id
int64 0
75.6k
| 问
stringlengths 3
120
| 答
stringlengths 63
120k
| 元数据
dict | 来源
stringclasses 1
value |
|---|---|---|---|---|
6,919 |
How to Breed Fish
|
1. Selecting the Parent Fish
1-1. Pick out a healthy adult fish of each sex.
In order to breed fish, your first step is to determine their biological sex. Unlike some other animals, this will be trickier than looking for differences in their genitalia. The biological differences between species can vary greatly, but there are a few common traits to look for. Female Cichlids, for example, tend to have rounded bodies and less pronounced vents, while males usually display more vibrant coloration and sometimes have a small hump on their heads.
Make sure you only breed fish of the same species. While it may be possible for two different species to reproduce, there’s a good chance that the resulting hybrid will be feeble, deformed, or sterile.
Pass over fish that appear sick, injured, or deformed. They’re less likely to produce healthy offspring.
If you're at a loss for how to differentiate the sex of your fish, take them to an aquatic veterinarian or breeding specialist to have them examined by an expert.
1-2. Place the parent fish together in a separate tank.
This tank is often known as a “spawning tank.” Isolating the parent fish in a spawning tank shrinks the mating pool to 2, making them more likely to couple than they may be otherwise. It also allows you to tinker with the conditions inside the tank without being disruptive to a larger colony of non-mating fish.
For most species of fish, you’ll need a spawning tank with a capacity of at least 5–10 gallons (19–38 l).
When you first transplant the parent fish to a new tank, it's best to keep the conditions as close to their old tank as possible and make necessary adjustments very gradually to help them get acclimated.
1-3. Condition the fish to make them more robust.
Feed the parent fish a nutrient-rich, high protein diet while you’re encouraging them to mate. Proper nutrition will help them flourish and increase their fertility. Remember: the healthier the parents are, the healthier the babies will be.
Most average-sized aquarium species like Bettas and Angelfish prefer a live diet of fresh or frozen brine shrimp, white worms, or daphnia.
It’s best to condition fish for roughly 2 weeks before they begin mating.
Learn about your parent species’ natural diet to know what sorts of foods you should be feeding them in the early phases of breeding. Most fish do best with a balance of fresh herbaceous plants, as well as live offering like brine shrimp.
2. Creating Favorable Mating Conditions
2-1. Research the mating habits of the fish you’re attempting to breed.
Before you attempt to put 2 fish of the opposite sex together, make an effort to learn about their instinctive reproductive behaviors. Knowing what a particular species looks for in a mate and how they lay their eggs, as well as the exact manner in which they copulate, will allow you to closely mimic breeding conditions in the wild.
Read up on your species in a fish encyclopedia. You may also be able to find books and manuals that delve deeper into the specifics of aquarium breeding.
2-2. Optimize the conditions of the water in the tank
Apply your newfound knowledge of your parent species to make their surroundings more hospitable. Factors like temperature and the chemical and mineral balance of water can influence whether or not fish decide to mate. It may be necessary to use a separate heating element to warm the tank or soften the water to change its basic composition.
In order for Discus and related species to begin breeding, the water in the tank must be brought to between 82–88 °F (28–31 °C), with a pH level of 6-7 and moderate to low light.
Goldfish breed in spring. Lower the water temperature to 52 °F (11 °C). Then, when you are ready to breed them, gradually raise it 3 °F (1.7 °C) per day until it reaches 72 °F (22 °C).
If you have to make a significant adjustment to the water in the spawning tank, do it little by little. Water temperature, for instance, should only be raised or lowered 3-5 degrees over the course of about a week. Too drastic a change in too short a time may agitate or even harm the parent fish.
2-3. Simulate the rainy mating season.
This is when most fish begin to breed in the highest numbers. Use a watering can or circulating sprayer system to create the effect of a light downpour on the surface of the water. Changing the water level by draining the tank halfway and slowly refilling it can also trick fish into thinking that it’s the ideal time to fertilize and lay eggs.
When you first lower the water level in the tank, leave it shallow for a few days so that the fish have time to get used to the difference. Then, gradually return the water to its original level over the course of about a week, using water that’s 2–3 °F (−17 – −16 °C) cooler than what’s already in the tank.
For a more convincing simulation, try dimming the lights in the room and switching a flashlight on and off near the tank to make “lightning.”
2-4. Incorporate familiar physical features.
Add elements like stones, plants, and artificial tunnel structures to the tank to approximate the natural conditions under which the parent fish prefer to mate. Cichlids, for example, typically mate on flat rocks, while other species retreat to the safety of caves or drift closer to the surface of the water. A more recognizable environment will put them at ease and prompt them to increase their numbers.
Constructing the ideal physical environment for breeding to take place will largely be a matter of knowing how the fish choose a mate and lay their eggs.
These structures will also provide a place for the female fish to deposit her eggs.
2-5. Outfit the tank with a low-power filter.
If necessary, switch out the filter you currently have in your spawning tank for one with less suction. High-speed filters may over-circulate the water, creating strong currents that can sweep away tiny eggs or even suck them up.
Sponge filters are typically recommended for aquarium breeding.
Using a less powerful filter may make it necessary to clean or replace the water in the tank more frequently (up to 15-20% of the total volume every 1-2 weeks, depending on how murky it is).
3. Protecting and Caring for the Fry
3-1. Remove the parent fish from the spawning tank.
Once the female has laid her eggs or given live birth, return both parents to their original tank, where they will quickly acclimate to their ordinary environmental conditions. This will protect the eggs from being interfered with long enough for the fry (newborn fish) to hatch. Keep the conditions in the tank the same. It can now be used as a nursery tank to rear the fry.
With the exception of a few nurturing species, it’s not uncommon for adult fish to devour their own eggs.
If it’s not possible to set up a different tank for the fry, add an abundance of plants and other physical structures to give them a place to hide once they’re capable of swimming.
3-2. Limit the amount of light that enters the tank.
Cover the tank on 3 sides with paper or scraps of fabric thick enough to block out most of the light from outside. Eggs and newly-hatched fish are often sensitive to light—too much may stunt their development or even kill them. As they continue to grow, their tolerance will increase and you can return the aquarium to its original light levels.
Be sure to black out the sides that receive the most direct light exposure. Leave one of the larger sides uncovered for observation.
You can even leave the tank completely covered with a sheet when you’re not feeding or checking on the fry.
3-3. Change the tank water daily
Get in the habit of emptying the tank by 25-50% and replacing it with fresh water at the same time each day. Clean water is a must while the fry are learning to breathe and filter on their own.
Draw from the same source every time you refill the tank. It’s important that the new water have the same basic composition as the old.
3-4. Feed the young fish several times a day.
When the fry first hatch, they come equipped with a large yellow egg sac that provides sustenance for a few days. Once this egg sac disappears, you’ll need to begin feeding them yourself. Liquid egg yolks, crushed fish flakes, plankton and algae are all examples of foods used to nourish fry.
Look for the foods and supplements you need at pet stores that sell specialty fish supplies. As always, do your homework to find out what foods are suitable for the fry of the species you’ve selected for breeding.
Smaller species like tetras and rainbowfish, for example, won't be able to handle commercially prepared foods so soon after hatching, and need to be fed liquid infusoria or similar supplements that they can digest easily.
As the fry grow larger, they can graduate to more substantial live foods like brine shrimp and microworms.
Tips
Tank dividers can come in handy if you don’t have the option of setting up a separate spawning or nursery tank.
Cover the bottom of the tank with a heavy substrate material like loose stones or marbles. Eggs deposited by scattering fish species will nestle into the space between the substrate, keeping them off-limits to scavenging adults.
Cull weak and diseased fry from each crop of offspring so the healthy young aren’t forced to compete for resources.
Warnings
Keep in mind that as the number of fish goes up, the amount of available tank space goes down. Think carefully about whether you have the means to support an extensive colony before you make the decision to begin breeding.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:58:34",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Selecting the Parent Fish\\n1-1. Pick out a healthy adult fish of each sex.\\nIn order to breed fish, your first step is to determine their biological sex. Unlike some other animals, this will be trickier than looking for differences in their genitalia. The biological differences between species can vary greatly, but there are a few common traits to look for. Female Cichlids, for example, tend to have rounded bodies and less pronounced vents, while males usually display more vibrant coloration and sometimes have a small hump on their heads.\\nMake sure you only breed fish of the same species. While it may be possible for two different species to reproduce, there’s a good chance that the resulting hybrid will be feeble, deformed, or sterile.\\nPass over fish that appear sick, injured, or deformed. They’re less likely to produce healthy offspring.\\nIf you're at a loss for how to differentiate the sex of your fish, take them to an aquatic veterinarian or breeding specialist to have them examined by an expert.\\n1-2. Place the parent fish together in a separate tank.\\nThis tank is often known as a “spawning tank.” Isolating the parent fish in a spawning tank shrinks the mating pool to 2, making them more likely to couple than they may be otherwise. It also allows you to tinker with the conditions inside the tank without being disruptive to a larger colony of non-mating fish.\\nFor most species of fish, you’ll need a spawning tank with a capacity of at least 5–10 gallons (19–38 l).\\nWhen you first transplant the parent fish to a new tank, it's best to keep the conditions as close to their old tank as possible and make necessary adjustments very gradually to help them get acclimated.\\n1-3. Condition the fish to make them more robust.\\nFeed the parent fish a nutrient-rich, high protein diet while you’re encouraging them to mate. Proper nutrition will help them flourish and increase their fertility. Remember: the healthier the parents are, the healthier the babies will be.\\nMost average-sized aquarium species like Bettas and Angelfish prefer a live diet of fresh or frozen brine shrimp, white worms, or daphnia.\\nIt’s best to condition fish for roughly 2 weeks before they begin mating.\\nLearn about your parent species’ natural diet to know what sorts of foods you should be feeding them in the early phases of breeding. Most fish do best with a balance of fresh herbaceous plants, as well as live offering like brine shrimp.\\n2. Creating Favorable Mating Conditions\\n2-1. Research the mating habits of the fish you’re attempting to breed.\\nBefore you attempt to put 2 fish of the opposite sex together, make an effort to learn about their instinctive reproductive behaviors. Knowing what a particular species looks for in a mate and how they lay their eggs, as well as the exact manner in which they copulate, will allow you to closely mimic breeding conditions in the wild.\\nRead up on your species in a fish encyclopedia. You may also be able to find books and manuals that delve deeper into the specifics of aquarium breeding.\\n2-2. Optimize the conditions of the water in the tank\\nApply your newfound knowledge of your parent species to make their surroundings more hospitable. Factors like temperature and the chemical and mineral balance of water can influence whether or not fish decide to mate. It may be necessary to use a separate heating element to warm the tank or soften the water to change its basic composition.\\nIn order for Discus and related species to begin breeding, the water in the tank must be brought to between 82–88 °F (28–31 °C), with a pH level of 6-7 and moderate to low light.\\nGoldfish breed in spring. Lower the water temperature to 52 °F (11 °C). Then, when you are ready to breed them, gradually raise it 3 °F (1.7 °C) per day until it reaches 72 °F (22 °C).\\nIf you have to make a significant adjustment to the water in the spawning tank, do it little by little. Water temperature, for instance, should only be raised or lowered 3-5 degrees over the course of about a week. Too drastic a change in too short a time may agitate or even harm the parent fish.\\n2-3. Simulate the rainy mating season.\\nThis is when most fish begin to breed in the highest numbers. Use a watering can or circulating sprayer system to create the effect of a light downpour on the surface of the water. Changing the water level by draining the tank halfway and slowly refilling it can also trick fish into thinking that it’s the ideal time to fertilize and lay eggs.\\nWhen you first lower the water level in the tank, leave it shallow for a few days so that the fish have time to get used to the difference. Then, gradually return the water to its original level over the course of about a week, using water that’s 2–3 °F (−17 – −16 °C) cooler than what’s already in the tank.\\nFor a more convincing simulation, try dimming the lights in the room and switching a flashlight on and off near the tank to make “lightning.”\\n2-4. Incorporate familiar physical features.\\nAdd elements like stones, plants, and artificial tunnel structures to the tank to approximate the natural conditions under which the parent fish prefer to mate. Cichlids, for example, typically mate on flat rocks, while other species retreat to the safety of caves or drift closer to the surface of the water. A more recognizable environment will put them at ease and prompt them to increase their numbers. \\nConstructing the ideal physical environment for breeding to take place will largely be a matter of knowing how the fish choose a mate and lay their eggs.\\nThese structures will also provide a place for the female fish to deposit her eggs.\\n2-5. Outfit the tank with a low-power filter.\\nIf necessary, switch out the filter you currently have in your spawning tank for one with less suction. High-speed filters may over-circulate the water, creating strong currents that can sweep away tiny eggs or even suck them up.\\nSponge filters are typically recommended for aquarium breeding.\\nUsing a less powerful filter may make it necessary to clean or replace the water in the tank more frequently (up to 15-20% of the total volume every 1-2 weeks, depending on how murky it is).\\n3. Protecting and Caring for the Fry\\n3-1. Remove the parent fish from the spawning tank.\\nOnce the female has laid her eggs or given live birth, return both parents to their original tank, where they will quickly acclimate to their ordinary environmental conditions. This will protect the eggs from being interfered with long enough for the fry (newborn fish) to hatch. Keep the conditions in the tank the same. It can now be used as a nursery tank to rear the fry.\\nWith the exception of a few nurturing species, it’s not uncommon for adult fish to devour their own eggs.\\nIf it’s not possible to set up a different tank for the fry, add an abundance of plants and other physical structures to give them a place to hide once they’re capable of swimming.\\n3-2. Limit the amount of light that enters the tank.\\nCover the tank on 3 sides with paper or scraps of fabric thick enough to block out most of the light from outside. Eggs and newly-hatched fish are often sensitive to light—too much may stunt their development or even kill them. As they continue to grow, their tolerance will increase and you can return the aquarium to its original light levels.\\nBe sure to black out the sides that receive the most direct light exposure. Leave one of the larger sides uncovered for observation.\\nYou can even leave the tank completely covered with a sheet when you’re not feeding or checking on the fry.\\n3-3. Change the tank water daily\\nGet in the habit of emptying the tank by 25-50% and replacing it with fresh water at the same time each day. Clean water is a must while the fry are learning to breathe and filter on their own.\\nDraw from the same source every time you refill the tank. It’s important that the new water have the same basic composition as the old.\\n3-4. Feed the young fish several times a day.\\nWhen the fry first hatch, they come equipped with a large yellow egg sac that provides sustenance for a few days. Once this egg sac disappears, you’ll need to begin feeding them yourself. Liquid egg yolks, crushed fish flakes, plankton and algae are all examples of foods used to nourish fry.\\nLook for the foods and supplements you need at pet stores that sell specialty fish supplies. As always, do your homework to find out what foods are suitable for the fry of the species you’ve selected for breeding.\\nSmaller species like tetras and rainbowfish, for example, won't be able to handle commercially prepared foods so soon after hatching, and need to be fed liquid infusoria or similar supplements that they can digest easily.\\nAs the fry grow larger, they can graduate to more substantial live foods like brine shrimp and microworms.\\nTips\\nTank dividers can come in handy if you don’t have the option of setting up a separate spawning or nursery tank.\\nCover the bottom of the tank with a heavy substrate material like loose stones or marbles. Eggs deposited by scattering fish species will nestle into the space between the substrate, keeping them off-limits to scavenging adults.\\nCull weak and diseased fry from each crop of offspring so the healthy young aren’t forced to compete for resources.\\nWarnings\\nKeep in mind that as the number of fish goes up, the amount of available tank space goes down. Think carefully about whether you have the means to support an extensive colony before you make the decision to begin breeding.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Breeding fish in a home aquarium isn’t as easy as simply sticking a male and female of the same species together and hoping for the best—it requires careful preparation and monitoring. After you’ve researched the specific mating habits and preferred living conditions of the species you’re trying to propagate, your first step will be to select a healthy parent candidate of each sex. You’ll then need to carefully engineer key tank conditions like water temperature, pH level, lighting, and surrounding flora to make them more favorable for mating. These environmental changes help “set the mood” for the parent fish and ensure a successful coupling.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Selecting the Parent Fish\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Pick out a healthy adult fish of each sex.\", \"描述\": \"In order to breed fish, your first step is to determine their biological sex. Unlike some other animals, this will be trickier than looking for differences in their genitalia. The biological differences between species can vary greatly, but there are a few common traits to look for. Female Cichlids, for example, tend to have rounded bodies and less pronounced vents, while males usually display more vibrant coloration and sometimes have a small hump on their heads.\\nMake sure you only breed fish of the same species. While it may be possible for two different species to reproduce, there’s a good chance that the resulting hybrid will be feeble, deformed, or sterile.\\nPass over fish that appear sick, injured, or deformed. They’re less likely to produce healthy offspring.\\nIf you're at a loss for how to differentiate the sex of your fish, take them to an aquatic veterinarian or breeding specialist to have them examined by an expert.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Place the parent fish together in a separate tank.\", \"描述\": \"This tank is often known as a “spawning tank.” Isolating the parent fish in a spawning tank shrinks the mating pool to 2, making them more likely to couple than they may be otherwise. It also allows you to tinker with the conditions inside the tank without being disruptive to a larger colony of non-mating fish.\\nFor most species of fish, you’ll need a spawning tank with a capacity of at least 5–10 gallons (19–38 l).\\nWhen you first transplant the parent fish to a new tank, it's best to keep the conditions as close to their old tank as possible and make necessary adjustments very gradually to help them get acclimated.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Condition the fish to make them more robust.\", \"描述\": \"Feed the parent fish a nutrient-rich, high protein diet while you’re encouraging them to mate. Proper nutrition will help them flourish and increase their fertility. Remember: the healthier the parents are, the healthier the babies will be.\\nMost average-sized aquarium species like Bettas and Angelfish prefer a live diet of fresh or frozen brine shrimp, white worms, or daphnia.\\nIt’s best to condition fish for roughly 2 weeks before they begin mating.\\nLearn about your parent species’ natural diet to know what sorts of foods you should be feeding them in the early phases of breeding. Most fish do best with a balance of fresh herbaceous plants, as well as live offering like brine shrimp.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Creating Favorable Mating Conditions\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Research the mating habits of the fish you’re attempting to breed.\", \"描述\": \"Before you attempt to put 2 fish of the opposite sex together, make an effort to learn about their instinctive reproductive behaviors. Knowing what a particular species looks for in a mate and how they lay their eggs, as well as the exact manner in which they copulate, will allow you to closely mimic breeding conditions in the wild.\\nRead up on your species in a fish encyclopedia. You may also be able to find books and manuals that delve deeper into the specifics of aquarium breeding.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Optimize the conditions of the water in the tank\", \"描述\": \"Apply your newfound knowledge of your parent species to make their surroundings more hospitable. Factors like temperature and the chemical and mineral balance of water can influence whether or not fish decide to mate. It may be necessary to use a separate heating element to warm the tank or soften the water to change its basic composition.\\nIn order for Discus and related species to begin breeding, the water in the tank must be brought to between 82–88 °F (28–31 °C), with a pH level of 6-7 and moderate to low light.\\nGoldfish breed in spring. Lower the water temperature to 52 °F (11 °C). Then, when you are ready to breed them, gradually raise it 3 °F (1.7 °C) per day until it reaches 72 °F (22 °C).\\nIf you have to make a significant adjustment to the water in the spawning tank, do it little by little. Water temperature, for instance, should only be raised or lowered 3-5 degrees over the course of about a week. Too drastic a change in too short a time may agitate or even harm the parent fish.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Simulate the rainy mating season.\", \"描述\": \"This is when most fish begin to breed in the highest numbers. Use a watering can or circulating sprayer system to create the effect of a light downpour on the surface of the water. Changing the water level by draining the tank halfway and slowly refilling it can also trick fish into thinking that it’s the ideal time to fertilize and lay eggs.\\nWhen you first lower the water level in the tank, leave it shallow for a few days so that the fish have time to get used to the difference. Then, gradually return the water to its original level over the course of about a week, using water that’s 2–3 °F (−17 – −16 °C) cooler than what’s already in the tank.\\nFor a more convincing simulation, try dimming the lights in the room and switching a flashlight on and off near the tank to make “lightning.”\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Incorporate familiar physical features.\", \"描述\": \"Add elements like stones, plants, and artificial tunnel structures to the tank to approximate the natural conditions under which the parent fish prefer to mate. Cichlids, for example, typically mate on flat rocks, while other species retreat to the safety of caves or drift closer to the surface of the water. A more recognizable environment will put them at ease and prompt them to increase their numbers. \\nConstructing the ideal physical environment for breeding to take place will largely be a matter of knowing how the fish choose a mate and lay their eggs.\\nThese structures will also provide a place for the female fish to deposit her eggs.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Outfit the tank with a low-power filter.\", \"描述\": \"If necessary, switch out the filter you currently have in your spawning tank for one with less suction. High-speed filters may over-circulate the water, creating strong currents that can sweep away tiny eggs or even suck them up.\\nSponge filters are typically recommended for aquarium breeding.\\nUsing a less powerful filter may make it necessary to clean or replace the water in the tank more frequently (up to 15-20% of the total volume every 1-2 weeks, depending on how murky it is).\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Protecting and Caring for the Fry\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Remove the parent fish from the spawning tank.\", \"描述\": \"Once the female has laid her eggs or given live birth, return both parents to their original tank, where they will quickly acclimate to their ordinary environmental conditions. This will protect the eggs from being interfered with long enough for the fry (newborn fish) to hatch. Keep the conditions in the tank the same. It can now be used as a nursery tank to rear the fry.\\nWith the exception of a few nurturing species, it’s not uncommon for adult fish to devour their own eggs.\\nIf it’s not possible to set up a different tank for the fry, add an abundance of plants and other physical structures to give them a place to hide once they’re capable of swimming.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Limit the amount of light that enters the tank.\", \"描述\": \"Cover the tank on 3 sides with paper or scraps of fabric thick enough to block out most of the light from outside. Eggs and newly-hatched fish are often sensitive to light—too much may stunt their development or even kill them. As they continue to grow, their tolerance will increase and you can return the aquarium to its original light levels.\\nBe sure to black out the sides that receive the most direct light exposure. Leave one of the larger sides uncovered for observation.\\nYou can even leave the tank completely covered with a sheet when you’re not feeding or checking on the fry.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Change the tank water daily\", \"描述\": \"Get in the habit of emptying the tank by 25-50% and replacing it with fresh water at the same time each day. Clean water is a must while the fry are learning to breathe and filter on their own.\\nDraw from the same source every time you refill the tank. It’s important that the new water have the same basic composition as the old.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Feed the young fish several times a day.\", \"描述\": \"When the fry first hatch, they come equipped with a large yellow egg sac that provides sustenance for a few days. Once this egg sac disappears, you’ll need to begin feeding them yourself. Liquid egg yolks, crushed fish flakes, plankton and algae are all examples of foods used to nourish fry.\\nLook for the foods and supplements you need at pet stores that sell specialty fish supplies. As always, do your homework to find out what foods are suitable for the fry of the species you’ve selected for breeding.\\nSmaller species like tetras and rainbowfish, for example, won't be able to handle commercially prepared foods so soon after hatching, and need to be fed liquid infusoria or similar supplements that they can digest easily.\\nAs the fry grow larger, they can graduate to more substantial live foods like brine shrimp and microworms.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Tank dividers can come in handy if you don’t have the option of setting up a separate spawning or nursery tank.\\n\", \"Cover the bottom of the tank with a heavy substrate material like loose stones or marbles. Eggs deposited by scattering fish species will nestle into the space between the substrate, keeping them off-limits to scavenging adults.\\n\", \"Cull weak and diseased fry from each crop of offspring so the healthy young aren’t forced to compete for resources.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Keep in mind that as the number of fish goes up, the amount of available tank space goes down. Think carefully about whether you have the means to support an extensive colony before you make the decision to begin breeding.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
6,920 |
How to Breed French Bulldogs
|
1. Mating the Animals
1-1. Choose dogs with good breeding histories.
To breed French Bulldog puppies, you need to choose dogs that have a good health history, and who have characteristics you would like to pass onto puppies. Think about physical characteristics, like size and color, along with other qualities like temperament and personality.
Make sure the male and female dog aren't closely related.
Have both dogs genetically tested and tested for infectious diseases like Brucellosis so you know they're healthy before you breed them.
1-2. Track your bitch’s ovulation cycle.
Typically, a bitch will start ovulating about 5 days into her cycle, once she has started spotting. You’ll notice a bit of blood and irritability to indicate the beginning of her fertile period.
At this point, you can take your female to the vet for tests to confirm that she’s ovulating before you place her with the male for mating.
1-3. Put the dogs together when the bitch is ovulating.
When you have confirmation that your bitch is ovulating, place her in the same room as your stud. It’s best to put one hand on the female’s collar and the other under her ribcage to help steady her while the male mounts her. Make sure to supervise the mating session closely to prevent any aggressive outbursts.
If either dog shows signs of aggression, it’s best to keep them both on leashes during the mating session. That way you can pull them apart and control their interaction better to prevent injury.
During intercourse, the stud’s penis will enlarge while it is inside the female. This leads to a situation in which the penis gets “stuck” inside the female and the male dog will typically turn around so that it appears the two dogs are stuck butt-to-butt. This is completely normal and typically lasts around 20 minutes.
1-4. Get help from your vet for artificial insemination instead of physically breeding the dogs.
You can request veterinarian assistance with artificially inseminating your bitch, rather than actually mating the two dogs. This method can be much easier on the female, so it is often the method of choice for veteran breeders.
If you’re comfortable doing it yourself, you can try collecting the semen from the stud’s distended penis and dripping it into the bitch’s vagina with a clean dropper. Keep the female on her back with her hips slightly elevated to help ensure conception.
Don't try to perform this yourself unless you've been trained or you could hurt the dogs or cause an infection.
2. Birthing the Puppies
2-1. Take your female dog to the vet for prenatal care before the birth.
The vet will be able to do an ultrasound or radiograph to see how many puppies your dog is going to have. They'll also be able to check for any possible issues with the pregnancy and give you advice for birthing the puppies.
2-2. Watch for signs of labor.
When your female is ready to begin labor, it should be quite obvious by her behavior. Some common signs of labor include: restlessness, shivering, panting, loss of appetite, whining, and vomiting. Your dog may also retreat to a secluded area in preparation for delivery.
Once you start seeing these symptoms, the puppies will generally start arriving in 12-24 hours after the symptoms of labor start.
2-3. Interfere in the birthing process only when necessary.
Each puppy should come within 10-30 minutes of one another and the dam will usually bite off the umbilical cord, tear open the placental sac around each puppy, and begin licking the puppy vigorously to stimulate breathing and circulation. If your female is performing all of these activities on her own, leave her to it so she can bond with her puppies.
If the dam doesn’t seem to know what to do, then you will need to take action. First, gently tear open the placental sac so the puppy can breathe. Then, cut the umbilical cord and tie it off using thread. Clear away any fluid or mucus away from the puppy's mouth and nose. Then rub the puppy vigorously to help stimulate breathing and circulation.
2-4. Be prepared for a necessary cesarean.
French Bulldogs have small pelvises and large heads, so they usually cannot give birth naturally. Be aware of this fact and monitor your Frenchie for symptoms of a necessary C-section when she starts the labor process.
If the bitch is in labor for more than an hour, you should immediately take her to the vet for an emergency C-section.
3. Caring for the Puppies
3-1. Set up a whelping box.
This is a space where the mother can convalesce while she is recovering from delivery and take care of her puppies. The box needs to be big enough for the mother and all the puppies to lay down comfortably with tall enough walls to keep the puppies inside – about 32 in (81 cm) wide by 16 in (41 cm) deep by 12 in (30 cm) high.
You should make sure there is a heat source nearby like a heating lamp to help keep the puppies warm during the first week or so.
3-2. Make sure the puppies are eating enough.
Newborn puppies need to eat about once every two hours. Observe the new puppies to make sure they are making their way to their mother’s nipples for feeding times. If they can’t find it, try to squeeze the nipple and lead the puppy to the drop of milk to encourage it to eat.
If the puppies are not suckling, or seem to be constantly hungry (yelping and crying all the time), you may need to supplement with bottle feeding a high quality newborn puppy formula like Esbilac.
3-3. Monitor the puppies to make sure they are urinating and defecating.
French Bulldogs are not born knowing how to pee and poop. They learn these skills by being licked by their mothers. This motion encourages the puppies to use the bathroom.
If the mother doesn’t seem to be licking the puppies, you may have to do it. Dab a cotton ball in warm water and gently rub it across the puppy’s genitals to stimulate their excrement.
4. Becoming a Certified Breeder
4-1. Obtain a breedable female.
The most important thing you need to become a reputable breeder is a healthy, fertile female. You can always make arrangements with other breeders to use their males as studs, so you really just need a female to get started. Make sure your female is healthy and capable of carrying litters.
Take your female to the vet to get a full physical examination before you start breeding her.
Your female dog should be up-to-date on all its vaccinations, actively taking heartworm medicine, and free of any parasites.
4-2. Join several French Bulldog breed clubs.
Joining such organizations will increase your chance of being approved when you apply to be a certified breeder through the Kennel Club, or another organization. It will also help you network with other Frenchie breeders – this way you can find other studs and bitches to breed your own dogs with down the road.
Consider joining the French Bulldog Club of America, the French Bulldog Club of England, the Southern Bulldog Club, or any others in your area.
4-3. Apply to be an Assured Breeder, recognized by various dog organizations.
You can apply for the Kennel Club’s Assured Breeder Scheme online at https://www.thekennelclub.org.uk/breeding/assured-breeder-scheme/assured-breeder-scheme-application/. When you complete the application process, you’ll need to include information about your animals (including registration names and numbers), your personal history breeding French Bulldogs, any relevant club memberships, and pay a small fee (typically around $60 US) for membership fees.
Getting approved for this type of program will give you club access to advertise your litters in their publications and be listed as an approved breeder.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:58:35",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Mating the Animals\\n1-1. Choose dogs with good breeding histories.\\nTo breed French Bulldog puppies, you need to choose dogs that have a good health history, and who have characteristics you would like to pass onto puppies. Think about physical characteristics, like size and color, along with other qualities like temperament and personality.\\nMake sure the male and female dog aren't closely related.\\nHave both dogs genetically tested and tested for infectious diseases like Brucellosis so you know they're healthy before you breed them.\\n1-2. Track your bitch’s ovulation cycle.\\nTypically, a bitch will start ovulating about 5 days into her cycle, once she has started spotting. You’ll notice a bit of blood and irritability to indicate the beginning of her fertile period.\\nAt this point, you can take your female to the vet for tests to confirm that she’s ovulating before you place her with the male for mating.\\n1-3. Put the dogs together when the bitch is ovulating.\\nWhen you have confirmation that your bitch is ovulating, place her in the same room as your stud. It’s best to put one hand on the female’s collar and the other under her ribcage to help steady her while the male mounts her. Make sure to supervise the mating session closely to prevent any aggressive outbursts.\\nIf either dog shows signs of aggression, it’s best to keep them both on leashes during the mating session. That way you can pull them apart and control their interaction better to prevent injury.\\nDuring intercourse, the stud’s penis will enlarge while it is inside the female. This leads to a situation in which the penis gets “stuck” inside the female and the male dog will typically turn around so that it appears the two dogs are stuck butt-to-butt. This is completely normal and typically lasts around 20 minutes.\\n1-4. Get help from your vet for artificial insemination instead of physically breeding the dogs.\\nYou can request veterinarian assistance with artificially inseminating your bitch, rather than actually mating the two dogs. This method can be much easier on the female, so it is often the method of choice for veteran breeders.\\nIf you’re comfortable doing it yourself, you can try collecting the semen from the stud’s distended penis and dripping it into the bitch’s vagina with a clean dropper. Keep the female on her back with her hips slightly elevated to help ensure conception.\\nDon't try to perform this yourself unless you've been trained or you could hurt the dogs or cause an infection.\\n2. Birthing the Puppies\\n2-1. Take your female dog to the vet for prenatal care before the birth.\\nThe vet will be able to do an ultrasound or radiograph to see how many puppies your dog is going to have. They'll also be able to check for any possible issues with the pregnancy and give you advice for birthing the puppies.\\n2-2. Watch for signs of labor.\\nWhen your female is ready to begin labor, it should be quite obvious by her behavior. Some common signs of labor include: restlessness, shivering, panting, loss of appetite, whining, and vomiting. Your dog may also retreat to a secluded area in preparation for delivery.\\nOnce you start seeing these symptoms, the puppies will generally start arriving in 12-24 hours after the symptoms of labor start.\\n2-3. Interfere in the birthing process only when necessary.\\nEach puppy should come within 10-30 minutes of one another and the dam will usually bite off the umbilical cord, tear open the placental sac around each puppy, and begin licking the puppy vigorously to stimulate breathing and circulation. If your female is performing all of these activities on her own, leave her to it so she can bond with her puppies.\\nIf the dam doesn’t seem to know what to do, then you will need to take action. First, gently tear open the placental sac so the puppy can breathe. Then, cut the umbilical cord and tie it off using thread. Clear away any fluid or mucus away from the puppy's mouth and nose. Then rub the puppy vigorously to help stimulate breathing and circulation.\\n2-4. Be prepared for a necessary cesarean.\\nFrench Bulldogs have small pelvises and large heads, so they usually cannot give birth naturally. Be aware of this fact and monitor your Frenchie for symptoms of a necessary C-section when she starts the labor process.\\nIf the bitch is in labor for more than an hour, you should immediately take her to the vet for an emergency C-section.\\n3. Caring for the Puppies\\n3-1. Set up a whelping box.\\nThis is a space where the mother can convalesce while she is recovering from delivery and take care of her puppies. The box needs to be big enough for the mother and all the puppies to lay down comfortably with tall enough walls to keep the puppies inside – about 32 in (81 cm) wide by 16 in (41 cm) deep by 12 in (30 cm) high. \\nYou should make sure there is a heat source nearby like a heating lamp to help keep the puppies warm during the first week or so.\\n3-2. Make sure the puppies are eating enough.\\nNewborn puppies need to eat about once every two hours. Observe the new puppies to make sure they are making their way to their mother’s nipples for feeding times. If they can’t find it, try to squeeze the nipple and lead the puppy to the drop of milk to encourage it to eat.\\nIf the puppies are not suckling, or seem to be constantly hungry (yelping and crying all the time), you may need to supplement with bottle feeding a high quality newborn puppy formula like Esbilac.\\n3-3. Monitor the puppies to make sure they are urinating and defecating.\\nFrench Bulldogs are not born knowing how to pee and poop. They learn these skills by being licked by their mothers. This motion encourages the puppies to use the bathroom.\\nIf the mother doesn’t seem to be licking the puppies, you may have to do it. Dab a cotton ball in warm water and gently rub it across the puppy’s genitals to stimulate their excrement.\\n4. Becoming a Certified Breeder\\n4-1. Obtain a breedable female.\\nThe most important thing you need to become a reputable breeder is a healthy, fertile female. You can always make arrangements with other breeders to use their males as studs, so you really just need a female to get started. Make sure your female is healthy and capable of carrying litters.\\nTake your female to the vet to get a full physical examination before you start breeding her.\\nYour female dog should be up-to-date on all its vaccinations, actively taking heartworm medicine, and free of any parasites.\\n4-2. Join several French Bulldog breed clubs.\\nJoining such organizations will increase your chance of being approved when you apply to be a certified breeder through the Kennel Club, or another organization. It will also help you network with other Frenchie breeders – this way you can find other studs and bitches to breed your own dogs with down the road.\\nConsider joining the French Bulldog Club of America, the French Bulldog Club of England, the Southern Bulldog Club, or any others in your area.\\n4-3. Apply to be an Assured Breeder, recognized by various dog organizations.\\nYou can apply for the Kennel Club’s Assured Breeder Scheme online at https://www.thekennelclub.org.uk/breeding/assured-breeder-scheme/assured-breeder-scheme-application/. When you complete the application process, you’ll need to include information about your animals (including registration names and numbers), your personal history breeding French Bulldogs, any relevant club memberships, and pay a small fee (typically around $60 US) for membership fees.\\nGetting approved for this type of program will give you club access to advertise your litters in their publications and be listed as an approved breeder.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"French Bulldogs are adorable animals that make great family pets with their loving, friendly personalities. If you want to breed French Bulldogs, you need to tackle the task of becoming a breeder with great care and attention. Make sure you choose males and females with good health histories that are not closely related. Monitor the breeding encounter and watch out for signs of necessary C-section. Join some reputable breed organizations and start building up your credibility as a breeder.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Mating the Animals\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Choose dogs with good breeding histories.\", \"描述\": \"To breed French Bulldog puppies, you need to choose dogs that have a good health history, and who have characteristics you would like to pass onto puppies. Think about physical characteristics, like size and color, along with other qualities like temperament and personality.\\nMake sure the male and female dog aren't closely related.\\nHave both dogs genetically tested and tested for infectious diseases like Brucellosis so you know they're healthy before you breed them.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Track your bitch’s ovulation cycle.\", \"描述\": \"Typically, a bitch will start ovulating about 5 days into her cycle, once she has started spotting. You’ll notice a bit of blood and irritability to indicate the beginning of her fertile period.\\nAt this point, you can take your female to the vet for tests to confirm that she’s ovulating before you place her with the male for mating.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Put the dogs together when the bitch is ovulating.\", \"描述\": \"When you have confirmation that your bitch is ovulating, place her in the same room as your stud. It’s best to put one hand on the female’s collar and the other under her ribcage to help steady her while the male mounts her. Make sure to supervise the mating session closely to prevent any aggressive outbursts.\\nIf either dog shows signs of aggression, it’s best to keep them both on leashes during the mating session. That way you can pull them apart and control their interaction better to prevent injury.\\nDuring intercourse, the stud’s penis will enlarge while it is inside the female. This leads to a situation in which the penis gets “stuck” inside the female and the male dog will typically turn around so that it appears the two dogs are stuck butt-to-butt. This is completely normal and typically lasts around 20 minutes.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Get help from your vet for artificial insemination instead of physically breeding the dogs.\", \"描述\": \"You can request veterinarian assistance with artificially inseminating your bitch, rather than actually mating the two dogs. This method can be much easier on the female, so it is often the method of choice for veteran breeders.\\nIf you’re comfortable doing it yourself, you can try collecting the semen from the stud’s distended penis and dripping it into the bitch’s vagina with a clean dropper. Keep the female on her back with her hips slightly elevated to help ensure conception.\\nDon't try to perform this yourself unless you've been trained or you could hurt the dogs or cause an infection.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Birthing the Puppies\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Take your female dog to the vet for prenatal care before the birth.\", \"描述\": \"The vet will be able to do an ultrasound or radiograph to see how many puppies your dog is going to have. They'll also be able to check for any possible issues with the pregnancy and give you advice for birthing the puppies.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Watch for signs of labor.\", \"描述\": \"When your female is ready to begin labor, it should be quite obvious by her behavior. Some common signs of labor include: restlessness, shivering, panting, loss of appetite, whining, and vomiting. Your dog may also retreat to a secluded area in preparation for delivery.\\nOnce you start seeing these symptoms, the puppies will generally start arriving in 12-24 hours after the symptoms of labor start.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Interfere in the birthing process only when necessary.\", \"描述\": \"Each puppy should come within 10-30 minutes of one another and the dam will usually bite off the umbilical cord, tear open the placental sac around each puppy, and begin licking the puppy vigorously to stimulate breathing and circulation. If your female is performing all of these activities on her own, leave her to it so she can bond with her puppies.\\nIf the dam doesn’t seem to know what to do, then you will need to take action. First, gently tear open the placental sac so the puppy can breathe. Then, cut the umbilical cord and tie it off using thread. Clear away any fluid or mucus away from the puppy's mouth and nose. Then rub the puppy vigorously to help stimulate breathing and circulation.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Be prepared for a necessary cesarean.\", \"描述\": \"French Bulldogs have small pelvises and large heads, so they usually cannot give birth naturally. Be aware of this fact and monitor your Frenchie for symptoms of a necessary C-section when she starts the labor process.\\nIf the bitch is in labor for more than an hour, you should immediately take her to the vet for an emergency C-section.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Caring for the Puppies\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Set up a whelping box.\", \"描述\": \"This is a space where the mother can convalesce while she is recovering from delivery and take care of her puppies. The box needs to be big enough for the mother and all the puppies to lay down comfortably with tall enough walls to keep the puppies inside – about 32 in (81 cm) wide by 16 in (41 cm) deep by 12 in (30 cm) high. \\nYou should make sure there is a heat source nearby like a heating lamp to help keep the puppies warm during the first week or so.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Make sure the puppies are eating enough.\", \"描述\": \"Newborn puppies need to eat about once every two hours. Observe the new puppies to make sure they are making their way to their mother’s nipples for feeding times. If they can’t find it, try to squeeze the nipple and lead the puppy to the drop of milk to encourage it to eat.\\nIf the puppies are not suckling, or seem to be constantly hungry (yelping and crying all the time), you may need to supplement with bottle feeding a high quality newborn puppy formula like Esbilac.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Monitor the puppies to make sure they are urinating and defecating.\", \"描述\": \"French Bulldogs are not born knowing how to pee and poop. They learn these skills by being licked by their mothers. This motion encourages the puppies to use the bathroom.\\nIf the mother doesn’t seem to be licking the puppies, you may have to do it. Dab a cotton ball in warm water and gently rub it across the puppy’s genitals to stimulate their excrement.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Becoming a Certified Breeder\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Obtain a breedable female.\", \"描述\": \"The most important thing you need to become a reputable breeder is a healthy, fertile female. You can always make arrangements with other breeders to use their males as studs, so you really just need a female to get started. Make sure your female is healthy and capable of carrying litters.\\nTake your female to the vet to get a full physical examination before you start breeding her.\\nYour female dog should be up-to-date on all its vaccinations, actively taking heartworm medicine, and free of any parasites.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Join several French Bulldog breed clubs.\", \"描述\": \"Joining such organizations will increase your chance of being approved when you apply to be a certified breeder through the Kennel Club, or another organization. It will also help you network with other Frenchie breeders – this way you can find other studs and bitches to breed your own dogs with down the road.\\nConsider joining the French Bulldog Club of America, the French Bulldog Club of England, the Southern Bulldog Club, or any others in your area.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Apply to be an Assured Breeder, recognized by various dog organizations.\", \"描述\": \"You can apply for the Kennel Club’s Assured Breeder Scheme online at https://www.thekennelclub.org.uk/breeding/assured-breeder-scheme/assured-breeder-scheme-application/. When you complete the application process, you’ll need to include information about your animals (including registration names and numbers), your personal history breeding French Bulldogs, any relevant club memberships, and pay a small fee (typically around $60 US) for membership fees.\\nGetting approved for this type of program will give you club access to advertise your litters in their publications and be listed as an approved breeder.\"}]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
6,921 |
How to Breed Freshwater Angelfish
|
1. Spawning Tank Setup
1-1. Use a 20+ gallon tank.
Before you begin breeding, you must set up the spawning tank of 20 gallons or larger. Set it up at least 3 months in advance to make sure the conditions are ideal. A 20 to 30 gallon tank is best because Angelfish need a tall and fairly wide tank to accommodate their large size.
If an Angelfish feels cramped, they will not feel secure and will not spawn.
1-2. Use a sponge filter.
Angelfish require clean water that’s not high in nitrites or ammonia for successful breeding. Using one or two sponge filters can rid the water of these.
The sponge filter also doesn’t trap fry, the fledgling fish, like some other filters.
Clean the sponge filter every couple of weeks to keep the tank water in the best condition.
1-3. Make sure the pH is between 6.5 and 7.
Though very adaptable, most Angelfish do best in soft water that’s slightly acidic to neutral with a pH of about 6.5 to 7.
If your water is too hard, use a de-ionization filter. If your water is too alkaline, use a reverse osmosis filter. Either of these filters can be obtained at an aquarium supply store.
1-4. Place a heater on each end of the tank.
Put an aquarium heater at each end of the tank to ensure the correct temperature. Set the heat to 78 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit (25 to 29 degrees Celsius) for optimal breeding conditions.
1-5. Place plants and driftwood in the tank.
Make sure to include several plants and some driftwood in the tank, so the Angelfish will have places to hide and feel secure.
1-6. Insert a spawning slate or flower pot into the tank at an angle.
Angelfish prefer a spawning slate or terracotta flower pot on which to lay their eggs. Place the slate at a 30 degree angle against the tank wall for optimal results.
Place several spawning slates around the tank to give your Angelfish options.
1-7. Create a dim environment.
Angelfish will feel more secure in a dim environment, so arrange for natural light and make the tank darker by painting the outside bottom of the tank a black matte. This cuts down on reflection, which will make the Angelfish feel more secure.
Instead of overhead lights in the room, use plant lights.
2. Pairing Angelfish
2-1. Set up a 55 gallon aquarium.
In order to prepare for establishing a mating pair of Angelfish, get a 55 gallon or larger sized aquarium. An aquarium of this size will allow the Angelfish enough space to comfortably live.
Use a filter to keep the tank clean.
Make sure the water temperature stays between 78 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit (25 to 29 degrees Celsius) with a water heater.
Keep the pH level between 6.5 and 7.
Line the bottom of the tank with sand and add large water plants. Also include driftwood for the fish.
2-2. Obtain 6 to 12 juvenile Angelfish of good breeding quality.
Since Angelfish prefer to choose their own mate, you’ll have the most successful breeding experience if you obtain 6 to 12 juvenile Angelfish and let them choose their own mates. Choose fish that have good shape, finnage, and color to produce the best results for reproduction.
Because it’s near impossible to tell the sex of Angelfish, you can’t know what sexes you’re getting. If you get somewhere between 6 to 12 Angelfish, chances are you’ll have enough of each sex for the Angelfish to find a mate they prefer.
When choosing a quality Angelfish, look for a body that’s round and taller than it is wide. Because Angelfish fins are the hallmark of the species, the best fins are straight and free of curves or blemishes. Coloration of the Angelfish is difficult to assess since it’s often based on environment or stress levels. However, be aware of a lack of color or dullness.
2-3. Watch for pairing from 6 to 12 months of age.
When your Angelfish is 6 to 12 months old they’ll reach sexual maturity, and you should begin looking for signs of them pairing off. You can tell that two Angelfish have paired by observing your fish and seeing which ones are staying close together and displaying territorial behavior.
Pairs of Angelfish will often claim a section of the tank as their own and chase off others who come near.
If you think you’ve identified a pair, watch them for 1 or 2 days until you’re certain.
2-4. Remove the pair to the spawning tank.
Once you’ve identified your pair, remove them to the spawning tank, as they’ll spawn more successfully when isolated. This ensures that they do not spawn in the larger tank with the other fish, who might eat the eggs or fry.
Because the spawning tank will have similar conditions to the 55 gallon tank you can transition the Angelfish quickly. Place the Angelfish in a bag of water from the 55 gallon tank, and put this bag in the spawning tank for an hour. Then you can open the bag and allow the fish to swim out.
3. Breeding Pair Care
3-1. Feed the Angelfish heavily.
Once you’ve relocated your paired Angelfish to the spawning tank, begin feeding them more heavily than you had before. Try feeding them about three to four times a day. An increase in food consumption induces breeding in Angelfish.
Feed Angelfish bloodworms, frozen brine shrimp, white worms, or a beef heart mixture.
Remove any uneaten food after 3 to 5 minutes to help keep the water clean.
3-2. Change the tank water frequently.
Angelfish require clean water to breed successfully, and because of the increased feedings, the tank water will need more frequent replacing. Change out at least 30% of the water once a week.
It’s even better to change out out 30% of the water daily.
3-3. Look for signs of reproductive readiness.
Usually within 5 to 8 days of being placed in the spawning tank, your Angelfish will be ready to breed. The female Angelfish’s belly will swell and a papilla, an organ between the ventral and anal fin, will appear on both the male and the female.
The female’s papilla is larger than the male’s, which is how you can tell the sexes of Angelfish apart.
3-4. Make sure the eggs get air circulation.
Because the Angelfish are captive, they might not retain all of their wild parenting instincts. After the eggs are laid and the male fertilizes them, you need to watch to see if the Angelfish fan the eggs with their fins. If not, this means the eggs aren’t getting the air circulation they need. You should turn the spawning slate upside down to increase a good flow of water.
If using a flower pot, you can remove the eggs entirely from the tank and place them in another tank with the same pH and water temperature as the spawning tank.
3-5. Be patient.
It may take the Angelfish a few tries at breeding to be successful. Sometimes Angelfish will eat their eggs or sometimes the eggs don’t hatch. Angelfish breed as often as every 7 to 10 days, so be patient and let them try again.
4. Raising the Fry
4-1. Wait for the fry to hatch and free-swim.
About 3 to 4 days after the eggs were laid they’ll hatch and wiggle, still attached to the slate. After an additional five days, the fry will detach from the slate and begin free-swimming.
4-2. Feed the fry.
After you notice the fry free-swimming in a cloud, it’s time to begin feeding them up to six times a day. Feed them with newly hatched brine shrimp or micro-worms.
4-3. Remove the parents after several days.
After one or two days of feeding the fry, remove the parent Angelfish from the spawning aquarium, and reintroduce them to your 55 gallon tank with the rest of your Angelfish.
4-4. Increase feeding after two weeks.
Around two weeks of age, the fry will begin taking on the shape of an Angelfish. At this point they’ll begin needing more food and you can feed them as you feed your adult Angelfish.
Feed them twice a day only what they can eat in three minutes.
Tips
If your paired Angelfish aren’t breeding together in their spawning tank, you can always raise the water temperature a few degrees, change out 75% of the water in the tank, or put in a few extra plants.
Warnings
If you think you’ve purchased one male and one female Angelfish, they won’t necessarily take to breeding with each other. It’s always best to let the Angelfish decide on their breeding partner.
You can purchase an already matched pair of Angelfish from your local fish store. However, be sure to ask if they’ve successfully bred and how old they are. You don’t want to pay a lot of money for an already matched pair that’s unsuccessful or near infertility around three years of age.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:58:35",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Spawning Tank Setup\\n1-1. Use a 20+ gallon tank.\\nBefore you begin breeding, you must set up the spawning tank of 20 gallons or larger. Set it up at least 3 months in advance to make sure the conditions are ideal. A 20 to 30 gallon tank is best because Angelfish need a tall and fairly wide tank to accommodate their large size.\\nIf an Angelfish feels cramped, they will not feel secure and will not spawn.\\n1-2. Use a sponge filter.\\nAngelfish require clean water that’s not high in nitrites or ammonia for successful breeding. Using one or two sponge filters can rid the water of these.\\nThe sponge filter also doesn’t trap fry, the fledgling fish, like some other filters.\\nClean the sponge filter every couple of weeks to keep the tank water in the best condition.\\n1-3. Make sure the pH is between 6.5 and 7.\\nThough very adaptable, most Angelfish do best in soft water that’s slightly acidic to neutral with a pH of about 6.5 to 7.\\nIf your water is too hard, use a de-ionization filter. If your water is too alkaline, use a reverse osmosis filter. Either of these filters can be obtained at an aquarium supply store.\\n1-4. Place a heater on each end of the tank.\\nPut an aquarium heater at each end of the tank to ensure the correct temperature. Set the heat to 78 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit (25 to 29 degrees Celsius) for optimal breeding conditions.\\n1-5. Place plants and driftwood in the tank.\\nMake sure to include several plants and some driftwood in the tank, so the Angelfish will have places to hide and feel secure.\\n1-6. Insert a spawning slate or flower pot into the tank at an angle.\\nAngelfish prefer a spawning slate or terracotta flower pot on which to lay their eggs. Place the slate at a 30 degree angle against the tank wall for optimal results.\\nPlace several spawning slates around the tank to give your Angelfish options.\\n1-7. Create a dim environment.\\nAngelfish will feel more secure in a dim environment, so arrange for natural light and make the tank darker by painting the outside bottom of the tank a black matte. This cuts down on reflection, which will make the Angelfish feel more secure.\\nInstead of overhead lights in the room, use plant lights.\\n2. Pairing Angelfish\\n2-1. Set up a 55 gallon aquarium.\\nIn order to prepare for establishing a mating pair of Angelfish, get a 55 gallon or larger sized aquarium. An aquarium of this size will allow the Angelfish enough space to comfortably live.\\nUse a filter to keep the tank clean.\\nMake sure the water temperature stays between 78 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit (25 to 29 degrees Celsius) with a water heater.\\nKeep the pH level between 6.5 and 7.\\nLine the bottom of the tank with sand and add large water plants. Also include driftwood for the fish.\\n2-2. Obtain 6 to 12 juvenile Angelfish of good breeding quality.\\nSince Angelfish prefer to choose their own mate, you’ll have the most successful breeding experience if you obtain 6 to 12 juvenile Angelfish and let them choose their own mates. Choose fish that have good shape, finnage, and color to produce the best results for reproduction.\\nBecause it’s near impossible to tell the sex of Angelfish, you can’t know what sexes you’re getting. If you get somewhere between 6 to 12 Angelfish, chances are you’ll have enough of each sex for the Angelfish to find a mate they prefer.\\nWhen choosing a quality Angelfish, look for a body that’s round and taller than it is wide. Because Angelfish fins are the hallmark of the species, the best fins are straight and free of curves or blemishes. Coloration of the Angelfish is difficult to assess since it’s often based on environment or stress levels. However, be aware of a lack of color or dullness.\\n2-3. Watch for pairing from 6 to 12 months of age.\\nWhen your Angelfish is 6 to 12 months old they’ll reach sexual maturity, and you should begin looking for signs of them pairing off. You can tell that two Angelfish have paired by observing your fish and seeing which ones are staying close together and displaying territorial behavior.\\nPairs of Angelfish will often claim a section of the tank as their own and chase off others who come near.\\nIf you think you’ve identified a pair, watch them for 1 or 2 days until you’re certain.\\n2-4. Remove the pair to the spawning tank.\\nOnce you’ve identified your pair, remove them to the spawning tank, as they’ll spawn more successfully when isolated. This ensures that they do not spawn in the larger tank with the other fish, who might eat the eggs or fry.\\nBecause the spawning tank will have similar conditions to the 55 gallon tank you can transition the Angelfish quickly. Place the Angelfish in a bag of water from the 55 gallon tank, and put this bag in the spawning tank for an hour. Then you can open the bag and allow the fish to swim out.\\n3. Breeding Pair Care\\n3-1. Feed the Angelfish heavily.\\nOnce you’ve relocated your paired Angelfish to the spawning tank, begin feeding them more heavily than you had before. Try feeding them about three to four times a day. An increase in food consumption induces breeding in Angelfish.\\nFeed Angelfish bloodworms, frozen brine shrimp, white worms, or a beef heart mixture.\\nRemove any uneaten food after 3 to 5 minutes to help keep the water clean.\\n3-2. Change the tank water frequently.\\nAngelfish require clean water to breed successfully, and because of the increased feedings, the tank water will need more frequent replacing. Change out at least 30% of the water once a week.\\nIt’s even better to change out out 30% of the water daily.\\n3-3. Look for signs of reproductive readiness.\\nUsually within 5 to 8 days of being placed in the spawning tank, your Angelfish will be ready to breed. The female Angelfish’s belly will swell and a papilla, an organ between the ventral and anal fin, will appear on both the male and the female.\\nThe female’s papilla is larger than the male’s, which is how you can tell the sexes of Angelfish apart.\\n3-4. Make sure the eggs get air circulation.\\nBecause the Angelfish are captive, they might not retain all of their wild parenting instincts. After the eggs are laid and the male fertilizes them, you need to watch to see if the Angelfish fan the eggs with their fins. If not, this means the eggs aren’t getting the air circulation they need. You should turn the spawning slate upside down to increase a good flow of water.\\nIf using a flower pot, you can remove the eggs entirely from the tank and place them in another tank with the same pH and water temperature as the spawning tank.\\n3-5. Be patient.\\nIt may take the Angelfish a few tries at breeding to be successful. Sometimes Angelfish will eat their eggs or sometimes the eggs don’t hatch. Angelfish breed as often as every 7 to 10 days, so be patient and let them try again.\\n4. Raising the Fry\\n4-1. Wait for the fry to hatch and free-swim.\\nAbout 3 to 4 days after the eggs were laid they’ll hatch and wiggle, still attached to the slate. After an additional five days, the fry will detach from the slate and begin free-swimming.\\n4-2. Feed the fry.\\nAfter you notice the fry free-swimming in a cloud, it’s time to begin feeding them up to six times a day. Feed them with newly hatched brine shrimp or micro-worms.\\n4-3. Remove the parents after several days.\\nAfter one or two days of feeding the fry, remove the parent Angelfish from the spawning aquarium, and reintroduce them to your 55 gallon tank with the rest of your Angelfish.\\n4-4. Increase feeding after two weeks.\\nAround two weeks of age, the fry will begin taking on the shape of an Angelfish. At this point they’ll begin needing more food and you can feed them as you feed your adult Angelfish.\\nFeed them twice a day only what they can eat in three minutes.\\nTips\\nIf your paired Angelfish aren’t breeding together in their spawning tank, you can always raise the water temperature a few degrees, change out 75% of the water in the tank, or put in a few extra plants.\\nWarnings\\nIf you think you’ve purchased one male and one female Angelfish, they won’t necessarily take to breeding with each other. It’s always best to let the Angelfish decide on their breeding partner.\\nYou can purchase an already matched pair of Angelfish from your local fish store. However, be sure to ask if they’ve successfully bred and how old they are. You don’t want to pay a lot of money for an already matched pair that’s unsuccessful or near infertility around three years of age.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Freshwater Angelfish are a popular aquarium fish noted for their beautiful shape and colors, so many owners have interest in breeding them. Unlike other fish, Angelfish prefer to choose their own mates. In order to breed them you must first obtain a sizeable group of Angelfish, establish if any of the Angelfish have paired up, and then remove your pair and place them in a tank suitable for breeding. With proper care and attention your Angelfish will then lay and fertilize eggs.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Spawning Tank Setup\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Use a 20+ gallon tank.\", \"描述\": \"Before you begin breeding, you must set up the spawning tank of 20 gallons or larger. Set it up at least 3 months in advance to make sure the conditions are ideal. A 20 to 30 gallon tank is best because Angelfish need a tall and fairly wide tank to accommodate their large size.\\nIf an Angelfish feels cramped, they will not feel secure and will not spawn.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Use a sponge filter.\", \"描述\": \"Angelfish require clean water that’s not high in nitrites or ammonia for successful breeding. Using one or two sponge filters can rid the water of these.\\nThe sponge filter also doesn’t trap fry, the fledgling fish, like some other filters.\\nClean the sponge filter every couple of weeks to keep the tank water in the best condition.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Make sure the pH is between 6.5 and 7.\", \"描述\": \"Though very adaptable, most Angelfish do best in soft water that’s slightly acidic to neutral with a pH of about 6.5 to 7.\\nIf your water is too hard, use a de-ionization filter. If your water is too alkaline, use a reverse osmosis filter. Either of these filters can be obtained at an aquarium supply store.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Place a heater on each end of the tank.\", \"描述\": \"Put an aquarium heater at each end of the tank to ensure the correct temperature. Set the heat to 78 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit (25 to 29 degrees Celsius) for optimal breeding conditions.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Place plants and driftwood in the tank.\", \"描述\": \"Make sure to include several plants and some driftwood in the tank, so the Angelfish will have places to hide and feel secure.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Insert a spawning slate or flower pot into the tank at an angle.\", \"描述\": \"Angelfish prefer a spawning slate or terracotta flower pot on which to lay their eggs. Place the slate at a 30 degree angle against the tank wall for optimal results.\\nPlace several spawning slates around the tank to give your Angelfish options.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Create a dim environment.\", \"描述\": \"Angelfish will feel more secure in a dim environment, so arrange for natural light and make the tank darker by painting the outside bottom of the tank a black matte. This cuts down on reflection, which will make the Angelfish feel more secure.\\nInstead of overhead lights in the room, use plant lights.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Pairing Angelfish\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Set up a 55 gallon aquarium.\", \"描述\": \"In order to prepare for establishing a mating pair of Angelfish, get a 55 gallon or larger sized aquarium. An aquarium of this size will allow the Angelfish enough space to comfortably live.\\nUse a filter to keep the tank clean.\\nMake sure the water temperature stays between 78 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit (25 to 29 degrees Celsius) with a water heater.\\nKeep the pH level between 6.5 and 7.\\nLine the bottom of the tank with sand and add large water plants. Also include driftwood for the fish.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Obtain 6 to 12 juvenile Angelfish of good breeding quality.\", \"描述\": \"Since Angelfish prefer to choose their own mate, you’ll have the most successful breeding experience if you obtain 6 to 12 juvenile Angelfish and let them choose their own mates. Choose fish that have good shape, finnage, and color to produce the best results for reproduction.\\nBecause it’s near impossible to tell the sex of Angelfish, you can’t know what sexes you’re getting. If you get somewhere between 6 to 12 Angelfish, chances are you’ll have enough of each sex for the Angelfish to find a mate they prefer.\\nWhen choosing a quality Angelfish, look for a body that’s round and taller than it is wide. Because Angelfish fins are the hallmark of the species, the best fins are straight and free of curves or blemishes. Coloration of the Angelfish is difficult to assess since it’s often based on environment or stress levels. However, be aware of a lack of color or dullness.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Watch for pairing from 6 to 12 months of age.\", \"描述\": \"When your Angelfish is 6 to 12 months old they’ll reach sexual maturity, and you should begin looking for signs of them pairing off. You can tell that two Angelfish have paired by observing your fish and seeing which ones are staying close together and displaying territorial behavior.\\nPairs of Angelfish will often claim a section of the tank as their own and chase off others who come near.\\nIf you think you’ve identified a pair, watch them for 1 or 2 days until you’re certain.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Remove the pair to the spawning tank.\", \"描述\": \"Once you’ve identified your pair, remove them to the spawning tank, as they’ll spawn more successfully when isolated. This ensures that they do not spawn in the larger tank with the other fish, who might eat the eggs or fry.\\nBecause the spawning tank will have similar conditions to the 55 gallon tank you can transition the Angelfish quickly. Place the Angelfish in a bag of water from the 55 gallon tank, and put this bag in the spawning tank for an hour. Then you can open the bag and allow the fish to swim out.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Breeding Pair Care\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Feed the Angelfish heavily.\", \"描述\": \"Once you’ve relocated your paired Angelfish to the spawning tank, begin feeding them more heavily than you had before. Try feeding them about three to four times a day. An increase in food consumption induces breeding in Angelfish.\\nFeed Angelfish bloodworms, frozen brine shrimp, white worms, or a beef heart mixture.\\nRemove any uneaten food after 3 to 5 minutes to help keep the water clean.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Change the tank water frequently.\", \"描述\": \"Angelfish require clean water to breed successfully, and because of the increased feedings, the tank water will need more frequent replacing. Change out at least 30% of the water once a week.\\nIt’s even better to change out out 30% of the water daily.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Look for signs of reproductive readiness.\", \"描述\": \"Usually within 5 to 8 days of being placed in the spawning tank, your Angelfish will be ready to breed. The female Angelfish’s belly will swell and a papilla, an organ between the ventral and anal fin, will appear on both the male and the female.\\nThe female’s papilla is larger than the male’s, which is how you can tell the sexes of Angelfish apart.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Make sure the eggs get air circulation.\", \"描述\": \"Because the Angelfish are captive, they might not retain all of their wild parenting instincts. After the eggs are laid and the male fertilizes them, you need to watch to see if the Angelfish fan the eggs with their fins. If not, this means the eggs aren’t getting the air circulation they need. You should turn the spawning slate upside down to increase a good flow of water.\\nIf using a flower pot, you can remove the eggs entirely from the tank and place them in another tank with the same pH and water temperature as the spawning tank.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Be patient.\", \"描述\": \"It may take the Angelfish a few tries at breeding to be successful. Sometimes Angelfish will eat their eggs or sometimes the eggs don’t hatch. Angelfish breed as often as every 7 to 10 days, so be patient and let them try again.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Raising the Fry\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Wait for the fry to hatch and free-swim.\", \"描述\": \"About 3 to 4 days after the eggs were laid they’ll hatch and wiggle, still attached to the slate. After an additional five days, the fry will detach from the slate and begin free-swimming.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Feed the fry.\", \"描述\": \"After you notice the fry free-swimming in a cloud, it’s time to begin feeding them up to six times a day. Feed them with newly hatched brine shrimp or micro-worms.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Remove the parents after several days.\", \"描述\": \"After one or two days of feeding the fry, remove the parent Angelfish from the spawning aquarium, and reintroduce them to your 55 gallon tank with the rest of your Angelfish.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Increase feeding after two weeks.\", \"描述\": \"Around two weeks of age, the fry will begin taking on the shape of an Angelfish. At this point they’ll begin needing more food and you can feed them as you feed your adult Angelfish.\\nFeed them twice a day only what they can eat in three minutes.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"If your paired Angelfish aren’t breeding together in their spawning tank, you can always raise the water temperature a few degrees, change out 75% of the water in the tank, or put in a few extra plants.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"If you think you’ve purchased one male and one female Angelfish, they won’t necessarily take to breeding with each other. It’s always best to let the Angelfish decide on their breeding partner.\\n\", \"You can purchase an already matched pair of Angelfish from your local fish store. However, be sure to ask if they’ve successfully bred and how old they are. You don’t want to pay a lot of money for an already matched pair that’s unsuccessful or near infertility around three years of age.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
6,922 |
How to Breed Frogs
|
1. Hatching Tadpoles for Education at Home or School
1-1. Research the regulations for collecting and raising wild frogs in your area.
Contact your local conservation department to ensure that you do this project safely and get any necessary permits.
In Australia, for example, you will need to get a free permit in order to collect tadpoles for genuine educational reasons.
Don’t trespass in order to collect eggs or tadpoles.
Never collect eggs, tadpoles, or adults belonging to endangered species. Many kinds of frogs are threatened around the world. Find out which species of endangered frog lives in your area, and learn how to identify their eggs and tadpoles in order to avoid collecting them.
1-2. Collect eggs and larvae, also known as tadpoles.
Visit a pond, small lake, or creek to find eggs or tadpoles in the spring to early summer. Use small jars or nets to capture the eggs or tadpoles. Measure the temperature of the water, and use insulated carrying cases to maintain that temperature in the jars you used to transport the eggs or tadpoles.
Frogs lay small eggs in clusters or strands, usually under water and attached to vegetation. Tadpoles resemble small, dark fish with large heads.
Your area may limit the number of eggs, tadpoles, or frogs you can collect, and it may require you to have a permit.
Keep track of where you collected the eggs or tadpoles to facilitate return later on.
1-3. Set up a frog-friendly habitat using an aquarium, fish bowl, or large glass jar.
A shallow bowl with a large rock in the middle works well; you don’t need deep water. Use water from your collection site, and add to it using only de-chlorinated water, providing about half a gallon per tadpole. Never use straight tap water.
Aerate the water using an appropriate aeration device.
If you have collected eggs, add them directly to the tadpole container – don’t keep them in a smaller container at first.
1-4. Feed the tadpoles.
The natural food for tadpoles is algae and tiny plant matter. If you can’t obtain algae, you can replicate this at home or school by grinding up commercial goldfish food and by boiling and cooling lettuce or spinach (not cabbage).
Feed tadpoles twice daily, removing any uneaten food within an hour to keep the water clean.
Supplement this diet twice a week with flakes of hard-boiled egg yolks to add protein.
1-5. Change the habitat to accommodate the baby frogs.
Tiny frogs need to be able to climb out of the water immediately to avoid drowning. Once tadpoles start to develop hind legs, provide a gently sloping area such as a small pile of rocks or natural (not treated) wood.
1-6. Feed the baby frogs.
Frogs eat insects and small crustaceans. You can feed your baby frogs on meal worms or aphids (which can be found on infested houseplants).
1-7. Release the frogs to their natural habitat as soon as possible.
Use the notes you made earlier about where you collected the eggs or tadpoles. Release the frogs early enough that they will have time to hibernate for the winter. Early fall is the latest you should release your frogs.
Never transport frogs and release them in a new location. You risk introducing non-native species, diseases, or parasites.
2. Breeding Pet Frogs in Captivity
2-1. Make sure you have male and female frogs.
Depending the species, you can tell the sex of adult frogs in various ways. Ideally, you should have a group of frogs that contains more males than females.
Male red-eyed tree frogs are larger than females, and only the males vocalize.
By contrast, female tiger-leg monkey frogs are larger than the males.
2-2. Manipulate your frogs’ environment to induce readiness for breeding.
In the wild, frogs breed seasonally, to give tadpoles and baby frogs the summer to grow and develop. You will need to use light and temperature manipulation to simulate seasonal changes to your frogs.
When breeding red-eyed tree frogs, cut down on the frequency of misting the terrarium. Lower the temperature by about five degrees Fahrenheit. Your frogs may need to eat less during this time, but monitor their health. After a month, return the temperatures to normal, mist heavily, and feed plenty of food.
2-3. Place frogs ready to breed together in an optimal environment.
Learn how to recognize the signs of breeding readiness in your species of frog. You will need to design an environment that mimics the situation in which frogs breed in the wild.
Female red-eyed tree frogs will swell with eggs, and males will begin to vocalize frequently. They will need to be moved into a “rain chamber” designed to mimic a rainy forest setting. An overhead hose should provide falling water, and there must be large leaves for depositing eggs.
2-4. Return the adult frogs to their usual home once their eggs have been laid.
Allow eggs to develop into tadpoles, making sure that newly hatched tadpoles can immediately enter warm water.
Red-eyed tree frog tadpoles require a water temperature of about 75 degrees Fahrenheit.
2-5. Feed tadpoles with finely-ground fish food.
Maintain water quality by changing occasionally, using an aerator, and not allowing old food to linger in the water.
Make sure that tadpoles have a way to climb out to air when they become baby frogs.
Cover the terrarium with a screen to prevent tadpoles from climbing out.
2-6. Feed baby frogs on insects such as wingless fruit flies and small crickets.
Keep baby frogs moist. Baby frogs may die if they become dried out.
Maintain adequate temperatures and simulate day and night using a light source.
2-7. Prevent in-breeding by not allowing siblings to breed with one another.
Do not continually breed from the same small population of frogs. This decreases genetic variation and may lead to the development of inherited diseases.
3. Farming Frogs
3-1. Have realistic expectations.
Frog farming for human consumption is not economically profitable in the United States right now. Most frog legs come from Bangladesh, Belgium, China, Indonesia, Japan, Mexico, and Taiwan. They are often harvest wild there due to the difficulty of intensive frog farming.
Be wary of “get rich quick” schemes based on farming frogs for human consumption. Focus instead on producing frog legs for personal or small-scale enjoyment.
3-2. Follow any local laws and regulations.
You may need to purchase a wildlife breeder’s permit in order to raise frogs. Be sure that your frog farm does not violate local zoning laws or disturb protected species or wetlands.
3-3. Choose the appropriate species for your purposes.
Edible frogs include the green frog (Rana clamitans), the leopard frog (Rana pipiens), the pickerel frog (Rana palustris), and the bullfrog (Rana catesbeiana). The bullfrog is the one most often farmed for food in North America.
3-4. Set up your breeding area.
Many frog farms are natural marshes or ponds that have been modified to limit predators, retain frogs, and allow for easy supplementation of food and capture. Set up a fence to protect the area.
An adult bullfrog needs about twenty feed of shoreline for its feeding territory. Increase the available shoreline by building inlets, coves, and islands.
Ensure that the water is deep enough to protect the frogs and tadpoles from extreme temperatures. In areas with cold winters, six to twelve feet may be required to allow for hibernation in the bottom mud.
3-5. Feed tadpoles on boiled potatoes, vegetables, and meat scraps.
Don’t feed them the remains of butchered frogs, because this might transmit disease.
3-6. Feed frogs on live insects and small crustaceans.
Paying for a supply of live minnows, crayfish, and insects to feed your frogs will be one of the most expensive aspects of a frog-farming operation. However, frogs generally refuse to eat food that is not moving.
Use a strong night-time light at outdoor farms to attract flying insects.
3-7. Prevent and treat diseases.
Many diseases arise from over-crowding; be sure to allow plenty of room for your frogs. If you see evidence of disease, isolate affected individuals and treat them with antibiotics.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:58:35",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Hatching Tadpoles for Education at Home or School\\n1-1. Research the regulations for collecting and raising wild frogs in your area.\\nContact your local conservation department to ensure that you do this project safely and get any necessary permits.\\nIn Australia, for example, you will need to get a free permit in order to collect tadpoles for genuine educational reasons.\\nDon’t trespass in order to collect eggs or tadpoles.\\nNever collect eggs, tadpoles, or adults belonging to endangered species. Many kinds of frogs are threatened around the world. Find out which species of endangered frog lives in your area, and learn how to identify their eggs and tadpoles in order to avoid collecting them.\\n1-2. Collect eggs and larvae, also known as tadpoles.\\nVisit a pond, small lake, or creek to find eggs or tadpoles in the spring to early summer. Use small jars or nets to capture the eggs or tadpoles. Measure the temperature of the water, and use insulated carrying cases to maintain that temperature in the jars you used to transport the eggs or tadpoles.\\nFrogs lay small eggs in clusters or strands, usually under water and attached to vegetation. Tadpoles resemble small, dark fish with large heads.\\nYour area may limit the number of eggs, tadpoles, or frogs you can collect, and it may require you to have a permit.\\nKeep track of where you collected the eggs or tadpoles to facilitate return later on.\\n1-3. Set up a frog-friendly habitat using an aquarium, fish bowl, or large glass jar.\\nA shallow bowl with a large rock in the middle works well; you don’t need deep water. Use water from your collection site, and add to it using only de-chlorinated water, providing about half a gallon per tadpole. Never use straight tap water. \\nAerate the water using an appropriate aeration device. \\nIf you have collected eggs, add them directly to the tadpole container – don’t keep them in a smaller container at first.\\n1-4. Feed the tadpoles.\\nThe natural food for tadpoles is algae and tiny plant matter. If you can’t obtain algae, you can replicate this at home or school by grinding up commercial goldfish food and by boiling and cooling lettuce or spinach (not cabbage). \\nFeed tadpoles twice daily, removing any uneaten food within an hour to keep the water clean.\\nSupplement this diet twice a week with flakes of hard-boiled egg yolks to add protein.\\n1-5. Change the habitat to accommodate the baby frogs.\\nTiny frogs need to be able to climb out of the water immediately to avoid drowning. Once tadpoles start to develop hind legs, provide a gently sloping area such as a small pile of rocks or natural (not treated) wood.\\n1-6. Feed the baby frogs.\\nFrogs eat insects and small crustaceans. You can feed your baby frogs on meal worms or aphids (which can be found on infested houseplants).\\n1-7. Release the frogs to their natural habitat as soon as possible.\\nUse the notes you made earlier about where you collected the eggs or tadpoles. Release the frogs early enough that they will have time to hibernate for the winter. Early fall is the latest you should release your frogs.\\nNever transport frogs and release them in a new location. You risk introducing non-native species, diseases, or parasites.\\n2. Breeding Pet Frogs in Captivity\\n2-1. Make sure you have male and female frogs.\\nDepending the species, you can tell the sex of adult frogs in various ways. Ideally, you should have a group of frogs that contains more males than females.\\nMale red-eyed tree frogs are larger than females, and only the males vocalize.\\nBy contrast, female tiger-leg monkey frogs are larger than the males.\\n2-2. Manipulate your frogs’ environment to induce readiness for breeding.\\nIn the wild, frogs breed seasonally, to give tadpoles and baby frogs the summer to grow and develop. You will need to use light and temperature manipulation to simulate seasonal changes to your frogs.\\nWhen breeding red-eyed tree frogs, cut down on the frequency of misting the terrarium. Lower the temperature by about five degrees Fahrenheit. Your frogs may need to eat less during this time, but monitor their health. After a month, return the temperatures to normal, mist heavily, and feed plenty of food.\\n2-3. Place frogs ready to breed together in an optimal environment.\\nLearn how to recognize the signs of breeding readiness in your species of frog. You will need to design an environment that mimics the situation in which frogs breed in the wild.\\nFemale red-eyed tree frogs will swell with eggs, and males will begin to vocalize frequently. They will need to be moved into a “rain chamber” designed to mimic a rainy forest setting. An overhead hose should provide falling water, and there must be large leaves for depositing eggs.\\n2-4. Return the adult frogs to their usual home once their eggs have been laid.\\nAllow eggs to develop into tadpoles, making sure that newly hatched tadpoles can immediately enter warm water.\\nRed-eyed tree frog tadpoles require a water temperature of about 75 degrees Fahrenheit.\\n2-5. Feed tadpoles with finely-ground fish food.\\nMaintain water quality by changing occasionally, using an aerator, and not allowing old food to linger in the water.\\nMake sure that tadpoles have a way to climb out to air when they become baby frogs.\\nCover the terrarium with a screen to prevent tadpoles from climbing out.\\n2-6. Feed baby frogs on insects such as wingless fruit flies and small crickets.\\nKeep baby frogs moist. Baby frogs may die if they become dried out. \\nMaintain adequate temperatures and simulate day and night using a light source.\\n2-7. Prevent in-breeding by not allowing siblings to breed with one another.\\nDo not continually breed from the same small population of frogs. This decreases genetic variation and may lead to the development of inherited diseases.\\n3. Farming Frogs\\n3-1. Have realistic expectations.\\nFrog farming for human consumption is not economically profitable in the United States right now. Most frog legs come from Bangladesh, Belgium, China, Indonesia, Japan, Mexico, and Taiwan. They are often harvest wild there due to the difficulty of intensive frog farming.\\nBe wary of “get rich quick” schemes based on farming frogs for human consumption. Focus instead on producing frog legs for personal or small-scale enjoyment.\\n3-2. Follow any local laws and regulations.\\nYou may need to purchase a wildlife breeder’s permit in order to raise frogs. Be sure that your frog farm does not violate local zoning laws or disturb protected species or wetlands.\\n3-3. Choose the appropriate species for your purposes.\\nEdible frogs include the green frog (Rana clamitans), the leopard frog (Rana pipiens), the pickerel frog (Rana palustris), and the bullfrog (Rana catesbeiana). The bullfrog is the one most often farmed for food in North America.\\n3-4. Set up your breeding area.\\nMany frog farms are natural marshes or ponds that have been modified to limit predators, retain frogs, and allow for easy supplementation of food and capture. Set up a fence to protect the area.\\nAn adult bullfrog needs about twenty feed of shoreline for its feeding territory. Increase the available shoreline by building inlets, coves, and islands.\\nEnsure that the water is deep enough to protect the frogs and tadpoles from extreme temperatures. In areas with cold winters, six to twelve feet may be required to allow for hibernation in the bottom mud.\\n3-5. Feed tadpoles on boiled potatoes, vegetables, and meat scraps.\\nDon’t feed them the remains of butchered frogs, because this might transmit disease.\\n3-6. Feed frogs on live insects and small crustaceans.\\nPaying for a supply of live minnows, crayfish, and insects to feed your frogs will be one of the most expensive aspects of a frog-farming operation. However, frogs generally refuse to eat food that is not moving.\\nUse a strong night-time light at outdoor farms to attract flying insects.\\n3-7. Prevent and treat diseases.\\nMany diseases arise from over-crowding; be sure to allow plenty of room for your frogs. If you see evidence of disease, isolate affected individuals and treat them with antibiotics.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"People breed frogs for many different reasons. Hatching tadpoles is a classic way to demonstrate the amphibian life-cycle to students or young people whether in the science classroom or at home. Frog enthusiasts may want to breed rarer species of frogs in captivity. Finally, frogs can be raised for human consumption, though this is not yet commercially viable in many places.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Hatching Tadpoles for Education at Home or School\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Research the regulations for collecting and raising wild frogs in your area.\", \"描述\": \"Contact your local conservation department to ensure that you do this project safely and get any necessary permits.\\nIn Australia, for example, you will need to get a free permit in order to collect tadpoles for genuine educational reasons.\\nDon’t trespass in order to collect eggs or tadpoles.\\nNever collect eggs, tadpoles, or adults belonging to endangered species. Many kinds of frogs are threatened around the world. Find out which species of endangered frog lives in your area, and learn how to identify their eggs and tadpoles in order to avoid collecting them.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Collect eggs and larvae, also known as tadpoles.\", \"描述\": \"Visit a pond, small lake, or creek to find eggs or tadpoles in the spring to early summer. Use small jars or nets to capture the eggs or tadpoles. Measure the temperature of the water, and use insulated carrying cases to maintain that temperature in the jars you used to transport the eggs or tadpoles.\\nFrogs lay small eggs in clusters or strands, usually under water and attached to vegetation. Tadpoles resemble small, dark fish with large heads.\\nYour area may limit the number of eggs, tadpoles, or frogs you can collect, and it may require you to have a permit.\\nKeep track of where you collected the eggs or tadpoles to facilitate return later on.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Set up a frog-friendly habitat using an aquarium, fish bowl, or large glass jar.\", \"描述\": \"A shallow bowl with a large rock in the middle works well; you don’t need deep water. Use water from your collection site, and add to it using only de-chlorinated water, providing about half a gallon per tadpole. Never use straight tap water. \\nAerate the water using an appropriate aeration device. \\nIf you have collected eggs, add them directly to the tadpole container – don’t keep them in a smaller container at first.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Feed the tadpoles.\", \"描述\": \"The natural food for tadpoles is algae and tiny plant matter. If you can’t obtain algae, you can replicate this at home or school by grinding up commercial goldfish food and by boiling and cooling lettuce or spinach (not cabbage). \\nFeed tadpoles twice daily, removing any uneaten food within an hour to keep the water clean.\\nSupplement this diet twice a week with flakes of hard-boiled egg yolks to add protein.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Change the habitat to accommodate the baby frogs.\", \"描述\": \"Tiny frogs need to be able to climb out of the water immediately to avoid drowning. Once tadpoles start to develop hind legs, provide a gently sloping area such as a small pile of rocks or natural (not treated) wood.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Feed the baby frogs.\", \"描述\": \"Frogs eat insects and small crustaceans. You can feed your baby frogs on meal worms or aphids (which can be found on infested houseplants).\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Release the frogs to their natural habitat as soon as possible.\", \"描述\": \"Use the notes you made earlier about where you collected the eggs or tadpoles. Release the frogs early enough that they will have time to hibernate for the winter. Early fall is the latest you should release your frogs.\\nNever transport frogs and release them in a new location. You risk introducing non-native species, diseases, or parasites.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Breeding Pet Frogs in Captivity\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Make sure you have male and female frogs.\", \"描述\": \"Depending the species, you can tell the sex of adult frogs in various ways. Ideally, you should have a group of frogs that contains more males than females.\\nMale red-eyed tree frogs are larger than females, and only the males vocalize.\\nBy contrast, female tiger-leg monkey frogs are larger than the males.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Manipulate your frogs’ environment to induce readiness for breeding.\", \"描述\": \"In the wild, frogs breed seasonally, to give tadpoles and baby frogs the summer to grow and develop. You will need to use light and temperature manipulation to simulate seasonal changes to your frogs.\\nWhen breeding red-eyed tree frogs, cut down on the frequency of misting the terrarium. Lower the temperature by about five degrees Fahrenheit. Your frogs may need to eat less during this time, but monitor their health. After a month, return the temperatures to normal, mist heavily, and feed plenty of food.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Place frogs ready to breed together in an optimal environment.\", \"描述\": \"Learn how to recognize the signs of breeding readiness in your species of frog. You will need to design an environment that mimics the situation in which frogs breed in the wild.\\nFemale red-eyed tree frogs will swell with eggs, and males will begin to vocalize frequently. They will need to be moved into a “rain chamber” designed to mimic a rainy forest setting. An overhead hose should provide falling water, and there must be large leaves for depositing eggs.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Return the adult frogs to their usual home once their eggs have been laid.\", \"描述\": \"Allow eggs to develop into tadpoles, making sure that newly hatched tadpoles can immediately enter warm water.\\nRed-eyed tree frog tadpoles require a water temperature of about 75 degrees Fahrenheit.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Feed tadpoles with finely-ground fish food.\", \"描述\": \"Maintain water quality by changing occasionally, using an aerator, and not allowing old food to linger in the water.\\nMake sure that tadpoles have a way to climb out to air when they become baby frogs.\\nCover the terrarium with a screen to prevent tadpoles from climbing out.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Feed baby frogs on insects such as wingless fruit flies and small crickets.\", \"描述\": \"Keep baby frogs moist. Baby frogs may die if they become dried out. \\nMaintain adequate temperatures and simulate day and night using a light source.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Prevent in-breeding by not allowing siblings to breed with one another.\", \"描述\": \"Do not continually breed from the same small population of frogs. This decreases genetic variation and may lead to the development of inherited diseases.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Farming Frogs\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Have realistic expectations.\", \"描述\": \"Frog farming for human consumption is not economically profitable in the United States right now. Most frog legs come from Bangladesh, Belgium, China, Indonesia, Japan, Mexico, and Taiwan. They are often harvest wild there due to the difficulty of intensive frog farming.\\nBe wary of “get rich quick” schemes based on farming frogs for human consumption. Focus instead on producing frog legs for personal or small-scale enjoyment.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Follow any local laws and regulations.\", \"描述\": \"You may need to purchase a wildlife breeder’s permit in order to raise frogs. Be sure that your frog farm does not violate local zoning laws or disturb protected species or wetlands.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Choose the appropriate species for your purposes.\", \"描述\": \"Edible frogs include the green frog (Rana clamitans), the leopard frog (Rana pipiens), the pickerel frog (Rana palustris), and the bullfrog (Rana catesbeiana). The bullfrog is the one most often farmed for food in North America.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Set up your breeding area.\", \"描述\": \"Many frog farms are natural marshes or ponds that have been modified to limit predators, retain frogs, and allow for easy supplementation of food and capture. Set up a fence to protect the area.\\nAn adult bullfrog needs about twenty feed of shoreline for its feeding territory. Increase the available shoreline by building inlets, coves, and islands.\\nEnsure that the water is deep enough to protect the frogs and tadpoles from extreme temperatures. In areas with cold winters, six to twelve feet may be required to allow for hibernation in the bottom mud.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Feed tadpoles on boiled potatoes, vegetables, and meat scraps.\", \"描述\": \"Don’t feed them the remains of butchered frogs, because this might transmit disease.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Feed frogs on live insects and small crustaceans.\", \"描述\": \"Paying for a supply of live minnows, crayfish, and insects to feed your frogs will be one of the most expensive aspects of a frog-farming operation. However, frogs generally refuse to eat food that is not moving.\\nUse a strong night-time light at outdoor farms to attract flying insects.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Prevent and treat diseases.\", \"描述\": \"Many diseases arise from over-crowding; be sure to allow plenty of room for your frogs. If you see evidence of disease, isolate affected individuals and treat them with antibiotics.\"}]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
6,923 |
How to Breed Geese
|
1. Choosing the Right Geese
1-1. Consider Toulouse or Emden geese if you want larger birds.
Larger breeds of geese, like the Toulouse and Emden, weigh anywhere from 9–10 kilograms (20–22 lb) and can lay anywhere from 35-40 eggs per season. These geese are larger and are typically desired for their meat. If you have a lot of roaming space or a large enclosure and want larger birds, consider breeding these geese.
Toulouse geese have a large head with a small bill and large bodies with a prominent chest bone. They are typically different shades of gray with white edging around their feathers.
Emden geese have all white feathers with broad, round bodies. Their eyes are light blue and their necks are long and swan-like.
1-2. Get Chinese geese if you want smaller geese but more eggs.
Smaller varieties like the Chinese geese are only 5.5–6 kilograms (12–13 lb) but can lay up to 50 eggs per season. Get these geese if you want to sell the eggs rather than the meat of the geese.
Chinese geese come in both brown and white variations. They are much smaller than European breeds of geese and have a knot, or protuberance, coming out from the base of their upper bill.
1-3. Consider Sebastopol geese if you want visually striking birds.
Sebastopol geese have long, white curled feathers and a distinct color pattern on their face. Sebastopol geese are slightly smaller than Chinese geese and weigh anywhere from 5–5.5 kilograms (11–12 lb) and only lay 25-30 eggs per year. If you’re looking for a fancier type of geese, breed this bird.
1-4. Purchase strong, healthy geese for breeding.
Search online for local geese breeders near you. It’s always best to purchase your geese in person because you can inspect them and ensure that they are healthy. A healthy goose will not be overweight or emaciated and will look vigorous and lively. They should have smooth feathers, strong legs, and no apparent physical damage or deformities.
If you can’t visit a breeder yourself, or there are none near you, you could purchase your geese online. Make sure to read the customer reviews of the farm before you buy your geese.
1-5. Wait until the geese are at least 1 year old.
While some breeders wait until the gaggle is 2 years of age, you can actually breed your geese when they are as young as 1. Before they reach maturity, they won’t be able to produce eggs.
Female geese can be kept until they are 10 years old, while male geese should be culled when they reach the age of 6.
1-6. Have 1 gander for every 3-5 geese.
The term for a male goose is a gander. Larger ganders, like the Toulouse and Emden, will typically only take on 1-3 mates in their lifetime while smaller variations like Chinese geese will take up to 5 mates. To improve your chances of breeding, make sure to get more female geese than male geese.
Occasionally, geese will be hard to breed because they may latch onto one mate and will be unwilling to mate with the other female geese.
2. Setting up the Geese’s Habitat
2-1. Provide every 4 geese with an 14 ft × 20 ft (4.3 m × 6.1 m) enclosure.
The enclosure should be an area that’s covered and safe from predators, such as a garden shed. This enclosed space is where your geese will sleep at night. If you are housing more geese, make sure to increase the size of the enclosure accordingly.
Herd the geese into the shed at night to keep them safe from predators like weasels and foxes.
During the day, the geese should be kept in the outdoor space.
2-2. Supply 30–40 sq ft (2.8–3.7 m) of fenced outdoor space for each goose.
On top of the indoor enclosure, you’ll need a place for your geese to roam around outside. Provide 30–40 square feet (2.8–3.7 m) of outdoor roaming space per goose. The fence should be at least 6.5–7 feet (2.0–2.1 m) high so that your geese can’t escape. This will also prevent predators from getting into your geese’s habitat and eating them.
Since geese eat mostly grass, it’s best if the outdoor enclosure is covered in sweet grass that the geese can eat throughout the day.
2-3. Clip the geese's wings if their outdoor space doesn't have a roof.
If you just plan on using fencing along the perimeter of the geese habitat, the geese's wings will need to be clipped so they don't fly away. If you've never done this before, get an expert to help you the first time. To clip the bird's wings, you'll need to cut the 10 primary feathers, which are located on each wing towards the back of the bird.
Chinese geese have limited flight ability so it's not necessary to clip their wings.
Some believe that clipping a bird's wings is unethical. If you agree with this view, you can get an outdoor enclosure that has a roof, such as a wire cage.
Your geese's feathers must be clipped once a year.
Never cut feathers when they are coming in during molting. The feathers are filled with blood and are more like veins when they are first coming in.
If done properly, clipping the wings will not hurt the geese.
2-4. Allow access to adequate swimming water to encourage mating.
While a swimming source isn’t necessary for breeding, it will encourage the geese to breed and will improve your chances of offspring. If the bird’s don’t have access to a freshwater pond, you can provide them a swimming space by filling up a children’s pool or large container with fresh water.
If kept in an enclosed space together, the geese should naturally start to mate once the mating season begins and they are mature.
2-5. Provide one bird nest for every 4-5 geese.
Geese enjoy enclosed spaces to lay their eggs. Find a 50 US gal (6,400 fl oz) or larger plastic tub and cut a hole that’s large enough so that your geese can go into it. Place the tub upside down so that the nest has a roof. Then, fill the bottom of the container with a 3–6 in (7.6–15.2 cm) layer of pine wood shavings or straw. This will provide a place for the geese to lay their eggs.
You can also use a barrel as the bird’s nest. Open the top of the barrel, then lay it down on its side and use wood wedges on both sides of the barrel to keep it in place and prevent it from rolling.
If you’re using a wood barrel, you must also lay down nesting material.
3. Encouraging Mating
3-1. Keep the geese together a month before the breeding season.
The mating season typically happens at the beginning of the winter or spring, depending on the climate and where you live. To improve your chances of eggs and to increase the chance of fertility, acclimate your male and female geese a month before the mating season starts.
You can also start mating season later, but it may result in fewer eggs.
Breeding season in North America usually occurs from February to March, so introduce your geese to each other in January.
In Asia, breeding season occurs from February to June.
In Europe, mating season occurs from May to July.
3-2. Feed your geese a balanced diet.
The healthier your geese are, the more likely they will produce healthy eggs and mate. Geese diets mainly consist of eating grasses, sedges, cabbage leaves, cauliflower, lettuce, and eelgrass, which typically takes up around 70%-80% of their diet. While the geese will forage for bugs and plants, they should be provided with ample wheat or oat grain, once a day to supplement their diet. Clean, fresh water should also be available to the gaggle at all times.
Chop up the lettuce into small pieces before feeding your geese.
Provide each breeding goose with at least 200 grams (7.1 oz) of grain and 100 grams (3.5 oz) of vegetables per day.
Replace old food so that it doesn’t get moldy.
3-3. Remove females from the pen to see if the geese are mating.
Remove one female from the pen and see how the gander reacts. If he doesn’t have any reaction, he's probably not mating with the goose that you removed from the pen. If the gander calls out, shakes its neck around, or looks agitated, it's probably already mated with the goose you removed.
If you have successful mating pairs, the goose will start laying eggs around a month after mating season.
3-4. Use artificial insemination if you want more efficient breeding.
If your geese are not naturally breeding or you want to improve the efficiency of breeding, you can artificially inseminate your geese. To do this, lay the gander on your lap, stimulate its genitalia, and collect its sperm in a cup. Then, inseminate the female bird by injecting the semen into the bird’s oviduct with a syringe.
If you don't have experience with artificial insemination, you should get someone experienced to help you the first time.
Geese should be inseminated twice per week with 0.3 millilitres (0.010 fl oz) of semen.
The geese will start laying eggs 3-5 days after insemination.
3-5. Collect the goose eggs twice a day.
Geese will typically start laying their eggs a month after the mating season begins and will continue laying eggs until the end of the mating season. Eggs should be collected at 6 a.m. - 9 a.m., then once more in the afternoon or evening. You should then start to incubate the eggs so that they hatch new baby geese.
You can also cook and eat unfertilized goose eggs.
The type of geese that you’re breeding will dictate how many eggs they will lay per season on average.
Geese will start laying eggs again during the next mating season.
3-6. Take your gander to the vet if your geese aren’t mating.
Sometimes, a goose will be lame, or unable to mate, because it is injured or has an infection. If you notice that your gander looks ill or isn’t mating, take it to a veterinarian to further diagnose the issue. The bird may need surgery or you may need to change something in its enclosure or its diet.
For instance, Staphylococcus is an injury and infection in the foot which prevents your goose from being mobile. An antibiotic must be injected into the bird to remedy it.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:58:35",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Choosing the Right Geese\\n1-1. Consider Toulouse or Emden geese if you want larger birds.\\nLarger breeds of geese, like the Toulouse and Emden, weigh anywhere from 9–10 kilograms (20–22 lb) and can lay anywhere from 35-40 eggs per season. These geese are larger and are typically desired for their meat. If you have a lot of roaming space or a large enclosure and want larger birds, consider breeding these geese.\\nToulouse geese have a large head with a small bill and large bodies with a prominent chest bone. They are typically different shades of gray with white edging around their feathers.\\nEmden geese have all white feathers with broad, round bodies. Their eyes are light blue and their necks are long and swan-like.\\n1-2. Get Chinese geese if you want smaller geese but more eggs.\\nSmaller varieties like the Chinese geese are only 5.5–6 kilograms (12–13 lb) but can lay up to 50 eggs per season. Get these geese if you want to sell the eggs rather than the meat of the geese.\\nChinese geese come in both brown and white variations. They are much smaller than European breeds of geese and have a knot, or protuberance, coming out from the base of their upper bill.\\n1-3. Consider Sebastopol geese if you want visually striking birds.\\nSebastopol geese have long, white curled feathers and a distinct color pattern on their face. Sebastopol geese are slightly smaller than Chinese geese and weigh anywhere from 5–5.5 kilograms (11–12 lb) and only lay 25-30 eggs per year. If you’re looking for a fancier type of geese, breed this bird.\\n1-4. Purchase strong, healthy geese for breeding.\\nSearch online for local geese breeders near you. It’s always best to purchase your geese in person because you can inspect them and ensure that they are healthy. A healthy goose will not be overweight or emaciated and will look vigorous and lively. They should have smooth feathers, strong legs, and no apparent physical damage or deformities.\\nIf you can’t visit a breeder yourself, or there are none near you, you could purchase your geese online. Make sure to read the customer reviews of the farm before you buy your geese.\\n1-5. Wait until the geese are at least 1 year old.\\nWhile some breeders wait until the gaggle is 2 years of age, you can actually breed your geese when they are as young as 1. Before they reach maturity, they won’t be able to produce eggs.\\nFemale geese can be kept until they are 10 years old, while male geese should be culled when they reach the age of 6.\\n1-6. Have 1 gander for every 3-5 geese.\\nThe term for a male goose is a gander. Larger ganders, like the Toulouse and Emden, will typically only take on 1-3 mates in their lifetime while smaller variations like Chinese geese will take up to 5 mates. To improve your chances of breeding, make sure to get more female geese than male geese.\\nOccasionally, geese will be hard to breed because they may latch onto one mate and will be unwilling to mate with the other female geese.\\n2. Setting up the Geese’s Habitat\\n2-1. Provide every 4 geese with an 14 ft × 20 ft (4.3 m × 6.1 m) enclosure.\\nThe enclosure should be an area that’s covered and safe from predators, such as a garden shed. This enclosed space is where your geese will sleep at night. If you are housing more geese, make sure to increase the size of the enclosure accordingly.\\nHerd the geese into the shed at night to keep them safe from predators like weasels and foxes.\\nDuring the day, the geese should be kept in the outdoor space.\\n2-2. Supply 30–40 sq ft (2.8–3.7 m) of fenced outdoor space for each goose.\\nOn top of the indoor enclosure, you’ll need a place for your geese to roam around outside. Provide 30–40 square feet (2.8–3.7 m) of outdoor roaming space per goose. The fence should be at least 6.5–7 feet (2.0–2.1 m) high so that your geese can’t escape. This will also prevent predators from getting into your geese’s habitat and eating them.\\nSince geese eat mostly grass, it’s best if the outdoor enclosure is covered in sweet grass that the geese can eat throughout the day.\\n2-3. Clip the geese's wings if their outdoor space doesn't have a roof.\\nIf you just plan on using fencing along the perimeter of the geese habitat, the geese's wings will need to be clipped so they don't fly away. If you've never done this before, get an expert to help you the first time. To clip the bird's wings, you'll need to cut the 10 primary feathers, which are located on each wing towards the back of the bird.\\nChinese geese have limited flight ability so it's not necessary to clip their wings.\\nSome believe that clipping a bird's wings is unethical. If you agree with this view, you can get an outdoor enclosure that has a roof, such as a wire cage.\\nYour geese's feathers must be clipped once a year.\\nNever cut feathers when they are coming in during molting. The feathers are filled with blood and are more like veins when they are first coming in.\\nIf done properly, clipping the wings will not hurt the geese.\\n2-4. Allow access to adequate swimming water to encourage mating.\\nWhile a swimming source isn’t necessary for breeding, it will encourage the geese to breed and will improve your chances of offspring. If the bird’s don’t have access to a freshwater pond, you can provide them a swimming space by filling up a children’s pool or large container with fresh water.\\nIf kept in an enclosed space together, the geese should naturally start to mate once the mating season begins and they are mature.\\n2-5. Provide one bird nest for every 4-5 geese.\\nGeese enjoy enclosed spaces to lay their eggs. Find a 50 US gal (6,400 fl oz) or larger plastic tub and cut a hole that’s large enough so that your geese can go into it. Place the tub upside down so that the nest has a roof. Then, fill the bottom of the container with a 3–6 in (7.6–15.2 cm) layer of pine wood shavings or straw. This will provide a place for the geese to lay their eggs.\\nYou can also use a barrel as the bird’s nest. Open the top of the barrel, then lay it down on its side and use wood wedges on both sides of the barrel to keep it in place and prevent it from rolling.\\nIf you’re using a wood barrel, you must also lay down nesting material.\\n3. Encouraging Mating\\n3-1. Keep the geese together a month before the breeding season.\\nThe mating season typically happens at the beginning of the winter or spring, depending on the climate and where you live. To improve your chances of eggs and to increase the chance of fertility, acclimate your male and female geese a month before the mating season starts.\\nYou can also start mating season later, but it may result in fewer eggs.\\nBreeding season in North America usually occurs from February to March, so introduce your geese to each other in January.\\nIn Asia, breeding season occurs from February to June.\\nIn Europe, mating season occurs from May to July.\\n3-2. Feed your geese a balanced diet.\\nThe healthier your geese are, the more likely they will produce healthy eggs and mate. Geese diets mainly consist of eating grasses, sedges, cabbage leaves, cauliflower, lettuce, and eelgrass, which typically takes up around 70%-80% of their diet. While the geese will forage for bugs and plants, they should be provided with ample wheat or oat grain, once a day to supplement their diet. Clean, fresh water should also be available to the gaggle at all times.\\nChop up the lettuce into small pieces before feeding your geese.\\nProvide each breeding goose with at least 200 grams (7.1 oz) of grain and 100 grams (3.5 oz) of vegetables per day.\\nReplace old food so that it doesn’t get moldy.\\n3-3. Remove females from the pen to see if the geese are mating.\\nRemove one female from the pen and see how the gander reacts. If he doesn’t have any reaction, he's probably not mating with the goose that you removed from the pen. If the gander calls out, shakes its neck around, or looks agitated, it's probably already mated with the goose you removed.\\nIf you have successful mating pairs, the goose will start laying eggs around a month after mating season.\\n3-4. Use artificial insemination if you want more efficient breeding.\\nIf your geese are not naturally breeding or you want to improve the efficiency of breeding, you can artificially inseminate your geese. To do this, lay the gander on your lap, stimulate its genitalia, and collect its sperm in a cup. Then, inseminate the female bird by injecting the semen into the bird’s oviduct with a syringe.\\nIf you don't have experience with artificial insemination, you should get someone experienced to help you the first time.\\nGeese should be inseminated twice per week with 0.3 millilitres (0.010 fl oz) of semen.\\nThe geese will start laying eggs 3-5 days after insemination.\\n3-5. Collect the goose eggs twice a day.\\nGeese will typically start laying their eggs a month after the mating season begins and will continue laying eggs until the end of the mating season. Eggs should be collected at 6 a.m. - 9 a.m., then once more in the afternoon or evening. You should then start to incubate the eggs so that they hatch new baby geese.\\nYou can also cook and eat unfertilized goose eggs.\\nThe type of geese that you’re breeding will dictate how many eggs they will lay per season on average.\\nGeese will start laying eggs again during the next mating season.\\n3-6. Take your gander to the vet if your geese aren’t mating.\\nSometimes, a goose will be lame, or unable to mate, because it is injured or has an infection. If you notice that your gander looks ill or isn’t mating, take it to a veterinarian to further diagnose the issue. The bird may need surgery or you may need to change something in its enclosure or its diet.\\nFor instance, Staphylococcus is an injury and infection in the foot which prevents your goose from being mobile. An antibiotic must be injected into the bird to remedy it.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Raising and breeding your own geese is a fun and potentially lucrative thing to do. Geese lay large eggs and their meat is widely desired, which make them a great animal to breed. To breed a group, or gaggle, of geese on your own, decide on which kind of geese you want to breed, then purchase a few initial breeding geese. If you create the proper enclosure and care for the geese properly throughout the breeding season, your geese will likely begin to breed in no time.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Choosing the Right Geese\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Consider Toulouse or Emden geese if you want larger birds.\", \"描述\": \"Larger breeds of geese, like the Toulouse and Emden, weigh anywhere from 9–10 kilograms (20–22 lb) and can lay anywhere from 35-40 eggs per season. These geese are larger and are typically desired for their meat. If you have a lot of roaming space or a large enclosure and want larger birds, consider breeding these geese.\\nToulouse geese have a large head with a small bill and large bodies with a prominent chest bone. They are typically different shades of gray with white edging around their feathers.\\nEmden geese have all white feathers with broad, round bodies. Their eyes are light blue and their necks are long and swan-like.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Get Chinese geese if you want smaller geese but more eggs.\", \"描述\": \"Smaller varieties like the Chinese geese are only 5.5–6 kilograms (12–13 lb) but can lay up to 50 eggs per season. Get these geese if you want to sell the eggs rather than the meat of the geese.\\nChinese geese come in both brown and white variations. They are much smaller than European breeds of geese and have a knot, or protuberance, coming out from the base of their upper bill.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Consider Sebastopol geese if you want visually striking birds.\", \"描述\": \"Sebastopol geese have long, white curled feathers and a distinct color pattern on their face. Sebastopol geese are slightly smaller than Chinese geese and weigh anywhere from 5–5.5 kilograms (11–12 lb) and only lay 25-30 eggs per year. If you’re looking for a fancier type of geese, breed this bird.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Purchase strong, healthy geese for breeding.\", \"描述\": \"Search online for local geese breeders near you. It’s always best to purchase your geese in person because you can inspect them and ensure that they are healthy. A healthy goose will not be overweight or emaciated and will look vigorous and lively. They should have smooth feathers, strong legs, and no apparent physical damage or deformities.\\nIf you can’t visit a breeder yourself, or there are none near you, you could purchase your geese online. Make sure to read the customer reviews of the farm before you buy your geese.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Wait until the geese are at least 1 year old.\", \"描述\": \"While some breeders wait until the gaggle is 2 years of age, you can actually breed your geese when they are as young as 1. Before they reach maturity, they won’t be able to produce eggs.\\nFemale geese can be kept until they are 10 years old, while male geese should be culled when they reach the age of 6.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Have 1 gander for every 3-5 geese.\", \"描述\": \"The term for a male goose is a gander. Larger ganders, like the Toulouse and Emden, will typically only take on 1-3 mates in their lifetime while smaller variations like Chinese geese will take up to 5 mates. To improve your chances of breeding, make sure to get more female geese than male geese.\\nOccasionally, geese will be hard to breed because they may latch onto one mate and will be unwilling to mate with the other female geese.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Setting up the Geese’s Habitat\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Provide every 4 geese with an 14 ft × 20 ft (4.3 m × 6.1 m) enclosure.\", \"描述\": \"The enclosure should be an area that’s covered and safe from predators, such as a garden shed. This enclosed space is where your geese will sleep at night. If you are housing more geese, make sure to increase the size of the enclosure accordingly.\\nHerd the geese into the shed at night to keep them safe from predators like weasels and foxes.\\nDuring the day, the geese should be kept in the outdoor space.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Supply 30–40 sq ft (2.8–3.7 m) of fenced outdoor space for each goose.\", \"描述\": \"On top of the indoor enclosure, you’ll need a place for your geese to roam around outside. Provide 30–40 square feet (2.8–3.7 m) of outdoor roaming space per goose. The fence should be at least 6.5–7 feet (2.0–2.1 m) high so that your geese can’t escape. This will also prevent predators from getting into your geese’s habitat and eating them.\\nSince geese eat mostly grass, it’s best if the outdoor enclosure is covered in sweet grass that the geese can eat throughout the day.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Clip the geese's wings if their outdoor space doesn't have a roof.\", \"描述\": \"If you just plan on using fencing along the perimeter of the geese habitat, the geese's wings will need to be clipped so they don't fly away. If you've never done this before, get an expert to help you the first time. To clip the bird's wings, you'll need to cut the 10 primary feathers, which are located on each wing towards the back of the bird.\\nChinese geese have limited flight ability so it's not necessary to clip their wings.\\nSome believe that clipping a bird's wings is unethical. If you agree with this view, you can get an outdoor enclosure that has a roof, such as a wire cage.\\nYour geese's feathers must be clipped once a year.\\nNever cut feathers when they are coming in during molting. The feathers are filled with blood and are more like veins when they are first coming in.\\nIf done properly, clipping the wings will not hurt the geese.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Allow access to adequate swimming water to encourage mating.\", \"描述\": \"While a swimming source isn’t necessary for breeding, it will encourage the geese to breed and will improve your chances of offspring. If the bird’s don’t have access to a freshwater pond, you can provide them a swimming space by filling up a children’s pool or large container with fresh water.\\nIf kept in an enclosed space together, the geese should naturally start to mate once the mating season begins and they are mature.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Provide one bird nest for every 4-5 geese.\", \"描述\": \"Geese enjoy enclosed spaces to lay their eggs. Find a 50 US gal (6,400 fl oz) or larger plastic tub and cut a hole that’s large enough so that your geese can go into it. Place the tub upside down so that the nest has a roof. Then, fill the bottom of the container with a 3–6 in (7.6–15.2 cm) layer of pine wood shavings or straw. This will provide a place for the geese to lay their eggs.\\nYou can also use a barrel as the bird’s nest. Open the top of the barrel, then lay it down on its side and use wood wedges on both sides of the barrel to keep it in place and prevent it from rolling.\\nIf you’re using a wood barrel, you must also lay down nesting material.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Encouraging Mating\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Keep the geese together a month before the breeding season.\", \"描述\": \"The mating season typically happens at the beginning of the winter or spring, depending on the climate and where you live. To improve your chances of eggs and to increase the chance of fertility, acclimate your male and female geese a month before the mating season starts.\\nYou can also start mating season later, but it may result in fewer eggs.\\nBreeding season in North America usually occurs from February to March, so introduce your geese to each other in January.\\nIn Asia, breeding season occurs from February to June.\\nIn Europe, mating season occurs from May to July.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Feed your geese a balanced diet.\", \"描述\": \"The healthier your geese are, the more likely they will produce healthy eggs and mate. Geese diets mainly consist of eating grasses, sedges, cabbage leaves, cauliflower, lettuce, and eelgrass, which typically takes up around 70%-80% of their diet. While the geese will forage for bugs and plants, they should be provided with ample wheat or oat grain, once a day to supplement their diet. Clean, fresh water should also be available to the gaggle at all times.\\nChop up the lettuce into small pieces before feeding your geese.\\nProvide each breeding goose with at least 200 grams (7.1 oz) of grain and 100 grams (3.5 oz) of vegetables per day.\\nReplace old food so that it doesn’t get moldy.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Remove females from the pen to see if the geese are mating.\", \"描述\": \"Remove one female from the pen and see how the gander reacts. If he doesn’t have any reaction, he's probably not mating with the goose that you removed from the pen. If the gander calls out, shakes its neck around, or looks agitated, it's probably already mated with the goose you removed.\\nIf you have successful mating pairs, the goose will start laying eggs around a month after mating season.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Use artificial insemination if you want more efficient breeding.\", \"描述\": \"If your geese are not naturally breeding or you want to improve the efficiency of breeding, you can artificially inseminate your geese. To do this, lay the gander on your lap, stimulate its genitalia, and collect its sperm in a cup. Then, inseminate the female bird by injecting the semen into the bird’s oviduct with a syringe.\\nIf you don't have experience with artificial insemination, you should get someone experienced to help you the first time.\\nGeese should be inseminated twice per week with 0.3 millilitres (0.010 fl oz) of semen.\\nThe geese will start laying eggs 3-5 days after insemination.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Collect the goose eggs twice a day.\", \"描述\": \"Geese will typically start laying their eggs a month after the mating season begins and will continue laying eggs until the end of the mating season. Eggs should be collected at 6 a.m. - 9 a.m., then once more in the afternoon or evening. You should then start to incubate the eggs so that they hatch new baby geese.\\nYou can also cook and eat unfertilized goose eggs.\\nThe type of geese that you’re breeding will dictate how many eggs they will lay per season on average.\\nGeese will start laying eggs again during the next mating season.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Take your gander to the vet if your geese aren’t mating.\", \"描述\": \"Sometimes, a goose will be lame, or unable to mate, because it is injured or has an infection. If you notice that your gander looks ill or isn’t mating, take it to a veterinarian to further diagnose the issue. The bird may need surgery or you may need to change something in its enclosure or its diet.\\nFor instance, Staphylococcus is an injury and infection in the foot which prevents your goose from being mobile. An antibiotic must be injected into the bird to remedy it.\"}]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
6,924 |
How to Breed Gerbils
|
1. Introducing and Mating the Gerbils
1-1. Choose healthy gerbils over the age of 6 months.
Pick a male and female gerbil that are the most docile and easy to handle. Make sure they don’t have any illnesses or deformities since these traits may get passed down to the litter.
Even though gerbils can start mating at the age of 3 months, it can harm them physically and mentally.
Females can produce offspring until they’re 2 years old.
1-2. Introduce the 2 gerbils in a split cage so they get used to one another.
Gerbils that aren’t raised in the same cage may not initially get along if they’re introduced too quickly. Either split the existing cage you have in half or buy a split cage. Put 1 gerbil on each side of the cage. After a day or 2, switch the sides the gerbils are on so they can get used to each other’s scent. Continue swapping the sides 2 times a day for at least a week.
Split cages can be purchased online or from your local pet store.
1-3. Put the gerbils together in the same cage once they’re comfortable.
Over the time that your gerbils are in the split cage, you may notice them sleeping next to one another with the wall between them or them getting curious. After the first week, try putting your gerbils together to see if they interact well. Watch them closely for 30 minutes to see how they behave.
It’s normal for your gerbils to play fight and chase each other as they get used to sharing a space. If they actually start biting or you see blood, separate the gerbils again.
Keep the gerbils apart for 10 days if you need to separate them again.
1-4. Allow the gerbils to mate while the female is in heat.
Your female gerbil will be interested in mating every 4 to 6 days. As they mate, you may notice them chasing one another followed by the male mounting the female. If your gerbil is healthy, you can expect it to be pregnant.
2. Taking Care of Your Pregnant Gerbil
2-1. Remove toys and equipment from the cage when your gerbil is pregnant.
Newborn gerbils can get stuck or lost from their mother if the tank is filled with equipment. Take out everything in the cage except the water, food, and bedding to ensure that your pups will survive.
2-2. Feed the mother gerbil a high-fat diet.
Your gerbil’s pregnancy can lower its protein and energy levels, so a slight boost in its fat intake can help it stay healthy. Leave 2-3 sunflower seeds or peanut halves in the food dish for the mother. You can also get a high-fat gerbil feed from your local pet store or online.
Make sure the feed’s fat content is still under 4%, or else the life expectancy of your gerbil could drop if it gets too overweight.
2-3. Wait about 24 days for your gerbil to give birth.
Your gerbil won’t show signs of pregnancy until the last few days of its 24-day gestation period. Avoid interacting with your gerbil more than once or twice per day since they can get slightly aggressive while pregnant.
2-4. Don’t disturb the mother gerbil while it gives birth.
The parent gerbils will do all the work, so it’s best to avoid interacting with them once the pups are delivered. Don’t try to reach in and touch the new pups since the mother may bite you or she may reject the babies.
