well, you look beautiful to me." Love her flaws. Most women have some insecurities about their bodies or physical appearance. A great way to make her feel beautiful is to talk her through these insecurities. Assure her you think she's beautiful just the way she is. Let her know that the qualities that she dislikes about herself make her unique and that you find them beautiful. Try saying something like, “You know how you hate that bump on your nose? Well, I love it! It's part of what gives you a unique appearance and I think it is beautiful.” Talk up the body parts she feels insecure about. If she hates her legs, for example, tell her she looks great when she's wearing a shorter skirt. If she insists her arms are too chubby or too muscular, give her extra attention when she wears a sleeveless shirt or dress. Women can have insecurities about their personalities that they feel make them unattractive as well. If she feels that she's too emotional or too cold, reassure her that everyone has flaws or aspects of their personality they dislike. However, assure her that the things she dislikes about herself do not dampen her beauty. Talk her up around others. Sometimes people feel direct compliments are disingenuous. If you want to make a woman feel beautiful, talk her up to others. This can make her more trusting of your words. When you're out at a party or social gathering, tell other about you like about this woman. You can talk about her physical qualities, saying something like, "Doesn't she have the prettiest smile?" You can also talk up her more attractive personality traits, something like, "Isn't she funny?" Surprise her with small gifts and gestures. People feel beautiful when they feel appreciated. Find ways to surprise a woman with small gifts and gestures. This will make her feel positive about herself, making her feel beautiful. Bring her flowers on a random day of the week. Surprise her with a small note telling her she's beautiful. Buy her a small gift and leave it in her mailbox. Order her lunch and have it delivered to her work. Include a note on the delivery slip wishing her a good day. Send her a text telling her you think she's pretty, smart, funny, or any other attributes about her you admire. Be creative. Think of what your girlfriend, wife, or friend enjoys and think of kind gestures she'll appreciate throughout the day. Plan a fancy date. Sometimes, getting dressed up for a night on the town can help a woman feel beautiful. Make reservations at a fancy restaurant. Buy tickets to a musical or concert. Plan a date that involves dressing up. This will allow your wife and girlfriend the opportunity to choose an outfit, jewelry, and make-up that make her feel confident and beautiful. Engage in foreplay during sex. Women enjoy foreplay before sex. Not only does it help stimulate sexual desire, foreplay can raise a woman's self esteem. If she feels like you admire her body, she'll feel better about herself. Take time to nurture different parts of her body. Kiss her neck, ears, shoulders, and breasts. Run your hands up and down her body. This will make her feel that you want her physically, increasing her sense of self confidence. Dirty talk can also help. It does not have to be vulgar or explicitly sexual, but expressing your attraction to her in words can help. Tell her what about her attracts you. Describe what aspects of sex you enjoy with her. Many women feel insecure in bed and want to turn the lights off. Suggest you leave them on, as you want to see her fully. Even if she says no to this, she'll be flattered that you're attracted enough to her that you want the lights on. Understand female insecurity. Female insecurity is a common problem for a reason. Statistically, being conventionally attractive is advantageous to one's career and personal life. Women, even very conventionally attractive women, often feel insecure about their looks and tend to feel threatened by beautiful women. Try to be understanding of this and provide emotional support through listening. Understand women do not actively try to be insecure but there is a lot of societal pressure to fit a certain standard of beauty. Communicate. One of the best things you can do to help a woman feel beautiful is to talk to her. Allow her to openly communicate her insecurities to you. Listen when your wife, girlfriend, or female friend expresses negative thoughts about her appearance. Practice active listening by summarizing what is said after she finishes talking and give verbal cues, like nodding, to show you're paying attention. Recognize when there might be a problem. While you can provide reassurance, understand you cannot fix someone else's insecurity. If you're concerned that your wife, girlfriend, or female friend is overly concerned with her appearance, gently suggest she talk her concerns over with a counselor or therapist. This is especially important if her concerns or insecurities interfere with her daily life. It could indicate a deeper issue, such as low self-esteem or Body Dysmorphic Disorder. Nurture her passions and interests. Women like to feel beautiful for their minds as well as their bodies. By encouraging her passions, you make a woman feel beautiful. Encourage her to pursue her interests. If she's interested in singing, ask her to sing for you. If she's an avid painter, ask to take a look at her work. Ask her about what's important to her. Ask her about her work, school, hobbies, and interests. Showing a vested interest in a woman's personality, as well as her exterior qualities, can help her feel beautiful. | Compliment her at unexpected times. Love her flaws. Talk her up around others. Surprise her with small gifts and gestures. Plan a fancy date. Engage in foreplay during sex. Understand female insecurity. Communicate. Recognize when there might be a problem. Nurture her passions and interests. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Use-Veet | How to Use Veet | To use Veet, start by spreading it over the area of your skin where you want to remove hair using the spatula that came with the cream. The cream only needs to be on the surface of your skin, so don't worry about rubbing it in. Once you've applied the cream, leave it on for 3 minutes before gently scraping it off with the spatula. When you're finished, rinse your skin with warm water and pat it dry. | Apply a small drop of cream to the area you wish to treat. Wait 24 hours to see if there are any adverse skin reactions. If you suffer from a skin-related disorder or take medication that can affect your skin, consult a doctor before using this cream. If your skin shows no irritation, continue using the cream. Do not use the cream if the cream itself is not all the same color, or if the tube it comes in is damaged. Avoid letting the cream make contact with metal or cloth, which can damage or discolor the material. In case of accidental contact, clean the surface immediately with water. Keep Veet hair removal cream out of reach of children. In case of accidental ingestion, consult a doctor immediately and show the outer pack of the product. Squeeze a handful of cream into the palm of your hand. Only produce enough cream to cover the intended area. Avoid making contact with eyes. If you get any cream in your eyes, rinse with plenty of water and seek medical attention immediately. Spread the handful of cream onto the intended area. Use the spatula tool that is included to evenly apply the cream and fully cover hair. Apply the cream to the surface of the skin rather than rubbing it into the pores. The removal cream is designed for legs, arms, underarms and bikini lines. Do not use the cream on the face, head, breast, perianal or genital areas as severe irritation and burning can occur. If you apply the cream to these areas and experience irritation, wash the cream off gently and consult a doctor. Don't apply the cream to moles, scars, spotty, irritated or sun burnt skin. Avoid contact with skin that has been shaved in the last 72 hours. Avoid contact with broken or inflamed skin. If cream gets into broken skin, wash it with lukewarm water and 3% of boric acid solution. Talk to a doctor if the pain is not alleviated after rinsing. Don't use this cream immediately after a hot bath/shower. The cream contains alkali and thioglycolate, which can more easily irritate tender skin. Leave the cream on the target area for 3 minutes. Be sure you carefully time this period as leaving the cream on longer can seriously irritate skin. If you experience any smarting or tingling during use, remove the cream immediately and rinse thoroughly with water. If this sensation persists, seek medical advice. Scrape the cream away gently with the spatula. First, use the head of the spatula to test a small area. If the hair comes away easily, remove the rest of the cream with the spatula. Use a soft sponge or washcloth to remove the cream if the spatula is too abrasive. If needed, you can leave the cream on longer before fully removing. Do not exceed 6 minutes, as your skin will likely become irritated and produce a painful burning sensation. Rinse your skin thoroughly with warm water. Wash away the residual cream and any stray hairs. The best way to do this is to take a shower and use a Loofah or sponge to softly scrub the area. Pat yourself dry with a soft towel. Do this gently as the area may still be tender after using the removal cream. Always wait 72 hours between cream applications. This will reduce the amount of irritation and inflammation sustained to the skin. Do not apply antiperspirant or perfume to the treated area, or sunbathe before 24 hours has passed. Skin may be tender and will be especially sensitive to the sun or to the chemicals in said products. Apply a small amount of wax to the target area with a Perfect Finish wipe (included). Monitor your skin for 24 ours to ensure that waxing will not cause irritation. If your skin doesn't become irritated, it is likely safe to use the waxing strips. For first-time waxers, start by removing hair from the legs. This is one of the less sensitive parts of the body. Once you have some experience, move on to more sensitive areas like the underarm and bikini line. It is not recommended to use the strips to wax areas of skin that have already been waxed. If you take medication that affects your skin, get approval from a doctor first before using Veet wax strips. Do not use Veet ready-to-use wax strips if you are elderly or diabetic. There could be serious health risks involved. Waxing is fine if pregnant; however, know that your skin may be more likely to bruise. Clean the skin area of skin you intend to wax. Either shower or use a washcloth to scrub away any dirt or residue that may be on your skin. Dry your skin very well after cleaning. Moisture will prevent proper adhesion of the wax to the skin. Rub the wax strip between your hands for 5 seconds. This is done to warm the wax and prepare it to be bonded with hair. Traditional hair waxing techniques usually involve heating a thick wax solution in the microwave or in warm water. Though not as complicated a process, Veet strips still require some heat before waxing can occur. Slowly peel the strips apart. You can reuse each strip until it loses its grip. Place a strip onto your skin and rub it repeatedly. Rub the strip in the direction that your hair grows. For waxing legs, rub the strip from knee to ankle. Exercise the same caution as if using the removal cream. Do not apply it to the head, face, genitals, or other sensitive private areas. Don't apply the wax strips to varicose veins, moles, scars, or irritated skin. If you experience irritation, remove the wax by using a Perfect Finish wipe from the box. Alternatively, you can use cotton balls soaked in baby oil or body oil. Since the wax is resin based, it will not rinse off with just water. Be sure that the hair you are waxing is at least between 2-5 mm long. Hair that is shorter than 2 mm may not adhere well to the wax and therefore will not be pulled during removal. Immediately pull the strip back on itself. The quicker you pull the strip off, the higher your chances are of removing most of the hair. Remove the strip in the opposite direction of hair growth. This will increase the likelihood of hair being pulled. Hold the skin taut with one hand and make sure you keep the strip parallel to the skin. This will maximize effectiveness and minimize discomfort. Avoid pulling the strips outward as this will only break the hairs. Wipe the waxed area with a Perfect Finish cloth. You can also shower to better remove waxy residue from your skin. Wait 24 hours before applying antiperspirant and perfume products, or before sunbathing. Since waxed skin may still be tender, doing these things may cause irritation or discomfort. | Apply a small drop of cream to the area you wish to treat. Squeeze a handful of cream into the palm of your hand. Spread the handful of cream onto the intended area. Leave the cream on the target area for 3 minutes. Scrape the cream away gently with the spatula. Rinse your skin thoroughly with warm water. Pat yourself dry with a soft towel. Apply a small amount of wax to the target area with a Perfect Finish wipe (included). Clean the skin area of skin you intend to wax. Rub the wax strip between your hands for 5 seconds. Slowly peel the strips apart. Place a strip onto your skin and rub it repeatedly. Immediately pull the strip back on itself. Wipe the waxed area with a Perfect Finish cloth. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Organize-Your-School-Agenda | How to Organize Your School Agenda | If you're having trouble organizing your school agenda, try using your planner to keep track of your personal life as well so that you're more likely to want to use it! Additionally, make sure to write down new assignments right away, so you don't forget! When you have some spare time, write down your class schedule, and add any important due dates from your syllabus. Finally, for a try using colored dividers or markers to organize by class, and don't forget to highlight important tests and quizzes. | Buy an agenda that works for you. Do you need a planner with lots of space for writing? Does it need to be small enough to fit in your bag or backpack? Consider space for notes, how much room is allotted for each day, whether a monthly calendar is included. Choose one that fits your personality and needs and you'll be more likely to use it. Academic-year planners usually run from summer to summer, across calendar years, making them ideal for students. Planners with wire binding lie flat and can be folded over, making them more versatile. Find or buy additional supplies. Beyond just an agenda, you'll want multicolored pens or pencils, highlighters, self-stick notes and page flags. You may also want paperclips for attaching loose sheets and stickers to give some extra personality to your agenda. Personalize your agenda. Give your planner some personality and you'll be more likely to enjoy using it. Decorate with stickers, markers, decals or anything else that reflects your interests. Make it fun and you'll get more out of it! Write important dates in your calendar. Note the start and end of your academic year, semester breaks, holidays and any other relevant dates. Include school events such as football games, dances and standardized test dates too. Add your class schedule. Copying a schedule of classes into your planner means you'll always have it handy. This can help if your classes don't all meet every day or you're still trying to remember the order. Add dates from your syllabus. If your teacher gives you a semester plan, use it. Write down dates of major projects, tests, quizzes and anything else that might be relevant. Make a list of books or other supplies you know you'll need right away. Make it part of your routine. Keep your agenda with you all the time and consult it every time you get an assignment and every afternoon when you're reviewing homework. No amount of writing in your agenda will help if you don't consult it later! Write assignments down right away. Get in the habit of writing homework and tasks down immediately. If it's a long term assignment, write down when it's assigned, a few key reminder dates along the way, and the date it's due. Write it down both on your monthly calendar and the actual date it's due. This will help you plan ahead more effectively, and writing things down helps reinforce them in your mind. Highlight tests and quizzes. Work backwards, giving yourself reminders a week ahead and a few days ahead to study or work on upcoming projects, so you're not left scrambling at the last minute. For bigger projects, designate work time along the way. Color-code your classes. If you're a visual learner, or like to make things easy to see at a glance, using a different color for each class or subject will make it easy to see what's going on in any given week. But don't overdo it, or you won't be able to remember what stands for what. Cross completed assignments off. If you've turned in an assignment, make a check mark or cross it off and you'll know for sure it's done. Then you'll never have to wonder whether you remembered your math homework. Make a to-do list. Every evening, make one for your day ahead. Review it at the end of the week. Having a daily and weekly to-do list will keep you on track and give you the satisfaction of crossing things off when they're done. Use page flags or tabs to mark important pages. If you've got things you need to consult again and again, flagging the page will make it much easier to find and reference. Mark each month with tabs and it will be easier to find what you're looking for. Use self-stick notes for temporary reminders. Write down things like phone numbers, important information and notes to yourself. But if it's really vital, write it in your planner for real. Keep everything in it. If your planner has pockets, use them for handouts, permission slips, or other helpful information. You can also paperclip relevant documents for the dates you'll need them. Use it for daily life. You can also use your planner to keep track of family vacations, dates, appointments, activities and anything else you have to do. It will be easier to keep track of everything and you'll be able to see at a glance what might interfere with schoolwork. And make sure you schedule free time, too! | Buy an agenda that works for you. Find or buy additional supplies. Personalize your agenda. Write important dates in your calendar. Add your class schedule. Add dates from your syllabus. Make it part of your routine. Write assignments down right away. Highlight tests and quizzes. Color-code your classes. Cross completed assignments off. Make a to-do list. Use page flags or tabs to mark important pages. Use self-stick notes for temporary reminders. Keep everything in it. Use it for daily life. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Prepare-for-a-Home-Inspection | How to Prepare for a Home Inspection | To prepare for a home inspection, try to address as many issues with your home as possible before the inspection, including water damage, electrical issues, rotting exterior wood, mold, plumbing problems, and structural damage. If you're unable to address an issue with your home due to time constraints or limited funds, fill out a disclosure form so the inspector is aware of it. Also, you may want to hire your own inspector to assess your home before the actual inspection to catch anything you might have missed. | Look for any signs of water damage. Signs of water damage is a concern to a home inspector — not to mention your potential buyer. One that is of great concern is ceiling stains. This is because ceiling stains usually indicate that water has gotten somewhere it shouldn't have. Even if the stain came from something insignificant, home inspectors will be concerned about a more serious issue. Keep a home inspector from suspecting faulty plumbing or a poor exterior seal by repairing water-damaged portions of the ceiling, ensuring that there is not a recurring cause of water damage. Address any potential electrical issues. Often, electrical issues arise when someone who occupied the house did their own electrical maintenance, or because of changes in the electrical code after work was done. Essentially, anything that has not been done according to code will lead to poor inspection results. Make sure all outlets and your panel boxes are up to code. Consider hiring an electrical contractor to look at anything you're uncertain about. Make sure that all outlets in bathrooms and near the kitchen sink— or anywhere near a water source — are Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI) outlets. These are designed to prevent accidents from happening if appliances being used are exposed to water. Make sure breakers in the electrical panel only have one wire on each lug. Double-tapped breakers are safety hazards. Check to make sure that all outlets in the home are grounded. Ensure bathrooms are properly ventilated. Especially if the home you're hoping to sell is older and there are any bathrooms without windows, there's a good chance its ventilation will not meet current construction standards. Specifically, if you have an interior bathroom, insure that any bathroom exhaust fans vent to the exterior of the home. Replace exterior wood that has begun to rot. Even if the rotting is minimal and seemingly inconsequential, replace it. Rotting indicates a lack of maintenance, especially regular exterior painting. Check exterior trim, window casings, and areas around decks. While checking exterior wood, touch up any spots where the paint has begun to deteriorate. Make sure the home’s plumbing is up to par. You should also know that many homes have at least one or two minor plumbing issues that should be addressed before an inspection. In particular, replace or adjust leaky faucets, loose toilets, and slow drains. Be aware that a home inspector will also inspect the valves of boilers and water heaters. If these are found to be faulty, they can likely be easily replaced by a plumber. Close any potentially unsealed parts of the home’s exterior. Windows and chimneys often have poor seals or cracks. One common sign of a poor window seal is fogging of the glass. Chimneys, on the other hand, are especially exposed to the weather, and commonly develop cracks or loose mortar over time. If one is not present, install a metal cap to help protect the chimney. If cracks exist near the top of the chimney, they can easily be repaired by a mason — the sooner the better; however, if a large crack is present near the base of the chimney, consult a professional about whether the chimney poses a potential structural risk. Check the roof venting to ensure that it is metal and not plastic. Plastic venting has a short life span and it can cause a lot of damage when it cracks. Inspect the flashing around the chimney to ensure that it had been correctly installed. If not, the paint may be peeling. Check for mold. Even if you think there's no chance you have mold in the home, double check. Mold in the attic, which can grow when moisture is trapped, is one of the most common things discovered by a home inspector, and homeowners are often unaware that it is there. Have a professional test for mold throughout the home. Cloudy black patches on walls, ceilings, and shower curtains are signs that there is mold present; a professional can help you determine the extent of the problem. Remediate any radon presence in the home. Using a test kit purchased at a home improvement store or online, test for the presence of radon in your home. Along with mold, radon is another significant issue that homeowners are often unaware of preceding an inspection. Radon is a naturally occurring gas beneath the surface of the Earth that sometimes enters homes through cracks in the home's foundation. Radon is a commonly known carcinogen, and home inspectors may test for it if testing is required by law where you live or if you have paid extra for it. Radon in the air can be remediated relatively easily, and should be addressed as quickly as possible. Radon in your home's water supply is a much more significant issue. The benchmark frequently used to determine the level that requires remediation in water is any presence of Radon above 4.0 pCi/L (picocuries per liter). You can also install a radon detector. Check on your basement and crawl spaces. Ensure basement walls are free of any substantial cracks, and reseal any minor cracks that are present. Make sure below-ground crawl spaces have vapor barriers or have them installed. Further, if your basement or crawl space has windows below ground level, make sure each has a clean, intact window well and cover. Though easy to overlook, there are a few things that should never be stored in basements or crawl spaces — including paints, solvents, and other flammable liquids. Remove them if they are present in these areas. Fill out a disclosure form regarding any unaddressed issues. Address any issues with your home to the greatest extent possible. If you do not have the funds or time to fix substantial issues, fill out a seller disclosure form in detail, listing all of the defects you are aware of. Disclosure forms are required in many states, and are recommended even when not required. Your negotiations may be detrimentally affected by defects in the home that are identified by a home inspection ordered by a potential buyer. Be upfront about any known defects. Get a seller’s inspection. Consider ordering a home inspection of your own before you put your house on the market. While prospective buyers will usually be the ones hiring a home inspector for an unbiased assessment of the home, it may be worth hiring one of your own to make sure you are aware of any issues that need to be addressed. Further, have a home inspection already completed so you can show favorable assessments to prospective buyers or share information about any issues you've already addressed. Attending the inspection may help your inspector point out specific issues that need to be addressed. Leave home, but leave a note outlining the location of certain things. Plan to not be present for a potential buyer's inspection, but leave a note outlining where the inspector can find the things they need to look at. In particular, oddly located water heaters or furnace systems may be hard to find, and the inspector will appreciate your pointing them out. Identify hidden entries to beneath homes with pier and beam foundations. Provide proof that the septic system is in working order. The inspector will not conduct an inspection of your septic tank. It is up to you to provide proof of a recent professional inspection that states the condition of the septic tank. Don't leave a loose pet at home, as you do not want the inspector to be startled or otherwise have to deal with an animal. Make paperwork readily available. Keep and provide a file of any documentation regarding maintenance and repairs of the home. These should include, at the very least, evidence of finance inspections, receipts for any repairs, and any insurance claims you've made on the home. Be able to prove, with paperwork, that you've addressed any issues that have previously arisen in regards to the home. Depending on the area you live in, any remodeling would have required permits that also need to be included. Be ready for an early arrival. Many home inspectors will arrive at a home quite early. Some prefer to do a quick run-through before a Realtor or potential buyer arrives if they are also attending the inspection. Keep boxes and other possessions out of the way. Remove any clutter from areas that may need to be inspected. The cabinets beneath any sinks will need to be clear, and access to built-in fixtures such as water heaters must be entirely accessible. It's also best to get basements or attics as clear as possible, as underground walls and attics will need to be thoroughly inspected. Even in storage rooms — in particular attic storage areas — you will need to pull boxes into the center of the space so that structural components such as trusses and exterior wall conditions can be readily assessed. Have utilities turned on and operable. A home inspector will not personally ignite a pilot light, flip electrical breakers, or turn a home's water on. Make sure everything is turned on and in working order before the inspector arrives so this does not impede the inspection. If the home has been empty for some time, run faucets and other water sources to make sure water is flowing and does not contain unsightly sediment from sitting in pipes for a while. Double check that an inspector will be able to enter the home. It seems obvious, but this is an important step, as there are several things that may obstruct an inspector. Make sure any gates are unlocked, and keys are left in lock boxes. Let the inspector know beforehand about preferred methods of entry to the home. Check to see that any sheds or garages are also accessible. Get rid of snow and ice. If it's winter, make sure snow or ice will not obstruct entrance to the home nor cover anything that will need to be inspected. In addition to making sure the driveway is safely accessible, remove snow from any windows and clear any built up snow from the foundation of the building. Finally, remove any icicles that have formed on the home or other structures on the property. Check the lights. Though you don't necessarily want to simply leave all the lights on in your home, making sure lights are easily found and have working bulbs is important. Lights with broken or absent bulbs will force the inspector to determine whether the fixture itself is inoperable, a time-consuming and potentially frustrating task. Consider leaving lights on in small spaces — such as crawl spaces, attics, and furnace rooms — that are hard to see into or don't have light sources with easily accessible switches. Do not attempt to hide any issues with the home. Avoid shoddy fixes or minimal adjustments — they may be noticed by a home inspector and will indicate that you have not put meaningful care into the home. Additionally, you should notify potential buyers of recent things you've done to the home, including repairs, replacements, or plans to do so in preparation for a sale. Clean all appliances. To some degree, this is common sense — but it's worth double checking. Make sure washing machines and dryers are clean and empty. Further, clean the home's oven and stove top. Both of these things will need to be tested, and the presentation of any dirtiness in the home reflects poorly on an inspector's assumptions on the home's upkeep. There are plenty of low-cost, quick tidy-up tasks that can be done to improve an inspector's perspective of a home. Cleaning everything is a great place to start. Test all of the smoke detectors in the home. This is surprisingly easy to forget, and though easily remedied, worth being addressed prior to an inspection. Replace batteries and get new or additional detectors wherever necessary. In newer homes, there needs to be a working smoke detector in almost every room, aside from bathrooms and closets, but including hallways. Keep in mind that older homes (those built before the year 2000) do not have to have a smoke detector in every room, just one on each floor. All properties also have to have a working carbon monoxide detector on every floor. It is best to put the carbon monoxide detector close to the floor and near the bedrooms. Touch up exterior caulk jobs. Look over everywhere there is caulk on the exterior of the building. This will be caulk around almost anything, not just the windows. Check around doors, connections to exterior appliances, trim, and portions of the home that extend out of a previous level and have a seam along the roof. Similarly, touch up the mortar on the foundation or anywhere on a brick home. Attend to the home's air system. In particular, replace the air filters if the home has an HVAC system. Further, clean the air returns, vents, and other accessible parts of the system. Have any service tags or notes clearly visible. Keep the exterior of the home free of debris. Keep mulch or other yard material at least six inches from the start of a home's siding. Trim any plants that are touching any part of the building so that nothing is touching the home's foundation, roof, siding, or chimney. Finally, clear the roof itself and the gutters of any collected debris. If you keep stacks of firewood, make sure no firewood is stacked against the exterior of the home. Do not place garbage cans next to the house because they can attract pests and cause cracks in the siding. Make sure any downspouts or drains are pointed and slope away from the home. Also, check the areas where outside drains connect to the interior of the house. They may be hidden and leak without being noticed. | Look for any signs of water damage. Address any potential electrical issues. Ensure bathrooms are properly ventilated. Replace exterior wood that has begun to rot. Make sure the home’s plumbing is up to par. Close any potentially unsealed parts of the home’s exterior. Check for mold. Remediate any radon presence in the home. Check on your basement and crawl spaces. Fill out a disclosure form regarding any unaddressed issues. Get a seller’s inspection. Leave home, but leave a note outlining the location of certain things. Make paperwork readily available. Be ready for an early arrival. Keep boxes and other possessions out of the way. Have utilities turned on and operable. Double check that an inspector will be able to enter the home. Get rid of snow and ice. Check the lights. Do not attempt to hide any issues with the home. Clean all appliances. Test all of the smoke detectors in the home. Touch up exterior caulk jobs. Attend to the home's air system. Keep the exterior of the home free of debris. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Make-a-Cheese-Omelette | How to Make a Cheese Omelette | To make a cheese omelette, first crack 2 eggs into a mixing bowl. Then, add 2 tablespoons (30 mL) of water and a dash of salt and pepper. Adding water to the egg will make your omelette light and fluffy. Whisk everything together until the mixture is thoroughly combined. Next, heat 1 tablespoon (14 g) of butter in a pan over medium heat until it melts and coats the bottom of the pan. Then, pour in the egg mixture. After about 10 seconds, use a spatula to gently guide the egg into the middle and away from the sides. Keep doing this until the egg firms up. Now, sprinkle ⅓ cup (42 g) of grated cheese on one half of the cooked egg, and fold the other half over the cheese using the spatula. Finally, cook the omelette for 30 more seconds, or until the egg is completely cooked through, and enjoy! | Break two eggs into a bowl. Make sure that the eggs are room temperature. Cold eggs can lead to a tough, over-cooked omelette. Beat the eggs with a fork or whisk. You want to break up the yolks until there are no strands or globs left. The mixture should be a little frothy. If you wish, you can add a pinch of salt and a dash of pepper at this point. Consider adding a few small pieces of cold butter to the beaten eggs. This will result in a richer, fluffier omelette. For a lighter, fluffier omelette, add a little bit of water to the egg mixture. The steam from the heating water will cause the eggs to fluff up when cooked. Butter an 8-inch (20.32-centimeter) skillet. Turn on your stove and set the heat to medium. Place the skillet on the burner and drop 2 teaspoons of butter or margarine onto the surface. Using the handle, tilt the skillet around until the entire surface is covered with the melting butter. This will prevent the eggs from sticking to the surface of the pan. If you do not have a skillet, you can use a non-stick frying pan instead. Pour the egg mix onto the skillet. Shake and tilt the skillet so that the egg mixture coats the bottom. Continue spreading the egg around with a spatula. As the top of the omelette begins to set, run your spatula around the edges of the omelette. Lift them up slightly to let the uncooked egg flow under the omelette. Add the cheese just before the omelette finishes cooking. When the omelette is still runny and shiny on top, sprinkle the cheese down the middle of it. The omelette will continue cooking after you fold it in half. If you wait until the omelette is fully-cooked! the result will be a very dry omelette. Consider adding some other ingredients as well, such as sliced up mushrooms, herbs, or bits of ham. Make sure that any ingredients you add are already cooked (with the exception of cheese and herbs). For more ideas, refer to the section in this article on adding variations to your omelette. Fold the omelet in half. Slide the spatula under one part of the omelette and lift, flipping the omelette over onto itself. Finish cooking the omelette, then transfer it to a plate. When the underside of the omelette starts to turn golden brown, take the skillet off the burner. Use a spatula to slide the omelette off the skillet and onto a plate. Garnish and serve the omelette. You can serve the omelette as it is, or you can garnish it with some herbs, such as chives, basil, oregano, or parsley. You can also serve it with a few slices of fried bacon or toast. Although omelettes are typically served for breakfast, you can eat yours for lunch or dinner as well! Preheat your oven to 375°F (190°C). Make sure that the baking rack is in the center of the even. Omelettes are usually fried, but if you have to feed a lot of people, baking them is the best way to go. Not only will you be making multiple servings all at once, but you also won't have to worry about the first batch of omelettes getting cold while you work on the others. Prepare your baking dish. Select a 9 by 13-inch (22.86 by 33.02-centimeter) baking dish. A glass or ceramic casserole dish will work the best. Lightly grease the inside of the dish with butter, making sure to cover the bottom and the sides. Mix the eggs and milk together in a large bowl. Break open 10 eggs into a bowl and pour in 2 cups (450 milliliters) of milk. Beat everything together with a whisk until the yolks are all broken, and the milk is combined with the eggs. Chop the parsley. Take a few sprigs of flat-leafed parsley and chop it into fine bits. You will need enough chopped parsley to fill ¼ cup (5 grams). Dice the cooked ham. Using a sharp knife, cut the ham into long, horizontal strips. Then, cut across the strips vertically, making little cubes. You will need enough to fill 1 cup (150 grams). If the ham is not yet cooked, you will need to warm it up after you have chopped it. Simply scoop the ham into a dish and heat it in the microwave for a few seconds. Add the cheese, ham, and parsley to the egg mixture. Mix everything together with a whisk. Make sure that all of the ingredients are evenly distributed. If you do not have, or if you do not like Parmesan cheese, use Cheddar cheese instead and omit the parsley. Use chopped chives for garnish at the very end. Pour the mixture into the baking dish. Hold the bowl over the baking dish and tilt it, allowing the egg mixture to pour into the dish. You can use a spoon or spatula to help ease the mixture out of the bowl and spread it evenly. Put the dish into the oven. Do not cover the dish or wrap foil over the top. Let the omelette bake in the oven for 45 minutes. Take the omelette out of the oven when it is finished. You can tell if it is finished when the top is golden-brown. If you are still in doubt, stick a knife into the omelette and pull it out. If the knife comes out clean, the omelette is ready. Let the omelette cool for 5 minutes before serving it. Serve the omelette. Cut the omelette into squares, and use a spatula to transfer each square onto a plate. If you wish to add some color to the omelette, you may chop up one chive and sprinkle the pieces over the top. Consider adding variations to your omelette. A cheese omelette can be made using different types of cheese. It can also be enhanced with additional ingredients, such as mushrooms, herbs, and ham. What ever ingredients you add to the omelette will need to be already cooked, with the exception of herbs and cheese. This section will give you some recipe variations and ideas. Use different types of cheese. You can experiment using different types of cheese in your omelette, such as Feta cheese and Parmesan cheese. Keep in mind, however, that different types of cheese pair better with different types of ingredients. Here are some examples: Feta cheese pairs best with tomatoes, spinach, and broccoli. Parmesan cheese works best with ham, onions, and mushrooms. Cheddar cheese works well with almost anything, but especially bacon, ham, and tomatoes. Limit your ingredients. When choosing your ingredients, try not to add too many; this may cause the omelette to fall apart when you try to fold it or move it to a plate. Instead, consider limiting yourself to two or three extra ingredients (excluding the eggs and seasoning). Add some color to your omelette with tomatoes and spring onion. Dice 1 tomato and mix it with ½ tablespoon of olive oil, 1 tablespoon of Cheddar cheese, 3 chopped basil leaves, and 1 chopped spring onion. Grease your skillet with ½ tablespoon of olive oil, and fry your omelette as usual. Once it begins to set, add the tomato and cheese mixture on top, and fold it over. Let the omelette cook for 30 more seconds before removing it from the heat and serving it. Make a ham and cheese omelette. Cook your omelette as usual, but add a slice of finely-chopped ham to the cheese mixture. After you fold the omelette in half, but before your serve it, garnish it with a sprinkle of chopped up ham. Add sliced mushrooms to the omelette. Heat a handful of sliced mushrooms in 1 tablespoon of olive oil for 2 to 3 minutes, or until the mushrooms are golden-brown. Scoop the mushrooms from the pan and mix then with ¼ cup (25 grams) of grated Cheddar cheese and chopped parsley. Cook your omelette as normal, and add sprinkle the cheese-parsley-mushroom mixture. down the middle before folding it in half and serving it. | Break two eggs into a bowl. Beat the eggs with a fork or whisk. Butter an 8-inch (20.32-centimeter) skillet. Pour the egg mix onto the skillet. Continue spreading the egg around with a spatula. Add the cheese just before the omelette finishes cooking. Fold the omelet in half. Finish cooking the omelette, then transfer it to a plate. Garnish and serve the omelette. Preheat your oven to 375°F (190°C). Prepare your baking dish. Mix the eggs and milk together in a large bowl. Chop the parsley. Dice the cooked ham. Add the cheese, ham, and parsley to the egg mixture. Pour the mixture into the baking dish. Put the dish into the oven. Take the omelette out of the oven when it is finished. Serve the omelette. Consider adding variations to your omelette. Use different types of cheese. Limit your ingredients. Add some color to your omelette with tomatoes and spring onion. Make a ham and cheese omelette. Add sliced mushrooms to the omelette. |
https://www.wikihow.tech/Hear-Full-Stories-on-Hooked-App-on-iPhone-or-iPad | How to Hear Full Stories on Hooked App on iPhone or iPad | To turn on audio on Hooked stories, tap the speaker icon on the title page of a story, or in the upper-right corner while reading the story. | Open Hooked. Hooked is the app that has a black icon with an owl's eyes and beak. When you open Hooked, it automatically displays the last story you were reading. You can turn audio on or off by tapping the speaker icon in the upper-right corner on any story that supports audio. Swipe down on the screen. When you swipe down on the screen, it displays a banner with story title and author at the top. Tap the down arrow in the banner. Tapping the down arrow below the title and author in the banner displays a full page cover of the story with some options at the top. Tap the Hooked icon. The Hooked icon is the circular black icon with the owl's eyes and beak. It's at the top of the screen in the center. Browse stories. To browse stories, swipe left and right to browse stories by category. Swipe up on a category page to scroll and see all stories in a category. Tap a story. This displays the story's title page. If the story supports audio, there will be an audio speaker icon to the right above the story description at the bottom of the page. Tap Audio. This opens the story in the messenger format. Each messages displays automatically with actors reading the messages allowed. If the audio speaker icon is not displayed on the title screen or in-story, you cannot listen to audio for that story. To pause the story playback, tap the pause button at the bottom of the screen. | Open Hooked. Swipe down on the screen. Tap the down arrow in the banner. Tap the Hooked icon. Browse stories. Tap a story. Tap Audio. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Grow-Cashews | How to Grow Cashews | To grow cashews, start by planting cashew seeds in a sunny, outdoor area with sandy soil. Then, water the seeds once per week as they grow, and support them with stakes in the ground once they get too tall to hold themselves up. Fertilize your cashew trees once or twice a year with a fertilizer that's rich in zinc, phosphorous, and nitrogen. After about 3 years, your cashew trees should start producing fruit. | Plant your fresh cashew seed in sandy soil. Sandy soil ensures a lack of water logging. Avoid clay based soil and whatever type of soil you use, ensure that it allows for free flowing irrigation as water-logging can lead to damaging the tree. Buy cashew seeds specifically for growing from gardening supply stores. Cashews sold for consumption, even raw ones, are not viable because their protective shell has been removed. Plant your seeds 10 centimetres (3.9 in) deep to make room for expansion of roots. If you plant multiple trees, plant them 30 feet (9.1 m) away from each to ensure adequate room for growth. Using the freshest seed possible will provide the best results so plant as soon as you get hold of it. Use an area that receives moderate rainfall. Cashews can't sustain in areas with heavy rainfall or wind but can thrive in extremely hot temperatures up to 50 °C (122 °F). Because of this, tropical areas that are very warm and receive medium levels of rainfall are ideal. If there is too much rain, the roots will drown and the tree will die. Ensure your tree has access to at least 6 hours of sunlight per day. Cashew trees thrive in warm, sunny climates and if the tree doesn't receive this much sunlight then it will grow slowly and eventually may not even flower. Ideal locations for growing cashew trees include: Open fields Farmland On top of hills that will not be too windy Water the tree once a week while it is still young. This is to ensure that the root system develops adequately. Once it has matured, water the tree once a week during the summer and withhold from watering in the winter as too much water can result in the tree dying. Fertilize your tree once or twice a year. Cashew trees don't need a whole lot of fertilization but if you do decide to use a fertilizer, it should contain the following ingredients. Nitrogen Zinc (as cashew trees can sometimes be zinc deficient.) Phosphorus Support the tree with a stake. This is particularly important while the tree is young and if you live in a windy climate. Without doing this, it's possible that the tree will be blown over and die. Staking up your tree is easily done with the right supplies. Prune the tree often. This will ensure that you remove any dead or infected branches which, if left untouched, can spread to the rest of the tree. Pay special attention to overcrowded branching areas as pruning generously here will encourage high levels of growth. If diseased branches contaminate other parts of the tree, you risk having fruit infected and possibly the entire tree. Remember to be patient. It takes three years total from sowing the seeds to harvesting the fruits off of the tree. Pick the fruit once it is rosy red and the shell is a dark grey color. This color means that the fruit is ripe and the shell has fully formed. This will often occur around winter or the rainy season (depending on the type of climate you're in). Separate the shell from the fruit (cashew apple). The shell has a kidney shape and is attached to the fruit on one end. Twisting the shell should remove it from the fruit. The fruit is edible also, is full of nutrients, and many people use it in smoothies or even eat it raw. You can store the shells for up to two years before further processing. Roast the unprocessed shells on a pan covered in fine sand for 10-20 minutes. This is done because inside the shells is the nut, but also an extremely acidic, caustic oil that will burn you. It's extremely important to cover the shells with either a lid or have them submerged completely in sand during this process. The temperature needs to be around 190 °C (374 °F) for this process. Anything higher will result in vaporization of the oil into fumes (which should be avoided) and a drying out of the nut inside. Use an old baking tray or a disposable one as the residue of the oil can be difficult to fully remove after. Sieve the shells out from the sand. The shells need to be washed in water with detergent before further handling to prevent any potential contact with the remaining oil. Be careful not to make contact with your eyes or face during this process due to the possibility of remaining oil. Crack the shells. The nuts are ready to be extracted from within. They will have a coating around them that needs to be peeled carefully using the edge of a knife before proceeding to the next step. Roast the nuts in coconut oil for 5 minutes. This is done to get rid of any final residue of the toxic oil and ensure they are okay to eat. The oil should be heated to around 150 °C (302 °F). The nuts are now ready to be consumed. | Plant your fresh cashew seed in sandy soil. Plant your seeds 10 centimetres (3.9 in) deep to make room for expansion of roots. Use an area that receives moderate rainfall. Ensure your tree has access to at least 6 hours of sunlight per day. Water the tree once a week while it is still young. Fertilize your tree once or twice a year. Support the tree with a stake. Prune the tree often. Remember to be patient. Pick the fruit once it is rosy red and the shell is a dark grey color. Separate the shell from the fruit (cashew apple). Roast the unprocessed shells on a pan covered in fine sand for 10-20 minutes. Sieve the shells out from the sand. Crack the shells. Roast the nuts in coconut oil for 5 minutes. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Use-a-Washing-Machine | How to Use a Washing Machine | To use a washing machine, start by choosing a wash cycle, like normal or delicate, depending on the kind of clothes you're washing. Then, select a water temperature. The hotter the water, the cleaner your clothes will get, but you should use cold water for delicates or clothes with dyes that might bleed. If you're using a front-loading machine, pour laundry detergent into the drawer that pulls out. If you're using a top-loading machine, pour the detergent directly into the machine. Finally, load your clothes into the machine, close the door, and press the start button. | Check the tags for special washing instructions. Most clothes are machine washable, but always check the tag for further instructions. Some clothes might shrink if you use warm or hot water to wash. Some might be able to handle bleach and some might not. And some garments can't be washed in a machine, such as certain silks and delicates. Always check the label carefully. Put aside clothes that are labeled as "hand wash only" or "dry clean only". In most shirts, clothing care labels are located on the inside left side of the shirt or inside the neck area. In most pants, clothing care labels are located on the inside of the back of the pants. Separate your laundry by "colour". Dyes in clothes, especially pieces that are new, lose their colour during a wash. The colour can bleed onto other clothes and damage your entire load. When you sort your laundry by "colour", this usually means differentiating them by shade. The most basic way to sort your clothes is to separate your darks from lights and wash them separately. You can even sort them more thoroughly by colour. Darks include colours such as blacks, greys, dark blues, dark reds, and dark purples. Lights include pastel colours like whites, pinks, yellows, light blues, light greens, and lavender. Jeans or dark denims especially bleed their colour and should be washed in their own separate load. Sort your clothes by fabric weight. Additionally or alternatively, you can protect your clothes from wear and tear in the washing machine by sorting heavier fabrics from lighter weight fabrics. Most washing machines spin and toss clothes around, and the extra aggravation from heavy fabrics might ruin lightweight fabrics. As well, if you're washing a delicate or lightweight load, the cycle's settings and temperature will be different from a heavier fabric load. Delicates like lingerie, pantyhose, and washable silks should be washed separately. Heavy fabrics include items such as heavy cotton pants, bath towels, jackets, or sweaters. If you choose to sort only by fabric, you can save a lot of energy and money from having to wash multiple colour loads. Put delicates into mesh wash bags. Instead of washing delicates separately, you can place delicates into mesh wash bags to protect them from harsh wear and tear. Mesh wash bags can come in various sizes but generally are used to protect only one or a few pieces of garments. They can be washed together with a normal load. Mesh wash bags don't protect garments from colours bleeding, so be sure to wash them with similarly coloured loads. In most cases, delicates will not bleed and would be safe to wash with a light coloured load. Separate out stained clothing. Some stains need special treatment before you can put the garment into the wash. The most popular stains that need pre-treatment are grease and oil stains. Avoid washing or drying stained clothing in the machine. Certain stains set when heat is added, making them difficult to remove. Choose the right washing cycle. Wash cycles consist of two important speeds: a speed at which it agitates or tumbles the clothes with water, and a speed that spins the water out of the clothes. Depending on what you're washing, the wash cycle you choose should match what kind of fabric you're washing to help maximize cleanliness while also protecting your clothes. Normal Cycle: This cycle goes with a fast/fast approach -- it tumbles fast and spins fast. It helps with cleaning very dirty and sweaty clothes, and is what you will most likely use on a regular basis. Sturdy fabrics like cotton, linen, denim, towels, and bedding do quite well in a normal cycle. Permanent or Perm Press: This cycle goes with a fast/slow approach. These fabrics need fast agitation to be clean but a slow spin to prevent wrinkles. Use this cycle for synthetic fibres like rayons, knits, polyesters, and acetates. Synthetic fibres are known to pill, or create small balls of fibre and slow spin cycles help prevent pilling. Delicate Cycle: This cycle uses a slow/slow approach, reducing agitation and preventing wear and tear. However, the level of cleanliness decreases with its slow tumbling. This cycle is best used for specific or special garments like lingerie, sequinned clothing, laced or loosely woven fabrics, or items made of sheer fabrics like pantyhose. Special cycles: Newer models of washing machines have special cycles that do things such as sanitize, steam, or claim to protect whites and remove stains. Consult your machine's manual for further explanations on what each special cycle does. Set the water temperature. In theory, the hotter the water, the cleaner the clothes. Hot water sanitizes and kills germs better, dissolves detergents more effectively, and removes built up grime so clothes look brighter and cleaner. However, in some cases, hot water can shrink clothes, fade fabrics, set certain stains in, and can be quite expensive for your energy bill. So choose a water temperature that your fabrics can stand but also what you can afford for the best results. Use cool water in the delicate cycle for delicate items, items that have dyes that might bleed, or clothes that aren't especially dirty. Use warm water in the permanent press cycle, dark colours, and moderately dirty loads. Use hot water for bath and kitchen towels, bedding, sturdy fabrics, or any extremely dirtied items. Cold water is the most energy efficient way of washing clothes. About 90 percent of energy used in hot washing cycles is used to heat up the water. It is also the most gentlest way of washing your garments. For some machines, the water temperature is already preset according to what cycle you choose. For example, a normal cycle will most likely use hot water that is 30 °C or 40 °C (85 °F to 75 °F). Pour in detergent and other boosters like fabric softener. It's important to read your washer's manual and find out what type of detergent your machine can handle and also where to put the detergent. Most machines these days can handle liquid and power detergents, as well as other cleaning agents like bleach. Front-loading washing machines usually have a drawer to dispense detergent and will have separate compartments to place fabric softener or bleach. Your machine will dispense the detergents at the right moment for you. Top-loading washing machines require you to pour the detergent right into the drum before you start your cycle. It's best to add your detergents before you load your clothes so the high concentration of detergent doesn't stain or damage your clothes. And in some cases, it's best to turn on the water so the detergent dissolves before you load your clothes in. The amount of detergent needed varies by brand of detergent and type of washer, so check the back of the detergent box and also look for any labels on your washing machine to find out how much to use. Load your washer with clothes. This is pretty simple – just dump your clothes in, but be careful not to overcrowd your clothes. You need space for your garments to move and clean themselves. Some machines may even have options to indicate whether your load is small, medium, or heavy. This option adjusts the water levels within your wash cycle according to the size of the load. Small loads fill about a third (1/3) of your machine. Medium loads fill half (1/2) of your machine. Large loads fill three fourths (3/4) of your machine. Turn on your washer. Ah, sweet success, now all you have to do is hit that on button and you're ready to go! But remember to close the door! | Check the tags for special washing instructions. Separate your laundry by "colour". Sort your clothes by fabric weight. Put delicates into mesh wash bags. Separate out stained clothing. Choose the right washing cycle. Set the water temperature. Pour in detergent and other boosters like fabric softener. Load your washer with clothes. Turn on your washer. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Repair-a-Zipper-when-the-Slider-Has-Come-Off-Completely | How to Repair a Zipper when the Slider Has Come Off Completely | To repair a zipper when the slider has come off completely, start by pulling the teeth off the end of the zipper to expose about 2-3 inches of the fabric. Then, work the zipper pull onto the fabric, sliding it on upside down if the zipper was open when it came off or right-side up if the zipper was closed. Next, tug on both sides of the fabric above the zipper pull until you hear it click into place on the teeth. Finally, attach a top stop or square tab to prevent the zipper pull from coming off again. | Get a new zipper pull if yours is damaged. If your slider is broken and not working properly, then you will need to buy a new one. You can find a replacement zipper slider in a craft store. Make sure to get a replacement zipper pull that is the same size and style as your old one for the best results. Bring the old one along for comparison. You can also purchase a zipper repair kit at most craft stores and it will contain everything you need to replace the pull and add top stops and square tabs as needed. Otherwise, you will need to buy the replacement zipper pull, and stop tabs or top stops separately. Pull the teeth off the end of the zipper with pliers. To get the zipper back on, you will need to expose some of the fabric at the end of the zipper. Pull the zipper teeth off one at a time using a pair of pliers. Keep removing teeth until you have exposed about 2” to 3” (5 cm to 7.6 cm) of the fabric. Expose the smallest amount of fabric necessary to get the zipper pull back on. If you have a large zipper pull, then this will be closer to 3” (7.6 cm). If you have a small zipper, then you may be able to expose only an inch or two. Consider the status of the zipper before you pull off the teeth. If the zipper is open, then you will need to pull the teeth off at the bottom of the zipper. If the zipper is closed, then you will need to pull the teeth off at the top of the zipper. Make sure that you expose the same amount of fabric on both sides of the zipper as well. If the sides are uneven, then you may not be able to get the pull back on. Work the zipper pull onto the fabric. The direction of the pull will be different depending on whether the zipper was open or closed when the zipper came off. If the zipper was open, then slide the pull onto the fabric upside down, so that the pull is directed away from the zipper. If the zipper was closed, then slide the pull onto the fabric right side up, so that the pull is directed towards the zipper. Tug on the sides of the zipper above the pull. To get the zipper pull from the fabric part of the zipper to the zipper part of the zipper, you will need to tug on both sides of the fabric above the zipper pull. This will create tension and move the pull towards the zipper teeth. Keep tugging until you feel a click. This indicates that the zipper pull is on the teeth again. Test the zipper after you put the pull back on. Try to move the zipper up and down a few times to see how it is working. When the zipper is back on the zipper teeth, it should zip up and down with ease. If it is crooked or not moving, then you may need to start over and try again. Make sure that you do not zip the zipper off the track again before you secure the end with a new top stop or square tab. Consider whether top stops or square tabs are best. After removing some teeth from your zipper, you will need to replace some of the teeth with top stops and/or square tabs to prevent your zipper pull from coming off the zipper again. Top stops are small pieces that go on one side of your zipper. Square tabs are larger pieces that will bridge across your zipper and prevent the zipper from coming down on both sides while also covering the gap between the zipper sides. Top stops are best for the top of your zipper because they will prevent the slider from coming off again, but they will not prevent you from opening and closing the zipper. Square tabs (also known as zipper bottom stops) are best for the bottom of a zipper because they will prevent the zipper from coming off and cover the gap in the zipper left by the missing teeth. Squeeze a top stop onto the zipper with pliers. If you want to add a top stop to keep your zipper from coming off the slider at the top, then place the top stop right above the first tooth at the top of your zipper. The zipper will need to be slightly open for you to do this. After you have the top stop where you want it to go, use the pliers to crimp the top stop into place. Make sure that the top stop is snug and will not move or come off when you pull on it. Place a top stops on both sides of the zipper to ensure that the zipper will not come off of the track again. Push the square tab’s prongs into place. If you want to use a square tab to close the gap at the bottom of a zipper, then take the square tab and push the prongs through the zipper fabric on both sides of the zipper. Insert the prongs right below the bottom teeth of the zipper. Make sure that the zipper is closed when you do this. After pushing the prongs through, turn the garment or fabric over and use your pliers to bend the prongs inward. Make sure that you crimp the prongs down well so that the tab is secured and the prongs are flat. It is important for the prongs to be flat so that they will not snag on anything or scratch your skin. Finished. | Get a new zipper pull if yours is damaged. Pull the teeth off the end of the zipper with pliers. Work the zipper pull onto the fabric. Tug on the sides of the zipper above the pull. Test the zipper after you put the pull back on. Consider whether top stops or square tabs are best. Squeeze a top stop onto the zipper with pliers. Push the square tab’s prongs into place. Finished. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Get-Super-Glue-Out-of-Clothes | How to Get Super Glue Out of Clothes | To get super glue out of clothes, start by letting the glue dry on its own, which should take 15-20 minutes. If you're in a hurry, fill a bowl with water, add ice to make it cold, and dip the stained area into the water for a few seconds to harden the glue. Once the glue is hard, use a spoon or your fingernail to scrape it off. If you can't fully remove the glue, press a cotton ball soaked in acetone against the stain until the glue starts to break down and soften, which can take 3-15 minutes. Then, scrape the remaining glue off. | Take delicate fabrics to a professional dry cleaner. Scraping, acetone, and washing may work for most fabrics, but it can destroy delicate fabrics. Luckily, dry cleaners own products that can safely remove the glue from your fabric. Check the care label on your fabric. If it says that it must be dry cleaned, then take it to a dry cleaner. Delicate fabrics include sheers, lace, and silk. Let the glue dry on its own. Be patient and let the glue dry. If you try to tackle the glue while it is still wet, you'll only make things worse. Do not attempt to speed the process up with a dryer, or you will permanently set the stain into your garment. Soak the stained area in iced water if you are in a hurry. The glue should only take 15 to 20 minutes to dry. If you can't wait that long, fill a bowl with water, then add enough ice cubes to make it cold. Dip the stained area into the water for a few seconds, then pull it out. The iced water will have caused the glue to harden. Scrape as much of the glue off as possible. Place the garment on a hard surface, then scrape the glue off with your fingernail or the edge of a spoon. You won't be able to get all of the super glue off, but you should be able to get most of the larger chunks off. Skip this step if the fabric is loosely-woven, such as knits or delicate muslin, or you'll risk tearing it. Take a look at the affected area and decide if you need to continue. Sometimes, all you need to do is scrape the glue off. If large pieces of glue are still stick to the garment, you will need to move onto the next step: acetone. Test the garment with acetone in an inconspicuous area. Soak a cotton ball with 100% acetone, then press it against an inconspicuous area of the garment, such as a hem or seam. Wait a few seconds, then pull the cotton ball away. If you don't notice any discoloration or disintegration, you can proceed with the tutorial. If you do notice any discoloration or disintegration, stop, rinse the area with water, and take the garment to a dry cleaner. Press a cotton ball soaked in acetone against the stain. Soak another cotton ball with more 100% acetone. Press it against the stain, making sure that you avoid the other parts of the garment. This will help minimize potential damage. You can also use a piece of white fabric instead of a cotton ball. Do not use colored or patterned fabric. Wait for the glue to soften, then pull the cotton ball away. Check on the glue every few minutes. How long it will take for the glue to soften depends on how much glue there is, the exact chemical makeup of the glue, the fabric, and so forth. It can take anywhere from 3 to 15 minutes. Scrape the softened glue off. Once again, use your fingernail or the edge of a spoon to scrape the glue off. You may not be able to get all of the glue off, which is fine. The key to removing super glue safely is to take it slowly. Do not use your fingernail if you are wearing nail polish. The area is soaked in acetone now, which can dissolve the polish and stain the garment. Repeat the acetone process, if needed. While powerful, acetone can only remove the upper layers of the glue. This means that you may have to repeatedly soak and scrape the stain off. If you still see large chunks of glue, soak another cotton ball in acetone and repeat the process. Apply a laundry pre-treatment stain remover. Once most of the stain is gone, apply a laundry pre-treatment stain remover to the garment. Massage the product deep into the stain, then rinse the stain with cold water. Wash the garment using the cycle and temperature on the care tag. This will remove any final residue. Most garments can be washed in warm or cool water. If your garment no longer has the care tag, use cool water and a gentle cycle. If you do not have time to do the laundry, wash the affected area with cool water and soap. Rinse the area, then pat it dry with a towel. Wash the garment again if the stain remains. If the stain is very light, another run through the washer may be all that is needed. If the stain is still visible, you may need to repeat the acetone treatment. Do not put the garment into the dryer if the stain is still there. You can air-dry the garment, however. Dry the garment once the stain is completely gone. The safest option is to allow the garment to air dry, but you can use a dryer if you are absolutely certain that the stain is gone. If you notice any residue after washing the garment, do not put it in the dryer, otherwise you'll set the stain. If there is any residue, put it through the washer again. You can also repeat the acetone treatment, or take it to the dry cleaner. | Take delicate fabrics to a professional dry cleaner. Let the glue dry on its own. Soak the stained area in iced water if you are in a hurry. Scrape as much of the glue off as possible. Take a look at the affected area and decide if you need to continue. Test the garment with acetone in an inconspicuous area. Press a cotton ball soaked in acetone against the stain. Wait for the glue to soften, then pull the cotton ball away. Scrape the softened glue off. Repeat the acetone process, if needed. Apply a laundry pre-treatment stain remover. Wash the garment using the cycle and temperature on the care tag. Wash the garment again if the stain remains. Dry the garment once the stain is completely gone. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Calculate-Food-Cost | How to Calculate Food Cost | To calculate food cost, begin by breaking down the cost for every ingredient you use to make a menu item. Once you know the cost of all your ingredients, add each of these items up to find your total cost. Then, determine how much you sold or will sell that item for. Next, multiply the total cost by 100 and divide it by your total sales. You will then have the percentage of your budget that is potentially going to food costs. | Understand why you need this calculation. The maximum tells you what percentage of your business's operating budget can be allotted to food cost for the operation to still turn a profit. Without knowing this number, you won't be able to tell whether your actual food cost (calculated in a later section) is on target to produce your desired profit margin. Begin by calculating your operating budget. Your company's operating budget is the sum of your current and projected expenses, and your projected profit. To calculate the month-to-month operating budget, you need to keep the following amounts in mind: Target profit Hourly labor (servers, dishwashers, etc.) Salaried labor (managers, owners, head chef, etc.) Utilities (gas, electric, water, wifi, etc.) Fixed costs (rent, mortgage payments, insurance, etc.) Fees and licenses (taxes, liquor license, business license, food handling permits, etc.) Supplies (cleaning supplies, non-food cooking supplies, plates, carryout packaging) Marketing Maintenance Determine how much money you can afford to spend each month. Opening a small business is a big risk, even for experienced restaurateurs. To give your restaurant or catering company a fighting chance, you have to be willing to invest in it — but you also have to protect your own interests to make sure you don't bankrupt yourself. Take advantage of small businesses loans and grants, both from private banks and from federal programs. Consider taking on a business partner to increase your investment; a partner might actively work in the business with you or simply invest funds and collect profits. Assess your personal finances: create a monthly household budget including rent/mortgage, vehicles, food, personal insurance, and all other personal considerations. Do not sacrifice your personal stability for the sake of your business. Examine the repayment options on your loans. Beyond basic awareness of your interest rates, you should also know if you plan to make minimum payments, or begin paying off the loan as soon as possible. How much of your personal money and business income will be diverted to loan repayment? How much is left over? After taking personal finances and loan repayment into consideration, determine how much money can be invested in the business on a monthly basis. Compare this amount to your operating budget. If you cannot afford to meet it, you should adjust your operating budget instead of stretching your finances. Consider enlisting the help of your accountant or banker to help you figure out how far you can safely stretch your finances. Calculate a budget percentage for each of these costs. Once you've figured out how much you can spend every month, figure out what percentage of your monthly budget is allotted to each of the monthly costs calculated in Step 2. For example, say you can afford to spend $70,000 per month on your restaurant. You and your manager each draw salaried paychecks of $3,500 per month. Combined, salaried paychecks cost $7,000 a month, or 10% of your budget. Figure out your maximum allowable food cost per month. Once you have a percentage for each of these amounts, add those amounts up. Whatever percentage is left over in your budget is the maximum amount you can spend on food in order to reach your target profit amount. Salaries (10%) + Hourly wages (17%) + Supplies (5%) + Utilities (6%) + Marketing (4%) + Fees and Licenses (3%) + Maintenance (4%) + Fixed Costs (21%) + Target Profit (5%) = 75% In this example, 75% of your maximum budget is devoted to everything but food cost. To calculate your maximum allowable food cost, subtract that amount from 100%. 100% - 75% = 25% If your monthly budget is $70,000, you can afford to spend up to $70,000 x 0.25 = $17,500 on food cost to reach the 5% profit ($70,000 x 0.05 = $3,500) every month. Choose a date that will begin each weekly assessment period for you. Just as you pay rent, utilities, etc. on the same date each month, you should calculate your food cost based on a regular time period. You should analyze your inventory at the same time every week — perhaps every Sunday, either before or after the kitchen opens. Always take inventory outside of business hours, so no food is being delivered or being cooked. Determine your “opening inventory. ” On the day that begins your “fiscal week” — Sunday, in our case — do a thorough inspection of all the food products in your kitchen. It's important that you're as accurate as possible, so look at your receipts to see how much you paid for each food item. For example, you may have paid $48 for 35 lbs. of frying oil, of which 5 lbs. are left at the beginning of the fiscal week. Calculate exactly how much that 5 lbs. of oil is worth at the opening of your inventory period: ($48 ÷ 35 lbs.) = (X ÷ 5 lbs.) When you solve for X, you see that you have about $6.86 worth of frying oil at the beginning of the fiscal week. Repeat this calculation procedure for every food item you have. Add up all the sums to determine your opening inventory — the dollar amount for the food in your kitchen at the beginning of the fiscal week. Track your purchases. Throughout the week, you will order more food supplies as necessary, based on what's selling best on your menu. Keep all purchase receipts neatly organized in your office so you know exactly how much you spent on food purchases during the day. Take inventory again at the beginning of your next fiscal week. Repeat the process outlined in Step 2. This will give you a number that serves two functions: it is the opening inventory for the next week and the “ending inventory” for the current week. You now know how much food you started the week with, how much you bought, and how much you ended with. Find out how much you made in food sales during the week. At the end of each shift, the restaurant manager should calculate total sales. Look at your sales reports for each day of the week and add them up to calculate your weekly food sales. Calculate your actual food cost for the week. In Part 1 of this article, you calculated your maximum allowable food cost as a percentage of your total budget. Now, you need to calculate what percentage of your budget is actually being spent on food. When you compare those two percentages to each other, you can see whether you're spending too much money on food to keep your business afloat. To calculate actual food cost, complete the following equation: Food Cost % = (Beginning Inventory + Purchases – Ending Inventory) ÷ Food Sales. For our example, let's say Beginning Inventory = $10,000; Purchases = $2,000; Ending Inventory = $10,500; Food Sales = $5,000 (10,000 + 2,000 – 10,500) ÷ 5,000 = 0.30 = 30% Compare your maximum allowable and actual food costs. In the example, there is a maximum allowable food cast of 25%, and an actual food cost of 30%. This indicates that the person is spending too much money on food cost to reach a target profit of 5%. Adjust your purchasing every week to keep your inventory in check. You want to bring down your actual food cost to a percentage at or below your maximum allowable food cost. Keep in mind that this calculation can go wrong if you counted items incorrectly during inventory, counted and input units differently than the inventory pricing (such as by counting 10 cans of tomatoes, but being charged by the case for that item), are missing the invoice for a product you counted in the inventory, or having an invoice processed for a product that you do not have (such as a returned item). Calculate your total cost. For each item on your menu, figure out how much it costs you to make the dish. For example, the breakdown for a cheeseburger might be as follows: $0.21 for the bun; $0.06 for 1 oz. mayonnaise; $0.06 for 1 onion slice; $0.14 for 2 tomato slices; $0.80 for 8 oz. burger meat; $0.02 for ¼ oz. ketchup and mustard; $0.04 for 4 pickle slices; $0.06 for 1 oz. lettuce; $0.18 for 2 slices American cheese; and $0.23 for a side of French fries. Your food cost for the cheeseburger on the menu is $1.83. Multiply the food cost for each item by how many portions of that item is sold every week. Add all of those sums together to find your total cost. For our example, let's say you have a total cost of $3,000. That's how much money you spent to make the food that went out of your kitchen this week. Make sure that all of your items are carefully portion controlled. This will help to ensure that every chef serves the same meal at the same cost. Figure out your total sales. Now that you've calculated how much money you spent to feed your customers, you need to figure out how much money you made off of each item in the process. For each menu item, multiply the sales price by how many portions of that items were sold in a week. Add the sale amounts for every item on your menu together to calculate your total sales. In our example, let's say you took in $8,000 in total sales for the week. Find out your potential food cost. To calculate your potential food cost, multiply the total cost by 100, then divide that number by your total sales. In our example, we would complete the following equation: ($3,000 X 100) ÷ $8,000 = 37.5. Our potential food cost is 37.5% of our budget. Analyze your potential food cost. You now know how much money you can make off your menu items in a given week. Compare that against your maximum allowable food cost to figure out if your menu's prices need adjustment. In our case, the maximum allowable food cost from Part 1 is 25%, and our potential food cost is 37.5% We have a big problem! We need to bring up our total sales so that the potential food cost percentage comes down, reaching the 25% figure we're aiming for. We do that by raising the prices on our menu. You might increase every item on your menu in price by a small amount — maybe 25 cents if your items are fairly inexpensive, maybe $2-3 if they cost a little bit more. Look at your sales figures to see which menu items are most popular with your clientele. You can raise the price on popular items a little more than your less popular items — people will likely be willing to pay for it. Consider getting rid of dishes that don't sell very well. They don't have much earning potential. Continually reassess your menu to make sure you're moving all of the product in your inventory. | Understand why you need this calculation. Begin by calculating your operating budget. Determine how much money you can afford to spend each month. Calculate a budget percentage for each of these costs. Figure out your maximum allowable food cost per month. Choose a date that will begin each weekly assessment period for you. Determine your “opening inventory. Track your purchases. Take inventory again at the beginning of your next fiscal week. Find out how much you made in food sales during the week. Calculate your actual food cost for the week. Compare your maximum allowable and actual food costs. Calculate your total cost. Figure out your total sales. Find out your potential food cost. Analyze your potential food cost. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Prune-Desert-Rose | How to Prune Desert Rose | Desert roses only require minor pruning throughout the year, but you'll need to do a heavy prune once every few years. Do a minor trim in the spring of each year to trim a few branches and keep your roses healthy. Cut away any tangled, thin, or rotting branches. You'll know a branch is rotting if it's dark brown, black, or yellow. Do a hard prune in the winter every 2 or 3 years to reduce the size of your roses. Aim to cut about ⅓ off each branch. Whether you're doing a minor or major trim, always cut branches at 45-degree angles just above the flower nodes or junctions. This will encourage them to grow back healthy. Remember to use gloves when pruning, since the sap that oozes from cut branches can irritate your skin. | Sterilize your cutting tool with rubbing alcohol or bleach before pruning. Wipe or spray your cutting blade or pruning shears with rubbing alcohol. If you don't have rubbing alcohol, you can use a 10% bleach solution. Disinfecting the cutting tool prevents the transfer of disease to your plant. If you're pruning more than 1 desert rose plant, sterilize the cutting tool before pruning the next plant. Wear gloves to protect your hands when pruning. Use gardening or leather gloves when you begin to prune the desert rose. You'll notice sap ooze from the cuts on the plant. It's important to protect your hands because the sap can irritate your skin, causing a rash or itchy sensation. Remember to keep kids and pets away from the desert rose as you're pruning it. Dispose of the branches after removing them. Once you've pruned your branches or blossoms, place them in your yard waste bin. Remember to keep wearing the gloves when you're handling the cut pieces. They'll still be sticky and the sap would irritate your bare skin. Do a hard prune to reduce the size of the rose plant. To dramatically cut back your desert rose, do a hard prune. This will allow you to clear out leggy branches or reduce the size of the plant. Limit hard pruning to once every 2 to 3 years. If your desert rose is planted outside, it's still a good idea to do a hard prune since this will help it flower in the spring. Do a minor prune to encourage new growth. If you want to keep the plant healthy or trim away a few branches that seem out of place, do a minor prune. Depending on the growing season in your area, this can help your desert rose blossom again within the season. You can do minor pruning every year. Make strategic cuts to shape the desert rose to your liking. Desert roses take a long time to put on growth, but if your plant is in the ground, it could grow to the size of a small tree or shrub. Decide how big you'd like your desert rose to become, so you know how much to prune. Because desert roses can be shaped like bonsai, it's up to you to choose if you want 1 or 2 distinctive branches or if you want a natural-looking rounded shape. If your plant is in a container pot, it will slowly grow to fill the space. You may want to do minor pruning to encourage your plant to produce more flowers. Do hard pruning in winter and minor pruning in spring. Plan on hard pruning at the beginning of winter or before you bring it inside (if it's in a container). Since the plant won't put on growth during this time, it can store its energy more effectively once it's been cut back. Wait until the end of spring or beginning of summer to do minor pruning to give your plant a chance to heal before it blooms Cut at a 45-degree angle above the flower nodes or junctions. Once you've decided the shape you want the desert rose to have, you can identify which branches you'll need to cut back. Use your sterilized cutting tool to cut about 1 inch (2.5 cm) above the flower node or junction where the branches split. Cutting at a 45-degree angle allows the branch to heal more quickly. If you cut at a 90-degree angle, water can collect in the branch and cause it to rot. Remove diseased branches. Look at the desert rose for any rotting branches that are black, dark brown, or yellow. Cut off these branches at a 45-degree angle. When you prune these branches, cut enough of the branch that only the healthy part remains For example, if you cut away a rotten branch and see black or brown in the branch close to the caudex, make another cut that's closer to the caudex so you get to healthy tissue. Prune damaged or crossed branches. Check the desert rose for any branches that are tangled or growing into the center of the plant. If any branches are broken, thin, or leggy, you might want to prune them too. Remember to prune these away at a 45-degree angle. Cut 1/3 of the way down each branch if you're doing a hard prune. Use your disinfected pruning shears or cutting blade to cut back each branch at a 45-degree angle. For example, if 1 branch is 6 inches (15 cm) long, you'd cut 2 inches (5 cm) off of it. Or if another branch is 9 inches (22 cm) long, prune away 3 inches (7.5 cm). If you're cutting a desert rose that's the size of a small tree or shrub, you may want to use sterilized loppers to make pruning easier. Make cuts that shape the desert rose. If you're cutting to dramatically change the shape of the plant, step back and look at which branches will need to be cut. For example, you might need to completely cut back branches that stick out to the side if you're trying to create a small, rounded desert rose. | Sterilize your cutting tool with rubbing alcohol or bleach before pruning. Wear gloves to protect your hands when pruning. Dispose of the branches after removing them. Do a hard prune to reduce the size of the rose plant. Do a minor prune to encourage new growth. Make strategic cuts to shape the desert rose to your liking. Do hard pruning in winter and minor pruning in spring. Cut at a 45-degree angle above the flower nodes or junctions. Remove diseased branches. Prune damaged or crossed branches. Cut 1/3 of the way down each branch if you're doing a hard prune. Make cuts that shape the desert rose. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Cook-Corned-Beef-in-the-Oven | How to Cook Corned Beef in the Oven | To cook corned beef in the oven, start by draining the brine from the packaging and placing the corned beef fat side up on a large piece of aluminum foil. Next, trim the excess fat from the brisket and poke 10 to 15 small holes in the top fattier side to tenderize the meat. Then, season the meat according to your taste. Finally, cover it with aluminum foil, place it in a shallow roasting pan, and bake it for 2 hours at 350 degrees Fahrenheit. | Preheat Oven to 350˚ F (177˚ C)
Drain the corned beef brisket. Store-bought corned beef usually comes wrapped in plastic to keep the beef moist in brine, a solution of salt in water. Cut the package open and allow the liquid to completely drain. Discard or save seasoning packet (used for boiling method). If corned beef is homemade, drain brining liquid. Place the corned beef, fat side up, on a large piece of heavy-duty aluminum foil. Trim excess fat from the brisket using a sharp knife (if necessary). Poke 10 to 15 small holes in the top (fattier side). This process, known as jaccarding, tenderizes the meat by cutting the connective tissue. Insert cloves into the top of the corned beef, evenly spaced. Spread sweet hot honey mustard over the top of the corned beef brisket. Sprinkle brown sugar over the honey mustard. Cover the corned beef brisket with a large sheet of heavy-duty aluminum foil. Arrange the foil to allow for a small amount of space between the top of the brisket and foil. Secure the bottom piece of foil to top piece to keep juices that are released during cooking to remain within foil wrapping. Place the foil-wrapped corned beef on a shallow roasting pan. Set a roasting pan on the middle rack of the oven. Bake for approximately two hours. Check the corned beef every thirty minutes to ensure brisket doesn't become too dry. The meat should be flaking apart by the end of the cooking period. Remove roasting pan from oven. Open the aluminum foil cover carefully. Spread additional sweet hot honey mustard over top of brisket. Place the roasting pan back in the oven with corned beef uncovered and roast for 2-3 minutes. Allow the top of the brisket to become bubbly and golden brown. Remove the corned beef from oven and place on cutting board. Allow corned beef to rest, undisturbed, for 5-10 minutes. Slice the corned beef at a diagonal, across the grain of the meat, into 1⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) thick slices. Serve immediately with your choice of delicious side dishes. | Preheat Oven to 350˚ F (177˚ C)
Drain the corned beef brisket. Place the corned beef, fat side up, on a large piece of heavy-duty aluminum foil. Trim excess fat from the brisket using a sharp knife (if necessary). Poke 10 to 15 small holes in the top (fattier side). Insert cloves into the top of the corned beef, evenly spaced. Spread sweet hot honey mustard over the top of the corned beef brisket. Sprinkle brown sugar over the honey mustard. Cover the corned beef brisket with a large sheet of heavy-duty aluminum foil. Place the foil-wrapped corned beef on a shallow roasting pan. Set a roasting pan on the middle rack of the oven. Bake for approximately two hours. Remove roasting pan from oven. Open the aluminum foil cover carefully. Spread additional sweet hot honey mustard over top of brisket. Place the roasting pan back in the oven with corned beef uncovered and roast for 2-3 minutes. Remove the corned beef from oven and place on cutting board. Allow corned beef to rest, undisturbed, for 5-10 minutes. Slice the corned beef at a diagonal, across the grain of the meat, into 1⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) thick slices. Serve immediately with your choice of delicious side dishes. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Fold-Table-Napkins | How to Fold Table Napkins | To fold a table napkin into a rose, start by putting a square napkin on a level surface and folding each corner to the center. After the corners are folded, flip the napkin over and fold each corner to the center again so you see two small triangles. Once you have these triangles, place a glass with a round bottom on the center of the napkin so that it covers each of the four tips. Then, while holding the glass in place with one hand, use your other hand to pull out the folds underneath each corner so that the tips are about ¼ inch out from the top corner and create the appearance of petals. Now remove the glass to see your finished rose fold! | Collect your materials. To make a fan fold, you will need a pressed square napkin, a flat surface to work on, and either a glass or plate. You can either place the finished fan fold on a dinner plate, or in an empty glass. You can use either cloth or paper napkins, though cloth will look more elegant and refined. Cloth napkins are also reusable so you can continue to use them for other special occasions. Set a pressed square napkin onto a dinner table. The bigger the napkin, the larger your fan will be. Smooth the napkin out by hand so there aren't any wrinkles. Fold the napkin in half horizontally. The napkin should now be a rectangle. Orient the open half where the two edges meet towards you. Fold the napkin 2 inches in from the side. Starting on one end, take approximately two inches of fabric and fold it in towards the center. You will continue folding the napkin like an accordion, taking two inches of fabric and folding it towards the center of the napkin. Stop folding when you have approximately four inches of unfolded napkin left. Grasp the fan on either edge. Now, fold the napkin in half horizontally bringing the two bottom edges of the fan together. Your fan should now be folded in half with the extra four inches of unfolded napkin hanging on the inside fold of the fan. If the unfolded napkin is on the outside of the fan, unfold the fan and refold it the opposite way. Grasp the unfolded corners of the napkin. Take the unfolded corners that are part of the four inches of unfolded napkin section. Tuck the top corners unfolded napkin section into where the two halves of the fan meet. This will make a triangular edge along the unfolded section. Make sure to tuck it securely to make a sturdy base. Set the base of the fan on the plate. Let the napkin fan out into a semi-circle. The base that you've created from folding the unfolded corners of the napkin will act as a base to keep your napkin fan standing. Be aware that this fan is delicate. The fan may fall and unfold if you try to move the dinner plate that it is resting on. Modify the fan, if desired. You can use the same basic technique of the standing fold to create a fan that can be placed inside of a glass. Rather than leaving four unfolded inches, fold the entire napkin like an accordion. Now that the napkin is fully folded, take one end of the fan and fold approximately one inch over. Allow the fan to open up. Place the folded end of the fan into your glass and spread the rest of the fan out. This technique is called the goblet fan. Collect your materials. For this fold, you will need a square napkin, a level surface to work on, and silverware. You can use either a paper or cloth napkin for this fold, though cloth will look more impressive. This fold works best with a napkin that has been lightly starched. Starch helps the napkin hold creases and folds. However, be careful not to overuse starch since it makes the napkin unpleasant to use while eating. Set your lightly starched square napkin onto a level surface. Smooth out any noticeable wrinkles with your hands before you begin. Fold the napkin in half. Smooth the fold to crease the napkin. The crease will help the silverware pocket retain its shape. Your napkin should be in a rectangular shape with the open ends oriented towards you. Fold the napkin horizontally. Now your napkin should be a quarter of its original size since it has been folded in half twice. The napkin should be oriented so that the open corner is facing to the left. Take the top layer and fold it down. You will take the top left corner of the square and fold it down diagonally to the bottom right corner. Make sure you only take the top layer of the square and fold it. Press down on the fold to make a crease. Flip the napkin over. The folded triangle will now be on the bottom and the full square will be on top. The open corner of the square should now be on the top right hand side. Fold the right side over. Take the right side of the square and fold it over towards the middle. You will fold approximately one third of the napkin towards the center so the right edge of the napkin is now in the center of the rectangle. You will see a small triangle appear on the right side now that you've brought the triangle fold to the front. Press down on the fold to make a crease. Fold the left side over. Now, you will repeat a similar action for the left side. Take the left side and fold it approximately one third of the way over. You will fit the edge of the bottom left side into the small triangle fold that was on the bottom of the right side. Press down on the folds you've made to crease them. Flip the napkin over. You will now see a pocket that your silverware can fit into. Press down on the folds again to make sure that they are secure. Add your silverware. Now that your fold is finished, you can arrange your silverware inside of the fold. This fold is great for dinner parties since the folded pocket is an attractive way to hold your guests' silverware. Collect your materials. For the pyramid fold you will need a square napkin, a flat surface to work on, and a plate to place your finished pyramid on. Set a square napkin onto your table. Adjust the corners so that it is a diamond shape facing you, rather than in a square. Make sure to smooth out noticeable wrinkles by hand before you start. Fold the napkin in half. Here, you will bring the bottom point of the diamond to meet the top point. You will now have a napkin that looks like a triangle. Press down on the fold to crease it. Bring the left corner in to meet the top point. Take the left corner and fold it in and up to meet the top corner of the triangle. You will now have a napkin that has a triangle with three equal length sides on the left half and a long triangle on the right side. Bring the right corner in to meet the top point. You will repeat the action that you just used with the left side on the right side. Pulling the right corner up and in to meet the top corner of the triangle, you will now have two sides that are identical. Your napkin will now be back in a diamond shape with the open sides facing away from you. Flip the napkin over. Flip the napkin over so you no longer see the folds. Fold the bottom point of the diamond to the top point. Your napkin will now look like a triangle. You will see a fold going down the center of the triangle. Press on these folds to crease them and keep them smooth. Gently pull the center fold up. Take the fold going down the center of the triangle and pull it up. The edges of the triangle should drop to the bottom, creating a base. Pinch the outer triangle points together. This will straighten the pyramid and keep your folds secure. Now that you have your pyramid, you can set the finished product on your plate. Collect your materials. In order to make a rose fold, you will need a square napkin, a level surface to work on, and a glass with a round bottom. There are multiple variations of the rose fold that vary in complexity. This is a basic rose fold that can be used for decorative purposes. The rose fold also looks great with paper napkins to display with cocktails. Put your napkin on a level surface. Be sure to smooth out any visible wrinkles and orient the napkin as a square. Fold each corner to the center. Take each corner, one at a time, and fold it to the center of the square. Each corner will now become a smaller triangle with a point in the middle. Repeat until all four corners are folded. Your napkin should now be oriented like a diamond. Turn the napkin over. Make sure the folds remain intact while you flip the napkin. Fold each corner to the center again. Now, you will repeat the same folding process with each corner. As you fold each corner towards the center, you will see two small triangles appear. Place a glass on the center of the napkin. The glass needs to be large enough to cover each of the four tips. The glass will keep the corners in place as you move to the next steps of the process. Press down on the glass to hold it in place with your non-dominant hand. Reach underneath one corner. Pull the fold out gently until the tip is approximately 1/4 inch further out than the top corner.. By pulling the tips of the fold out, you'll create the petal shapes of the rose. Made sure you are still holding onto the glass with your non-dominant hand so the rest of the corners stay secure. Repeat with each corner. Repeat the process of pulling the tip out with each of the remaining corners.. Remember to maintain the pressure on the glass so the rest of the napkin doesn't unfold. Remove the glass. Once each corner has been pulled out to make the petal shape, you can remove the glass. Now that the rose fold is finished, you can place it on a dinner plate to display. You can use this fold to display smaller bowls or plates that are placed on top of the inner corners. | Collect your materials. Set a pressed square napkin onto a dinner table. Fold the napkin in half horizontally. Fold the napkin 2 inches in from the side. Grasp the fan on either edge. Grasp the unfolded corners of the napkin. Set the base of the fan on the plate. Modify the fan, if desired. Collect your materials. Set your lightly starched square napkin onto a level surface. Fold the napkin in half. Fold the napkin horizontally. Take the top layer and fold it down. Flip the napkin over. Fold the right side over. Fold the left side over. Flip the napkin over. Add your silverware. Collect your materials. Set a square napkin onto your table. Fold the napkin in half. Bring the left corner in to meet the top point. Bring the right corner in to meet the top point. Flip the napkin over. Gently pull the center fold up. Pinch the outer triangle points together. Collect your materials. Put your napkin on a level surface. Fold each corner to the center. Fold each corner to the center again. Place a glass on the center of the napkin. Reach underneath one corner. Repeat with each corner. Remove the glass. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Train-Your-Rottweiler-Puppy-with-Simple-Commands | How to Train Your Rottweiler Puppy with Simple Commands | To train your Rottweiler puppy, start training sessions when your puppy is about 8 to 10 weeks old. Then, begin with one word commands, like "sit" or "quiet." If you want to teach your puppy to stop doing something, say "stop" before moving it away from the object it's playing with. Make sure to have your training sessions when your puppy is relaxed and alert so that it can focus on what you're saying. Additionally, keep sessions to 10 minutes in length to start with so that your puppy doesn't get bored or distracted. | Start early and short. Puppies can be taught simple commands starting at seven to eight weeks of age. The key to training is to make each session fun and short. A minute or two for each month of age up to 6 months is a good ballpark figure. Trying to do more than that will not benefit you or the dog because his attention span can't handle it. Reward your pet. Reward-based training is one of the most positive and effective way to train your Rottweiler puppy. Positive reinforcement, such as a small piece of a tasty treat or lavish praise, should be given immediately when the puppy obeys the command. Keep a bag of small, tasty treats handy, such as tiny cubes of cheese or very small pieces of cooked chicken, to immediately reward your pup for any steps towards learning the new command or cue. Once the puppy is consistently obeying your command, the treats can be given intermittently then gradually phased out, replaced with consistent praise. If you fail to reward immediately, the puppy will become confused as to what you expect from her or him. Learn the right kinds of commands. The commands used need to be short, one or at the most two words. Keep your voice friendly. Always praise your puppy for any attempt in the right direction, and absolutely never yell or hit your puppy. Your pup is obeying you because he wants to please you at this point, so remind him that he is pleasing you with his obedience. Be consistent. Each of these principles can be used for all the commands you use for training. The key to the reward system is to reward immediately, be consistent, and use simple command words. The best time to conduct a training session is when the puppy is relaxed and alert. Never train when the puppy is sleepy, wound up, or not feeling well. You want his mind completely on the training session and his attention on you. Train for the right amount of time. When you start training your dog, perform the commands for 10 to 15 minutes at a time. During this time period, spread out which commands you teach. Try five to 15 repetitions of one command, then move on to another one and do five to 15 repetitions of it. Once the time is over, reward your pet and praise him. You can do this up to three times a day with different commands. You should also start with shorter time periods he has to stay in each command as well. When you are first teaching him to sit, for example, try to make him sit for three seconds before rewarding him. As he learns, move the time up, increasing until he can stay for 30 seconds or longer. Teach ‘No bite’. The first training sessions should be to teach the puppy not to bite. You should have plenty of toys for your Rottweiler puppy on hand at all times. Puppies go through a teething stage and will bite your fingers or hand during play. If he does nip, say “No bite.” Play act that the puppy has hurt you, with mock yelping or squealing. After that, get up and leave. This gives the dog the message that biting ends the game. Avoid tapping a puppy on the nose as this will over excite him and make him more likely to bite. Command ‘No chew’. Chewing is a natural behavior for a puppy, but it can be destructive on a household. Diversion from an item you don't want chewed to another you would rather the puppy chew on works well. For example, if you find your puppy chewing on a book, take the book away, put it out of reach, and give them a toy to chew on. As remove the book, say “no chew.” Your puppy will eventually understand what he can and cannot chew. Tell him to be ‘Quiet’. You may want your puppy to bark when visitors or un-welcomed guests come to your home. However, your puppy should learn the command “Quiet” for those times when barking is a nuisance. Keep your bag of small treats with you at all times and when the puppy begins to bark, say “Quiet.” When the puppy hushes immediately, give him the reward so he associates the word “Quiet” with stopping barking. This may take some time, but he will eventually understand that you expect him to hush when you say quiet. Consistency and patience is the key in making this work for the both of you. Teach ‘No’ or ‘Stop’. It is important for your dog to learn the meaning of 'no' or 'stop'. You can use either one, but the use of it must be consistent. Rottweiler puppies are very playful and love mouth items. If your puppy nibbles on you or things other than toys or picks up items he shouldn't, it is very, very important for him to learn 'no!' or 'stop'. When teaching this to your puppy, always be firm and consistent. Once you have voiced the command, immediately move your dog away from whatever it is doing and once again say 'stop'. Walk away from your puppy, but don't take your eye off of him. If he goes back, repeat this process. This will be frustrating but you must do it. Otherwise, your puppy will grow up not knowing right from wrong. Command ‘Sit’. After learning the “no” or “stop” command, you will want to teach your Rottweiler how to 'Sit'. Sitting makes grooming, feeding, playing, and relaxing much easier. It is also one of the easiest things to teach. Put a treat in your hand, letting the puppy see the treat. Have your puppy stand in front of you and firmly say 'sit'. Hold the treat on a level with the puppy's nose, then gently arc the treat backwards over his head. As he follows the treat with his nose to try and get it, his bottom will sink to the ground. Immediately say "Sit" to label the behavior he has just learned, and give the treat. It is good practice to have your puppy sit before placing his food down for him to eat. This teaches him 'table' manners. While he is sitting, shower him with praise, such as “good puppy” or “smart puppy”, while saying the word 'sit' a few times. Repeat this process by moving away from your puppy, turning to face him, making sure you have his full attention, and tell him to 'sit'. Praise him as you did before. Work on the sit command for five to seven days until he is sitting promptly and consistently without the treat reward. Tell him to get ‘Down’. Once he has learned to sit, you can teach him the 'Down' command. Put the puppy in the sit position while putting a treat in your hand. Make sure he knows you have the treat in your hand, and put your hand near his nose. While moving your hand to the floor say 'down' or 'lay down'. The puppy will follow your hand to the floor by starting to lay down. As soon as he does, give the treat and praise him. He may make partial attempts at first, but he'll get it. Practice this new command for up to a week until he has thoroughly learned it. The 'Down' command can be useful if your puppy is a jumper. Jumping on people can be a problem with puppies as they try to get your attention. If your puppy is a jumper, keep a leash on him to be able to correct him with 'down' as he starts to jump. Then give him the command to 'sit'. Reward him when he promptly responds with a tasty treat. He will soon learn that jumping is not an acceptable behavior. Teach ‘Stay’. Rottweilers will always want to be in your company. He will always want to be next to you, around you, or even on you. But he will eventually get in your way. Teaching your Rottweiler puppy to 'stay' keeps him from getting in the way of you, other people, and other dogs. Tell your dog to 'sit' first, as it is much easier to have him sit and allow him to 'stay'. Once he sits, praise him and put your hand in front of his face, wide open like a stop sign. Firmly say 'stay', then back away slowly. He will most likely run up it to you, but have him sit again. Then put your hand in front of him once again, say 'stay', back away while all the while repeating 'stay'. If he runs up to you, you will have to do it again. Once he stays, don't let him come to you. Instead, go to him, praise him, and give him a treat. Repeat this process while going farther away from him than you did the previous time until your puppy is consistently staying. Tell him to ‘Come’. A very important command to learn is 'come.' If your puppy is ever running toward danger or in danger while away from you, a puppy that has a solid understanding of the 'come' command can be quickly recalled to your side. While your puppy is away from you, crouch down, slap your thighs and say 'come' in a friendly voice. No doubt your puppy will run to you eager to play with you. Reward him with a little treat and a bit of play. Work on this command at various times for a few weeks. If your puppy is far away from you, slap your thighs and say 'come' in an appealing, happy voice. Once he comes to you, praise him and repeat the word 'come' a few times. Then, throw a treat and or a toy far away from you and watch him run after it. Once he gets there, tell your dog to 'come' again. He might not do it at first, but you'll have to repeat it. If necessary, always have a treat or a toy that he loves more than the one you threw. Wave it to him once he looks up and say 'come!'. Once he comes over, praise and repeat. A little work and effort on your part will help your puppy retain this very important command. Command ‘Paw’. Teaching your dog to 'paw' is also an easy and useful command. If you plan on clipping or filing your Rottweiler's nails, this is necessary. Have your puppy sit, then say 'paw' and reach down, take his paw in your hand and then praise and pet him. Repeat this process four times and then ask your dog to 'paw' without you lifting his paw. If he is able to do it, praise him and give him a treat. Paw is just as easy as 'sit' and it should not take long to learn. | Start early and short. Reward your pet. Learn the right kinds of commands. Be consistent. Train for the right amount of time. Teach ‘No bite’. Command ‘No chew’. Tell him to be ‘Quiet’. Teach ‘No’ or ‘Stop’. Command ‘Sit’. Tell him to get ‘Down’. Teach ‘Stay’. Tell him to ‘Come’. Command ‘Paw’. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Draw-Bowser | How to Draw Bowser | To draw Bowser, start by drawing a circle for his head with a smaller circle inside for the cheeks. Then, make an oval shape about twice the size of the head for the body, and add ovals for the arms and legs. Next, add a large oval at the back for his turtle shell, and a teardrop for the tail. Additionally, include details like his horns, nails, and spikes before erasing any unnecessary lines and coloring in your drawing. | Draw a circle for the head
Draw a smaller circle with in the Head for the cheek and two bean shapes for the upper and lower jaw. Draw an oval or circular shape roughly twice the head’s size for the body. Draw two elongated tilted ovals for the arms and horizontal ovals for the thighs. Draw ovals for lower arms and calf (the position is entirely up to you). Draw a huge oval at the back of the body for the turtle shell, a curved and elongated teardrop shape for the tail, two circles for the hands and two ovals for the feet. Erase overlapping and unnecessary lines for a cleaner outline (by now you will have a mannequin Bowser). Draw and ink the final line art and add details for the face, hair, horns, nails and spikes. Erase unnecessary lines and guide drawings. Color your Bowser. Draw a circle for the head. Draw a bean shape covering the lower half of the circle. This will be Bowser's snout. Draw another circle about the same size as the first one for the body. Draw two elongated ovals for the arms and two circles at the bottom for the legs.Bowser
Draw two triangles at the bottom for the feet and a third triangle at the back for the tail. Draw an oval shape at the front of the “body” for stomach, two horns on top of the “head” and some spikes at the back and tail portion. Draw the details for arms and feet (claws, nails, arm bands). Draw details for the head (hair, eyes, nose, mouth). Finalize the drawing and add some finishing touches to the line art. Erase all unnecessary lines. Color until it really looks like Bowser! | Draw a circle for the head
Draw a smaller circle with in the Head for the cheek and two bean shapes for the upper and lower jaw. Draw an oval or circular shape roughly twice the head’s size for the body. Draw two elongated tilted ovals for the arms and horizontal ovals for the thighs. Draw ovals for lower arms and calf (the position is entirely up to you). Draw a huge oval at the back of the body for the turtle shell, a curved and elongated teardrop shape for the tail, two circles for the hands and two ovals for the feet. Erase overlapping and unnecessary lines for a cleaner outline (by now you will have a mannequin Bowser). Draw and ink the final line art and add details for the face, hair, horns, nails and spikes. Erase unnecessary lines and guide drawings. Color your Bowser. Draw a circle for the head. Draw a bean shape covering the lower half of the circle. Draw another circle about the same size as the first one for the body. Draw two elongated ovals for the arms and two circles at the bottom for the legs.Bowser
Draw two triangles at the bottom for the feet and a third triangle at the back for the tail. Draw an oval shape at the front of the “body” for stomach, two horns on top of the “head” and some spikes at the back and tail portion. Draw the details for arms and feet (claws, nails, arm bands). Draw details for the head (hair, eyes, nose, mouth). Finalize the drawing and add some finishing touches to the line art. Erase all unnecessary lines. Color until it really looks like Bowser! |
https://www.wikihow.com/Apply-Urea-Fertilizer | How to Apply Urea Fertilizer | When applying urea fertilizer, make sure the outside temperature is between 32 degrees and 60 degrees Fahrenheit. If it's too hot or too cold, the urea won't properly absorb into the soil. Before you spread the urea pellets or granules, water the area, as this will help get more ammonia trapped in the ground. As you sprinkle the urea, keep it close to the plant's roots or close to where you are planting seeds. Try tilling your field or garden as you apply the urea to fully incorporate it into your soil. However, if you're growing corn, make sure to apply urea indirectly, since direct exposure is toxic to corn seeds and can reduce your yield dramatically. | Minimize ammonia loss by applying urea on a cool day. Urea is best applied on a cool day, in weather between 32° to 60° F (0°-15.6° C), and with little to no wind. At colder temperatures, the ground is frozen, making it difficult to incorporate the urea into the soil. At higher temperatures, and in windy conditions, the urea is broken down faster than it can soak into the soil. Use a urea fertilizer with a urease inhibitor before planting. Urease is the enzyme that begins the chemical reaction that turns urea into the nitrates plants need. Applying urea fertilizers before planting leads to high amounts of the urea being lost before it can benefit your plants. Using a fertilizer with a urease inhibitor can slow the chemical reaction, and helps retain urea in the soil. Spread the urea evenly across the soil. Urea is packaged and sold as small, solid pellets or granules. Broadcast the urea with a fertilizer spreader or sprinkle the pellets by hand evenly across your soil. For most plants, you will want to keep the urea close to the plant's roots, or close to where you will plant the seeds. Wet the soil. Before urea is turned into the nitrates your plants need, it first becomes ammonia gas. Because gases can easily escape from the surface of the soil, applying fertilizer when the ground is wet will help to incorporate the urea into the soil before the chemical reaction begins. This way, more of the ammonia is trapped within the soil. The top half inch (1.3 cm) of soil should be wet to keep as much ammonia gas in the soil as possible. You can water the soil yourself, apply the urea before it rains, or apply within 48 hours after the snow on your fields has completely melted. Till the soil to incorporate the urea. Tilling your fields or garden is a great way to incorporate the urea fertilizer into the soil before any of the ammonia gas can be lost. Harrow, drag, or hoe the field in order to incorporate the urea into the top layer of the soil. Control the amount of nitrogen you give to potato plants. Certain varieties of potatoes can handle high levels of nitrogen, while others cannot. Be cautious and treat all potatoes the same way. Avoid giving potato plants large quantities of nitrogen with your urea fertilizer. Urea fertilizers can be applied directly onto potato plants, or in a solution with other fertilizers, as long as the solution is made up of 30% nitrogen or less. Solutions of urea fertilizer that are more than 30% nitrogen should only be applied to fields before potatoes are planted. Fertilize grains with urea on a mild day. Urea can be applied directly onto most cereal grains, but never in temperatures above 60° F (15.6° C). When applied in warmer temperatures, the plants will give off an odor of ammonia. Apply urea to corn seeds indirectly. Only apply urea to corn indirectly, by spreading the urea onto soil at least 2 inches (5 cm) away from the corn seeds. Direct exposure to urea is toxic to the seeds, and greatly reduces the corn plant's yield. Determine your ideal fertilizer ratio. Fertilizer ratios, also called N-P-K numbers, are a series of 3 numbers that tell you how much of a fertilizer mixture, by weight, is made up of fertilizers rich in nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. If you have a sample of your soil studied, you will be provided with an ideal fertilizer ratio that will help make up for your soil's nutrient deficiencies. Most hobbyist gardeners can find premixed fertilizers that will suit their needs at a plant nursery or garden supply center. Combine urea with additional fertilizers to create a stable fertilizer mixture. Urea provides plants with nitrogen, but other elements, like phosphorus and potassium, are important for plant health as well. Fertilizers that you can safely mix and store with urea include: Calcium cyanamide Sulphate of potash Sulphate of potash magnesium Mix urea with certain fertilizers to fertilize plants immediately. There are certain fertilizers that can be mixed with urea, but lose their effectiveness after 2-3 days because of the reactions that occur between the fertilizer's chemicals. These include: Chilean nitrate Sulphate of ammonia Nitrogen magneseia Diamonnium phosphate Basic slag Rock phosphate Muriate of potash Prevent unwanted chemical reactions from harming your crops. Some fertilizers will react with urea to either create a volatile chemical reaction, or to render the fertilizer mixture completely useless. Never combine urea with the following fertilizers: Calcium nitrate Calium ammonium nitrate Limestone ammonium nitrate Ammonium sulphate nitrate Nitropotash Potash ammonium nitrate Superphosphate Triple superphosphate Blend urea with phosphorus and potassium-rich fertilizers for a well-balanced fertilizer. Referencing the list of fertilizers that are and are not effective to mix with urea, choose sources of phosphorus and potassium to add to your fertilizer mix. Many of these are available at nurseries and garden supply stores. Add each of your chosen fertilizers together, according to the weights given by your fertilizer ratio. Mix them together thoroughly. This can be done in a large bucket, in a wheelbarrow, or with mechanical mixers. Spread your urea-based fertilizer evenly across your crops. Apply your fertilizer mixture as you would apply urea on its own, spreading it evenly across the soil. Then water and till the soil in order to incorporate the fertilizer. Urea is less dense than other fertilizers. If you are using spinning-type equipment to spread your urea-based fertilizer over large distances on your farm, keep your spread width below 50 feet (15.2 m) to spread the fertilizer mixture equally. | Minimize ammonia loss by applying urea on a cool day. Use a urea fertilizer with a urease inhibitor before planting. Spread the urea evenly across the soil. Wet the soil. Till the soil to incorporate the urea. Control the amount of nitrogen you give to potato plants. Fertilize grains with urea on a mild day. Apply urea to corn seeds indirectly. Determine your ideal fertilizer ratio. Combine urea with additional fertilizers to create a stable fertilizer mixture. Mix urea with certain fertilizers to fertilize plants immediately. Prevent unwanted chemical reactions from harming your crops. Blend urea with phosphorus and potassium-rich fertilizers for a well-balanced fertilizer. Spread your urea-based fertilizer evenly across your crops. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Give-Cat-Milk-to-Your-Cat | How to Give Cat Milk to Your Cat | If you want to give milk to your cat, choose specially formulated cat milk that is lactose-free and enriched with taurine. This will prevent digestive issues and give your cat essential nutrients. To serve the milk to your cat, pour it into a small bowl or saucer, then throw away any milk that the cat doesn't drink within 45 minutes to prevent spoilage. If you're concerned about the extra calories from the milk, consider cutting back on some of your cat's other foods. Finally, consult your vet if the cat has bad reactions to the milk, like vomiting or diarrhea. | Use specially formulated milk. Specially formulated cat milks are lactose-free. Choose a cat milk that is enriched with taurine—an essential amino acid that is required for heart and eye health. You can find specially formulated milks at your local pet store, or ask your veterinarian. Because the majority of adult cats are lactose intolerant, do not give your cat cow's milk. You may give your cat organic, lactose-free "people" milk as well. However, start with a small dose, like a teaspoon, to make sure there are not any negative side effects first. Do not feed your cat soy milk. Pour the milk onto a saucer. Administer the milk per the instructions on the bottle. Because cat milk does not keep for long, make sure to discard any remaining milk after 45 minutes. This way you can prevent your cat from eating spoiled milk. Remember that cat milk contains calories. You will need to balance the amount of cat milk your cat eats with its other foods, such as wet food or kibble. Adding cat milk to your cat's diet without considering the overall amount of calories that your cat is consuming could cause your cat to become overweight. If your cat is overweight, you will need to cut back on its other foods to offset the calories added by the cat milk. Consult your veterinarian. If your cat experiences diarrhea, vomiting, and/or bloating after drinking the milk, then refrain from giving it more milk. Make sure to take your cat to the vet if it experiences any of these symptoms. Give the milk as a reward. If you want to reward your cat, cat milk is considered a healthy alternative to treats. Give your cat a teaspoon of cat milk as a reward. Make sure to count the milk as a part of its daily food intake to avoid overfeeding your cat. Mix it with solid food. Mixing your cat's dry food with cat milk can entice your cat to eat its dry food. Mix a teaspoon of cat milk with your cat's dry food to encourage your cat to eat. Wean your kitten with cat milk. Adult female cats begin to wean their kittens around seven to eight weeks of age. If your adult cat is having trouble weaning its kitten, then feed the kitten specially formulated cat milk to encourage the weaning process. Mix the formula. Mix the formula per the instructions on the packaging. Make sure to follow the directions closely. Pour the mixture into a bottle specifically designed for kittens. You can purchase powdered formulas, as well as a bottle and teat set, from your local pet store or veterinarian. Always make the formula fresh. Warm the bottle. Fill a pot with one to two cups of water. Place the bottle in the pot, and then place the pot on the stove. Set the heat to medium. Remove the bottle once it feels warm, i.e., five to eight minutes. Before feeding your kitten, test the temperature of the milk by squeezing a few drops onto your inner wrist. The temperature of the milk should be body temperature or slightly above room temperature. If it is too hot, then let it cool down. Place the kitten on a towel on your lap. Make sure the kitten is lying flat on its stomach. Entice your kitten to suckle by turning the bottle upside down. This will enable a drop of formula to come out so the kitten can smell it. Never feed a kitten on its back. Make sure your kitten is warm before feeding it, i.e., 96 to 100 degrees Fahrenheit. If not, then warm your kitten with a heating pad before feeding it. Hold the bottle at a 45-degree angle. Place the bottle's nipple into your kitten's mouth. Gently move the nipple back and forth in your kitten's mouth to encourage it to eat. Once your kitten latches on, let it eat at its own pace. Try not to fill your kitten's mouth with milk. This may cause your kitten to breathe in the milk, which can cause pneumonia. Feed your kitten every two to three hours. In general, kittens should eat eight milliliters of formula per ounce of body weight each day. Divide the amount of formula by the number of feedings to determine how much formula to feed your kitten at each feeding. For example, a kitten that weighs five ounces should be given 40 milliliters of formula per day. Divide 40 by 7 (number of feedings if you are feeding your kitten every three hours) to get a total of 5.7 milliliters of formula for each feeding. Stimulate the kitten to poop and pee. If the mother is not caring for the bottle fed kitten, then the kitten cannot relieve itself. Kittens do not poop and pee on their own. Instead, the mother stimulates them by licking their rear. To mimic this action, you should use a damp wool cloth to wipe the kitten's rear under its tail until it relieves itself. Once the kitten starts pooping and peeing on its own, you can stop wiping its rear. This should happen at about 3 to 4 weeks of age. | Use specially formulated milk. Pour the milk onto a saucer. Remember that cat milk contains calories. Consult your veterinarian. Give the milk as a reward. Mix it with solid food. Wean your kitten with cat milk. Mix the formula. Warm the bottle. Place the kitten on a towel on your lap. Hold the bottle at a 45-degree angle. Feed your kitten every two to three hours. Stimulate the kitten to poop and pee. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Prevent-Heartworm-Disease-in-Cats | How to Prevent Heartworm Disease in Cats | The best way to prevent heartworm disease is to give your cat a once-a-month preventative medicine, which can be prescribed by your vet. Additionally, you should place screens on windows to prevent mosquitoes from entering your house and transferring the disease to your cat. If you think your cat may already have heartworm disease, watch for symptoms like coughing, vomiting, and diarrhea. If your cat has any of these issues, you should take it to the vet for a diagnosis. | Give your cat preventative medication. Like most diseases, prevention is the safest and most cost effective measure. Cats can be given once a month preventative medication that kills the heartworms. These preventative medications are available from your veterinarian in the form of a prescription. In year round warm weather regions, your cat should be given this medication year round. For cats that live in areas with long cold winters, the medication should be given once a month during the mosquito season. Your veterinarian can help you figure out when these months are. Prevent mosquitoes from breeding in your yard. Preventing mosquitoes from gathering in your yard and sneaking into your house is also a great preventative measure. Dump out, cover, or drill holes into any container, planter saucer, tarps, kids toys, wheelbarrows, old tires, or anything else capable of holding more than ¼ inch of water. Items that hold water can turn into mosquito breeding grounds. You should also fill in any spots on your property where water puddles. Dump out bird baths with standing water at least once a week. Keep gutters cleaned out so water flows from them freely after rains. Provide preventative care for indoor cats. While outdoor cats are at a higher risk to get heartworms, indoor cats can also get heartworms. Mosquitoes transfer the heartworms, and indoor cats are also exposed to mosquitos. Make sure to give your indoor cat preventative heartworm medicine. Place screens on windows and doors to help prevent mosquitoes from getting into your home. Watch for respiratory distress. One symptom of heartworm disease in cats is respiratory problems. This may present in your cat as coughing or hacking. Your cat may also have difficulty breathing.The difficulty breathing may be heavy, raspy, or abnormally fast breathing. In severe cases, your cat may have acute respiratory failure due to clots. Respiratory problems in cats due to heartworm disease is frequently misdiagnosed as feline asthma or bronchitis. This is the signs of HARD. HARD is caused when the heartworm larva end up in the lung arteries where they may die and cause inflammation of the artery walls. Check for digestive issues. Sometimes, your cat may have digestive issues if he has heartworms. Your cat may start vomiting or have diarrhea. He may also start to lose a lot of weight and display signs of lethargy. Since these are non-specific signs that can point to many illnesses, you should take your cat to the vet for a specific diagnosis. Be aware that many heartworm complications cannot be observed. The main two symptoms for heartworm disease in cats are respiratory and digestive problems. Other complications caused by the worms can only be detected by your vet. Your cat may have tachycardia or a heart murmur. Your cat may also have signs of anemia or other blood-related issues. Your vet may be able to find evidence of dead or broken pieces of worms in your cat's lungs, intestines, heart, brain, or spine, which leads to various internal problems. Cats can die suddenly because of heartworm infections. Since sometimes a cat doesn't present symptoms for heartworms, your cat may die without any other symptoms. This is why it's important to get your cat screened for heartworms and try to prevent them. Take your cat to the vet. If your cat shows any signs of respiratory or digestive problems, you should take him to the vet immediately. These signs are common signs for many different illnesses. Your vet can do an exam to determine the root cause for the symptoms. Even if your cat does not show any signs, you should take him to the vet for checkups where your vet checks him for heartworms. Diagnose the symptoms. During a physical exam of the cat, the vet may notice heart problems, such as an arrhythmia or a heart murmur. Otherwise, the vet may notice a non-specific respiratory problem, or the examination may be normal. Tests for heartworm antigen or antibodies toward heartworm can be done on blood. X-rays or ultrasounds of the chest may show enlarged arteries, lung changes, or an enlarged heart, all of which could indicate heartworm infection. Treat the heartworm infection. Unlike dogs, there is no specific treatment for cats with heartworms. An injection of a harsh medication can be given to the cat, but is very risky and unsafe for cats. A surgical procedure to remove the adult worms from the heart can be undertaken by trained veterinarians, but this also is risky and can result in death. The most common treatment is to treat the symptoms, especially if your cat has HARD. Sometimes a spontaneous death of the worms occurs within two to three years so no treatment may be necessary other than treatment of any symptoms. | Give your cat preventative medication. Prevent mosquitoes from breeding in your yard. Provide preventative care for indoor cats. Watch for respiratory distress. Check for digestive issues. Be aware that many heartworm complications cannot be observed. Take your cat to the vet. Diagnose the symptoms. Treat the heartworm infection. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Make-a-Rose-out-of-a-Cloth-Napkin | How to Make a Rose out of a Cloth Napkin | The easiest way to make a rose out of a napkin is to fold the napkin in half diagonally, then roll the folded side up halfway and flip the napkin over. Fold one “tail” into the other side and repeat with the other tail. Roll the napkin until it reaches the other side, and tuck in any extra cloth that's sticking out. Pull apart the two flaps inside the rolled up napkin and turn it over to appreciate your creation! | Lay the napkin flat in front of you. Always use a cloth napkin rather than a paper one as the larger the napkin, the easier it is to fold. Your napkin should be square-shaped in order to create your rose. Fold the napkin in half diagonally. The end result will look like a triangle. Roll the napkin. With the longest side near you, roll the triangle up until it reaches halfway. Although this part is a little tricky, you will soon get the hang of it. Turn the napkin over. Flip the napkin so that you can't see the rolls. The longest side should be nearest to you. At this stage, the napkin looks like a triangle with two tails. Roll up the tail edge. Take the end of one tail and roll until it reaches the end of the other tail. When you're done rolling, tuck the free end of your napkin into the small pocket created at the bottom. The napkin will look like a torch or a candle. Shape the two inside flaps. Inside your creation, there should be two flaps: pull one to the left and the other to the right. It's easy to mess this step up, so do it carefully. Turn the napkin over. It is now crafted into the shape of a rose. Continue this process with the remaining napkins until all are completed. Display your creation on a table. If you are throwing a dinner party, you will impress guests with your imaginative napkin displays. Place the silverware to either side of the napkin roses. Allow your napkins to be the centerpiece. For the most practical and classy of centerpieces, display enough napkins folded into roses so that everyone can grab one when their food arrives. | Lay the napkin flat in front of you. Fold the napkin in half diagonally. Roll the napkin. Turn the napkin over. Roll up the tail edge. Shape the two inside flaps. Turn the napkin over. Display your creation on a table. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Be-a-Hermit | How to Be a Hermit | Being a hermit is about living a life of solitude, but it's also about being resourceful and fending for yourself. If you think you're ready to try the hermit lifestyle, you'll need to stock up on basic supplies then disconnect from social media, and ultimately, the outside world. It's easiest to start with small steps when you become a hermit, so try gradually limiting your time with friends and spending more time by yourself. You could use this time to work on your hobbies or to focus on your spirituality or work. You'll also want to deactivate your social media accounts, and possibly even get rid of your cell phone. To be a hermit long-term, consider getting a studio apartment where you can live on your own. You'll also want to stock up on supplies at the grocery store once a month to reduce the amount of time you spend around other people. | Consider why you would like to become a hermit. What are you trying to avoid or establish? If you have no clear goal, then becoming a hermit will merely be a passing phase. Is this a temporary means of rebellion? Is this to avoid a certain someone or people in general? Is this a type of prolonged "time out" for yourself? Do you feel a spiritual calling to hermitism? What are your personal reasons? Is it the appeal of not being with people or is it the simplicity of the lifestyle that draws you? Does it seem like a passing phase or is it something that's been in the back of your mind for years? It is the symptom of a larger issue? Or is it the only possible solution? Determine just how much of a hermit you want to be. Being a hermit doesn't mean you're locked inside your house. Plenty have communication with the outside world or even live with another person. Over half live in urban areas. Knowing that there's a spectrum to being hermitic, where do you fall? In today's world, it's difficult to be entirely self-sustaining. Do you want to build your own house, grow your own food, and rig up your own well system? Or would you rather stay put in your apartment and order Chinese takeout? Both are their own versions of the hermit life. Decide on your home. In the spirit of hermitdom, it is probably best to choose somewhere hidden, small, and modest. Better still if it's environmentally friendly. The more bucolic and out-of-the-way, the better. But if you happen to have a place in the middle of Manhattan, that'll work too (just get sound-proof windows). As for the interior, generally hermits desire simple lives. Some have cable, computers, and are connected, while others spend their hours praying, gardening, and being entirely removed from the outside world. If you are planning on becoming a hermit to rid yourself of the evils and woes of society, you may want to weed through your possessions, removing the clutter from the world around you. Think about how you'll go off the map. Do you want to go cold turkey? Just one day wake up in your bed, take a look at the door, and know you'll never leave the woven entrails of your Berber carpet ever again? Or will you slowly limit yourself, demanding an escalating amount of "me" time as the days pass? Better yet...how will you alert the masses? How do you become a hermit without upsetting your family? Well, in short, you don't. They are not going to be crazy about you refusing to live like "normal" people do. If this is a concern of yours, for starters, alleviate their worries by explaining your situation and your rationale. Hopefully they'll get it. And, if you'd like, tell them you'll stay in contact. Just because you're a hermit doesn't mean they'll never see you again. Consider your mental health. If you never want to see humans ever again (which isn't how most hermits work), you may have a type of avoidant personality disorder, PTSD (post traumatic stress disorder) or another undiagnosed mental illness. These two, for example, can make you feel a strong desire to avoid people (so can SAD (Social Anxiety Disorder), but to a lesser extent). Is this at all possible? Visit a therapist if you are considering cutting off communication entirely. It will make friends and family breathe easier, and you owe it to yourself to make certain that you are not self medicating a mental illness. Get the funds ready. Unless you work from home and somehow manage to have a job that doesn't provide you with some extreme cognitive dissonance in regards to your lifestyle, you probably won't have a significant, constant flow of income. And you will most likely still need money to survive! It'll be significantly less money you'll need, but you'll still need some. Where will it come from? You still exist. You may have to pay taxes and your student loans won't just go away. You also need food, electricity (probably?), water (definitely), and whatever bare minimum essentials you require. You could try growing a garden with just your bare hands and a blessing from the rain, but it'll be a challenge! Stock up on items you need. Since you're staying put for, well, ever, stock up on whatever it is you need. Then, ideally, you can make a trip once a month for eggs and bread or your yearly dalliance with the local grocery store for powdered milk, spices, etc. Supermarkets can now deliver to your home, but that's just work you'd rather avoid. Think of what you'd take with you if you had to go on a month-long vacation to a third world country. Razors? Shampoo? Deodorant? Toothpaste? Books? Batteries? Granola bars? The idea here is to stock up so heartily that all your needs are met within your humble abode. Disconnect. Alright, it's the moment you've been waiting for. Deactivate your Facebook account, give a 140-character goodbye to your Twitter, spend 5 final seconds snapchatting, turn in your cell phone, run over your laptop with your lawnmower, and enjoy. Done. You are now nothing but a memory on the face of the Internet. Congratulations. Alright, so you can have a phone. You'll need it to order pizza, anyway. And you can have cable and Internet if you'd like, but you won't really reap the spiritual benefits of being a hermit if you stay connected. So, no, the hermit community won't shun you (there's a thought), but you won't be living up to your reclusive potential. Make your environment sustainable. Since you're largely depending on you and you alone, be sure to have everything you need at the ready. Go plant a garden! Build an outhouse! Invest in a bicycle! Get a stock of oil lamps! If it lasts, it's good. Again, this part is up to you. But the more sustainable your environment, the more you can relish in your hermitry. Years will pass and you won't even know it. What do you need to create the life you want to live? Develop skills. You know all that time you'll have on your hands contemplating life and your existence? You'll need to kill it! So pick up a paintbrush now (that you fashioned out of a twig and your own hair) and start painting. Learn how to use a Bo Staff. Get the conversational basics of a foreign language down. Journal. Study the plants in your backyard. Learn how to garden. How to sew. The list is practically infinite. If nothing else, get the skills down that will make your hermitry easier. This means sewing, cooking, gardening, killing spiders, being handy around the house, etc. Being a hermit is a lot easier when living independently isn't an issue. You can do laundry, right? Like yourself. You know why? Because you're literally the only one you'll be around 23.99/7. Don't like yourself and that's pretty terrible company. Terrible company that never goes away. It is possible to drive yourself crazy, which is an ending situation you most likely want to avoid. Don't like yourself and that could happen. Being a hermit, for most, is not a three-month ordeal. It is a life choice that offers much happiness. It's usually done in the second half of life, but it can be done by anyone at any time. So before you go about isolating yourself from everyone but you, make sure you have "you" on your side. Get a hermit helper. It's like a personal assistant, but more alliterative. Sometimes you'll need someone to drop off groceries on your doorstep, to help you with the clogged toilet, to bring over emergency rodent killer, or to help you when you've fallen and broken your leg. It's just good sense. Make sure you have a link to the outside world -- you may end up desperately needing it. You don't have to see them if you don't want, but you do have to be able to contact them. Generally speaking, the phone will be the easiest way. If this goes against your principles it's understandable; however, having a phone isn't the same as using it. Have one in case of emergencies. And, yes, it can be a landline. They still have those. Put your time to good use. Now that you're not working, not answering other people's obligations, and not worrying about what your hair looks like, what will you do with your time?! If you're like most hermits, you'll spend a lot of time meditating , praying , and enjoying the simple things in life. About time! You'll probably have more time than you even realize. You'll wake when you want, sleep when you want, and fall into a natural cycle of productivity. Find the time that's best for sleeping, eating, and exercising for you. Now that your schedule is all yours, you've no reason to max out your productivity. Use this to develop all the skills you wish you had time for in your more cookie-cutter past. Juggle! Plant roses! Make bread from scratch! So many wikiHow articles you could be perusing! Dress simply. You're a pretty sad excuse for a hermit if you walk around your house in a pair of Manolo Blahniks all day every day. Technically you're a hermit, but the idea of a hermit lifestyle is to live minimally, to shun extraneous desires and luxury. You don't have to make your own clothes if you don't want to, but do limit your closet to the basics. If Ke$ha can rock garbage chic, you can rock hermit chic. Again with the suitcase metaphor: choose one or two pieces for every possible situation you may find yourself in. That's all you need! When they wear out, well, by then you'll have learned how to sew. Hey, what a nice transition to the next step! Watch out for loneliness. When was the last time you went days without even seeing another human being? Yeah, the world sucks, people are terrible, and the human race has long overstayed its welcome, but that doesn't mean loneliness won't come a-creepin'. When it does come, how will you handle it? Loads of hermits have a very small network of people they're comfortable keeping in contact with. You could, feasibly, have one or two people that can remove the moody blues when they set in. Just have this established going into it! It's a lot harder to make friends once you get set in your hermit ways. Here's another issue: abstinence. You won't be getting your groove on anytime soon. Like, ever. You cool with that? Connect with other hermits. Crazy, huh? But it's a thing. They even have an entire newsletter. Everybody needs someone who understands their trials and tribulations. It's not something you do in person or even on the regular, but reading a pamphlet is certainly a solatium for an otherwise bleak social existence. Having a couple of people on your side doesn't take away your hermit cred. If J.D. Salinger had to cross the bridge into town to get his mail, so can you. People are a necessity of life. Like a diet -- if you go cold turkey, you'll fail. Allow yourself a taste (in the non-cannibalistic sense, that is). Know the world may offer you a reputation. When the local children start peering into your house, leaving you gifts in the knotholes of trees, rest assured the locals have started talking. Word's going to get out that there's a hermit inhabiting your residence and, lo and behold, it's you. This doesn't have to affect you if you don't let it, but if you ever wish to revisit the world, it will be a challenge. You up for it? If you wish to become gainfully employed or even make friends, there may be a legitimate amount of rejection waiting for you. Hermits just aren't "got" in the world today. Why would someone want to abandon the comforts of modern living?! "Once you leave home, you can never go back," is a phrase to keep in mind here. Is it worth it? Maybe. | Consider why you would like to become a hermit. Determine just how much of a hermit you want to be. Decide on your home. Think about how you'll go off the map. Consider your mental health. Get the funds ready. Stock up on items you need. Disconnect. Make your environment sustainable. Develop skills. Like yourself. Get a hermit helper. Put your time to good use. Dress simply. Watch out for loneliness. Connect with other hermits. Know the world may offer you a reputation. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Clean-Clear-Plastic | How to Clean Clear Plastic | Clear plastic can be hard to keep clean, since it has a tendency to get cloudy or yellowed. For a gentle clean, wipe down the object with a soft cloth dipped in warm, soapy water. For more stubborn stains, use a cleaner with a little grit, like plain white toothpaste or baking soda mixed with vinegar. Gently scrub the surface in a circular motion to scrape away the damaged plastic. To prevent future damage caused by the sun, spray the object with a clear coat UV protectant. | Surface-clean the item with a gentle soap and a soft cloth. The first step to cleaning any clear plastic item is wiping away dust, dirt, grime, oils, etc. from the surface. Opt for non-abrasive materials so that you don't scratch the plastic surface. Add a small amount of a gentle detergent, such as dish soap, to clean, warm water. Use a clean microfiber cloth or soft cotton rag (like an old t-shirt). Paper towels are too abrasive. Wet the cloth thoroughly with the soapy water, and gently scrub the surface with a circular cleaning motion. Rinse the residue away with clean, cool water and dry the plastic with another clean cloth. Try spray cleaners for surface cleaning as well. Commercial window or multi-surface cleaners can also be used to wipe away surface debris from clear plastic. In some cases, though, they may add further cloudiness and streaks by leaving a film behind. If you're cleaning a clear plastic windscreen, for instance, test an small area first to evaluate the results. Use a non-abrasive cloth like microfiber or soft cotton. You can also make your own multi-purpose cleaner by combining clean water and white vinegar (at a 1:1 ratio) in a spray bottle. Add some grit for a deeper clean. Surface cleaning alone will probably not restore the clarity of your plastic item or reduce yellowing. In this case, instead of avoiding abrasion, you may want to use a mild abrasive to scrape away the surface damage done by UV rays and wear and tear. Some people find that plain white toothpaste works well; others prefer mixing baking soda with vinegar to make a foamy cleaner with some grit. Or, try mixing baking soda and oil soap (such as Murphy's Oil Soap) into a thick paste equal or slightly thicker in consistency than toothpaste. Apply your mild abrasive to the clear plastic. In this case, a microfiber or cotton cloth is still fine to use, but you can also enhance the abrasion a bit further by using a woven scouring pad (not steel wool) meant for non-stick or coated cooking pans. Clean and rinse the surface first. Use a circular cleaning motion with relatively mild pressure. Think more “exfoliating your skin” and less “sanding down a piece of wood.” Rinse the cleaner away with clean, cool water. Dry the plastic with a clean, soft cloth (with no abrasion this time). Consider applying a UV clear-coat spray or commercial protective wax. Scrubbing away the surface cloudiness of your item may, unfortunately, leave it more vulnerable to UV damage in the future. Depending upon the importance and function of the plastic item — such as a car headlamp cover or boat windscreen, for instance — you may want to add surface protection to slow down the deterioration process. UV protectants for plastics come in clear-coat sprays and wipe-on waxes. Consider which application and process is best suited to your needs, and follow the product instructions explicitly. Use dampened sandpaper on wetted-down clear plastic. Wet-sanding uses decreasing levels of abrasion to scrub away and buff smooth a clouded plastic surface. There are many variations of this method when it comes to cleaning car headlamp covers , since oxidation can cause clouding that may reduce the effective brightness of your headlights. Clean the surface of the plastic item first with a gentle soap, soft cloth, and clean water. Protect any surrounding surfaces (e.g., car paint or chrome around your headlamp covers) with thick layers of painter's tape, or even taped-down plastic sheeting. Scrub in a circular motion with progressively finer grades of sandpaper. Soak the sandpaper in clean water, or spray it down while working. Keep the plastic damp as well. Use firm and even, but not excessive, pressure. Rinse and check the surface for even abrasion when switching sandpaper grades. For a more aggressive application on, for instance, a car headlamp cover, you could use 400, 600, and 2000-grit sandpaper. To exert greater caution with your headlamp covers (or with something like a boat windscreen), try using 1000, 1500, 2000, 2500, and finally 3000-grit sandpaper. Apply an abrasive polishing compound to smooth out the plastic. After thoroughly rinsing the item and drying it with a soft, lint-free cloth, apply a commercial polishing compound to fine-tune the abrasion process. Follow the instructions provided with the product, but expect to go very slowly so that you can methodically work the compound over the plastic item. Look for abrasive polishing compounds for plastics at auto parts or marine retailers. If your plastic item doesn't require this level of care, you can opt to simply wipe rubbing alcohol over the rinsed plastic in order to remove any lingering dust, oils, or residue. Apply a UV protective coating to slow down subsequent clouding. Unfortunately, once you've done all this work to make your plastic crystal clear, the yellowing and clouding process will begin again immediately. If you want to add some more time before you have to wet-sand the plastic item again, consider applying UV protection to hinder the impact of ultraviolet light. For automobile headlamp covers, for instance, you could apply a paste wax intended to provide UV protection. Or, you could use a UV protectant clear-coat spray. If so, work slowly (according to the product instructions) and be sure to fully cover any areas (car paint, etc.) that you don't want the clear-coat to get on. Wash, rinse, and dry the plastic item. Use a gentle soap, clean water, and a microfiber or other lint-free, non-abrasive cloth. Make sure the plastic item is dry before proceeding. Check your manufacturer’s recommendations before using a specific commercial cleaner. Especially if you are dealing with pricey clear plastic components (such as on a boat), do your homework before choosing and using a clear plastic cleaner/restorer. Some plastic manufacturers recommend only certain brands, and using others may void any warranty or even cause irreparable damage. Consult the manufacturer's recommendations before trying any do-it-yourself methods as well. Apply a commercial clear plastic restorer and cleaner. This type of product is often used on windscreens and other clear plastic components of boats, so see what options are available at marine product retailers. Follow the product's instructions for use; typically, however, you will use an included foam applicator and buff with a series of clean microfiber cloths. Mist on and wipe away a commercial clear window wax. Once again, follow the instructions for the specific product. Typically, though, you will apply a light, even spray of the product on the plastic item, then wipe it away in a circular motion with a clean, soft, lint-free cloth. This type of product will help provide more lasting UV protection, thereby delaying future clouding or yellowing. | Surface-clean the item with a gentle soap and a soft cloth. Try spray cleaners for surface cleaning as well. Add some grit for a deeper clean. Apply your mild abrasive to the clear plastic. Consider applying a UV clear-coat spray or commercial protective wax. Use dampened sandpaper on wetted-down clear plastic. Scrub in a circular motion with progressively finer grades of sandpaper. Apply an abrasive polishing compound to smooth out the plastic. Apply a UV protective coating to slow down subsequent clouding. Wash, rinse, and dry the plastic item. Check your manufacturer’s recommendations before using a specific commercial cleaner. Apply a commercial clear plastic restorer and cleaner. Mist on and wipe away a commercial clear window wax. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Develop-a-Mentoring-Plan | How to Develop a Mentoring Plan | A mentoring plan can help guide the relationship between a mentor and a mentee. When you first start working together, take time to discuss your basic goals and figure out what each person's responsibilities will be. For example, if you're a mentor you might write “I agree to give support and encouragement to my mentee, provide feedback, and meet regularly.” Some other goals that the mentor might help the mentee achieve include learning company roles and achieving competency, improving motivation and job satisfaction, or increasing the chances of staying with the company long-term. Or, if you're the mentee, you might say “I am responsible for seeking opportunities and experiences that will enhance my learning.” Based on your goals and responsibilities, decide how often you'll meet, where you'll meet, and how formal your meetings will be. | Take time to get to know each other before you begin working together. It's fine to have the first meeting between you and your mentor or mentee be all about getting to know each other and this may even help to forge a positive relationship. Choose to meet at a designated time and place. Then, spend about 30-60 minutes in casual conversation. Ask getting-to-know you questions of each other to establish a rapport. For example, ask your mentor or mentee where they're from, where they went to school, what they like to do in their spare time, and if they have any pets. Discuss desired outcomes for the relationship. When you first begin working together, plan a conversation to establish the basic goals you'll be working towards. These can be broad goals that you narrow down later to pinpoint the mentee's more specific professional objectives. Some things the mentor and mentee might list as goals for their relationship include: Increasing the speed at which the mentee learns their role and achieves competency Fostering leadership development Reducing stress and preventing burnout Improving the mentee's motivation and job satisfaction Increasing the chances that the mentee will stay with the company long-term Identify each person’s responsibilities. Once you've established some goals, figure out what the relationship will involve by specifying what you and your mentor or mentee will responsible for doing. State these responsibilities clearly so there is no mistaking each person's role. For example, if you are the mentee, you might write something like, “As mentee, I am responsible for seeking out opportunities and experiences to enhance my learning, communicating regularly with my mentor, and reviewing my progress regularly.” If you are the mentor, you might write something like, “As mentor, I agree to provide support and encouragement to my mentee, provide feedback on my mentee's progress, and meet with them regularly.” Specify how often you and your mentor or mentee will meet. Try to meet with your mentor or mentee 3-4 times over the course of 6 months, or more often if desired. Meeting more often may help to promote good progress, especially in the first 1-2 years of your relationship. Other things to consider when planning your meetings include: Where you will meet The level of formality of your meetings What you'll cover in your meetings When you will meet again Write down the mentee’s long-term career goals. Identifying the mentee's ultimate or major career goal will help you to create clear objectives to work on. If you're the mentee, discuss your career goals with your mentor and then state your career goal as a main objective of the mentorship plan. If you're the mentor, discuss the mentee's career goals with them to help them develop their ideas and then help them to turn this into a definitive statement. For example, you might write something like, “My ultimate goal is to become a tenured professor and move into an administrative role, such as dean or vice president.” Express short-term goals for the next 5-10 years of the mentee’s career. These may include things that the mentee would like to accomplish within the next 1, 2, 3, 5, or even 10 years. List each short-term goal and the proposed timeline for achieving it. For example, you might write something like, “Earn a promotion within my first year of employment.” Or, you might write something like, “Publish a book based on my research within 5 years.” Make a list of skills the mentee wants to work on. Have a discussion about what skills are important for the mentee's success in their chosen field. Then, make a list of these skills and identify ways that the mentee can work on them. For example, if the mentee wants to develop their leadership skills, they might do this by volunteering for special projects or committees, speaking up more in meetings, and reading books about leadership. If you are the mentor, you may also want to suggest some skills that you think might be beneficial for the mentee's career goals. Identify professional development events for the mentee to attend. Include in the plan any workshops, conferences, or other professional development events that may benefit the mentee. Also, indicate when the events are being held and any important deadlines the mentee should know about, such as a submission deadline for a conference paper. For example, you might include in the mentorship plan something like, “Submit a proposal for the annual writer's conference by January 15th.” Plan introductions to contacts that may benefit the mentee. If you are the mentor and are at a meeting or event that your mentee is attending as well, introduce them to other professionals. Expanding the mentee's professional social circle is an important goal for furthering their professional development and helping them to achieve their goals. Try saying something like, “Hello, Dr. Carlson! Have you met George? He's our newest addition to human resources.” The mentor may also benefit from introducing the mentee to people within their professional circle by renewing and strengthening their professional connections. Evaluate the mentee biannually to check on their progress. Regular progress reviews will help to ensure that you're making good progress, so set a schedule for these checks. If you're the mentor, evaluate your mentee once every 6 months. If you're the mentee, suggest an evaluation every 6 months by discussing it with your mentor and including it in your plan. During 6 month reviews, have the mentor and mentee revisit the mentorship plan, goals, and objectives to see what the mentee has accomplished or what they are working towards. For example, if the mentee set a goal to publish a paper by the end of the year, then by the first 6 month review there should be some tangible evidence that the mentee is moving towards that goal, such as having a paper accepted by a scholarly journal or at least having submitted a paper to a journal by that point. If you're the mentor, make sure to provide encouragement and feedback on the mentee's progress. You can do this by making notes on what they have accomplished and putting these notes into the form of a letter. If you're the mentee, identify any goals that you have not made progress towards and ask for guidance from your mentor, especially if you are struggling with any of your objectives. Make adjustments to the mentorship plan and goals as needed. After reviewing the mentorship plan together, you and your mentor or mentee can make adjustments to the plan as needed, such as changing goal completion dates, modifying goals, or adding new goals. Use the notes that the mentor made during review and any concerns the mentee stated to adjust the plan. For example, if the mentee set a goal to attend 3 professional development workshops within the next year, but they have only found 2 suitable ones, then you might adjust the goal and consider it met. Or, if the mentee has already accomplished one of their 2 year goals at the 1 year checkup, then you might set a new goal for them to work towards. Review the plan together and have both parties sign it. Once you and your mentor are happy with the new or revised plan, you can both sign it to make it official. Ensure that you both agree to the goals and other objectives set forth in the plan and make any changes needed before you sign it. | Take time to get to know each other before you begin working together. Discuss desired outcomes for the relationship. Identify each person’s responsibilities. Specify how often you and your mentor or mentee will meet. Write down the mentee’s long-term career goals. Express short-term goals for the next 5-10 years of the mentee’s career. Make a list of skills the mentee wants to work on. Identify professional development events for the mentee to attend. Plan introductions to contacts that may benefit the mentee. Evaluate the mentee biannually to check on their progress. Make adjustments to the mentorship plan and goals as needed. Review the plan together and have both parties sign it. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Get-Your-Dog-to-Stop-Growling-at-You-when-Eating | How to Get Your Dog to Stop Growling at You when Eating | The best way to get your dog to stop growling when eating is to desensitize it to your presence. To do this, start by walking past its bowl when it's eating and tossing a treat on the floor near it. After you've done this during a few of its meals, try approaching your dog slowly and tossing a treat into its bowl. Once your dog is used to you coming near it while eating, pick up its bowl to interrupt it eating, drop some treats into it, and return the bowl to the ground, to positively reinforce its good behavior. | Walk past your dog while it is eating. Desensitization is a method used to make your dog more comfortable with having you around its food and bowl while it is eating. Begin by walking past your dog (not too close) and tossing a treat towards the dog's bowl. You do not need to throw the food directly into the bowl, but it should land in the general vicinity of the bowl. Always use a treat that is more appealing than the food your dog is eating. For example, a piece of cheese, cooked hot dog, chicken, or beef. Do this multiple times throughout the feeding and over the next few meals, until your dog becomes comfortable with you walking around. Walk close enough to the dog that it reacts but far enough away that you aren't in any danger. You need to show your dog that you are not a threat to its dinner. Approach your dog while it is eating. Now that your dog is comfortable with you walking past while it is eating, try taking a step towards the dog. Stand a few feet away from your dog and using a light tone say something like “are you enjoying your meal?” Then, take a step toward the dog, toss a treat towards its bowl, and then immediately take a step back. Continue to do this a few times throughout the meal. Practice this over a few meals, and each day try and get closer to the dog's bowl. Once you can comfortably stand within 2 feet (0.61 m) (½ a meter) of your dog's bowl then you can move on to the next step. Don't back down, even when your dog is growling. If you do leave, it teaches the dog that it can get its way by growling at you. Stand over the dog and drop a treat in its bowl. Try standing directly over top of your dog's bowl while it is eating and drop a treat into the bowl. Once you have dropped the treat into the bowl, turn around and walk away. You are slowly getting your dog more comfortable with you around during mealtime. Your dog is also learning that you provide a positive treat. Talk softly to your dog as you approach the bowl. Stand as close as you comfortably can to the dog's bowl. If he growls, withhold the treat. If he lets you stand there, provide a high value reward, such as your dog's favorite meat. Pick up the bowl and add treats. The final step in the desensitization method, is to pick up the bowl while your dog is eating, add treats, and then return the bowl to your dog. This works best if the dog sees you add the treats. Only raise the bowl a few inches to begin with. As the dog gets more comfortable, you can raise the bowl higher. All of these steps will need to be repeated with each adult member of your household. This will help your dog get comfortable with each of you individually. The ultimate goal is to train your dog to allow anyone to pick up its food bowl and put it back down. Keep any children (under 18 years of age) away from an aggressive dog while it is eating. Seek professional help. If your dog is extremely aggressive and you are afraid it might bite you, then you should contact a professional. Do not attempt to train an aggressive dog that may snap, bite, or chase you away from its food. Contact a Certified Applied Animal Behavioural Specialist. If there are no behavioural specialists in your area, you can also use a Certified Professional Dog Trainer. Start by contacting a college of veterinary medicine, if you have any in your area. They will have the best behaviorists available. Ask the dog trainer if they have any experience treating aggressive dogs. Find someone who has worked with dog aggression in the past. Choose a release command. Sometimes dogs can become aggressive when guarding a stolen food item. For example, maybe a piece of food dropped while you were cooking and your dog grabbed it. Teaching your dog a release cue, such as "leave it" or “drop it,” will allow you to retrieve the piece of food from your dog. Teach your dog a release cue. Use a non-valuable yet interesting item, such as a paper towel roll, to teach your dog to release an object on command. Hold onto the item and move it around to entice the dog. Continue to hold onto one end of the item once the dog grabs it. Then using your other hand place your dog's favourite treat under its nose and say “drop it.” The dog will likely let go of the object in order to take the treat. Once the dog has finished the treat give the dog the object again and repeat the command. This demonstrates that when they let go of the object they are rewarded with an even better item (the treat). It also teaches the dog that they can have the object back after taking the treat. Practice the command. Once your dog has learned this command, you should practice it with a variety of different objects. Try using a more valuable item, such as the dog's favourite toy. This will teach your dog to release a prized item on command. Eventually you will be able to get your dog to release food on command. If the toy has a very high value for your dog, you will likely need to use a treat that also has a high value so that your dog will choose it over the toy. Feed your dog at the same time each day. You can also manage signs of food aggression by creating a mealtime routine. In some instances, food-based aggression occurs when a dog is uncertain about when it will get its next meal. Always feed your dog at the same time each day. That way they will become familiar with the routine, reducing their aggressive behaviour. Control the feeding situation. Teach your dog a few basic commands , such as sit and stay. This will allow you to control the feeding situation and can help reduce growling and other aggressive behaviour. For example, give your dog the stay command and have them stand a few feet away from you. Drop their food into the bowl and then, once you are ready say “ok.” Then the dog can approach the food and eat. These commands allow you to be the one in charge of feeding. Try making it increasingly challenging for your dog by changing the “release word” so your dog has to listen carefully for the correct release word. Give your dog plenty of space and food. Food aggression, in many instances, stems from dogs competing for food and resources in the wild. You can reduce this behaviour by giving your dog access to food and plenty of space to eat. For example, allow your dog to eat in their own private space, such as their crate or a separate room. This way they will not feel as though they need to defend or protect their food source. Hand feed your puppy. Hand feeding a puppy is a great way to prevent the development of food aggression. It teaches the dog that people are not threatening and that they provide food. Try hand feeding your dog an entire meal by giving them small pieces of kibble at a time. You can also hand feed your dog treats throughout their training. This will develop trust between you and your puppy. Do not attempt to hand feed an adult dog that already displays signs of food guarding and aggression. Be careful with hand feeding as it can teach your dog obnoxious behaviors such as searching people's hands for food or trying to take food not meant for it. Touch your puppy while it is eating. When you are hand feeding your puppy, use your other hand to pet your dog. This will get them comfortable with you around and they will not get nervous or aggressive in the future. Add treats to your puppy’s bowl while they eat. Slowly approach your puppy's bowl while they are eating and drop a treat into the bowl. Use a treat that is more appealing than the food they are currently eating, such as chicken or beef. This will help the puppy associate people approaching their bowl with a positive treat. | Walk past your dog while it is eating. Approach your dog while it is eating. Stand over the dog and drop a treat in its bowl. Pick up the bowl and add treats. Seek professional help. Choose a release command. Teach your dog a release cue. Practice the command. Feed your dog at the same time each day. Control the feeding situation. Give your dog plenty of space and food. Hand feed your puppy. Touch your puppy while it is eating. Add treats to your puppy’s bowl while they eat. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Darn-a-Sock | How to Darn a Sock | To darn a sock, start by picking thread that's about the same color as your sock, then thread your needle and knot the end of the thread. Be sure to trim away any loose threads or ragged edges around the hole. Then make a running stitch across the hole by pushing your needle through one side of the hole, going under it, and pulling your needle back up through the other side of the hole. Keep making running stitches like that across the hole until your sock is mended. | Choose a thread. You will need to pick a thread that is close to the color and thickness of the existing sock yarn. You can also use a dark color for horizontal stitching and a lighter color for vertical stitching. If you have a dark sock, using white thread will help you to see what you're doing more easily. Same goes for a white sock and dark thread. It doesn't have to match exactly; unless you are a foot model, not too many people will see your sock-covered feet. Thread the darning needle. This article says darning needle, but really it can just be a regular old needle. You will want to thread the needle with one or two strands of thread, depending on the weight of the sock. As you may have guessed, if it is a thicker sock you will want to use a thicker thread (or two pieces of thread.) Tie a knot in the end of the thread. You will begin by sewing from the inside of the sock, out, so that your knot is on the inside of your sock. Pull the sock over the darning egg. These little darning eggs are wooden ovals that help to push the toe of the sock out so that you can see where the hole is. You can buy them at any craft store. If you don't have a darning egg or don't want to buy one, you can pretty much use anything that is round. A tennis ball works well, as does a lightbulb, so long as you are very careful. You can also just use your other hand; stick it in the sock like you would your foot. This last option will make darning your sock a bit more difficult. Trim away any ragged edges. Use little sewing scissors to snip away any threads or flyaway string that are hanging from the hole. Just make sure that you don't actually snip one too many times and make your hole even larger. Push the needle through one end of the hole. You are now going to make a large running stitch to the other side of the hole. A running stitch is the most basic of sewing stitches. All it involves is running your needle and thread up through the inside of the sock and out, then making a stitch to the right, and then pulling your needle back up and out of the sock again. You can also choose to sew a running stitch for a few rows above and to either side of the hole. Doing this reinforces the sewing you will be doing to close the hole up and supports the thread around the hole (which is probably pretty thin and on the verge of forming a hole itself.) Repeat your stitches. You will want to run your stitches up and over the hole, going back and forth until the hole is blocked up with parallel stitches. Sew stitches perpendicular to the parallel stitches (optional. ) Creating stitches that go perpendicular to your previously made stitches will reinforce the patch you have essentially created out of thread. Weave your stitches in and out of the previous stitches. | Choose a thread. Thread the darning needle. Pull the sock over the darning egg. Trim away any ragged edges. Push the needle through one end of the hole. Repeat your stitches. Sew stitches perpendicular to the parallel stitches (optional. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Catch-a-Pond-Catfish | How to Catch a Pond Catfish | To catch a pond catfish, use a smelly bait and cast your line in the deepest part of the pond. Catfish love strong-smelling baits like chicken liver, night crawlers, and crawfish. If the catfish are big where you're fishing, or you're unsure of their size, use a heavy duty reel, which won't break as easily. Use a 10-pound test line with a lightweight slip sinker attached, which will help you get the bait near the bottom of the water. Look for a spot with a hole or a dip in the ground underwater. Catfish tend to live deep under water and near creeks, dams, or piles of rocks. They're also strong fish, so pull hard and spin the reel with force when you get a bite. | Select a bait that provides a strong smell. Catfish tend to be lured by smelly bait. When selecting the proper bait for your trap, opt for something that produces a strong odor. Some options include chad, chicken liver, night crawlers, and crawfish. Consider fish size when selecting a reel. Do you know roughly how big the catfish in your area tend to be? If not, ask other fishermen or look up information on your local Department of Natural Resources website. You can also try observing catfish in a nearby pond for a few days. Depending on the size of the catfish, you'll need a different sized reel. Light duty reels should be sufficient if the catfish in your area tend to be smaller. For larger catfish, go for a heavy duty reel. If catfish in your area come in many different sizes, it may be a good idea to opt for heavy duty reel just to play it safe. Pick an appropriate length rod. You may not need a long rod when fishing for catfish in a pond. While it will not hurt, longer rods are usually better suited for catching catfish in streams. A shorter rod, less than six to eight inches, should work for catching catfish in a pond. When it comes to fishing line, go for 10 pound test line. This allows you to get the bait towards the bottom of a body of water. Catfish tend to hang out deep under the water. Use a lightweight slip sinker. A sinker is a weight used to sink a fishing line. When catching catfish, always use the lightest weight sinker available. A lightweight sinker will allow the catfish to taste the bait without feeling the weight of the sinker. If your sinker is too heavy, a catfish will likely become suspicious and drop the bait. Make sure hooks have bait holders. As you generally don't use things like worms to catch catfish, make sure your hooks have bait holders. The types of bait you'll be using, like crawfish or chicken liver, cannot be easily hooked onto a fishing rod. Pick the right location. Location is vital to successfully catching catfish. Catfish tend to hangout in the deepest parts of the pond. Look for a hole or a dip in the ground underwater. You are also likely to find catfish near any obstruction in the pond, like a dam or a pile or rocks. If a creek feeds water into your pond, you're likely to find catfish here. There may be more food and vegetation near a creek, so catfish will congregate here in search of food. Catfish tend to hide in lakes and ponds. If there is algae or other vegetation in your pond, catfish are likely to be found here. Strive to be as quiet as possible. In a pond, it's easier for catfish to hear outside movement. When positioning yourself in the right location, try to be as quiet as possible. Walk slowly and keep your tackle box held close so it does not rattle around. Move delicately as you prepare your rod and bait. If a catfish hears too much motion, it will swim away. Use the tight line technique. The tight line technique involves attaching a tiny weight to your line. This will allow your line to fall down deeper into the pond. Catfish are more likely to be found at the bottom of the pond. This will also make it easier for you to feel a pull when a catfish grabs onto your line. Try fishing at night. Catfish are more likely to be found at night. If it's feasible for you, try to fish during the nighttime. Make sure to bring a flashlight or lantern so you can find your way around the pond. Anticipate resistance. Catfish can be very strong. When one does take your bait, it may provide a lot of resistance. Be prepared to pull on your rod hard, and use a lot of force when spinning your reel. Wear gloves when handling catfish. When you pull a catfish out of the water, make sure you wear gloves. When frightened, catfish will squirm. You can easily get cut by a catfish's fin without proper protection. Hold a catfish properly when removing it from your line. How you hold a catfish is important for safety. When removing the catfish from your line, wrap your hand around the fish behind the dorsal fin. The dorsal fin is the fin on top of a fish. Keep your fingers behind the gills and fins on the fish's side. You can use pliers to more easily remove the hook from a catfish. Kill the fish. It's important you kill a catfish humanely shortly after capture. There are two main ways to kill a fish: stunning or spiking. To stun a fish, lay a forceful blow to its head using a blunt instrument. Aim above the eyes as this is where the brain is located. Occasionally, fish will not die on the first blow and may only be unconscious. It's a good idea to do a second blow, just to be safe. If you have an ice pick or screwdriver handy, you can spike the fish. To do this, place the spike above the fish's eyes. Then, move the spike from side to side as this will destroy a fish's brain. Place on ice. Once the catfish is dead, immediately store it in ice. You should always bring a cooler containing ice with you when fishing for catfish. This will preserve the fish's freshness and flavor. Soak catfish overnight. You want to make sure your catfish are clean before cooking and eating them. To do so, you'll need to soak them overnight with salt and vinegar. Add enough water to a pot to cover your catfish. Then, add 1 tablespoon of salt and 2 tablespoons of vinegar. Refrigerate the pot overnight. Rinse the fish under cool water in the morning before cooking it. | Select a bait that provides a strong smell. Consider fish size when selecting a reel. Pick an appropriate length rod. Use a lightweight slip sinker. Make sure hooks have bait holders. Pick the right location. Strive to be as quiet as possible. Use the tight line technique. Try fishing at night. Anticipate resistance. Wear gloves when handling catfish. Hold a catfish properly when removing it from your line. Kill the fish. Place on ice. Soak catfish overnight. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Make-Girl-Hair-Bows | How to Make Girl Hair Bows | To make a hair bow, fold the length of ribbon over to make a loop, overlapping the ends by half an inch. Next, press down on the center of the ribbon and run a needle through it from the back to the front. Then, wrap the thread around the center several times to secure it and knot the thread. Tie a second piece of ribbon into a basic knot, position the knot over the center of the bow, and secure the ends of the ribbon at the back with hot glue. Finally, use hot glue to secure the bow firmly to a barrette. | Gather your supplies. For this simple hair bow, all you need is a length of ribbon, a threaded needle, a hot glue gun and a hair barrette. If you're just making the hair bow for fun, you don't need to worry too much about the length of the ribbon. However, if you need a hair bow of a specific size, you should cut a length of ribbon that's double the length of the desired bow, plus one inch. For example, if you want a two-inch hair bow you would measure out four inches, plus an extra inch (to allow for overlap). Make a loop. Fold the length of ribbon over to make a circular loop, so that the two ends overlap by about half an inch. Make sure the right side of the ribbon is facing out (especially if the ribbon is patterned). Run a needle through the center. Press down on the center of the ribbon to flatten the loop. Take your needle and thread and run your needle through the center of the folded ribbon, from the back to the front. Wrap the thread around. Fold the center of the bow, accordion style. Then wrap the thread around the center several times to secure. Knot the thread, then cut the rest. Add a center knot. Take a second piece of ribbon and tie a basic knot. Position the knot over the center of the bow, then secure the ends of the ribbon at the back using some hot glue or a small stitch. Attach the bow to the barrette. Place a little hot glue on top of the barrette, then firmly attach the bow. Leave to dry for an hour before using. Add the finishing touches. If you like, you can add some extra embellishments to the bow by hot gluing some sequins on or using some fabric glitter. You can also layer the bow by making a second bow with a contrasting colored ribbon. Place one bow on top of the other, then add the center knot (which wraps around both bows) before gluing to the barrette. Gather your supplies. To make a layered hair bow, you will need three lengths of ribbon in complimentary colors or patterns - one piece of ribbon will be used to form your "main bow" so it should be wider than the other two. You will also need a glue gun, a threaded needle with a knot tied at the end, some scissors, a bottle of fray check and a barrette. Make the loops. Take your widest piece of ribbon and make a loop in the center, similar to the loop you make when you're tying a shoelace. This first loop will determine the size of the finished bow, so readjust it until you find a size you like. If you're using patterned ribbon, make sure the patterned side is facing out. Holding the first loop securely with your thumb and forefinger, make a second loop on the opposite side. You should see the shape of a bow coming together. Make a third and fourth loop, using the same technique. The fourth loop should come down across the center of the ribbon (from left to right) to form the second tail of the bow. At this point, take a second to readjust each of the loops, to make sure they are all the same size. Secure with thread. Holding the four loops securely at the center point with your thumb and forefinger, grab the threaded needle in your other hand and run in the the center of the bow, from back to front. Make a number of stitches through the center of the bow to secure it. It doesn't matter if the stitches are messy, as you won't be able to see them when the bow is finished. Tie a knot in the thread at the back of the bow, then cut the thread with your scissors. If one of the tails on your bow is still attached to the spool of ribbon, cut it off. Keep the tails of the bow nice and long for now, you can cut them to your preferred length later. Make a second and third bow. Take the two smaller lengths of ribbon and use the same method to make two more bows. Try to make these bows slightly smaller than the last one, as you will be layering them on top of one another. Put the bows together. Take your larger bow and sit the two smaller bows on top, making sure the centers are aligned. Take your threaded needle and run it through the centers of all three bows, from back to front. Make several stitches to securely attach the bows. After several stitches, take the thread and wrap it around the center of the bow several times. Pull it tight in order to scrunch up the center of the bow. You may need to adjust the loops and the tails of the bow a little to make sure they are smoothed out and in the correct position. After you've wrapped the thread around the center of the bow several times, bring it around and tie a knot in the back to secure, then cut the thread. Make the center knot and attach to the barrette. Take a new piece of ribbon (it can be any of the three colors or patterns) and tie a simple knot. Readjust the ribbon to make sure the patterned side is facing out. Align the knot over the center of the bow - this will cover up those messy stitches you made earlier! Flip the bow around and use your glue gun to place a dot of glue on the center of the back of the bow. Take your barrette, open it, and press the top half into the glue. Take one end of the knotted piece of ribbon and pass it through the open barrette. Press it down to stick it to the glue beneath. Cut off any excess. Place a dab of glue on the piece of ribbon you just passed through the barrette, then take the opposite end of the knotted piece of ribbon and stick it in place. Cut off any excess. Now the bow is securely attached to the barrette. Trim the tails of the bow. Flip the bow over so it is facing the right way around. Take your scissors and trim all six tails of the bow. The easiest way to do this is to trim them at an angle, from the outside in. How long or short you cut the tails is a matter of personal preference. The final step is to take a bottle of fray check and run a small amount along the cut edge of each tail. This will prevent the ends from becoming frayed. | Gather your supplies. Make a loop. Run a needle through the center. Wrap the thread around. Add a center knot. Attach the bow to the barrette. Add the finishing touches. Gather your supplies. Make the loops. Secure with thread. Make a second and third bow. Put the bows together. Make the center knot and attach to the barrette. Trim the tails of the bow. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Make-a-Bow-for-a-Christmas-Tree-Topper | How to Make a Bow for a Christmas Tree Topper | To make a bow for the top of your Christmas tree, you'll need a spool of wire ribbon. First, make a large loop near the end of the ribbon with around 10 inches (25 cm) of fabric hanging off of the end. Pinching the base of the loop, unravel some more ribbon and make another loop of the same size going in the opposite direction as the first one. Gather the fabric at the center where the 2 loops meet, and lay the excess fabric hanging off of the end on top of the fabric that's coming out of the spool. Then, twist the 2 layers of fabric 3 times to secure the 2 loops. Next, make 2 more loops just like you made the first pair. Twist the ribbon in the center of the bow 3 times. Repeat the process until your bow is full of loops. Cut the excess fabric off. Next, take 2 lengths of ribbon and wrap them around the center of the bow where the loops meet. Use a wire tie or pipe cleaner to tie the center of your bow tight and secure the loops in place. Finally, use the remaining length of the wire tie or pipe cleaner to tie the bow to the top of your Christmas tree. | Make a loop. Pull six inches of wired ribbon from your spool and pinch it tightly between the thumb and forefinger of your left hand. Pull some more ribbon from your spool with your right hand and form a loop. Meet your hands together and scrunch the bottom of your loop with the rest of the pinched ribbon between the fingers of your left hand. Twist the pinched ribbon in your left hand to secure the loop. The size of your loops will depend on the size of your tree. For large trees, your loops should be ten to twelve inches long which means you'll need to pull at least twenty inches of ribbon to form each loop. Use wired ribbon. Wired ribbon will hold the shape you put it in while other ribbon will go limp. Most ribbon is one sided. Twist your ribbon so that the decorated side will be on the outside of your next loop. Make a figure eight. Pull more ribbon from your spool with your right hand. Form a loop that is in the opposite direction from your first loop. Add the bottom of your second loop to the pinched ribbon in our left hand and twist it clockwise to hold it in place. Your first two loops should form the shape of an eight. Make sure your second loop is the same size as the first. You want all your loops to be uniform. At this point you can hold your loops against your tree to make sure your bow will be the right size for it. Fill out your bow. Continue making alternating loops until you feel like your bow is complete. Ten loops should be adequate for an elaborate bow, but you can make less or more depending on your personal preference. Remember to pinch and twist the bottom of each loop tightly. You should have the bottoms of all the loops in your bow scrunched up between the thumb and forefinger of your left hand. The decorated side of the ribbon should be on the outside of each one of your loops. Make your central loop. After you've made all your loops, make one final loop perpendicular to the rest. Pinch the bottom of it in your left hand and twist it just like you've done with all the other loops. Fasten your loops together. Mold a piece of floral stem wire into a “u” shape. Insert the loose ends into your central loop and bend them around the bottom part of your bow. Pull the loose ends through the “u” part of the wire. Pull the loose ends in opposite directions to make a tight knot. Twist the ends of the wire several times to make sure they are securely fastened. Take another piece of floral wire and use the same method to fasten your bow to the top of your Christmas tree. Floral stem wire comes in a green, silver or white. Make sure to pick the best color to match your bow. The lower the gauge of floral wire, the thicker and less moldable it is. Twenty-six gauge floral stem wire is recommended for fastening bows. Cut some ribbon. Measure at least four lengths of wired ribbon and cut them off from your spool. These will be your streamers. Decide which end is the bottom of one streamer and fold the sides in half from the inside. Use scissors to make a diagonal cut at the bottom of your streamers from the outside to the inside. When you unfold your streamer, you should have a nice finish to the bottom of it. Repeat this method with all of your streamers. The length of your streamers depends on the size of your tree. They should be as long as the entire length of your tree. You can make as many streamers as you want, but your tree may look cluttered if there are too many. Fasten your streamers to your tree. Take a piece of floral stem wire and wrap it around the top of one of your streamers. Make sure it's secure by pulling the excess wire in opposite directions. Use the excess wire to fasten the streamer to a branch on your Christmas tree under your bow. Twist the floral wire tightly around the tree branch so that it stays in place. Repeat this method to tie the rest of your streamers to the tree. Make sure you hide the tops of the streamers under your bow. You want it look like your streamers are connected to the bow. Make waves. Give your streamers the illusion of movement by placing a paper towel roll under the ribbon and smoothing the rest of the tail under it. Be sure to use smooth movements when you're creating your waves. Make as many waves as you feel is necessary in your streamers. Don't press or pinch your streamers while you're making waves. Unnecessary prodding can put unwanted ripples in your streamers that can keep your waves from standing out. Don't overdo it. Too many waves can make your streamers look stiff. Secure the rest of your streamers in place. Weave your streamers into your tree. Strategically fold branches around your streamers to hold them in place around your Christmas tree. Try to fold at least three branches around each streamer. Make sure the folds are spread out along the length of the streamers. Don't fold too many branches around your streamers or they'll look cluttered. | Make a loop. Make a figure eight. Fill out your bow. Make your central loop. Fasten your loops together. Cut some ribbon. Fasten your streamers to your tree. Make waves. Secure the rest of your streamers in place. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Measure-a-TV | How to Measure a TV | To measure a TV, measure from the top left corner of the screen to the bottom right corner, which will give you the standard screen dimension. This is the dimension that's used to advertise the size of a TV in stores. Make sure you only measure the screen itself, and not the frame surrounding the screen. If you want to measure your TV's height and width, measure from top to bottom and side to side, including the frame. | Measure the screen from corner to corner to confirm the advertised size. Regardless of whether you're measuring a flat screen TV or another model type, start with the end of your tape measure at the top left corner of the screen and extend it to the bottom right corner. Measuring the screen diagonally will give you the standard screen dimension that manufacturers use to advertise the size of their TVs. Some common sizes for TVs based on the diagonal dimensions of the screen include 24 in (61 cm), 28 in (71 cm), 32 in (81 cm), 42 in (110 cm). 48 in (120 cm), and 60 in (150 cm). You can also find TVs with screens as big as 72 in (180 cm) or larger. Run your tape measure horizontally from side to side to find the width. This time, measure from the far left edge of the TV to the far right edge, including the bezel on both ends. The number you get will be the overall width, which should be a few inches less than the screen size. A TV listed as 60 in (150 cm), for example, will in reality only be 52.3 inches (133 cm) wide. Your TV's width is its most crucial measurement—it will come into play whether you opt to mount it on the wall or set it up on a cabinet or stand. Measure from top to bottom to get the height. Now, stretch your tape measure from the upper edge of the TV to the lower edge on the same side. Doing so will give you the overall height. Most newer TVs have a height that's around 56% of the total width. A 48 in (120 cm) TV with a screen that's 42 inches (110 cm) wide will have a height of around 25–27 inches (64–69 cm). Generally speaking, height doesn't matter as much as width. However, the vertical dimension could end up making a difference when you're deciding where to place your TV. Find the depth of the TV by measuring from front to back. This may be a little tricky if the backside of the TV is tapered. In this case, it can help to hold another long, flat object (such as a ruler) against the rear edge and measure the distance between the screen and the reference object. If that's not an option, you may also be able to get away with simply eyeballing it. You may need to consider the depth of your TV in order to guarantee that it will fit an existing cabinet or stand. TVs are continually being redesigned to take up less space. These days, many flat screen models are less than 10 inches (25 cm) deep with a stand attached, and as thin as 3 inches (7.6 cm) without. Measure your intended display space. If you haven't already, find the exact height and width of the area where you want your TV to go. You'll also need to note the depth of cabinets, stands, or entertainment centers to determine whether they're big enough to hold your TV. For maximum accuracy, round off your measurements to the nearest ⁄ 2 inch (1.3 cm). Jot the dimensions of your display space on a piece of paper and keep them with you when you're shopping around for your new TV. Allow for an extra 2–3 in (5.1–7.6 cm) of room in your display space. Make sure the stand or section of wall you'll be using is at least half a hand's width larger than your TV on all sides. That way, you can ensure that it fits comfortably and avoid any unpleasant surprises when it comes time to set it up. You may be able to squeeze a 50 in (130 cm) TV into an entertainment center with a 45 inches (110 cm) opening, but it will probably be too cramped to look good. A better choice would be a 46 in (120 cm) or 48 in (120 cm) model, which will provide a little breathing room on either side. You'll need to know your TV's width and height if you intend to mount it on the wall. If you want to place it on a stand or in an enclosed cabinet, and you'll also need to factor in its depth. Pick out a TV big enough to see clearly from where you’ll be sitting. A 50 in (130 cm) screen may sound impressive, but it could be a little underwhelming if you're watching from the opposite side of the room. When it comes to arriving at a reliable size estimate, a good rule of thumb is to multiply the distance between your seating area and TV in inches by 0.84. If you're going to be sitting about 72 inches (180 cm) away from your TV, for instance, a 60 in (150 cm) will provide optimum visibility. Another option is to use an online viewing calculator to get a better idea of what size screen would look best in your display space, or how far away you should sit from a screen of a certain size to get the best view. Understand your TV's aspect ratio to enjoy the best picture. The term “aspect ratio” refers to the relation between the width and height of a TV's display image. Newer widescreen TVs normally have an aspect ratio of 16:9. This means that the picture has a height of 9 inches (23 cm) for every 16 inches (41 cm) of width. Standard TVs squeeze the picture into a square image with an overall smaller area, while widescreen TVs take advantage of their added width to display the full image in its proper dimensions. A standard (4:3) TV and a widescreen TV could have the same diagonal screen measurement, but the picture would look quite different for each. Multiply standard screen sizes by 1.22 to get the same aspect ratio on a widescreen TV. If you're thinking about upgrading to a widescreen TV but you'd prefer to continue watching in a 4:3 format, multiply the diagonal screen measurement of the old TV by 1.22. The resulting number will tell you how big your new TV would have to be to produce the same size 4:3 image. If you currently have a 40 in (100 cm) standard TV, you'll need a widescreen TV with a screen that's at least least 50 inches (130 cm) to make sure your picture doesn't get smaller. | Measure the screen from corner to corner to confirm the advertised size. Run your tape measure horizontally from side to side to find the width. Measure from top to bottom to get the height. Find the depth of the TV by measuring from front to back. Measure your intended display space. Allow for an extra 2–3 in (5.1–7.6 cm) of room in your display space. Pick out a TV big enough to see clearly from where you’ll be sitting. Understand your TV's aspect ratio to enjoy the best picture. Multiply standard screen sizes by 1.22 to get the same aspect ratio on a widescreen TV. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Calculate-Molar-Absorptivity | How to Calculate Molar Absorptivity | To calculate molar absorptivity, make sure you first understand the Beer-Lambert law for absorbance. Then, rearrange the Beer-Lambert equation into an algebraic equation so you can solve for molar absorptivity. You can obtain the values for the variables in the algebraic equation by using spectrophotometry. Once you have the values, plug them in for the variables in your equation. Once those values are plugged in, solve the algebraic equation as you normally would. The answer you get is the molar absorptivity. | Understand the Beer-Lambert law for absorbance, A = ɛ x l x c. The standard equation for absorbance is A = ɛ x l x c , where A is the amount of light absorbed by the sample for a given wavelength, ɛ is the molar absorptivity, l is the distance that the light travels through the solution, and c is the concentration of the absorbing species per unit volume. Absorbance can also be calculated using the ratio between the intensity of a reference sample and the unknown sample. It is given by the equation A = log 10 (I o /I). Intensity is obtained using a spectrophotometer. The absorbance of a solution will change based on the wavelength that is passed through the solution. Some wavelengths will be absorbed more than others depending upon the makeup of the solution. Remember to state which wavelength is being used for your calculation. Rearrange the Beer-Lambert equation to solve for molar absorptivity. Using algebra we can divide absorbance by the length and the concentration to get molar absorptivity on one side of the equation: ɛ = A/lc. We can now use this basic equation to calculate molar absorptivity for a given wavelength. Absorbance between readings can vary due to the concentration of the solution and the shape of the container used to measure intensity. Molar absorptivity compensates for these variations. Obtain values for the variables in the equation using spectrophotometry. A spectrophotometer is a piece of equipment that passes a specific wavelength of light through a substance and detects the amount of light that comes out. Some of the light will be absorbed by the solution and the remaining light that passes through can be used to calculate the absorbance of that solution. Prepare a solution of known concentration , c , for analysis. Units for concentration are molar or moles/liter. To find l , measure the length of the cuvette, the piece that holds the liquid samples in the spectrophotometer. Units for path length are measured in centimeters. Using a spectrophotometer , obtain a measurement for absorbance, A , at a given wavelength. The unit for wavelength is meters, but most wavelengths are so small, they are actually measured in nanometers (nm). Absorbance has no units. Plug in the values for the variables and solve the equation for molar absorptivity. Using the values you obtained for A , c , and l , plug them into the equation ɛ = A/lc. Multiply l by c and then divide A by the product to solve for molar absorptivity. For example: Using a cuvette with a length of 1 cm, you measured the absorbance of a solution with a concentration of 0.05 mol/L. The absorbance at a wavelength of 280 nm was 1.5. What is the molar absorptivity of this solution? ɛ 280 = A/lc = 1.5/(1 x 0.05) = 30 L mol cm Measure the intensity of transmitted light through varying concentrations of solution. Make up three to four concentrations of one solution. Using a spectrophotometer , measure the absorbance of one concentration of solution at a given wavelength. Start with the lowest concentration of solution and move to the highest. The order isn't important, but keep track of which absorbance goes with which calculation. Plot the concentration versus absorbance on a graph. Using the values obtained from the spectrophotometer, plot each point on a line graph. For each individual value, plot the concentration on the X-axis and absorbance on the Y-axis. Draw a line between each of the points. If the measurements are correct, the points should form a straight line indicating absorbance and concentration are proportional to Beer's Law. Determine the slope of the line-of-best-fit through the data points. To calculate the slope of the line you take rise divided by run. Using two of your data points, subtract the X- and Y-values from each other, then divide Y/X. The equation for the slope of a line is (Y 2 - Y 1 )/(X 2 - X 1 ). The point higher on the line is given the subscript 2, while the lower point is given the subscript 1. For example: The absorbance at a.2 molar concentration is 0.27 and at 0.3 molar is 0.41. The absorbance values are Y-values, while concentrations are X-values. Using the equation for a line (Y 2 - Y 1 )/(X 2 - X 1 ) = (0.41-0.27)/(0.3-0.2) = 0.14/0.1 = 1.4 is the slope of the line. Divide the slope of the line by the path length (depth of the cuvette) to calculate molar absorptivity. The final step to calculating molar absorptivity with data points is to divide by the path length. The path length is the depth of the cuvette used in the spectrophotometer. Continuing our example: If 1.4 is the slope of the line and the path length is 0.5 cm, then the molar absorptivity is 1.4/0.5 = 2.8 L mol cm. | Understand the Beer-Lambert law for absorbance, A = ɛ x l x c. Rearrange the Beer-Lambert equation to solve for molar absorptivity. Obtain values for the variables in the equation using spectrophotometry. Plug in the values for the variables and solve the equation for molar absorptivity. Measure the intensity of transmitted light through varying concentrations of solution. Plot the concentration versus absorbance on a graph. Determine the slope of the line-of-best-fit through the data points. Divide the slope of the line by the path length (depth of the cuvette) to calculate molar absorptivity. |