You may interact with the father gerbil for the first 48 hours after birth. The father will leave the mother alone with its pups during this time so they get used to one another.
3. Caring for the Litter
3-1. Leave the parent gerbils and their pups alone for the first week.
After your gerbil has pups, the mother will bring them into a corner to make a nest. The mother and father gerbil will both help raise their young. Avoid interacting with them or changing anything in the cage during the first week after the litter is born.
3-2. Start handling the pups after 10 days so they get used to your scent.
After 10 days, your baby gerbils will have started growing fur, but they still can’t open their eyes. Let the baby gerbils move around in your hand, making sure they don’t fall. They may try to lick or lightly bite so they grow accustomed to you.
Always wash your hands before and after you touch the babies or else the mother might reject them.
After 19 days, your gerbils should open their eyes and may need to get used to you by sight.
3-3. Feed the pups solid foods after 4-5 weeks.
After 4 weeks, your baby gerbils will stop feeding from their mother. Use your regular gerbil feed for the babies, and keep a water bottle low enough so they can drink it when they want.
3-4. Separate the male and female pups when they’re 6 weeks old.
Check between the gerbil's hind legs for 2 bumps, their urethra and anus. If the bumps are separated by about ⁄2 in (1.3 cm), then your gerbil is male. If the bumps are close together, the gerbil is female. Keep the female and male gerbils in separate cages so they don’t start mating.
Tips
Unless you’re keeping the gerbils for yourself, try to find buyers for your litter before you start breeding.
Warnings
Consider adopting or buying gerbils if you don’t want to care for a full litter.
Make sure your gerbils are healthy before they mate so their pups stay healthy.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:58:35",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Introducing and Mating the Gerbils\\n1-1. Choose healthy gerbils over the age of 6 months.\\nPick a male and female gerbil that are the most docile and easy to handle. Make sure they don’t have any illnesses or deformities since these traits may get passed down to the litter.\\nEven though gerbils can start mating at the age of 3 months, it can harm them physically and mentally.\\nFemales can produce offspring until they’re 2 years old.\\n1-2. Introduce the 2 gerbils in a split cage so they get used to one another.\\nGerbils that aren’t raised in the same cage may not initially get along if they’re introduced too quickly. Either split the existing cage you have in half or buy a split cage. Put 1 gerbil on each side of the cage. After a day or 2, switch the sides the gerbils are on so they can get used to each other’s scent. Continue swapping the sides 2 times a day for at least a week.\\nSplit cages can be purchased online or from your local pet store.\\n1-3. Put the gerbils together in the same cage once they’re comfortable.\\nOver the time that your gerbils are in the split cage, you may notice them sleeping next to one another with the wall between them or them getting curious. After the first week, try putting your gerbils together to see if they interact well. Watch them closely for 30 minutes to see how they behave.\\nIt’s normal for your gerbils to play fight and chase each other as they get used to sharing a space. If they actually start biting or you see blood, separate the gerbils again.\\nKeep the gerbils apart for 10 days if you need to separate them again.\\n1-4. Allow the gerbils to mate while the female is in heat.\\nYour female gerbil will be interested in mating every 4 to 6 days. As they mate, you may notice them chasing one another followed by the male mounting the female. If your gerbil is healthy, you can expect it to be pregnant.\\n2. Taking Care of Your Pregnant Gerbil\\n2-1. Remove toys and equipment from the cage when your gerbil is pregnant.\\nNewborn gerbils can get stuck or lost from their mother if the tank is filled with equipment. Take out everything in the cage except the water, food, and bedding to ensure that your pups will survive.\\n2-2. Feed the mother gerbil a high-fat diet.\\nYour gerbil’s pregnancy can lower its protein and energy levels, so a slight boost in its fat intake can help it stay healthy. Leave 2-3 sunflower seeds or peanut halves in the food dish for the mother. You can also get a high-fat gerbil feed from your local pet store or online.\\nMake sure the feed’s fat content is still under 4%, or else the life expectancy of your gerbil could drop if it gets too overweight.\\n2-3. Wait about 24 days for your gerbil to give birth.\\nYour gerbil won’t show signs of pregnancy until the last few days of its 24-day gestation period. Avoid interacting with your gerbil more than once or twice per day since they can get slightly aggressive while pregnant.\\n2-4. Don’t disturb the mother gerbil while it gives birth.\\nThe parent gerbils will do all the work, so it’s best to avoid interacting with them once the pups are delivered. Don’t try to reach in and touch the new pups since the mother may bite you or she may reject the babies.\\nYou may interact with the father gerbil for the first 48 hours after birth. The father will leave the mother alone with its pups during this time so they get used to one another.\\n3. Caring for the Litter\\n3-1. Leave the parent gerbils and their pups alone for the first week.\\nAfter your gerbil has pups, the mother will bring them into a corner to make a nest. The mother and father gerbil will both help raise their young. Avoid interacting with them or changing anything in the cage during the first week after the litter is born.\\n3-2. Start handling the pups after 10 days so they get used to your scent.\\nAfter 10 days, your baby gerbils will have started growing fur, but they still can’t open their eyes. Let the baby gerbils move around in your hand, making sure they don’t fall. They may try to lick or lightly bite so they grow accustomed to you.\\nAlways wash your hands before and after you touch the babies or else the mother might reject them.\\nAfter 19 days, your gerbils should open their eyes and may need to get used to you by sight.\\n3-3. Feed the pups solid foods after 4-5 weeks.\\nAfter 4 weeks, your baby gerbils will stop feeding from their mother. Use your regular gerbil feed for the babies, and keep a water bottle low enough so they can drink it when they want.\\n3-4. Separate the male and female pups when they’re 6 weeks old.\\nCheck between the gerbil's hind legs for 2 bumps, their urethra and anus. If the bumps are separated by about ⁄2 in (1.3 cm), then your gerbil is male. If the bumps are close together, the gerbil is female. Keep the female and male gerbils in separate cages so they don’t start mating.\\nTips\\nUnless you’re keeping the gerbils for yourself, try to find buyers for your litter before you start breeding.\\nWarnings\\nConsider adopting or buying gerbils if you don’t want to care for a full litter.\\nMake sure your gerbils are healthy before they mate so their pups stay healthy.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Gerbils make great pets, and breeding them is a good way to pass down favorable traits. Each litter usually consists of around 6 young, known as pups. If you're thinking about breeding your gerbils, make sure they get along with one another so they can mate. Once the pups are born, it's easy to care them since the parents do most of the work. When your gerbils are grown up, you'll have new pets that you can choose to breed again!\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Introducing and Mating the Gerbils\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Choose healthy gerbils over the age of 6 months.\", \"描述\": \"Pick a male and female gerbil that are the most docile and easy to handle. Make sure they don’t have any illnesses or deformities since these traits may get passed down to the litter.\\nEven though gerbils can start mating at the age of 3 months, it can harm them physically and mentally.\\nFemales can produce offspring until they’re 2 years old.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Introduce the 2 gerbils in a split cage so they get used to one another.\", \"描述\": \"Gerbils that aren’t raised in the same cage may not initially get along if they’re introduced too quickly. Either split the existing cage you have in half or buy a split cage. Put 1 gerbil on each side of the cage. After a day or 2, switch the sides the gerbils are on so they can get used to each other’s scent. Continue swapping the sides 2 times a day for at least a week.\\nSplit cages can be purchased online or from your local pet store.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Put the gerbils together in the same cage once they’re comfortable.\", \"描述\": \"Over the time that your gerbils are in the split cage, you may notice them sleeping next to one another with the wall between them or them getting curious. After the first week, try putting your gerbils together to see if they interact well. Watch them closely for 30 minutes to see how they behave.\\nIt’s normal for your gerbils to play fight and chase each other as they get used to sharing a space. If they actually start biting or you see blood, separate the gerbils again.\\nKeep the gerbils apart for 10 days if you need to separate them again.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Allow the gerbils to mate while the female is in heat.\", \"描述\": \"Your female gerbil will be interested in mating every 4 to 6 days. As they mate, you may notice them chasing one another followed by the male mounting the female. If your gerbil is healthy, you can expect it to be pregnant.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Taking Care of Your Pregnant Gerbil\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Remove toys and equipment from the cage when your gerbil is pregnant.\", \"描述\": \"Newborn gerbils can get stuck or lost from their mother if the tank is filled with equipment. Take out everything in the cage except the water, food, and bedding to ensure that your pups will survive.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Feed the mother gerbil a high-fat diet.\", \"描述\": \"Your gerbil’s pregnancy can lower its protein and energy levels, so a slight boost in its fat intake can help it stay healthy. Leave 2-3 sunflower seeds or peanut halves in the food dish for the mother. You can also get a high-fat gerbil feed from your local pet store or online.\\nMake sure the feed’s fat content is still under 4%, or else the life expectancy of your gerbil could drop if it gets too overweight.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Wait about 24 days for your gerbil to give birth.\", \"描述\": \"Your gerbil won’t show signs of pregnancy until the last few days of its 24-day gestation period. Avoid interacting with your gerbil more than once or twice per day since they can get slightly aggressive while pregnant.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Don’t disturb the mother gerbil while it gives birth.\", \"描述\": \"The parent gerbils will do all the work, so it’s best to avoid interacting with them once the pups are delivered. Don’t try to reach in and touch the new pups since the mother may bite you or she may reject the babies.\\nYou may interact with the father gerbil for the first 48 hours after birth. The father will leave the mother alone with its pups during this time so they get used to one another.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Caring for the Litter\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Leave the parent gerbils and their pups alone for the first week.\", \"描述\": \"After your gerbil has pups, the mother will bring them into a corner to make a nest. The mother and father gerbil will both help raise their young. Avoid interacting with them or changing anything in the cage during the first week after the litter is born.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Start handling the pups after 10 days so they get used to your scent.\", \"描述\": \"After 10 days, your baby gerbils will have started growing fur, but they still can’t open their eyes. Let the baby gerbils move around in your hand, making sure they don’t fall. They may try to lick or lightly bite so they grow accustomed to you.\\nAlways wash your hands before and after you touch the babies or else the mother might reject them.\\nAfter 19 days, your gerbils should open their eyes and may need to get used to you by sight.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Feed the pups solid foods after 4-5 weeks.\", \"描述\": \"After 4 weeks, your baby gerbils will stop feeding from their mother. Use your regular gerbil feed for the babies, and keep a water bottle low enough so they can drink it when they want.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Separate the male and female pups when they’re 6 weeks old.\", \"描述\": \"Check between the gerbil's hind legs for 2 bumps, their urethra and anus. If the bumps are separated by about ⁄2 in (1.3 cm), then your gerbil is male. If the bumps are close together, the gerbil is female. Keep the female and male gerbils in separate cages so they don’t start mating.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Unless you’re keeping the gerbils for yourself, try to find buyers for your litter before you start breeding.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Consider adopting or buying gerbils if you don’t want to care for a full litter.\\n\", \"Make sure your gerbils are healthy before they mate so their pups stay healthy.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
6,925 |
How to Breed Ghost Shrimp
|
1. Preparing a Good Breeding Environment
1-1. Purchase a large fish tank.
Your fish tank should hold about 1 gallon (4 L) of water for each shrimp. No matter how many you have, ghost shrimp will be most comfortable in at least 10 gallons (40 L) of water.
If you have to keep your shrimp in a tank smaller than 10 gallons (40 L), allow 1.5 gallons (6 L) or more for each shrimp to make up for the small space.
1-2. Purchase a second tank for breeding.
The hardest part of breeding ghost shrimp is keeping the young shrimp alive. If you let the eggs hatch in the same tank as the adult shrimp, the young could be eaten by the adults. This second tank doesn't need to be as large as the first, but a larger tank will give the young shrimp the best chance at survival.
1-3. Use any filter for the main tank, and a sponge filter for the breeding tank.
Filters are necessary to keep aquarium water clean. Most filters suck the water in to clean it, but these can kill the tiny ghost shrimp young. Use a sponge filter instead to avoid this possibility.
If your tank is larger than 10 gallons (37.9 L) and contains fish as well as shrimp, you should use a hang-on or canister filter to provide better cleaning. Never use anything besides a sponge filter for the breeding tank.
If you don't want to buy a sponge filter, you can cover your filter's water intake with a sponge or a piece of nylon stocking. Alternatively, if your filter intake is too weak to suck in adult shrimp, you can disconnect the filter before the young hatch and replace 10% of the water volume in the tank every day until the young are fully grown and you can turn the filter on again.
1-4. Install an air pump in each tank.
Like most aquarium pets, ghost shrimp need air pumped through the water in order to breathe. Without an air pump, the water will run out of oxygen and the shrimp will suffocate.
1-5. Cover the bottom of each tank with sand or gravel.
Sand or light gravel will keep the shrimp transparent, while dark gravel will cause them to develop small specks and make them more visible. Pick any color and type you like.
For additional detail in setting up a freshwater aquarium, see this article.
1-6. Fill the tanks with appropriate water.
Many places treat tap water with chlorine, so treat it with a dechlorinator or chloramine remover to make it safe for animals. At the very least, leave it out for 24 hours before adding the shrimp so some of the chlorine will evaporate.
1-7. Keep the water at 65-82º F (18-28º C).
This is the broad range of temperatures ghost shrimp are comfortable in, but many people prefer to stick near the center of this range. Put a thermometer in the tank to check the water temperature, and use an aquarium tank heater if you keep the shrimp in a cold room.
1-8. Add live plants and hiding places.
Ghost shrimp feed off the debris that falls from plants, but you can keep them with just store-bought food if you'd prefer not to deal with plants. Aquarium plants with fine, thin leaves are the best to use, such as hornwort, cabomba, and milfoil. If kept in a tank with other fish, small flower pots or other containers should be placed upside down to provide hiding places only the shrimp can enter.
For best results, give your plants about a month to stabilize the chemical levels in the tank. Sudden changes in nitrogen levels or other chemicals could kill your ghost shrimp.
See this article for instructions on planting aquarium plants.
Adding plants to the breeding tank in advance is strongly recommended, as plant debris is one of the few foods small enough for the shrimp young to eat. Many people use in their shrimp breeding tank, which may trap food debris to help the young shrimp eat.
2. Caring for Adult Shrimp
2-1. Buy high quality shrimp for pets, and feeder shrimp if you're breeding them as animal food.
"Feeder shrimp" are bred to produce high numbers of young, but they tend to be more fragile and have shorter life spans. Well treated ghost shrimp should live for a couple of years, and will be much easier to care for and breed.
The seller should know which type of ghost shrimp he sells. You can also guess based on the living conditions: if the shrimp are kept in a cramped space without many plants, they are probably feeder shrimp.
2-2. Introduce the shrimp to the new water slowly.
Float the bag of water with the shrimp inside on top of the tank's water. Every 20 minutes, dispose of 1/4 of the water from the bag, then replace it with water from the tank. After you've done this three or four times, pour the bag out into the tank. This lets them adjust to the temperature and chemical change slowly.
2-3. Feed the shrimp tiny amounts of fish food.
Shrimp are active scavengers, but while they can live off algae and plant debris if required, you should encourage reproduction by giving them a minuscule daily allotment of fish food. A single crushed pellet a day can sustain six adult shrimp.
If you keep other fish in the tank, use sinking pellets, since the shrimp will not be able to compete for floating food with larger animals.
2-4. Change the water once every week or two
Even if the water looks clear, chemicals could be building up that prevent the shrimp from thriving. Change 20-30% of the water every week for best results. Make sure the water temperature of the old and new water is the same to avoid stressing the aquarium's inhabitants.
Changing 40-50% of the water every other week may also work, especially if the tank doesn't have many fish or shrimp for its size.
2-5. Be cautious about adding other fish to the tank.
Almost any medium to large fish will eat ghost shrimp, or at least spook them enough to make breeding difficult. If you want a more varied tank, add snails and small fish only.
If you have decided not to use a breeding tank, do not include any fish at all in the single tank you have. The adult shrimp will already eat many of the young shrimp; with additional predators, not many young will survive to adulthood.
3. Hatching and Feeding the Young Shrimp
3-1. Check that you have both males and females.
Adult female ghost shrimp tend to be much larger than males. The size difference is significant, so you should be able to tell the difference easily once your shrimp are full grown.
You don't need equal numbers of each. One male for every two females is plenty.
3-2. Look for females carrying eggs.
If you've cared for your ghost shrimp properly, the females should produce eggs every few weeks at least. These are bunches of 20–30 tiny green-grey eggs attached to the females' legs. These legs, or "swimmerets", are short limbs attached to the lower body of the female, so it may look like the eggs are attached to the female belly.
Look from the side of the tank for the best view, and get someone with sharp eyesight to help you if the babies are hatching before you see the eggs.
3-3. After a few days, transfer females carrying eggs to the breeding tank.
Give the males a chance to fertilize the eggs, then transport the females. Use a net to catch the females and quickly move them to the prepared breeding tank without other shrimp or fish. Move the breeding tank nearby and transfer directly if possible; females have been known to drop their eggs when stressed, so don't make the transfer prolonged.
3-4. Wait 21–24 days until the eggs hatch.
Keep checking on the female to watch the progress of the eggs. Near the end of the process, you might be able to see tiny black dots within each egg: these are the baby shrimps' eyes! When the eggs finally hatch, the female will swim upwards and flick the young off of her legs a few at a time.
Don't disturb the female if you see her flicking the young away, as they need to be deposited within an hour in order to feed. She may take a while to do this, since in the wild the young have a better survival rate if she deposits them in different places.
3-5. Transfer the female back to the main tank.
After she is done depositing the hatched young, move the female back to the other tank. The parent is no longer needed in the young shrimp's life, and in fact may attempt to eat her children.
Once the young shrimp are alone and moving about on their own, you may not even be able to see them, as they are extremely tiny when newly hatched. Continue to add food to the breeding tank for three weeks even if you don't see them.
3-6. Feed them small amounts of specialized tiny food.
For the next week or two, these shrimp will float around in the larvae stage, and have extremely tiny mouth parts. Your breeding tank should already have plenty of plants and algae to provide debris small enough for them to eat, called "infusoria". You should still supplement this with any of the following types of food, but remember the shrimp only need tiny amounts:
Storebought "rotifers" food, baby brine shrimp, microworms, or powdered spirulina algae are all suitable for young ghost shrimp.
You can buy "fry food" intended for young fish, but be sure to select powdered fry food suitable for "egg layer" sized animals.
Strain small pieces of egg yolk through a fine mesh strainer if you don't want to use storebought food.
Java moss may help trap food for young shrimp to eat, but don't add or remove plants while larvae are in the tank, as it could disturb the chemical balance of the water.
3-7. Feed them the same food as regular shrimp once they've grown legs.
The surviving larvae will enter the juvenile phase, and look just like miniature adults. AT this point they can feed off regular food, although you may want to crush pellets and other large food items to help them out.
3-8. Transfer the shrimp back to the tank once fully grown.
The shrimp will grow all their legs and develop into miniature versions of the adults after 1 to 2 weeks. After 5 weeks, they will be fully grown and can be transported back to the other tank.
If you have a younger batch of eggs or larvae in the breeding tank, move the larger shrimp out after 3 to 4 weeks.
4. Troubleshooting
4-1. Don't transfer the females if it causes the eggs to fail.
Transferring the females to the breeding tank can stress them out and interfere with the adult's and eggs' growth. If the females drop the eggs or die after transfer, alter your main tank instead to take care of the young there:
Remove any fish from the main tank. Since you won't be using your breeding tank after all, you can move them there, altering the plant composition if necessary to suit the species.
Turn off or cover the filter. If your filter has a water intake pipe, it will suck in and kill the young shrimp. Cover the intake with a sponge or piece of nylon stocking, or turn it off and clean the water manually by replacing 10% of it every day until the young are grown.
Accept that some young shrimp will be eaten by the adults. You can reduce the chance of this happening by using a spacious tank, but it will be difficult to avoid.
4-2. Keep watching if the young shrimp won't eat.
The floating larvae may not eat much directly after hatching. If they are still ignoring their food the next day, you should try a different food immediately, as they can starve quickly.
4-3. If all the shrimp die after putting them in the tank, use different water or introduce the shrimp more slowly.
You may need to use tap water treated with a dechlorinator, or even bottled water. Do not use rainwater or local river water unless ghost shrimp live in the river you took it from.
You should never pour the bag of water with the shrimp directly into the tank. See Caring for Adult Shrimp for instructions on introducing your shrimp.
You may also want to purchase an aquarium test kit to test the characteristics of your water. See the Tips section below for the correct pH, dH, and chemical levels for ghost shrimp.
Tips
Buy the shrimp from the pet store. Don't take them from their natural habitat.
If you track pH or acidity levels, keep them between 6.3 and 7.5. dH, a measurement of water hardness, should be between 3 and 10.
If you keep track of your tank's levels of ammonia, nitrite, and nitrates, keep these as close to zero as possible for better breeding.
Warnings
Make sure the shrimp are not in cold water as it can freeze them.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:58:35",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Preparing a Good Breeding Environment\\n1-1. Purchase a large fish tank.\\nYour fish tank should hold about 1 gallon (4 L) of water for each shrimp. No matter how many you have, ghost shrimp will be most comfortable in at least 10 gallons (40 L) of water.\\nIf you have to keep your shrimp in a tank smaller than 10 gallons (40 L), allow 1.5 gallons (6 L) or more for each shrimp to make up for the small space.\\n1-2. Purchase a second tank for breeding.\\nThe hardest part of breeding ghost shrimp is keeping the young shrimp alive. If you let the eggs hatch in the same tank as the adult shrimp, the young could be eaten by the adults. This second tank doesn't need to be as large as the first, but a larger tank will give the young shrimp the best chance at survival.\\n1-3. Use any filter for the main tank, and a sponge filter for the breeding tank.\\nFilters are necessary to keep aquarium water clean. Most filters suck the water in to clean it, but these can kill the tiny ghost shrimp young. Use a sponge filter instead to avoid this possibility.\\nIf your tank is larger than 10 gallons (37.9 L) and contains fish as well as shrimp, you should use a hang-on or canister filter to provide better cleaning. Never use anything besides a sponge filter for the breeding tank.\\nIf you don't want to buy a sponge filter, you can cover your filter's water intake with a sponge or a piece of nylon stocking. Alternatively, if your filter intake is too weak to suck in adult shrimp, you can disconnect the filter before the young hatch and replace 10% of the water volume in the tank every day until the young are fully grown and you can turn the filter on again.\\n1-4. Install an air pump in each tank.\\nLike most aquarium pets, ghost shrimp need air pumped through the water in order to breathe. Without an air pump, the water will run out of oxygen and the shrimp will suffocate.\\n1-5. Cover the bottom of each tank with sand or gravel.\\nSand or light gravel will keep the shrimp transparent, while dark gravel will cause them to develop small specks and make them more visible. Pick any color and type you like.\\nFor additional detail in setting up a freshwater aquarium, see this article.\\n1-6. Fill the tanks with appropriate water.\\nMany places treat tap water with chlorine, so treat it with a dechlorinator or chloramine remover to make it safe for animals. At the very least, leave it out for 24 hours before adding the shrimp so some of the chlorine will evaporate.\\n1-7. Keep the water at 65-82º F (18-28º C).\\nThis is the broad range of temperatures ghost shrimp are comfortable in, but many people prefer to stick near the center of this range. Put a thermometer in the tank to check the water temperature, and use an aquarium tank heater if you keep the shrimp in a cold room.\\n1-8. Add live plants and hiding places.\\nGhost shrimp feed off the debris that falls from plants, but you can keep them with just store-bought food if you'd prefer not to deal with plants. Aquarium plants with fine, thin leaves are the best to use, such as hornwort, cabomba, and milfoil. If kept in a tank with other fish, small flower pots or other containers should be placed upside down to provide hiding places only the shrimp can enter.\\nFor best results, give your plants about a month to stabilize the chemical levels in the tank. Sudden changes in nitrogen levels or other chemicals could kill your ghost shrimp.\\nSee this article for instructions on planting aquarium plants.\\nAdding plants to the breeding tank in advance is strongly recommended, as plant debris is one of the few foods small enough for the shrimp young to eat. Many people use in their shrimp breeding tank, which may trap food debris to help the young shrimp eat.\\n2. Caring for Adult Shrimp\\n2-1. Buy high quality shrimp for pets, and feeder shrimp if you're breeding them as animal food.\\n\\\"Feeder shrimp\\\" are bred to produce high numbers of young, but they tend to be more fragile and have shorter life spans. Well treated ghost shrimp should live for a couple of years, and will be much easier to care for and breed.\\nThe seller should know which type of ghost shrimp he sells. You can also guess based on the living conditions: if the shrimp are kept in a cramped space without many plants, they are probably feeder shrimp.\\n2-2. Introduce the shrimp to the new water slowly.\\nFloat the bag of water with the shrimp inside on top of the tank's water. Every 20 minutes, dispose of 1/4 of the water from the bag, then replace it with water from the tank. After you've done this three or four times, pour the bag out into the tank. This lets them adjust to the temperature and chemical change slowly.\\n2-3. Feed the shrimp tiny amounts of fish food.\\nShrimp are active scavengers, but while they can live off algae and plant debris if required, you should encourage reproduction by giving them a minuscule daily allotment of fish food. A single crushed pellet a day can sustain six adult shrimp.\\nIf you keep other fish in the tank, use sinking pellets, since the shrimp will not be able to compete for floating food with larger animals.\\n2-4. Change the water once every week or two\\nEven if the water looks clear, chemicals could be building up that prevent the shrimp from thriving. Change 20-30% of the water every week for best results. Make sure the water temperature of the old and new water is the same to avoid stressing the aquarium's inhabitants.\\nChanging 40-50% of the water every other week may also work, especially if the tank doesn't have many fish or shrimp for its size.\\n2-5. Be cautious about adding other fish to the tank.\\nAlmost any medium to large fish will eat ghost shrimp, or at least spook them enough to make breeding difficult. If you want a more varied tank, add snails and small fish only.\\nIf you have decided not to use a breeding tank, do not include any fish at all in the single tank you have. The adult shrimp will already eat many of the young shrimp; with additional predators, not many young will survive to adulthood.\\n3. Hatching and Feeding the Young Shrimp\\n3-1. Check that you have both males and females.\\nAdult female ghost shrimp tend to be much larger than males. The size difference is significant, so you should be able to tell the difference easily once your shrimp are full grown.\\nYou don't need equal numbers of each. One male for every two females is plenty.\\n3-2. Look for females carrying eggs.\\nIf you've cared for your ghost shrimp properly, the females should produce eggs every few weeks at least. These are bunches of 20–30 tiny green-grey eggs attached to the females' legs. These legs, or \\\"swimmerets\\\", are short limbs attached to the lower body of the female, so it may look like the eggs are attached to the female belly.\\nLook from the side of the tank for the best view, and get someone with sharp eyesight to help you if the babies are hatching before you see the eggs.\\n3-3. After a few days, transfer females carrying eggs to the breeding tank.\\nGive the males a chance to fertilize the eggs, then transport the females. Use a net to catch the females and quickly move them to the prepared breeding tank without other shrimp or fish. Move the breeding tank nearby and transfer directly if possible; females have been known to drop their eggs when stressed, so don't make the transfer prolonged.\\n3-4. Wait 21–24 days until the eggs hatch.\\nKeep checking on the female to watch the progress of the eggs. Near the end of the process, you might be able to see tiny black dots within each egg: these are the baby shrimps' eyes! When the eggs finally hatch, the female will swim upwards and flick the young off of her legs a few at a time.\\nDon't disturb the female if you see her flicking the young away, as they need to be deposited within an hour in order to feed. She may take a while to do this, since in the wild the young have a better survival rate if she deposits them in different places.\\n3-5. Transfer the female back to the main tank.\\nAfter she is done depositing the hatched young, move the female back to the other tank. The parent is no longer needed in the young shrimp's life, and in fact may attempt to eat her children.\\nOnce the young shrimp are alone and moving about on their own, you may not even be able to see them, as they are extremely tiny when newly hatched. Continue to add food to the breeding tank for three weeks even if you don't see them.\\n3-6. Feed them small amounts of specialized tiny food.\\nFor the next week or two, these shrimp will float around in the larvae stage, and have extremely tiny mouth parts. Your breeding tank should already have plenty of plants and algae to provide debris small enough for them to eat, called \\\"infusoria\\\". You should still supplement this with any of the following types of food, but remember the shrimp only need tiny amounts:\\nStorebought \\\"rotifers\\\" food, baby brine shrimp, microworms, or powdered spirulina algae are all suitable for young ghost shrimp.\\nYou can buy \\\"fry food\\\" intended for young fish, but be sure to select powdered fry food suitable for \\\"egg layer\\\" sized animals.\\nStrain small pieces of egg yolk through a fine mesh strainer if you don't want to use storebought food.\\nJava moss may help trap food for young shrimp to eat, but don't add or remove plants while larvae are in the tank, as it could disturb the chemical balance of the water.\\n3-7. Feed them the same food as regular shrimp once they've grown legs.\\nThe surviving larvae will enter the juvenile phase, and look just like miniature adults. AT this point they can feed off regular food, although you may want to crush pellets and other large food items to help them out.\\n3-8. Transfer the shrimp back to the tank once fully grown.\\nThe shrimp will grow all their legs and develop into miniature versions of the adults after 1 to 2 weeks. After 5 weeks, they will be fully grown and can be transported back to the other tank.\\nIf you have a younger batch of eggs or larvae in the breeding tank, move the larger shrimp out after 3 to 4 weeks.\\n4. Troubleshooting\\n4-1. Don't transfer the females if it causes the eggs to fail.\\nTransferring the females to the breeding tank can stress them out and interfere with the adult's and eggs' growth. If the females drop the eggs or die after transfer, alter your main tank instead to take care of the young there:\\nRemove any fish from the main tank. Since you won't be using your breeding tank after all, you can move them there, altering the plant composition if necessary to suit the species.\\nTurn off or cover the filter. If your filter has a water intake pipe, it will suck in and kill the young shrimp. Cover the intake with a sponge or piece of nylon stocking, or turn it off and clean the water manually by replacing 10% of it every day until the young are grown.\\nAccept that some young shrimp will be eaten by the adults. You can reduce the chance of this happening by using a spacious tank, but it will be difficult to avoid.\\n4-2. Keep watching if the young shrimp won't eat.\\nThe floating larvae may not eat much directly after hatching. If they are still ignoring their food the next day, you should try a different food immediately, as they can starve quickly.\\n4-3. If all the shrimp die after putting them in the tank, use different water or introduce the shrimp more slowly.\\nYou may need to use tap water treated with a dechlorinator, or even bottled water. Do not use rainwater or local river water unless ghost shrimp live in the river you took it from.\\nYou should never pour the bag of water with the shrimp directly into the tank. See Caring for Adult Shrimp for instructions on introducing your shrimp.\\nYou may also want to purchase an aquarium test kit to test the characteristics of your water. See the Tips section below for the correct pH, dH, and chemical levels for ghost shrimp.\\nTips\\nBuy the shrimp from the pet store. Don't take them from their natural habitat.\\nIf you track pH or acidity levels, keep them between 6.3 and 7.5. dH, a measurement of water hardness, should be between 3 and 10.\\nIf you keep track of your tank's levels of ammonia, nitrite, and nitrates, keep these as close to zero as possible for better breeding.\\nWarnings\\nMake sure the shrimp are not in cold water as it can freeze them.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Ghost shrimp, also called glass shrimp, are small, transparent shrimp commonly sold as aquarium pets or fish food. While several species are referred to by the same name, they can all be cared for in the same basic way. If the shrimp are kept in a comfortable environment with no predators, they can breed rapidly.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Preparing a Good Breeding Environment\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Purchase a large fish tank.\", \"描述\": \"Your fish tank should hold about 1 gallon (4 L) of water for each shrimp. No matter how many you have, ghost shrimp will be most comfortable in at least 10 gallons (40 L) of water.\\nIf you have to keep your shrimp in a tank smaller than 10 gallons (40 L), allow 1.5 gallons (6 L) or more for each shrimp to make up for the small space.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Purchase a second tank for breeding.\", \"描述\": \"The hardest part of breeding ghost shrimp is keeping the young shrimp alive. If you let the eggs hatch in the same tank as the adult shrimp, the young could be eaten by the adults. This second tank doesn't need to be as large as the first, but a larger tank will give the young shrimp the best chance at survival.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Use any filter for the main tank, and a sponge filter for the breeding tank.\", \"描述\": \"Filters are necessary to keep aquarium water clean. Most filters suck the water in to clean it, but these can kill the tiny ghost shrimp young. Use a sponge filter instead to avoid this possibility.\\nIf your tank is larger than 10 gallons (37.9 L) and contains fish as well as shrimp, you should use a hang-on or canister filter to provide better cleaning. Never use anything besides a sponge filter for the breeding tank.\\nIf you don't want to buy a sponge filter, you can cover your filter's water intake with a sponge or a piece of nylon stocking. Alternatively, if your filter intake is too weak to suck in adult shrimp, you can disconnect the filter before the young hatch and replace 10% of the water volume in the tank every day until the young are fully grown and you can turn the filter on again.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Install an air pump in each tank.\", \"描述\": \"Like most aquarium pets, ghost shrimp need air pumped through the water in order to breathe. Without an air pump, the water will run out of oxygen and the shrimp will suffocate.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Cover the bottom of each tank with sand or gravel.\", \"描述\": \"Sand or light gravel will keep the shrimp transparent, while dark gravel will cause them to develop small specks and make them more visible. Pick any color and type you like.\\nFor additional detail in setting up a freshwater aquarium, see this article.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Fill the tanks with appropriate water.\", \"描述\": \"Many places treat tap water with chlorine, so treat it with a dechlorinator or chloramine remover to make it safe for animals. At the very least, leave it out for 24 hours before adding the shrimp so some of the chlorine will evaporate.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Keep the water at 65-82º F (18-28º C).\", \"描述\": \"This is the broad range of temperatures ghost shrimp are comfortable in, but many people prefer to stick near the center of this range. Put a thermometer in the tank to check the water temperature, and use an aquarium tank heater if you keep the shrimp in a cold room.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Add live plants and hiding places.\", \"描述\": \"Ghost shrimp feed off the debris that falls from plants, but you can keep them with just store-bought food if you'd prefer not to deal with plants. Aquarium plants with fine, thin leaves are the best to use, such as hornwort, cabomba, and milfoil. If kept in a tank with other fish, small flower pots or other containers should be placed upside down to provide hiding places only the shrimp can enter.\\nFor best results, give your plants about a month to stabilize the chemical levels in the tank. Sudden changes in nitrogen levels or other chemicals could kill your ghost shrimp.\\nSee this article for instructions on planting aquarium plants.\\nAdding plants to the breeding tank in advance is strongly recommended, as plant debris is one of the few foods small enough for the shrimp young to eat. Many people use in their shrimp breeding tank, which may trap food debris to help the young shrimp eat.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Caring for Adult Shrimp\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Buy high quality shrimp for pets, and feeder shrimp if you're breeding them as animal food.\", \"描述\": \"\\\"Feeder shrimp\\\" are bred to produce high numbers of young, but they tend to be more fragile and have shorter life spans. Well treated ghost shrimp should live for a couple of years, and will be much easier to care for and breed.\\nThe seller should know which type of ghost shrimp he sells. You can also guess based on the living conditions: if the shrimp are kept in a cramped space without many plants, they are probably feeder shrimp.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Introduce the shrimp to the new water slowly.\", \"描述\": \"Float the bag of water with the shrimp inside on top of the tank's water. Every 20 minutes, dispose of 1/4 of the water from the bag, then replace it with water from the tank. After you've done this three or four times, pour the bag out into the tank. This lets them adjust to the temperature and chemical change slowly.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Feed the shrimp tiny amounts of fish food.\", \"描述\": \"Shrimp are active scavengers, but while they can live off algae and plant debris if required, you should encourage reproduction by giving them a minuscule daily allotment of fish food. A single crushed pellet a day can sustain six adult shrimp.\\nIf you keep other fish in the tank, use sinking pellets, since the shrimp will not be able to compete for floating food with larger animals.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Change the water once every week or two\", \"描述\": \"Even if the water looks clear, chemicals could be building up that prevent the shrimp from thriving. Change 20-30% of the water every week for best results. Make sure the water temperature of the old and new water is the same to avoid stressing the aquarium's inhabitants.\\nChanging 40-50% of the water every other week may also work, especially if the tank doesn't have many fish or shrimp for its size.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Be cautious about adding other fish to the tank.\", \"描述\": \"Almost any medium to large fish will eat ghost shrimp, or at least spook them enough to make breeding difficult. If you want a more varied tank, add snails and small fish only.\\nIf you have decided not to use a breeding tank, do not include any fish at all in the single tank you have. The adult shrimp will already eat many of the young shrimp; with additional predators, not many young will survive to adulthood.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Hatching and Feeding the Young Shrimp\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Check that you have both males and females.\", \"描述\": \"Adult female ghost shrimp tend to be much larger than males. The size difference is significant, so you should be able to tell the difference easily once your shrimp are full grown.\\nYou don't need equal numbers of each. One male for every two females is plenty.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Look for females carrying eggs.\", \"描述\": \"If you've cared for your ghost shrimp properly, the females should produce eggs every few weeks at least. These are bunches of 20–30 tiny green-grey eggs attached to the females' legs. These legs, or \\\"swimmerets\\\", are short limbs attached to the lower body of the female, so it may look like the eggs are attached to the female belly.\\nLook from the side of the tank for the best view, and get someone with sharp eyesight to help you if the babies are hatching before you see the eggs.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"After a few days, transfer females carrying eggs to the breeding tank.\", \"描述\": \"Give the males a chance to fertilize the eggs, then transport the females. Use a net to catch the females and quickly move them to the prepared breeding tank without other shrimp or fish. Move the breeding tank nearby and transfer directly if possible; females have been known to drop their eggs when stressed, so don't make the transfer prolonged.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Wait 21–24 days until the eggs hatch.\", \"描述\": \"Keep checking on the female to watch the progress of the eggs. Near the end of the process, you might be able to see tiny black dots within each egg: these are the baby shrimps' eyes! When the eggs finally hatch, the female will swim upwards and flick the young off of her legs a few at a time.\\nDon't disturb the female if you see her flicking the young away, as they need to be deposited within an hour in order to feed. She may take a while to do this, since in the wild the young have a better survival rate if she deposits them in different places.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Transfer the female back to the main tank.\", \"描述\": \"After she is done depositing the hatched young, move the female back to the other tank. The parent is no longer needed in the young shrimp's life, and in fact may attempt to eat her children.\\nOnce the young shrimp are alone and moving about on their own, you may not even be able to see them, as they are extremely tiny when newly hatched. Continue to add food to the breeding tank for three weeks even if you don't see them.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Feed them small amounts of specialized tiny food.\", \"描述\": \"For the next week or two, these shrimp will float around in the larvae stage, and have extremely tiny mouth parts. Your breeding tank should already have plenty of plants and algae to provide debris small enough for them to eat, called \\\"infusoria\\\". You should still supplement this with any of the following types of food, but remember the shrimp only need tiny amounts:\\nStorebought \\\"rotifers\\\" food, baby brine shrimp, microworms, or powdered spirulina algae are all suitable for young ghost shrimp.\\nYou can buy \\\"fry food\\\" intended for young fish, but be sure to select powdered fry food suitable for \\\"egg layer\\\" sized animals.\\nStrain small pieces of egg yolk through a fine mesh strainer if you don't want to use storebought food.\\nJava moss may help trap food for young shrimp to eat, but don't add or remove plants while larvae are in the tank, as it could disturb the chemical balance of the water.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Feed them the same food as regular shrimp once they've grown legs.\", \"描述\": \"The surviving larvae will enter the juvenile phase, and look just like miniature adults. AT this point they can feed off regular food, although you may want to crush pellets and other large food items to help them out.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Transfer the shrimp back to the tank once fully grown.\", \"描述\": \"The shrimp will grow all their legs and develop into miniature versions of the adults after 1 to 2 weeks. After 5 weeks, they will be fully grown and can be transported back to the other tank.\\nIf you have a younger batch of eggs or larvae in the breeding tank, move the larger shrimp out after 3 to 4 weeks.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Troubleshooting\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Don't transfer the females if it causes the eggs to fail.\", \"描述\": \"Transferring the females to the breeding tank can stress them out and interfere with the adult's and eggs' growth. If the females drop the eggs or die after transfer, alter your main tank instead to take care of the young there:\\nRemove any fish from the main tank. Since you won't be using your breeding tank after all, you can move them there, altering the plant composition if necessary to suit the species.\\nTurn off or cover the filter. If your filter has a water intake pipe, it will suck in and kill the young shrimp. Cover the intake with a sponge or piece of nylon stocking, or turn it off and clean the water manually by replacing 10% of it every day until the young are grown.\\nAccept that some young shrimp will be eaten by the adults. You can reduce the chance of this happening by using a spacious tank, but it will be difficult to avoid.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Keep watching if the young shrimp won't eat.\", \"描述\": \"The floating larvae may not eat much directly after hatching. If they are still ignoring their food the next day, you should try a different food immediately, as they can starve quickly.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"If all the shrimp die after putting them in the tank, use different water or introduce the shrimp more slowly.\", \"描述\": \"You may need to use tap water treated with a dechlorinator, or even bottled water. Do not use rainwater or local river water unless ghost shrimp live in the river you took it from.\\nYou should never pour the bag of water with the shrimp directly into the tank. See Caring for Adult Shrimp for instructions on introducing your shrimp.\\nYou may also want to purchase an aquarium test kit to test the characteristics of your water. See the Tips section below for the correct pH, dH, and chemical levels for ghost shrimp.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Buy the shrimp from the pet store. Don't take them from their natural habitat.\\n\", \"If you track pH or acidity levels, keep them between 6.3 and 7.5. dH, a measurement of water hardness, should be between 3 and 10.\\n\", \"If you keep track of your tank's levels of ammonia, nitrite, and nitrates, keep these as close to zero as possible for better breeding.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Make sure the shrimp are not in cold water as it can freeze them.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
6,926 |
How to Breed Goats
|
1. Timing the Mating Cycle
1-1. Plan to breed when the days start getting shorter.
Unlike some domesticated animals, goats still tend to breed seasonally. The reduced daylight hours during autumn signal that it's mating season, so that the kids can be born after the oncoming winter.
In the Northern Hemisphere, this means that August to December is “prime time” for goat mating.
Goat breeding can happen year-round with the help of hormone treatments and artificial insemination, but usually only larger goat-raising operations resort to these methods.
1-2. Determine your buck's mating potential by his age.
Uncastrated male goats (bucks) are sexually mature by 5 months of age, and sometimes as early as 3-4 months. So, if you want to control the breeding process, keep any bucks over 3 months old separate from your does!
A buck that's 6 months to 1 year old can mate with about 10 does per season.
A healthy 2 year old buck may be able to mate with 25 does per season.
By 3 years of age, a buck in good health can mate with up to 40 does per season.
However, just because a buck can mate often doesn't mean it should. Be judicious when deciding how often to breed your goat to ensure the health of the goats and the kids.
1-3. Make sure your doe is large enough to manage pregnancy.
In most cases, a doe born in the spring can breed in the fall (at age 4 months or more), so long as she weighs more than 80 pounds (36 kg). However, it's better to wait until the doe is at least 1 year old and more than 100 pounds (45 kg).
A larger doe will be better able to carry twins or triplets, so keep this in mind especially if multiple births are common in your goats' pedigrees.
1-4. Watch for signs that the doe is in heat.
Does go into heat (or estrus) roughly every 21 days, for stretches of 2-3 days. To recognize estrus, look for indicators such as mucus discharge from the vulva, a swollen vulva, increased bleating, frequent tail wagging, excessive pacing, and an increased interest in any bucks nearby — or even anything that smells like a buck.
1-5. Look for changes that indicate the buck is “in rut.”
Bucks that are eager to mate are said to be “rutting” or “in rut.” The most obvious sign is a pungent odor — during this time bucks will urinate all over themselves, from head to tail. You may also notice more aggressive behavior and demonstrative facial maneuvers, like lip and tongue flapping and blubbering sounds.
To humans, the smell of a buck “in rut” is hard to handle, but it is very appealing to does in heat.
1-6. Entice a doe that needs encouragement to go into heat.
Some does won't go into heat unless there are bucks in the area. Try putting a “rutting” buck within sight and smell of the doe. This will usually solve the problem quickly.
Be careful when placing animals in heat near each other but in separate pens. The goats may injure themselves trying to get to each other. You should supervise them closely and check to make sure the fences are safe and free of defects.
Alternatively, you can use a “billy rag.” Rub a cloth over a “rutting” buck, then wave it around the doe and keep the rag in her proximity. The pungent scent is often enough to do the trick.
2. Bringing Goats Together for Mating
2-1. Rent bucks for convenience and genetic diversity.
Does and wethers (castrated males) are usually easier to care for (and smell better!), so some people choose not to keep any bucks. In this case, you can “rent” a buck from a neighbor, friend, or stud farm when the time is right.
Look for bucks with detailed and high-quality pedigrees, and utilize different bucks to increase the genetic diversity of your herd.
Some breeders advise strongly against mating bucks and does with substantial size differences, while others have not experienced problems with pregnancy or birthing in these cases. Consult your vet and experienced breeders about specific cases.
2-2. Raise your own bucks for greater control over the conditions.
If you raise your own bucks, you know everything about their background, temperament, living conditions, health history, and so on. You also won't have to scramble as much to get the goats together when the time is right.
Keep bucks separate from does except during mating times, but don't raise them alone. Goats are social creatures, so it's best to provide one or more wethers as friends if you have just one buck.
Caring for a buck can cost $150 USD per year, or roughly the cost of 5 mating rentals (which often run around $30 USD). Use the costs in your area to determine the economic comparison between owning and renting.
2-3. Keep detailed records of all elements of your breeding program.
Create a spreadsheet or similar document that details the estrus cycles, mating and birthing history, and any relevant health or behavior issues regarding your does. Likewise, record details on the pedigree, mating numbers and history, and inheritable traits for any bucks you own or rent.
Good records can help limit excessive in-breeding. For instance, siblings should not mate, and parent-child mating should be permitted rarely if at all.
In-breeding of less direct relatives can actually be a good thing, so long as you pair up goats with good pedigrees and characteristics, and don't breed ones with undesirable histories or traits.
2-4. Set up the “date” and let things happen naturally.
Pair up your chosen doe in heat and buck “in rut” by putting them together alone in the same enclosure. Often, they will get down to business right away, with the buck mounting the doe several times over a period of about 20 minutes, or perhaps up to an hour.
A disinterested doe will run away and fend off the buck. This means the time isn't right and you should try again another time.
An “old farmer's tale” says that you can bet on a successful copulation if the female's back arches during the mounting. But use this pearl of wisdom at your own risk!
2-5. Let the chosen mates pasture together for a less controlled process.
If you don't want to set up specific dates and confirm every detail of the mating process, you can use a more free-wheeling approach. Just leave the doe and buck alone together for a few days while the time is right, and they'll almost certainly copulate numerous times.
This method makes predicting a successful impregnation or timing out a due date more challenging, however.
2-6. Pay close attention to the doe's next scheduled estrus cycle.
Roughly 21 days after mating the doe with the buck, keep an eye out to see if the doe goes into heat again. If she doesn't, this is a very strong indicator that the doe is pregnant. Go ahead and start making plans for the pregnancy and birthing processes.
For even greater certainty, you can have a vet do an ultrasound. But this can be costly and is unnecessary in most cases.
2-7. Calculate the likely birth date.
Goats have an average gestation cycle of 150 days. So, when you're confident that your doe is pregnant, move forward on your calendar 150 days from the date of mating. The birth will most likely occur on or within a few days of this due date.
Keeping detailed records and supervising the mating process makes predicting due dates accurately much easier.
3. Breeding via Artificial Insemination (AI) Instead
3-1. Use AI for total control of the breeding process.
Artificial insemination is a good option if you don't have any high-quality bucks in your herd and can't find good, affordable ones to rent nearby. Also, AI lets you absolutely ensure a specific bloodline, and leaves less of the process up to nature's whims.
You can hire someone to complete the AI process for you, or buy the necessary equipment to do it yourself.
The necessary AI equipment can cost $500 USD, so factor this in when comparing the cost of hiring someone to do the job for you.
3-2. Buy frozen semen.
Make sure the seller has ample documentation regarding the buck's health history, personality, and family tree. Also confirm that the sample has been recently frozen and is not more than 6 months old. And, if at all possible, spend some time with the buck to get a firsthand impression of his health and temperament.
If you're not using the semen right away, transfer it immediately to your own liquid nitrogen storage tank, according to the tank's instructions.
It's very important that you properly store and handle the semen. It should not be thawed until you are ready to use it. Otherwise, the pregnancy may not take or thrive.
If you want to administer semen from one of your bucks using AI, you can buy an artificial vagina that collects the sample. However, it will only be viable for 2-3 hours.
3-3. Invest in the necessary equipment for frozen-sample AI.
Other than the liquid nitrogen tank (which can cost $400-$450 USD), you'll need a list of supplies both basic and specialized. These include the following:
speculum (25 x 175 mm for doelings or 25 x 200 mm for does); AI light or headlight; sterile lubricant (non-spermicidal)
insemination gun (for “straws” containing frozen semen); straw tweezers; reeding stand or similar means to restrain the doe
thaw box; paper towels; straw cutter; thermometer
3-4. Use AI promptly when the doe goes into heat.
AI is most effective when it occurs as soon as possible after the doe shows signs of being in heat. Use the length of your doe's typical estrus cycle as your guide. If the doe typically goes into heat for:
24 hours or less, do AI as soon as your recognize estrus.
36 hours, complete AI within 12 hours of estrus signs appearing.
48 hours, do AI within 24 hours.
72 hours, do AI within 48 hours.
3-5. Have someone the doe knows do the procedure, if possible.
Artificial insemination tends to be more successful with a calm doe, which often means having a familiar person do the procedure. Therefore, consider doing the procedure yourself, if you feel confident in your abilities.
If not, be present to keep the doe calm while a vet or more experienced goat breeder does the procedure.
3-6. Restrain the doe for insemination.
A dedicated breeding stand is the best option for this process, but other restraining enclosures may serve your purposes. Talk to your supplier for advice on the equipment you have, and purchase a breeding stand if they advise it.
3-7. Thaw the semen and load the insemination gun.
Thawing instructions can vary by producers of the “straws” containing the samples, but generally you'll remove the chosen straw from the liquid nitrogen with straw tweezers, then place the straw in a thaw box with 95 °F (35 °C) water for about 30 seconds.
After this quick thaw, you'll dry the straw off with paper towels and immediately load the insemination gun.
Insemination guns also vary, but usually you'll pull the plunger back several inches/centimeters, add a cotton plug against the plunger, and then load the straw.
3-8. Cut and cover the loaded straw.
The sealed end of the straw should be cut with the included straw cutter. Immediately after, place the included cover sheet and secure it in place with the accompanying O-ring.
3-9. Lubricate and insert the speculum.
Turn on your headlamp or AI light, lubricate the speculum, and clean the doe's vulva with a paper towel. Insert the speculum at an upward angle into the vulva. Locate the cervix visually and center the speculum over the cervix opening.
Identify the cervix by looking for its purple-red color, and the white mucus that will coat and surround it if the doe is in heat.
If the doe refuses to stand up, have an assistant lift her hindquarters for you before trying to insert the speculum.
3-10. Insert the insemination gun and deposit the semen.
The AI gun inserts into the speculum, and from there you'll thread it into the cervix opening. Gently work the gun into the cervix, but don't penetrate more than 1.5 inches (3.8 cm). Slowly depress the plunger to deposit the semen. Then slowly remove the gun and speculum.
For visual reference, draw a ring (with a red marker, for instance) around the AI gun's cover sheath, 1.5 inches (3.8 cm) from the gun's tip.
Carefully record the time and other info into your breeding journal or database.
4. Overseeing Pregnancy and Birthing
4-1. Care for the doe as normal until 6 weeks before the due date.
For most of the pregnancy, the doe can be fed the same amount and types of food and cared for in the same manner as usual. If you've been milking the doe, you can keep up that habit as well.
4-2. Adjust the goat's diet during the last 6 weeks of pregnancy.
As the due date approaches, the doe needs more nutrient-dense food that takes up less space in her increasingly-crowded belly. Over the period of a week or two, reduce the amount of hay you're providing while increasing the amount of grain. The doe should be eating very little hay as the due date draws near.
Consult your vet for guidance on what and how much to feed your goats in general, and how to transition the diet of your pregnant goat.
Your vet may also recommend that you give the pregnant doe mineral supplements.
4-3. Move the doe to a birthing stall 2 weeks before the due date.
Goats can give birth in the field if that's your preference, and any other does or wethers typically won't cause any problems. However, using a dedicated birthing stall makes it easier to observe and assist as the due date approaches.
During these last two weeks, you'll notice that the doe's udder and vulva will begin to swell. The swelling will become even more substantial just before the goat is ready to give birth.
The doe will become restless and agitated, and her back legs will likely start to quiver as the birthing process is about to begin.
4-4. Observe a healthy birth and give minimal assistance.
Normally, the kid will come out nose and front feet first, while possibly still in the protective membrane. It usually takes about 15 minutes for the kid to fully emerge. Use a clean rag or paper towels to make sure the kid's nose and mouth are clear, then let it nurse with its mother.
If the goat is carrying twins or triplets, there will likely be a 15-20 minute pause between births.
In addition to warm water and clean rags, you can find lists of recommended birthing supplies at https://www.britishgoatsociety.com/about-us/breeding/ and https://www.farmingmagazine.com/livestock/goats/breeding-goats/.
4-5. Assist yourself or get help if there are problems.
If the kid seems to be emerging slowly, you can grab onto its exposed front legs and hold them in place (without pulling on them) so they don't retract back in as a contraction ends. The placenta should emerge within an hour, and detach on its own — don't pull on it. If it doesn't appear within an hour or detach within 10 hours, call your veterinarian. Also contact the vet if:
There is significant discharge from the doe's vulva, but birthing doesn't follow soon after.
There has been active labor (with obvious straining) for 30 minutes with no results.
Only the kid's head, front legs, or tail appears.
The kid has a fever over 104 °F (40 °C) and is lethargic or refuses to feed.
The doe's udder is hot and swollen, and the milk is clotted and won't flow easily.
4-6. Provide care for the newborn kid(s) as needed.
If the baby goat or goats were born without incident and are feeding normally, there isn't a great deal that you need to do. Consult with your vet or experienced goat breeders for kid care advice.
Bottle feed kids who aren't effectively feeding with -- or are being neglected by -- their mother. Consult your vet if you need guidance.
For the safety of your herd and yourself, remove a kid's horn buds at about a week of age. Have an expert do this if you are untrained.
Start giving vaccinations at about one month of age, and check kids regularly for fevers (101.5 °F (38.6 °C) is normal) and other health issues.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:58:36",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Timing the Mating Cycle\\n1-1. Plan to breed when the days start getting shorter.\\nUnlike some domesticated animals, goats still tend to breed seasonally. The reduced daylight hours during autumn signal that it's mating season, so that the kids can be born after the oncoming winter.\\nIn the Northern Hemisphere, this means that August to December is “prime time” for goat mating.\\nGoat breeding can happen year-round with the help of hormone treatments and artificial insemination, but usually only larger goat-raising operations resort to these methods.\\n1-2. Determine your buck's mating potential by his age.\\nUncastrated male goats (bucks) are sexually mature by 5 months of age, and sometimes as early as 3-4 months. So, if you want to control the breeding process, keep any bucks over 3 months old separate from your does!\\nA buck that's 6 months to 1 year old can mate with about 10 does per season.\\nA healthy 2 year old buck may be able to mate with 25 does per season.\\nBy 3 years of age, a buck in good health can mate with up to 40 does per season.\\nHowever, just because a buck can mate often doesn't mean it should. Be judicious when deciding how often to breed your goat to ensure the health of the goats and the kids.\\n1-3. Make sure your doe is large enough to manage pregnancy.\\nIn most cases, a doe born in the spring can breed in the fall (at age 4 months or more), so long as she weighs more than 80 pounds (36 kg). However, it's better to wait until the doe is at least 1 year old and more than 100 pounds (45 kg).\\nA larger doe will be better able to carry twins or triplets, so keep this in mind especially if multiple births are common in your goats' pedigrees.\\n1-4. Watch for signs that the doe is in heat.\\nDoes go into heat (or estrus) roughly every 21 days, for stretches of 2-3 days. To recognize estrus, look for indicators such as mucus discharge from the vulva, a swollen vulva, increased bleating, frequent tail wagging, excessive pacing, and an increased interest in any bucks nearby — or even anything that smells like a buck.\\n1-5. Look for changes that indicate the buck is “in rut.”\\nBucks that are eager to mate are said to be “rutting” or “in rut.” The most obvious sign is a pungent odor — during this time bucks will urinate all over themselves, from head to tail. You may also notice more aggressive behavior and demonstrative facial maneuvers, like lip and tongue flapping and blubbering sounds.\\nTo humans, the smell of a buck “in rut” is hard to handle, but it is very appealing to does in heat.\\n1-6. Entice a doe that needs encouragement to go into heat.\\nSome does won't go into heat unless there are bucks in the area. Try putting a “rutting” buck within sight and smell of the doe. This will usually solve the problem quickly.\\nBe careful when placing animals in heat near each other but in separate pens. The goats may injure themselves trying to get to each other. You should supervise them closely and check to make sure the fences are safe and free of defects.\\nAlternatively, you can use a “billy rag.” Rub a cloth over a “rutting” buck, then wave it around the doe and keep the rag in her proximity. The pungent scent is often enough to do the trick.\\n2. Bringing Goats Together for Mating\\n2-1. Rent bucks for convenience and genetic diversity.\\nDoes and wethers (castrated males) are usually easier to care for (and smell better!), so some people choose not to keep any bucks. In this case, you can “rent” a buck from a neighbor, friend, or stud farm when the time is right.\\nLook for bucks with detailed and high-quality pedigrees, and utilize different bucks to increase the genetic diversity of your herd.\\nSome breeders advise strongly against mating bucks and does with substantial size differences, while others have not experienced problems with pregnancy or birthing in these cases. Consult your vet and experienced breeders about specific cases.\\n2-2. Raise your own bucks for greater control over the conditions.\\nIf you raise your own bucks, you know everything about their background, temperament, living conditions, health history, and so on. You also won't have to scramble as much to get the goats together when the time is right.\\nKeep bucks separate from does except during mating times, but don't raise them alone. Goats are social creatures, so it's best to provide one or more wethers as friends if you have just one buck.\\nCaring for a buck can cost $150 USD per year, or roughly the cost of 5 mating rentals (which often run around $30 USD). Use the costs in your area to determine the economic comparison between owning and renting.\\n2-3. Keep detailed records of all elements of your breeding program.\\nCreate a spreadsheet or similar document that details the estrus cycles, mating and birthing history, and any relevant health or behavior issues regarding your does. Likewise, record details on the pedigree, mating numbers and history, and inheritable traits for any bucks you own or rent.\\nGood records can help limit excessive in-breeding. For instance, siblings should not mate, and parent-child mating should be permitted rarely if at all.\\nIn-breeding of less direct relatives can actually be a good thing, so long as you pair up goats with good pedigrees and characteristics, and don't breed ones with undesirable histories or traits.\\n2-4. Set up the “date” and let things happen naturally.\\nPair up your chosen doe in heat and buck “in rut” by putting them together alone in the same enclosure. Often, they will get down to business right away, with the buck mounting the doe several times over a period of about 20 minutes, or perhaps up to an hour.\\nA disinterested doe will run away and fend off the buck. This means the time isn't right and you should try again another time.\\nAn “old farmer's tale” says that you can bet on a successful copulation if the female's back arches during the mounting. But use this pearl of wisdom at your own risk!\\n2-5. Let the chosen mates pasture together for a less controlled process.\\nIf you don't want to set up specific dates and confirm every detail of the mating process, you can use a more free-wheeling approach. Just leave the doe and buck alone together for a few days while the time is right, and they'll almost certainly copulate numerous times.\\nThis method makes predicting a successful impregnation or timing out a due date more challenging, however.\\n2-6. Pay close attention to the doe's next scheduled estrus cycle.\\nRoughly 21 days after mating the doe with the buck, keep an eye out to see if the doe goes into heat again. If she doesn't, this is a very strong indicator that the doe is pregnant. Go ahead and start making plans for the pregnancy and birthing processes.\\nFor even greater certainty, you can have a vet do an ultrasound. But this can be costly and is unnecessary in most cases.\\n2-7. Calculate the likely birth date.\\nGoats have an average gestation cycle of 150 days. So, when you're confident that your doe is pregnant, move forward on your calendar 150 days from the date of mating. The birth will most likely occur on or within a few days of this due date.\\nKeeping detailed records and supervising the mating process makes predicting due dates accurately much easier.\\n3. Breeding via Artificial Insemination (AI) Instead\\n3-1. Use AI for total control of the breeding process.\\nArtificial insemination is a good option if you don't have any high-quality bucks in your herd and can't find good, affordable ones to rent nearby. Also, AI lets you absolutely ensure a specific bloodline, and leaves less of the process up to nature's whims.\\nYou can hire someone to complete the AI process for you, or buy the necessary equipment to do it yourself.\\nThe necessary AI equipment can cost $500 USD, so factor this in when comparing the cost of hiring someone to do the job for you.\\n3-2. Buy frozen semen.\\nMake sure the seller has ample documentation regarding the buck's health history, personality, and family tree. Also confirm that the sample has been recently frozen and is not more than 6 months old. And, if at all possible, spend some time with the buck to get a firsthand impression of his health and temperament.\\nIf you're not using the semen right away, transfer it immediately to your own liquid nitrogen storage tank, according to the tank's instructions.\\nIt's very important that you properly store and handle the semen. It should not be thawed until you are ready to use it. Otherwise, the pregnancy may not take or thrive.\\nIf you want to administer semen from one of your bucks using AI, you can buy an artificial vagina that collects the sample. However, it will only be viable for 2-3 hours.\\n3-3. Invest in the necessary equipment for frozen-sample AI.\\nOther than the liquid nitrogen tank (which can cost $400-$450 USD), you'll need a list of supplies both basic and specialized. These include the following:\\nspeculum (25 x 175 mm for doelings or 25 x 200 mm for does); AI light or headlight; sterile lubricant (non-spermicidal)\\ninsemination gun (for “straws” containing frozen semen); straw tweezers; reeding stand or similar means to restrain the doe\\nthaw box; paper towels; straw cutter; thermometer\\n3-4. Use AI promptly when the doe goes into heat.\\nAI is most effective when it occurs as soon as possible after the doe shows signs of being in heat. Use the length of your doe's typical estrus cycle as your guide. If the doe typically goes into heat for:\\n24 hours or less, do AI as soon as your recognize estrus.\\n36 hours, complete AI within 12 hours of estrus signs appearing.\\n48 hours, do AI within 24 hours.\\n72 hours, do AI within 48 hours.\\n3-5. Have someone the doe knows do the procedure, if possible.\\nArtificial insemination tends to be more successful with a calm doe, which often means having a familiar person do the procedure. Therefore, consider doing the procedure yourself, if you feel confident in your abilities.\\nIf not, be present to keep the doe calm while a vet or more experienced goat breeder does the procedure.\\n3-6. Restrain the doe for insemination.\\nA dedicated breeding stand is the best option for this process, but other restraining enclosures may serve your purposes. Talk to your supplier for advice on the equipment you have, and purchase a breeding stand if they advise it.\\n3-7. Thaw the semen and load the insemination gun.\\nThawing instructions can vary by producers of the “straws” containing the samples, but generally you'll remove the chosen straw from the liquid nitrogen with straw tweezers, then place the straw in a thaw box with 95 °F (35 °C) water for about 30 seconds.\\nAfter this quick thaw, you'll dry the straw off with paper towels and immediately load the insemination gun.\\nInsemination guns also vary, but usually you'll pull the plunger back several inches/centimeters, add a cotton plug against the plunger, and then load the straw.\\n3-8. Cut and cover the loaded straw.\\nThe sealed end of the straw should be cut with the included straw cutter. Immediately after, place the included cover sheet and secure it in place with the accompanying O-ring.\\n3-9. Lubricate and insert the speculum.\\nTurn on your headlamp or AI light, lubricate the speculum, and clean the doe's vulva with a paper towel. Insert the speculum at an upward angle into the vulva. Locate the cervix visually and center the speculum over the cervix opening.\\nIdentify the cervix by looking for its purple-red color, and the white mucus that will coat and surround it if the doe is in heat.\\nIf the doe refuses to stand up, have an assistant lift her hindquarters for you before trying to insert the speculum.\\n3-10. Insert the insemination gun and deposit the semen.\\nThe AI gun inserts into the speculum, and from there you'll thread it into the cervix opening. Gently work the gun into the cervix, but don't penetrate more than 1.5 inches (3.8 cm). Slowly depress the plunger to deposit the semen. Then slowly remove the gun and speculum.\\nFor visual reference, draw a ring (with a red marker, for instance) around the AI gun's cover sheath, 1.5 inches (3.8 cm) from the gun's tip.\\nCarefully record the time and other info into your breeding journal or database.\\n4. Overseeing Pregnancy and Birthing\\n4-1. Care for the doe as normal until 6 weeks before the due date.\\nFor most of the pregnancy, the doe can be fed the same amount and types of food and cared for in the same manner as usual. If you've been milking the doe, you can keep up that habit as well.\\n4-2. Adjust the goat's diet during the last 6 weeks of pregnancy.\\nAs the due date approaches, the doe needs more nutrient-dense food that takes up less space in her increasingly-crowded belly. Over the period of a week or two, reduce the amount of hay you're providing while increasing the amount of grain. The doe should be eating very little hay as the due date draws near.\\nConsult your vet for guidance on what and how much to feed your goats in general, and how to transition the diet of your pregnant goat.\\nYour vet may also recommend that you give the pregnant doe mineral supplements.\\n4-3. Move the doe to a birthing stall 2 weeks before the due date.\\nGoats can give birth in the field if that's your preference, and any other does or wethers typically won't cause any problems. However, using a dedicated birthing stall makes it easier to observe and assist as the due date approaches.\\nDuring these last two weeks, you'll notice that the doe's udder and vulva will begin to swell. The swelling will become even more substantial just before the goat is ready to give birth.\\nThe doe will become restless and agitated, and her back legs will likely start to quiver as the birthing process is about to begin.\\n4-4. Observe a healthy birth and give minimal assistance.\\nNormally, the kid will come out nose and front feet first, while possibly still in the protective membrane. It usually takes about 15 minutes for the kid to fully emerge. Use a clean rag or paper towels to make sure the kid's nose and mouth are clear, then let it nurse with its mother.\\nIf the goat is carrying twins or triplets, there will likely be a 15-20 minute pause between births.\\nIn addition to warm water and clean rags, you can find lists of recommended birthing supplies at https://www.britishgoatsociety.com/about-us/breeding/ and https://www.farmingmagazine.com/livestock/goats/breeding-goats/.\\n4-5. Assist yourself or get help if there are problems.\\nIf the kid seems to be emerging slowly, you can grab onto its exposed front legs and hold them in place (without pulling on them) so they don't retract back in as a contraction ends. The placenta should emerge within an hour, and detach on its own — don't pull on it. If it doesn't appear within an hour or detach within 10 hours, call your veterinarian. Also contact the vet if:\\nThere is significant discharge from the doe's vulva, but birthing doesn't follow soon after.\\nThere has been active labor (with obvious straining) for 30 minutes with no results.\\nOnly the kid's head, front legs, or tail appears.\\nThe kid has a fever over 104 °F (40 °C) and is lethargic or refuses to feed.\\nThe doe's udder is hot and swollen, and the milk is clotted and won't flow easily.\\n4-6. Provide care for the newborn kid(s) as needed.\\nIf the baby goat or goats were born without incident and are feeding normally, there isn't a great deal that you need to do. Consult with your vet or experienced goat breeders for kid care advice.\\n\\nBottle feed kids who aren't effectively feeding with -- or are being neglected by -- their mother. Consult your vet if you need guidance.\\nFor the safety of your herd and yourself, remove a kid's horn buds at about a week of age. Have an expert do this if you are untrained.\\nStart giving vaccinations at about one month of age, and check kids regularly for fevers (101.5 °F (38.6 °C) is normal) and other health issues.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Whether you're raising goats as food sources or furry companions, you may want to breed them to keep your herd growing. If you're content to let nature take its course with minimal interference, you just need to get a buck and a doe together at the right time and let them mate. However, you can also breed goats through artificial insemination if you so choose. By familiarizing yourself with goats' mating cycles, gestation periods, and birthing processes, you can greatly increase your chances of adding healthy kids to your goat herd.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Timing the Mating Cycle\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Plan to breed when the days start getting shorter.\", \"描述\": \"Unlike some domesticated animals, goats still tend to breed seasonally. The reduced daylight hours during autumn signal that it's mating season, so that the kids can be born after the oncoming winter.\\nIn the Northern Hemisphere, this means that August to December is “prime time” for goat mating.\\nGoat breeding can happen year-round with the help of hormone treatments and artificial insemination, but usually only larger goat-raising operations resort to these methods.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Determine your buck's mating potential by his age.\", \"描述\": \"Uncastrated male goats (bucks) are sexually mature by 5 months of age, and sometimes as early as 3-4 months. So, if you want to control the breeding process, keep any bucks over 3 months old separate from your does!\\nA buck that's 6 months to 1 year old can mate with about 10 does per season.\\nA healthy 2 year old buck may be able to mate with 25 does per season.\\nBy 3 years of age, a buck in good health can mate with up to 40 does per season.\\nHowever, just because a buck can mate often doesn't mean it should. Be judicious when deciding how often to breed your goat to ensure the health of the goats and the kids.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Make sure your doe is large enough to manage pregnancy.\", \"描述\": \"In most cases, a doe born in the spring can breed in the fall (at age 4 months or more), so long as she weighs more than 80 pounds (36 kg). However, it's better to wait until the doe is at least 1 year old and more than 100 pounds (45 kg).\\nA larger doe will be better able to carry twins or triplets, so keep this in mind especially if multiple births are common in your goats' pedigrees.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Watch for signs that the doe is in heat.\", \"描述\": \"Does go into heat (or estrus) roughly every 21 days, for stretches of 2-3 days. To recognize estrus, look for indicators such as mucus discharge from the vulva, a swollen vulva, increased bleating, frequent tail wagging, excessive pacing, and an increased interest in any bucks nearby — or even anything that smells like a buck.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Look for changes that indicate the buck is “in rut.”\", \"描述\": \"Bucks that are eager to mate are said to be “rutting” or “in rut.” The most obvious sign is a pungent odor — during this time bucks will urinate all over themselves, from head to tail. You may also notice more aggressive behavior and demonstrative facial maneuvers, like lip and tongue flapping and blubbering sounds.\\nTo humans, the smell of a buck “in rut” is hard to handle, but it is very appealing to does in heat.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Entice a doe that needs encouragement to go into heat.\", \"描述\": \"Some does won't go into heat unless there are bucks in the area. Try putting a “rutting” buck within sight and smell of the doe. This will usually solve the problem quickly.\\nBe careful when placing animals in heat near each other but in separate pens. The goats may injure themselves trying to get to each other. You should supervise them closely and check to make sure the fences are safe and free of defects.\\nAlternatively, you can use a “billy rag.” Rub a cloth over a “rutting” buck, then wave it around the doe and keep the rag in her proximity. The pungent scent is often enough to do the trick.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Bringing Goats Together for Mating\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Rent bucks for convenience and genetic diversity.\", \"描述\": \"Does and wethers (castrated males) are usually easier to care for (and smell better!), so some people choose not to keep any bucks. In this case, you can “rent” a buck from a neighbor, friend, or stud farm when the time is right.\\nLook for bucks with detailed and high-quality pedigrees, and utilize different bucks to increase the genetic diversity of your herd.\\nSome breeders advise strongly against mating bucks and does with substantial size differences, while others have not experienced problems with pregnancy or birthing in these cases. Consult your vet and experienced breeders about specific cases.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Raise your own bucks for greater control over the conditions.\", \"描述\": \"If you raise your own bucks, you know everything about their background, temperament, living conditions, health history, and so on. You also won't have to scramble as much to get the goats together when the time is right.\\nKeep bucks separate from does except during mating times, but don't raise them alone. Goats are social creatures, so it's best to provide one or more wethers as friends if you have just one buck.\\nCaring for a buck can cost $150 USD per year, or roughly the cost of 5 mating rentals (which often run around $30 USD). Use the costs in your area to determine the economic comparison between owning and renting.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Keep detailed records of all elements of your breeding program.\", \"描述\": \"Create a spreadsheet or similar document that details the estrus cycles, mating and birthing history, and any relevant health or behavior issues regarding your does. Likewise, record details on the pedigree, mating numbers and history, and inheritable traits for any bucks you own or rent.\\nGood records can help limit excessive in-breeding. For instance, siblings should not mate, and parent-child mating should be permitted rarely if at all.\\nIn-breeding of less direct relatives can actually be a good thing, so long as you pair up goats with good pedigrees and characteristics, and don't breed ones with undesirable histories or traits.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Set up the “date” and let things happen naturally.\", \"描述\": \"Pair up your chosen doe in heat and buck “in rut” by putting them together alone in the same enclosure. Often, they will get down to business right away, with the buck mounting the doe several times over a period of about 20 minutes, or perhaps up to an hour.\\nA disinterested doe will run away and fend off the buck. This means the time isn't right and you should try again another time.\\nAn “old farmer's tale” says that you can bet on a successful copulation if the female's back arches during the mounting. But use this pearl of wisdom at your own risk!\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Let the chosen mates pasture together for a less controlled process.\", \"描述\": \"If you don't want to set up specific dates and confirm every detail of the mating process, you can use a more free-wheeling approach. Just leave the doe and buck alone together for a few days while the time is right, and they'll almost certainly copulate numerous times.\\nThis method makes predicting a successful impregnation or timing out a due date more challenging, however.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Pay close attention to the doe's next scheduled estrus cycle.\", \"描述\": \"Roughly 21 days after mating the doe with the buck, keep an eye out to see if the doe goes into heat again. If she doesn't, this is a very strong indicator that the doe is pregnant. Go ahead and start making plans for the pregnancy and birthing processes.\\nFor even greater certainty, you can have a vet do an ultrasound. But this can be costly and is unnecessary in most cases.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Calculate the likely birth date.\", \"描述\": \"Goats have an average gestation cycle of 150 days. So, when you're confident that your doe is pregnant, move forward on your calendar 150 days from the date of mating. The birth will most likely occur on or within a few days of this due date.\\nKeeping detailed records and supervising the mating process makes predicting due dates accurately much easier.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Breeding via Artificial Insemination (AI) Instead\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Use AI for total control of the breeding process.\", \"描述\": \"Artificial insemination is a good option if you don't have any high-quality bucks in your herd and can't find good, affordable ones to rent nearby. Also, AI lets you absolutely ensure a specific bloodline, and leaves less of the process up to nature's whims.\\nYou can hire someone to complete the AI process for you, or buy the necessary equipment to do it yourself.\\nThe necessary AI equipment can cost $500 USD, so factor this in when comparing the cost of hiring someone to do the job for you.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Buy frozen semen.\", \"描述\": \"Make sure the seller has ample documentation regarding the buck's health history, personality, and family tree. Also confirm that the sample has been recently frozen and is not more than 6 months old. And, if at all possible, spend some time with the buck to get a firsthand impression of his health and temperament.\\nIf you're not using the semen right away, transfer it immediately to your own liquid nitrogen storage tank, according to the tank's instructions.\\nIt's very important that you properly store and handle the semen. It should not be thawed until you are ready to use it. Otherwise, the pregnancy may not take or thrive.\\nIf you want to administer semen from one of your bucks using AI, you can buy an artificial vagina that collects the sample. However, it will only be viable for 2-3 hours.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Invest in the necessary equipment for frozen-sample AI.\", \"描述\": \"Other than the liquid nitrogen tank (which can cost $400-$450 USD), you'll need a list of supplies both basic and specialized. These include the following:\\nspeculum (25 x 175 mm for doelings or 25 x 200 mm for does); AI light or headlight; sterile lubricant (non-spermicidal)\\ninsemination gun (for “straws” containing frozen semen); straw tweezers; reeding stand or similar means to restrain the doe\\nthaw box; paper towels; straw cutter; thermometer\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Use AI promptly when the doe goes into heat.\", \"描述\": \"AI is most effective when it occurs as soon as possible after the doe shows signs of being in heat. Use the length of your doe's typical estrus cycle as your guide. If the doe typically goes into heat for:\\n24 hours or less, do AI as soon as your recognize estrus.\\n36 hours, complete AI within 12 hours of estrus signs appearing.\\n48 hours, do AI within 24 hours.\\n72 hours, do AI within 48 hours.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Have someone the doe knows do the procedure, if possible.\", \"描述\": \"Artificial insemination tends to be more successful with a calm doe, which often means having a familiar person do the procedure. Therefore, consider doing the procedure yourself, if you feel confident in your abilities.\\nIf not, be present to keep the doe calm while a vet or more experienced goat breeder does the procedure.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Restrain the doe for insemination.\", \"描述\": \"A dedicated breeding stand is the best option for this process, but other restraining enclosures may serve your purposes. Talk to your supplier for advice on the equipment you have, and purchase a breeding stand if they advise it.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Thaw the semen and load the insemination gun.\", \"描述\": \"Thawing instructions can vary by producers of the “straws” containing the samples, but generally you'll remove the chosen straw from the liquid nitrogen with straw tweezers, then place the straw in a thaw box with 95 °F (35 °C) water for about 30 seconds.\\nAfter this quick thaw, you'll dry the straw off with paper towels and immediately load the insemination gun.\\nInsemination guns also vary, but usually you'll pull the plunger back several inches/centimeters, add a cotton plug against the plunger, and then load the straw.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Cut and cover the loaded straw.\", \"描述\": \"The sealed end of the straw should be cut with the included straw cutter. Immediately after, place the included cover sheet and secure it in place with the accompanying O-ring.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Lubricate and insert the speculum.\", \"描述\": \"Turn on your headlamp or AI light, lubricate the speculum, and clean the doe's vulva with a paper towel. Insert the speculum at an upward angle into the vulva. Locate the cervix visually and center the speculum over the cervix opening.\\nIdentify the cervix by looking for its purple-red color, and the white mucus that will coat and surround it if the doe is in heat.\\nIf the doe refuses to stand up, have an assistant lift her hindquarters for you before trying to insert the speculum.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Insert the insemination gun and deposit the semen.\", \"描述\": \"The AI gun inserts into the speculum, and from there you'll thread it into the cervix opening. Gently work the gun into the cervix, but don't penetrate more than 1.5 inches (3.8 cm). Slowly depress the plunger to deposit the semen. Then slowly remove the gun and speculum.\\nFor visual reference, draw a ring (with a red marker, for instance) around the AI gun's cover sheath, 1.5 inches (3.8 cm) from the gun's tip.\\nCarefully record the time and other info into your breeding journal or database.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Overseeing Pregnancy and Birthing\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Care for the doe as normal until 6 weeks before the due date.\", \"描述\": \"For most of the pregnancy, the doe can be fed the same amount and types of food and cared for in the same manner as usual. If you've been milking the doe, you can keep up that habit as well.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Adjust the goat's diet during the last 6 weeks of pregnancy.\", \"描述\": \"As the due date approaches, the doe needs more nutrient-dense food that takes up less space in her increasingly-crowded belly. Over the period of a week or two, reduce the amount of hay you're providing while increasing the amount of grain. The doe should be eating very little hay as the due date draws near.\\nConsult your vet for guidance on what and how much to feed your goats in general, and how to transition the diet of your pregnant goat.\\nYour vet may also recommend that you give the pregnant doe mineral supplements.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Move the doe to a birthing stall 2 weeks before the due date.\", \"描述\": \"Goats can give birth in the field if that's your preference, and any other does or wethers typically won't cause any problems. However, using a dedicated birthing stall makes it easier to observe and assist as the due date approaches.\\nDuring these last two weeks, you'll notice that the doe's udder and vulva will begin to swell. The swelling will become even more substantial just before the goat is ready to give birth.\\nThe doe will become restless and agitated, and her back legs will likely start to quiver as the birthing process is about to begin.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Observe a healthy birth and give minimal assistance.\", \"描述\": \"Normally, the kid will come out nose and front feet first, while possibly still in the protective membrane. It usually takes about 15 minutes for the kid to fully emerge. Use a clean rag or paper towels to make sure the kid's nose and mouth are clear, then let it nurse with its mother.\\nIf the goat is carrying twins or triplets, there will likely be a 15-20 minute pause between births.\\nIn addition to warm water and clean rags, you can find lists of recommended birthing supplies at https://www.britishgoatsociety.com/about-us/breeding/ and https://www.farmingmagazine.com/livestock/goats/breeding-goats/.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Assist yourself or get help if there are problems.\", \"描述\": \"If the kid seems to be emerging slowly, you can grab onto its exposed front legs and hold them in place (without pulling on them) so they don't retract back in as a contraction ends. The placenta should emerge within an hour, and detach on its own — don't pull on it. If it doesn't appear within an hour or detach within 10 hours, call your veterinarian. Also contact the vet if:\\nThere is significant discharge from the doe's vulva, but birthing doesn't follow soon after.\\nThere has been active labor (with obvious straining) for 30 minutes with no results.\\nOnly the kid's head, front legs, or tail appears.\\nThe kid has a fever over 104 °F (40 °C) and is lethargic or refuses to feed.\\nThe doe's udder is hot and swollen, and the milk is clotted and won't flow easily.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Provide care for the newborn kid(s) as needed.\", \"描述\": \"If the baby goat or goats were born without incident and are feeding normally, there isn't a great deal that you need to do. Consult with your vet or experienced goat breeders for kid care advice.\\n\\nBottle feed kids who aren't effectively feeding with -- or are being neglected by -- their mother. Consult your vet if you need guidance.\\nFor the safety of your herd and yourself, remove a kid's horn buds at about a week of age. Have an expert do this if you are untrained.\\nStart giving vaccinations at about one month of age, and check kids regularly for fevers (101.5 °F (38.6 °C) is normal) and other health issues.\"}]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
6,927 |
How to Breed Goldfish
|
1. Setting the Right Conditions for Breeding
1-1. Plan far enough in advance.
It takes a long time to create the right environment for mating. Buy your fish nearly a year in advance. July and August are the best months to purchase your fish, as goldfish like to breed during the Spring. You'll want your goldfish to be properly adjusted to their habitat and de-stressed before breeding season, so try to plan far enough in advance!
The first thing you want to do (assuming you already have a smaller tank that can hold at least 4 gallons or 15 liters) is to clean your newly purchased breeders. By adding 80 eye drops of Formaldehyde, 6 drops of Copper Sulphate and just 1 small measure of Terramycin, you will be able to clean the goldfish and the tank to keep all healthy.
1-2. Create the right tank environment.
The tank you plan to breed them in should hold at least 20 gallons (75.7 liters) of water. Additionally, add the necessary props for a natural-looking goldfish habitat. This normally includes natural or artificial bushy plants or fertile, sprawling fibers.
When females lay their eggs, they usually anchor them to something solid. If you're going to let them breed naturally, you'll definitely want a lush environment. If you're going to breed them artificially, no plants are necessary, although they do improve quality of life (and act as a great water filter) when the fish are not breeding.
Consider investing in spawning mops. Spawning mops are made of floating nylon string into which females send their eggs. You don't need spawning mops if you have plenty of brush, plants, or other fibrous material, but they're an easy, efficient way of safeguarding your goldfish eggs, as grown-up goldfish tend to eat any unsecured eggs.
1-3. Start improving the diet of your goldfish.
Without abruptly changing the diet of your goldfish, start introducing non-pellet food, such as brine shrimp or live black worms, into their tanks. This simulates the natural bounty of springtime when goldfish like to breed. A couple of pointers on feeding your goldfish in general:
Feed your goldfish in small amounts but often. Feed them three times a day, being careful not to overfeed them. Many goldfish owners make the mistake of feeding their fish too much; the leftover scraps remain uneaten, sink to the bottom of the tank, decomposing and spoiling the water.
No matter what you feed them, make sure you crumple it up small enough to fit in their mouths.
1-4. Simulate spring by dropping the temperature, then making it gradually warmer.
Goldfish breed in the spring, so you want to replicate the heating up of the water. To do this, first, drop the temperature to between 10°C (50°F) and 12°C (54°F). Then, when you're ready to breed, raise the temperature by 2°C (3°F) per day, until the temperature is between 20°C (68°F) and 23°C (74°F).
1-5. Make sure you're cycling out water every day.
A partial water change is important to the general wellbeing of your fish and in stimulating breeding conditions specifically. Remove as much as 20% of the water in your tank daily, being sure not to exceed this amount.
Remember to add water conditioner to the water that you cycle into the tank. Conditioners neutralize chemicals harmful to your fish, as well as remove chlorine and counteract chloramines.
2. Sexing and Isolating Your Goldfish
2-1. Know what a female goldfish tends to look like.
Sexing your goldfish is probably the single most important task in breeding; obviously, if you put a bunch of males together because you can't tell them apart, you're not going to end up with any progeny. Here's what females tend to look like:
Look at the shape of their vent. The vent is a small opening between the anus and the anal fin where fish excrete egg or sperm, depending on the sex. Female vents are rounded and convex, like an outie.
Feel the abdomen. The abdomen, between the pelvic and anal fins, is very soft and movable for females.
Look at the pectoral fins. The pectoral fins of females are round and short.
Overall, female goldfish tend to be a bit smaller and rounder than male goldfish, who tend to be longer and pointier. This, however, is a less reliable way to tell the two apart.
2-2. Know what a male goldfish tends to look like.
Male goldfish tend to be a bit smaller than their female counterparts. They can also be distinguished by looking at the following traits:
The presence of small white stars, or tubercles. Tubercles are little bumps that appear on the fins, head, and even gills of males when they're ready to breed.
A concave, or innie, vent. Males have a vent that slices inward instead of bulges outward.
Feel the abdomen. The abdomens of males are much more rigid and hard than those of females.
Look at the pectoral fins. The pectoral fins of males are pointier and longer compared to the short, round pectoral fins of the females.
2-3. Look at the behavior of goldfish to tell apart males and females.
During breeding season, males start chasing around females, sluggishly at first but with increasing fervor. Introduce a known female into the tank and look for the reaction of the other fish: Males will show a lot of interest, whereas females will show none!
2-4. Consider isolating males and females for a couple weeks before breeding.
Many breeders separate males and females at least a few weeks before breeding in order to create a greater desire to breed. Just like with humans, absence makes the heart grow fonder!
3. Breeding Your Goldfish
3-1. Choose your best breeders.
Young robust goldfish are ideal because of their high fertility and sex-drive. For a female goldfish, look for ones with large rear and pectoral areas; for males, find a large mate (approximately anywhere from 4 to 6 inches) that is also a fast swimmer. Males with many small tubercles behind their heads on their gills is a sign of an ideal mate.
For an ideal mix of breeders, try to isolate your three best male and two best female goldfish.
3-2. Introduce the five goldfish into the same tank and look for natural spawning.
You will notice that the male goldfish will bear a lighter tint around their stomach area and be swimming swiftly around the tank, typically chasing the females. The female will drop the eggs over one of the plants, once the male goldfish will distribute sperm over the eggs to fertilize them. If you miss the moment of procreation but see eggs in the plants, they have likely been fertilized.
3-3. Artificially inseminate, if natural spawning proves unsuccessful.
Introduce one male and one female together in a shallow tank. Gently hold the male goldfish and lightly rub his vent, clearing it of sperm. Swirl the sperm in the water and repeat the same process with the vent of the female, releasing her eggs. Swirl the water again to combine the sperm and the eggs.
Be very ginger with artificial insemination. Your goldfish can bruise easily, so apply very light pressure when clearing their vents.
You don't have to keep your goldfish underwater as you squeeze their vents. Goldfish, like other fish, can breathe outside of water, although not as well. Just be sure to keep them out of water for no more than 30 seconds at a time.
3-4. Separate your breeders from your eggs.
Unfortunately, goldfish in captivity have a tendency to eat nearly all their eggs. This makes it necessary to separate the parents from their eggs almost immediately to ensure a full batch of eggs is hatched successfully. Fertilized eggs should hatch within 4 to 7 days, depending on the temperature of the water.
When the eggs finally do hatch soon after they are fertilized, you can feed them the same food that you feed the adults. Just make sure that they are in even smaller bites than the adult food so their smaller mouths and throats are capable of ingestion.
Try to keep the eggs in the same water they were bred in. Transplant only at your own risk.
3-5. Be patient while your fish develop and reach maturity.
Soon you will have a whole litter of young goldfish swimming around your tank. Make sure the tank is big enough to accommodate all the young goldfish fry.
Warnings
Do not handle the goldfish unless it is necessary. Handling them can cause not only stress, but can damage their scales.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:58:36",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Setting the Right Conditions for Breeding\\n1-1. Plan far enough in advance.\\nIt takes a long time to create the right environment for mating. Buy your fish nearly a year in advance. July and August are the best months to purchase your fish, as goldfish like to breed during the Spring. You'll want your goldfish to be properly adjusted to their habitat and de-stressed before breeding season, so try to plan far enough in advance!\\nThe first thing you want to do (assuming you already have a smaller tank that can hold at least 4 gallons or 15 liters) is to clean your newly purchased breeders. By adding 80 eye drops of Formaldehyde, 6 drops of Copper Sulphate and just 1 small measure of Terramycin, you will be able to clean the goldfish and the tank to keep all healthy.\\n1-2. Create the right tank environment.\\nThe tank you plan to breed them in should hold at least 20 gallons (75.7 liters) of water. Additionally, add the necessary props for a natural-looking goldfish habitat. This normally includes natural or artificial bushy plants or fertile, sprawling fibers.\\nWhen females lay their eggs, they usually anchor them to something solid. If you're going to let them breed naturally, you'll definitely want a lush environment. If you're going to breed them artificially, no plants are necessary, although they do improve quality of life (and act as a great water filter) when the fish are not breeding.\\nConsider investing in spawning mops. Spawning mops are made of floating nylon string into which females send their eggs. You don't need spawning mops if you have plenty of brush, plants, or other fibrous material, but they're an easy, efficient way of safeguarding your goldfish eggs, as grown-up goldfish tend to eat any unsecured eggs.\\n1-3. Start improving the diet of your goldfish.\\nWithout abruptly changing the diet of your goldfish, start introducing non-pellet food, such as brine shrimp or live black worms, into their tanks. This simulates the natural bounty of springtime when goldfish like to breed. A couple of pointers on feeding your goldfish in general:\\nFeed your goldfish in small amounts but often. Feed them three times a day, being careful not to overfeed them. Many goldfish owners make the mistake of feeding their fish too much; the leftover scraps remain uneaten, sink to the bottom of the tank, decomposing and spoiling the water.\\nNo matter what you feed them, make sure you crumple it up small enough to fit in their mouths.\\n1-4. Simulate spring by dropping the temperature, then making it gradually warmer.\\nGoldfish breed in the spring, so you want to replicate the heating up of the water. To do this, first, drop the temperature to between 10°C (50°F) and 12°C (54°F). Then, when you're ready to breed, raise the temperature by 2°C (3°F) per day, until the temperature is between 20°C (68°F) and 23°C (74°F).\\n1-5. Make sure you're cycling out water every day.\\nA partial water change is important to the general wellbeing of your fish and in stimulating breeding conditions specifically. Remove as much as 20% of the water in your tank daily, being sure not to exceed this amount.\\nRemember to add water conditioner to the water that you cycle into the tank. Conditioners neutralize chemicals harmful to your fish, as well as remove chlorine and counteract chloramines.\\n2. Sexing and Isolating Your Goldfish\\n2-1. Know what a female goldfish tends to look like.\\nSexing your goldfish is probably the single most important task in breeding; obviously, if you put a bunch of males together because you can't tell them apart, you're not going to end up with any progeny. Here's what females tend to look like:\\nLook at the shape of their vent. The vent is a small opening between the anus and the anal fin where fish excrete egg or sperm, depending on the sex. Female vents are rounded and convex, like an outie.\\nFeel the abdomen. The abdomen, between the pelvic and anal fins, is very soft and movable for females.\\nLook at the pectoral fins. The pectoral fins of females are round and short.\\nOverall, female goldfish tend to be a bit smaller and rounder than male goldfish, who tend to be longer and pointier. This, however, is a less reliable way to tell the two apart.\\n2-2. Know what a male goldfish tends to look like.\\nMale goldfish tend to be a bit smaller than their female counterparts. They can also be distinguished by looking at the following traits:\\nThe presence of small white stars, or tubercles. Tubercles are little bumps that appear on the fins, head, and even gills of males when they're ready to breed.\\nA concave, or innie, vent. Males have a vent that slices inward instead of bulges outward.\\nFeel the abdomen. The abdomens of males are much more rigid and hard than those of females.\\nLook at the pectoral fins. The pectoral fins of males are pointier and longer compared to the short, round pectoral fins of the females.\\n2-3. Look at the behavior of goldfish to tell apart males and females.\\nDuring breeding season, males start chasing around females, sluggishly at first but with increasing fervor. Introduce a known female into the tank and look for the reaction of the other fish: Males will show a lot of interest, whereas females will show none!\\n2-4. Consider isolating males and females for a couple weeks before breeding.\\nMany breeders separate males and females at least a few weeks before breeding in order to create a greater desire to breed. Just like with humans, absence makes the heart grow fonder!\\n3. Breeding Your Goldfish\\n3-1. Choose your best breeders.\\nYoung robust goldfish are ideal because of their high fertility and sex-drive. For a female goldfish, look for ones with large rear and pectoral areas; for males, find a large mate (approximately anywhere from 4 to 6 inches) that is also a fast swimmer. Males with many small tubercles behind their heads on their gills is a sign of an ideal mate.\\nFor an ideal mix of breeders, try to isolate your three best male and two best female goldfish.\\n3-2. Introduce the five goldfish into the same tank and look for natural spawning.\\nYou will notice that the male goldfish will bear a lighter tint around their stomach area and be swimming swiftly around the tank, typically chasing the females. The female will drop the eggs over one of the plants, once the male goldfish will distribute sperm over the eggs to fertilize them. If you miss the moment of procreation but see eggs in the plants, they have likely been fertilized.\\n3-3. Artificially inseminate, if natural spawning proves unsuccessful.\\nIntroduce one male and one female together in a shallow tank. Gently hold the male goldfish and lightly rub his vent, clearing it of sperm. Swirl the sperm in the water and repeat the same process with the vent of the female, releasing her eggs. Swirl the water again to combine the sperm and the eggs.\\nBe very ginger with artificial insemination. Your goldfish can bruise easily, so apply very light pressure when clearing their vents.\\nYou don't have to keep your goldfish underwater as you squeeze their vents. Goldfish, like other fish, can breathe outside of water, although not as well. Just be sure to keep them out of water for no more than 30 seconds at a time.\\n3-4. Separate your breeders from your eggs.\\nUnfortunately, goldfish in captivity have a tendency to eat nearly all their eggs. This makes it necessary to separate the parents from their eggs almost immediately to ensure a full batch of eggs is hatched successfully. Fertilized eggs should hatch within 4 to 7 days, depending on the temperature of the water.\\nWhen the eggs finally do hatch soon after they are fertilized, you can feed them the same food that you feed the adults. Just make sure that they are in even smaller bites than the adult food so their smaller mouths and throats are capable of ingestion.\\nTry to keep the eggs in the same water they were bred in. Transplant only at your own risk.\\n3-5. Be patient while your fish develop and reach maturity.\\nSoon you will have a whole litter of young goldfish swimming around your tank. Make sure the tank is big enough to accommodate all the young goldfish fry.\\nWarnings\\nDo not handle the goldfish unless it is necessary. Handling them can cause not only stress, but can damage their scales.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Breeding goldfish is not as easy as it sounds. Creating the right environment for your goldfish, finding fertile mates, encouraging procreation and ensuring the correct incubation and birth of eggs are all essential steps in breeding goldfish. It can be time consuming and expensive, so it's difficult to turn a profit on such ventures. However, if done correctly you may just surprise yourself. Like many tasks, the key is attention to detail and patience.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Setting the Right Conditions for Breeding\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Plan far enough in advance.\", \"描述\": \"It takes a long time to create the right environment for mating. Buy your fish nearly a year in advance. July and August are the best months to purchase your fish, as goldfish like to breed during the Spring. You'll want your goldfish to be properly adjusted to their habitat and de-stressed before breeding season, so try to plan far enough in advance!\\nThe first thing you want to do (assuming you already have a smaller tank that can hold at least 4 gallons or 15 liters) is to clean your newly purchased breeders. By adding 80 eye drops of Formaldehyde, 6 drops of Copper Sulphate and just 1 small measure of Terramycin, you will be able to clean the goldfish and the tank to keep all healthy.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Create the right tank environment.\", \"描述\": \"The tank you plan to breed them in should hold at least 20 gallons (75.7 liters) of water. Additionally, add the necessary props for a natural-looking goldfish habitat. This normally includes natural or artificial bushy plants or fertile, sprawling fibers.\\nWhen females lay their eggs, they usually anchor them to something solid. If you're going to let them breed naturally, you'll definitely want a lush environment. If you're going to breed them artificially, no plants are necessary, although they do improve quality of life (and act as a great water filter) when the fish are not breeding.\\nConsider investing in spawning mops. Spawning mops are made of floating nylon string into which females send their eggs. You don't need spawning mops if you have plenty of brush, plants, or other fibrous material, but they're an easy, efficient way of safeguarding your goldfish eggs, as grown-up goldfish tend to eat any unsecured eggs.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Start improving the diet of your goldfish.\", \"描述\": \"Without abruptly changing the diet of your goldfish, start introducing non-pellet food, such as brine shrimp or live black worms, into their tanks. This simulates the natural bounty of springtime when goldfish like to breed. A couple of pointers on feeding your goldfish in general:\\nFeed your goldfish in small amounts but often. Feed them three times a day, being careful not to overfeed them. Many goldfish owners make the mistake of feeding their fish too much; the leftover scraps remain uneaten, sink to the bottom of the tank, decomposing and spoiling the water.\\nNo matter what you feed them, make sure you crumple it up small enough to fit in their mouths.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Simulate spring by dropping the temperature, then making it gradually warmer.\", \"描述\": \"Goldfish breed in the spring, so you want to replicate the heating up of the water. To do this, first, drop the temperature to between 10°C (50°F) and 12°C (54°F). Then, when you're ready to breed, raise the temperature by 2°C (3°F) per day, until the temperature is between 20°C (68°F) and 23°C (74°F).\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Make sure you're cycling out water every day.\", \"描述\": \"A partial water change is important to the general wellbeing of your fish and in stimulating breeding conditions specifically. Remove as much as 20% of the water in your tank daily, being sure not to exceed this amount.\\nRemember to add water conditioner to the water that you cycle into the tank. Conditioners neutralize chemicals harmful to your fish, as well as remove chlorine and counteract chloramines.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Sexing and Isolating Your Goldfish\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Know what a female goldfish tends to look like.\", \"描述\": \"Sexing your goldfish is probably the single most important task in breeding; obviously, if you put a bunch of males together because you can't tell them apart, you're not going to end up with any progeny. Here's what females tend to look like:\\nLook at the shape of their vent. The vent is a small opening between the anus and the anal fin where fish excrete egg or sperm, depending on the sex. Female vents are rounded and convex, like an outie.\\nFeel the abdomen. The abdomen, between the pelvic and anal fins, is very soft and movable for females.\\nLook at the pectoral fins. The pectoral fins of females are round and short.\\nOverall, female goldfish tend to be a bit smaller and rounder than male goldfish, who tend to be longer and pointier. This, however, is a less reliable way to tell the two apart.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Know what a male goldfish tends to look like.\", \"描述\": \"Male goldfish tend to be a bit smaller than their female counterparts. They can also be distinguished by looking at the following traits:\\nThe presence of small white stars, or tubercles. Tubercles are little bumps that appear on the fins, head, and even gills of males when they're ready to breed.\\nA concave, or innie, vent. Males have a vent that slices inward instead of bulges outward.\\nFeel the abdomen. The abdomens of males are much more rigid and hard than those of females.\\nLook at the pectoral fins. The pectoral fins of males are pointier and longer compared to the short, round pectoral fins of the females.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Look at the behavior of goldfish to tell apart males and females.\", \"描述\": \"During breeding season, males start chasing around females, sluggishly at first but with increasing fervor. Introduce a known female into the tank and look for the reaction of the other fish: Males will show a lot of interest, whereas females will show none!\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Consider isolating males and females for a couple weeks before breeding.\", \"描述\": \"Many breeders separate males and females at least a few weeks before breeding in order to create a greater desire to breed. Just like with humans, absence makes the heart grow fonder!\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Breeding Your Goldfish\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Choose your best breeders.\", \"描述\": \"Young robust goldfish are ideal because of their high fertility and sex-drive. For a female goldfish, look for ones with large rear and pectoral areas; for males, find a large mate (approximately anywhere from 4 to 6 inches) that is also a fast swimmer. Males with many small tubercles behind their heads on their gills is a sign of an ideal mate.\\nFor an ideal mix of breeders, try to isolate your three best male and two best female goldfish.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Introduce the five goldfish into the same tank and look for natural spawning.\", \"描述\": \"You will notice that the male goldfish will bear a lighter tint around their stomach area and be swimming swiftly around the tank, typically chasing the females. The female will drop the eggs over one of the plants, once the male goldfish will distribute sperm over the eggs to fertilize them. If you miss the moment of procreation but see eggs in the plants, they have likely been fertilized.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Artificially inseminate, if natural spawning proves unsuccessful.\", \"描述\": \"Introduce one male and one female together in a shallow tank. Gently hold the male goldfish and lightly rub his vent, clearing it of sperm. Swirl the sperm in the water and repeat the same process with the vent of the female, releasing her eggs. Swirl the water again to combine the sperm and the eggs.\\nBe very ginger with artificial insemination. Your goldfish can bruise easily, so apply very light pressure when clearing their vents.\\nYou don't have to keep your goldfish underwater as you squeeze their vents. Goldfish, like other fish, can breathe outside of water, although not as well. Just be sure to keep them out of water for no more than 30 seconds at a time.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Separate your breeders from your eggs.\", \"描述\": \"Unfortunately, goldfish in captivity have a tendency to eat nearly all their eggs. This makes it necessary to separate the parents from their eggs almost immediately to ensure a full batch of eggs is hatched successfully. Fertilized eggs should hatch within 4 to 7 days, depending on the temperature of the water.\\nWhen the eggs finally do hatch soon after they are fertilized, you can feed them the same food that you feed the adults. Just make sure that they are in even smaller bites than the adult food so their smaller mouths and throats are capable of ingestion.\\nTry to keep the eggs in the same water they were bred in. Transplant only at your own risk.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Be patient while your fish develop and reach maturity.\", \"描述\": \"Soon you will have a whole litter of young goldfish swimming around your tank. Make sure the tank is big enough to accommodate all the young goldfish fry.\"}], \"注意事项\": [\"Do not handle the goldfish unless it is necessary. Handling them can cause not only stress, but can damage their scales.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
6,928 |
How to Breed Gouramis
|
1. Identifying a Breeding Pair
1-1. Identify your gourami species (recommended).
The term gourami refers to an entire family of fish, including over 90 species. While many of the gourami species and varieties popular among aquarium hobbyists can be bred in the same conditions, this does not apply to every species. Ask an experienced fish breeder or biologist to examine your gouramis if you do not remember the name they were sold under.
This guide is accurate for dwarf gouramis, pearl gouramis, kissing gouramis, blue (three spot) gouramis, and honey gouramis. Note that kissing gouramis may be more difficult to breed than the others, and require a larger tank.
True gouramis and chocolate gouramis are especially difficult to care for and breed, and the process is not covered in this article. The chocolate gourami, and some other species, care for the eggs in a parent's mouth.
If your gouramis do not belong to the species listed above, or if you are not certain of the species, you may still use this guide, but you may have a lower success rate or encounter unexpected difficulties.
1-2. Feed the gouramis live or frozen food.
Animal food such as blood worms, mosquito larvae, and adult brine shrimp provide adult fish with the nutrients necessary for breeding. You can purchase this in live or frozen form from an aquarium store. Supplement the dry food diet with this food several times a week.
Gathering this type of food on your own increases the risk of passing on diseases to your fish, and is not recommended without the advice of a local expert.
1-3. Watch the fish change size and color.
Adult, female gouramis may swell or change color on their underside, as they produce eggs within their bodies. Male gouramis may become more brightly colored if their diet improves, an indicator of good health and suitability for breeding. Try to find one male and one female that display these characteristics, and have no visible defects.
It may be easier to notice the change in size looking down from above.
1-4. Identify the sex of the adult fish.
If the females have noticeably changed shape as they laid eggs, or became "gravid," you may already know which gouramis are female and which are male. Some are relatively easy to identify at any point due to coloration differences. If these methods of identification are not sufficient, try the following methods:
In some gourami species, females have a more rounded dorsal and anal fin (along the spine and near the anus), while the males have a more pointed one.
Kissing gourami are difficult to identify by appearance. However, if two of the gourami are "kissing," they likely belong to the same sex, and are fighting for dominance.
If all your fish seem "swollen," try withholding their food for three or four days. Overweight males may slim down during this time, while egg bearing females probably will not.
2. Setting up a Breeding Tank
2-1. Select a tank of the appropriate size.
For most gourami pairs, select a tank that can hold 10–20 gallons (40–80 liters) of water up to a six inches (15 cm) water level. This relatively small size and shallow water level actually encourages breeding and fry health, but it is not suitable for all species. Here are a few notable exceptions:
Kissing gourami will only spawn in a large tank, at least 24 inches (60 cm) deep and at least 36 inches (91 cm) long.
Pearl gourami can be bred in a tank with this water depth, but the tank should be at least 31 inches (80 cm) long.
Blue, or three-spot, gourami can be bred in this tank size, but a somewhat larger tank will work as well. A larger tank may minimize stress and injury to the female.
Species that grow more than 10 inches (25 cm) long, including the true gourami and giant gourami, may require much larger tanks. Consult an expert before attempting to breed these species, with the exception of the kissing gourami described above.
2-2. Add gravel and anchored plants.
Start by adding a thin layer of gravel at the bottom. Use this to anchor several plants, large enough for the female to hide behind if the male becomes aggressive. Leave some open area as well.
Upturned clay pots and other common aquarium additions can also be added to create hiding spots.
If putting rocks in the tank, be sure these are bought from an aquarium store, as rocks gathered in lakes and rivers may alter the pH of the water.
2-3. Add floating plants or objects.
Some species, such as the pearl gourami, create a "bubble nest" for the eggs on the underside of a floating plant. You may use actual floating plants, or cut a Styrofoam cup in half lengthwise and float it on the surface of the water. For species that do not build bubble nests, such as kissing gourami, you may wish to float a piece of lettuce instead, which will provide nutrients for the newly hatched fry.
Do not cover more than 1/3 of the water surface, as gouramis need to take oxygen directly from the air as well as the water.
2-4. Put a cover on the aquarium.
Protect the air above the water level from cold drafts by attaching a lid to the aquarium. Make sure there is air between the lid and the water level, and that the lid contains holes to allow the passage of some air.
While this is not necessary for adult gourami, young fry are highly susceptible to air temperature changes, and could die if the air becomes too cold.
2-5. Use a sponge filter.
Never use a filter or air stone that creates a current in a breeding tank, as the current can destroy eggs and young fry. Adults may not be willing to lay eggs unless the water is completely still.
2-6. Adjust the temperature, pH, and nitrites if necessary.
Use an aquarium test kit to monitor these attributes of the tank water for several days, before any fish are introduced. Prepare the tank with a "fishless cycle" to keep toxic nitrites and nitrates out of the water. Heat the tank to around 77–82ºF (25–28ºC), and adjust the pH to between 6.6 and 7.5. Lower pH by adding soft water, such as reverse osmosis water, and raise it by adding crushed limestone, coral, or other carbonate materials.
Do not transfer fish between tanks with different temperatures. Instead, gradually increase the temperature of the tank after the breeding fish have been introduced.
The temperature and pH ranges given here are a narrow band suitable for all the common gourami species mentioned at the beginning of this guide. If you have identified your gourami species, you may be able to search online for a broader range of acceptable conditions for that species.
3. Breeding the Adult Gourami
3-1. Introduce the female to the breeding tank first.
Move the female gourami you have selected to breed into the breeding tank first. This gives the female fish time to locate hiding spots and acclimatize to the tank.
3-2. Introduce the male.
After at least an hour, or up to a full day, introduce the male to the tank. Watch the behavior of the two fish, making sure the female has enough hiding places to remain alone for part of the day.
The male may cause minor bruising or scrapes on the female while chasing her. If the female sustains more serious injuries, or is being harassed around the clock, consider adding a second female to divide the male's attention.
3-3. Wait for the fish to mate.
It may be several days before the gourami pair mates. While the exact nature of the mating ritual, amplexus, and/or spawning varies by species, it typically takes several hours. Look for the following signs if you are trying to catch the fish in the act:
In many gourami species, the male will create a nest of bubbles before mating occurs. This nest may be in a corner of a tank, or on the underside of a floating object.
The two fish may "dance" around each other, eventually touching and wriggling against each other. In some species, they will latch together and one will roll onto its back.
As the female lays eggs (usually hundreds or thousands), the male may pick these up in his mouth and move them to the bubble nest. In species that do not construct bubble nests, the eggs are typically strewn around into the water.
3-4. Know when to remove the parents.
The adult female gourami should be moved back to the original tank directly after spawning, or she may eat the eggs. If the male constructed a "bubble nest," he will likely continue to care for the young until the fry become free-swimming, after which he should be removed as well. For species that do not construct a nest, such as kissing gourami, remove the parents immediately after spawning.
The male may not eat much or at all while he is caring for the eggs. Pay attention to his eating habits and reduce the amount of food if necessary to avoid making the water dirty.
4. Caring for the Fry
4-1. Let the fry eat the egg yolk after hatching.
Fry typically hatch within 30 hours of spawning, often within the first 24 hours for some species. If they were laid in bubble nests, the fry usually stay attached to their place of hatching for two or three days, as they consume the yolk of their egg sac. After eating the yolk from their own eggs, the fry will become free swimming, moving around the tank, and will need to be fed according to the instructions below.
4-2. Feed the fry specialized food.
The newly hatched fry are too small to eat most types of food. Suitable foods, which may be available at an aquarium store, include liquid fish food, rotifers, infusoria, or hard boiled egg yolk pushed through cheesecloth. Try to feed them as often as you can manage, six times a day or more.
Infusoria can be grown at home by keeping a small piece of lettuce or potato in a jar of water in a sunny area. After a few days, the water should turn cloudy, then clear, and can then be fed to the fry in small amounts.
4-3. Use baby brine shrimp once the fry are larger.
Dwarf gourami, honey gourami, and other species whose adults are less than 5 inches (13 cm) in length produce fry that are too small to eat larger food for seven or eight days after hatching. Larger species may be able to eat baby brine shrimp after about four days. Once the fry have reached this stage, feed them baby brine shrimp to give them the protein needed for growth.
4-4. Keep the water clean.
Continue to conduct partial water changes as you would in a normal tank, and siphon off material collecting on the bottom of the tank. Because the fry are easily sucked into the siphon, give the bucket of removed water some time to settle so you can find and transfer any fry back into the tank.
4-5. Make a plan for your fry before they grow too large.
Gourami typically produce hundreds or thousands of eggs, and while it's unlikely that all of them will survive, you will often end up with more fry than can fit in your tank. Find someone who will buy your fry, decide how many you will keep, and consider euthanizing fish with obvious physical defects.
4-6. Move the gourami to a larger tank after a few weeks.
Remaining fry can be fed on an ordinary diet once they have reached several weeks of age, although a diet that includes a variety of animal and vegetable proteins is better for growth than fish flakes alone.
Tips
Dwarf gourami are some of the easiest fish for a beginner hobbyist to breed, although this still requires special preparation.
Warnings
Adult male gourami will often injure females in the same breeding tank. Provide hiding places for the female, and remove her if she is suffering from serious injuries.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:58:36",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Identifying a Breeding Pair\\n1-1. Identify your gourami species (recommended).\\nThe term gourami refers to an entire family of fish, including over 90 species. While many of the gourami species and varieties popular among aquarium hobbyists can be bred in the same conditions, this does not apply to every species. Ask an experienced fish breeder or biologist to examine your gouramis if you do not remember the name they were sold under.\\nThis guide is accurate for dwarf gouramis, pearl gouramis, kissing gouramis, blue (three spot) gouramis, and honey gouramis. Note that kissing gouramis may be more difficult to breed than the others, and require a larger tank.\\nTrue gouramis and chocolate gouramis are especially difficult to care for and breed, and the process is not covered in this article. The chocolate gourami, and some other species, care for the eggs in a parent's mouth.\\nIf your gouramis do not belong to the species listed above, or if you are not certain of the species, you may still use this guide, but you may have a lower success rate or encounter unexpected difficulties.\\n1-2. Feed the gouramis live or frozen food.\\nAnimal food such as blood worms, mosquito larvae, and adult brine shrimp provide adult fish with the nutrients necessary for breeding. You can purchase this in live or frozen form from an aquarium store. Supplement the dry food diet with this food several times a week.\\nGathering this type of food on your own increases the risk of passing on diseases to your fish, and is not recommended without the advice of a local expert.\\n1-3. Watch the fish change size and color.\\nAdult, female gouramis may swell or change color on their underside, as they produce eggs within their bodies. Male gouramis may become more brightly colored if their diet improves, an indicator of good health and suitability for breeding. Try to find one male and one female that display these characteristics, and have no visible defects.\\nIt may be easier to notice the change in size looking down from above.\\n1-4. Identify the sex of the adult fish.\\nIf the females have noticeably changed shape as they laid eggs, or became \\\"gravid,\\\" you may already know which gouramis are female and which are male. Some are relatively easy to identify at any point due to coloration differences. If these methods of identification are not sufficient, try the following methods:\\nIn some gourami species, females have a more rounded dorsal and anal fin (along the spine and near the anus), while the males have a more pointed one.\\nKissing gourami are difficult to identify by appearance. However, if two of the gourami are \\\"kissing,\\\" they likely belong to the same sex, and are fighting for dominance.\\nIf all your fish seem \\\"swollen,\\\" try withholding their food for three or four days. Overweight males may slim down during this time, while egg bearing females probably will not.\\n2. Setting up a Breeding Tank\\n2-1. Select a tank of the appropriate size.\\nFor most gourami pairs, select a tank that can hold 10–20 gallons (40–80 liters) of water up to a six inches (15 cm) water level. This relatively small size and shallow water level actually encourages breeding and fry health, but it is not suitable for all species. Here are a few notable exceptions:\\nKissing gourami will only spawn in a large tank, at least 24 inches (60 cm) deep and at least 36 inches (91 cm) long.\\nPearl gourami can be bred in a tank with this water depth, but the tank should be at least 31 inches (80 cm) long.\\nBlue, or three-spot, gourami can be bred in this tank size, but a somewhat larger tank will work as well. A larger tank may minimize stress and injury to the female.\\nSpecies that grow more than 10 inches (25 cm) long, including the true gourami and giant gourami, may require much larger tanks. Consult an expert before attempting to breed these species, with the exception of the kissing gourami described above.\\n2-2. Add gravel and anchored plants.\\nStart by adding a thin layer of gravel at the bottom. Use this to anchor several plants, large enough for the female to hide behind if the male becomes aggressive. Leave some open area as well.\\nUpturned clay pots and other common aquarium additions can also be added to create hiding spots.\\nIf putting rocks in the tank, be sure these are bought from an aquarium store, as rocks gathered in lakes and rivers may alter the pH of the water.\\n2-3. Add floating plants or objects.\\nSome species, such as the pearl gourami, create a \\\"bubble nest\\\" for the eggs on the underside of a floating plant. You may use actual floating plants, or cut a Styrofoam cup in half lengthwise and float it on the surface of the water. For species that do not build bubble nests, such as kissing gourami, you may wish to float a piece of lettuce instead, which will provide nutrients for the newly hatched fry.\\nDo not cover more than 1/3 of the water surface, as gouramis need to take oxygen directly from the air as well as the water.\\n2-4. Put a cover on the aquarium.\\nProtect the air above the water level from cold drafts by attaching a lid to the aquarium. Make sure there is air between the lid and the water level, and that the lid contains holes to allow the passage of some air.\\nWhile this is not necessary for adult gourami, young fry are highly susceptible to air temperature changes, and could die if the air becomes too cold.\\n2-5. Use a sponge filter.\\nNever use a filter or air stone that creates a current in a breeding tank, as the current can destroy eggs and young fry. Adults may not be willing to lay eggs unless the water is completely still.\\n2-6. Adjust the temperature, pH, and nitrites if necessary.\\nUse an aquarium test kit to monitor these attributes of the tank water for several days, before any fish are introduced. Prepare the tank with a \\\"fishless cycle\\\" to keep toxic nitrites and nitrates out of the water. Heat the tank to around 77–82ºF (25–28ºC), and adjust the pH to between 6.6 and 7.5. Lower pH by adding soft water, such as reverse osmosis water, and raise it by adding crushed limestone, coral, or other carbonate materials.\\n\\n Do not transfer fish between tanks with different temperatures. Instead, gradually increase the temperature of the tank after the breeding fish have been introduced.\\nThe temperature and pH ranges given here are a narrow band suitable for all the common gourami species mentioned at the beginning of this guide. If you have identified your gourami species, you may be able to search online for a broader range of acceptable conditions for that species.\\n3. Breeding the Adult Gourami\\n3-1. Introduce the female to the breeding tank first.\\nMove the female gourami you have selected to breed into the breeding tank first. This gives the female fish time to locate hiding spots and acclimatize to the tank.\\n3-2. Introduce the male.\\nAfter at least an hour, or up to a full day, introduce the male to the tank. Watch the behavior of the two fish, making sure the female has enough hiding places to remain alone for part of the day.\\nThe male may cause minor bruising or scrapes on the female while chasing her. If the female sustains more serious injuries, or is being harassed around the clock, consider adding a second female to divide the male's attention.\\n3-3. Wait for the fish to mate.\\nIt may be several days before the gourami pair mates. While the exact nature of the mating ritual, amplexus, and/or spawning varies by species, it typically takes several hours. Look for the following signs if you are trying to catch the fish in the act:\\nIn many gourami species, the male will create a nest of bubbles before mating occurs. This nest may be in a corner of a tank, or on the underside of a floating object.\\nThe two fish may \\\"dance\\\" around each other, eventually touching and wriggling against each other. In some species, they will latch together and one will roll onto its back.\\nAs the female lays eggs (usually hundreds or thousands), the male may pick these up in his mouth and move them to the bubble nest. In species that do not construct bubble nests, the eggs are typically strewn around into the water.\\n3-4. Know when to remove the parents.\\nThe adult female gourami should be moved back to the original tank directly after spawning, or she may eat the eggs. If the male constructed a \\\"bubble nest,\\\" he will likely continue to care for the young until the fry become free-swimming, after which he should be removed as well. For species that do not construct a nest, such as kissing gourami, remove the parents immediately after spawning.\\nThe male may not eat much or at all while he is caring for the eggs. Pay attention to his eating habits and reduce the amount of food if necessary to avoid making the water dirty.\\n4. Caring for the Fry\\n4-1. Let the fry eat the egg yolk after hatching.\\nFry typically hatch within 30 hours of spawning, often within the first 24 hours for some species. If they were laid in bubble nests, the fry usually stay attached to their place of hatching for two or three days, as they consume the yolk of their egg sac. After eating the yolk from their own eggs, the fry will become free swimming, moving around the tank, and will need to be fed according to the instructions below.\\n4-2. Feed the fry specialized food.\\nThe newly hatched fry are too small to eat most types of food. Suitable foods, which may be available at an aquarium store, include liquid fish food, rotifers, infusoria, or hard boiled egg yolk pushed through cheesecloth. Try to feed them as often as you can manage, six times a day or more.\\nInfusoria can be grown at home by keeping a small piece of lettuce or potato in a jar of water in a sunny area. After a few days, the water should turn cloudy, then clear, and can then be fed to the fry in small amounts.\\n4-3. Use baby brine shrimp once the fry are larger.\\nDwarf gourami, honey gourami, and other species whose adults are less than 5 inches (13 cm) in length produce fry that are too small to eat larger food for seven or eight days after hatching. Larger species may be able to eat baby brine shrimp after about four days. Once the fry have reached this stage, feed them baby brine shrimp to give them the protein needed for growth.\\n4-4. Keep the water clean.\\nContinue to conduct partial water changes as you would in a normal tank, and siphon off material collecting on the bottom of the tank. Because the fry are easily sucked into the siphon, give the bucket of removed water some time to settle so you can find and transfer any fry back into the tank.\\n4-5. Make a plan for your fry before they grow too large.\\nGourami typically produce hundreds or thousands of eggs, and while it's unlikely that all of them will survive, you will often end up with more fry than can fit in your tank. Find someone who will buy your fry, decide how many you will keep, and consider euthanizing fish with obvious physical defects.\\n4-6. Move the gourami to a larger tank after a few weeks.\\nRemaining fry can be fed on an ordinary diet once they have reached several weeks of age, although a diet that includes a variety of animal and vegetable proteins is better for growth than fish flakes alone.\\nTips\\nDwarf gourami are some of the easiest fish for a beginner hobbyist to breed, although this still requires special preparation.\\nWarnings\\nAdult male gourami will often injure females in the same breeding tank. Provide hiding places for the female, and remove her if she is suffering from serious injuries.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Gourami, also pluralized gouramis or gouramies, are popular freshwater aquarium fish, and many gourami species are easily bred in captivity. Many gourami care for their eggs in beautiful nests made from bubbles, while others scatter their eggs to the water or even keep the eggs in the father's mouth!\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Identifying a Breeding Pair\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Identify your gourami species (recommended).\", \"描述\": \"The term gourami refers to an entire family of fish, including over 90 species. While many of the gourami species and varieties popular among aquarium hobbyists can be bred in the same conditions, this does not apply to every species. Ask an experienced fish breeder or biologist to examine your gouramis if you do not remember the name they were sold under.\\nThis guide is accurate for dwarf gouramis, pearl gouramis, kissing gouramis, blue (three spot) gouramis, and honey gouramis. Note that kissing gouramis may be more difficult to breed than the others, and require a larger tank.\\nTrue gouramis and chocolate gouramis are especially difficult to care for and breed, and the process is not covered in this article. The chocolate gourami, and some other species, care for the eggs in a parent's mouth.\\nIf your gouramis do not belong to the species listed above, or if you are not certain of the species, you may still use this guide, but you may have a lower success rate or encounter unexpected difficulties.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Feed the gouramis live or frozen food.\", \"描述\": \"Animal food such as blood worms, mosquito larvae, and adult brine shrimp provide adult fish with the nutrients necessary for breeding. You can purchase this in live or frozen form from an aquarium store. Supplement the dry food diet with this food several times a week.\\nGathering this type of food on your own increases the risk of passing on diseases to your fish, and is not recommended without the advice of a local expert.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Watch the fish change size and color.\", \"描述\": \"Adult, female gouramis may swell or change color on their underside, as they produce eggs within their bodies. Male gouramis may become more brightly colored if their diet improves, an indicator of good health and suitability for breeding. Try to find one male and one female that display these characteristics, and have no visible defects.\\nIt may be easier to notice the change in size looking down from above.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Identify the sex of the adult fish.\", \"描述\": \"If the females have noticeably changed shape as they laid eggs, or became \\\"gravid,\\\" you may already know which gouramis are female and which are male. Some are relatively easy to identify at any point due to coloration differences. If these methods of identification are not sufficient, try the following methods:\\nIn some gourami species, females have a more rounded dorsal and anal fin (along the spine and near the anus), while the males have a more pointed one.\\nKissing gourami are difficult to identify by appearance. However, if two of the gourami are \\\"kissing,\\\" they likely belong to the same sex, and are fighting for dominance.\\nIf all your fish seem \\\"swollen,\\\" try withholding their food for three or four days. Overweight males may slim down during this time, while egg bearing females probably will not.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Setting up a Breeding Tank\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Select a tank of the appropriate size.\", \"描述\": \"For most gourami pairs, select a tank that can hold 10–20 gallons (40–80 liters) of water up to a six inches (15 cm) water level. This relatively small size and shallow water level actually encourages breeding and fry health, but it is not suitable for all species. Here are a few notable exceptions:\\nKissing gourami will only spawn in a large tank, at least 24 inches (60 cm) deep and at least 36 inches (91 cm) long.\\nPearl gourami can be bred in a tank with this water depth, but the tank should be at least 31 inches (80 cm) long.\\nBlue, or three-spot, gourami can be bred in this tank size, but a somewhat larger tank will work as well. A larger tank may minimize stress and injury to the female.\\nSpecies that grow more than 10 inches (25 cm) long, including the true gourami and giant gourami, may require much larger tanks. Consult an expert before attempting to breed these species, with the exception of the kissing gourami described above.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Add gravel and anchored plants.\", \"描述\": \"Start by adding a thin layer of gravel at the bottom. Use this to anchor several plants, large enough for the female to hide behind if the male becomes aggressive. Leave some open area as well.\\nUpturned clay pots and other common aquarium additions can also be added to create hiding spots.\\nIf putting rocks in the tank, be sure these are bought from an aquarium store, as rocks gathered in lakes and rivers may alter the pH of the water.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Add floating plants or objects.\", \"描述\": \"Some species, such as the pearl gourami, create a \\\"bubble nest\\\" for the eggs on the underside of a floating plant. You may use actual floating plants, or cut a Styrofoam cup in half lengthwise and float it on the surface of the water. For species that do not build bubble nests, such as kissing gourami, you may wish to float a piece of lettuce instead, which will provide nutrients for the newly hatched fry.\\nDo not cover more than 1/3 of the water surface, as gouramis need to take oxygen directly from the air as well as the water.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Put a cover on the aquarium.\", \"描述\": \"Protect the air above the water level from cold drafts by attaching a lid to the aquarium. Make sure there is air between the lid and the water level, and that the lid contains holes to allow the passage of some air.\\nWhile this is not necessary for adult gourami, young fry are highly susceptible to air temperature changes, and could die if the air becomes too cold.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Use a sponge filter.\", \"描述\": \"Never use a filter or air stone that creates a current in a breeding tank, as the current can destroy eggs and young fry. Adults may not be willing to lay eggs unless the water is completely still.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Adjust the temperature, pH, and nitrites if necessary.\", \"描述\": \"Use an aquarium test kit to monitor these attributes of the tank water for several days, before any fish are introduced. Prepare the tank with a \\\"fishless cycle\\\" to keep toxic nitrites and nitrates out of the water. Heat the tank to around 77–82ºF (25–28ºC), and adjust the pH to between 6.6 and 7.5. Lower pH by adding soft water, such as reverse osmosis water, and raise it by adding crushed limestone, coral, or other carbonate materials.\\n\\n Do not transfer fish between tanks with different temperatures. Instead, gradually increase the temperature of the tank after the breeding fish have been introduced.\\nThe temperature and pH ranges given here are a narrow band suitable for all the common gourami species mentioned at the beginning of this guide. If you have identified your gourami species, you may be able to search online for a broader range of acceptable conditions for that species.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Breeding the Adult Gourami\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Introduce the female to the breeding tank first.\", \"描述\": \"Move the female gourami you have selected to breed into the breeding tank first. This gives the female fish time to locate hiding spots and acclimatize to the tank.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Introduce the male.\", \"描述\": \"After at least an hour, or up to a full day, introduce the male to the tank. Watch the behavior of the two fish, making sure the female has enough hiding places to remain alone for part of the day.\\nThe male may cause minor bruising or scrapes on the female while chasing her. If the female sustains more serious injuries, or is being harassed around the clock, consider adding a second female to divide the male's attention.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Wait for the fish to mate.\", \"描述\": \"It may be several days before the gourami pair mates. While the exact nature of the mating ritual, amplexus, and/or spawning varies by species, it typically takes several hours. Look for the following signs if you are trying to catch the fish in the act:\\nIn many gourami species, the male will create a nest of bubbles before mating occurs. This nest may be in a corner of a tank, or on the underside of a floating object.\\nThe two fish may \\\"dance\\\" around each other, eventually touching and wriggling against each other. In some species, they will latch together and one will roll onto its back.\\nAs the female lays eggs (usually hundreds or thousands), the male may pick these up in his mouth and move them to the bubble nest. In species that do not construct bubble nests, the eggs are typically strewn around into the water.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Know when to remove the parents.\", \"描述\": \"The adult female gourami should be moved back to the original tank directly after spawning, or she may eat the eggs. If the male constructed a \\\"bubble nest,\\\" he will likely continue to care for the young until the fry become free-swimming, after which he should be removed as well. For species that do not construct a nest, such as kissing gourami, remove the parents immediately after spawning.\\nThe male may not eat much or at all while he is caring for the eggs. Pay attention to his eating habits and reduce the amount of food if necessary to avoid making the water dirty.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Caring for the Fry\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Let the fry eat the egg yolk after hatching.\", \"描述\": \"Fry typically hatch within 30 hours of spawning, often within the first 24 hours for some species. If they were laid in bubble nests, the fry usually stay attached to their place of hatching for two or three days, as they consume the yolk of their egg sac. After eating the yolk from their own eggs, the fry will become free swimming, moving around the tank, and will need to be fed according to the instructions below.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Feed the fry specialized food.\", \"描述\": \"The newly hatched fry are too small to eat most types of food. Suitable foods, which may be available at an aquarium store, include liquid fish food, rotifers, infusoria, or hard boiled egg yolk pushed through cheesecloth. Try to feed them as often as you can manage, six times a day or more.\\nInfusoria can be grown at home by keeping a small piece of lettuce or potato in a jar of water in a sunny area. After a few days, the water should turn cloudy, then clear, and can then be fed to the fry in small amounts.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Use baby brine shrimp once the fry are larger.\", \"描述\": \"Dwarf gourami, honey gourami, and other species whose adults are less than 5 inches (13 cm) in length produce fry that are too small to eat larger food for seven or eight days after hatching. Larger species may be able to eat baby brine shrimp after about four days. Once the fry have reached this stage, feed them baby brine shrimp to give them the protein needed for growth.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Keep the water clean.\", \"描述\": \"Continue to conduct partial water changes as you would in a normal tank, and siphon off material collecting on the bottom of the tank. Because the fry are easily sucked into the siphon, give the bucket of removed water some time to settle so you can find and transfer any fry back into the tank.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Make a plan for your fry before they grow too large.\", \"描述\": \"Gourami typically produce hundreds or thousands of eggs, and while it's unlikely that all of them will survive, you will often end up with more fry than can fit in your tank. Find someone who will buy your fry, decide how many you will keep, and consider euthanizing fish with obvious physical defects.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Move the gourami to a larger tank after a few weeks.\", \"描述\": \"Remaining fry can be fed on an ordinary diet once they have reached several weeks of age, although a diet that includes a variety of animal and vegetable proteins is better for growth than fish flakes alone.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Dwarf gourami are some of the easiest fish for a beginner hobbyist to breed, although this still requires special preparation.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Adult male gourami will often injure females in the same breeding tank. Provide hiding places for the female, and remove her if she is suffering from serious injuries.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
6,929 |
How to Breed Guppies
|
1. Breeding Your Guppies
1-1. Select the fish you want to breed.
Keep in mind the number of fish you want to breed, each fish’s coloring, and the shape of their tails. If you choose two fish to breed who have the same color patterns, the fry will also have that color pattern. The same principle applies for fin shape.
Number of fish: Generally, you will want to select one male and two or three female guppies for breeding. When there is a ratio of one to one, the male often becomes aggressive, chasing the female around the tank. With a one to three ratio, the male’s attention is split between three females, making breeding a less stressful process for the females.
Color pattern: There are several basic guppy patterns. These include Wild (grey or olive coloring), Albino (light colors or white with red eyes,) Blonde (light colors with black pigment,) and Blue (shimmering blue color.)
Tail shape: The shape of guppy tails can range from a rounded back fin to a sword-like shape. There are many different shapes and sizes that guppy tails come in, but the most common are the Delta (which is a large triangular shape,) the Fantail (which is shaped like a fan,) and the Round tail (which is a small, round shape.)
1-2. Select the breeding tank.
You should select a 10 to 20 gallon tank with a heater and a gentle filter. You want the filter to be gentle because otherwise the baby guppies (which are called fry) could be sucked up the filter and killed. If you think your filter is too strong, cover the opening of the filter with sheer tights. The tights will allow the water to be filtered, but will also protect the fry.
1-3. Set up the tank.
Sadly, guppy parents can turn rather cannibalistic so you will need to provide the fry with hiding places for after they are born. Guppy fry tend to sink, so use low-floating plants for their cover. Some high cover is also required as healthy fry will swim upwards.
Do not use any substrate. Substrates are the rocks/imitation rocks used to cover the bottoms of fish tanks. A bare bottom tank is good for fry as it cleans easily and you can record how many fry are alive or how much they eat.
Java moss or spawning moss provides a nice hiding spot for guppy fry.
1-4. Adjust the tank for your fish’s needs.
Set the temperature to around 77-80 degrees Fahrenheit (25 to 26.66 C) while the females and male are in the tank together. Before you place the guppies in the breeding tank, purchase food with a higher nutritional value in order to promote healthy breeding.
1-5. Place the guppies in the breeding tank.
At this point, all you can do is wait for your fish to breed. Place the male back in the regular tank when you notice that your female(s) are pregnant. You can tell whether a female fish is pregnant or not by looking to see if there is a dark mark on her abdomen. This mark is called a gravid spot. All female fish will develop this when pregnant, but it becomes noticeably darker when the eggs have been fertilized.
1-6. Know when your fish is about to give birth.
Generally, the gestation period will take 26 to 31 days. When your female guppy is ready to give birth, her stomach will be very large and her gravid spot will be a deep black (or dark maroon if you are breeding albino or blond guppies.) Her stomach will also square off like a cardboard box rather than growing rounder. Be prepared for the fact that guppies give birth to live babies and not eggs. You will have to monitor your pregnant female closely so that you are there when she gives birth so that you can remove her from the tank immediately after (she may eat her babies otherwise.)
Some signs of a fish going into labor are: being very still and secluding herself, shivering (contractions), hanging out near the heater, or a change in appetite (including refusing to eat, or spitting her food out.)
2. Taking Care of the Fry
2-1. Remove your female fish from the breeding tank once the fry have been born.
While this may seem like a cruel practice, guppy fry are actually born fully prepared to survive on their own. Also, as stated about, mother guppies can occasionally become cannibalistic and will eat their babies.
If you are not able to be there when your female gives birth, make sure to provide the fry lots of aquarium plants to hide in.
2-2. Keep the tank clean and at a healthy temperature.
Fry need to live in a tank that is around 78 degrees F (25.5 degrees C.) Keep your tank at this temperature until the fry are fully grown. The tank will also need to be cleaned often. Siphon the tank carefully every time it gets too dirty and do 40% water changes every few days to keep the water clean.
2-3. Feed the fry the right food.
Guppy fry eat brine shrimp, micro-worms or powdered flakes. They should be fed twice a day. Guppies enjoy both meat and vegetables. You should feed your guppies vegetable flakes, as well as standard flakes. Remember that fry are and if you place too much food in the tank, the excess food that goes bad while sitting in the water could make your fry sick, or even kill them.
Newborn fry should be fed recently hatched brine shrimp so that the guppies reach their greatest growth potential. If you want to give your guppies a treat, place a small amount of boiled spinach in their tank.
2-4. Take steps to ensure that your fry are healthy.
This means removing any fry that have died. Dead fry will float to the top of the tank, making it easy to scoop them up. Keep track of how many fry die. If you notice that there is a high amount of fry death, you will want to figure out what is killing them. Change the water and switch to a different type of food. Any accumulated waste is bad for guppy health.
2-5. Move the fry to the normal tank when they get big enough.
When the fry are a good size, or about a month and a half to two months old, they will be ready to fend for themselves outside of the breeding tank. You can put them into your normal tank with non-aggressive fish, sell them to your local pet store, or give them to friends as gifts.
Tips
If a male does not impregnate a female, try placing another male guppy in a separate jar and place the jar next to the breeding tank. This should inspire the chosen male to impregnate the female, once he realizes there is competition. If this does not work, you might have to choose a different guppy to breed.
Try pairing up females and males who have a particular color or fin pattern you like to ensure your fry look the way you want them to.
Try to ensure you do not overpopulate a tank as they become stressed, aggressive and then they may attack other fish.
Warnings
If a male is being overly aggressive to females, try placing more hiding spots for the female guppy such as fake plants and small shelters. If he is still overly aggressive and will not impregnate a female, remove him, as this is a bad breeding trait (aggressive behavior which is uncommon in guppies) and may cause the females harm.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:58:36",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Breeding Your Guppies\\n1-1. Select the fish you want to breed.\\nKeep in mind the number of fish you want to breed, each fish’s coloring, and the shape of their tails. If you choose two fish to breed who have the same color patterns, the fry will also have that color pattern. The same principle applies for fin shape.\\nNumber of fish: Generally, you will want to select one male and two or three female guppies for breeding. When there is a ratio of one to one, the male often becomes aggressive, chasing the female around the tank. With a one to three ratio, the male’s attention is split between three females, making breeding a less stressful process for the females.\\nColor pattern: There are several basic guppy patterns. These include Wild (grey or olive coloring), Albino (light colors or white with red eyes,) Blonde (light colors with black pigment,) and Blue (shimmering blue color.)\\nTail shape: The shape of guppy tails can range from a rounded back fin to a sword-like shape. There are many different shapes and sizes that guppy tails come in, but the most common are the Delta (which is a large triangular shape,) the Fantail (which is shaped like a fan,) and the Round tail (which is a small, round shape.)\\n1-2. Select the breeding tank.\\nYou should select a 10 to 20 gallon tank with a heater and a gentle filter. You want the filter to be gentle because otherwise the baby guppies (which are called fry) could be sucked up the filter and killed. If you think your filter is too strong, cover the opening of the filter with sheer tights. The tights will allow the water to be filtered, but will also protect the fry.\\n1-3. Set up the tank.\\nSadly, guppy parents can turn rather cannibalistic so you will need to provide the fry with hiding places for after they are born. Guppy fry tend to sink, so use low-floating plants for their cover. Some high cover is also required as healthy fry will swim upwards.\\nDo not use any substrate. Substrates are the rocks/imitation rocks used to cover the bottoms of fish tanks. A bare bottom tank is good for fry as it cleans easily and you can record how many fry are alive or how much they eat.\\nJava moss or spawning moss provides a nice hiding spot for guppy fry.\\n1-4. Adjust the tank for your fish’s needs.\\nSet the temperature to around 77-80 degrees Fahrenheit (25 to 26.66 C) while the females and male are in the tank together. Before you place the guppies in the breeding tank, purchase food with a higher nutritional value in order to promote healthy breeding.\\n1-5. Place the guppies in the breeding tank.\\nAt this point, all you can do is wait for your fish to breed. Place the male back in the regular tank when you notice that your female(s) are pregnant. You can tell whether a female fish is pregnant or not by looking to see if there is a dark mark on her abdomen. This mark is called a gravid spot. All female fish will develop this when pregnant, but it becomes noticeably darker when the eggs have been fertilized.\\n1-6. Know when your fish is about to give birth.\\nGenerally, the gestation period will take 26 to 31 days. When your female guppy is ready to give birth, her stomach will be very large and her gravid spot will be a deep black (or dark maroon if you are breeding albino or blond guppies.) Her stomach will also square off like a cardboard box rather than growing rounder. Be prepared for the fact that guppies give birth to live babies and not eggs. You will have to monitor your pregnant female closely so that you are there when she gives birth so that you can remove her from the tank immediately after (she may eat her babies otherwise.)\\nSome signs of a fish going into labor are: being very still and secluding herself, shivering (contractions), hanging out near the heater, or a change in appetite (including refusing to eat, or spitting her food out.)\\n2. Taking Care of the Fry\\n2-1. Remove your female fish from the breeding tank once the fry have been born.\\nWhile this may seem like a cruel practice, guppy fry are actually born fully prepared to survive on their own. Also, as stated about, mother guppies can occasionally become cannibalistic and will eat their babies.\\nIf you are not able to be there when your female gives birth, make sure to provide the fry lots of aquarium plants to hide in.\\n2-2. Keep the tank clean and at a healthy temperature.\\nFry need to live in a tank that is around 78 degrees F (25.5 degrees C.) Keep your tank at this temperature until the fry are fully grown. The tank will also need to be cleaned often. Siphon the tank carefully every time it gets too dirty and do 40% water changes every few days to keep the water clean.\\n2-3. Feed the fry the right food.\\nGuppy fry eat brine shrimp, micro-worms or powdered flakes. They should be fed twice a day. Guppies enjoy both meat and vegetables. You should feed your guppies vegetable flakes, as well as standard flakes. Remember that fry are and if you place too much food in the tank, the excess food that goes bad while sitting in the water could make your fry sick, or even kill them.\\nNewborn fry should be fed recently hatched brine shrimp so that the guppies reach their greatest growth potential. If you want to give your guppies a treat, place a small amount of boiled spinach in their tank.\\n2-4. Take steps to ensure that your fry are healthy.\\nThis means removing any fry that have died. Dead fry will float to the top of the tank, making it easy to scoop them up. Keep track of how many fry die. If you notice that there is a high amount of fry death, you will want to figure out what is killing them. Change the water and switch to a different type of food. Any accumulated waste is bad for guppy health.\\n2-5. Move the fry to the normal tank when they get big enough.\\nWhen the fry are a good size, or about a month and a half to two months old, they will be ready to fend for themselves outside of the breeding tank. You can put them into your normal tank with non-aggressive fish, sell them to your local pet store, or give them to friends as gifts.\\nTips\\nIf a male does not impregnate a female, try placing another male guppy in a separate jar and place the jar next to the breeding tank. This should inspire the chosen male to impregnate the female, once he realizes there is competition. If this does not work, you might have to choose a different guppy to breed.\\nTry pairing up females and males who have a particular color or fin pattern you like to ensure your fry look the way you want them to.\\nTry to ensure you do not overpopulate a tank as they become stressed, aggressive and then they may attack other fish.\\nWarnings\\nIf a male is being overly aggressive to females, try placing more hiding spots for the female guppy such as fake plants and small shelters. If he is still overly aggressive and will not impregnate a female, remove him, as this is a bad breeding trait (aggressive behavior which is uncommon in guppies) and may cause the females harm.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Guppies have wonderful colors, cute faces, and best of all, easy to take care of. What more would you want in a fish? If you are hoping to keep your aquarium filled with these little beauties, you will need to learn how to breed your fish and care for their cute fry.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Breeding Your Guppies\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Select the fish you want to breed.\", \"描述\": \"Keep in mind the number of fish you want to breed, each fish’s coloring, and the shape of their tails. If you choose two fish to breed who have the same color patterns, the fry will also have that color pattern. The same principle applies for fin shape.\\nNumber of fish: Generally, you will want to select one male and two or three female guppies for breeding. When there is a ratio of one to one, the male often becomes aggressive, chasing the female around the tank. With a one to three ratio, the male’s attention is split between three females, making breeding a less stressful process for the females.\\nColor pattern: There are several basic guppy patterns. These include Wild (grey or olive coloring), Albino (light colors or white with red eyes,) Blonde (light colors with black pigment,) and Blue (shimmering blue color.)\\nTail shape: The shape of guppy tails can range from a rounded back fin to a sword-like shape. There are many different shapes and sizes that guppy tails come in, but the most common are the Delta (which is a large triangular shape,) the Fantail (which is shaped like a fan,) and the Round tail (which is a small, round shape.)\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Select the breeding tank.\", \"描述\": \"You should select a 10 to 20 gallon tank with a heater and a gentle filter. You want the filter to be gentle because otherwise the baby guppies (which are called fry) could be sucked up the filter and killed. If you think your filter is too strong, cover the opening of the filter with sheer tights. The tights will allow the water to be filtered, but will also protect the fry.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Set up the tank.\", \"描述\": \"Sadly, guppy parents can turn rather cannibalistic so you will need to provide the fry with hiding places for after they are born. Guppy fry tend to sink, so use low-floating plants for their cover. Some high cover is also required as healthy fry will swim upwards.\\nDo not use any substrate. Substrates are the rocks/imitation rocks used to cover the bottoms of fish tanks. A bare bottom tank is good for fry as it cleans easily and you can record how many fry are alive or how much they eat.\\nJava moss or spawning moss provides a nice hiding spot for guppy fry.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Adjust the tank for your fish’s needs.\", \"描述\": \"Set the temperature to around 77-80 degrees Fahrenheit (25 to 26.66 C) while the females and male are in the tank together. Before you place the guppies in the breeding tank, purchase food with a higher nutritional value in order to promote healthy breeding.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Place the guppies in the breeding tank.\", \"描述\": \"At this point, all you can do is wait for your fish to breed. Place the male back in the regular tank when you notice that your female(s) are pregnant. You can tell whether a female fish is pregnant or not by looking to see if there is a dark mark on her abdomen. This mark is called a gravid spot. All female fish will develop this when pregnant, but it becomes noticeably darker when the eggs have been fertilized.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Know when your fish is about to give birth.\", \"描述\": \"Generally, the gestation period will take 26 to 31 days. When your female guppy is ready to give birth, her stomach will be very large and her gravid spot will be a deep black (or dark maroon if you are breeding albino or blond guppies.) Her stomach will also square off like a cardboard box rather than growing rounder. Be prepared for the fact that guppies give birth to live babies and not eggs. You will have to monitor your pregnant female closely so that you are there when she gives birth so that you can remove her from the tank immediately after (she may eat her babies otherwise.)\\nSome signs of a fish going into labor are: being very still and secluding herself, shivering (contractions), hanging out near the heater, or a change in appetite (including refusing to eat, or spitting her food out.)\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Taking Care of the Fry\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Remove your female fish from the breeding tank once the fry have been born.\", \"描述\": \"While this may seem like a cruel practice, guppy fry are actually born fully prepared to survive on their own. Also, as stated about, mother guppies can occasionally become cannibalistic and will eat their babies.\\nIf you are not able to be there when your female gives birth, make sure to provide the fry lots of aquarium plants to hide in.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Keep the tank clean and at a healthy temperature.\", \"描述\": \"Fry need to live in a tank that is around 78 degrees F (25.5 degrees C.) Keep your tank at this temperature until the fry are fully grown. The tank will also need to be cleaned often. Siphon the tank carefully every time it gets too dirty and do 40% water changes every few days to keep the water clean.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Feed the fry the right food.\", \"描述\": \"Guppy fry eat brine shrimp, micro-worms or powdered flakes. They should be fed twice a day. Guppies enjoy both meat and vegetables. You should feed your guppies vegetable flakes, as well as standard flakes. Remember that fry are and if you place too much food in the tank, the excess food that goes bad while sitting in the water could make your fry sick, or even kill them.\\nNewborn fry should be fed recently hatched brine shrimp so that the guppies reach their greatest growth potential. If you want to give your guppies a treat, place a small amount of boiled spinach in their tank.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Take steps to ensure that your fry are healthy.\", \"描述\": \"This means removing any fry that have died. Dead fry will float to the top of the tank, making it easy to scoop them up. Keep track of how many fry die. If you notice that there is a high amount of fry death, you will want to figure out what is killing them. Change the water and switch to a different type of food. Any accumulated waste is bad for guppy health.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Move the fry to the normal tank when they get big enough.\", \"描述\": \"When the fry are a good size, or about a month and a half to two months old, they will be ready to fend for themselves outside of the breeding tank. You can put them into your normal tank with non-aggressive fish, sell them to your local pet store, or give them to friends as gifts.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"If a male does not impregnate a female, try placing another male guppy in a separate jar and place the jar next to the breeding tank. This should inspire the chosen male to impregnate the female, once he realizes there is competition. If this does not work, you might have to choose a different guppy to breed.\\n\", \"Try pairing up females and males who have a particular color or fin pattern you like to ensure your fry look the way you want them to.\\n\", \"Try to ensure you do not overpopulate a tank as they become stressed, aggressive and then they may attack other fish.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"If a male is being overly aggressive to females, try placing more hiding spots for the female guppy such as fake plants and small shelters. If he is still overly aggressive and will not impregnate a female, remove him, as this is a bad breeding trait (aggressive behavior which is uncommon in guppies) and may cause the females harm.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
6,930 |
How to Breed Hamsters
|
1. Buying Hamsters for Breeding
1-1. Decide what type of hamsters you want.
Syrian hamsters are good pets, partially because they are solitary animals, but they can be quite hard to breed. If the male and female are introduced at the wrong time, they may fight. Dwarf hamsters are thought to be nippy with humans, but are more social with each other, and can actually be easier to breed.
There are also Russian hamsters, winter white hamsters, and other varieties. If you're buying from a breeder, talk about the different varieties and discover whether they are social or not, to have some sense of the breeding process.
1-2. Get a male and female.
It's best to get your breeding hamsters from a breeder, so you have a wide selection of colours and types. It's also good to know the breeding history of the hamsters.
At a pet shop, you will often find siblings or hybrid breed hamsters that are less desirable for breeding. Also, pet store workers often have a difficult time telling the difference between males and females.
1-3. Look for hamsters that are in good health.
Make sure that their eyes are clear and bright, their fur is smooth and glossy, and that they look active and interested in their surroundings.
1-4. Buy two large cages for your hamsters.
Plastic bin cages or aquariums are a massive advantage in breeding. Put one hamster in each cage and fill the bottom with wood shavings, megazorb, or carefresh. Try to avoid sawdust, as this gets into hamsters' eyes and can affect their breathing.
Avoid wire cages. Hamsters, especially newborn ones, can squeeze out through them.
Get a small plastic or preferably wood "hamster home" for your hamster to huddle in. Fill it with some of the same shavings as in the cage.
A hamster wheel is also a must for the habitat. For dwarf hamsters the size can be almost any size, as long as they are able to use it, but for Syrians it must be more than 8 inches (20.3 cm), and it should be plastic, not wire, as holes in these wheels are very likely to harm your hamster. Also, never give your hamster a wheel where it's running with an arched back, even just a little, as that can cause serious health problems.
You'll also need a water bottle, food bowl, hamster food, treats, and anything else that you can think off.
1-5. When you bring each of your hamsters home, allow it at least a day alone.
Don't handle them or take them out of their cages, but make sure the habitat is well stocked to help your hamsters get used to their new environment without disruption. It is best to start handling them the day after you bring them home. If your new hamster hasn't been handled a lot then be prepared to tame them.
2. Breeding Your Hamsters
2-1. Wait until the female is in heat.
When hamsters are 28 days old, they will reach their sexual maturity. The female enters heat roughly every 4 days. When the female is in heat, it will behave much like a cat in heat, crouching low to the ground and raising its tail. You may also notice that the hamster is smellier than usual because it is giving off pheromones.
If the female is not in heat, trying to breed them can be very dangerous and counterproductive. The female will often fight and kill the male.
When you're planning on breeding them, place the two cages side by side for a few days, so they can see and get used to each other, and so the pheromones can do their work.
2-2. Put the female into the male's cage.
Hamsters are nocturnal animals, so it's best to start in the early evening. Put them into the neutral territory or the male's cage. A spare cage is a good option, as she is more likely to attack the male if he is put in her cage. If they start fighting, remove one hamster from the cage, and try again another day.
Keep following these steps until they mate. If you miss the "heat" window, wait for a few days until it comes back around.
2-3. Isolate your female hamster once the mating is over.
While some male hamsters will care for the babies, some others will attack and eat them. It's best to be on the safe side, even if you have a kind and loving male hamster, to separate him for the duration of the gestation and birth, which should only be about two weeks.
If you're breeding dwarf hamsters, the time to reach sexual maturity and the gestation period are slightly longer. It takes one month to 5 weeks for a dwarf hamster to reach sexual maturity, and the gestation period is about three weeks. However, no hamsters under 5(for males)/6(for females) months should be bred as this increases the risk of something going wrong.
3. Birthing the Hamsters
3-1. Wait.
At this stage, you need to be patient and watch the progress. If your female is pregnant, she should start "showing" within a few days, and by the time she's ready to give birth will have very prominent "saddlebags" on each side. You don't need to do anything special, just avoid holding the hamster roughly and leave the hamster alone.
You will know the babies will be born soon when the female becomes particularly restless. She wanders around her cage, gathering food and nesting material for her nest. Then labor begins: you see her sides starting to heave and tiny pink bodies begin to emerge. One by one, they are born while she is on the move in her cage, and one by one, she carefully picks them up in her mouth and brings them back to the nest.
When the hamster gives birth, do not attempt to interfere or help in any way. Birth, especially the first birth, is often difficult on the hamster, but there's nothing you can do to help at this point. Just avoid interference and let nature take its course.
3-2. Look for the babies.
It is during this time and the days that follow that you must take extra care not to disturb her. If she leaves any pups lying around the cage, you must not touch them. If for some reason you must, rub a spoon well into the substrate, then scoop them up in it and return them to the nest.
3-3. Allow the mother to nurse for three weeks without any disturbance, not even cleaning the cage.
Leave her, the cage, and especially her babies alone, except for discreetly topping up her food and water. This is particularly important for the first time mother, who under stress, has been known to kill and even eat her babies.
Don't assume the mother is eating the babies if she puts them in her mouth. This happens if she is startled and thinks they are in danger.
3-4. Wait three and a half weeks.
At this point, it's safe to separate the new hamsters and determine their genders. They become sexually mature at 5-6 weeks, and you do not want sibling breeding, that will cause genetic disorders. Keep females in one cage, males in another for another two to three weeks until they go to their new homes.
Tips
You can see if your female hamster is in the season by stroking her along the length of her body. If she lies down, or slightly curves her back down, then she might be ready to mate.
Don't disturb hamsters while they're eating, especially mother hamsters, females in general, and male babies.
Charge an adoption fee of $20 - $40. This will most likely deter people who would not look after the hamsters properly. Do not charge less than the local pet store.
Warnings
Make sure that you can afford to look after up to 20 or more hamsters in case you can't find homes.
Do not attempt to breed a female hamster that is not in heat.
Get advice and guidance from a well-respected breeder. One wrong move and you might be responsible for the death of a litter of hamsters.
Keep in mind that some information on the internet is false. Ask a well-respected breeder to confirm anything you read.
Do not stress the mother out; this increases the chance that she will kill some of the offspring.
Do not sell or give hamsters to pet stores. Chances are they'll spend the rest of their life in a cage.
Do not breed winter whites with Campbell's dwarf hamsters. This will create hybrids, which are the "Russian hamsters" you see in pet shops. It can result in the mother dying in pain due to the different sizes of the babies and health problems for the offspring.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:58:36",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Buying Hamsters for Breeding\\n1-1. Decide what type of hamsters you want.\\nSyrian hamsters are good pets, partially because they are solitary animals, but they can be quite hard to breed. If the male and female are introduced at the wrong time, they may fight. Dwarf hamsters are thought to be nippy with humans, but are more social with each other, and can actually be easier to breed.\\nThere are also Russian hamsters, winter white hamsters, and other varieties. If you're buying from a breeder, talk about the different varieties and discover whether they are social or not, to have some sense of the breeding process.\\n1-2. Get a male and female.\\nIt's best to get your breeding hamsters from a breeder, so you have a wide selection of colours and types. It's also good to know the breeding history of the hamsters.\\nAt a pet shop, you will often find siblings or hybrid breed hamsters that are less desirable for breeding. Also, pet store workers often have a difficult time telling the difference between males and females.\\n1-3. Look for hamsters that are in good health.\\nMake sure that their eyes are clear and bright, their fur is smooth and glossy, and that they look active and interested in their surroundings.\\n1-4. Buy two large cages for your hamsters.\\nPlastic bin cages or aquariums are a massive advantage in breeding. Put one hamster in each cage and fill the bottom with wood shavings, megazorb, or carefresh. Try to avoid sawdust, as this gets into hamsters' eyes and can affect their breathing.\\nAvoid wire cages. Hamsters, especially newborn ones, can squeeze out through them.\\nGet a small plastic or preferably wood \\\"hamster home\\\" for your hamster to huddle in. Fill it with some of the same shavings as in the cage.\\nA hamster wheel is also a must for the habitat. For dwarf hamsters the size can be almost any size, as long as they are able to use it, but for Syrians it must be more than 8 inches (20.3 cm), and it should be plastic, not wire, as holes in these wheels are very likely to harm your hamster. Also, never give your hamster a wheel where it's running with an arched back, even just a little, as that can cause serious health problems.\\nYou'll also need a water bottle, food bowl, hamster food, treats, and anything else that you can think off.\\n1-5. When you bring each of your hamsters home, allow it at least a day alone.\\nDon't handle them or take them out of their cages, but make sure the habitat is well stocked to help your hamsters get used to their new environment without disruption. It is best to start handling them the day after you bring them home. If your new hamster hasn't been handled a lot then be prepared to tame them.\\n2. Breeding Your Hamsters\\n2-1. Wait until the female is in heat.\\nWhen hamsters are 28 days old, they will reach their sexual maturity. The female enters heat roughly every 4 days. When the female is in heat, it will behave much like a cat in heat, crouching low to the ground and raising its tail. You may also notice that the hamster is smellier than usual because it is giving off pheromones.\\nIf the female is not in heat, trying to breed them can be very dangerous and counterproductive. The female will often fight and kill the male.\\nWhen you're planning on breeding them, place the two cages side by side for a few days, so they can see and get used to each other, and so the pheromones can do their work.\\n2-2. Put the female into the male's cage.\\nHamsters are nocturnal animals, so it's best to start in the early evening. Put them into the neutral territory or the male's cage. A spare cage is a good option, as she is more likely to attack the male if he is put in her cage. If they start fighting, remove one hamster from the cage, and try again another day.\\nKeep following these steps until they mate. If you miss the \\\"heat\\\" window, wait for a few days until it comes back around.\\n2-3. Isolate your female hamster once the mating is over.\\nWhile some male hamsters will care for the babies, some others will attack and eat them. It's best to be on the safe side, even if you have a kind and loving male hamster, to separate him for the duration of the gestation and birth, which should only be about two weeks.\\nIf you're breeding dwarf hamsters, the time to reach sexual maturity and the gestation period are slightly longer. It takes one month to 5 weeks for a dwarf hamster to reach sexual maturity, and the gestation period is about three weeks. However, no hamsters under 5(for males)/6(for females) months should be bred as this increases the risk of something going wrong.\\n3. Birthing the Hamsters\\n3-1. Wait.\\nAt this stage, you need to be patient and watch the progress. If your female is pregnant, she should start \\\"showing\\\" within a few days, and by the time she's ready to give birth will have very prominent \\\"saddlebags\\\" on each side. You don't need to do anything special, just avoid holding the hamster roughly and leave the hamster alone.\\nYou will know the babies will be born soon when the female becomes particularly restless. She wanders around her cage, gathering food and nesting material for her nest. Then labor begins: you see her sides starting to heave and tiny pink bodies begin to emerge. One by one, they are born while she is on the move in her cage, and one by one, she carefully picks them up in her mouth and brings them back to the nest.\\nWhen the hamster gives birth, do not attempt to interfere or help in any way. Birth, especially the first birth, is often difficult on the hamster, but there's nothing you can do to help at this point. Just avoid interference and let nature take its course.\\n3-2. Look for the babies.\\nIt is during this time and the days that follow that you must take extra care not to disturb her. If she leaves any pups lying around the cage, you must not touch them. If for some reason you must, rub a spoon well into the substrate, then scoop them up in it and return them to the nest.\\n3-3. Allow the mother to nurse for three weeks without any disturbance, not even cleaning the cage.\\nLeave her, the cage, and especially her babies alone, except for discreetly topping up her food and water. This is particularly important for the first time mother, who under stress, has been known to kill and even eat her babies.\\nDon't assume the mother is eating the babies if she puts them in her mouth. This happens if she is startled and thinks they are in danger.\\n3-4. Wait three and a half weeks.\\nAt this point, it's safe to separate the new hamsters and determine their genders. They become sexually mature at 5-6 weeks, and you do not want sibling breeding, that will cause genetic disorders. Keep females in one cage, males in another for another two to three weeks until they go to their new homes.\\nTips\\nYou can see if your female hamster is in the season by stroking her along the length of her body. If she lies down, or slightly curves her back down, then she might be ready to mate.\\nDon't disturb hamsters while they're eating, especially mother hamsters, females in general, and male babies.\\nCharge an adoption fee of $20 - $40. This will most likely deter people who would not look after the hamsters properly. Do not charge less than the local pet store.\\nWarnings\\nMake sure that you can afford to look after up to 20 or more hamsters in case you can't find homes.\\nDo not attempt to breed a female hamster that is not in heat.\\nGet advice and guidance from a well-respected breeder. One wrong move and you might be responsible for the death of a litter of hamsters.\\nKeep in mind that some information on the internet is false. Ask a well-respected breeder to confirm anything you read.\\nDo not stress the mother out; this increases the chance that she will kill some of the offspring.\\nDo not sell or give hamsters to pet stores. Chances are they'll spend the rest of their life in a cage.\\nDo not breed winter whites with Campbell's dwarf hamsters. This will create hybrids, which are the \\\"Russian hamsters\\\" you see in pet shops. It can result in the mother dying in pain due to the different sizes of the babies and health problems for the offspring.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Cute and cuddly, hamsters make wonderful pets. Breeding them isn't always a simple task; buying two random hamsters and breeding them can be dangerous for both the mother and her pups. Although difficult, breeding hamsters is a fun and rewarding way to provide pets to friends and family. Once you have homes lined out for the hamsters-to-be, here's what to do.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Buying Hamsters for Breeding\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Decide what type of hamsters you want.\", \"描述\": \"Syrian hamsters are good pets, partially because they are solitary animals, but they can be quite hard to breed. If the male and female are introduced at the wrong time, they may fight. Dwarf hamsters are thought to be nippy with humans, but are more social with each other, and can actually be easier to breed.\\nThere are also Russian hamsters, winter white hamsters, and other varieties. If you're buying from a breeder, talk about the different varieties and discover whether they are social or not, to have some sense of the breeding process.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Get a male and female.\", \"描述\": \"It's best to get your breeding hamsters from a breeder, so you have a wide selection of colours and types. It's also good to know the breeding history of the hamsters.\\nAt a pet shop, you will often find siblings or hybrid breed hamsters that are less desirable for breeding. Also, pet store workers often have a difficult time telling the difference between males and females.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Look for hamsters that are in good health.\", \"描述\": \"Make sure that their eyes are clear and bright, their fur is smooth and glossy, and that they look active and interested in their surroundings.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Buy two large cages for your hamsters.\", \"描述\": \"Plastic bin cages or aquariums are a massive advantage in breeding. Put one hamster in each cage and fill the bottom with wood shavings, megazorb, or carefresh. Try to avoid sawdust, as this gets into hamsters' eyes and can affect their breathing.\\nAvoid wire cages. Hamsters, especially newborn ones, can squeeze out through them.\\nGet a small plastic or preferably wood \\\"hamster home\\\" for your hamster to huddle in. Fill it with some of the same shavings as in the cage.\\nA hamster wheel is also a must for the habitat. For dwarf hamsters the size can be almost any size, as long as they are able to use it, but for Syrians it must be more than 8 inches (20.3 cm), and it should be plastic, not wire, as holes in these wheels are very likely to harm your hamster. Also, never give your hamster a wheel where it's running with an arched back, even just a little, as that can cause serious health problems.\\nYou'll also need a water bottle, food bowl, hamster food, treats, and anything else that you can think off.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"When you bring each of your hamsters home, allow it at least a day alone.\", \"描述\": \"Don't handle them or take them out of their cages, but make sure the habitat is well stocked to help your hamsters get used to their new environment without disruption. It is best to start handling them the day after you bring them home. If your new hamster hasn't been handled a lot then be prepared to tame them.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Breeding Your Hamsters\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Wait until the female is in heat.\", \"描述\": \"When hamsters are 28 days old, they will reach their sexual maturity. The female enters heat roughly every 4 days. When the female is in heat, it will behave much like a cat in heat, crouching low to the ground and raising its tail. You may also notice that the hamster is smellier than usual because it is giving off pheromones.\\nIf the female is not in heat, trying to breed them can be very dangerous and counterproductive. The female will often fight and kill the male.\\nWhen you're planning on breeding them, place the two cages side by side for a few days, so they can see and get used to each other, and so the pheromones can do their work.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Put the female into the male's cage.\", \"描述\": \"Hamsters are nocturnal animals, so it's best to start in the early evening. Put them into the neutral territory or the male's cage. A spare cage is a good option, as she is more likely to attack the male if he is put in her cage. If they start fighting, remove one hamster from the cage, and try again another day.\\nKeep following these steps until they mate. If you miss the \\\"heat\\\" window, wait for a few days until it comes back around.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Isolate your female hamster once the mating is over.\", \"描述\": \"While some male hamsters will care for the babies, some others will attack and eat them. It's best to be on the safe side, even if you have a kind and loving male hamster, to separate him for the duration of the gestation and birth, which should only be about two weeks.\\nIf you're breeding dwarf hamsters, the time to reach sexual maturity and the gestation period are slightly longer. It takes one month to 5 weeks for a dwarf hamster to reach sexual maturity, and the gestation period is about three weeks. However, no hamsters under 5(for males)/6(for females) months should be bred as this increases the risk of something going wrong.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Birthing the Hamsters\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Wait.\", \"描述\": \"At this stage, you need to be patient and watch the progress. If your female is pregnant, she should start \\\"showing\\\" within a few days, and by the time she's ready to give birth will have very prominent \\\"saddlebags\\\" on each side. You don't need to do anything special, just avoid holding the hamster roughly and leave the hamster alone.\\nYou will know the babies will be born soon when the female becomes particularly restless. She wanders around her cage, gathering food and nesting material for her nest. Then labor begins: you see her sides starting to heave and tiny pink bodies begin to emerge. One by one, they are born while she is on the move in her cage, and one by one, she carefully picks them up in her mouth and brings them back to the nest.\\nWhen the hamster gives birth, do not attempt to interfere or help in any way. Birth, especially the first birth, is often difficult on the hamster, but there's nothing you can do to help at this point. Just avoid interference and let nature take its course.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Look for the babies.\", \"描述\": \"It is during this time and the days that follow that you must take extra care not to disturb her. If she leaves any pups lying around the cage, you must not touch them. If for some reason you must, rub a spoon well into the substrate, then scoop them up in it and return them to the nest.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Allow the mother to nurse for three weeks without any disturbance, not even cleaning the cage.\", \"描述\": \"Leave her, the cage, and especially her babies alone, except for discreetly topping up her food and water. This is particularly important for the first time mother, who under stress, has been known to kill and even eat her babies.\\nDon't assume the mother is eating the babies if she puts them in her mouth. This happens if she is startled and thinks they are in danger.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Wait three and a half weeks.\", \"描述\": \"At this point, it's safe to separate the new hamsters and determine their genders. They become sexually mature at 5-6 weeks, and you do not want sibling breeding, that will cause genetic disorders. Keep females in one cage, males in another for another two to three weeks until they go to their new homes.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"You can see if your female hamster is in the season by stroking her along the length of her body. If she lies down, or slightly curves her back down, then she might be ready to mate.\\n\", \"Don't disturb hamsters while they're eating, especially mother hamsters, females in general, and male babies.\\n\", \"Charge an adoption fee of $20 - $40. This will most likely deter people who would not look after the hamsters properly. Do not charge less than the local pet store.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Make sure that you can afford to look after up to 20 or more hamsters in case you can't find homes.\\n\", \"Do not attempt to breed a female hamster that is not in heat.\\n\", \"Get advice and guidance from a well-respected breeder. One wrong move and you might be responsible for the death of a litter of hamsters.\\n\", \"Keep in mind that some information on the internet is false. Ask a well-respected breeder to confirm anything you read.\\n\", \"Do not stress the mother out; this increases the chance that she will kill some of the offspring.\\n\", \"Do not sell or give hamsters to pet stores. Chances are they'll spend the rest of their life in a cage.\\n\", \"Do not breed winter whites with Campbell's dwarf hamsters. This will create hybrids, which are the \\\"Russian hamsters\\\" you see in pet shops. It can result in the mother dying in pain due to the different sizes of the babies and health problems for the offspring.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
6,931 |
How to Breed Hermit Crabs
|
1. Setting up The Mating Tank
1-1. Set up a ten-gallon tank for mating.
Although it is very difficult to breed hermit crabs in captivity, you can possibly do it in an indoor saltwater tank. In addition to the tank where you currently keep your hermit crabs, you can set up a separate tank that is devoted to mating. The minimum tank size is ten gallons.
1-2. Simulate a beach by adding two inches of sand.
You’ll need to recreate the natural conditions for mating, which includes a beach and sea in your ten-gallon tank. At the bottom of your tank, add two inches of sand.
1-3. Make an ocean area by adding a saltwater container.
Since the Mother crab will need to deposit her eggs in the sea, you’ll need to recreate a little ocean in the tank. Add a saltwater container in a low area of the tank. It should contain a mix of de-chlorinated water and an aquarium salt mix.
Don’t use regular table salt for the saltwater container.
1-4. Keep the temperature in the ideal range.
Add a heat rock to maintain a temperature of between 24 and 28 Celsius (75-82 Fahrenheit). You should also locate the tank away from direct sunlight and drafts, since you want to maintain a consistent temperature during the mating process.
The water in the tank should be between 72 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit (22-26 Celsius).
1-5. Maintain 70% humidity with a garden sprayer.
Because hermit crabs are very sensitive to humidity levels, you’ll want to maintain adequate levels of humidity throughout the breeding process. You can use a garden sprayer to mist the tank. You should also keep the sand substrate moist.
Use a hygrometer to measure humidity levels.
1-6. Create a relaxing atmosphere by adding nice scenery.
You’ll need to create a relaxing atmosphere to get your hermit crabs into the mating mood! For instance, you could add some nice scenery to your mating tank. Adding some branches and vines to the tank will give your crabs a place to hide and something to climb around. This touch of nature will help create the right atmosphere.
1-7. Make a ramp leading down from the saltwater tank to ten-gallon tank.
You can make it easy for the hermit crabs to move back and forth between the two tanks by making a ramp. In this way, the hermit crabs can crawl between their home and mating tanks.
2. Mating The Crabs
2-1. Breed hermit crabs in the spring or summer.
In captivity, hermit crabs breed between February and August. They typically breed in June and July, so try breeding your hermit crabs in the spring or summer.
2-2. Find a mature female in your crabitat.
Look in your main hermit crab tank or “crabitat” for a mature female, which should be medium sized. Wait until the hermit crab comes most of the way out of her shell before checking to see if you have the right sex. Inspect her body for genitalia called gonophores, which are located close to the abdomen on the back of her legs. You should see two tiny holes.
If you can’t see the two tiny holes, it is a male.
2-3. Pick a male from the crabitat.
Pick a mature male crab from your main tank. You’ll need to wait for one of them to crawl out of its shell. At this time, you can inspect its body for genitalia called gonophores. If you can’t see two tiny holes at the back of the body, you have a male.
2-4. Place the crabs together.
Put the two crabs in your newly created enclosure. If they don't mate, try a different combination of crabs.
Be aware that it is very uncommon for breeding in captivity to actually happen, so don't be discouraged if nothing happens.
2-5. Wait for a month for the eggs to hatch.
It takes one month for the hermit crab eggs to hatch. Let the mother put the eggs in the saltwater container. The eggs should hatch when they touch the water.
3. Raising the Larvae
3-1. Use the cup method.
Place the larvae in aerated cups. Put some small shells in the cups, which the larvae can use. Put the cups into a sand substrate. Feed the larvae brine shrimp and spirulina.
You can feed them three drops of live plankton per day.
3-2. Put young hermit crabs in a transition tank.
Your transition tank should be half beach and half marine water. Put in a couple of containers with salt and fresh water. Put a coconut in the tank, as well as some nice shells. Make sure the young hermit crabs have a ramp going from the sand to the water containers.
Young hermit crabs like to eat their siblings.
Use regular marine salt water for the transition tank. You can purchase it at most pet stores.
3-3. Feed young hermit crabs a high-protein diet.
You can give them marine copepods, which are available at the pet store. You could also give them frozen krill, marine crayfish or shrimp granules and a couple drops of live plankton.
For fourteen days, try feeding them a mixture of brine shrimp, marine infusoria, and powdered spirulina.
Warnings
It is very difficult but not quite impossible to breed hermit crabs in captivity, so don’t get your hopes up too much!
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:58:36",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Setting up The Mating Tank\\n1-1. Set up a ten-gallon tank for mating.\\nAlthough it is very difficult to breed hermit crabs in captivity, you can possibly do it in an indoor saltwater tank. In addition to the tank where you currently keep your hermit crabs, you can set up a separate tank that is devoted to mating. The minimum tank size is ten gallons.\\n1-2. Simulate a beach by adding two inches of sand.\\nYou’ll need to recreate the natural conditions for mating, which includes a beach and sea in your ten-gallon tank. At the bottom of your tank, add two inches of sand.\\n1-3. Make an ocean area by adding a saltwater container.\\nSince the Mother crab will need to deposit her eggs in the sea, you’ll need to recreate a little ocean in the tank. Add a saltwater container in a low area of the tank. It should contain a mix of de-chlorinated water and an aquarium salt mix.\\nDon’t use regular table salt for the saltwater container.\\n1-4. Keep the temperature in the ideal range.\\nAdd a heat rock to maintain a temperature of between 24 and 28 Celsius (75-82 Fahrenheit). You should also locate the tank away from direct sunlight and drafts, since you want to maintain a consistent temperature during the mating process.\\nThe water in the tank should be between 72 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit (22-26 Celsius).\\n1-5. Maintain 70% humidity with a garden sprayer.\\nBecause hermit crabs are very sensitive to humidity levels, you’ll want to maintain adequate levels of humidity throughout the breeding process. You can use a garden sprayer to mist the tank. You should also keep the sand substrate moist.\\nUse a hygrometer to measure humidity levels.\\n1-6. Create a relaxing atmosphere by adding nice scenery.\\nYou’ll need to create a relaxing atmosphere to get your hermit crabs into the mating mood! For instance, you could add some nice scenery to your mating tank. Adding some branches and vines to the tank will give your crabs a place to hide and something to climb around. This touch of nature will help create the right atmosphere.\\n1-7. Make a ramp leading down from the saltwater tank to ten-gallon tank.\\nYou can make it easy for the hermit crabs to move back and forth between the two tanks by making a ramp. In this way, the hermit crabs can crawl between their home and mating tanks.\\n2. Mating The Crabs\\n2-1. Breed hermit crabs in the spring or summer.\\nIn captivity, hermit crabs breed between February and August. They typically breed in June and July, so try breeding your hermit crabs in the spring or summer.\\n2-2. Find a mature female in your crabitat.\\nLook in your main hermit crab tank or “crabitat” for a mature female, which should be medium sized. Wait until the hermit crab comes most of the way out of her shell before checking to see if you have the right sex. Inspect her body for genitalia called gonophores, which are located close to the abdomen on the back of her legs. You should see two tiny holes.\\nIf you can’t see the two tiny holes, it is a male.\\n2-3. Pick a male from the crabitat.\\nPick a mature male crab from your main tank. You’ll need to wait for one of them to crawl out of its shell. At this time, you can inspect its body for genitalia called gonophores. If you can’t see two tiny holes at the back of the body, you have a male.\\n2-4. Place the crabs together.\\nPut the two crabs in your newly created enclosure. If they don't mate, try a different combination of crabs.\\nBe aware that it is very uncommon for breeding in captivity to actually happen, so don't be discouraged if nothing happens.\\n2-5. Wait for a month for the eggs to hatch.\\nIt takes one month for the hermit crab eggs to hatch. Let the mother put the eggs in the saltwater container. The eggs should hatch when they touch the water.\\n3. Raising the Larvae\\n3-1. Use the cup method.\\nPlace the larvae in aerated cups. Put some small shells in the cups, which the larvae can use. Put the cups into a sand substrate. Feed the larvae brine shrimp and spirulina.\\nYou can feed them three drops of live plankton per day.\\n3-2. Put young hermit crabs in a transition tank.\\nYour transition tank should be half beach and half marine water. Put in a couple of containers with salt and fresh water. Put a coconut in the tank, as well as some nice shells. Make sure the young hermit crabs have a ramp going from the sand to the water containers.\\nYoung hermit crabs like to eat their siblings.\\nUse regular marine salt water for the transition tank. You can purchase it at most pet stores.\\n3-3. Feed young hermit crabs a high-protein diet.\\nYou can give them marine copepods, which are available at the pet store. You could also give them frozen krill, marine crayfish or shrimp granules and a couple drops of live plankton.\\nFor fourteen days, try feeding them a mixture of brine shrimp, marine infusoria, and powdered spirulina.\\nWarnings\\nIt is very difficult but not quite impossible to breed hermit crabs in captivity, so don’t get your hopes up too much!\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"If you are hoping to breed hermit crabs, you could try setting up a blind date in a mating tank! Although it is very difficult to breed hermit crabs in captivity, you can give it a try by creating a nice environment for mating. It may take a few tries but your persistence could pay off with some young hermit crabs for your “crabitat.”\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Setting up The Mating Tank\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Set up a ten-gallon tank for mating.\", \"描述\": \"Although it is very difficult to breed hermit crabs in captivity, you can possibly do it in an indoor saltwater tank. In addition to the tank where you currently keep your hermit crabs, you can set up a separate tank that is devoted to mating. The minimum tank size is ten gallons.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Simulate a beach by adding two inches of sand.\", \"描述\": \"You’ll need to recreate the natural conditions for mating, which includes a beach and sea in your ten-gallon tank. At the bottom of your tank, add two inches of sand.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Make an ocean area by adding a saltwater container.\", \"描述\": \"Since the Mother crab will need to deposit her eggs in the sea, you’ll need to recreate a little ocean in the tank. Add a saltwater container in a low area of the tank. It should contain a mix of de-chlorinated water and an aquarium salt mix.\\nDon’t use regular table salt for the saltwater container.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Keep the temperature in the ideal range.\", \"描述\": \"Add a heat rock to maintain a temperature of between 24 and 28 Celsius (75-82 Fahrenheit). You should also locate the tank away from direct sunlight and drafts, since you want to maintain a consistent temperature during the mating process.\\nThe water in the tank should be between 72 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit (22-26 Celsius).\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Maintain 70% humidity with a garden sprayer.\", \"描述\": \"Because hermit crabs are very sensitive to humidity levels, you’ll want to maintain adequate levels of humidity throughout the breeding process. You can use a garden sprayer to mist the tank. You should also keep the sand substrate moist.\\nUse a hygrometer to measure humidity levels.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Create a relaxing atmosphere by adding nice scenery.\", \"描述\": \"You’ll need to create a relaxing atmosphere to get your hermit crabs into the mating mood! For instance, you could add some nice scenery to your mating tank. Adding some branches and vines to the tank will give your crabs a place to hide and something to climb around. This touch of nature will help create the right atmosphere.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Make a ramp leading down from the saltwater tank to ten-gallon tank.\", \"描述\": \"You can make it easy for the hermit crabs to move back and forth between the two tanks by making a ramp. In this way, the hermit crabs can crawl between their home and mating tanks.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Mating The Crabs\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Breed hermit crabs in the spring or summer.\", \"描述\": \"In captivity, hermit crabs breed between February and August. They typically breed in June and July, so try breeding your hermit crabs in the spring or summer.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Find a mature female in your crabitat.\", \"描述\": \"Look in your main hermit crab tank or “crabitat” for a mature female, which should be medium sized. Wait until the hermit crab comes most of the way out of her shell before checking to see if you have the right sex. Inspect her body for genitalia called gonophores, which are located close to the abdomen on the back of her legs. You should see two tiny holes.\\nIf you can’t see the two tiny holes, it is a male.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Pick a male from the crabitat.\", \"描述\": \"Pick a mature male crab from your main tank. You’ll need to wait for one of them to crawl out of its shell. At this time, you can inspect its body for genitalia called gonophores. If you can’t see two tiny holes at the back of the body, you have a male.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Place the crabs together.\", \"描述\": \"Put the two crabs in your newly created enclosure. If they don't mate, try a different combination of crabs.\\nBe aware that it is very uncommon for breeding in captivity to actually happen, so don't be discouraged if nothing happens.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Wait for a month for the eggs to hatch.\", \"描述\": \"It takes one month for the hermit crab eggs to hatch. Let the mother put the eggs in the saltwater container. The eggs should hatch when they touch the water.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Raising the Larvae\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Use the cup method.\", \"描述\": \"Place the larvae in aerated cups. Put some small shells in the cups, which the larvae can use. Put the cups into a sand substrate. Feed the larvae brine shrimp and spirulina.\\nYou can feed them three drops of live plankton per day.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Put young hermit crabs in a transition tank.\", \"描述\": \"Your transition tank should be half beach and half marine water. Put in a couple of containers with salt and fresh water. Put a coconut in the tank, as well as some nice shells. Make sure the young hermit crabs have a ramp going from the sand to the water containers.\\nYoung hermit crabs like to eat their siblings.\\nUse regular marine salt water for the transition tank. You can purchase it at most pet stores.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Feed young hermit crabs a high-protein diet.\", \"描述\": \"You can give them marine copepods, which are available at the pet store. You could also give them frozen krill, marine crayfish or shrimp granules and a couple drops of live plankton.\\nFor fourteen days, try feeding them a mixture of brine shrimp, marine infusoria, and powdered spirulina.\"}], \"注意事项\": [\"It is very difficult but not quite impossible to breed hermit crabs in captivity, so don’t get your hopes up too much!\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
6,932 |
How to Breed Horses in Minecraft
|
1. Taming the Horses
1-1. Gather at least 40 apples.
You'll want around 20 apples for each horse you need to tame. Apples make taming the horses significantly easier (and quicker) than attempting to tame them without food.
1-2. Find a horse.
Horses are typically found in flat, grassy areas such as Plains and Savannas.
1-3. Equip the apples.
In your equip bar at the bottom of the screen, make sure you have the apples selected before approaching the horse.
1-4. Select the horse until it stops eating.
Right-click or left-trigger the horse until you stop hearing crunching sounds and the horse starts bucking and neighing.
On Minecraft PE, you'll face the horse and tap exactly 20 times.
1-5. Switch to an empty hand.
This will allow you to mount the horse.
1-6. Select the horse.
Right-click or left-trigger the horse to do so. You should mount the horse at this point.
On Minecraft PE, you'll face the horse and tap at the bottom of the screen.
1-7. Wait for red hearts to appear.
Once red hearts appear around the horse, you have successfully tamed it. At this point, you can dismount by pressing left or the "Crouch" button.
If the horse bucks you off, mount it again and wait for the red hearts to appear. You may need to do this several times.
1-8. Tame another horse.
You'll need two tamed horses in order to breed them.
If your first tamed horse isn't following you around, you can enclose it in a two-block-tall area to keep it from wandering off.
1-9. Build a two-block-tall wall around the horses.
You can use any resource (e.g., dirt or sand) to do this, but the wall must be two blocks tall in order to prevent the horses from running away.
If you have enough fencing material in your inventory, you can use that to enclose the horses instead of using blocks.
You might want to leave some extra room in the enclosure since you'll be adding a third horse to the mix shortly.
2. Breeding the Horses
2-1. Gather the resources for golden apples.
You'll need two golden apples—one for each horse—which means you need the following resources:
2 apples — Used as the base for the golden apples.
16 gold bars — You can create gold bars by smelting gold ore in a furnace.
1 Crafting Table — Used to make the golden apples. If you don't yet have a Crafting Table, make one before proceeding.
2-2. Craft two golden apples.
This process will vary slightly depending on your platform:
PC — Open your Crafting Table, click the stack of gold bars, right-click twice each box in the Crafting Table except for the center one, place both apples in the center box, and move the two gold apples into your inventory.
Mobile — Open your Crafting Table, tap the magnifying glass icon on the left side of the screen, and tap twice the gold apple icon.
Consoles — Open your Crafting Table, select the magnifying glass tab, and select twice the gold apple icon.
2-3. Enter your horses' enclosure.
You'll want to make sure that neither of the horses escape when entering the enclosure.
2-4. Make sure that both horses are at full health.
Feeding a golden apple to a horse that you've accidentally attacked will result in the horse being fed rather than being primed for mating.
If your horses aren't both at full health, feed each of them red apples until they stop eating.
2-5. Equip the golden apples.
In your equip bar at the bottom of the screen, make sure you have the golden apples selected.
2-6. Select each horse.
Right-click or left-trigger each of the horses with the golden apples equipped. Doing so will prompt red hearts to appear over each horse's head, signifying that they're ready to breed.
On Minecraft PE, you'll face each horse and tap at the bottom of the screen.
2-7. Wait for a foal to appear.
After a few seconds, you should see a small horse appear in the enclosure. This is the foal that the two tamed horses created.
Tips
You can also find golden apples in chests located throughout the world, or occasionally purchase them in villages.
Warnings
The new horse will not be tame. If you want to own it, you will have to tame it when it becomes an adult.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:58:36",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Taming the Horses\\n1-1. Gather at least 40 apples.\\nYou'll want around 20 apples for each horse you need to tame. Apples make taming the horses significantly easier (and quicker) than attempting to tame them without food.\\n1-2. Find a horse.\\nHorses are typically found in flat, grassy areas such as Plains and Savannas.\\n1-3. Equip the apples.\\nIn your equip bar at the bottom of the screen, make sure you have the apples selected before approaching the horse.\\n1-4. Select the horse until it stops eating.\\nRight-click or left-trigger the horse until you stop hearing crunching sounds and the horse starts bucking and neighing.\\nOn Minecraft PE, you'll face the horse and tap exactly 20 times.\\n1-5. Switch to an empty hand.\\nThis will allow you to mount the horse.\\n1-6. Select the horse.\\nRight-click or left-trigger the horse to do so. You should mount the horse at this point.\\nOn Minecraft PE, you'll face the horse and tap at the bottom of the screen.\\n1-7. Wait for red hearts to appear.\\nOnce red hearts appear around the horse, you have successfully tamed it. At this point, you can dismount by pressing left or the \\\"Crouch\\\" button.\\nIf the horse bucks you off, mount it again and wait for the red hearts to appear. You may need to do this several times.\\n1-8. Tame another horse.\\nYou'll need two tamed horses in order to breed them.\\nIf your first tamed horse isn't following you around, you can enclose it in a two-block-tall area to keep it from wandering off.\\n1-9. Build a two-block-tall wall around the horses.\\nYou can use any resource (e.g., dirt or sand) to do this, but the wall must be two blocks tall in order to prevent the horses from running away.\\nIf you have enough fencing material in your inventory, you can use that to enclose the horses instead of using blocks.\\nYou might want to leave some extra room in the enclosure since you'll be adding a third horse to the mix shortly.\\n2. Breeding the Horses\\n2-1. Gather the resources for golden apples.\\nYou'll need two golden apples—one for each horse—which means you need the following resources:\\n\\n2 apples — Used as the base for the golden apples.\\n16 gold bars — You can create gold bars by smelting gold ore in a furnace.\\n1 Crafting Table — Used to make the golden apples. If you don't yet have a Crafting Table, make one before proceeding.\\n2-2. Craft two golden apples.\\nThis process will vary slightly depending on your platform:\\n\\nPC — Open your Crafting Table, click the stack of gold bars, right-click twice each box in the Crafting Table except for the center one, place both apples in the center box, and move the two gold apples into your inventory.\\nMobile — Open your Crafting Table, tap the magnifying glass icon on the left side of the screen, and tap twice the gold apple icon.\\nConsoles — Open your Crafting Table, select the magnifying glass tab, and select twice the gold apple icon.\\n2-3. Enter your horses' enclosure.\\nYou'll want to make sure that neither of the horses escape when entering the enclosure.\\n2-4. Make sure that both horses are at full health.\\nFeeding a golden apple to a horse that you've accidentally attacked will result in the horse being fed rather than being primed for mating.\\nIf your horses aren't both at full health, feed each of them red apples until they stop eating.\\n2-5. Equip the golden apples.\\nIn your equip bar at the bottom of the screen, make sure you have the golden apples selected.\\n2-6. Select each horse.\\nRight-click or left-trigger each of the horses with the golden apples equipped. Doing so will prompt red hearts to appear over each horse's head, signifying that they're ready to breed.\\nOn Minecraft PE, you'll face each horse and tap at the bottom of the screen.\\n2-7. Wait for a foal to appear.\\nAfter a few seconds, you should see a small horse appear in the enclosure. This is the foal that the two tamed horses created.\\nTips\\nYou can also find golden apples in chests located throughout the world, or occasionally purchase them in villages.\\nWarnings\\nThe new horse will not be tame. If you want to own it, you will have to tame it when it becomes an adult.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"This wikiHow teaches you how to breed two horses with each other in Minecraft. After taming two horses, you can have them create a foal by giving each of the horses a golden apple. Horse-breeding is possible on all versions of Minecraft including PC, Pocket Edition, and console editions.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Taming the Horses\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Gather at least 40 apples.\", \"描述\": \"You'll want around 20 apples for each horse you need to tame. Apples make taming the horses significantly easier (and quicker) than attempting to tame them without food.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Find a horse.\", \"描述\": \"Horses are typically found in flat, grassy areas such as Plains and Savannas.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Equip the apples.\", \"描述\": \"In your equip bar at the bottom of the screen, make sure you have the apples selected before approaching the horse.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Select the horse until it stops eating.\", \"描述\": \"Right-click or left-trigger the horse until you stop hearing crunching sounds and the horse starts bucking and neighing.\\nOn Minecraft PE, you'll face the horse and tap exactly 20 times.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Switch to an empty hand.\", \"描述\": \"This will allow you to mount the horse.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Select the horse.\", \"描述\": \"Right-click or left-trigger the horse to do so. You should mount the horse at this point.\\nOn Minecraft PE, you'll face the horse and tap at the bottom of the screen.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Wait for red hearts to appear.\", \"描述\": \"Once red hearts appear around the horse, you have successfully tamed it. At this point, you can dismount by pressing left or the \\\"Crouch\\\" button.\\nIf the horse bucks you off, mount it again and wait for the red hearts to appear. You may need to do this several times.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Tame another horse.\", \"描述\": \"You'll need two tamed horses in order to breed them.\\nIf your first tamed horse isn't following you around, you can enclose it in a two-block-tall area to keep it from wandering off.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Build a two-block-tall wall around the horses.\", \"描述\": \"You can use any resource (e.g., dirt or sand) to do this, but the wall must be two blocks tall in order to prevent the horses from running away.\\nIf you have enough fencing material in your inventory, you can use that to enclose the horses instead of using blocks.\\nYou might want to leave some extra room in the enclosure since you'll be adding a third horse to the mix shortly.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Breeding the Horses\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Gather the resources for golden apples.\", \"描述\": \"You'll need two golden apples—one for each horse—which means you need the following resources:\\n\\n2 apples — Used as the base for the golden apples.\\n16 gold bars — You can create gold bars by smelting gold ore in a furnace.\\n1 Crafting Table — Used to make the golden apples. If you don't yet have a Crafting Table, make one before proceeding.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Craft two golden apples.\", \"描述\": \"This process will vary slightly depending on your platform:\\n\\nPC — Open your Crafting Table, click the stack of gold bars, right-click twice each box in the Crafting Table except for the center one, place both apples in the center box, and move the two gold apples into your inventory.\\nMobile — Open your Crafting Table, tap the magnifying glass icon on the left side of the screen, and tap twice the gold apple icon.\\nConsoles — Open your Crafting Table, select the magnifying glass tab, and select twice the gold apple icon.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Enter your horses' enclosure.\", \"描述\": \"You'll want to make sure that neither of the horses escape when entering the enclosure.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Make sure that both horses are at full health.\", \"描述\": \"Feeding a golden apple to a horse that you've accidentally attacked will result in the horse being fed rather than being primed for mating.\\nIf your horses aren't both at full health, feed each of them red apples until they stop eating.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Equip the golden apples.\", \"描述\": \"In your equip bar at the bottom of the screen, make sure you have the golden apples selected.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Select each horse.\", \"描述\": \"Right-click or left-trigger each of the horses with the golden apples equipped. Doing so will prompt red hearts to appear over each horse's head, signifying that they're ready to breed.\\nOn Minecraft PE, you'll face each horse and tap at the bottom of the screen.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Wait for a foal to appear.\", \"描述\": \"After a few seconds, you should see a small horse appear in the enclosure. This is the foal that the two tamed horses created.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"You can also find golden apples in chests located throughout the world, or occasionally purchase them in villages.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"The new horse will not be tame. If you want to own it, you will have to tame it when it becomes an adult.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
6,933 |
How to Breed Husky Dogs
|
1. Choosing Suitable Huskies to Breed
1-1. Wait until the female is 2 years old.
Larger female dogs take a bit longer than males to mature. Female huskies aren't ready to breed until they are 2 years old or older. Don't breed her until she has her second heat cycle. She'll probably have her first heat cycle at 5 to 7 months, but her body isn't mature enough for breeding at that time.
Male dogs are mature after about 6 months.
1-2. Breed females with a calm and nurturing temperament.
The stud dog only needs to perform one job (getting the dog pregnant), but the dog must carry the puppies to term and care for them when they are young. A calm female dog is more likely to be a good mother to the pups.
Using a female with an aggressive temperament can result in unhealthy or aggressive puppies.
1-3. Make sure both dogs are registered with a kennel club.
If maintaining a pure husky bloodline is important to you, both dogs should be registered with the American Kennel Club (AKC), the Continental Kennel Club (CKC) or the United Kennel Club (UKC).
Both dogs need to be registered with the same club in order for the puppies to be eligible for registration.
Only purebred dogs can be registered with the AKC.
Research the bloodlines of both dogs to learn about potential health problems or temperament issues. Try running a Google search using key words like "husky bloodlines" and "breeding husky bloodlines." You can also visit http://siberian-husky-bloodlines.seppalasleddogs.com/index.htm.
1-4. Have a vet perform a physical on both dogs 4 weeks before breeding.
Both dogs should have a thorough veterinary check-up about a month before breeding begins. Get them up-to-date on vaccinations and make sure they're free from parasites. Have them screened for brucellosis, which is a disease that can cause infertility.
It's also a good idea to ask the vet to screen both dogs for evidence of hip dysplasia.
The bitch should have good muscle tone and should not be overweight.
1-5. Have both dogs' eyes checked by a canine ophthalmologist.
Genetic disorders of the eyes are common in huskies. These disorders can appear at any age, so it is important to have your dogs' eyes checked once a year. Have a screening performed on both dogs prior to breeding.
2. Mating the Huskies at the Right Time
2-1. Recognize when the female dog goes into heat.
Look for signs of proestrus, or the first period of your dog’s heat cycle. During proestrus, your dog may bleed and her vulva may become swollen, but she will not accept a mate. After around 9 days, you dog will move into the second period of her heat cycle, known as estrus. During estrus—which also lasts about 9 days—your dog will be fertile.
If you think your dog might be in heat but you are not sure, bring the dog in to see the vet.
2-2. Mate the dogs after the female enters the estrus portion of her cycle.
The most fertile time for dogs is usually between the 10th and 14th day after the beginning of her heat cycle (proestrus). You can bring the dogs together for mating every other day until they have mated 2 or 3 times total.
The ideal mating window lasts about 5-9 days.
Females are generally more comfortable in new environments than males. For this reason, the dog is usually brought to the stud.
2-3. Keep her away from other male dogs after mating her.
If allowed to be around other male dogs, she may become pregnant with their puppies instead. After mating her with your chosen male, keep her in a restricted area away from all other male dogs.
2-4. Take her to the vet once she begins showing signs of pregnancy.
Signs of pregnancy in your husky can include increased appetite, weight gain, and enlarged nipples. You may be able to spot them as early as 3 weeks after breeding. After about 28 days, you can bring your dog to the vet to have the pregnancy confirmed. Your vet will use ultrasound, palpitations, or X-rays to diagnose a pregnancy.
Sometimes dogs will show these symptoms when they are not pregnant.
2-5. Wait a full season after pregnancy before breeding the female again.
Female huskies should not be bred in 2 consecutive seasons. Even if the pregnancy was not viable, wait a full heat season before trying to breed her again. A heat season usually comes about every 6 months, although it may be delayed following a pregnancy.
Pregnancy is difficult on your dog’s body. For her own safety and the safety of future puppies, she needs time to recover.
3. Caring for a Pregnant Female
3-1. Feed your pregnant dog nutritious food at least twice daily.
A healthy bitch can continue to eat a normal diet during the first part of her pregnancy. As her body weight increases, her food intake can be increased gradually. Keep her food intake the same for the 5 to 6 weeks of pregnancy. After the sixth week, slowly increase her food intake. By the time she's ready to birth, she should be eating 35-50% more food that usual.
Feed her at least twice daily -- morning and night. It's better to feed her 3 times a day -- morning, noon, and evening.
Some breeders recommend adding an additional protein source to your pregnant dog’s diet, such as evaporated milk, eggs, meat, or liver.
Providing small, frequent meals can help your pregnant dog feel more comfortable.
3-2. Prepare a whelping box.
Choose a place that is warm, dry, quiet, and separate from other dogs. Create a roomy box that has low sides. Bring her into the box every day so that she gets used to the area. Pet her and make sure time spent in the box is a positive experience for her.
Create a whelping box well in advance, so that your dog has time to get used to it.
You can purchase a whelping box, build one from wood, or repurpose a large plastic container.
3-3. Prepare for the arrival of the puppies after 63 days of pregnancy.
Husky gestation lasts about 63 days. When the arrival of the puppies is getting close, gather some supplies. Some things you may need include:
Newspaper for bedding
Bath mats or towels for bedding
Towels for cleaning the puppies
Paper towels for cleaning the whelping box
Thermometer to check the bitch’s temperature
Heating pad to keep puppies warm
Dental floss (unwaxed) for tying the puppies umbilical cords
Sharp scissors to cut the umbilical cord
Iodine to clean the umbilical cord.
3-4. Line the box with newspaper right before she gives birth.
At the time of the birth, you may want to line the box with newspapers so that it can be changed several times a day. After a few days, you can switch to towels or other soft materials. These will still need to be changed about once a day.
3-5. Watch for the first signs of labor.
A few days before she is ready to give birth, your bitch may stop eating and start creating a "nest." About 1 day prior to giving birth, your bitch’s body temperature should drop to around 99 °F (37 °C). During the first stage of labor, her cervix will dilate. Contractions will begin and she may whine and appear distressed or confused. You might notice her panting, straining, or moving around restlessly.
This stage usually lasts 6 to 18 hours.
Ideally, your dog will build her birthing nest in the whelping box you provided.
3-6. Watch for her water to break and full labor to begin.
When her water breaks, this signals the second and final stage of her labor. The water looks like straw-colored liquid. Her contractions will get more intense after this and she'll go into labor very soon after her water breaks. Puppies will appear sporadically every thirty minutes or so once full labor begins.
Labor typically lasts about 4 hours.
Most dogs will give birth easily without the need of human help.
3-7. Know when to contact a vet.
In most cases, mother dogs will give birth all on their own without much assistance. However, make sure you have your veterinarian's phone number and the number for local emergency animal clinic ready in case of emergency. Contact your vet if:
The mother appears to be in extreme pain.
The mother has powerful contractions for more than 45 minutes without the birth of a pup.
More than two hours pass between the delivery of puppies.
The mother dog is trembling or shivering.
The mother dog collapses.
A dark green or bloody fluid comes out before the birth of the first puppy. (After the first puppy, this is OK.)
The mother shows no signs of labor 64 or more days after mating.
4. Caring for Newborn Puppies
4-1. Make sure the mother is licking and cleaning each newborn pup.
The mother dog should remove the membrane from its face so the pup can breathe, chew the umbilical cord, and lick each puppy to stimulate its breathing. If she neglects to do any of these things, you may need to intervene.
Tear the sac membrane near the puppy's head, peel it backwards, and remove the puppy.
Use a washcloth to remove mucus from the puppy's mouth and nose. Then rub the puppy all over to stimulate breathing.
Tie the umbilical cord using unwaxed dental floss. Use sharp scissors to cut the cord about 2 inches (5.1 cm) away from the abdomen on the far side of the knot. Treat the cut with iodine to prevent infection.
4-2. Let the puppies nurse as soon as they're born.
This is crucial for the puppies because it allows them to ingest colostrum (or newborn milk) with important antibodies. Colostrum helps the puppies fight infection while their immune systems continue to develop.
It a good idea to weigh the puppies after birth and then every other day for the first 2 weeks. They should gain a little weight with every weigh-in.
4-3. Keep the puppies warm.
Newborn puppies are not able to maintain their own body temperature. For the first 5 days, keep the whelping area between 85 °F (29 °C) and 90 °F (32 °C). For the next 5 days, you can reduce the temperature to 80 °F (27 °C). After 4 weeks, you can bring the temperature down to 75 °F (24 °C).
4-4. Make sure the puppies eat every 2 hours for the first week.
After the first week, growth will start increasing rapidly and they may need to eat even more frequently -- possibly every hour or so. This is totally normal and a good sign they're developing well. Start transitioning the puppies to solid food after 4 weeks.
4-5. Find good homes for the puppies
People sometimes purchase puppies without realizing how much care, attention, and time they need. Ensure that a new owner will treat your puppy properly before handing over the dog.
Interview potential puppy-owners to find about their lifestyle, and whether or not they seem up to the responsibility of raising a husky.
Perform a home visit to make sure they have a suitable space.
Get their driver’s license number and do a background check to make sure they no have a history of animal neglect or abuse.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:58:37",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Choosing Suitable Huskies to Breed\\n1-1. Wait until the female is 2 years old.\\nLarger female dogs take a bit longer than males to mature. Female huskies aren't ready to breed until they are 2 years old or older. Don't breed her until she has her second heat cycle. She'll probably have her first heat cycle at 5 to 7 months, but her body isn't mature enough for breeding at that time.\\nMale dogs are mature after about 6 months.\\n1-2. Breed females with a calm and nurturing temperament.\\nThe stud dog only needs to perform one job (getting the dog pregnant), but the dog must carry the puppies to term and care for them when they are young. A calm female dog is more likely to be a good mother to the pups.\\nUsing a female with an aggressive temperament can result in unhealthy or aggressive puppies.\\n1-3. Make sure both dogs are registered with a kennel club.\\nIf maintaining a pure husky bloodline is important to you, both dogs should be registered with the American Kennel Club (AKC), the Continental Kennel Club (CKC) or the United Kennel Club (UKC).\\nBoth dogs need to be registered with the same club in order for the puppies to be eligible for registration.\\nOnly purebred dogs can be registered with the AKC.\\nResearch the bloodlines of both dogs to learn about potential health problems or temperament issues. Try running a Google search using key words like \\\"husky bloodlines\\\" and \\\"breeding husky bloodlines.\\\" You can also visit http://siberian-husky-bloodlines.seppalasleddogs.com/index.htm.\\n1-4. Have a vet perform a physical on both dogs 4 weeks before breeding.\\nBoth dogs should have a thorough veterinary check-up about a month before breeding begins. Get them up-to-date on vaccinations and make sure they're free from parasites. Have them screened for brucellosis, which is a disease that can cause infertility.\\nIt's also a good idea to ask the vet to screen both dogs for evidence of hip dysplasia.\\nThe bitch should have good muscle tone and should not be overweight.\\n1-5. Have both dogs' eyes checked by a canine ophthalmologist.\\nGenetic disorders of the eyes are common in huskies. These disorders can appear at any age, so it is important to have your dogs' eyes checked once a year. Have a screening performed on both dogs prior to breeding.\\n2. Mating the Huskies at the Right Time\\n2-1. Recognize when the female dog goes into heat.\\nLook for signs of proestrus, or the first period of your dog’s heat cycle. During proestrus, your dog may bleed and her vulva may become swollen, but she will not accept a mate. After around 9 days, you dog will move into the second period of her heat cycle, known as estrus. During estrus—which also lasts about 9 days—your dog will be fertile.\\nIf you think your dog might be in heat but you are not sure, bring the dog in to see the vet.\\n2-2. Mate the dogs after the female enters the estrus portion of her cycle.\\nThe most fertile time for dogs is usually between the 10th and 14th day after the beginning of her heat cycle (proestrus). You can bring the dogs together for mating every other day until they have mated 2 or 3 times total.\\nThe ideal mating window lasts about 5-9 days.\\nFemales are generally more comfortable in new environments than males. For this reason, the dog is usually brought to the stud.\\n2-3. Keep her away from other male dogs after mating her.\\nIf allowed to be around other male dogs, she may become pregnant with their puppies instead. After mating her with your chosen male, keep her in a restricted area away from all other male dogs.\\n2-4. Take her to the vet once she begins showing signs of pregnancy.\\nSigns of pregnancy in your husky can include increased appetite, weight gain, and enlarged nipples. You may be able to spot them as early as 3 weeks after breeding. After about 28 days, you can bring your dog to the vet to have the pregnancy confirmed. Your vet will use ultrasound, palpitations, or X-rays to diagnose a pregnancy.\\nSometimes dogs will show these symptoms when they are not pregnant.\\n2-5. Wait a full season after pregnancy before breeding the female again.\\nFemale huskies should not be bred in 2 consecutive seasons. Even if the pregnancy was not viable, wait a full heat season before trying to breed her again. A heat season usually comes about every 6 months, although it may be delayed following a pregnancy.\\nPregnancy is difficult on your dog’s body. For her own safety and the safety of future puppies, she needs time to recover.\\n3. Caring for a Pregnant Female\\n3-1. Feed your pregnant dog nutritious food at least twice daily.\\nA healthy bitch can continue to eat a normal diet during the first part of her pregnancy. As her body weight increases, her food intake can be increased gradually. Keep her food intake the same for the 5 to 6 weeks of pregnancy. After the sixth week, slowly increase her food intake. By the time she's ready to birth, she should be eating 35-50% more food that usual.\\nFeed her at least twice daily -- morning and night. It's better to feed her 3 times a day -- morning, noon, and evening.\\nSome breeders recommend adding an additional protein source to your pregnant dog’s diet, such as evaporated milk, eggs, meat, or liver.\\nProviding small, frequent meals can help your pregnant dog feel more comfortable.\\n3-2. Prepare a whelping box.\\nChoose a place that is warm, dry, quiet, and separate from other dogs. Create a roomy box that has low sides. Bring her into the box every day so that she gets used to the area. Pet her and make sure time spent in the box is a positive experience for her.\\nCreate a whelping box well in advance, so that your dog has time to get used to it.\\nYou can purchase a whelping box, build one from wood, or repurpose a large plastic container.\\n3-3. Prepare for the arrival of the puppies after 63 days of pregnancy.\\nHusky gestation lasts about 63 days. When the arrival of the puppies is getting close, gather some supplies. Some things you may need include:\\nNewspaper for bedding\\nBath mats or towels for bedding\\nTowels for cleaning the puppies\\nPaper towels for cleaning the whelping box\\nThermometer to check the bitch’s temperature\\nHeating pad to keep puppies warm\\nDental floss (unwaxed) for tying the puppies umbilical cords\\nSharp scissors to cut the umbilical cord\\nIodine to clean the umbilical cord.\\n3-4. Line the box with newspaper right before she gives birth.\\nAt the time of the birth, you may want to line the box with newspapers so that it can be changed several times a day. After a few days, you can switch to towels or other soft materials. These will still need to be changed about once a day.\\n3-5. Watch for the first signs of labor.\\nA few days before she is ready to give birth, your bitch may stop eating and start creating a \\\"nest.\\\" About 1 day prior to giving birth, your bitch’s body temperature should drop to around 99 °F (37 °C). During the first stage of labor, her cervix will dilate. Contractions will begin and she may whine and appear distressed or confused. You might notice her panting, straining, or moving around restlessly.\\nThis stage usually lasts 6 to 18 hours.\\nIdeally, your dog will build her birthing nest in the whelping box you provided.\\n3-6. Watch for her water to break and full labor to begin.\\nWhen her water breaks, this signals the second and final stage of her labor. The water looks like straw-colored liquid. Her contractions will get more intense after this and she'll go into labor very soon after her water breaks. Puppies will appear sporadically every thirty minutes or so once full labor begins.\\nLabor typically lasts about 4 hours.\\nMost dogs will give birth easily without the need of human help.\\n3-7. Know when to contact a vet.\\nIn most cases, mother dogs will give birth all on their own without much assistance. However, make sure you have your veterinarian's phone number and the number for local emergency animal clinic ready in case of emergency. Contact your vet if:\\nThe mother appears to be in extreme pain.\\nThe mother has powerful contractions for more than 45 minutes without the birth of a pup.\\nMore than two hours pass between the delivery of puppies.\\nThe mother dog is trembling or shivering.\\nThe mother dog collapses.\\nA dark green or bloody fluid comes out before the birth of the first puppy. (After the first puppy, this is OK.)\\nThe mother shows no signs of labor 64 or more days after mating.\\n4. Caring for Newborn Puppies\\n4-1. Make sure the mother is licking and cleaning each newborn pup.\\nThe mother dog should remove the membrane from its face so the pup can breathe, chew the umbilical cord, and lick each puppy to stimulate its breathing. If she neglects to do any of these things, you may need to intervene.\\nTear the sac membrane near the puppy's head, peel it backwards, and remove the puppy.\\nUse a washcloth to remove mucus from the puppy's mouth and nose. Then rub the puppy all over to stimulate breathing.\\nTie the umbilical cord using unwaxed dental floss. Use sharp scissors to cut the cord about 2 inches (5.1 cm) away from the abdomen on the far side of the knot. Treat the cut with iodine to prevent infection.\\n4-2. Let the puppies nurse as soon as they're born.\\nThis is crucial for the puppies because it allows them to ingest colostrum (or newborn milk) with important antibodies. Colostrum helps the puppies fight infection while their immune systems continue to develop.\\nIt a good idea to weigh the puppies after birth and then every other day for the first 2 weeks. They should gain a little weight with every weigh-in.\\n4-3. Keep the puppies warm.\\nNewborn puppies are not able to maintain their own body temperature. For the first 5 days, keep the whelping area between 85 °F (29 °C) and 90 °F (32 °C). For the next 5 days, you can reduce the temperature to 80 °F (27 °C). After 4 weeks, you can bring the temperature down to 75 °F (24 °C).\\n4-4. Make sure the puppies eat every 2 hours for the first week.\\nAfter the first week, growth will start increasing rapidly and they may need to eat even more frequently -- possibly every hour or so. This is totally normal and a good sign they're developing well. Start transitioning the puppies to solid food after 4 weeks.\\n4-5. Find good homes for the puppies\\nPeople sometimes purchase puppies without realizing how much care, attention, and time they need. Ensure that a new owner will treat your puppy properly before handing over the dog.\\nInterview potential puppy-owners to find about their lifestyle, and whether or not they seem up to the responsibility of raising a husky.\\nPerform a home visit to make sure they have a suitable space.\\nGet their driver’s license number and do a background check to make sure they no have a history of animal neglect or abuse.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Siberian huskies are known for being compassionate, hardworking, and intelligent dogs. Breeding huskies involves finding healthy dogs who are registered with a kennel club, determining when the female is fertile, caring for the female during and after pregnancy, and caring for the husky pups. As with any dog, breeding huskies is a serious undertaking and should not be taken lightly.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Choosing Suitable Huskies to Breed\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Wait until the female is 2 years old.\", \"描述\": \"Larger female dogs take a bit longer than males to mature. Female huskies aren't ready to breed until they are 2 years old or older. Don't breed her until she has her second heat cycle. She'll probably have her first heat cycle at 5 to 7 months, but her body isn't mature enough for breeding at that time.\\nMale dogs are mature after about 6 months.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Breed females with a calm and nurturing temperament.\", \"描述\": \"The stud dog only needs to perform one job (getting the dog pregnant), but the dog must carry the puppies to term and care for them when they are young. A calm female dog is more likely to be a good mother to the pups.\\nUsing a female with an aggressive temperament can result in unhealthy or aggressive puppies.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Make sure both dogs are registered with a kennel club.\", \"描述\": \"If maintaining a pure husky bloodline is important to you, both dogs should be registered with the American Kennel Club (AKC), the Continental Kennel Club (CKC) or the United Kennel Club (UKC).\\nBoth dogs need to be registered with the same club in order for the puppies to be eligible for registration.\\nOnly purebred dogs can be registered with the AKC.\\nResearch the bloodlines of both dogs to learn about potential health problems or temperament issues. Try running a Google search using key words like \\\"husky bloodlines\\\" and \\\"breeding husky bloodlines.\\\" You can also visit http://siberian-husky-bloodlines.seppalasleddogs.com/index.htm.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Have a vet perform a physical on both dogs 4 weeks before breeding.\", \"描述\": \"Both dogs should have a thorough veterinary check-up about a month before breeding begins. Get them up-to-date on vaccinations and make sure they're free from parasites. Have them screened for brucellosis, which is a disease that can cause infertility.\\nIt's also a good idea to ask the vet to screen both dogs for evidence of hip dysplasia.\\nThe bitch should have good muscle tone and should not be overweight.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Have both dogs' eyes checked by a canine ophthalmologist.\", \"描述\": \"Genetic disorders of the eyes are common in huskies. These disorders can appear at any age, so it is important to have your dogs' eyes checked once a year. Have a screening performed on both dogs prior to breeding.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Mating the Huskies at the Right Time\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Recognize when the female dog goes into heat.\", \"描述\": \"Look for signs of proestrus, or the first period of your dog’s heat cycle. During proestrus, your dog may bleed and her vulva may become swollen, but she will not accept a mate. After around 9 days, you dog will move into the second period of her heat cycle, known as estrus. During estrus—which also lasts about 9 days—your dog will be fertile.\\nIf you think your dog might be in heat but you are not sure, bring the dog in to see the vet.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Mate the dogs after the female enters the estrus portion of her cycle.\", \"描述\": \"The most fertile time for dogs is usually between the 10th and 14th day after the beginning of her heat cycle (proestrus). You can bring the dogs together for mating every other day until they have mated 2 or 3 times total.\\nThe ideal mating window lasts about 5-9 days.\\nFemales are generally more comfortable in new environments than males. For this reason, the dog is usually brought to the stud.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Keep her away from other male dogs after mating her.\", \"描述\": \"If allowed to be around other male dogs, she may become pregnant with their puppies instead. After mating her with your chosen male, keep her in a restricted area away from all other male dogs.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Take her to the vet once she begins showing signs of pregnancy.\", \"描述\": \"Signs of pregnancy in your husky can include increased appetite, weight gain, and enlarged nipples. You may be able to spot them as early as 3 weeks after breeding. After about 28 days, you can bring your dog to the vet to have the pregnancy confirmed. Your vet will use ultrasound, palpitations, or X-rays to diagnose a pregnancy.\\nSometimes dogs will show these symptoms when they are not pregnant.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Wait a full season after pregnancy before breeding the female again.\", \"描述\": \"Female huskies should not be bred in 2 consecutive seasons. Even if the pregnancy was not viable, wait a full heat season before trying to breed her again. A heat season usually comes about every 6 months, although it may be delayed following a pregnancy.\\nPregnancy is difficult on your dog’s body. For her own safety and the safety of future puppies, she needs time to recover.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Caring for a Pregnant Female\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Feed your pregnant dog nutritious food at least twice daily.\", \"描述\": \"A healthy bitch can continue to eat a normal diet during the first part of her pregnancy. As her body weight increases, her food intake can be increased gradually. Keep her food intake the same for the 5 to 6 weeks of pregnancy. After the sixth week, slowly increase her food intake. By the time she's ready to birth, she should be eating 35-50% more food that usual.\\nFeed her at least twice daily -- morning and night. It's better to feed her 3 times a day -- morning, noon, and evening.\\nSome breeders recommend adding an additional protein source to your pregnant dog’s diet, such as evaporated milk, eggs, meat, or liver.\\nProviding small, frequent meals can help your pregnant dog feel more comfortable.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Prepare a whelping box.\", \"描述\": \"Choose a place that is warm, dry, quiet, and separate from other dogs. Create a roomy box that has low sides. Bring her into the box every day so that she gets used to the area. Pet her and make sure time spent in the box is a positive experience for her.\\nCreate a whelping box well in advance, so that your dog has time to get used to it.\\nYou can purchase a whelping box, build one from wood, or repurpose a large plastic container.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Prepare for the arrival of the puppies after 63 days of pregnancy.\", \"描述\": \"Husky gestation lasts about 63 days. When the arrival of the puppies is getting close, gather some supplies. Some things you may need include:\\nNewspaper for bedding\\nBath mats or towels for bedding\\nTowels for cleaning the puppies\\nPaper towels for cleaning the whelping box\\nThermometer to check the bitch’s temperature\\nHeating pad to keep puppies warm\\nDental floss (unwaxed) for tying the puppies umbilical cords\\nSharp scissors to cut the umbilical cord\\nIodine to clean the umbilical cord.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Line the box with newspaper right before she gives birth.\", \"描述\": \"At the time of the birth, you may want to line the box with newspapers so that it can be changed several times a day. After a few days, you can switch to towels or other soft materials. These will still need to be changed about once a day.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Watch for the first signs of labor.\", \"描述\": \"A few days before she is ready to give birth, your bitch may stop eating and start creating a \\\"nest.\\\" About 1 day prior to giving birth, your bitch’s body temperature should drop to around 99 °F (37 °C). During the first stage of labor, her cervix will dilate. Contractions will begin and she may whine and appear distressed or confused. You might notice her panting, straining, or moving around restlessly.\\nThis stage usually lasts 6 to 18 hours.\\nIdeally, your dog will build her birthing nest in the whelping box you provided.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Watch for her water to break and full labor to begin.\", \"描述\": \"When her water breaks, this signals the second and final stage of her labor. The water looks like straw-colored liquid. Her contractions will get more intense after this and she'll go into labor very soon after her water breaks. Puppies will appear sporadically every thirty minutes or so once full labor begins.\\nLabor typically lasts about 4 hours.\\nMost dogs will give birth easily without the need of human help.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Know when to contact a vet.\", \"描述\": \"In most cases, mother dogs will give birth all on their own without much assistance. However, make sure you have your veterinarian's phone number and the number for local emergency animal clinic ready in case of emergency. Contact your vet if:\\nThe mother appears to be in extreme pain.\\nThe mother has powerful contractions for more than 45 minutes without the birth of a pup.\\nMore than two hours pass between the delivery of puppies.\\nThe mother dog is trembling or shivering.\\nThe mother dog collapses.\\nA dark green or bloody fluid comes out before the birth of the first puppy. (After the first puppy, this is OK.)\\nThe mother shows no signs of labor 64 or more days after mating.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Caring for Newborn Puppies\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Make sure the mother is licking and cleaning each newborn pup.\", \"描述\": \"The mother dog should remove the membrane from its face so the pup can breathe, chew the umbilical cord, and lick each puppy to stimulate its breathing. If she neglects to do any of these things, you may need to intervene.\\nTear the sac membrane near the puppy's head, peel it backwards, and remove the puppy.\\nUse a washcloth to remove mucus from the puppy's mouth and nose. Then rub the puppy all over to stimulate breathing.\\nTie the umbilical cord using unwaxed dental floss. Use sharp scissors to cut the cord about 2 inches (5.1 cm) away from the abdomen on the far side of the knot. Treat the cut with iodine to prevent infection.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Let the puppies nurse as soon as they're born.\", \"描述\": \"This is crucial for the puppies because it allows them to ingest colostrum (or newborn milk) with important antibodies. Colostrum helps the puppies fight infection while their immune systems continue to develop.\\nIt a good idea to weigh the puppies after birth and then every other day for the first 2 weeks. They should gain a little weight with every weigh-in.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Keep the puppies warm.\", \"描述\": \"Newborn puppies are not able to maintain their own body temperature. For the first 5 days, keep the whelping area between 85 °F (29 °C) and 90 °F (32 °C). For the next 5 days, you can reduce the temperature to 80 °F (27 °C). After 4 weeks, you can bring the temperature down to 75 °F (24 °C).\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Make sure the puppies eat every 2 hours for the first week.\", \"描述\": \"After the first week, growth will start increasing rapidly and they may need to eat even more frequently -- possibly every hour or so. This is totally normal and a good sign they're developing well. Start transitioning the puppies to solid food after 4 weeks.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Find good homes for the puppies\", \"描述\": \"People sometimes purchase puppies without realizing how much care, attention, and time they need. Ensure that a new owner will treat your puppy properly before handing over the dog.\\nInterview potential puppy-owners to find about their lifestyle, and whether or not they seem up to the responsibility of raising a husky.\\nPerform a home visit to make sure they have a suitable space.\\nGet their driver’s license number and do a background check to make sure they no have a history of animal neglect or abuse.\"}]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
6,934 |
How to Breed Isopods
|
1. Building the Habitat
1-1. Line the bottom of a plastic tub with soil and sand.
Use clean potting soil and sand so you don’t bring in any outside contaminants. Put 1 in (2.5 cm) of potting soil on half of a 14 × 8 × 5 in (36 × 20 × 13 cm) plastic tub. Then, lay 1 in (2.5 cm) of sand on the opposite side as the soil.
If you don’t have sand or potting soil, you can also use coir fiber from a gardening store.
1-2. Dry leaves and bark in the oven before adding it to your habitat.
Look for fallen leaves and bark from trees outside in your area. A handful of each should be enough for a thin layer. Put the leaves and bark on a cooking tray and place them in an oven heated to 200 °F (93 °C) for 5–10 minutes. Drying out the leaves and bark helps get rid of outside bacteria and contaminants. When they’re finished drying out, layer the leaves and branches on the soil side to make a naturalistic habitat for your isopods.
Make sure to use leaves or bark that haven’t been treated with any pesticides.
1-3. Mist the leaves with a spray bottle and purified water.
Moisture in the habitat gives your isopod access to water as well as keeps it humid. Fill a spray bottle with purified water so you don’t introduce any contaminants, such as added minerals, to your habitat. Spray the sand, soil, and leaves so they’re slightly wet, but not so much that it makes standing water.
1-4. Set cardboard squares in your habitat to give your isopods shelter.
Cut 2-3 squares of cardboard that are about 2 in × 3 in (5.1 cm × 7.6 cm). Set the squares so they overlap with one another on either side of your tank. This gives your isopods somewhere to hide during the daytime since they’re most active at night.
Make sure the cardboard is untreated and unpainted or else it could harm your isopods.
2. Caring for Your Isopods
2-1. Collect your isopods from the wild or a culture set.
If you plan on capturing your isopods from the wild, start by looking underneath stones and logs. Use your fingers to guide or push them into a plastic container so you can transfer them to their new habitat. If you don’t want to search for your own, see if you can purchase isopod cultures online or from your local pet store. Aim to find between 20-30 isopods to put into your tank to encourage breeding.
2-2. Mist the habitat every day so it doesn’t dry out.
Remove the lid from your isopod habitat and lightly mist the substrate with your spray bottle. Make sure the soil and sand is damp to the touch, but not so wet that there’s standing water on the surface.
Leave one side of your habitat less wet so the isopods can regulate how much moisture they want on their own.
If you’re going to be away for a couple of days, completely saturate a paper towel and set it in the sandy side of your tank.
2-3. Leave carrot shavings, small pieces of lettuce, or fish flakes for food.
While your isopods will eat the leaves in their habitat, adding small pieces of fruits and vegetables offers other nutrients to keep your isopods healthy. Tear off small pieces of the food you plan on putting in your habitat and spread it evenly throughout the tub. Otherwise, sprinkle a pinch of high-quality fish flakes throughout the tank. Replace the food whenever you notice it starting to mold, or about once a week.
Try different foods, such as apples and mangoes, to see what your isopods prefer to eat.
Add more leaves every 2–3 weeks to keep your isopods fed.
2-4. Replace half of the substrate every 6 months.
Over time, your substrate will get dirty and should be replaced. Remove half of the soil and sand from the tank and replace it so your isopods have a clean habitat.
The substrate you remove will have isopods buried underneath. Use the substrate you take out to start another habitat in a second plastic container if you want. Otherwise, dispose of it outside.
3. Harvesting Isopods
3-1. Check underneath pieces of bark or cardboard for new isopods after 1 month.
Isopods usually breed within 2 weeks to 1 month. After a month has passed, lift up any of the cardboard and wood pieces in your tank and look underneath them for isopods. You should easily be able to find about 50 isopods, if not more.
Harvest later in the evening since isopods are more active when it’s dark at night.
3-2. Transfer the isopods you want to use into a smaller plastic container.
Use your fingers to pick your isopods out from the substrate or to scrape them off the piece of wood you lifted. Keep a smaller container next to your main habitat so you don’t accidentally drop the isopods. Return any other isopods back to the habitat.
3-3. Give your isopods to a pet reptile or amphibian for a snack.
Small reptiles and amphibians, such as geckos and tree frogs, can’t survive off of eating isopods alone, but they make a tasty treat every so often. Put a few isopods in your pet’s tank so it has a chance to hunt and try new foods.
Even if your pet doesn’t eat the isopods immediately, the isopods can breed in its tank for your pet to hunt later.
3-4. Put isopods in a vivarium to clean up plant waste in the tank.
Vivariums are tanks that house different plant life and sometimes animals. Put 10-15 of your isopods in your vivarium so they can burrow in the soil and clean the tank so you don’t have to. Let the isopods breed in your vivarium so you don’t have to worry about them.