https://www.wikihow.pet/Diagnose-and-Treat-Fading-Kitten-Syndrome | How to Diagnose and Treat Fading Kitten Syndrome | To diagnose and treat fading kitten syndrome, monitor your kitten's weight to see if it's gaining less than 7 grams per day, which could be a sign that it has fading kitten syndrome. Also, check to see if your kitten can roll over by the third day after it's born. If it can't, it could be suffering from fading kitten syndrome. At this point, keep the kitten separated from the litter, and make sure it stays warm by wrapping it in blankets and towels and keeping the ambient temperature comfortable. Additionally, if the kitten can't nurse, bottle feed it every 2 hours. If the kitten continues to weaken, seek medical attention. | Take the kitten’s temperature. Hypothermia is the most common symptom of fading kitten syndrome. You should take a newborn kitten's temperature regularly. In the first week, a kitten's rectal temperature should be between 95 and 98.6 degrees Fahrenheit (35 to 37 degrees Celsius). The temperature should increase to between 96.8 and 100.4 degrees Fahrenheit (36 to 38 degrees Celsius) in the second and third weeks. By the fourth week it should reach standard adult levels of between 100.4 and 102.2 degrees Fahrenheit (38 to 39 degrees Celsius). See if the kitten can support itself and roll over. By three days of age, a kitten should be able to roll over if it's placed on its back. By two weeks of age, it should be able to support itself on all four limbs and begin to crawl. Failure to reach these milestones could indicate weakness associated with fading kitten syndrome. Look for inadequate weight gain. A healthy kitten's weight should increase by seven to ten grams per day. You should weigh a newborn kitten twice per day using a precise gram scale. Failure to gain adequately gain weight can indicate malnutrition and possible underlying problems. Check for physical abnormalities. Congenital defects are a common cause of fading kitten syndrome. Look for common abnormalities such as cleft palate, umbilical hernia, and skeletal defects. These kittens are often weaker than the rest of the litter. They tend to be smaller or "runty." They may spend time away from the rest of the group and are usually the last to feed. The mother may even ignore or reject a fading kitten or refuse to nurse it. Unfortunately, severe defects are usually untreatable. Bring the kitten to the vet at the first sign of trouble. For the best chance of saving the kitten, you should seek veterinary care sooner rather than later. If possible, you should bring the entire litter in for examination to rule out a litter-wide health issue. The queen, or litter mother, should also be examined by the vet. Have the vet test for infections. The vet should administer a blood test and bacterial culture to identify an infection or infestation. Fading kitten syndrome can be due to a variety of viral or bacterial infections. Internal and external parasites can also compromise a newborn kitten's health. Improper nursing or failure to nurse can increase the risk of infection and infestation. During the first few weeks after giving birth, the mother passes protective antibodies through colostrum, which is a fluid the kittens ingest when they nurse. Keep the kitten separated and warm. The kitten should be separated from the litter, especially if an infection is detected. Kittens rely on huddling with their mother and littermates to keep warm, so you should take efforts to keep a separated kitten warm. Keep the ambient temperature as warm as possible. Keep the kitten wrapped in a blanket or towel. You can use a heating pad to keep its box warm, but be sure to check the pad frequently to make sure it's not too hot. Provide humid nursery conditions. In addition to maintaining a warm temperature, nursery conditions should also be humid. Using a humidifier if necessary, keep the ambient humidity between 55 and 65 percent. Humidity will help prevent fluid loss and dehydration. Treat dehydration and malnutrition. If the kitten cannot nurse, you should bottle feed it every two hours. If it cannot suckle, it'll require a dextrose solution (a sugar solution), which the vet can administer intravenously. Wipe the kitten's rear end with a damp cotton cloth after each feed and remove urine and feces. This also ensures you're mimicking the care the kitten would receive from its mother. If the kitten is dehydrated, the vet will also have to administer an intravenous fluid line. Treat any infections or parasites. If the vet identified an infection or parasitic infestation, they will likely prescribe an antibiotic or antifungal medication. If the kitten can suckle, a liquid medication can be added to milk. If not, medication will likely have to be injected. | Take the kitten’s temperature. See if the kitten can support itself and roll over. Look for inadequate weight gain. Check for physical abnormalities. Bring the kitten to the vet at the first sign of trouble. Have the vet test for infections. Keep the kitten separated and warm. Provide humid nursery conditions. Treat dehydration and malnutrition. Treat any infections or parasites. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Adjust-Ski-Bindings | How to Adjust Ski Bindings | To adjust ski bindings for alpine skiing, look at the heels of your boots to see how long they are in millimeters. Use a screwdriver to adjust the front binding to match it. Next, put a boot in the binding and adjust the binding until the pressure indicator on the back of the heel piece is in the middle of the adjustment zone. Then, have a professional from your local ski shop help you adjust the DIN to your weight based on a chart or online calculator. | Adjust the front of the binding. Before calibrating the bindings to match the DIN setting (release force setting), you'll need to adjust the length and pressure of the bindings to match the boot size. Not every binding is the same, even within the Alpine class. The front of the bindings will have a millimeter counter on the front which you will need to match with the number of the boot's sole length. The length of the sole is usually printed in millimeters somewhere on the heel of your boot. Some newer bindings have a locking feature that allows you to release and adjust the binding without having to use a screwdriver. When adjusting bindings you should always consult a professional technician and a DIN chart at your local ski shop. Position a ski boot in the ski binding so that the toe of the boot is fitted into the front of the binding. When you lock the boot into the binding, you'll need to check the midsole and the forward pressure system. Check to make sure the middle of the boot matches the middle of the ski. Then, locate the pressure indicator on the back binding. The indicator, found on the heel piece, needs to be in the middle of the adjustment zone. Move the heel binding a few millimeters until you're in the correct position. Calculate your DIN. The DIN number (so-called because the standard was established by the Deutsches Institut für Normung) determines how much force is necessary to release the boot from the binding. For most adult skiers who are beginners or intermediate, the DIN setting will be between 2-7. Adult intermediate to expert level skiers will be between 3-12. The DIN number depends on several factors including the skier's weight, height, age, boot length, and skier ability. Use a DIN calculator to figure out the DIN. You should not attempt to adjust your DIN setting or make major adjustments to your bindings without the help of a certified technician. Improper adjustments can lead to a serious injury, like a torn ACL or worse. Adjusting your DIN setting can also void your warranty. Calculating your DIN setting is hard to do without a chart. So it's best to refer to an online calculator and a ski professional. The DIN setting will factor your age, weight, ability, height, and boot sole length to give you an approximate number. Adjust your toe piece to match your DIN settings. With a screwdriver, rotate the screw located at the front of the ski binding until the number next to it matches your DIN number. The toe piece of your bindings will have an area that displays several numbers, usually on the top. Turning the screw will move the indicator allowing you to match it with the correct DIN number. The DIN number is an indication of your release force setting. This setting determines the strength of the release trigger when you fall. Having the proper setting is extremely important, which is why you shouldn't attempt to do this unless you are a professional. If your boot releases too early or too late you will seriously injure yourself. Adjust the back of the binding. Make sure you've slid the back end of the ski binding up so that it is snug against the heel of the ski boot. The pressure indicator should be in the proper position. Turn the screw located on the rear ski binding until the skier's DIN number aligns with the indicator. Test the fit. Grab a ski pole and put on your ski boots. Position the boots in the bindings toe-first, using your heel to lock the binding in place. Make sure your brakes are in proper position. When the binding is open, the rear brake will be parallel to the ski; it will snap to a 45-degree angle when it's closed. Use the ski pole to push down on the brake to unlock the binding. You should feel some resistance when trying to release your bindings. You can then use the foot you just released to step down on the other binding to release. Adjust the fit if necessary. If you're having difficulty opening the binding with a ski pole, you might want to try a lower DIN. Be careful, though; set the DIN too low, and you'll pop out of your bindings and injure yourself on the slopes. Set it too high and your boot won't release at all. See a professional. Even if you think you've got your bindings adjusted correctly, check your work with a professional. Certified technicians will be able to help you achieve an ideal fit. Check your binding type. For cross country skis, there are a few types of bindings that you may be working with. Because not every binding works with every type of cross country boot, you will have a certain type depending on the boots you have. The main types of bindings are: New Nordic Norm (NNN), or the Nordic Integrated System (NIS). These bindings feature two thin raised ridges that fit to matching grooves in your boots. The boot will have a metal rod at the toe which clips into the front of the binding and acts like a door hinge. Salomon Nordic System (SNS) Profil bindings. These bindings use a single, wide binding ridge and a single matching sole groove. SNS Pilot bindings. These bindings are similar to the Profile bindings. Except these bindings use two metal rods to click into two different binding slots. These bindings are thought to offer superior kick motion and flex while providing excellent stability. Adjust the front of the binding. If you have NIS or NNS bindings, you can adjust the bindings with your NIS key. Insert the key into your binding and press down. This also works on skate skis with an NIS plate. The key allows you to slide the binding up or down along the ski. There are slots under the binding which your binding will click into. Every time you place your binding correctly into a slot, you will hear a click. On classic skis, moving the binding toward the tip of the skis will give you a better grip. Moving it back gives you better glide. On skate skis, moving the binding toward the tip of the skis toward the tail gives you a lower gear which translates to a faster start up with your stride. Moving toward the tip gives you a higher gear and a higher maximum speed. As of January 1, 2016, Salomon bindings will carry the NNN system. Meaning that you won't have to screw holes and mount the bindings into the correct position. You will be able to adjust new skate bindings with an NIS key. Adjust the front of the binding for your proper DIN. With a screwdriver, rotate the screw located at the front of the ski binding until the number next to it matches your DIN number. Position a ski boot in the ski binding so that the toe of the boot is fitted into the front of the binding. Make sure you have the right type of bindings for Nordic skiing. Cross-country touring bindings are lightweight and more narrow, intended for use on groomed tracks or relatively flat expanses of snow. Metal-edge touring bindings are heavier and wider. These bindings are meant to be used in more rugged terrain. Adjust the back plate. You can also adjust your back plate to match your bindings to your boot's length. Insert the key into your back plate and move it forward or backward to match the distance you moved your front plate. Check for fit and range of motion. Nordic ski bindings attach only at the front of the foot, leaving the heel free and detached from the ski. If you've adjusted the bindings correctly you should be able to move easily and feel like you have adequate control over the skis. Put on your ski boots and test your bindings. You should be able to release your boots from the bindings by pressing down on a release near the toe with a ski pole or with your hands. Adjust the fit. If your boot doesn't feel secure in your bindings you will have to adjust the bindings with your key again. Move the back plate forward or backward to adjust for your boot's size. Repeat the process on the second ski. Barring rare exceptions, your DIN and binding fit on the second ski should be the same as the first. Adjusting your skis should be done by a professional technician at your local ski shop. These professionals can make sure you have the correct gear setup. A professional will make sure that your skis are adjusted for your body and ability level. Determine your preferred type of skiing. The type of skis you get will differ on how and where you ski. If you like to ski larger hills and mountains that offer steeper runs, you will want Alpine skis, or possibly Telemark skis. Alpine skis are made for steeper runs where you will be riding up to the top of a hill or mountain and then skiing down to the base. Pick the right types of skis for you. There are four main types of downhill skis, and three main types of cross country skis. You have all mountain skis, twin tip skis, backcountry, and racing skis. The equipment you need for these different types of skis will not be the same across the board. All mountain skis with a wider waist are the best for all around skiing. Twin tips have two tips which bend up, like a snowboard. These skis fall into two relative categories, all mountain, and park. Backcountry skis are the widest and are meant for powder and ungroomed trails. These skis help you float on the snow but don't let you turn as sharply. Cross country and Randonée skis don't accommodate for steep slopes. These skis feature lighter gear that aids in skating and climbing. These skis don't allow for very sharp turns. Telemark skis are a sort of mix ski that offers the ability to remove your back heel like in a Nordic ski. But a telemark ski is still designed for skiing down steeper and more aggressive slopes. Consult a professional. The best way to get the proper setup is to go to your local ski shop and get outfitted and measured by a ski professional. Professional technicians can properly adjust your bindings and pair you with the right boots and equipment. You should consult a professional every season as your weight and ability may have changed. | Adjust the front of the binding. Position a ski boot in the ski binding so that the toe of the boot is fitted into the front of the binding. Calculate your DIN. Adjust your toe piece to match your DIN settings. Adjust the back of the binding. Test the fit. Check your binding type. Adjust the front of the binding. Adjust the front of the binding for your proper DIN. Adjust the back plate. Check for fit and range of motion. Adjust the fit. Determine your preferred type of skiing. Pick the right types of skis for you. Consult a professional. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Be-an-Educated-Man | How to Be an Educated Man | To become an educated man, you'll want to keep yourself up to date on current events by reading newspapers or listening to news radio. Once you're informed about what's going on in the world, find opportunities to talk to people who are educated and have different interests. Going to talks and lectures is an opportunity to both learn new things and meet intelligent people. A truly educated man stays composed, so speak carefully and avoid bragging about yourself. | Follow the daily news. Find a newspaper that you like, and read it daily. With the advent of the web, this is actually a very easy task. Reading your local news is not enough, so try to focus on news at the country and world level. You want to know as much about the wider world as possible. You can even try reading several different daily newspapers. You might want to read commentaries on the news as well. Having view over different opinions is important for creating a general overview of what is happening in the world. You should read a variety of publications. Don't limit to yourself to one country's newspaper. Here are a few significant international publications: The India Times Le Monde The Asahi Shimbun The New York Times The Guardian Washington Post Take notes about key areas. Jot down notes about areas of the world that you are interested in. These notes can be a solid foundation for your later research. For example, let's say that you have just read an article about ISIS. If you write down details about the countries ISIS occupies, such as Iraq and Libya, then you can find out more about how the current situation started. Stay critical. Do not necessarily take everything you read at face value. Notice the biases and omissions of different newspapers instead of simply taking in talking points. Listen to news radio. Tune in to a news radio broadcast. The BBC and NPR are both good places to get solid world news. Since both are publicly funded, they may not be as biased as other news sources. News radio is also helpful because you will receive guidance on how to pronounce names of important regions and people. Read current events magazines. Magazines like Harper's Magazine , The Atlantic , The Economist , Der Spiegel , and The New Yorker are good places to find out about what's happening in the world. You can probably find copies at your local library, but you can also opt to subscribe to the magazines you enjoy. These magazines will give you details about the events you have read about in the newspaper. They often run long-form articles that focus on a specific region or topic. These magazines have online versions as well. Peruse their archives and don't simply focus on the news of the day. A piece on classical music from the 1930s might lead you to a composer you've never heard of before. The more of these articles you read, then the more you will broaden your general knowledge. Writers in these magazines often write books as well. These books supply even more information about the topics that you have read about in magazines. Go to museums. Look at art pieces and engage with what you see. Try to take your time with several pieces. As you look at these art objects, try to comprehend what makes them special and individual. This should take time. Art appreciation is about contemplation. Engage with each art object with a different lens. A painting is different from a photograph and vice-versa. You should not look at a contemporary work in the same way that you would look at a classical one. Therefore, a contemporary oil painting deserves a different way of seeing than an oil painting from three hundred years ago. Remember that periods matter, as do movements. Take a tour. The guide will tell you important details about significant pieces of artwork. Listen carefully, even if you have seen the piece before, you might find out a novel fact about the artwork or the artist. See if they have take-away guides. These can also give you vital information about the museum's collection. Read literature. Immerse yourself in both contemporary and classic literature. Fiction can make you more empathetic by showing you the perspectives of other people. Start with classic literature. For example, Plutarch's Lives is a compendium of stories about Greek and Roman men who lived interesting lives. Each story examines both the positive and negative qualities of these men. Observe the characters in these stories, and absorb the lessons in these tales. Read philosophy. Philosophy will give you the tools to discuss questions about morality and free will. By reading philosophy books, you will be able to examine your own life and thought more clearly. This can aid in decision-making. Read foundational works of philosophy. Start with Plato's Republic. This fundamental work of philosophy consists of dialogues between Socrates and his students as they attempt to figure out what the perfect society would look like. As they design their hypothetical city, they discourse on free will, morality, and belief. Take copious notes. When you read these books, make sure to keep a notepad handy so you can scribble down notes about the themes and ideas in these texts. You don't want to get bogged down in every last detail. Writing down the most significant portion of what you've read is a great way to avoid becoming lost as you try to tackle these important works. Watch films. Try to watch art-house films. There are many excellent films out there. Take the opportunity to watch a few of them. If it helps, try to pick one director and watch as much of their filmography as possible. Then, read criticism about films that you have seen. When you do this, you will be able to pick up on how that director decides to edit and shoot their films. Read criticism. Read magazines like Sight and Sound and Cahiers du Cinema. Both have contemporary art-house film reviews and essays. They also publish articles about older, classic films by film scholars. The AV Club is also a great resource on films both old and new. Individual critics' websites can be helpful as well. Listen to music. Of course, you probably listen to music. However, if you don't already listen to a variety of different genres, you should try listening to a type of music that you haven't listened to before. For example, if you mainly listen to rock music, you should try listening to classical. Or, if you only listen to classical, try listening to rock music. You want to have a diverse range of musical tastes. This shows that you are willing to explore. Talk to people who are reasonably educated. Get into conversations with people who have learned, whether through school or work, a great deal about life. Speak to them, and try to understand how they obtained that knowledge. Ask them questions about subjects that you don't understand. Talk to people from a variety of professions. Education takes its form in a variety of ways. An educated man realizes this. Your mechanic can as knowledgeable as your professor. Go to public lectures. Find out if a scholar or writer is giving a talk in your neighborhood. Go to the talk and listen to what they have to say. Often, after a talk, a question and answer session is held. Not only will you learn about a subject, but you will also be able to ask the lecturer questions directly. Again, try to take accurate notes. This will make it easier for you to come up with good, stimulating questions that will allow for an invigorating discussion. Of course, don't tire yourself writing down every word. Remember, you just want to mark down key concepts and ideas. Stay open-minded. During the course of your conversations, you will almost certainly end up disagreeing with the person you are conversing with. Try to understand their viewpoint. This does not mean that you need to agree with everything you hear. This would be foolish. However, an educated man does not dismiss someone based on a disagreement. Actually, arguments and debates show that you are willing to entertain ideas that are different from your own. They help you to develop your own point of view. If you disagree with a perspective, you could say: "I see why you would think this. However, I have a different take on the matter." Keep your composure. The mark of an educated man is a calm exterior. Don't be quick to anger. For example, don't start screaming because someone has angered you, simply react calmly and try to resolve the issue. You don't necessarily need to disguise your emotions. You might be angry but don't let that feeling affect the way you behave. If you find yourself becoming angry, try to center yourself. Meditation is a good way to do this. Speak in a level tone of voice. Don't raise your voice. You should still talk to people, but you do not want to be loudest person in the room, as this can make it seem like you are trying to call attention to yourself. However, you don't want to be too quiet either. If you are very quiet, you may seem timid. An educated man will aim to strike a balance in his speech. Be humble. An educated man is well-mannered and gentle. Try to avoid seeming arrogant or braggadocios. Contribute to the conversation by putting forth your point of view, but do this selectively. After all, you don't need to show off your learning in every social situation. Ask questions. When you don't understand something, ask for an explanation. Don't be afraid to do this. This shows that you are willing to learn. It is better to make a mistake while learning something new than to remain in ignorance due to a fear of embarrassing oneself. An inquisitive mind is an intelligent one. If you did not understand a point, say: "Would you mind explaining your last point again?" | Follow the daily news. Take notes about key areas. Listen to news radio. Read current events magazines. Go to museums. Read literature. Read philosophy. Take copious notes. Watch films. Listen to music. Talk to people who are reasonably educated. Go to public lectures. Stay open-minded. Keep your composure. Speak in a level tone of voice. Be humble. Ask questions. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Avoid-People-You-Don%27t-Want-to-Talk-To | How to Avoid People You Don't Want to Talk To | To avoid someone you don't want to talk to, try to stay away from places you think they'll be. For example, if they're going to a party or social gathering, do something else that night. Alternatively, move away from them whenever they come close to you without making a big deal about it so it's clear you don't want to interact with them. You can also tell your friends or colleagues that you're trying to avoid the person so they can distract you or stand between you both. If you have to interact with the person, be polite so you don't give them any reason to get annoyed with you. | Keep a positive attitude. Sometimes you may not want to talk to certain people because you feel uncomfortable in your surroundings. Take a deep breath and tell yourself that you are an enjoyable person to be around. Remind yourself that you are entitled to your boundaries and it's ok to voice your feelings to feel comfortable. Focus on what you want and what will make you happy. Then, try and find people that have a similar attitude as you. Instead of trying to avoid people, which is a negative, focus on surrounding yourself with people like you who make you feel comfortable. Your thoughts contribute to your mood, and even your actions. Smile and take a moment to tell yourself that you are where you are meant to be. Having a positive attitude will help you to attract other positive people. Engage in activities that you enjoy. You won't always like, or want to talk to everyone everywhere, but doing activities you enjoy is more likely to surround you with people you are comfortable engaging with. If you're in school, join a group or club that interests you. Whether you're introverted or extroverted, there are plenty of extracurriculars for every type of person. From theatre, to the track team, you can find an activity and a group of people that are like you. Not only will doing something you like give you confidence and let you get to know people like you, but it will give you a way to stay busy and avoid situations and people you'd rather not be around. Focus on enjoying your experiences. Instead of worrying about other people, and how someone may react to you, focus on enjoying yourself. Know that if someone is being mean to you, or trying to make you feel bad, that it's always not your problem. Oftentimes people will take out frustration on someone else due to personal insecurities. Putting your energy into enjoying what you are doing can make it easier to avoid someone. You won't have time to deal with someone who isn't helping your experience. Enjoy the company of your friends. Whether you're in a social setting, at school, or at work, surrounding yourself with people you get along with is a great way feel more comfortable. If you are often in a situation where you are near rude people or people you don't want to talk to, enlist your friends to come to your defense. Tell your friends about the person(s) that bother you. Explain why in a calm manner and ask your friends to provide a barrier if this person approaches you. Treat everyone with civility. If you encounter someone you don't want to talk to because this person is rude, or you two have a history, remember to stay polite. Being courteous and not letting someone's attitude toward you goad you into retaliating is an effective way to keep any conversation short. You won't always be able to completely avoid someone you don't want to talk to. However, you can minimize your interactions with this person by keeping a polite poker face. Pause, and take a deep breath. Focus on yourself. Your goal is to end this interaction as quickly as possible. Politely excuse yourself from the conversation. Instead of acting similarly to this other person. Remain calm and say that you have to meet a friend or have an appointment. Then you can leave the situation. Draw your own boundaries. You don't always have to express what your boundaries are to someone you wish to avoid, but you should know what you are willing to tolerate. Stand your ground and stick to it. These can be both mental and physical boundaries. You have a right to your personal space and it's ok to be clear about what that space means to you. Whether you're dealing with a co-worker, schoolmate, or ex, be clear about how and when you are willing to interact with this person. Though it may be difficult, don't be afraid to be blunt. If someone has a history of invading your personal space, the next time you have an encounter, simply tell this person to give you more space physically. You can also be upfront at the beginning of conversation that you only have a certain amount of time to talk. Additionally, you can inform someone that you prefer to communicate via email or text. Ignore this person. Chances are that you are not the only person who wishes to avoid a certain person. Pay attention to how others deal with someone you wish to avoid. If you've tried more upfront methods that haven't worked, simply ignore this person. Ask other people how to best deal with ignoring this person. Sometimes you have a relationship with someone that just isn't going to work out. This person can be someone you were in a relationship with, or even a coworker. If you have made attempts to create distance that have not worked out, simply ignore this person. Ignoring someone isn't always the easiest, especially if this person is insistent, but over time, not giving in can prove effective. Ignoring someone doesn't mean ridiculing a person or making mean face or gesture. It simply means you act as if this person isn't around you. Don't pretend this person isn't there in an immature way, however. Sometimes ignoring someone means you have to be the bigger person and excuse yourself from the gathering or area. Avoid situations where you might interact with this person. Sometimes you have to make changes to avoid someone you don't want to talk to. If you know this person is going to be at a party or gathering, don't go. Unless you're in a situation where you can't excuse yourself like school or work, you may have to choose not to attend a function to avoid someone. Tell a close friend that you aren't going to be attending the event. Be honest with your friend as to why, but don't be rude. If you are somewhere and you see someone you want to avoid talking to or interacting with, see if you can move elsewhere. If you're at a party or bar, you may be able to go to another area and avoid running into this person. Ask for help. If you really don't want to interact with someone but are having a hard time avoiding this person, ask people for help. You can get help from your friends, parents, your boss, or a counselor. If you find that you can't avoid this person because you have class or work with this individual, consider talking to someone who can help like your boss or a counselor. Calmly explain why you can't be around this person. Perhaps this individual makes it hard for you to complete your work because you are uncomfortable. Maybe you can't focus in class because this person won't leave you alone. Tell an authority figure why you need to be removed from situations where you interact with this person. Cut ties with this person. If you are able to, be upfront and end the relationship. If you have an ex that you don't want to see or talk to anymore, or someone that might be in your larger friend group, you can simply cut ties with this person. Establish your boundaries once and don't apologize. Your health and peace of mind are the most important. Though it may be hard, tell this person that you won't engage in any sort of contact anymore. Stick to your convictions. Some people may not easily leave you alone. But if you've stated your intentions, your job is done. Don't engage anymore. It's ok to outright say that you don't want to talk to or see this person again. Sometimes if you are blunt and a little harsh, people will finally get the message. You may feel mean at first, but try and remember, this is better for your personal health. The next day, if you see them near you just smile. If they try to ask you why you're avoiding them, just lie and say s' 'I'm not avoiding you, if that's how it seems then I'm sorry. I'm not in a mood because something personal happened, I'm sorry. | Keep a positive attitude. Engage in activities that you enjoy. Focus on enjoying your experiences. Enjoy the company of your friends. Treat everyone with civility. Draw your own boundaries. Ignore this person. Avoid situations where you might interact with this person. Ask for help. Cut ties with this person. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Apply-Tooth-Gems | How to Apply Tooth Gems | To apply tooth gems, purchase a tooth gem kit that has been developed with or by dental professionals. Choose the gems you want to use and lay them out, so you can quickly apply them before your glue dries, then wash your hands thoroughly. Before you begin gluing on the gems, brush your teeth and dry them with the cotton provided in your kit. Once you're ready, stir the glue according to your kit's instructions, and apply 2 small dabs of it to each tooth with the applicator wand. Then, dip the wand in a little hand cream to pick up a gem, and carefully press the gem into the glue on your tooth. Finally, use the UV lamp to set the glue and keep the gem in place. | Purchase a tooth gem kit. There are a number of companies and websites that sell kits for applying your own tooth gems. You can choose from the available kits based on the types of gems you want. Choose a kit that has been developed with or by dental professionals to avoid doing damage to your teeth. At home tooth gem kits will allow gems to stay on for up to several weeks. If you want your gems to last significantly longer, have them applied professionally, by a dentist. Test the UV lamp. Your tooth gem kit should come with a small battery powered UV lamp. Take it out of the kit and test it. This may require taking the batteries out of the lamp and removing any paper or plastic that was placed between the batteries for shipment. Always wear UV-protective eyewear, such as sunglasses, before testing or using a UV lamp. Turn the lamp on to test it. It should create a blue-purple light when it is on. Look in the kit for any additional instructions on using the particular UV lamp it contains. Lay out the rest of the kit. Applying tooth gems means working with a number of small objects in a short amount of time. Make sure to lay out all of the different tools, including the gems you'll use. This will allow you quick and easy access to the tools you'll need when you need them. Lay everything out on a clean surface. Make sure you have plenty of light so that you can see what you're doing. Choose your gems. Chances are that your kit has come with a variety of gems. Select which ones you will apply. Place them gem side up so you can see them and pick them up easily. You can put the other gems to the side or back in the kit. If you plan to apply multiple gems, lay them all out now. You want to be able to apply them all in a short time while the glue is fresh. Squeeze out some hand cream. Your kit may not come with this, so you'll need to get it on your own. Place a small dollop of hand cream with your tools. You'll need it for getting the gem to stick to the applicator wand. Choose a simple cream that won't overwhelm you with fragrance when it's near your face. You only need a tiny amount of hand cream. Brush your teeth. Brush your teeth well as you normally would. Make sure to rinse with water afterward to remove any residue or remaining toothpaste. Wash your hands so that they'll be clean when they touch the gems and your teeth. Tooth gems will not impede brushing or other dental hygiene once applied. Tooth gems can only be applied to natural enamel teeth. They will not stick to implants or dentures. Don't apply gems to damaged or cracked teeth, or teeth in need of other dental treatment. Wash your hands. You'll want clean hands since you'll be touching things that will be going in or near your mouth. If someone else is helping you apply the tooth gems, make sure they wash their hands as well. Use soap and warm water to properly wash hands. Expose the tooth. The best way to do this is to smile in a way that shows your teeth. Once you've done this, take one of the provided cotton balls and place it between the tooth and the lip to keep the lip away from the tooth. This is done to keep the tooth exposed and dry. If the lip still touches the tooth, use more pieces of cotton around it to pull the lip from the tooth. Place another cotton roll between the upper and lower teeth and bite down on it. Dry the tooth. Use a piece of provided cotton to completely dry the tooth. This is a crucial step to making sure the gem will adhere to the tooth. If the tooth is not completely dry, it will not allow the glue to adhere. Stir the glue. Your kit should come with applicator wands for the glue. Use one to stir the glue. Check your specific kit's instructions for how to stir the glue and for how long. Some kits say to stir the glue for five seconds. Apply the glue to the tooth. Now that the applicator wand has glue on it, place a dab of glue on the tooth. Place the glue in the spot where you want the gem to sit. You only need a little bit of glue, so don't overdo it. Do this relatively quickly so that the glue is freshly stirred when it's applied. Apply two coats or dabs of glue. Apply the gem. Dip the other end of the applicator into the small amount of hand cream that you laid out. The hand cream will help the gem stick to the applicator wand. You only need a small amount for the gem to stick to it. Once you've dipped the applicator in the hand cream, touch it to the gem side of the gem. The flat side should stay clean and not touch the hand cream at all. Once the gem is on the applicator wand, bring it to your tooth and press it into the place when you dabbed the glue. The gem should stay on the tooth.You can move the gem into the right place if it isn't exactly where you want it. Use the wand to do this. Use the UV lamp to set the glue. Different kits will have different amounts of time that the glue needs to set for. However, four minutes may be a minimum amount of time. Hold the lamp as close to the tooth and gel as possible without touching the tooth. Make sure you're wearing your UV protective eyewear, as is anyone else watching the procedure. Clean up. Your gem should now be affixed to the tooth. If your gem has been successfully adhered, it should be able to stay put through normal dental hygiene. Be sure to brush well under and around teh gem regularly, as that area can become more prone to decay if not taken care of. Take all of the cotton out of your mouth. When you want to remove the gem, there are a few options. If you want to take it off before it falls off naturally, you can sometimes use dental floss to help pull it off from the top down. Otherwise, make an appointment with your dentist, who will remove it the same way they remove dental brackets. | Purchase a tooth gem kit. Test the UV lamp. Lay out the rest of the kit. Choose your gems. Squeeze out some hand cream. Brush your teeth. Wash your hands. Expose the tooth. Dry the tooth. Stir the glue. Apply the glue to the tooth. Apply the gem. Use the UV lamp to set the glue. Clean up. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Make-a-Rubber-Band-Gun | How to Make a Rubber Band Gun | To fashion a basic rubber band rifle, first choose a piece of soft wood or bamboo that's about 2 feet long to make the stock and barrel. When you're ready to make the release, glue a clothespin near the back end of the stock, with the gripping end facing forward. After the glue has dried, use a knife or small saw to cut a notch into the front end of the stock. Finish up by stretching a sturdy rubber band from the notch to the clothespin, then pinch the rubber band firmly in place at the other end with the clothespin. Squeeze the clothespin to release and fire your rubber band. | Grab your pencil peashooter components. This rubber band shooter gets its name from the pencil that forms its stock. The bits and pieces you'll need to make your peashooter are mostly common household items, and include: Pencil Thumbtack Hot glue gun or superglue Clothespin Rubber band Attach your clothespin catch to your pencil. Using your hot glue or superglue, attach your clothespin so it is lined up with the writing end of your pencil, with the alligator clip side facing the eraser. Allow enough time for the glue to fully dry before continuing. Create a hand grip with your thumbtack. Take your thumbtack and push it into your pencil on the side opposite your clothespin. The nub of the thumbtack should give you just enough to wrap a finger around to help you grip your pencil peashooter. Test fire your pencil peashooter. Take your rubber band and pull it so that one end catches on the eraser end of your pencil and pull the opposite between the clip end of your clothespin. Aim your weapon and open your clothespin to release and fire your rubber band. Find a suitable piece of wood for the stock and barrel. The stock and barrel of your rubber band rifle should be made of a material soft enough that you can cut a groove into it. Wood is likely the cheapest and most readily available option, though bamboo and similar materials can also make an effective stock. Your stock should be about two feet (60 cm) in length. You can find suitable wood for your stock from a sturdy tree branch, a hardware store, or a lumber yard. Spare handles for tools, frequently sold at hardware stores, are an excellent option to consider. Collect the rest of your rubber band rifle parts. In addition to your stock and barrel, you'll need a release along with something to attach your rubber band release to your gun. All in all, you'll need: Clothespin (for release) Pencil Glue (wood glue, superglue, etc.) Knife Rubber band Attach a clothespin to your stock to act as your release. The best placement for your clothespin depends on the kind of rifle you intend on making. A high powered rubber band rifle can be made by attaching your clothespin farther back on the stock. Normal rifles should have the clothespin attached ⅔ of the way from the front toward the back of your stock. To attach your clothespin: Mark your stock with a pencil or knife at the location you plan on attaching your clothespin. Use a glue, like wood glue, superglue, or hot glue, to attach your clothespin to your stock. Allow sufficient time for your glue to fully dry. Note: the farther back you put your clothespin, the more pressure your rubber band will exert on the pin. If you place your pin too far back, your clothespin might not be strong enough to hold your rubber band in place. Notch your stock at the front of the barrel. Use a knife or a cutting tool, like a small woodworking saw, to cut a notch in the front of your stock where your barrel comes to an end. This will be where you load your rubber band. Arm your rubber band rifle with ammunition. Take a rubber band and put one end of it into the notched part of your stock at the tip of the barrel. Then pull your rubber band back, stretching it all the way to the clothespin. Open your clothespin and: Hold your rubber band so that it is behind the teeth of your clothespin. Close your clothespin to trap the rubber band on the inside of the clothespin. Test tension and sturdiness. Using your finger, push and pull lightly on your armed rubber band to make sure the notch you have cut is deep enough. Then, inspect your clothespin to ensure it is sturdy enough to withstand the tension of your rubber band. If the band slips free easily, you may want to use your cutting tool to cut your notch a little deeper. If your clothespin does not seem sturdy enough, you may want to apply some more glue or an additional fastener, like duct tape. Test fire your new rubber band rifle. Aim your rifle by looking down stock, using the clothespin and end of the barrel to sight your target. When, looking down the barrel of your rubber band rifle, you see your target right above both your clothespin and the tip of your barrel, down on the clothespin to release the rubber band. At maximum tension, the rubber band should fire about 15 to 20 yards (13.7 to 18.3 m). Find a suitable piece of wood. To make yourself a more realistic rifle, you'll need a board about three feet (90 cm) long and six inches (15 cm) wide. You should be able to purchase a board for this purpose from your local hardware store or lumber yard. Get your other rifle making supplies. In addition to the wood that you will form into the main body of your rubber band rifle, you will also need ammunition and supplies to help you cut your wood into the shape of your gun. For this project you should have: Pencil/felt tip marker Woodworking saw (or a common saw) Jig saw (optional) Duct tape (or thin leather strip) Knife Rubber bands Draw the outline of your rifle on your board. Using a pencil or felt tip marker, draw a general outline of a rifle. Feel free to do this freehand, though you may want to use an image from online to model your outline. Generally, your rifle should have: A long, thin barrel A rectangular sight atop the beginning of the barrel. A stock. A trigger. Cut out the outline of your rifle. Use a woodworking saw for greater precision, or a common saw if that is unavailable, and cut along the outside of the outline you drew on your board. Do this until the outline is completely cut free. Notch the front of your barrel. Take a jig saw and make a triangular notch in the front of your wooden gun cutout. The notch should form a wedge pointing inward on the barrel and should be thick enough to accommodate a rubber band. In the event you don't have a jig saw, a normal saw or knife should be able to sufficiently notch the front of your barrel. Attach your trigger. Take a piece of duct tape or a thin strip of leather folded in half and nail or staple it onto the center of the top of where the stock meets the barrel. You will use this strip like a "trigger," where by pulling the strip free you can fire your rubber band. Notch the top of your barrel beneath where your strip covers. Using a saw or knife, cut a notch into the top of your barrel beneath where you have attached your trigger strip. Your notch should be deep and thick enough to serve as a catch for your rubber band. Arm your weapon. Tuck your duct tape or leather strip into the notch you have made on the top of your barrel. Now your gun is ready to be armed with a rubber band. Place one end of your rubber band in the notch you have made at the end of your barrel and the other end over your strip and into the notch atop your barrel. Pull your strip free to release your rubber band. Pull backwards on your strip of duct to release your rubber band, causing it to fire down the length of your barrel. Take aim by: Look down the barrel of your gun with your dominant (most likely your right) eye. Align the top of your barrel where the notch is with the tip of your barrel as closely as you are able. Adjust your gun until you see your target directly above both your notch and tip of the barrel. Release your rubber band. Find a flat, relatively thin piece of wood. A regular board, one foot (30 cm) long and six inches (15 cm) wide, should work well for your pistol. Wood in these dimensions can be purchased at most hardware stores or lumber yards. Pull together your pistol production parts. There are some tools you should have on had so that you can fashion the piece of would you found into a really cool rubber band pistol. To make your pistol, you'll need: Pencil (or felt tipped marker) Saw Knife Rubber bands Nails (thin kind) Hammer Draw your pistol on the wood as a guide. With a pencil or felt tipped marker, draw the desired outline of your pistol on your piece of wood. You may want to refer to an online picture of a pistol to serve as a model for your drawing. Cut your pistol outline free from the board. Using a normal saw, follow the pistol outline you drew on your board to guide your cutting. Once you cut your pistol free, take some sandpaper and smooth any jagged edges. Create a rubber band catch on top of your barrel with a clothespin. Do this by using a hammer to pound a small nail through the part of your clothespin that will lie flat against the barrel of your gun. A second nail can be added to improve the stability of your clothespin. Cut a notch in the front of the barrel. Use a regular saw or knife to cut a V-shaped notch into the front end of the barrel of your pistol. The resulting notch you make should be deep and wide enough to serve as a catch for your rubber band. Load your pistol with a rubber band. Do this by catching one end of your rubber in the notch you made at the front of the barrel and pulling it into the jaws of the clothespin. While the clothespin is closed, the pistol will be loaded with a rubber band. To fire, open the clothespin and shoot the rubber band. Find or purchase a piece of wood. You'll need a board that is at least one foot (30 cm) long, six inches long (15 cm), and of decent thickness. Thicker wood will result in a sturdier gun. Wood can be bought at most local hardware stores or lumber yards. Accumulate the necessary parts for machine gun making. The wooden board that you now have will eventually turn into the stock and barrel of your rubber band machine gun. But to transform that wood into your legendary rapid-shooter, you'll need: Pencil (or felt tipped marker) Saw Knife Rubber bands String Thumbtack Draw the outline of your machine gun on the board. Use a pencil or felt tip marker and sketch the outline of your machine gun. You may want to look up some images on line to serve as an example for your outline. Cut your outline free and sand all rough edges. Using a normal wood saw, cut along the outline you have drawn on your wood until your machine gun is free from the board. Once it is free, you can take sand paper and rub it against the edges of your wooden gun until it is smooth to the touch. Notch the barrel of your gun, tip to tip. Cut a notch with your knife that runs down the barrel of your wooden gun, starting where your barrel meets the stock and running along the top side. This will be the track for your pull-release string. Cut side to side notches in the top of your barrel. Starting where the stock of your gun meets the barrel, cut as many horizontal notches with your knife as you desire. Leave about one inch (2.5 cm) between your horizontal notches, and make sure your tip to tip notch running along the top of your barrel crosses all of your horizontal notches. Attach your pull-release string. Use a tack to pin your string to the very front of the barrel of your wooden gun. Lay your pull-release string atop the barrel of your gun, guiding it with your fingers so that it lays in the tip to tip track. Arm your machine gun with rubber bands. Each of the horizontal notches you cut into your barrel will be a catch on which you can string your rubber band. Take one end of your rubber band and catch it on the front of your wooden gun, and pull it back until you can hook it in place onto a horizontal notch. Pull the string to release your rubber bands. By pulling on the release string quickly, you'll knock the rubber bands free one after another, creating a rapid fire, machine-gun effect. You might also think of pulling the string slowly to create a more sustained effect. Gather your supplies. Your rubber band special ops sniper rifle is made with only the strongest yardstick or meter stick. A flimsy meter stick might not be able to withstand the tension of your rubber band rounds. You'll need: Yardstick/meter stick Rubber bands Paperclips Make rounds. Do this by taking two rubber bands and tying both together. To complete your round, you'll need to string a paperclip onto one of the conjoined rubber bands. Repeat this process until you have around 10 rounds of ammunition. Arm your weapon. Hold your rubber band round by the paper clip and catch the opposite end on the tip of your meter stick. Then stretch the rubber band along the entire length of your meter stick, holding the meter stick by supporting the underside of it. Release your paper clip to fire the round. Now that your rubber band round is strung tensely along the entire length of your meter stick, letting go of your paper clip will launch the rubber bands. Due to the extreme tension and the attached paper clip, this round should not be aimed at living creatures, as it could do harm. | Grab your pencil peashooter components. Attach your clothespin catch to your pencil. Create a hand grip with your thumbtack. Test fire your pencil peashooter. Find a suitable piece of wood for the stock and barrel. Collect the rest of your rubber band rifle parts. Attach a clothespin to your stock to act as your release. Notch your stock at the front of the barrel. Arm your rubber band rifle with ammunition. Test tension and sturdiness. Test fire your new rubber band rifle. Find a suitable piece of wood. Get your other rifle making supplies. Draw the outline of your rifle on your board. Cut out the outline of your rifle. Notch the front of your barrel. Attach your trigger. Notch the top of your barrel beneath where your strip covers. Arm your weapon. Pull your strip free to release your rubber band. Find a flat, relatively thin piece of wood. Pull together your pistol production parts. Draw your pistol on the wood as a guide. Cut your pistol outline free from the board. Create a rubber band catch on top of your barrel with a clothespin. Cut a notch in the front of the barrel. Load your pistol with a rubber band. Find or purchase a piece of wood. Accumulate the necessary parts for machine gun making. Draw the outline of your machine gun on the board. Cut your outline free and sand all rough edges. Notch the barrel of your gun, tip to tip. Cut side to side notches in the top of your barrel. Attach your pull-release string. Arm your machine gun with rubber bands. Pull the string to release your rubber bands. Gather your supplies. Make rounds. Arm your weapon. Release your paper clip to fire the round. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Remove-a-Lingering-Curry-Odor | How to Remove a Lingering Curry Odor | To remove a lingering curry odor, try making a cleaning spray with white vinegar. First, combine 1 cup of water and 2 tablespoons of white vinegar in a spray bottle. Spray everything in the room, including the walls, cabinets, carpet, ceiling, grease traps, the hood of the stove, and drapes. Pay extra attention and spray more in areas where grease has built up and where the smell seems to be coming from. If the smell doesn't go away immediately, spray the solution all over the room once a week to allow the microbes to break down the odor-trapping grease. | Wash your face and hands with lemon or lime. While in the shower, rub a piece of lemon or lime over the skin that most likely has deposits of vapors from cooking such as hands, face, and arms. The acidity in lime will help to break down the essential oils that cause the lingering curry smell. Finish by washing with soap and water as usual. Be sure to avoid open cuts or wounds on the skin as this can cause painful stinging or burning. Avoid putting on any of the same clothing articles that were used while cooking, for instance a hat or sweater. Use air freshening products. You can try using air diffusers, air deodorizing sprays, plug-ins, or scented candles. Also of great use are air fresheners that allow you to spray on fabrics. Spray all items that are in the cooking vicinity until damp, such as the carpet, upholstery, drapes or walls. A combination of many products will work well. Be sure to carefully read instructions on the packaging label to ensure proper use. Boil flowers or leaves that emit a pleasant fragrance. Put two cups of water in a pot on the stove and bring it to a boil. Add fragrant materials such as Kewra (Screwpine) leaves or vanilla beans/extract, and turn the heat down to a simmer. Allow it to simmer for at least one hour. The smell emitted will mask the lingering curry odor. Screwpine leaves are also known as pandan leaves and can be purchased at the local Asian grocer or specialty grocery store. There are no set specifications on how much screwpine or vanilla you should add. Try a few sprigs to begin with and add as needed. You can also try boiling other fragrant ingredients you have to get rid of the smell, such as 3 cups (720 mL) of white vinegar, 1 cup (240 mL) of water, and 6 cinnamon sticks. Allow fresh air into your home. Open the windows for a day or two to allow fresh air to permeate through the residence. You may also need to replace filters in your heating or cooling systems so they don't circulate odorous air. Mix vinegar and water to absorb odors. Combine one cup water and two tablespoons of white vinegar in a spray bottle. Vinegar is a natural home remedy that has been known to deodorize a room. It's not likely to be a long-term fix, but you can also put bowls of vinegar around your home to absorb odors. Combine one part water to one part live microbial agent in a spray bottle. You can purchase the microbial agent online or at your local hardware store. Microbial agents have live bacteria that eat odor-causing microorganisms and claim to remove harsh odors from your home. Spray your entire residence with the formula of your choice. Whether using vinegar or a microbial solution, spray everything including walls, cabinets, the carpet, the ceiling, grease traps, and draperies. Pay especially close attention to areas of built-up grease where the odor tends to permeate. Before spraying, test for color fastness, or make sure a fabric will retain its color. Spray a small amount of mixture on an inconspicuous area of fabric. Wait a few minutes and blot with a napkin. Note any changes to the fabric, or any color rubbing off onto the napkin. Avoid spraying around electronics and electrical outlets. Check your filter's instructions to see if they are washable. They may be able to be washed in the solution while others will need to be washed in soap and water. Still, others may need to be replaced and can be purchased at your local hardware store. Use the microbial solution to clean drains in your home. Drain vents can often clog, causing odors to continue to saturate your residence. The microbial agents will help to clear the plumbing and eliminate odors. Follow instructions on the bottle's label regarding how much to pour and how often. Repeat this process once a week. If the smell doesn't go away immediately spray your solution and air out your home once a week. This allows the microbes to remain alive and to continue to break down the odor-trapping grease. If the smell still remains after 4 cycles, try combining with other odor-removal methods. Sprinkle baking soda on your carpet and let it sit overnight. Baking soda absorbs odors, so sprinkle some over your carpet. Use just enough to create a light dusting. Then, leave the baking soda in place overnight. Vacuum it up the following morning. Make sure to keep pets and small children off of the carpets while the baking soda sits. Try steam cleaning your carpet and upholstery. There are professional carpet cleaners who will come to your home and steam clean carpet and upholstery, or you can purchase or rent steam cleaning machines to do the job yourself. Stores offer cleaning solutions that are specifically formulated for odor removal, or you can try other solutions such as Oxyclean, vinegar or bleach. Do not steam clean for at least a month if you are using a microbial solution. Use the solution for 4 cycles before steam cleaning. Avoid using regular vacuums and cleaners such as baking soda or carpet shampoos because it doesn't clean down to the carpet pads where odors could be trapped. Professional carpet cleaning costs vary greatly because it depends on the size of the home and how many rooms you will be cleaning. Overall, you can expect to pay an average of $51 per room. Some companies may also charge by the square foot. Steam cleaner rentals usually have an hourly minimum for rental, but also allow you to rent per day. You can find the cleaner and products at your local hardware store. Opt for an ozone generator to destroy molecules. Ozone (O3) is a reactive particle which chemically attracts and reacts with molecules in the air and on surfaces. The oxygen in ozone chemically changes the structure of the molecule to eliminate the odor. You can purchase ozone generators online or at your local hardware store for anywhere from a couple hundred dollars to a couple thousand dollars. Instructions usually suggest to let the generator run for an hour in a closed room, but you can allow it to run for 3-4 hours. Ozone is effective in removing odors because as a gas, it is able to penetrate anywhere that air can go: walls, ceilings, vents, carpets, upholstery fibers and more. You can read online consumer reviews that discuss various features of ozone generators such as cost, size, noise, durability, and effectiveness. Ozone generators are typically purchased for places where ozone is needed, such as places where there is gaseous pollution (like the smell of curry). They should not be used to remove allergens, as they have been known to cause greater health issues. Opt for a photocatalytic air purifying process. Contact a company that has machines that use an Advanced Photocatalytic Oxidation (APO) process. This process utilizes air and water to create vaporized hydrogen peroxide, and reactive hydroxyl particles. This process cleans both air and surfaces in a home. Not only does it clean, but it breaks down compounds which hold odors. Most homes can be completed in 12 hours or less and clients, furniture, clothing, and rugs can remain in the home. You can also purchase photocatalytic air purifiers that use the same technology to zap odor-causing particles. Purifiers and filters can be found online for about $200. Repaint your walls. Use turpentine to break down grease from kitchen surfaces. Then, strip the current paint off your walls by grinding, applying heat, or using chemicals. Next, apply an odor blocking and sealing primer which will both keep current odors from seeping out, and keep new odors from penetrating the paint. Lastly, choose your paint and mix in additives that have been known to block odors such as vanilla or chemical additives. To remove grease, mix equal parts turpentine, linseed oil, and white vinegar, and use a light cloth to wipe the grease off kitchen surfaces. There is no need to rinse when done. Simply allow to dry and buff with a cloth. Turpentine can often have a noxious smell so be sure to use in a well-ventilated area, and use rubber gloves and a mask to protect yourself, and line your work area with cloth or cardboard. When mixing additives to your paint, add two tablespoons of vanilla extract to every gallon of paint. Or, you can mix in odorless additives (found at your local hardware or paint store) that actually remove odors, as opposed to just blocking them. | Wash your face and hands with lemon or lime. Use air freshening products. Boil flowers or leaves that emit a pleasant fragrance. Allow fresh air into your home. Mix vinegar and water to absorb odors. Combine one part water to one part live microbial agent in a spray bottle. Spray your entire residence with the formula of your choice. Use the microbial solution to clean drains in your home. Repeat this process once a week. Sprinkle baking soda on your carpet and let it sit overnight. Try steam cleaning your carpet and upholstery. Opt for an ozone generator to destroy molecules. Opt for a photocatalytic air purifying process. Repaint your walls. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Cage-Tomatoes | How to Cage Tomatoes | To cage tomatoes, start by picking a cage that is at least 5 feet tall and 12-30 inches in diameter. Next, place the cage directly over one tomato plant, pushing it down until the stakes are fully buried and the cage feels sturdy. If you have more than one tomato plant, go ahead and cage them all at the same time. After all of the cages are in place, tie young, low-hanging vines to the cages with floss or rubber bands. Then, once your tomatoes are caged, trim any dying leaves a few times a week so the plant has energy for the fruit. | Use metal tomato cages if you don't have a lot of space in your garden. Metal cages are thin and flexible, so you can squeeze them into a smaller space. This is especially helpful if your tomato plants are planted close together. Get tomato cages that are at least 5 feet (1.5 meters) tall. 5-foot cages will support most tomato varieties. If you're growing a shorter tomato variety, like Santiam or Siberia, you can choose a shorter cage. Choose a cage between 12-30 inches (30.5-76 cm) in diameter. Get a cage with a larger diameter if you're growing a large variety of tomato. Make your own tomato cages using concrete reinforcement wire. You can find some at your local hardware store. Make sure you can fit your hand through the openings in the wire so you're able to harvest the tomatoes. Cut 3 feet (.9 meters) of wire for every 1 foot (.3 meters) in diameter you want each cage to be. Attach each end of the wire to a stake and stake the cage in the ground around one of your tomato plants. Get one cage for each tomato plant in the garden. Each tomato plant should have its own cage to grow in. Place a cage directly over one of the tomato plants. Whether the plant is potted or in the ground, you want it to be in the center of the cage. The walls of the cage should be close to the plant; it's normal if some of the plant's vines and leaves extend outside of the cage. Avoid damaging the plants' roots by caging them immediately after transplanting them. Push down on the cage so the stakes at the bottom go into the ground. Keep pushing down until all of the stakes are fully buried in the soil. If you're having trouble getting the cage to push down, try lightly pounding it down with a mallet or hammer. Check to see if the cage is sturdy. Put your hand on the cage and gently push and pull on it a little bit. If it feels like the wind could pull it out of the ground, attach a couple stakes to the bottom of the cage and pound them into the soil for extra support. Attach the stakes to the outside of the cage so they don't damage the roots when you push them into the soil. Cage the rest of the tomato plants in the garden. Repeat the same process, making sure all of the cages are firmly staked in the ground. If you're planting and caging new tomato plants, try to place them at least 4 feet (1.2 meters) apart. Tie young, low-hanging vines on the plants to the tomato cages. This will encourage the tomato plants to grow upward in their cages. You can use something like floss or rubber bands to tie the vines to the cage. If you're tying the vines, make sure they're not too tight or you could injure the plant. Trim off any dying leaves to conserve energy for the fruit. Pull the leaves off with your hands or use gardening shears. Trim the plants a couple times a week or whenever you notice wilting leaves. Lift up a tomato cage if it falls and tie it to stakes to support the plant. Pound three or four stakes into the ground around the base of the fallen plant, taking care not to hammer the stakes into the plants roots. Loop garden twine or wire through the tomato cage and tie it to the stakes until the cage is supported. Cut down the tomato plants in the fall once they die. You can tell the tomato plants are dead once they turn brown and yellow and begin to wilt. Use shears to cut any dead vines tangled around the cage. The tomato cages should remain on the plants until you are done harvesting. Pull the cages out of the ground and store them until next year. Store the cages indoors where they won't be damaged by the elements. Reuse the cages next year to grow more tomato plants. | Use metal tomato cages if you don't have a lot of space in your garden. Get tomato cages that are at least 5 feet (1.5 meters) tall. Choose a cage between 12-30 inches (30.5-76 cm) in diameter. Make your own tomato cages using concrete reinforcement wire. Get one cage for each tomato plant in the garden. Place a cage directly over one of the tomato plants. Push down on the cage so the stakes at the bottom go into the ground. Check to see if the cage is sturdy. Cage the rest of the tomato plants in the garden. Tie young, low-hanging vines on the plants to the tomato cages. Trim off any dying leaves to conserve energy for the fruit. Lift up a tomato cage if it falls and tie it to stakes to support the plant. Cut down the tomato plants in the fall once they die. Pull the cages out of the ground and store them until next year. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Protect-Yourself-from-the-Sun | How to Protect Yourself from the Sun | While you're out enjoying the sun, it's important to protect yourself with the right clothing and sunscreen. Use sunscreen of at least 30 SPF to avoid getting sunburn. Apply it 20 minutes before you leave and then every 2 hours that you're out in the sun. Wear a wide-brimmed hat to protect your head, ears, and neck, and stick to loose, long-sleeved clothing to cover your skin. Don't forget to take your sunglasses to help block harmful rays from your eyes. When it's really sunny outside, stay in the shade or indoors during 10am and 4pm when you're most likely to get sunburnt or sunstroke. | Choose a sunscreen with a safe SPF. You should wear sunscreen each time you go out during the day, even when it's overcast. Make sure you select a sunscreen with a strong enough sun protection factor (SPF) to protect you from UV rays. Go for a sunscreen of at least SPF 30. The SPF should be written somewhere on the sunscreen bottle. If you have cancer, or pre-cancer, get a sunscreen with SPF 45 or higher. Look for the words "broad spectrum" on the bottle. This assures you the sunscreen protects you from UVA rays in addition to UVB rays. Apply sunscreen 20 to 30 minutes before leaving your home. Do this each time you leave your house during the daytime when the sun is out. This is especially important if you'll be exposed to the sun for more than 30 minutes. If you have trouble remembering to apply sunscreen, try leaving yourself a note on the door before going out. Reapply sunscreen every 2 hours. Keep track of how long you've been outside. You should make the effort to reapply sunscreen every 2 hours so it stays effective. If you're inside all day, and go back out before the sun sets, you should also reapply sunscreen. If you've been swimming, you may want to reapply sunscreen after getting out of the water even if two hours have not yet passed. Apply the correct amount. Many people do not realize how much sunscreen you actually need for adequate protection. You need at least 45 milliliters (1.5 fl oz) of sunscreen to cover all exposed skin on your body. This is about as much sunscreen as could fit in an average shot glass. Smooth sunscreen over rather than rubbing it. Make sure to cover any skin that will be exposed, including the skin on your back. Have someone else help you apply sunscreen if there's any spot you can't reach. Test how well your clothing protects against the sun. When you're going out in the sun, especially for a long day, you should wear clothing that will block out harmful UV rays. A good way to test your clothing is to place your hand inside a garment before putting it on. Shine a light on the clothing. If you can see your hand clearly through the garment, this outfit offers little protection. You should either choose a different outfit or apply sunscreen on the area the item covers. Wear sunglasses. Sunglasses should be worn year-round, and not just in the summer. Make sure to check the label of a pair of sunglasses before you buy it. Any sunglasses you wear should block 99 to 100% of UVA and UVB light. If you have a purse your backpack you carry, try storing your sunglasses in there. This way, you may be more likely to remember to throw them on before leaving your home. Wear a hat with at least a 3-inch brim. This will cover areas like your scalp, where it is difficult to safely apply sunscreen. The tops of your ears, your back, and your neck will be protected by the right hat. As long as the brim is at least 3 inches (7.6 cm), you should be protected from the sun. Wear clothing that covers more skin. You should go for long-sleeved shirts and longer pants to protect yourself from the sun. Some clothing actually comes with ultraviolet protection and is marked with an ultraviolet protection factor (UPF). A UPF of at least 50 only allows one-fiftieth of UVB rays to reach your skin. During warmer months, longer clothing may be uncomfortable. During these months, be extra vigilant about applying sunscreen to any exposed areas of your body. Seek shade between 10 AM and 4 PM. During these hours, the sun is at its peak. You're most likely to get skin damage during this time of day. If you're going to be out in the sun, seek shade from trees, patios, and other objects whenever possible. You may want to limit your exposure to the sun during these hours, especially if you have sensitive skin. Take extra precautions near water, snow, and sand. Sun is sometimes reflected off of water, snow, and sand. This means that, even in the winter, sunscreen and sun protection is important. Your chance of sunburn increases near snow, water, and sand. Make sure to take extra precautions around these terrains. Always wear sunscreen, sunglasses, and wear clothing that covers your body. Protect yourself from the sun indoors and in cars. The sun can actually cause damage, even if you're inside. Transparent window film screens can be installed to block out the sun's rays. You should also wear sunscreen, even when riding in your car or sitting by a window in your house. Remember, film screens only provide protection when windows are closed. If you have a sunroof, avoid using it. You should also avoid driving with the roof down if you have a convertible. Sun can also penetrate the windows in your home, leaving you exposed to UVA rays. It's a good idea to draw your blinds during peak hours or stay away from the windows. You can also wear sunscreen in your home. | Choose a sunscreen with a safe SPF. Apply sunscreen 20 to 30 minutes before leaving your home. Reapply sunscreen every 2 hours. Apply the correct amount. Test how well your clothing protects against the sun. Wear sunglasses. Wear a hat with at least a 3-inch brim. Wear clothing that covers more skin. Seek shade between 10 AM and 4 PM. Take extra precautions near water, snow, and sand. Protect yourself from the sun indoors and in cars. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Pit-Olives | How to Pit Olives | To pit olives, start by putting the olives on a flat surface. Then, hold the blade of a knife flat on top of one of the olives. Next, gently press down on the blade of the knife until the pit pops out. If the pit doesn't pop out all the way, pull it the rest of the way out with your fingers. Repeat with the rest of the olives and you're done. | Find a large chef knife. If you don't have a chef knife you can use any other object with a hard flat surface. Put the olive on a chopping board to avoid creating a mess on your countertop. Place the flat surface of the chef knife on top of the olive and press down. You will feel the pit inside the olive start to pop out. Continue to press down on the olive and gently pull the knife towards you. This will cause the olive to roll and help in squeezing the pit out. Maneuver the pit out of the olive with your fingers if it still hasn't popped out. Try to take out the pit in 1 piece while causing the least damage to the fruit. Purchase an olive pitter if you find pitting with a chef knife too difficult or time-consuming. This kitchen tool can pit olives using the following procedure. Place the olive securely inside the small bowl at the end of the olive pitter. Squeeze on the handles at the other end. This punches a small hole at the end of the olive. Continue to squeeze the handles until the pit is forced out of the punched hole and drops to the bottom of the bowl. Release the handle to drop the loose fruit into a separate bowl and discard the pit that is left behind. Consider using an olive-pitting machine if you need to pit olives quickly and frequently. These machines can be bulky and expensive and are usually only used by restaurants and food suppliers. Some machines used for olive pitting can pit over 2,000 olives per minute. | Find a large chef knife. Put the olive on a chopping board to avoid creating a mess on your countertop. Place the flat surface of the chef knife on top of the olive and press down. Continue to press down on the olive and gently pull the knife towards you. Maneuver the pit out of the olive with your fingers if it still hasn't popped out. Purchase an olive pitter if you find pitting with a chef knife too difficult or time-consuming. Consider using an olive-pitting machine if you need to pit olives quickly and frequently. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Apologize-to-a-Cat | How to Apologize to a Cat | To apologize to a cat, wait until it calms down and approach the cat slowly. Next, speak to the kitty in a soft, soothing tone and gently pet it in a few of its favorite spots, like behind the ears and under the chin. It may also help to offer a few tasty treats during your apology. Leaving treats in your kitty's food bowl or providing a special meal as a peace offering can also work wonders. Alternatively, if your cat is interested in toys and catnip, try offering it a brand new toy or some fresh catnip. | Choose a good time to apologize. If your cat is visibly angry, you will need to give her some time before you try to approach her and apologize; approaching too soon may result in getting scratched. Try not to wait too long to apologize, however; instead, approach the cat as soon as she appears calmer. You can also approach a frightened cat, but do so with caution. Refer to the section in this article on reading your cat's body language to learn how to determine your cat's mood. If your cat keeps running away from you, consider leaving behind a small treat in a place she can find. This will let her know that you are sorry and still care about her. A frightened cat should be approached with care. Always give a frightened cat room to escape. She may actually need comfort and reassurance, especially if there was a loud, sudden sound. At the same time, however, she may want to be alone, which is why leaving an escape route is so important. A frightened, cornered cat may quickly turn aggressive. Determine the offense. What did you do to make your cat so mad at you? Did you make fun of her? Step on her tail? Or did you take her spot on the couch? Knowing what you did wrong will help you decide how to approach your cat. It will also help you decide how to go about apologizing to him or her. Here are some examples of what you might have done to offend your cat and what you could do to show you're sorry: If you offended your cat by making fun of her, you will probably have to offer some treats and praise. If you accidentally stepped on your cat's tail or startled her by dropping a pot, a simple cuddle may be all that is needed. If you took your cat's favorite spot on the couch, consider vacating the spot and giving your cat a treat. Walk slowly to your cat. If your cat runs away from you, she may be still be angry, upset, or frightened. Do not chase after your cat. Instead, try again a few minutes later. This will reassure your cat that you won't do anything to further harm or annoy her. Having a cat treat ready may also reassure your cat. Talk to your cat. Tell her "I'm sorry." You may even use your cat's name. Make sure that you are using a soft, calm voice, with a slightly higher pitch than usual. Your cat may not necessarily understand your words, but she will understand your tone. Do not use a loud, shrill voice; cats do have sensitive hearing and you will only annoy your cat. Consider blinking slowly. A trusting cat will blink slowly. You can show your cat that you trust her by blinking slowly. Stroke your cat gently in her favorite spots. Make sure that you take note of your cat's mood; if your cat appears angry or upset, then do not pet her. Refer to the section in this article on reading your cat's body language to learn how to best determine your cat's mood. If you don't know where your cat likes to be petted, here are some suggestions: Scratch your cat behind the ear. An even better place would be to gently stroke the area between your cat's eye and ear. Use the tip of your finger and slowly smooth over the fine hairs there. Scratch your cat under the cheek and against the cheek. She may even forgive you for your offense and start rubbing against your hand. Scratch your cat at the base of her tail. Place your fingers on the base of your cat's tail, where the tail and back meet, and wriggle your fingers, gently stretching with your fingertips. Stroke your cat's head, back, and chest. Keep in mind, however, that not all cats enjoy being petted in these areas. Watch your cat's body language carefully for any signs of annoyance. Play with your cat. Your cat could be upset with you because you have not been spending enough time with him. If your cat is more energetic, you could consider playing with him—although most cats would enjoy swatting at a piece of string. Here are some ways you can play with your cat: Toss a piece of crumpled up cellophane or paper towards your cat. You can also use a toy mouse instead. Do not throw the toy at him, however. Instead, aim for a spot just before his paws. Dangle a piece of string in front of your cat. Jiggle it and move it slowly back and forth, towards and away from your cat. You can even try running the string across his paws. Purchase a laser pointer and point the laser on a spot on the wall or the floor. Once your cat is paying attention to the red dot, move the laser around. He may even try running after the laser. Play with your cat using a cat teaser. A cat teaser is a long, flexible stick with some feathers or string attached to one end. Some teasers also have a bell. Hold the teaser by one end and wave the decorated end near your cat's paws. Gently flick it upward—he may try to jump up to catch it. Give your cat some attention. If you have been ignoring your cat lately, you may notice that your cat has become less affectionate than usual. This means that your cat could be upset and lonely. You can apologize to your cat by spending time with him. This could be as simple as reading a book or listening to music next to your cat, or giving him a nice, long petting session. It could also mean that you have to set aside some time to play with your cat. Praise and compliment your cat. If you made fun of or laughed at your cat, you may have offended her. Offer your cat a cat treats and tell your cat how wonderful and beautiful she is. Use a soft, gentle tone. Your cat may not necessarily understand your words, but she will know that you are talking to her and saying nice things to her. Give your cat what he or she wants, within reason. Cats can get upset if they don't get what they want. Sometimes, what they want is simple and harmless—such as sitting on that fluffy pillow. Other times, what they want could be harmful, such as a portion of your dinner. Some human foods can be very bad for your cat's health. If what the cat wanted was harmless, you could relent and let your cat have it. If what your cat wanted could be dangerous, then offer your cat something else instead. If your cat wanted to sit on that fluffy pillow of the couch, let him do it. You could even pick your cat up and set it down on that spot. Give your cat a reassuring stroke or two. If your cat really wanted that milk or tuna, you should give something else instead. Milk or cream can upset a cat's stomach, and tuna can be dangerous in large amounts due to its high levels of mercury. Consider giving your cat a yummy cat treat instead. Give a treat to your cat. If you cat is in a more approachable mood, you can try giving him a treat directly. Put three to five cat treats in your hand and kneel down close to the cat. If the cat is ready to forgive you, he will come over to you and eat the treats. At this time, you may try to pet your cat behind the ear (or any other favorite spot). If your cat does not approach you, leave the treats on the floor and step away. Do not take the treats away—this will only disappoint your cat. Cat treats come in many different textures, including: soft and chewy, hard and crunchy, crunchy on the outside and soft on the inside, dried meats (sort of like jerky), and freeze-dried. You can even find dried tuna flakes in the cat treat aisle of a pet store. Cat treats also come in many different flavors, including chicken, turkey, tuna, and salmon. You can even find catnip-flavored treats. Consider getting a beneficial treat. There are also cat treats that help prevent hairballs and tarter. Not only will you be keeping your cat happy, but you will also be keeping him or her healthy. Leave a cat treat surprise for your cat. Be sure to leave it in a place you know where he will be able to find it. Here are some examples: If your cat is hiding under the bed, consider leaving the cat treat just under the bed. Do not leave the treat too far out from under the bed. This will force the cat to craw out from her or her "safe" spot, and will make him or her feel anxious. Do not reach too far under the bed, or the cat may scratch you. If your cat is really agitated, leave a treat near his food, or in his favorite spot. In fact, if you offended your cat by taking his favorite spot on the couch, you can leave the cat treat in that spot. This will let the cat know that you are sorry and that he can sit in this spot without being kicked off. Add treats to your cat's food. Take three to five cat treats and place them on top of your cat's food during feeding time. If your cat is picky and does not like treats mixed in with his food, then leave the treats in a dish next to the food. Treat your cat with some special food. Does your cat have a favorite flavor of cat food? If you feed your cat different flavors, choose his favorite one, and serve it during feeding time. Offer some dried cat nip. If your cat is too agitated, you may be able to get her to calm down with a sprinkle of cat nip on the floor. If you do not like cleaning up messes (some cats will eat the dried catnip while others will just roll around in it), then you can give him or her a catnip toy. Give your cat a toy. If your cat is interested in cat toys , you can buy a new toy and give it to her. Simply approach your cat, kneel down, hold the toy out so she can see it. You may leave the toy on the ground and back away, or you can toss the toy. This depends on how your cat likes to play with toys. Keep in mind that not every cat likes to play, especially older ones. You can make your own catnip toy by cutting a small square from fabric and putting a spoonful of dried catnip in the center. Pull the sides of the fabric upwards, bundling the catnip up inside, and secure it with a piece of string. You can also make another catnip toy by stuffing a sock with some cotton or polyester stuffing and adding a spoonful of dried catnip. Tie the sock off with some string. Take note of your cat's body language. It will tell you what sort of mood your cat is in. If your cat is too angry or upset, your apology will mean nothing to him or her and will most likely result in you getting slapped across the face. This section will show you how to read your cat's body language, so that you will know when it is safe to approach her. Watch the tail. The tail is the most expressive part of a cat's body, and is a good indicator of your cat's mood. Unlike dogs, cats do not "Wag" their tails when they are happy. Here are some more guidelines: If the tail is pointing up, with the tip slightly curled to the side, your cat is content and safe to approach. If the tail is poofed up, your cat is frightened. You may try to approach your cat to calm him down, but do so slowly, and make sure that your cat can run and hide from you. A cornered cat may quickly turn into an aggressive cat. If your cat is twitching or thumping his tail, then do not approach your cat. He is angry, and probably at you. Give your cat some time before apologizing. Observe the ears. A cat's ears are very expressive, and will also help you determine how she is feeling. In general, if the ears are up, the cat is happy, and if the ears are down, the cat is not happy. Here are some more detailed guidelines: Are the ears up and in a normal, relaxed position? If so, you can go ahead and try to apologize to your cat. If the ears are turned back, do not approach your cat. She is deeply offended and angry. Give her some time. She might be feeling scared. You can still approach your cat, but do it slowly and carefully. If your cats ears are pressed back flat against the skull, she might be feeling scared. You can still approach your cat, but do it slowly and carefully. Take note of your cat's eyes. A cat's eyes respond dramatically to changes in light, but they also change according to mood. When looking at your cat's eyes, you will also have to take the lighting into account as well as the rest of the cat's body language. Here are some guidelines: If a cat's pupil is very large, he may be afraid. It could also mean that it is just dark in the room. If a cat's pupils are narrow, he may be angry and agitated. It could also mean that the lighting is very bright. Look at the face. Are the whiskers pointing forward, teeth bared, and nose wrinkled? If so, your cat is still too angry to feel like being approached by an apologetic human. Try again later. Look at your cat's body and fur. Is the fur standing on end? If so, your cat may be frightened or agitated. Is your cat's fur flat against him or her? This means that your cat may be more relaxed; look at your cat's body for other clues to his or her mood, however. Take note of the claws. If the claws are extended or tensed, use extreme caution. Cats are fast, and your cat may be preparing to strike. | Choose a good time to apologize. Determine the offense. Walk slowly to your cat. Talk to your cat. Stroke your cat gently in her favorite spots. Play with your cat. Give your cat some attention. Praise and compliment your cat. Give your cat what he or she wants, within reason. Give a treat to your cat. Leave a cat treat surprise for your cat. Add treats to your cat's food. Treat your cat with some special food. Offer some dried cat nip. Give your cat a toy. Take note of your cat's body language. Watch the tail. Observe the ears. Take note of your cat's eyes. Look at the face. Look at your cat's body and fur. Take note of the claws. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Care-for-a-Seahorse | How to Care for a Seahorse | To care for a seahorse, feed it about 50 frozen krill or brine shrimp twice a day, and remove any leftover food to prevent toxins from forming in the water. You can also purchase live diets for your seahorse from your local aquarium store to boost its nutrition. Additionally, check the water filters daily to make sure they're not clogged or dirty. Once a week, wipe down the tank walls and replace 20 percent of the water to avoid unpleasant smells and keep your seahorse from getting sick. | Purchase a tank. Buy a new or refurbished tank for your seahorses because it can be difficult to add them to established aquarium. Keep in mind that seahorses are vertically orientated, so opt for a tank that is at least 18” tall. Calculate approximately 20 gallons of water per seahorse. Wash any tanks you get before introducing your seahorses into them. Get the biggest tank you can afford so your seahorses can flourish. Consider a second hand tank if you're trying to save money. Figure in sand beds and other aquarium features when calculating size. For example, a 20-inch (50cm) tank with a 6-inch (15cm) sand bed only offers your seahorse 14-inches (35cm) of usable height. Place the tank in a shady and cool area. Seahorses prefer spaces that are not as light or warm as other fish. Place the seahorse tank in a location that is not exposed to extreme heat or direct sunlight and can maintain a tank temperature of 74 to 76 degrees Fahrenheit (21 to 25 Celsius). This can ensure the health and happiness of your seahorse. Place the tank in a spot that is either air-conditioned or in a cool part of your home. Add substrate. Use small crushed coral or sand to line the bottom of your tank. The substrate should be about 2-2.5 inches (5-6.5cm) in height, which is about 10 pounds (4.5kg) of substrate. This not only decorates the tank, but also provides surfaces on which you can hook hitching posts for the seahorses. Avoid putting too much substrate in your tank. This can cause food to fall into the substrate and create hydrogen sulfite, which is toxic to seahorses. Fill the tank with saltwater. Mix saltwater for your tank using fresh, clean, and dechlorinated tap water with a sea salt mix. Place your fresh water in a storage bucket and add water purifier to dechlorinate it. Wait two hours and add aquarium salts per the package instructions. Then pour into your tank. Filter the water. Add one large or several small filters to the water. Make sure the water will turn over the entire water volume 3-4 times per hour. This can ensure the health of your seahorses, which can produce a considerable amount of waste. Get a filter with a lower water flow. Seahorses can be sensitive to water flow because they are relatively weak swimmers. Decorate your tank. Choose a selection of real and faux items to decorate the tank. These can give your seahorse ideal places to rest and hide. Use any of the following to spruce up your tank and help keep your seahorse happy and healthy: Rock Coral Plants Gorgonias Macro algae Feed your seahorses twice per day. Give your seahorses a selection of frozen Mysida shrimp, small krill and brine shrimp twice each day. Place about 50 krill or shrimp per seahorse in the tank at each feeding. Siphon off anything the seahorse doesn't eat. This can ensure your seahorse gets proper nutrition. It also ensure that old food doesn't create toxic hydrogen sulfite. Ask if a local aquarium dealer has live diets available for seahorses. Give this to your seahorse occasionally to boost their nutrition. Introduce tank mates with caution. Consider keeping your seahorse tank only for your seahorse or other seahorses. Add other types of tank mates with care. Many other species are not ideal mates for seahorses because they may consume your seahorse's food. Some may even make your seahorse the meal. The following tank mates may cohabitate best with your seahorse: Snails Limpets Goby Blenny Clownfish Tangs Observe healthy traits. Check in on the health and vitality of your seahorses every day. Look for signs of its health during feedings. This can alert you to potential issues so you can treat them quickly. The following traits are signs of a healthy seahorse: Active, moving around Bright active eyes that swivel around searching for food Clear fins Full, round belly Watch for disease. Just as it's important to observe signs of health, it's vital to notice any potential symptoms of disease. This can ensure you get prompt care and treatment for your seahorse. Symptoms of disease in seahorses includes: Cloudy eyes Little eye movement White, grey or inflamed growths Heavy breathing, panting or coughing Bloating Seek veterinary care. Consult a vet if your seahorse has any signs of disease. They can diagnose the problem and provide proper treatment. This may include popping air bubbles, prescribing medication or giving the seahorse an antibiotic. Prompt veterinary care can ensure the health of your seahorse and tank mates. Let the vet know what specific symptoms your seahorse has, including when they started and what you've done to care for your pet. Invest in a “cleaning crew. ” Introduce tank mates to your seahorse that have a dual purpose: company and cleaning. Certain species of marine life can help maintain the tank's cleanliness from day to day. The best and safest cleaning crew members for your seahorse's tank include: Brittle or serpent star Lettuce nudibranch Sea cucumbers Sea hares Peppermint or coral banded shrimp Check the filters daily. Sea horses are sensitive to their water flow and environment. Make sure that the tank filters and working properly at least one a day. Remove and either clean or replace any filters that are clogged, dirty, or not functioning properly. This can keep your seahorse healthy by removing excess food, decaying organic matter, free-floating particulate, toxic chemicals, and waste products from the water. Measure the water temperature every day. Place an aquarium thermometer inside tank. Check the water temperature every day during one of the feedings. The temperature should be between 74 and 76 degrees Fahrenheit (23-24 degrees Celsius). This can prevent reduce possible odors and ensure the health of your seahorse. Clean the tank weekly. Fresh and clean water is important to maintaining the health of your seahorse. Replace 10-20% of the water once every week. Wipe down the tank walls and any decorations. Replacing the water regularly can prevent unpleasant odors and maintain the health of your seahorse. | Purchase a tank. Place the tank in a shady and cool area. Add substrate. Fill the tank with saltwater. Filter the water. Decorate your tank. Feed your seahorses twice per day. Introduce tank mates with caution. Observe healthy traits. Watch for disease. Seek veterinary care. Invest in a “cleaning crew. Check the filters daily. Measure the water temperature every day. Clean the tank weekly. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Make-Dry-Shampoo | How to Make Dry Shampoo | To make a simple dry shampoo, wash out a small salt or cheese shaker and pour in 1/4 cup (28 g) of cornstarch and 1 tbsp (6 g) of baking soda. Cover the opening with your hand and shake the container for a few seconds to mix up the powder, then screw on the top. To darken your dry shampoo and use on darker hair, mix in an extra 1-2 tsp (3-6 g) of unsweetened cocoa powder and 5 drops of an essential oil. | Obtain a small container with a perforated lid. A small salt or pepper shaker is the ideal kind of container to store your dry shampoo, but you could even use a cheese shaker. Clean the container. Unscrew and remove the cap from the container. Use warm soapy water to wash away any impurities before you fill it with the dry shampoo ingredients. After washing, lay the container upside down on a paper towel to allow it to completely dry. Add in the dry shampoo ingredients. Once the container is completely dried, use a funnel to add ¼ cup of cornstarch and 1 tablespoon of baking soda into the container. Remove the funnel, and use your hand to cover the container opening. Keeping your hand tightly secured to the container opening, gently shake the container and its contents for about 5 seconds. Shaking the container like this allows you to thoroughly mix the cornstarch and baking soda together. You can substitute arrowroot powder for the cornstarch; they both have oil absorbing properties. Secure the top of the container. Snap or screw on the lid of the container. Make sure that the lid is fastened firmly, with no openings or uneven attachments. If the lid isn't attached tightly, you run the risk of spilling all the dry shampoo on your head when you try to sprinkle it on. Mix the dry ingredients of the dry shampoo. Add 1 cup of bentonite clay, and 1 cup of arrowroot powder in a medium sized bowl. Use a spoon to mix the ingredients together until they are fully combined. Add essential oil. Once the powdered ingredients are mixed, add in 5-10 drops of an essential oil of your choice. Mix the ingredients again to combine the essential oil with the powdered ingredients. The more drops of essential oil you add, the stronger smelling your dry shampoo will be. This step isn't mandatory for making a dry shampoo, but it lends a nice fragrance to your homemade product. Peppermint, lavender, and chamomile are popular choices for essential oil additions to dry shampoos. Add the dry shampoo to a small container. Use a funnel to add the dry shampoo into your chosen dry shampoo container. A container that resembles a salt or pepper shaker works best for storing your dry shampoo. However, make sure if you use a salt or pepper shaker, that it is either unused or thoroughly cleaned with soap and water. #*Make sure the container is completely dried before you add in your dry shampoo. The tiny holes in the cap of a salt or pepper shaker allow for added control when you sprinkle the dry shampoo onto the roots of your hair. Attach the top of the container. Tightly fasten on the top of the container, and enjoy your homemade dry shampoo. Be sure to look for any possible gaps between the container and its top, so you don't spill your dry shampoo when you're shaking it over your head. Mix together the dry ingredients of the dry shampoo. Add either ¼ cup of arrowroot powder or ¼ cup of cornstarch and 1-2 teaspoons of unsweetened cocoa powder into a medium sized bowl. Mix these ingredients thoroughly with a spoon. The cocoa powder helps to camouflage the dry shampoo in darker hair colors. Add in essential oil. Add in about 5 drops of your favorite essential oil. Use a spoon to again mix the ingredients until all of them are fully combined. Add your dry shampoo to a container. Use a funnel to carefully pour the contents of the bowl into a small container. Once the dry shampoo ingredients are added, secure on the top of the container and check for any gaps or openings. Consider using a container that looks like a salt or pepper shaker, and has a lid with tiny holes in it. This will allow you to gently scatter the dry shampoo onto the roots of your hair. | Obtain a small container with a perforated lid. Clean the container. Add in the dry shampoo ingredients. Secure the top of the container. Mix the dry ingredients of the dry shampoo. Add essential oil. Add the dry shampoo to a small container. Attach the top of the container. Mix together the dry ingredients of the dry shampoo. Add in essential oil. Add your dry shampoo to a container. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Get-a-Pennsylvania-E-ZPass | How to Get a Pennsylvania E ZPass | To get a Pennsylvania E-ZPass, fill out an application at paturnpike.com. You'll need to provide your name, license number, contact information, vehicle information, and payment information. After you submit an application, wait 7-10 days for your transponder to arrive. Alternatively, if you're in a rush, you can purchase an E-ZPass Go Pak at select retail locations. | Read the E-ZPass Terms of Agreement. The PTC recommends that you review the terms and conditions before you enroll in the E-ZPass program. This will make it easier for you to understand how it works and how to manage your account. Reading the terms can also help you make sure that you want to sign up. If you still have questions about the E-ZPass program after reading the Agreement, you can call the PTC's E-ZPass Customer Service Center at 1.877.736.6727 to speak to a representative. Choose the type of E-ZPass that you need. The PTC offers both personal and commercial accounts. A personal account is available if you need nine transponders or less for personal vehicles that weigh less than 15,000 pounds. You must sign up for a commercial account if you have an RV or other vehicle that weighs more than 15,000 pounds and/or require 10 transponders or more. If you plan to use your E-ZPass for commuting to work, road trips, and other personal travel, opt for a personal account. If you have an RV or other recreational vehicle that you use personally but it weighs more than 15,000 pounds, you must sign up for a commercial account. Have the necessary application information ready. You'll need to provide the driver's name, driver's license number, and contact information to open an E-ZPass account. The application also requires vehicle information, including the make, model, color, year and license plate number for each vehicle that will be covered. You're required to link your E-ZPass account to a form of payment to ensure that there are always enough funds to pay for tolls. Depending on how you choose to set up your account, you can either link directly to your bank account for automatic payment, provide a credit or debit card, or send a personal check or money order through the mail. Do not send cash as payment. Visit the PA Turnpike website. Enter https://www.paturnpike.com/ into your web browser to get started. Click on the E-ZPass login icon at the top right hand side of the page. Look at the top, right-hand side of the webpage once it loads. Locate the “E-ZPass Login” icon and click on it. Click on “Get an E-ZPass” and then click on “Open Personal Account”. Next, click the “Get an E-ZPass” icon. This will redirect you to a new page with 3 options. Click the third option: “Open Personal Account”. Follow the instructions to create a personal account. Once you are on the next page, you will be prompted to read and agree to the terms. Do this and then, if you agree, click the box at the bottom or the page to continue with the application. While it's mandatory to add primary contact information for the account, you should also consider including additional contacts in case the primary contact is unavailable. Only individuals who are listed as contacts on the E-ZPass account are authorized to receive account information. If you want someone other than yourself to be able to access the account info, make sure to include them in the application. Wait 7 - 10 days for your transponder. Once you complete your application, it usually takes about a week to receive the E-ZPass transponder that contains your account information and provides payment when you pass through tolls. Mount the transponder in your vehicle. E-ZPass transponders must be properly mounted in or on your vehicle in order to ensure that the device is read properly. Once you place it in your vehicle according to the instructions, your E-ZPass is ready to go. There are three types of transponders: interior, motorcycle, and bumper mount. You'll be sent the proper transponder based on the vehicle information that you provide when opening the account. Interior transponders should be installed on the windshield behind the rear view mirror and below any tinting. Make sure the windshield is clean and dry before pressing it in place. Motorcycle transponders should be installed on the windscreen, placing it between the windscreen and instrument cowl. To install a bumper mount transponder, attach it to the top of the front license plate holder. Purchase an E-ZPass Go Pak. You can purchase an E-ZPass Go Pak from a retailer for $38 plus a convenience fee, which will vary depending on retailer. E-ZPass Go Paks are available at locations throughout the state. E-ZPass Go Paks are also available at select Wegmans, Kuhn's, Giant Eagle, GetGo, Acme, Karns, Giant, and Martin's stores. Visit the PA Turnpike's website for a full list of retailers. Register your transponder. Once you've purchased your Go Pak, you need to register the transponder to establish an E-ZPass account prior to using it. You will need to provide the transponder number and PIN, as well as a credit card, e-mail address, and license plate number. You'll also be able to set up online account access with a screen name and password. You must register your transponder in order to activate it. Once you register your Go-Pak transponder, allow 48 hours for your transponder to become active. You may choose to have your account automatically replenished with a credit / debit card or you can opt for manual replenishment. However, if you opt for manual replenishment you will need to contact the PTC E-ZPass Customer Service Center at 1.877.736.6727. Mount the transponder inside your vehicle. Once you've registered the transponder, you need to place it in your car, so you're ready to the hit the road. Go Paks include interior transponders, which should be placed on the windshield, behind the rear mirror and below any tinting. To ensure that the transponder adheres well to the windshield, clean the surface with isopropyl alcohol. Make sure to dry it with a clean, dry cloth before mounting. The E-ZPass logo should be upright and facing you when you install the transponder. Download and complete an application form. You can find it as a PDF file on the PTC's website. Simply follow the link, and save a copy of the form to your computer. You can either print out a copy or fill it in by hand. The form requires your name, driver's license number, address, phone number, and email address. In addition, you'll need to include the vehicle information, including the make, model, license plate number, and weight. You'll also have to choose a replenishment option, such as automatic payment from your bank account, automatic payment from a credit or debit card, or manual replenishment with a check or money order, which requires a $10 deposit for the transponder. As with the online application, you can add a second contact to the account, so another person is authorized to receive account information. Mail or fax it. Once the form is completed, you'll need to send it back to the PTC. You can mail or fax it to the E-ZPass Customer Service Center. The mailing address is 300 East Park Drive, Harrisburg, PA, 17111, and the fax number is 717.565.4311. Wait approximately 10 to 14 days for the transponder to arrive. When you mail or fax your application, it takes a little longer to receive your E-ZPass transponder. You'll likely receive it more quickly if you fax your form, but if you mail your application, it may take up to 2 weeks to process it and send out your transponder. Install your transponder. Once you receive it, you'll need to install the transponder, so it's ready when you go through a toll plaza. The type of transponder that you receive depends on the make of your vehicle. In most cases, you simply have to mount it in on the interior windshield behind the rear view mirror. Motorcycles require exterior transponders that install between the windscreen and instrument cowl. If you receive a bumper mount transponder, don't try to install it inside your car; it's only designed for mounting to the top of the front license plate holder. | Read the E-ZPass Terms of Agreement. Choose the type of E-ZPass that you need. Have the necessary application information ready. Visit the PA Turnpike website. Click on the E-ZPass login icon at the top right hand side of the page. Click on “Get an E-ZPass” and then click on “Open Personal Account”. Follow the instructions to create a personal account. Wait 7 - 10 days for your transponder. Mount the transponder in your vehicle. Purchase an E-ZPass Go Pak. Register your transponder. Mount the transponder inside your vehicle. Download and complete an application form. Mail or fax it. Wait approximately 10 to 14 days for the transponder to arrive. Install your transponder. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Crack-Your-Knee | How to Crack Your Knee | To crack your knee, start by taking a seat in a chair. Stretch your leg straight out in front of you and then bend your leg at the knee towards the chair. This will move the bones and ligaments and cause your knee to crack. If this doesn't work, try standing in a lunge position with the knee you want to crack behind you. Then, lower your body down so your knee is close to the floor but not touching it, which will put pressure on the knee joint to crack it. | Sit in a chair or lay down on your back. If you want to pop your knee gently and with some control, it's best to take all pressure off of it. Sitting or lying down will allow you to move it intentionally and control exactly when the popping occurs. Stretch your leg out straight. Extend your knee joint as straight as it can go. This puts the joint in its fully extending position, potentially moving your ligaments and knee cap across your leg bones enough to move air in the joint, which causes a pop. It may be that this movement alone is enough to crack your knee. Bend your leg, if necessary. If your knee doesn't crack just by extending your leg, then move the joint into its completely opposite position. If you are sitting, simply bend the bottom of your leg in towards the chair. If you are laying down, raise your knee in the air and pull your foot in towards your buttocks. To contract the joint completely while sitting in a chair, you may need to move your buttocks forward to the edge of the chair. This will allow you to bend the knee further. Bending your leg completely will move the bones and ligaments across each other, causing a pop when ligaments go over uneven bones or when air moves through the joint. Extend and contract the knee joint until it pops. It can take several rounds of moving the knee in this manner to get the joint to crack. Just be sure to move back and forth slowly, so that you can stop the movement if it becomes painful or uncomfortable. By moving your knees from extension to flexion and back again, you can help your kneecap fully engage into the center of your knee joint. If this gets your knee to crack there's nothing wrong with that happening. However, it is a sign you need to work on being more limber. If you can't get your knee to crack with this movement, then you may need to put some pressure on the joint to make it happen. Position your body to do a lunge. Stand up with your feet hip-distance apart. Then step one foot back and bend your knees. You should step back far enough so that your front knee stays over the front ankle when you bend. The back knee should be in line with the hip when it is bent. Being in the proper position will ensure that you don't injure your knee when you put pressure on it. Do a slow, controlled lunge. Lower your body down far enough so that the back knee is close to the floor, but not touching it. As you go down, your front foot should stay flat on the floor and your back foot will bend so that the toes are only touching the floor. Putting pressure on the knee joint while trying to pop it will make the ligaments and bones move into slightly different positions than they would go into without added weight. This slight change may be enough to crack your knee. Try full squats to pop both knees, if necessary. If knee bends are not your cup of tea, then you can bend both knees at the same time. Place your feet hip width apart and then slowly squat your body down. Be sure to move in a slow controlled manner, so that you can abandon the movement if it becomes painful. Squatting like this uses your body weight to contract the knee joint further than it would normally go. This position may be extreme enough to crack a knee that has been hard to crack. It is important to be careful and controlled when doing squats. If you just release all control and let your body drop, it could injure your knees. Consult with a doctor. If your knees feel like they need to be cracked often, and especially if you have associated pain, you should have them looked at by a doctor. Your doctor should be able to identify the problem and will give you options for treatment. While some knee popping is perfectly normal, a constant need to pop your knee could signal a problem with your cartilage being worn down, a tear in your meniscus, or developing arthritis. In many cases, treatment options will include medication, physical therapy, and, if the problem is severe, surgery. Take anti-inflammatory medication. In a lot of cases, cracking in the knee occurs when the knee bones are not sitting correctly because there is excessive inflammation between them. If you can reduce this inflammation, then cracking will feel less necessary. You can take an over-the-counter anti-inflammatory, such as ibuprofen. Talk to your doctor if you think a prescription anti-inflammatory would be more effective for your condition. Do low-impact knee exercises. While it may be tempting to stop moving a knee that feels like it needs to be cracked all the time, it is important to keep it moving. Low-impact exercises that will be good for your knees include: Swimming. Bicycling. Water aerobics. Elliptical. Minimize activities that are hard on the knees. While some exercises are great for keeping the knees healthy and flexible, there are other exercises that can be particularly bad for knees that are already compromised. Avoid activities that create a strong impact on the knees, particularly activities that include running. If you want to continue running, at least try to give your knees time to recover between sessions. For instance, alternate your running days with days when you do a low-impact exercise like cycling. | Sit in a chair or lay down on your back. Stretch your leg out straight. Bend your leg, if necessary. Extend and contract the knee joint until it pops. Position your body to do a lunge. Do a slow, controlled lunge. Try full squats to pop both knees, if necessary. Consult with a doctor. Take anti-inflammatory medication. Do low-impact knee exercises. Minimize activities that are hard on the knees. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Use-Body-Butter | How to Use Body Butter | To use body butter, apply it to your body right after you shower or before bed to help moisturize your skin. Just avoid using it on your face since it can clog pores and cause breakouts. After you rub the body butter into your skin, let it dry for a few minutes before putting on clothes. If you don't want to apply it to your whole body, try targeting spots that are particularly dry, like your hands, feet, and elbows. | Choose a spreadable body butter for easy use. These body butters are often labeled as "whipped." You can also look for blends that contain oils or butters that are liquid at room temperature, such as coconut oil, jojoba oil, almond oil, or grapeseed oil. This makes the body butter easy to scoop out and apply to your body. If you choose a body butter that is thicker or solid at room temperature, you can still use it as a moisturizer. Scoop out the amount you want to use, then give it a moment to melt in your palm. Apply it to your body before bed for an intense moisture treatment. When you sleep with the body butter on your skin, it has more time to soak in. Additionally, the heat from the blankets will warm you up, providing a more intensive treatment. If you have dry skin, you can do this every day, if you'd like. If your skin is normal or oily, then you might do an intensive moisture treatment once a week or as needed. Keep in mind that some of the body butter might rub off on your blankets. In rare cases, it can cause oil stains on the fabric. However, your washing machine should remove the body butter, if you do get it on the blankets. Seal in moisture by using it within 5 minutes of showering. You can use the body butter after your shower at any time of day, but taking a shower right before bed will have the best benefits. Applying the lotion right after a shower will seal in the moisture that remains on your skin. A warm shower is your best option for moist skin, as it warms up the body. However, hot water can dry out your skin. You can use your body butter daily or as needed. For dry skin, it's a good idea to use it daily. If you have normal or oily skin, you might use it as a weekly treatment or to treat dry areas. Dab wet skin dry with a towel, leaving a little moisture. You want to remove most of the water, but your skin should look dewy. While body butter can seal in a light layer of moisture, it will be hard to smooth it on if you have too much water on your skin, as the butter will interact with the water. Scoop out about a dime-sized amount of body butter. You can use your fingers or a spatula. It's best to apply the body butter in small amounts. It may take longer to apply than a typical lotion, but taking your time will prevent your skin from feeling greasy. If you used a spatula, you can apply the body butter directly to your skin or onto your fingertips. You may prefer to use a spatula so that the body butter doesn't get under your nails and to avoid contaminating the container with bacteria that may be on your hands. If your body butter is in a squeeze container, apply the butter directly from the container onto your skin. Wait a few seconds for the warmth in your skin to melt the body butter. If you used your fingers, then you can rub the body butter between your fingertips. If you applied it directly to your body, then let it sit for a few seconds before you start to rub it in. The natural warmth from your body will soften the body butter so that it smooths on easily. Rub in the body butter using long, firm strokes. Use the palm of your hands for the easiest application. You can also work it in over the joint areas, such as your knees, ankles, and elbows, using firm, circular strokes. Stop rubbing the body butter once you've smoothed it into a thin, even layer. Your skin may look slightly greasy. Work in small sections, applying more body butter as necessary. However, be careful not to apply too much, as your body may feel greasy. Continue until your body is fully moisturized. For example, you could start with your feet. Next, move to your calves, then do your knees and thighs. Next, do your stomach, chest, bum, and back. Finally, do each arm, your elbows, and your hands. Dab a second layer of body butter onto dry spots, like your elbows. You may also want to add more body butter onto your feet, knees, hands, and anywhere that looks dry and cracked. Remember to keep your layers light and even so that the body butter doesn't make your skin greasy. If you apply too much, you can wipe it off with a towel. Let the body butter dry for a few minutes before putting on clothes. Body butter takes a little more time to soak into your skin than lotion does. However, it just takes a few minutes! You'll know it's dry when your skin doesn't feel greasy. If you put on your clothes too early, you'll get body butter on your clothes. Although body butter usually doesn't stain, it could cause oil stains due to its rich ingredients. In most cases, you can remove the body butter by washing the fabric in a washing machine. Avoid using body butter on your face. Since it's so thick and concentrated, body butter can clog your pores. It's best to avoid putting it on your face, where it could result in pimples. Instead, stick to moisturizers formulated for your face. Choose a blend with avocado butter, mango butter, or olive butter. These butters are very moisturizing and can help heal your dry hands or feet, even if the skin is cracked. Ideally, your body butter should also contain other thick butters, such as shea or cocoa butter. For this type of treatment, a thicker body butter is usually the best option, as it will contain richer ingredients. These body butters may be solid at room temperature, but they will melt in your hand. Apply a thin layer to your feet just before bed. Start with a pea-sized amount and add more as needed. Pay special attention to dry areas, as well as your ankle joint. You can wait a few minutes for it to dry before proceeding, but you don't have to if you don't mind getting body butter on your socks. The body butter should melt into your skin. Put socks on your feet. You can put the socks on over wet body butter, if you don't mind getting the product on your socks. The socks will seal in the moisture, as well as keep the butter on your feet. You can use regular socks. Slathering on body butter and then applying socks over it while the butter is still wet provides a more intense treatment. You can also find special socks made for sealing in moisture while you sleep. They have a special fabric that helps hold the moisture in. They're available at drug stores or online. Smooth a thin layer over your hands. Start with a pea-sized amount and add more if necessary. Work the body butter into your skin, paying special attention to your knuckles and any dry areas. You can wait for it to dry if you'd prefer, or you can apply gloves over the wet body butter. You can use body butter over cracked skin, if you'd like. It will help the damaged skin heal faster. However, it's best not to use it if your skin is bleeding. Pull on a pair of gloves. You can use normal mittens, but microfiber gloves made for sealing moisture into your hands will work best. The gloves will seal in the body butter so that it can treat your hands overnight. If you put the gloves on when the body butter is still wet, your overnight treatment will be more intense. You can find gloves for overnight hand treatments at your local drug store or online. Remove your socks and gloves in the morning. Your skin should feel soft and smooth! Wash any remaining body butter from your skin. Be sure to wash your socks and gloves before their next use. Simply toss them in with your regular laundry, unless the care instructions on them direct otherwise. Choose an unscented body butter. Fragrances can cause skin irritation, so you should not use them on skin that is already damaged. Check the label to make sure that the body butter you plan to use is fragrance free. For stretch marks, look for a blend that contains vitamin E and a blend of butters, such as shea or cocoa butter. For eczema or psoriasis, look for a blend that contains jojoba oil. Ucuuba butter also works well for skin conditions, including eczema, psoriasis, and skin irritation. Opt for pumpkin seed butter if you'd like to treat dry, irritated skin and wrinkles. Look for kokum butter if you want to treat sunburn. Treat cracked skin, wounds, irritation, and stretch marks. Body butter is great for helping your skin heal! The typical ingredients used in body butter, such as shea butter or cocoa butter, are traditional skin treatments in some cultures. It's a rich moisturizer that can nourish your skin. For example, body butter can help with eczema, psoriasis, chapped skin, and sunburn. Don't use body butter to treat skin that is bleeding. Ask your doctor before using body butter to treat a medical condition. Avoid using body butter to treat conditions like acne or a rash. The body butter could make these conditions worse. Keep in mind that body butter can clog your pores, so you may aggravate the condition. Instead, choose products formulated to treat these conditions. If you have a rash, it's best to see a doctor. Scoop out a pea-sized amount of body butter with your fingers. You can apply more body butter if necessary, but it's best to work in small amounts so that your skin doesn't feel greasy. It takes longer for body butter to soak into your body, as compared with other lotions. Rub the body butter between your fingers to melt it. It only takes a few seconds for the body butter to melt. The natural warmth from your body is enough to turn it into a liquid. You can also melt it in the palm of your hand, if you prefer. Work the body butter into the affected skin. Put the body butter only on the skin you're treating. Rub it into your skin using firm, circular motions. It may feel greasy at first, but it will soak into your skin. If necessary, apply more lotion until the entire affected area is treated. Wait a few minutes for it to dry. It will take a little longer to dry than other treatment creams. You'll know it's dry when it doesn't feel greasy. After it's dry, you can continue about your day as usual. It's okay to cover the area with clothing. You can apply more body butter throughout the day, as desired. Just keep in mind that your skin may feel greasy if you apply too much. | Choose a spreadable body butter for easy use. Apply it to your body before bed for an intense moisture treatment. Seal in moisture by using it within 5 minutes of showering. Dab wet skin dry with a towel, leaving a little moisture. Scoop out about a dime-sized amount of body butter. Wait a few seconds for the warmth in your skin to melt the body butter. Rub in the body butter using long, firm strokes. Work in small sections, applying more body butter as necessary. Dab a second layer of body butter onto dry spots, like your elbows. Let the body butter dry for a few minutes before putting on clothes. Avoid using body butter on your face. Choose a blend with avocado butter, mango butter, or olive butter. Apply a thin layer to your feet just before bed. Put socks on your feet. Smooth a thin layer over your hands. Pull on a pair of gloves. Remove your socks and gloves in the morning. Choose an unscented body butter. Treat cracked skin, wounds, irritation, and stretch marks. Avoid using body butter to treat conditions like acne or a rash. Scoop out a pea-sized amount of body butter with your fingers. Rub the body butter between your fingers to melt it. Work the body butter into the affected skin. Wait a few minutes for it to dry. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Install-a-Car-Volt-Amp-Gauge | How to Install a Car Volt Amp Gauge | A car volt amp gauge shows you how much power your vehicle's battery provides and if the battery gets enough current to charge the system. If these gauges aren't included on your dashboard, you can add them with some wires and tools. Start by finding a hole in your car's firewall where you can feed the wires from inside your car so they come out under the hood. You can then connect the amp gauge to your battery and alternator so you can see how well it's charging the system. If you also want to measure voltage, you can attach the volt gauge to the battery and ground. | Mount the gauges in a gauge pod on top of your dashboard. The main panel for your dashboard normally doesn't have room to install additional meters, so it's easier to use a gauge pod, which is a standalone mount that rests on top of your dashboard. Position the gauges so they line up with the holes on the gauge pod and push them in to secure them in place. Keep the gauge pod somewhere on top of your dashboard where you can easily check the readouts. You can buy gauge pods online or from automotive stores. Volt gauges and amp gauges are typically separate devices. You may also find gauge pods that attach to the A-pillar, which is the panel that runs up the side of the windshield toward the driver's side door. Find a hole and grommet with wires through it in your vehicle’s firewall. Your vehicle's firewall is the metal panel that creates a barrier between the engine and the interior of your car. Look in the footwell of the driver's seat or under the hood on the driver's side to see if there is a round rubber grommet that has cords or wires feeding through it. Push down on the rings of the grommet to feel if there's still space inside for wires to feed through. If there is, then you can use the hole. If not, look for another hole and grommet nearby. If you aren't able to use any of the holes under your vehicle, then contact a professional mechanic so they can make a hole through the firewall for you. Poke a wire insertion tool through the outer ring of the grommet. A wire insertion tool looks like a hollow screwdriver that has a hole running through the middle of the handle. Pop open your vehicle's hood to locate where the wires enter, and place the point of the insertion tool in an open spot on the grommet. Push the insertion tool hard enough so it punctures the grommet and pops out from the interior of your car. You can buy wire insertion tools from your local hardware store. Be careful not to poke or damage any of the wires in the grommet since the end of the insertion tool can be sharp. Feed 2 red, 1 black, and 1 green 10-gauge wire through the tool. Cut the wires so they're about 15–20 feet (4.6–6.1 m) long so you can maneuver them around your vehicle. Place the wires into the hole at the end of the insertion tool's handle and push them through completely. Go inside your vehicle and pull the ends of the wires so you have 6–7 feet (1.8–2.1 m) to work with. When you connect to the amp gauge, you'll use 1 red wire and 1 black wire that will both carry a current. The volt gauge will use 1 hot red wire and 1 green grounding wire. Leave the wires loose inside your vehicle while you're working so you don't break or damage them before you finish your installation. Pull the insertion tool out from the grommet so the wires stay in place. Lightly tug on the insertion tool's handle to remove the end from the grommet. Hold the wires in place with your nondominant hand and continue pulling the tool backward so the wires slide through the middle. Make sure you don't cut or damage the wires as you remove the tool completely. If you weren't able to fit all of the wires through the tool at the same time, poke another hole through the grommet and feed any other wires through the new hole. Crimp ring terminals on the ends of the wires inside your vehicle. Ring terminals have a circular port so wires can easily slide over bolts or terminals. Strip the interior ends of each wire to remove ⁄ 2 inch (1.3 cm) of insulation from each one. Slide 10-gauge ring terminals over the ends of the wire so they cover the uninsulated portions. Grip the center of the ring terminal's coating with wire crimpers and squeeze the handles together to make your connection. You can buy ring terminals from your local hardware store. Don't try to attach your gauges without using ring terminals since you won't have as secure of a connection. Disconnect the negative terminal from your vehicle’s battery. Your battery will usually be near the front of your vehicle on the driver's side. Look for the terminal on your battery that has a black cover or a negative symbol (-) next to it. Use an insulated wrench to loosen the nut holding the wire to the terminal until you can easily pull the wire off. Set the wire aside while you're working so it doesn't touch anything else. You do not need to remove the positive terminal from the battery. Secure 1 red and 1 black wire to the S and I terminals on the gauge respectively. Look at the back or bottom of the amp gauge inside your vehicle so you can find the terminals labeled with an S and an I. Loosen the nuts on the terminals and remove them completely. Take the red wire and feed the S terminal through the ring before screwing the nut back on. Attach the black wire to the I terminal on the gauge the same way. Both of the wires connecting to the gauge will carry a current, so it doesn't matter as much which wire you connect to which port. Leave the other red wire and the green wire alone for now since you'll use them to hook up the volt gauge. Attach in-line fuses to the ends of the wires in the engine bay with butt connectors. In-line fuses are built into wires to prevent shorts and protect wires from getting too hot. Strip the last ⁄ 2 inch (1.3 cm) of insulation off the wires and 1 end off of each in-line fuse. Place the end of the red wire and 1 end of a 30-amp in-line fuse into opposite ends of a butt connector, which looks like a small tube, and crimp it in the middle. Repeat the process with the black wire and a second in-line fuse. Don't use wires without in-line fuses since they could create a fire hazard. Make sure the fuses can handle at least 30 amps, or else they won't work with your amp gauge. Lightly tug on the wires from outside of your vehicle to see which ones are connected to the gauge if you aren't sure. Connect the red wire to the positive output on your vehicle’s alternator. The alternator is a silver, barrel-shaped device that has a fan inside attached to the front or side of the engine. Locate the bolt on the back side of the alternator that's labeled with a positive sign (+) and loosen the nut screwed onto it. Guide the ring terminal from the in-line fuse attached to the red wire over the bolt and slide it down. Retighten the nut so the wire has a firm connection with the alternator. Some alternators are located at the bottom of the engine and may be difficult to access. If you aren't able to reach the alternator, then take your vehicle to a mechanic to help you. Run the black wire to the positive terminal on your vehicle’s battery. Look at the battery's positive terminal and locate the smaller wire leading toward your vehicle's fuse box. Loosen the nut on the terminal holding the smaller wire against the battery and pull it off. Slide the ring terminal of the in-line fuse attached to the black wire over the bolt with the small wire before tightening the nut again. Don't work on your vehicle's battery if you have the negative terminal still attached. Check that the gauge dips negative when you turn on just the headlights. Reconnect the negative terminal on the battery and tighten the nut so it's secure. Without turning the key in the ignition, switch on your vehicle's headlights manually. Check the gauge to see if it drops into the negative side, which means the lights are drawing power from the battery. Turn off the lights and watch the gauge to see if moves back to 0, which means there's no current running through the battery. If the gauge doesn't dip when you turn the lights on, disconnect the battery again and check the wires to make sure they're attached correctly. When you start your engine, you should also see the gauge spike up into the positive range, which shows a positive current charging the battery. Remove the negative terminal from the vehicle’s battery. Loosen the nut holding the negative terminal of the battery with an insulated wrench until you're able to move the wire. Take the wire off of the battery and set it aside so it isn't touching any other wires inside your vehicle. Keep the negative terminal disconnected throughout the entirety of your installation so you don't get shocked. You do not need to remove the positive terminal from your battery. Secure the red and green wires to the positive and negative gauge terminals. Remove any nuts from the terminals on the back or side of the volt gauge. Take the remaining red wire and slide the ring terminal over the positive side of the gauge. Put the green wire on the negative terminal of the gauge to use as your grounding wire. Retighten the nuts so they hold the wires firmly against the back of the gauge. Attach ring terminals onto the ends of the wires in the engine bay. Strip the last ⁄ 2 inch (1.3 cm) off of the ends of the red and green wires outside your vehicle with a pair of wire strippers. Slide 10-gauge ring terminals over the ends of the wires so they cover the uninsulated portions. Grip the ring terminal in the middle with a pair of crimpers and squeeze the handles together so the pieces are firmly attached. Repeat the process with the other wire so you can easily attach them to bolts. Don't use ring terminals for differently sized wires since they won't fit as well. Connect the red wire to the positive terminal of your vehicle’s battery. Use the same bolt on the positive battery terminal that you used for your amp gauge. Loosen the nut with a wrench and remove it completely from the bolt. Slide the ring terminal for the red wire onto the bolt and secure the nut again so it has a firm connection with the battery. Leave a little bit of slack in your wires so they're less likely to snap or break inside your vehicle. Secure the green wire to a bare bolt on the vehicle’s frame. Look for an empty unpainted nut and bolt somewhere underneath your hood along the outer edges. Loosen the nut with a wrench and slide it off of the bolt completely. Guide the ring terminal of the green wire onto the bolt and press it down against the metal. Tighten the nut as far as you can so the wire doesn't move or slip around. If you can't find a bolt that's empty under your hood, make sure to hold whatever was attached to the bolt steady as you loosen it for the wire. Don't connect the grounding wire to the negative terminal on your battery or any other wiring since you could cause it to short. The volt gauge will not work if you attach the grounding wire to a painted bolt. Check that the volt gauge reads between 12–14 V while your vehicle is running. Reattach the negative terminal back onto your battery and tighten the nut that held it in place. Turn the key in the ignition to start your vehicle's engine. Check the volt gauge reading to see if it's pointing between 12–14 V. Try turning on multiple lights and your heating/cooling system to see if the volt gauge drops below 12. Turn your vehicle off when you're finished checking the gauge. If the gauge reading doesn't change, then disconnect the battery and check the wiring to make sure they're attached correctly. | Mount the gauges in a gauge pod on top of your dashboard. Find a hole and grommet with wires through it in your vehicle’s firewall. Poke a wire insertion tool through the outer ring of the grommet. Feed 2 red, 1 black, and 1 green 10-gauge wire through the tool. Pull the insertion tool out from the grommet so the wires stay in place. Crimp ring terminals on the ends of the wires inside your vehicle. Disconnect the negative terminal from your vehicle’s battery. Secure 1 red and 1 black wire to the S and I terminals on the gauge respectively. Attach in-line fuses to the ends of the wires in the engine bay with butt connectors. Connect the red wire to the positive output on your vehicle’s alternator. Run the black wire to the positive terminal on your vehicle’s battery. Check that the gauge dips negative when you turn on just the headlights. Remove the negative terminal from the vehicle’s battery. Secure the red and green wires to the positive and negative gauge terminals. Attach ring terminals onto the ends of the wires in the engine bay. Connect the red wire to the positive terminal of your vehicle’s battery. Secure the green wire to a bare bolt on the vehicle’s frame. Check that the volt gauge reads between 12–14 V while your vehicle is running. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Sell-Books | How to Sell Books | To sell used books, try selling them online through websites like eBay, Amazon, and Craigslist. Or, you can sell them in person to local used book stores, which buy used books and then sell them for a profit. Alternatively, if you're trying to get rid of a lot of books, you could try selling them at a garage sale. If you're not sure how much to sell your books for, look online for how much other people are asking for them. | Repair any damage done to the book. If you have a pile of well-loved books that you're trying to resell, the first thing you'll want to do is get them in tip-top shape. You'll get a much higher price for a book that doesn't have rips, bent pages, writing, or frayed edges. Although not all of these things can be fixed, do your best to repair any damage done to your books. Unfold any 'dog-ears' and remove old bookmarks or sticky notes, tape the edges to prevent them from fraying further, and patch any tears that might be visible. For textbooks that are worth quite a bit of money, it may be in your best interest to purchase book-repair materials commonly used by librarians. If you've written in your book, erase marks if possible or use white-out to cover up ink. Determine the price of your book. It may not always be easy to know how much a book is worth, but you should try to find a ballpark price range prior to selling it. That way, you'll know what to charge or whether you're being offered a decent amount. Check the price online of books in similar condition as your own; if prices vary, take several that seem 'normal' and take the average to get the price for your book. If there are no other copies of your book on the market (it is a vintage copy or textbook), look at books similar to your own to gauge your selling price. A damaged book will never be worth very much, no matter what the content is. Look into selling your books online. If you're looking for ease and a quick sell, your best option for selling your used books is to try an online store. Look for venues/sellers specific to your type of book - textbooks, vintage, cookbooks, fiction, etc. - and go through the process of registering online with them. There are two general ways you can sell online: sell directly to a large buyer, or create a posting for your book that people can search. The former gives you the fastest means of selling your books, but the latter gives you more control over price and where your books go. Look on websites like Amazon or eBay to see what their selling process is like. If you don't want to pay for shipping, look into possibly selling locally via a website like Craigslist. Check for used bookstores in your area. Although chain bookstores tend to be the go-to for many readers these days, there are plenty of used bookstores around for those of us on the more frugal side. Used bookstores get their stock from people trying to sell books. You go in, drop off the books you want to get rid of, they search/price the books they want, and give you a quote for the total. Used bookstores are nice because they get books off your hands immediately, but they may not buy all your books from you. It is becoming more and more common for used bookstores to give store credit rather than hard cash for any books they decide to purchase from you. Make sure you check on this policy before trading in your books. Keep in mind that used bookstores can sell good-quality books for much more money, so if you're trying to get rid of books that are bent up and damaged, they probably won't buy them from you. Try selling your books at a yard sale. If the weather isn't too bad and you have quite a load of books you're trying to get rid of, it might be in your best interest to host a garage or yard sale. Here, you'll be able to set up shop and sell tons of books, fast. Yard sales are a favorite hunting grounds of book lovers, as there tends to be a large variety for little cost. Put your books on display, price them cheaply, and people will be snatching them up off your hands quicker than you can put them out! Advertise your garage/yard sale a few days in advance for the most traffic. Place an ad in a local newspaper, or put up signs around your house so that people know where to come to. If you have a friend with lots to sell, you can draw in more people by doubling up and creating a big yard sale. Bringing in more stock from a friend will get people much more interested than just a few books sitting out on a table. Make sure your book is in perfect condition. The biggest mistake you can make in selling a self-published book is putting it out on the market while it still has mistakes and needs editing. Make sure that your book has been well-edited, is formatted correctly, and has a matching cover and appearance with the story. A good-looking and clean book will sell many many more copies than a book that has numerous mistakes or an obviously hand-made cover design. It is worth your money to hire a professional editor or cover designer to help get your book ready for selling. Don't rely on friends and family only for opinions/editing help on your book. It will be clear if you were lazy and took the easiest way out for getting your book prepared for selling. Advertise it on social media. You need to make as many people aware of your novel as possible, which means using multiple social media platforms to get the word out. You should be posting regularly about your book on various platforms to get people other than your close friends and family involved. Try using social media like: Blogs/Tumblr Facebook Twitter Goodreads (like Facebook but for books/authors) Instagram Do local events and book signings. If you make appearances in places where your book-buying audience is likely to be present, you'll be sure to sell plenty of books. See if any local bookstores, radio stations, or libraries will host you for a public interview or book signing. If you make a public appearance and can use your charm and wit to lure people into reading your book, you'll be able to get plenty more buyers than just sending your book off to be sold somewhere. If you can get a book deal at a local store and a book signing event, you'll be golden. Getting published in a blog or online magazine might be a great way to get word out about your book. Look into blogs/magazines that tend towards your reading audience, and ask if you can be hosted on their page. Create a mailing list. If you're able to get a group of fans to sign up for a mailing list, you'll be one step closer to getting your book into the hands of people who may not have heard of you before. Have people sign up for either letters or emails (the latter are more popular these days) which you can send out any time you have an event or need their support. Using this mailing list strategically will help build stronger relationships with your fans, while using it too frequently and not professionally will cause people to stop following you. Do your best to stoke interest in these lists, and your fans will likely forward them on to other friends and family. Do plenty of marketing. Marketing isn't easy; there's a reason entire college degrees exist in the field. However, if you treat selling your book like a business and do tons of marketing, you'll sell way more books than a self-publishing author who does not. Hire a marketing agent to help you get your book out in the world, or do a bit of research in marketing on your own. In the end, it will be worth the money and time spent, as you earn it all back and open the eyes of hundreds of readers to your writing. | Repair any damage done to the book. Determine the price of your book. Look into selling your books online. Check for used bookstores in your area. Try selling your books at a yard sale. Make sure your book is in perfect condition. Advertise it on social media. Do local events and book signings. Create a mailing list. Do plenty of marketing. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Change-Your-Cat%27s-Routine | How to Change Your Cat's Routine | To change your cat's routine, it's best to start slow and gradually incorporate the adjustments, since cats crave stability and often react poorly to abrupt changes. For example, if you want to start your cat on a new cat food, gradually add a little of the new cat food to the old cat food every day. If you want to change your cat's meal time, adjust it by 15 minutes or so every few days. Try to stick to one change at a time rather than making lots of changes all at once for the best results! | Change routines slowly. Instead of expecting your cat to adjust quickly to new circumstances, it is best to find ways of slowing down the changes in routine. For instance, if you want your cat to get used to a new cat food, you should gradually add a bit more of the new cat food into the old cat food every day. For any new routine, you should make slight, gradual adjustments instead of abrupt changes. If you are starting a new mealtime, change their current mealtime by fifteen minutes every few days until you get to the new mealtime. If you want your cat to sleep at night, it is important to change their exercise routine during the day. Start playing with them for gradually longer periods during the day. Start with a new play period of ten minutes and gradually build it up until they are getting at least one hour of playtime during the day. Observe your cat’s behavior. See how your cat responds to changes in their routine such as a new playtime, new diet or new people in the house. If they seem anxious or stressed out, try to comfort them and determine why they are having trouble. Consider any changes in their routine or the household routine, as well as how you could make those changes easier on your cat. Avoid too many changes in routine. Cats love the security of a daily routine, so it is best to avoid changing their routine too frequently. It is also best not to change too many things at once. If you have to move to a new city, for instance, avoid changing their diet at the same time. If you are trying to get them to sleep at night, avoid changing their diet at the same time as their sleep routine. Use a gradual approach with new cats. If you have a new cat in your home, keep them separate from your old cat for the first day or two. Swap bedding or toys between your cats so they can get to know one another through smell. Once they have smelled one another, you can introduce them directly. Let them sniff each other out in a common and neutral area of the house, such as a living room. Let your cat get accustomed to a new baby on their own time. Your cat may take some time to get used to the new baby. You can make the change easier by introducing your cat to the smell of the baby with some clothing or a baby blanket, prior to bringing the baby home from the hospital. You can also try pheromone scent products to calm your cat. Eventually, your cat will get used to the new family member. Transition your outdoor cat to the indoors. If you need to change your outdoor cat's routines to fit with a new indoor environment, you need to consider potty training as well as playtime. If your cat was potty trained but is used to going to the bathroom outdoors, you could place the kitty litter beside the door. When they want to go outside to go to the bathroom, they will use the kitty litter instead. You should also make a stimulating indoor environment, including interactive toys and perches where your cat can watch the backyard environment. When you leave the house, make sure your cat is a good distance from the doorways since they will want to escape. If your cat was not potty trained, you will need to start from scratch. Recognize that shifts in routine can damage your cat’s health. Cats thrive on routine and typically do not respond very well when it changes, especially if the changes are abrupt. There is some evidence that too frequent changes in routine can negatively impact the health of cats. Schedule playtime during the day. Make some time at lunch or right after work to play with your cat. Throw a toy mouse for your cat or give your cat a ball of string to chase. Your cat will get tired out and will be more likely to sleep during the night. Use interactive toys if you are away during the day. Cat towers with scratch surfaces and hanging balls to hit, mice and other toy animals for your cat to hunt and scratching pad toys are all good options. There are also circuit games where your cat gets to hunt a ball through a maze. Interactive cat toys range in price from $6 to $60. Consider finding a toy that requires minimum work on your part, so that your cat can play alone during the day. Let your cat outdoors during the day. If you live in the country and it is safe, you can let your cat outdoors during the day. Your cat will be able to climb trees, hunt and explore. After all of the daytime activity, your cat will be more likely to sleep at night. Allowing your cat outdoors always carries some risk. Other animals, parasites, and the elements all pose dangers to your cat. Consider this carefully before choosing to let your cat outdoors unsupervised. If you decide to let your cat outdoors, be sure your cat is spayed or neutered and up to date on vaccinations, flea and tick control, and heartworm prevention. Install a bird feeder. Watching birds is a fun routine for cats, especially if you need to keep them indoors. If you live in an area that accommodates a bird feeder, consider installing it in a location where your cat will be able to see it. Your cat will enjoy the activity and it will keep them occupied while you are busy with other things. Feed your cat after playtime. Offer a high protein meal to your cat after your post-work playtime session. The combination of exercise and food will prepare your cat for nighttime rest. Look into high protein food. High protein diets are generally healthier for cats. Try searching for high-protein options at your local pet store. Don’t let your cat sleep in your bedroom. It is important to set boundaries early in the life of your cat, so that they know not to disturb you during the night. If your cat is disturbing you at night, consider closing the door to prevent them from accessing your room and waking you. Avoid responding to your cat during the night. If your cat starts scratching at your bedroom door, try to ignore it. You should avoid giving in and playing with your cat, which will set up a positive feedback cycle, encouraging your cat to wake you up at night. Try to simply ignore your cat or put them in a different part of the house where they can't disturb you as easily. You should also avoid negatively responding to your cat with anger or physical violence. In fact, any reaction to your cat may encourage them to continue the behavior. Simply ignore them when you can. Make gradual changes to your cat’s diet. If you need to get your cat on a prescribed diet, you should gradually wean them onto the new food. Serve them a combination of the new and the old diet in their usual portion size. Decrease the amount of the old food in their serving by one tablespoon per day. Eventually, you will be ready to shift them entirely onto the new food. If you accustom your cat to a varied diet early in life, it will be easier to shift them onto a new or prescribed diet. Serve the new food in the old bowl. Place the new food in the bowl they know, alongside some of the old food in another familiar bowl alongside it. You can also mix the two together in one familiar bowl. If your cat does not touch the new food, put the bowl in the fridge and try again at the next mealtime. Continue trying until they start eating the new food. Do not keep canned cat food in the fridge for more than five days. Add delicious toppings to the new diet. You could try adding a bit of canned salmon or other favorite foods to your cat's new diet. They will focus on the flavors from their favorite dishes and gradually become accustomed to the new food. Create a peaceful and secure eating area. If you have recently moved or need to change the location of your cat's eating area for another reason, you should find a peaceful location. The eating area should be a good distance away from the kitty litter, since cats do not like to eat close to where they do their business. It should also be in a secure location, away from noisy areas of the house. If you own multiple cats, you should give each cat their own food bowl. If possible, feed them in different areas where they cannot see one another. This will reduce the stress of mealtime. Some cats like their water in a different location from their food. Avoid feeding your cat the same food all the time. You can make future dietary changes easier by varying your cat's diet once in a while. Instead of always feeding them wet food, give them dry food once in a while. If you typically buy the same brand, try a different brand periodically. When the time comes for a prescribed dietary change, your cat will be more likely to accept it. | Change routines slowly. Observe your cat’s behavior. Avoid too many changes in routine. Use a gradual approach with new cats. Let your cat get accustomed to a new baby on their own time. Transition your outdoor cat to the indoors. Recognize that shifts in routine can damage your cat’s health. Schedule playtime during the day. Use interactive toys if you are away during the day. Let your cat outdoors during the day. Install a bird feeder. Feed your cat after playtime. Don’t let your cat sleep in your bedroom. Avoid responding to your cat during the night. Make gradual changes to your cat’s diet. Serve the new food in the old bowl. Add delicious toppings to the new diet. Create a peaceful and secure eating area. Avoid feeding your cat the same food all the time. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Stop-Spending-Too-Much-Money | How to Stop Spending Too Much Money | To stop spending too much money, create a budget by adding up your monthly expenses, like rent and food, and look for any non-essentials you might be spending too much money on, like shopping or coffee. Additionally, resist overspending by asking yourself questions like “Do I need this?” and “Does this fit within my budget?” and only buy something if you can answer “Yes” to both questions. | What non-essentials are you spending a lot on? When you are not living within your means, the first thing to examine are things that you do not really need. Unlike fixed expenses (essentials like rent, utilities, and other payments) which remain the same each month, discretionary expenses are nonessential and are easier to cut back on. Ask yourself: Am I spending too much money on these discretionary expenses? Are you finding it difficult to pay bills because of going on vacation, for instance? Or do you really need the designer shoes or the latest gaming system? Check for things you do not use. This may mean a gaming site subscription you have not used in months, or a gym you do not go to, or cancelling cable because you watch everything online. There are admittedly a few grey areas, such as a gym membership or a nice wardrobe that may be necessary for your professional career. These may not need cutting, but worth scrutinizing. Review your spending for the past quarter (three-month period). Look at your credit card and bank statements as well as cash expenditures to see where your money goes. Take note of even little things like a coffee, a postage stamp, or a meal on the go. You may be surprised by how much you end up spending in just one week or in one month. If possible, look at data compiled over the course of a year. Most financial planners would review entire year of expenditures before making recommendations. Discretionary expenses can end up taking up a large percentage of your pay cheque or allowance. Recording them will give you a sense of where you can cut back on your spending. Take note of how much you spend on wants versus needs (for example, drinks at a bar versus groceries for the week). Figure out what percentage of your expenses are fixed versus discretionary. Fixed expenses remain the same each month, while discretionary expenses are malleable. Keep your receipts. This is a good way to track how much you spend on certain things every day. Rather than toss your receipts, keep them so you can record exactly how much you spent on an item or a meal. This way, if you end up overspending for the month, you can pinpoint exactly when and where you spent your money. Try to use less cash and instead use your credit or debit card, which can be tracked. Credit card balances should be paid in full each month if possible. Use a budget planner to assess your spending. A budget planner is a program that calculates how much your expenses are for a year and how much your income will be for a year. It will then tell you how much you can afford to spend in a given year, based on your expenses. Ask yourself: Do I spend more than I earn? If you are dipping into your savings to pay for your rent every month or using your credit card to pay for shopping sprees every month, you are spending more than you earn. This can only lead to greater debt and less savings. So, be honest about your spending every month and make sure you only spend as much as you earn. This means factoring in money every month for expenses and savings. You can also use budget apps to help track your spending on a day-to-day basis. Download a budget app to your phone and record your purchases right after you make them. Create a budget and stick to it. Determine what your basic expenses will add up to every month to make sure you don't spend money you don't have. These likely include: Rent and utilities. Depending on your living situation, you may be splitting these expenses with a roommate or a partner. Your landlord may also pay for your heat, or you may pay for your electricity every month. Transportation. Are you walking to work every day? Biking? Taking the bus? Carpooling? Food. Factor the average amount per a week for meals for the month. Health care. It is important you have health insurance in the event of an incident or accident, as paying out of pocket will likely be more expensive than being covered. Do some research online to find the best insurance rates. Miscellaneous expenses. If you have a pet, this could be where you determine how much pet food will be for the month. If you and your partner go for a date night once a month, factor this in as an expense. Account for every expense you can think of so you do not spend money without knowing exactly where it is going. If you have any debt payments, add these to your budget under necessary expenses. Go shopping with a goal in mind. A goal could be: new socks to replace your holey pairs. Or, replacing your broken cellphone. Having a goal when shopping, especially for discretionary items, will stop you from spontaneous purchases. Focuses on one essential item when shopping also gives you a clear budget for your shopping trip. When food shopping, look at recipes beforehand and make a grocery list. This way, when you are in the store, you can stick to the list and know exactly how you are going to use every ingredient you buy. If you have a hard time sticking to a grocery list, try online grocery shopping. This will allow you to keep a running total of your purchases and be aware of exactly what you are spending. Don’t get sucked into sales. Ah, the irresistible lure of a deal! Retailers are counting on their customers to get sucked in by the sales rack. It's important to resist the temptation to justify a buy just because its on sale. Even big discounts can mean big spending. Instead, your only two considerations when shopping should be: do I need this item? And does this item fit within my budget? If the answer is no to these questions, it may be best to leave the item in the store and save your money on an item you need, rather than want, even if its on sale. Leave your credit cards at home. Only take the cash you need, based on your budget, to get through the week. That way, you will have to walk away from an unnecessary purchase if you have already spent all your cash. If you do end up taking your credit card with you, treat it like a debit card. This way, every cent you spend on your credit card feels like money will have to pay back every month. Treating your credit card like a debit card means you won't be so hasty to whip it out for every purchase. Eat at home and bring your lunch. Eating out can get very expensive, especially if you're spending $10-$15 a day, 3-4 times a week. Limit your eating out to once a week and then gradually, to once a month. You should notice how much money you save when you buy groceries and cook for yourself. You will also appreciate a nice meal out for a special occasion that much more. Bring your lunch to work every day, rather than shell out money for lunch. Take 10 minutes at night before bed or in the morning before work to make a sandwich and a snack. You will notice you save quite a bit of money every week by just bringing your lunch. Eat out sensibly. There is nothing wrong with buying lunch once in a while. But be aware of choices that are good deals. Check for lunch specials. Look for coupons. Try buying lunch at the grocery store rather than the chic cafe. Do a Spending Fast. Test your spending habits by only buying what you need for 30 days or one month. See how little you can spend in one month by focusing on buying things you need, rather than things you want. This will help you determine what you consider a necessity and what you consider a nice to have. Beyond the obvious necessities like rent and food, you may reason that a gym membership is a need because it keeps you fit and feeling good. Or a weekly massage to help with your bad back. As long as these needs fit within your budget and you can afford them, you can spend money on them. Go DIY. DIY or Do It Yourself is a great way to learn new skills and save money. There are many DIY blogs and books out that allow you to recreate expensive items with a limited budget. Rather than spend money on an expensive piece of art or a decorative item, make it yourself. This will allow you to create a custom item and stay within your budget. Websites like Pinterest, ispydiy , and A Beautiful Mess all have great DIY ideas for household items. You can also learn how to recycle items you already own and make something new with them, rather than spend money on a new item. Try doing household chores and activities yourself. Shovel your walkway yourself, instead of paying someone else to do it. Get the whole family involved in outdoor chores, like mowing the lawn or cleaning the pool. Make your own household cleaning items and beauty products. Most of these products are made of basic items you can buy at your local grocery store or health food store. Laundry detergent, all purpose cleaner, and even soap can all be made by hand, by you, for cheaper than store prices. Put money aside for a life goal. Work towards a life goal, like traveling to South America or buying a home, by putting aside a set amount of money in your savings account every month. Remind yourself that the money you save by not buying clothing or going out every week will go to a bigger life goal. Understand the characteristics of compulsive shopping. Compulsive shoppers often cannot control their spending habits and become emotional spenders. They "shop till they drop" and then they keep shopping. But compulsive shopping and spending generally makes a person feel worse, rather than better, about themselves. Compulsive shopping usually affects women more than men. Women with compulsive shopping issues usually have racks of clothing with the tags still on them. They will go to the mall with the intention of buying just one item and come home with bags of clothing. Compulsive shopping can be a seasonal balm for depression, anxiety, and loneliness during the holiday season. It can also occur when a person feels depressed, lonely and angry. Recognize the signs of compulsive shopping. Do you go on weekly shopping sprees? Do you continually spend more than you can afford? Do you get a certain rush when you go shopping and buying things you don't need? You may feel a certain "high" when buying many things on a weekly basis. Notice if you have large amounts of debt on your credit card or multiple credit cards. You may also hide your purchases from concerned family members or partners. Or you may try to cover up your spending by taking on a part-time job to supplement your spending habits. Individuals who have a compulsive spending problem will likely be in denial and have a hard time admitting they have a problem. Talk to a therapist. Compulsive shopping is considered an addiction. So talking to a professional therapist or going into a support group for compulsive shoppers are both important ways you can address the issue and work to resolve it. During therapy, you may identify the underlying issues behind your compulsive spending and acknowledge the dangers of over spending. Therapy can also offer healthy alternative ways to cope with your emotional issues. | What non-essentials are you spending a lot on? Review your spending for the past quarter (three-month period). Keep your receipts. Use a budget planner to assess your spending. Create a budget and stick to it. Go shopping with a goal in mind. Don’t get sucked into sales. Leave your credit cards at home. Eat at home and bring your lunch. Do a Spending Fast. Go DIY. Put money aside for a life goal. Understand the characteristics of compulsive shopping. Recognize the signs of compulsive shopping. Talk to a therapist. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Make-a-Model-of-DNA-Using-Common-Materials | How to Make a Model of DNA Using Common Materials | To make a DNA model using supplies you probably already have, take 4 pipe cleaners and cut 2 of them into 2-inch strips. Then, add beads in 2 alternating colors down the length of the full-length pipe cleaners, leaving ½ inch spaces. Next, choose colors to represent cytosine, guanine, thymine, and adenine. Add cytosine-guanine beads to half of the short pipe cleaners, and add the thymine-adenine beads to the other half. Finish by attaching the short pieces to the long pipe cleaners in a ladder shape, then twisting the ends into a helix. | Gather your supplies. You will need at least 4 12 in (30 cm) cleaners, and assorted beads in at least 6 colors. Plastic pony beads work best for this project, although you can use any kind of beads that have a hole wide enough to fit over the pipe cleaners. Each of the 2 pairs of pipe cleaners should be a different color, giving you 4 total pipe cleaners preferably black and orange. One pair will be the phosphate and the other pair will be the deoxyribose. Cut the pipe cleaners. Take 2 pipe cleaners of the same color, and cut them into strips that are 2 inches (5.1 cm) long. You will use these to string your C--G and T--A pairs of beads on. Leave the other 2 pipe cleaners at their full length. Bead the pipe cleaners for the double helix. Use 2 different colors of beads to represent the sugar and phosphate groups, and bead them in alternating colors down each of the full-length pipe cleaners. Be sure that the 2 long strands that form the double helix match up, so that the beads are in the same order. Leave about ⁄ 2 inch (1.3 cm) of space between each bead to allow room to attach the other pieces of pipe cleaner. Bead your nitrogenous bases. Take the other 4 colors of beads, and pair them together. The same 2 colors must always go together, to represent the pairs of cytosine and guanine, and thymine and adenine. Place 1 bead from each pair at the ends of the 2 in (5.1 cm) sections of pipe cleaners. Leave a little room at the ends to wrap around the double helix strands. It doesn't matter what order the beads are placed on the pipe cleaners, as long as they are in the correct pairs. Attach your beaded pipe cleaners together. Take the now beaded 2 in (5.1 cm) sections of pipe cleaner and wrap the ends around the long double helix strands. Space each small piece so they are always attached above a bead of the same color on the side. You should be skipping every-other bead on the double helix strands. The order of small pieces does not matter, it is up to you what way you would like to organize them on the double helix strands. Twist the double helix. Once all of the small sections of beads have been attached, twist the ends of the double helix in a counter-clockwise direction to give the appearance of a true strand of DNA. Enjoy, your model is complete! Gather your supplies. For this version of the project, you will need small styrofoam balls, a needle and thread, paint, and toothpicks. Paint your styrofoam balls. Choose 6 different colors to represent the sugar and phosphate groups, and the 4 nitrogenous bases. They can be any 6 colors of your choice. You will need to paint 16 sugar balls, 14 phosphate balls, and 4 different colors for each of the nitrogenous bases (cytosine, guanine, thymine, and adenine). You could choose to have one of the colors be white, so that you don't have to paint some of the styrofoam. This might be easiest for the sugar balls, as it will greatly reduce your total amount of work. Pair off the nitrogenous bases. Once the paint has dried, designate 1 color for each of the nitrogenous bases, and then pair them with their matching base. Cytosine always goes with guanine, and thymine always goes with adenine. The order of the colors does not matter, as long as they are in the correct pairs. Stick a toothpick between each of the pairs, leaving a little extra space at the sharp ends of the toothpicks. Make the double helix. Using the needle and string, cut a piece that is long enough to go the length of 15 styrofoam balls. Tie a knot at one end of the string, and thread the needle on the other. Line up the styrofoam sugar and phosphate balls, so that they alternate in sets of 15. There should be more sugar balls than phosphate balls. Make sure that the 2 strands of sugar and phosphate are in the same order, so that they line up when placed next to each other. Thread through the centers of each alternating string of styrofoam sugar and phosphate balls. Tie the string off at the end of each strand, to prevent the balls from sliding off. Attach the nitrogenous bases to the double helix strands. Take the toothpicks with your pairs of nitrogenous bases, and stick the sharp end to the matching sugar balls on each long strand. Only attach the pairs to the styrofoam balls representing sugar, as this is how DNA is attached in real life. Make sure that enough of the toothpick is attached to the strands that the pairs of bases will not fall off easily. Twist the double helix. Once all the pairs of toothpick bases have been attached to the sugar, twist the double strands in a counter-clockwise direction to mimic the appearance of a true double helix. Your model is now complete! Select your candy. To make the sugar and phosphate sides, use strands of black and red licorice that have a hollow center. For the nitrogenous bases, use 4 different colored gummy bear candies. Whatever candy you use, make sure that it is soft enough to allow a toothpick to puncture it. If you have them on hand, colored marshmallows are a great substitute for gummy bears. Prepare your other supplies. Gather string and toothpicks to be used in creating the model. The string should be cut to be about 1 foot (30 cm) long, although you can make it longer or shorter based on your preferred size of DNA model. Use 2 pieces of string that are the same length to make the double helix. Make sure you have at least a dozen toothpicks, although you may need a few more or less depending on how large you make your model Cut the licorice. These will be strung on your string in alternating colors and should be cut to 1 inch (2.5 cm) long. Pair off your gummy bears. In a DNA strand, pairs of cytosine and guanine (C and G) are paired together, while pairs of thymine and adenine (T and A) are paired together. Choose 4 different colored gummy bears to represent these nitrogenous bases. It doesn't matter if a pair goes C--G or G--C, as long as those are always the two in a pair. You cannot mix colors between pairs. For example, you cannot combine T--G or A--C. The colors you choose are completely arbitrary and are entirely based on personal preference. String your licorice. Take the 2 pieces of string and tie a knot in the bottom of each to prevent the licorice from slipping off. Then, thread the string through the hollow centers of the licorice in alternating colors. The 2 colors of licorice symbolize the sugar and phosphate that make up the double helix strands. Choose one color to be the sugar group; your gummy bear nitrogenous bases will be attaching to this color of licorice. Make sure that your 2 strands have licorice in the same order so that they line up when placed next to each other. Tie another knot to the other end of the string once you have finished adding all your licorice pieces. Attach your gummy bears with toothpicks. Once you have paired off all your gummy bears in the C--G and T--A groups, use a toothpick and stick 1 bear from each pair at the ends of the toothpicks. Push the gummy bears far enough on each toothpick that at least ⁄ 4 inch (0.64 cm) of the sharp end is still sticking out. You can have more of some pairs than others; the number of pairs in real life DNA determines differences and changes in the genes they form. Attach your gummy bears to the licorice. Lay out your 2 licorice strands flat on a smooth surface, and then attach the gummy bear toothpicks to the licorice by inserting the sharp ends into the licorice. You should be attaching the toothpicks only to the “sugar” molecules that you decided on. These are all the pieces of licorice in the same color (for example, all the red pieces). Use all your gummy bear toothpicks, don't worry about saving any. Twist your double helix. Once you have attached all your gummy bear toothpicks to the licorice, twist the strands in a counter-clockwise direction to give the spiral appearance of a true double helix. Enjoy your completed DNA model! | Gather your supplies. Cut the pipe cleaners. Bead the pipe cleaners for the double helix. Bead your nitrogenous bases. Attach your beaded pipe cleaners together. Twist the double helix. Gather your supplies. Paint your styrofoam balls. Pair off the nitrogenous bases. Make the double helix. Attach the nitrogenous bases to the double helix strands. Twist the double helix. Select your candy. Prepare your other supplies. Cut the licorice. Pair off your gummy bears. String your licorice. Attach your gummy bears with toothpicks. Attach your gummy bears to the licorice. Twist your double helix. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Take-Care-of-Black-Girls%27-Hair | How to Take Care of Black Girls' Hair | f you're a girl with black hair, make sure to use a shampoo meant for ethnic hair so it doesn't become too dry. Try to wash your hair no more than once every 1-2 weeks. Alternatively, if you have particularly dry hair, you can wash your hair with conditioner every 3-5 days to keep it healthy and manageable. After you wash your hair, comb it carefully with a wide tooth comb from the ends to the roots to prevent damage. At night, try sleeping with a satin or silk pillowcase to prevent frizz. You can also apply a moisturizing serum or coconut oil to the ends of your hair to keep it moisturized and healthy. | Wash your hair once every 1 to 2 weeks. The more often you wash your hair, the more you strip it of its moisture. This results in dry, brittle hair. You should wash your hair every 7 to 10 days, but you can get away with washing it once every 14 days. This will help prevent dryness and product buildup. If you can't find a shampoo and conditioner meant for ethnic hair, try to use a moisturizing shampoo meant for dry hair. Follow up with a moisturizing conditioner. If you must wash your hair more often, dilute your shampoo with 50% water and 50% shampoo. Consider washing your hair with just conditioner every 3 to 5 days. This is also known as "co-washing." It will help moisturize your hair, and keep it manageable. Co-washing is especially great for natural curls, as it keeps the hair less frizzy, more defined, and better moisturized. You can help further seal the moisture in with a natural oil of your choosing. Step things up a bit by using a deep conditioning mask once a week to twice a month. Focus the conditioner on the ends of your hair; avoid applying it to your scalp. Applying conditioner to your scalp will cause your hair to appear greasy. It will also weigh down your strands. Use a moisturizing conditioner with lightweight, essential oils. Oils like grape seed oil, are more easily absorbed by hair than products like lanolin, which will only clog and weigh hair down. Lightweight oils will moisturize your hair and make it shiny, but they won't weigh it down. Don't use products that contain silicones and sulfates. Silicones are great for making hair nice and smooth, but they can only be removed with sulfates, a harsh cleaning agent that leads to dry hair. If you don't remove the silicones from your hair properly, your hair will get too much build-up, and end up looking dull, greasy, and lanky. Fortunately, there are lots of ways to make your hair nice and silky without using silicones, including nourishing masks and coconut oil. These products are easily washed out of your hair, without any dryness or brittleness. Consider using products with "organic" ingredients over products with "natural" ingredients. Organic products are strictly regulated from farming to harvesting. This means that ingredients such as avocado, coconut, and shea were grown without the use of toxic chemicals, antibiotics, and pesticides that are harmful to humans and animals. These toxic chemicals can potentially harm your hair. The term "natural" is used very loosely by corporations. An orange soda can be natural because it has an orange flavoring that once shared a compound of a fruit. High fructose corn syrup is considered "natural" just like "petrolatum." Comb carefully using a wide tooth comb. Always start from the ends of your hair first; never comb straight down from the roots. Avoid using brushes, as they will only make your hair frizzy. Lastly, avoid combing your hair every day; detangle it when necessary with your fingers. Excessive combing will break your hair off. Make sure your hair is slightly damp before you detangle. Hair is very vulnerable when wet, so if you just washed it, let it dry a little first. Consider using a comb attachment when blow-drying your hair. Let your hair air-dry a little first, then gently blow dry your hair using a comb attachment. This will reduce the amount of pulling and tugging, which can lead to breakage. Comb attachments can also help speed up the drying process for tightly coiled natural hair. Comb attachments help stretch and straighten natural curls, so they're great if you plan on using a flat iron after drying. Instead of air drying, you can also sit under a dryer. Avoid heat styling when possible, and use a lower temperature and a heat protectant spray when you do. Add the spray to your hair while it is still wet; this will help make it more effective. When styling your hair, hold the curling iron or flat iron slightly open while passing it over your hair. This way, you will avoid tugging and pulling your hair, which can lead to breakage Try to limit heat styling to two times a month maximum. Try to use the lowest temperature possible and avoid going too hot. Heat protectant sprays can only do so much. Opt for ceramic flat irons over metal ones. They will be gentler on your hair. Heat protectants come in many forms, other than sprays, including: shampoo, conditioners, creams, and serums. Avoid using high-stress hairstyles for long periods of time. Tight ponytails and tight braids can look chic, but they also put a lot of stress on your hair and scalp. Overtime, they can create crimps and breakage in hair. They can also stress the hair follicles, and cause thinning along the hairline. Braids, cornrows, and weaves should not hurt. If they start to hurt, they are too tight, and are damaging your hair. Avoid using rubber bands when styling your hair, as they can cause tears and breakage. Instead, use a ponytail holder without a metal clip. Choose sewn-in weaves over glued-in weaves. They are much better at protecting your natural hair against heat styling and outdoor elements. Glued-in weaves can rip out your natural hair upon removal, thus damaging it. If you do choose a glued-in weave, you can protect your natural hair by placing a stocking cap over it, then gluing the weave onto the stocking cap. If you are using a weave, visit your stylist every 2 to 3 weeks to ensure that it stays tight. A loose weave can tug on your hair and damage it. Change your weave every 1½ and 3 months. Let your hair rest for a few weeks after two consecutive weaves. Use caution when relaxing your hair, and only do it once every 2 to 3 months. Try to get your hair relaxed professionally. If you do it at home, read the instructions carefully to prevent any damage. You should only apply relaxer to new growth, and never to hair that has already been relaxed. If you apply relaxer to previously relaxed hair, you will over-process it and damage it. Also, never leave the relaxer on the hair too long; this will cause serious damage and possible hair loss. When relaxing your hair, add some natural oil, like olive oil, to previously relaxed hair. This way, you won't accidentally over-process it. You can also use a conditioner or a pre-relaxer treatment to protect previously relaxed strands if you'd prefer to not use oil. Some stylists will recommend a touch-up every 6 weeks; that unnecessary, and actually very bad for your hair. You should get a touch-up every 2 to 3 months. Look at the ingredients: if it has too many long chemical names, try to stay away from it. Let your hair go natural every once in a while for a few weeks. This is especially important if you are using high-stress hairstyles, such as weaves, cornrows, and braids. While fashionable, these styles put a lot of strain on your hair. Let your hair go natural for a week or two in between styles so that it can relax. If you must do something with your hair, consider wrapping a scarf or headband around it, or adding in a cute hair clip. Sleep on a satin or silk pillowcase to prevent frizz, breakage, and dryness. This way, your hair can stay healthy and won't break or tear. Cotton pillowcases tend to snag hair and create tiny rips and tears. They also tend to suck the moisture out of your hair, which can make it even more frizzy and brittle. Satin or silk pillowcases are also great for skin, as they don't draw out moisture the way cotton pillowcases do. Wash the silk pillowcases once a week. You can do it by hand or using a washing machine. Check the label before washing them. If you can't get a satin or silk pillowcase, consider tying your hair up at night with a satin or silk scarf instead. Moisturize the ends of your hair. You can use a moisturizing serum, or you can use a natural oil, such as coconut oil, castor oil, or olive oil. This will help prevent your hair from getting dry, snagging on things, and breaking. It will also help prevent split or damaged ends. Apply some oil to natural hair every day and straightened/relaxed hair twice a week. Look for products that contain natural oils, such as almond, Argan, coconut, and jojoba. You can also just use natural oils straight from the bottle instead. Skip products with petrolatum, lanolin, and mineral oils. They will only dry your hair out and stop moisture from penetrating the shaft. A little bit of oil goes a long way. Start with a small amount, about the size of a dime, and add more as necessary. After washing your hair, apply a moisturizing leave-in conditioner, then add the oil of your choice. This seal in moisture and ensure that your hair stays healthy. Try a protein treatment. Protein will make your hair less prone to breakage and over-moisturizing. Your hair will be a lot shinier too. Be careful not to overuse protein in your hair otherwise it will start to snap off. You can use a store-bought treatment or try your hand at making a DIY hair mask at home. Use a hot oil treatment twice a month to add moisture and elasticity to your hair. Heat ½ to 1 cup (120 to 240 milliliters) of oil in a double-boiler or a jar in a pot of hot water. Part your hair into several sections, then use an applicator bottle to apply the oil. Massage the oil into your hair and scalp, then cover your hair with a shower cap for 30 minutes. Once the time is up, wash your hair as usual with shampoo. If you don't want to warm up the oil in advance, you can apply it then sit under a hooded hair dryer for 30 minutes while wearing a shower cap. Don't use a microwave to heat the oil, or it will lose its nutrients. If you don't have a shower cap, you can wrap a damp, warm towel around your hair instead. You can use any of the following oils: Argan, avocado, castor, coconut, jojoba, olive, sesame, and sweet almond. Trim your split ends as soon as possible. Even healthy hair is prone to getting split ends, so be sure to check your hair for them regularly. The longer you leave them unchecked, the further the damage will creep up the hair shaft. Don't reply on "split end mending" serums, at they are only temporary fixes; they are not permanent and will not mend your split ends. | Wash your hair once every 1 to 2 weeks. Consider washing your hair with just conditioner every 3 to 5 days. Use a moisturizing conditioner with lightweight, essential oils. Don't use products that contain silicones and sulfates. Consider using products with "organic" ingredients over products with "natural" ingredients. Comb carefully using a wide tooth comb. Consider using a comb attachment when blow-drying your hair. Avoid heat styling when possible, and use a lower temperature and a heat protectant spray when you do. Avoid using high-stress hairstyles for long periods of time. Choose sewn-in weaves over glued-in weaves. Use caution when relaxing your hair, and only do it once every 2 to 3 months. Let your hair go natural every once in a while for a few weeks. Sleep on a satin or silk pillowcase to prevent frizz, breakage, and dryness. Moisturize the ends of your hair. Apply some oil to natural hair every day and straightened/relaxed hair twice a week. Try a protein treatment. Use a hot oil treatment twice a month to add moisture and elasticity to your hair. Trim your split ends as soon as possible. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Do-the-Sharpshooter | How to Do the Sharpshooter | Before you do the sharpshooter, keep in mind that the move shouldn't cause you or your partner any discomfort and that doing the move incorrectly can cause serious back injury. To get started, place your opponent on their back. Then, grab their feet and lift their legs, stepping through their legs with your dominant foot. Next, cross your opponent's legs over your leg so one of their ankles is tucked in your armpit. Once their legs are secure, turn and step over their body so they roll over. Finally, squat down, making sure you're supporting your own weight and not sitting on your opponent. | Place your opponent on their back in the center of the ring. To do the move correctly, you have to start by positioning your opponent so that they'll be far from the ropes to make the submission hold more believable. In general, the move is applied in the center of the ring so the opponent may not grab the ropes to break the hold. It's common to drag or otherwise place your opponent in the center for this reason. Pro wrestling moves are intricately choreographed maneuvers that need to be performed in a wrestling ring by two wrestlers who are communicating and working together. The sharpshooter is a move that looks devastating when performed correctly, but should cause absolutely no discomfort. Done incorrectly, you risk causing serious back injury. Lift your opponent's legs by gripping the arches of the feet. Take each foot in your hand and hold them about waist-level, forming a "V" with your opponent's legs. Step through with your dominant leg. If you're right-legged, step through the V of your opponent's legs and put your right foot on the mat next to his abdomen. Continue holding on to his feet. You can do the move to either side by stepping through with either leg. Bret Hart always stepped through with his left leg, so technically, doing the sharpshooter means you should go to your left. However, the move is the same no matter which side you roll toward; the only difference involves the order in which you cross the opponent's legs, discussed in the next step. Cross your opponent's legs around your leg, starting with the near the leg. If you stepped to the right, cross the opponent's leg to your right (his left leg) over your thigh, then cross the other leg (his right leg) over it. Tuck the right ankle in your armpit, as you could for a front face lock, gripping it firmly. Always start with the leg on the side toward which you stepped. If you step through with your left leg, cross your opponent's right leg first. Pivot and roll your opponent over by stepping across. If you started the move with your right leg, turn and step over your opponent's body, rolling them over in the process. This should be a cooperative move: as you support your opponent's legs, he should flail his arms as if trying to resist, but should be shifting weight to roll over comfortably. This would be very difficult to do if your opponent dead-weighted, or resisted. Squat and support your own weight. Lean back into a squatting position while still holding onto both of their legs. Support your opponent's knee with your hand. You should squat just above your opponent's buttocks. Wrestlers will often rehearse such submission holds in the mirror while at the gym, to get a sense of how it should look. Don't pull back on your opponent's legs, but do pretend to pull back by straining your face and throwing your head back. The believability of the move depends on your making it look like you're pulling hard, but not. Under no circumstances should you sit with all your weight on your opponent's buttocks or back. This is an absolutely essential aspect of the move. While it looks like Bret Hart is sitting and cinching the move in, he's really doing a deep squat, supporting his own weight. It takes a lot of core and lower-body strength to support the weight of your opponent's legs and your own weight while squatting. Help roll over. Don't just lay there like a sandbag. As the receiver of the sharpshooter, help to hold your legs up as much as possible and make it easier by shifting your weight up on your elbow and shoulder as you're being rolled. Depending on the story being told, it might be important to also give the appearance of struggling. Wave your free arm around and put a pained look of fear on your face. It'll look much better. Sell it. Once you've been rolled over, you've got to start acting. Scream and holler like it's painful, like you're having your legs pulled out of their sockets. Lots of wrestlers will grab their heads, bang on the mat, and start crawling for the ropes. If you just lay there, the move doesn't look good. In a certain way, it's mostly on you to make or break the move. If the match calls for you to tap out–to give up–don't do it right away. Give off the impression like you're trying to hold out, you're trying to get out of it, and you don't want to give the match up. Then tap on your opponent's leg three times, reluctantly, signaling your withdrawal. Check out "Stone Cold" Steve Austin's sell of the sharpshooter at Wrestlemania 13 for inspiration. It's one of the iconic images of wrestling. Work on the common reverses and escapes. Just because you're wrapped up in a submission hold doesn't mean the only option is for you to tap out. There are less clear-cut reversals than in some other submission holds, but there are a few you can work out with your opponent, depending on whether or not the story calls for it. Head for the ropes. The best way to break the sharpshooter is to grab hold of one of the ring ropes, which will give your opponent until the count of five to break the hold, or he will be disqualified. If you're in the center of the ring, get up on your elbows and start crawling, dragging your opponent with you. Intestinal fortitude to the max. Straighten your legs. Work with your opponent to power out of the sharpshooter by straightening your legs and pushing his torso toward the ground. If you work together, you could even shift into a roll-over pinning combination. Grab his ankle and flip into your own sharpshooter. If you can reach back and get your opponent off his feet, you'll release the weight and be able to stand up. Now, he'll be in position for the sharpshooter, or another Boston-Crab-type submission hold. Try the Scorpion Death Lock. Wrestler Sting used the same basic hold as a finishing maneuver, with subtle differences. The Scorpion Death Lock always rolls to the right, for example, and typically Sting will make a big deal out of rolling over the opponent slowly, whereas Bret Hart cinches it in quickly. While Sting rolls it over, he points with his other hand straight up at the sky and yells out to the crowd, cheering wildly, before squatting. According to wrestling lore, Bret Hart actually learned the move when a backstage employee suggested that he try out the wrestler Sting's finishing move as a submission hold, making the Scorpion Death Lock the original iteration of the hold. Try the inverted sharpshooter or "Edgecator. " One of the patented moves of the "Rated R Superstar" Edge, the Educator was basically a half-completed sharpshooter. To do the move, wrap up your opponent's legs as normal, and start turning over, but stop halfway. Instead of throwing your leg over, drop down on one knee, so your opponent is on his shoulder, giving the appearance of being bent sideways. Have your opponent support his weight on his shoulder, essentially doing a side-bridge. It takes abdominal muscles of steel but looks great. Try the double-cross sharpshooter. In pro wrestling, the sharpshooter has become synonymous with controversy surrounding the 1997 Survivor Series match commonly known as the "Montreal Screwjob," in which Bret Hart–unbeknownst to him–lost after being put in his own finishing move. Because of this, the sharpshooter is the go-to move if something shady is going on in the match. Using the sharpshooter can be a tip of the hat to that still-controversial finish. | Place your opponent on their back in the center of the ring. Lift your opponent's legs by gripping the arches of the feet. Step through with your dominant leg. Cross your opponent's legs around your leg, starting with the near the leg. Pivot and roll your opponent over by stepping across. Squat and support your own weight. Help roll over. Sell it. Work on the common reverses and escapes. Try the Scorpion Death Lock. Try the inverted sharpshooter or "Edgecator. Try the double-cross sharpshooter. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Design-a-Rabbit-Playground | How to Design a Rabbit Playground | If you want to design a playground for your rabbit, make an enclosed area that's at least 32 square feet. The more room you give your rabbit, the happier it will be! To create this space, you can use things like stackable rabbit condos, puppy pens, and cubes. Once you have the basic area set up, make sure there are dark, cozy nooks for your rabbit to hide and sleep in. Since rabbits love to burrow, add some dirt or garden soil to a space in the playground. They also love to explore and play, so put in toys and tunnels like wooden chew toys, plastic baby toys, PVC piping, and toilet paper rolls for some extra fun. To give your rabbit something to snack on in its playground, spread a layer of hay on the ground, which it can use to keep warm while nesting too. To ensure your rabbit stays healthy while in its playground, add a cat litter pan for it to use for toileting. | Recognize the difference between a rabbitat and a cage. You can use your rabbit playground as housing for your rabbit, or it may be part of daily playtime. In general, a rabbitat is a larger, more open space that provides elements such as grazing space, foraging opportunities, and hiding spots. Cages may be smaller and a space in which you house the rabbit when you're away. Consider using an enclosed playground instead of a cage. The more room your rabbit has to play, the happier it is. This also integrates your rabbit more effectively into your family. Use pre-fabricated cubes, puppy pens, and stackable rabbit condos for the playground. You can also order pre-fabricated rabbit playgrounds or even boxes you have around the house. These differ from cages in their spatial dimensions and what they offer a rabbit for hiding, climbing, and foraging spaces. Consider available space. Rabbits naturally jump around in the wild. They also like to spend time underground. Your rabbitat will need enough space for jumping and burrowing. Ideally, your rabbitat should be at least 32 square feet. Designate space within a room or an entire room for your rabbit playground. If you live in a small home or an apartment, you may want to invest in stackable hutches, cubes, or condos. These allow you to offer plenty of space for jumping and hiding as well as a litter pan. Make sure your designated space is in a cooler spot. Rabbits are very sensitive to heat and don't like direct sunlight. Bedding you add can keep your rabbit warm if the room or weather is cooler. Provide cozy nooks. Rabbits are most active at dawn and dusk. Because of this, they often sleep during the day. Incorporate dark, cool, and cozy spaces in the playground for your rabbit to sleep. These also provide an area to hide if your rabbit feels threatened. Use boxes or hutches as sleeping spaces. These provide shade and darkness that allow your rabbit to sleep and hide. They also offer cozy nooks and corners that your rabbit can cuddle into. Place a dark cloth over the playground if you're using stackable pieces. This can provide necessary shade and darkness for your rabbit to sleep and hide. You can use an old sheet or purchase a cover specifically designed for rabbit housing and playgrounds. Leave a space for a litter pan. Rabbits are very clean animals. They generally choose one specific area for toileting. Make sure you allot sufficient space for your bunny's litter pan for its health and happiness. Use a cat litter pan for your bunny. Rabbit litter boxes are often too small to make a bunny comfortable. Secure the playground. No matter if your rabbit playground is indoor or outdoor, keeping it secure is very important. This can prevent your rabbit from escaping or other animals from preying on your pet. It also ensures that your rabbit can hide if it is scared. Rabbits can die of fright if a predator is visible at close range. Make sure any latches on the playground are secure. Check to see that your bunny can't jump out of the playground if it is exposed to the open air. Avoid leaving your rabbit unsupervised in the playground if it is not the primary housing. This can prevent your rabbit from injury or other harm. Consider time for play when outfitting the rabbitat. Take a moment to consider how much time a rabbit needs in a play every day to stay happy and healthy. This can help you decide where to splurge and save on the playground. Your rabbit should spend at least 5 hours a day in the rabbitat to promote its health and happiness. Add some dirt. Rabbits live in warrens in the wild. These are underground networks of interconnecting burrows and tunnels. Adding dirt or garden soil to the rabbitat provides extra fun for your rabbit and allows it to indulge its natural behaviors. Designate a space in your outdoor rabbit playground for dirt. Make a small pile of regular garden soil for your rabbit to enjoy. Fill a small litter pan with dirt if your rabbit playground is inside your home. This can provide your rabbit with the enjoyment of burrowing while containing the mess to one area. Spread a layer of hay on the ground. Hay is a key component to any rabbit's diet and well-being. It provides something to munch on as well as nesting material for warmth. Adding a layer of Timothy or mixed grass hay can help keep your rabbit happy and healthy. You can find mixed grass and Timothy hay at pet stores, most large retailers, and many hardware or farming stores. Use alfalfa hay if you prefer. However, it's higher in calories and calcium than mixed grass or Timothy hay, which can promote weight gain. Make sure there is plenty of hay in the rabbitat's sleeping space. This keeps your rabbit cozy and warm. Place greens and flowers in the playground. Rabbits don't need greens as a major part of their diet. However, fresh cut greens and flowers do have dietary and emotional benefits for rabbits. Add a variety of upright greens and flowers so that your rabbit can stand up and stretch to reach the leaves, just like it would do in nature. Make sure that your rabbit doesn't get more than a handful of greens every day. The following greens and flowers are safe for rabbits: Alfalfa, radish, and clover sprouts Beet greens Cilantro Dandelion greens and flowers Mint Mustard Greens Pea pods Parsley Peppermint leaves Raspberry leaves Wheat grass Daisy Marigold Cornflower Sunflower Lavender Rose Provide clean food and water. Rabbits need fresh food and water every day. This helps maintain their health and happiness. In addition to any greens you place in the rabbitat, make sure that your rabbit also has readily accessible clean food and water every day. Feed your rabbit high quality food such as alfalfa or Timothy-based pellets. In addition, give the rabbit one cup of vegetables for every 4 pounds of body weight. Some vegetables rabbits like include bok choy, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, carrots, celery, spinach, and watercress. Treat your rabbit to 1-2 tablespoons of fruit per 5 pounds of body weight. Fruits rabbits enjoy include apples, melons, peaches, pineapple, plums, and raspberries. Up the fun factor with toys and tunnels. Your rabbitat should have spaces for tunneling, grazing, exploring, climbing, climbing, chewing, hiding, and perching. Your choices of hutches and condos provide ample opportunity for these. You can increase your bunny's enjoyment by adding toys and more tunnels to the playground. Set PVC piping and/ or toilet or paper towel rolls for additional tunneling options. Paper bags also provide good tunneling options. Provide wooden chew toys for flinging, chewing, pulling, and batting. Untreated wicker baskets and wood branches also make great chew toys. Consider plastic cat and baby toys that your rabbit can push over and make noise. Metal lids are a great alternative to toys. Place a couple of old towels in the playground for your rabbit to bunch up and scoot around with its paws. Just make sure the rabbit doesn't eat the towel. | Recognize the difference between a rabbitat and a cage. Consider available space. Provide cozy nooks. Leave a space for a litter pan. Secure the playground. Consider time for play when outfitting the rabbitat. Add some dirt. Spread a layer of hay on the ground. Place greens and flowers in the playground. Provide clean food and water. Up the fun factor with toys and tunnels. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Apply-for-an-Australian-Student-Visa | How to Apply for an Australian Student Visa | To apply for an Australian Student Visa, create an account on the Australian Home Affairs website, complete their online form, and pay the $575 AUD fee. After completing the form, you'll need to submit a copy of your official admissions letter from your Australian university to prove that you're a student. Next, write a Genuine Temporary Entrant requirement statement and provide proof that you've purchased Overseas Student Health Cover. Finally, include your bank statement or scholarship information to show that you can afford the average yearly cost of living in Australia. | Obtain proof of acceptance at an Australian university study program. The program should be registered by the Commonwealth Register of Institutions of Courses for Overseas Students (CRICOS). You will need to have a copy of an official admissions letter to prove this. Write your Genuine Temporary Entrant (GTE) requirement statement. The GTE requirement is a protective measure taken by the Australian government to make sure you are requesting the student visa for a legitimate reason. You will have to turn in a written personal statement (in English) that acknowledges this requirement. Make it clear that you are applying for this visa for the genuine motive of receiving a quality education. In your GTE personal statement, you can explain why you are choosing to study in Australia instead of your home country. Describe why you have chosen this particular course and how you imagine it will help your future. Explain ties to your home country, such as family members and friends- this will show that you have an incentive to return to your country after your study. Include information about how you plan to sustain yourself financially in Australia and your planned living arrangements. You should also use your statement to provide information about your previous schooling, including any academic transcripts and diplomas. Provide details about your current employment and give contact details for someone who can verify your employment. Prove you have adequate health insurance. To get approved for a student visa, you must purchase Overseas Student Health Cover (OSHC). OSHC provides medical and hospital insurance in Australia for the duration of your visa. When you apply, you will need to submit the name of your health insurance provider and the date that your policy starts and ends. You can purchase OSHC directly through your university or through one of the five approved providers: Australian Health Management, BUPA Australia, Medibank Private, Allianz Global Assistance and nib. The cost of the health insurance will depend on the provider and duration of your program. You will not need OSHC if you are a Norwegian student covered by the Norwegian National Insurance Scheme, a Swedish student covered by Kammarkollegiet, or a Belgian student covered under the Reciprocal Health Care Agreement with Australia. Obtain proof of your English proficiency. Anyone entering Australia on a student visa needs to be proficient in English language skills. You will need to provide your IELTS, Cambridge Advanced and TOEFL test scores. If you are from an English-speaking country (the United States, Great Britain, or Canada), you can disregard this step. Show that you have the financial resources to stay in Australia. You must have the financial capacity to stay in Australia and pay for your courses. You will have to prove that you have funds to cover travel to Australia, 12 months' living, and schooling costs. You can do this simply by providing a bank statement. The amount you need to live in Australia is estimated to be around $20,290 AUD ($15,330 USD) per year. This is not including travel and tuition costs. If you are receiving a full funding scholarship, you will just need to show proof of this. Provide proof of character. The Australian government is looking to see that you are of good character, meaning that your record is free of criminal activity. On your application, you may have to answer some character-related questions. If you have any recorded offenses, you must declare these in a formal statement with your application. In certain cases, you may be asked to provide a police certificate, also known as a penal clearance certificate. You could also be asked to fill out a Character Statutory Declaration form. If you have to complete these additional documents, you will be contacted after you submit your application. It's not something you need to worry about right now. Prepare all of your documents for online uploading. If you have any hard copy documents, such as a college diploma, you will need to scan them to your desktop computer. Compile all of your documents in one place so you are ready to apply. Make sure your documents are in an accepted file format such as a PDF or Word document. Go to the Australian Home Affairs website. Visit the application website: https://online.immi.gov.au/lusc/login. Register an account with ImmiAccount. This is the account you will use to complete and submit your application. For first time registration, you will have to provide your full name, phone number, and email address. If you already have an account, log in with your email address and password. Pay the application fee through your ImmiAccount portal. You have to pay this fee, or else your application will not be processed. It costs $575 AUD ($424 USD) to apply for an Australian student visa. This can be paid through your ImmiAccount portal. Payments can be made using credit cards, Paypal, or BPay. Fill out the health form on ImmiAccount. To study in Australia, you need to meet Australia's health requirements. Complete a My Health Declarations electronic form, available on the health assessment tab of your ImmiAccount. On this form, you will be asked various questions that assess your current health. After submitting this form, you will either be contacted to undergo further health assessments, or not. The process of health assessment can take up to several weeks, so it's a good idea to start your My Health Declarations form prior to submitting the rest of your application. Complete the student visa application form. Fill out your official application on ImmiAccount under the application tab. This is where you will attach all of your documents and include all necessary personal information, such as name, birthdate, and contact details. You will also have to provide a passport number. On the application, you may need to disclose your recent academic and employment history. Upon submitting the form, you will be given a Transaction Reference Number (TRN), which you can use to track and manage your application. Wait for your application to be processed. It typically takes around 4 weeks for the visa application to be processed. You will be notified in writing whether or not you have been granted the visa. If you have been approved, you now can enter Australia to attend your program. You may be asked to provide additional information or attend an interview before your application can be approved. | Obtain proof of acceptance at an Australian university study program. Write your Genuine Temporary Entrant (GTE) requirement statement. Prove you have adequate health insurance. Obtain proof of your English proficiency. Show that you have the financial resources to stay in Australia. Provide proof of character. Prepare all of your documents for online uploading. Go to the Australian Home Affairs website. Register an account with ImmiAccount. Pay the application fee through your ImmiAccount portal. Fill out the health form on ImmiAccount. Complete the student visa application form. Wait for your application to be processed. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Make-a-Recycled-Bird-Feeder | How to Make a Recycled Bird Feeder | To make a recycled bird feeder, start by using a thumbtack to poke 2 holes in a plastic bottle on opposite sides near the bottom. Then, widen the holes with a pair of scissors, and insert a dowel rod, pencil, or wooden chopstick through one hole and out the other to create a perch. Next, poke a few drainage holes in the bottom of the bottle, and cut out several feeding holes above the perch so birds can access the food inside. Finally, poke 2 holes near the neck of the bottle, and thread twine through them so you can hang up your bird feeder. | Prep the bottle. Wash it out and remove any labels. For this craft, use any size plastic bottle as long as it still has its lid. Rinse out the bottle with warm soapy water. Remove the label from the outside of the bottle, and scrub away any residual glue. Let the bottle dry completely before you proceed. If the bottle is not dry, the moisture can cause the bird feed to get moldy. Use a thumbtack to create 2 holes near the base of the bottle. Place the holes opposite each other about 1 in (2.5 cm) from the bottom. Press hard on the thumbtack to puncture the plastic completely. Using a thumbtack is safer than using a knife and reduces the chance of accidentally cutting yourself. These 2 holes will create the space for the first perch. Widen the holes with a pair of scissors. Place the tip of the scissors into each hole and twist them to widen the holes. Whether you're using pencils, dowel rods, or any other stick, make sure the perch can fit through the hole. Avoid making the holes too wide, or the perch will slip out of place when it's in use. Create a perch for the birds. After you've created and widened the holes, take a dowel rod, a pencil, or something similar, and push it through both holes. This creates the first perch on your bird feeder. Make both sides of the perch equal so that the bird feeder will be balanced. Wooden chopsticks work well for this part of the project. Add one perch 2 to 3 in (5.1 to 7.6 cm) above the first. Make the next set of holes at 90° to the first, so that it forms a cross shape. Push the thumbtack through the bottle then widen the holes with scissors. Insert a dowel to create the second perch. If you're using a large bottle, add 2 to 3 more perches. Just make sure to alternate the angles so that there is enough space for the birds. Put in draining holes. Pierce the bottom of the bottle 3 to 4 times with a thumbtack to allow water to drain out of the container. After sticking the thumbtack in, wiggle it around so that the hole is larger than it if you just pushed it in and removed it. Avoid making the drain holes too big or the birdseed will fall through the holes. Cut out feeding holes for birds to access the feed. About 1 to 2 in (2.5 to 5.1 cm) above each perch, use your scissors to cut out a small ⁄ 2 to 1 in (1.3 to 2.5 cm) wide hole. Depending on the bottle size and the size of the birdseed, you may be able to make these holes a little larger. It's okay if the circles aren't perfect. Just make them big enough for a bird's beak and enough to keep the birdseed in. Create 2 holes at the neck of the bottle. Place the holes opposite each other using a thumbtack. With scissors, slightly widen the holes enough for twine to pass through them. With a large bottle, make 4 holes so extra twine can be used to hang the bottle up. Make the hanger. Thread 2 feet (0.61 m) of twine through the top holes. Then, knot the ends together. Anything that can hold the weight of the bird feeder can be used instead of twine. Fill the bottle with birdseed. Choose seeds or mixes for smaller birds like jays, cardinals, and chickadees. You don't have to fill the bottle completely, but fill it so that the topmost holes are covered. Keep the cap on the bottle to deter birds from sticking their heads inside. Hang the feeder up from a medium-height branch or a pole. You can position these feeders closer to your house to get a good view of the birds feeding. If you don't have a yard, you can still put out a bird feeder. Simply hang it from a hook or pole outside a window so you can enjoy bird watching. Sunflower seeds are loved by backyard birds, like chickadees, finches, jays, cardinals, sparrows, doves, and goldfinches. Nyjer seeds have a higher oil content and are great to put out in winter. Avoid mixes made for larger birds, like ducks, quail, or turkeys. These are ground-feeders and won't be able to access the plastic-bottle feeder. Select a milk carton. Wet a paper towel and wipe down the outside of the milk carton. Fill the carton partway with warm water and shake well to clean out any leftover milk. Pour out as much of the water from the interior, and dry off the exterior of the carton. You can use a juice carton if you don't have a milk carton. Paint the milk carton white before you decorate it. This is an optional step—you don't have to paint it. If you do, painting the milk carton white gives it a nice, clean background. Use non-toxic acrylic paint. Coat the entire carton in paint, and allow it to dry for 20 minutes before moving on to the next step. You can paint the carton a different color depending on what you'd like to do. The idea is to add a base coat to the carton to cover up the original label. Cut out a square from the front of the milk carton. Use an X-ACTO knife or similar crafting knife. Cut a parallel line about 2 inches (5.1 cm) from the base of the carton. Next cut out a 4 to 5 inches (10 to 13 cm) square, leaving 1 in (2.5 cm) of space on the left and right sides. The top of the square can be a straight line, or you can round it out to form a doorway arch. If you're crafting with kids, complete this part of the project for them so that they are not working with sharp tools. Design a bird feeder house using paints. Paint your bird feeder whatever color you'd like. Create windows and edge the area around the “door” with white paint. With black paint, outline the windows and door and to add any fun details like chimney smoke or a house number. Feel free to get creative with this process! It's okay if your bird feeder doesn't look like a house as long as you're having a good time making it. Create a ledge. Set the carton on its back so you can easily access the bottom. Hot glue wooden craft sticks along the bottom to create a ledge with the ends extending out 2–3 inches (5.1–7.6 cm) in front of the “door". Keep the sticks close so there are no gaps between them. Purchase wooden craft sticks at your local craft store. You can get a pack of 150 sticks for about $2. Form the hanger. Position the hole in the middle of the lip so that the feeder hangs evenly. Use a knife to make the hole wide enough for twine to pass through easily. Take 2 feet (0.61 m) of twine and thread it through the hole and tie the ends together. After making the hole with a knife, use scissors to widen the hole. Simply insert the tip of the scissors into the hole and twist them back and forth to make the hole bigger. Fill the carton with birdseed until it reaches the bottom of the hole. To attract smaller birds, choose mixes or seeds like sunflower seeds, nyjer seeds, millet seeds, and safflower seeds. To attract larger birds, look for mixes containing cracked corn or milo seeds. Take the birdseed and pour it into the milk carton. Stop filling once the birdseed reaches the bottom of the “door”. You can buy birdseed online, at pet stores, and at many home improvement stores. Hang up the bird feeder outdoors and enjoy! For smaller birds, hang the feeder from a medium height branch or pole. For larger birds, hang it from a low branch, or prop it up next to a tree. The main risk is that creatures, like squirrels, can get into the feed. If you don't have a tree to hang the feeder, use a pole or an adhesive hook on the outside of a window. Mix suet with birdseed to make a tasty treat for the birds. Use 1 cup (125 grams) of suet and 1 cup (135 grams) of mixed bird seed. Combine them in a bowl until all the bird seed is incorporated into the suet. Suet is the hard white fat that is found in animal meat. It is used to make pastries and puddings, but it is a healthy and tasty food for birds. Find suet at your grocery store, or ask your local butcher if they have any available. You can make suet cakes to use in the produce netting. Place the suet inside a produce net. Whenever you grocery shop, save the produce nets that contain lemons, oranges, potatoes, onions and other similar items. Take the suet and birdseed mix and place it inside the net. It's okay if the suet is a little loose—the netting holes are small enough that it won't fall through. Form the hanger. Thread 2 feet (0.61 m) of twine through several holes, or simply tie the twine around the top of the netting. If you don't have twine, use something that won't break easily. Hang the suet feeder from a branch. Find a spot for the suet bag. It needs to be high off the ground so that animals, like dogs, cannot reach it. Place it on a sturdy branch in a tree so that the birds have somewhere to perch while they're eating. Suet can attract animals, like dogs, cats, and other creatures, so keeping it high off the ground will keep it safe. Refill the suet when it is empty, or make a new feeder with another net. Depending on the condition of the original net, you can either refill it with new suet, or discard it and make a new feeder. Suet attracts woodpeckers, nuthatches, juncos, chickadees, and other beautiful birds. | Prep the bottle. Use a thumbtack to create 2 holes near the base of the bottle. Widen the holes with a pair of scissors. Create a perch for the birds. Add one perch 2 to 3 in (5.1 to 7.6 cm) above the first. Put in draining holes. Cut out feeding holes for birds to access the feed. Create 2 holes at the neck of the bottle. Make the hanger. Fill the bottle with birdseed. Select a milk carton. Paint the milk carton white before you decorate it. Cut out a square from the front of the milk carton. Design a bird feeder house using paints. Create a ledge. Form the hanger. Fill the carton with birdseed until it reaches the bottom of the hole. Hang up the bird feeder outdoors and enjoy! Mix suet with birdseed to make a tasty treat for the birds. Place the suet inside a produce net. Form the hanger. Hang the suet feeder from a branch. Refill the suet when it is empty, or make a new feeder with another net. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Rekey-a-Lock | How to Rekey a Lock | To rekey a house lock, remove the exterior doorknob by inserting a wire into a small hole in the doorknob. Then, take the lock cylinder out of the knob using a cylinder follower, and remove the cylinder retainer ring so you can take out the cylinder plug. Now, you can dump the old lock pins out of the cylinder, insert the new key into the cylinder, and insert the new pins into their slots. Finally, reassemble and replace the lock. | Get a rekeying kit. Also called pinning kits, rekeying kits are available at most hardware stores and home centers, as well as online. Kits are available for most lock brands and come equipped to do multiple locks, but frequently work for only locks of the same brand. Some kits include only lock pins, while others include special tools (cylinder follower, ring remover, plug follower) to remove the lock cylinder so you can replace the lock pins. You can order extra pins if you have more locks to re-key than the kit has pins for. If you have any old locks that are too corroded to keep, take the pins out and keep them before you throw the lock away. Remove the exterior doorknob or lock face. Door knobs are held in place with a clip accessed by inserting a wire into a tiny hole. Your rekeying kit may include a wire tool for this purpose, or you can unbend a paper clip and insert it. Take out the lock cylinder. Using a cylinder follower (a small brass tube), push the cylinder through the assembly to remove the sleeve covering it and then remove the cylinder. Remove the cylinder retainer ring. Use a wrench-like ring remover to remove the retaining ring from the lock cylinder. Put the retainer ring somewhere you'll find it later when reassembling the lock. Take out the cylinder plug. Insert the key for the current lock into the cylinder and turn it to separate the upper and lower lock pins. Push the plug follower through the cylinder, using constant pressure to remove the plug. Keeping constant pressure will keep the upper lock pins and their retaining springs in place when you remove the cylinder plug. If you should let the springs fall out, you can still pick them up and reinsert them but you will need tweezers to put the springs and pins back in. Take out the old lower lock pins. The lower lock pins are roughly bullet-shaped, with the pointed ends touching the key, and of varying lengths. Insert the new lock key in the cylinder. This will push the springs out of the way and serve as a partial guide for the new lock pins. Insert the new pins in the lock. The new pins should be color-coded or coded numerically to match a chart showing which pin goes where in the lock. You'll need either a tweezers or small needle-nosed pliers to grip the pins and insert them. The new pins should align with the key when it is inserted in the lock. If the pins are not coded, you'll have to use trial and error, inserting and withdrawing the key to make sure it fits the lock with the new pins installed. Reassemble the lock. Replace the cylinder plug and retaining ring, then replace the cylinder in the doorknob or lock face and reattach it to the door. Test the re-keyed lock to make sure it locks and unlocks with the new key. Remove the lock from the car. The exact method depends on the vehicle and whether the lock is a door, trunk, or ignition lock. You may need special equipment to remove the lock. Remove the inner lock tumbler. Take off the end cam and inner spring, then insert a key into the lock tumbler to push the pins away from the cylinder walls. You should then be able to push the tumbler out from the back. The key does not have to be the one that is normally used with the lock. Replace the pins. Replacement tumbler pins come in sets. Each pin has a different length and may be labeled with a number. Insert the new pins in place of the old pins, making sure the new pins extend no further than the top of the tumbler. If you're rekeying more than one car lock, be sure to arrange the new pins in the same order in each lock so you can use the same key with all of them. Insert the tumbler into the lock and test it. Although replacements, the new pins may be too worn to work. The lock should turn smoothly with the key that will be used to lock and unlock it. Replace the lock in the car. You may want to test the key one more time to make sure it works. | Get a rekeying kit. Remove the exterior doorknob or lock face. Take out the lock cylinder. Remove the cylinder retainer ring. Take out the cylinder plug. Take out the old lower lock pins. Insert the new lock key in the cylinder. Insert the new pins in the lock. Reassemble the lock. Remove the lock from the car. Remove the inner lock tumbler. Replace the pins. Insert the tumbler into the lock and test it. Replace the lock in the car. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Administer-Shots-to-Dogs | How to Administer Shots to Dogs | Administering a shot to your dog can be a little scary, but by keeping your dog calm and following any instructions your vet gave you, things should go smoothly. Before you begin, read the release form you received from your vet. It will contain important information on how to administer the shot. Then, let your dog see the syringe so it's not as scared by it. Depending on the type of vaccination, you may need to combine a liquid and powder before you administer it. Fill the syringe with the solution, then form a pocket of skin by pulling up on your dog's loose skin, usually behind its shoulders. Then, insert the needle into the skin and slowly push the plunger down until the liquid is gone. If blood comes out when you insert the needle, you'll need to remove the needle, refill the medication, and try another spot. After the injection, watch out for any rashes or swelling, which could be a sign of an infection that your vet will have to treat. | Review the release forms. When you purchase vaccinations or other medicines from a veterinarian to administer yourself, you will have to sign a release form. Read this form carefully. Not only does it provide valuable information, it helps you understand your responsibilities when you decide to administer shots yourself. By signing the release form, you accept full responsibility for your pet's injection and any reactions or accident that might occur. It warns that allergic or other life-threatening reactions can occur even if the shot is administered correctly. The form warns the shot may be ineffective if it is outdated, left unrefrigerated too long, improperly administered, or exposed to heat, sunlight, or freezing temperatures. Some forms state that if you administer your own rabies vaccine, it will not be accepted as valid by law enforcement agencies and animal care professionals. Make sure you know if this clause is present in your form and its repercussions. Your dog will legally be considered unvaccinated for rabies, which means many kennels will not let your board there and you may not be able to adopt other dogs from animal shelters depending on their policies. Introduce your dog to the syringe beforehand. If your dog has previously been given shots at a vet's office, they probably associate syringes with pain and discomfort. To combat this, allow them to look at, sniff, and paw at an empty syringe (with no attached needle) at a comfortable place in your home. Give treats and other forms of positive reinforcement during these sessions, such as attention, praise, and play. You want your dog to associate the syringe with positive moments to reduce fear and stress when you actually administer the shot. Combine the liquid and powder. Some substances used in shots, especially vaccines, come in two vials: a liquid vial and a powder vial. The liquid and powder needs to be mixed before the shot is administered. Insert the syringe's needle into the liquid vial and pull up the plunger until all the liquid is in the syringe. Push the syringe into the vial containing the powder. Make sure all the liquid empties before pulling out the syringe. Shake the vial. Make sure the powder is completely dissolved. There should be no clumps or residue collected at the bottom of the vial. Draw the desired amount. You should know how many milliliters of medicine or vaccination you are administering to your dog. Before giving him the shot, draw out that amount. Insert the syringe into the combined liquid and powder vial. Pull up until you have the desired amount of milliliters. Make sure there are no air bubbles. If you notice any, push the syringe down, empty the vial, and try again. Familiarize yourself with the three types of injections. Thought there are three different types of injections given to dogs, there is only one type — subcutaneous shots — that can potentially be administered by someone other than the vet. If you shot you plan to give your dog does not fall into this category, then you must take them to the vet. Subcutaneous vaccines are given just beneath the skin. The majority of vaccines and shots are subcutaneous. These are usually administered on the loose skin just above a dog's shoulder blades. If you're administering shots yourself, always use the subcutaneous method. If the medication or vaccination specifically states it needs to be injected in another manner, take your dog to the vet's office. Intramuscular vaccines are injected into the muscle. If you're not a veterinary professional, it might be hard to locate a muscle on your own. It is best to take your dog to the vet if he needs an intramuscular vaccine. Intravenous injections must also be administered by a vet. These injections must be injected into a vein and you should not attempt to do this yourself. Vaccines are not given by IV injection. Find a flat surface. A hard, flat surface should be used when administering shots to your dog. A flat surface, such as a counter or table, allows you plenty of room while administering the medication. Find something that allows you to work comfortably. Have a friend or family member present. Even if your dog is normally calm, he might fidget or fight if he feels a prick. Someone should be present to hold the dog during the injection. This is particularly important if your dog is small and might leap off the table or counter. Lift the dog's skin up and form a pocket in their skin with your finger. As you'll be using a subcutaneous vaccine, it's best to administer it on the loose skin found behind the shoulder blade. Using your non-dominant hand, lift the skin upward, away from the shoulder blade. Using your index or middle finger of your dominant hand (which is holding the syringe), angle the needle at 90 degrees to the flat tented surface of the skin. Push inward to form a small pocket of skin. This reduces the risk of accidentally administering a shot into the body or catching sensitive areas. Administer the shot. Press the needle into your dog's skin. Before injecting, pull the plunger out a little bit. If you see any blood being draw, you're in a vein. This could cause harm to the dog. Pull out, refill the syringe with fresh medicine, and insert it again. Once you find a safe spot, slowly push the plunger down until all the liquid is gone. Watch for skin reactions. Some soreness after an injection is normal, but it also sometimes be a sign of infection or allergic reaction. Monitor the skin after injection for any signs of a serious reaction. Mild reactions are very common and come in the form of a lump or swelling around the site of the injection. This may last a few hours, but might also stay for up to a week. If you notice hives, rashes, or swelling that occurs anywhere outside the injection location, such as the head or shoulder blades, seek medical care. This is a sign of a severe reaction and requires medical care. Understand reactions are common. Reactions to injections, especially vaccinations, are very common. For the most part, the benefits outweigh the risks involved. However, your dog may exhibit a number of mild symptoms that should go away within a week. Fatigue and a low grade fever are common reactions to an injection. Your dog might be lethargic and have a low appetite during the days following an injection. Your dog might also be sore in the area surrounding the injection. Be careful handling him after his shots, especially if you have any contact with his shoulder blades. Know when you need immediate veterinary care. Severe allergic reactions are rare, but can occasionally occur. If a severe allergic reaction does occur, it will usually be within 20 - 30 minutes of giving the injection and the most common sign is collapse. If your dog exhibits any of the following symptoms, seek immediate medical care: Vomiting Diarrhea Lameness Collapse Seizure | Review the release forms. Introduce your dog to the syringe beforehand. Combine the liquid and powder. Draw the desired amount. Familiarize yourself with the three types of injections. Find a flat surface. Lift the dog's skin up and form a pocket in their skin with your finger. Administer the shot. Watch for skin reactions. Understand reactions are common. Know when you need immediate veterinary care. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Forgive-Someone-Who-Betrays-You | How to Forgive Someone Who Betrays You | Forgiving someone who has betrayed you can be very difficult emotionally, but by coming to terms with your feelings and working with the person to rebuild your relationship, it will be easier. Take some time to express your emotions, whether those are sadness, anger, or disgust, since you won't be able to move on if you bottle them up. One way you can try doing this is to write a letter to the person who betrayed you explaining how their actions made you feel. You don't need to send them the letter, since the main point is expressing your feelings clearly. Once you feel ready, talk to the person about how you felt about what they did. Listen to their response and try to understand why they behaved as they did, which doesn't mean you're excusing it. Afterwards, you'll need to discuss how you can rebuild trust in your relationship, which is a crucial part of forgiveness. | Understand what forgiveness is. Forgiveness does not mean excusing or accepting the betrayal. Rather, forgiveness is the act of freeing yourself of the anguish and anger that you've felt towards the person who betrayed you. Forgiveness means letting go of your grudge against the other person. Even though resenting someone who betrayed you seems like an appropriate response, in fact the only one you're hurting when you refuse to move on is you. If you do not forgive others after a betrayal, you will always in some sense remain tethered to the person who wronged you, and won't be able to live your own life to full capacity. Decide why you want to forgive. There are two primary reasons why you might forgive someone. One is to stay true to the value system you believe in. The other is to help you overcome the emotional pain caused by betrayal. Both are valid, and can work in tandem. Religious traditions, especially, encourage forgiveness. The second reason you might choose to forgive is to move beyond the pain and misery caused by the person who betrayed you. When thinking about this motive, you use forgiveness as a tool to help you work your way through the sadness of your betrayal. Don’t force forgiveness. Making an explicit decision to forgive is important, but actually experiencing forgiveness and being free of the pain can take time. Forgiveness is a process and won't happen overnight. Even slight betrayals can take time to stop hurting; however, if you actively maintain forgiveness as your goal, you will eventually get there. Decide the future of your relationship with the betrayer. Some betrayals are so awful that afterwards, you are unwilling or unable to recover the relationship. Even when you forgive someone, you might feel that the relationship is not one you want to salvage. Think about your relationship with the person who betrayed you. Are they an integral part of your life? Can you imagine life without them? Analyze the person's character. Someone is only worth rebuilding a relationship with if they demonstrate sincere sorrow for what they did and are actively working to regain your trust. Acknowledge your emotions. If you're sad, ashamed, or angry about being betrayed, that is perfectly natural. Try to find positive ways to deal with these feelings. Accepting how you feel is an important step toward emotional recovery, which is the first step toward forgiveness. You might also feel resentment, contempt, and disgust at the person who betrayed you. Write a letter to the person who betrayed you. Writing a letter is therapeutic because it allows you to express yourself in an honest, thoughtful way. After a few days, go back and re-read the letter, reflecting on its contents. You don't need to send the letter, though you could. Alternately, you could choose to burn the letter afterwards in order to help you exorcise the negative feelings the letter contained. Writing a letter can provide emotional healing for you, moving you further along in the process of forgiveness. Talk to a trusted friend or family member about the betrayal. Getting support from those who care about and love you is an important step in recovering emotionally after a betrayal. Explain the betrayal to your friend or family member. Once you've talked through the betrayal with someone, you'll feel better, and be more willing to forgive. You could also talk to someone you trust about methods they used to help forgive someone who betrayed them. If you do not feel comfortable talking to someone within your social circle, you could consult a therapist. Therapists are trained in helping people deal with conflicted, painful feelings, including how to cope with betrayal. Recover a sense of power. When you're betrayed, you might feel an intense pain and sense of powerlessness. To restore a sense of power to your life, you need to think of yourself as someone who does things, rather than as someone who endures or suffers from things done to them at the hands of someone who has betrayed you. Unless you feel a sense of autonomy in your own life, it may be difficult to forgive anyone else or heal fully from the betrayal. Use positive self-talk to reclaim power in your life. For instance, say to yourself, “I value myself and others. Others value and love me in return. I will show attention, affection, and love to people who make me feel safe and loved.” Stay positive. Shift your attention away from the betrayal and the pain it brought you by using restorative images. Restorative images reinforce positive thinking and healthy values by keeping you focused on safety, happiness, and your own future instead of looking backwards toward the pain in your past. With positive images in mind, you'll be able to see the process of forgiveness as a healthy step on the road to your own healing. To tap into the power of restorative images, simply imagine a scene that embodies something positive that you value. For instance, perhaps you identify love as one of your positive core values. Think back on your life to a time when you felt truly loved. Perhaps you will assign the restorative image associated with love to your childhood, where you were raised by a loving mother and father. Restorative images can be drawn from your own life experience or imagined. Rebuild your self-confidence. Self-confidence refers to the idea that your life has value, and that you are capable of learning from and overcoming challenges. Following a betrayal, you might find you are not very confident in yourself since you have been hurt and may feel your sense of worth shaken. Rebuilding your self-confidence requires recalling your past victories at work, school, or in your personal life, or creating new victories for yourself in those realms. Once you've rebuilt your self-confidence, you will feel empowered to forgive the person who betrayed you. Positive self-talk is also useful for rebuilding your confidence. For instance, if you're plagued by the idea that, “I deserved to be betrayed because I was dumb,” counter this inaccuracy by telling yourself, “I did not deserve to be betrayed, and the person who betrayed me was wrong to do so.” Learn to challenge negative self-talk so that you will be able to respond in a constructive way. Do things you know you're good at. If you're a talented musician, join a band or write some songs. If you're a strong athlete, join a community sports team. Doing things you're good at will help you feel more confident. Practice mindfulness. Mindfulness refers to a suite of abilities, each of which can help you move recover emotionally from the betrayal you suffered. Staying mindful means being objective when thinking about your betrayal and acting in a thoughtful, deliberate way. Live in the moment and remember that the betrayal is in the past. This will give you the necessary perspective on the betrayal to think about in less reactive ways like seeking vengeance or wishing to harm the person who betrayed you. Engage in self-compassion. In the context of forgiving a betrayer and healing yourself, self-compassion is the understanding that sometimes life is painful, but through your pain, you are connected to the rest of humanity. Think about others who have been betrayed by someone, even if it's someone fictional. Thinking about the fact that your situation is not unique and that others have overcome betrayal in their own lives will help you feel less isolated and alone. By gaining new perspectives on your betrayal and your feelings through self-compassion, you will be better equipped to forgive the betrayer. For instance, you might remember how Lando Calrissian betrayed Han Solo in The Empire Strikes Back, but they were eventually reconciled when Han forgave Lando. Be loving toward yourself. After being betrayed, we have a tendency to blame ourselves or beat ourselves up. Instead, recognize that there was no way you could have known you'd be betrayed. Remember that while you have no control over the actions of others, you do have control over yourself, and can choose to love yourself. Forgiveness is, at its core, an act of love, and it will be difficult to love or forgive anyone else unless you can love yourself. Love yourself in tangible ways like spending time with friends and family, going shopping at your favorite store, or relaxing in a warm bath. Give meaning to the betrayal. While the betrayal you experienced may seem senseless and random at the time, step back and try to give the experience value. Instead of thinking of it as a completely terrible event without any beneficial aspects, you could think of ways in which you might actually be thankful for it. The meaning you take from the misery of betrayal can bolster your emotional strength, which you can then use to forgive the person who betrayed you. For instance, if your partner was cheating on you, you might feel glad that you discovered the betrayal when you did, thus ceasing a potentially ongoing cycle of betrayal. You could also think about the betrayal as something painful that you had to endure, but like a sword forged in flame, you have emerged stronger for having passed through the betrayal. Admit how you’re feeling. Being honest with the person who betrayed you can be extremely difficult. You already feel vulnerable with the person who let you down, and revealing more about yourself or your emotional state might seem impossible; however, if you want to fix your relationship with the person, you must take the risk and open up to him. Stay calm when confronting the person who betrayed you. While it may be tempting to yell, scream, and accuse him, the mature response is to speak calmly in an even tone and be direct when talking about how you feel. Use “I” statements when expressing your feelings. For instance, you could say, “I feel very hurt by your actions.” Avoid accusatory “you” statements like, “You are a rotten person and do not deserve to be happy.” Rebuild trust between yourself and the person who betrayed you. A large part of rebuilding trust is for the person who betrayed you to acknowledge she did something wrong. The person who betrayed you should be aware of your emotions about the betrayal and try to understand why you feel betrayed (if it isn't obvious). If both of you are interested in making things right again, you can move deeper into the process of rebuilding trust. Empathy on the part of both the person who betrayed you and yourself is crucial. Try to understand why she did what she did without excusing her behavior. Explicit forgiveness — speaking the exact words “I forgive you” to the person who betrayed you — is actually not necessary to rebuild your relationship; however, it could help. Try couples therapy. If you were betrayed by a partner or spouse, you could consider attending couples therapy. Couples therapy involves talking to your spouse and a therapist who is specially trained to act as a mediator. The therapist will work with you and your partner to discover the underlying causes of the betrayal, help you cope with the pain, and prepare you to forgive your partner. The therapy session provides a safe space in which you and your partner can work out your feelings about the betrayal in order to decide how to proceed in rebuilding what you had. | Understand what forgiveness is. Decide why you want to forgive. Don’t force forgiveness. Decide the future of your relationship with the betrayer. Acknowledge your emotions. Write a letter to the person who betrayed you. Talk to a trusted friend or family member about the betrayal. Recover a sense of power. Stay positive. Rebuild your self-confidence. Practice mindfulness. Engage in self-compassion. Be loving toward yourself. Give meaning to the betrayal. Admit how you’re feeling. Rebuild trust between yourself and the person who betrayed you. Try couples therapy. |
https://www.wikihow.pet/Grow-Dog-Hair-Back | How to Grow Dog Hair Back | If your dog has lost patches of its fluffy coat, there are things you can do to help it grow back. Before you try anything, take your dog to the vet so they can help identify the cause of its hair loss. Common causes include infections, diseases, allergies, and anxiety. You should also check your dog's fur for fleas, since its hair loss could be a result of scratching its itchy skin. If your dog has a food intolerance, follow your vet's instructions for eliminating these ingredients gradually. If your dog has irritated skin, use a hydrocortisone spray or shampoo to soothe it. Make sure your home environment is as calm and quiet as possible in case stress is contributing to your dog's hair loss. | Visit your veterinarian as soon as you see hair loss or bald spots. While it is normal for your dog to shed hair, excessive shedding and bald spots can be a sign of a serious illness. Contact your vet right away to see if your dog has an ailment that requires antibiotics or other treatments. Your vet may run blood tests or do a biopsy to rule out serious conditions such as: Cushing's disease, a disorder caused by an increase of corticosteroids in the body Ringworm, a fungal infection Mange, a disease caused by parasitic mites Hypothyroidism, a hormonal disease affecting the skin Bacterial infections, illnesses brought on by parasitic, allergic, or hormonal conditions Tell your vet about any other symptoms your dog has shown. Any recent changes in your dog's health and behaviour might provide your vet with clues about your dog's hair loss. Tell your vet if you have noticed any other physical symptoms, such as a rash or skin discoloration. You should also tell your vet if your dog has been acting abnormally, which may indicate a psychological cause for the hair loss. For instance, if you tell your vet about your dog's recent lethargy, weight gain, and skin discoloration, they will be inclined to test for hypothyroidism. Easily bruised skin and increased thirst and urination may be indications of Cushing's disease. Also tell your vet about any recent environmental changes your dog has been exposed to, like moving to a new home or going to a new doggy daycare. Monitor your dog for any excessive scratching or biting. Excessive scratching and biting can contribute to hair loss, so it's important that you keep an eye out for this kind of behavior. There are a variety of reasons that your dog could be scratching or biting itself more than usual, including: Allergies A nutritional deficiency Fleas A skin infection Stress or anxiety Use a flea comb to check your dog's coat for fleas. Hair loss may be a sign that your dog has fleas. Run a small comb with closely-set teeth through your dog's hair, close to the skin. Tap the comb onto a paper towel or white piece of paper to easily spot fleas. Note that fleas are a dark reddish-brown color. In this case, hair loss is due to excessive scratching or biting of flea bites on your dog's skin. Ask your veterinarian for advice on the best way to treat your dog's flea problem. Administer any antibiotics or medications prescribed by your vet. Be sure to give your dog its medicine as recommended by your veterinarian. Depending on the medication, you'll need to administer it orally or topically. For medications that you administer orally, try giving them to your dog with its food or in a "pill pocket" dog treat. Your dog will likely be prescribed trilostane or mitotane if it has Cushing's disease. Your vet will prescribe griseofulvin, itraconazole, or terbinafine to treat ringworm. Hypothyroidism is usually treated with the drug thyroxine, a replacement hormone compound. Bacterial infections will be treated with antibiotics. Use a hydrocortisone shampoo or spray to calm irritated skin. Ask your veterinarian if it is okay to treat your dog with a hydrocortisone spray or shampoo, an ingredient to help soothe and heal the skin. If you use a spray, concentrate only on the areas where your dog's skin is balding or irritated. Your dog's hair will grow back faster once your dog stops licking, scratching, or biting it due to itchiness. Only use a shampoo made specifically for dogs, which will have a pH level suited for their skin. Use hydrocortisone products twice a week while your dog's skin is healing, or as recommended by your veterinarian. Ask your vet about melatonin therapy to treat genetic causes of hair loss. Melatonin is used in veterinary medicine as a natural treatment for genetic hair loss in dogs. Ask your veterinarian if this treatment would be appropriate for your dog. Melatonin should be administered orally once or twice a day, every 8-12 hours. Dogs under 25 pounds (11 kg) should only receive 1.5 mg of melatonin per dose. Dogs between 26–99 pounds (12–45 kg) should receive 3 mg per dose. Large dogs weighing more than 100 pounds (45 kg) should receive 3-6 mg per dose. Watch for possible side effects of melatonin, such as sleepiness and minor gastric upset. Consult your veterinarian about changing your dog's diet to prevent allergies. Skin irritation in dogs, which can lead to hair loss, is often due to food intolerances or allergies. Ask your vet if removing ingredients such as wheat, corn, soy, and eggs from your dog's diet may help its skin condition. Follow your vet's instructions carefully and eliminate these ingredients gradually over a couple of weeks. Look for dog food that does not contain preservatives, which may contribute to skin problems. Reduce your dog's stress level so it doesn't damage its hair. Anxiety can make dogs scratch, bite, or lick their skin excessively, causing hair loss. Reduce your dog's stress level by staying calm around it, being gently assertive, or trying pheromone or herbal treatments. Providing your dog with a crate or other safe place to retreat may also reduce its anxiety. If you don't succeed at reducing your dog's anxiety, consult an animal behaviorist for help. You can use a pheromone spray or diffuser to introduce your dog to pheromone treatments. Bathe your dog once a month to prevent skin problems. Washing your dog too often may result in skin irritation and itchiness, which can lead to hair loss. Bathe your dog approximately once a month using a shampoo specially formulated for dogs. Lather your dog's coat gently and be sure to rinse out all of the shampoo to prevent any irritation. If your dog is already suffering from skin irritation or baldness, check with your vet to see the best way to bathe your dog. Look for shampoos designed specifically for dogs with sensitive skin, like an oatmeal-based dog shampoo. | Visit your veterinarian as soon as you see hair loss or bald spots. Tell your vet about any other symptoms your dog has shown. Monitor your dog for any excessive scratching or biting. Use a flea comb to check your dog's coat for fleas. Administer any antibiotics or medications prescribed by your vet. Use a hydrocortisone shampoo or spray to calm irritated skin. Ask your vet about melatonin therapy to treat genetic causes of hair loss. Consult your veterinarian about changing your dog's diet to prevent allergies. Reduce your dog's stress level so it doesn't damage its hair. Bathe your dog once a month to prevent skin problems. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Hydrate-Hair | How to Hydrate Hair | To hydrate hair naturally, heat 1 to 2 tablespoons of coconut or olive oil and comb it through your dry hair. Then, cover your hair with a plastic shower cap and wait 20 to 30 minutes before rinsing it out. End the treatment by washing your hair with shampoo and conditioner. If you have a little more time, wash your hair and then apply a deep conditioner. Cover your hair with a shower cap for 15 to 30 minutes before washing out the conditioner. | Limit how often you heat style your hair and use a lower heat setting when you do. Blow drying, straightening, and curling your hair too often can cause it to become brittle and dry. Using too high of a temperature can also cause damage. If it is not too cold outside, consider letting your hair dry naturally. If you must heat style your hair, use a heat protection spray first. Consider using ionic hairdryers. They infuse your hair with negatively-charged ions, which help seal moisture into your hair. Use a lower heat setting or temperature on your hairdryer, straightener, or curling iron. It will take longer to get the style you want, but it will be kinder to your hair. Don't blow dry, straighten, or curl your hair every day. Even with a heat protection spray, too much heat can be damaging. Experiment with different hairstyles, such as natural curls, braids, ponytails, etc. Use the right shampoo and conditioner, and avoid anything that contains silicones and sulfates. Choose shampoo and conditioner intended for your hair type. In most cases, this will be dry or curly hair; if you have fine, dry hair, however, use shampoo and conditioner meant for fine hair. Look for products that contain aloe vera or apricot kernel oil for extra moisture and hydration. Avoid washing your hair with hot water. Hot water can strip your hair (and skin) of its natural oils and moisture, leaving it feeling dry and dull. Silicones may help make your hair look shiny and smooth, but they can only be removed with sulfates. If you don't remove them properly, they will lead to build-up, which can cause your hair to look limp and dull. Sulfates are harsh, cleaning agents found in many household cleaners. They are great at removing silicones, but they also leave hair feeling brittle and dry. Don't wash your hair every day. It may sound gross, but washing your hair only twice or thrice a week is actually better for your hair. The more often you wash your hair, the drier it will become. If you must wash your hair every day, consider co-washing where you wash your hair using just conditioner. You wash your hair with shampoo only 2 or 3 times a week. Take care of how you wash your hair. Use shampoo mostly on your scalp, and conditioner mostly on the ends of your hair. If you have thick, coarse hair, consider using a regular, rinse-out conditioner first, and then applying a leave-in conditioner after you step out of the shower. If you have mature hair, leave a deep conditioner in your hair (under a plastic shower cap) overnight. Wash your hair with shampoo and conditioner in the morning as usual. Co-washing is great for curly hair since it will keep your curls hydrated and make them less frizzy. Limit how often you dye, highlight, perm, or relax your hair. All of these styling techniques use chemicals, which can cause your hair to become brittle and dry over time. While there is little you can do when it comes to doing perms safely, there are a few things you can do to dye, highlight, or relax your hair in a less-damaging way: Consider an ammonia-free hair color. You will likely have to go to a salon to get it professionally done, but it will be much kinder and gentler on your hair. If you have mature hair, use a hydrating/moisturizing hair dye. Consider getting a balayage done instead of regular highlighting. Balayage highlights your hair only from midway down. Because the roots are left natural, you don't have to do touchups as often. It also looks more natural. Consider a chemical-free relaxer. It will still be harsh on your hair, so it is best not to do it too often, but it will be gentler than the usual chemical method. Protect your hair from the elements, especially the wind and sun. Both of these can cause your hair to become brittle and dry. If it is a hot, sunny day, spray your hair with a UV protection spray or wear a hat; you can also wear a hat or hood during the winter to keep your hair from drying out. Here are some other things you should keep in mind: Apply a rich, conditioning cream and a swim cap before going swimming. This will keep your hair from drying out in chlorinated water. Use a rich, moisturizing conditioner during the winter. Add a deep-conditioning treatment once a week to your hair care regime for extra hydration. Take care of how you brush your hair. Always brush your hair starting from the ends, and never straight down from the roots. Also, never brush your hair while it is wet, as this can easily rip or tear it. Instead, gently comb your hair out using your fingers or a wide-toothed comb. Once your hair is dry, you can brush it out using a wide-toothed comb (recommended for curly hair types) or a natural, boar bristle brush (this will help redistribute your hair's natural oils). If you need to, use a detangling spray or cream to make brushing easier. Use a store-bought deep conditioning treatment once a week. After you have washed your hair, apply a deep conditioner and tuck your hair under a shower cap. Wait for 15 to 30 minutes before washing the deep conditioner out. Make and use a simple spray-on conditioning treatment. Fill a spray bottle two-thirds of the way with water, and one-third of the way with a leave-in conditioner. Close the bottle and shake it to mix everything up. Spray the mixture into your hair until it is damp, then apply a rich, conditioning cream. Use a hot oil treatment for something quick and easy. Heat up 1 to 2 tablespoons (14.8 to 29.6 ml) of oil (like coconut oil or olive oil) and comb it through your hair. Cover your hair with a plastic shower cap and wait 20 to 30 minutes. Once the time is up, rinse the oil out, then wash your hair with shampoo and conditioner. If you have very thick or very long hair, you may need to use more oil. To make the mask even more effective, sit under the hot sun or a dryer. The heat will help your hair absorb the oil better. Alternatively, you can apply the oil to your hair, wear a plastic shower cap, and sit under a hair dryer for a similar effect. Try a simple honey and coconut oil mask. Place 1 tablespoon (14.8 ml) of honey and 1 tablespoon (15 ml) of coconut oil into a microwave-safe dish. Heat them in the microwave until the coconut oil melts, and stir to combine. Comb the mask through your hair, then tuck your hair under a plastic shower cap. Wait 30 to 40 minutes, then rinse the mask out using warm water and shampoo. If you don't have any coconut oil, you can use olive oil instead. Honey is wonderful for hair because it helps seal in moisture. Make a honey, oil, and yogurt mask to hydrate and strengthen your hair. In a small bowl, mix 1 teaspoon (4.9 ml) of olive oil, 1 tablespoon (14.8 ml) of honey, and ¼ cup (65 grams) of plain, Greek yogurt. Apply the mask to your damp hair, then tuck your hair under a plastic shower cap. Wait for 15 to 20 minutes, then wash the mask out with warm water and shampoo. Try a nourishing avocado and oil mask if your hair is brittle and dry. In a small bowl, mash together a ripe avocado and 1 tablespoon (14.8 ml) of olive oil. For extra nourishment and hydration, add 1 tablespoon (14.8 ml) of honey. Apply the mask to damp hair, then tuck your hair under a plastic shower cap. Wait 15 to 60 minutes, then wash the mask out. Make a banana-honey mask to hydrate your hair and prevent breakage. In a blender, combine 1 ripe banana, 1 tablespoon (14.8 ml) of honey, and 1 tablespoon (15 ml) of olive oil. Keep blending until the mixture is smooth and there are no banana clumps. Comb the mixture through your hair and massage it into your scalp. Cover your hair with a plastic shower cap and wait 15 minutes. Wash the mask out once the time is up. The banana in this mask will help restore your hair's elasticity and prevent breakage. Eat plenty of foods that contain silica for healthy hair. One of the reasons why hair might turn dry is because it is unhealthy. You can restore your hair's strength and shine by eating enough silica, a mineral found in asparagus, bell peppers, cucumbers, potatoes, and other vegetables. Make sure that you get enough protein and vitamins. Meat is an obvious source of protein, but so are other foods as well, including eggs, yogurt, and beans. Vitamins A, B, C, E, and K are also very important for hair and are found in fruits, grains, and green, leafy vegetables. In addition to vitamins, make sure that you also get enough of beta-carotene, folic acid, magnesium, and sulfur in your diet. Eat foods that contain essential fatty acids to combat dryness and brittleness. Essential fatty acids are mostly found in fish, including herring, mackerel, salmon, sardines, and tuna. They are also found in avocados, flaxseed, olives, and nuts. Drink around 6 to 8 cups (1.5 to 2 liters) of water each day. Not only is water important to your body's health, but it is also important to your hair's health. If you don't drink enough water, your skin and your hair will be dry. | Limit how often you heat style your hair and use a lower heat setting when you do. Use the right shampoo and conditioner, and avoid anything that contains silicones and sulfates. Don't wash your hair every day. Limit how often you dye, highlight, perm, or relax your hair. Protect your hair from the elements, especially the wind and sun. Take care of how you brush your hair. Use a store-bought deep conditioning treatment once a week. Make and use a simple spray-on conditioning treatment. Use a hot oil treatment for something quick and easy. Try a simple honey and coconut oil mask. Make a honey, oil, and yogurt mask to hydrate and strengthen your hair. Try a nourishing avocado and oil mask if your hair is brittle and dry. Make a banana-honey mask to hydrate your hair and prevent breakage. Eat plenty of foods that contain silica for healthy hair. Make sure that you get enough protein and vitamins. Eat foods that contain essential fatty acids to combat dryness and brittleness. Drink around 6 to 8 cups (1.5 to 2 liters) of water each day. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Deal-With-a-Tooth-Pulling | How to Deal With a Tooth Pulling | To deal with a tooth pulling, try taking over-the-counter painkillers, such as Tylenol, to reduce any discomfort. Alternatively, you can hold an ice pack or cold compress against your jaw to reduce swelling and pain. If you notice your gum bleeding, try holding a damp teabag on the wound for 15 minutes, which has natural constrictors to stop the flow of blood. Additionally, drink lots of water after your surgery to replenish your fluids. You should also stick to soft foods, like applesauce, for the first 24 hours to reduce pain while eating. | Look for signs of tooth problems. If you start to feel pain in your mouth, it could be the sign of a serious condition, which may lead to your teeth being pulled. Possible reasons for pulling a tooth include: Your mouth is crowded. Sometimes you will need a tooth removed to help keep your teeth properly aligned. They may be too big for your mouth, or their current position prevents a new one from breaking in. This is a common case with wisdom teeth, located in the rear of your mouth. It is also sometimes necessary for orthodontic purposes. There is tooth decay or other damage that has spread to the middle of your tooth. If other treatments like a root canal or antibiotics cannot cure it, your tooth may need to come out. You are under serious risk for infection. This is the case in instances where your immune system has been compromised, perhaps while receiving chemotherapy, having an organ transplant, or before heart surgery. Your dentist may decide to have your teeth pulled because of the increased risk, and the damage it would cause. You have serious gum disease. Gum disease infects your gums, and can cause your teeth to loosen. Your dentist may need to pull teeth in order to properly treat your gums. Talk to your dentist. If you are feeling pain in your teeth, your dentist will be able to determine what needs to happen next. Make sure you are honest about the pain and how long you have had it. When you discuss surgery, you should ask a few questions. The answers will probably be similar for many people, but there may always been different concerns depending on your unique medical history. Ask about your teeth, including how many will need to come out, and what other damage there is in your mouth. Ask about the surgery, including how long it will last, and what kind of anesthesia you will get. You will also want to ask about your preparation, including when you should arrive, whether there are certain restrictions regarding food, drink, or medication (prescription and non-prescription), and if you will need assistance afterwards. Ask about the recovery period, including healing time, ways to care for yourself afterwards, and other treatments you may need. Check your insurance. Not every insurance plan will cover tooth extraction, so if you are having the surgery, make sure you know what your plan covers. Teeth pulling does not need to be expensive, depending on the clinic you attend, but you don't want to be surprised when the bill comes. If you have concerns about the cost, talk to your insurance company and dentist about different payment options. It is better to figure out a payment plan than to not have a tooth pulled. If it stays in, you may develop more problems, which will be even more expensive to deal with. Stock up on the proper food and drink. After the surgery, you will want to drink lots of water and eat soft foods like applesauce and yogurt. Make sure you have plenty of soft food around so that you don't go hungry and have to leave your house after surgery to go get supplies. Show up early for your appointment. Come early to make sure you are there for the operation. The sooner you are ready to go, the quicker the operation can get started and you will get home. You should not come alone for the surgery. You will be taking an anesthetic drug, and will probably be on several prescribed painkillers after the operation. Someone else, like a family member or close friend, should drive you home. Having them there can also help if you experience anxiety or concern about the surgery. Stay calm before surgery. It is natural to be a little nervous about your procedure beforehand, but you shouldn't be scared. Before the surgery, make sure the dentist has answered every question you have, so that you can feel confident in what he is going to do and how it will work. If the possibility of surgery scares you, or you feel nervous when it is beginning, try some basic relaxation techniques like controlled breathing, where you take a deep breath then release the air very slowly. You can also try visualization techniques, where you think about something positive or pleasant, such as a relaxing day on the beach, to get your mind off the surgery. Relax for the rest of the day. Surgery takes a lot out of you, even a relatively simple one like tooth pulling. Take the day off from work or school. Avoid exercising and make sure to keep your head elevated. Manage the pain. After the painkillers you got at the dentist wear off, your mouth will probably ache, and there will be some swelling. Over the counter drugs like acetaminophen (Tylenol), or stronger prescription painkillers from your dentist, taken as directed, will help reduce the pain. Additionally, an ice pack or cold compress against your jaw will help reduce the pain and keep swelling down. Eat properly. You'll have to restrict yourself in the first 24 hours after the surgery. Drink lots of water to replenish fluids. Eat soft foods like applesauce, but avoid dairy (like ice cream or yogurt) for the first two days, as these may contain lactic bacteria such as lactobacillus which can generate infection if there is no antibiotic prescription. After the first 24 hours, you will be able to introduce harder foods like mashed potatoes, scrambled eggs, and pasta as you can tolerate the pain. Avoid alcoholic, carbonated, caffeinated, or hot beverages during that period, and don't eat hard, chewy, hot, or spicy foods. Don't drink with a straw for at least a week, as the suction may dislodge blood clots. Take care of your teeth. Don't brush your teeth, use mouthwash, rinse your mouth, or spit for the first 24 hours. When you start again, be gentle around the wound. For the first few weeks after surgery, rinse your mouth with warm salt water every two hours and after meals. Wait at least 72 hours before you start smoking again (longer if possible), and avoid chewing tobacco for at least a week. Watch for bleeding. Some bleeding of the pulling site is common, especially within a couple of hours after surgery, so don't be too concerned at first. If you notice bleeding, or taste blood in your saliva, put a piece of gauze or other absorbent fabric over the wound. Hold it there for about 15 minutes. Do not rinse you mouth. A moist tea bag works well also. The bag helps to absorb the moisture from the blood and your saliva, and has natural constrictors that will help stop the blood. Bleeding should not last too long after surgery. If you are still bleeding after a few hours, contact your dentist. Get your stitches taken out. The hole your tooth came out of needed to be sewn up afterwards, and you'll want those stitches removed. Some tooth pulling operations use dissolving stitches, which should disappear on their own in a few weeks. Your dentist will let you know what you have and what you should be prepared for. Consider getting replacement teeth. Don't worry about being embarrassed or concerned about missing teeth, especially if they are from a visible part of your mouth. This is a common concern, and one your dentist can help with. Talk to him about cosmetic surgery or implants to replace the tooth. Remember that having a spot from a missing tooth is much better than if you had left the tooth in there to rot. This might have caused even worse damage to your mouth and bones, and potentially more teeth coming out. Watch for long-term risks. While most tooth-removal surgeries are completely safe, and patients make a full recovery, there are some things to keep an eye on. The symptoms will mostly include pain in the tooth socket, perhaps from exposed bone, or bacteria developing from food and other particles getting into the hole. Make sure your dentist remembers you had the teeth removed, especially if you get a new dentist. They will be able to help you keep track of your mouth and watch for such health risks. Take regular care of your teeth. This means daily brushing and regular flossing to keep them clean, as well as regular checkups and cleanings with your dentist. You'll want to wait a few days after the surgery to let the wound heal, and be gentle around the hole. | Look for signs of tooth problems. Talk to your dentist. Check your insurance. Stock up on the proper food and drink. Show up early for your appointment. Stay calm before surgery. Relax for the rest of the day. Manage the pain. Eat properly. Take care of your teeth. Watch for bleeding. Get your stitches taken out. Consider getting replacement teeth. Watch for long-term risks. Take regular care of your teeth. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Get-Your-Dad-to-Stop-Picking-on-You | How to Get Your Dad to Stop Picking on You | It can be hurtful when your dad picks on you, but by learning how to cope, you can get through it. It may be hard, but try to ignore your dad when he picks on you, since acting like you don't care may make your dad lose interest in teasing you. If you have siblings, stick around them, so your dad has fewer chances to pick on you. Alternatively, you can tell your dad to stop. You could say something direct like, “Please don't talk to me that way.” It's best to talk to your dad about the issue when he's in a good mood, so he'll be more receptive. If he doesn't stop, or if you're scared to confront him, talk to another adult about the issue, like another family member or a teacher. It's never okay for your parent to pick on you, so don't be afraid to get help. They'll be able to help mediate and stop the hurtful teasing. | Ignore it. Sometimes, the best way to deal with someone messing with you is to ignore it. Your dad may thrive off the response he gets from you. He may think it's amusing to see you annoyed, so try to not indulge him. When your dad starts picking on you, just pretend you do not hear him. If he persists in picking on you, simply walk away. Acting like you don't care may bore your dad. If he thinks it's funny to see you get mad, he'll lose interest if you just ignore his behavior. This can be a good way to get him to stop in the moment. Stand up for yourself. You can also try telling your dad to stop. It's possible your dad does not realize he's bothering you. It's also possible your dad has never been confronted about his behavior before, so he doesn't think he needs to stop. Try standing up for yourself in the moment and see if your dad stops picking on you. Be assertive without being aggressive. Do not raise your voice, but simply say in a stern manner, "Stop talking to me like that." After you ask your dad to stop, walk away from the situation. While this can be a good technique, if your dad has a temper, you may want to take a different route. You do not want to escalate the situation. Think of a comeback. You can also try thinking of a comeback to the teasing to make it clear you cannot be intimidated. If your dad makes fun of your hair, for example, say something like, "Thanks for sharing" and then walk away. Try to look relaxed when the teasing occurs, so you appear unbothered by your dad picking on you. As with confronting your dad, however, be careful. If your dad has a temper, you do not want to risk making him angry and potentially escalating the situation. Find strength in numbers. If you have siblings, strength in numbers can help you stop getting picked on. Try to stick around your siblings when your dad is around. You and your sibling can work on ignoring or standing up to your dad together. He may feel uncomfortable if he's outnumbered. Talk to another adult about the issue. If your father is making you uncomfortable, you may want to talk it over with another adult. Your other parent, for example, may be able to help mediate the situation so you feel more comfortable. If you're unable to talk to your other parent, try talking to another relative, such as aunt or uncle, or the parent of a friend. Another adult can help you sort out your feelings. If you want to talk the problem over with your dad, another adult can help you figure out how to best bring up how your dad makes you feel. Tell another adult exactly how your dad is picking on you. You can also tell them how the behavior makes you feel. For example, "I don't like it when dad yells at me when I don't do my chores. The way he talks to me makes me feel insecure and scared and I wish he would stop." Wait until your dad is calm to discuss the issue. This is especially important if your father has temper problems. Confronting your dad in the moment he's picking on you may backfire. He may get angry and double down on his aggression. Wait until your dad is calm to raise the issue. Do you know a time when your father is generally in a good mood? This may be a good time to talk with him. For example, maybe your father is always in good spirits when he gets home from bowling with his friends. You may want to let your dad know you want to talk ahead of time, so he has a head's up. If your dad has a busy schedule, he may need to carve out some time to have a discussion. You can say something like, "Dad, I need to talk to you sometime this week about something that's bothering me. Can you let me know when is good for you?" Open the conversation honestly. You should let your dad know exactly how you feel about the way he treats you. Be honest and give precise details. It's important your dad understands how you feel about the situation. Avoid sounding accusatory. Do not open the discussion with something like, "Dad, I hate how you're always yelling at me." This will make you sound hostile, and your dad may become defensive. Instead, start with something like, "Dad, I don't feel like we always get along as well as we should, and I don't like that. I would like to work on fixing this." Use "I" statements to express your feelings. It can help to use an "I" statement when telling your dad how his behavior affects you. This is a statement phrased in a way to emphasize personal feelings. This way, it feels less judgmental. Instead of offering an objective assessment of the situation, you're merely saying how the situation makes you feel. An "I" statement has three parts. It begins with "I feel..." after which you immediately state your feeling. Then, you state the action that led to that feeling. Lastly, you explain why you feel the way you do. For example, you may be inclined to say something like, "You yell all the time about my grades because you think I'm stupid. It's really mean because you know I try hard." This sounds very hostile, and it could put your dad on the defense right away. You can use an "I"-statement to better express that feeling. For example, say something like, "I feel hurt when you yell at me about my grades because I feel like you're saying I'm stupid, when I'm trying my best in school." Listen to your dad's perspective. Give your dad a chance to talk as well. You want to hear his take on the situation, and understand where he's coming from. While it is never okay to make a child feel uncomfortable or hurt, your father may have reasons for behaving the way he does. Understanding him better can help you empathize, and make it easier to forgive your father and move forward. Listen to what your father has to say. He may have many reasons for picking on you. He may be stressed at work, or he may simply not realize how the behavior was making you feel. For example, your father may say something like, "I thought it was just lighthearted teasing. I didn't realize it was hurting your feelings." If your father is receptive to what you are saying, he will hopefully offer an apology and an explanation. The two of you can move forward towards a healthy relationship. Talk to your dad regularly. A good relationship is built on open communication. As you and your dad try to foster a healthier relationship, work on talking to him every day. Find time to talk every day. You can talk to your dad at the dinner table, or after he gets home from work. You do not always have to have a serious discussion. You can simply talk about your day at school. If your dad did something to hurt your feelings, make sure to let him know. You want to make sure he knows if he's continuing to pick on you and upset you. Ask your parents about family counseling if the situation does not improve. It's possible your dad may not improve. Your dad may have problems with anger or stress management. You may need to see a family counselor to figure out how to best address the issue and form a healthier family dynamic. You may want to talk to a counselor at your school before talking to your parents. Your counselor can help advise you on how to bring up family counseling, and may even be able to talk to your parents for you. Watch for warning signs of emotional abuse. Parents screw up sometimes, and may accidentally pick on their children. However, if your dad is routinely making you uncomfortable, you may be the victim of emotional abuse. It's important to figure out if you are being emotionally abused so you can take action to end the abuse. Your dad may ignore you when you do not behave the way he wants. He may not look at you or call you by name. Your dad may prevent you from seeing friends. He may not allow you to have a normal social life. This is to keep you isolated and away from others. Your dad may talk to you in a way that is traumatizing. He may ridicule you or curse at you. He may call you things like "stupid" or "worthless." He may also do things to scare you, like placing a pet or a sibling in a dangerous situation. Seek help from a trusted adult if you are being abused. It's important you tell someone about abuse, as it can be very damaging over the longterm. Emotional abuse may also eventually turn into physical abuse. Tell another adult relative, the parent of a friend, or a trusted teacher or counselor at school what is going on. These adults should be able to find you the resources you need to get away from an abusive situation. If you do not have an adult you feel you can trust, try calling Childhelp USA. This is an organization that seeks to help children who are being physically or emotionally abused by a parent. You can call at (800) 4-A-CHILD. | Ignore it. Stand up for yourself. Think of a comeback. Find strength in numbers. Talk to another adult about the issue. Wait until your dad is calm to discuss the issue. Open the conversation honestly. Use "I" statements to express your feelings. Listen to your dad's perspective. Talk to your dad regularly. Ask your parents about family counseling if the situation does not improve. Watch for warning signs of emotional abuse. Seek help from a trusted adult if you are being abused. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Make-Wooden-Rings | How to Make Wooden Rings | To make a wooden ring, start by cutting out a square piece of strong, dense wood, like mahogany or Brazilian walnut. Then, mark a point at the center of the wooden square, and secure the square in a vice or a C-clamp. Next, drill through the square at the point you marked using a drill bit that's slightly narrower than your ring finger, and draw a ring shape around the hole. Finally, cut off the corners of the wooden square, and sand the edges of the ring until it's round and smooth. | Choose a strong, dense wood. Since the finished ring needs to be fairly thin, it's important to pick out a type of wood that can hold up to intensive sawing, drilling, and sanding. Rich species African Padauk, mahogany, cocobolo and Brazilian walnut are good choices for this sort of project. As a general rule, the darker the color, the more resilient the wood will be. Softer woods are more likely to crack or splinter during the shaping process. Look for sample wood billets at local stores that specialize in home improvement and woodworking. A large piece of scrap wood will typically only cost you a few dollars—if you're lucky, you might even be able to find some for free. Mark a 1⅜” (3.5 cm) square on the block. Measure 1⅜” (3.5 cm) from the end of the scrap wood, then draw a line straight down the width with a pencil. This line indicates where you'll be cutting the square blank that will serve as the raw material for your ring. If the piece of scrap wood you're using is larger than 1⅜” (3.5 cm), it may be necessary to measure and mark both vertically and horizontally. Saw the blank off the block. Use a bandsaw or circular saw to cut along the line you just drew. Be sure to saw the wood across the grain, not with it. Otherwise, your ring will be structurally unsound and may break before you're finished. When you're done, you'll be left with a flat, slender square similar in appearance to a drink coaster. This square block of wood is commonly referred to as a "blank." You'll transform the blank to a finished ring through repeated sanding and shaping. If you don't have access to a power saw, you can also do it the old fashioned way using a handsaw, though this will require more time and labor due to the density of the wood. Mark the blank where the finger hole will go. Take your pencil or a felt-tipped marker and scribble a small, bold dot at the center of the wooden square. This is where you'll place the tip of the drill bit to carve out the ring's finger hole. Don't worry about getting the placement just right—you'll be removing a lot of excess material from the outer edges, so you'll have plenty of room for error. Select a drill bit slightly narrower than your ring finger. You'll get the best results using a wood bore or spade bit with a flared tip. Compare the width of the bit with the diameter of your ring finger for reference. It should be just slightly narrower than your finger. The pointed tip of the drill bit will mark the placement of the finger hole, while the angled corners bore out the outer edges of the ring. To be certain that the ring will come out the right size, take one of your own rings and slide the bit inside. It should be able to fit without touching. Secure the blank in a vice or C-clamp. Situate the wood widthwise so that the dot you made to mark the finger hole is facing upwards, then twist the hand crank or dial clockwise to tighten the clamps. This will help hold the blank in place so you can concentrate on drilling. If you don't have access to a vice or C-clamp, try using a pair of pliers to grip the outermost edge of the wood. Under no circumstances should you attempt to hold the blank by hand. Drill halfway through the blank. Position the tip of the bit over the dot in the center of the wood and turn on the drill. Apply a modest amount of pressure—you don't want to drill all the way through just yet. Stop drilling when you've opened up a small hole with a shallow circle carved around it. Drilling straight through a piece of wood with a spade bit can result in splintering. Turn the blank over and finish drilling the hole. Remove the blank from the vice or clamp, flip it over, and resecure it. Double check that the drill bit tip is aligned with the hole. Then, repeat the drilling process from the opposite side, guiding the drill steadily until it bores the rest of the way through. By drilling halfway through the blank at a time, you can minimize the risk of chipping or breaking your materials. Sand the inside of the finger hole. Switch on your Dremel tool and insert the rotary head into the hole to buff the surface that will rest against your finger. You can also touch it up with a folded square of sandpaper. The inner face should be totally smooth, with no visible points or edges that could scratch you. If you take the manual approach, start with a medium-grit sandpaper (around 80 grit) and follow it up with a few passes with a high-grit one (100-120 grit) to get the most seamless texture. Hold off on testing the ring's fit until you've sanded it thoroughly. Being impatient to try it on is a good way to get splinters! Draw a ring shape around the circumference of the hole. Grab your pencil or marker and free-hand a circle roughly 2-3mm larger than the inside edge of the ring. Together, the two circles will determine the ring's thickness. Don't worry about making this circle too perfect, as you'll be sanding it into the proper shape later on. For more precise dimensions, try tracing with the aid of a scribing compass. Due to the risk of breakage, it's not recommended that you go any thinner than about 2mm. Cut off the squared corners of the blank. Draw a short line across each corner where it intersects with the edge of the outer circle. Then, return to your bandsaw or circular saw to trim the corners. This will leave the blank with a rough octagonal shape. Measure, mark, and saw the corners carefully to avoid cutting into the body of the ring. Sand the ring into its finished shape. Hold the outer edge of the blank lightly against the Dremel tool or belt sander. Rotate the wood gradually to ensure that the band turns out as even and symmetrical as possible. Continue sanding down the blank little by little, using the circular outline as a guide. Be careful not to bear down too hard—remember, you can always sand off more if needed, but you can't put it back on. At this stage, you can use your saw to shave some of the excess width off of especially thick blanks to reduce them to a more practical size. If there's enough extra material, you might even have enough left over to create a pair of matching rings. Work carefully and be patient. Shaping is the most time-consuming part of the process, and it may take a little while for you to end up with a ring you're happy with. Bevel the edges of the ring. Once you're satisfied with the basic shape of your ring, tilt it at a 30-45 degree angle and press it gently into the sander or Dremel. Rotate the ring until you've sanded down the entire circumference, then turn it over and smooth the opposite side. Once again, be careful not to remove too much wood from the edges of the ring. Doing your sanding by hand will offer you greater control over how much material you're taking off if you're concerned about damaging the ring after all the hard work you've put into it. Beveling wears down the squared corners, making the ring more comfortable to slide on and off. Heat temper the ring to strengthen the wood (optional). While it's not a necessity, a few quick passes with a heating gun can provide added durability and a more customized fit. Set the ring on a heat-safe surface and position the nozzle of the gun 6 inches (15 cm) above it. Wave the gun back and forth slowly until the wood just begin to smoke or darken around the edges. Exposure to intense heat will cause the fibers in the wood to draw up, making them stronger. Apply a coat of oil or wax to preserve the wood finish. Dab a small amount of beeswax or linseed, walnut, or tung oil onto a clean cloth and rub it over the completed ring inside and out. Wipe off any excess oil or wax and give the finish a few minutes to dry before trying on your new ring. Once it's been treated, you'll be able to wear it fearlessly in virtually any set of conditions. Waxes and oils act as a natural buffer against dirt, moisture, and scratches, and will keep your ring from cracking or splitting over time. No need to worry if you're unable to track down a fancy finish—the natural oils secreted by your skin will coat the ring with enough wear. | Choose a strong, dense wood. Mark a 1⅜” (3.5 cm) square on the block. Saw the blank off the block. Mark the blank where the finger hole will go. Select a drill bit slightly narrower than your ring finger. Secure the blank in a vice or C-clamp. Drill halfway through the blank. Turn the blank over and finish drilling the hole. Sand the inside of the finger hole. Draw a ring shape around the circumference of the hole. Cut off the squared corners of the blank. Sand the ring into its finished shape. Bevel the edges of the ring. Heat temper the ring to strengthen the wood (optional). Apply a coat of oil or wax to preserve the wood finish. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Detect-Sarcasm-in-Writing | How to Detect Sarcasm in Writing | One easy way to detect sarcasm in writing is to look for repeated letters, especially vowels. For example, to use the word “right” sarcastically, you might spell it as “riiiight.” Alternatively, if someone is using exaggerated language that doesn't fit the situation, like describing rainy weather as “absolutely fantastic,” they're probably being sarcastic. Look out for capital letters when detecting sarcasm, for example, in “Well THAT was a great presentation,” the word “that” would probably be emphasized to indicate sarcasm. | See if the writer adds letters to common words. Sarcasm in writing can be difficult to detect in text due to the absence of verbal tone, which is often used to convey sarcasm when speaking. If someone is being sarcastic in writing, he or she may add multiple letters to common words to indicate a sarcastic tone. A writer may use multiple letters to indicate an elongated syllable. In real life, if someone makes a statement you do not believe, you may respond by saying, "Right," but stretching out the word sarcastically. Therefore, a sarcastic use of the word "right" in text may be written as, "Riiiiight." There are other examples of words being stretched out misspelled to indicate sarcasm. Someone may sarcastically type, "Excuse me" in apology as, "Excuuuse meee." A person may also give a sarcastic, "Okay, then," as "Oooookaaay, then!" Watch for hyperbole. Hyperbolic language, usually marked by the use of intense adjectives, may be used to indicate sarcasm in writing. If someone's enthusiasm for a given subject seems unusually intense, that person may be being hyperbolic. This is often an indicator of sarcasm in text. Usually, in sarcastic writing, a writer will choose a more intense version of a common word to indicate hyperbole. This can point to sarcasm. For example, instead of saying, "The weather's been nice today," a sarcastic writer may write, "The weather's been fantastic today." As "fantastic" is a more intense adjective, its use may indicate sarcasm. Hyperbolic language is likely to indicate sarcasm if the adjective used seems to conflict with the situation. For example, say someone posts a Facebook status saying something like, "Got a D on my chemistry test and I feel like a genius!" It's unlikely someone would feel like a genius after receiving a poor grade. Therefore, you can reasonably assume this is sarcasm. You can also look for elongated letters alongside hyperbolic language. When speaking, someone may draw out hyperbolic intensifiers to indicate sarcasm. In text, someone may add letters to indicate this verbal tendency. For example, "I just pulled an all-nighter studying for Professor Mendez's algebra exam and I'm just feeling fantastic." Look at any references. World references or references to popular culture embedded in the text can indicate sarcasm. If you're unsure if a writer is being sarcastic, see if he or she uses any references. Use of references may very well indicate sarcasm if they're used in a way that feels off. For example, say someone is responding to another writer's political view in the comments section of a news article. That person may say something like, "Your response is about as tempered as a Tea Party rally." The Tea Party is a political organization known for its intense, sometimes aggressive rallies. Saying a response is "tempered" and then immediately comparing it to such a rally likely indicates sarcasm. The speaker may also ask a question that's obviously true to indicate sarcasm. For example, someone may ask an obvious question on a forum, to which the obvious answer is "Yes." A sarcastic speaker may respond with something like, "Could Moses count to 10?" Given Moses is known in the Bible as the bearer of the 10 Commandments, it's very likely he could count to 10. The answer to this question is also, obviously, yes. The writer is likely being sarcastic. Scan for capital letters. Oftentimes, in sarcastic writing, certain words will be capitalized. This is to indicate a tone that may be used to indicate sarcasm when speaking. If a sentence contains capital words, it may very well be sarcastic. For example, say someone is disagreeing with another writer's point on a political forum. The writer may respond with something like, "Okay, THAT makes sense." The capitalized "that" indicates that, in a sentence, the word "that" would be spoken slightly louder than the rest of the sentence. Verbally, that would indicate sarcasm. Capital letters may be used in conjunction with other elements of sarcastic writing. For example, the speaker may say something like, "Okay, THAAAAT makes sense! FANTASTIC point." This could indicate sarcasm, mixed in with a hint of aggression. See if the writing feels otherwise aggressive. Oftentimes, sarcasm is used by a speaker who's angry or frustrated. If the writing feels otherwise aggressive, it's more likely to be sarcastic. It the writer is engaged in a heated argument, for example, you're more likely to find writing that is laced with sarcasm. Detect sarcasm in literary works and other media. Sarcasm has been used as a literary device, or a writing technique used to help get an idea across, for as long as people have been writing stories. Writers of books, screenplays and comedy sketches often employ sarcasm as a way to develop a character's personality. For example, the Game of Thrones character Tyrion Lannister is known for being witty and sarcastic. The following dialogue is dripping with his signature sarcasm: “No man threatens His Grace in the presence of the Kingsguard.” Tyrion Lannister raised an eyebrow. “I am not threatening the king, ser, I am educating my nephew. Bronn, Timett, the next time Ser Boros opens his mouth, kill him.” The dwarf smiled. “Now that was a threat, ser. See the difference?” Satire is similar to sarcasm in that it's a way of using humor to bring attention to foolishness or weakness. Satire is bigger in scale than sarcasm; an entire book, play or movie can be satirical, and satire is usually meant to make fun of social institutions, not just individuals. For example, George Orwell's Animal Farm is a satire of Soviet Communism. Parody is another literary device that is related to sarcasm. A parody is an imitation of a something that is meant to mock the original to comedic effect. For example, when Tina Fey appears as Sarah Palin on Saturday Night Live, she's parodying Palin's way of dressing and speaking. Consider the writer. If you know the writer personally, consider the writer's personality and point of view. This may offer insight as to whether or not this person is being sarcastic or not. Sarcasm is frequently used as a form of humor. If the writer is known to make jokes, he or she may be using sarcasm in text. Sarcasm is also used when someone is frustrated. Is this person one to get annoyed easily? Also, consider the writer's opinions. If this is a writer is, politically, pretty far to the right, he or she saying Obama's new healthcare policy is "just wonderful" is probably sarcasm. Examine context. Just as you can figure out the meaning of the word by examining the words around it, you can detect sarcasm by examining context. Where did you encounter this piece of writing you believe is sarcastic? Given the context, is there any evidence that would indicate sarcasm? What was happening leading up to the sarcastic sentence? Was the writer expressing an opinion, joking around with another person, or engaging in an argument? All three of these situations are ones where sarcasm is a likely response. You should also look at the text proceeding the potentially sarcastic portion. It may be leading in to sarcasm. For example, let's return to an above example. If the writer spent a paragraph criticizing Obama's healthcare plan, and then said the plan was "just wonderful," you can reasonably assume the "just wonderful" sentiment was meant to be sarcastic. Think about the medium. Where are you reading the text? Are you on an online forum or are you reading an e-mail for work? Certain mediums are more prone to sarcasm than others. You could get in trouble for sending a sarcastic e-mail in a professional setting. However, people use sarcasm all the time when casually commenting on articles online. Do not acknowledge it. If you are the target of sarcasm, there are a variety of ways to respond. If you do not want to engage in an argument, you can choose to simply not acknowledge sarcasm. Simply ignore the sarcastic comment. Return to the point you were trying to make without engaging in it. For example, let's return to the healthcare example. You could simply reiterate your own points in favor of healthcare while not acknowledging the "just wonderful" comment. If you want to deescalate a potentially intense situation and get back on track to making progress, simply ignoring sarcasm is a good route. Reiterate the sarcasm. Sarcasm may not be intended to be taken seriously. If you're just joking around with someone, and they text you a sarcastic comment, you can text back one of your own. Exchanging sarcastic texts and e-mails is a great way to have fun with a friend. Respond to a sarcastic work e-mail appropriately. A sarcastic e-mail is often a cause of frustration, especially if you get one in a work setting. This is often unprofessional and you may be unsure of the best response. Try to remain calm and respond to a sarcastic work e-mail appropriately. Wait a few hours to respond. If you're frustrated by an e-mail, you may end up saying something you don't mean in response. Give yourself time to process before firing back. Be the bigger person in this case. Do not fire back with sarcasm of your own. Instead, respond with something like, "I'm sorry you're feeling frustrated." As a lot of meaning is lost through written communication, it may be a good idea to take the conversation offline. Say something like, "I'll be in my office at 3 today, if you would like to discuss this matter further." If the sender refuses to deescalate the situation, and responds with further aggression or sarcasm, you may want to report the issue to someone in human resources. | See if the writer adds letters to common words. Watch for hyperbole. Look at any references. Scan for capital letters. See if the writing feels otherwise aggressive. Detect sarcasm in literary works and other media. Consider the writer. Examine context. Think about the medium. Do not acknowledge it. Reiterate the sarcasm. Respond to a sarcastic work e-mail appropriately. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Help-a-Cat-Recover-from-Hip-Dislocation-Surgery | How to Help a Cat Recover from Hip Dislocation Surgery | You can help your cat recover from hip dislocation surgery by setting out soft, comfortable bedding for it to sleep on. Additionally, if your vet recommends it, you should keep your cat confined to its cage or a single room to prevent it from jumping and hurting itself again. Make sure to keep your cat's food, water, and litter box nearby so it has access to everything it needs to keep healthy. Aside from the necessities, your cat will also need some attention to feel better, so take time to pet it and talk to it in a soothing voice. | Give your cat vet-recommended amounts of food and water. After the surgery, your cat will probably have very little appetite, and may not want any food for a day or two. Follow your veterinarian's advice on how much to feed your cat following the surgery, and make sure your cat has access to clean water. Providing your cat with too much food and water after surgery will make it nauseous, and it may vomit. Prevent your cat from licking or grooming the stitches. Your cat may try to claw or bite at the sutures following surgery. If the cat continually tries to scratch or groom the injured hip, ask your vet for a large plastic cone to place around your cat's neck, so it cannot bite or lick at the sutured area. Give your cat a restful environment. Your cat will be groggy and tired after the surgery, and may not return to a typical energy level for days. During the time they're healing, your cat will need a solitary, quiet place to recover. Also give the cat soft, comfortable bedding to sleep and rest on. If your cat is on cage rest, you can place soft towels or bedding in the kennel. It's very important to keep your cat from jumping after surgery, so ensure there isn't furniture or other items your cat may be tempted to jump on in their environment. If you have other animals or small children in the household, keep them away from the cat, as they will likely bother and stress the cat. Follow your surgeon’s guidance on the cat’s confinement. Due to the sensitive nature of the operation, your vet will likely recommend that the cat be confined following the surgery. In mild cases, the vet may suggest confinement to a single room in your house. However, if the vet is concerned that the hip may dislocate again, they may request that you confine your cat to a single large cage or kennel. In most cases, your vet will request that you bring the cat in for a follow-up inspection a month or two after the surgery. Do not allow the cat out of its cage. It's important that, while the cat recovers from its hip dislocation surgery, it be confined in a large cage or pet kennel. Although the cat will doubtlessly protest its restricted movement, it's for the cat's own good. If the cat is allowed into too large of an area, it may run or jump, and re-dislocate the hip that was just operated upon. In cases where the vet suggests milder confinement, keep the cat shut in a room, such as your bedroom, laundry room, or small basement. If possible, remove from the room low pieces of furniture (desks, chairs, dressers, etc.) that the cat could jump up onto, so it doesn't injure itself in the process. Feed your cat in the kennel. Since your cat will be confined for three to four weeks, you'll need to work out a system for feeding it within its large cage. If you visit your local pet store, you'll find various models of food and water bowls which attach directly to the wire mesh of the kennel door. Using a door-mounted type of bowl, provide your cat with frequent access to food and constant access to water. Attaching food and water bowls to the door itself will keep the floor of the kennel cleaner, since your cat won't be able to knock its food and water down onto the bottom of the kennel (and whatever blankets and pads it may have). Give your cat access to a litter box. Whether your cat is confined to a large kennel or to a single room, it will need to have frequent access to a litter box. If you cat is on cage rest, release the animal into a small room (such as a bathroom) which contains the litter box. Let the cat do its business, and then return it to the cage. This will be easier to provide if your cat is confined to a single room. Simply lay down a sheet of plastic on the ground, and then place the litter box on top of that. any prescribed medications. Give your cat Your veterinarian will doubtlessly send you home with various prescribed medications: likely one or two painkillers to keep your cat from suffering, and an antibiotic to prevent infection. Follow the vet's directions and the directions written on the packaging concerning how many pills you should give your cat, and how often they should be administered. If you run out of a certain medication but feel that your cat would benefit from more (e.g. a painkiller), contact the vet's office about a refill. Watch for signs of bleeding or lingering redness. It's normal for your cat's skin surrounding its sutures to be reddened (and even bleed lightly) for the first couple of days following the surgery. However, if the area stays red for longer than two or three days, or if you see a scab forming by the sutures, you should contact your veterinarian. Also contact your vet if you notice any other concerning symptoms in the area operated on, including: Swelling or bruising Fluid discharge or an unpleasant odor Give your cat attention. Your cat may be anxious or upset following the surgery. Especially if your cat is sequestered, make sure to spend time with it. Pet or stroke your cat and speak to it in a soothing voice. Spend time in the room your cat is in, even if they are in a cage. This will help your cat feel less anxious and more comfortable. Take the cat to the vet for a follow-up surgery. If your cat had any pins installed in its hip (in order to help the hip heal correctly) during the hip displacement surgery, you will need to schedule a follow-up appointment. During this appointment, the vet will surgically remove the pins. Plan to have the follow-up appointment and surgery three or four weeks after the initial surgery. If the cat's hip did not have pins inserted, there may be no need for a follow-up appointment. As always, check with your veterinarian to see if they recommend a follow-up. | Give your cat vet-recommended amounts of food and water. Prevent your cat from licking or grooming the stitches. Give your cat a restful environment. Follow your surgeon’s guidance on the cat’s confinement. Do not allow the cat out of its cage. Feed your cat in the kennel. Give your cat access to a litter box. any prescribed medications. Watch for signs of bleeding or lingering redness. Give your cat attention. Take the cat to the vet for a follow-up surgery. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Be-a-Good-Soccer-Defender | How to Be a Good Soccer Defender | To be a good soccer defender, start by perfecting your stance and keeping your feet staggered to keep your center of gravity low and stable. When you're on the ball, stay directly in front of the player you're defending so they can't easily get around you. Then, stay calm and watch the ball so that you're ready to take advantage of any mistakes the other player makes. If you're not on the ball, communicate with your teammates to let them know what's going on around them, like if someone is open or if you're in a position to attempt a tackle. | Perfect your defensive stance. As a defender, a low center of gravity is crucial. Bend your knees and tighten your core, keeping your arms out to your sides. You can brush away the arms of opposing players when they come near you. Stay on your toes with your feet about shoulder-width apart. This improves your balance and helps you block more space. Keep your feet staggered to avoid getting “megged.” Keep your eye on the ball, not the player you're defending. When you're off the ball, scan the field so you know where all the players are and can anticipate opportunities the other team may try to take advantage of. Defend both sides of a player. When you're on the ball, stay square with the player you're defending rather than moving to one side or the other. If you only defend one side of the player, you give them an out to get around you or pass the ball. Ask your teammates for help if you're having a hard time keeping up with the player and fear they may get through you. Focus on delaying them as long as possible until help arrives. Take advantage of mistakes. A bad touch or a misstep creates an opportunity for you as a defender. If you're defending a strong player, you have to be alert for the slightest mistake. Put the player you're defending under pressure to increase the likelihood that they get flustered and fumble. Pay attention to the smallest details and be ready to act immediately when you sense the other player is in trouble. You may only have a second to act to make a big difference in the game. Study your opponents. Most soccer players have signature moves and patterns that can tell you when they're gearing up for a shot or a breakaway. If you research opposing teams and watch previous games, you'll be better able to anticipate their behavior. As a defender, you need to be able to predict what your opponent is going to do and where they want to go so you can position yourself to stop them. When you're watching previous games, also look out for defensive techniques that have caused particular opponents problems. You can add those techniques to your own repertoire when you play against them. Communicate effectively to your teammates. As a defender, you have the ability to see the whole field and know where all the players are. You can let your teammates know when pressure is headed their way and when someone is open. For example, if there are no defenders near a player, you might say "time" to let them know they can take their time with the ball. Be loud and keep the other defenders alert and on their toes. If another defender is on the ball, give them as much information as you can about the situation around them so they can focus on the ball. For example, you might say "I got drop" if you're supporting another defender and are in position for them to attempt a tackle. If you're playing on a team that you don't have much experience with, you need to communicate more so you know what they like and what they want to do. Err on the side of more information, not less. For example, you might need to yell "feet" to let a player know to pass the ball directly to your feet rather than ahead of you. If that player was familiar with your style of play, they might already know how you like your passes. Tackle only when you can clear the ball. Tackling is one of the most dangerous parts of soccer, not only because you could get injured – you also risk fouling the other player. Keep this powerful defensive technique in reserve unless you are 100 percent sure you can regain possession of the ball for your team. The best time to tackle is when the attacking player has just made a mistake, such as a bad touch, or if they are off-balance. Head the ball safely. The defensive header can be an important tool for a defender and can get your team out of a tight spot. Proper technique allows you to head the ball safely and effectively, with little risk of concussion or other injury. Keep your eyes on the ball the whole time it's in the air, and line up your forehead with the part of the ball you want to hit. If you hit the top of the ball, it will go down to the ground. Hit the underside of the ball, and it will go up. Many beginning players have the tendency to close their eyes as the ball approaches, mainly out of fear or anticipation of the ball hurting as it hits their head. Practice keeping your eyes open the whole time. Heading drills will help you get rid of that anticipation and lose the fear of heading the ball. Adapt your training to your position. Different defensive positions require different conditioning to respond well to the demands that will be placed on their bodies during the game. If you are a center back, focus on strength and stability. If you are an outside back, do speed and mobility drills to compete with wingers. During the off season, schedule 2 or 3 strength days, along with 2 or 3 cardio days. You can also add a day that focuses on speed and power, by incorporating high-intensity interval training. In season, reduce the volume of your training to reflect the time you're spending on the field. For example, if your workouts were 2 hours long in the off-season, reduce them to 1 hour in season. You may only want 1 or 2 strength days in season. Combine distance running with sprints. Distance running improves your cardiovascular endurance, which is necessary if you're spending 90 minutes on the pitch in any given game. But you also need to be able to come up with short bursts of speed to keep up with fast forwards, midfielders, and wingers. Running in intervals is a good way to mimic the way you run during a soccer game. For example, you might jog for 10 minutes, then sprint for 2 minutes, then walk for 3 minutes. Repeat the interval until you've run for an hour. Strengthen your core to improve your balance. Working your core isn't just about having a six-pack like your favorite professional soccer player. A strong core improves your balance and makes it tougher for attacking players to push past you and make a break for the goal. Make planks a regular part of your exercise regimen. Start by holding the plank position for 30 seconds to a minute. Every few days, add a minute, working up to a 5-minute duration. Look for other core exercises that isolate various abdominal muscles. Make sure you're exercising all abdominal muscles evenly. Practices such as yoga and pilates can also help strengthen your core and improve your balance and flexibility. Use plyometrics to build power and strength. Plyometric exercises build fast-twitch muscle fibers in your body to give you explosive power to boost the sudden bursts of speed you need when chasing after a fast forward or midfielder. Explosive push-ups are a good plyometric exercise for defenders. Start in a regular push-up position and lower your chest to the floor. Push yourself up forcefully so that your hands leave the floor, then come back down softly, bending your elbows to help absorb the impact. Do 4 sets of 5 to 10 reps, resting for 2 minutes between sets. Get some experience on offense. Not every defensive player will have the ability to play offense, but if you have the opportunity, go for it. Playing offense gives you insight into what strikers want to do and how they do it so you can better anticipate their moves as a defender. If you don't have the opportunity to play on offense, the next best thing is to talk to friends of yours who are midfielders or forwards. Through them you can learn how they see the field and how they create opportunities to score. Knowing how their mind works will make you a better defender. Maintain confidence and have no fear. If an opponent senses that you're afraid to battle with them, they'll run right through you. You can't be a truly good soccer defender if you're afraid to challenge a strong opponent for the ball. You also can't be afraid to foul. While you never want to foul another player, you still want the opposing team to see you as someone who would stop at nothing to keep them from penetrating your side of the field and finding an opportunity to score. Remain calm and let your opponent make mistakes. Patience is paramount for a defender. Simply running forward and challenging every player that has the ball is aggressive, but it isn't the smartest way to play and you may end up racking up fouls. Stay on your toes and face the attacking player, presenting as much of your body's surface area as possible. Stagger your legs so you can switch directions quickly. Stay alert and ready to go after the ball at any moment, but avoid lunging (or diving in) for the ball or directly threatening the attacking player. While ready to strike, wait patiently for the attacking player to make their move. Apply pressure and strike when you sense weakness or see the attacking player make even a minor mistake. Practice good sportsmanship. When you're aggressively defending, it can be easy to get carried away in that mindset. Remember that the referees and the opposing team are people too. If an opposing player falls, help them get back up. Avoid arguing with referees or protesting, even if they've made a bad call. Just shrug it off and keep playing. | Perfect your defensive stance. Defend both sides of a player. Take advantage of mistakes. Study your opponents. Communicate effectively to your teammates. Tackle only when you can clear the ball. Head the ball safely. Adapt your training to your position. Combine distance running with sprints. Strengthen your core to improve your balance. Use plyometrics to build power and strength. Get some experience on offense. Maintain confidence and have no fear. Remain calm and let your opponent make mistakes. Practice good sportsmanship. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Feed-a-Horse-Magnesium | How to Feed a Horse Magnesium | Before you start giving your horse magnesium supplements, weigh your horse using a vet's scale or some weight tape. Consult your vet or check the instructions on the supplement to figure out the right dosage based on your horse's weight. Once you've determined the right amount, measure out some of the supplement and mix it with your horse's food. You can stir the powdered supplement into grain or mix it into a semi-solid treat, such as applesauce. If you'd rather not mix the supplement into your horse's food, consider using a mineral block as an alternative source of magnesium. | Determine your horse's weight. In order to provide your horse with the correct amount of magnesium, you will need to know how much your horse weighs. Depending on its age and breed, your horse could weigh anywhere from 840 to 1210 lbs. (380 to 550 kilograms). Your veterinarian should have a scale to weigh your horse on. You can also approximate your horse's weight with a weight tape. Measure the right amount. To begin with, try giving your horse 10 grams (1/3 ounce) of magnesium supplement a day. This should be safe regardless of the type of supplement used. If you feel that more is needed, consult with a veterinarian before increasing the dosage. If you increase the dose, be sure to follow the manufacturer's instructions. This usually involves calculating a dosage based upon your horse's weight and diet, which can be complicated. Consult with your veterinarian before increasing the dosage. If you decide to dose the horse yourself, understand that increasing the dosage may result in diarrhea and dehydration. This could make your horse very ill and possibly kill it. Mix the supplement into your horse’s feed. Once you have determined the correct amount of supplement to add, mix it into your horse's feed. If it is grain, stir the supplement into the mix. You may also sprinkle it on their hay. However, they will ingest much less of the magnesium this way. These supplements all come in powder form and generally need to be mixed with your horses feed or another food. Avoid mixing magnesium supplements with oils. The oil may bond to the magnesium and make it more difficult for the horse to absorb. Mix the supplement with a treat. If you are giving your horse a bitter magnesium supplement, like magnesium oxide, consider mixing it with molasses or applesauce to mask the bad flavor. If you do not mix it with something, your horse will not eat the supplement. Purchase a mineral block as an alternative to feed mixes. If you do not want to mix the magnesium with your horse's feed, you can also get a mineral block. These are typically designed for cattle, which require fewer trace minerals than a horse, but they can provide some help. Try Epsom salts if you want an inexpensive supplement. Magnesium sulfate, or Epsom salts, is a cheap source of magnesium that you can feed your horse. You can find large quantities of it at most farm supply stores. However, because the horse will only absorb a small amount of magnesium from Epsom salts, you will need to feed them more of it. In turn, this increases the risk of your horse developing diarrhea and dehydration. Talk with your veterinarian before administering any supplements. Use magnesium oxide for a higher concentration of magnesium. This mineral will give you the most bang-for-your-buck when it comes to magnesium supplements. Unlike Epsom salts that deliver a small amount, magnesium oxide has a much higher magnesium concentration and, therefore, provides your horse with more of the mineral. This means that a little of the compound can go a long way. However, it is very bitter, so you will likely have to mask the flavor. Try mixing magnesium oxide with salt for the best results. Consider mixing the magnesium oxide with applesauce or molasses to hide the bitter taste. Get magnesium aspartate for most efficient absorption. This magnesium supplement is twenty percent magnesium and highly water-soluble. This means that you do not need a lot, and what you use will be quickly absorbed through the lining of your horse's intestines. This is a higher end horse supplement, so you might want to evaluate whether it is worth using over cheaper options. Ask your vet to recommend a general vitamin supplement. If your horse has a heavy workload, it may benefit from a multivitamin that includes magnesium. Horse multivitamins usually come in the form of a powder, paste, or pellets. Your vet can recommend a high-quality multivitamin that meets your horse's nutritional needs. Research your soil’s mineral makeup. If you soil is low in magnesium, the grass that grows in it will be low in mineral as well. Considering that your horse receives the majority of its daily magnesium needs through a normal forage diet, it is important to understand if your soil is helping or hindering those needs. You can hire a soil testing service or test it yourself using a commercial test kit. The easiest way to avoid magnesium deficiency in your horse is to properly maintain your pastures. Evaluate magnesium levels in new grass or feed. Depending on the soil that they grow in, grasses can be magnesium deficient. The same is true of horse feed. In turn, this can cause your horse to develop a magnesium deficiency. Make sure that the grass and feed that your horse is eating are high in magnesium and other important minerals. Your retailer or distributor should provide information on the mineral make up of their feed. Consider what time of year it is. Because magnesium is water-soluble, it is easily leached from the ground during rainy seasons. If it has recently rained a lot, the grass will likely not have enough magnesium in it, leading to your horse developing a deficiency. You can increase the magnesium in the soil by sprinkling dolomite or Epsom salts in the field or pasture where your horse feeds. Observe if your horse seems nervous or skittish. Many consider skittishness a symptom of magnesium deficiency in horses. In fact, magnesium is often recommended as a supplement to help horses relax. If your horse seems more timid than usual, they may be suffering from a magnesium deficiency. There is little scientific evidence to support this claim. If your horse is acting anxious, consult your veterinarian before giving it any supplements. | Determine your horse's weight. Measure the right amount. Mix the supplement into your horse’s feed. Mix the supplement with a treat. Purchase a mineral block as an alternative to feed mixes. Try Epsom salts if you want an inexpensive supplement. Use magnesium oxide for a higher concentration of magnesium. Get magnesium aspartate for most efficient absorption. Ask your vet to recommend a general vitamin supplement. Research your soil’s mineral makeup. Evaluate magnesium levels in new grass or feed. Consider what time of year it is. Observe if your horse seems nervous or skittish. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Keep-a-Large-Group-of-Kids-Calm,-Quiet-and-Respectful | How to Keep a Large Group of Kids Calm, Quiet and Respectful | Keeping a large group of kids calm, quiet, and respectful is a challenge, but with some simple techniques, it should be easier to get them under control. With younger kids, try counting down or making a special sound you've chosen to get them to quiet down. For older kids, you're better off using a points-based reward system. Award kids points for being quiet, and deduct points if they act out or be noisy. If it's a specific group of kids that are being disruptive, try separating them so they stop messing around. Although dealing with noisy kids can be stressful, try to stay calm and use a positive tone of voice. This will encourage the kids to be calm themselves. | Stay calm. Although it can be stressful to be in a room full of loud children, getting aggravated will only make things worse. If the children see that you are becoming annoyed or you start yelling, the situation will likely only become louder and out of control. Always stay calm and act in control, even if you don't feel like you are. Try taking a deep breath and counting to 3 in your head before you do or say anything. Get everyone on board and stay consistent. Whether you work alone or with others, you will want to keep your commands and rules consistent. Keeping things consistent can help your kids know what's expected of them and when it's expected. Whenever you are trying to keep a group of kids quiet, always use the same commands and consequences to help make your directions clear. If you work with other instructors, have them use the same commands and consequences that you do. Make sure that everyone is phrasing “no's” in positive terms. For example, instead of saying, “No running!” everyone could say, “Use walking feet!” Avoid changing your instructions to keep quiet. Try to quiet the kids down using the same methods to make them routine and familiar. Try to use the same methods in different situations. For example, if you have a key word that means "be quiet", you'll want to use it in the classroom, on a field trip or any other situation you might need to. Separate disruptive children. Often times, it's only a few children who are causing the entire group to act unruly. If you can identify and separate kids who seem to make trouble or act inappropriately when they are together, you can help control the group's behavior. Always try to separate disruptive individuals to help keep things calm. Try standing near the kids who tend to act out the most when you are addressing the class. Cater to the age group. Not all methods will work as well as others, depending on the age group of the children you are working with. You'll need to use the right methods on the right age group to help keep them quiet. Always think about the ages of the kids you are trying to keep quiet and use the best methods with them. Younger kids respond well to playful ways of quieting down. Older children seem to respond well to group rewards or consequences. Know how to regain control over the kids. Even though you may have some great methods that usually work to keep kids quiet, they may not always work. Maybe the day is a particularly exciting one or the kids are just not ready to quiet down. If you feel that you've lost control over your class and the usual techniques for quieting down aren't working, try some of these basic methods to help you regain control: Slowly increase the level of consequences. For example, if you are using a point system, take away more and more points for every minute the kids are too loud. If one child is responsible for the disruption, send them out of the class and speak with them apart from the class. Changing the activity you are doing can shift the focus onto something other than the disruptive activity they are engaged in. Once your kids have started to quiet down, have them put their materials away and simply sit in silence. Wait for at least five minutes in silence before resuming. Have a special noise. It can be helpful to have a special noise that signifies it is time to be quiet. The noise itself can be anything you might like to use. You'll need to introduce the noise as being the “quiet sound” and only use it when you need your kids to settle down. Work with your kids to let them know that the quiet sound is something fun and something to pay attention to. You could try sounding a chime to indicate it's quiet time. Practice by having your kids get noisy and then seeing how fast they can be quiet after you make the noise. Create a “quiet spray”. It can be a fun idea to create a “quiet spray”, using a simple misting water bottle. Fill the bottle up with water and tell the kids that it is a “quiet spray” and that they need to be silent whenever the spray comes out. Have fun with it, giving it a sense of being magical or special, to help engage the kids and manage noise levels. Be careful not to make the spray a motivation for the kids to act out. Never aim the spray at 1 child in particular. Check out some helpful apps. There are many apps available for your phone or tablet that can be helpful when keeping a group of young kids quiet. These apps listen to noise levels in the room and emit a tone when they get too loud. This noise can be a signal to kids that they need to quiet down until the app stops making the noise. Use a countdown. If your group of children is getting too loud, you can try counting down with them. Tell the kids that it's time to do a quiet countdown, starting at ten and getting quieter as you countdown to one. Once the countdown is over, pick up where you left off and resume your lesson. Offer group rewards. It can be helpful to offer group incentives when dealing with noise issues. You might offer rewards for being quiet or penalties for being too loud. Make sure that the rewards or penalties are based on individual's actions to make all students feel responsible for the others success. For example, if one student is being too loud, you can add a negative point to the classes overall “rewards score”. If everyone quiets down quickly after you ask them to do so, try adding points to the classes score. Try using rewards in the form of a game, such as Jeopardy, so that you can reward kids for providing correct content information. Use a specific hand gesture. Middle school children can respond well to special hand signals when they are being too loud. Try coming up with a fun hand signal and telling the kids that it means it's time for silence or that they are being too loud. Throw up the hand signal and wait for everyone to calm down before proceeding. Make sure to practice your special signal with the group of children. Have a code word. You can use a code word that will let the kids know when they are being too loud. The word itself can be anything you would like to use. Tell the kids that if they hear the code word, it's time to quiet down. Make sure to only use the codeword when the kids are being too loud. Play some music or sing a song. You can try using a short song to get some of the kid's energy focused and redirected, before having them settle down for work. Play or sing a song for a few seconds and have them sing along or listen. Tell them that by the time the song is over, they have to be quiet and ready to work. Take break time away. Older students will place a high value on their free time. If a student or students are not quieting down, you can try making them stay after class or during a break. This penalty, or threat of it, should be enough to get most students to settle down and stay quiet when it's time to work. Use call and response to redirect the class’s attention. You can try implementing a call and response practice with your kids to help them quiet down. Get in some practice by being noisy, doing the call and response and then making sure that they quiet down after. Strive for complete silence while practicing. The next time your kids get too loud, issue your call and wait for their response, followed by silence. For example you might say "What are we?" and have your students whisper "Quiet". Older kids respond better to longer responses. You might try using lines from songs or famous passages in books that your class is reading. Play soft music before and during class. Playing some quiet music during class time can be an effective way of keeping things quiet. Keep the music itself quiet and have it playing as kids walk into the room. Playing soft music can help set the tone that it's time to work quietly and focus. Some people recommend playing classical music during class. It's best to avoid playing music too loudly or music that is too distracting. | Stay calm. Get everyone on board and stay consistent. Separate disruptive children. Cater to the age group. Know how to regain control over the kids. Have a special noise. Create a “quiet spray”. Check out some helpful apps. Use a countdown. Offer group rewards. Use a specific hand gesture. Have a code word. Play some music or sing a song. Take break time away. Use call and response to redirect the class’s attention. Play soft music before and during class. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Cure-Kennel-Cough-in-Dogs-Naturally | How to Cure Kennel Cough in Dogs Naturally | To cure kennel cough in your dog naturally, make sure it gets plenty of rest and doesn't play too much, which will give it the chance to recover. As your dog rests, try feeding it chicken stock to help its cough and keep it hydrated. You can also try feeding it a teaspoon of honey each day to soothe its dry throat. If you want to boost your dog's immune system, try purchasing dog vitamins, which can be placed in its food bowl during meal time. If your dog's symptoms get worse or don't improve, make sure to visit the vet right away for treatment. | Recognize the symptoms. Signs and symptoms of kennel cough are a persistent, dry cough with a “honking” sound, gagging, fever, coughing up white foamy phlegm, and/or nasal discharge. In most cases, your dog will appear healthy except for a cough. Consult your vet. If you suspect your dog has kennel cough, call your vet and schedule an appointment. Your vet will be able to accurately diagnose your dog. Let your veterinarian know that you would like to treat your dog with natural remedies. Your vet should be able to recommend safe products and methods to treat kennel cough naturally. If your dog's symptoms become worse, for example it develops a loss of appetite, becomes lethargic, or the cough gets worse, contact your vet immediately. Isolate your dog from other pets. Kennel cough is very contagious. It can be transmitted through the air or through contact with contaminated objects. If you own other pets, make sure to isolate your sick dog from these pets. Isolate your dog's bed, toys, and food dishes in a separate room. Confine your dog to this room for at least a week, or until you see your dog's symptoms improve. Make sure your other pets are in a separate room if you need to let your dog out. Use a humidifier. A kennel cough is a very dry cough. Therefore, keep the air in the room, or the area your dog is staying in, moist. Use a humidifier or a vaporizer to keep the air moist. Place the humidifier near your dog's sleeping area, or in the room your dog is staying in. Make sure to keep your dog away from smoke, as well as other irritating and noxious fumes. Have your dog breathe in steam. Steam is also an effective way to remedy your dog's cough. Steam will open up your dog's bronchial tubes and break up phlegm. With the door closed, turn on your shower as hot as it can go, and let the room steam up for 15 to 20 minutes. Bring your dog into the bathroom, and sit with it for 15 to 25 minutes to let your dog breathe in the steam. Give your dog honey. Honey will help soothe your dog's dry throat. It also has anti-bacterial properties. Give your dog a teaspoon or two of honey per day until its symptoms improve. Buy an all-natural honey. Offer your dog coconut oil. Coconut oil is thought to have beneficial properties that may help combat your dog's kennel cough. Pour two teaspoons of coconut oil over your dog's food daily, or let your dog lick it from a spoon. Remember, coconut oil is high in calories, so feeding a dog too much is not recommended. Likewise, dogs who need a low fat diet for weight loss or other health-related reasons should not be given coconut oil. Feed your dog chicken stock. Chicken stock is great way to soothe your dog's throat while ensuring it gets important vitamins, minerals, and proteins. Before feeding your dog, mix your dog's kibble or drinking water with the chicken stock. This is a particularly helpful method if your dog's appetite decreases because of the cough. Make sure your dog rests. While your dog is recovering, make sure it gets adequate rest. Try not to exercise or play with your dog too much. Also, try to provide a stress-free environment. Too much activity and stress can weaken your dog's immune system and prevent it from recovering. Keep your dog calm and relaxed by being calm and relaxed yourself. Limit screaming and yelling in the house. Also, limit other activities that can cause your dog to stress, like trimming your dog's nails or giving it a bath. Because a leash can irritate your dog's throat and make a cough worse, use a leash attached to a harness if you walk your dog. Kennel cough is usually treated with a week or two of rest. Buy probiotics. Probiotics are a great way to boost your dog's immune system. Keeping your dog's immune system up is critical when treating kennel cough. You can buy probiotics specifically made for your dog from your local pet supply store. Probiotics come in several different forms, such as powders, capsules, chews, and dog food. Sprinkle a recommended dosage of probiotics on your dog's food before they eat. If your dog is on an anti-biotic prescribed by the vet, make sure to wait at least two hours before administering the probiotic. If not, the two will cancel each other out. Supplement your dog’s diet with vitamins. Another great way to boost your dog's immune system is to supplement its diet with vitamins. Particularly, vitamin C is a great immune booster. Make sure to buy vitamins that are made specifically for dogs. You can buy them from your local pet supply store. Dog vitamins usually come in the form of soft, chewable tablets. You can either place a tablet in your dog's food bowl with its meal, or give your dog a tablet after it is finished eating. The recommended dosage depends on your dog's weight. Check the back of the bottle to see how much your dog needs. | Recognize the symptoms. Consult your vet. Isolate your dog from other pets. Use a humidifier. Have your dog breathe in steam. Give your dog honey. Offer your dog coconut oil. Feed your dog chicken stock. Make sure your dog rests. Buy probiotics. Supplement your dog’s diet with vitamins. |
https://www.wikihow.com/Fix-a-Toilet-on-a-Flushometer-That-Keeps-Flushing | How to Fix a Toilet on a Flushometer That Keeps Flushing | If the flushometer won't stop flushing on your toilet, you can easily fix it by cleaning out the gasket. For a manual flushometer, first, take a flat screwdriver and turn the screwdriver slot that sticks out to one side, which will turn off the toilet's water supply. Then, take a wrench and screw the top lid off the flushometer. Take the cover off and clean the gasket and weep hole since gunk buildup can cause the flushometer to work improperly. After they're clean, screw everything back into place and turn the water back on. | Depending on whether your flushometer is facing left or right, there should be a slot for a flat screwdriver on either side. Take a flat screwdriver and use it to turn the screwdriver slot and shut off the water from the flushometer. You may also need to take a cover off where the screwdriver slot is too. Take a wrench and screw the top lid of the flushometer off. You only need a wrench to loosen the top lid of the flushometer. After that, the lid screws right off. It may also be necessary to use a piece of paper when doing so, so that you don't scrape the chrome on the flushometer. Take the flange cover off. Be warned that you may make a mess with some water when taking this cover off. You will now see a gasket, which will have a lot of sediment. There also may be a tiny weep hole too, which is what is causing the suction to release and the vacuum to seal up, also causing the flushometer to not be able to stop running the water into the toilet. Take out and clean the gasket, including the weep hole. Clean it really well. You also will want to wash it out too. Something very tiny in width should be used to clean the port of the weep hole. Follow steps 1 to 5 in reverse order (skipping the cleaning part, as you have already cleaned) to get the toilet working again, leaving it good as new. If this solution didn't work, you will need to replace the gasket. Shut off the water per the first step in the "Manual Flushometer" method. Press and hold down the chrome button. Hold down with the hand pressing a button, which is used to flush the toilet manually. Do you hear two clicks two seconds apart? If so, then you need to clean or replace the diaphragm kit. This kit is accessed by taking off the top of the flushometer. You may have already serviced the solenoid. If that is the case, then tighten the solenoid, and check for any double stacked or missing bowl rings on the solenoid. | Depending on whether your flushometer is facing left or right, there should be a slot for a flat screwdriver on either side. Take a wrench and screw the top lid of the flushometer off. Take the flange cover off. You will now see a gasket, which will have a lot of sediment. Take out and clean the gasket, including the weep hole. Follow steps 1 to 5 in reverse order (skipping the cleaning part, as you have already cleaned) to get the toilet working again, leaving it good as new. If this solution didn't work, you will need to replace the gasket. Shut off the water per the first step in the "Manual Flushometer" method. Press and hold down the chrome button. You may have already serviced the solenoid. |
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