Tips
Isopods will breed at room temperature, but you may have more success if the habitat is near 80 °F (27 °C).[18]
X
Research source
Warnings
Keep isopod habitats out of direct sunlight so the container doesn’t overheat.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:58:37",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Building the Habitat\\n1-1. Line the bottom of a plastic tub with soil and sand.\\nUse clean potting soil and sand so you don’t bring in any outside contaminants. Put 1 in (2.5 cm) of potting soil on half of a 14 × 8 × 5 in (36 × 20 × 13 cm) plastic tub. Then, lay 1 in (2.5 cm) of sand on the opposite side as the soil.\\nIf you don’t have sand or potting soil, you can also use coir fiber from a gardening store.\\n1-2. Dry leaves and bark in the oven before adding it to your habitat.\\nLook for fallen leaves and bark from trees outside in your area. A handful of each should be enough for a thin layer. Put the leaves and bark on a cooking tray and place them in an oven heated to 200 °F (93 °C) for 5–10 minutes. Drying out the leaves and bark helps get rid of outside bacteria and contaminants. When they’re finished drying out, layer the leaves and branches on the soil side to make a naturalistic habitat for your isopods.\\nMake sure to use leaves or bark that haven’t been treated with any pesticides.\\n1-3. Mist the leaves with a spray bottle and purified water.\\nMoisture in the habitat gives your isopod access to water as well as keeps it humid. Fill a spray bottle with purified water so you don’t introduce any contaminants, such as added minerals, to your habitat. Spray the sand, soil, and leaves so they’re slightly wet, but not so much that it makes standing water.\\n1-4. Set cardboard squares in your habitat to give your isopods shelter.\\nCut 2-3 squares of cardboard that are about 2 in × 3 in (5.1 cm × 7.6 cm). Set the squares so they overlap with one another on either side of your tank. This gives your isopods somewhere to hide during the daytime since they’re most active at night.\\nMake sure the cardboard is untreated and unpainted or else it could harm your isopods.\\n2. Caring for Your Isopods\\n2-1. Collect your isopods from the wild or a culture set.\\nIf you plan on capturing your isopods from the wild, start by looking underneath stones and logs. Use your fingers to guide or push them into a plastic container so you can transfer them to their new habitat. If you don’t want to search for your own, see if you can purchase isopod cultures online or from your local pet store. Aim to find between 20-30 isopods to put into your tank to encourage breeding.\\n2-2. Mist the habitat every day so it doesn’t dry out.\\nRemove the lid from your isopod habitat and lightly mist the substrate with your spray bottle. Make sure the soil and sand is damp to the touch, but not so wet that there’s standing water on the surface.\\nLeave one side of your habitat less wet so the isopods can regulate how much moisture they want on their own.\\nIf you’re going to be away for a couple of days, completely saturate a paper towel and set it in the sandy side of your tank.\\n2-3. Leave carrot shavings, small pieces of lettuce, or fish flakes for food.\\nWhile your isopods will eat the leaves in their habitat, adding small pieces of fruits and vegetables offers other nutrients to keep your isopods healthy. Tear off small pieces of the food you plan on putting in your habitat and spread it evenly throughout the tub. Otherwise, sprinkle a pinch of high-quality fish flakes throughout the tank. Replace the food whenever you notice it starting to mold, or about once a week.\\nTry different foods, such as apples and mangoes, to see what your isopods prefer to eat.\\nAdd more leaves every 2–3 weeks to keep your isopods fed.\\n2-4. Replace half of the substrate every 6 months.\\nOver time, your substrate will get dirty and should be replaced. Remove half of the soil and sand from the tank and replace it so your isopods have a clean habitat.\\nThe substrate you remove will have isopods buried underneath. Use the substrate you take out to start another habitat in a second plastic container if you want. Otherwise, dispose of it outside.\\n3. Harvesting Isopods\\n3-1. Check underneath pieces of bark or cardboard for new isopods after 1 month.\\nIsopods usually breed within 2 weeks to 1 month. After a month has passed, lift up any of the cardboard and wood pieces in your tank and look underneath them for isopods. You should easily be able to find about 50 isopods, if not more.\\nHarvest later in the evening since isopods are more active when it’s dark at night.\\n3-2. Transfer the isopods you want to use into a smaller plastic container.\\nUse your fingers to pick your isopods out from the substrate or to scrape them off the piece of wood you lifted. Keep a smaller container next to your main habitat so you don’t accidentally drop the isopods. Return any other isopods back to the habitat.\\n3-3. Give your isopods to a pet reptile or amphibian for a snack.\\nSmall reptiles and amphibians, such as geckos and tree frogs, can’t survive off of eating isopods alone, but they make a tasty treat every so often. Put a few isopods in your pet’s tank so it has a chance to hunt and try new foods.\\nEven if your pet doesn’t eat the isopods immediately, the isopods can breed in its tank for your pet to hunt later.\\n3-4. Put isopods in a vivarium to clean up plant waste in the tank.\\nVivariums are tanks that house different plant life and sometimes animals. Put 10-15 of your isopods in your vivarium so they can burrow in the soil and clean the tank so you don’t have to. Let the isopods breed in your vivarium so you don’t have to worry about them.\\nTips\\nIsopods will breed at room temperature, but you may have more success if the habitat is near 80 °F (27 °C).[18]\\nX\\nResearch source\\nWarnings\\nKeep isopod habitats out of direct sunlight so the container doesn’t overheat.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Isopods are common crustaceans often referred to as pillbugs or woodlice. They make great treats for pets, like geckos and frogs. Isopods can also be used to eat plant waste and clean a vivarium. While you can always go to a pet store and buy isopods, you can also breed them on your own at home! All you need to get started is a plastic tub and supplies to build a habitat. After your isopods have been together for about a month, you’ll find new young isopods in your tank to use!\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Building the Habitat\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Line the bottom of a plastic tub with soil and sand.\", \"描述\": \"Use clean potting soil and sand so you don’t bring in any outside contaminants. Put 1 in (2.5 cm) of potting soil on half of a 14 × 8 × 5 in (36 × 20 × 13 cm) plastic tub. Then, lay 1 in (2.5 cm) of sand on the opposite side as the soil.\\nIf you don’t have sand or potting soil, you can also use coir fiber from a gardening store.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Dry leaves and bark in the oven before adding it to your habitat.\", \"描述\": \"Look for fallen leaves and bark from trees outside in your area. A handful of each should be enough for a thin layer. Put the leaves and bark on a cooking tray and place them in an oven heated to 200 °F (93 °C) for 5–10 minutes. Drying out the leaves and bark helps get rid of outside bacteria and contaminants. When they’re finished drying out, layer the leaves and branches on the soil side to make a naturalistic habitat for your isopods.\\nMake sure to use leaves or bark that haven’t been treated with any pesticides.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Mist the leaves with a spray bottle and purified water.\", \"描述\": \"Moisture in the habitat gives your isopod access to water as well as keeps it humid. Fill a spray bottle with purified water so you don’t introduce any contaminants, such as added minerals, to your habitat. Spray the sand, soil, and leaves so they’re slightly wet, but not so much that it makes standing water.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Set cardboard squares in your habitat to give your isopods shelter.\", \"描述\": \"Cut 2-3 squares of cardboard that are about 2 in × 3 in (5.1 cm × 7.6 cm). Set the squares so they overlap with one another on either side of your tank. This gives your isopods somewhere to hide during the daytime since they’re most active at night.\\nMake sure the cardboard is untreated and unpainted or else it could harm your isopods.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Caring for Your Isopods\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Collect your isopods from the wild or a culture set.\", \"描述\": \"If you plan on capturing your isopods from the wild, start by looking underneath stones and logs. Use your fingers to guide or push them into a plastic container so you can transfer them to their new habitat. If you don’t want to search for your own, see if you can purchase isopod cultures online or from your local pet store. Aim to find between 20-30 isopods to put into your tank to encourage breeding.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Mist the habitat every day so it doesn’t dry out.\", \"描述\": \"Remove the lid from your isopod habitat and lightly mist the substrate with your spray bottle. Make sure the soil and sand is damp to the touch, but not so wet that there’s standing water on the surface.\\nLeave one side of your habitat less wet so the isopods can regulate how much moisture they want on their own.\\nIf you’re going to be away for a couple of days, completely saturate a paper towel and set it in the sandy side of your tank.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Leave carrot shavings, small pieces of lettuce, or fish flakes for food.\", \"描述\": \"While your isopods will eat the leaves in their habitat, adding small pieces of fruits and vegetables offers other nutrients to keep your isopods healthy. Tear off small pieces of the food you plan on putting in your habitat and spread it evenly throughout the tub. Otherwise, sprinkle a pinch of high-quality fish flakes throughout the tank. Replace the food whenever you notice it starting to mold, or about once a week.\\nTry different foods, such as apples and mangoes, to see what your isopods prefer to eat.\\nAdd more leaves every 2–3 weeks to keep your isopods fed.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Replace half of the substrate every 6 months.\", \"描述\": \"Over time, your substrate will get dirty and should be replaced. Remove half of the soil and sand from the tank and replace it so your isopods have a clean habitat.\\nThe substrate you remove will have isopods buried underneath. Use the substrate you take out to start another habitat in a second plastic container if you want. Otherwise, dispose of it outside.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Harvesting Isopods\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Check underneath pieces of bark or cardboard for new isopods after 1 month.\", \"描述\": \"Isopods usually breed within 2 weeks to 1 month. After a month has passed, lift up any of the cardboard and wood pieces in your tank and look underneath them for isopods. You should easily be able to find about 50 isopods, if not more.\\nHarvest later in the evening since isopods are more active when it’s dark at night.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Transfer the isopods you want to use into a smaller plastic container.\", \"描述\": \"Use your fingers to pick your isopods out from the substrate or to scrape them off the piece of wood you lifted. Keep a smaller container next to your main habitat so you don’t accidentally drop the isopods. Return any other isopods back to the habitat.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Give your isopods to a pet reptile or amphibian for a snack.\", \"描述\": \"Small reptiles and amphibians, such as geckos and tree frogs, can’t survive off of eating isopods alone, but they make a tasty treat every so often. Put a few isopods in your pet’s tank so it has a chance to hunt and try new foods.\\nEven if your pet doesn’t eat the isopods immediately, the isopods can breed in its tank for your pet to hunt later.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Put isopods in a vivarium to clean up plant waste in the tank.\", \"描述\": \"Vivariums are tanks that house different plant life and sometimes animals. Put 10-15 of your isopods in your vivarium so they can burrow in the soil and clean the tank so you don’t have to. Let the isopods breed in your vivarium so you don’t have to worry about them.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Isopods will breed at room temperature, but you may have more success if the habitat is near 80 °F (27 °C).[18]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Keep isopod habitats out of direct sunlight so the container doesn’t overheat.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
6,935 |
How to Breed Koi Fish
|
1. Choosing Koi to Breed
1-1. Choose koi that are at least 3 years old.
Koi don’t sexually mature until they are about 3 years old. Wait until they are 3 years old to increase their likelihood of breeding and producing quality offspring.
Koi are about 10 inches (25 cm) long when they are 3 years old.
1-2. Identify at least 1 male and 1 female to stay in the mating pond.
Male and female koi generally look quite similar. However, during mating season, the males have small white growths on their pectoral fins and heads. Remove any koi from the pond that you don’t want to breed; otherwise you will end up with unwanted baby koi.
It is easy to spot males once they start breeding as they will chase the females around the pond.
It is safe to have multiple male koi in the same pond.
1-3. Select koi that have attributes you want to replicate.
Consider the attributes that you want for your koi offspring. If you want a certain fin shape, choose koi that demonstrate that characteristic. Regardless of what physical characteristics you want, try to choose koi that have healthy looking scales and are at least 10 inches (25 cm) long.
If you are looking for a certain color, choose koi parents that demonstrate that coloring.
Avoid using a child’s pet koi for breeding as the koi can suffer torn fins, bruises, cuts and occasionally death, during the breeding process. Take your koi to a vet if you are worried about their injuries.
2. Making the Right Conditions for Breeding
2-1. Breed koi in late-spring or early-summer.
Koi tend to breed when the weather is warm and the water temperature has risen. It is important to be prepared as koi can produce up to 1 million eggs.
If you don’t have the right conditions or enough capacity for baby koi, consider removing the males from the pond during this season. You will need a pond that is 3 feet (0.91 m) deep and 6 feet (1.8 m) by 8 feet (2.4 m) foot wide to house 5 koi. For more koi, you will need a larger pond.
2-2. Use a filtration system to keep the water clean.
A clean pond is important for the health of the koi and their spawn. Use a specialized koi pond filtration system to keep the water clean during the breeding season. These can be expensive but are necessary for breeding.
Pond filtration systems can be purchased from pet stores or specialty fish shops for between US$200-US$2000.
If your pond is particularly dirty or filled with algae, you may need to completely clean it out.
2-3. Use a skimmer net to remove any debris or predators from the water.
Predators (such as other fish) and debris should be removed from the pond to protect the spawn. Use a skimmer net, or a similar scoop tool, to remove anything that might harm the koi.
Skimmer nets can be purchased from DIY stores.
If cats or birds are approaching your pond, cover the pond with netting to protect the koi. Use a piece of netting that is large enough to cover the pond and secure it down with heavy rocks.
2-4. Feed your koi
Increase your chances of the koi breeding by keeping them well fed for the month before you breed them. Feed the koi as much as they can finish in 5 minutes. Wholemeal bread, oranges and whole lettuces are nutritional food options.
Increase the amount of protein you feed your koi, as this helps support their bodies for breeding. Protein supplements can be purchased from a pet store. Follow the feeding instructions on the back of the packet.
2-5. Place a fry mat in the pond.
This is a flat and sticky mat that gives the koi a place to lay their eggs. If koi can’t find a place to lay their eggs, they won’t always mate. Place the mat in an obvious place at the bottom of the pond.
Purchase a fry mat from a pet store or a specialty fish shop.
2-6. Prepare a separate tank for the adult koi.
If you want to breed a large number of koi it is important to remove the adult koi as they will eat many of the eggs. Make sure that the koi tank is clean and has a filter system.
If you are wanting to breed a small number of koi, leave the adults in the pond.
Purchase a koi tank from a pet shop. For 2 koi, you will need an aquarium that is at least 100 gallons (380 L).
2-7. Leave the koi to mate.
This process can happen immediately or can take a few weeks. Don’t worry if the koi don’t look interested in each other initially. A storm, full moon or change in air temperature can help encourage the koi to mate, so be patient and let nature take its course.
Once the koi have mated, you will see a froth appear on the top of the water and their eggs will be visible on the fry mat.
3. Caring for Young Koi
3-1. Look for froth or scum appearing on the top of the water.
This indicates that the spawn has been released. The spawn is immediately fertilized by the male koi and eggs are formed.
The eggs will hatch after about 4 days.
If you are breeding the koi for profit, remove the parents out of the pond as soon as you notice the eggs or the presence of froth on the water.
3-2. Feed the baby koi powdered koi pellets after 10 days.
Crush up koi pellets using a blender or mortar and pestle until they are in a fine powder. Sprinkle the powder over the pond. Pour in enough powder to last the fish about 5 minutes. Feed the koi 4 times per day.
Continue to feed the baby koi powdered food until they are 4 weeks.
Over time, you will learn how much food the baby koi will eat during each 5-minute feeding session.
It can take a few days for the koi to get used to eating the powdered food.
Feed the fish 10 days after you notice the eggs.
3-3. Increase the size of the food once the koi are 1 month old.
Start to introduce crumb size pellet pieces once the koi are 4 weeks old. You will still need to crush the pellets but they no longer need to be in a fine powder.
3-4. Cull any weak fish if you are breeding for profit.
If you have a small pond and want to breed the koi for profit, you will need to cull some of the fish. Identify the koi that are very small, have physical disabilities or aren’t the color patterns you are looking for.
Make sure that the koi are culled humanely.
You don’t necessarily need to dispose of the koi. Consider giving them away to friends or family members if they are healthy.
Koi can be culled at any age, although, it is best to wait until their patterns emerge so that you can choose to keep the koi with your favorite colorings.
3-5. Reintroduce parent koi once the baby koi are 3 inches (7.6 cm) long.
Once the baby koi start to get bigger, the parent koi become friendly with their offspring. If you have removed the parents from the pond, this is a safe time to reintroduce them.
Baby koi take approximately 3 months to reach 3 inches (7.6 cm).
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:58:37",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Choosing Koi to Breed\\n1-1. Choose koi that are at least 3 years old.\\nKoi don’t sexually mature until they are about 3 years old. Wait until they are 3 years old to increase their likelihood of breeding and producing quality offspring.\\nKoi are about 10 inches (25 cm) long when they are 3 years old.\\n1-2. Identify at least 1 male and 1 female to stay in the mating pond.\\nMale and female koi generally look quite similar. However, during mating season, the males have small white growths on their pectoral fins and heads. Remove any koi from the pond that you don’t want to breed; otherwise you will end up with unwanted baby koi.\\nIt is easy to spot males once they start breeding as they will chase the females around the pond.\\nIt is safe to have multiple male koi in the same pond.\\n1-3. Select koi that have attributes you want to replicate.\\nConsider the attributes that you want for your koi offspring. If you want a certain fin shape, choose koi that demonstrate that characteristic. Regardless of what physical characteristics you want, try to choose koi that have healthy looking scales and are at least 10 inches (25 cm) long.\\nIf you are looking for a certain color, choose koi parents that demonstrate that coloring.\\nAvoid using a child’s pet koi for breeding as the koi can suffer torn fins, bruises, cuts and occasionally death, during the breeding process. Take your koi to a vet if you are worried about their injuries.\\n2. Making the Right Conditions for Breeding\\n2-1. Breed koi in late-spring or early-summer.\\nKoi tend to breed when the weather is warm and the water temperature has risen. It is important to be prepared as koi can produce up to 1 million eggs.\\nIf you don’t have the right conditions or enough capacity for baby koi, consider removing the males from the pond during this season. You will need a pond that is 3 feet (0.91 m) deep and 6 feet (1.8 m) by 8 feet (2.4 m) foot wide to house 5 koi. For more koi, you will need a larger pond.\\n2-2. Use a filtration system to keep the water clean.\\nA clean pond is important for the health of the koi and their spawn. Use a specialized koi pond filtration system to keep the water clean during the breeding season. These can be expensive but are necessary for breeding.\\nPond filtration systems can be purchased from pet stores or specialty fish shops for between US$200-US$2000.\\nIf your pond is particularly dirty or filled with algae, you may need to completely clean it out.\\n2-3. Use a skimmer net to remove any debris or predators from the water.\\nPredators (such as other fish) and debris should be removed from the pond to protect the spawn. Use a skimmer net, or a similar scoop tool, to remove anything that might harm the koi.\\nSkimmer nets can be purchased from DIY stores.\\nIf cats or birds are approaching your pond, cover the pond with netting to protect the koi. Use a piece of netting that is large enough to cover the pond and secure it down with heavy rocks.\\n2-4. Feed your koi\\nIncrease your chances of the koi breeding by keeping them well fed for the month before you breed them. Feed the koi as much as they can finish in 5 minutes. Wholemeal bread, oranges and whole lettuces are nutritional food options.\\nIncrease the amount of protein you feed your koi, as this helps support their bodies for breeding. Protein supplements can be purchased from a pet store. Follow the feeding instructions on the back of the packet.\\n2-5. Place a fry mat in the pond.\\nThis is a flat and sticky mat that gives the koi a place to lay their eggs. If koi can’t find a place to lay their eggs, they won’t always mate. Place the mat in an obvious place at the bottom of the pond.\\nPurchase a fry mat from a pet store or a specialty fish shop.\\n2-6. Prepare a separate tank for the adult koi.\\nIf you want to breed a large number of koi it is important to remove the adult koi as they will eat many of the eggs. Make sure that the koi tank is clean and has a filter system.\\nIf you are wanting to breed a small number of koi, leave the adults in the pond.\\nPurchase a koi tank from a pet shop. For 2 koi, you will need an aquarium that is at least 100 gallons (380 L).\\n2-7. Leave the koi to mate.\\nThis process can happen immediately or can take a few weeks. Don’t worry if the koi don’t look interested in each other initially. A storm, full moon or change in air temperature can help encourage the koi to mate, so be patient and let nature take its course.\\nOnce the koi have mated, you will see a froth appear on the top of the water and their eggs will be visible on the fry mat.\\n3. Caring for Young Koi\\n3-1. Look for froth or scum appearing on the top of the water.\\nThis indicates that the spawn has been released. The spawn is immediately fertilized by the male koi and eggs are formed.\\nThe eggs will hatch after about 4 days.\\nIf you are breeding the koi for profit, remove the parents out of the pond as soon as you notice the eggs or the presence of froth on the water.\\n3-2. Feed the baby koi powdered koi pellets after 10 days.\\nCrush up koi pellets using a blender or mortar and pestle until they are in a fine powder. Sprinkle the powder over the pond. Pour in enough powder to last the fish about 5 minutes. Feed the koi 4 times per day.\\nContinue to feed the baby koi powdered food until they are 4 weeks.\\nOver time, you will learn how much food the baby koi will eat during each 5-minute feeding session.\\nIt can take a few days for the koi to get used to eating the powdered food.\\nFeed the fish 10 days after you notice the eggs.\\n3-3. Increase the size of the food once the koi are 1 month old.\\nStart to introduce crumb size pellet pieces once the koi are 4 weeks old. You will still need to crush the pellets but they no longer need to be in a fine powder.\\n3-4. Cull any weak fish if you are breeding for profit.\\nIf you have a small pond and want to breed the koi for profit, you will need to cull some of the fish. Identify the koi that are very small, have physical disabilities or aren’t the color patterns you are looking for.\\nMake sure that the koi are culled humanely.\\nYou don’t necessarily need to dispose of the koi. Consider giving them away to friends or family members if they are healthy.\\nKoi can be culled at any age, although, it is best to wait until their patterns emerge so that you can choose to keep the koi with your favorite colorings.\\n3-5. Reintroduce parent koi once the baby koi are 3 inches (7.6 cm) long.\\nOnce the baby koi start to get bigger, the parent koi become friendly with their offspring. If you have removed the parents from the pond, this is a safe time to reintroduce them.\\nBaby koi take approximately 3 months to reach 3 inches (7.6 cm).\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Breeding koi can be a lot of fun but is a time-consuming process. To breed koi for a profit, it is important to choose koi that show the physical attributes you are looking for in offspring. Keep the pond clean and free from predators to increase the percentage of koi eggs that will hatch and survive their early weeks of life.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Choosing Koi to Breed\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Choose koi that are at least 3 years old.\", \"描述\": \"Koi don’t sexually mature until they are about 3 years old. Wait until they are 3 years old to increase their likelihood of breeding and producing quality offspring.\\nKoi are about 10 inches (25 cm) long when they are 3 years old.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Identify at least 1 male and 1 female to stay in the mating pond.\", \"描述\": \"Male and female koi generally look quite similar. However, during mating season, the males have small white growths on their pectoral fins and heads. Remove any koi from the pond that you don’t want to breed; otherwise you will end up with unwanted baby koi.\\nIt is easy to spot males once they start breeding as they will chase the females around the pond.\\nIt is safe to have multiple male koi in the same pond.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Select koi that have attributes you want to replicate.\", \"描述\": \"Consider the attributes that you want for your koi offspring. If you want a certain fin shape, choose koi that demonstrate that characteristic. Regardless of what physical characteristics you want, try to choose koi that have healthy looking scales and are at least 10 inches (25 cm) long.\\nIf you are looking for a certain color, choose koi parents that demonstrate that coloring.\\nAvoid using a child’s pet koi for breeding as the koi can suffer torn fins, bruises, cuts and occasionally death, during the breeding process. Take your koi to a vet if you are worried about their injuries.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Making the Right Conditions for Breeding\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Breed koi in late-spring or early-summer.\", \"描述\": \"Koi tend to breed when the weather is warm and the water temperature has risen. It is important to be prepared as koi can produce up to 1 million eggs.\\nIf you don’t have the right conditions or enough capacity for baby koi, consider removing the males from the pond during this season. You will need a pond that is 3 feet (0.91 m) deep and 6 feet (1.8 m) by 8 feet (2.4 m) foot wide to house 5 koi. For more koi, you will need a larger pond.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Use a filtration system to keep the water clean.\", \"描述\": \"A clean pond is important for the health of the koi and their spawn. Use a specialized koi pond filtration system to keep the water clean during the breeding season. These can be expensive but are necessary for breeding.\\nPond filtration systems can be purchased from pet stores or specialty fish shops for between US$200-US$2000.\\nIf your pond is particularly dirty or filled with algae, you may need to completely clean it out.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Use a skimmer net to remove any debris or predators from the water.\", \"描述\": \"Predators (such as other fish) and debris should be removed from the pond to protect the spawn. Use a skimmer net, or a similar scoop tool, to remove anything that might harm the koi.\\nSkimmer nets can be purchased from DIY stores.\\nIf cats or birds are approaching your pond, cover the pond with netting to protect the koi. Use a piece of netting that is large enough to cover the pond and secure it down with heavy rocks.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Feed your koi\", \"描述\": \"Increase your chances of the koi breeding by keeping them well fed for the month before you breed them. Feed the koi as much as they can finish in 5 minutes. Wholemeal bread, oranges and whole lettuces are nutritional food options.\\nIncrease the amount of protein you feed your koi, as this helps support their bodies for breeding. Protein supplements can be purchased from a pet store. Follow the feeding instructions on the back of the packet.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Place a fry mat in the pond.\", \"描述\": \"This is a flat and sticky mat that gives the koi a place to lay their eggs. If koi can’t find a place to lay their eggs, they won’t always mate. Place the mat in an obvious place at the bottom of the pond.\\nPurchase a fry mat from a pet store or a specialty fish shop.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Prepare a separate tank for the adult koi.\", \"描述\": \"If you want to breed a large number of koi it is important to remove the adult koi as they will eat many of the eggs. Make sure that the koi tank is clean and has a filter system.\\nIf you are wanting to breed a small number of koi, leave the adults in the pond.\\nPurchase a koi tank from a pet shop. For 2 koi, you will need an aquarium that is at least 100 gallons (380 L).\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Leave the koi to mate.\", \"描述\": \"This process can happen immediately or can take a few weeks. Don’t worry if the koi don’t look interested in each other initially. A storm, full moon or change in air temperature can help encourage the koi to mate, so be patient and let nature take its course.\\nOnce the koi have mated, you will see a froth appear on the top of the water and their eggs will be visible on the fry mat.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Caring for Young Koi\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Look for froth or scum appearing on the top of the water.\", \"描述\": \"This indicates that the spawn has been released. The spawn is immediately fertilized by the male koi and eggs are formed.\\nThe eggs will hatch after about 4 days.\\nIf you are breeding the koi for profit, remove the parents out of the pond as soon as you notice the eggs or the presence of froth on the water.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Feed the baby koi powdered koi pellets after 10 days.\", \"描述\": \"Crush up koi pellets using a blender or mortar and pestle until they are in a fine powder. Sprinkle the powder over the pond. Pour in enough powder to last the fish about 5 minutes. Feed the koi 4 times per day.\\nContinue to feed the baby koi powdered food until they are 4 weeks.\\nOver time, you will learn how much food the baby koi will eat during each 5-minute feeding session.\\nIt can take a few days for the koi to get used to eating the powdered food.\\nFeed the fish 10 days after you notice the eggs.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Increase the size of the food once the koi are 1 month old.\", \"描述\": \"Start to introduce crumb size pellet pieces once the koi are 4 weeks old. You will still need to crush the pellets but they no longer need to be in a fine powder.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Cull any weak fish if you are breeding for profit.\", \"描述\": \"If you have a small pond and want to breed the koi for profit, you will need to cull some of the fish. Identify the koi that are very small, have physical disabilities or aren’t the color patterns you are looking for.\\nMake sure that the koi are culled humanely.\\nYou don’t necessarily need to dispose of the koi. Consider giving them away to friends or family members if they are healthy.\\nKoi can be culled at any age, although, it is best to wait until their patterns emerge so that you can choose to keep the koi with your favorite colorings.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Reintroduce parent koi once the baby koi are 3 inches (7.6 cm) long.\", \"描述\": \"Once the baby koi start to get bigger, the parent koi become friendly with their offspring. If you have removed the parents from the pond, this is a safe time to reintroduce them.\\nBaby koi take approximately 3 months to reach 3 inches (7.6 cm).\"}]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
6,936 |
How to Breed Labradors
|
1. Verifying the Health of Your Labradors
1-1. Avoid breeding Labradors with hereditary medical problems.
If you're aware that one of your dogs has any sort of medical problem that can be passed on to its offspring, you shouldn't breed it. Breeding a dog with medical problems will make sure those medical problems continue to cause problems for Labradors and their owners in the future. Some common Labrador health problems include:
Joint problems like hip or elbow dysplasia
Progressive retinal atrophy (a disorder that causes blindness).
Cancer
Even if you're not aware of your dog having any medical problems, it's still a good idea to have it screened.
1-2. Screen your Labradors for hereditary medical conditions.
While your Labrador may be a purebred, that doesn't necessarily mean that it's the best breeding stock. This is because it could have serious medical issues that can be passed on to its offspring. To verify your dog is good breeding stock and doesn't have major hereditary problems, have it genetically screened. Some companies and organizations that conduct screening on Labradors include:
The Orthopedic Foundation for Animals which will test for dysplasia
Companion Animal Eye Registry which tests for hereditary eye problems
OptiGen which tests for a variety of genetic disorders
1-3. Take your Labradors to the vet for an examination before breeding.
Tell your vet you're planning on mating your dogs. Let them know that you'd like them to check for any potential medical problems that could endanger the pregnancy or cause complications, and that you need your labradors to be up-to-date on their vaccinations. Ask them to run a blood test to check your dogs' blood sugar levels, blood cell counts, and more. This way, they'll be able to rule out problematic disorders like diabetes and Cushings.
1-4. Talk to your vet if your Labrador had pregnancy complications in the past.
If your female dog has had complications with a prior pregnancy, you and your vet need to evaluate the risks of future pregnancies, which can include life-threatening injury and additional failed pregnancies. This is especially true if your dog delivered premature, had a miscarriage, or suffered prolong bleeding after a successful pregnancy.
2. Checking Pedigree
2-1. Obtain your dog's pedigree or kennel club papers.
When you adopted or purchased your Labrador, the breeder or rescue may have given you registration papers for your Labrador. These papers should include the names of its parents and its ancestors. Registration papers are one of the best ways to verify that your dog is a purebred and makes for good breeding stock.
If you don't have registration papers but believe your Labrador is a purebred, you can run a DNA test on your dog to confirm it. Dog DNA tests usually cost between $50 and $100. Ask your vet if they can recommend a company to test your dog's DNA.
2-2. Pick dogs that have a temperament that represents the breed.
Along with good health and pedigree, temperament is another factor important for breeding. Labradors are usually friendly and outgoing. In addition, they're somewhat high energy. They are also easy to train. If your dog doesn't have these attributes, it is not a good candidate for breeding.
Labradors should not be aggressive to either humans or other animals.
2-3. Verify your dogs meet the physical standards of the breed.
Only dogs that represent the standard of the breed should reproduce. If a dog doesn't represent this standard, you shouldn't breed it.
Labradors come in black, chocolate, or yellow. They sometimes have white markings. Labradors often have mixed litters with black puppies, chocolate puppies, and yellow puppies.
The coat of Labradors should be short, dense, and seem to feel hard to the touch.
Female adult Labradors should be between 21.5 inches (55 cm) and 23.5 inches (60 cm) high at the withers (the area between your dog's shoulder blades). Male Labradors should be between 22.5 inches (57 cm) and 24.5 inches (62 cm) high at the withers.
Labradors shouldn't appear to have short legs or have legs that appear “leggy.”
Female adult Labradors should be between 55 pounds (25 kg) and 70 pounds (32 kg). Male adult Labradors should be between 65 pounds (29.5 kg) and 80 pounds (36 kg).
3. Becoming Licensed and Purchasing Supplies
3-1. Obtain a license if you need one.
Depending on the laws where you live, you may need to apply for a license from your local government. To find out if you need a license, inquire with your local law enforcement or animal control office.
In some cities or states, any breeder with more than 5 or 10 intact female dogs and who sells puppies will need a license.
In many places, breeders of hunting dogs are exempt from licensing.
3-2. Purchase a large whelping box.
A whelping box is a large box where your female dog will birth and nurse its puppies. Your whelping box should be 2 feet (0.61 m) high, 4 feet (1.2 m), and 4 feet (1.2 m) wide. Your female lab and her puppies will spend the first three weeks after birth in the box. Afterwards, the puppies and mother dog will be able to move into a cage or similar enclosure.
3-3. Get cages to house your dogs.
In addition to a whelping box, you'll need cages to house your grown dogs, juveniles, and any other dogs you plan to keep as breeding stock. Grown dogs will need cages that are 42 inches (107 cm) long and 30 inches (76 cm) high. Juveniles and younger dogs will fit in smaller cages, but make sure to move them into large cages when they are mature.
The dogs should be able to easily stand up, turn around, and lay stretched out in their cages. If they can't, the cages are too small.
3-4. Use old towels and sheets as bedding.
Collect towels and sheets from friends or family. If you can't get enough, you can purchase new towels or sheets to use as bedding. Then, spread them out in your whelping box and cages. This will turn the whelping box and cage into a comfortable place for your dogs.
3-5. Fence in parts of your yard
In addition to cages, your dogs -- mature and juvenile -- will need access to open space. As a result, you should create two or three at least 20 by 40 foot (6 by 12 m) fenced areas in your yard. This way, you'll be able to have dogs of different sexes and ages outside at one time.
3-6. Take your puppies to the vet for vaccinations.
When your puppies are 6-8 weeks old, you need to take them to the vet for an examination and their first set of puppy shots. If you don't take them to the vet for vaccination, you could put them at risk of contracting dangerous illnesses. Ultimately, a responsible breeder will stay in touch with their vet throughout the breeding process.
4. Breeding the Dogs
4-1. Breed your female dog between 8 months and 8 years of age.
Female Labradors typically can't be bred until they're at least 8 months old. Around this time, your dog will experience its first "heat" cycle. This is the fertility cycle during which your dog will be able to get pregnant. Then, you should be able to breed your female Labrador safely until it reaches the age of 8.
You can breed your female dog with a male lab that's older than 12 months.
Pregnancy after the age of 8 will put extra stress on your dog, so do not breed it after that age.
Never breed a bitch during her first heat, as this could increase the chance of pregnancy-related complications.
4-2. Mate your dogs between the 10th and 14th day of the heat cycle.
Labradors enter the heat cycle twice a year. The cycle lasts between 2 and 3 weeks. Your female Labrador will be most fertile between the 10th and 14th day of the heat cycle.
After the 10th day, allow your dogs to mate every other day for four to six days.
You'll know your female Labrador is beginning the heat cycle when its vulva is swollen and it has bloody vaginal discharge.
4-3. Breed the dogs in a private, outdoor location.
Don't allow more than 2 people to be present for the breeding or the dogs could feel overwhelmed. If you have other dogs, no matter male or female, keep your breeding dogs separated from them. It may take several hours before the dogs start mating, depending on how comfortable they feel. If the male dog seems disinterested and doesn't mount the female, you may need to wait and try again the next day.
While you're waiting for the dogs to mate, talk to them softly so they feel comfortable. Avoid yelling or speaking loudly or you could upset the dogs and prolong the process.
After the dogs mate, bring the female inside for at least 15 minutes so she doesn't urinate immediately after mating.
4-4. Allow your vet to examine your female dog to confirm pregnancy.
Your vet will be able to confirm pregnancy 3 to 4 weeks after mating. In many cases, they'll simply be able to confirm pregnancy by noting the increased weight of your dog and related factors (like increased appetite). They can do this by physically examining the dog or with an ultrasound.
5. Assisting with the Pregnancy
5-1. Feed your dog 35-50 percent more during the last 5 weeks of pregnancy.
Pregnant dogs need more food to sustain themselves during the end of their pregnancy. Make sure you introduce the extra food gradually so your dog doesn't get sick.
5-2. Prepare the whelping box for your dog to give birth in.
Set up the whelping box in a warm, quiet spot. Fill the box with blankets so your dog is comfortable, and try to get it used to going in the box before the actual birth.
5-3. Monitor the birthing process in case you need to help out.
Your dog should be OK giving birth on its own, but you may need to step in if something goes wrong.
If your dog doesn't remove the placental membranes from its puppies, you'll need to remove the membranes using your hands so the puppies can breathe.
If your dog doesn't cut the umbilical cords while its cleaning its puppies, use clean scissors to snip the cords 1–2 inches (2.5–5.1 cm) away from the puppies. Then, tie the ends of the cords off with unwaxed dental floss. When you're finished, wipe down the puppies stomachs with iodine so their umbilical cords don't get infected.
5-4. Contact your vet if serious complications occur.
If serious complications occur during the birthing process, your dog will need professional assistance. Signs that there may be something wrong with the pregnancy include:
Trembling or collapsing.
Extreme discomfort.
It's been over 2 hours since a puppy was delivered.
5-5. Skip a heating season between pregnancies.
After your female Labrador has given birth, wait at least one season before allowing it to mate again. This is important, as your dog's body needs to recover before another pregnancy. If you don't wait, the second pregnancy could put stress on your dog's body and may result in complications.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:58:37",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Verifying the Health of Your Labradors\\n1-1. Avoid breeding Labradors with hereditary medical problems.\\nIf you're aware that one of your dogs has any sort of medical problem that can be passed on to its offspring, you shouldn't breed it. Breeding a dog with medical problems will make sure those medical problems continue to cause problems for Labradors and their owners in the future. Some common Labrador health problems include:\\nJoint problems like hip or elbow dysplasia\\nProgressive retinal atrophy (a disorder that causes blindness).\\nCancer\\nEven if you're not aware of your dog having any medical problems, it's still a good idea to have it screened.\\n1-2. Screen your Labradors for hereditary medical conditions.\\nWhile your Labrador may be a purebred, that doesn't necessarily mean that it's the best breeding stock. This is because it could have serious medical issues that can be passed on to its offspring. To verify your dog is good breeding stock and doesn't have major hereditary problems, have it genetically screened. Some companies and organizations that conduct screening on Labradors include:\\nThe Orthopedic Foundation for Animals which will test for dysplasia\\nCompanion Animal Eye Registry which tests for hereditary eye problems\\nOptiGen which tests for a variety of genetic disorders\\n1-3. Take your Labradors to the vet for an examination before breeding.\\nTell your vet you're planning on mating your dogs. Let them know that you'd like them to check for any potential medical problems that could endanger the pregnancy or cause complications, and that you need your labradors to be up-to-date on their vaccinations. Ask them to run a blood test to check your dogs' blood sugar levels, blood cell counts, and more. This way, they'll be able to rule out problematic disorders like diabetes and Cushings.\\n1-4. Talk to your vet if your Labrador had pregnancy complications in the past.\\nIf your female dog has had complications with a prior pregnancy, you and your vet need to evaluate the risks of future pregnancies, which can include life-threatening injury and additional failed pregnancies. This is especially true if your dog delivered premature, had a miscarriage, or suffered prolong bleeding after a successful pregnancy.\\n2. Checking Pedigree\\n2-1. Obtain your dog's pedigree or kennel club papers.\\nWhen you adopted or purchased your Labrador, the breeder or rescue may have given you registration papers for your Labrador. These papers should include the names of its parents and its ancestors. Registration papers are one of the best ways to verify that your dog is a purebred and makes for good breeding stock.\\nIf you don't have registration papers but believe your Labrador is a purebred, you can run a DNA test on your dog to confirm it. Dog DNA tests usually cost between $50 and $100. Ask your vet if they can recommend a company to test your dog's DNA.\\n2-2. Pick dogs that have a temperament that represents the breed.\\nAlong with good health and pedigree, temperament is another factor important for breeding. Labradors are usually friendly and outgoing. In addition, they're somewhat high energy. They are also easy to train. If your dog doesn't have these attributes, it is not a good candidate for breeding.\\nLabradors should not be aggressive to either humans or other animals.\\n2-3. Verify your dogs meet the physical standards of the breed.\\nOnly dogs that represent the standard of the breed should reproduce. If a dog doesn't represent this standard, you shouldn't breed it.\\nLabradors come in black, chocolate, or yellow. They sometimes have white markings. Labradors often have mixed litters with black puppies, chocolate puppies, and yellow puppies.\\nThe coat of Labradors should be short, dense, and seem to feel hard to the touch.\\nFemale adult Labradors should be between 21.5 inches (55 cm) and 23.5 inches (60 cm) high at the withers (the area between your dog's shoulder blades). Male Labradors should be between 22.5 inches (57 cm) and 24.5 inches (62 cm) high at the withers.\\nLabradors shouldn't appear to have short legs or have legs that appear “leggy.”\\nFemale adult Labradors should be between 55 pounds (25 kg) and 70 pounds (32 kg). Male adult Labradors should be between 65 pounds (29.5 kg) and 80 pounds (36 kg).\\n3. Becoming Licensed and Purchasing Supplies\\n3-1. Obtain a license if you need one.\\nDepending on the laws where you live, you may need to apply for a license from your local government. To find out if you need a license, inquire with your local law enforcement or animal control office.\\nIn some cities or states, any breeder with more than 5 or 10 intact female dogs and who sells puppies will need a license.\\nIn many places, breeders of hunting dogs are exempt from licensing.\\n3-2. Purchase a large whelping box.\\nA whelping box is a large box where your female dog will birth and nurse its puppies. Your whelping box should be 2 feet (0.61 m) high, 4 feet (1.2 m), and 4 feet (1.2 m) wide. Your female lab and her puppies will spend the first three weeks after birth in the box. Afterwards, the puppies and mother dog will be able to move into a cage or similar enclosure.\\n3-3. Get cages to house your dogs.\\nIn addition to a whelping box, you'll need cages to house your grown dogs, juveniles, and any other dogs you plan to keep as breeding stock. Grown dogs will need cages that are 42 inches (107 cm) long and 30 inches (76 cm) high. Juveniles and younger dogs will fit in smaller cages, but make sure to move them into large cages when they are mature.\\nThe dogs should be able to easily stand up, turn around, and lay stretched out in their cages. If they can't, the cages are too small.\\n3-4. Use old towels and sheets as bedding.\\nCollect towels and sheets from friends or family. If you can't get enough, you can purchase new towels or sheets to use as bedding. Then, spread them out in your whelping box and cages. This will turn the whelping box and cage into a comfortable place for your dogs.\\n3-5. Fence in parts of your yard\\nIn addition to cages, your dogs -- mature and juvenile -- will need access to open space. As a result, you should create two or three at least 20 by 40 foot (6 by 12 m) fenced areas in your yard. This way, you'll be able to have dogs of different sexes and ages outside at one time.\\n3-6. Take your puppies to the vet for vaccinations.\\nWhen your puppies are 6-8 weeks old, you need to take them to the vet for an examination and their first set of puppy shots. If you don't take them to the vet for vaccination, you could put them at risk of contracting dangerous illnesses. Ultimately, a responsible breeder will stay in touch with their vet throughout the breeding process.\\n4. Breeding the Dogs\\n4-1. Breed your female dog between 8 months and 8 years of age.\\nFemale Labradors typically can't be bred until they're at least 8 months old. Around this time, your dog will experience its first \\\"heat\\\" cycle. This is the fertility cycle during which your dog will be able to get pregnant. Then, you should be able to breed your female Labrador safely until it reaches the age of 8.\\nYou can breed your female dog with a male lab that's older than 12 months.\\nPregnancy after the age of 8 will put extra stress on your dog, so do not breed it after that age.\\nNever breed a bitch during her first heat, as this could increase the chance of pregnancy-related complications.\\n4-2. Mate your dogs between the 10th and 14th day of the heat cycle.\\nLabradors enter the heat cycle twice a year. The cycle lasts between 2 and 3 weeks. Your female Labrador will be most fertile between the 10th and 14th day of the heat cycle.\\nAfter the 10th day, allow your dogs to mate every other day for four to six days.\\nYou'll know your female Labrador is beginning the heat cycle when its vulva is swollen and it has bloody vaginal discharge.\\n4-3. Breed the dogs in a private, outdoor location.\\nDon't allow more than 2 people to be present for the breeding or the dogs could feel overwhelmed. If you have other dogs, no matter male or female, keep your breeding dogs separated from them. It may take several hours before the dogs start mating, depending on how comfortable they feel. If the male dog seems disinterested and doesn't mount the female, you may need to wait and try again the next day.\\nWhile you're waiting for the dogs to mate, talk to them softly so they feel comfortable. Avoid yelling or speaking loudly or you could upset the dogs and prolong the process.\\nAfter the dogs mate, bring the female inside for at least 15 minutes so she doesn't urinate immediately after mating.\\n4-4. Allow your vet to examine your female dog to confirm pregnancy.\\nYour vet will be able to confirm pregnancy 3 to 4 weeks after mating. In many cases, they'll simply be able to confirm pregnancy by noting the increased weight of your dog and related factors (like increased appetite). They can do this by physically examining the dog or with an ultrasound.\\n5. Assisting with the Pregnancy\\n5-1. Feed your dog 35-50 percent more during the last 5 weeks of pregnancy.\\nPregnant dogs need more food to sustain themselves during the end of their pregnancy. Make sure you introduce the extra food gradually so your dog doesn't get sick.\\n5-2. Prepare the whelping box for your dog to give birth in.\\nSet up the whelping box in a warm, quiet spot. Fill the box with blankets so your dog is comfortable, and try to get it used to going in the box before the actual birth.\\n5-3. Monitor the birthing process in case you need to help out.\\nYour dog should be OK giving birth on its own, but you may need to step in if something goes wrong.\\nIf your dog doesn't remove the placental membranes from its puppies, you'll need to remove the membranes using your hands so the puppies can breathe.\\nIf your dog doesn't cut the umbilical cords while its cleaning its puppies, use clean scissors to snip the cords 1–2 inches (2.5–5.1 cm) away from the puppies. Then, tie the ends of the cords off with unwaxed dental floss. When you're finished, wipe down the puppies stomachs with iodine so their umbilical cords don't get infected.\\n5-4. Contact your vet if serious complications occur.\\nIf serious complications occur during the birthing process, your dog will need professional assistance. Signs that there may be something wrong with the pregnancy include:\\nTrembling or collapsing.\\nExtreme discomfort.\\nIt's been over 2 hours since a puppy was delivered.\\n5-5. Skip a heating season between pregnancies.\\nAfter your female Labrador has given birth, wait at least one season before allowing it to mate again. This is important, as your dog's body needs to recover before another pregnancy. If you don't wait, the second pregnancy could put stress on your dog's body and may result in complications.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Labradors are one of the most popular dog breeds today. They're social, friendly, and outgoing. Like any dog breed, breeding Labradors presents unique challenges. To successfully breed Labradors, you should verify your dog's health, check your dog's pedigree, purchase necessary equipment, and become informed about the breeding process. If you commit yourself to safe and responsible breeding, your Labradors have a good chance of producing healthy puppies and you may gain a reputation as a trustworthy breeder.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Verifying the Health of Your Labradors\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Avoid breeding Labradors with hereditary medical problems.\", \"描述\": \"If you're aware that one of your dogs has any sort of medical problem that can be passed on to its offspring, you shouldn't breed it. Breeding a dog with medical problems will make sure those medical problems continue to cause problems for Labradors and their owners in the future. Some common Labrador health problems include:\\nJoint problems like hip or elbow dysplasia\\nProgressive retinal atrophy (a disorder that causes blindness).\\nCancer\\nEven if you're not aware of your dog having any medical problems, it's still a good idea to have it screened.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Screen your Labradors for hereditary medical conditions.\", \"描述\": \"While your Labrador may be a purebred, that doesn't necessarily mean that it's the best breeding stock. This is because it could have serious medical issues that can be passed on to its offspring. To verify your dog is good breeding stock and doesn't have major hereditary problems, have it genetically screened. Some companies and organizations that conduct screening on Labradors include:\\nThe Orthopedic Foundation for Animals which will test for dysplasia\\nCompanion Animal Eye Registry which tests for hereditary eye problems\\nOptiGen which tests for a variety of genetic disorders\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Take your Labradors to the vet for an examination before breeding.\", \"描述\": \"Tell your vet you're planning on mating your dogs. Let them know that you'd like them to check for any potential medical problems that could endanger the pregnancy or cause complications, and that you need your labradors to be up-to-date on their vaccinations. Ask them to run a blood test to check your dogs' blood sugar levels, blood cell counts, and more. This way, they'll be able to rule out problematic disorders like diabetes and Cushings.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Talk to your vet if your Labrador had pregnancy complications in the past.\", \"描述\": \"If your female dog has had complications with a prior pregnancy, you and your vet need to evaluate the risks of future pregnancies, which can include life-threatening injury and additional failed pregnancies. This is especially true if your dog delivered premature, had a miscarriage, or suffered prolong bleeding after a successful pregnancy.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Checking Pedigree\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Obtain your dog's pedigree or kennel club papers.\", \"描述\": \"When you adopted or purchased your Labrador, the breeder or rescue may have given you registration papers for your Labrador. These papers should include the names of its parents and its ancestors. Registration papers are one of the best ways to verify that your dog is a purebred and makes for good breeding stock.\\nIf you don't have registration papers but believe your Labrador is a purebred, you can run a DNA test on your dog to confirm it. Dog DNA tests usually cost between $50 and $100. Ask your vet if they can recommend a company to test your dog's DNA.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Pick dogs that have a temperament that represents the breed.\", \"描述\": \"Along with good health and pedigree, temperament is another factor important for breeding. Labradors are usually friendly and outgoing. In addition, they're somewhat high energy. They are also easy to train. If your dog doesn't have these attributes, it is not a good candidate for breeding.\\nLabradors should not be aggressive to either humans or other animals.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Verify your dogs meet the physical standards of the breed.\", \"描述\": \"Only dogs that represent the standard of the breed should reproduce. If a dog doesn't represent this standard, you shouldn't breed it.\\nLabradors come in black, chocolate, or yellow. They sometimes have white markings. Labradors often have mixed litters with black puppies, chocolate puppies, and yellow puppies.\\nThe coat of Labradors should be short, dense, and seem to feel hard to the touch.\\nFemale adult Labradors should be between 21.5 inches (55 cm) and 23.5 inches (60 cm) high at the withers (the area between your dog's shoulder blades). Male Labradors should be between 22.5 inches (57 cm) and 24.5 inches (62 cm) high at the withers.\\nLabradors shouldn't appear to have short legs or have legs that appear “leggy.”\\nFemale adult Labradors should be between 55 pounds (25 kg) and 70 pounds (32 kg). Male adult Labradors should be between 65 pounds (29.5 kg) and 80 pounds (36 kg).\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Becoming Licensed and Purchasing Supplies\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Obtain a license if you need one.\", \"描述\": \"Depending on the laws where you live, you may need to apply for a license from your local government. To find out if you need a license, inquire with your local law enforcement or animal control office.\\nIn some cities or states, any breeder with more than 5 or 10 intact female dogs and who sells puppies will need a license.\\nIn many places, breeders of hunting dogs are exempt from licensing.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Purchase a large whelping box.\", \"描述\": \"A whelping box is a large box where your female dog will birth and nurse its puppies. Your whelping box should be 2 feet (0.61 m) high, 4 feet (1.2 m), and 4 feet (1.2 m) wide. Your female lab and her puppies will spend the first three weeks after birth in the box. Afterwards, the puppies and mother dog will be able to move into a cage or similar enclosure.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Get cages to house your dogs.\", \"描述\": \"In addition to a whelping box, you'll need cages to house your grown dogs, juveniles, and any other dogs you plan to keep as breeding stock. Grown dogs will need cages that are 42 inches (107 cm) long and 30 inches (76 cm) high. Juveniles and younger dogs will fit in smaller cages, but make sure to move them into large cages when they are mature.\\nThe dogs should be able to easily stand up, turn around, and lay stretched out in their cages. If they can't, the cages are too small.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Use old towels and sheets as bedding.\", \"描述\": \"Collect towels and sheets from friends or family. If you can't get enough, you can purchase new towels or sheets to use as bedding. Then, spread them out in your whelping box and cages. This will turn the whelping box and cage into a comfortable place for your dogs.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Fence in parts of your yard\", \"描述\": \"In addition to cages, your dogs -- mature and juvenile -- will need access to open space. As a result, you should create two or three at least 20 by 40 foot (6 by 12 m) fenced areas in your yard. This way, you'll be able to have dogs of different sexes and ages outside at one time.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Take your puppies to the vet for vaccinations.\", \"描述\": \"When your puppies are 6-8 weeks old, you need to take them to the vet for an examination and their first set of puppy shots. If you don't take them to the vet for vaccination, you could put them at risk of contracting dangerous illnesses. Ultimately, a responsible breeder will stay in touch with their vet throughout the breeding process.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Breeding the Dogs\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Breed your female dog between 8 months and 8 years of age.\", \"描述\": \"Female Labradors typically can't be bred until they're at least 8 months old. Around this time, your dog will experience its first \\\"heat\\\" cycle. This is the fertility cycle during which your dog will be able to get pregnant. Then, you should be able to breed your female Labrador safely until it reaches the age of 8.\\nYou can breed your female dog with a male lab that's older than 12 months.\\nPregnancy after the age of 8 will put extra stress on your dog, so do not breed it after that age.\\nNever breed a bitch during her first heat, as this could increase the chance of pregnancy-related complications.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Mate your dogs between the 10th and 14th day of the heat cycle.\", \"描述\": \"Labradors enter the heat cycle twice a year. The cycle lasts between 2 and 3 weeks. Your female Labrador will be most fertile between the 10th and 14th day of the heat cycle.\\nAfter the 10th day, allow your dogs to mate every other day for four to six days.\\nYou'll know your female Labrador is beginning the heat cycle when its vulva is swollen and it has bloody vaginal discharge.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Breed the dogs in a private, outdoor location.\", \"描述\": \"Don't allow more than 2 people to be present for the breeding or the dogs could feel overwhelmed. If you have other dogs, no matter male or female, keep your breeding dogs separated from them. It may take several hours before the dogs start mating, depending on how comfortable they feel. If the male dog seems disinterested and doesn't mount the female, you may need to wait and try again the next day.\\nWhile you're waiting for the dogs to mate, talk to them softly so they feel comfortable. Avoid yelling or speaking loudly or you could upset the dogs and prolong the process.\\nAfter the dogs mate, bring the female inside for at least 15 minutes so she doesn't urinate immediately after mating.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Allow your vet to examine your female dog to confirm pregnancy.\", \"描述\": \"Your vet will be able to confirm pregnancy 3 to 4 weeks after mating. In many cases, they'll simply be able to confirm pregnancy by noting the increased weight of your dog and related factors (like increased appetite). They can do this by physically examining the dog or with an ultrasound.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Assisting with the Pregnancy\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Feed your dog 35-50 percent more during the last 5 weeks of pregnancy.\", \"描述\": \"Pregnant dogs need more food to sustain themselves during the end of their pregnancy. Make sure you introduce the extra food gradually so your dog doesn't get sick.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Prepare the whelping box for your dog to give birth in.\", \"描述\": \"Set up the whelping box in a warm, quiet spot. Fill the box with blankets so your dog is comfortable, and try to get it used to going in the box before the actual birth.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Monitor the birthing process in case you need to help out.\", \"描述\": \"Your dog should be OK giving birth on its own, but you may need to step in if something goes wrong.\\nIf your dog doesn't remove the placental membranes from its puppies, you'll need to remove the membranes using your hands so the puppies can breathe.\\nIf your dog doesn't cut the umbilical cords while its cleaning its puppies, use clean scissors to snip the cords 1–2 inches (2.5–5.1 cm) away from the puppies. Then, tie the ends of the cords off with unwaxed dental floss. When you're finished, wipe down the puppies stomachs with iodine so their umbilical cords don't get infected.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Contact your vet if serious complications occur.\", \"描述\": \"If serious complications occur during the birthing process, your dog will need professional assistance. Signs that there may be something wrong with the pregnancy include:\\nTrembling or collapsing.\\nExtreme discomfort.\\nIt's been over 2 hours since a puppy was delivered.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Skip a heating season between pregnancies.\", \"描述\": \"After your female Labrador has given birth, wait at least one season before allowing it to mate again. This is important, as your dog's body needs to recover before another pregnancy. If you don't wait, the second pregnancy could put stress on your dog's body and may result in complications.\"}]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
6,937 |
How to Breed Lovebirds
|
1. Getting Ready to Breed a Pair
1-1. Learn about love birds.
Breeding love birds can come with risks, especially if a mate dies. Informing yourself about love birds and their mating process can help you figure out if this right decision for your animals and for you.
Understand that unlike other animals, lovebirds mate for life and can continue mating throughout their almost 15 year life cycle. Monogamy underpins the social structure of lovebirds and is vital to the stability of flocks.
Be aware that if a mate dies, its companion can exhibit erratic behavior that is like a form of depression. Lovebirds do not like to be alone.
Enjoy the fact that lovebirds are romantic with one another and may feed each other to re-establish their bonds after stress or separation.
1-2. Get supplies to breed and house lovebirds.
Lovebirds usually live in holes in trees, rocks or shrubs in the wild. Buy the supplies to give your lovebirds a home where they feel comfortable and can breed successfully.
Get your lovebirds a cage of no less than 18x18x12 inches with the bars spaced no more than 3/4" inch apart. Try and purchase a square or rectangular cage so they have places to hide.
Place different sized perches in the cage along with toys to keep the lovebirds happy and stimulated. Avoid wooden
Put separate water and food dishes in the cage away from the bottom.
Clean the cage and dishes daily to keep your lovebirds healthy. Disinfect the cage once a week.
1-3. Find a pair of lovebirds to breed.
Choose the best lovebirds to breed. This can help ensure the health of the birds and the breed.
Check that the lovebirds you want to mate are not related. This may require a DNA test.
Make sure the birds have not mated for more than 2 clutches, which can cause them serious illness.
Avoid mixing breeds, which results in hybrid birds that don’t belong to any species of lovebirds.
Male and female lovebirds often look the same, so you may need to take your birds to a veterinarian to determine the sex.
Contact groups such as the African Love Bird Society for places to get birds of the same species as yours.
1-4. Select a healthy mate.
Choosing a healthy mate for your lovebird or two healthy lovebirds is important to maintaining their health and that of the breed. Look for the following qualities of a good lovebird specimen when selecting a mate or pair:
Rounded body shape
Good ability to stand and walk
Broad rump and back
Rounded and full breast
Sharp and compact tail
Large, wide, and rounded head
Wide and appealing face
Large, round, and bold eyes
Even, deep and clear plumage, or feathers
Immaculate feather condition
Clean, large, and strong feet with straight toes and no scars
Clean and large bill, or beak, free of scars.
2. Breeding the Chosen Pair
2-1. Check the health of your lovebirds.
You cannot introduce lovebirds unless you know that both animals are healthy. Take the pair to the vet to make sure that they’re healthy enough to breed.
Let your vet know that you plan to breed the lovebirds.
Ask her any questions you might have about the birds, their health, or breeding the pair.
2-2. Consider quarantining the animals.
If you bring a new lovebird into your flock for mating, consider quarantining the pair for a few days. This can help ensure that both are healthy and that the female doesn’t get territorial or reject the male.
If you are breeding lovebirds you already own, you likely don’t need to quarantine the pair
2-3. Introduce the lovebird pair.
When you know that each lovebird is healthy, introduce the pair. Take it slowly, as it could take a few days for the birds to get used to one another.
Place the birds in cages next to one another before putting them in the same cage.
Move the birds to the same cage after a couple of days.
Put nesting materials in the cage to encourage the couple to start building a nest.
Remove any birds that are exhibiting signs of aggression or rejection of a potential partner.
2-4. Watch for signs of mating.
Lovebirds are prolific reproducers and you may notice many signs of mating. Signs of mating can include:
Courtship
Aggression
Jealousy or being “hormonal”
Carrying material in the feathers
Nest-building.
2-5. Provide the birds enough nutrition.
Lovebirds that are breeding need dense, nutrition packed foods because of the stress on their bodies. Avoid giving them just seeds, which may not provide enough nutrients for the birds or their babies. Some examples of what you can mix together to feed your lovebirds are:
Cooked elbow macaroni
Pearl barley
Frozen vegetables
Granulated sea kelp
Whole grain brown rice
Apples
Greens
Cereal, toast or crackers
Cuttlebone.
2-6. Check for eggs.
The only way to be certain that your lovebirds have mated is by checking for eggs. In most cases, the female lovebird will lay her first egg ten days after mating and then will brood, or sit on the eggs, after the second is laid.
Look at the nest every morning to see if there are any eggs. The female will generally lay eggs at night. She may produce one egg every other day, up to 5 or 6 eggs.
Be aware that two female lovebirds, if placed together. can lay up to 10 infertile eggs.
2-7. Allow the female to brood.
It takes around 25 days for a female to brood, or sit on, her eggs. Let her brood uninterrupted for at least 10 days.
Be aware the female will only leave to excrete waste, drink, and have a bite of food. In most cases, the male will feed the female during brooding.
2-8. Figure out if eggs are fertile.
It’s common to have infertile eggs, especially if a pair is too young or old. After allowing the female to brood for 10 days, you can check to see if the eggs are fertile.
Handle the eggs as gently as possible.
Check each egg by holding an egg up to a light source, such as a flashlight and looking for a membrane, which is a sign the egg is fertile.
You can also check by placing the egg in a shallow dish of warm water one week before it hatches. After five seconds, check if you can see a membrane.
Be aware that it is normal for eggs to not be fertile or for a baby to die in the egg.
2-9. Wait for the eggs to hatch.
After between 21-26 days of brooding, your eggs may hatch. Be sure to not handle the eggs or the hatchlings for the first 6-8 weeks of life.
The mother bird will feed the babies for 6-8 weeks from the nutritious food you provide.
Remove any unhatched eggs or baby lovebirds that die.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:58:37",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Getting Ready to Breed a Pair\\n1-1. Learn about love birds.\\nBreeding love birds can come with risks, especially if a mate dies. Informing yourself about love birds and their mating process can help you figure out if this right decision for your animals and for you.\\nUnderstand that unlike other animals, lovebirds mate for life and can continue mating throughout their almost 15 year life cycle. Monogamy underpins the social structure of lovebirds and is vital to the stability of flocks.\\nBe aware that if a mate dies, its companion can exhibit erratic behavior that is like a form of depression. Lovebirds do not like to be alone.\\nEnjoy the fact that lovebirds are romantic with one another and may feed each other to re-establish their bonds after stress or separation.\\n1-2. Get supplies to breed and house lovebirds.\\nLovebirds usually live in holes in trees, rocks or shrubs in the wild. Buy the supplies to give your lovebirds a home where they feel comfortable and can breed successfully.\\nGet your lovebirds a cage of no less than 18x18x12 inches with the bars spaced no more than 3/4\\\" inch apart. Try and purchase a square or rectangular cage so they have places to hide.\\nPlace different sized perches in the cage along with toys to keep the lovebirds happy and stimulated. Avoid wooden\\nPut separate water and food dishes in the cage away from the bottom.\\nClean the cage and dishes daily to keep your lovebirds healthy. Disinfect the cage once a week.\\n1-3. Find a pair of lovebirds to breed.\\nChoose the best lovebirds to breed. This can help ensure the health of the birds and the breed.\\nCheck that the lovebirds you want to mate are not related. This may require a DNA test.\\nMake sure the birds have not mated for more than 2 clutches, which can cause them serious illness.\\nAvoid mixing breeds, which results in hybrid birds that don’t belong to any species of lovebirds.\\nMale and female lovebirds often look the same, so you may need to take your birds to a veterinarian to determine the sex.\\nContact groups such as the African Love Bird Society for places to get birds of the same species as yours.\\n1-4. Select a healthy mate.\\nChoosing a healthy mate for your lovebird or two healthy lovebirds is important to maintaining their health and that of the breed. Look for the following qualities of a good lovebird specimen when selecting a mate or pair:\\nRounded body shape\\nGood ability to stand and walk\\nBroad rump and back\\nRounded and full breast\\nSharp and compact tail\\nLarge, wide, and rounded head\\nWide and appealing face\\nLarge, round, and bold eyes\\nEven, deep and clear plumage, or feathers\\nImmaculate feather condition\\nClean, large, and strong feet with straight toes and no scars\\nClean and large bill, or beak, free of scars.\\n2. Breeding the Chosen Pair\\n2-1. Check the health of your lovebirds.\\nYou cannot introduce lovebirds unless you know that both animals are healthy. Take the pair to the vet to make sure that they’re healthy enough to breed.\\nLet your vet know that you plan to breed the lovebirds.\\nAsk her any questions you might have about the birds, their health, or breeding the pair.\\n2-2. Consider quarantining the animals.\\nIf you bring a new lovebird into your flock for mating, consider quarantining the pair for a few days. This can help ensure that both are healthy and that the female doesn’t get territorial or reject the male.\\nIf you are breeding lovebirds you already own, you likely don’t need to quarantine the pair\\n2-3. Introduce the lovebird pair.\\nWhen you know that each lovebird is healthy, introduce the pair. Take it slowly, as it could take a few days for the birds to get used to one another.\\nPlace the birds in cages next to one another before putting them in the same cage.\\nMove the birds to the same cage after a couple of days.\\nPut nesting materials in the cage to encourage the couple to start building a nest.\\nRemove any birds that are exhibiting signs of aggression or rejection of a potential partner.\\n2-4. Watch for signs of mating.\\nLovebirds are prolific reproducers and you may notice many signs of mating. Signs of mating can include:\\nCourtship\\nAggression\\nJealousy or being “hormonal”\\nCarrying material in the feathers\\nNest-building.\\n2-5. Provide the birds enough nutrition.\\nLovebirds that are breeding need dense, nutrition packed foods because of the stress on their bodies. Avoid giving them just seeds, which may not provide enough nutrients for the birds or their babies. Some examples of what you can mix together to feed your lovebirds are:\\nCooked elbow macaroni\\nPearl barley\\nFrozen vegetables\\nGranulated sea kelp\\nWhole grain brown rice\\nApples\\nGreens\\nCereal, toast or crackers\\nCuttlebone.\\n2-6. Check for eggs.\\nThe only way to be certain that your lovebirds have mated is by checking for eggs. In most cases, the female lovebird will lay her first egg ten days after mating and then will brood, or sit on the eggs, after the second is laid.\\nLook at the nest every morning to see if there are any eggs. The female will generally lay eggs at night. She may produce one egg every other day, up to 5 or 6 eggs.\\nBe aware that two female lovebirds, if placed together. can lay up to 10 infertile eggs.\\n2-7. Allow the female to brood.\\nIt takes around 25 days for a female to brood, or sit on, her eggs. Let her brood uninterrupted for at least 10 days.\\nBe aware the female will only leave to excrete waste, drink, and have a bite of food. In most cases, the male will feed the female during brooding.\\n2-8. Figure out if eggs are fertile.\\nIt’s common to have infertile eggs, especially if a pair is too young or old. After allowing the female to brood for 10 days, you can check to see if the eggs are fertile.\\nHandle the eggs as gently as possible.\\nCheck each egg by holding an egg up to a light source, such as a flashlight and looking for a membrane, which is a sign the egg is fertile.\\nYou can also check by placing the egg in a shallow dish of warm water one week before it hatches. After five seconds, check if you can see a membrane.\\nBe aware that it is normal for eggs to not be fertile or for a baby to die in the egg.\\n2-9. Wait for the eggs to hatch.\\nAfter between 21-26 days of brooding, your eggs may hatch. Be sure to not handle the eggs or the hatchlings for the first 6-8 weeks of life.\\nThe mother bird will feed the babies for 6-8 weeks from the nutritious food you provide.\\nRemove any unhatched eggs or baby lovebirds that die.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Many people associate romance with lovebirds. There are nine different species of lovebirds, which are small, brightly- feathered parrots. If you have lovebirds or want to own lovebirds and breed them, it requires a lot of consideration and commitment, especially because they are monogamous for life. However, by pairing the lovebirds and taking proper care of them and their eggs, breeding these beautiful birds that supposedly inspired Valentine’s Day can be a relatively uncomplicated process.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Getting Ready to Breed a Pair\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Learn about love birds.\", \"描述\": \"Breeding love birds can come with risks, especially if a mate dies. Informing yourself about love birds and their mating process can help you figure out if this right decision for your animals and for you.\\nUnderstand that unlike other animals, lovebirds mate for life and can continue mating throughout their almost 15 year life cycle. Monogamy underpins the social structure of lovebirds and is vital to the stability of flocks.\\nBe aware that if a mate dies, its companion can exhibit erratic behavior that is like a form of depression. Lovebirds do not like to be alone.\\nEnjoy the fact that lovebirds are romantic with one another and may feed each other to re-establish their bonds after stress or separation.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Get supplies to breed and house lovebirds.\", \"描述\": \"Lovebirds usually live in holes in trees, rocks or shrubs in the wild. Buy the supplies to give your lovebirds a home where they feel comfortable and can breed successfully.\\nGet your lovebirds a cage of no less than 18x18x12 inches with the bars spaced no more than 3/4\\\" inch apart. Try and purchase a square or rectangular cage so they have places to hide.\\nPlace different sized perches in the cage along with toys to keep the lovebirds happy and stimulated. Avoid wooden\\nPut separate water and food dishes in the cage away from the bottom.\\nClean the cage and dishes daily to keep your lovebirds healthy. Disinfect the cage once a week.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Find a pair of lovebirds to breed.\", \"描述\": \"Choose the best lovebirds to breed. This can help ensure the health of the birds and the breed.\\nCheck that the lovebirds you want to mate are not related. This may require a DNA test.\\nMake sure the birds have not mated for more than 2 clutches, which can cause them serious illness.\\nAvoid mixing breeds, which results in hybrid birds that don’t belong to any species of lovebirds.\\nMale and female lovebirds often look the same, so you may need to take your birds to a veterinarian to determine the sex.\\nContact groups such as the African Love Bird Society for places to get birds of the same species as yours.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Select a healthy mate.\", \"描述\": \"Choosing a healthy mate for your lovebird or two healthy lovebirds is important to maintaining their health and that of the breed. Look for the following qualities of a good lovebird specimen when selecting a mate or pair:\\nRounded body shape\\nGood ability to stand and walk\\nBroad rump and back\\nRounded and full breast\\nSharp and compact tail\\nLarge, wide, and rounded head\\nWide and appealing face\\nLarge, round, and bold eyes\\nEven, deep and clear plumage, or feathers\\nImmaculate feather condition\\nClean, large, and strong feet with straight toes and no scars\\nClean and large bill, or beak, free of scars.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Breeding the Chosen Pair\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Check the health of your lovebirds.\", \"描述\": \"You cannot introduce lovebirds unless you know that both animals are healthy. Take the pair to the vet to make sure that they’re healthy enough to breed.\\nLet your vet know that you plan to breed the lovebirds.\\nAsk her any questions you might have about the birds, their health, or breeding the pair.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Consider quarantining the animals.\", \"描述\": \"If you bring a new lovebird into your flock for mating, consider quarantining the pair for a few days. This can help ensure that both are healthy and that the female doesn’t get territorial or reject the male.\\nIf you are breeding lovebirds you already own, you likely don’t need to quarantine the pair\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Introduce the lovebird pair.\", \"描述\": \"When you know that each lovebird is healthy, introduce the pair. Take it slowly, as it could take a few days for the birds to get used to one another.\\nPlace the birds in cages next to one another before putting them in the same cage.\\nMove the birds to the same cage after a couple of days.\\nPut nesting materials in the cage to encourage the couple to start building a nest.\\nRemove any birds that are exhibiting signs of aggression or rejection of a potential partner.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Watch for signs of mating.\", \"描述\": \"Lovebirds are prolific reproducers and you may notice many signs of mating. Signs of mating can include:\\nCourtship\\nAggression\\nJealousy or being “hormonal”\\nCarrying material in the feathers\\nNest-building.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Provide the birds enough nutrition.\", \"描述\": \"Lovebirds that are breeding need dense, nutrition packed foods because of the stress on their bodies. Avoid giving them just seeds, which may not provide enough nutrients for the birds or their babies. Some examples of what you can mix together to feed your lovebirds are:\\nCooked elbow macaroni\\nPearl barley\\nFrozen vegetables\\nGranulated sea kelp\\nWhole grain brown rice\\nApples\\nGreens\\nCereal, toast or crackers\\nCuttlebone.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Check for eggs.\", \"描述\": \"The only way to be certain that your lovebirds have mated is by checking for eggs. In most cases, the female lovebird will lay her first egg ten days after mating and then will brood, or sit on the eggs, after the second is laid.\\nLook at the nest every morning to see if there are any eggs. The female will generally lay eggs at night. She may produce one egg every other day, up to 5 or 6 eggs.\\nBe aware that two female lovebirds, if placed together. can lay up to 10 infertile eggs.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Allow the female to brood.\", \"描述\": \"It takes around 25 days for a female to brood, or sit on, her eggs. Let her brood uninterrupted for at least 10 days.\\nBe aware the female will only leave to excrete waste, drink, and have a bite of food. In most cases, the male will feed the female during brooding.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Figure out if eggs are fertile.\", \"描述\": \"It’s common to have infertile eggs, especially if a pair is too young or old. After allowing the female to brood for 10 days, you can check to see if the eggs are fertile.\\nHandle the eggs as gently as possible.\\nCheck each egg by holding an egg up to a light source, such as a flashlight and looking for a membrane, which is a sign the egg is fertile.\\nYou can also check by placing the egg in a shallow dish of warm water one week before it hatches. After five seconds, check if you can see a membrane.\\nBe aware that it is normal for eggs to not be fertile or for a baby to die in the egg.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Wait for the eggs to hatch.\", \"描述\": \"After between 21-26 days of brooding, your eggs may hatch. Be sure to not handle the eggs or the hatchlings for the first 6-8 weeks of life.\\nThe mother bird will feed the babies for 6-8 weeks from the nutritious food you provide.\\nRemove any unhatched eggs or baby lovebirds that die.\"}]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
6,938 |
How to Breed Malawi Cichlids
|
1. Optimizing the Tank for Breeding
1-1. Make sure your tank is big enough.
Cichlids need a tank that is at least 4 feet long (1.3 meters) in order to breed. This can ensure your cichlids have enough space to comfortably breed and hide if necessary.
Keep in mind that most people keep multiple cichlids in one tank, so the bigger the tank you can get, the more optimal the environment is for breeding.
1-2. Maintain high water quality.
Good water quality is important to keeping your Malawi cichlids healthy and happy. Making sure the water quality is appropriate to Malawis can also give them the best environment in which to breed.
Test the water with fish tank water testing, which you can get at most pet stores. These tests can identify problems with the water quality, such as if the water is too acidic. Malawi cichlids like alkaline water that is a pH of 8.0 or above. If the water is not alkaline enough, you can use a carbonate buffer, calcium, or magnesium buffer to raise the levels and make the water harder.
Make sure the water temperature is 80 °F (26.7 °C) (27 Celcius). You may also want to test that oxygen saturation in the tank exceeds 70%.
1-3. Filter the water.
Cichlids can create a lot of waste in their water. An important part of maintaining their water quality, which will also optimize breeding, is to filter it. It may also help the spawn survive.
Choose a gentle filter or a freshwater trickle filter, which is good for large stocked tanks with cichlids. Make sure you replace or clean your filter once a month or more often as necessary.
1-4. Arrange hiding spots.
Most tanks for Malawis do well with a layer of sand on the bottom. But they also like to have hiding spaces, especially during breeding. This will give your Malawi cichlids a place to breed and the fry, or baby fish, a place to hide from adults that may eat them.
Place a few flattish stones near one another on the bottom of the tank as breeding sites. You can also glue small stones together with aquarium silicone to form a “cave” in which the Malawis can breed and fry can hide.
Use a few small clay pots in the tank as hiding spaces. You can easily make these more natural—and beautiful—looking in the tank by using aquarium silicone to glue small stones on the pots.
2. Getting Your Cichlids Ready to Breed
2-1. Make sure you have males and females of each species.
There are several different species of Malawi cichlids and you likely have a mixture in your tank. Make sure that you have males and females of both species in the tank. This can prevent hybrids, which may not have the same beautiful color as their parents and could also be sterile. It can also ensure that males and females also have partners with which to breed in the event that a specific pairing doesn't work.
Be aware that most cichlid species are dimorphic, which means the males and females have distinct coloring patterns. If you have dimorphic fish and are unsure, you can check a guide to find a picture of the specific coloring.
Recognize that you may have difficulty discerning subtle color differences in dimorphic cichlids or your cichlids may be monomorphic. If this is the case, you'll need to “vent” them, which means checking the genital papilla. You can find this by taking your fish out of the water and finding its anal pore. Just underneath this is the genital papilla, and the female's is generally larger than the male's papilla.
2-2. Feed your cichlids appropriate amounts.
The health and vitality of your cichlids is important to breeding. Making sure that you feed—and not overfeed-- your cichlids This can optimize breeding and make sure the eggs and fry survive.
Make sure to feed your cichlids according to their specific species need, which can range from small shrimp to algae in the tank. In most cases, specialized cichlid food is enough to keep your cichlids healthy. Consider getting something with Spirulina flakes which is high in protein and other nutrients Malawi cichlids need.
Give your fish only as much food as they can consume in 20-30 seconds. Do this by sprinkling in food 3-4 times a day, which can ensure that each fish gets enough to eat and can prevent aggression. Avoid overfeeding your cichlids because this can lead to “bloat” and is often fatal.
2-3. Treat health issues.
Unhealthy fish do not make good breeding fish. If any of your Malawi cichlids are showing signs of illness, you'll need to treat them before they breed. If you don't know the cause, use a commercial fish medication. This can relieve the fish of any illnesses or parasites and help breeding.
Recognize typical symptoms of illness in fish: white spots or velvety patches on the body, missing scales, incomplete or ripped fins, bulging or cloudy eyes, ulcers or lesions, shaking and rapid breathing. You may also see behavioral signs of disease such as scraping against the tank, erratic swimming, listlessness, gasping at the surface, or sulking in a corner.
Talk to a pet store associate about commercial fish medications if you are unsure of what to get. Recognize that commercial fish medications are not regulated by laws or government agencies. This means the medication may not work or could harm your Malawi cichlids.
2-4. Check for readiness to breed.
Although there is no definitive way to tell if your Malawis are ready to breed, there are certain signs that males and females are ready to breed. Watching them to detect signs can help you figure out if your Malawis are preparing to breed. This can also let you know when to remove males that may eat the fry.
Look to see if the males are digging caves, which are actually nests, in the sand and near hiding spots.
Observe the shape of the female to see if she is slightly plumper than normal. If she is, this can be a sign that she is ready to lay eggs in the nest the male has dug.
2-5. Detect attraction in your cichlids.
Just as they exhibit certain signs of being ready to breed, Malawi cichlids also have specific behavior they use when trying to attract a mate. Looking for signs of attraction can alert you to watch for eggs and fry as well as remove the male so that he doesn't eat the babies.
See if the male fish starts shimmying towards the female and flicking water her way with his tail. If he does, the female may follow him to his designated spot. This begins the breeding process. If the female isn't ready, she may not follow the male and he may move on to another female.
2-6. Let nature take its course—or provide a little help.
Many people who breed cichlids have problems with the process while others can't keep their fish away from one another. If you have several males and females from each species and have a healthy, natural environment, your cichlids may just need a little time before they start breeding.
Keep in mind that cichlids are animals and will pair off naturally when they are ready. It make take a while for your cichlids to get used to their tank or their tank mates.
Make sure the tank is as natural and clean as possible. Adding a little sand, clean water, or some natural stones for hiding spots if you don't already have them may stimulate the desire to breed. You also need to make sure that you're not moving hiding spaces or caves around as they give your cichlids a sense of permanence and security. This can also help them relax and find a mate.
Check your feeding patterns. Overfed fish rarely breed. Is there food leftover in the tank? If so, consider cutting back one feeding a day and how long you feed the fish. For example, cut back to 20 second feedings 3 times a day to see if that helps. You can even cut down to one quality feedings a day if necessary. Use high quality foods and increase proteins with foods like spirulina.
2-7. Observe breeding.
If a female Malawi cichlid follows her male to his nest, then they will begin the breeding process. You can easily observe this by watching for the pair to continuously circle around one another, head to tail.
Be aware the male and female Malawi cichlids may stop every half circle so that the female can collect fertilized eggs in her mouth and the male can fertilize laid eggs. After the pair has mated the female will have a mouthful of eggs. Her throat will be distended and her face will look square like.
3. Taking Care of Your Female and Fry after Breeding
3-1. Allow the female to rest.
Once the Malawis have bred, the female will need some rest to allow the eggs to develop in her mouth. Not disturbing her for 5 days should be sufficient time for the female to rest. Be aware that she may not eat during this period.
Consider partitioning your tank so that the female can have her own space. This is especially true if you choose to not remove the male from the tank. Likewise, you can also put the female in a separate tank. Remember to disturb her as little as possible because she may spit out the eggs or even swallow them.
3-2. Look for the female to release the fry.
A female Malawi cichlid will hold her fertilized eggs in her mouth for about 21 days. At this point, she will begin to release the fry, or baby fish, from her mouth into the hiding spots or tank. Be aware that it may take a couple of days for the female to release the fry into the water.
Recognize that Malawi cichlids have relatively small batches of eggs—only 10-30. You may see anywhere from 1-30 fry, depending on their survival rate.
Make sure that there are hiding spots in the tank under or in which the fry can hide from males. Don't be surprised if the female takes the fry into her mouth several times. The females will eventually abandon their fry, and it's important for the young fish to have hiding spots.
3-3. Feed the fry.
Your fry will need nutritious food to develop into healthy Malawi cichlids. There are a number of different nutritious foods you can feed Malawi cichlid fry. You can also watch if they're eating enough of their food by watching their bodies with a magnifying glass. You can feed your fry the following foods to promote growth:
Brine shrimp
Daphnia
Microworms
Grindal worms
The fry are large and well developed, so infusoria is too small for them.
Warnings
Avoid feeding beef heart or foods high in fat. This can lead to liver damage in your cichlids.[20]
X
Research source
Tubifex and blood worms can cause fatal bloat.
Avoid “stripping,” or manually removing, fry from the female. This can lead to high rates of mortality because the fry are too weak.[21]
X
Research source
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:58:37",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Optimizing the Tank for Breeding\\n1-1. Make sure your tank is big enough.\\nCichlids need a tank that is at least 4 feet long (1.3 meters) in order to breed. This can ensure your cichlids have enough space to comfortably breed and hide if necessary. \\nKeep in mind that most people keep multiple cichlids in one tank, so the bigger the tank you can get, the more optimal the environment is for breeding.\\n1-2. Maintain high water quality.\\nGood water quality is important to keeping your Malawi cichlids healthy and happy. Making sure the water quality is appropriate to Malawis can also give them the best environment in which to breed.\\nTest the water with fish tank water testing, which you can get at most pet stores. These tests can identify problems with the water quality, such as if the water is too acidic. Malawi cichlids like alkaline water that is a pH of 8.0 or above. If the water is not alkaline enough, you can use a carbonate buffer, calcium, or magnesium buffer to raise the levels and make the water harder.\\nMake sure the water temperature is 80 °F (26.7 °C) (27 Celcius). You may also want to test that oxygen saturation in the tank exceeds 70%.\\n1-3. Filter the water.\\nCichlids can create a lot of waste in their water. An important part of maintaining their water quality, which will also optimize breeding, is to filter it. It may also help the spawn survive.\\nChoose a gentle filter or a freshwater trickle filter, which is good for large stocked tanks with cichlids. Make sure you replace or clean your filter once a month or more often as necessary.\\n1-4. Arrange hiding spots.\\nMost tanks for Malawis do well with a layer of sand on the bottom. But they also like to have hiding spaces, especially during breeding. This will give your Malawi cichlids a place to breed and the fry, or baby fish, a place to hide from adults that may eat them.\\nPlace a few flattish stones near one another on the bottom of the tank as breeding sites. You can also glue small stones together with aquarium silicone to form a “cave” in which the Malawis can breed and fry can hide.\\nUse a few small clay pots in the tank as hiding spaces. You can easily make these more natural—and beautiful—looking in the tank by using aquarium silicone to glue small stones on the pots.\\n2. Getting Your Cichlids Ready to Breed\\n2-1. Make sure you have males and females of each species.\\nThere are several different species of Malawi cichlids and you likely have a mixture in your tank. Make sure that you have males and females of both species in the tank. This can prevent hybrids, which may not have the same beautiful color as their parents and could also be sterile. It can also ensure that males and females also have partners with which to breed in the event that a specific pairing doesn't work.\\nBe aware that most cichlid species are dimorphic, which means the males and females have distinct coloring patterns. If you have dimorphic fish and are unsure, you can check a guide to find a picture of the specific coloring.\\nRecognize that you may have difficulty discerning subtle color differences in dimorphic cichlids or your cichlids may be monomorphic. If this is the case, you'll need to “vent” them, which means checking the genital papilla. You can find this by taking your fish out of the water and finding its anal pore. Just underneath this is the genital papilla, and the female's is generally larger than the male's papilla.\\n2-2. Feed your cichlids appropriate amounts.\\nThe health and vitality of your cichlids is important to breeding. Making sure that you feed—and not overfeed-- your cichlids This can optimize breeding and make sure the eggs and fry survive.\\nMake sure to feed your cichlids according to their specific species need, which can range from small shrimp to algae in the tank. In most cases, specialized cichlid food is enough to keep your cichlids healthy. Consider getting something with Spirulina flakes which is high in protein and other nutrients Malawi cichlids need.\\nGive your fish only as much food as they can consume in 20-30 seconds. Do this by sprinkling in food 3-4 times a day, which can ensure that each fish gets enough to eat and can prevent aggression. Avoid overfeeding your cichlids because this can lead to “bloat” and is often fatal.\\n2-3. Treat health issues.\\nUnhealthy fish do not make good breeding fish. If any of your Malawi cichlids are showing signs of illness, you'll need to treat them before they breed. If you don't know the cause, use a commercial fish medication. This can relieve the fish of any illnesses or parasites and help breeding.\\nRecognize typical symptoms of illness in fish: white spots or velvety patches on the body, missing scales, incomplete or ripped fins, bulging or cloudy eyes, ulcers or lesions, shaking and rapid breathing. You may also see behavioral signs of disease such as scraping against the tank, erratic swimming, listlessness, gasping at the surface, or sulking in a corner.\\nTalk to a pet store associate about commercial fish medications if you are unsure of what to get. Recognize that commercial fish medications are not regulated by laws or government agencies. This means the medication may not work or could harm your Malawi cichlids.\\n2-4. Check for readiness to breed.\\nAlthough there is no definitive way to tell if your Malawis are ready to breed, there are certain signs that males and females are ready to breed. Watching them to detect signs can help you figure out if your Malawis are preparing to breed. This can also let you know when to remove males that may eat the fry.\\nLook to see if the males are digging caves, which are actually nests, in the sand and near hiding spots.\\nObserve the shape of the female to see if she is slightly plumper than normal. If she is, this can be a sign that she is ready to lay eggs in the nest the male has dug.\\n2-5. Detect attraction in your cichlids.\\nJust as they exhibit certain signs of being ready to breed, Malawi cichlids also have specific behavior they use when trying to attract a mate. Looking for signs of attraction can alert you to watch for eggs and fry as well as remove the male so that he doesn't eat the babies.\\nSee if the male fish starts shimmying towards the female and flicking water her way with his tail. If he does, the female may follow him to his designated spot. This begins the breeding process. If the female isn't ready, she may not follow the male and he may move on to another female.\\n2-6. Let nature take its course—or provide a little help.\\nMany people who breed cichlids have problems with the process while others can't keep their fish away from one another. If you have several males and females from each species and have a healthy, natural environment, your cichlids may just need a little time before they start breeding.\\nKeep in mind that cichlids are animals and will pair off naturally when they are ready. It make take a while for your cichlids to get used to their tank or their tank mates.\\nMake sure the tank is as natural and clean as possible. Adding a little sand, clean water, or some natural stones for hiding spots if you don't already have them may stimulate the desire to breed. You also need to make sure that you're not moving hiding spaces or caves around as they give your cichlids a sense of permanence and security. This can also help them relax and find a mate.\\nCheck your feeding patterns. Overfed fish rarely breed. Is there food leftover in the tank? If so, consider cutting back one feeding a day and how long you feed the fish. For example, cut back to 20 second feedings 3 times a day to see if that helps. You can even cut down to one quality feedings a day if necessary. Use high quality foods and increase proteins with foods like spirulina.\\n2-7. Observe breeding.\\nIf a female Malawi cichlid follows her male to his nest, then they will begin the breeding process. You can easily observe this by watching for the pair to continuously circle around one another, head to tail.\\nBe aware the male and female Malawi cichlids may stop every half circle so that the female can collect fertilized eggs in her mouth and the male can fertilize laid eggs. After the pair has mated the female will have a mouthful of eggs. Her throat will be distended and her face will look square like.\\n3. Taking Care of Your Female and Fry after Breeding\\n3-1. Allow the female to rest.\\nOnce the Malawis have bred, the female will need some rest to allow the eggs to develop in her mouth. Not disturbing her for 5 days should be sufficient time for the female to rest. Be aware that she may not eat during this period.\\nConsider partitioning your tank so that the female can have her own space. This is especially true if you choose to not remove the male from the tank. Likewise, you can also put the female in a separate tank. Remember to disturb her as little as possible because she may spit out the eggs or even swallow them.\\n3-2. Look for the female to release the fry.\\nA female Malawi cichlid will hold her fertilized eggs in her mouth for about 21 days. At this point, she will begin to release the fry, or baby fish, from her mouth into the hiding spots or tank. Be aware that it may take a couple of days for the female to release the fry into the water.\\nRecognize that Malawi cichlids have relatively small batches of eggs—only 10-30. You may see anywhere from 1-30 fry, depending on their survival rate.\\nMake sure that there are hiding spots in the tank under or in which the fry can hide from males. Don't be surprised if the female takes the fry into her mouth several times. The females will eventually abandon their fry, and it's important for the young fish to have hiding spots.\\n3-3. Feed the fry.\\nYour fry will need nutritious food to develop into healthy Malawi cichlids. There are a number of different nutritious foods you can feed Malawi cichlid fry. You can also watch if they're eating enough of their food by watching their bodies with a magnifying glass. You can feed your fry the following foods to promote growth:\\nBrine shrimp\\nDaphnia\\nMicroworms\\nGrindal worms\\nThe fry are large and well developed, so infusoria is too small for them.\\nWarnings\\nAvoid feeding beef heart or foods high in fat. This can lead to liver damage in your cichlids.[20]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\\n\\n\\n Tubifex and blood worms can cause fatal bloat.\\nAvoid “stripping,” or manually removing, fry from the female. This can lead to high rates of mortality because the fry are too weak.[21]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Malawi cichlids, which are sometimes called African cichlids, are several types of colorful fish that are originally from Lake Malawi in Africa. Many people keep a large community of these beautiful fish in tanks at home. If you have Malawi cichlids and want to breed them, it's important to give them a good environment in which to spawn. Optimizing the tank, getting your fish ready to breed, and considering other breeding basics can help ensure you optimally breed your cichlids.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Optimizing the Tank for Breeding\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Make sure your tank is big enough.\", \"描述\": \"Cichlids need a tank that is at least 4 feet long (1.3 meters) in order to breed. This can ensure your cichlids have enough space to comfortably breed and hide if necessary. \\nKeep in mind that most people keep multiple cichlids in one tank, so the bigger the tank you can get, the more optimal the environment is for breeding.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Maintain high water quality.\", \"描述\": \"Good water quality is important to keeping your Malawi cichlids healthy and happy. Making sure the water quality is appropriate to Malawis can also give them the best environment in which to breed.\\nTest the water with fish tank water testing, which you can get at most pet stores. These tests can identify problems with the water quality, such as if the water is too acidic. Malawi cichlids like alkaline water that is a pH of 8.0 or above. If the water is not alkaline enough, you can use a carbonate buffer, calcium, or magnesium buffer to raise the levels and make the water harder.\\nMake sure the water temperature is 80 °F (26.7 °C) (27 Celcius). You may also want to test that oxygen saturation in the tank exceeds 70%.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Filter the water.\", \"描述\": \"Cichlids can create a lot of waste in their water. An important part of maintaining their water quality, which will also optimize breeding, is to filter it. It may also help the spawn survive.\\nChoose a gentle filter or a freshwater trickle filter, which is good for large stocked tanks with cichlids. Make sure you replace or clean your filter once a month or more often as necessary.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Arrange hiding spots.\", \"描述\": \"Most tanks for Malawis do well with a layer of sand on the bottom. But they also like to have hiding spaces, especially during breeding. This will give your Malawi cichlids a place to breed and the fry, or baby fish, a place to hide from adults that may eat them.\\nPlace a few flattish stones near one another on the bottom of the tank as breeding sites. You can also glue small stones together with aquarium silicone to form a “cave” in which the Malawis can breed and fry can hide.\\nUse a few small clay pots in the tank as hiding spaces. You can easily make these more natural—and beautiful—looking in the tank by using aquarium silicone to glue small stones on the pots.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Getting Your Cichlids Ready to Breed\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Make sure you have males and females of each species.\", \"描述\": \"There are several different species of Malawi cichlids and you likely have a mixture in your tank. Make sure that you have males and females of both species in the tank. This can prevent hybrids, which may not have the same beautiful color as their parents and could also be sterile. It can also ensure that males and females also have partners with which to breed in the event that a specific pairing doesn't work.\\nBe aware that most cichlid species are dimorphic, which means the males and females have distinct coloring patterns. If you have dimorphic fish and are unsure, you can check a guide to find a picture of the specific coloring.\\nRecognize that you may have difficulty discerning subtle color differences in dimorphic cichlids or your cichlids may be monomorphic. If this is the case, you'll need to “vent” them, which means checking the genital papilla. You can find this by taking your fish out of the water and finding its anal pore. Just underneath this is the genital papilla, and the female's is generally larger than the male's papilla.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Feed your cichlids appropriate amounts.\", \"描述\": \"The health and vitality of your cichlids is important to breeding. Making sure that you feed—and not overfeed-- your cichlids This can optimize breeding and make sure the eggs and fry survive.\\nMake sure to feed your cichlids according to their specific species need, which can range from small shrimp to algae in the tank. In most cases, specialized cichlid food is enough to keep your cichlids healthy. Consider getting something with Spirulina flakes which is high in protein and other nutrients Malawi cichlids need.\\nGive your fish only as much food as they can consume in 20-30 seconds. Do this by sprinkling in food 3-4 times a day, which can ensure that each fish gets enough to eat and can prevent aggression. Avoid overfeeding your cichlids because this can lead to “bloat” and is often fatal.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Treat health issues.\", \"描述\": \"Unhealthy fish do not make good breeding fish. If any of your Malawi cichlids are showing signs of illness, you'll need to treat them before they breed. If you don't know the cause, use a commercial fish medication. This can relieve the fish of any illnesses or parasites and help breeding.\\nRecognize typical symptoms of illness in fish: white spots or velvety patches on the body, missing scales, incomplete or ripped fins, bulging or cloudy eyes, ulcers or lesions, shaking and rapid breathing. You may also see behavioral signs of disease such as scraping against the tank, erratic swimming, listlessness, gasping at the surface, or sulking in a corner.\\nTalk to a pet store associate about commercial fish medications if you are unsure of what to get. Recognize that commercial fish medications are not regulated by laws or government agencies. This means the medication may not work or could harm your Malawi cichlids.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Check for readiness to breed.\", \"描述\": \"Although there is no definitive way to tell if your Malawis are ready to breed, there are certain signs that males and females are ready to breed. Watching them to detect signs can help you figure out if your Malawis are preparing to breed. This can also let you know when to remove males that may eat the fry.\\nLook to see if the males are digging caves, which are actually nests, in the sand and near hiding spots.\\nObserve the shape of the female to see if she is slightly plumper than normal. If she is, this can be a sign that she is ready to lay eggs in the nest the male has dug.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Detect attraction in your cichlids.\", \"描述\": \"Just as they exhibit certain signs of being ready to breed, Malawi cichlids also have specific behavior they use when trying to attract a mate. Looking for signs of attraction can alert you to watch for eggs and fry as well as remove the male so that he doesn't eat the babies.\\nSee if the male fish starts shimmying towards the female and flicking water her way with his tail. If he does, the female may follow him to his designated spot. This begins the breeding process. If the female isn't ready, she may not follow the male and he may move on to another female.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Let nature take its course—or provide a little help.\", \"描述\": \"Many people who breed cichlids have problems with the process while others can't keep their fish away from one another. If you have several males and females from each species and have a healthy, natural environment, your cichlids may just need a little time before they start breeding.\\nKeep in mind that cichlids are animals and will pair off naturally when they are ready. It make take a while for your cichlids to get used to their tank or their tank mates.\\nMake sure the tank is as natural and clean as possible. Adding a little sand, clean water, or some natural stones for hiding spots if you don't already have them may stimulate the desire to breed. You also need to make sure that you're not moving hiding spaces or caves around as they give your cichlids a sense of permanence and security. This can also help them relax and find a mate.\\nCheck your feeding patterns. Overfed fish rarely breed. Is there food leftover in the tank? If so, consider cutting back one feeding a day and how long you feed the fish. For example, cut back to 20 second feedings 3 times a day to see if that helps. You can even cut down to one quality feedings a day if necessary. Use high quality foods and increase proteins with foods like spirulina.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Observe breeding.\", \"描述\": \"If a female Malawi cichlid follows her male to his nest, then they will begin the breeding process. You can easily observe this by watching for the pair to continuously circle around one another, head to tail.\\nBe aware the male and female Malawi cichlids may stop every half circle so that the female can collect fertilized eggs in her mouth and the male can fertilize laid eggs. After the pair has mated the female will have a mouthful of eggs. Her throat will be distended and her face will look square like.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Taking Care of Your Female and Fry after Breeding\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Allow the female to rest.\", \"描述\": \"Once the Malawis have bred, the female will need some rest to allow the eggs to develop in her mouth. Not disturbing her for 5 days should be sufficient time for the female to rest. Be aware that she may not eat during this period.\\nConsider partitioning your tank so that the female can have her own space. This is especially true if you choose to not remove the male from the tank. Likewise, you can also put the female in a separate tank. Remember to disturb her as little as possible because she may spit out the eggs or even swallow them.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Look for the female to release the fry.\", \"描述\": \"A female Malawi cichlid will hold her fertilized eggs in her mouth for about 21 days. At this point, she will begin to release the fry, or baby fish, from her mouth into the hiding spots or tank. Be aware that it may take a couple of days for the female to release the fry into the water.\\nRecognize that Malawi cichlids have relatively small batches of eggs—only 10-30. You may see anywhere from 1-30 fry, depending on their survival rate.\\nMake sure that there are hiding spots in the tank under or in which the fry can hide from males. Don't be surprised if the female takes the fry into her mouth several times. The females will eventually abandon their fry, and it's important for the young fish to have hiding spots.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Feed the fry.\", \"描述\": \"Your fry will need nutritious food to develop into healthy Malawi cichlids. There are a number of different nutritious foods you can feed Malawi cichlid fry. You can also watch if they're eating enough of their food by watching their bodies with a magnifying glass. You can feed your fry the following foods to promote growth:\\nBrine shrimp\\nDaphnia\\nMicroworms\\nGrindal worms\\nThe fry are large and well developed, so infusoria is too small for them.\"}], \"注意事项\": [\"Avoid feeding beef heart or foods high in fat. This can lead to liver damage in your cichlids.[20]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\\n\\n\\n Tubifex and blood worms can cause fatal bloat.\\n\", \"Avoid “stripping,” or manually removing, fry from the female. This can lead to high rates of mortality because the fry are too weak.[21]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
6,939 |
How to Breed Mealworms
|
1. Setting Up Your Equipment
1-1. Purchase suitable bins.
You'll need shallow bins with smooth walls made of either glass or plastic, so that the worms and beetles aren't able to climb out. 10 gallon (37.9 L) fish aquariums work very well, as do plastic storage containers. The containers need tops with tiny vents or airholes (wire mesh works, as does poking holes in the lid) that allow for airflow without letting the mealworms escape. Darkling beetles can't fly, but a lid is a safety precaution that you should have.
Getting at least two (three, if you want to start a very large colony) is essential because you'll need to separate the beetles from the larvae a few weeks into the process. If you fail to separate them, they will eat one another.
Do not use wooden containers, as mealworms are able to eat through these.
1-2. Prepare your mealworm substrate.
Mealworms feed on grains and cereals, and that's what you'll need to use as substrate. You can buy mealworm substrate from a feeder supply store, or you can make your own mixture from bran flakes, corn flakes, oatmeal and other cereals. The substrate should be ground to a fine powder to make it easier to pick out the worms and beetles when you need to move them.
Depending on the needs of the pet you are feeding, you can add bone meal, cricket chow or other ingredients to change the nutritional profile of the mealworms.
1-3. Buy mealworms.
The number of mealworms you buy for your starter stock depends on how many animals you aim to feed. If you need to use the meal worms to start feeding the animals right away, aim for 5,000 or so to begin with. It takes a few months for the mealworms to reproduce, so this population will get depleted at first.
If you don't mind waiting a few months for new mealworms, you can start with as few as 150 mealworms.
1-4. Set up a stable growing environment.
Mealworms reproduce best when they're kept at a steady temperature of 70 to 75 °F (21 to 24 °C). Choose a place in your home where you can keep the temperature consistent. The area should be clean and free of chemicals that could contaminate the colony.
A heated garage or basement would be the optimal place to keep your mealworms.
You can buy a heater to use near the containers to keep the temperature steady for your mealworms.
If you keep the mealworms too chilly, they won't reproduce.
Mealworms prefer a little bit of humidity in their environment—just make sure it isn't too humid, or else fungi might begin to grow. You can get a humidity meter online to help maintain a good balance.
2. Breeding the Mealworms
2-1. Assemble the first bin.
Line the first bin with 2 to 3 inches (5.1 to 7.6 cm) of substrate. Place your starter stock in the bin. Slice up an apple, a carrot, or a potato and place the slices on top of the substrate, to provide moisture for the mealworms. Put the lid on top of the bin. The mealworms will begin eating the substrate and reproducing. The mealworms may pull the food under the substrate to eat it, which is completely normal.
2-2. Wait for the mealworms to reproduce.
The mealworms, which are the larvae of the darkling beetle, will need 10 or more weeks to go through their life cycle and reproduce to make new mealworms. They will change from larvae to pupae, then from pupae to mature beetles. The beetles will copulate and lay eggs in the substrate, which hatch 1 to 4 weeks later. While you wait for this process to take place, check the bin every day and take care of the mealworms in the following ways:
Change out the cut vegetables if they appear to get moldy.
Keep the temperature stable at 70 to 75 °F (21 to 24 °C).
Remove dead mealworms or beetles and discard them.
2-3. Move the beetles after the eggs hatch.
Once the new larvae hatch from their eggs, you'll need to move all the pupae and beetles to the second container. If you keep them all in the same container, the beetles will feed on the larvae. When you move them to the second container, they'll lay eggs and continue the reproduction process. To move the beetles and pupae, do the following:
Prepare the second container by lining it with 2–3 inches (5.1–7.6 cm) of substrate.
Pick out the beetles and pupae by hand and place them in the new container. Use gloves if you want to. The beetles won't bite and rarely fly.
Put a few slices of carrots or potatoes in the second container, then cover.
2-4. Feed the mealworms to your pets.
Once the new larvae are big enough (before they become pupae) you may feed them to your pets. Remember that any mealworms left in the bin will mature and become pupae, then beetles. Continue moving pupae and beetles to the second container as they mature.
You can store mealworms in the refrigerator to make them keep longer if you want to set some aside for feeding your pets.
2-5. Sift the substrate and keep the process going.
Once the life cycle has completed in the first bin, the substrate will be depleted. Pick out all remaining mealworms and place them in a clean bin while you disinfect the first one. After cleaning and drying it thoroughly, add a few inches of new substrate, then replace the worms in the bin to begin the process again.
Tips
Check on them often.
You need to keep it in a warm dark place. Don't keep it in a cold place.
The more surface area the better.
Warnings
Some mealworms need to be separated from each other to pupate. They can be put together after they pupate.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:58:37",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Setting Up Your Equipment\\n1-1. Purchase suitable bins.\\nYou'll need shallow bins with smooth walls made of either glass or plastic, so that the worms and beetles aren't able to climb out. 10 gallon (37.9 L) fish aquariums work very well, as do plastic storage containers. The containers need tops with tiny vents or airholes (wire mesh works, as does poking holes in the lid) that allow for airflow without letting the mealworms escape. Darkling beetles can't fly, but a lid is a safety precaution that you should have.\\nGetting at least two (three, if you want to start a very large colony) is essential because you'll need to separate the beetles from the larvae a few weeks into the process. If you fail to separate them, they will eat one another.\\nDo not use wooden containers, as mealworms are able to eat through these.\\n1-2. Prepare your mealworm substrate.\\nMealworms feed on grains and cereals, and that's what you'll need to use as substrate. You can buy mealworm substrate from a feeder supply store, or you can make your own mixture from bran flakes, corn flakes, oatmeal and other cereals. The substrate should be ground to a fine powder to make it easier to pick out the worms and beetles when you need to move them.\\nDepending on the needs of the pet you are feeding, you can add bone meal, cricket chow or other ingredients to change the nutritional profile of the mealworms.\\n1-3. Buy mealworms.\\nThe number of mealworms you buy for your starter stock depends on how many animals you aim to feed. If you need to use the meal worms to start feeding the animals right away, aim for 5,000 or so to begin with. It takes a few months for the mealworms to reproduce, so this population will get depleted at first.\\nIf you don't mind waiting a few months for new mealworms, you can start with as few as 150 mealworms.\\n1-4. Set up a stable growing environment.\\nMealworms reproduce best when they're kept at a steady temperature of 70 to 75 °F (21 to 24 °C). Choose a place in your home where you can keep the temperature consistent. The area should be clean and free of chemicals that could contaminate the colony.\\nA heated garage or basement would be the optimal place to keep your mealworms.\\nYou can buy a heater to use near the containers to keep the temperature steady for your mealworms.\\nIf you keep the mealworms too chilly, they won't reproduce.\\nMealworms prefer a little bit of humidity in their environment—just make sure it isn't too humid, or else fungi might begin to grow. You can get a humidity meter online to help maintain a good balance.\\n2. Breeding the Mealworms\\n2-1. Assemble the first bin.\\nLine the first bin with 2 to 3 inches (5.1 to 7.6 cm) of substrate. Place your starter stock in the bin. Slice up an apple, a carrot, or a potato and place the slices on top of the substrate, to provide moisture for the mealworms. Put the lid on top of the bin. The mealworms will begin eating the substrate and reproducing. The mealworms may pull the food under the substrate to eat it, which is completely normal.\\n2-2. Wait for the mealworms to reproduce.\\nThe mealworms, which are the larvae of the darkling beetle, will need 10 or more weeks to go through their life cycle and reproduce to make new mealworms. They will change from larvae to pupae, then from pupae to mature beetles. The beetles will copulate and lay eggs in the substrate, which hatch 1 to 4 weeks later. While you wait for this process to take place, check the bin every day and take care of the mealworms in the following ways:\\nChange out the cut vegetables if they appear to get moldy.\\nKeep the temperature stable at 70 to 75 °F (21 to 24 °C).\\nRemove dead mealworms or beetles and discard them.\\n2-3. Move the beetles after the eggs hatch.\\nOnce the new larvae hatch from their eggs, you'll need to move all the pupae and beetles to the second container. If you keep them all in the same container, the beetles will feed on the larvae. When you move them to the second container, they'll lay eggs and continue the reproduction process. To move the beetles and pupae, do the following:\\nPrepare the second container by lining it with 2–3 inches (5.1–7.6 cm) of substrate.\\nPick out the beetles and pupae by hand and place them in the new container. Use gloves if you want to. The beetles won't bite and rarely fly.\\nPut a few slices of carrots or potatoes in the second container, then cover.\\n2-4. Feed the mealworms to your pets.\\nOnce the new larvae are big enough (before they become pupae) you may feed them to your pets. Remember that any mealworms left in the bin will mature and become pupae, then beetles. Continue moving pupae and beetles to the second container as they mature.\\nYou can store mealworms in the refrigerator to make them keep longer if you want to set some aside for feeding your pets.\\n2-5. Sift the substrate and keep the process going.\\nOnce the life cycle has completed in the first bin, the substrate will be depleted. Pick out all remaining mealworms and place them in a clean bin while you disinfect the first one. After cleaning and drying it thoroughly, add a few inches of new substrate, then replace the worms in the bin to begin the process again.\\nTips\\nCheck on them often.\\nYou need to keep it in a warm dark place. Don't keep it in a cold place.\\nThe more surface area the better.\\nWarnings\\nSome mealworms need to be separated from each other to pupate. They can be put together after they pupate.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"If you have hungry reptiles or fish to feed, breeding your own mealworms is an excellent way to save some cash and ensure your pets are getting proper nutrition. Mealworms are actually darkling beetles in the larval stage, so breeding them involves allowing the beetles to mature and reproduce.You'll need a few large containers, mealworm substrate, and a collection of mealworms in order to start your own colony. After a few weeks of waiting in anticipation, you should have a healthy batch of mealworms at the ready!\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Setting Up Your Equipment\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Purchase suitable bins.\", \"描述\": \"You'll need shallow bins with smooth walls made of either glass or plastic, so that the worms and beetles aren't able to climb out. 10 gallon (37.9 L) fish aquariums work very well, as do plastic storage containers. The containers need tops with tiny vents or airholes (wire mesh works, as does poking holes in the lid) that allow for airflow without letting the mealworms escape. Darkling beetles can't fly, but a lid is a safety precaution that you should have.\\nGetting at least two (three, if you want to start a very large colony) is essential because you'll need to separate the beetles from the larvae a few weeks into the process. If you fail to separate them, they will eat one another.\\nDo not use wooden containers, as mealworms are able to eat through these.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Prepare your mealworm substrate.\", \"描述\": \"Mealworms feed on grains and cereals, and that's what you'll need to use as substrate. You can buy mealworm substrate from a feeder supply store, or you can make your own mixture from bran flakes, corn flakes, oatmeal and other cereals. The substrate should be ground to a fine powder to make it easier to pick out the worms and beetles when you need to move them.\\nDepending on the needs of the pet you are feeding, you can add bone meal, cricket chow or other ingredients to change the nutritional profile of the mealworms.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Buy mealworms.\", \"描述\": \"The number of mealworms you buy for your starter stock depends on how many animals you aim to feed. If you need to use the meal worms to start feeding the animals right away, aim for 5,000 or so to begin with. It takes a few months for the mealworms to reproduce, so this population will get depleted at first.\\nIf you don't mind waiting a few months for new mealworms, you can start with as few as 150 mealworms.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Set up a stable growing environment.\", \"描述\": \"Mealworms reproduce best when they're kept at a steady temperature of 70 to 75 °F (21 to 24 °C). Choose a place in your home where you can keep the temperature consistent. The area should be clean and free of chemicals that could contaminate the colony.\\nA heated garage or basement would be the optimal place to keep your mealworms.\\nYou can buy a heater to use near the containers to keep the temperature steady for your mealworms.\\nIf you keep the mealworms too chilly, they won't reproduce.\\nMealworms prefer a little bit of humidity in their environment—just make sure it isn't too humid, or else fungi might begin to grow. You can get a humidity meter online to help maintain a good balance.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Breeding the Mealworms\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Assemble the first bin.\", \"描述\": \"Line the first bin with 2 to 3 inches (5.1 to 7.6 cm) of substrate. Place your starter stock in the bin. Slice up an apple, a carrot, or a potato and place the slices on top of the substrate, to provide moisture for the mealworms. Put the lid on top of the bin. The mealworms will begin eating the substrate and reproducing. The mealworms may pull the food under the substrate to eat it, which is completely normal.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Wait for the mealworms to reproduce.\", \"描述\": \"The mealworms, which are the larvae of the darkling beetle, will need 10 or more weeks to go through their life cycle and reproduce to make new mealworms. They will change from larvae to pupae, then from pupae to mature beetles. The beetles will copulate and lay eggs in the substrate, which hatch 1 to 4 weeks later. While you wait for this process to take place, check the bin every day and take care of the mealworms in the following ways:\\nChange out the cut vegetables if they appear to get moldy.\\nKeep the temperature stable at 70 to 75 °F (21 to 24 °C).\\nRemove dead mealworms or beetles and discard them.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Move the beetles after the eggs hatch.\", \"描述\": \"Once the new larvae hatch from their eggs, you'll need to move all the pupae and beetles to the second container. If you keep them all in the same container, the beetles will feed on the larvae. When you move them to the second container, they'll lay eggs and continue the reproduction process. To move the beetles and pupae, do the following:\\nPrepare the second container by lining it with 2–3 inches (5.1–7.6 cm) of substrate.\\nPick out the beetles and pupae by hand and place them in the new container. Use gloves if you want to. The beetles won't bite and rarely fly.\\nPut a few slices of carrots or potatoes in the second container, then cover.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Feed the mealworms to your pets.\", \"描述\": \"Once the new larvae are big enough (before they become pupae) you may feed them to your pets. Remember that any mealworms left in the bin will mature and become pupae, then beetles. Continue moving pupae and beetles to the second container as they mature.\\nYou can store mealworms in the refrigerator to make them keep longer if you want to set some aside for feeding your pets.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Sift the substrate and keep the process going.\", \"描述\": \"Once the life cycle has completed in the first bin, the substrate will be depleted. Pick out all remaining mealworms and place them in a clean bin while you disinfect the first one. After cleaning and drying it thoroughly, add a few inches of new substrate, then replace the worms in the bin to begin the process again.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Check on them often.\\n\", \"You need to keep it in a warm dark place. Don't keep it in a cold place.\\n\", \"The more surface area the better.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Some mealworms need to be separated from each other to pupate. They can be put together after they pupate.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
6,940 |
How to Breed Molly Fish
|
1. Creating a Beneficial Breeding Environment for Mollies
1-1. Allow the fish to mate with one another.
Mollies are hierarchical fish. Whichever male has the biggest fins and boldest colors leads the way. This means the ideal combination of male and female fish is one male for multiple females.
You may see the male under the female; this is how the fish copulate.
If their mating is successful, their babies should be born in about 3 to 5 weeks.
1-2. Remove the female from the aquarium before birthing begins.
Place the female in a separate “nurser” tank if possible. The male fish often chases around the female, wishing to copulate more, and this could cause stress on the pregnancy. You’ll be able to tell the molly is pregnant by a very distended belly.
If the “nurser” tank is not possible, consider using an aquarium net breeder, which is essentially a mesh cube with plastic edges, to protect the mother and baby fish.
Removing the mother from the main aquarium is also to protect the fry. Molly fish often cannibalize their babies.
Don’t wait too close to the birth date. Stressed mollies may have more aborted births and stillborn.
1-3. Reintroduce the female into the main aquarium.
The female may eat her own young, so it’s best to move her back with the other fish for the safety of the fry. Roughly once per month, however, the mother may need to be re-segregated since female molly fish can retain multiple fertilized eggs for nearly half a year.
2. Caring for the Fry
2-1. Feed the fry.
Use ground fish food of the same type that you feed to your adult mollies. Flake food should be used as a primary base. Supplement the normal meals with a broad variety of denser meals.
Various worms are great for molly fish. Grindal worms, black worms, and blood worms work well.
Brine shrimp, live or frozen, are a preferred source of food.
Molly fish even eat algae, which is their primary food in the wild.
2-2. Wait for the fish to mature.
It will take around nearly two months to be able to tell males and females apart. Once they’ve doubled in size, it’s probably safe to introduce them into the main tank with the rest of the fish.
Another good way to tell if they’re safe to interact with the other fish is if they are too big to fit into the other fishes mouths.
2-3. Separate the males and the females.
Once you know the gender of the mollies, you'll need to ensure more breeding doesn't take place. They will, in fact, breed between brothers and sisters. Try to separate the male and female fish before they are eight weeks old, which is when they reach sexual maturity.
3. Ensuring You Have the Right Setup to Breed Mollies
3-1. Purchase an aquarium/tank.
You'll need a tank that holds around 15g – 30g water (56L-113L). In general, molly fish do better with larger fish tanks and more room to swim around. Smaller tanks may create a variety of problems:
Less swimming room to get away from aggressive fish, which creates stress
Harder to clean, which can lead to sickness
3-2. Place any decorations in the aquarium.
Choose such decorations as rocks, air filters and decorative gravel. In general, molly fish should have enough room to swim around quite freely, but also enough decorations to hide from bully fish. The less aggressive fish will more around in the tank to hide from bully fish. If there aren’t enough hiding spots, the fish could become stressed.
3-3. Anchor freshwater plants below the substrate.
The substrate should provide the base to your tank, but also serve potential nutrients to any plants inside the aquarium. In general, the substrate should be comprised of two levels:
The top level should be 2 inches of something sturdy, like sand, pebbles, or gravel.
The bottom level should be 1-2 inches of nutrient-rich material.
3-4. Fill the tank with water near the top.
Up to 2 inches (4cm) under the brim of the tank is ideal. The water should be warm – 78-82° F (25-27° C) – so the molly fish are comfortable, like they would be in tropical waters. Do not overfill the tank or put in cold water.
An aquarium heater will probably be necessary.
Replace water on a fairly regimented schedule. Daily minimal water changes, or up to 30% per week, are recommend.
3-5. Avoid aquarium salt.
Some molly fish are brackish, which means they have a varying requirement for freshwater and saltwater. There is a fairly large debate, however, about whether or not they need marine salt in the aquarium. Some experts contend most molly fish never see salty or brackish waters, and it’s not necessary for the water.
Some sources indicate that approximately one Tbsp per five gallons of water is good.
The addition of salt may act as a healing attribute, a way to overcome slightly dirty water.
If you buy an exotic breed of molly, you may want to consult with an expert to be sure you can go completely without salt.
3-6. Install the filter according to the instructions.
Ultimately, the water should have a fairly neutral Ph level between 7 and 8. Some experts recommend increasing the Ph by just a bit, to 8.4 After the tank is filled, adjustments to the filter and water may be necessary.
3-7. Allow the tank to cycle before adding the fish.
It is best to allow the tank to cycle, because the water is lacking beneficial bacteria, which leaves fish susceptible to illness and disease. Carefully monitor your aquarium if you can't wait before adding your fish.
3-8. Choose how many mollies you want.
Generally, a good fit for the fish is a couple mollies per 10 gallon tank. They need ample room to swim around and, if you end up with multiple fry, room to hide from the more aggressive fish. If you want more than just a couple, you should use the recommended larger tank.
3-9. Purchase your mollies.
Go to your local pet store and pick male and female fish. While there are several varieties of molly fish, they are extremely easy to breed because all colors are the same species, and all males and females breed with one another. Some recommend getting the subspecies of mollies for quicker breeding. You can ask the employees at the store for help, or you can do it yourself.
Male molly have a gonopodium, a long stick-like fin used to fertilize the female, on his lower half.
Female molly have a softer, fan-shaped anal fin, which is also on the lower half of the body.
3-10. Transfer your fish to the tank.
Set the bag of fish in the tank for 10-15 minutes, to allow the water to become the same temperature. Release the fish into the aquarium/tank by using a net to get the fish from the bag.
Do not introduce the water from the bag into the tank.
Feed the other fish before adding in the new mollies. You don’t want them to think the mollies are food.
Tips
Most females are already pregnant when you buy them. The hardest part is keeping the fry away from the hungry parents.
Use a sponge filter with baby mollies. This will prevent them from being sucked up into the filter.
Warnings
Ensure that the fish won't overheat, or the water freeze when you are taking the mollies home. Don't let them sit for too long in the plastic bag before releasing them into the aquarium.
Do not get two males for a small tank or they will fight.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:58:38",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Creating a Beneficial Breeding Environment for Mollies\\n1-1. Allow the fish to mate with one another.\\nMollies are hierarchical fish. Whichever male has the biggest fins and boldest colors leads the way. This means the ideal combination of male and female fish is one male for multiple females. \\nYou may see the male under the female; this is how the fish copulate.\\nIf their mating is successful, their babies should be born in about 3 to 5 weeks.\\n1-2. Remove the female from the aquarium before birthing begins.\\nPlace the female in a separate “nurser” tank if possible. The male fish often chases around the female, wishing to copulate more, and this could cause stress on the pregnancy. You’ll be able to tell the molly is pregnant by a very distended belly.\\nIf the “nurser” tank is not possible, consider using an aquarium net breeder, which is essentially a mesh cube with plastic edges, to protect the mother and baby fish.\\nRemoving the mother from the main aquarium is also to protect the fry. Molly fish often cannibalize their babies.\\nDon’t wait too close to the birth date. Stressed mollies may have more aborted births and stillborn.\\n1-3. Reintroduce the female into the main aquarium.\\nThe female may eat her own young, so it’s best to move her back with the other fish for the safety of the fry. Roughly once per month, however, the mother may need to be re-segregated since female molly fish can retain multiple fertilized eggs for nearly half a year.\\n2. Caring for the Fry\\n2-1. Feed the fry.\\nUse ground fish food of the same type that you feed to your adult mollies. Flake food should be used as a primary base. Supplement the normal meals with a broad variety of denser meals. \\nVarious worms are great for molly fish. Grindal worms, black worms, and blood worms work well.\\nBrine shrimp, live or frozen, are a preferred source of food.\\nMolly fish even eat algae, which is their primary food in the wild.\\n2-2. Wait for the fish to mature.\\nIt will take around nearly two months to be able to tell males and females apart. Once they’ve doubled in size, it’s probably safe to introduce them into the main tank with the rest of the fish. \\nAnother good way to tell if they’re safe to interact with the other fish is if they are too big to fit into the other fishes mouths.\\n2-3. Separate the males and the females.\\nOnce you know the gender of the mollies, you'll need to ensure more breeding doesn't take place. They will, in fact, breed between brothers and sisters. Try to separate the male and female fish before they are eight weeks old, which is when they reach sexual maturity.\\n3. Ensuring You Have the Right Setup to Breed Mollies\\n3-1. Purchase an aquarium/tank.\\nYou'll need a tank that holds around 15g – 30g water (56L-113L). In general, molly fish do better with larger fish tanks and more room to swim around. Smaller tanks may create a variety of problems:\\nLess swimming room to get away from aggressive fish, which creates stress\\nHarder to clean, which can lead to sickness\\n3-2. Place any decorations in the aquarium.\\nChoose such decorations as rocks, air filters and decorative gravel. In general, molly fish should have enough room to swim around quite freely, but also enough decorations to hide from bully fish. The less aggressive fish will more around in the tank to hide from bully fish. If there aren’t enough hiding spots, the fish could become stressed.\\n3-3. Anchor freshwater plants below the substrate.\\nThe substrate should provide the base to your tank, but also serve potential nutrients to any plants inside the aquarium. In general, the substrate should be comprised of two levels:\\nThe top level should be 2 inches of something sturdy, like sand, pebbles, or gravel.\\nThe bottom level should be 1-2 inches of nutrient-rich material.\\n3-4. Fill the tank with water near the top.\\nUp to 2 inches (4cm) under the brim of the tank is ideal. The water should be warm – 78-82° F (25-27° C) – so the molly fish are comfortable, like they would be in tropical waters. Do not overfill the tank or put in cold water.\\nAn aquarium heater will probably be necessary.\\nReplace water on a fairly regimented schedule. Daily minimal water changes, or up to 30% per week, are recommend.\\n3-5. Avoid aquarium salt.\\nSome molly fish are brackish, which means they have a varying requirement for freshwater and saltwater. There is a fairly large debate, however, about whether or not they need marine salt in the aquarium. Some experts contend most molly fish never see salty or brackish waters, and it’s not necessary for the water.\\nSome sources indicate that approximately one Tbsp per five gallons of water is good.\\nThe addition of salt may act as a healing attribute, a way to overcome slightly dirty water.\\nIf you buy an exotic breed of molly, you may want to consult with an expert to be sure you can go completely without salt.\\n3-6. Install the filter according to the instructions.\\nUltimately, the water should have a fairly neutral Ph level between 7 and 8. Some experts recommend increasing the Ph by just a bit, to 8.4 After the tank is filled, adjustments to the filter and water may be necessary.\\n3-7. Allow the tank to cycle before adding the fish.\\nIt is best to allow the tank to cycle, because the water is lacking beneficial bacteria, which leaves fish susceptible to illness and disease. Carefully monitor your aquarium if you can't wait before adding your fish.\\n3-8. Choose how many mollies you want.\\nGenerally, a good fit for the fish is a couple mollies per 10 gallon tank. They need ample room to swim around and, if you end up with multiple fry, room to hide from the more aggressive fish. If you want more than just a couple, you should use the recommended larger tank.\\n3-9. Purchase your mollies.\\nGo to your local pet store and pick male and female fish. While there are several varieties of molly fish, they are extremely easy to breed because all colors are the same species, and all males and females breed with one another. Some recommend getting the subspecies of mollies for quicker breeding. You can ask the employees at the store for help, or you can do it yourself.\\nMale molly have a gonopodium, a long stick-like fin used to fertilize the female, on his lower half.\\nFemale molly have a softer, fan-shaped anal fin, which is also on the lower half of the body.\\n3-10. Transfer your fish to the tank.\\nSet the bag of fish in the tank for 10-15 minutes, to allow the water to become the same temperature. Release the fish into the aquarium/tank by using a net to get the fish from the bag.\\nDo not introduce the water from the bag into the tank.\\nFeed the other fish before adding in the new mollies. You don’t want them to think the mollies are food.\\nTips\\nMost females are already pregnant when you buy them. The hardest part is keeping the fry away from the hungry parents.\\nUse a sponge filter with baby mollies. This will prevent them from being sucked up into the filter.\\nWarnings\\nEnsure that the fish won't overheat, or the water freeze when you are taking the mollies home. Don't let them sit for too long in the plastic bag before releasing them into the aquarium.\\nDo not get two males for a small tank or they will fight.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Mollies are an ideal choice of live bearing fish (i.e. they don't lay eggs) to place in a community aquarium or fish tank. For the most part, mollies are very easy to breed. A single female can produce over one hundred baby mollies, also called fry, in one live birth. They also come in a variety of colors, and work well with a wide community of other fish. Prepare your tank and yourself beforehand, and breeding mollies should be a breeze.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Creating a Beneficial Breeding Environment for Mollies\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Allow the fish to mate with one another.\", \"描述\": \"Mollies are hierarchical fish. Whichever male has the biggest fins and boldest colors leads the way. This means the ideal combination of male and female fish is one male for multiple females. \\nYou may see the male under the female; this is how the fish copulate.\\nIf their mating is successful, their babies should be born in about 3 to 5 weeks.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Remove the female from the aquarium before birthing begins.\", \"描述\": \"Place the female in a separate “nurser” tank if possible. The male fish often chases around the female, wishing to copulate more, and this could cause stress on the pregnancy. You’ll be able to tell the molly is pregnant by a very distended belly.\\nIf the “nurser” tank is not possible, consider using an aquarium net breeder, which is essentially a mesh cube with plastic edges, to protect the mother and baby fish.\\nRemoving the mother from the main aquarium is also to protect the fry. Molly fish often cannibalize their babies.\\nDon’t wait too close to the birth date. Stressed mollies may have more aborted births and stillborn.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Reintroduce the female into the main aquarium.\", \"描述\": \"The female may eat her own young, so it’s best to move her back with the other fish for the safety of the fry. Roughly once per month, however, the mother may need to be re-segregated since female molly fish can retain multiple fertilized eggs for nearly half a year.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Caring for the Fry\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Feed the fry.\", \"描述\": \"Use ground fish food of the same type that you feed to your adult mollies. Flake food should be used as a primary base. Supplement the normal meals with a broad variety of denser meals. \\nVarious worms are great for molly fish. Grindal worms, black worms, and blood worms work well.\\nBrine shrimp, live or frozen, are a preferred source of food.\\nMolly fish even eat algae, which is their primary food in the wild.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Wait for the fish to mature.\", \"描述\": \"It will take around nearly two months to be able to tell males and females apart. Once they’ve doubled in size, it’s probably safe to introduce them into the main tank with the rest of the fish. \\nAnother good way to tell if they’re safe to interact with the other fish is if they are too big to fit into the other fishes mouths.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Separate the males and the females.\", \"描述\": \"Once you know the gender of the mollies, you'll need to ensure more breeding doesn't take place. They will, in fact, breed between brothers and sisters. Try to separate the male and female fish before they are eight weeks old, which is when they reach sexual maturity.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Ensuring You Have the Right Setup to Breed Mollies\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Purchase an aquarium/tank.\", \"描述\": \"You'll need a tank that holds around 15g – 30g water (56L-113L). In general, molly fish do better with larger fish tanks and more room to swim around. Smaller tanks may create a variety of problems:\\nLess swimming room to get away from aggressive fish, which creates stress\\nHarder to clean, which can lead to sickness\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Place any decorations in the aquarium.\", \"描述\": \"Choose such decorations as rocks, air filters and decorative gravel. In general, molly fish should have enough room to swim around quite freely, but also enough decorations to hide from bully fish. The less aggressive fish will more around in the tank to hide from bully fish. If there aren’t enough hiding spots, the fish could become stressed.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Anchor freshwater plants below the substrate.\", \"描述\": \"The substrate should provide the base to your tank, but also serve potential nutrients to any plants inside the aquarium. In general, the substrate should be comprised of two levels:\\nThe top level should be 2 inches of something sturdy, like sand, pebbles, or gravel.\\nThe bottom level should be 1-2 inches of nutrient-rich material.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Fill the tank with water near the top.\", \"描述\": \"Up to 2 inches (4cm) under the brim of the tank is ideal. The water should be warm – 78-82° F (25-27° C) – so the molly fish are comfortable, like they would be in tropical waters. Do not overfill the tank or put in cold water.\\nAn aquarium heater will probably be necessary.\\nReplace water on a fairly regimented schedule. Daily minimal water changes, or up to 30% per week, are recommend.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Avoid aquarium salt.\", \"描述\": \"Some molly fish are brackish, which means they have a varying requirement for freshwater and saltwater. There is a fairly large debate, however, about whether or not they need marine salt in the aquarium. Some experts contend most molly fish never see salty or brackish waters, and it’s not necessary for the water.\\nSome sources indicate that approximately one Tbsp per five gallons of water is good.\\nThe addition of salt may act as a healing attribute, a way to overcome slightly dirty water.\\nIf you buy an exotic breed of molly, you may want to consult with an expert to be sure you can go completely without salt.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Install the filter according to the instructions.\", \"描述\": \"Ultimately, the water should have a fairly neutral Ph level between 7 and 8. Some experts recommend increasing the Ph by just a bit, to 8.4 After the tank is filled, adjustments to the filter and water may be necessary.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Allow the tank to cycle before adding the fish.\", \"描述\": \"It is best to allow the tank to cycle, because the water is lacking beneficial bacteria, which leaves fish susceptible to illness and disease. Carefully monitor your aquarium if you can't wait before adding your fish.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Choose how many mollies you want.\", \"描述\": \"Generally, a good fit for the fish is a couple mollies per 10 gallon tank. They need ample room to swim around and, if you end up with multiple fry, room to hide from the more aggressive fish. If you want more than just a couple, you should use the recommended larger tank.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Purchase your mollies.\", \"描述\": \"Go to your local pet store and pick male and female fish. While there are several varieties of molly fish, they are extremely easy to breed because all colors are the same species, and all males and females breed with one another. Some recommend getting the subspecies of mollies for quicker breeding. You can ask the employees at the store for help, or you can do it yourself.\\nMale molly have a gonopodium, a long stick-like fin used to fertilize the female, on his lower half.\\nFemale molly have a softer, fan-shaped anal fin, which is also on the lower half of the body.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Transfer your fish to the tank.\", \"描述\": \"Set the bag of fish in the tank for 10-15 minutes, to allow the water to become the same temperature. Release the fish into the aquarium/tank by using a net to get the fish from the bag.\\nDo not introduce the water from the bag into the tank.\\nFeed the other fish before adding in the new mollies. You don’t want them to think the mollies are food.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Most females are already pregnant when you buy them. The hardest part is keeping the fry away from the hungry parents.\\n\", \"Use a sponge filter with baby mollies. This will prevent them from being sucked up into the filter.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Ensure that the fish won't overheat, or the water freeze when you are taking the mollies home. Don't let them sit for too long in the plastic bag before releasing them into the aquarium.\\n\", \"Do not get two males for a small tank or they will fight.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
6,941 |
How to Breed Neon Tetras
|
1. Tank Setup
1-1. Set up a breeding tank.
You will need more than one tank in order to breed tetras, so get another one if you do not have one already. You can use a 12 x 8 x 8 inch (30 x 20 x 20cm) tank to breed your tetras. You will use this tank to bring a male and female tetra together for breeding and also as a place incubate the eggs and baby tetras.
You can set this tank up similar to how you have your normal tank set up. Just keep in mind that the water will need to be soft and kept at a specific temperature and acidity in order for breeding to happen.
1-2. Prepare the water.
When you are breeding neon tetras, the water in your breeding tank needs to be kept at about 77 degrees Fahrenheit. The water also needs to be soft (low-mineral content) and slightly acidic (with a pH of 5-6) in order for neon tetras to thrive. This type of environment is what best mimics the natural environment of a neon tetra. If the water in your tank does not meet these requirements, you will need to:
get a tank thermometer to monitor the water temperature.
test the pH of the water daily using pH test strips (available at pet stores)
mix one part tap water with three parts reverse osmosis water to make soft water for your tank OR use fresh rainwater
1-3. Get a corner box filter for your tank.
A filtration system can help to remove waste products and bacteria from the aquarium, which will protect the health of your tetras. A filtration system can also remove bacteria from the aquarium and keep it looking its best. Corner box filters are ideal for breeding tanks because they are gentle.
1-4. Place the tank in a dark or low-light place.
Tetras need a dark environment to thrive, so do not place your tetras near a sunny window or in another place that gets a lot of light. Tetras do not need total darkness, but they do need to be placed somewhere that gets only a small amount of light each day.
You may even want to cover the back and sides of your tank in dark paper to block out excess light.
2. Introducing the Tetras
2-1. Sex your tetras.
It is not absolutely necessary to sex your tetras before you begin breeding because you can put several into the tank together and breeding should occur. However, if you want to sex your tetras, male and female tetras have some distinct differences that can help you tell them apart.
Female tetras tend to be wider and fatter than male tetras.
Some breeders also claim that male tetras have a straight stripe and females have a crooked stripe.
2-2. Place adult tetras into the tank.
Evening is the best time to introduce your adult tetras into the tank, so plan to put your adult tetras into the tank after the sun has set. Keep in mind that the tetras that you use for breeding will have to be at least 12 weeks old or breeding may not be possible.
Allow the fish to stay in the tank for a day or two. Tetras should spawn after being kept in the tank for about one to two days.
2-3. Adjust conditions if your neon tetras are not breeding.
If breeding is not happening, then check the pH and temperature of the water, soften the water a bit more, and adjust the lighting as needed. It may take some time and experimenting to get the conditions just right for your neon tetras to breed.
Changing the water softness seems to trigger spawning because it mimics rainfall. Try adding a large amount of soft water to the tank if your neon tetras are not spawning after a few days.
2-4. Remove the adult tetras from the tank.
Fish eggs are small and hard to see because of their translucent color, but you may be able to see them in the gravel or on plants in your breeding tank. As soon as you notice eggs in the tank, make sure that you remove the adult tetras from the tank or they may eat the eggs.
2-5. Wait for the baby tetras to hatch.
There may be between 60 and 130 eggs, but not all of them will hatch. After the eggs are lain, they will take about 24 hours to hatch. You can expect about 40 to 50 baby tetras to hatch from the eggs.
The baby tetras will look like small splinters of glass swimming around the tank.
3. Caring for Baby Neon Tetras
3-1. Keep the baby tetras in the dark.
The baby tetras, also known as “fry,” will need to be kept in the dark for about five days after they hatch. Baby tetras are light-sensitive and they need a dark environment in order to thrive.
To keep the tank dark, you can cover the entire tank in dark construction paper or use a piece of cardboard to block out the light.
You can use a dim flashlight to look in from the top of the tank during feedings, but be brief when you do so.
3-2. Feed your fry special food.
You cannot feed your baby tetras the same food that the adult tetras eat, so you will need to give them some special food intended for baby fish. These foods should be labeled as appropriate for fry. Ask at your local pet store if you are not sure which foods are appropriate for your baby tetras.
After a few days, you can start to feed the baby tetras baby brine shrimp as well. You can buy baby brine shrimp in pet stores.
3-3. Introduce your baby neon tetras to your adult neon tetras.
After about three months, you can place your new neon tetras into the tank with your adult neon tetras. Do not try to place them into the tank before because they may be eaten, injured, or bullied by the adult fish.
Keep in mind that some of the tetras may die no matter what you do. Baby fish are more prone to disease and more sensitive to injuries.
3-4. Limit your tetras to two inches of fish for every gallon of water.
This is a general rule for fish tanks that can help you determine how many tetras you can keep in your tank at one time. Adult neon tetras are about two inches long, so you can divide the gallon size of your tank to find the number of neon tetras you may keep in the tank.
For example, if you have a 50 gallon (190 L) tank, then you can have 25 tetras in your tank.
3-5. Find homes for extra neon tetras.
Since many neon tetras may be produced from one breeding attempt, you may find yourself with more neon tetras than you can accommodate. Ask friends if they would be interested in having some neon tetras. Make sure that your friends have the appropriate equipment and resources to care for the fish.
You can also try calling your local pet store to see if they are interested in purchasing some. Just keep in mind that pet stores only pay between $0.11 and $0.30 per neon tetra, so you will not make much money unless you sell in large quantities.
Tips
Make sure your adult fish are healthy prior to breeding.
Keep fish tank tools clean to prevent introducing disease and bacteria to the young fry.
Don't let light in the tank while the babies are 1-5 days old, it may harm them.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:58:38",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Tank Setup\\n1-1. Set up a breeding tank.\\nYou will need more than one tank in order to breed tetras, so get another one if you do not have one already. You can use a 12 x 8 x 8 inch (30 x 20 x 20cm) tank to breed your tetras. You will use this tank to bring a male and female tetra together for breeding and also as a place incubate the eggs and baby tetras.\\nYou can set this tank up similar to how you have your normal tank set up. Just keep in mind that the water will need to be soft and kept at a specific temperature and acidity in order for breeding to happen.\\n1-2. Prepare the water.\\nWhen you are breeding neon tetras, the water in your breeding tank needs to be kept at about 77 degrees Fahrenheit. The water also needs to be soft (low-mineral content) and slightly acidic (with a pH of 5-6) in order for neon tetras to thrive. This type of environment is what best mimics the natural environment of a neon tetra. If the water in your tank does not meet these requirements, you will need to:\\nget a tank thermometer to monitor the water temperature.\\ntest the pH of the water daily using pH test strips (available at pet stores)\\nmix one part tap water with three parts reverse osmosis water to make soft water for your tank OR use fresh rainwater\\n1-3. Get a corner box filter for your tank.\\nA filtration system can help to remove waste products and bacteria from the aquarium, which will protect the health of your tetras. A filtration system can also remove bacteria from the aquarium and keep it looking its best. Corner box filters are ideal for breeding tanks because they are gentle.\\n1-4. Place the tank in a dark or low-light place.\\nTetras need a dark environment to thrive, so do not place your tetras near a sunny window or in another place that gets a lot of light. Tetras do not need total darkness, but they do need to be placed somewhere that gets only a small amount of light each day.\\nYou may even want to cover the back and sides of your tank in dark paper to block out excess light.\\n2. Introducing the Tetras\\n2-1. Sex your tetras.\\nIt is not absolutely necessary to sex your tetras before you begin breeding because you can put several into the tank together and breeding should occur. However, if you want to sex your tetras, male and female tetras have some distinct differences that can help you tell them apart.\\nFemale tetras tend to be wider and fatter than male tetras.\\nSome breeders also claim that male tetras have a straight stripe and females have a crooked stripe.\\n2-2. Place adult tetras into the tank.\\nEvening is the best time to introduce your adult tetras into the tank, so plan to put your adult tetras into the tank after the sun has set. Keep in mind that the tetras that you use for breeding will have to be at least 12 weeks old or breeding may not be possible.\\nAllow the fish to stay in the tank for a day or two. Tetras should spawn after being kept in the tank for about one to two days.\\n2-3. Adjust conditions if your neon tetras are not breeding.\\nIf breeding is not happening, then check the pH and temperature of the water, soften the water a bit more, and adjust the lighting as needed. It may take some time and experimenting to get the conditions just right for your neon tetras to breed.\\nChanging the water softness seems to trigger spawning because it mimics rainfall. Try adding a large amount of soft water to the tank if your neon tetras are not spawning after a few days.\\n2-4. Remove the adult tetras from the tank.\\nFish eggs are small and hard to see because of their translucent color, but you may be able to see them in the gravel or on plants in your breeding tank. As soon as you notice eggs in the tank, make sure that you remove the adult tetras from the tank or they may eat the eggs.\\n2-5. Wait for the baby tetras to hatch.\\nThere may be between 60 and 130 eggs, but not all of them will hatch. After the eggs are lain, they will take about 24 hours to hatch. You can expect about 40 to 50 baby tetras to hatch from the eggs.\\nThe baby tetras will look like small splinters of glass swimming around the tank.\\n3. Caring for Baby Neon Tetras\\n3-1. Keep the baby tetras in the dark.\\nThe baby tetras, also known as “fry,” will need to be kept in the dark for about five days after they hatch. Baby tetras are light-sensitive and they need a dark environment in order to thrive.\\nTo keep the tank dark, you can cover the entire tank in dark construction paper or use a piece of cardboard to block out the light.\\nYou can use a dim flashlight to look in from the top of the tank during feedings, but be brief when you do so.\\n3-2. Feed your fry special food.\\nYou cannot feed your baby tetras the same food that the adult tetras eat, so you will need to give them some special food intended for baby fish. These foods should be labeled as appropriate for fry. Ask at your local pet store if you are not sure which foods are appropriate for your baby tetras.\\nAfter a few days, you can start to feed the baby tetras baby brine shrimp as well. You can buy baby brine shrimp in pet stores.\\n3-3. Introduce your baby neon tetras to your adult neon tetras.\\nAfter about three months, you can place your new neon tetras into the tank with your adult neon tetras. Do not try to place them into the tank before because they may be eaten, injured, or bullied by the adult fish.\\nKeep in mind that some of the tetras may die no matter what you do. Baby fish are more prone to disease and more sensitive to injuries.\\n3-4. Limit your tetras to two inches of fish for every gallon of water.\\nThis is a general rule for fish tanks that can help you determine how many tetras you can keep in your tank at one time. Adult neon tetras are about two inches long, so you can divide the gallon size of your tank to find the number of neon tetras you may keep in the tank.\\nFor example, if you have a 50 gallon (190 L) tank, then you can have 25 tetras in your tank.\\n3-5. Find homes for extra neon tetras.\\nSince many neon tetras may be produced from one breeding attempt, you may find yourself with more neon tetras than you can accommodate. Ask friends if they would be interested in having some neon tetras. Make sure that your friends have the appropriate equipment and resources to care for the fish.\\nYou can also try calling your local pet store to see if they are interested in purchasing some. Just keep in mind that pet stores only pay between $0.11 and $0.30 per neon tetra, so you will not make much money unless you sell in large quantities.\\nTips\\nMake sure your adult fish are healthy prior to breeding.\\nKeep fish tank tools clean to prevent introducing disease and bacteria to the young fry.\\nDon't let light in the tank while the babies are 1-5 days old, it may harm them.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Neon tetras are easy to breed, but the conditions have to be just right. Before you start breeding neon tetras, you will need to set up a specific breeding tank, prepare the water, and control the night and day cycle. You will also need to know how to introduce the adult tetras and care for the baby tetras after they hatch.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Tank Setup\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Set up a breeding tank.\", \"描述\": \"You will need more than one tank in order to breed tetras, so get another one if you do not have one already. You can use a 12 x 8 x 8 inch (30 x 20 x 20cm) tank to breed your tetras. You will use this tank to bring a male and female tetra together for breeding and also as a place incubate the eggs and baby tetras.\\nYou can set this tank up similar to how you have your normal tank set up. Just keep in mind that the water will need to be soft and kept at a specific temperature and acidity in order for breeding to happen.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Prepare the water.\", \"描述\": \"When you are breeding neon tetras, the water in your breeding tank needs to be kept at about 77 degrees Fahrenheit. The water also needs to be soft (low-mineral content) and slightly acidic (with a pH of 5-6) in order for neon tetras to thrive. This type of environment is what best mimics the natural environment of a neon tetra. If the water in your tank does not meet these requirements, you will need to:\\nget a tank thermometer to monitor the water temperature.\\ntest the pH of the water daily using pH test strips (available at pet stores)\\nmix one part tap water with three parts reverse osmosis water to make soft water for your tank OR use fresh rainwater\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Get a corner box filter for your tank.\", \"描述\": \"A filtration system can help to remove waste products and bacteria from the aquarium, which will protect the health of your tetras. A filtration system can also remove bacteria from the aquarium and keep it looking its best. Corner box filters are ideal for breeding tanks because they are gentle.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Place the tank in a dark or low-light place.\", \"描述\": \"Tetras need a dark environment to thrive, so do not place your tetras near a sunny window or in another place that gets a lot of light. Tetras do not need total darkness, but they do need to be placed somewhere that gets only a small amount of light each day.\\nYou may even want to cover the back and sides of your tank in dark paper to block out excess light.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Introducing the Tetras\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Sex your tetras.\", \"描述\": \"It is not absolutely necessary to sex your tetras before you begin breeding because you can put several into the tank together and breeding should occur. However, if you want to sex your tetras, male and female tetras have some distinct differences that can help you tell them apart.\\nFemale tetras tend to be wider and fatter than male tetras.\\nSome breeders also claim that male tetras have a straight stripe and females have a crooked stripe.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Place adult tetras into the tank.\", \"描述\": \"Evening is the best time to introduce your adult tetras into the tank, so plan to put your adult tetras into the tank after the sun has set. Keep in mind that the tetras that you use for breeding will have to be at least 12 weeks old or breeding may not be possible.\\nAllow the fish to stay in the tank for a day or two. Tetras should spawn after being kept in the tank for about one to two days.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Adjust conditions if your neon tetras are not breeding.\", \"描述\": \"If breeding is not happening, then check the pH and temperature of the water, soften the water a bit more, and adjust the lighting as needed. It may take some time and experimenting to get the conditions just right for your neon tetras to breed.\\nChanging the water softness seems to trigger spawning because it mimics rainfall. Try adding a large amount of soft water to the tank if your neon tetras are not spawning after a few days.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Remove the adult tetras from the tank.\", \"描述\": \"Fish eggs are small and hard to see because of their translucent color, but you may be able to see them in the gravel or on plants in your breeding tank. As soon as you notice eggs in the tank, make sure that you remove the adult tetras from the tank or they may eat the eggs.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Wait for the baby tetras to hatch.\", \"描述\": \"There may be between 60 and 130 eggs, but not all of them will hatch. After the eggs are lain, they will take about 24 hours to hatch. You can expect about 40 to 50 baby tetras to hatch from the eggs.\\nThe baby tetras will look like small splinters of glass swimming around the tank.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Caring for Baby Neon Tetras\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Keep the baby tetras in the dark.\", \"描述\": \"The baby tetras, also known as “fry,” will need to be kept in the dark for about five days after they hatch. Baby tetras are light-sensitive and they need a dark environment in order to thrive.\\nTo keep the tank dark, you can cover the entire tank in dark construction paper or use a piece of cardboard to block out the light.\\nYou can use a dim flashlight to look in from the top of the tank during feedings, but be brief when you do so.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Feed your fry special food.\", \"描述\": \"You cannot feed your baby tetras the same food that the adult tetras eat, so you will need to give them some special food intended for baby fish. These foods should be labeled as appropriate for fry. Ask at your local pet store if you are not sure which foods are appropriate for your baby tetras.\\nAfter a few days, you can start to feed the baby tetras baby brine shrimp as well. You can buy baby brine shrimp in pet stores.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Introduce your baby neon tetras to your adult neon tetras.\", \"描述\": \"After about three months, you can place your new neon tetras into the tank with your adult neon tetras. Do not try to place them into the tank before because they may be eaten, injured, or bullied by the adult fish.\\nKeep in mind that some of the tetras may die no matter what you do. Baby fish are more prone to disease and more sensitive to injuries.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Limit your tetras to two inches of fish for every gallon of water.\", \"描述\": \"This is a general rule for fish tanks that can help you determine how many tetras you can keep in your tank at one time. Adult neon tetras are about two inches long, so you can divide the gallon size of your tank to find the number of neon tetras you may keep in the tank.\\nFor example, if you have a 50 gallon (190 L) tank, then you can have 25 tetras in your tank.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Find homes for extra neon tetras.\", \"描述\": \"Since many neon tetras may be produced from one breeding attempt, you may find yourself with more neon tetras than you can accommodate. Ask friends if they would be interested in having some neon tetras. Make sure that your friends have the appropriate equipment and resources to care for the fish.\\nYou can also try calling your local pet store to see if they are interested in purchasing some. Just keep in mind that pet stores only pay between $0.11 and $0.30 per neon tetra, so you will not make much money unless you sell in large quantities.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Make sure your adult fish are healthy prior to breeding.\\n\", \"Keep fish tank tools clean to prevent introducing disease and bacteria to the young fry.\\n\", \"Don't let light in the tank while the babies are 1-5 days old, it may harm them.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
6,942 |
How to Breed Peacock Gudgeons
|
1. Setting up the Fry Tank
1-1. Add 3 in (7.6 cm) of dark substrate to a 5 US gal (19 L) covered tank.
You can find a variety of substrates and tanks at pet supply stores or online. Dark gravel or sand is ideal and any regular aquarium of this size works well. Pour the substrate directly into the tank and spread it out evenly across the base to create a smooth layer.
1-2. Plant 3-4 live Java ferns in the substrate.
These plants are great for peacock gudgeon fry as they provide the first food. Dig a small hole approximately 1 in (2.5 cm) deep in the substrate for each plant. Try to space the plants around the tank.
Java ferns are sold in pet supply stores or online.
Java moss is also a good option.
The fry feed on tiny organisms called infusoria which live in Java ferns and moss.
1-3. Place an airstone in the fry tank.
Airstones are small and inexpensive pieces of aquarium furniture that are designed to add dissolved oxygen to the water. Place the airstone anywhere on the substrate. The bubbles it creates keeps the water moving which helps the fry to survive.
1-4. Fill up the tank with dechlorinated tap water.
Read the manufacturer’s directions to find how much dechlorinator to treat the tap water with. Pour the water directly into the tank and add the specified number of dechlorinator drops. Practice keeping the cover on the tank, as peacock gudgeons can jump!
1-5. Install a heater to keep the water temperature between 76–80 °F (24–27 °C).
Follow the manufacturer's directions carefully and mount the heater to an inside wall of the tank using either the mounting bracket or suction cups. Adjust the temperature dial and then turn the heater on. Check the temperature after 24 hours using a thermometer to make sure that the heater works properly.
Make sure that the heater isn’t in contact with any plants in the tank.
Peacock gudgeons need warm water to survive.
1-6. Check that the pH is 6.5-7.5 and the water hardness is 5-10 dGH.
Use a master water quality testing kit and place a sample of the tank water in the test tube. Add each testing solution and match the color of the aquarium water to the color chart. pH and water hardness are the most important parameters for peacock gudgeons.
1-7. Treat the water if necessary using water quality adjustment products.
If the testing indicates that changes to the quality need to be made, purchase adjustment products from a pet supply store. There are many products available that safely alter parameters like pH, water hardness, and ammonia. Simply add the specified amount of the product to the tank water and test the water quality again after 24 hours.
2. Spawning and Transferring the Eggs
2-1. Get a breeding pair of peacock gudgeons.
Make sure that you have 1 male and 1 female. Females have a black line across the edges of their fins, whereas males don’t. Also, males have rounder heads and females have more pointed and angular heads. There is no specific season for breeding peacock gudgeons and the fish tend to start breeding within 2-3 weeks of being put together.
Peacock gudgeons tend to start breeding from 6-8 months old.
The female is ready to spawn when her abdomen is bright yellow.
The breeding pair don't need to be alone, as they are happy with tankmates.
2-2. Place a PVC pipe "cave" into the adult tank.
Cut a 7 in (18 cm) long, ⁄2 in (1.3 cm) wide piece of PVC piping and place it directly on the tank substrate. This creates a cave where the female peacock gudgeon will lay eggs.
Alternatively, you can use a wooden aquarium cave.
2-3. Observe the tank to see the peacock gudgeons breed.
Notice the male fish fluttering his fins at the entrance to the cave. The female fish will eventually swim inside the cave and lay the eggs, usually inside the roof. The female will then leave the cave immediately.
Female peacock gudgeons lay 50-200 eggs per spawning.
2-4. Watch the male brood and protect the eggs for 6-7 days.
It’s important to keep a close eye on the male and the eggs, as you will need to act fast when the eggs start to hatch. The male will stay in the cave with the eggs until they hatch, usually fanning his fins to keep the water circulating. Check the tank a few times each day to make sure that the male is still in the cave.
2-5. Transfer the PVC pipe to the fry tank as soon as the male leaves.
After 6-7 days, the eggs start hatching so the male stops protecting the eggs and will leave the cave. Reach into the tank and cover each end of the pipe with your palms. Lift the cave out of the tank and place it directly onto the substrate in the fry tank.
Peacock gudgeon fry are often eaten by the larger fish in the tank. Transferring them into their own tank keeps them safe.
As the eggs are hatching, you may notice tiny, ⁄8 in (3.2 mm) transparent fry in the cave.
3. Raising Peacock Gudgeon Fry
3-1. Feed the fry 1 tsp (3-4 g) of microworms after 2-4 days.
Either purchase microworms from a pet supply store or culture your own. Wait until all of the eggs have hatched and the fry begin swimming. Then drop the microworms directly into the water.
After 2-4 days, the fry are big enough to eat food larger than infusoria.
3-2. Give the fry 10-15 newly hatched brine shrimp twice per day from 1 week old.
As the fry get bigger, they can move onto larger live foods. Drop the brine shrimp directly into the tank and watch as the fry race to eat their new food. This amount should be enough for all of the fry that have survived.
Peacock gudgeons prefer live food, rather than pellets or flakes.
Finding the right amount of food for the fry can be difficult. Try to provide only enough food that's eaten within 5 minutes, so experiment with different amounts until you find what works for your fish. It's safer to give them too little food rather than too much.
3-3. Clean the tank
Place the fish into a small bucket or container filled with tank water. Scrub the sides of the container, vacuum the substrate, and use a measuring jug to replace 25% of the water with fresh, dechlorinated water. Make sure that the water is the correct temperature before you return the fish.
It’s important to do regular water changes to keep the fry healthy. Schedule cleaning and water changes in your calendar if that helps you remember.
3-4. Transfer the fish back into your regular aquarium after 2-4 months.
Once the peacock gudgeon fry grow into juveniles, they are ready to return to the adult tank with your other fish. Simply use a small aquarium net to catch each fish and place them directly into the new tank.
Fish tend to be less frightened of black and green nets, rather than white.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:58:38",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Setting up the Fry Tank\\n1-1. Add 3 in (7.6 cm) of dark substrate to a 5 US gal (19 L) covered tank.\\nYou can find a variety of substrates and tanks at pet supply stores or online. Dark gravel or sand is ideal and any regular aquarium of this size works well. Pour the substrate directly into the tank and spread it out evenly across the base to create a smooth layer.\\n1-2. Plant 3-4 live Java ferns in the substrate.\\nThese plants are great for peacock gudgeon fry as they provide the first food. Dig a small hole approximately 1 in (2.5 cm) deep in the substrate for each plant. Try to space the plants around the tank.\\nJava ferns are sold in pet supply stores or online.\\nJava moss is also a good option.\\nThe fry feed on tiny organisms called infusoria which live in Java ferns and moss.\\n1-3. Place an airstone in the fry tank.\\nAirstones are small and inexpensive pieces of aquarium furniture that are designed to add dissolved oxygen to the water. Place the airstone anywhere on the substrate. The bubbles it creates keeps the water moving which helps the fry to survive.\\n1-4. Fill up the tank with dechlorinated tap water.\\nRead the manufacturer’s directions to find how much dechlorinator to treat the tap water with. Pour the water directly into the tank and add the specified number of dechlorinator drops. Practice keeping the cover on the tank, as peacock gudgeons can jump!\\n1-5. Install a heater to keep the water temperature between 76–80 °F (24–27 °C).\\nFollow the manufacturer's directions carefully and mount the heater to an inside wall of the tank using either the mounting bracket or suction cups. Adjust the temperature dial and then turn the heater on. Check the temperature after 24 hours using a thermometer to make sure that the heater works properly.\\nMake sure that the heater isn’t in contact with any plants in the tank.\\nPeacock gudgeons need warm water to survive.\\n1-6. Check that the pH is 6.5-7.5 and the water hardness is 5-10 dGH.\\nUse a master water quality testing kit and place a sample of the tank water in the test tube. Add each testing solution and match the color of the aquarium water to the color chart. pH and water hardness are the most important parameters for peacock gudgeons.\\n1-7. Treat the water if necessary using water quality adjustment products.\\nIf the testing indicates that changes to the quality need to be made, purchase adjustment products from a pet supply store. There are many products available that safely alter parameters like pH, water hardness, and ammonia. Simply add the specified amount of the product to the tank water and test the water quality again after 24 hours.\\n2. Spawning and Transferring the Eggs\\n2-1. Get a breeding pair of peacock gudgeons.\\nMake sure that you have 1 male and 1 female. Females have a black line across the edges of their fins, whereas males don’t. Also, males have rounder heads and females have more pointed and angular heads. There is no specific season for breeding peacock gudgeons and the fish tend to start breeding within 2-3 weeks of being put together. \\nPeacock gudgeons tend to start breeding from 6-8 months old.\\nThe female is ready to spawn when her abdomen is bright yellow.\\nThe breeding pair don't need to be alone, as they are happy with tankmates.\\n2-2. Place a PVC pipe \\\"cave\\\" into the adult tank.\\nCut a 7 in (18 cm) long, ⁄2 in (1.3 cm) wide piece of PVC piping and place it directly on the tank substrate. This creates a cave where the female peacock gudgeon will lay eggs.\\nAlternatively, you can use a wooden aquarium cave.\\n2-3. Observe the tank to see the peacock gudgeons breed.\\nNotice the male fish fluttering his fins at the entrance to the cave. The female fish will eventually swim inside the cave and lay the eggs, usually inside the roof. The female will then leave the cave immediately.\\nFemale peacock gudgeons lay 50-200 eggs per spawning.\\n2-4. Watch the male brood and protect the eggs for 6-7 days.\\nIt’s important to keep a close eye on the male and the eggs, as you will need to act fast when the eggs start to hatch. The male will stay in the cave with the eggs until they hatch, usually fanning his fins to keep the water circulating. Check the tank a few times each day to make sure that the male is still in the cave.\\n2-5. Transfer the PVC pipe to the fry tank as soon as the male leaves.\\nAfter 6-7 days, the eggs start hatching so the male stops protecting the eggs and will leave the cave. Reach into the tank and cover each end of the pipe with your palms. Lift the cave out of the tank and place it directly onto the substrate in the fry tank.\\nPeacock gudgeon fry are often eaten by the larger fish in the tank. Transferring them into their own tank keeps them safe.\\nAs the eggs are hatching, you may notice tiny, ⁄8 in (3.2 mm) transparent fry in the cave.\\n3. Raising Peacock Gudgeon Fry\\n3-1. Feed the fry 1 tsp (3-4 g) of microworms after 2-4 days.\\nEither purchase microworms from a pet supply store or culture your own. Wait until all of the eggs have hatched and the fry begin swimming. Then drop the microworms directly into the water.\\nAfter 2-4 days, the fry are big enough to eat food larger than infusoria.\\n3-2. Give the fry 10-15 newly hatched brine shrimp twice per day from 1 week old.\\nAs the fry get bigger, they can move onto larger live foods. Drop the brine shrimp directly into the tank and watch as the fry race to eat their new food. This amount should be enough for all of the fry that have survived.\\nPeacock gudgeons prefer live food, rather than pellets or flakes.\\nFinding the right amount of food for the fry can be difficult. Try to provide only enough food that's eaten within 5 minutes, so experiment with different amounts until you find what works for your fish. It's safer to give them too little food rather than too much.\\n3-3. Clean the tank\\nPlace the fish into a small bucket or container filled with tank water. Scrub the sides of the container, vacuum the substrate, and use a measuring jug to replace 25% of the water with fresh, dechlorinated water. Make sure that the water is the correct temperature before you return the fish. \\nIt’s important to do regular water changes to keep the fry healthy. Schedule cleaning and water changes in your calendar if that helps you remember.\\n3-4. Transfer the fish back into your regular aquarium after 2-4 months.\\nOnce the peacock gudgeon fry grow into juveniles, they are ready to return to the adult tank with your other fish. Simply use a small aquarium net to catch each fish and place them directly into the new tank.\\nFish tend to be less frightened of black and green nets, rather than white.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Peacock gudgeons are small, colorful fish that originate from New Guinea. They are beautiful additions to freshwater aquariums and breeding them is relatively easy. Set up the designated fry tank first with substrate, dechlorinated water, and a heater. Adult fish in the same tank will eat the fry, so it's important to transfer the eggs once they start hatching. Feed the fry live food and change the water regularly to help them thrive!\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Setting up the Fry Tank\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Add 3 in (7.6 cm) of dark substrate to a 5 US gal (19 L) covered tank.\", \"描述\": \"You can find a variety of substrates and tanks at pet supply stores or online. Dark gravel or sand is ideal and any regular aquarium of this size works well. Pour the substrate directly into the tank and spread it out evenly across the base to create a smooth layer.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Plant 3-4 live Java ferns in the substrate.\", \"描述\": \"These plants are great for peacock gudgeon fry as they provide the first food. Dig a small hole approximately 1 in (2.5 cm) deep in the substrate for each plant. Try to space the plants around the tank.\\nJava ferns are sold in pet supply stores or online.\\nJava moss is also a good option.\\nThe fry feed on tiny organisms called infusoria which live in Java ferns and moss.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Place an airstone in the fry tank.\", \"描述\": \"Airstones are small and inexpensive pieces of aquarium furniture that are designed to add dissolved oxygen to the water. Place the airstone anywhere on the substrate. The bubbles it creates keeps the water moving which helps the fry to survive.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Fill up the tank with dechlorinated tap water.\", \"描述\": \"Read the manufacturer’s directions to find how much dechlorinator to treat the tap water with. Pour the water directly into the tank and add the specified number of dechlorinator drops. Practice keeping the cover on the tank, as peacock gudgeons can jump!\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Install a heater to keep the water temperature between 76–80 °F (24–27 °C).\", \"描述\": \"Follow the manufacturer's directions carefully and mount the heater to an inside wall of the tank using either the mounting bracket or suction cups. Adjust the temperature dial and then turn the heater on. Check the temperature after 24 hours using a thermometer to make sure that the heater works properly.\\nMake sure that the heater isn’t in contact with any plants in the tank.\\nPeacock gudgeons need warm water to survive.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Check that the pH is 6.5-7.5 and the water hardness is 5-10 dGH.\", \"描述\": \"Use a master water quality testing kit and place a sample of the tank water in the test tube. Add each testing solution and match the color of the aquarium water to the color chart. pH and water hardness are the most important parameters for peacock gudgeons.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Treat the water if necessary using water quality adjustment products.\", \"描述\": \"If the testing indicates that changes to the quality need to be made, purchase adjustment products from a pet supply store. There are many products available that safely alter parameters like pH, water hardness, and ammonia. Simply add the specified amount of the product to the tank water and test the water quality again after 24 hours.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Spawning and Transferring the Eggs\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Get a breeding pair of peacock gudgeons.\", \"描述\": \"Make sure that you have 1 male and 1 female. Females have a black line across the edges of their fins, whereas males don’t. Also, males have rounder heads and females have more pointed and angular heads. There is no specific season for breeding peacock gudgeons and the fish tend to start breeding within 2-3 weeks of being put together. \\nPeacock gudgeons tend to start breeding from 6-8 months old.\\nThe female is ready to spawn when her abdomen is bright yellow.\\nThe breeding pair don't need to be alone, as they are happy with tankmates.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Place a PVC pipe \\\"cave\\\" into the adult tank.\", \"描述\": \"Cut a 7 in (18 cm) long, ⁄2 in (1.3 cm) wide piece of PVC piping and place it directly on the tank substrate. This creates a cave where the female peacock gudgeon will lay eggs.\\nAlternatively, you can use a wooden aquarium cave.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Observe the tank to see the peacock gudgeons breed.\", \"描述\": \"Notice the male fish fluttering his fins at the entrance to the cave. The female fish will eventually swim inside the cave and lay the eggs, usually inside the roof. The female will then leave the cave immediately.\\nFemale peacock gudgeons lay 50-200 eggs per spawning.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Watch the male brood and protect the eggs for 6-7 days.\", \"描述\": \"It’s important to keep a close eye on the male and the eggs, as you will need to act fast when the eggs start to hatch. The male will stay in the cave with the eggs until they hatch, usually fanning his fins to keep the water circulating. Check the tank a few times each day to make sure that the male is still in the cave.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Transfer the PVC pipe to the fry tank as soon as the male leaves.\", \"描述\": \"After 6-7 days, the eggs start hatching so the male stops protecting the eggs and will leave the cave. Reach into the tank and cover each end of the pipe with your palms. Lift the cave out of the tank and place it directly onto the substrate in the fry tank.\\nPeacock gudgeon fry are often eaten by the larger fish in the tank. Transferring them into their own tank keeps them safe.\\nAs the eggs are hatching, you may notice tiny, ⁄8 in (3.2 mm) transparent fry in the cave.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Raising Peacock Gudgeon Fry\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Feed the fry 1 tsp (3-4 g) of microworms after 2-4 days.\", \"描述\": \"Either purchase microworms from a pet supply store or culture your own. Wait until all of the eggs have hatched and the fry begin swimming. Then drop the microworms directly into the water.\\nAfter 2-4 days, the fry are big enough to eat food larger than infusoria.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Give the fry 10-15 newly hatched brine shrimp twice per day from 1 week old.\", \"描述\": \"As the fry get bigger, they can move onto larger live foods. Drop the brine shrimp directly into the tank and watch as the fry race to eat their new food. This amount should be enough for all of the fry that have survived.\\nPeacock gudgeons prefer live food, rather than pellets or flakes.\\nFinding the right amount of food for the fry can be difficult. Try to provide only enough food that's eaten within 5 minutes, so experiment with different amounts until you find what works for your fish. It's safer to give them too little food rather than too much.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Clean the tank\", \"描述\": \"Place the fish into a small bucket or container filled with tank water. Scrub the sides of the container, vacuum the substrate, and use a measuring jug to replace 25% of the water with fresh, dechlorinated water. Make sure that the water is the correct temperature before you return the fish. \\nIt’s important to do regular water changes to keep the fry healthy. Schedule cleaning and water changes in your calendar if that helps you remember.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Transfer the fish back into your regular aquarium after 2-4 months.\", \"描述\": \"Once the peacock gudgeon fry grow into juveniles, they are ready to return to the adult tank with your other fish. Simply use a small aquarium net to catch each fish and place them directly into the new tank.\\nFish tend to be less frightened of black and green nets, rather than white.\"}]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
6,943 |
How to Breed Pets on The Sims 3 Pets (PC)
|
1. Breeding dogs
1-1. Breed your dogs.
With Sims, not every attempt results in pregnancy. But when your dog becomes pregnant, you get an on-screen message informing you. Another way to tell is if when pregnant, the interaction 'Try for baby' will not appear until after the dog has had her litters.
1-2. When it's time, your female dog puts out a random number of puppies with a graphic flourish.
The pups will have some traits and markings from their parents or grandparents. They might also exhibit other random traits and markings. Puppies might even inherit the ability to do some tricks, if their parents or grandparents know some.
1-3. You will get a message listing the number of litters and a reminder to name them.
To do so, click on the puppies and click the name pet interaction.
1-4. A new litter will result in the the whole household getting the 'New puppies' powerful positive moodlet.
1-5. Sims looks at puppies and (either autonomously or user directed) say Awwwwwww.
This results in the positive puppies moodlet.
2. Breeding cats
2-1. Breed your cats.
Fortunately, cats never accidentally have kittens. Just as with dogs, you must deliberately breed your cats. Also, as with dogs, you need a doghouse on your lot before you can breed. That's right, a doghouse - well, technically, they're pet houses. But cats don't get their own private parlors of armor.
2-2. As with dogs, cats retire to the privacy of the 'pet' house to conduct their courtship.
When they emerge, the female cat has a chance of being pregnant. If so, you will get a message telling you to prepare for kittens.
When the cats are mates, ensure that their relationship bar is full. When it's full, and you have a pet house nearby, press the "Try for kittens". Get ready for kittens.
2-3. As with other pets, cats don't make a huge fuss.
They just pop out a few kittens in a sparkly flourish. You then get to name the kittens.
2-4. Kittens and puppies start eating solid food as soon as they are born.
Prepare to fill the bowls more often now.
3. Breeding horses
3-1. Breed your horses.
You have several options when it comes to breeding horses. First, you could create a male and female horse and optionally set them to mate in edit relationships, which starts their relationship at a higher level than when you started. Then you need a box stall on your lot. Without a box stall, horses simply can't breed. If you have a pair of opposite gendered horses with a high enough relationship and a box stall, you can direct your horse to 'Try for baby'.
3-2. They enter the box stall and the action is blocked out.
You can see the typical shower of hearts around the horses. Just as with Sims not every try for baby results in a baby. Keep trying in till you get the message telling you the mare is pregnant.
3-3. After a few day the mare drops the foal and you can name it.
The foal will typically show characteristics of one or both parents. If the parent horse was trained, there is a chance the foal will inherit some of the relevant ability.
3-4. You can also get a foal by breeding the mare at the equestrian center and have her bred there.
This results in a foal for the household. Offering a male as a stud will results in money, not a foal.
3-5. Raise your new foal.
The new foal becomes playable member of the household. Foals have the same needs as horse expect, but they lack a thirst need. For foal, hunger and thirst are both fulfilled from either nursing from the mother or being bottle fed by Sims.
3-6. Foals don't like being separated from their mothers, nor do mothers like to be separated from their foals.
They each gain negative moodlets from separation, lose their socialization quickly and generally are not happy until they reunite.
3-7. What happens if a foal is permanently separated from its mother by sale, adoption or death?
The foal will miss its mother until it gains a friend or higher relationship with a household mare or ages up.
Tips
You can cross-breed. You don't need to have the same breed of cat/dog/horse. You can also mix colours to see what the litters turn out to be.
Unlike horses, puppies and kittens cannot be sold. This means that you can't breed them for money.
The shower of hearts appear whatever pets are trying for babies.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:58:38",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Breeding dogs\\n1-1. Breed your dogs.\\nWith Sims, not every attempt results in pregnancy. But when your dog becomes pregnant, you get an on-screen message informing you. Another way to tell is if when pregnant, the interaction 'Try for baby' will not appear until after the dog has had her litters.\\n1-2. When it's time, your female dog puts out a random number of puppies with a graphic flourish.\\nThe pups will have some traits and markings from their parents or grandparents. They might also exhibit other random traits and markings. Puppies might even inherit the ability to do some tricks, if their parents or grandparents know some.\\n1-3. You will get a message listing the number of litters and a reminder to name them.\\nTo do so, click on the puppies and click the name pet interaction.\\n1-4. A new litter will result in the the whole household getting the 'New puppies' powerful positive moodlet.\\n\\n1-5. Sims looks at puppies and (either autonomously or user directed) say Awwwwwww.\\nThis results in the positive puppies moodlet.\\n2. Breeding cats\\n2-1. Breed your cats.\\nFortunately, cats never accidentally have kittens. Just as with dogs, you must deliberately breed your cats. Also, as with dogs, you need a doghouse on your lot before you can breed. That's right, a doghouse - well, technically, they're pet houses. But cats don't get their own private parlors of armor.\\n2-2. As with dogs, cats retire to the privacy of the 'pet' house to conduct their courtship.\\nWhen they emerge, the female cat has a chance of being pregnant. If so, you will get a message telling you to prepare for kittens.\\nWhen the cats are mates, ensure that their relationship bar is full. When it's full, and you have a pet house nearby, press the \\\"Try for kittens\\\". Get ready for kittens.\\n2-3. As with other pets, cats don't make a huge fuss.\\nThey just pop out a few kittens in a sparkly flourish. You then get to name the kittens.\\n2-4. Kittens and puppies start eating solid food as soon as they are born.\\nPrepare to fill the bowls more often now.\\n3. Breeding horses\\n3-1. Breed your horses.\\nYou have several options when it comes to breeding horses. First, you could create a male and female horse and optionally set them to mate in edit relationships, which starts their relationship at a higher level than when you started. Then you need a box stall on your lot. Without a box stall, horses simply can't breed. If you have a pair of opposite gendered horses with a high enough relationship and a box stall, you can direct your horse to 'Try for baby'.\\n3-2. They enter the box stall and the action is blocked out.\\nYou can see the typical shower of hearts around the horses. Just as with Sims not every try for baby results in a baby. Keep trying in till you get the message telling you the mare is pregnant.\\n3-3. After a few day the mare drops the foal and you can name it.\\nThe foal will typically show characteristics of one or both parents. If the parent horse was trained, there is a chance the foal will inherit some of the relevant ability.\\n3-4. You can also get a foal by breeding the mare at the equestrian center and have her bred there.\\nThis results in a foal for the household. Offering a male as a stud will results in money, not a foal.\\n3-5. Raise your new foal.\\nThe new foal becomes playable member of the household. Foals have the same needs as horse expect, but they lack a thirst need. For foal, hunger and thirst are both fulfilled from either nursing from the mother or being bottle fed by Sims.\\n3-6. Foals don't like being separated from their mothers, nor do mothers like to be separated from their foals.\\nThey each gain negative moodlets from separation, lose their socialization quickly and generally are not happy until they reunite.\\n3-7. What happens if a foal is permanently separated from its mother by sale, adoption or death?\\nThe foal will miss its mother until it gains a friend or higher relationship with a household mare or ages up.\\nTips\\nYou can cross-breed. You don't need to have the same breed of cat/dog/horse. You can also mix colours to see what the litters turn out to be.\\nUnlike horses, puppies and kittens cannot be sold. This means that you can't breed them for money.\\nThe shower of hearts appear whatever pets are trying for babies.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Breeding pets in Sims 3 Pets PC is actually more difficult that you think. You may think \\\"There are two pets, male and female, and sort them accordingly.\\\" But its not that simple. Also, sometimes the 'Try for Babies' option is not even there. This article can help you make it easier.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Breeding dogs\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Breed your dogs.\", \"描述\": \"With Sims, not every attempt results in pregnancy. But when your dog becomes pregnant, you get an on-screen message informing you. Another way to tell is if when pregnant, the interaction 'Try for baby' will not appear until after the dog has had her litters.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"When it's time, your female dog puts out a random number of puppies with a graphic flourish.\", \"描述\": \"The pups will have some traits and markings from their parents or grandparents. They might also exhibit other random traits and markings. Puppies might even inherit the ability to do some tricks, if their parents or grandparents know some.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"You will get a message listing the number of litters and a reminder to name them.\", \"描述\": \"To do so, click on the puppies and click the name pet interaction.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"A new litter will result in the the whole household getting the 'New puppies' powerful positive moodlet.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Sims looks at puppies and (either autonomously or user directed) say Awwwwwww.\", \"描述\": \"This results in the positive puppies moodlet.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Breeding cats\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Breed your cats.\", \"描述\": \"Fortunately, cats never accidentally have kittens. Just as with dogs, you must deliberately breed your cats. Also, as with dogs, you need a doghouse on your lot before you can breed. That's right, a doghouse - well, technically, they're pet houses. But cats don't get their own private parlors of armor.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"As with dogs, cats retire to the privacy of the 'pet' house to conduct their courtship.\", \"描述\": \"When they emerge, the female cat has a chance of being pregnant. If so, you will get a message telling you to prepare for kittens.\\nWhen the cats are mates, ensure that their relationship bar is full. When it's full, and you have a pet house nearby, press the \\\"Try for kittens\\\". Get ready for kittens.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"As with other pets, cats don't make a huge fuss.\", \"描述\": \"They just pop out a few kittens in a sparkly flourish. You then get to name the kittens.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Kittens and puppies start eating solid food as soon as they are born.\", \"描述\": \"Prepare to fill the bowls more often now.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Breeding horses\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Breed your horses.\", \"描述\": \"You have several options when it comes to breeding horses. First, you could create a male and female horse and optionally set them to mate in edit relationships, which starts their relationship at a higher level than when you started. Then you need a box stall on your lot. Without a box stall, horses simply can't breed. If you have a pair of opposite gendered horses with a high enough relationship and a box stall, you can direct your horse to 'Try for baby'.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"They enter the box stall and the action is blocked out.\", \"描述\": \"You can see the typical shower of hearts around the horses. Just as with Sims not every try for baby results in a baby. Keep trying in till you get the message telling you the mare is pregnant.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"After a few day the mare drops the foal and you can name it.\", \"描述\": \"The foal will typically show characteristics of one or both parents. If the parent horse was trained, there is a chance the foal will inherit some of the relevant ability.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"You can also get a foal by breeding the mare at the equestrian center and have her bred there.\", \"描述\": \"This results in a foal for the household. Offering a male as a stud will results in money, not a foal.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Raise your new foal.\", \"描述\": \"The new foal becomes playable member of the household. Foals have the same needs as horse expect, but they lack a thirst need. For foal, hunger and thirst are both fulfilled from either nursing from the mother or being bottle fed by Sims.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Foals don't like being separated from their mothers, nor do mothers like to be separated from their foals.\", \"描述\": \"They each gain negative moodlets from separation, lose their socialization quickly and generally are not happy until they reunite.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"What happens if a foal is permanently separated from its mother by sale, adoption or death?\", \"描述\": \"The foal will miss its mother until it gains a friend or higher relationship with a household mare or ages up.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"You can cross-breed. You don't need to have the same breed of cat/dog/horse. You can also mix colours to see what the litters turn out to be.\\n\", \"Unlike horses, puppies and kittens cannot be sold. This means that you can't breed them for money.\\n\", \"The shower of hearts appear whatever pets are trying for babies.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
6,944 |
How to Breed Pit Bulls
|
1. Deciding to Breed Pit Bulls
1-1. Determine why you want to breed pit bulls.
Think carefully about the reasons why you want to breed your pit bull. Perhaps you want puppies, or maybe your pit bull is a purebred. Breeding a dog can be expensive. You will have to take good care of your pregnant female, pay for multiple vet visits, and supervise the puppies during their first weeks of life. Make sure that you are dedicated to the idea before you begin.
Pit bulls are one of the most commonly surrendered dogs. In some areas, they can compose up to 40% of the homeless dog population, and many of these dogs are euthanized in shelters. Adopting a pit bull can not only be a cost effective option for many people but it can also save a life.
1-2. Research your local laws.
Some areas have breed-specific laws that outlaw the ownership or breeding of pit bulls. Even if pit bulls are allowed in your town, you may be required to muzzle them while out. Look up your local laws, and make sure that you comply with them.
1-3. Ascertain what breed you want.
There are several different breeds of dogs collectively known as pit bulls. If you want a particular breed of pit bull, you should make sure that both parents are of that breed. If you do not do this, you may have a mixed litter. The most common breeds of pit bulls include:
American Pit Bull Terriers
American Staffordshire Terriers
Staffordshire Bull Terriers
You may want to check that the parents are registered with the American Kennel Club. This will ensure that the parents are purebred and that they really belong to their breed. It will also increase the value of the puppies if you are planning on selling them.
1-4. Test your dogs for genetic problems.
Even if your dog has no outward problems, recessive genetic disorders can arise during breeding. You should have both the female and male dogs genetically tested to look for any potential diseases that could arise. While pit bulls are not known to have many problems, they can face the following issues:
Hip Dysplasia
Elbow Dysplasia
Autoimmune Thyroiditis
NCL-A (Cerebellar Ataxia)
Eye problems
Heart problems
1-5. Locate potential adopters.
Before you begin the mating process, you should find homes for the puppies first. Realize that you might have a litter of seven to ten puppies, and each will need a home. If you start looking for homes early, you can find a replacement home should a potential adopter back out.
You can advertise online, through a local kennel club, or through your vet.
2. Mating Your Dogs
2-1. Hire a stud.
If you do not have a male pit bull, you can hire a stud from another breeder. You will have to pay stud fees and negotiate a contract with the owner beforehand. The stud can physically mate with your female dog, or he can be used for artificial insemination.
Local kennel clubs can put you in touch with reputable breeders. Always make sure that you are hiring from a reputable, responsible breeder.
Ask to see the dog, and verify its temperament first. Make sure it has no aggression or behavioral problems.
If you are looking to breed purebred puppies, be sure to ask for proof of the stud's pedigree up front.
Always make sure to have a written contract between you and the breeder beforehand.
The owner of the stud may request that your dog is tested for disease first.
2-2. Take the pit bulls to the vet.
Before you try to mate the dogs, you should have the dogs examined by a vet. Talk to your vet about your plans to breed the pit bulls. The vet will be able to examine the dog for common problems and let you know if the dogs are ready to mate.
If you are hiring a stud, you should ask the stud's owner to take the stud to a vet. Ask for documentation showing the stud's health, including any potential health or behavioral problems that could pass onto the puppies.
The vet can also provide personalized advice on your dog's diet, health, and exercise over the course of the pregnancy.
2-3. Watch for the female to go in heat.
Female pit bulls tend to go into heat twice a year, and each one will last about three weeks. During this, you will notice that her vulva is swelling and discharging liquid. Your pit bull cannot mate until about two weeks into this cycle. At this point, you may notice that:
Her discharge is turning from a bloody red to clear or brownish.
She is beginning to show interest in mating.
She is releasing a smell that will attract male dogs
Her tail moves to the side to make room for a male dog.
2-4. Introduce the female to the stud.
Leave the female and male pit bulls together. You may notice the male mounting the female. The male will begin to thrust, and then remain attached to the female for between ten and thirty minutes. Do not attempt to separate the dogs at this point. This is a natural part of the mating process.
If you have hired a stud, you may find it to be easier to take the female to the male. This is because the male may be less likely to mate in an unfamiliar environment than a female in heat.
2-5. Test the female dog's progesterone levels.
If you are having difficulty mating pit bulls, you may want to check the progesterone levels of the female. Progesterone is a hormone that is released when the pit bull is ready to mate. This test can help you find the proper timing for breeding or it can diagnose a problem that might interfere with breeding. Ask your vet if you can have your dog tested.
2-6. Consider artificial insemination.
Dogs can be artificially inseminated too. You can use a stud that you have personally chosen, or you can use semen from a sperm bank that has been frozen. Ask your vet if they offer reproductive services for dogs or if they can refer you to someone who can provide you this service.
If you are using frozen semen, you may want to check that it has been DNA certified by a kennel club.
Artificial insemination can cost hundreds of dollars. Freezing and storing semen may incur additional costs.
2-7. Confirm the pregnancy.
You may notice a growing appetite, larger nipples, or an increase in weight in your pit bull. These are not surefire signs of pregnancy, however. The only way to be absolutely certain that a dog is pregnant is to have her checked out by a vet. Typically, a blood test or ultrasound will be performed. This test can typically be done between 28 and 32 days after the dog has mated.
A false pregnancy is one in which the pit bull displays the typical pregnancy behaviors but is not pregnant. If you suspect your pit bull is pregnant, take her to a vet and have her tested. A false pregnancy may be the sign of another problem.
3. Caring For a Pregnant Pit Bull
3-1. Give the mother a well-rounded diet.
You do not necessarily have to feed your dog significantly more during pregnancy. Instead, make sure that she is receiving a well-rounded diet with adequate amounts of calcium and phosphorus.
In the last few weeks of pregnancy, gradually increase your pit bull's food by 15 to 20%.
You can feed your dog a store-bought dog food. Read the nutritional information, and make sure that it is at least 29% protein and 17% fat.
Check that her food contains calcium and phosphorus to promote lactation. It should have between 1-1.8% calcium and .8-1.6% phosphorus.
3-2. Find a whelping box.
A whelping box is a special bed that your dog will give birth in. You can buy a whelping box from a pet store or online. You can also build your own. Place the box in a warm, dry area, where the dog can rest quietly after giving birth.
You should line this box with newspaper when your dog is preparing to give birth. These can be changed easily when soiled. After birth, you can replace it with bath mats or blankets.
Once the whelping box is ready, you should lead your dog to the box. Do this early in the pregnancy so that your dog grows comfortable and used to it. This will allow the dog to naturally select the whelping box when giving birth.
3-3. Determine the litter size.
There are a few different ways to estimate the dog's litter size during pregnancy. While none of these are completely accurate, they can help you prepare for the number of puppies you may have at the end of your dog's pregnancy. Ask your vet about:
beginning at around day 28 of the pregnancy, your vet may start to feel your pit bull's stomach to see how many sacs are in her uterus. This is easier earlier in the pregnancy than later.
your vet will use X-rays to count how many fetal skeletons are in your dog's uterus. This is the most effective way of determining litter size. It can be done around day 45 of the pregnancy.
your vet will use sound waves to determine if your pit bull is pregnant, although it may not be able to accurately determine the litter size. It can be done around day 30.
4. Delivering the Puppies
4-1. Watch for the mother to go into labor.
A few days before your pit bull is ready to give birth, she will start to build a nest in her whelping box. Start taking the dog's temperature. You may notice a drop to below 100 °F (38 °C). Within twenty-four hours of this change, the dog's cervix may dilate. This means she is ready to give birth.
In most cases, your pit bull will need no assistance in giving birth. That said, you should supervise the birth closely in case a problem arises.
4-2. Count puppies and placentas.
When the puppies are born, they will be inside membrane sacs. Your pit bull should begin licking them. This will help the puppies breathe while removing their sacs. You should try to make sure that there is one sac and placenta for every puppy. If there isn't, there may be a placenta stuck in your dog. Call your vet if this happens.
If your pit bull does not remove the sack, you should open it yourself. With your fingers, gently break the membrane near the puppy's head, and peel it backwards. Remove any fluids from around the puppy's mouth and nose. You can rub the puppy with a towel to help it breathe.
4-3. Consult a vet if a problem arises.
You should be alert for any problems that might arise during your dog's delivery. Have the vet's number handy just in case something goes wrong. You may even want to have an emergency number in case the puppies are born during off hours. Call your vet if:
Thirty minutes of contractions happen without a puppy appearing
The dog does not go into labor within twenty-four hours of her temperature dropping
The dog has been pregnant more than seventy days
The dog appears to be in extreme pain
Hours pass without the dog giving birth to all of her puppies
5. Raising the Puppies
5-1. Feed the mother plenty of food.
During the first day or two, the mother may not want to eat much. That said, her appetite will return. By three weeks, the mother may be eating up to four times her normal diet. It is important that the mother eats frequently. Break up her food into four meals throughout the day.
5-2. Get the puppies their shots.
Between six and eight weeks, the puppies will need their first round of shots. You may decide to get them their shots before sending them to their new homes. Be sure to remind the new owners that the puppies will require more shots at ten weeks. Shots needed at six weeks vaccinate against:
Distemper
Measles
Parainfluenza
Bordetella
5-3. Wean the puppies.
The puppies will be ready to wean from their mother's milk at around three or four weeks of age. Mix a puppy milk replacer with an equal amount of water. With your finger, wet their mouth with this mix. After a few days, you can crumble puppy food into this mixture. Your puppies should be eating solid food only by six weeks old.
5-4. Socialize the puppies.
It is important to socialize pit bull puppies while they are young. This can prevent aggression later in life. Whether it is deserved or not, pit bulls do have a reputation of being an aggressive breed, but that does not mean that your puppies will turn out that way. You can prevent aggressive behavior through training and handling.
Hold, play, and interact with the puppies often.
Separate puppies if they are fighting, mounting, or biting.
Introduce the puppies to strangers often.
5-5. Deliver the puppies to their new homes.
Once the puppies are weaned, they will be ready to go to their new homes. This will typically be around eight weeks of age. Contact the new owners, and make sure that each puppy has a home to go to.
Do not abandon un-adopted puppies at a shelter. Shelters are already overwhelmed with pit bulls, and your puppy may be euthanized.
Tips
Always talk to your vet about your plans to breed your pit bull. Have them on call in case a problem develops.
It is very important that puppies can nurse in their first twelve hours of life. Make sure that all puppies have an even chance of getting milk from their mother.
If you are planning on breeding purebreds, you may want to have them registered shortly after birth.
Warnings
Always try to find homes for puppies. Do not abandon them in shelters, which may already have too many puppies to care for.
Don't try breeding the female in her first heat cycle after birth. Give her some time to recover.
Taking the puppies away from the mother too soon can cause behavioral or health problems.
It is very important to socialize pit bull puppies properly. This can prevent future aggression problems.
Always listen to your vet's advice about whether or not your pit bull is ready to breed.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:58:38",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Deciding to Breed Pit Bulls\\n1-1. Determine why you want to breed pit bulls.\\nThink carefully about the reasons why you want to breed your pit bull. Perhaps you want puppies, or maybe your pit bull is a purebred. Breeding a dog can be expensive. You will have to take good care of your pregnant female, pay for multiple vet visits, and supervise the puppies during their first weeks of life. Make sure that you are dedicated to the idea before you begin.\\nPit bulls are one of the most commonly surrendered dogs. In some areas, they can compose up to 40% of the homeless dog population, and many of these dogs are euthanized in shelters. Adopting a pit bull can not only be a cost effective option for many people but it can also save a life.\\n1-2. Research your local laws.\\nSome areas have breed-specific laws that outlaw the ownership or breeding of pit bulls. Even if pit bulls are allowed in your town, you may be required to muzzle them while out. Look up your local laws, and make sure that you comply with them.\\n1-3. Ascertain what breed you want.\\nThere are several different breeds of dogs collectively known as pit bulls. If you want a particular breed of pit bull, you should make sure that both parents are of that breed. If you do not do this, you may have a mixed litter. The most common breeds of pit bulls include:\\nAmerican Pit Bull Terriers\\nAmerican Staffordshire Terriers\\nStaffordshire Bull Terriers\\nYou may want to check that the parents are registered with the American Kennel Club. This will ensure that the parents are purebred and that they really belong to their breed. It will also increase the value of the puppies if you are planning on selling them.\\n1-4. Test your dogs for genetic problems.\\nEven if your dog has no outward problems, recessive genetic disorders can arise during breeding. You should have both the female and male dogs genetically tested to look for any potential diseases that could arise. While pit bulls are not known to have many problems, they can face the following issues:\\nHip Dysplasia\\nElbow Dysplasia\\nAutoimmune Thyroiditis\\nNCL-A (Cerebellar Ataxia)\\nEye problems\\nHeart problems\\n1-5. Locate potential adopters.\\nBefore you begin the mating process, you should find homes for the puppies first. Realize that you might have a litter of seven to ten puppies, and each will need a home. If you start looking for homes early, you can find a replacement home should a potential adopter back out.\\nYou can advertise online, through a local kennel club, or through your vet.\\n2. Mating Your Dogs\\n2-1. Hire a stud.\\nIf you do not have a male pit bull, you can hire a stud from another breeder. You will have to pay stud fees and negotiate a contract with the owner beforehand. The stud can physically mate with your female dog, or he can be used for artificial insemination.\\nLocal kennel clubs can put you in touch with reputable breeders. Always make sure that you are hiring from a reputable, responsible breeder.\\nAsk to see the dog, and verify its temperament first. Make sure it has no aggression or behavioral problems.\\nIf you are looking to breed purebred puppies, be sure to ask for proof of the stud's pedigree up front.\\nAlways make sure to have a written contract between you and the breeder beforehand.\\nThe owner of the stud may request that your dog is tested for disease first.\\n2-2. Take the pit bulls to the vet.\\nBefore you try to mate the dogs, you should have the dogs examined by a vet. Talk to your vet about your plans to breed the pit bulls. The vet will be able to examine the dog for common problems and let you know if the dogs are ready to mate.\\nIf you are hiring a stud, you should ask the stud's owner to take the stud to a vet. Ask for documentation showing the stud's health, including any potential health or behavioral problems that could pass onto the puppies.\\nThe vet can also provide personalized advice on your dog's diet, health, and exercise over the course of the pregnancy.\\n2-3. Watch for the female to go in heat.\\nFemale pit bulls tend to go into heat twice a year, and each one will last about three weeks. During this, you will notice that her vulva is swelling and discharging liquid. Your pit bull cannot mate until about two weeks into this cycle. At this point, you may notice that:\\nHer discharge is turning from a bloody red to clear or brownish.\\nShe is beginning to show interest in mating.\\nShe is releasing a smell that will attract male dogs\\nHer tail moves to the side to make room for a male dog.\\n2-4. Introduce the female to the stud.\\nLeave the female and male pit bulls together. You may notice the male mounting the female. The male will begin to thrust, and then remain attached to the female for between ten and thirty minutes. Do not attempt to separate the dogs at this point. This is a natural part of the mating process.\\nIf you have hired a stud, you may find it to be easier to take the female to the male. This is because the male may be less likely to mate in an unfamiliar environment than a female in heat.\\n2-5. Test the female dog's progesterone levels.\\nIf you are having difficulty mating pit bulls, you may want to check the progesterone levels of the female. Progesterone is a hormone that is released when the pit bull is ready to mate. This test can help you find the proper timing for breeding or it can diagnose a problem that might interfere with breeding. Ask your vet if you can have your dog tested.\\n2-6. Consider artificial insemination.\\nDogs can be artificially inseminated too. You can use a stud that you have personally chosen, or you can use semen from a sperm bank that has been frozen. Ask your vet if they offer reproductive services for dogs or if they can refer you to someone who can provide you this service.\\nIf you are using frozen semen, you may want to check that it has been DNA certified by a kennel club.\\nArtificial insemination can cost hundreds of dollars. Freezing and storing semen may incur additional costs.\\n2-7. Confirm the pregnancy.\\nYou may notice a growing appetite, larger nipples, or an increase in weight in your pit bull. These are not surefire signs of pregnancy, however. The only way to be absolutely certain that a dog is pregnant is to have her checked out by a vet. Typically, a blood test or ultrasound will be performed. This test can typically be done between 28 and 32 days after the dog has mated.\\nA false pregnancy is one in which the pit bull displays the typical pregnancy behaviors but is not pregnant. If you suspect your pit bull is pregnant, take her to a vet and have her tested. A false pregnancy may be the sign of another problem.\\n3. Caring For a Pregnant Pit Bull\\n3-1. Give the mother a well-rounded diet.\\nYou do not necessarily have to feed your dog significantly more during pregnancy. Instead, make sure that she is receiving a well-rounded diet with adequate amounts of calcium and phosphorus.\\nIn the last few weeks of pregnancy, gradually increase your pit bull's food by 15 to 20%.\\nYou can feed your dog a store-bought dog food. Read the nutritional information, and make sure that it is at least 29% protein and 17% fat.\\nCheck that her food contains calcium and phosphorus to promote lactation. It should have between 1-1.8% calcium and .8-1.6% phosphorus.\\n3-2. Find a whelping box.\\nA whelping box is a special bed that your dog will give birth in. You can buy a whelping box from a pet store or online. You can also build your own. Place the box in a warm, dry area, where the dog can rest quietly after giving birth.\\nYou should line this box with newspaper when your dog is preparing to give birth. These can be changed easily when soiled. After birth, you can replace it with bath mats or blankets.\\nOnce the whelping box is ready, you should lead your dog to the box. Do this early in the pregnancy so that your dog grows comfortable and used to it. This will allow the dog to naturally select the whelping box when giving birth.\\n3-3. Determine the litter size.\\nThere are a few different ways to estimate the dog's litter size during pregnancy. While none of these are completely accurate, they can help you prepare for the number of puppies you may have at the end of your dog's pregnancy. Ask your vet about:\\n\\n beginning at around day 28 of the pregnancy, your vet may start to feel your pit bull's stomach to see how many sacs are in her uterus. This is easier earlier in the pregnancy than later.\\n your vet will use X-rays to count how many fetal skeletons are in your dog's uterus. This is the most effective way of determining litter size. It can be done around day 45 of the pregnancy.\\n your vet will use sound waves to determine if your pit bull is pregnant, although it may not be able to accurately determine the litter size. It can be done around day 30.\\n4. Delivering the Puppies\\n4-1. Watch for the mother to go into labor.\\nA few days before your pit bull is ready to give birth, she will start to build a nest in her whelping box. Start taking the dog's temperature. You may notice a drop to below 100 °F (38 °C). Within twenty-four hours of this change, the dog's cervix may dilate. This means she is ready to give birth.\\nIn most cases, your pit bull will need no assistance in giving birth. That said, you should supervise the birth closely in case a problem arises.\\n4-2. Count puppies and placentas.\\nWhen the puppies are born, they will be inside membrane sacs. Your pit bull should begin licking them. This will help the puppies breathe while removing their sacs. You should try to make sure that there is one sac and placenta for every puppy. If there isn't, there may be a placenta stuck in your dog. Call your vet if this happens.\\nIf your pit bull does not remove the sack, you should open it yourself. With your fingers, gently break the membrane near the puppy's head, and peel it backwards. Remove any fluids from around the puppy's mouth and nose. You can rub the puppy with a towel to help it breathe.\\n4-3. Consult a vet if a problem arises.\\nYou should be alert for any problems that might arise during your dog's delivery. Have the vet's number handy just in case something goes wrong. You may even want to have an emergency number in case the puppies are born during off hours. Call your vet if:\\nThirty minutes of contractions happen without a puppy appearing\\nThe dog does not go into labor within twenty-four hours of her temperature dropping\\nThe dog has been pregnant more than seventy days\\nThe dog appears to be in extreme pain\\nHours pass without the dog giving birth to all of her puppies\\n5. Raising the Puppies\\n5-1. Feed the mother plenty of food.\\nDuring the first day or two, the mother may not want to eat much. That said, her appetite will return. By three weeks, the mother may be eating up to four times her normal diet. It is important that the mother eats frequently. Break up her food into four meals throughout the day.\\n5-2. Get the puppies their shots.\\nBetween six and eight weeks, the puppies will need their first round of shots. You may decide to get them their shots before sending them to their new homes. Be sure to remind the new owners that the puppies will require more shots at ten weeks. Shots needed at six weeks vaccinate against:\\nDistemper\\nMeasles\\nParainfluenza\\nBordetella\\n5-3. Wean the puppies.\\nThe puppies will be ready to wean from their mother's milk at around three or four weeks of age. Mix a puppy milk replacer with an equal amount of water. With your finger, wet their mouth with this mix. After a few days, you can crumble puppy food into this mixture. Your puppies should be eating solid food only by six weeks old.\\n5-4. Socialize the puppies.\\nIt is important to socialize pit bull puppies while they are young. This can prevent aggression later in life. Whether it is deserved or not, pit bulls do have a reputation of being an aggressive breed, but that does not mean that your puppies will turn out that way. You can prevent aggressive behavior through training and handling.\\nHold, play, and interact with the puppies often.\\nSeparate puppies if they are fighting, mounting, or biting.\\nIntroduce the puppies to strangers often.\\n5-5. Deliver the puppies to their new homes.\\nOnce the puppies are weaned, they will be ready to go to their new homes. This will typically be around eight weeks of age. Contact the new owners, and make sure that each puppy has a home to go to.\\nDo not abandon un-adopted puppies at a shelter. Shelters are already overwhelmed with pit bulls, and your puppy may be euthanized.\\nTips\\nAlways talk to your vet about your plans to breed your pit bull. Have them on call in case a problem develops.\\nIt is very important that puppies can nurse in their first twelve hours of life. Make sure that all puppies have an even chance of getting milk from their mother.\\nIf you are planning on breeding purebreds, you may want to have them registered shortly after birth.\\nWarnings\\nAlways try to find homes for puppies. Do not abandon them in shelters, which may already have too many puppies to care for.\\nDon't try breeding the female in her first heat cycle after birth. Give her some time to recover.\\nTaking the puppies away from the mother too soon can cause behavioral or health problems.\\nIt is very important to socialize pit bull puppies properly. This can prevent future aggression problems.\\nAlways listen to your vet's advice about whether or not your pit bull is ready to breed.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Breeding your pit bull can be a rewarding experience if done safely and properly. If you have decided that you want to have puppies, you should consider your options carefully. Be sure to responsibly breed the dog to prevent health and temperament problems. Keep an eye on your dog during pregnancy and labor to make sure that there are no problems. Remember that you will be responsible for the puppies for up to eight weeks after their birth, so be prepared to give them extra love and attention.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Deciding to Breed Pit Bulls\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Determine why you want to breed pit bulls.\", \"描述\": \"Think carefully about the reasons why you want to breed your pit bull. Perhaps you want puppies, or maybe your pit bull is a purebred. Breeding a dog can be expensive. You will have to take good care of your pregnant female, pay for multiple vet visits, and supervise the puppies during their first weeks of life. Make sure that you are dedicated to the idea before you begin.\\nPit bulls are one of the most commonly surrendered dogs. In some areas, they can compose up to 40% of the homeless dog population, and many of these dogs are euthanized in shelters. Adopting a pit bull can not only be a cost effective option for many people but it can also save a life.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Research your local laws.\", \"描述\": \"Some areas have breed-specific laws that outlaw the ownership or breeding of pit bulls. Even if pit bulls are allowed in your town, you may be required to muzzle them while out. Look up your local laws, and make sure that you comply with them.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Ascertain what breed you want.\", \"描述\": \"There are several different breeds of dogs collectively known as pit bulls. If you want a particular breed of pit bull, you should make sure that both parents are of that breed. If you do not do this, you may have a mixed litter. The most common breeds of pit bulls include:\\nAmerican Pit Bull Terriers\\nAmerican Staffordshire Terriers\\nStaffordshire Bull Terriers\\nYou may want to check that the parents are registered with the American Kennel Club. This will ensure that the parents are purebred and that they really belong to their breed. It will also increase the value of the puppies if you are planning on selling them.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Test your dogs for genetic problems.\", \"描述\": \"Even if your dog has no outward problems, recessive genetic disorders can arise during breeding. You should have both the female and male dogs genetically tested to look for any potential diseases that could arise. While pit bulls are not known to have many problems, they can face the following issues:\\nHip Dysplasia\\nElbow Dysplasia\\nAutoimmune Thyroiditis\\nNCL-A (Cerebellar Ataxia)\\nEye problems\\nHeart problems\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Locate potential adopters.\", \"描述\": \"Before you begin the mating process, you should find homes for the puppies first. Realize that you might have a litter of seven to ten puppies, and each will need a home. If you start looking for homes early, you can find a replacement home should a potential adopter back out.\\nYou can advertise online, through a local kennel club, or through your vet.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Mating Your Dogs\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Hire a stud.\", \"描述\": \"If you do not have a male pit bull, you can hire a stud from another breeder. You will have to pay stud fees and negotiate a contract with the owner beforehand. The stud can physically mate with your female dog, or he can be used for artificial insemination.\\nLocal kennel clubs can put you in touch with reputable breeders. Always make sure that you are hiring from a reputable, responsible breeder.\\nAsk to see the dog, and verify its temperament first. Make sure it has no aggression or behavioral problems.\\nIf you are looking to breed purebred puppies, be sure to ask for proof of the stud's pedigree up front.\\nAlways make sure to have a written contract between you and the breeder beforehand.\\nThe owner of the stud may request that your dog is tested for disease first.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Take the pit bulls to the vet.\", \"描述\": \"Before you try to mate the dogs, you should have the dogs examined by a vet. Talk to your vet about your plans to breed the pit bulls. The vet will be able to examine the dog for common problems and let you know if the dogs are ready to mate.\\nIf you are hiring a stud, you should ask the stud's owner to take the stud to a vet. Ask for documentation showing the stud's health, including any potential health or behavioral problems that could pass onto the puppies.\\nThe vet can also provide personalized advice on your dog's diet, health, and exercise over the course of the pregnancy.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Watch for the female to go in heat.\", \"描述\": \"Female pit bulls tend to go into heat twice a year, and each one will last about three weeks. During this, you will notice that her vulva is swelling and discharging liquid. Your pit bull cannot mate until about two weeks into this cycle. At this point, you may notice that:\\nHer discharge is turning from a bloody red to clear or brownish.\\nShe is beginning to show interest in mating.\\nShe is releasing a smell that will attract male dogs\\nHer tail moves to the side to make room for a male dog.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Introduce the female to the stud.\", \"描述\": \"Leave the female and male pit bulls together. You may notice the male mounting the female. The male will begin to thrust, and then remain attached to the female for between ten and thirty minutes. Do not attempt to separate the dogs at this point. This is a natural part of the mating process.\\nIf you have hired a stud, you may find it to be easier to take the female to the male. This is because the male may be less likely to mate in an unfamiliar environment than a female in heat.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Test the female dog's progesterone levels.\", \"描述\": \"If you are having difficulty mating pit bulls, you may want to check the progesterone levels of the female. Progesterone is a hormone that is released when the pit bull is ready to mate. This test can help you find the proper timing for breeding or it can diagnose a problem that might interfere with breeding. Ask your vet if you can have your dog tested.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Consider artificial insemination.\", \"描述\": \"Dogs can be artificially inseminated too. You can use a stud that you have personally chosen, or you can use semen from a sperm bank that has been frozen. Ask your vet if they offer reproductive services for dogs or if they can refer you to someone who can provide you this service.\\nIf you are using frozen semen, you may want to check that it has been DNA certified by a kennel club.\\nArtificial insemination can cost hundreds of dollars. Freezing and storing semen may incur additional costs.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Confirm the pregnancy.\", \"描述\": \"You may notice a growing appetite, larger nipples, or an increase in weight in your pit bull. These are not surefire signs of pregnancy, however. The only way to be absolutely certain that a dog is pregnant is to have her checked out by a vet. Typically, a blood test or ultrasound will be performed. This test can typically be done between 28 and 32 days after the dog has mated.\\nA false pregnancy is one in which the pit bull displays the typical pregnancy behaviors but is not pregnant. If you suspect your pit bull is pregnant, take her to a vet and have her tested. A false pregnancy may be the sign of another problem.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Caring For a Pregnant Pit Bull\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Give the mother a well-rounded diet.\", \"描述\": \"You do not necessarily have to feed your dog significantly more during pregnancy. Instead, make sure that she is receiving a well-rounded diet with adequate amounts of calcium and phosphorus.\\nIn the last few weeks of pregnancy, gradually increase your pit bull's food by 15 to 20%.\\nYou can feed your dog a store-bought dog food. Read the nutritional information, and make sure that it is at least 29% protein and 17% fat.\\nCheck that her food contains calcium and phosphorus to promote lactation. It should have between 1-1.8% calcium and .8-1.6% phosphorus.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Find a whelping box.\", \"描述\": \"A whelping box is a special bed that your dog will give birth in. You can buy a whelping box from a pet store or online. You can also build your own. Place the box in a warm, dry area, where the dog can rest quietly after giving birth.\\nYou should line this box with newspaper when your dog is preparing to give birth. These can be changed easily when soiled. After birth, you can replace it with bath mats or blankets.\\nOnce the whelping box is ready, you should lead your dog to the box. Do this early in the pregnancy so that your dog grows comfortable and used to it. This will allow the dog to naturally select the whelping box when giving birth.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Determine the litter size.\", \"描述\": \"There are a few different ways to estimate the dog's litter size during pregnancy. While none of these are completely accurate, they can help you prepare for the number of puppies you may have at the end of your dog's pregnancy. Ask your vet about:\\n\\n beginning at around day 28 of the pregnancy, your vet may start to feel your pit bull's stomach to see how many sacs are in her uterus. This is easier earlier in the pregnancy than later.\\n your vet will use X-rays to count how many fetal skeletons are in your dog's uterus. This is the most effective way of determining litter size. It can be done around day 45 of the pregnancy.\\n your vet will use sound waves to determine if your pit bull is pregnant, although it may not be able to accurately determine the litter size. It can be done around day 30.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Delivering the Puppies\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Watch for the mother to go into labor.\", \"描述\": \"A few days before your pit bull is ready to give birth, she will start to build a nest in her whelping box. Start taking the dog's temperature. You may notice a drop to below 100 °F (38 °C). Within twenty-four hours of this change, the dog's cervix may dilate. This means she is ready to give birth.\\nIn most cases, your pit bull will need no assistance in giving birth. That said, you should supervise the birth closely in case a problem arises.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Count puppies and placentas.\", \"描述\": \"When the puppies are born, they will be inside membrane sacs. Your pit bull should begin licking them. This will help the puppies breathe while removing their sacs. You should try to make sure that there is one sac and placenta for every puppy. If there isn't, there may be a placenta stuck in your dog. Call your vet if this happens.\\nIf your pit bull does not remove the sack, you should open it yourself. With your fingers, gently break the membrane near the puppy's head, and peel it backwards. Remove any fluids from around the puppy's mouth and nose. You can rub the puppy with a towel to help it breathe.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Consult a vet if a problem arises.\", \"描述\": \"You should be alert for any problems that might arise during your dog's delivery. Have the vet's number handy just in case something goes wrong. You may even want to have an emergency number in case the puppies are born during off hours. Call your vet if:\\nThirty minutes of contractions happen without a puppy appearing\\nThe dog does not go into labor within twenty-four hours of her temperature dropping\\nThe dog has been pregnant more than seventy days\\nThe dog appears to be in extreme pain\\nHours pass without the dog giving birth to all of her puppies\"}]}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Raising the Puppies\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Feed the mother plenty of food.\", \"描述\": \"During the first day or two, the mother may not want to eat much. That said, her appetite will return. By three weeks, the mother may be eating up to four times her normal diet. It is important that the mother eats frequently. Break up her food into four meals throughout the day.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Get the puppies their shots.\", \"描述\": \"Between six and eight weeks, the puppies will need their first round of shots. You may decide to get them their shots before sending them to their new homes. Be sure to remind the new owners that the puppies will require more shots at ten weeks. Shots needed at six weeks vaccinate against:\\nDistemper\\nMeasles\\nParainfluenza\\nBordetella\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Wean the puppies.\", \"描述\": \"The puppies will be ready to wean from their mother's milk at around three or four weeks of age. Mix a puppy milk replacer with an equal amount of water. With your finger, wet their mouth with this mix. After a few days, you can crumble puppy food into this mixture. Your puppies should be eating solid food only by six weeks old.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Socialize the puppies.\", \"描述\": \"It is important to socialize pit bull puppies while they are young. This can prevent aggression later in life. Whether it is deserved or not, pit bulls do have a reputation of being an aggressive breed, but that does not mean that your puppies will turn out that way. You can prevent aggressive behavior through training and handling.\\nHold, play, and interact with the puppies often.\\nSeparate puppies if they are fighting, mounting, or biting.\\nIntroduce the puppies to strangers often.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Deliver the puppies to their new homes.\", \"描述\": \"Once the puppies are weaned, they will be ready to go to their new homes. This will typically be around eight weeks of age. Contact the new owners, and make sure that each puppy has a home to go to.\\nDo not abandon un-adopted puppies at a shelter. Shelters are already overwhelmed with pit bulls, and your puppy may be euthanized.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Always talk to your vet about your plans to breed your pit bull. Have them on call in case a problem develops.\\n\", \"It is very important that puppies can nurse in their first twelve hours of life. Make sure that all puppies have an even chance of getting milk from their mother.\\n\", \"If you are planning on breeding purebreds, you may want to have them registered shortly after birth.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Always try to find homes for puppies. Do not abandon them in shelters, which may already have too many puppies to care for.\\n\", \"Don't try breeding the female in her first heat cycle after birth. Give her some time to recover.\\n\", \"Taking the puppies away from the mother too soon can cause behavioral or health problems.\\n\", \"It is very important to socialize pit bull puppies properly. This can prevent future aggression problems.\\n\", \"Always listen to your vet's advice about whether or not your pit bull is ready to breed.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
6,945 |
How to Breed Pokémon
|
1. Determining if Two Pokémon Can Breed
1-1. Check a Pokémon's gender and summary.
Though it seems obvious, you need a male and a female Pokémon to make an egg. You can check your Pokémon's gender by clicking "Pokémon" from the menu, then selecting a Pokémon by clicking the "A" button. From here you will get a variety of information about your Pokémon, including gender and statistics. The information necessary for breeding includes:
The Pokémon you breed will be the same species as the mother every time. The only exception is when Ditto breeds with a pokemon, as this will always result in a non-Ditto egg. You will generally need a male and female Pokémon to breed, although Ditto can breed with any pokemon, male, female, or genderless.
This affects a Pokémon’s statistics as they increase. One state (speed, attack, etc.) will be in red and grow more quickly than normal, while another will be in blue and grow more slowly than normal. Some of these traits are passed down. However, the exception to this is when using a Ditto to breed.
This little paragraph actually predicts what qualities your baby Pokémon will have. Each sentence corresponds to the baby Pokémon's hidden states, called Individual Values, or IV. Each parent passes down 3 of a baby's 12 total stats.
1-2. Know that Pokémon of the same species can always breed.
Two Pokémon that are the same species share the same name. Thus, two Bulbasaur will always breed with each other to produce another. There are a few exceptions to this rule, as baby Pokémon and Legendary Pokémon (Articuno, Ho-Oh, Entei) cannot ever breed. There are a few other exceptions as well, as these Pokémon cannot breed.:
Any "baby" Pokémon.
Nidorina and Nidoqueen.
Cosplay Pikachu
Unown
1-3. Learn about different egg groups.
Pokémon do not have to be the exact same species in order to breed. There are several large categories, made up of similar Pokémon, that are all able to interbreed. Two Pokémon of the same egg group can breed as long as one is male and the other is female. These groups are complex and often overlapping, allowing trainers variety when breeding Pokémon. A complete list of egg groups can be found here.
When breeding two different species, the baby Pokémon always will be the same species as the mother. But if a Ditto was used to make the egg, the baby will never be a Ditto.
Egg groups are largely determined by appearance: there is a Plant Group, a Flying Group for birds, and a Human-Like Group for Pokémon that walk on two legs.
Pokémon only need to share one egg group to be compatible.
Pokémon in the Undiscovered Egg Group cannot breed.
1-4. Know that a Ditto can breed with almost any Pokémon.
The shape-shifting, genderless Pokémon Ditto can be used to mate with Pokémon from all egg groups excepting the Undiscovered and Ditto groups.
Genderless Pokémon, such as Magnemite or Golett, can only breed with a Ditto.
The Pokémon produced by Ditto breeding will always be the non-Ditto Pokémon, whether you began with a male or female.
Breeding with Ditto is a great way to breed male Pokémon.
2. Obtaining an Egg
2-1. Head to the game's Pokémon Daycare.
The Daycare is where you leave your Pokémon to gain levels automatically. It is also a place to leave two compatible Pokémon so that they have the privacy to begin egg-making. Find your game's Daycare and talk to the Old Man out front to begin breeding.
In Ruby/Sapphire/Emerald, it is to the left of Mauville.
In FireRed/LeafGreen, it is on Route 5.
In Diamond/Pearl/Platinum, it is in Solaceon town.
In Heart Gold/Soul Silver, it is near the entrance to Goldenrod City.
In Black/White it's on Route 3.
In X/Y it's on Route 7.
In Omega Ruby/Alpha Sapphire it is the same as the Ruby/Sapphire/Emerald games but there is also one in the battle resort
In Sun/Moon it is in Paniola Ranch.
2-2. Place two compatible Pokémon in the Daycare together.
You need to leave one female and one male from the same egg group together in order to have a chance at breeding them. Again, the exception is with Ditto as it can breed with any egg group and any gender (besides the Undiscovered Egg Group). Put the two Pokémon in your party and then talk to the Daycare staff to leave the Pokémon at the Daycare.
2-3. Understand the probabilities of getting an egg.
The Original Trainer (OT) of the Pokémon (whoever caught or bred it) and whether or not the Pokémon are the same species, determines how quickly you will receive an egg. The fastest way to get an egg is to breed two Pokémon of the same species with different OTs. This will give you a 70% chance of producing an egg every 256 steps.
Pokémon from different trainers have a higher probability of producing an egg.
Pokémon of the same species have a higher probability of producing an egg.
You can attach the Oval Charm to any Pokémon to increase its probability of breeding per 256 steps.
2-4. Talk to the Daycare staff to determine how likely your Pokémon are to breed.
Chatting with the Old Man after placing your two Pokémon in the Daycare will allow you to determine their egg production probability:
"The two seem to get along very well!" indicates a high probability of an egg, around 70%.
"The two seem to get along" indicates a 50% chance of an egg.
"The two don't really seem to like each other very much" indicates a low chance of getting an egg, around 20%.
"They prefer to play with other Pokémon more than with each other" means you will never obtain an egg. This means they are incompatible to breed.
In the Generation 2 games (Gold/Silver/Crystal) you must talk to the Pokémon directly -- they will either "care for each other" (highly likely), "be friendly" (likely) or "show interest" (unlikely). Any other dialog means that they won't mate.
2-5. Go out for a walk while the egg is being conceived.
You need to give your Pokémon time to breed. In all games after Generation 2, the game randomly chooses if you get an egg after you've taken 256 steps, based on the aforementioned probability. If you don't get one, you can keep walking to try again next time. It is often best to walk back and forth in front of or around the Daycare, allowing you to check on your egg periodically.
You can ride your bike to make the steps melt away much faster.
If you have a Pokémon with Flame Body or Magma Armour abilities, the amount of time needed to get egg will be cut in half.
In Generation 2 games, every step has the opportunity (though usually under 2%) to make an egg.
2-6. Check in at the Daycare to see if your Pokémon have an egg.
You will need an open slot in your party to accept the egg, so don't go around with six Pokémon. The Old Man will change his behavior if he has an egg to give you:
In Gold/Silver/Crystal, he will appear in the front yard.
In Ruby/Saphire/Emerald, he will step out by the fence.
In Diamond/Pearl/Platinum, he will face the road.
In HeartGold and SoulSilver, he will face left or right instead of down and call the player over the Pokégear.
In Black/White he will call out to you.
In X/Y he will face the road.
In Alpha Sapphire / Omega Ruby he will turn around
2-7. Wait for your egg to hatch.
Eggs take anywhere from 2,000 to 10,000 steps to hatch, so get back to your adventuring and wait to see what happens. To see the stage your egg is at, just go to your party and check the summary of your egg:
The first stage is "I wonder what will hatch from this, it doesn't seem close to hatching."
The second stage is "It appears to move occasionally."
The third stage is "Sounds can be heard coming from the egg!"
The fourth and final stage is when the egg hatches. When you are walking, a text box will appear saying "Oh!," and the egg will hatch similarly to an evolving Pokémon.
3. Getting the Best Eggs
3-1. Know that some Pokémon need to hold incense to produce baby versions.
A small handful of Pokémon will actually produce a Pokémon that is the second step up the evolutionary ladder if one of the parents is not holding a specific incense:
Snorlax must have Full Incense to make Munchlax.
Wobbuffet must have Lax Incense to make Wynaut.
Roselia and Roserade must have Rose Incense to make Budew.
Marill and Azumarill must have Sea Incense to make Azurill.
Chimecho must have Pure Incense to make Chingling.
Mr. Mime must have Odd Incense to make Mime Jr.
Chansey and Blissey must have Luck Incense to make Happiny.
Mantine must have Wave Incense to make Mantyke.
3-2. Know that baby will automatically learn the moves that both parents know.
This is only applicable if the Pokémon could eventually learn the move as they level up. If you breed a male and female Aggron who both have leveled up to learn Iron Tail, for example, the baby Aggron will know Iron Tail as soon as they hatch. This is a great way to pass down moves to young Pokémon and make them powerful from an early age.
3-3. Any TMs from the father will be passed to the child.
A TM is an item that teaches a Pokémon a move, but it can only be used once. However, if a baby Pokémon is able to use a TM, they will learn the move automatically from their father when they are born. For example, you might have a male Charmeleon whom you taught Dig, but you cannot get another TM for Dig. If you breed the male Charmeleon with a female Pokémon who could also learn Dig, the resulting baby would automatically know Dig from birth.
This is a great way to "reuse" great TMs that you cannot get your hands on again.
Generation VI, unfortunately, created some exceptions to this rule.
3-4. Know that certain "egg moves" can be passed down from the mother in Generations VI or later.
This new feature makes it easier to give great moves to you baby Pokémon that they might not normally learn. For example, if you have a female Dragonite that knows Outrage and they mate with a Charizard, the resulting Dratini will know Outrage as well.
Genderless Pokémon cannot inherit egg moves.
A exhaustive list of all known egg moves can be found online here.
3-5. Try "chain breeding" to get specific moves from one Pokémon to another.
For instance, Eevee can only use Wish if it has learned it through a breeding chain. But Eevee cannot breed directly with any Pokémon that can learn Wish -- you'll need an extra step. It is possible to breed a male Togekiss with Wish with a female Pikachu, then breed the resulting male baby Pikachu (with Wish) with a female Eevee, and voila -- a baby Eevee with Wish.
This is a time-consuming process, but is essential to get the "perfect" move set for some trainers.
3-6. Understand the concept of IV inheritance.
IVs, or Individual Values, are hidden numbers between 0-31 that determine a Pokémon's stats. They are Pokémon's version of genes. Higher values determine how high your Pokémon's maximum stats can be. When Pokémon breed, each parent passes three of their IV's down to the baby and the rest are randomly selected. To get an idea of a Pokémon’s IV, read the parents "Nature." If they talk about quickness, the Pokémon has a high Speed IV, if they talk about "curiosity," they have a high Special Attack IV. However, this is not an exact science, as exact IVs are hidden from players.
The item "Destiny Link," when attached, passes five of the parent's IVs down instead of three.
Attaching a "Power" object, like a belt or anklet, forces the parent to pass down the associated IV. So if you have a Power Weight on (grows HP), the parent's HP IV will be passed down.
Advanced players can consult an IV predictor online to get estimations at their Pokémon's IV scores and make breeding decisions.
Warnings
Remember legendary Pokémon cannot breed (with the exception of Manaphy).
Pokémon from the Undiscovered Egg Group also cannot breed.
Check back often to the Day Care so you won't have to pay too much! If they don't gain a level, it will cost you 100 Poké Dollars. However, if the Pokémon leveled up during its stay at the Day Care, it will cost more to remove per level gained. Remember to remove them from Day Care when you are done breeding (unless you really want them to stay and level up). Sun/Moon will cost 500 Poké Dollars regardless of how many steps you take; use this to your advantage.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:58:38",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Determining if Two Pokémon Can Breed\\n1-1. Check a Pokémon's gender and summary.\\nThough it seems obvious, you need a male and a female Pokémon to make an egg. You can check your Pokémon's gender by clicking \\\"Pokémon\\\" from the menu, then selecting a Pokémon by clicking the \\\"A\\\" button. From here you will get a variety of information about your Pokémon, including gender and statistics. The information necessary for breeding includes:\\n\\n The Pokémon you breed will be the same species as the mother every time. The only exception is when Ditto breeds with a pokemon, as this will always result in a non-Ditto egg. You will generally need a male and female Pokémon to breed, although Ditto can breed with any pokemon, male, female, or genderless.\\n This affects a Pokémon’s statistics as they increase. One state (speed, attack, etc.) will be in red and grow more quickly than normal, while another will be in blue and grow more slowly than normal. Some of these traits are passed down. However, the exception to this is when using a Ditto to breed.\\n This little paragraph actually predicts what qualities your baby Pokémon will have. Each sentence corresponds to the baby Pokémon's hidden states, called Individual Values, or IV. Each parent passes down 3 of a baby's 12 total stats.\\n1-2. Know that Pokémon of the same species can always breed.\\nTwo Pokémon that are the same species share the same name. Thus, two Bulbasaur will always breed with each other to produce another. There are a few exceptions to this rule, as baby Pokémon and Legendary Pokémon (Articuno, Ho-Oh, Entei) cannot ever breed. There are a few other exceptions as well, as these Pokémon cannot breed.:\\nAny \\\"baby\\\" Pokémon.\\nNidorina and Nidoqueen.\\nCosplay Pikachu\\nUnown\\n1-3. Learn about different egg groups.\\nPokémon do not have to be the exact same species in order to breed. There are several large categories, made up of similar Pokémon, that are all able to interbreed. Two Pokémon of the same egg group can breed as long as one is male and the other is female. These groups are complex and often overlapping, allowing trainers variety when breeding Pokémon. A complete list of egg groups can be found here.\\nWhen breeding two different species, the baby Pokémon always will be the same species as the mother. But if a Ditto was used to make the egg, the baby will never be a Ditto.\\nEgg groups are largely determined by appearance: there is a Plant Group, a Flying Group for birds, and a Human-Like Group for Pokémon that walk on two legs.\\nPokémon only need to share one egg group to be compatible.\\nPokémon in the Undiscovered Egg Group cannot breed.\\n1-4. Know that a Ditto can breed with almost any Pokémon.\\nThe shape-shifting, genderless Pokémon Ditto can be used to mate with Pokémon from all egg groups excepting the Undiscovered and Ditto groups.\\nGenderless Pokémon, such as Magnemite or Golett, can only breed with a Ditto.\\nThe Pokémon produced by Ditto breeding will always be the non-Ditto Pokémon, whether you began with a male or female.\\nBreeding with Ditto is a great way to breed male Pokémon.\\n2. Obtaining an Egg\\n2-1. Head to the game's Pokémon Daycare.\\nThe Daycare is where you leave your Pokémon to gain levels automatically. It is also a place to leave two compatible Pokémon so that they have the privacy to begin egg-making. Find your game's Daycare and talk to the Old Man out front to begin breeding.\\nIn Ruby/Sapphire/Emerald, it is to the left of Mauville.\\nIn FireRed/LeafGreen, it is on Route 5.\\nIn Diamond/Pearl/Platinum, it is in Solaceon town.\\nIn Heart Gold/Soul Silver, it is near the entrance to Goldenrod City.\\nIn Black/White it's on Route 3.\\nIn X/Y it's on Route 7.\\nIn Omega Ruby/Alpha Sapphire it is the same as the Ruby/Sapphire/Emerald games but there is also one in the battle resort\\nIn Sun/Moon it is in Paniola Ranch.\\n2-2. Place two compatible Pokémon in the Daycare together.\\nYou need to leave one female and one male from the same egg group together in order to have a chance at breeding them. Again, the exception is with Ditto as it can breed with any egg group and any gender (besides the Undiscovered Egg Group). Put the two Pokémon in your party and then talk to the Daycare staff to leave the Pokémon at the Daycare.\\n2-3. Understand the probabilities of getting an egg.\\nThe Original Trainer (OT) of the Pokémon (whoever caught or bred it) and whether or not the Pokémon are the same species, determines how quickly you will receive an egg. The fastest way to get an egg is to breed two Pokémon of the same species with different OTs. This will give you a 70% chance of producing an egg every 256 steps.\\nPokémon from different trainers have a higher probability of producing an egg.\\nPokémon of the same species have a higher probability of producing an egg.\\nYou can attach the Oval Charm to any Pokémon to increase its probability of breeding per 256 steps.\\n2-4. Talk to the Daycare staff to determine how likely your Pokémon are to breed.\\nChatting with the Old Man after placing your two Pokémon in the Daycare will allow you to determine their egg production probability:\\n\\\"The two seem to get along very well!\\\" indicates a high probability of an egg, around 70%.\\n\\\"The two seem to get along\\\" indicates a 50% chance of an egg.\\n\\\"The two don't really seem to like each other very much\\\" indicates a low chance of getting an egg, around 20%.\\n\\\"They prefer to play with other Pokémon more than with each other\\\" means you will never obtain an egg. This means they are incompatible to breed.\\nIn the Generation 2 games (Gold/Silver/Crystal) you must talk to the Pokémon directly -- they will either \\\"care for each other\\\" (highly likely), \\\"be friendly\\\" (likely) or \\\"show interest\\\" (unlikely). Any other dialog means that they won't mate.\\n2-5. Go out for a walk while the egg is being conceived.\\nYou need to give your Pokémon time to breed. In all games after Generation 2, the game randomly chooses if you get an egg after you've taken 256 steps, based on the aforementioned probability. If you don't get one, you can keep walking to try again next time. It is often best to walk back and forth in front of or around the Daycare, allowing you to check on your egg periodically.\\nYou can ride your bike to make the steps melt away much faster.\\nIf you have a Pokémon with Flame Body or Magma Armour abilities, the amount of time needed to get egg will be cut in half.\\nIn Generation 2 games, every step has the opportunity (though usually under 2%) to make an egg.\\n2-6. Check in at the Daycare to see if your Pokémon have an egg.\\nYou will need an open slot in your party to accept the egg, so don't go around with six Pokémon. The Old Man will change his behavior if he has an egg to give you:\\nIn Gold/Silver/Crystal, he will appear in the front yard.\\nIn Ruby/Saphire/Emerald, he will step out by the fence.\\nIn Diamond/Pearl/Platinum, he will face the road.\\nIn HeartGold and SoulSilver, he will face left or right instead of down and call the player over the Pokégear.\\nIn Black/White he will call out to you.\\nIn X/Y he will face the road.\\nIn Alpha Sapphire / Omega Ruby he will turn around\\n2-7. Wait for your egg to hatch.\\nEggs take anywhere from 2,000 to 10,000 steps to hatch, so get back to your adventuring and wait to see what happens. To see the stage your egg is at, just go to your party and check the summary of your egg:\\nThe first stage is \\\"I wonder what will hatch from this, it doesn't seem close to hatching.\\\"\\nThe second stage is \\\"It appears to move occasionally.\\\"\\nThe third stage is \\\"Sounds can be heard coming from the egg!\\\"\\nThe fourth and final stage is when the egg hatches. When you are walking, a text box will appear saying \\\"Oh!,\\\" and the egg will hatch similarly to an evolving Pokémon.\\n3. Getting the Best Eggs\\n3-1. Know that some Pokémon need to hold incense to produce baby versions.\\nA small handful of Pokémon will actually produce a Pokémon that is the second step up the evolutionary ladder if one of the parents is not holding a specific incense:\\nSnorlax must have Full Incense to make Munchlax.\\nWobbuffet must have Lax Incense to make Wynaut.\\nRoselia and Roserade must have Rose Incense to make Budew.\\nMarill and Azumarill must have Sea Incense to make Azurill.\\nChimecho must have Pure Incense to make Chingling.\\nMr. Mime must have Odd Incense to make Mime Jr.\\nChansey and Blissey must have Luck Incense to make Happiny.\\nMantine must have Wave Incense to make Mantyke.\\n3-2. Know that baby will automatically learn the moves that both parents know.\\nThis is only applicable if the Pokémon could eventually learn the move as they level up. If you breed a male and female Aggron who both have leveled up to learn Iron Tail, for example, the baby Aggron will know Iron Tail as soon as they hatch. This is a great way to pass down moves to young Pokémon and make them powerful from an early age.\\n3-3. Any TMs from the father will be passed to the child.\\nA TM is an item that teaches a Pokémon a move, but it can only be used once. However, if a baby Pokémon is able to use a TM, they will learn the move automatically from their father when they are born. For example, you might have a male Charmeleon whom you taught Dig, but you cannot get another TM for Dig. If you breed the male Charmeleon with a female Pokémon who could also learn Dig, the resulting baby would automatically know Dig from birth.\\nThis is a great way to \\\"reuse\\\" great TMs that you cannot get your hands on again.\\nGeneration VI, unfortunately, created some exceptions to this rule.\\n3-4. Know that certain \\\"egg moves\\\" can be passed down from the mother in Generations VI or later.\\nThis new feature makes it easier to give great moves to you baby Pokémon that they might not normally learn. For example, if you have a female Dragonite that knows Outrage and they mate with a Charizard, the resulting Dratini will know Outrage as well.\\nGenderless Pokémon cannot inherit egg moves.\\nA exhaustive list of all known egg moves can be found online here.\\n3-5. Try \\\"chain breeding\\\" to get specific moves from one Pokémon to another.\\nFor instance, Eevee can only use Wish if it has learned it through a breeding chain. But Eevee cannot breed directly with any Pokémon that can learn Wish -- you'll need an extra step. It is possible to breed a male Togekiss with Wish with a female Pikachu, then breed the resulting male baby Pikachu (with Wish) with a female Eevee, and voila -- a baby Eevee with Wish.\\nThis is a time-consuming process, but is essential to get the \\\"perfect\\\" move set for some trainers.\\n3-6. Understand the concept of IV inheritance.\\nIVs, or Individual Values, are hidden numbers between 0-31 that determine a Pokémon's stats. They are Pokémon's version of genes. Higher values determine how high your Pokémon's maximum stats can be. When Pokémon breed, each parent passes three of their IV's down to the baby and the rest are randomly selected. To get an idea of a Pokémon’s IV, read the parents \\\"Nature.\\\" If they talk about quickness, the Pokémon has a high Speed IV, if they talk about \\\"curiosity,\\\" they have a high Special Attack IV. However, this is not an exact science, as exact IVs are hidden from players.\\nThe item \\\"Destiny Link,\\\" when attached, passes five of the parent's IVs down instead of three.\\nAttaching a \\\"Power\\\" object, like a belt or anklet, forces the parent to pass down the associated IV. So if you have a Power Weight on (grows HP), the parent's HP IV will be passed down.\\nAdvanced players can consult an IV predictor online to get estimations at their Pokémon's IV scores and make breeding decisions.\\nWarnings\\nRemember legendary Pokémon cannot breed (with the exception of Manaphy).\\nPokémon from the Undiscovered Egg Group also cannot breed.\\nCheck back often to the Day Care so you won't have to pay too much! If they don't gain a level, it will cost you 100 Poké Dollars. However, if the Pokémon leveled up during its stay at the Day Care, it will cost more to remove per level gained. Remember to remove them from Day Care when you are done breeding (unless you really want them to stay and level up). Sun/Moon will cost 500 Poké Dollars regardless of how many steps you take; use this to your advantage.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"The baby forms of most Pokémon are difficult to find in the wild, but luckily trainers can make them themselves with a little patience and forethought. Breeding Pokémon may seem like a guessing game, but there is actually a logic behind which Pokémon will breed with which. Note, however, that you can only breed Pokémon in the Generation 2 games or higher, meaning all games except for Pokémon Red, Blue, Yellow, or Green.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Determining if Two Pokémon Can Breed\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Check a Pokémon's gender and summary.\", \"描述\": \"Though it seems obvious, you need a male and a female Pokémon to make an egg. You can check your Pokémon's gender by clicking \\\"Pokémon\\\" from the menu, then selecting a Pokémon by clicking the \\\"A\\\" button. From here you will get a variety of information about your Pokémon, including gender and statistics. The information necessary for breeding includes:\\n\\n The Pokémon you breed will be the same species as the mother every time. The only exception is when Ditto breeds with a pokemon, as this will always result in a non-Ditto egg. You will generally need a male and female Pokémon to breed, although Ditto can breed with any pokemon, male, female, or genderless.\\n This affects a Pokémon’s statistics as they increase. One state (speed, attack, etc.) will be in red and grow more quickly than normal, while another will be in blue and grow more slowly than normal. Some of these traits are passed down. However, the exception to this is when using a Ditto to breed.\\n This little paragraph actually predicts what qualities your baby Pokémon will have. Each sentence corresponds to the baby Pokémon's hidden states, called Individual Values, or IV. Each parent passes down 3 of a baby's 12 total stats.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Know that Pokémon of the same species can always breed.\", \"描述\": \"Two Pokémon that are the same species share the same name. Thus, two Bulbasaur will always breed with each other to produce another. There are a few exceptions to this rule, as baby Pokémon and Legendary Pokémon (Articuno, Ho-Oh, Entei) cannot ever breed. There are a few other exceptions as well, as these Pokémon cannot breed.:\\nAny \\\"baby\\\" Pokémon.\\nNidorina and Nidoqueen.\\nCosplay Pikachu\\nUnown\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Learn about different egg groups.\", \"描述\": \"Pokémon do not have to be the exact same species in order to breed. There are several large categories, made up of similar Pokémon, that are all able to interbreed. Two Pokémon of the same egg group can breed as long as one is male and the other is female. These groups are complex and often overlapping, allowing trainers variety when breeding Pokémon. A complete list of egg groups can be found here.\\nWhen breeding two different species, the baby Pokémon always will be the same species as the mother. But if a Ditto was used to make the egg, the baby will never be a Ditto.\\nEgg groups are largely determined by appearance: there is a Plant Group, a Flying Group for birds, and a Human-Like Group for Pokémon that walk on two legs.\\nPokémon only need to share one egg group to be compatible.\\nPokémon in the Undiscovered Egg Group cannot breed.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Know that a Ditto can breed with almost any Pokémon.\", \"描述\": \"The shape-shifting, genderless Pokémon Ditto can be used to mate with Pokémon from all egg groups excepting the Undiscovered and Ditto groups.\\nGenderless Pokémon, such as Magnemite or Golett, can only breed with a Ditto.\\nThe Pokémon produced by Ditto breeding will always be the non-Ditto Pokémon, whether you began with a male or female.\\nBreeding with Ditto is a great way to breed male Pokémon.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Obtaining an Egg\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Head to the game's Pokémon Daycare.\", \"描述\": \"The Daycare is where you leave your Pokémon to gain levels automatically. It is also a place to leave two compatible Pokémon so that they have the privacy to begin egg-making. Find your game's Daycare and talk to the Old Man out front to begin breeding.\\nIn Ruby/Sapphire/Emerald, it is to the left of Mauville.\\nIn FireRed/LeafGreen, it is on Route 5.\\nIn Diamond/Pearl/Platinum, it is in Solaceon town.\\nIn Heart Gold/Soul Silver, it is near the entrance to Goldenrod City.\\nIn Black/White it's on Route 3.\\nIn X/Y it's on Route 7.\\nIn Omega Ruby/Alpha Sapphire it is the same as the Ruby/Sapphire/Emerald games but there is also one in the battle resort\\nIn Sun/Moon it is in Paniola Ranch.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Place two compatible Pokémon in the Daycare together.\", \"描述\": \"You need to leave one female and one male from the same egg group together in order to have a chance at breeding them. Again, the exception is with Ditto as it can breed with any egg group and any gender (besides the Undiscovered Egg Group). Put the two Pokémon in your party and then talk to the Daycare staff to leave the Pokémon at the Daycare.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Understand the probabilities of getting an egg.\", \"描述\": \"The Original Trainer (OT) of the Pokémon (whoever caught or bred it) and whether or not the Pokémon are the same species, determines how quickly you will receive an egg. The fastest way to get an egg is to breed two Pokémon of the same species with different OTs. This will give you a 70% chance of producing an egg every 256 steps.\\nPokémon from different trainers have a higher probability of producing an egg.\\nPokémon of the same species have a higher probability of producing an egg.\\nYou can attach the Oval Charm to any Pokémon to increase its probability of breeding per 256 steps.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Talk to the Daycare staff to determine how likely your Pokémon are to breed.\", \"描述\": \"Chatting with the Old Man after placing your two Pokémon in the Daycare will allow you to determine their egg production probability:\\n\\\"The two seem to get along very well!\\\" indicates a high probability of an egg, around 70%.\\n\\\"The two seem to get along\\\" indicates a 50% chance of an egg.\\n\\\"The two don't really seem to like each other very much\\\" indicates a low chance of getting an egg, around 20%.\\n\\\"They prefer to play with other Pokémon more than with each other\\\" means you will never obtain an egg. This means they are incompatible to breed.\\nIn the Generation 2 games (Gold/Silver/Crystal) you must talk to the Pokémon directly -- they will either \\\"care for each other\\\" (highly likely), \\\"be friendly\\\" (likely) or \\\"show interest\\\" (unlikely). Any other dialog means that they won't mate.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Go out for a walk while the egg is being conceived.\", \"描述\": \"You need to give your Pokémon time to breed. In all games after Generation 2, the game randomly chooses if you get an egg after you've taken 256 steps, based on the aforementioned probability. If you don't get one, you can keep walking to try again next time. It is often best to walk back and forth in front of or around the Daycare, allowing you to check on your egg periodically.\\nYou can ride your bike to make the steps melt away much faster.\\nIf you have a Pokémon with Flame Body or Magma Armour abilities, the amount of time needed to get egg will be cut in half.\\nIn Generation 2 games, every step has the opportunity (though usually under 2%) to make an egg.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Check in at the Daycare to see if your Pokémon have an egg.\", \"描述\": \"You will need an open slot in your party to accept the egg, so don't go around with six Pokémon. The Old Man will change his behavior if he has an egg to give you:\\nIn Gold/Silver/Crystal, he will appear in the front yard.\\nIn Ruby/Saphire/Emerald, he will step out by the fence.\\nIn Diamond/Pearl/Platinum, he will face the road.\\nIn HeartGold and SoulSilver, he will face left or right instead of down and call the player over the Pokégear.\\nIn Black/White he will call out to you.\\nIn X/Y he will face the road.\\nIn Alpha Sapphire / Omega Ruby he will turn around\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Wait for your egg to hatch.\", \"描述\": \"Eggs take anywhere from 2,000 to 10,000 steps to hatch, so get back to your adventuring and wait to see what happens. To see the stage your egg is at, just go to your party and check the summary of your egg:\\nThe first stage is \\\"I wonder what will hatch from this, it doesn't seem close to hatching.\\\"\\nThe second stage is \\\"It appears to move occasionally.\\\"\\nThe third stage is \\\"Sounds can be heard coming from the egg!\\\"\\nThe fourth and final stage is when the egg hatches. When you are walking, a text box will appear saying \\\"Oh!,\\\" and the egg will hatch similarly to an evolving Pokémon.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Getting the Best Eggs\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Know that some Pokémon need to hold incense to produce baby versions.\", \"描述\": \"A small handful of Pokémon will actually produce a Pokémon that is the second step up the evolutionary ladder if one of the parents is not holding a specific incense:\\nSnorlax must have Full Incense to make Munchlax.\\nWobbuffet must have Lax Incense to make Wynaut.\\nRoselia and Roserade must have Rose Incense to make Budew.\\nMarill and Azumarill must have Sea Incense to make Azurill.\\nChimecho must have Pure Incense to make Chingling.\\nMr. Mime must have Odd Incense to make Mime Jr.\\nChansey and Blissey must have Luck Incense to make Happiny.\\nMantine must have Wave Incense to make Mantyke.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Know that baby will automatically learn the moves that both parents know.\", \"描述\": \"This is only applicable if the Pokémon could eventually learn the move as they level up. If you breed a male and female Aggron who both have leveled up to learn Iron Tail, for example, the baby Aggron will know Iron Tail as soon as they hatch. This is a great way to pass down moves to young Pokémon and make them powerful from an early age.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Any TMs from the father will be passed to the child.\", \"描述\": \"A TM is an item that teaches a Pokémon a move, but it can only be used once. However, if a baby Pokémon is able to use a TM, they will learn the move automatically from their father when they are born. For example, you might have a male Charmeleon whom you taught Dig, but you cannot get another TM for Dig. If you breed the male Charmeleon with a female Pokémon who could also learn Dig, the resulting baby would automatically know Dig from birth.\\nThis is a great way to \\\"reuse\\\" great TMs that you cannot get your hands on again.\\nGeneration VI, unfortunately, created some exceptions to this rule.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Know that certain \\\"egg moves\\\" can be passed down from the mother in Generations VI or later.\", \"描述\": \"This new feature makes it easier to give great moves to you baby Pokémon that they might not normally learn. For example, if you have a female Dragonite that knows Outrage and they mate with a Charizard, the resulting Dratini will know Outrage as well.\\nGenderless Pokémon cannot inherit egg moves.\\nA exhaustive list of all known egg moves can be found online here.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Try \\\"chain breeding\\\" to get specific moves from one Pokémon to another.\", \"描述\": \"For instance, Eevee can only use Wish if it has learned it through a breeding chain. But Eevee cannot breed directly with any Pokémon that can learn Wish -- you'll need an extra step. It is possible to breed a male Togekiss with Wish with a female Pikachu, then breed the resulting male baby Pikachu (with Wish) with a female Eevee, and voila -- a baby Eevee with Wish.\\nThis is a time-consuming process, but is essential to get the \\\"perfect\\\" move set for some trainers.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Understand the concept of IV inheritance.\", \"描述\": \"IVs, or Individual Values, are hidden numbers between 0-31 that determine a Pokémon's stats. They are Pokémon's version of genes. Higher values determine how high your Pokémon's maximum stats can be. When Pokémon breed, each parent passes three of their IV's down to the baby and the rest are randomly selected. To get an idea of a Pokémon’s IV, read the parents \\\"Nature.\\\" If they talk about quickness, the Pokémon has a high Speed IV, if they talk about \\\"curiosity,\\\" they have a high Special Attack IV. However, this is not an exact science, as exact IVs are hidden from players.\\nThe item \\\"Destiny Link,\\\" when attached, passes five of the parent's IVs down instead of three.\\nAttaching a \\\"Power\\\" object, like a belt or anklet, forces the parent to pass down the associated IV. So if you have a Power Weight on (grows HP), the parent's HP IV will be passed down.\\nAdvanced players can consult an IV predictor online to get estimations at their Pokémon's IV scores and make breeding decisions.\"}], \"注意事项\": [\"Remember legendary Pokémon cannot breed (with the exception of Manaphy).\\n\", \"Pokémon from the Undiscovered Egg Group also cannot breed.\\n\", \"Check back often to the Day Care so you won't have to pay too much! If they don't gain a level, it will cost you 100 Poké Dollars. However, if the Pokémon leveled up during its stay at the Day Care, it will cost more to remove per level gained. Remember to remove them from Day Care when you are done breeding (unless you really want them to stay and level up). Sun/Moon will cost 500 Poké Dollars regardless of how many steps you take; use this to your advantage.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
6,946 |
How to Breed Pot Bellied Pigs
|
1. Steps
1-1. Find a suitable mate for your pot bellied pig.
Do a little research on pig genetics to foresee the possible traits the piglets will have according to the backgrounds of both parents. Breeding for specific qualities and looks can help sell them faster and for better prices.
Most female potbellied pigs reach sexual maturity between the ages of 3 to 4 months of age. Female potbellies come into heat every 21 days. Heat can last 6 days, during which time your pig will have a swollen, reddened vulva. The males usually are sexually mature by 90 days. Some pigs can breed even earlier than 3 months, depending on their own genetics, housing, weight, and growth rate.
1-2. Know what to look for.
Some pet pig owners notice changes in their female pigs when they come into season. Their pigs may have accidents in the house and carry household items back to their bed. This will pass at the end of heat, but spaying is the only way to eliminate this behavior.
1-3. Vaccinate.
Three weeks prior to breeding a vaccination is given to the female and to the male pig to aid in the prevention of reproductive disease. Another vaccination is given to the female two weeks before she has her litter. She should also be wormed at this time.
1-4. Put your female with the male.
Your female pig will need to go to the boar and be with him for two to three months. Even though your female has been having her monthly heat cycles, it usually takes a boar in close proximity to bring your female into ovulation. Thus, she will more than likely not be bred the first month. In the beginning of her stay, she will fight with the boar because he is not part of her herd. You can expect her to be bitten, scratched and possibly have her ear torn while they are fighting. It is important that both the female and the boar are up to date on all their vaccinations. It is also wise that the pigs be blood tested for the primary swine diseases prior to being placed together.
1-5. Know about line breeding when it pertains to pigs.
It is important to note that line breeding is not an option with pigs. The rule of thumb for breeding potbellied pigs is no closer than five generations. The more closely related, the more likely the litter will have birth defects. For every generation “in” the breeder can expect a 10% increase in birth defects. Therefore, with the breeding of a very closely related pair, such as father to daughter, mother to son the breeder can expect at least 50% of the babies to be deformed or dead.
1-6. Wait for 3 and a half months.
The gestation or pregnancy period is 114 days.
1-7. Take your female to a birthing area.
At least five days prior to her due date the female should be moved to a farrowing, birthing area. This farrowing area should be totally disinfected before the mother pig moves in. The surface of this area needs to be either earth or be covered with non-skid, washable rubber mat, so that the new babies are less likely to skin their knees or have leg problems as they nurse.
1-8. Provide good bedding.
Bedding for the mother and babies can be small amounts of clean hay, shredded paper or wood chips. The amount used of each type of material should never be so much that the baby piglet can become tangled in it. Household items such as rugs or blankets should not be used. This area needs a heat source, such as a heat lamp. Baby piglets have no control over their body temperature for about 3 days. They need to be kept in an environment of at least 90 degrees during this time; therefore, a heat source may be required even in the summer. The mother pig will move away from the heat, should be become too hot. The farrowing area needs to be big enough for her to do this comfortably. Size of the farrowing area also helps prevent the accidental crushing of the babies by their mother. Most farrowing areas have 2X4 boards attached to the sides of the area. These boards are placed about 6 inches (15.2 cm) from the floor. This allows the babies to escape under or on top of the board, should their mother suddenly begin plop down in their direction.
1-9. Usually, a few days to a few hours prior to delivery of the litter, colostrum, a thin, yellow fluid may be secreted by the mammary gland of the mother.
The average litter size for a potbellied pig is 6 – 8 piglets, but up to 10 – 12 may be born. An uncomplicated delivery may take up to 1-2 hours, with about 15 to 30 minutes between the births of individual pigs. Baby pigs weigh somewhere between 6 and 12 ounces at birth.
1-10. Know when to call the vet.
Veterinary assistance should be sought if the birth of the litter is prolonged, the female strains without producing pigs, few piglets are delivered and labor stops, if a foul discharge or decaying placenta is detected at the vulva, or, close to due date, the female has labored breathing, weakness and inability to rise.
1-11. Get a health exam.
After the births of the entire litter and after the babies have had their first colostrum, they should be removed temporarily from their mother so that the breeder can give them a complete examination. You should look for any sign of birth defect. It is my observation that if you can see a birth defect, there is another internal defect looming that you cannot see.
1-12. Know about when to wean the piglets.
The piglets are weaned at about 6 weeks and no earlier than 5 weeks. All of the piglets should be vigorously eating solid food prior to weaning. This is a very stressful time for the babies and their mother. It is best to move the mother away from her litter so that she cannot see or hear them.
Tips
Watch the pigs when the breeding pair is put together.If they fight too vigorously,be prepared to separate them.
Take the breeding pair to the veterinarian for a health check-up and vaccinations. The veterinarian should perform a pre-pregnancy exam on the female to ensure she is healthy enough to breed.
Warnings
Do not breed them too young.
Before taking the decision to breed, see if you have proper homes to send the pigs to.
Know that the money you spend after them will have to be a lot, and you may not be able to sell them at high prices.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:58:38",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Find a suitable mate for your pot bellied pig.\\nDo a little research on pig genetics to foresee the possible traits the piglets will have according to the backgrounds of both parents. Breeding for specific qualities and looks can help sell them faster and for better prices.\\nMost female potbellied pigs reach sexual maturity between the ages of 3 to 4 months of age. Female potbellies come into heat every 21 days. Heat can last 6 days, during which time your pig will have a swollen, reddened vulva. The males usually are sexually mature by 90 days. Some pigs can breed even earlier than 3 months, depending on their own genetics, housing, weight, and growth rate.\\n1-2. Know what to look for.\\nSome pet pig owners notice changes in their female pigs when they come into season. Their pigs may have accidents in the house and carry household items back to their bed. This will pass at the end of heat, but spaying is the only way to eliminate this behavior.\\n1-3. Vaccinate.\\nThree weeks prior to breeding a vaccination is given to the female and to the male pig to aid in the prevention of reproductive disease. Another vaccination is given to the female two weeks before she has her litter. She should also be wormed at this time.\\n1-4. Put your female with the male.\\nYour female pig will need to go to the boar and be with him for two to three months. Even though your female has been having her monthly heat cycles, it usually takes a boar in close proximity to bring your female into ovulation. Thus, she will more than likely not be bred the first month. In the beginning of her stay, she will fight with the boar because he is not part of her herd. You can expect her to be bitten, scratched and possibly have her ear torn while they are fighting. It is important that both the female and the boar are up to date on all their vaccinations. It is also wise that the pigs be blood tested for the primary swine diseases prior to being placed together.\\n1-5. Know about line breeding when it pertains to pigs.\\nIt is important to note that line breeding is not an option with pigs. The rule of thumb for breeding potbellied pigs is no closer than five generations. The more closely related, the more likely the litter will have birth defects. For every generation “in” the breeder can expect a 10% increase in birth defects. Therefore, with the breeding of a very closely related pair, such as father to daughter, mother to son the breeder can expect at least 50% of the babies to be deformed or dead.\\n1-6. Wait for 3 and a half months.\\nThe gestation or pregnancy period is 114 days.\\n1-7. Take your female to a birthing area.\\nAt least five days prior to her due date the female should be moved to a farrowing, birthing area. This farrowing area should be totally disinfected before the mother pig moves in. The surface of this area needs to be either earth or be covered with non-skid, washable rubber mat, so that the new babies are less likely to skin their knees or have leg problems as they nurse.\\n1-8. Provide good bedding.\\nBedding for the mother and babies can be small amounts of clean hay, shredded paper or wood chips. The amount used of each type of material should never be so much that the baby piglet can become tangled in it. Household items such as rugs or blankets should not be used. This area needs a heat source, such as a heat lamp. Baby piglets have no control over their body temperature for about 3 days. They need to be kept in an environment of at least 90 degrees during this time; therefore, a heat source may be required even in the summer. The mother pig will move away from the heat, should be become too hot. The farrowing area needs to be big enough for her to do this comfortably. Size of the farrowing area also helps prevent the accidental crushing of the babies by their mother. Most farrowing areas have 2X4 boards attached to the sides of the area. These boards are placed about 6 inches (15.2 cm) from the floor. This allows the babies to escape under or on top of the board, should their mother suddenly begin plop down in their direction.\\n1-9. Usually, a few days to a few hours prior to delivery of the litter, colostrum, a thin, yellow fluid may be secreted by the mammary gland of the mother.\\nThe average litter size for a potbellied pig is 6 – 8 piglets, but up to 10 – 12 may be born. An uncomplicated delivery may take up to 1-2 hours, with about 15 to 30 minutes between the births of individual pigs. Baby pigs weigh somewhere between 6 and 12 ounces at birth.\\n1-10. Know when to call the vet.\\nVeterinary assistance should be sought if the birth of the litter is prolonged, the female strains without producing pigs, few piglets are delivered and labor stops, if a foul discharge or decaying placenta is detected at the vulva, or, close to due date, the female has labored breathing, weakness and inability to rise.\\n1-11. Get a health exam.\\nAfter the births of the entire litter and after the babies have had their first colostrum, they should be removed temporarily from their mother so that the breeder can give them a complete examination. You should look for any sign of birth defect. It is my observation that if you can see a birth defect, there is another internal defect looming that you cannot see.\\n1-12. Know about when to wean the piglets.\\nThe piglets are weaned at about 6 weeks and no earlier than 5 weeks. All of the piglets should be vigorously eating solid food prior to weaning. This is a very stressful time for the babies and their mother. It is best to move the mother away from her litter so that she cannot see or hear them.\\nTips\\nWatch the pigs when the breeding pair is put together.If they fight too vigorously,be prepared to separate them.\\nTake the breeding pair to the veterinarian for a health check-up and vaccinations. The veterinarian should perform a pre-pregnancy exam on the female to ensure she is healthy enough to breed.\\nWarnings\\nDo not breed them too young.\\nBefore taking the decision to breed, see if you have proper homes to send the pigs to.\\nKnow that the money you spend after them will have to be a lot, and you may not be able to sell them at high prices.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Pot bellied pigs are a great animal to breed if you have a lot of time and patience.If you are considering breeding your pet pig, it is wise to make sure that at least 3 or 4 babies are placed into good pet homes, prior to breeding.Be Very patient and wait most ardently foe the little critters to arrive.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Find a suitable mate for your pot bellied pig.\", \"描述\": \"Do a little research on pig genetics to foresee the possible traits the piglets will have according to the backgrounds of both parents. Breeding for specific qualities and looks can help sell them faster and for better prices.\\nMost female potbellied pigs reach sexual maturity between the ages of 3 to 4 months of age. Female potbellies come into heat every 21 days. Heat can last 6 days, during which time your pig will have a swollen, reddened vulva. The males usually are sexually mature by 90 days. Some pigs can breed even earlier than 3 months, depending on their own genetics, housing, weight, and growth rate.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Know what to look for.\", \"描述\": \"Some pet pig owners notice changes in their female pigs when they come into season. Their pigs may have accidents in the house and carry household items back to their bed. This will pass at the end of heat, but spaying is the only way to eliminate this behavior.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Vaccinate.\", \"描述\": \"Three weeks prior to breeding a vaccination is given to the female and to the male pig to aid in the prevention of reproductive disease. Another vaccination is given to the female two weeks before she has her litter. She should also be wormed at this time.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Put your female with the male.\", \"描述\": \"Your female pig will need to go to the boar and be with him for two to three months. Even though your female has been having her monthly heat cycles, it usually takes a boar in close proximity to bring your female into ovulation. Thus, she will more than likely not be bred the first month. In the beginning of her stay, she will fight with the boar because he is not part of her herd. You can expect her to be bitten, scratched and possibly have her ear torn while they are fighting. It is important that both the female and the boar are up to date on all their vaccinations. It is also wise that the pigs be blood tested for the primary swine diseases prior to being placed together.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Know about line breeding when it pertains to pigs.\", \"描述\": \"It is important to note that line breeding is not an option with pigs. The rule of thumb for breeding potbellied pigs is no closer than five generations. The more closely related, the more likely the litter will have birth defects. For every generation “in” the breeder can expect a 10% increase in birth defects. Therefore, with the breeding of a very closely related pair, such as father to daughter, mother to son the breeder can expect at least 50% of the babies to be deformed or dead.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Wait for 3 and a half months.\", \"描述\": \"The gestation or pregnancy period is 114 days.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Take your female to a birthing area.\", \"描述\": \"At least five days prior to her due date the female should be moved to a farrowing, birthing area. This farrowing area should be totally disinfected before the mother pig moves in. The surface of this area needs to be either earth or be covered with non-skid, washable rubber mat, so that the new babies are less likely to skin their knees or have leg problems as they nurse.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Provide good bedding.\", \"描述\": \"Bedding for the mother and babies can be small amounts of clean hay, shredded paper or wood chips. The amount used of each type of material should never be so much that the baby piglet can become tangled in it. Household items such as rugs or blankets should not be used. This area needs a heat source, such as a heat lamp. Baby piglets have no control over their body temperature for about 3 days. They need to be kept in an environment of at least 90 degrees during this time; therefore, a heat source may be required even in the summer. The mother pig will move away from the heat, should be become too hot. The farrowing area needs to be big enough for her to do this comfortably. Size of the farrowing area also helps prevent the accidental crushing of the babies by their mother. Most farrowing areas have 2X4 boards attached to the sides of the area. These boards are placed about 6 inches (15.2 cm) from the floor. This allows the babies to escape under or on top of the board, should their mother suddenly begin plop down in their direction.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Usually, a few days to a few hours prior to delivery of the litter, colostrum, a thin, yellow fluid may be secreted by the mammary gland of the mother.\", \"描述\": \"The average litter size for a potbellied pig is 6 – 8 piglets, but up to 10 – 12 may be born. An uncomplicated delivery may take up to 1-2 hours, with about 15 to 30 minutes between the births of individual pigs. Baby pigs weigh somewhere between 6 and 12 ounces at birth.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Know when to call the vet.\", \"描述\": \"Veterinary assistance should be sought if the birth of the litter is prolonged, the female strains without producing pigs, few piglets are delivered and labor stops, if a foul discharge or decaying placenta is detected at the vulva, or, close to due date, the female has labored breathing, weakness and inability to rise.\"}, {\"编号\": 11, \"标题\": \"Get a health exam.\", \"描述\": \"After the births of the entire litter and after the babies have had their first colostrum, they should be removed temporarily from their mother so that the breeder can give them a complete examination. You should look for any sign of birth defect. It is my observation that if you can see a birth defect, there is another internal defect looming that you cannot see.\"}, {\"编号\": 12, \"标题\": \"Know about when to wean the piglets.\", \"描述\": \"The piglets are weaned at about 6 weeks and no earlier than 5 weeks. All of the piglets should be vigorously eating solid food prior to weaning. This is a very stressful time for the babies and their mother. It is best to move the mother away from her litter so that she cannot see or hear them.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Watch the pigs when the breeding pair is put together.If they fight too vigorously,be prepared to separate them.\\n\", \"Take the breeding pair to the veterinarian for a health check-up and vaccinations. The veterinarian should perform a pre-pregnancy exam on the female to ensure she is healthy enough to breed.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Do not breed them too young.\\n\", \"Before taking the decision to breed, see if you have proper homes to send the pigs to.\\n\", \"Know that the money you spend after them will have to be a lot, and you may not be able to sell them at high prices.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
6,947 |
How to Breed Pugs
|
1. Deciding to Breed Your Pug
1-1. Examine your motivations for breeding.
When you begin thinking about breeding your pug, you need to make sure that you are breeding for the right reason. The real reason you should breed your pug is to improve the pug breed overall.
This means that you want to breed your pug in order to produce more happy, healthy pug specimens.
You should not breed pugs if you just want to make money or profit in any other way.
1-2. Find homes for puppies before you start
Breeding pugs is not a solitary practice. Once your pug produces puppies, the puppies will need some place to go. To ensure that your breeding can go off without a hitch, try to line up homes for the pug puppies ahead of time. You will need to screen possible owners to ensure that they will create a good home for the pug.
If you have the room, money, and space, you can plan to keep the puppies as long as you want or until you find them a home after they are born. Keep in mind that this cost includes vaccinations, dewormings, parasite controls, and spaying/neutering.
You can never be sure of how many puppies your pug will have, but make sure you have a decent number of homes, between five to seven, already lined up.
This preparation will ensure the puppies don’t end up a burden to you and keeps them out of shelters.
1-3. Research pug pregnancy.
Before you start breeding your pug, you need to make sure you understand what goes into pug pregnancy. You will need to know how to cope with a pregnant pug. This includes how long they stay pregnant, what kind of care she will need when pregnant, and any emergencies that may arise.
You also need to know how to handle the birth process as well.
You should also make sure you have a veterinarian you trust and that you can call in case there is an emergency.
2. Determining If Your Pug Is Right For Breeding
2-1. Watch your pug’s temperament.
Your pug needs to have a pleasant and enjoyable temperament. The pug you plan to breed with yours should also be well behaved and even tempered. This will ensure their puppies will be good, strong pets.
If your dog has any emotional or temperament issues, you should rethink breeding him or her. You only want to breed the best pugs you can.
2-2. Verify your pug’s genes.
Before you breed your pug, you need to have him tested to determine his genetic background. This will test your dog’s bloodline to ensure there are only good qualities in his or her bloodline. If your pug is a registered as a purebred, you can obtain your dog’s bloodline from the American Kennel Club or other registering authority.
You need to be sure your pug and the pug you are planning to breed with are not directly related in order to prevent any possible genetic defects caused by inbreeding.
2-3. Examine your pug’s health.
Your pug should be in fine physical shape in order to be bred. This means your pug should be free from any genetic health problems that could be passed down from him or her to the puppies. Take your pug to the veterinarian to get checked out. Common pug diseases that would deter you from breeding your pug include:
Luxating patellas, also known as 'wobbly kneecaps', which is the excess movement of the kneecap sideways that can cause the hind leg to lock in an extended position.
Hip dysplasia, which is when the hips are poorly formed so they do not move smoothly in the hip joint, causing the the dog to have a weak back end and lead to early arthritis
Entropion, which is an inwards turning of the eyelids where the hairs rub on the surface of the eye and cause constant irritation
Hemivertebra, which is a malformation of the spine bones that causes a physical deformity of the spine
Cleft palate, which is a separation of the palate of the mouth area, often corrected by surgery at a young age
2-4. Check your pug’s vaccination status.
Before your pug is mated or bred, you need to ensure he or she is up to date on all necessary vaccinations. This is especially important for your female pug because most vaccines cannot be given during pregnancy.
Your pug must have the immunity provided by vaccination so she can pass some of these antibodies on to her puppies via her milk, which will give the puppies a low level of protection at a time when their immune systems are weak and developing.
She should also be up to date with all her parasite treatments as well, including everything from heartworm to roundworms.
All these things are also important for female pugs because pregnancy suppresses the immune system. This means that any parasite could take advantage of her weakened immunity and breed, which could impact her health and as well as the unborn puppies.
2-5. Evaluate your pug’s weight.
Your pug should be at a healthy weight in order to be healthy enough to breed. To check your pug’s weight, run your fingers along his or her rib cage. With a gently pressure, you should be able to easily feel the ribs with no rolls of fat in the way.
Your pug should also have a defined waistline if you look from the side and above. However, there should be enough fat cover that the bones of the hips and pelvis do not stick through.
2-6. Consider your pug’s age.
When deciding to breed your female pug, you should make sure she is at least 18 months old. This means she should have gone through at least three heat cycles, which will allow her the right amount of time to fully grow and mature. This will make sure that she can handle the rigors of pregnancy and giving birth.
The male pug should be around 12 to 15 months, since this is how long it would take him to reach full sexual maturity.
Female pugs should not be bred if they are older than six years old. By this age, she is approaching the dog equivalent of retirement age, which means that the strain of pregnancy could cause organ damage.
Also, as a general rule, once your pug is bred, she should not have another litters within the following season, so make sure to give her a break in between. Female pugs should also not have more than four litters during her life.
2-7. Pick the right male pug.
If you don’t have both a female and male pug, you can find your pug a stud, or breed-ready male dog, through different sources. You can buying the services of a male pug, find another local breeder, or find an owner willing to help you out. Make sure you ask to see the male pug’s pedigree and see if he is registered with the Kennel Club, which will allow the puppies to be registered as purebred.
The Kennel Club does not keep a register of stud dogs, so any information you retain about the male pug has to be done on your own.
Make sure you meet the male pug before you agree to breeding to ensure that he has a good temperament and physical appearance.
3. Breeding Your Pug
3-1. Watch for her heat.
The only time a pug can get pregnant is during her heat. Your female pug will come into heat about twice a year, or roughly once every six months. Her heat period will last about three to four weeks. She will undergo physical changes and her behavior may change some during heat. Male dogs will also be more drawn to her during this time.
The best way to know for sure if your pug is in heat is to look at her genital area. During her heat, she will have a swollen vulva and release a bloody discharge.
3-2. Determine when she is ovulating.
Your female pug cannot get pregnant during the whole heat cycle. She can only get pregnant when she is ovulating. This time tends to be approximately day 11 through 14 of her heat cycle.
This is the time when she wants to have the male’s company as well.
The range of ovulation can vary depending on the dog.
3-3. Have her heat cycle tested.
If you don’t want to wait around to check for her heat or guess when she is ovulating, you can have your vet test your pug’s heat cycle so you know exactly when it starts. This will give you the best chance for her to fall pregnant because you will know exactly when she needs to breed.
The vet may swab her vulva and analyze the cells under a microscope slide to tell exactly what stage of heat she is in and if it's a good time to mate her.
You can also get an ovulation blood test, which analyzes the levels of hormones in her bloodstream and detect when she is ovulating based on the rise in hormones.
3-4. Keep her supervised during heat.
During the entire heat cycle, your female pug will be attractive to all male dogs. When she is outside, make sure you keep a close eye on her to ensure that another male dog does not come and mate with her without you knowing about it.
This is especially important if you let your dog free in a fenced in yard. Male dogs are known to jump fences to get to females in heat.
3-5. Introduce the male pug.
Once you determine when your female pug is ovulating, have the male pug brought it. When you introduce them, make sure you keep them on a lead. This will keep them safe in case they don’t like each other, making sure you can separate them quickly. Once they meet, they should take to one another.
The female will not allow the male pug near her until she is ready to breed, but if you have timed it right, this will not be a problem.
Never forcibly restrain the female pug to get her to submit to the male pug. If the timing is right, she will be a willing participant.
3-6. Check for successful mating.
You will be able to tell if the breeding was successful around 28 days after the pugs mated. You can do this through a blood test that will show the change in her hormones.
Your vet can also perform an ultrasound scan a week earlier to check to see if she is pregnant.
You will also notice a physical change to your pug if she is pregnant, with a slightly protruding belly and nipples on her stomach seeming larger than normal around week two or three after mating.
By four weeks after mating, her belly will be obvious.
3-7. Keep your pug healthy during pregnancy.
Take care not to overfeed your pug in the first half of pregnancy. Weight gain at this time can cause problems with giving birth. Instead, stick with regular amounts of her normal food. Once halfway through the pregnancy, switch to a puppy food and feed her little and often, because her stomach will be compressed by the growing puppies.
Also make sure she has plenty of time to rest, since she will be more tired than normal. However, you should still walk her every day, though at a slower pace than before. This should only change if your vet put on exercise restrictions.
Pugs are pregnant for an average of 63 days, but anywhere from 60 to 65 days is normal.
Make sure you have a whelping/birthing box for your pug, which should be big enough for her and any of the puppies and contain a blanket that smells like her.
3-8. Take care of the puppies
When the puppies are born, you need to watch them carefully during their first few weeks. They need be clean, warm, continually fed, and gain weight at a healthy rate. This means they should gain about 10% of their weight a day for the first two weeks.
Around four weeks, give them a larger area to go around it because they will be more active.
Take them to the vet to get their checkups at seven to eight weeks.
Once the dogs are twelve weeks old, you can send them to their new homes.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:58:39",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Deciding to Breed Your Pug\\n1-1. Examine your motivations for breeding.\\nWhen you begin thinking about breeding your pug, you need to make sure that you are breeding for the right reason. The real reason you should breed your pug is to improve the pug breed overall.\\nThis means that you want to breed your pug in order to produce more happy, healthy pug specimens.\\nYou should not breed pugs if you just want to make money or profit in any other way.\\n1-2. Find homes for puppies before you start\\nBreeding pugs is not a solitary practice. Once your pug produces puppies, the puppies will need some place to go. To ensure that your breeding can go off without a hitch, try to line up homes for the pug puppies ahead of time. You will need to screen possible owners to ensure that they will create a good home for the pug.\\nIf you have the room, money, and space, you can plan to keep the puppies as long as you want or until you find them a home after they are born. Keep in mind that this cost includes vaccinations, dewormings, parasite controls, and spaying/neutering.\\nYou can never be sure of how many puppies your pug will have, but make sure you have a decent number of homes, between five to seven, already lined up.\\nThis preparation will ensure the puppies don’t end up a burden to you and keeps them out of shelters.\\n1-3. Research pug pregnancy.\\nBefore you start breeding your pug, you need to make sure you understand what goes into pug pregnancy. You will need to know how to cope with a pregnant pug. This includes how long they stay pregnant, what kind of care she will need when pregnant, and any emergencies that may arise.\\nYou also need to know how to handle the birth process as well.\\nYou should also make sure you have a veterinarian you trust and that you can call in case there is an emergency.\\n2. Determining If Your Pug Is Right For Breeding\\n2-1. Watch your pug’s temperament.\\nYour pug needs to have a pleasant and enjoyable temperament. The pug you plan to breed with yours should also be well behaved and even tempered. This will ensure their puppies will be good, strong pets.\\nIf your dog has any emotional or temperament issues, you should rethink breeding him or her. You only want to breed the best pugs you can.\\n2-2. Verify your pug’s genes.\\nBefore you breed your pug, you need to have him tested to determine his genetic background. This will test your dog’s bloodline to ensure there are only good qualities in his or her bloodline. If your pug is a registered as a purebred, you can obtain your dog’s bloodline from the American Kennel Club or other registering authority.\\nYou need to be sure your pug and the pug you are planning to breed with are not directly related in order to prevent any possible genetic defects caused by inbreeding.\\n2-3. Examine your pug’s health.\\nYour pug should be in fine physical shape in order to be bred. This means your pug should be free from any genetic health problems that could be passed down from him or her to the puppies. Take your pug to the veterinarian to get checked out. Common pug diseases that would deter you from breeding your pug include:\\nLuxating patellas, also known as 'wobbly kneecaps', which is the excess movement of the kneecap sideways that can cause the hind leg to lock in an extended position.\\nHip dysplasia, which is when the hips are poorly formed so they do not move smoothly in the hip joint, causing the the dog to have a weak back end and lead to early arthritis\\nEntropion, which is an inwards turning of the eyelids where the hairs rub on the surface of the eye and cause constant irritation\\nHemivertebra, which is a malformation of the spine bones that causes a physical deformity of the spine\\nCleft palate, which is a separation of the palate of the mouth area, often corrected by surgery at a young age\\n2-4. Check your pug’s vaccination status.\\nBefore your pug is mated or bred, you need to ensure he or she is up to date on all necessary vaccinations. This is especially important for your female pug because most vaccines cannot be given during pregnancy.\\nYour pug must have the immunity provided by vaccination so she can pass some of these antibodies on to her puppies via her milk, which will give the puppies a low level of protection at a time when their immune systems are weak and developing.\\nShe should also be up to date with all her parasite treatments as well, including everything from heartworm to roundworms.\\nAll these things are also important for female pugs because pregnancy suppresses the immune system. This means that any parasite could take advantage of her weakened immunity and breed, which could impact her health and as well as the unborn puppies.\\n2-5. Evaluate your pug’s weight.\\nYour pug should be at a healthy weight in order to be healthy enough to breed. To check your pug’s weight, run your fingers along his or her rib cage. With a gently pressure, you should be able to easily feel the ribs with no rolls of fat in the way.\\nYour pug should also have a defined waistline if you look from the side and above. However, there should be enough fat cover that the bones of the hips and pelvis do not stick through.\\n2-6. Consider your pug’s age.\\nWhen deciding to breed your female pug, you should make sure she is at least 18 months old. This means she should have gone through at least three heat cycles, which will allow her the right amount of time to fully grow and mature. This will make sure that she can handle the rigors of pregnancy and giving birth. \\nThe male pug should be around 12 to 15 months, since this is how long it would take him to reach full sexual maturity.\\nFemale pugs should not be bred if they are older than six years old. By this age, she is approaching the dog equivalent of retirement age, which means that the strain of pregnancy could cause organ damage.\\nAlso, as a general rule, once your pug is bred, she should not have another litters within the following season, so make sure to give her a break in between. Female pugs should also not have more than four litters during her life.\\n2-7. Pick the right male pug.\\nIf you don’t have both a female and male pug, you can find your pug a stud, or breed-ready male dog, through different sources. You can buying the services of a male pug, find another local breeder, or find an owner willing to help you out. Make sure you ask to see the male pug’s pedigree and see if he is registered with the Kennel Club, which will allow the puppies to be registered as purebred.\\nThe Kennel Club does not keep a register of stud dogs, so any information you retain about the male pug has to be done on your own.\\nMake sure you meet the male pug before you agree to breeding to ensure that he has a good temperament and physical appearance.\\n3. Breeding Your Pug\\n3-1. Watch for her heat.\\nThe only time a pug can get pregnant is during her heat. Your female pug will come into heat about twice a year, or roughly once every six months. Her heat period will last about three to four weeks. She will undergo physical changes and her behavior may change some during heat. Male dogs will also be more drawn to her during this time.\\nThe best way to know for sure if your pug is in heat is to look at her genital area. During her heat, she will have a swollen vulva and release a bloody discharge.\\n3-2. Determine when she is ovulating.\\nYour female pug cannot get pregnant during the whole heat cycle. She can only get pregnant when she is ovulating. This time tends to be approximately day 11 through 14 of her heat cycle.\\nThis is the time when she wants to have the male’s company as well.\\nThe range of ovulation can vary depending on the dog.\\n3-3. Have her heat cycle tested.\\nIf you don’t want to wait around to check for her heat or guess when she is ovulating, you can have your vet test your pug’s heat cycle so you know exactly when it starts. This will give you the best chance for her to fall pregnant because you will know exactly when she needs to breed.\\nThe vet may swab her vulva and analyze the cells under a microscope slide to tell exactly what stage of heat she is in and if it's a good time to mate her.\\nYou can also get an ovulation blood test, which analyzes the levels of hormones in her bloodstream and detect when she is ovulating based on the rise in hormones.\\n3-4. Keep her supervised during heat.\\nDuring the entire heat cycle, your female pug will be attractive to all male dogs. When she is outside, make sure you keep a close eye on her to ensure that another male dog does not come and mate with her without you knowing about it.\\nThis is especially important if you let your dog free in a fenced in yard. Male dogs are known to jump fences to get to females in heat.\\n3-5. Introduce the male pug.\\nOnce you determine when your female pug is ovulating, have the male pug brought it. When you introduce them, make sure you keep them on a lead. This will keep them safe in case they don’t like each other, making sure you can separate them quickly. Once they meet, they should take to one another.\\nThe female will not allow the male pug near her until she is ready to breed, but if you have timed it right, this will not be a problem.\\nNever forcibly restrain the female pug to get her to submit to the male pug. If the timing is right, she will be a willing participant.\\n3-6. Check for successful mating.\\nYou will be able to tell if the breeding was successful around 28 days after the pugs mated. You can do this through a blood test that will show the change in her hormones.\\nYour vet can also perform an ultrasound scan a week earlier to check to see if she is pregnant.\\nYou will also notice a physical change to your pug if she is pregnant, with a slightly protruding belly and nipples on her stomach seeming larger than normal around week two or three after mating.\\nBy four weeks after mating, her belly will be obvious.\\n3-7. Keep your pug healthy during pregnancy.\\nTake care not to overfeed your pug in the first half of pregnancy. Weight gain at this time can cause problems with giving birth. Instead, stick with regular amounts of her normal food. Once halfway through the pregnancy, switch to a puppy food and feed her little and often, because her stomach will be compressed by the growing puppies.\\nAlso make sure she has plenty of time to rest, since she will be more tired than normal. However, you should still walk her every day, though at a slower pace than before. This should only change if your vet put on exercise restrictions.\\nPugs are pregnant for an average of 63 days, but anywhere from 60 to 65 days is normal.\\nMake sure you have a whelping/birthing box for your pug, which should be big enough for her and any of the puppies and contain a blanket that smells like her.\\n3-8. Take care of the puppies\\nWhen the puppies are born, you need to watch them carefully during their first few weeks. They need be clean, warm, continually fed, and gain weight at a healthy rate. This means they should gain about 10% of their weight a day for the first two weeks.\\nAround four weeks, give them a larger area to go around it because they will be more active.\\nTake them to the vet to get their checkups at seven to eight weeks.\\nOnce the dogs are twelve weeks old, you can send them to their new homes.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Pugs are one of the most engaging and sassy breed of dogs. Pugs are strong willed at times, but are full of character. If you enjoy your pugs, you may want to have your boy and girl pugs breed with one another. Although this task should not be taken lightly, you can learn the proper way to breed your pug.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Deciding to Breed Your Pug\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Examine your motivations for breeding.\", \"描述\": \"When you begin thinking about breeding your pug, you need to make sure that you are breeding for the right reason. The real reason you should breed your pug is to improve the pug breed overall.\\nThis means that you want to breed your pug in order to produce more happy, healthy pug specimens.\\nYou should not breed pugs if you just want to make money or profit in any other way.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Find homes for puppies before you start\", \"描述\": \"Breeding pugs is not a solitary practice. Once your pug produces puppies, the puppies will need some place to go. To ensure that your breeding can go off without a hitch, try to line up homes for the pug puppies ahead of time. You will need to screen possible owners to ensure that they will create a good home for the pug.\\nIf you have the room, money, and space, you can plan to keep the puppies as long as you want or until you find them a home after they are born. Keep in mind that this cost includes vaccinations, dewormings, parasite controls, and spaying/neutering.\\nYou can never be sure of how many puppies your pug will have, but make sure you have a decent number of homes, between five to seven, already lined up.\\nThis preparation will ensure the puppies don’t end up a burden to you and keeps them out of shelters.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Research pug pregnancy.\", \"描述\": \"Before you start breeding your pug, you need to make sure you understand what goes into pug pregnancy. You will need to know how to cope with a pregnant pug. This includes how long they stay pregnant, what kind of care she will need when pregnant, and any emergencies that may arise.\\nYou also need to know how to handle the birth process as well.\\nYou should also make sure you have a veterinarian you trust and that you can call in case there is an emergency.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Determining If Your Pug Is Right For Breeding\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Watch your pug’s temperament.\", \"描述\": \"Your pug needs to have a pleasant and enjoyable temperament. The pug you plan to breed with yours should also be well behaved and even tempered. This will ensure their puppies will be good, strong pets.\\nIf your dog has any emotional or temperament issues, you should rethink breeding him or her. You only want to breed the best pugs you can.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Verify your pug’s genes.\", \"描述\": \"Before you breed your pug, you need to have him tested to determine his genetic background. This will test your dog’s bloodline to ensure there are only good qualities in his or her bloodline. If your pug is a registered as a purebred, you can obtain your dog’s bloodline from the American Kennel Club or other registering authority.\\nYou need to be sure your pug and the pug you are planning to breed with are not directly related in order to prevent any possible genetic defects caused by inbreeding.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Examine your pug’s health.\", \"描述\": \"Your pug should be in fine physical shape in order to be bred. This means your pug should be free from any genetic health problems that could be passed down from him or her to the puppies. Take your pug to the veterinarian to get checked out. Common pug diseases that would deter you from breeding your pug include:\\nLuxating patellas, also known as 'wobbly kneecaps', which is the excess movement of the kneecap sideways that can cause the hind leg to lock in an extended position.\\nHip dysplasia, which is when the hips are poorly formed so they do not move smoothly in the hip joint, causing the the dog to have a weak back end and lead to early arthritis\\nEntropion, which is an inwards turning of the eyelids where the hairs rub on the surface of the eye and cause constant irritation\\nHemivertebra, which is a malformation of the spine bones that causes a physical deformity of the spine\\nCleft palate, which is a separation of the palate of the mouth area, often corrected by surgery at a young age\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Check your pug’s vaccination status.\", \"描述\": \"Before your pug is mated or bred, you need to ensure he or she is up to date on all necessary vaccinations. This is especially important for your female pug because most vaccines cannot be given during pregnancy.\\nYour pug must have the immunity provided by vaccination so she can pass some of these antibodies on to her puppies via her milk, which will give the puppies a low level of protection at a time when their immune systems are weak and developing.\\nShe should also be up to date with all her parasite treatments as well, including everything from heartworm to roundworms.\\nAll these things are also important for female pugs because pregnancy suppresses the immune system. This means that any parasite could take advantage of her weakened immunity and breed, which could impact her health and as well as the unborn puppies.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Evaluate your pug’s weight.\", \"描述\": \"Your pug should be at a healthy weight in order to be healthy enough to breed. To check your pug’s weight, run your fingers along his or her rib cage. With a gently pressure, you should be able to easily feel the ribs with no rolls of fat in the way.\\nYour pug should also have a defined waistline if you look from the side and above. However, there should be enough fat cover that the bones of the hips and pelvis do not stick through.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Consider your pug’s age.\", \"描述\": \"When deciding to breed your female pug, you should make sure she is at least 18 months old. This means she should have gone through at least three heat cycles, which will allow her the right amount of time to fully grow and mature. This will make sure that she can handle the rigors of pregnancy and giving birth. \\nThe male pug should be around 12 to 15 months, since this is how long it would take him to reach full sexual maturity.\\nFemale pugs should not be bred if they are older than six years old. By this age, she is approaching the dog equivalent of retirement age, which means that the strain of pregnancy could cause organ damage.\\nAlso, as a general rule, once your pug is bred, she should not have another litters within the following season, so make sure to give her a break in between. Female pugs should also not have more than four litters during her life.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Pick the right male pug.\", \"描述\": \"If you don’t have both a female and male pug, you can find your pug a stud, or breed-ready male dog, through different sources. You can buying the services of a male pug, find another local breeder, or find an owner willing to help you out. Make sure you ask to see the male pug’s pedigree and see if he is registered with the Kennel Club, which will allow the puppies to be registered as purebred.\\nThe Kennel Club does not keep a register of stud dogs, so any information you retain about the male pug has to be done on your own.\\nMake sure you meet the male pug before you agree to breeding to ensure that he has a good temperament and physical appearance.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Breeding Your Pug\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Watch for her heat.\", \"描述\": \"The only time a pug can get pregnant is during her heat. Your female pug will come into heat about twice a year, or roughly once every six months. Her heat period will last about three to four weeks. She will undergo physical changes and her behavior may change some during heat. Male dogs will also be more drawn to her during this time.\\nThe best way to know for sure if your pug is in heat is to look at her genital area. During her heat, she will have a swollen vulva and release a bloody discharge.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Determine when she is ovulating.\", \"描述\": \"Your female pug cannot get pregnant during the whole heat cycle. She can only get pregnant when she is ovulating. This time tends to be approximately day 11 through 14 of her heat cycle.\\nThis is the time when she wants to have the male’s company as well.\\nThe range of ovulation can vary depending on the dog.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Have her heat cycle tested.\", \"描述\": \"If you don’t want to wait around to check for her heat or guess when she is ovulating, you can have your vet test your pug’s heat cycle so you know exactly when it starts. This will give you the best chance for her to fall pregnant because you will know exactly when she needs to breed.\\nThe vet may swab her vulva and analyze the cells under a microscope slide to tell exactly what stage of heat she is in and if it's a good time to mate her.\\nYou can also get an ovulation blood test, which analyzes the levels of hormones in her bloodstream and detect when she is ovulating based on the rise in hormones.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Keep her supervised during heat.\", \"描述\": \"During the entire heat cycle, your female pug will be attractive to all male dogs. When she is outside, make sure you keep a close eye on her to ensure that another male dog does not come and mate with her without you knowing about it.\\nThis is especially important if you let your dog free in a fenced in yard. Male dogs are known to jump fences to get to females in heat.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Introduce the male pug.\", \"描述\": \"Once you determine when your female pug is ovulating, have the male pug brought it. When you introduce them, make sure you keep them on a lead. This will keep them safe in case they don’t like each other, making sure you can separate them quickly. Once they meet, they should take to one another.\\nThe female will not allow the male pug near her until she is ready to breed, but if you have timed it right, this will not be a problem.\\nNever forcibly restrain the female pug to get her to submit to the male pug. If the timing is right, she will be a willing participant.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Check for successful mating.\", \"描述\": \"You will be able to tell if the breeding was successful around 28 days after the pugs mated. You can do this through a blood test that will show the change in her hormones.\\nYour vet can also perform an ultrasound scan a week earlier to check to see if she is pregnant.\\nYou will also notice a physical change to your pug if she is pregnant, with a slightly protruding belly and nipples on her stomach seeming larger than normal around week two or three after mating.\\nBy four weeks after mating, her belly will be obvious.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Keep your pug healthy during pregnancy.\", \"描述\": \"Take care not to overfeed your pug in the first half of pregnancy. Weight gain at this time can cause problems with giving birth. Instead, stick with regular amounts of her normal food. Once halfway through the pregnancy, switch to a puppy food and feed her little and often, because her stomach will be compressed by the growing puppies.\\nAlso make sure she has plenty of time to rest, since she will be more tired than normal. However, you should still walk her every day, though at a slower pace than before. This should only change if your vet put on exercise restrictions.\\nPugs are pregnant for an average of 63 days, but anywhere from 60 to 65 days is normal.\\nMake sure you have a whelping/birthing box for your pug, which should be big enough for her and any of the puppies and contain a blanket that smells like her.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Take care of the puppies\", \"描述\": \"When the puppies are born, you need to watch them carefully during their first few weeks. They need be clean, warm, continually fed, and gain weight at a healthy rate. This means they should gain about 10% of their weight a day for the first two weeks.\\nAround four weeks, give them a larger area to go around it because they will be more active.\\nTake them to the vet to get their checkups at seven to eight weeks.\\nOnce the dogs are twelve weeks old, you can send them to their new homes.\"}]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
6,948 |
How to Breed Quail
|
1. Setting up a Habitat
1-1. Set up the breeding cage at least 2-6 weeks before spring.
Quail typically start breeding during the spring and continue to lay eggs through autumn. Since it will take the quail 2-6 weeks to get comfortable in their new environment, set up the habitat a few weeks before you plan to start breeding your birds.
For example, early February is a great time to set up your quail habitat and place the birds inside. By early spring, they should be comfortable in the cage.
1-2. Put your cage in a peaceful location away from predators.
Your quail won’t lay as many eggs if they feel stressed, so keep them somewhere they’ll be undisturbed. You might build them a coop or place them near a wall so they feel safe. Keep pets and other animals away from the cage.
If the quail are in your home, don’t place them near loud sounds, like the TV or a radio. Additionally, keep them out of high traffic areas.
1-3. Make sure each quail has at least 1 sq ft (0.093 sq m) of floor space per bird.
Your quail should be able to move about the cage freely and comfortably. Since you may be hatching eggs, a bigger cage is optimal for breeding quail.
If you notice the birds seem cramped or fight a lot, move them to a bigger cage.
2. Feeding Your Breeders
2-1. Provide a breeder feed mix daily.
Always feed breeder quail with a mix formulated for breeders. This will provide them with the necessary nutrients for producing healthy eggs. If they aren’t properly nourished, the quail may not produce as many eggs.
Make sure the food is kept off the ground. If you have your quail in a cage, hang the feeding trough at the birds’ back level. If the quail are on the ground, provide bedding beneath the trough so the quail can comfortably stand in front of the feeder.
2-2. Add a calcium supplement if the quail aren’t producing eggs.
Good calcium supplements for quail include crushed oyster shells, crushed limestone, and calcium premix. Mix your chosen supplement into their feed to increase the amount of calcium in their diet. The extra calcium will encourage the quail to produce more eggs. Additionally, the eggs may be of better quality.
You can find a calcium supplement at a feed store or online.
Calcium premix is the best option for increasing healthy egg production through supplementation.
2-3. Give a constant supply of fresh, clean water.
Dump out the water trough every day, then rinse it before you refill it with clean water. If you notice your quail are finishing their water early, provide a bigger water trough or an additional water source.
The water dish can hang at the quail's back level or sit on the ground in front of some bedding.
Disinfect the water trough at least once a week using a diluted bleach solution.
3. Encouraging Quail to Mate
3-1. Place up to 3 females per male in the breeding pen.
In the wild, quail are monogamous, so they pair off. When they’re kept on farms, male quail may breed with 3, 4, 5, or even 6 females! You can pair your breeding quail in 1:3, 1:4, or 1:5 male-to-female pairs.
Don’t place more than 1 male in a cage at a time. The males will fight to establish dominance and impress the females.
Paired quails will usually produce more eggs and will pay more attention to their chicks. However, you will likely have more live chicks if you breed the male with 2 or 3 females.
If you want to eat the eggs, don't put a male into the cage. Female quail will lay eggs whether or not the male is present. However, they must mate with a male to produce fertile eggs that will have chicks. You can keep as many as 5 females together at one time.
3-2. Provide your quail with 14 to 16 hours of light daily.
Sunlight is best for your quail, but you can also use an artificial UV lamp. This encourages the quail to breed because they typically mate during spring and summer when the days are long.
Don’t give them more than 16 hours of light daily, as they need at least 8 hours to sleep at night.
3-3. Keep your pen at around 70 °F (21 °C) to encourage breeding.
Use a heater or fan to adjust the temperature of the breeding pen. Cool or very warm temperatures will discourage the quail from mating.
Place a thermometer in the pen so you can monitor the temperature and make adjustments when necessary.
3-4. Provide your quail with straw and hay so they can nest.
In nature, building a nest is part of the breeding process. Paired quail will build a nest together before they mate. Giving your quail plenty of fresh straw and hay will encourage them to build a nest and lay eggs. Also add a cardboard or wood piece so they can have a new environment.
Change out soiled straw and hay that isn’t used for nest building. Replace it with fresh straw and hay so the birds have a clean, comfortable environment.
4. Leaving Eggs in the Nest to Hatch
4-1. Expect most of your eggs not to survive natural incubation.
Quail eggs require a lot of attention if they're going to develop properly. The parents will need to keep the eggs very warm at all times. Unfortunately, it's common for quail to either not become broody or abandon their nest for periods of time, so their eggs don't thrive or sometimes don't even get incubated.
It's best to use an incubator to hatch your eggs, as you'll get more healthy chicks.
4-2. Wear gloves to remove eggs that are visibly damaged.
Eggs that are cracked and misshapen may spoil the entire lot of eggs. It's best to remove these eggs and throw them away. However, you don't want to disturb the eggs that you hope to hatch. Carefully pluck the damaged eggs from the nest or incubator.
Only remove eggs that appear very damaged, which may spoil the healthy eggs. If you are trying to make the quail incubate them, you don't want to accidentally make the quail abandon their eggs.
4-3. Avoid touching the eggs you want to keep, as the parents may reject them.
Quail may abandon eggs if you handle them, which means the eggs will not incubate properly. Observe the eggs to monitor their progress, but don't pick them up, turn them, or move the quail off of them.
An interruption in the incubation process may result in the eggs going bad and not hatching. If they do hatch, it's possible the chick may not thrive, as it won't develop properly.
4-4. Make sure the parents sit on the eggs for 17-24 days.
The mother hen and father must keep the eggs warm for the entire incubation period in order for the eggs to hatch properly. They will likely take turns sitting on the eggs and may sometimes sit on them together. As long as at least one parent is on the eggs, they should continue incubating.
Paired couples are more likely to work together.
Most breeds of quail hatch in 23-24 days, but Japanese quail usually hatch in 17-18 days.
5. Using an Incubator to Hatch the Eggs
5-1. Wash your hands
If you're going to collect and handle the eggs, you need to have clean hands. Scrub your hands with a mild soap under warm, running water for at least 20 seconds. Then, rinse your hands clean. Dry them with a clean towel.
5-2. Collect the eggs every day, as the hen will lay about 1 egg a day.
Each hen will lay 1 egg a day until she's finished laying all of the eggs in this clutch, which is one batch of eggs. You need to check the nest every day and remove the eggs so that they don't start incubating in the nest. If you're using an incubator, you want to incubate the eggs on your schedule.
If the eggs start and stop incubating, the chick likely won't develop properly. If the egg hatches at all, the chick will likely be unhealthy.
5-3. Throw out eggs that are cracked, misshapen or very large or small eggs.
These eggs will not produce healthy chicks, if they hatch at all. Very large eggs often hatch unhealthy chicks, while small eggs typically produce tiny chicks that won’t thrive. It’s best to remove the eggs and throw them in your garbage.
A single bad egg can contaminate your healthy eggs, so if you’re in doubt, throw out the egg. However, make sure you are 100% sure that that is a bad egg. You wouldn't want to throw away a good egg!
5-4. Avoid wiping the outside of the eggs.
The eggs will have a natural protective barrier on their shell, which you can’t see. The protective coating protects the quail chick from bacteria and germs. It’s best to avoid cleaning or handling the eggs before you hatch them.
5-5. Let the eggs rest for 3-7 days after collecting them.
For the first 3 to 7 days after you collect the eggs, let them rest in a location with a temperature of 55 to 65 °F (13 to 18 °C). Letting them rest for a few days will help prepare them for incubation.
Don’t place fresh and stored eggs together.
The longest you can safely leave the eggs to rest is 10 days, but it’s better to place them in the incubator before a week has past.
5-6. Place the eggs in an incubator for up to 24 days.
Set the incubator at a temperature between 99.5 to 102 °F (37.5 to 38.9 °C). Mist the eggs as needed to maintain a humidity level of about 58 percent. Leave the eggs in the incubator for 24 days or until they hatch.
Attach a hygrometer to the incubator, which measures the humidity.
You can find incubators that spray the eggs for you, or you can maintain the humidity by keeping a dish of water in the incubator.
5-7. Keep the small end of the egg below the large end.
The air pocket will be on the large end of the egg. It’s important that the chick develop with its head toward the large end. If the large end is on the bottom, the chick may develop with its head on the wrong end, making it difficult for the chick to survive.
5-8. Turn the eggs 90 degrees at 3-5 times a day while they’re incubating.
Check on the eggs every 4 to 5 hours so you can turn them. Turn the egg often to ensure the chick develops properly.
You can purchase an egg turner to turn them for you, if you like. Some incubators include an egg turner that does this automatically.
6. Caring for the Chicks
6-1. Expect the chicks to take 10 to 20 hours to fully hatch.
After about 24 days of incubating, the chicks will start to hatch. Don’t help them, as chicks who cannot hatch by themselves are unlikely to thrive. The chicks will rest frequently as they hatch, so expect it to take about 10 to 20 hours for them to fully hatch.
Give eggs that don’t hatch up to 1 day after their expected hatch day. At this point, you should throw out the eggs, as they’re unlikely to hatch. If they do hatch, the chicks likely won’t be healthy.
Although most quail breeds take between 23-24 days to incubate, Japanese Quail usually take 17-18 days to hatch. If you're raising Japanese Quail, expect them to hatch sooner.
6-2. Place hatched chicks in a small box, called a brooder.
The brooder is where the chicks will spend their first few weeks safely. Fill the box with wood chips to keep them comfortable and safe.
If you allowed your adult quail to incubate their own eggs, you can leave the chicks with them. However, they may not survive as well as they would in a brooder because their environment is harder to control.
6-3. Heat the brooder to between 95 to 97 °F (35 to 36 °C) in the first 2 weeks.
The chicks need to be kept warm so they can continue developing. As they grow, you can lower the temperature. Starting at week 3, lower the temperature by 5 degrees F (3 degrees C) every week until you reach a temperature of 75 °F (24 °C). This will help the chicks grow healthily.
Use a heat lamp to warm the brooder.
6-4. Keep a 100-watt light on in the brooder for the first 3 days.
Don’t turn it off at all, even for nighttime. The chicks need the light to help them find feed and water, as their eyes aren’t well developed. It will also help keep them from pecking at each other.
After the first 3 days, you can switch to a dimmer light. However, keep the light on as much as possible to discourage the chicks from pecking at each other.
6-5. Give the chicks starter feed and water.
Provide a constant supply of starter feed and fresh water. The chicks will graze throughout the day. Check on the feed twice a day to remove soiled food and refill the feeder. Dump and replace the water twice a day, as well.
Choose a very shallow dish for water so that the chicks don’t drown.
Tips
Coturnix quail are the easiest for beginners to care for and breed, though Eastern Bobwhite quail are the most common. Japanese quail are also a popular breed for keeping.[18]
X
Research source
Quail hens typically lay 1 egg a day until they've laid an entire clutch of eggs, which is a single batch. How long it takes for the quail to lay eggs will depend on how many eggs the quail lays.[19]
X
Research source
Quail typically lay 12-15 eggs at a time, so expect your quail to take about 2 weeks to lay all of their eggs.[20]
X
Research source
Female quail will start laying eggs at 8-12 weeks. They’ll continue to lay eggs often for the first year of egg laying. However, their production will slow after that first year.[21]
X
Research source
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:58:39",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Setting up a Habitat\\n1-1. Set up the breeding cage at least 2-6 weeks before spring.\\nQuail typically start breeding during the spring and continue to lay eggs through autumn. Since it will take the quail 2-6 weeks to get comfortable in their new environment, set up the habitat a few weeks before you plan to start breeding your birds.\\nFor example, early February is a great time to set up your quail habitat and place the birds inside. By early spring, they should be comfortable in the cage.\\n1-2. Put your cage in a peaceful location away from predators.\\nYour quail won’t lay as many eggs if they feel stressed, so keep them somewhere they’ll be undisturbed. You might build them a coop or place them near a wall so they feel safe. Keep pets and other animals away from the cage.\\nIf the quail are in your home, don’t place them near loud sounds, like the TV or a radio. Additionally, keep them out of high traffic areas.\\n1-3. Make sure each quail has at least 1 sq ft (0.093 sq m) of floor space per bird.\\nYour quail should be able to move about the cage freely and comfortably. Since you may be hatching eggs, a bigger cage is optimal for breeding quail.\\nIf you notice the birds seem cramped or fight a lot, move them to a bigger cage.\\n2. Feeding Your Breeders\\n2-1. Provide a breeder feed mix daily.\\nAlways feed breeder quail with a mix formulated for breeders. This will provide them with the necessary nutrients for producing healthy eggs. If they aren’t properly nourished, the quail may not produce as many eggs. \\nMake sure the food is kept off the ground. If you have your quail in a cage, hang the feeding trough at the birds’ back level. If the quail are on the ground, provide bedding beneath the trough so the quail can comfortably stand in front of the feeder.\\n2-2. Add a calcium supplement if the quail aren’t producing eggs.\\nGood calcium supplements for quail include crushed oyster shells, crushed limestone, and calcium premix. Mix your chosen supplement into their feed to increase the amount of calcium in their diet. The extra calcium will encourage the quail to produce more eggs. Additionally, the eggs may be of better quality.\\nYou can find a calcium supplement at a feed store or online.\\nCalcium premix is the best option for increasing healthy egg production through supplementation.\\n2-3. Give a constant supply of fresh, clean water.\\nDump out the water trough every day, then rinse it before you refill it with clean water. If you notice your quail are finishing their water early, provide a bigger water trough or an additional water source. \\nThe water dish can hang at the quail's back level or sit on the ground in front of some bedding.\\nDisinfect the water trough at least once a week using a diluted bleach solution.\\n3. Encouraging Quail to Mate\\n3-1. Place up to 3 females per male in the breeding pen.\\nIn the wild, quail are monogamous, so they pair off. When they’re kept on farms, male quail may breed with 3, 4, 5, or even 6 females! You can pair your breeding quail in 1:3, 1:4, or 1:5 male-to-female pairs.\\nDon’t place more than 1 male in a cage at a time. The males will fight to establish dominance and impress the females.\\nPaired quails will usually produce more eggs and will pay more attention to their chicks. However, you will likely have more live chicks if you breed the male with 2 or 3 females.\\nIf you want to eat the eggs, don't put a male into the cage. Female quail will lay eggs whether or not the male is present. However, they must mate with a male to produce fertile eggs that will have chicks. You can keep as many as 5 females together at one time.\\n3-2. Provide your quail with 14 to 16 hours of light daily.\\nSunlight is best for your quail, but you can also use an artificial UV lamp. This encourages the quail to breed because they typically mate during spring and summer when the days are long.\\nDon’t give them more than 16 hours of light daily, as they need at least 8 hours to sleep at night.\\n3-3. Keep your pen at around 70 °F (21 °C) to encourage breeding.\\nUse a heater or fan to adjust the temperature of the breeding pen. Cool or very warm temperatures will discourage the quail from mating.\\nPlace a thermometer in the pen so you can monitor the temperature and make adjustments when necessary.\\n3-4. Provide your quail with straw and hay so they can nest.\\nIn nature, building a nest is part of the breeding process. Paired quail will build a nest together before they mate. Giving your quail plenty of fresh straw and hay will encourage them to build a nest and lay eggs. Also add a cardboard or wood piece so they can have a new environment. \\nChange out soiled straw and hay that isn’t used for nest building. Replace it with fresh straw and hay so the birds have a clean, comfortable environment.\\n4. Leaving Eggs in the Nest to Hatch\\n4-1. Expect most of your eggs not to survive natural incubation.\\nQuail eggs require a lot of attention if they're going to develop properly. The parents will need to keep the eggs very warm at all times. Unfortunately, it's common for quail to either not become broody or abandon their nest for periods of time, so their eggs don't thrive or sometimes don't even get incubated. \\nIt's best to use an incubator to hatch your eggs, as you'll get more healthy chicks.\\n4-2. Wear gloves to remove eggs that are visibly damaged.\\nEggs that are cracked and misshapen may spoil the entire lot of eggs. It's best to remove these eggs and throw them away. However, you don't want to disturb the eggs that you hope to hatch. Carefully pluck the damaged eggs from the nest or incubator. \\nOnly remove eggs that appear very damaged, which may spoil the healthy eggs. If you are trying to make the quail incubate them, you don't want to accidentally make the quail abandon their eggs.\\n4-3. Avoid touching the eggs you want to keep, as the parents may reject them.\\nQuail may abandon eggs if you handle them, which means the eggs will not incubate properly. Observe the eggs to monitor their progress, but don't pick them up, turn them, or move the quail off of them.\\nAn interruption in the incubation process may result in the eggs going bad and not hatching. If they do hatch, it's possible the chick may not thrive, as it won't develop properly.\\n4-4. Make sure the parents sit on the eggs for 17-24 days.\\nThe mother hen and father must keep the eggs warm for the entire incubation period in order for the eggs to hatch properly. They will likely take turns sitting on the eggs and may sometimes sit on them together. As long as at least one parent is on the eggs, they should continue incubating.\\nPaired couples are more likely to work together.\\nMost breeds of quail hatch in 23-24 days, but Japanese quail usually hatch in 17-18 days.\\n5. Using an Incubator to Hatch the Eggs\\n5-1. Wash your hands\\nIf you're going to collect and handle the eggs, you need to have clean hands. Scrub your hands with a mild soap under warm, running water for at least 20 seconds. Then, rinse your hands clean. Dry them with a clean towel.\\n5-2. Collect the eggs every day, as the hen will lay about 1 egg a day.\\nEach hen will lay 1 egg a day until she's finished laying all of the eggs in this clutch, which is one batch of eggs. You need to check the nest every day and remove the eggs so that they don't start incubating in the nest. If you're using an incubator, you want to incubate the eggs on your schedule.\\nIf the eggs start and stop incubating, the chick likely won't develop properly. If the egg hatches at all, the chick will likely be unhealthy.\\n5-3. Throw out eggs that are cracked, misshapen or very large or small eggs.\\nThese eggs will not produce healthy chicks, if they hatch at all. Very large eggs often hatch unhealthy chicks, while small eggs typically produce tiny chicks that won’t thrive. It’s best to remove the eggs and throw them in your garbage.\\nA single bad egg can contaminate your healthy eggs, so if you’re in doubt, throw out the egg. However, make sure you are 100% sure that that is a bad egg. You wouldn't want to throw away a good egg!\\n5-4. Avoid wiping the outside of the eggs.\\nThe eggs will have a natural protective barrier on their shell, which you can’t see. The protective coating protects the quail chick from bacteria and germs. It’s best to avoid cleaning or handling the eggs before you hatch them.\\n5-5. Let the eggs rest for 3-7 days after collecting them.\\nFor the first 3 to 7 days after you collect the eggs, let them rest in a location with a temperature of 55 to 65 °F (13 to 18 °C). Letting them rest for a few days will help prepare them for incubation.\\nDon’t place fresh and stored eggs together.\\nThe longest you can safely leave the eggs to rest is 10 days, but it’s better to place them in the incubator before a week has past.\\n5-6. Place the eggs in an incubator for up to 24 days.\\nSet the incubator at a temperature between 99.5 to 102 °F (37.5 to 38.9 °C). Mist the eggs as needed to maintain a humidity level of about 58 percent. Leave the eggs in the incubator for 24 days or until they hatch.\\nAttach a hygrometer to the incubator, which measures the humidity.\\nYou can find incubators that spray the eggs for you, or you can maintain the humidity by keeping a dish of water in the incubator.\\n5-7. Keep the small end of the egg below the large end.\\nThe air pocket will be on the large end of the egg. It’s important that the chick develop with its head toward the large end. If the large end is on the bottom, the chick may develop with its head on the wrong end, making it difficult for the chick to survive.\\n5-8. Turn the eggs 90 degrees at 3-5 times a day while they’re incubating.\\nCheck on the eggs every 4 to 5 hours so you can turn them. Turn the egg often to ensure the chick develops properly.\\nYou can purchase an egg turner to turn them for you, if you like. Some incubators include an egg turner that does this automatically.\\n6. Caring for the Chicks\\n6-1. Expect the chicks to take 10 to 20 hours to fully hatch.\\nAfter about 24 days of incubating, the chicks will start to hatch. Don’t help them, as chicks who cannot hatch by themselves are unlikely to thrive. The chicks will rest frequently as they hatch, so expect it to take about 10 to 20 hours for them to fully hatch.\\nGive eggs that don’t hatch up to 1 day after their expected hatch day. At this point, you should throw out the eggs, as they’re unlikely to hatch. If they do hatch, the chicks likely won’t be healthy.\\nAlthough most quail breeds take between 23-24 days to incubate, Japanese Quail usually take 17-18 days to hatch. If you're raising Japanese Quail, expect them to hatch sooner.\\n6-2. Place hatched chicks in a small box, called a brooder.\\nThe brooder is where the chicks will spend their first few weeks safely. Fill the box with wood chips to keep them comfortable and safe.\\nIf you allowed your adult quail to incubate their own eggs, you can leave the chicks with them. However, they may not survive as well as they would in a brooder because their environment is harder to control.\\n6-3. Heat the brooder to between 95 to 97 °F (35 to 36 °C) in the first 2 weeks.\\nThe chicks need to be kept warm so they can continue developing. As they grow, you can lower the temperature. Starting at week 3, lower the temperature by 5 degrees F (3 degrees C) every week until you reach a temperature of 75 °F (24 °C). This will help the chicks grow healthily.\\nUse a heat lamp to warm the brooder.\\n6-4. Keep a 100-watt light on in the brooder for the first 3 days.\\nDon’t turn it off at all, even for nighttime. The chicks need the light to help them find feed and water, as their eyes aren’t well developed. It will also help keep them from pecking at each other.\\nAfter the first 3 days, you can switch to a dimmer light. However, keep the light on as much as possible to discourage the chicks from pecking at each other.\\n6-5. Give the chicks starter feed and water.\\nProvide a constant supply of starter feed and fresh water. The chicks will graze throughout the day. Check on the feed twice a day to remove soiled food and refill the feeder. Dump and replace the water twice a day, as well.\\nChoose a very shallow dish for water so that the chicks don’t drown.\\nTips\\nCoturnix quail are the easiest for beginners to care for and breed, though Eastern Bobwhite quail are the most common. Japanese quail are also a popular breed for keeping.[18]\\nX\\nResearch source\\nQuail hens typically lay 1 egg a day until they've laid an entire clutch of eggs, which is a single batch. How long it takes for the quail to lay eggs will depend on how many eggs the quail lays.[19]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\\n\\n\\n Quail typically lay 12-15 eggs at a time, so expect your quail to take about 2 weeks to lay all of their eggs.[20]\\nX\\nResearch source\\nFemale quail will start laying eggs at 8-12 weeks. They’ll continue to lay eggs often for the first year of egg laying. However, their production will slow after that first year.[21]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Quail are quickly becoming popular for hobby and backyard farms for their eggs and meat. In nature, quail begin breeding in the spring and continue through autumn, but you can extend their egg production with artificial lighting. If you want to breed your quail, place them in a safe nesting cage. Then, provide them with a healthy diet and create favorable breeding conditions. Once they lay eggs, you can allow the quail to incubate them or hatch them yourself.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Setting up a Habitat\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Set up the breeding cage at least 2-6 weeks before spring.\", \"描述\": \"Quail typically start breeding during the spring and continue to lay eggs through autumn. Since it will take the quail 2-6 weeks to get comfortable in their new environment, set up the habitat a few weeks before you plan to start breeding your birds.\\nFor example, early February is a great time to set up your quail habitat and place the birds inside. By early spring, they should be comfortable in the cage.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Put your cage in a peaceful location away from predators.\", \"描述\": \"Your quail won’t lay as many eggs if they feel stressed, so keep them somewhere they’ll be undisturbed. You might build them a coop or place them near a wall so they feel safe. Keep pets and other animals away from the cage.\\nIf the quail are in your home, don’t place them near loud sounds, like the TV or a radio. Additionally, keep them out of high traffic areas.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Make sure each quail has at least 1 sq ft (0.093 sq m) of floor space per bird.\", \"描述\": \"Your quail should be able to move about the cage freely and comfortably. Since you may be hatching eggs, a bigger cage is optimal for breeding quail.\\nIf you notice the birds seem cramped or fight a lot, move them to a bigger cage.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Feeding Your Breeders\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Provide a breeder feed mix daily.\", \"描述\": \"Always feed breeder quail with a mix formulated for breeders. This will provide them with the necessary nutrients for producing healthy eggs. If they aren’t properly nourished, the quail may not produce as many eggs. \\nMake sure the food is kept off the ground. If you have your quail in a cage, hang the feeding trough at the birds’ back level. If the quail are on the ground, provide bedding beneath the trough so the quail can comfortably stand in front of the feeder.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Add a calcium supplement if the quail aren’t producing eggs.\", \"描述\": \"Good calcium supplements for quail include crushed oyster shells, crushed limestone, and calcium premix. Mix your chosen supplement into their feed to increase the amount of calcium in their diet. The extra calcium will encourage the quail to produce more eggs. Additionally, the eggs may be of better quality.\\nYou can find a calcium supplement at a feed store or online.\\nCalcium premix is the best option for increasing healthy egg production through supplementation.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Give a constant supply of fresh, clean water.\", \"描述\": \"Dump out the water trough every day, then rinse it before you refill it with clean water. If you notice your quail are finishing their water early, provide a bigger water trough or an additional water source. \\nThe water dish can hang at the quail's back level or sit on the ground in front of some bedding.\\nDisinfect the water trough at least once a week using a diluted bleach solution.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Encouraging Quail to Mate\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Place up to 3 females per male in the breeding pen.\", \"描述\": \"In the wild, quail are monogamous, so they pair off. When they’re kept on farms, male quail may breed with 3, 4, 5, or even 6 females! You can pair your breeding quail in 1:3, 1:4, or 1:5 male-to-female pairs.\\nDon’t place more than 1 male in a cage at a time. The males will fight to establish dominance and impress the females.\\nPaired quails will usually produce more eggs and will pay more attention to their chicks. However, you will likely have more live chicks if you breed the male with 2 or 3 females.\\nIf you want to eat the eggs, don't put a male into the cage. Female quail will lay eggs whether or not the male is present. However, they must mate with a male to produce fertile eggs that will have chicks. You can keep as many as 5 females together at one time.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Provide your quail with 14 to 16 hours of light daily.\", \"描述\": \"Sunlight is best for your quail, but you can also use an artificial UV lamp. This encourages the quail to breed because they typically mate during spring and summer when the days are long.\\nDon’t give them more than 16 hours of light daily, as they need at least 8 hours to sleep at night.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Keep your pen at around 70 °F (21 °C) to encourage breeding.\", \"描述\": \"Use a heater or fan to adjust the temperature of the breeding pen. Cool or very warm temperatures will discourage the quail from mating.\\nPlace a thermometer in the pen so you can monitor the temperature and make adjustments when necessary.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Provide your quail with straw and hay so they can nest.\", \"描述\": \"In nature, building a nest is part of the breeding process. Paired quail will build a nest together before they mate. Giving your quail plenty of fresh straw and hay will encourage them to build a nest and lay eggs. Also add a cardboard or wood piece so they can have a new environment. \\nChange out soiled straw and hay that isn’t used for nest building. Replace it with fresh straw and hay so the birds have a clean, comfortable environment.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Leaving Eggs in the Nest to Hatch\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Expect most of your eggs not to survive natural incubation.\", \"描述\": \"Quail eggs require a lot of attention if they're going to develop properly. The parents will need to keep the eggs very warm at all times. Unfortunately, it's common for quail to either not become broody or abandon their nest for periods of time, so their eggs don't thrive or sometimes don't even get incubated. \\nIt's best to use an incubator to hatch your eggs, as you'll get more healthy chicks.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Wear gloves to remove eggs that are visibly damaged.\", \"描述\": \"Eggs that are cracked and misshapen may spoil the entire lot of eggs. It's best to remove these eggs and throw them away. However, you don't want to disturb the eggs that you hope to hatch. Carefully pluck the damaged eggs from the nest or incubator. \\nOnly remove eggs that appear very damaged, which may spoil the healthy eggs. If you are trying to make the quail incubate them, you don't want to accidentally make the quail abandon their eggs.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Avoid touching the eggs you want to keep, as the parents may reject them.\", \"描述\": \"Quail may abandon eggs if you handle them, which means the eggs will not incubate properly. Observe the eggs to monitor their progress, but don't pick them up, turn them, or move the quail off of them.\\nAn interruption in the incubation process may result in the eggs going bad and not hatching. If they do hatch, it's possible the chick may not thrive, as it won't develop properly.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Make sure the parents sit on the eggs for 17-24 days.\", \"描述\": \"The mother hen and father must keep the eggs warm for the entire incubation period in order for the eggs to hatch properly. They will likely take turns sitting on the eggs and may sometimes sit on them together. As long as at least one parent is on the eggs, they should continue incubating.\\nPaired couples are more likely to work together.\\nMost breeds of quail hatch in 23-24 days, but Japanese quail usually hatch in 17-18 days.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Using an Incubator to Hatch the Eggs\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Wash your hands\", \"描述\": \"If you're going to collect and handle the eggs, you need to have clean hands. Scrub your hands with a mild soap under warm, running water for at least 20 seconds. Then, rinse your hands clean. Dry them with a clean towel.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Collect the eggs every day, as the hen will lay about 1 egg a day.\", \"描述\": \"Each hen will lay 1 egg a day until she's finished laying all of the eggs in this clutch, which is one batch of eggs. You need to check the nest every day and remove the eggs so that they don't start incubating in the nest. If you're using an incubator, you want to incubate the eggs on your schedule.\\nIf the eggs start and stop incubating, the chick likely won't develop properly. If the egg hatches at all, the chick will likely be unhealthy.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Throw out eggs that are cracked, misshapen or very large or small eggs.\", \"描述\": \"These eggs will not produce healthy chicks, if they hatch at all. Very large eggs often hatch unhealthy chicks, while small eggs typically produce tiny chicks that won’t thrive. It’s best to remove the eggs and throw them in your garbage.\\nA single bad egg can contaminate your healthy eggs, so if you’re in doubt, throw out the egg. However, make sure you are 100% sure that that is a bad egg. You wouldn't want to throw away a good egg!\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Avoid wiping the outside of the eggs.\", \"描述\": \"The eggs will have a natural protective barrier on their shell, which you can’t see. The protective coating protects the quail chick from bacteria and germs. It’s best to avoid cleaning or handling the eggs before you hatch them.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Let the eggs rest for 3-7 days after collecting them.\", \"描述\": \"For the first 3 to 7 days after you collect the eggs, let them rest in a location with a temperature of 55 to 65 °F (13 to 18 °C). Letting them rest for a few days will help prepare them for incubation.\\nDon’t place fresh and stored eggs together.\\nThe longest you can safely leave the eggs to rest is 10 days, but it’s better to place them in the incubator before a week has past.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Place the eggs in an incubator for up to 24 days.\", \"描述\": \"Set the incubator at a temperature between 99.5 to 102 °F (37.5 to 38.9 °C). Mist the eggs as needed to maintain a humidity level of about 58 percent. Leave the eggs in the incubator for 24 days or until they hatch.\\nAttach a hygrometer to the incubator, which measures the humidity.\\nYou can find incubators that spray the eggs for you, or you can maintain the humidity by keeping a dish of water in the incubator.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Keep the small end of the egg below the large end.\", \"描述\": \"The air pocket will be on the large end of the egg. It’s important that the chick develop with its head toward the large end. If the large end is on the bottom, the chick may develop with its head on the wrong end, making it difficult for the chick to survive.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Turn the eggs 90 degrees at 3-5 times a day while they’re incubating.\", \"描述\": \"Check on the eggs every 4 to 5 hours so you can turn them. Turn the egg often to ensure the chick develops properly.\\nYou can purchase an egg turner to turn them for you, if you like. Some incubators include an egg turner that does this automatically.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Caring for the Chicks\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Expect the chicks to take 10 to 20 hours to fully hatch.\", \"描述\": \"After about 24 days of incubating, the chicks will start to hatch. Don’t help them, as chicks who cannot hatch by themselves are unlikely to thrive. The chicks will rest frequently as they hatch, so expect it to take about 10 to 20 hours for them to fully hatch.\\nGive eggs that don’t hatch up to 1 day after their expected hatch day. At this point, you should throw out the eggs, as they’re unlikely to hatch. If they do hatch, the chicks likely won’t be healthy.\\nAlthough most quail breeds take between 23-24 days to incubate, Japanese Quail usually take 17-18 days to hatch. If you're raising Japanese Quail, expect them to hatch sooner.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Place hatched chicks in a small box, called a brooder.\", \"描述\": \"The brooder is where the chicks will spend their first few weeks safely. Fill the box with wood chips to keep them comfortable and safe.\\nIf you allowed your adult quail to incubate their own eggs, you can leave the chicks with them. However, they may not survive as well as they would in a brooder because their environment is harder to control.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Heat the brooder to between 95 to 97 °F (35 to 36 °C) in the first 2 weeks.\", \"描述\": \"The chicks need to be kept warm so they can continue developing. As they grow, you can lower the temperature. Starting at week 3, lower the temperature by 5 degrees F (3 degrees C) every week until you reach a temperature of 75 °F (24 °C). This will help the chicks grow healthily.\\nUse a heat lamp to warm the brooder.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Keep a 100-watt light on in the brooder for the first 3 days.\", \"描述\": \"Don’t turn it off at all, even for nighttime. The chicks need the light to help them find feed and water, as their eyes aren’t well developed. It will also help keep them from pecking at each other.\\nAfter the first 3 days, you can switch to a dimmer light. However, keep the light on as much as possible to discourage the chicks from pecking at each other.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Give the chicks starter feed and water.\", \"描述\": \"Provide a constant supply of starter feed and fresh water. The chicks will graze throughout the day. Check on the feed twice a day to remove soiled food and refill the feeder. Dump and replace the water twice a day, as well.\\nChoose a very shallow dish for water so that the chicks don’t drown.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Coturnix quail are the easiest for beginners to care for and breed, though Eastern Bobwhite quail are the most common. Japanese quail are also a popular breed for keeping.[18]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\", \"Quail hens typically lay 1 egg a day until they've laid an entire clutch of eggs, which is a single batch. How long it takes for the quail to lay eggs will depend on how many eggs the quail lays.[19]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\\n\\n\\n Quail typically lay 12-15 eggs at a time, so expect your quail to take about 2 weeks to lay all of their eggs.[20]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\", \"Female quail will start laying eggs at 8-12 weeks. They’ll continue to lay eggs often for the first year of egg laying. However, their production will slow after that first year.[21]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
6,949 |
How to Breed Rabbits
|
1. Preparing to Breed Rabbits
1-1. Decide why you want to breed rabbits.
Breeding rabbits is a huge responsibility that takes time, commitment, and patience. Before you begin breeding rabbits, decide why you want to do this. Are you planning on selling them? Do you want them as pets? Are you breeding them for meat? Decide if this is something you truly want to commit to doing. If you don't have the time, think you will get tired of it, or eventually want to send the rabbits to a shelter, rethink your plans.
Rabbits are the third most common animal in shelters, after dogs and cats. Other rabbits get released into the wild, where they die from predators, lack of care, or starvation.
Only a small percentage of rabbits at pet stores find safe, loving owners. They may be sold to inexperienced owners who may accidentally kill them.
Breeding rabbits won't turn a significant profit. Plus, there isn't a high demand for rabbits, especially as pets, because there are already so many pet rabbits trying to be sold.
1-2. Research available rabbit breeds.
There are a wide variety of rabbit breeds available to home breeders. Before you choose a rabbit just because it is cute, be sure that it will fulfill your needs. Here is some basic information about several common rabbit breeds (but this list is by no means exhaustive):
American: The American rabbit breed is a large-sized breed that is a good meat and fur breed. It is typically 9 - 12 pounds, a hardy breed, and they produce large litters.
Angora: There are several types of angora rabbits, including English, French, Giant, and Satin. These rabbits are typically bred for their wool. The wool is hand spun into yarn, which is knitted into light-weight and soft garments. Because of the nature of angora coats, this breed needs a lot of grooming, usually once or twice a week.
Flemish Giant: Flemish giant rabbits are the largest breed of rabbits. They can weigh up to 22 pounds. They come in seven colors, from black through white. Flemish giants were originally bred for meat and fur, but are now largely bred for show or as pets, as they are expensive to feed and have a very pleasant docile nature.
Himalayan: The Himalayan rabbit is a small, white breed that is used in laboratories and bred for show. Due to its small size, it is relatively cheap to feed and raise.
Chinchilla: The chinchilla rabbit breeds are typically bred for their fur but also make excellent pets. They are medium sized, from 9 to 12 pounds, and have docile and curious personalities. Above all, however, their fur is their winning feature, as it is exceedingly soft and enjoyable to pet.
1-3. Choose the right rabbits to breed.
The breed you choose might depend on availability, price, and preference. What you plan on doing with the rabbits also determines which breeds you choose. Some people want to sell and show the rabbits, while others want to keep them as pets, and others breed for meat.
If you want to sell or show the rabbits, make sure to mate rabbits of the same breed. If you are planning to sell the rabbits, mixed breeds have little value. Mixing the breeds when you mate the rabbits also lessens the quality of the stock. A rabbit can't be considered pedigree if there is mixed-breed blood.
If you want the rabbits for meat or genetic experimentation, you can mix the breeds of rabbits.
Never breed full siblings. You can breed half siblings, father-daughters, mother-sons, cousins, and so on. Unless you have a lot of knowledge about genetics and inbreeding, try not to breed pairs that are too closely related.
1-4. Breed your rabbits at the proper age.
You want to start breeding does (female rabbits) when they are reaching maturity. For small-medium breeds, they can be bred at 6-7 months old. Larger breeds can be bred at 8-9 months. Bucks (male rabbits) are usually ready around 6 months old if a small breed, 7 months if medium, and 9 months for a large breed.
1-5. Ensure that you will have homes for the kits (babies) before you breed.
Check that you will have spare hutches for when the kits are weaned, and that you will be able to afford the costs of breeding. Decide what you are going to do with the kits when they have been weaned.
Male and female kits must be separated when they are 8 weeks old. By 10 weeks old for bucks and 3-4 months old for does, rabbits need their own private cage. You must have enough cages for these animals in case you don't sell them.
If you overcrowd young kits, they could fight and injure each other, or live in poor conditions that will affect their health.
You also should have a large, safe enclosed garden for the rabbits.
If you plan on selling the rabbits, try to talk to friends, other breeders, or advertise so that you can line up potential customers ahead of time.
2. Mating the Rabbits
2-1. Breed from healthy, happy rabbits only.
The physical condition of your rabbits when mating them is extremely important. Take your rabbits to a veterinarian before breeding them, just to make sure they are in tip top shape.
Rabbits should not be underweight or overweight because this affects the success of the breeding. You should monitor what you feed the rabbits and make sure you provide the best nutrition so they are healthy.
Check the cage of both the buck and doe for any evidence of diarrhea or loose stools. Check the genitals on both rabbits for any signs of disease of infection, such as extreme redness, discharge, sores, or scabs. These conditions need to be treated before breeding the rabbits.
If your rabbit is aggressive or unhealthy, don't breed it. Breeding aggressive rabbits is not recommended.
2-2. Put the doe in the buck's hutch.
A female's cage will smell like her, so the buck may get distracted by the unfamiliar smells and try to mark the territory. They may also fight. Always take the female to the male.
2-3. Leave the breeding pair together for half an hour.
You want to give the rabbits time to mate, preferably 2-3 times. Having them mate multiple times can help with the litter size and the success of the breeding.
Some people breed them again after an hour or later the same day to ensure a mating instead of letting them breed 3 times in a single session.
If the female is anxious, aggressive, or trying to get away from the male, separate them immediately.
You may want to check the doe's vent to make sure that the breeding didn't misfire. If you find the doe's back or tail wet, the breeding was not successful. Leave the rabbits in the cage and let them breed again.
It is not ideal for bucks and does to be left together for long periods of time. Although they may get along well, they may also fight if the doe becomes annoyed with the buck. Does have been known to castrate bucks. Contrary to popular belief, however, there is no danger of a doe becoming pregnant with two litters at once (unlike hares, which CAN carry two pregnancies, but the embryos are stored until she gives birth).
2-4. Feel the abdomen of the female to determine if it is pregnant.
Palpation is the best way of telling if a doe is pregnant or not. This is the method of using your hands to examine her body by feeling her abdomen to see if there are any babies inside. If she is pregnant, you will feel grape-sized embryos. For beginners, this method is most easily done 10-14 days after breeding.
Pregnancy lasts approximately 28-33 days depending on the breed. Dead litters are usually delivered after day 34, but does have been known to give birth to live kits up to day 40.
If the doe is not pregnant, you can breed her again immediately.
3. Taking Care of the Pregnant Doe
3-1. Provide plenty of extra hay and bedding.
Around day 25, a nesting box should be put in the doe's cage. This is for the doe to build a nest with. The nesting box should have soft straw or hay. Leave extra material around for her so she can make her nest. She will also pluck her chest and stomach hair to fill the nest.
The nesting box should be 18" x 10" x 10". Cut the front into a V-shape or another opening that is 6" high for the doe to get in and out of. Make sure there is a small wire mesh bottom to allow urine and moisture to drain. Also place paper underneath to soak up the urine.
Make a hole in the hay at the back of the box to encourage the doe to make her nest back there. This can help protect the kits from the elements and protect them from the doe jumping in and out of the box.
3-2. Give the doe peace and quiet.
The mother needs a quiet, stress-free environment while pregnant. Don't lift her up unless you absolutely have to. Unnecessary lifting can damage the litter. If you do lift her, don't lift her by her stomach.
3-3. Expect the mother to give birth 28-33 days after breeding.
The mother will start nesting around days 25-27, and by day 32-33, she will give birth. Leave her to it if you do catch her giving birth, though chances are all will be done and cleaned up long before you are awake. Babies tend to be born before dawn.
Listen for cheeping. Kits sound like baby birds, and hearing them is one way to tell if the mother has given birth. You can also tell by seeing movement in the nest, or if the doe has a little blood on her nose.
The doe will clean the hutch to ensure no predators smell the blood or other scents and investigate.
Inspect the litter after they are born. Remove any dead kits. Do this daily to check for dead kits.
If you have bred multiple does at one time, you can foster kits with other mothers if one has too many and another has too few kits, just make sure to mark the fostered kits with either nail polish on their toe or permanent marker in their right ear to be able to tell them apart from the foster mother's kits.
3-4. Seek veterinary care.
You may want to keep your pregnant doe under veterinary care while she is pregnant. Your vet can assess the doe's health and the state of the pregnancy.
There can be complications with any pregnancy. Keep an eye on you pregnant rabbit and take her to the vet if she has not given birth by 32 days. If the pregnancy goes to long it could result in a dead litter.
4. Taking Care of the Doe and Litter After Birth
4-1. Feed the doe more.
Once the kits are born, give her as much dry food as she likes, as feeding kits will drain her. Don't stop with her vegetables, but don't increase them. If you increased the food during the last week of pregnancy, don't increase again until 3-4 days after giving birth. Stop completely if her droppings become loose.
4-2. Know how to treat the mother.
If the doe is happy for you to stroke her and is acting normally, and you have a very good relationship with her, it might be a good idea to let her out for a little exercise. You should let her out for about an hour if she is used to it. This will give you a chance to inspect the nest and remove any dead kits.
Be careful if you attempt to go near the nest if the doe doesn't trust you or gets upset.
Some people say the doe will abandon the kits if you touch them, but others claim you can handle the babies without the mother being upset.
4-3. Check the temperature of the nest.
The temperature of the nest box should be around 100 degrees during week 1. If the nest is good and the cage temperature is 60-75 degrees, it will be fine. If the nest is too cold, the kits can freeze.
4-4. Check on the kits daily.
You want to check the kits during the day and night. Check them while they are feeding so you can make sure they are feeding normally. If they are not, you may need to give them supplementary feed. You also want to make sure they are eating well and gaining weight at the proper intervals.
Checking them multiple times daily can also help you catch any kits that have wandered out. If they are left unattended outside the nesting box, they can freeze and die.
4-5. Clean the hutch and box.
Poor conditions can cause kits to die. You want to make sure the nesting box isn't overrun with urine and feces, and you want to make sure the hutch and outdoor run is clean and hygienic. Sometimes mothers can defecate a lot, which may attract flies. These flies can cause infections in young kits.
Change the nest material a week after the litter is born. Keep an eye on the litter the days after changing the hay. Kits have a tendency to leave the nest box after changing the hay, and if it is cold, they can freeze. Continue changing the hay every few days. Remove the box after 3 weeks.
Replace the paper when used as needed.
4-6. Keep the doe's routine normal.
Let your doe out during the day, but keep in mind that she will have lost hair on her stomach and chest, and putting her on wet grass or out in the cold can be unwise.
4-7. Wean the babies at 6-8 weeks.
Remove the doe from the litter at 7 weeks. Put out food so that the kits can feed freely, ensuring that they get enough feed. At 8 weeks, move the kits into individual cages or in pairs. You can also move all the does to one cage and the bucks to another.
The period of weaning can be stressful for the mother and kits. Make sure that they are all have enough water and food. You can also add probiotics to the water, to help with the digestive health of the rabbits.
Tips
Find out if you need a license to breed and sell rabbits in your area.[33]
X
Research source
Try to get close to the female before breeding her. The better your relationship, the more interaction you can have with the kits.
If your rabbit has had something wrong with it in the past, ask a vet if it is okay to breed. Otherwise, the rabbit might still have a problem that can spread to the kits.
Warnings
A lot of first time mothers will have stillbirth litters; be prepared for dead kits.
If the doe is in labor for awhile but no baby shows, or if she is struggling, call your vet. Don't move her unless on the instruction of a vet, as she may just be taking her time. Also contact the vet if the doe continues bleeding.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:58:39",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Preparing to Breed Rabbits\\n1-1. Decide why you want to breed rabbits.\\nBreeding rabbits is a huge responsibility that takes time, commitment, and patience. Before you begin breeding rabbits, decide why you want to do this. Are you planning on selling them? Do you want them as pets? Are you breeding them for meat? Decide if this is something you truly want to commit to doing. If you don't have the time, think you will get tired of it, or eventually want to send the rabbits to a shelter, rethink your plans.\\nRabbits are the third most common animal in shelters, after dogs and cats. Other rabbits get released into the wild, where they die from predators, lack of care, or starvation.\\nOnly a small percentage of rabbits at pet stores find safe, loving owners. They may be sold to inexperienced owners who may accidentally kill them.\\nBreeding rabbits won't turn a significant profit. Plus, there isn't a high demand for rabbits, especially as pets, because there are already so many pet rabbits trying to be sold.\\n1-2. Research available rabbit breeds.\\nThere are a wide variety of rabbit breeds available to home breeders. Before you choose a rabbit just because it is cute, be sure that it will fulfill your needs. Here is some basic information about several common rabbit breeds (but this list is by no means exhaustive):\\nAmerican: The American rabbit breed is a large-sized breed that is a good meat and fur breed. It is typically 9 - 12 pounds, a hardy breed, and they produce large litters.\\nAngora: There are several types of angora rabbits, including English, French, Giant, and Satin. These rabbits are typically bred for their wool. The wool is hand spun into yarn, which is knitted into light-weight and soft garments. Because of the nature of angora coats, this breed needs a lot of grooming, usually once or twice a week.\\nFlemish Giant: Flemish giant rabbits are the largest breed of rabbits. They can weigh up to 22 pounds. They come in seven colors, from black through white. Flemish giants were originally bred for meat and fur, but are now largely bred for show or as pets, as they are expensive to feed and have a very pleasant docile nature.\\nHimalayan: The Himalayan rabbit is a small, white breed that is used in laboratories and bred for show. Due to its small size, it is relatively cheap to feed and raise.\\nChinchilla: The chinchilla rabbit breeds are typically bred for their fur but also make excellent pets. They are medium sized, from 9 to 12 pounds, and have docile and curious personalities. Above all, however, their fur is their winning feature, as it is exceedingly soft and enjoyable to pet.\\n1-3. Choose the right rabbits to breed.\\nThe breed you choose might depend on availability, price, and preference. What you plan on doing with the rabbits also determines which breeds you choose. Some people want to sell and show the rabbits, while others want to keep them as pets, and others breed for meat.\\nIf you want to sell or show the rabbits, make sure to mate rabbits of the same breed. If you are planning to sell the rabbits, mixed breeds have little value. Mixing the breeds when you mate the rabbits also lessens the quality of the stock. A rabbit can't be considered pedigree if there is mixed-breed blood.\\nIf you want the rabbits for meat or genetic experimentation, you can mix the breeds of rabbits.\\nNever breed full siblings. You can breed half siblings, father-daughters, mother-sons, cousins, and so on. Unless you have a lot of knowledge about genetics and inbreeding, try not to breed pairs that are too closely related.\\n1-4. Breed your rabbits at the proper age.\\nYou want to start breeding does (female rabbits) when they are reaching maturity. For small-medium breeds, they can be bred at 6-7 months old. Larger breeds can be bred at 8-9 months. Bucks (male rabbits) are usually ready around 6 months old if a small breed, 7 months if medium, and 9 months for a large breed.\\n1-5. Ensure that you will have homes for the kits (babies) before you breed.\\nCheck that you will have spare hutches for when the kits are weaned, and that you will be able to afford the costs of breeding. Decide what you are going to do with the kits when they have been weaned.\\nMale and female kits must be separated when they are 8 weeks old. By 10 weeks old for bucks and 3-4 months old for does, rabbits need their own private cage. You must have enough cages for these animals in case you don't sell them.\\nIf you overcrowd young kits, they could fight and injure each other, or live in poor conditions that will affect their health.\\nYou also should have a large, safe enclosed garden for the rabbits.\\nIf you plan on selling the rabbits, try to talk to friends, other breeders, or advertise so that you can line up potential customers ahead of time.\\n2. Mating the Rabbits\\n2-1. Breed from healthy, happy rabbits only.\\nThe physical condition of your rabbits when mating them is extremely important. Take your rabbits to a veterinarian before breeding them, just to make sure they are in tip top shape.\\nRabbits should not be underweight or overweight because this affects the success of the breeding. You should monitor what you feed the rabbits and make sure you provide the best nutrition so they are healthy.\\nCheck the cage of both the buck and doe for any evidence of diarrhea or loose stools. Check the genitals on both rabbits for any signs of disease of infection, such as extreme redness, discharge, sores, or scabs. These conditions need to be treated before breeding the rabbits.\\nIf your rabbit is aggressive or unhealthy, don't breed it. Breeding aggressive rabbits is not recommended.\\n2-2. Put the doe in the buck's hutch.\\nA female's cage will smell like her, so the buck may get distracted by the unfamiliar smells and try to mark the territory. They may also fight. Always take the female to the male.\\n2-3. Leave the breeding pair together for half an hour.\\nYou want to give the rabbits time to mate, preferably 2-3 times. Having them mate multiple times can help with the litter size and the success of the breeding.\\nSome people breed them again after an hour or later the same day to ensure a mating instead of letting them breed 3 times in a single session.\\nIf the female is anxious, aggressive, or trying to get away from the male, separate them immediately.\\nYou may want to check the doe's vent to make sure that the breeding didn't misfire. If you find the doe's back or tail wet, the breeding was not successful. Leave the rabbits in the cage and let them breed again.\\nIt is not ideal for bucks and does to be left together for long periods of time. Although they may get along well, they may also fight if the doe becomes annoyed with the buck. Does have been known to castrate bucks. Contrary to popular belief, however, there is no danger of a doe becoming pregnant with two litters at once (unlike hares, which CAN carry two pregnancies, but the embryos are stored until she gives birth).\\n2-4. Feel the abdomen of the female to determine if it is pregnant.\\nPalpation is the best way of telling if a doe is pregnant or not. This is the method of using your hands to examine her body by feeling her abdomen to see if there are any babies inside. If she is pregnant, you will feel grape-sized embryos. For beginners, this method is most easily done 10-14 days after breeding.\\nPregnancy lasts approximately 28-33 days depending on the breed. Dead litters are usually delivered after day 34, but does have been known to give birth to live kits up to day 40.\\nIf the doe is not pregnant, you can breed her again immediately.\\n3. Taking Care of the Pregnant Doe\\n3-1. Provide plenty of extra hay and bedding.\\nAround day 25, a nesting box should be put in the doe's cage. This is for the doe to build a nest with. The nesting box should have soft straw or hay. Leave extra material around for her so she can make her nest. She will also pluck her chest and stomach hair to fill the nest.\\nThe nesting box should be 18\\\" x 10\\\" x 10\\\". Cut the front into a V-shape or another opening that is 6\\\" high for the doe to get in and out of. Make sure there is a small wire mesh bottom to allow urine and moisture to drain. Also place paper underneath to soak up the urine.\\nMake a hole in the hay at the back of the box to encourage the doe to make her nest back there. This can help protect the kits from the elements and protect them from the doe jumping in and out of the box.\\n3-2. Give the doe peace and quiet.\\nThe mother needs a quiet, stress-free environment while pregnant. Don't lift her up unless you absolutely have to. Unnecessary lifting can damage the litter. If you do lift her, don't lift her by her stomach.\\n3-3. Expect the mother to give birth 28-33 days after breeding.\\nThe mother will start nesting around days 25-27, and by day 32-33, she will give birth. Leave her to it if you do catch her giving birth, though chances are all will be done and cleaned up long before you are awake. Babies tend to be born before dawn.\\nListen for cheeping. Kits sound like baby birds, and hearing them is one way to tell if the mother has given birth. You can also tell by seeing movement in the nest, or if the doe has a little blood on her nose.\\nThe doe will clean the hutch to ensure no predators smell the blood or other scents and investigate.\\nInspect the litter after they are born. Remove any dead kits. Do this daily to check for dead kits.\\nIf you have bred multiple does at one time, you can foster kits with other mothers if one has too many and another has too few kits, just make sure to mark the fostered kits with either nail polish on their toe or permanent marker in their right ear to be able to tell them apart from the foster mother's kits.\\n3-4. Seek veterinary care.\\nYou may want to keep your pregnant doe under veterinary care while she is pregnant. Your vet can assess the doe's health and the state of the pregnancy.\\nThere can be complications with any pregnancy. Keep an eye on you pregnant rabbit and take her to the vet if she has not given birth by 32 days. If the pregnancy goes to long it could result in a dead litter.\\n4. Taking Care of the Doe and Litter After Birth\\n4-1. Feed the doe more.\\nOnce the kits are born, give her as much dry food as she likes, as feeding kits will drain her. Don't stop with her vegetables, but don't increase them. If you increased the food during the last week of pregnancy, don't increase again until 3-4 days after giving birth. Stop completely if her droppings become loose.\\n4-2. Know how to treat the mother.\\nIf the doe is happy for you to stroke her and is acting normally, and you have a very good relationship with her, it might be a good idea to let her out for a little exercise. You should let her out for about an hour if she is used to it. This will give you a chance to inspect the nest and remove any dead kits.\\nBe careful if you attempt to go near the nest if the doe doesn't trust you or gets upset.\\nSome people say the doe will abandon the kits if you touch them, but others claim you can handle the babies without the mother being upset.\\n4-3. Check the temperature of the nest.\\nThe temperature of the nest box should be around 100 degrees during week 1. If the nest is good and the cage temperature is 60-75 degrees, it will be fine. If the nest is too cold, the kits can freeze.\\n4-4. Check on the kits daily.\\nYou want to check the kits during the day and night. Check them while they are feeding so you can make sure they are feeding normally. If they are not, you may need to give them supplementary feed. You also want to make sure they are eating well and gaining weight at the proper intervals.\\nChecking them multiple times daily can also help you catch any kits that have wandered out. If they are left unattended outside the nesting box, they can freeze and die.\\n4-5. Clean the hutch and box.\\nPoor conditions can cause kits to die. You want to make sure the nesting box isn't overrun with urine and feces, and you want to make sure the hutch and outdoor run is clean and hygienic. Sometimes mothers can defecate a lot, which may attract flies. These flies can cause infections in young kits.\\nChange the nest material a week after the litter is born. Keep an eye on the litter the days after changing the hay. Kits have a tendency to leave the nest box after changing the hay, and if it is cold, they can freeze. Continue changing the hay every few days. Remove the box after 3 weeks.\\nReplace the paper when used as needed.\\n4-6. Keep the doe's routine normal.\\nLet your doe out during the day, but keep in mind that she will have lost hair on her stomach and chest, and putting her on wet grass or out in the cold can be unwise.\\n4-7. Wean the babies at 6-8 weeks.\\nRemove the doe from the litter at 7 weeks. Put out food so that the kits can feed freely, ensuring that they get enough feed. At 8 weeks, move the kits into individual cages or in pairs. You can also move all the does to one cage and the bucks to another.\\nThe period of weaning can be stressful for the mother and kits. Make sure that they are all have enough water and food. You can also add probiotics to the water, to help with the digestive health of the rabbits.\\nTips\\nFind out if you need a license to breed and sell rabbits in your area.[33]\\nX\\nResearch source\\nTry to get close to the female before breeding her. The better your relationship, the more interaction you can have with the kits.\\nIf your rabbit has had something wrong with it in the past, ask a vet if it is okay to breed. Otherwise, the rabbit might still have a problem that can spread to the kits.\\nWarnings\\nA lot of first time mothers will have stillbirth litters; be prepared for dead kits.\\nIf the doe is in labor for awhile but no baby shows, or if she is struggling, call your vet. Don't move her unless on the instruction of a vet, as she may just be taking her time. Also contact the vet if the doe continues bleeding.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Rabbits are known for their quick and effective breeding in the wild. Because they are a prey species, it is important for them to have a lot of offspring in order for the species to survive. However, breeding rabbits at home can be a lot of work and may not be for everybody. If you are simply looking for a pet, it might not be a good idea to breed rabbits yourself. However, if you are looking to breed rabbits for food or attempting to reproduce a specialty breed, you will need to have a good breeding pair, prepare for success (or failure), and understand how much work you have ahead of you.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Preparing to Breed Rabbits\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Decide why you want to breed rabbits.\", \"描述\": \"Breeding rabbits is a huge responsibility that takes time, commitment, and patience. Before you begin breeding rabbits, decide why you want to do this. Are you planning on selling them? Do you want them as pets? Are you breeding them for meat? Decide if this is something you truly want to commit to doing. If you don't have the time, think you will get tired of it, or eventually want to send the rabbits to a shelter, rethink your plans.\\nRabbits are the third most common animal in shelters, after dogs and cats. Other rabbits get released into the wild, where they die from predators, lack of care, or starvation.\\nOnly a small percentage of rabbits at pet stores find safe, loving owners. They may be sold to inexperienced owners who may accidentally kill them.\\nBreeding rabbits won't turn a significant profit. Plus, there isn't a high demand for rabbits, especially as pets, because there are already so many pet rabbits trying to be sold.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Research available rabbit breeds.\", \"描述\": \"There are a wide variety of rabbit breeds available to home breeders. Before you choose a rabbit just because it is cute, be sure that it will fulfill your needs. Here is some basic information about several common rabbit breeds (but this list is by no means exhaustive):\\nAmerican: The American rabbit breed is a large-sized breed that is a good meat and fur breed. It is typically 9 - 12 pounds, a hardy breed, and they produce large litters.\\nAngora: There are several types of angora rabbits, including English, French, Giant, and Satin. These rabbits are typically bred for their wool. The wool is hand spun into yarn, which is knitted into light-weight and soft garments. Because of the nature of angora coats, this breed needs a lot of grooming, usually once or twice a week.\\nFlemish Giant: Flemish giant rabbits are the largest breed of rabbits. They can weigh up to 22 pounds. They come in seven colors, from black through white. Flemish giants were originally bred for meat and fur, but are now largely bred for show or as pets, as they are expensive to feed and have a very pleasant docile nature.\\nHimalayan: The Himalayan rabbit is a small, white breed that is used in laboratories and bred for show. Due to its small size, it is relatively cheap to feed and raise.\\nChinchilla: The chinchilla rabbit breeds are typically bred for their fur but also make excellent pets. They are medium sized, from 9 to 12 pounds, and have docile and curious personalities. Above all, however, their fur is their winning feature, as it is exceedingly soft and enjoyable to pet.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Choose the right rabbits to breed.\", \"描述\": \"The breed you choose might depend on availability, price, and preference. What you plan on doing with the rabbits also determines which breeds you choose. Some people want to sell and show the rabbits, while others want to keep them as pets, and others breed for meat.\\nIf you want to sell or show the rabbits, make sure to mate rabbits of the same breed. If you are planning to sell the rabbits, mixed breeds have little value. Mixing the breeds when you mate the rabbits also lessens the quality of the stock. A rabbit can't be considered pedigree if there is mixed-breed blood.\\nIf you want the rabbits for meat or genetic experimentation, you can mix the breeds of rabbits.\\nNever breed full siblings. You can breed half siblings, father-daughters, mother-sons, cousins, and so on. Unless you have a lot of knowledge about genetics and inbreeding, try not to breed pairs that are too closely related.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Breed your rabbits at the proper age.\", \"描述\": \"You want to start breeding does (female rabbits) when they are reaching maturity. For small-medium breeds, they can be bred at 6-7 months old. Larger breeds can be bred at 8-9 months. Bucks (male rabbits) are usually ready around 6 months old if a small breed, 7 months if medium, and 9 months for a large breed.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Ensure that you will have homes for the kits (babies) before you breed.\", \"描述\": \"Check that you will have spare hutches for when the kits are weaned, and that you will be able to afford the costs of breeding. Decide what you are going to do with the kits when they have been weaned.\\nMale and female kits must be separated when they are 8 weeks old. By 10 weeks old for bucks and 3-4 months old for does, rabbits need their own private cage. You must have enough cages for these animals in case you don't sell them.\\nIf you overcrowd young kits, they could fight and injure each other, or live in poor conditions that will affect their health.\\nYou also should have a large, safe enclosed garden for the rabbits.\\nIf you plan on selling the rabbits, try to talk to friends, other breeders, or advertise so that you can line up potential customers ahead of time.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Mating the Rabbits\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Breed from healthy, happy rabbits only.\", \"描述\": \"The physical condition of your rabbits when mating them is extremely important. Take your rabbits to a veterinarian before breeding them, just to make sure they are in tip top shape.\\nRabbits should not be underweight or overweight because this affects the success of the breeding. You should monitor what you feed the rabbits and make sure you provide the best nutrition so they are healthy.\\nCheck the cage of both the buck and doe for any evidence of diarrhea or loose stools. Check the genitals on both rabbits for any signs of disease of infection, such as extreme redness, discharge, sores, or scabs. These conditions need to be treated before breeding the rabbits.\\nIf your rabbit is aggressive or unhealthy, don't breed it. Breeding aggressive rabbits is not recommended.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Put the doe in the buck's hutch.\", \"描述\": \"A female's cage will smell like her, so the buck may get distracted by the unfamiliar smells and try to mark the territory. They may also fight. Always take the female to the male.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Leave the breeding pair together for half an hour.\", \"描述\": \"You want to give the rabbits time to mate, preferably 2-3 times. Having them mate multiple times can help with the litter size and the success of the breeding.\\nSome people breed them again after an hour or later the same day to ensure a mating instead of letting them breed 3 times in a single session.\\nIf the female is anxious, aggressive, or trying to get away from the male, separate them immediately.\\nYou may want to check the doe's vent to make sure that the breeding didn't misfire. If you find the doe's back or tail wet, the breeding was not successful. Leave the rabbits in the cage and let them breed again.\\nIt is not ideal for bucks and does to be left together for long periods of time. Although they may get along well, they may also fight if the doe becomes annoyed with the buck. Does have been known to castrate bucks. Contrary to popular belief, however, there is no danger of a doe becoming pregnant with two litters at once (unlike hares, which CAN carry two pregnancies, but the embryos are stored until she gives birth).\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Feel the abdomen of the female to determine if it is pregnant.\", \"描述\": \"Palpation is the best way of telling if a doe is pregnant or not. This is the method of using your hands to examine her body by feeling her abdomen to see if there are any babies inside. If she is pregnant, you will feel grape-sized embryos. For beginners, this method is most easily done 10-14 days after breeding.\\nPregnancy lasts approximately 28-33 days depending on the breed. Dead litters are usually delivered after day 34, but does have been known to give birth to live kits up to day 40.\\nIf the doe is not pregnant, you can breed her again immediately.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Taking Care of the Pregnant Doe\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Provide plenty of extra hay and bedding.\", \"描述\": \"Around day 25, a nesting box should be put in the doe's cage. This is for the doe to build a nest with. The nesting box should have soft straw or hay. Leave extra material around for her so she can make her nest. She will also pluck her chest and stomach hair to fill the nest.\\nThe nesting box should be 18\\\" x 10\\\" x 10\\\". Cut the front into a V-shape or another opening that is 6\\\" high for the doe to get in and out of. Make sure there is a small wire mesh bottom to allow urine and moisture to drain. Also place paper underneath to soak up the urine.\\nMake a hole in the hay at the back of the box to encourage the doe to make her nest back there. This can help protect the kits from the elements and protect them from the doe jumping in and out of the box.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Give the doe peace and quiet.\", \"描述\": \"The mother needs a quiet, stress-free environment while pregnant. Don't lift her up unless you absolutely have to. Unnecessary lifting can damage the litter. If you do lift her, don't lift her by her stomach.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Expect the mother to give birth 28-33 days after breeding.\", \"描述\": \"The mother will start nesting around days 25-27, and by day 32-33, she will give birth. Leave her to it if you do catch her giving birth, though chances are all will be done and cleaned up long before you are awake. Babies tend to be born before dawn.\\nListen for cheeping. Kits sound like baby birds, and hearing them is one way to tell if the mother has given birth. You can also tell by seeing movement in the nest, or if the doe has a little blood on her nose.\\nThe doe will clean the hutch to ensure no predators smell the blood or other scents and investigate.\\nInspect the litter after they are born. Remove any dead kits. Do this daily to check for dead kits.\\nIf you have bred multiple does at one time, you can foster kits with other mothers if one has too many and another has too few kits, just make sure to mark the fostered kits with either nail polish on their toe or permanent marker in their right ear to be able to tell them apart from the foster mother's kits.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Seek veterinary care.\", \"描述\": \"You may want to keep your pregnant doe under veterinary care while she is pregnant. Your vet can assess the doe's health and the state of the pregnancy.\\nThere can be complications with any pregnancy. Keep an eye on you pregnant rabbit and take her to the vet if she has not given birth by 32 days. If the pregnancy goes to long it could result in a dead litter.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Taking Care of the Doe and Litter After Birth\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Feed the doe more.\", \"描述\": \"Once the kits are born, give her as much dry food as she likes, as feeding kits will drain her. Don't stop with her vegetables, but don't increase them. If you increased the food during the last week of pregnancy, don't increase again until 3-4 days after giving birth. Stop completely if her droppings become loose.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Know how to treat the mother.\", \"描述\": \"If the doe is happy for you to stroke her and is acting normally, and you have a very good relationship with her, it might be a good idea to let her out for a little exercise. You should let her out for about an hour if she is used to it. This will give you a chance to inspect the nest and remove any dead kits.\\nBe careful if you attempt to go near the nest if the doe doesn't trust you or gets upset.\\nSome people say the doe will abandon the kits if you touch them, but others claim you can handle the babies without the mother being upset.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Check the temperature of the nest.\", \"描述\": \"The temperature of the nest box should be around 100 degrees during week 1. If the nest is good and the cage temperature is 60-75 degrees, it will be fine. If the nest is too cold, the kits can freeze.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Check on the kits daily.\", \"描述\": \"You want to check the kits during the day and night. Check them while they are feeding so you can make sure they are feeding normally. If they are not, you may need to give them supplementary feed. You also want to make sure they are eating well and gaining weight at the proper intervals.\\nChecking them multiple times daily can also help you catch any kits that have wandered out. If they are left unattended outside the nesting box, they can freeze and die.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Clean the hutch and box.\", \"描述\": \"Poor conditions can cause kits to die. You want to make sure the nesting box isn't overrun with urine and feces, and you want to make sure the hutch and outdoor run is clean and hygienic. Sometimes mothers can defecate a lot, which may attract flies. These flies can cause infections in young kits.\\nChange the nest material a week after the litter is born. Keep an eye on the litter the days after changing the hay. Kits have a tendency to leave the nest box after changing the hay, and if it is cold, they can freeze. Continue changing the hay every few days. Remove the box after 3 weeks.\\nReplace the paper when used as needed.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Keep the doe's routine normal.\", \"描述\": \"Let your doe out during the day, but keep in mind that she will have lost hair on her stomach and chest, and putting her on wet grass or out in the cold can be unwise.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Wean the babies at 6-8 weeks.\", \"描述\": \"Remove the doe from the litter at 7 weeks. Put out food so that the kits can feed freely, ensuring that they get enough feed. At 8 weeks, move the kits into individual cages or in pairs. You can also move all the does to one cage and the bucks to another.\\nThe period of weaning can be stressful for the mother and kits. Make sure that they are all have enough water and food. You can also add probiotics to the water, to help with the digestive health of the rabbits.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Find out if you need a license to breed and sell rabbits in your area.[33]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\", \"Try to get close to the female before breeding her. The better your relationship, the more interaction you can have with the kits.\\n\", \"If your rabbit has had something wrong with it in the past, ask a vet if it is okay to breed. Otherwise, the rabbit might still have a problem that can spread to the kits.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"A lot of first time mothers will have stillbirth litters; be prepared for dead kits.\\n\", \"If the doe is in labor for awhile but no baby shows, or if she is struggling, call your vet. Don't move her unless on the instruction of a vet, as she may just be taking her time. Also contact the vet if the doe continues bleeding.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
6,950 |
How to Breed Rare Dragons on Dragonvale
|
1. Breeding Dragons
1-1. Understand the breeding process.
In order to breed dragons, you will need to have unlocked the Breeding Island or Breeding Cave. This is where you can send two dragons to breed and produce an egg. The egg will need to incubate for a certain amount of time before it hatches, depending on the breed the egg contains.
1-2. Select two dragons to breed.
When you select two dragons to breed, the game will calculate what dragon you receive based on certain odds. Generally, there are three types of results you can expect from a breeding: Common, Rare, and Epic. The one you get is purely chance-based, and Rares and Epics have very low percentages.
1-3. Breed lesser dragons to get the best dragons.
The rarest dragons are bred from combinations of previous, lesser dragons. You will need to go through several breeding processes before you have the right dragons to breed the super rare ones.
1-4. Wait for the egg to hatch.
The rarest dragons can take a very long time to hatch, but once you see that long incubation time you'll know that you have something good on your hands.
2. Breeding Opposite Element Dragons
Breed dragons of opposite elements.
These are the few dragons that can result from breeding opposite elements.
Opposite Element Dragons
Desired Dragon
Parent #1
Parent #2
Time
Blue Fire
Fire Dragon
Cold Hybrid
12 hr
Current
Water Dragon
Lightning Hybrid
16 hr
Dodo
Earth Dragon
Air Hybrid
16 hr
Ironwood
Plant Dragon
Metal Hybrid
12 hr
Malachite
Metal Dragon
Plant Hybrid
12 hr
Plasma
Lightning Dragon
Water Hybrid
16 hr
Frostfire
Cold Dragon
Fire Hybrid
12 hr
Sandstorm
Air Dragon
Earth Hybrid
2 hr
3. Breeding Treasure Dragons
Breed Treasure Dragons.
These dragons are worth lots of money if they are sold.
Treasure Dragons
Desired Dragon
Parent #1
Parent #2
Time
Bronze
Earth Hybrid
Metal Hybrid
46 hr
Silver
Cold Hybrid
Metal Hybrid
47 hr
Gold
Fire Hybrid
Metal Hybrid
48 hr
Platinum
Water Hybrid
Metal Hybrid
49 hr
Electrum
Lightning Hybrid
Metal Hybrid
47.5 hr
4. Breeding Epic Dragons
Breed Epic Dragons.
These are incredibly rare dragons, and may take multiple attempts to obtain.
Epic Dragons
Desired Dragon
Parent #1
Parent #2
Time
Cyclops
Metal Hybrid
Water Hybrid
33 hr
Double Rainbow*
Opposite Element Dragon
Opposite Element Dragon
60 hr
Moon**
Cold Hybrid
Lightning Hybrid
48 hr
Sun**
Cold Hybrid
Lightning Hybrid
48 hr
Ouroboros
Magnetic Dragon
Water Hybrid
26 hr
Seasonal***
Air/Fire Dragon
Plant Dragon
48 hr
* The two hybrids should contain a total of four different elements (e.g. Glacier + Firefly). You may also get a regular Rainbow Dragon.
** Crystal Dragon + Blue Fire Dragon gives the most success. For a Moon Dragon, breed at night. For a Sun Dragon, breed during the day.
*** The two dragons should combine for Air, Fire, and Plant elements (e.g. Blazing Dragon + Plant Dragon).
5. Breeding Limited Dragons
Breed limited event dragons.
These dragons can only be bred during specific times, and some may no longer be available. If the dragon is available to purchase, it is available to be bred. Sometimes dragons from past events are available during special events.
Limited Dragons
Desired Dragon
Parent #1
Parent #2
Time
Availability
Apocalypse
Plant/Lightning
Metal/Cold
20 hr
Dec. 2012
Bearded
Mountain
Metal Hybrid
15 hr
Father's Day
Blue Moon
Lightning
Cold
30 hr
Varies*
Bone
Earth
Fire
10 hr
Halloween
Bouquet
Flower
Water
9 hr
Mother's Day
Butterfly
Air
Firefly
12 hr
Late Spring
Century
Cold/Earth
Water
10 hr
Feb 2013
Clover
Plant
Moss
7 hr
St. Paddy's Day
Cotton
Eart/Fire
Lightning/Plant
24 hr
Sep. 2013
Equinox
Water
Blazing
24 hr
Spring/Fall Equinox
Firework
Fire
Air
6 hr
July 4th
Ghost
Cold
Earth
15.5 hr
Halloween
Gift
Cold/Fire
Plant
12 hr
Christmas
Leap Year
Hybrid
Hybrid
14.5 hr
Leap Years
Liberty
Copper
Air Hybrid
30 hr
July 4th
Love
Fire/Plant
Lightning
5 hr
Valentine's Day
Lunar Eclipse
Air/Cold
Earth
48 hr
Varies**
Mistletoe
Tree
Lichen
8 hr
December
Motley
Fire
Plant
12 hr
Mar. 2013
Panlong
Fire/Water
Air/Earth
36 hr
Chinese New Year
Paper
Cold/Plant
Fire/Earth
12 hr
Sep. 2012
Reindeer
Cold
Plant
5 hr
Christmas
Sakura
Tree
Flower
10 hr
Spring
Terradiem
Air/Earth
Water
24 hr
Varies
Zombie
Meteor
Pollen
20 hr
October
* Usually available during blue moons in your area. Keep an eye on the market.
** Available during a lunar eclipse in your area. Keep an eye on the market.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:58:39",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Breeding Dragons\\n1-1. Understand the breeding process.\\nIn order to breed dragons, you will need to have unlocked the Breeding Island or Breeding Cave. This is where you can send two dragons to breed and produce an egg. The egg will need to incubate for a certain amount of time before it hatches, depending on the breed the egg contains.\\n1-2. Select two dragons to breed.\\nWhen you select two dragons to breed, the game will calculate what dragon you receive based on certain odds. Generally, there are three types of results you can expect from a breeding: Common, Rare, and Epic. The one you get is purely chance-based, and Rares and Epics have very low percentages.\\n1-3. Breed lesser dragons to get the best dragons.\\nThe rarest dragons are bred from combinations of previous, lesser dragons. You will need to go through several breeding processes before you have the right dragons to breed the super rare ones.\\n1-4. Wait for the egg to hatch.\\nThe rarest dragons can take a very long time to hatch, but once you see that long incubation time you'll know that you have something good on your hands.\\n2. Breeding Opposite Element Dragons\\nBreed dragons of opposite elements.\\nThese are the few dragons that can result from breeding opposite elements.\\n\\nOpposite Element Dragons\\n\\n Desired Dragon \\nParent #1\\nParent #2\\n Time \\n\\nBlue Fire\\n\\n Fire Dragon \\n\\n Cold Hybrid \\n\\n 12 hr\\n\\n\\nCurrent\\n\\n Water Dragon \\n\\n Lightning Hybrid \\n\\n 16 hr\\n\\n\\nDodo\\n\\n Earth Dragon \\n\\n Air Hybrid \\n\\n 16 hr\\n\\n\\nIronwood\\n\\n Plant Dragon \\n\\n Metal Hybrid \\n\\n 12 hr\\n\\n\\nMalachite\\n\\n Metal Dragon \\n\\n Plant Hybrid \\n\\n 12 hr\\n\\n\\nPlasma\\n\\n Lightning Dragon \\n\\n Water Hybrid \\n\\n 16 hr\\n\\n\\nFrostfire\\n\\n Cold Dragon \\n\\n Fire Hybrid \\n\\n 12 hr\\n\\n\\nSandstorm\\n\\n Air Dragon \\n\\n Earth Hybrid \\n\\n 2 hr\\n3. Breeding Treasure Dragons\\nBreed Treasure Dragons.\\nThese dragons are worth lots of money if they are sold.\\n\\nTreasure Dragons\\n\\n Desired Dragon \\nParent #1\\nParent #2\\nTime\\n\\nBronze\\n\\n Earth Hybrid \\n\\n Metal Hybrid \\n\\n 46 hr\\n\\n\\nSilver\\n\\n Cold Hybrid \\n\\n Metal Hybrid \\n\\n 47 hr\\n\\n\\nGold\\n\\n Fire Hybrid \\n\\n Metal Hybrid \\n\\n 48 hr\\n\\n\\nPlatinum\\n\\n Water Hybrid \\n\\n Metal Hybrid \\n\\n 49 hr\\n\\n\\nElectrum\\n\\n Lightning Hybrid \\n\\n Metal Hybrid \\n\\n 47.5 hr\\n4. Breeding Epic Dragons\\nBreed Epic Dragons.\\nThese are incredibly rare dragons, and may take multiple attempts to obtain.\\n\\nEpic Dragons\\n\\n Desired Dragon \\nParent #1\\nParent #2\\nTime\\n\\nCyclops\\n\\n Metal Hybrid \\n\\n Water Hybrid \\n\\n 33 hr\\n\\n\\nDouble Rainbow*\\n\\n Opposite Element Dragon \\n\\n Opposite Element Dragon \\n\\n 60 hr \\n\\n\\nMoon**\\n\\n Cold Hybrid \\n\\n Lightning Hybrid \\n\\n 48 hr\\n\\n\\nSun**\\n\\n Cold Hybrid \\n\\n Lightning Hybrid \\n\\n 48 hr\\n\\n\\nOuroboros\\n\\n Magnetic Dragon \\n\\n Water Hybrid \\n\\n 26 hr\\n\\n\\nSeasonal***\\n\\n Air/Fire Dragon \\n\\n Plant Dragon \\n\\n 48 hr\\n\\n\\n* The two hybrids should contain a total of four different elements (e.g. Glacier + Firefly). You may also get a regular Rainbow Dragon.\\n** Crystal Dragon + Blue Fire Dragon gives the most success. For a Moon Dragon, breed at night. For a Sun Dragon, breed during the day.\\n*** The two dragons should combine for Air, Fire, and Plant elements (e.g. Blazing Dragon + Plant Dragon).\\n5. Breeding Limited Dragons\\nBreed limited event dragons.\\nThese dragons can only be bred during specific times, and some may no longer be available. If the dragon is available to purchase, it is available to be bred. Sometimes dragons from past events are available during special events.\\n\\n\\nLimited Dragons\\n\\n Desired Dragon \\nParent #1\\nParent #2\\nTime\\nAvailability\\n\\nApocalypse\\n\\n Plant/Lightning \\n\\n Metal/Cold \\n\\n 20 hr \\n\\n Dec. 2012\\n\\n\\nBearded\\n\\n Mountain \\n\\n Metal Hybrid \\n\\n 15 hr \\n\\n Father's Day\\n\\n\\nBlue Moon\\n\\n Lightning \\n\\n Cold \\n\\n 30 hr \\n\\n Varies*\\n\\n\\nBone\\n\\n Earth \\n\\n Fire \\n\\n 10 hr \\n\\n Halloween\\n\\n\\nBouquet\\n\\n Flower \\n\\n Water \\n\\n 9 hr \\n\\n Mother's Day\\n\\n\\nButterfly\\n\\n Air \\n\\n Firefly \\n\\n 12 hr \\n\\n Late Spring\\n\\n\\nCentury\\n\\n Cold/Earth \\n\\n Water \\n\\n 10 hr \\n\\n Feb 2013\\n\\n\\nClover\\n\\n Plant \\n\\n Moss \\n\\n 7 hr \\n\\n St. Paddy's Day\\n\\n\\nCotton\\n\\n Eart/Fire \\n\\n Lightning/Plant \\n\\n 24 hr \\n\\n Sep. 2013\\n\\n\\nEquinox\\n\\n Water \\n\\n Blazing \\n\\n 24 hr \\n\\n Spring/Fall Equinox \\n\\n\\nFirework\\n\\n Fire \\n\\n Air \\n\\n 6 hr \\n\\n July 4th\\n\\n\\nGhost\\n\\n Cold \\n\\n Earth \\n\\n 15.5 hr \\n\\n Halloween\\n\\n\\nGift\\n\\n Cold/Fire \\n\\n Plant \\n\\n 12 hr \\n\\n Christmas\\n\\n\\nLeap Year\\n\\n Hybrid \\n\\n Hybrid \\n\\n 14.5 hr \\n\\n Leap Years\\n\\n\\nLiberty\\n\\n Copper \\n\\n Air Hybrid \\n\\n 30 hr \\n\\n July 4th\\n\\n\\nLove\\n\\n Fire/Plant \\n\\n Lightning \\n\\n 5 hr \\n\\n Valentine's Day\\n\\n\\nLunar Eclipse\\n\\n Air/Cold \\n\\n Earth \\n\\n 48 hr \\n\\n Varies**\\n\\n\\nMistletoe\\n\\n Tree \\n\\n Lichen \\n\\n 8 hr \\n\\n December\\n\\n\\nMotley\\n\\n Fire \\n\\n Plant \\n\\n 12 hr \\n\\n Mar. 2013\\n\\n\\nPanlong\\n\\n Fire/Water \\n\\n Air/Earth \\n\\n 36 hr \\n\\n Chinese New Year\\n\\n\\nPaper\\n\\n Cold/Plant \\n\\n Fire/Earth \\n\\n 12 hr \\n\\n Sep. 2012\\n\\n\\nReindeer\\n\\n Cold \\n\\n Plant \\n\\n 5 hr \\n\\n Christmas\\n\\n\\nSakura\\n\\n Tree \\n\\n Flower \\n\\n 10 hr \\n\\n Spring\\n\\n\\nTerradiem\\n\\n Air/Earth \\n\\n Water \\n\\n 24 hr \\n\\n Varies\\n\\n\\nZombie\\n\\n Meteor \\n\\n Pollen \\n\\n 20 hr \\n\\n October\\n\\n\\n* Usually available during blue moons in your area. Keep an eye on the market.\\n** Available during a lunar eclipse in your area. Keep an eye on the market.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Dragonvale is all about breeding dragons to obtain new and unique monsters. There are lots of dragons that require special combinations and a fair amount of luck to obtain. These are referred to as \\\"Rare Dragons\\\", and there are several varieties of them.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Breeding Dragons\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Understand the breeding process.\", \"描述\": \"In order to breed dragons, you will need to have unlocked the Breeding Island or Breeding Cave. This is where you can send two dragons to breed and produce an egg. The egg will need to incubate for a certain amount of time before it hatches, depending on the breed the egg contains.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Select two dragons to breed.\", \"描述\": \"When you select two dragons to breed, the game will calculate what dragon you receive based on certain odds. Generally, there are three types of results you can expect from a breeding: Common, Rare, and Epic. The one you get is purely chance-based, and Rares and Epics have very low percentages.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Breed lesser dragons to get the best dragons.\", \"描述\": \"The rarest dragons are bred from combinations of previous, lesser dragons. You will need to go through several breeding processes before you have the right dragons to breed the super rare ones.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Wait for the egg to hatch.\", \"描述\": \"The rarest dragons can take a very long time to hatch, but once you see that long incubation time you'll know that you have something good on your hands.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Breeding Opposite Element Dragons\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Breed dragons of opposite elements.\", \"描述\": \"These are the few dragons that can result from breeding opposite elements.\\n\\nOpposite Element Dragons\\n\\n Desired Dragon \\nParent #1\\nParent #2\\n Time \\n\\nBlue Fire\\n\\n Fire Dragon \\n\\n Cold Hybrid \\n\\n 12 hr\\n\\n\\nCurrent\\n\\n Water Dragon \\n\\n Lightning Hybrid \\n\\n 16 hr\\n\\n\\nDodo\\n\\n Earth Dragon \\n\\n Air Hybrid \\n\\n 16 hr\\n\\n\\nIronwood\\n\\n Plant Dragon \\n\\n Metal Hybrid \\n\\n 12 hr\\n\\n\\nMalachite\\n\\n Metal Dragon \\n\\n Plant Hybrid \\n\\n 12 hr\\n\\n\\nPlasma\\n\\n Lightning Dragon \\n\\n Water Hybrid \\n\\n 16 hr\\n\\n\\nFrostfire\\n\\n Cold Dragon \\n\\n Fire Hybrid \\n\\n 12 hr\\n\\n\\nSandstorm\\n\\n Air Dragon \\n\\n Earth Hybrid \\n\\n 2 hr\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Breeding Treasure Dragons\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Breed Treasure Dragons.\", \"描述\": \"These dragons are worth lots of money if they are sold.\\n\\nTreasure Dragons\\n\\n Desired Dragon \\nParent #1\\nParent #2\\nTime\\n\\nBronze\\n\\n Earth Hybrid \\n\\n Metal Hybrid \\n\\n 46 hr\\n\\n\\nSilver\\n\\n Cold Hybrid \\n\\n Metal Hybrid \\n\\n 47 hr\\n\\n\\nGold\\n\\n Fire Hybrid \\n\\n Metal Hybrid \\n\\n 48 hr\\n\\n\\nPlatinum\\n\\n Water Hybrid \\n\\n Metal Hybrid \\n\\n 49 hr\\n\\n\\nElectrum\\n\\n Lightning Hybrid \\n\\n Metal Hybrid \\n\\n 47.5 hr\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Breeding Epic Dragons\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Breed Epic Dragons.\", \"描述\": \"These are incredibly rare dragons, and may take multiple attempts to obtain.\\n\\nEpic Dragons\\n\\n Desired Dragon \\nParent #1\\nParent #2\\nTime\\n\\nCyclops\\n\\n Metal Hybrid \\n\\n Water Hybrid \\n\\n 33 hr\\n\\n\\nDouble Rainbow*\\n\\n Opposite Element Dragon \\n\\n Opposite Element Dragon \\n\\n 60 hr \\n\\n\\nMoon**\\n\\n Cold Hybrid \\n\\n Lightning Hybrid \\n\\n 48 hr\\n\\n\\nSun**\\n\\n Cold Hybrid \\n\\n Lightning Hybrid \\n\\n 48 hr\\n\\n\\nOuroboros\\n\\n Magnetic Dragon \\n\\n Water Hybrid \\n\\n 26 hr\\n\\n\\nSeasonal***\\n\\n Air/Fire Dragon \\n\\n Plant Dragon \\n\\n 48 hr\\n\\n\\n* The two hybrids should contain a total of four different elements (e.g. Glacier + Firefly). You may also get a regular Rainbow Dragon.\\n** Crystal Dragon + Blue Fire Dragon gives the most success. For a Moon Dragon, breed at night. For a Sun Dragon, breed during the day.\\n*** The two dragons should combine for Air, Fire, and Plant elements (e.g. Blazing Dragon + Plant Dragon).\"}]}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Breeding Limited Dragons\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Breed limited event dragons.\", \"描述\": \"These dragons can only be bred during specific times, and some may no longer be available. If the dragon is available to purchase, it is available to be bred. Sometimes dragons from past events are available during special events.\\n\\n\\nLimited Dragons\\n\\n Desired Dragon \\nParent #1\\nParent #2\\nTime\\nAvailability\\n\\nApocalypse\\n\\n Plant/Lightning \\n\\n Metal/Cold \\n\\n 20 hr \\n\\n Dec. 2012\\n\\n\\nBearded\\n\\n Mountain \\n\\n Metal Hybrid \\n\\n 15 hr \\n\\n Father's Day\\n\\n\\nBlue Moon\\n\\n Lightning \\n\\n Cold \\n\\n 30 hr \\n\\n Varies*\\n\\n\\nBone\\n\\n Earth \\n\\n Fire \\n\\n 10 hr \\n\\n Halloween\\n\\n\\nBouquet\\n\\n Flower \\n\\n Water \\n\\n 9 hr \\n\\n Mother's Day\\n\\n\\nButterfly\\n\\n Air \\n\\n Firefly \\n\\n 12 hr \\n\\n Late Spring\\n\\n\\nCentury\\n\\n Cold/Earth \\n\\n Water \\n\\n 10 hr \\n\\n Feb 2013\\n\\n\\nClover\\n\\n Plant \\n\\n Moss \\n\\n 7 hr \\n\\n St. Paddy's Day\\n\\n\\nCotton\\n\\n Eart/Fire \\n\\n Lightning/Plant \\n\\n 24 hr \\n\\n Sep. 2013\\n\\n\\nEquinox\\n\\n Water \\n\\n Blazing \\n\\n 24 hr \\n\\n Spring/Fall Equinox \\n\\n\\nFirework\\n\\n Fire \\n\\n Air \\n\\n 6 hr \\n\\n July 4th\\n\\n\\nGhost\\n\\n Cold \\n\\n Earth \\n\\n 15.5 hr \\n\\n Halloween\\n\\n\\nGift\\n\\n Cold/Fire \\n\\n Plant \\n\\n 12 hr \\n\\n Christmas\\n\\n\\nLeap Year\\n\\n Hybrid \\n\\n Hybrid \\n\\n 14.5 hr \\n\\n Leap Years\\n\\n\\nLiberty\\n\\n Copper \\n\\n Air Hybrid \\n\\n 30 hr \\n\\n July 4th\\n\\n\\nLove\\n\\n Fire/Plant \\n\\n Lightning \\n\\n 5 hr \\n\\n Valentine's Day\\n\\n\\nLunar Eclipse\\n\\n Air/Cold \\n\\n Earth \\n\\n 48 hr \\n\\n Varies**\\n\\n\\nMistletoe\\n\\n Tree \\n\\n Lichen \\n\\n 8 hr \\n\\n December\\n\\n\\nMotley\\n\\n Fire \\n\\n Plant \\n\\n 12 hr \\n\\n Mar. 2013\\n\\n\\nPanlong\\n\\n Fire/Water \\n\\n Air/Earth \\n\\n 36 hr \\n\\n Chinese New Year\\n\\n\\nPaper\\n\\n Cold/Plant \\n\\n Fire/Earth \\n\\n 12 hr \\n\\n Sep. 2012\\n\\n\\nReindeer\\n\\n Cold \\n\\n Plant \\n\\n 5 hr \\n\\n Christmas\\n\\n\\nSakura\\n\\n Tree \\n\\n Flower \\n\\n 10 hr \\n\\n Spring\\n\\n\\nTerradiem\\n\\n Air/Earth \\n\\n Water \\n\\n 24 hr \\n\\n Varies\\n\\n\\nZombie\\n\\n Meteor \\n\\n Pollen \\n\\n 20 hr \\n\\n October\\n\\n\\n* Usually available during blue moons in your area. Keep an eye on the market.\\n** Available during a lunar eclipse in your area. Keep an eye on the market.\"}]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
6,951 |
Red Cherry Shrimp: Tank Setup, Care & Breeding
|
1. Set up your tank.
You will need a 5 to 10 gallon or 20 to 40 litre tank for your shrimp.
You'll also need a heater (to keep temperature at 75F-80F or 24-27C during cool nights), gravel (dark will stress the shrimps less), and a bubble filter that is cycled.
To cycle a bubble filter in a new tank, put the new bubble filter in an old tank, turn it on, and wait for 4 weeks. RCS will not survive the cycling process and will die from high levels of ammonia or nitrites.
Do not use a power filter unless the whole intake is covered with pantyhose (or something with similar very small holes) and secured with a zip tie (otherwise shrimp may get sucked into the filter and pureed).
2. Buy a master test kit.
This is absolutely required for keeping shrimp.
It is impossible to determine the problem with a tank without a master test kit. You will need the following tests: ammonia, nitrite, nitrate. Get drop tests, not test strips. Test strips are expensive, and expire after about 6 months of being open. Drop kits are much cheaper per test and last longer.
3. Purchase 5-10 red cherry shrimp.
RCS cost $1.50 - $3 (US) each at a pet store.
They cost much less per shrimp via online on websites and forums, many people also offer free shipping like $20 or so for 20 or so shrimp, it is easy to get a good deal these days. Try to get a mix of clear (males can have some red as well) males and red females. If you get 10 shrimp, your chance of getting both males and females is pretty much guaranteed.
If someone wants to ship with a method that takes longer than 3 days, ask for pictures about how the shrimp are packaged, Cherry shrimp are VERY hard to kill and will most likely have no problem with a week in transit. Take into consideration the weather over the distance it will be shipped, ask for heat packs or ice packs in the shipping container to help counter ambient temperatures if that is a potential problem. Also request breather bags.
Do not buy RCS (or any fish or shrimp) that the pet store received in the last 3 or 4 days. Any deaths from the stress of shipping tend to occur during the 3-4 days after putting them in the store tanks, so buy after this period. Buy only shrimp that have been in the store tanks at least 4 days.
It is normal and desirable for the shipping bag containing shrimp to be filled with 1/3 to 1/2 water. This maximizes the trapped oxygen in the bag during shipping. This only applies loosely to the bags that are just normal plastic. If shipping with these bags, see if seller can use pure oxygen opposed to just air.
4. Fill your tank with water that you have added dechlorinator to.
Chlorine and chloramines will kill shrimp.
So, make sure you get a dechlorinator that neutralizes both.
5. Get the shrimp used to the water using these steps.
Put the bag into the water and clip it to the tank side using a binder clip.
Add 1/4 cup tank water to the bag (perhaps use 1 turkey baster full of water). Wait 15 minutes. Repeat 2 more times. (An alternative to this is to test the bag's water parameters and your tank's if it is similar, just acclimate them to the temperature and dump them into the tank, cherries are very hardy and hard to kill relative to other shrimp.)
6. Dump the shrimp in the tank.
The temperature and water parameters (like pH) should have equalized enough not to shock the shrimp.
7. Set your heater to about 80 °F (27 °C).
Use another thermometer to verify your heater is working accurately.
Check it daily when you feed them.
8. Feed the shrimp.
Good options include flake food, sinking pellets, or blanched squash or zucchini.
Shrimp eat anything a fish would. You do not even need small pieces of food as they will rip off a piece of flake and feed it to themselves. Some shrimp do not like algae tablets, some do. (Foods with copper compounds are not ok for RCS.)
If there is still food in the tank when you feed them, skip that feeding and check again later.
Feed very small amounts once per day, especially if you just start with 10 shrimp. A flake the size of your pinky fingernail should last 10 RCS about 2, perhaps 3 days. Do not overfeed as it will result in harmless worms like detritus or planaria. If this happens do a water change and if you have no RCS babies then do a gravel vac and start to feed less food or not as often.
To blanch zucchini, put one slice in a microwave safe bowl. Cover with about an inch or so or 3cm of water. Cook on high for 1 minute. Let cool for 20 minutes, then drop into tank. If the zucchini floats, weight it down with a zip tie, a piece of plastic, or a marble, but not metal.
9. Wait for the shrimp to breed.
If water temperature is warm enough and there is enough food, they will simply breed.
Female shrimp should get greenish or yellowish eggs under their tail within 30 days of you receiving them, if they don't already have eggs. Female shrimp get a yellowish "saddle-shaped" patch behind their head. These are eggs in their ovaries. The eggs should move to their tails in 7-10 days. Once the eggs are under their tails, the eggs will hatch in 3-4 weeks.
You will notice how the mom fans the eggs occasionally to prevent fungus from growing on them.
The eggs will hatch faster if the water is warmer.
You may wake up one day to find tiny clear shrimp on the plants, or on the bottom.
Baby RCS look just like the adults, but they are very small, about 2mm long, and clear. But their shape is the same as an adult RCS.
Shrimp will not eat their babies unless they are starving. Besides, the babies are quick to get away.
10. Maintain the tank.
A 10-gallon or 40 litre tank can safely hold 100-150 adult RCS.
Just make sure that you change 25% of the water each week without exception. Do not vacuum the bottom of the tank, baby shrimp get a lot of their daily food out of the "waste". However too much waste will cause a buildup of nitrates. High nitrates can kill shrimp.
Tips
The biggest mistake a new person can make is using too many chemicals. If your ammonia=0, nitrite=0, nitrate<50 ppm, and ph is 6.0-8.0, you should be fine. You should never use pH up or pH down, stress coat, or other chemicals. They will only compound your problems. The only chemical you need is a dechlorinator which neutralizes chlorine and chloramines.
Shrimps love a small piece of boiled carrot. It also improves their color. Do remove it within 24 hours or it will pollute the water.
Shrimp who are getting ready to molt will form a "u" shape. They will bend and try to touch their tail. If you are lucky will see them shed. It is very fast. They flick out of their old skin in the blink of an eye, leaving behind a perfect hollow replica of themselves.
Warnings
Cardinal tetras will harm RCS babies.
Do not remove any empty shells of molted shrimp. Many will consume this to get back valuable minerals.
Shrimp in general are sensitive to, and can be killed by chloramines, chlorine, ammonia, nitrites, and high nitrates. Make sure your water dechlorinator takes care of chlorine and chloramines.
Many fish will eat adult shrimp, as well as baby shrimp. Any type of catfish, predator fish, angelfish, oscars, clown loaches, or eels will eat shrimp. If you have lots of cover, more babies will survive. Java moss makes excellent cover and forage.
Uncoated heavy metals like zinc, lead (from plant weights) and elemental copper will kill shrimp, especially copper. If a tank has ever had elemental copper in it, you will have a hard time keeping shrimp alive. Copper sulfate in fish foods is safe as it is a copper compound in low amounts. The dangerous stuff is elemental copper (copper metal). The copper compound found in snail killing concoctions is toxic to shrimp and inverts because it is so concentrated.
Adult RCS are safe with guppies, mollies, platies, porkchop rasboras, or any fish too small to eat the shrimp.
Some copper compounds seem to be safe for shrimp. For example, tiny amounts of copper sulfate are commonly used as a preservative in almost all fish food. It is safe to feed shrimp the food with copper sulfate since it is not elemental copper.
Despite a persistent myth, an iodine supplement is not needed for freshwater crustaceans. There is no scientific support that freshwater shrimp use iodine in the water column. They get enough iodine from their food. Saltwater crustaceans MAY have a need for supplemental iodine.
If your tank isn't cycled well, you may be forced to perform water changes frequently. This can up the chance of you sucking up tiny shrimp babies.
Never keep betta with any kind of shrimps. They will eat the RCS.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:58:39",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Set up your tank.\\nYou will need a 5 to 10 gallon or 20 to 40 litre tank for your shrimp.\\nYou'll also need a heater (to keep temperature at 75F-80F or 24-27C during cool nights), gravel (dark will stress the shrimps less), and a bubble filter that is cycled.\\nTo cycle a bubble filter in a new tank, put the new bubble filter in an old tank, turn it on, and wait for 4 weeks. RCS will not survive the cycling process and will die from high levels of ammonia or nitrites.\\nDo not use a power filter unless the whole intake is covered with pantyhose (or something with similar very small holes) and secured with a zip tie (otherwise shrimp may get sucked into the filter and pureed).\\n2. Buy a master test kit.\\nThis is absolutely required for keeping shrimp.\\nIt is impossible to determine the problem with a tank without a master test kit. You will need the following tests: ammonia, nitrite, nitrate. Get drop tests, not test strips. Test strips are expensive, and expire after about 6 months of being open. Drop kits are much cheaper per test and last longer.\\n3. Purchase 5-10 red cherry shrimp.\\nRCS cost $1.50 - $3 (US) each at a pet store.\\nThey cost much less per shrimp via online on websites and forums, many people also offer free shipping like $20 or so for 20 or so shrimp, it is easy to get a good deal these days. Try to get a mix of clear (males can have some red as well) males and red females. If you get 10 shrimp, your chance of getting both males and females is pretty much guaranteed.\\nIf someone wants to ship with a method that takes longer than 3 days, ask for pictures about how the shrimp are packaged, Cherry shrimp are VERY hard to kill and will most likely have no problem with a week in transit. Take into consideration the weather over the distance it will be shipped, ask for heat packs or ice packs in the shipping container to help counter ambient temperatures if that is a potential problem. Also request breather bags.\\nDo not buy RCS (or any fish or shrimp) that the pet store received in the last 3 or 4 days. Any deaths from the stress of shipping tend to occur during the 3-4 days after putting them in the store tanks, so buy after this period. Buy only shrimp that have been in the store tanks at least 4 days.\\nIt is normal and desirable for the shipping bag containing shrimp to be filled with 1/3 to 1/2 water. This maximizes the trapped oxygen in the bag during shipping. This only applies loosely to the bags that are just normal plastic. If shipping with these bags, see if seller can use pure oxygen opposed to just air.\\n4. Fill your tank with water that you have added dechlorinator to.\\nChlorine and chloramines will kill shrimp.\\nSo, make sure you get a dechlorinator that neutralizes both.\\n5. Get the shrimp used to the water using these steps.\\nPut the bag into the water and clip it to the tank side using a binder clip.\\nAdd 1/4 cup tank water to the bag (perhaps use 1 turkey baster full of water). Wait 15 minutes. Repeat 2 more times. (An alternative to this is to test the bag's water parameters and your tank's if it is similar, just acclimate them to the temperature and dump them into the tank, cherries are very hardy and hard to kill relative to other shrimp.)\\n6. Dump the shrimp in the tank.\\nThe temperature and water parameters (like pH) should have equalized enough not to shock the shrimp.\\n\\n7. Set your heater to about 80 °F (27 °C).\\nUse another thermometer to verify your heater is working accurately.\\nCheck it daily when you feed them.\\n8. Feed the shrimp.\\nGood options include flake food, sinking pellets, or blanched squash or zucchini.\\nShrimp eat anything a fish would. You do not even need small pieces of food as they will rip off a piece of flake and feed it to themselves. Some shrimp do not like algae tablets, some do. (Foods with copper compounds are not ok for RCS.) \\nIf there is still food in the tank when you feed them, skip that feeding and check again later.\\nFeed very small amounts once per day, especially if you just start with 10 shrimp. A flake the size of your pinky fingernail should last 10 RCS about 2, perhaps 3 days. Do not overfeed as it will result in harmless worms like detritus or planaria. If this happens do a water change and if you have no RCS babies then do a gravel vac and start to feed less food or not as often.\\nTo blanch zucchini, put one slice in a microwave safe bowl. Cover with about an inch or so or 3cm of water. Cook on high for 1 minute. Let cool for 20 minutes, then drop into tank. If the zucchini floats, weight it down with a zip tie, a piece of plastic, or a marble, but not metal.\\n9. Wait for the shrimp to breed.\\nIf water temperature is warm enough and there is enough food, they will simply breed.\\nFemale shrimp should get greenish or yellowish eggs under their tail within 30 days of you receiving them, if they don't already have eggs. Female shrimp get a yellowish \\\"saddle-shaped\\\" patch behind their head. These are eggs in their ovaries. The eggs should move to their tails in 7-10 days. Once the eggs are under their tails, the eggs will hatch in 3-4 weeks.\\nYou will notice how the mom fans the eggs occasionally to prevent fungus from growing on them.\\nThe eggs will hatch faster if the water is warmer.\\nYou may wake up one day to find tiny clear shrimp on the plants, or on the bottom.\\nBaby RCS look just like the adults, but they are very small, about 2mm long, and clear. But their shape is the same as an adult RCS.\\nShrimp will not eat their babies unless they are starving. Besides, the babies are quick to get away.\\n10. Maintain the tank.\\nA 10-gallon or 40 litre tank can safely hold 100-150 adult RCS.\\nJust make sure that you change 25% of the water each week without exception. Do not vacuum the bottom of the tank, baby shrimp get a lot of their daily food out of the \\\"waste\\\". However too much waste will cause a buildup of nitrates. High nitrates can kill shrimp.\\nTips\\nThe biggest mistake a new person can make is using too many chemicals. If your ammonia=0, nitrite=0, nitrate<50 ppm, and ph is 6.0-8.0, you should be fine. You should never use pH up or pH down, stress coat, or other chemicals. They will only compound your problems. The only chemical you need is a dechlorinator which neutralizes chlorine and chloramines.\\nShrimps love a small piece of boiled carrot. It also improves their color. Do remove it within 24 hours or it will pollute the water.\\nShrimp who are getting ready to molt will form a \\\"u\\\" shape. They will bend and try to touch their tail. If you are lucky will see them shed. It is very fast. They flick out of their old skin in the blink of an eye, leaving behind a perfect hollow replica of themselves.\\nWarnings\\nCardinal tetras will harm RCS babies.\\nDo not remove any empty shells of molted shrimp. Many will consume this to get back valuable minerals.\\nShrimp in general are sensitive to, and can be killed by chloramines, chlorine, ammonia, nitrites, and high nitrates. Make sure your water dechlorinator takes care of chlorine and chloramines.\\nMany fish will eat adult shrimp, as well as baby shrimp. Any type of catfish, predator fish, angelfish, oscars, clown loaches, or eels will eat shrimp. If you have lots of cover, more babies will survive. Java moss makes excellent cover and forage.\\nUncoated heavy metals like zinc, lead (from plant weights) and elemental copper will kill shrimp, especially copper. If a tank has ever had elemental copper in it, you will have a hard time keeping shrimp alive. Copper sulfate in fish foods is safe as it is a copper compound in low amounts. The dangerous stuff is elemental copper (copper metal). The copper compound found in snail killing concoctions is toxic to shrimp and inverts because it is so concentrated.\\nAdult RCS are safe with guppies, mollies, platies, porkchop rasboras, or any fish too small to eat the shrimp.\\nSome copper compounds seem to be safe for shrimp. For example, tiny amounts of copper sulfate are commonly used as a preservative in almost all fish food. It is safe to feed shrimp the food with copper sulfate since it is not elemental copper.\\nDespite a persistent myth, an iodine supplement is not needed for freshwater crustaceans. There is no scientific support that freshwater shrimp use iodine in the water column. They get enough iodine from their food. Saltwater crustaceans MAY have a need for supplemental iodine.\\nIf your tank isn't cycled well, you may be forced to perform water changes frequently. This can up the chance of you sucking up tiny shrimp babies.\\nNever keep betta with any kind of shrimps. They will eat the RCS.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Hoping to set up a home aquarium? Red Cherry Shrimp (RCS) could be some great new friends to keep and breed at home. Although RCS can reach up to 1.5 inches (4cm) in length in adulthood, these low-maintenance critters don't need any special tanks, foods, dances, or shamans to breed. We'll walk you through everything you need to know, so you can start breeding your RCS in no time.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Set up your tank.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"You will need a 5 to 10 gallon or 20 to 40 litre tank for your shrimp.\", \"描述\": \"You'll also need a heater (to keep temperature at 75F-80F or 24-27C during cool nights), gravel (dark will stress the shrimps less), and a bubble filter that is cycled.\\nTo cycle a bubble filter in a new tank, put the new bubble filter in an old tank, turn it on, and wait for 4 weeks. RCS will not survive the cycling process and will die from high levels of ammonia or nitrites.\\nDo not use a power filter unless the whole intake is covered with pantyhose (or something with similar very small holes) and secured with a zip tie (otherwise shrimp may get sucked into the filter and pureed).\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Buy a master test kit.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"This is absolutely required for keeping shrimp.\", \"描述\": \"It is impossible to determine the problem with a tank without a master test kit. You will need the following tests: ammonia, nitrite, nitrate. Get drop tests, not test strips. Test strips are expensive, and expire after about 6 months of being open. Drop kits are much cheaper per test and last longer.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Purchase 5-10 red cherry shrimp.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"RCS cost $1.50 - $3 (US) each at a pet store.\", \"描述\": \"They cost much less per shrimp via online on websites and forums, many people also offer free shipping like $20 or so for 20 or so shrimp, it is easy to get a good deal these days. Try to get a mix of clear (males can have some red as well) males and red females. If you get 10 shrimp, your chance of getting both males and females is pretty much guaranteed.\\nIf someone wants to ship with a method that takes longer than 3 days, ask for pictures about how the shrimp are packaged, Cherry shrimp are VERY hard to kill and will most likely have no problem with a week in transit. Take into consideration the weather over the distance it will be shipped, ask for heat packs or ice packs in the shipping container to help counter ambient temperatures if that is a potential problem. Also request breather bags.\\nDo not buy RCS (or any fish or shrimp) that the pet store received in the last 3 or 4 days. Any deaths from the stress of shipping tend to occur during the 3-4 days after putting them in the store tanks, so buy after this period. Buy only shrimp that have been in the store tanks at least 4 days.\\nIt is normal and desirable for the shipping bag containing shrimp to be filled with 1/3 to 1/2 water. This maximizes the trapped oxygen in the bag during shipping. This only applies loosely to the bags that are just normal plastic. If shipping with these bags, see if seller can use pure oxygen opposed to just air.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Fill your tank with water that you have added dechlorinator to.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Chlorine and chloramines will kill shrimp.\", \"描述\": \"So, make sure you get a dechlorinator that neutralizes both.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Get the shrimp used to the water using these steps.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Put the bag into the water and clip it to the tank side using a binder clip.\", \"描述\": \"Add 1/4 cup tank water to the bag (perhaps use 1 turkey baster full of water). Wait 15 minutes. Repeat 2 more times. (An alternative to this is to test the bag's water parameters and your tank's if it is similar, just acclimate them to the temperature and dump them into the tank, cherries are very hardy and hard to kill relative to other shrimp.)\"}]}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Dump the shrimp in the tank.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"The temperature and water parameters (like pH) should have equalized enough not to shock the shrimp.\", \"描述\": \"\"}]}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Set your heater to about 80 °F (27 °C).\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Use another thermometer to verify your heater is working accurately.\", \"描述\": \"Check it daily when you feed them.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Feed the shrimp.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Good options include flake food, sinking pellets, or blanched squash or zucchini.\", \"描述\": \"Shrimp eat anything a fish would. You do not even need small pieces of food as they will rip off a piece of flake and feed it to themselves. Some shrimp do not like algae tablets, some do. (Foods with copper compounds are not ok for RCS.) \\nIf there is still food in the tank when you feed them, skip that feeding and check again later.\\nFeed very small amounts once per day, especially if you just start with 10 shrimp. A flake the size of your pinky fingernail should last 10 RCS about 2, perhaps 3 days. Do not overfeed as it will result in harmless worms like detritus or planaria. If this happens do a water change and if you have no RCS babies then do a gravel vac and start to feed less food or not as often.\\nTo blanch zucchini, put one slice in a microwave safe bowl. Cover with about an inch or so or 3cm of water. Cook on high for 1 minute. Let cool for 20 minutes, then drop into tank. If the zucchini floats, weight it down with a zip tie, a piece of plastic, or a marble, but not metal.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Wait for the shrimp to breed.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"If water temperature is warm enough and there is enough food, they will simply breed.\", \"描述\": \"Female shrimp should get greenish or yellowish eggs under their tail within 30 days of you receiving them, if they don't already have eggs. Female shrimp get a yellowish \\\"saddle-shaped\\\" patch behind their head. These are eggs in their ovaries. The eggs should move to their tails in 7-10 days. Once the eggs are under their tails, the eggs will hatch in 3-4 weeks.\\nYou will notice how the mom fans the eggs occasionally to prevent fungus from growing on them.\\nThe eggs will hatch faster if the water is warmer.\\nYou may wake up one day to find tiny clear shrimp on the plants, or on the bottom.\\nBaby RCS look just like the adults, but they are very small, about 2mm long, and clear. But their shape is the same as an adult RCS.\\nShrimp will not eat their babies unless they are starving. Besides, the babies are quick to get away.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Maintain the tank.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"A 10-gallon or 40 litre tank can safely hold 100-150 adult RCS.\", \"描述\": \"Just make sure that you change 25% of the water each week without exception. Do not vacuum the bottom of the tank, baby shrimp get a lot of their daily food out of the \\\"waste\\\". However too much waste will cause a buildup of nitrates. High nitrates can kill shrimp.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"The biggest mistake a new person can make is using too many chemicals. If your ammonia=0, nitrite=0, nitrate<50 ppm, and ph is 6.0-8.0, you should be fine. You should never use pH up or pH down, stress coat, or other chemicals. They will only compound your problems. The only chemical you need is a dechlorinator which neutralizes chlorine and chloramines.\\n\", \"Shrimps love a small piece of boiled carrot. It also improves their color. Do remove it within 24 hours or it will pollute the water.\\n\", \"Shrimp who are getting ready to molt will form a \\\"u\\\" shape. They will bend and try to touch their tail. If you are lucky will see them shed. It is very fast. They flick out of their old skin in the blink of an eye, leaving behind a perfect hollow replica of themselves.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Cardinal tetras will harm RCS babies.\\n\", \"Do not remove any empty shells of molted shrimp. Many will consume this to get back valuable minerals.\\n\", \"Shrimp in general are sensitive to, and can be killed by chloramines, chlorine, ammonia, nitrites, and high nitrates. Make sure your water dechlorinator takes care of chlorine and chloramines.\\n\", \"Many fish will eat adult shrimp, as well as baby shrimp. Any type of catfish, predator fish, angelfish, oscars, clown loaches, or eels will eat shrimp. If you have lots of cover, more babies will survive. Java moss makes excellent cover and forage.\\n\", \"Uncoated heavy metals like zinc, lead (from plant weights) and elemental copper will kill shrimp, especially copper. If a tank has ever had elemental copper in it, you will have a hard time keeping shrimp alive. Copper sulfate in fish foods is safe as it is a copper compound in low amounts. The dangerous stuff is elemental copper (copper metal). The copper compound found in snail killing concoctions is toxic to shrimp and inverts because it is so concentrated.\\n\", \"Adult RCS are safe with guppies, mollies, platies, porkchop rasboras, or any fish too small to eat the shrimp.\\n\", \"Some copper compounds seem to be safe for shrimp. For example, tiny amounts of copper sulfate are commonly used as a preservative in almost all fish food. It is safe to feed shrimp the food with copper sulfate since it is not elemental copper.\\n\", \"Despite a persistent myth, an iodine supplement is not needed for freshwater crustaceans. There is no scientific support that freshwater shrimp use iodine in the water column. They get enough iodine from their food. Saltwater crustaceans MAY have a need for supplemental iodine.\\n\", \"If your tank isn't cycled well, you may be forced to perform water changes frequently. This can up the chance of you sucking up tiny shrimp babies.\\n\", \"Never keep betta with any kind of shrimps. They will eat the RCS.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
6,952 |
How to Breed Sheep
|
1. Acquiring Your Breeding Sheep
1-1. Buy a healthy ram with a good breeding history.
The best way to purchase a good breeding ram is through a local livestock auction. Look over the rams in the pens, and check to make sure that rams you are interested in purchasing have large testicles, a good firm tail as that indicates a good sperm reserve, and no visible defects. Pick out 3-5 rams you’d like to bid on, so that you won’t go home empty handed if someone else buys your first-choice ram.
It’s perfectly normal to talk to the rams’ owners and ask a few questions regarding their breeding history. For example, find out the average size of the rams’ offspring (larger is better). Find out if the ram’s father and grandfather have produced healthy offspring.
If you’re looking for a high-quality ram, ask the ram’s owner or breeder if you can look over the animal’s pedigree. When looking over the pedigree, confirm that the ram’s pedigree covers at least 3 or 4 generations and contains few (or no) instances of inbreeding.
1-2. Plan to spend $200-$600 USD on high-quality rams at an auction.
Write down the number of the ram you’d like to buy, and watch for it to come on the auction block. Make sure you have a fixed highest price in your head, and don’t exceed that amount at the auction. If the first ram you’d like to purchase goes too high in price, move on to your second, third, or fourth choices.
Once you’ve succeeded in buying a ram, speak to the former owner again. Ask if they offer any type of guarantee on the animal. For example, if the ram fails to produce offspring, reputable dealers may offer a partial refund.
If you’re purchasing more than 1 ram, make sure your rams are the same age. If you pair an older ram together with a younger ram, the older may beat the younger when they’re competing for ewes.
1-3. Purchase a healthy ewe with a good birthing history.
When you’re looking at ewes to purchase, physically inspect their bodies before bidding. Check for firm, healthy udders and a full set of teeth. Ewes should be of average weight for their breed, so avoid ewes that are obese or that are only skin and bones.
Due to the large number of sheep breeds, the average weight of ewes can widely vary. Mature breeding ewes can weigh from 100–240 pounds (45–109 kg).
Talk to the breeder or owner before bidding on a ewe. Make sure that the ewe has never prolapsed when giving birth and has never rejected (refused to nurse) any of her previous lambs.
1-4. Expect to spend $200 USD on fertile ewes at an auction.
Ewes are generally cheaper than rams, since rams can impregnate multiple ewes in a single breeding cycle. A good ewe may sell for only $200-300 USD.
Exercise caution if a breeder is willing to sell a ewe for under $200. This may indicate that the ewe is in poor health or has prolapsed during previous births.
2. Caring for and Feeding Your Breeding Sheep
2-1. Feed your ram a good, nutritious hay diet.
The ram will have been eating a grain diet in the auction feeding station, so you should transfer him to a healthy fresh grass and nutritious hay diet. Allow the ram to graze freely on healthy hays. A hay diet will increase the ram’s ability to breed well and to produce strong, healthy lambs.
Good hay choices include timothy, bermudagrass, bromegrass, Kentucky bluegrass, orchardgrass, and ryegrass.
2-2. Ask a vet to examine your ram 6-8 weeks before mating.
Have the vet perform a “breeding soundness exam” to confirm that the ram is in good health. Ask your vet to provide a full clinical examination, a genital examination, and a semen sample. Breeding rams should have normal genital organs, normal libido, the ability to mount and mate ewes, and a good amount of sperm to ejaculate.
Beginning 2 months before the mating season, keep an extra careful watch over your ram to ensure it’s calm and in good health. Illness will cause an increase in testicular temperature and may decrease fertility.
If you’re concerned about the ram’s health, the vet can inspect the semen sample through a microscope to make sure the ram has a healthy semen count.
2-3. Clip the fur around the ewes’ rear ends in early fall before mating.
Clipping the area where the ram will mount will help the ewe conceive by giving the ram easier access and preventing vaginal contamination by hair and fecal matter. Use an ordinary pair of sheep shears to clip off about 12 square inches (77 cm) on the ewes’ rear.
This process won’t hurt the ewes, so they should remain docile while you’re clipping.
3. Encouraging the Sheep to Mate
3-1. Breed the sheep in the early fall.
Ewes’ fertility is tied to the length of days, so the season in which you breed your ewes is important. Breeding is most successful in fall, when the length of the days decreases. Once the length of days has decreased, the ewes will enter heat every 16 or 17 days. Once the days begin to lengthen again, the sheep will enter heat less often and the breeding season will have passed.
So, if you live in the U.S. or Canada, breed your sheep in either October or November.
3-2. Watch for your ewe(s) to show signs of heat when around a ram.
The signs of heat are difficult to discern, and typically only show up when a ewe is near a ram. In this situation, the ewe will seek out a ram and stand still near him in order to be mounted. A ewe in heat will also nuzzle at a ram’s belly and may wave her tail around vigorously. Once the ewe(s) are in heat, you’re ready to begin mating the sheep.
When the ewe urinates, the ram will sniff it, extend his leg, and curl his lip. When the ram curls his lip, this is called a “flehmen response.” It’s a sign that the ram has sniffed the female’s urine and is interested in mating.
If you have multiple ewes, many of them will come into heat at the same time. Make sure you separate the ewes in heat from the ones that aren't.
3-3. Divide your ewes into 2 groups and put 1 ram with each group.
If you have more than a single ram, separate the rams from one another. This is to prevent the rams from fighting in competition over the ewes. To prohibit fighting, you can separate the ewes into 2 groups and let 1 ram have each group. Once the ram and ewes have been introduced, they’ll begin to exhibit mating behaviors.
If you don’t have enough ewes to divide, it’s alright to leave the sheep all in a single group. Likewise, if you only have 1 ram, leave all of the sheep in 1 group.
3-4. Give the rams and ewes a few weeks together to mate.
Mating doesn’t always occur in the first couple of days that the rams and ewes are together. Eventually, the rams will start to mount the ewes because the ewes are in heat and will be exuding a mating hormone. If the ewe is receptive, she will stand for mating. In most cases, a ewe will become pregnant after she’s mated 2 or 3 times.
A ram may find a single ewe that he prefers and will mate her exclusively.
3-5. Inspect the ewe’s belly for signs of growth once a ram and ewe have mated.
Usually during the first 4 months of pregnancy, you’ll notice the ewe’s belly expanding to a large size. You’ll also notice that her udders become larger as they begin to fill with milk. You can ask a veterinarian to give your ewes ultrasounds to confirm whether or not they are pregnant.
Also pay attention to the ewe’s appetite. If she begins to eat an increasing amount of food, she’s most likely pregnant.
Depending on the breed of sheep, the udder size will vary.
4. Altering the Diet of Pregnant and Lactating Ewes
4-1. Give the pregnant ewe(s) a healthy diet of high-quality hay grass.
Keep your pregnant ewes on hay grass in the early and middle portions of their gestation period. Each day, give every ewe 3.5–4 pounds (1.6–1.8 kg) of hay grass. This grass will contain plenty of nutrients to sustain the developing lambs. Good hay grasses include orchardgrass, reed canary-grass, and tall fescue.
You can purchase both hay grasses and legumes at a local feed store. On average, hay bales cost between $1-10 USD.
The average gestation period last from 142-152 days. So plan on roughly a 5-month pregnancy.
4-2. Introduce legumes to your pregnant ewes’ diet for the final 2 months of gestation.
After your ewes have been pregnant for 3 months, begin feeding them a blend of hay grasses and legumes. For the final months of their pregnancy, ewes will need a high-quality, high-protein diet to develop healthy lambs. Since legumes are higher in proteins than grasses, blend grass and legumes at about a 1:1 ratio.
High-protein legumes include cowpeas, vetch, soybean, and red clover.
As with the high-quality hay grass, give each pregnant ewe a total of 3.5–4 pounds (1.6–1.8 kg) of hay grass and legumes each day. For example, you could give a ewe 2 pounds (0.91 kg) of a legume and 2 pounds (0.91 kg) of a hay grass.
4-3. Feed your lactating ewe(s) only legume hays.
These hays have a higher content of protein and calcium and will enrich the ewes’ milk while their lambs are nursing. The protein-rich hays will help develop strong lambs and keep the ewes in good health as they nurse and recover from the birthing process. Give each ewe 4–5 pounds (1.8–2.3 kg) of legume hay each day.
Types of legumes include alfalfa, white clover, and birdsfoot trefoil.
Tips
It can be difficult to see which ram is mounting a specific ewe. Try applying raddle paint to the bellies and chests of the rams with different colors so you know which ram mounted which ewe. The raddle paint from the ram’s chest will rub off on the ewe’s rump.[21]
X
Research source
Warnings
If the ram still has his horns, you must be very careful when interacting with the animal. Even if it is de-butted, the ram can be very dangerous. With one head-butt, a fully grown ram can break an adult’s leg.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:58:39",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Acquiring Your Breeding Sheep\\n1-1. Buy a healthy ram with a good breeding history.\\nThe best way to purchase a good breeding ram is through a local livestock auction. Look over the rams in the pens, and check to make sure that rams you are interested in purchasing have large testicles, a good firm tail as that indicates a good sperm reserve, and no visible defects. Pick out 3-5 rams you’d like to bid on, so that you won’t go home empty handed if someone else buys your first-choice ram.\\nIt’s perfectly normal to talk to the rams’ owners and ask a few questions regarding their breeding history. For example, find out the average size of the rams’ offspring (larger is better). Find out if the ram’s father and grandfather have produced healthy offspring.\\nIf you’re looking for a high-quality ram, ask the ram’s owner or breeder if you can look over the animal’s pedigree. When looking over the pedigree, confirm that the ram’s pedigree covers at least 3 or 4 generations and contains few (or no) instances of inbreeding.\\n1-2. Plan to spend $200-$600 USD on high-quality rams at an auction.\\nWrite down the number of the ram you’d like to buy, and watch for it to come on the auction block. Make sure you have a fixed highest price in your head, and don’t exceed that amount at the auction. If the first ram you’d like to purchase goes too high in price, move on to your second, third, or fourth choices.\\nOnce you’ve succeeded in buying a ram, speak to the former owner again. Ask if they offer any type of guarantee on the animal. For example, if the ram fails to produce offspring, reputable dealers may offer a partial refund.\\nIf you’re purchasing more than 1 ram, make sure your rams are the same age. If you pair an older ram together with a younger ram, the older may beat the younger when they’re competing for ewes.\\n1-3. Purchase a healthy ewe with a good birthing history.\\nWhen you’re looking at ewes to purchase, physically inspect their bodies before bidding. Check for firm, healthy udders and a full set of teeth. Ewes should be of average weight for their breed, so avoid ewes that are obese or that are only skin and bones.\\nDue to the large number of sheep breeds, the average weight of ewes can widely vary. Mature breeding ewes can weigh from 100–240 pounds (45–109 kg).\\nTalk to the breeder or owner before bidding on a ewe. Make sure that the ewe has never prolapsed when giving birth and has never rejected (refused to nurse) any of her previous lambs.\\n1-4. Expect to spend $200 USD on fertile ewes at an auction.\\nEwes are generally cheaper than rams, since rams can impregnate multiple ewes in a single breeding cycle. A good ewe may sell for only $200-300 USD.\\nExercise caution if a breeder is willing to sell a ewe for under $200. This may indicate that the ewe is in poor health or has prolapsed during previous births.\\n2. Caring for and Feeding Your Breeding Sheep\\n2-1. Feed your ram a good, nutritious hay diet.\\nThe ram will have been eating a grain diet in the auction feeding station, so you should transfer him to a healthy fresh grass and nutritious hay diet. Allow the ram to graze freely on healthy hays. A hay diet will increase the ram’s ability to breed well and to produce strong, healthy lambs.\\nGood hay choices include timothy, bermudagrass, bromegrass, Kentucky bluegrass, orchardgrass, and ryegrass.\\n2-2. Ask a vet to examine your ram 6-8 weeks before mating.\\nHave the vet perform a “breeding soundness exam” to confirm that the ram is in good health. Ask your vet to provide a full clinical examination, a genital examination, and a semen sample. Breeding rams should have normal genital organs, normal libido, the ability to mount and mate ewes, and a good amount of sperm to ejaculate.\\nBeginning 2 months before the mating season, keep an extra careful watch over your ram to ensure it’s calm and in good health. Illness will cause an increase in testicular temperature and may decrease fertility.\\nIf you’re concerned about the ram’s health, the vet can inspect the semen sample through a microscope to make sure the ram has a healthy semen count.\\n2-3. Clip the fur around the ewes’ rear ends in early fall before mating.\\nClipping the area where the ram will mount will help the ewe conceive by giving the ram easier access and preventing vaginal contamination by hair and fecal matter. Use an ordinary pair of sheep shears to clip off about 12 square inches (77 cm) on the ewes’ rear.\\nThis process won’t hurt the ewes, so they should remain docile while you’re clipping.\\n3. Encouraging the Sheep to Mate\\n3-1. Breed the sheep in the early fall.\\nEwes’ fertility is tied to the length of days, so the season in which you breed your ewes is important. Breeding is most successful in fall, when the length of the days decreases. Once the length of days has decreased, the ewes will enter heat every 16 or 17 days. Once the days begin to lengthen again, the sheep will enter heat less often and the breeding season will have passed.\\nSo, if you live in the U.S. or Canada, breed your sheep in either October or November.\\n3-2. Watch for your ewe(s) to show signs of heat when around a ram.\\nThe signs of heat are difficult to discern, and typically only show up when a ewe is near a ram. In this situation, the ewe will seek out a ram and stand still near him in order to be mounted. A ewe in heat will also nuzzle at a ram’s belly and may wave her tail around vigorously. Once the ewe(s) are in heat, you’re ready to begin mating the sheep.\\nWhen the ewe urinates, the ram will sniff it, extend his leg, and curl his lip. When the ram curls his lip, this is called a “flehmen response.” It’s a sign that the ram has sniffed the female’s urine and is interested in mating.\\nIf you have multiple ewes, many of them will come into heat at the same time. Make sure you separate the ewes in heat from the ones that aren't.\\n3-3. Divide your ewes into 2 groups and put 1 ram with each group.\\nIf you have more than a single ram, separate the rams from one another. This is to prevent the rams from fighting in competition over the ewes. To prohibit fighting, you can separate the ewes into 2 groups and let 1 ram have each group. Once the ram and ewes have been introduced, they’ll begin to exhibit mating behaviors.\\nIf you don’t have enough ewes to divide, it’s alright to leave the sheep all in a single group. Likewise, if you only have 1 ram, leave all of the sheep in 1 group.\\n3-4. Give the rams and ewes a few weeks together to mate.\\nMating doesn’t always occur in the first couple of days that the rams and ewes are together. Eventually, the rams will start to mount the ewes because the ewes are in heat and will be exuding a mating hormone. If the ewe is receptive, she will stand for mating. In most cases, a ewe will become pregnant after she’s mated 2 or 3 times.\\nA ram may find a single ewe that he prefers and will mate her exclusively.\\n3-5. Inspect the ewe’s belly for signs of growth once a ram and ewe have mated.\\nUsually during the first 4 months of pregnancy, you’ll notice the ewe’s belly expanding to a large size. You’ll also notice that her udders become larger as they begin to fill with milk. You can ask a veterinarian to give your ewes ultrasounds to confirm whether or not they are pregnant.\\nAlso pay attention to the ewe’s appetite. If she begins to eat an increasing amount of food, she’s most likely pregnant.\\nDepending on the breed of sheep, the udder size will vary.\\n4. Altering the Diet of Pregnant and Lactating Ewes\\n4-1. Give the pregnant ewe(s) a healthy diet of high-quality hay grass.\\nKeep your pregnant ewes on hay grass in the early and middle portions of their gestation period. Each day, give every ewe 3.5–4 pounds (1.6–1.8 kg) of hay grass. This grass will contain plenty of nutrients to sustain the developing lambs. Good hay grasses include orchardgrass, reed canary-grass, and tall fescue.\\nYou can purchase both hay grasses and legumes at a local feed store. On average, hay bales cost between $1-10 USD.\\nThe average gestation period last from 142-152 days. So plan on roughly a 5-month pregnancy.\\n4-2. Introduce legumes to your pregnant ewes’ diet for the final 2 months of gestation.\\nAfter your ewes have been pregnant for 3 months, begin feeding them a blend of hay grasses and legumes. For the final months of their pregnancy, ewes will need a high-quality, high-protein diet to develop healthy lambs. Since legumes are higher in proteins than grasses, blend grass and legumes at about a 1:1 ratio.\\nHigh-protein legumes include cowpeas, vetch, soybean, and red clover.\\nAs with the high-quality hay grass, give each pregnant ewe a total of 3.5–4 pounds (1.6–1.8 kg) of hay grass and legumes each day. For example, you could give a ewe 2 pounds (0.91 kg) of a legume and 2 pounds (0.91 kg) of a hay grass.\\n4-3. Feed your lactating ewe(s) only legume hays.\\nThese hays have a higher content of protein and calcium and will enrich the ewes’ milk while their lambs are nursing. The protein-rich hays will help develop strong lambs and keep the ewes in good health as they nurse and recover from the birthing process. Give each ewe 4–5 pounds (1.8–2.3 kg) of legume hay each day.\\nTypes of legumes include alfalfa, white clover, and birdsfoot trefoil.\\nTips\\nIt can be difficult to see which ram is mounting a specific ewe. Try applying raddle paint to the bellies and chests of the rams with different colors so you know which ram mounted which ewe. The raddle paint from the ram’s chest will rub off on the ewe’s rump.[21]\\nX\\nResearch source\\nWarnings\\nIf the ram still has his horns, you must be very careful when interacting with the animal. Even if it is de-butted, the ram can be very dangerous. With one head-butt, a fully grown ram can break an adult’s leg.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Breeding sheep is more than just pairing up a ram and a ewe—you also need to be prepared to care for the pregnant ewe through gestation and beyond. Luckily, we're here with all the tips you need for the best odds of success!\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Acquiring Your Breeding Sheep\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Buy a healthy ram with a good breeding history.\", \"描述\": \"The best way to purchase a good breeding ram is through a local livestock auction. Look over the rams in the pens, and check to make sure that rams you are interested in purchasing have large testicles, a good firm tail as that indicates a good sperm reserve, and no visible defects. Pick out 3-5 rams you’d like to bid on, so that you won’t go home empty handed if someone else buys your first-choice ram.\\nIt’s perfectly normal to talk to the rams’ owners and ask a few questions regarding their breeding history. For example, find out the average size of the rams’ offspring (larger is better). Find out if the ram’s father and grandfather have produced healthy offspring.\\nIf you’re looking for a high-quality ram, ask the ram’s owner or breeder if you can look over the animal’s pedigree. When looking over the pedigree, confirm that the ram’s pedigree covers at least 3 or 4 generations and contains few (or no) instances of inbreeding.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Plan to spend $200-$600 USD on high-quality rams at an auction.\", \"描述\": \"Write down the number of the ram you’d like to buy, and watch for it to come on the auction block. Make sure you have a fixed highest price in your head, and don’t exceed that amount at the auction. If the first ram you’d like to purchase goes too high in price, move on to your second, third, or fourth choices.\\nOnce you’ve succeeded in buying a ram, speak to the former owner again. Ask if they offer any type of guarantee on the animal. For example, if the ram fails to produce offspring, reputable dealers may offer a partial refund.\\nIf you’re purchasing more than 1 ram, make sure your rams are the same age. If you pair an older ram together with a younger ram, the older may beat the younger when they’re competing for ewes.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Purchase a healthy ewe with a good birthing history.\", \"描述\": \"When you’re looking at ewes to purchase, physically inspect their bodies before bidding. Check for firm, healthy udders and a full set of teeth. Ewes should be of average weight for their breed, so avoid ewes that are obese or that are only skin and bones.\\nDue to the large number of sheep breeds, the average weight of ewes can widely vary. Mature breeding ewes can weigh from 100–240 pounds (45–109 kg).\\nTalk to the breeder or owner before bidding on a ewe. Make sure that the ewe has never prolapsed when giving birth and has never rejected (refused to nurse) any of her previous lambs.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Expect to spend $200 USD on fertile ewes at an auction.\", \"描述\": \"Ewes are generally cheaper than rams, since rams can impregnate multiple ewes in a single breeding cycle. A good ewe may sell for only $200-300 USD.\\nExercise caution if a breeder is willing to sell a ewe for under $200. This may indicate that the ewe is in poor health or has prolapsed during previous births.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Caring for and Feeding Your Breeding Sheep\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Feed your ram a good, nutritious hay diet.\", \"描述\": \"The ram will have been eating a grain diet in the auction feeding station, so you should transfer him to a healthy fresh grass and nutritious hay diet. Allow the ram to graze freely on healthy hays. A hay diet will increase the ram’s ability to breed well and to produce strong, healthy lambs.\\nGood hay choices include timothy, bermudagrass, bromegrass, Kentucky bluegrass, orchardgrass, and ryegrass.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Ask a vet to examine your ram 6-8 weeks before mating.\", \"描述\": \"Have the vet perform a “breeding soundness exam” to confirm that the ram is in good health. Ask your vet to provide a full clinical examination, a genital examination, and a semen sample. Breeding rams should have normal genital organs, normal libido, the ability to mount and mate ewes, and a good amount of sperm to ejaculate.\\nBeginning 2 months before the mating season, keep an extra careful watch over your ram to ensure it’s calm and in good health. Illness will cause an increase in testicular temperature and may decrease fertility.\\nIf you’re concerned about the ram’s health, the vet can inspect the semen sample through a microscope to make sure the ram has a healthy semen count.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Clip the fur around the ewes’ rear ends in early fall before mating.\", \"描述\": \"Clipping the area where the ram will mount will help the ewe conceive by giving the ram easier access and preventing vaginal contamination by hair and fecal matter. Use an ordinary pair of sheep shears to clip off about 12 square inches (77 cm) on the ewes’ rear.\\nThis process won’t hurt the ewes, so they should remain docile while you’re clipping.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Encouraging the Sheep to Mate\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Breed the sheep in the early fall.\", \"描述\": \"Ewes’ fertility is tied to the length of days, so the season in which you breed your ewes is important. Breeding is most successful in fall, when the length of the days decreases. Once the length of days has decreased, the ewes will enter heat every 16 or 17 days. Once the days begin to lengthen again, the sheep will enter heat less often and the breeding season will have passed.\\nSo, if you live in the U.S. or Canada, breed your sheep in either October or November.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Watch for your ewe(s) to show signs of heat when around a ram.\", \"描述\": \"The signs of heat are difficult to discern, and typically only show up when a ewe is near a ram. In this situation, the ewe will seek out a ram and stand still near him in order to be mounted. A ewe in heat will also nuzzle at a ram’s belly and may wave her tail around vigorously. Once the ewe(s) are in heat, you’re ready to begin mating the sheep.\\nWhen the ewe urinates, the ram will sniff it, extend his leg, and curl his lip. When the ram curls his lip, this is called a “flehmen response.” It’s a sign that the ram has sniffed the female’s urine and is interested in mating.\\nIf you have multiple ewes, many of them will come into heat at the same time. Make sure you separate the ewes in heat from the ones that aren't.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Divide your ewes into 2 groups and put 1 ram with each group.\", \"描述\": \"If you have more than a single ram, separate the rams from one another. This is to prevent the rams from fighting in competition over the ewes. To prohibit fighting, you can separate the ewes into 2 groups and let 1 ram have each group. Once the ram and ewes have been introduced, they’ll begin to exhibit mating behaviors.\\nIf you don’t have enough ewes to divide, it’s alright to leave the sheep all in a single group. Likewise, if you only have 1 ram, leave all of the sheep in 1 group.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Give the rams and ewes a few weeks together to mate.\", \"描述\": \"Mating doesn’t always occur in the first couple of days that the rams and ewes are together. Eventually, the rams will start to mount the ewes because the ewes are in heat and will be exuding a mating hormone. If the ewe is receptive, she will stand for mating. In most cases, a ewe will become pregnant after she’s mated 2 or 3 times.\\nA ram may find a single ewe that he prefers and will mate her exclusively.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Inspect the ewe’s belly for signs of growth once a ram and ewe have mated.\", \"描述\": \"Usually during the first 4 months of pregnancy, you’ll notice the ewe’s belly expanding to a large size. You’ll also notice that her udders become larger as they begin to fill with milk. You can ask a veterinarian to give your ewes ultrasounds to confirm whether or not they are pregnant.\\nAlso pay attention to the ewe’s appetite. If she begins to eat an increasing amount of food, she’s most likely pregnant.\\nDepending on the breed of sheep, the udder size will vary.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Altering the Diet of Pregnant and Lactating Ewes\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Give the pregnant ewe(s) a healthy diet of high-quality hay grass.\", \"描述\": \"Keep your pregnant ewes on hay grass in the early and middle portions of their gestation period. Each day, give every ewe 3.5–4 pounds (1.6–1.8 kg) of hay grass. This grass will contain plenty of nutrients to sustain the developing lambs. Good hay grasses include orchardgrass, reed canary-grass, and tall fescue.\\nYou can purchase both hay grasses and legumes at a local feed store. On average, hay bales cost between $1-10 USD.\\nThe average gestation period last from 142-152 days. So plan on roughly a 5-month pregnancy.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Introduce legumes to your pregnant ewes’ diet for the final 2 months of gestation.\", \"描述\": \"After your ewes have been pregnant for 3 months, begin feeding them a blend of hay grasses and legumes. For the final months of their pregnancy, ewes will need a high-quality, high-protein diet to develop healthy lambs. Since legumes are higher in proteins than grasses, blend grass and legumes at about a 1:1 ratio.\\nHigh-protein legumes include cowpeas, vetch, soybean, and red clover.\\nAs with the high-quality hay grass, give each pregnant ewe a total of 3.5–4 pounds (1.6–1.8 kg) of hay grass and legumes each day. For example, you could give a ewe 2 pounds (0.91 kg) of a legume and 2 pounds (0.91 kg) of a hay grass.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Feed your lactating ewe(s) only legume hays.\", \"描述\": \"These hays have a higher content of protein and calcium and will enrich the ewes’ milk while their lambs are nursing. The protein-rich hays will help develop strong lambs and keep the ewes in good health as they nurse and recover from the birthing process. Give each ewe 4–5 pounds (1.8–2.3 kg) of legume hay each day.\\nTypes of legumes include alfalfa, white clover, and birdsfoot trefoil.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"It can be difficult to see which ram is mounting a specific ewe. Try applying raddle paint to the bellies and chests of the rams with different colors so you know which ram mounted which ewe. The raddle paint from the ram’s chest will rub off on the ewe’s rump.[21]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"If the ram still has his horns, you must be very careful when interacting with the animal. Even if it is de-butted, the ram can be very dangerous. With one head-butt, a fully grown ram can break an adult’s leg.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
6,953 |
How to Breed Shih Tzus
|
1. Knowing What to Expect
1-1. Speak to an experienced breeder.
The best way to find out what you’re in for if you breed Shih Tzus is to interview an experienced Shih Tzu breeder, or another Shih Tzu expert. Breeders can tell you firsthand what to expect from the experience, what troubles might arise, and what mistakes you should avoid. The American Shih Tzu Club has several breeder referral volunteers who can be contacted for advice about the breed as well as contact information for Shih Tzu breeders.
1-2. Make sure you can commit the time to breeding.
Raising an average litter requires at least 130 hours of a breeder’s time, and may require days off work and sleepless nights. Make sure that you are ready to commit the time and personal effort required to care for both puppies and their mother throughout the process of breeding; remember that a mother can’t be left alone during the process of whelping (i.e. giving birth), and that newborn puppies require daily care and checking. Feeding and socializing the puppies, cleaning, paperwork, and interviewing buyers will all require long periods of your time as well.
1-3. Budget properly.
Before going into dog breeding, you should know that it is not a money-making endeavor. Good breeders prioritize the good of the breed and the welfare of their puppies over profit - as such, the process may not offer a large return. Costs include food, health care and vaccinations, facilities, documents for proof of quality, advertising, and stud fees (if applicable).
1-4. Be prepared for the worst.
First time breeders don’t have established reputations or references and run the risk of not selling their puppies. Ask yourself what you will do if your puppies don’t sell, and if you are willing to care for them on a long-term basis if they don’t. While unscrupulous breeders often get rid of puppies that don’t sell, or sell them to laboratories or other undesirable buyers, good breeders will accept the liability. You should also be prepared, financially and mentally, for the possibility of having unhealthy puppies in your litter.
2. Facilitating the Breeding Process
2-1. Make sure that both Shih Tzus are healthy.
You must make sure that both the female (dam) and male (sire) are healthy and genetically fit for breeding, and that their vaccinations are current. Testing should be done for conditions that the Shih Tzu breed is prone to, such as heritable eye diseases, Hip Dysplasia, Renal Dysplasia, thyroid disorders, and hearing loss. Once a dog is cleared of one of these conditions, it can be registered with the appropriate registry (e.g. once a dog is tested and cleared of heritable eye diseases, it can be registered with the the local Canine Eye Registry).>
The female Shih Tzu should get a thorough pre-breeding physical examination by a veterinarian about a month before breeding begins.
2-2. Make sure your female Shih Tzu is ready for breeding.
Ideally, your Shih Tzu should have her first litter after her second heat cycle but before she's reached the age of 4. Because of health risks, dogs older than 7 should not be bred. Female Shih Tzus stay in heat (i.e. the period in a dog’s reproductive cycle when she is receptive to mating) for approximately 16 days, but are usually not receptive to males on the first day of this period.
If a female is not ready to mate, she will run from or avoid a male; if she is ready, she will stay and move her tail to the side to signal her readiness.
2-3. Choose the right stud.
Put up flyers, take out a classified ad, or look online for possible studs. Remember that, as a general rule, a male should be smaller than the female Shih Tzu it breeds with by a pound or two. It should also complement your female Shih Tzu in terms of attributes and qualities, and offer genetic strengths that will result in strong, quality offspring (e.g. a good coat).
2-4. Work out a stud contract.
Before breeding occurs, you should work out a contract with the stud's owner outlining obligations, fees, and payment. Stud fees can run between $250-$1000, depending on the quality of the male. but some contracts will outline other forms of payment to the stud's owner (e.g. the pick of the litter in lieu of cash payment). Both parties should sign and keep a copy of the contract.
2-5. Pair the Shih Tzus.
Given that females are more comfortable in new environments than males, you should bring the female to the stud, and not vice versa. Depending on the details of your agreement with the stud's owner, you can either go back for breeding visits as scheduled, or leave the female in the custody of the stud owner during the breeding period. Make sure that all such terms are outlined before the process begins.
2-6. Confirm the female's pregnancy.
The average gestation time for a Shih Tzu is between 59 to 65 days from the date of breeding. While signs of pregnancy may be misleading (e.g. increased appetite, weight gain), a veterinarian can confirm pregnancy around day 28. The veterinarian can also advise you about how to care for and feed your pregnant Shih Tzu.
2-7. Prepare for the whelping.
Prepare for the birth of the puppies by making a whelping box (i.e. a place for your Shih Tzu to give birth). This could be a cardboard box with low edges, a wooden box, or any other box that is wide enough to accommodate the female and the puppies, once they are born. Introduce the whelping box early enough for your Shih Tzu to get used to it before giving birth; line it with towels to make it more comfortable.
3. Taking Care of the Shih Tzus
3-1. Monitor the birth.
Approximately 24 hours before whelping, the female's temperature will drop. As the time to give birth approaches, she will begin to demonstrate more signs of discomfort (panting, seeming restless). For Shih Tzus, whelping generally lasts 3-8 hours, depending on the number of puppies and the strength of contractions. Dogs are generally able to give birth without assistance, but you should be present to do the following (when, and if, needed):
Removing the placental membrane or cutting the umbilical cord in the event that the mother does not do it on her own
Count the placentas delivered to make sure that no placentas have been retained
Call the veterinarian in the event of an emergency (e.g. two hours or more between delivery of puppies in the litter, a common issue for small dogs like Shih Tzus)
3-2. Look after the puppies.
Puppies should be weighed every day to make sure they're growing, and that they are healthy. Make sure that all puppies are nursing properly, and that they're kept warm; a heating pad or heating lamp can be used, if necessary. Once puppies are weaned from their mother, they will need to be fed; at this point, it is wise to start socializing the puppies to improve their temperament and get them accustomed to canine and human interactions.
3-3. Take care of the dam.
After giving birth, the female will require some extra attention. After whelping, she will need three to four times more food than her regular diet in order to nourish her puppies. Be sure that she consumes calcium, phosphorous, and vitamin D to avoid eclampsia.
4. Selling Your Puppies
4-1. Register the litter.
Register your litter with the American Kennel Club shortly after whelping. This will demonstrate to potential buyers that you're a responsible breeder, and it will establish each individual puppy as an important part of the betterment of their breed. New owners of these puppies will have access to the group's events, services, and information.
4-2. Establish your price range.
The price of Shih Tzu puppies can range tremendously, so you should set a price for yours and stick to it. Prices is based on whether or not the puppies have already been vaccinated, the prices of other local breeders, and your reputation as a breeder. Being consistent about your prices will give you credibility as a serious breeder.
4-3. Find good homes for your puppies.
You should put a lot of thought and effort into choosing new owners for your Shih Tzu puppies, and make sure that potential owners are making the right choice for their lifestyles. Shih Tzus are excellent companion dogs who do not require a lot of exercise, but require daily grooming; if buyers are looking for a more playful and energetic breed, or if you simply do not think a Shih Tzu is what they want, do not sell to them. Good breeders are responsible for the well-being of their puppies long after they are sold.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:58:40",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Knowing What to Expect\\n1-1. Speak to an experienced breeder.\\nThe best way to find out what you’re in for if you breed Shih Tzus is to interview an experienced Shih Tzu breeder, or another Shih Tzu expert. Breeders can tell you firsthand what to expect from the experience, what troubles might arise, and what mistakes you should avoid. The American Shih Tzu Club has several breeder referral volunteers who can be contacted for advice about the breed as well as contact information for Shih Tzu breeders.\\n1-2. Make sure you can commit the time to breeding.\\nRaising an average litter requires at least 130 hours of a breeder’s time, and may require days off work and sleepless nights. Make sure that you are ready to commit the time and personal effort required to care for both puppies and their mother throughout the process of breeding; remember that a mother can’t be left alone during the process of whelping (i.e. giving birth), and that newborn puppies require daily care and checking. Feeding and socializing the puppies, cleaning, paperwork, and interviewing buyers will all require long periods of your time as well.\\n1-3. Budget properly.\\nBefore going into dog breeding, you should know that it is not a money-making endeavor. Good breeders prioritize the good of the breed and the welfare of their puppies over profit - as such, the process may not offer a large return. Costs include food, health care and vaccinations, facilities, documents for proof of quality, advertising, and stud fees (if applicable).\\n1-4. Be prepared for the worst.\\nFirst time breeders don’t have established reputations or references and run the risk of not selling their puppies. Ask yourself what you will do if your puppies don’t sell, and if you are willing to care for them on a long-term basis if they don’t. While unscrupulous breeders often get rid of puppies that don’t sell, or sell them to laboratories or other undesirable buyers, good breeders will accept the liability. You should also be prepared, financially and mentally, for the possibility of having unhealthy puppies in your litter.\\n2. Facilitating the Breeding Process\\n2-1. Make sure that both Shih Tzus are healthy.\\nYou must make sure that both the female (dam) and male (sire) are healthy and genetically fit for breeding, and that their vaccinations are current. Testing should be done for conditions that the Shih Tzu breed is prone to, such as heritable eye diseases, Hip Dysplasia, Renal Dysplasia, thyroid disorders, and hearing loss. Once a dog is cleared of one of these conditions, it can be registered with the appropriate registry (e.g. once a dog is tested and cleared of heritable eye diseases, it can be registered with the the local Canine Eye Registry).>\\nThe female Shih Tzu should get a thorough pre-breeding physical examination by a veterinarian about a month before breeding begins.\\n2-2. Make sure your female Shih Tzu is ready for breeding.\\nIdeally, your Shih Tzu should have her first litter after her second heat cycle but before she's reached the age of 4. Because of health risks, dogs older than 7 should not be bred. Female Shih Tzus stay in heat (i.e. the period in a dog’s reproductive cycle when she is receptive to mating) for approximately 16 days, but are usually not receptive to males on the first day of this period.\\nIf a female is not ready to mate, she will run from or avoid a male; if she is ready, she will stay and move her tail to the side to signal her readiness.\\n2-3. Choose the right stud.\\nPut up flyers, take out a classified ad, or look online for possible studs. Remember that, as a general rule, a male should be smaller than the female Shih Tzu it breeds with by a pound or two. It should also complement your female Shih Tzu in terms of attributes and qualities, and offer genetic strengths that will result in strong, quality offspring (e.g. a good coat).\\n2-4. Work out a stud contract.\\nBefore breeding occurs, you should work out a contract with the stud's owner outlining obligations, fees, and payment. Stud fees can run between $250-$1000, depending on the quality of the male. but some contracts will outline other forms of payment to the stud's owner (e.g. the pick of the litter in lieu of cash payment). Both parties should sign and keep a copy of the contract.\\n2-5. Pair the Shih Tzus.\\nGiven that females are more comfortable in new environments than males, you should bring the female to the stud, and not vice versa. Depending on the details of your agreement with the stud's owner, you can either go back for breeding visits as scheduled, or leave the female in the custody of the stud owner during the breeding period. Make sure that all such terms are outlined before the process begins.\\n2-6. Confirm the female's pregnancy.\\nThe average gestation time for a Shih Tzu is between 59 to 65 days from the date of breeding. While signs of pregnancy may be misleading (e.g. increased appetite, weight gain), a veterinarian can confirm pregnancy around day 28. The veterinarian can also advise you about how to care for and feed your pregnant Shih Tzu.\\n2-7. Prepare for the whelping.\\nPrepare for the birth of the puppies by making a whelping box (i.e. a place for your Shih Tzu to give birth). This could be a cardboard box with low edges, a wooden box, or any other box that is wide enough to accommodate the female and the puppies, once they are born. Introduce the whelping box early enough for your Shih Tzu to get used to it before giving birth; line it with towels to make it more comfortable.\\n3. Taking Care of the Shih Tzus\\n3-1. Monitor the birth.\\nApproximately 24 hours before whelping, the female's temperature will drop. As the time to give birth approaches, she will begin to demonstrate more signs of discomfort (panting, seeming restless). For Shih Tzus, whelping generally lasts 3-8 hours, depending on the number of puppies and the strength of contractions. Dogs are generally able to give birth without assistance, but you should be present to do the following (when, and if, needed):\\nRemoving the placental membrane or cutting the umbilical cord in the event that the mother does not do it on her own\\nCount the placentas delivered to make sure that no placentas have been retained\\nCall the veterinarian in the event of an emergency (e.g. two hours or more between delivery of puppies in the litter, a common issue for small dogs like Shih Tzus)\\n3-2. Look after the puppies.\\nPuppies should be weighed every day to make sure they're growing, and that they are healthy. Make sure that all puppies are nursing properly, and that they're kept warm; a heating pad or heating lamp can be used, if necessary. Once puppies are weaned from their mother, they will need to be fed; at this point, it is wise to start socializing the puppies to improve their temperament and get them accustomed to canine and human interactions.\\n3-3. Take care of the dam.\\nAfter giving birth, the female will require some extra attention. After whelping, she will need three to four times more food than her regular diet in order to nourish her puppies. Be sure that she consumes calcium, phosphorous, and vitamin D to avoid eclampsia.\\n4. Selling Your Puppies\\n4-1. Register the litter.\\nRegister your litter with the American Kennel Club shortly after whelping. This will demonstrate to potential buyers that you're a responsible breeder, and it will establish each individual puppy as an important part of the betterment of their breed. New owners of these puppies will have access to the group's events, services, and information.\\n4-2. Establish your price range.\\nThe price of Shih Tzu puppies can range tremendously, so you should set a price for yours and stick to it. Prices is based on whether or not the puppies have already been vaccinated, the prices of other local breeders, and your reputation as a breeder. Being consistent about your prices will give you credibility as a serious breeder.\\n4-3. Find good homes for your puppies.\\nYou should put a lot of thought and effort into choosing new owners for your Shih Tzu puppies, and make sure that potential owners are making the right choice for their lifestyles. Shih Tzus are excellent companion dogs who do not require a lot of exercise, but require daily grooming; if buyers are looking for a more playful and energetic breed, or if you simply do not think a Shih Tzu is what they want, do not sell to them. Good breeders are responsible for the well-being of their puppies long after they are sold.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Before you decide to breed Shih Tzus, consider the time, effort, and expenses required to take on the project. Good breeders are not motivated by profit, but by a desire to better the breed. Make sure that both the female and male are healthy and have been screened for genetic disorders. Facilitate breeding encounters for the two dogs, and monitor your female closely in the weeks following. Prepare a birthing space, and make sure to be present during the delivery of the puppies to assist your Shih Tzu if anything goes wrong. Be prepared to care for the puppies until you sell them to a good home.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Knowing What to Expect\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Speak to an experienced breeder.\", \"描述\": \"The best way to find out what you’re in for if you breed Shih Tzus is to interview an experienced Shih Tzu breeder, or another Shih Tzu expert. Breeders can tell you firsthand what to expect from the experience, what troubles might arise, and what mistakes you should avoid. The American Shih Tzu Club has several breeder referral volunteers who can be contacted for advice about the breed as well as contact information for Shih Tzu breeders.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Make sure you can commit the time to breeding.\", \"描述\": \"Raising an average litter requires at least 130 hours of a breeder’s time, and may require days off work and sleepless nights. Make sure that you are ready to commit the time and personal effort required to care for both puppies and their mother throughout the process of breeding; remember that a mother can’t be left alone during the process of whelping (i.e. giving birth), and that newborn puppies require daily care and checking. Feeding and socializing the puppies, cleaning, paperwork, and interviewing buyers will all require long periods of your time as well.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Budget properly.\", \"描述\": \"Before going into dog breeding, you should know that it is not a money-making endeavor. Good breeders prioritize the good of the breed and the welfare of their puppies over profit - as such, the process may not offer a large return. Costs include food, health care and vaccinations, facilities, documents for proof of quality, advertising, and stud fees (if applicable).\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Be prepared for the worst.\", \"描述\": \"First time breeders don’t have established reputations or references and run the risk of not selling their puppies. Ask yourself what you will do if your puppies don’t sell, and if you are willing to care for them on a long-term basis if they don’t. While unscrupulous breeders often get rid of puppies that don’t sell, or sell them to laboratories or other undesirable buyers, good breeders will accept the liability. You should also be prepared, financially and mentally, for the possibility of having unhealthy puppies in your litter.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Facilitating the Breeding Process\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Make sure that both Shih Tzus are healthy.\", \"描述\": \"You must make sure that both the female (dam) and male (sire) are healthy and genetically fit for breeding, and that their vaccinations are current. Testing should be done for conditions that the Shih Tzu breed is prone to, such as heritable eye diseases, Hip Dysplasia, Renal Dysplasia, thyroid disorders, and hearing loss. Once a dog is cleared of one of these conditions, it can be registered with the appropriate registry (e.g. once a dog is tested and cleared of heritable eye diseases, it can be registered with the the local Canine Eye Registry).>\\nThe female Shih Tzu should get a thorough pre-breeding physical examination by a veterinarian about a month before breeding begins.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Make sure your female Shih Tzu is ready for breeding.\", \"描述\": \"Ideally, your Shih Tzu should have her first litter after her second heat cycle but before she's reached the age of 4. Because of health risks, dogs older than 7 should not be bred. Female Shih Tzus stay in heat (i.e. the period in a dog’s reproductive cycle when she is receptive to mating) for approximately 16 days, but are usually not receptive to males on the first day of this period.\\nIf a female is not ready to mate, she will run from or avoid a male; if she is ready, she will stay and move her tail to the side to signal her readiness.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Choose the right stud.\", \"描述\": \"Put up flyers, take out a classified ad, or look online for possible studs. Remember that, as a general rule, a male should be smaller than the female Shih Tzu it breeds with by a pound or two. It should also complement your female Shih Tzu in terms of attributes and qualities, and offer genetic strengths that will result in strong, quality offspring (e.g. a good coat).\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Work out a stud contract.\", \"描述\": \"Before breeding occurs, you should work out a contract with the stud's owner outlining obligations, fees, and payment. Stud fees can run between $250-$1000, depending on the quality of the male. but some contracts will outline other forms of payment to the stud's owner (e.g. the pick of the litter in lieu of cash payment). Both parties should sign and keep a copy of the contract.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Pair the Shih Tzus.\", \"描述\": \"Given that females are more comfortable in new environments than males, you should bring the female to the stud, and not vice versa. Depending on the details of your agreement with the stud's owner, you can either go back for breeding visits as scheduled, or leave the female in the custody of the stud owner during the breeding period. Make sure that all such terms are outlined before the process begins.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Confirm the female's pregnancy.\", \"描述\": \"The average gestation time for a Shih Tzu is between 59 to 65 days from the date of breeding. While signs of pregnancy may be misleading (e.g. increased appetite, weight gain), a veterinarian can confirm pregnancy around day 28. The veterinarian can also advise you about how to care for and feed your pregnant Shih Tzu.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Prepare for the whelping.\", \"描述\": \"Prepare for the birth of the puppies by making a whelping box (i.e. a place for your Shih Tzu to give birth). This could be a cardboard box with low edges, a wooden box, or any other box that is wide enough to accommodate the female and the puppies, once they are born. Introduce the whelping box early enough for your Shih Tzu to get used to it before giving birth; line it with towels to make it more comfortable.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Taking Care of the Shih Tzus\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Monitor the birth.\", \"描述\": \"Approximately 24 hours before whelping, the female's temperature will drop. As the time to give birth approaches, she will begin to demonstrate more signs of discomfort (panting, seeming restless). For Shih Tzus, whelping generally lasts 3-8 hours, depending on the number of puppies and the strength of contractions. Dogs are generally able to give birth without assistance, but you should be present to do the following (when, and if, needed):\\nRemoving the placental membrane or cutting the umbilical cord in the event that the mother does not do it on her own\\nCount the placentas delivered to make sure that no placentas have been retained\\nCall the veterinarian in the event of an emergency (e.g. two hours or more between delivery of puppies in the litter, a common issue for small dogs like Shih Tzus)\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Look after the puppies.\", \"描述\": \"Puppies should be weighed every day to make sure they're growing, and that they are healthy. Make sure that all puppies are nursing properly, and that they're kept warm; a heating pad or heating lamp can be used, if necessary. Once puppies are weaned from their mother, they will need to be fed; at this point, it is wise to start socializing the puppies to improve their temperament and get them accustomed to canine and human interactions.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Take care of the dam.\", \"描述\": \"After giving birth, the female will require some extra attention. After whelping, she will need three to four times more food than her regular diet in order to nourish her puppies. Be sure that she consumes calcium, phosphorous, and vitamin D to avoid eclampsia.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Selling Your Puppies\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Register the litter.\", \"描述\": \"Register your litter with the American Kennel Club shortly after whelping. This will demonstrate to potential buyers that you're a responsible breeder, and it will establish each individual puppy as an important part of the betterment of their breed. New owners of these puppies will have access to the group's events, services, and information.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Establish your price range.\", \"描述\": \"The price of Shih Tzu puppies can range tremendously, so you should set a price for yours and stick to it. Prices is based on whether or not the puppies have already been vaccinated, the prices of other local breeders, and your reputation as a breeder. Being consistent about your prices will give you credibility as a serious breeder.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Find good homes for your puppies.\", \"描述\": \"You should put a lot of thought and effort into choosing new owners for your Shih Tzu puppies, and make sure that potential owners are making the right choice for their lifestyles. Shih Tzus are excellent companion dogs who do not require a lot of exercise, but require daily grooming; if buyers are looking for a more playful and energetic breed, or if you simply do not think a Shih Tzu is what they want, do not sell to them. Good breeders are responsible for the well-being of their puppies long after they are sold.\"}]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
6,954 |
How to Breed Superworms
|
1. Pupating Larval Superworms
1-1. Purchase about 50 to 100 superworms.
This is a good starting number for beginning your own superworm colony. You can purchase live superworm larvae online or from a pet supply store in your area.
If you purchase superworms online, check to make sure that the worms you are buying are shipped live.
1-2. Place each larva in an individual, ventilated container.
You can use plastic film canisters, partitioned craft boxes, condiment cups, or empty plastic cosmetic jars for this purpose. Poke or drill a small hole in the lid of each container so that your superworms can breathe.
It’s important to store your pupating superworms in their own containers so that adults and other larvae won’t nibble on them while they mature.
Isolating the superworms in dark containers will also stimulate the pupation process, which could otherwise take up to 5 months to occur naturally.
1-3. Put a little substrate in each container.
Wheat bran or oatmeal will work well for this purpose. Use just enough to cover the bottom of the container. The substrate will serve as both bedding and a source of nourishment for the superworm larvae.
There’s no need to put any additional food in the containers for the superworm larvae.
Some breeders recommend against using substrate altogether, since any source of food can slow down the pupating process. If you choose to leave out the substrate, make sure the larvae are already full size (about 2 inches (51 mm) long) before isolating them.
1-4. Keep the containers in a warm, dark place for about 10 days.
Once the superworms and substrate are in their containers, put the containers in a dark area, such as a drawer or cabinet. Make sure that the storage area is warm, preferably around 80 °F (27 °C).
It is especially important to keep your superworms in a dark place if you are using transparent or translucent containers, such as glass jars or clear plastic condiment cups.
1-5. Check the larvae to see if they have transformed into pupae.
Peek in on your superworm larvae occasionally over the next week to 10 days. After a few days, you should notice that most of your superworms have curled up into a “c” or “e” shape. By the end of a week or so, they should begin to transform into “alien”-looking pupae, with a shorter, cream-colored body and ridges that will eventually become legs.
Any larvae that are stiff and straight or have turned dark in color are probably dead. Discard any dead larvae and replace them with live ones.
1-6. Wait about 2 weeks for the pupae to mature.
Check the pupae occasionally to look for signs that they are maturing, such as darkening of the legs. It will take about 2 more weeks for the pupae to transform into beetles.
Continue to store the pupae in separate containers until they mature. If you put the pupae together, the beetles that mature first might snack on the other pupae.
2. Creating a Habitat for Superworm Beetles
2-1. Select a housing container with sides at least 5 inches (13 cm) high.
Once your superworms mature into beetles, you will need to offer them a habitat where they can thrive and breed. Look for a container with smooth sides that is ventilated (e.g., with either a screened lid or a solid lid with a mesh-covered air hole) and easy to clean. A few good housing options include:
A small glass or plastic aquarium or small animal habitat.
A plastic food storage bin.
A kitty litter tray.
2-2. Put 2 inches (5.1 cm) to 3 inches (7.6 cm) of substrate in the container.
Use an edible substrate material such as rolled oats, oat bran, wheat germ, or wheat bran. This material will serve as bedding, a source of food, and a place for your beetles to lay their eggs.
You may find it difficult to remove your beetles from the bedding if you use a coarse-grained substrate, such as whole oats. You can solve this problem by grinding up the substrate material with a food processor.
2-3. Add a piece of fruit or vegetable to the top of the substrate.
Offer your superworm beetles a piece of carrot, a slice of potato, or a little bit of fruit. This will provide both food and a source moisture for the beetles. This is critical for preventing your beetles from eating each other and any eggs and larvae in the substrate.
Change out your fruit or vegetable daily to prevent it from getting moldy.
If you wish, you can keep the fruit or vegetable pieces off the substrate by placing them on a section of paper egg crate.
Don’t put a dish of water in the habitat, or it could cause the substrate to become moldy. Your beetles will get enough moisture from the fruit and vegetable pieces.
You can also lightly mist the substrate with water every other day if you wish. Take care not to let it get too damp, however, or mold could develop.
2-4. Keep the habitat at 70 °F (21 °C) to 80 °F (27 °C).
House your beetles in a warm environment. Superworm beetles are temperature sensitive, and will die if they become too hot or too cold.
If necessary, you can use a heat source to warm up your superworm habitat, such as a terrarium heating pad. Monitor the temperature of the habitat carefully to make sure the beetles don’t overheat.
Never put your superworms or superworm beetles in the refrigerator. Unlike mealworms, the superworms will die if they are exposed to temperatures below 60 °F (16 °C).
3. Breeding Adult Superworm Beetles
3-1. Place the adult beetles in the habitat.
Once your pupae mature into adult beetles, you can safely remove them from their individual containers and put them together in the prepared habitat. The adult beetles will breed and lay tiny eggs in the substrate.
A female superworm beetle can lay up to 500 eggs in her lifetime. Superworm beetles are fertile for their entire adult lives.
Most adult superworm beetles live about 5 months.
It may take a few weeks for your beetles to start producing eggs and larvae.
Check the habitat occasionally for any dead beetles or larvae, and remove them.
3-2. Move the beetles to a new container every 2 weeks to protect the larvae.
Set up a second habitat with fresh substrate and carefully transfer the adult beetles to their new environment. This will prevent them from eating their eggs and larvae before they have a chance to mature.
If you have relatively few adult beetles in your habitat, you may be able to wait up to 4 weeks before switching them out.
3-3. Allow the baby superworms to mature in the original habitat.
Keep the newly hatched larvae in the habitat and continue to feed them pieces of fresh fruit or vegetables until you are ready to feed them to your animals or set them aside for breeding. It may take a few weeks or a few months for the larvae to reach their full size.
Transfer any larvae you wish to breed into individual breeding containers.
Tips
Superworms are very sensitive to fumes and airborne contaminants. If you can, store them in an area that is well-ventilated and free of smoke, perfumes, chemical fumes, incense, or aerosol sprays.[17]
X
Research source
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:58:40",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Pupating Larval Superworms\\n1-1. Purchase about 50 to 100 superworms.\\nThis is a good starting number for beginning your own superworm colony. You can purchase live superworm larvae online or from a pet supply store in your area.\\nIf you purchase superworms online, check to make sure that the worms you are buying are shipped live.\\n1-2. Place each larva in an individual, ventilated container.\\nYou can use plastic film canisters, partitioned craft boxes, condiment cups, or empty plastic cosmetic jars for this purpose. Poke or drill a small hole in the lid of each container so that your superworms can breathe.\\nIt’s important to store your pupating superworms in their own containers so that adults and other larvae won’t nibble on them while they mature.\\nIsolating the superworms in dark containers will also stimulate the pupation process, which could otherwise take up to 5 months to occur naturally.\\n1-3. Put a little substrate in each container.\\nWheat bran or oatmeal will work well for this purpose. Use just enough to cover the bottom of the container. The substrate will serve as both bedding and a source of nourishment for the superworm larvae.\\nThere’s no need to put any additional food in the containers for the superworm larvae.\\nSome breeders recommend against using substrate altogether, since any source of food can slow down the pupating process. If you choose to leave out the substrate, make sure the larvae are already full size (about 2 inches (51 mm) long) before isolating them.\\n1-4. Keep the containers in a warm, dark place for about 10 days.\\nOnce the superworms and substrate are in their containers, put the containers in a dark area, such as a drawer or cabinet. Make sure that the storage area is warm, preferably around 80 °F (27 °C).\\nIt is especially important to keep your superworms in a dark place if you are using transparent or translucent containers, such as glass jars or clear plastic condiment cups.\\n1-5. Check the larvae to see if they have transformed into pupae.\\nPeek in on your superworm larvae occasionally over the next week to 10 days. After a few days, you should notice that most of your superworms have curled up into a “c” or “e” shape. By the end of a week or so, they should begin to transform into “alien”-looking pupae, with a shorter, cream-colored body and ridges that will eventually become legs.\\nAny larvae that are stiff and straight or have turned dark in color are probably dead. Discard any dead larvae and replace them with live ones.\\n1-6. Wait about 2 weeks for the pupae to mature.\\nCheck the pupae occasionally to look for signs that they are maturing, such as darkening of the legs. It will take about 2 more weeks for the pupae to transform into beetles.\\nContinue to store the pupae in separate containers until they mature. If you put the pupae together, the beetles that mature first might snack on the other pupae.\\n2. Creating a Habitat for Superworm Beetles\\n2-1. Select a housing container with sides at least 5 inches (13 cm) high.\\nOnce your superworms mature into beetles, you will need to offer them a habitat where they can thrive and breed. Look for a container with smooth sides that is ventilated (e.g., with either a screened lid or a solid lid with a mesh-covered air hole) and easy to clean. A few good housing options include:\\nA small glass or plastic aquarium or small animal habitat.\\nA plastic food storage bin.\\nA kitty litter tray.\\n2-2. Put 2 inches (5.1 cm) to 3 inches (7.6 cm) of substrate in the container.\\nUse an edible substrate material such as rolled oats, oat bran, wheat germ, or wheat bran. This material will serve as bedding, a source of food, and a place for your beetles to lay their eggs.\\nYou may find it difficult to remove your beetles from the bedding if you use a coarse-grained substrate, such as whole oats. You can solve this problem by grinding up the substrate material with a food processor.\\n2-3. Add a piece of fruit or vegetable to the top of the substrate.\\nOffer your superworm beetles a piece of carrot, a slice of potato, or a little bit of fruit. This will provide both food and a source moisture for the beetles. This is critical for preventing your beetles from eating each other and any eggs and larvae in the substrate.\\nChange out your fruit or vegetable daily to prevent it from getting moldy.\\nIf you wish, you can keep the fruit or vegetable pieces off the substrate by placing them on a section of paper egg crate.\\nDon’t put a dish of water in the habitat, or it could cause the substrate to become moldy. Your beetles will get enough moisture from the fruit and vegetable pieces.\\nYou can also lightly mist the substrate with water every other day if you wish. Take care not to let it get too damp, however, or mold could develop.\\n2-4. Keep the habitat at 70 °F (21 °C) to 80 °F (27 °C).\\nHouse your beetles in a warm environment. Superworm beetles are temperature sensitive, and will die if they become too hot or too cold.\\nIf necessary, you can use a heat source to warm up your superworm habitat, such as a terrarium heating pad. Monitor the temperature of the habitat carefully to make sure the beetles don’t overheat.\\nNever put your superworms or superworm beetles in the refrigerator. Unlike mealworms, the superworms will die if they are exposed to temperatures below 60 °F (16 °C).\\n3. Breeding Adult Superworm Beetles\\n3-1. Place the adult beetles in the habitat.\\nOnce your pupae mature into adult beetles, you can safely remove them from their individual containers and put them together in the prepared habitat. The adult beetles will breed and lay tiny eggs in the substrate.\\nA female superworm beetle can lay up to 500 eggs in her lifetime. Superworm beetles are fertile for their entire adult lives.\\nMost adult superworm beetles live about 5 months.\\nIt may take a few weeks for your beetles to start producing eggs and larvae.\\nCheck the habitat occasionally for any dead beetles or larvae, and remove them.\\n3-2. Move the beetles to a new container every 2 weeks to protect the larvae.\\nSet up a second habitat with fresh substrate and carefully transfer the adult beetles to their new environment. This will prevent them from eating their eggs and larvae before they have a chance to mature.\\nIf you have relatively few adult beetles in your habitat, you may be able to wait up to 4 weeks before switching them out.\\n3-3. Allow the baby superworms to mature in the original habitat.\\nKeep the newly hatched larvae in the habitat and continue to feed them pieces of fresh fruit or vegetables until you are ready to feed them to your animals or set them aside for breeding. It may take a few weeks or a few months for the larvae to reach their full size.\\nTransfer any larvae you wish to breed into individual breeding containers.\\nTips\\nSuperworms are very sensitive to fumes and airborne contaminants. If you can, store them in an area that is well-ventilated and free of smoke, perfumes, chemical fumes, incense, or aerosol sprays.[17]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Superworms are the larvae of darkling beetles. These large worms resemble mealworms and can grow up to 2 inches (51 mm) or longer. They are an excellent source of protein for large reptiles as well as some species of fish and birds (including chickens). Breeding your own superworms is a relatively easy process. Start by isolating some larvae in individual containers to promote pupation. Once the mature beetles emerge, put them together in an appropriate breeding habitat and wait for your baby superworms to arrive.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Pupating Larval Superworms\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Purchase about 50 to 100 superworms.\", \"描述\": \"This is a good starting number for beginning your own superworm colony. You can purchase live superworm larvae online or from a pet supply store in your area.\\nIf you purchase superworms online, check to make sure that the worms you are buying are shipped live.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Place each larva in an individual, ventilated container.\", \"描述\": \"You can use plastic film canisters, partitioned craft boxes, condiment cups, or empty plastic cosmetic jars for this purpose. Poke or drill a small hole in the lid of each container so that your superworms can breathe.\\nIt’s important to store your pupating superworms in their own containers so that adults and other larvae won’t nibble on them while they mature.\\nIsolating the superworms in dark containers will also stimulate the pupation process, which could otherwise take up to 5 months to occur naturally.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Put a little substrate in each container.\", \"描述\": \"Wheat bran or oatmeal will work well for this purpose. Use just enough to cover the bottom of the container. The substrate will serve as both bedding and a source of nourishment for the superworm larvae.\\nThere’s no need to put any additional food in the containers for the superworm larvae.\\nSome breeders recommend against using substrate altogether, since any source of food can slow down the pupating process. If you choose to leave out the substrate, make sure the larvae are already full size (about 2 inches (51 mm) long) before isolating them.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Keep the containers in a warm, dark place for about 10 days.\", \"描述\": \"Once the superworms and substrate are in their containers, put the containers in a dark area, such as a drawer or cabinet. Make sure that the storage area is warm, preferably around 80 °F (27 °C).\\nIt is especially important to keep your superworms in a dark place if you are using transparent or translucent containers, such as glass jars or clear plastic condiment cups.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Check the larvae to see if they have transformed into pupae.\", \"描述\": \"Peek in on your superworm larvae occasionally over the next week to 10 days. After a few days, you should notice that most of your superworms have curled up into a “c” or “e” shape. By the end of a week or so, they should begin to transform into “alien”-looking pupae, with a shorter, cream-colored body and ridges that will eventually become legs.\\nAny larvae that are stiff and straight or have turned dark in color are probably dead. Discard any dead larvae and replace them with live ones.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Wait about 2 weeks for the pupae to mature.\", \"描述\": \"Check the pupae occasionally to look for signs that they are maturing, such as darkening of the legs. It will take about 2 more weeks for the pupae to transform into beetles.\\nContinue to store the pupae in separate containers until they mature. If you put the pupae together, the beetles that mature first might snack on the other pupae.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Creating a Habitat for Superworm Beetles\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Select a housing container with sides at least 5 inches (13 cm) high.\", \"描述\": \"Once your superworms mature into beetles, you will need to offer them a habitat where they can thrive and breed. Look for a container with smooth sides that is ventilated (e.g., with either a screened lid or a solid lid with a mesh-covered air hole) and easy to clean. A few good housing options include:\\nA small glass or plastic aquarium or small animal habitat.\\nA plastic food storage bin.\\nA kitty litter tray.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Put 2 inches (5.1 cm) to 3 inches (7.6 cm) of substrate in the container.\", \"描述\": \"Use an edible substrate material such as rolled oats, oat bran, wheat germ, or wheat bran. This material will serve as bedding, a source of food, and a place for your beetles to lay their eggs.\\nYou may find it difficult to remove your beetles from the bedding if you use a coarse-grained substrate, such as whole oats. You can solve this problem by grinding up the substrate material with a food processor.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Add a piece of fruit or vegetable to the top of the substrate.\", \"描述\": \"Offer your superworm beetles a piece of carrot, a slice of potato, or a little bit of fruit. This will provide both food and a source moisture for the beetles. This is critical for preventing your beetles from eating each other and any eggs and larvae in the substrate.\\nChange out your fruit or vegetable daily to prevent it from getting moldy.\\nIf you wish, you can keep the fruit or vegetable pieces off the substrate by placing them on a section of paper egg crate.\\nDon’t put a dish of water in the habitat, or it could cause the substrate to become moldy. Your beetles will get enough moisture from the fruit and vegetable pieces.\\nYou can also lightly mist the substrate with water every other day if you wish. Take care not to let it get too damp, however, or mold could develop.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Keep the habitat at 70 °F (21 °C) to 80 °F (27 °C).\", \"描述\": \"House your beetles in a warm environment. Superworm beetles are temperature sensitive, and will die if they become too hot or too cold.\\nIf necessary, you can use a heat source to warm up your superworm habitat, such as a terrarium heating pad. Monitor the temperature of the habitat carefully to make sure the beetles don’t overheat.\\nNever put your superworms or superworm beetles in the refrigerator. Unlike mealworms, the superworms will die if they are exposed to temperatures below 60 °F (16 °C).\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Breeding Adult Superworm Beetles\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Place the adult beetles in the habitat.\", \"描述\": \"Once your pupae mature into adult beetles, you can safely remove them from their individual containers and put them together in the prepared habitat. The adult beetles will breed and lay tiny eggs in the substrate.\\nA female superworm beetle can lay up to 500 eggs in her lifetime. Superworm beetles are fertile for their entire adult lives.\\nMost adult superworm beetles live about 5 months.\\nIt may take a few weeks for your beetles to start producing eggs and larvae.\\nCheck the habitat occasionally for any dead beetles or larvae, and remove them.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Move the beetles to a new container every 2 weeks to protect the larvae.\", \"描述\": \"Set up a second habitat with fresh substrate and carefully transfer the adult beetles to their new environment. This will prevent them from eating their eggs and larvae before they have a chance to mature.\\nIf you have relatively few adult beetles in your habitat, you may be able to wait up to 4 weeks before switching them out.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Allow the baby superworms to mature in the original habitat.\", \"描述\": \"Keep the newly hatched larvae in the habitat and continue to feed them pieces of fresh fruit or vegetables until you are ready to feed them to your animals or set them aside for breeding. It may take a few weeks or a few months for the larvae to reach their full size.\\nTransfer any larvae you wish to breed into individual breeding containers.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Superworms are very sensitive to fumes and airborne contaminants. If you can, store them in an area that is well-ventilated and free of smoke, perfumes, chemical fumes, incense, or aerosol sprays.[17]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
6,955 |
How to Breed Syrian Hamsters
|
1. Preparing to Breed Syrian Hamsters
1-1. Have a valid reason for breeding Syrian hamsters.
You should have a clear plan in place about what you are going to do with all these babies. Also, ensure you have enough space, money, and resources to house them all yourself, in case your breeding plans do not go as planned. Some options include:
Keeping them as pets.
Selling them as pets (though it is unlikely to provide you with much income).
Giving them away to good homes.
1-2. Consider how you will execute your plan.
You might think "I'll just give them away to good homes", but that is likely going to be harder than it sounds. Research the market before you begin breeding or you may end up with more hamsters than you have customers.
How will you advertise your hamsters? Good places to start include online, in the newspaper classified ads, and at the pet store (be sure to ask permission first).
1-3. Avoid breeding closely related hamsters.
If you already own some hamsters from the same family, you do not want to breed them with each other. When you allow brothers to mate with sisters, or fathers/daughters or mothers/sons, you create an inbred line of hamsters. Inbred lines can suffer from genetic flaws. For healthy hamsters, avoid inbreeding altogether.
1-4. Purchase an unrelated male and female hamster.
If the hamsters you have are all related, or if you do not yet have any, talk to several hamster breeders about where they get their stock. You only need one male and one female to get started. It is best to purchase them from different suppliers, to ensure the two breeding animals are not closely related.
It is can be a poor idea to buy breeding hamsters from chain pet stores. Some pet stores can treat their hamsters quite poorly. Many get their hamsters that have been bred in dirty and cramped locations.
Baby hamsters, if chosen from a commercial pet store, are likely to suffer from mental, physical and even fatal deformities. Also, the hamster very often have poor temperament, and have a poor coloring.
You might also contact a hamster breeder directly.
1-5. Make sure that the hamsters are about the same age.
Hamsters can start breeding as early as two months of age. However, it is best to let them grow to four to six months of age before beginning the breeding process. This improves the chances of a healthy litter.
1-6. Provide the hamsters with a comfortable environment.
This means cages of a good size that are at the very least 450 sq. inches or larger. Since many commercial cages are too small, you may have to a do-it-yourself project ahead of you. Careful planning is important if you plan to breed, as each hamster should have its own cage. Keep the hamsters in their separate cages, unless you are actively trying to breed them. When you first get the hamsters, keep the cages in the same room, but not close together. Each one should contain:
A food bowl with high-quality food (One of the best hamster foods by far is the Harry/Hazel Hamster mix.)
An inverted water bottle
Exercise toys
Anything else you think will make them feel more at home
1-7. Move the cages together after a week.
This will allow your male and female to see and smell each other. Let them become more social, but do not put them together in one cage yet.
Another way to let them get acquainted is to put them into separate exercise balls. While you are watching, let them roll around in their pods, smelling each other and interacting safely.
1-8. Introduce the hamsters when they come of age.
Once your hamsters are at least four months old, you can introduce them to each other in a third, neutral cage. If the female attacks the male, she is not ready to mate. Get him out of the cage as soon as possible, to avoid injury.
2. Mating Your Hamsters
2-1. Determine whether the female is in heat.
You cannot mate your hamsters if the female is not going to be receptive to the male. At this age, she could go into heat every four to five days.
Gently stroke the female on the bottom. If her tail goes erect, she is in heat and ready to mate with the male.
2-2. Only place the hamsters together when the female is in heat.
Hamsters are territorial animals. If they do not want to mate, they will likely ending up fighting, leading to injury, or even death. Check the female every day until she is in heat before placing them together.
2-3. Place the hamsters in the same cage when the female is in heat.
Either gently place her in the male's cage or put both hamsters in a neutral third cage. Do not place the male in the female's cage, however, as she will likely fight him to protect her territory.
2-4. Supervise the mating process.
If all goes well, the female's tail should go erect, and the male should mount her more than once. This may last for around 30 minutes, and the male will likely clean himself between attempts.
Be watchful for fights, even if the female seems receptive.
2-5. Separate them when they are finished.
You will be able to tell when they are finished because they will suddenly seem disinterested in each other. When this happens, move the female back into her cage.
2-6. Make a record of the date.
An important part of breeding hamsters is keeping good records. Either mark mating dates on a calendar or write them down in a notebook.
Hamsters hibernate when the temperature dips below 50°F (10°C). They will not breed at that temperature.
3. Preparing for Birth
3-1. Observe the female for a week.
Sometimes, a hamster's behavior changes noticeably when she gets pregnant. Note if she is being strangely quiet, cleaning herself more often, or eating and drinking more than usual. Another common sign is an instinct to gather up large nests. If you see these telltale behavior changes, she is likely pregnant.
3-2. Figure out when she will give birth.
Syrian hamsters usually grow and carry their babies for 15-18 days before giving birth. Look up the date on which you last mated your hamsters and add 15 days to it. That is the earliest likely due date for your new litter.
3-3. Watch for physical changes in the female.
You will not be able to tell she is pregnant until just a few days before she gives birth. By ten days after the mating, you should be able to see her belly clearly swelling, as with human pregnancies.
3-4. Provide her with nesting and bedding materials.
A pregnant female will have a natural instinct to build herself a big nest. Give her extra bedding materials like paper towels or bathroom tissues so she can shred them up for her nest.
You might also offer a safe (non toxic, no ink, not sharp) bedding material like Pennine “Curl Up” Hamster bedding.
3-5. Prepare the cage for the birth and babies.
Make sure you have cleaned the cage five days or so before the due date, and that there is extra food and bedding in the cage. Prepare ahead of time so you do not disturb the mother and babies for the first week after birth.
3-6. Do not handle the hamster close to her due date.
You want to keep her as calm and relaxed as possible. Keep her environment quiet and soothing; dim or remove bright lights. Keep curious pets like dogs and cats away from her as she gets ready to deliver her babies.
Hamsters usually give birth without problems if you wait until they are old enough to mate (four months).
The birth will likely happen at night when everything is quiet.
Litters can be as small as 4 or as large as 16 babies.
4. Taking Care of the New Litter
4-1. Do not disturb the new mother or her babies.
Female hamsters sometimes eat their own babies if they get stressed out. It is very important to keep the environment as calm as possible. Though you might be eager to play with the babies, give the mother space and peace for their safety.
At first, the babies will look pink and hairless. They are born with their eyes closed.
4-2. Continue to care for her after the delivery.
While you do not want to disturb her, you do still need to make sure she has everything she needs in her cage. For the first week and a half to two weeks or so, discretely refill the mother's food bowl and water bottle.
You do not need to provide the babies with anything at this point. They will get everything they need from nursing.
4-3. Begin feeding the babies about one week after birth.
Scatter small portions of broccoli, grated carrot, wheat germ, or tofu in their nest for them to eat. The mother will also store food in her cheek pouches, and bring it back to the nest to feed her babies.
4-4. Check for healthy development in the babies.
A week after birth, they will start to grow fur. You should just be able to tell what colors they are. The "pups" will also start making little noises at this age. One or two adventurous babies may leave the nest, but do not worry if the mother picks them up in her mouth and puts them back.
4-5. Clean the cage at two weeks.
Enough time should have passed now to allow the mother settle into her new role, so you can give the cage a much-needed cleaning. It is also your first opportunity to handle the babies, which is an important step in socializing them to humans. By handling them at two weeks, you make them more comfortable with human interactions.
Get your hands "dirty" with the scent of the used litter before touching the babies. This prevents the mother from rejecting or attacking them later.
Move the hamsters into another cage one by one.
When cleaning the cage, avoid completely destroying the nest.
Hamsters will usually have a “toilet” area in the cage. Concentrate your cleaning there, and leave the nest more or less intact.
If the nest is soaked or filthy, however, go ahead and replace it with fresh materials.
4-6. Adjust the cage for the babies.
While cleaning the cage, make a few changes to transition them into adulthood. Add a second food bowl to the cage. The mother's water bottle will be too high for the babies, so place a second one at a lower position. You could also place a raised platform under the mother's bottle so the babies can reach it.
Do not lower the mother's water bottle to the babies' height because then the mother will not be able to reach it.
4-7. Check the babies’ two-week development.
At this age, the babies should have all their fur and be running about independently. Though they were born with closed eyes and ears, they should be starting to open up now.
4-8. Determine the babies' genders at around three and a half to four weeks.
This can be a tricky process. Look at the distance between each hamster's anus and genital opening. The distance on a male will be longer than the distance on a female. By four weeks, the males' testicles should also be noticeable, as should the nipples on the females' bellies.
4-9. Separate the males and females once you determine the genders.
Hamsters have a lot of loose skin, and you can hold them by the scruff of their necks or by the loose skin down their backs. Be careful not to drop them, and be ready to return them to the cage, if you start to lose your grip.
4-10. Double check the babies' genders.
Not all hamsters mature at the same rate, so you have to make sure you gendered them correctly. For a few days after you separate them into male and female cages, keep checking gender every day. You might notice testicles one day that you did not see before in a cage of baby “females.” If so, switch the baby to the correct cage.
If you are unsure about the sex of your babies, take them to your vet or an experienced hamster breeder for help. You want to avoid accidental breeding of siblings.
4-11. Get the babies used to human handling.
Place your hand in the cage so they can smell it, and let them climb up into your palm if they want to. You can also scoop them up with a small cup and start gently petting them on the back.
The babies will be ready for their new homes 35 days their birth.
4-12. Line up customers early.
Do not wait too long to start looking for people to purchase your hamsters, because the 35 days goes by fast. Keep your customers updated as the hamsters approach 35 days old, so they can prepare their own homes.
4-13. Sell the hamsters.
Make sure you send them off to reliable homes, with families that will love them. Provide the new owners with information on hamsters and the hamster's care to this point. You want the babies to have the best new start you can provide.
4-14. Separate hamsters after two to three months of age.
If you keep any of the babies, know that Syrians are highly territorial. When they reach two to three months of age, separate all hamsters into their own cages.
Tips
Do not clean the cage before the babies reach one week. If your scent gets on the babies, the mother might neglect or attack them. Do not touch them at all until one week has passed.
Once the hamsters have mated, separate the male and female back into their own cages. Isolate the pregnant female from noise and bright lights.
Breeding hamsters is a big investment of both time and money. Be sure you are committed to this before you begin breeding hamsters.
Warnings
Despite what pet shops say, an 80 x 50 centimeters hamster cage is the smallest acceptable size for a hamster cage. Make sure that the babies cannot escape, as they are much smaller than the adult hamsters. Using a cage with clear solid sides (like a fish tank) will prevent the babies from escaping or getting caught in wire floored cages
Breed healthy animals with good temperaments. This increases the likelihood that the babies will also have good health and temperament.
Line up customers before breeding the hamsters.
When the babies are born, do not touch them. The mother could abandon or even cannibalize her own babies.
Avoid loud noises, bright lights and commotion.
Have the information for a hamster-savvy vet who can answer your questions along the way. Develop a relationship with him or her before you start breeding hamsters.
Do not allow anybody to buy a hamster if the cage they intend to put him or her in is smaller than 80 x 50 centimeters, or they seem unprepared for caring for a hamster.
Mother hamsters can have up to 20 babies or more, so make sure that you have enough bedding, food and space in the cage.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:58:40",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Preparing to Breed Syrian Hamsters\\n1-1. Have a valid reason for breeding Syrian hamsters.\\nYou should have a clear plan in place about what you are going to do with all these babies. Also, ensure you have enough space, money, and resources to house them all yourself, in case your breeding plans do not go as planned. Some options include:\\nKeeping them as pets.\\nSelling them as pets (though it is unlikely to provide you with much income).\\nGiving them away to good homes.\\n1-2. Consider how you will execute your plan.\\nYou might think \\\"I'll just give them away to good homes\\\", but that is likely going to be harder than it sounds. Research the market before you begin breeding or you may end up with more hamsters than you have customers.\\nHow will you advertise your hamsters? Good places to start include online, in the newspaper classified ads, and at the pet store (be sure to ask permission first).\\n1-3. Avoid breeding closely related hamsters.\\nIf you already own some hamsters from the same family, you do not want to breed them with each other. When you allow brothers to mate with sisters, or fathers/daughters or mothers/sons, you create an inbred line of hamsters. Inbred lines can suffer from genetic flaws. For healthy hamsters, avoid inbreeding altogether.\\n1-4. Purchase an unrelated male and female hamster.\\nIf the hamsters you have are all related, or if you do not yet have any, talk to several hamster breeders about where they get their stock. You only need one male and one female to get started. It is best to purchase them from different suppliers, to ensure the two breeding animals are not closely related.\\nIt is can be a poor idea to buy breeding hamsters from chain pet stores. Some pet stores can treat their hamsters quite poorly. Many get their hamsters that have been bred in dirty and cramped locations.\\nBaby hamsters, if chosen from a commercial pet store, are likely to suffer from mental, physical and even fatal deformities. Also, the hamster very often have poor temperament, and have a poor coloring.\\nYou might also contact a hamster breeder directly.\\n1-5. Make sure that the hamsters are about the same age.\\nHamsters can start breeding as early as two months of age. However, it is best to let them grow to four to six months of age before beginning the breeding process. This improves the chances of a healthy litter.\\n1-6. Provide the hamsters with a comfortable environment.\\nThis means cages of a good size that are at the very least 450 sq. inches or larger. Since many commercial cages are too small, you may have to a do-it-yourself project ahead of you. Careful planning is important if you plan to breed, as each hamster should have its own cage. Keep the hamsters in their separate cages, unless you are actively trying to breed them. When you first get the hamsters, keep the cages in the same room, but not close together. Each one should contain:\\nA food bowl with high-quality food (One of the best hamster foods by far is the Harry/Hazel Hamster mix.)\\nAn inverted water bottle\\nExercise toys\\nAnything else you think will make them feel more at home\\n1-7. Move the cages together after a week.\\nThis will allow your male and female to see and smell each other. Let them become more social, but do not put them together in one cage yet.\\nAnother way to let them get acquainted is to put them into separate exercise balls. While you are watching, let them roll around in their pods, smelling each other and interacting safely.\\n1-8. Introduce the hamsters when they come of age.\\nOnce your hamsters are at least four months old, you can introduce them to each other in a third, neutral cage. If the female attacks the male, she is not ready to mate. Get him out of the cage as soon as possible, to avoid injury.\\n2. Mating Your Hamsters\\n2-1. Determine whether the female is in heat.\\nYou cannot mate your hamsters if the female is not going to be receptive to the male. At this age, she could go into heat every four to five days.\\nGently stroke the female on the bottom. If her tail goes erect, she is in heat and ready to mate with the male.\\n2-2. Only place the hamsters together when the female is in heat.\\nHamsters are territorial animals. If they do not want to mate, they will likely ending up fighting, leading to injury, or even death. Check the female every day until she is in heat before placing them together.\\n2-3. Place the hamsters in the same cage when the female is in heat.\\nEither gently place her in the male's cage or put both hamsters in a neutral third cage. Do not place the male in the female's cage, however, as she will likely fight him to protect her territory.\\n2-4. Supervise the mating process.\\nIf all goes well, the female's tail should go erect, and the male should mount her more than once. This may last for around 30 minutes, and the male will likely clean himself between attempts.\\nBe watchful for fights, even if the female seems receptive.\\n2-5. Separate them when they are finished.\\nYou will be able to tell when they are finished because they will suddenly seem disinterested in each other. When this happens, move the female back into her cage.\\n2-6. Make a record of the date.\\nAn important part of breeding hamsters is keeping good records. Either mark mating dates on a calendar or write them down in a notebook.\\nHamsters hibernate when the temperature dips below 50°F (10°C). They will not breed at that temperature.\\n3. Preparing for Birth\\n3-1. Observe the female for a week.\\nSometimes, a hamster's behavior changes noticeably when she gets pregnant. Note if she is being strangely quiet, cleaning herself more often, or eating and drinking more than usual. Another common sign is an instinct to gather up large nests. If you see these telltale behavior changes, she is likely pregnant.\\n3-2. Figure out when she will give birth.\\nSyrian hamsters usually grow and carry their babies for 15-18 days before giving birth. Look up the date on which you last mated your hamsters and add 15 days to it. That is the earliest likely due date for your new litter.\\n3-3. Watch for physical changes in the female.\\nYou will not be able to tell she is pregnant until just a few days before she gives birth. By ten days after the mating, you should be able to see her belly clearly swelling, as with human pregnancies.\\n3-4. Provide her with nesting and bedding materials.\\nA pregnant female will have a natural instinct to build herself a big nest. Give her extra bedding materials like paper towels or bathroom tissues so she can shred them up for her nest.\\nYou might also offer a safe (non toxic, no ink, not sharp) bedding material like Pennine “Curl Up” Hamster bedding.\\n3-5. Prepare the cage for the birth and babies.\\nMake sure you have cleaned the cage five days or so before the due date, and that there is extra food and bedding in the cage. Prepare ahead of time so you do not disturb the mother and babies for the first week after birth.\\n3-6. Do not handle the hamster close to her due date.\\nYou want to keep her as calm and relaxed as possible. Keep her environment quiet and soothing; dim or remove bright lights. Keep curious pets like dogs and cats away from her as she gets ready to deliver her babies.\\nHamsters usually give birth without problems if you wait until they are old enough to mate (four months).\\nThe birth will likely happen at night when everything is quiet.\\nLitters can be as small as 4 or as large as 16 babies.\\n4. Taking Care of the New Litter\\n4-1. Do not disturb the new mother or her babies.\\nFemale hamsters sometimes eat their own babies if they get stressed out. It is very important to keep the environment as calm as possible. Though you might be eager to play with the babies, give the mother space and peace for their safety.\\nAt first, the babies will look pink and hairless. They are born with their eyes closed.\\n4-2. Continue to care for her after the delivery.\\nWhile you do not want to disturb her, you do still need to make sure she has everything she needs in her cage. For the first week and a half to two weeks or so, discretely refill the mother's food bowl and water bottle.\\nYou do not need to provide the babies with anything at this point. They will get everything they need from nursing.\\n4-3. Begin feeding the babies about one week after birth.\\nScatter small portions of broccoli, grated carrot, wheat germ, or tofu in their nest for them to eat. The mother will also store food in her cheek pouches, and bring it back to the nest to feed her babies.\\n4-4. Check for healthy development in the babies.\\nA week after birth, they will start to grow fur. You should just be able to tell what colors they are. The \\\"pups\\\" will also start making little noises at this age. One or two adventurous babies may leave the nest, but do not worry if the mother picks them up in her mouth and puts them back.\\n4-5. Clean the cage at two weeks.\\nEnough time should have passed now to allow the mother settle into her new role, so you can give the cage a much-needed cleaning. It is also your first opportunity to handle the babies, which is an important step in socializing them to humans. By handling them at two weeks, you make them more comfortable with human interactions.\\nGet your hands \\\"dirty\\\" with the scent of the used litter before touching the babies. This prevents the mother from rejecting or attacking them later.\\nMove the hamsters into another cage one by one.\\nWhen cleaning the cage, avoid completely destroying the nest.\\nHamsters will usually have a “toilet” area in the cage. Concentrate your cleaning there, and leave the nest more or less intact.\\nIf the nest is soaked or filthy, however, go ahead and replace it with fresh materials.\\n4-6. Adjust the cage for the babies.\\nWhile cleaning the cage, make a few changes to transition them into adulthood. Add a second food bowl to the cage. The mother's water bottle will be too high for the babies, so place a second one at a lower position. You could also place a raised platform under the mother's bottle so the babies can reach it.\\nDo not lower the mother's water bottle to the babies' height because then the mother will not be able to reach it.\\n4-7. Check the babies’ two-week development.\\nAt this age, the babies should have all their fur and be running about independently. Though they were born with closed eyes and ears, they should be starting to open up now.\\n4-8. Determine the babies' genders at around three and a half to four weeks.\\nThis can be a tricky process. Look at the distance between each hamster's anus and genital opening. The distance on a male will be longer than the distance on a female. By four weeks, the males' testicles should also be noticeable, as should the nipples on the females' bellies.\\n4-9. Separate the males and females once you determine the genders.\\nHamsters have a lot of loose skin, and you can hold them by the scruff of their necks or by the loose skin down their backs. Be careful not to drop them, and be ready to return them to the cage, if you start to lose your grip.\\n4-10. Double check the babies' genders.\\nNot all hamsters mature at the same rate, so you have to make sure you gendered them correctly. For a few days after you separate them into male and female cages, keep checking gender every day. You might notice testicles one day that you did not see before in a cage of baby “females.” If so, switch the baby to the correct cage.\\nIf you are unsure about the sex of your babies, take them to your vet or an experienced hamster breeder for help. You want to avoid accidental breeding of siblings.\\n4-11. Get the babies used to human handling.\\nPlace your hand in the cage so they can smell it, and let them climb up into your palm if they want to. You can also scoop them up with a small cup and start gently petting them on the back.\\nThe babies will be ready for their new homes 35 days their birth.\\n4-12. Line up customers early.\\nDo not wait too long to start looking for people to purchase your hamsters, because the 35 days goes by fast. Keep your customers updated as the hamsters approach 35 days old, so they can prepare their own homes.\\n4-13. Sell the hamsters.\\nMake sure you send them off to reliable homes, with families that will love them. Provide the new owners with information on hamsters and the hamster's care to this point. You want the babies to have the best new start you can provide.\\n4-14. Separate hamsters after two to three months of age.\\nIf you keep any of the babies, know that Syrians are highly territorial. When they reach two to three months of age, separate all hamsters into their own cages.\\nTips\\nDo not clean the cage before the babies reach one week. If your scent gets on the babies, the mother might neglect or attack them. Do not touch them at all until one week has passed.\\nOnce the hamsters have mated, separate the male and female back into their own cages. Isolate the pregnant female from noise and bright lights.\\nBreeding hamsters is a big investment of both time and money. Be sure you are committed to this before you begin breeding hamsters.\\nWarnings\\nDespite what pet shops say, an 80 x 50 centimeters hamster cage is the smallest acceptable size for a hamster cage. Make sure that the babies cannot escape, as they are much smaller than the adult hamsters. Using a cage with clear solid sides (like a fish tank) will prevent the babies from escaping or getting caught in wire floored cages\\nBreed healthy animals with good temperaments. This increases the likelihood that the babies will also have good health and temperament.\\nLine up customers before breeding the hamsters.\\nWhen the babies are born, do not touch them. The mother could abandon or even cannibalize her own babies.\\nAvoid loud noises, bright lights and commotion.\\nHave the information for a hamster-savvy vet who can answer your questions along the way. Develop a relationship with him or her before you start breeding hamsters.\\nDo not allow anybody to buy a hamster if the cage they intend to put him or her in is smaller than 80 x 50 centimeters, or they seem unprepared for caring for a hamster.\\nMother hamsters can have up to 20 babies or more, so make sure that you have enough bedding, food and space in the cage.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Are you considering breeding hamsters to add to your current hamster family? Plan ahead and educate yourself before adding more fuzzy friends to your household. Hamster breeding is not something to take lightly. Make a firm commitment to your plan before going through with it.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Preparing to Breed Syrian Hamsters\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Have a valid reason for breeding Syrian hamsters.\", \"描述\": \"You should have a clear plan in place about what you are going to do with all these babies. Also, ensure you have enough space, money, and resources to house them all yourself, in case your breeding plans do not go as planned. Some options include:\\nKeeping them as pets.\\nSelling them as pets (though it is unlikely to provide you with much income).\\nGiving them away to good homes.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Consider how you will execute your plan.\", \"描述\": \"You might think \\\"I'll just give them away to good homes\\\", but that is likely going to be harder than it sounds. Research the market before you begin breeding or you may end up with more hamsters than you have customers.\\nHow will you advertise your hamsters? Good places to start include online, in the newspaper classified ads, and at the pet store (be sure to ask permission first).\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Avoid breeding closely related hamsters.\", \"描述\": \"If you already own some hamsters from the same family, you do not want to breed them with each other. When you allow brothers to mate with sisters, or fathers/daughters or mothers/sons, you create an inbred line of hamsters. Inbred lines can suffer from genetic flaws. For healthy hamsters, avoid inbreeding altogether.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Purchase an unrelated male and female hamster.\", \"描述\": \"If the hamsters you have are all related, or if you do not yet have any, talk to several hamster breeders about where they get their stock. You only need one male and one female to get started. It is best to purchase them from different suppliers, to ensure the two breeding animals are not closely related.\\nIt is can be a poor idea to buy breeding hamsters from chain pet stores. Some pet stores can treat their hamsters quite poorly. Many get their hamsters that have been bred in dirty and cramped locations.\\nBaby hamsters, if chosen from a commercial pet store, are likely to suffer from mental, physical and even fatal deformities. Also, the hamster very often have poor temperament, and have a poor coloring.\\nYou might also contact a hamster breeder directly.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Make sure that the hamsters are about the same age.\", \"描述\": \"Hamsters can start breeding as early as two months of age. However, it is best to let them grow to four to six months of age before beginning the breeding process. This improves the chances of a healthy litter.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Provide the hamsters with a comfortable environment.\", \"描述\": \"This means cages of a good size that are at the very least 450 sq. inches or larger. Since many commercial cages are too small, you may have to a do-it-yourself project ahead of you. Careful planning is important if you plan to breed, as each hamster should have its own cage. Keep the hamsters in their separate cages, unless you are actively trying to breed them. When you first get the hamsters, keep the cages in the same room, but not close together. Each one should contain:\\nA food bowl with high-quality food (One of the best hamster foods by far is the Harry/Hazel Hamster mix.)\\nAn inverted water bottle\\nExercise toys\\nAnything else you think will make them feel more at home\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Move the cages together after a week.\", \"描述\": \"This will allow your male and female to see and smell each other. Let them become more social, but do not put them together in one cage yet.\\nAnother way to let them get acquainted is to put them into separate exercise balls. While you are watching, let them roll around in their pods, smelling each other and interacting safely.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Introduce the hamsters when they come of age.\", \"描述\": \"Once your hamsters are at least four months old, you can introduce them to each other in a third, neutral cage. If the female attacks the male, she is not ready to mate. Get him out of the cage as soon as possible, to avoid injury.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Mating Your Hamsters\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Determine whether the female is in heat.\", \"描述\": \"You cannot mate your hamsters if the female is not going to be receptive to the male. At this age, she could go into heat every four to five days.\\nGently stroke the female on the bottom. If her tail goes erect, she is in heat and ready to mate with the male.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Only place the hamsters together when the female is in heat.\", \"描述\": \"Hamsters are territorial animals. If they do not want to mate, they will likely ending up fighting, leading to injury, or even death. Check the female every day until she is in heat before placing them together.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Place the hamsters in the same cage when the female is in heat.\", \"描述\": \"Either gently place her in the male's cage or put both hamsters in a neutral third cage. Do not place the male in the female's cage, however, as she will likely fight him to protect her territory.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Supervise the mating process.\", \"描述\": \"If all goes well, the female's tail should go erect, and the male should mount her more than once. This may last for around 30 minutes, and the male will likely clean himself between attempts.\\nBe watchful for fights, even if the female seems receptive.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Separate them when they are finished.\", \"描述\": \"You will be able to tell when they are finished because they will suddenly seem disinterested in each other. When this happens, move the female back into her cage.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Make a record of the date.\", \"描述\": \"An important part of breeding hamsters is keeping good records. Either mark mating dates on a calendar or write them down in a notebook.\\nHamsters hibernate when the temperature dips below 50°F (10°C). They will not breed at that temperature.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Preparing for Birth\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Observe the female for a week.\", \"描述\": \"Sometimes, a hamster's behavior changes noticeably when she gets pregnant. Note if she is being strangely quiet, cleaning herself more often, or eating and drinking more than usual. Another common sign is an instinct to gather up large nests. If you see these telltale behavior changes, she is likely pregnant.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Figure out when she will give birth.\", \"描述\": \"Syrian hamsters usually grow and carry their babies for 15-18 days before giving birth. Look up the date on which you last mated your hamsters and add 15 days to it. That is the earliest likely due date for your new litter.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Watch for physical changes in the female.\", \"描述\": \"You will not be able to tell she is pregnant until just a few days before she gives birth. By ten days after the mating, you should be able to see her belly clearly swelling, as with human pregnancies.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Provide her with nesting and bedding materials.\", \"描述\": \"A pregnant female will have a natural instinct to build herself a big nest. Give her extra bedding materials like paper towels or bathroom tissues so she can shred them up for her nest.\\nYou might also offer a safe (non toxic, no ink, not sharp) bedding material like Pennine “Curl Up” Hamster bedding.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Prepare the cage for the birth and babies.\", \"描述\": \"Make sure you have cleaned the cage five days or so before the due date, and that there is extra food and bedding in the cage. Prepare ahead of time so you do not disturb the mother and babies for the first week after birth.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Do not handle the hamster close to her due date.\", \"描述\": \"You want to keep her as calm and relaxed as possible. Keep her environment quiet and soothing; dim or remove bright lights. Keep curious pets like dogs and cats away from her as she gets ready to deliver her babies.\\nHamsters usually give birth without problems if you wait until they are old enough to mate (four months).\\nThe birth will likely happen at night when everything is quiet.\\nLitters can be as small as 4 or as large as 16 babies.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Taking Care of the New Litter\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Do not disturb the new mother or her babies.\", \"描述\": \"Female hamsters sometimes eat their own babies if they get stressed out. It is very important to keep the environment as calm as possible. Though you might be eager to play with the babies, give the mother space and peace for their safety.\\nAt first, the babies will look pink and hairless. They are born with their eyes closed.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Continue to care for her after the delivery.\", \"描述\": \"While you do not want to disturb her, you do still need to make sure she has everything she needs in her cage. For the first week and a half to two weeks or so, discretely refill the mother's food bowl and water bottle.\\nYou do not need to provide the babies with anything at this point. They will get everything they need from nursing.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Begin feeding the babies about one week after birth.\", \"描述\": \"Scatter small portions of broccoli, grated carrot, wheat germ, or tofu in their nest for them to eat. The mother will also store food in her cheek pouches, and bring it back to the nest to feed her babies.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Check for healthy development in the babies.\", \"描述\": \"A week after birth, they will start to grow fur. You should just be able to tell what colors they are. The \\\"pups\\\" will also start making little noises at this age. One or two adventurous babies may leave the nest, but do not worry if the mother picks them up in her mouth and puts them back.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Clean the cage at two weeks.\", \"描述\": \"Enough time should have passed now to allow the mother settle into her new role, so you can give the cage a much-needed cleaning. It is also your first opportunity to handle the babies, which is an important step in socializing them to humans. By handling them at two weeks, you make them more comfortable with human interactions.\\nGet your hands \\\"dirty\\\" with the scent of the used litter before touching the babies. This prevents the mother from rejecting or attacking them later.\\nMove the hamsters into another cage one by one.\\nWhen cleaning the cage, avoid completely destroying the nest.\\nHamsters will usually have a “toilet” area in the cage. Concentrate your cleaning there, and leave the nest more or less intact.\\nIf the nest is soaked or filthy, however, go ahead and replace it with fresh materials.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Adjust the cage for the babies.\", \"描述\": \"While cleaning the cage, make a few changes to transition them into adulthood. Add a second food bowl to the cage. The mother's water bottle will be too high for the babies, so place a second one at a lower position. You could also place a raised platform under the mother's bottle so the babies can reach it.\\nDo not lower the mother's water bottle to the babies' height because then the mother will not be able to reach it.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Check the babies’ two-week development.\", \"描述\": \"At this age, the babies should have all their fur and be running about independently. Though they were born with closed eyes and ears, they should be starting to open up now.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Determine the babies' genders at around three and a half to four weeks.\", \"描述\": \"This can be a tricky process. Look at the distance between each hamster's anus and genital opening. The distance on a male will be longer than the distance on a female. By four weeks, the males' testicles should also be noticeable, as should the nipples on the females' bellies.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Separate the males and females once you determine the genders.\", \"描述\": \"Hamsters have a lot of loose skin, and you can hold them by the scruff of their necks or by the loose skin down their backs. Be careful not to drop them, and be ready to return them to the cage, if you start to lose your grip.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Double check the babies' genders.\", \"描述\": \"Not all hamsters mature at the same rate, so you have to make sure you gendered them correctly. For a few days after you separate them into male and female cages, keep checking gender every day. You might notice testicles one day that you did not see before in a cage of baby “females.” If so, switch the baby to the correct cage.\\nIf you are unsure about the sex of your babies, take them to your vet or an experienced hamster breeder for help. You want to avoid accidental breeding of siblings.\"}, {\"编号\": 11, \"标题\": \"Get the babies used to human handling.\", \"描述\": \"Place your hand in the cage so they can smell it, and let them climb up into your palm if they want to. You can also scoop them up with a small cup and start gently petting them on the back.\\nThe babies will be ready for their new homes 35 days their birth.\"}, {\"编号\": 12, \"标题\": \"Line up customers early.\", \"描述\": \"Do not wait too long to start looking for people to purchase your hamsters, because the 35 days goes by fast. Keep your customers updated as the hamsters approach 35 days old, so they can prepare their own homes.\"}, {\"编号\": 13, \"标题\": \"Sell the hamsters.\", \"描述\": \"Make sure you send them off to reliable homes, with families that will love them. Provide the new owners with information on hamsters and the hamster's care to this point. You want the babies to have the best new start you can provide.\"}, {\"编号\": 14, \"标题\": \"Separate hamsters after two to three months of age.\", \"描述\": \"If you keep any of the babies, know that Syrians are highly territorial. When they reach two to three months of age, separate all hamsters into their own cages.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Do not clean the cage before the babies reach one week. If your scent gets on the babies, the mother might neglect or attack them. Do not touch them at all until one week has passed.\\n\", \"Once the hamsters have mated, separate the male and female back into their own cages. Isolate the pregnant female from noise and bright lights.\\n\", \"Breeding hamsters is a big investment of both time and money. Be sure you are committed to this before you begin breeding hamsters.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Despite what pet shops say, an 80 x 50 centimeters hamster cage is the smallest acceptable size for a hamster cage. Make sure that the babies cannot escape, as they are much smaller than the adult hamsters. Using a cage with clear solid sides (like a fish tank) will prevent the babies from escaping or getting caught in wire floored cages\\n\", \"Breed healthy animals with good temperaments. This increases the likelihood that the babies will also have good health and temperament.\\n\", \"Line up customers before breeding the hamsters.\\n\", \"When the babies are born, do not touch them. The mother could abandon or even cannibalize her own babies.\\n\", \"Avoid loud noises, bright lights and commotion.\\n\", \"Have the information for a hamster-savvy vet who can answer your questions along the way. Develop a relationship with him or her before you start breeding hamsters.\\n\", \"Do not allow anybody to buy a hamster if the cage they intend to put him or her in is smaller than 80 x 50 centimeters, or they seem unprepared for caring for a hamster.\\n\", \"Mother hamsters can have up to 20 babies or more, so make sure that you have enough bedding, food and space in the cage.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
6,956 |
How to Breed Villagers in Minecraft
|
1. Breeding Villagers
1-1. Find a village.
Villages generate at random locations on the map. Be patient. You may need to look around for a while to find a village. Villages can be found in the plains, snowy plains, deserts, taigas, snowy taigas, and savannah biomes. The village needs to have at least 2 villagers.
1-2. Build a structure to breed your villagers in (optional).
This is not required to breed villagers, but building a structure will keep them from wandering off. Villagers need to be in close proximity in order to breed. It will also protect them from hostile mobs and raiders. The structure can be made out of any building material. It needs to be big enough to house all the villagers you want to breed as well as beds for each villager and the offspring they produce.
Make sure any windows are covered with glass or iron bars. Baby villagers can escape through open gaps in structures.
The roof needs to be at least two block spaces above each bed in order for the villagers to be able to use them.
Don't build a door to your structure. Villagers can open and close doors. To prevent them from escaping, use a fence gate instead.
Make sure the area you keep your villagers is larger enough for them to get around. Your area should have at least 3 square blocks of empty space for each villager you want to breed.
Villager occupations are now determined by any available workstation block nearby (such as a fletching table, or composter). Any new villagers will automatically be registered to any available workstation in the village and assigned an occupation based on that workstation. If you have a specific occupation you want your new villagers to fill, you may want to build the structure at least 48 blocks away from any nearby workstations to keep them from registering an occupation automatically. Baby villagers will be assigned a nearby workstation when they become adults.
1-3. Craft at least 3 beds and place them in the village or structure.
In order for villagers to breed, they need a bed for both the villagers that are breeding and the baby they produce. You will need to craft a new bed for each villager you want to produce. You can craft a bed from 3 blocks of wool and 3 wooden plank blocks using a crafting table.
1-4. Get at least two villagers close together.
If you've built a structure, try to corral them into the structure and then wall off or gate the entrance so they can't wander off. You can move villagers by simply walking into them. This pushes them in the direction you want them to go. You can also use a boat to transport villagers, even on land.
You can craft a boat out of a shovel, and 5 wooden plank blocks using a crafting table. Boats can be used to transport villagers, even on land (though it's really slow). Villagers will not be able to leave the boat until you break it apart.
1-5. Gather food for the villagers.
Each villager has their own independent inventory that they use to keep items like food. In order for villagers to breed, they need either 3 loaves of bread, 12 carrots, 12 beetroot, or 12 potatoes in their inventory. The good news is, you won't need to go far to find these items because they can all be found inside the village.
Carrots are grown by farmer villagers inside the village. You can harvest them from the village gardens once they are fully matured. Carrots are fully matured when the green leaves at the top are at their fullest and a tip of the orange carrot is sticking out of the ground where they are planted.
Potatoes are also grown by farmer villagers Potatoes can be harvested from village gardens. Potatoes are fully matured when there is a full stalk of leaves growing out of the ground where the potatoes are planted. However, sometimes you get a poisonous potato, which isn't useful for anything.
Beetroot is also grown by farmer villagers. However, unlike potatoes and carrots, you cannot plant the beetroot itself to grow more beetroot. You need to plant beetroot seeds in order to grow beetroot, which takes up more space in your inventory. Beetroot and beetroot seeds can be harvested from village gardens. Beetroot is fully mature when you can see the leaves and red of beetroot sticking out of the ground where they are planted.
You can purchase bread from villagers or craft it using three bushels of wheat and a crafting table. Sometimes, you can also find bread in chests in villages. Wheat is grown by farmer villagers in village gardens. Wheat is fully matured when it grows tall and turns slightly brown. Break fully matured wheat to obtain bushels of wheat.
1-6. Give food to the villagers.
To give the villagers food simply drop it on the floor next to them. When the villagers walk over it, it will be added to their inventory. Once both villagers in close proximity have enough food in their inventory, they may become willing to breed. You can drop items by equipping them and pressing "Q" on your keyboard or the drop button on your controller. You can also drop items, by clicking them in your inventory and dragging it outside your inventory.
1-7. Trade with the villagers (optional, but recommended).
Trading with villagers is not required to get them to breed, but it increases their happiness level, which makes them more willing to breed. Villagers have different items they are willing to trade for different items. Select a villager to see what they have to trade and what they want in return. Make sure you have the item they want in return in your inventory and select the option to trade with them.
Emeralds are one of the most commonly traded items in Minecraft.
1-8. Wait for the villagers to breed.
You will know that villagers are breeding when they face each other and hearts float all around them. A tiny villager will emerge. It takes 20 minutes for a baby villager to mature into an adult.
If your villagers are not breeding, there could be a number of reasons for it. It could be that the beds are already claimed by other villagers. The roof over the beds is too short, it could also be that villagers don't feel safe with whatever is in the surrounding area.
2. Breeding Villagers In Version 1.14 and Earlier
2-1. Find a village.
Villages generate at random locations in the game world. Villages can be found in the plains, desert, and savannah biomes. The village needs to have at least 2 villagers. Be patient. Villages are not always easy to find. You may have explored for a while before you find one. Use the map you get at the start of the game to keep track of your location.
2-2. Build more houses with doors in the village.
In older versions of Minecraft, villagers will mate as long as the total population of villagers is less than 35% of the number of doors in a village. A valid door is any door where one side of the door leads to a room with a roof, while the other side leads to the outside.
To make a valid door, technically all you need is a door with one block overhead on one side.
To increase the number of doors in your village, you can build a single structure with multiple doors.
2-3. Build gardens for the villagers.
Villagers love to grow crops. Most villages already have a couple of gardens already built in the village. You can build more to increase villager happiness levels and make them more willing to breed. To build gardens, find a well-lit area and dig a trench next to dirt blocks and fill the trench with water. Then use a hoe to till the dirt blocks. You can plant seeds or vegetables in the tilled dirt blocks, or allow the villagers to do it themselves.
You can also throw food to villagers. Villagers become willing to breed when they have either 3 bread, 12 carrots, or 12 potatoes in their inventory.
To craft bread, select a crafting table and place three wheat stalks in any row of the 3x3 grid. Drag the bread into your inventory.
2-4. Trade with the villagers.
Trading with villagers is the primary way to make them willing to breed. Different villagers have different items they are willing to trade in exchange for different items. You must have the items the villager wants in your inventory to trade with them. Trading with the same villager multiple times unlocks new items the villager can trade. Trade with the villagers to increase their happiness level. Afterward, subsequent trades have a 1 in 5 chance of making the villager willing to breed again. Green particles appear when a villager has become willing to breed.
Being willing to breed will not automatically make the villager seek out a mate. Two villagers that are willing to mate must be in close proximity. Trading with villagers will make them more willing to breed.
2-5. Wait for villagers to breed.
Once two or more villagers in close proximity are willing to breed, they will breed automatically. You will know that villagers are breeding when they face each other and hearts float all around them. A tiny villager will emerge. It takes 20 minutes for a baby villager to mature into an adult.
After they mate, the villagers are no longer willing and must be made willing again.
3. Crafting Beds for Villagers
3-1. Gather the materials.
In order to craft one bed, you will need three wooden plank blocks, and three blocks of wool. You will also need a crafting table. Use the following steps to obtain the materials you need:
To gather wood walk up to a tree and attack the trunk with your hands (or an axe) until the trunk blocks break apart and drops a small wooden log block. Walk over the wood block to pick it up. Then open the crafting menu and craft wood plank blocks from the wood.
Wool can be obtained by either killing sheep, or sheering them with a pair of sheers which can be crafted from two iron bars using a crafting table.
3-2. Craft a crafting table.
In order to craft a crafting table, open your crafting menu and place 4 wooden plank blocks in the crafting grid to the right of your character. Then drag the crafting table to your inventory.
3-3. Place the crafting table and open it.
Place the crafting table in your hot bar at the bottom of your inventory and equip it. Place it by aiming at the ground where you want the crafting table to go. Then right-click or press the left trigger button to place it.
3-4. Craft a bed.
To craft a bed, open the crafting table, and place three wool blocks in the top row of the 3x3 crafting grid. Then place 3 wooden blocks in the middle row below the wool blocks. Drag the bed into your inventory.
You can also craft different color beds using dyes.
3-5. Place the bed.
To place a bed, place it in your hot bar and equip it. Aim at the ground where you want to place the bed, and right-click or press the left trigger to place it where you want it to go.
4. Building Houses in the Village
4-1. Gather building materials.
Village houses can be made out of any material you want. Not all materials require tools to harvest or mine, but tools make the process quicker. The following are common materials, and how to gather them:
Dirt is found all over. To gather dirt, simply attack with your hand (or a shovel) until the dirt block breaks apart and drops a small dirt block. Walk over the small dirt block to collect it.
To gather wood, walk up to a tree and attack the trunk with your hands (or an axe) until the trunk blocks break apart and drop a small wood block. Walk over the wood block to pick it up. Then open the crafting menu and craft wood plank blocks from the wood blocks.
Cobblestone is a bit sturdier (and more resistant to creeper explosions). To mine cobblestone, you first need to craft a pickaxe. Equip the pickaxe from the menu. Equip the pickaxe and attack stone blocks inside caves or along the sides of mountains.
4-2. Select a location.
Make sure the location you select is within the village. The game calculates the center of the village as the average coordinates of all the doors in the village. The outer parameter of the villages is either 32 blocks from the center, or the furthest door from the center, depending on which is greater.
4-3. Build a structure.
Use the building materials you gather to build the outside of a house or structure. It can be any shape you want as long as it has opaque blocks overhead to act as a roof. It should be at least three blocks tall so that the villagers (and the player) have room to move around inside. Leave a space that is 2 blocks tall in the wall for the door or gate. If you are playing a newer version of Minecraft, use a gate instead of a door, to prevent villagers from escaping.
To build, place your building material in your hot bar at the bottom of your inventory. Highlight the material in your hot bar to equip it. Aim at the ground where you want to place a building material, then right-click (or press the left trigger button) to place a block.
4-4. Build a crafting table and place it.
A crafting table is built using four wood plank blocks in the crafting menu. After you build a crafting table, place it anywhere in the game world.
4-5. Use the crafting table to craft a door or a gate.
To make a gate, select the crafting table and place 4 sticks in the bottom left and right corners, and the center-right and left sides of the 3x3 grid. Then place 2 wooden plank blocks in the center and bottom center of the 3x3 grid. Drag the fence gate into your inventory. To craft a door, select the crafting table and place 6 wood plank blocks in the 3x3 grid in the crafting table. Drag the door into your inventory.
4-6. Place the door or gate in your structure.
To place the door or gate in your structure, place it in your hot bar and then select the corresponding space to equip the gate or door. Then aim at the ground where you want to place it, and right-click (or press the left trigger button on your game controller) to place the door.
5. Trading with Villagers
5-1. Select a villager.
To select a villager, stand in front of them, and aim at them. Right-click or press the left trigger button on the controller. This displays their inventory window.
5-2. Examine the villager's inventory.
The spaces at the top of the window display what the villager has for sale. The box in the lower-left corner of the window displays what the villager requires for the trade. You must have the item they want in your inventory to make a trade.
5-3. Select the item you want to buy.
To select an item, click it or press the confirm button on your controller. The item you are trading will automatically be removed from your inventory, and the item you are purchasing will be placed in your inventory.
Villagers have only one or two items when you first trade with them. The more you trade with them, the more items they will have for sale.
6. Building Gardens for Villagers
6-1. Mine cobblestone, coal, and iron ore.
All of these materials are found in caves. You need a pickaxe to mine these materials.
Stone blocks are grey blocks that resemble stone. Use a pickaxe to mine cobblestone from stone blocks.
Coal blocks look like stone blocks with black spots. Use a pickaxe to mine coal from the coal blocks.
Iron ore blocks look like stone blocks with yellowish spots on them. Use a stone pickaxe or stronger to mine iron ore.
6-2. Build a crafting table and place it.
A crafting table is built using four wood plank blocks in the crafting menu. After you build a crafting table, place it anywhere in the world.
6-3. Craft a furnace
To craft a furnace, select the crafting table and place 8 cobblestone blocks along all sides of the 3x3 grid. Drag the furnace into your hot bar below your inventory. Place the furnace in your hot bar and equip it. Aim at the ground where you want to place it and right-click (or press the left trigger button) to place it.
6-4. Use the furnace to smelt the iron.
To smelt your iron ore, select the furnace and place the coal in the fuel space (the space below the icon that resembles flames). Then place your iron ore blocks in the space above the flame. Allow a few minutes for the iron to finish smelting. When your iron ore is finished smelting, select the furnace and drag the iron bars from the square on the right and place them in your inventory.
6-5. Use the crafting table to craft a bucket.
To craft a bucket, select the crafting table and place an iron block in the left-center, right-center, and bottom-center space of the 3x3 grid. Then drag the bucket into your inventory.
6-6. Find a well-lit area in the village.
Find an area in the village that gets plenty of sunlight, and is about 5x10 dirt blocks wide.
6-7. Dig a trench down the center of your garden.
You can use your hand (or a shovel) to dig a trench down the center of the garden. The trench should only be 1 block deep.
6-8. Use the bucket to gather water.
Place the bucket in your hot bar and equip it. Then locate a nearby water source and use the bucket to gather water. Equip the bucket in your hot bar and click any area that has water to fill the bucket.
6-9. Fill the trench with water.
After you gather water, return to your garden with the trench and dump the water in the trench to fill it. Equip the bucket full of water in your hot bar and click the empty trench to fill it full of water. It may take a couple of trips to completely fill the trench.
6-10. Use the crafting table to craft a hoe.
To craft a hoe, select the crafting table and place two sticks in the center, and bottom-center spaces of the 3x3 grid. Then place two wooden plank, cobblestone, iron bar, or diamonds in the upper-center and upper-left spaces. Drag the hoe into your inventory.
Sticks are crafted from wood plank blocks in the crafting menu.
6-11. Use the crafting table to craft a composter.
In version 1.14, composters were added as a villager workstation. When placed next to a garden, a villager that does not have an occupation can claim the workstation and become a farmer. Composters can also be used to recycle old food and plants into bone meal. To craft a composter, select a crafting table and place 7 wooden slabs along the left, bottom, and right edges of the 3x3 grid. Then drag the composter into your inventory.
To craft wooden slabs, select a crafting table and place three wooden plank blocks along the bottom of the 3x3 grid. Then drag the wooden slabs into your inventory. 3 wooden plank blocks can craft 6 wooden slabs.
6-12. Gather materials to grow.
Carrots, potatoes, wheat seeds, beetroot, cocoa seeds, melons, and pumpkins can all be planted and grown.
Carrots, potatoes, beetroot, and wheat seeds can be harvested from garden plots that already exist in villages. You can also gather wheat seeds by breaking tall grass.
6-13. Use the hoe to till the garden.
Place the hoe in your hot bar at the bottom of your inventory. Then equip it. Use it to till the soil two spaces on either side of the trench with water in it.
6-14. Place the composter.
To place the composter, put it in your hot bar and equip it. Aim at the ground where you want to place the composter and right-click or squeeze the left trigger button. Place it next to the water trench or next to one of your tilled soil squares.
Placing used food and plants in the composter has a chance of producing bone meal, which can be used as fertilizer to help your garden crops grow faster.
6-15. Plant your crops.
After the soil has been tilled, place your crops in your hot bar and plant it in the group by right-clicking or pressing the left trigger on the controller. Allow a few days for the crops to grow.
6-16. Harvest the crops.
After the crops are fully grown, click on them or press the right trigger to harvest them.
If a villager has 3 bread, 12 carrots, 12 potatoes, or 12 beetroots in their inventory, they will become willing to breed.
To craft bread, select a crafting table and place three wheat stalks in any row of the 3x3 grid. Drag the bread into your inventory.
Tips
When breeding two villagers, keep them both in an enclosed space so that they do not wander away from each other.
When villagers are happy and have all their needs met, they are more willing to breed.
Try and breed villagers as often as possible, because more villagers mean more available trades, which increases the chance of you finding a good trade.
Warnings
Try and keep Zombie Villagers out of sunlight while curing them, because they will burn and die in sunlight, wasting your potion and golden apple.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:58:40",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Breeding Villagers\\n1-1. Find a village.\\nVillages generate at random locations on the map. Be patient. You may need to look around for a while to find a village. Villages can be found in the plains, snowy plains, deserts, taigas, snowy taigas, and savannah biomes. The village needs to have at least 2 villagers.\\n1-2. Build a structure to breed your villagers in (optional).\\nThis is not required to breed villagers, but building a structure will keep them from wandering off. Villagers need to be in close proximity in order to breed. It will also protect them from hostile mobs and raiders. The structure can be made out of any building material. It needs to be big enough to house all the villagers you want to breed as well as beds for each villager and the offspring they produce.\\nMake sure any windows are covered with glass or iron bars. Baby villagers can escape through open gaps in structures.\\nThe roof needs to be at least two block spaces above each bed in order for the villagers to be able to use them.\\nDon't build a door to your structure. Villagers can open and close doors. To prevent them from escaping, use a fence gate instead.\\nMake sure the area you keep your villagers is larger enough for them to get around. Your area should have at least 3 square blocks of empty space for each villager you want to breed.\\nVillager occupations are now determined by any available workstation block nearby (such as a fletching table, or composter). Any new villagers will automatically be registered to any available workstation in the village and assigned an occupation based on that workstation. If you have a specific occupation you want your new villagers to fill, you may want to build the structure at least 48 blocks away from any nearby workstations to keep them from registering an occupation automatically. Baby villagers will be assigned a nearby workstation when they become adults.\\n1-3. Craft at least 3 beds and place them in the village or structure.\\nIn order for villagers to breed, they need a bed for both the villagers that are breeding and the baby they produce. You will need to craft a new bed for each villager you want to produce. You can craft a bed from 3 blocks of wool and 3 wooden plank blocks using a crafting table.\\n1-4. Get at least two villagers close together.\\nIf you've built a structure, try to corral them into the structure and then wall off or gate the entrance so they can't wander off. You can move villagers by simply walking into them. This pushes them in the direction you want them to go. You can also use a boat to transport villagers, even on land. \\nYou can craft a boat out of a shovel, and 5 wooden plank blocks using a crafting table. Boats can be used to transport villagers, even on land (though it's really slow). Villagers will not be able to leave the boat until you break it apart.\\n1-5. Gather food for the villagers.\\nEach villager has their own independent inventory that they use to keep items like food. In order for villagers to breed, they need either 3 loaves of bread, 12 carrots, 12 beetroot, or 12 potatoes in their inventory. The good news is, you won't need to go far to find these items because they can all be found inside the village.\\n\\n Carrots are grown by farmer villagers inside the village. You can harvest them from the village gardens once they are fully matured. Carrots are fully matured when the green leaves at the top are at their fullest and a tip of the orange carrot is sticking out of the ground where they are planted.\\n Potatoes are also grown by farmer villagers Potatoes can be harvested from village gardens. Potatoes are fully matured when there is a full stalk of leaves growing out of the ground where the potatoes are planted. However, sometimes you get a poisonous potato, which isn't useful for anything.\\n Beetroot is also grown by farmer villagers. However, unlike potatoes and carrots, you cannot plant the beetroot itself to grow more beetroot. You need to plant beetroot seeds in order to grow beetroot, which takes up more space in your inventory. Beetroot and beetroot seeds can be harvested from village gardens. Beetroot is fully mature when you can see the leaves and red of beetroot sticking out of the ground where they are planted.\\n You can purchase bread from villagers or craft it using three bushels of wheat and a crafting table. Sometimes, you can also find bread in chests in villages. Wheat is grown by farmer villagers in village gardens. Wheat is fully matured when it grows tall and turns slightly brown. Break fully matured wheat to obtain bushels of wheat.\\n1-6. Give food to the villagers.\\nTo give the villagers food simply drop it on the floor next to them. When the villagers walk over it, it will be added to their inventory. Once both villagers in close proximity have enough food in their inventory, they may become willing to breed. You can drop items by equipping them and pressing \\\"Q\\\" on your keyboard or the drop button on your controller. You can also drop items, by clicking them in your inventory and dragging it outside your inventory.\\n1-7. Trade with the villagers (optional, but recommended).\\nTrading with villagers is not required to get them to breed, but it increases their happiness level, which makes them more willing to breed. Villagers have different items they are willing to trade for different items. Select a villager to see what they have to trade and what they want in return. Make sure you have the item they want in return in your inventory and select the option to trade with them.\\nEmeralds are one of the most commonly traded items in Minecraft.\\n1-8. Wait for the villagers to breed.\\nYou will know that villagers are breeding when they face each other and hearts float all around them. A tiny villager will emerge. It takes 20 minutes for a baby villager to mature into an adult.\\nIf your villagers are not breeding, there could be a number of reasons for it. It could be that the beds are already claimed by other villagers. The roof over the beds is too short, it could also be that villagers don't feel safe with whatever is in the surrounding area.\\n2. Breeding Villagers In Version 1.14 and Earlier\\n2-1. Find a village.\\nVillages generate at random locations in the game world. Villages can be found in the plains, desert, and savannah biomes. The village needs to have at least 2 villagers. Be patient. Villages are not always easy to find. You may have explored for a while before you find one. Use the map you get at the start of the game to keep track of your location.\\n2-2. Build more houses with doors in the village.\\nIn older versions of Minecraft, villagers will mate as long as the total population of villagers is less than 35% of the number of doors in a village. A valid door is any door where one side of the door leads to a room with a roof, while the other side leads to the outside.\\nTo make a valid door, technically all you need is a door with one block overhead on one side.\\nTo increase the number of doors in your village, you can build a single structure with multiple doors.\\n2-3. Build gardens for the villagers.\\nVillagers love to grow crops. Most villages already have a couple of gardens already built in the village. You can build more to increase villager happiness levels and make them more willing to breed. To build gardens, find a well-lit area and dig a trench next to dirt blocks and fill the trench with water. Then use a hoe to till the dirt blocks. You can plant seeds or vegetables in the tilled dirt blocks, or allow the villagers to do it themselves. \\nYou can also throw food to villagers. Villagers become willing to breed when they have either 3 bread, 12 carrots, or 12 potatoes in their inventory.\\nTo craft bread, select a crafting table and place three wheat stalks in any row of the 3x3 grid. Drag the bread into your inventory.\\n2-4. Trade with the villagers.\\nTrading with villagers is the primary way to make them willing to breed. Different villagers have different items they are willing to trade in exchange for different items. You must have the items the villager wants in your inventory to trade with them. Trading with the same villager multiple times unlocks new items the villager can trade. Trade with the villagers to increase their happiness level. Afterward, subsequent trades have a 1 in 5 chance of making the villager willing to breed again. Green particles appear when a villager has become willing to breed.\\nBeing willing to breed will not automatically make the villager seek out a mate. Two villagers that are willing to mate must be in close proximity. Trading with villagers will make them more willing to breed.\\n2-5. Wait for villagers to breed.\\nOnce two or more villagers in close proximity are willing to breed, they will breed automatically. You will know that villagers are breeding when they face each other and hearts float all around them. A tiny villager will emerge. It takes 20 minutes for a baby villager to mature into an adult.\\nAfter they mate, the villagers are no longer willing and must be made willing again.\\n3. Crafting Beds for Villagers\\n3-1. Gather the materials.\\nIn order to craft one bed, you will need three wooden plank blocks, and three blocks of wool. You will also need a crafting table. Use the following steps to obtain the materials you need:\\n\\n To gather wood walk up to a tree and attack the trunk with your hands (or an axe) until the trunk blocks break apart and drops a small wooden log block. Walk over the wood block to pick it up. Then open the crafting menu and craft wood plank blocks from the wood.\\n Wool can be obtained by either killing sheep, or sheering them with a pair of sheers which can be crafted from two iron bars using a crafting table.\\n3-2. Craft a crafting table.\\nIn order to craft a crafting table, open your crafting menu and place 4 wooden plank blocks in the crafting grid to the right of your character. Then drag the crafting table to your inventory.\\n3-3. Place the crafting table and open it.\\nPlace the crafting table in your hot bar at the bottom of your inventory and equip it. Place it by aiming at the ground where you want the crafting table to go. Then right-click or press the left trigger button to place it.\\n3-4. Craft a bed.\\nTo craft a bed, open the crafting table, and place three wool blocks in the top row of the 3x3 crafting grid. Then place 3 wooden blocks in the middle row below the wool blocks. Drag the bed into your inventory.\\nYou can also craft different color beds using dyes.\\n3-5. Place the bed.\\nTo place a bed, place it in your hot bar and equip it. Aim at the ground where you want to place the bed, and right-click or press the left trigger to place it where you want it to go.\\n4. Building Houses in the Village\\n4-1. Gather building materials.\\nVillage houses can be made out of any material you want. Not all materials require tools to harvest or mine, but tools make the process quicker. The following are common materials, and how to gather them:\\n\\n Dirt is found all over. To gather dirt, simply attack with your hand (or a shovel) until the dirt block breaks apart and drops a small dirt block. Walk over the small dirt block to collect it.\\n To gather wood, walk up to a tree and attack the trunk with your hands (or an axe) until the trunk blocks break apart and drop a small wood block. Walk over the wood block to pick it up. Then open the crafting menu and craft wood plank blocks from the wood blocks.\\n Cobblestone is a bit sturdier (and more resistant to creeper explosions). To mine cobblestone, you first need to craft a pickaxe. Equip the pickaxe from the menu. Equip the pickaxe and attack stone blocks inside caves or along the sides of mountains.\\n4-2. Select a location.\\nMake sure the location you select is within the village. The game calculates the center of the village as the average coordinates of all the doors in the village. The outer parameter of the villages is either 32 blocks from the center, or the furthest door from the center, depending on which is greater.\\n4-3. Build a structure.\\nUse the building materials you gather to build the outside of a house or structure. It can be any shape you want as long as it has opaque blocks overhead to act as a roof. It should be at least three blocks tall so that the villagers (and the player) have room to move around inside. Leave a space that is 2 blocks tall in the wall for the door or gate. If you are playing a newer version of Minecraft, use a gate instead of a door, to prevent villagers from escaping.\\nTo build, place your building material in your hot bar at the bottom of your inventory. Highlight the material in your hot bar to equip it. Aim at the ground where you want to place a building material, then right-click (or press the left trigger button) to place a block.\\n4-4. Build a crafting table and place it.\\nA crafting table is built using four wood plank blocks in the crafting menu. After you build a crafting table, place it anywhere in the game world.\\n4-5. Use the crafting table to craft a door or a gate.\\nTo make a gate, select the crafting table and place 4 sticks in the bottom left and right corners, and the center-right and left sides of the 3x3 grid. Then place 2 wooden plank blocks in the center and bottom center of the 3x3 grid. Drag the fence gate into your inventory. To craft a door, select the crafting table and place 6 wood plank blocks in the 3x3 grid in the crafting table. Drag the door into your inventory.\\n4-6. Place the door or gate in your structure.\\nTo place the door or gate in your structure, place it in your hot bar and then select the corresponding space to equip the gate or door. Then aim at the ground where you want to place it, and right-click (or press the left trigger button on your game controller) to place the door.\\n5. Trading with Villagers\\n5-1. Select a villager.\\nTo select a villager, stand in front of them, and aim at them. Right-click or press the left trigger button on the controller. This displays their inventory window.\\n5-2. Examine the villager's inventory.\\nThe spaces at the top of the window display what the villager has for sale. The box in the lower-left corner of the window displays what the villager requires for the trade. You must have the item they want in your inventory to make a trade.\\n5-3. Select the item you want to buy.\\nTo select an item, click it or press the confirm button on your controller. The item you are trading will automatically be removed from your inventory, and the item you are purchasing will be placed in your inventory.\\nVillagers have only one or two items when you first trade with them. The more you trade with them, the more items they will have for sale.\\n6. Building Gardens for Villagers\\n6-1. Mine cobblestone, coal, and iron ore.\\nAll of these materials are found in caves. You need a pickaxe to mine these materials.\\nStone blocks are grey blocks that resemble stone. Use a pickaxe to mine cobblestone from stone blocks.\\nCoal blocks look like stone blocks with black spots. Use a pickaxe to mine coal from the coal blocks.\\nIron ore blocks look like stone blocks with yellowish spots on them. Use a stone pickaxe or stronger to mine iron ore.\\n6-2. Build a crafting table and place it.\\nA crafting table is built using four wood plank blocks in the crafting menu. After you build a crafting table, place it anywhere in the world.\\n6-3. Craft a furnace\\nTo craft a furnace, select the crafting table and place 8 cobblestone blocks along all sides of the 3x3 grid. Drag the furnace into your hot bar below your inventory. Place the furnace in your hot bar and equip it. Aim at the ground where you want to place it and right-click (or press the left trigger button) to place it.\\n6-4. Use the furnace to smelt the iron.\\nTo smelt your iron ore, select the furnace and place the coal in the fuel space (the space below the icon that resembles flames). Then place your iron ore blocks in the space above the flame. Allow a few minutes for the iron to finish smelting. When your iron ore is finished smelting, select the furnace and drag the iron bars from the square on the right and place them in your inventory.\\n6-5. Use the crafting table to craft a bucket.\\nTo craft a bucket, select the crafting table and place an iron block in the left-center, right-center, and bottom-center space of the 3x3 grid. Then drag the bucket into your inventory.\\n6-6. Find a well-lit area in the village.\\nFind an area in the village that gets plenty of sunlight, and is about 5x10 dirt blocks wide.\\n6-7. Dig a trench down the center of your garden.\\nYou can use your hand (or a shovel) to dig a trench down the center of the garden. The trench should only be 1 block deep.\\n6-8. Use the bucket to gather water.\\nPlace the bucket in your hot bar and equip it. Then locate a nearby water source and use the bucket to gather water. Equip the bucket in your hot bar and click any area that has water to fill the bucket.\\n6-9. Fill the trench with water.\\nAfter you gather water, return to your garden with the trench and dump the water in the trench to fill it. Equip the bucket full of water in your hot bar and click the empty trench to fill it full of water. It may take a couple of trips to completely fill the trench.\\n6-10. Use the crafting table to craft a hoe.\\nTo craft a hoe, select the crafting table and place two sticks in the center, and bottom-center spaces of the 3x3 grid. Then place two wooden plank, cobblestone, iron bar, or diamonds in the upper-center and upper-left spaces. Drag the hoe into your inventory.\\nSticks are crafted from wood plank blocks in the crafting menu.\\n6-11. Use the crafting table to craft a composter.\\nIn version 1.14, composters were added as a villager workstation. When placed next to a garden, a villager that does not have an occupation can claim the workstation and become a farmer. Composters can also be used to recycle old food and plants into bone meal. To craft a composter, select a crafting table and place 7 wooden slabs along the left, bottom, and right edges of the 3x3 grid. Then drag the composter into your inventory.\\nTo craft wooden slabs, select a crafting table and place three wooden plank blocks along the bottom of the 3x3 grid. Then drag the wooden slabs into your inventory. 3 wooden plank blocks can craft 6 wooden slabs.\\n6-12. Gather materials to grow.\\nCarrots, potatoes, wheat seeds, beetroot, cocoa seeds, melons, and pumpkins can all be planted and grown.\\nCarrots, potatoes, beetroot, and wheat seeds can be harvested from garden plots that already exist in villages. You can also gather wheat seeds by breaking tall grass.\\n6-13. Use the hoe to till the garden.\\nPlace the hoe in your hot bar at the bottom of your inventory. Then equip it. Use it to till the soil two spaces on either side of the trench with water in it.\\n6-14. Place the composter.\\nTo place the composter, put it in your hot bar and equip it. Aim at the ground where you want to place the composter and right-click or squeeze the left trigger button. Place it next to the water trench or next to one of your tilled soil squares.\\nPlacing used food and plants in the composter has a chance of producing bone meal, which can be used as fertilizer to help your garden crops grow faster.\\n6-15. Plant your crops.\\nAfter the soil has been tilled, place your crops in your hot bar and plant it in the group by right-clicking or pressing the left trigger on the controller. Allow a few days for the crops to grow.\\n6-16. Harvest the crops.\\nAfter the crops are fully grown, click on them or press the right trigger to harvest them.\\nIf a villager has 3 bread, 12 carrots, 12 potatoes, or 12 beetroots in their inventory, they will become willing to breed.\\nTo craft bread, select a crafting table and place three wheat stalks in any row of the 3x3 grid. Drag the bread into your inventory.\\nTips\\nWhen breeding two villagers, keep them both in an enclosed space so that they do not wander away from each other.\\nWhen villagers are happy and have all their needs met, they are more willing to breed.\\nTry and breed villagers as often as possible, because more villagers mean more available trades, which increases the chance of you finding a good trade.\\nWarnings\\nTry and keep Zombie Villagers out of sunlight while curing them, because they will burn and die in sunlight, wasting your potion and golden apple.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Villagers are kind of a big deal in Minecraft. They help with farming, trading, and all kinds of other tasks. You definitely can’t have too many of them! The good news is that breeding villagers in Minecraft is really easy. This wikiHow article will walk you through how to do it step-by-step, including what you'll need to craft and give to your villagers in order to get them to breed.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Breeding Villagers\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Find a village.\", \"描述\": \"Villages generate at random locations on the map. Be patient. You may need to look around for a while to find a village. Villages can be found in the plains, snowy plains, deserts, taigas, snowy taigas, and savannah biomes. The village needs to have at least 2 villagers.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Build a structure to breed your villagers in (optional).\", \"描述\": \"This is not required to breed villagers, but building a structure will keep them from wandering off. Villagers need to be in close proximity in order to breed. It will also protect them from hostile mobs and raiders. The structure can be made out of any building material. It needs to be big enough to house all the villagers you want to breed as well as beds for each villager and the offspring they produce.\\nMake sure any windows are covered with glass or iron bars. Baby villagers can escape through open gaps in structures.\\nThe roof needs to be at least two block spaces above each bed in order for the villagers to be able to use them.\\nDon't build a door to your structure. Villagers can open and close doors. To prevent them from escaping, use a fence gate instead.\\nMake sure the area you keep your villagers is larger enough for them to get around. Your area should have at least 3 square blocks of empty space for each villager you want to breed.\\nVillager occupations are now determined by any available workstation block nearby (such as a fletching table, or composter). Any new villagers will automatically be registered to any available workstation in the village and assigned an occupation based on that workstation. If you have a specific occupation you want your new villagers to fill, you may want to build the structure at least 48 blocks away from any nearby workstations to keep them from registering an occupation automatically. Baby villagers will be assigned a nearby workstation when they become adults.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Craft at least 3 beds and place them in the village or structure.\", \"描述\": \"In order for villagers to breed, they need a bed for both the villagers that are breeding and the baby they produce. You will need to craft a new bed for each villager you want to produce. You can craft a bed from 3 blocks of wool and 3 wooden plank blocks using a crafting table.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Get at least two villagers close together.\", \"描述\": \"If you've built a structure, try to corral them into the structure and then wall off or gate the entrance so they can't wander off. You can move villagers by simply walking into them. This pushes them in the direction you want them to go. You can also use a boat to transport villagers, even on land. \\nYou can craft a boat out of a shovel, and 5 wooden plank blocks using a crafting table. Boats can be used to transport villagers, even on land (though it's really slow). Villagers will not be able to leave the boat until you break it apart.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Gather food for the villagers.\", \"描述\": \"Each villager has their own independent inventory that they use to keep items like food. In order for villagers to breed, they need either 3 loaves of bread, 12 carrots, 12 beetroot, or 12 potatoes in their inventory. The good news is, you won't need to go far to find these items because they can all be found inside the village.\\n\\n Carrots are grown by farmer villagers inside the village. You can harvest them from the village gardens once they are fully matured. Carrots are fully matured when the green leaves at the top are at their fullest and a tip of the orange carrot is sticking out of the ground where they are planted.\\n Potatoes are also grown by farmer villagers Potatoes can be harvested from village gardens. Potatoes are fully matured when there is a full stalk of leaves growing out of the ground where the potatoes are planted. However, sometimes you get a poisonous potato, which isn't useful for anything.\\n Beetroot is also grown by farmer villagers. However, unlike potatoes and carrots, you cannot plant the beetroot itself to grow more beetroot. You need to plant beetroot seeds in order to grow beetroot, which takes up more space in your inventory. Beetroot and beetroot seeds can be harvested from village gardens. Beetroot is fully mature when you can see the leaves and red of beetroot sticking out of the ground where they are planted.\\n You can purchase bread from villagers or craft it using three bushels of wheat and a crafting table. Sometimes, you can also find bread in chests in villages. Wheat is grown by farmer villagers in village gardens. Wheat is fully matured when it grows tall and turns slightly brown. Break fully matured wheat to obtain bushels of wheat.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Give food to the villagers.\", \"描述\": \"To give the villagers food simply drop it on the floor next to them. When the villagers walk over it, it will be added to their inventory. Once both villagers in close proximity have enough food in their inventory, they may become willing to breed. You can drop items by equipping them and pressing \\\"Q\\\" on your keyboard or the drop button on your controller. You can also drop items, by clicking them in your inventory and dragging it outside your inventory.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Trade with the villagers (optional, but recommended).\", \"描述\": \"Trading with villagers is not required to get them to breed, but it increases their happiness level, which makes them more willing to breed. Villagers have different items they are willing to trade for different items. Select a villager to see what they have to trade and what they want in return. Make sure you have the item they want in return in your inventory and select the option to trade with them.\\nEmeralds are one of the most commonly traded items in Minecraft.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Wait for the villagers to breed.\", \"描述\": \"You will know that villagers are breeding when they face each other and hearts float all around them. A tiny villager will emerge. It takes 20 minutes for a baby villager to mature into an adult.\\nIf your villagers are not breeding, there could be a number of reasons for it. It could be that the beds are already claimed by other villagers. The roof over the beds is too short, it could also be that villagers don't feel safe with whatever is in the surrounding area.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Breeding Villagers In Version 1.14 and Earlier\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Find a village.\", \"描述\": \"Villages generate at random locations in the game world. Villages can be found in the plains, desert, and savannah biomes. The village needs to have at least 2 villagers. Be patient. Villages are not always easy to find. You may have explored for a while before you find one. Use the map you get at the start of the game to keep track of your location.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Build more houses with doors in the village.\", \"描述\": \"In older versions of Minecraft, villagers will mate as long as the total population of villagers is less than 35% of the number of doors in a village. A valid door is any door where one side of the door leads to a room with a roof, while the other side leads to the outside.\\nTo make a valid door, technically all you need is a door with one block overhead on one side.\\nTo increase the number of doors in your village, you can build a single structure with multiple doors.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Build gardens for the villagers.\", \"描述\": \"Villagers love to grow crops. Most villages already have a couple of gardens already built in the village. You can build more to increase villager happiness levels and make them more willing to breed. To build gardens, find a well-lit area and dig a trench next to dirt blocks and fill the trench with water. Then use a hoe to till the dirt blocks. You can plant seeds or vegetables in the tilled dirt blocks, or allow the villagers to do it themselves. \\nYou can also throw food to villagers. Villagers become willing to breed when they have either 3 bread, 12 carrots, or 12 potatoes in their inventory.\\nTo craft bread, select a crafting table and place three wheat stalks in any row of the 3x3 grid. Drag the bread into your inventory.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Trade with the villagers.\", \"描述\": \"Trading with villagers is the primary way to make them willing to breed. Different villagers have different items they are willing to trade in exchange for different items. You must have the items the villager wants in your inventory to trade with them. Trading with the same villager multiple times unlocks new items the villager can trade. Trade with the villagers to increase their happiness level. Afterward, subsequent trades have a 1 in 5 chance of making the villager willing to breed again. Green particles appear when a villager has become willing to breed.\\nBeing willing to breed will not automatically make the villager seek out a mate. Two villagers that are willing to mate must be in close proximity. Trading with villagers will make them more willing to breed.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Wait for villagers to breed.\", \"描述\": \"Once two or more villagers in close proximity are willing to breed, they will breed automatically. You will know that villagers are breeding when they face each other and hearts float all around them. A tiny villager will emerge. It takes 20 minutes for a baby villager to mature into an adult.\\nAfter they mate, the villagers are no longer willing and must be made willing again.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Crafting Beds for Villagers\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Gather the materials.\", \"描述\": \"In order to craft one bed, you will need three wooden plank blocks, and three blocks of wool. You will also need a crafting table. Use the following steps to obtain the materials you need:\\n\\n To gather wood walk up to a tree and attack the trunk with your hands (or an axe) until the trunk blocks break apart and drops a small wooden log block. Walk over the wood block to pick it up. Then open the crafting menu and craft wood plank blocks from the wood.\\n Wool can be obtained by either killing sheep, or sheering them with a pair of sheers which can be crafted from two iron bars using a crafting table.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Craft a crafting table.\", \"描述\": \"In order to craft a crafting table, open your crafting menu and place 4 wooden plank blocks in the crafting grid to the right of your character. Then drag the crafting table to your inventory.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Place the crafting table and open it.\", \"描述\": \"Place the crafting table in your hot bar at the bottom of your inventory and equip it. Place it by aiming at the ground where you want the crafting table to go. Then right-click or press the left trigger button to place it.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Craft a bed.\", \"描述\": \"To craft a bed, open the crafting table, and place three wool blocks in the top row of the 3x3 crafting grid. Then place 3 wooden blocks in the middle row below the wool blocks. Drag the bed into your inventory.\\nYou can also craft different color beds using dyes.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Place the bed.\", \"描述\": \"To place a bed, place it in your hot bar and equip it. Aim at the ground where you want to place the bed, and right-click or press the left trigger to place it where you want it to go.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Building Houses in the Village\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Gather building materials.\", \"描述\": \"Village houses can be made out of any material you want. Not all materials require tools to harvest or mine, but tools make the process quicker. The following are common materials, and how to gather them:\\n\\n Dirt is found all over. To gather dirt, simply attack with your hand (or a shovel) until the dirt block breaks apart and drops a small dirt block. Walk over the small dirt block to collect it.\\n To gather wood, walk up to a tree and attack the trunk with your hands (or an axe) until the trunk blocks break apart and drop a small wood block. Walk over the wood block to pick it up. Then open the crafting menu and craft wood plank blocks from the wood blocks.\\n Cobblestone is a bit sturdier (and more resistant to creeper explosions). To mine cobblestone, you first need to craft a pickaxe. Equip the pickaxe from the menu. Equip the pickaxe and attack stone blocks inside caves or along the sides of mountains.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Select a location.\", \"描述\": \"Make sure the location you select is within the village. The game calculates the center of the village as the average coordinates of all the doors in the village. The outer parameter of the villages is either 32 blocks from the center, or the furthest door from the center, depending on which is greater.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Build a structure.\", \"描述\": \"Use the building materials you gather to build the outside of a house or structure. It can be any shape you want as long as it has opaque blocks overhead to act as a roof. It should be at least three blocks tall so that the villagers (and the player) have room to move around inside. Leave a space that is 2 blocks tall in the wall for the door or gate. If you are playing a newer version of Minecraft, use a gate instead of a door, to prevent villagers from escaping.\\nTo build, place your building material in your hot bar at the bottom of your inventory. Highlight the material in your hot bar to equip it. Aim at the ground where you want to place a building material, then right-click (or press the left trigger button) to place a block.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Build a crafting table and place it.\", \"描述\": \"A crafting table is built using four wood plank blocks in the crafting menu. After you build a crafting table, place it anywhere in the game world.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Use the crafting table to craft a door or a gate.\", \"描述\": \"To make a gate, select the crafting table and place 4 sticks in the bottom left and right corners, and the center-right and left sides of the 3x3 grid. Then place 2 wooden plank blocks in the center and bottom center of the 3x3 grid. Drag the fence gate into your inventory. To craft a door, select the crafting table and place 6 wood plank blocks in the 3x3 grid in the crafting table. Drag the door into your inventory.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Place the door or gate in your structure.\", \"描述\": \"To place the door or gate in your structure, place it in your hot bar and then select the corresponding space to equip the gate or door. Then aim at the ground where you want to place it, and right-click (or press the left trigger button on your game controller) to place the door.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Trading with Villagers\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Select a villager.\", \"描述\": \"To select a villager, stand in front of them, and aim at them. Right-click or press the left trigger button on the controller. This displays their inventory window.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Examine the villager's inventory.\", \"描述\": \"The spaces at the top of the window display what the villager has for sale. The box in the lower-left corner of the window displays what the villager requires for the trade. You must have the item they want in your inventory to make a trade.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Select the item you want to buy.\", \"描述\": \"To select an item, click it or press the confirm button on your controller. The item you are trading will automatically be removed from your inventory, and the item you are purchasing will be placed in your inventory.\\nVillagers have only one or two items when you first trade with them. The more you trade with them, the more items they will have for sale.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Building Gardens for Villagers\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Mine cobblestone, coal, and iron ore.\", \"描述\": \"All of these materials are found in caves. You need a pickaxe to mine these materials.\\nStone blocks are grey blocks that resemble stone. Use a pickaxe to mine cobblestone from stone blocks.\\nCoal blocks look like stone blocks with black spots. Use a pickaxe to mine coal from the coal blocks.\\nIron ore blocks look like stone blocks with yellowish spots on them. Use a stone pickaxe or stronger to mine iron ore.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Build a crafting table and place it.\", \"描述\": \"A crafting table is built using four wood plank blocks in the crafting menu. After you build a crafting table, place it anywhere in the world.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Craft a furnace\", \"描述\": \"To craft a furnace, select the crafting table and place 8 cobblestone blocks along all sides of the 3x3 grid. Drag the furnace into your hot bar below your inventory. Place the furnace in your hot bar and equip it. Aim at the ground where you want to place it and right-click (or press the left trigger button) to place it.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Use the furnace to smelt the iron.\", \"描述\": \"To smelt your iron ore, select the furnace and place the coal in the fuel space (the space below the icon that resembles flames). Then place your iron ore blocks in the space above the flame. Allow a few minutes for the iron to finish smelting. When your iron ore is finished smelting, select the furnace and drag the iron bars from the square on the right and place them in your inventory.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Use the crafting table to craft a bucket.\", \"描述\": \"To craft a bucket, select the crafting table and place an iron block in the left-center, right-center, and bottom-center space of the 3x3 grid. Then drag the bucket into your inventory.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Find a well-lit area in the village.\", \"描述\": \"Find an area in the village that gets plenty of sunlight, and is about 5x10 dirt blocks wide.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Dig a trench down the center of your garden.\", \"描述\": \"You can use your hand (or a shovel) to dig a trench down the center of the garden. The trench should only be 1 block deep.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Use the bucket to gather water.\", \"描述\": \"Place the bucket in your hot bar and equip it. Then locate a nearby water source and use the bucket to gather water. Equip the bucket in your hot bar and click any area that has water to fill the bucket.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Fill the trench with water.\", \"描述\": \"After you gather water, return to your garden with the trench and dump the water in the trench to fill it. Equip the bucket full of water in your hot bar and click the empty trench to fill it full of water. It may take a couple of trips to completely fill the trench.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Use the crafting table to craft a hoe.\", \"描述\": \"To craft a hoe, select the crafting table and place two sticks in the center, and bottom-center spaces of the 3x3 grid. Then place two wooden plank, cobblestone, iron bar, or diamonds in the upper-center and upper-left spaces. Drag the hoe into your inventory.\\nSticks are crafted from wood plank blocks in the crafting menu.\"}, {\"编号\": 11, \"标题\": \"Use the crafting table to craft a composter.\", \"描述\": \"In version 1.14, composters were added as a villager workstation. When placed next to a garden, a villager that does not have an occupation can claim the workstation and become a farmer. Composters can also be used to recycle old food and plants into bone meal. To craft a composter, select a crafting table and place 7 wooden slabs along the left, bottom, and right edges of the 3x3 grid. Then drag the composter into your inventory.\\nTo craft wooden slabs, select a crafting table and place three wooden plank blocks along the bottom of the 3x3 grid. Then drag the wooden slabs into your inventory. 3 wooden plank blocks can craft 6 wooden slabs.\"}, {\"编号\": 12, \"标题\": \"Gather materials to grow.\", \"描述\": \"Carrots, potatoes, wheat seeds, beetroot, cocoa seeds, melons, and pumpkins can all be planted and grown.\\nCarrots, potatoes, beetroot, and wheat seeds can be harvested from garden plots that already exist in villages. You can also gather wheat seeds by breaking tall grass.\"}, {\"编号\": 13, \"标题\": \"Use the hoe to till the garden.\", \"描述\": \"Place the hoe in your hot bar at the bottom of your inventory. Then equip it. Use it to till the soil two spaces on either side of the trench with water in it.\"}, {\"编号\": 14, \"标题\": \"Place the composter.\", \"描述\": \"To place the composter, put it in your hot bar and equip it. Aim at the ground where you want to place the composter and right-click or squeeze the left trigger button. Place it next to the water trench or next to one of your tilled soil squares.\\nPlacing used food and plants in the composter has a chance of producing bone meal, which can be used as fertilizer to help your garden crops grow faster.\"}, {\"编号\": 15, \"标题\": \"Plant your crops.\", \"描述\": \"After the soil has been tilled, place your crops in your hot bar and plant it in the group by right-clicking or pressing the left trigger on the controller. Allow a few days for the crops to grow.\"}, {\"编号\": 16, \"标题\": \"Harvest the crops.\", \"描述\": \"After the crops are fully grown, click on them or press the right trigger to harvest them.\\nIf a villager has 3 bread, 12 carrots, 12 potatoes, or 12 beetroots in their inventory, they will become willing to breed.\\nTo craft bread, select a crafting table and place three wheat stalks in any row of the 3x3 grid. Drag the bread into your inventory.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"When breeding two villagers, keep them both in an enclosed space so that they do not wander away from each other.\\n\", \"When villagers are happy and have all their needs met, they are more willing to breed.\\n\", \"Try and breed villagers as often as possible, because more villagers mean more available trades, which increases the chance of you finding a good trade.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Try and keep Zombie Villagers out of sunlight while curing them, because they will burn and die in sunlight, wasting your potion and golden apple.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
6,957 |
How to Breed Worms
|
1. Setting up Your Habitat
1-1. Get a small plastic or wood box to house your worms inside.
Worms won’t suffer from too much space, but if your container is too big it may be hard to find your worms when you want them. Get a container that is at least 3 ft (91 cm) wide for every 2 lb (0.91 kg) of worms that you want to house. Your container must be at least 2 ft (61 cm) long and 2 ft (61 cm) deep.
Plastic is the best option for your box since it’s easy to care for. You also can use wood if you’d like though. If you use wood, don’t get chemically-treated lumber.
If you’re raising worms for compost, the more space that you have the better.
Your container must have a lid to keep the worms inside and any predators out.
1-2. Embed a bin without a bottom outside, 1–2 ft (0.30–0.61 m) in the ground.
If you want to store your worms outside, you can cut the bottom out of a plastic bin with a utility knife. Bury it 1–2 ft (0.30–0.61 m) into the ground outside under a canopy or cover. The worms won’t leave if you feed them consistently and keep it warm. You will have to deal with predators though, so keep a heavy lid on top of your worms to keep foxes, birds, or rodents out.
Worms need darkness to successfully breed, so get a bin with opaque sides and place it under an overhang, roof, or canopy.
Worms need the temperature to be at least 60 °F (16 °C). Do not store your worms outside if you live in an area with a long or frigid winter.
1-3. Drill 12-18 holes in the bottom of the bin for drainage.
Use a drill or screw to puncture 12-18 holes in the bottom of your bin based on the size of the container. Make each hole at least 1 in (2.5 cm) in diameter to ensure that moisture drains properly and that the soil is exposed to air. Don’t worry about your worms crawling out; if you feed them regularly and keep the temperature warm, the worms won’t have an incentive to go anywhere else.
You do not need to drill drainage holes if your bin is embedded in the ground outside.
1-4. Fill your box with organic soil and compost bedding.
Start by filling the bottom of your habitat with organic soil. Spread the soil around as you pour it and don’t compact it. When you get within 10–12 in (25–30 cm) from the rim of the container, add a layer of manure, leaves, paper, or salt-free food waste. Then, continue adding soil until you’ve covered the compost layer with at least 6 in (15 cm) of soil.
The worms will use the layer of compost as their building and bedding material. You don’t need to replace this layer. When you feed the worms, they’ll naturally replace it themselves. Over time, they will break it down into a rich soil that can be used as fertilizer.
The pH level of the soil must be between 6.8 and 7.2. The pH level is listed on a bag of soil. If you want to test it regularly, buy a digital pH probe and stick it into the soil.
2. Getting Your Worms
2-1. Purchase red worms if you want to use them for composting.
Red worms are the best choice if you want to raise worms for composting. They eat a lot and they reproduce easily. If you’re buying red worms for composting, buy 2 pounds (0.91 kg) of worms for every 1 lb (0.45 kg) of garbage that your household creates every day.
Red worms are also known as red wigglers. Some breeders market larger red worms as wigglers, but they’re basically the same thing.
Red worms are a type of manure worm. Manure worms are known for their ability to eat organic matter.
Using worms for composting is known as vermicomposting.
2-2. Go with nightcrawlers if you want to use the worms as fish bait.
Nightcrawlers, also known as earthworms, are the standard worm that most people see on the side of the road after it rains. They’re larger than red worms, which makes them better fish bait. They do tend to breed slower than red worms though. Buy any amount of nightcrawlers to raise for fishing.
Field worms are another type of worm that look similar to nightcrawlers. However, they don’t make better bait than nightcrawlers and they’re harder to breed.
2-3. Buy your worms from a reputable worm dealer.
Worm breeders sell their worms to be used as fishing bait or compost worms. Find a worm dealer online near you or ask your fishing buddies if they have any recommendations.
It can be hard to figure out if you’re getting healthy worms from a good source since worms don’t really communicate their health in any visible way. The good news is that they’re cheap, so if you get a bad batch, you can always try again with a different buyer.
You can find earthworms and collect them on your own if you’d like. They commonly come to the surface of the soil after it rains. Red worms are much harder to find in the wild, but you can find them under heaps of leaves and in compost piles.
2-4. Add your worms to the habitat.
To start breeding your worms, add them to the top of the soil. Close the lid and leave them alone for at least 24 hours to give them time to burrow and find the compost layer.
3. Maintaining Your Worms
3-1. Feed your worms roughly once a week to keep them healthy.
Worms can eat animal manure, food scraps, shredded paper, or cardboard. To start, give the worms 2–3 lb (0.91–1.36 kg) of food for every 1 lb (0.45 kg) of worms that you’ve bought. After 12-24 hours of feeding your worms, check the worms to see if they’re eating it. If the worms are dying, remove it. Monitor how long it takes them to consume the food you’ve given them. Adjust the amount of food you give them in the future so that it takes them roughly 1 week to eat all of the food.
The feeding cycle is incredibly important when it comes time to harvest your worms. If they aren’t on a fixed cycle where the worms get food on a specific day, it will be harder to harvest them. The worms will naturally move towards the top of the soil on feeding day and this will help you remove some of them when it comes time to expand your collection.
If worms die after feeding them, remove whatever food you gave them and try a different feeding material. If you feed them food waste, make sure that it’s low in salt. Sodium can kill your worms.
3-2. Mist the soil 1-2 times a week to keep it damp.
Worms are the happiest when there’s a little bit of moisture in their soil. To keep your worms happy, fill a spray bottle with tap water and mist the top of the soil 1-2 times a week as needed. For each misting, spray the top of the soil 5-6 times to add a layer of moisture. Be careful not to soak the soil through, though; worms can drown if you add too much water.
If you see the worms coming to the top of the soil when you check them 1 day after the misting, you’re adding too much water.
3-3. Keep the worms in the dark to keep them happy.
Worms are nocturnal and will actively avoid sunlight. To keep your worms happy and healthy, keep them in low-light conditions as often as you can. It’s okay to turn the light on when going to inspect their habitat, and you won’t harm them if they get a few minutes of light, but they may start dying if you leave them under a light for more than 6-7 hours.
If you store your worms outside, put them under a canopy or overhang to keep them in the shade for most of the day.
3-4. Maintain a temperature of 60–80 °F (16–27 °C) to promote breeding.
Worms do no not do well in the cold, and will die if they’re exposed to low temperatures. To keep the worms content and promote reproduction, keep the temperature in the room between 60–80 °F (16–27 °C). Either keep your heating turned on, or store them somewhere that’s consistently warm.
If you can’t bring the worms inside in the winter and it gets cold where you live, get a heat lamp and wire cage. Set the habitat inside of the wire cage and set the heat lamp on top to keep the worms warm.
4. Harvesting Your Worms
4-1. Harvest your worms after 3-6 months of feeding.
After you’ve consistently fed the worms every week for 3-6 months, they’ll have had enough time to reproduce and grow. Harvesting the worms involves replacing the soil and creating a new habitat for your excess worms. If you harvest your worms before 3 months have passed, you’ll be removing worms before the infant worms have had time to mature.
Worms take roughly 2 months to lay cocoons and hatch infantile worms. The new worms won’t grow to their mature size for at least another month after they’ve hatched.
If you don’t see more worms than you normally do when you go to feed them, the infantile worms are likely not grown yet. Check them again in a month.
Harvesting the worms allows you to thin their population out, which will keep them happy and healthy. It will also encourage the worms to continue breeding.
4-2. Prepare a second habitat for the expanded population of worms.
If you’re not going fishing with your worms and want to expand your population, you’ll need a second habitat to store your worms. If your worm population has grown, it’s a sign that your habitat was well-made. Create a second habitat that is identical to the first. Add your soil and a layer of compost 6 inches (15 cm) below the surface.
4-3. Stop adding food 2 weeks before you want to harvest.
Stop your feeding cycle 2 weeks before you want to harvest your worms. This will encourage the worms to come to the upper layers of the soil, which will make it easier for you to harvest them.
4-4. Scoop the top layer of soil into a separate container.
Get a separate container roughly 1/2 the size of the habitat. This should be a plastic or rubber bin with no holes at the bottom. Set it up next to your worm habitat. Turn a bright light on, and gently scoop the soil into the bin with a hand scooper. Continue scooping soil until you’ve filled the rubber or plastic bin with the top half of your soil.
Scoop up the compost layer along with the soil.
With the light on, your worms will start to burrow into the deeper layers of the soil. You’ll scoop out roughly half of the worms that don’t make it all the way to the bottom half of the soil when you turn the light on.
If your collection is really large, you can use a shovel instead of a scooper.
4-5. Remove layers from your new bin in 10-minute increments.
Leave the light on and set your new bin under it for 10 minutes to give the worms time to burrow deeper into the soil. After 10 minutes, use your scooper to remove the top 2–3 inches (5.1–7.6 cm) of your soil. Then, wait another 10 minutes and repeat this process. Continue doing this until almost all of the soil is removed. Discard the excess soil or use it in your yard as fertilizer.
Do this outside if you want to minimize the mess that you’re going to make.
It takes the worms quite a bit to move down a few layers, so take your time in between scoops.
Be gentler the deeper you go. Throw on some gloves and remove the last 2-3 layers by hand if you don’t want to crush any worms.
4-6. Add the worms you removed to their new habitat.
Place some food scraps or manure in the new habitat. Then, carefully pour the worms that you removed into their new home. The worms will feed and get to work building a new bedding layer.
Pick up and discard any dead worms that you find. It’s natural for a few worms to die as you breed them.
4-7. Move the soil in the old habitat to one side.
Put on a pair of gloves. In the bin where you originally held your worms, push the soil to one side of the container. Pile the soil up as best that you can to keep the worms on one side.
Feel free to use the scooper if that’s easier for you.
4-8. Pour fresh soil into the empty side and add some food.
With roughly half of the bin empty, grab a fresh bag of soil. Pour it into the side of the bin that doesn’t have any soil in it and place some food waste on top of the fresh soil. The worms will naturally start to move towards the fresh soil, since it’s richer in nutrients. The food will encourage the worms to stay on that side of the habitat.
Keep feeding the worms on top of the fresh soil. This will ensure that the worms make the fresher side their home.
4-9. Replace the old soil after 2-3 weeks.
After your worms have had some time to settle into the new soil, you’ll need to remove the old soil. Use your scooper to gently remove the side with the old soil in it. There shouldn’t be very many worms in there, but if there are, simply put them on top of the soil on the fresh side. Pour fresh soil into the half that you emptied to replenish the habitat.
Repeat this process every 3-6 months to keep your collection of worms growing.
Tips
If you notice a lot of worms dying when you first put them in the habitat, the soil is no good. Replace it with an organic soil that is free of additives.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:58:40",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Setting up Your Habitat\\n1-1. Get a small plastic or wood box to house your worms inside.\\nWorms won’t suffer from too much space, but if your container is too big it may be hard to find your worms when you want them. Get a container that is at least 3 ft (91 cm) wide for every 2 lb (0.91 kg) of worms that you want to house. Your container must be at least 2 ft (61 cm) long and 2 ft (61 cm) deep.\\nPlastic is the best option for your box since it’s easy to care for. You also can use wood if you’d like though. If you use wood, don’t get chemically-treated lumber.\\nIf you’re raising worms for compost, the more space that you have the better.\\nYour container must have a lid to keep the worms inside and any predators out.\\n1-2. Embed a bin without a bottom outside, 1–2 ft (0.30–0.61 m) in the ground.\\nIf you want to store your worms outside, you can cut the bottom out of a plastic bin with a utility knife. Bury it 1–2 ft (0.30–0.61 m) into the ground outside under a canopy or cover. The worms won’t leave if you feed them consistently and keep it warm. You will have to deal with predators though, so keep a heavy lid on top of your worms to keep foxes, birds, or rodents out.\\nWorms need darkness to successfully breed, so get a bin with opaque sides and place it under an overhang, roof, or canopy.\\nWorms need the temperature to be at least 60 °F (16 °C). Do not store your worms outside if you live in an area with a long or frigid winter.\\n1-3. Drill 12-18 holes in the bottom of the bin for drainage.\\nUse a drill or screw to puncture 12-18 holes in the bottom of your bin based on the size of the container. Make each hole at least 1 in (2.5 cm) in diameter to ensure that moisture drains properly and that the soil is exposed to air. Don’t worry about your worms crawling out; if you feed them regularly and keep the temperature warm, the worms won’t have an incentive to go anywhere else.\\nYou do not need to drill drainage holes if your bin is embedded in the ground outside.\\n1-4. Fill your box with organic soil and compost bedding.\\nStart by filling the bottom of your habitat with organic soil. Spread the soil around as you pour it and don’t compact it. When you get within 10–12 in (25–30 cm) from the rim of the container, add a layer of manure, leaves, paper, or salt-free food waste. Then, continue adding soil until you’ve covered the compost layer with at least 6 in (15 cm) of soil.\\nThe worms will use the layer of compost as their building and bedding material. You don’t need to replace this layer. When you feed the worms, they’ll naturally replace it themselves. Over time, they will break it down into a rich soil that can be used as fertilizer.\\nThe pH level of the soil must be between 6.8 and 7.2. The pH level is listed on a bag of soil. If you want to test it regularly, buy a digital pH probe and stick it into the soil.\\n2. Getting Your Worms\\n2-1. Purchase red worms if you want to use them for composting.\\nRed worms are the best choice if you want to raise worms for composting. They eat a lot and they reproduce easily. If you’re buying red worms for composting, buy 2 pounds (0.91 kg) of worms for every 1 lb (0.45 kg) of garbage that your household creates every day.\\nRed worms are also known as red wigglers. Some breeders market larger red worms as wigglers, but they’re basically the same thing.\\nRed worms are a type of manure worm. Manure worms are known for their ability to eat organic matter.\\nUsing worms for composting is known as vermicomposting.\\n2-2. Go with nightcrawlers if you want to use the worms as fish bait.\\nNightcrawlers, also known as earthworms, are the standard worm that most people see on the side of the road after it rains. They’re larger than red worms, which makes them better fish bait. They do tend to breed slower than red worms though. Buy any amount of nightcrawlers to raise for fishing.\\nField worms are another type of worm that look similar to nightcrawlers. However, they don’t make better bait than nightcrawlers and they’re harder to breed.\\n2-3. Buy your worms from a reputable worm dealer.\\nWorm breeders sell their worms to be used as fishing bait or compost worms. Find a worm dealer online near you or ask your fishing buddies if they have any recommendations.\\nIt can be hard to figure out if you’re getting healthy worms from a good source since worms don’t really communicate their health in any visible way. The good news is that they’re cheap, so if you get a bad batch, you can always try again with a different buyer.\\nYou can find earthworms and collect them on your own if you’d like. They commonly come to the surface of the soil after it rains. Red worms are much harder to find in the wild, but you can find them under heaps of leaves and in compost piles.\\n2-4. Add your worms to the habitat.\\nTo start breeding your worms, add them to the top of the soil. Close the lid and leave them alone for at least 24 hours to give them time to burrow and find the compost layer.\\n3. Maintaining Your Worms\\n3-1. Feed your worms roughly once a week to keep them healthy.\\nWorms can eat animal manure, food scraps, shredded paper, or cardboard. To start, give the worms 2–3 lb (0.91–1.36 kg) of food for every 1 lb (0.45 kg) of worms that you’ve bought. After 12-24 hours of feeding your worms, check the worms to see if they’re eating it. If the worms are dying, remove it. Monitor how long it takes them to consume the food you’ve given them. Adjust the amount of food you give them in the future so that it takes them roughly 1 week to eat all of the food.\\nThe feeding cycle is incredibly important when it comes time to harvest your worms. If they aren’t on a fixed cycle where the worms get food on a specific day, it will be harder to harvest them. The worms will naturally move towards the top of the soil on feeding day and this will help you remove some of them when it comes time to expand your collection.\\nIf worms die after feeding them, remove whatever food you gave them and try a different feeding material. If you feed them food waste, make sure that it’s low in salt. Sodium can kill your worms.\\n3-2. Mist the soil 1-2 times a week to keep it damp.\\nWorms are the happiest when there’s a little bit of moisture in their soil. To keep your worms happy, fill a spray bottle with tap water and mist the top of the soil 1-2 times a week as needed. For each misting, spray the top of the soil 5-6 times to add a layer of moisture. Be careful not to soak the soil through, though; worms can drown if you add too much water.\\nIf you see the worms coming to the top of the soil when you check them 1 day after the misting, you’re adding too much water.\\n3-3. Keep the worms in the dark to keep them happy.\\nWorms are nocturnal and will actively avoid sunlight. To keep your worms happy and healthy, keep them in low-light conditions as often as you can. It’s okay to turn the light on when going to inspect their habitat, and you won’t harm them if they get a few minutes of light, but they may start dying if you leave them under a light for more than 6-7 hours.\\nIf you store your worms outside, put them under a canopy or overhang to keep them in the shade for most of the day.\\n3-4. Maintain a temperature of 60–80 °F (16–27 °C) to promote breeding.\\nWorms do no not do well in the cold, and will die if they’re exposed to low temperatures. To keep the worms content and promote reproduction, keep the temperature in the room between 60–80 °F (16–27 °C). Either keep your heating turned on, or store them somewhere that’s consistently warm.\\nIf you can’t bring the worms inside in the winter and it gets cold where you live, get a heat lamp and wire cage. Set the habitat inside of the wire cage and set the heat lamp on top to keep the worms warm.\\n4. Harvesting Your Worms\\n4-1. Harvest your worms after 3-6 months of feeding.\\nAfter you’ve consistently fed the worms every week for 3-6 months, they’ll have had enough time to reproduce and grow. Harvesting the worms involves replacing the soil and creating a new habitat for your excess worms. If you harvest your worms before 3 months have passed, you’ll be removing worms before the infant worms have had time to mature.\\nWorms take roughly 2 months to lay cocoons and hatch infantile worms. The new worms won’t grow to their mature size for at least another month after they’ve hatched.\\nIf you don’t see more worms than you normally do when you go to feed them, the infantile worms are likely not grown yet. Check them again in a month.\\nHarvesting the worms allows you to thin their population out, which will keep them happy and healthy. It will also encourage the worms to continue breeding.\\n4-2. Prepare a second habitat for the expanded population of worms.\\nIf you’re not going fishing with your worms and want to expand your population, you’ll need a second habitat to store your worms. If your worm population has grown, it’s a sign that your habitat was well-made. Create a second habitat that is identical to the first. Add your soil and a layer of compost 6 inches (15 cm) below the surface.\\n4-3. Stop adding food 2 weeks before you want to harvest.\\nStop your feeding cycle 2 weeks before you want to harvest your worms. This will encourage the worms to come to the upper layers of the soil, which will make it easier for you to harvest them.\\n4-4. Scoop the top layer of soil into a separate container.\\nGet a separate container roughly 1/2 the size of the habitat. This should be a plastic or rubber bin with no holes at the bottom. Set it up next to your worm habitat. Turn a bright light on, and gently scoop the soil into the bin with a hand scooper. Continue scooping soil until you’ve filled the rubber or plastic bin with the top half of your soil.\\nScoop up the compost layer along with the soil.\\nWith the light on, your worms will start to burrow into the deeper layers of the soil. You’ll scoop out roughly half of the worms that don’t make it all the way to the bottom half of the soil when you turn the light on.\\nIf your collection is really large, you can use a shovel instead of a scooper.\\n4-5. Remove layers from your new bin in 10-minute increments.\\nLeave the light on and set your new bin under it for 10 minutes to give the worms time to burrow deeper into the soil. After 10 minutes, use your scooper to remove the top 2–3 inches (5.1–7.6 cm) of your soil. Then, wait another 10 minutes and repeat this process. Continue doing this until almost all of the soil is removed. Discard the excess soil or use it in your yard as fertilizer.\\nDo this outside if you want to minimize the mess that you’re going to make.\\nIt takes the worms quite a bit to move down a few layers, so take your time in between scoops.\\nBe gentler the deeper you go. Throw on some gloves and remove the last 2-3 layers by hand if you don’t want to crush any worms.\\n4-6. Add the worms you removed to their new habitat.\\nPlace some food scraps or manure in the new habitat. Then, carefully pour the worms that you removed into their new home. The worms will feed and get to work building a new bedding layer.\\nPick up and discard any dead worms that you find. It’s natural for a few worms to die as you breed them.\\n4-7. Move the soil in the old habitat to one side.\\nPut on a pair of gloves. In the bin where you originally held your worms, push the soil to one side of the container. Pile the soil up as best that you can to keep the worms on one side.\\nFeel free to use the scooper if that’s easier for you.\\n4-8. Pour fresh soil into the empty side and add some food.\\nWith roughly half of the bin empty, grab a fresh bag of soil. Pour it into the side of the bin that doesn’t have any soil in it and place some food waste on top of the fresh soil. The worms will naturally start to move towards the fresh soil, since it’s richer in nutrients. The food will encourage the worms to stay on that side of the habitat.\\nKeep feeding the worms on top of the fresh soil. This will ensure that the worms make the fresher side their home.\\n4-9. Replace the old soil after 2-3 weeks.\\nAfter your worms have had some time to settle into the new soil, you’ll need to remove the old soil. Use your scooper to gently remove the side with the old soil in it. There shouldn’t be very many worms in there, but if there are, simply put them on top of the soil on the fresh side. Pour fresh soil into the half that you emptied to replenish the habitat.\\nRepeat this process every 3-6 months to keep your collection of worms growing.\\nTips\\nIf you notice a lot of worms dying when you first put them in the habitat, the soil is no good. Replace it with an organic soil that is free of additives.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Breeding worms is a fantastic way to save money on bait if you’re a fan of fishing. They’re also an excellent way to get rid of food waste and paper organically. To breed worms, set up a plastic or wood bin with drainage holes at the bottom. Fill it with soil and compost bedding. Then, add your worms and feed them food scraps, paper, or manure once a week. After 3-6 months, harvest your worms by separating the soil and adding half of the worms to a new container.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Setting up Your Habitat\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Get a small plastic or wood box to house your worms inside.\", \"描述\": \"Worms won’t suffer from too much space, but if your container is too big it may be hard to find your worms when you want them. Get a container that is at least 3 ft (91 cm) wide for every 2 lb (0.91 kg) of worms that you want to house. Your container must be at least 2 ft (61 cm) long and 2 ft (61 cm) deep.\\nPlastic is the best option for your box since it’s easy to care for. You also can use wood if you’d like though. If you use wood, don’t get chemically-treated lumber.\\nIf you’re raising worms for compost, the more space that you have the better.\\nYour container must have a lid to keep the worms inside and any predators out.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Embed a bin without a bottom outside, 1–2 ft (0.30–0.61 m) in the ground.\", \"描述\": \"If you want to store your worms outside, you can cut the bottom out of a plastic bin with a utility knife. Bury it 1–2 ft (0.30–0.61 m) into the ground outside under a canopy or cover. The worms won’t leave if you feed them consistently and keep it warm. You will have to deal with predators though, so keep a heavy lid on top of your worms to keep foxes, birds, or rodents out.\\nWorms need darkness to successfully breed, so get a bin with opaque sides and place it under an overhang, roof, or canopy.\\nWorms need the temperature to be at least 60 °F (16 °C). Do not store your worms outside if you live in an area with a long or frigid winter.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Drill 12-18 holes in the bottom of the bin for drainage.\", \"描述\": \"Use a drill or screw to puncture 12-18 holes in the bottom of your bin based on the size of the container. Make each hole at least 1 in (2.5 cm) in diameter to ensure that moisture drains properly and that the soil is exposed to air. Don’t worry about your worms crawling out; if you feed them regularly and keep the temperature warm, the worms won’t have an incentive to go anywhere else.\\nYou do not need to drill drainage holes if your bin is embedded in the ground outside.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Fill your box with organic soil and compost bedding.\", \"描述\": \"Start by filling the bottom of your habitat with organic soil. Spread the soil around as you pour it and don’t compact it. When you get within 10–12 in (25–30 cm) from the rim of the container, add a layer of manure, leaves, paper, or salt-free food waste. Then, continue adding soil until you’ve covered the compost layer with at least 6 in (15 cm) of soil.\\nThe worms will use the layer of compost as their building and bedding material. You don’t need to replace this layer. When you feed the worms, they’ll naturally replace it themselves. Over time, they will break it down into a rich soil that can be used as fertilizer.\\nThe pH level of the soil must be between 6.8 and 7.2. The pH level is listed on a bag of soil. If you want to test it regularly, buy a digital pH probe and stick it into the soil.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Getting Your Worms\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Purchase red worms if you want to use them for composting.\", \"描述\": \"Red worms are the best choice if you want to raise worms for composting. They eat a lot and they reproduce easily. If you’re buying red worms for composting, buy 2 pounds (0.91 kg) of worms for every 1 lb (0.45 kg) of garbage that your household creates every day.\\nRed worms are also known as red wigglers. Some breeders market larger red worms as wigglers, but they’re basically the same thing.\\nRed worms are a type of manure worm. Manure worms are known for their ability to eat organic matter.\\nUsing worms for composting is known as vermicomposting.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Go with nightcrawlers if you want to use the worms as fish bait.\", \"描述\": \"Nightcrawlers, also known as earthworms, are the standard worm that most people see on the side of the road after it rains. They’re larger than red worms, which makes them better fish bait. They do tend to breed slower than red worms though. Buy any amount of nightcrawlers to raise for fishing.\\nField worms are another type of worm that look similar to nightcrawlers. However, they don’t make better bait than nightcrawlers and they’re harder to breed.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Buy your worms from a reputable worm dealer.\", \"描述\": \"Worm breeders sell their worms to be used as fishing bait or compost worms. Find a worm dealer online near you or ask your fishing buddies if they have any recommendations.\\nIt can be hard to figure out if you’re getting healthy worms from a good source since worms don’t really communicate their health in any visible way. The good news is that they’re cheap, so if you get a bad batch, you can always try again with a different buyer.\\nYou can find earthworms and collect them on your own if you’d like. They commonly come to the surface of the soil after it rains. Red worms are much harder to find in the wild, but you can find them under heaps of leaves and in compost piles.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Add your worms to the habitat.\", \"描述\": \"To start breeding your worms, add them to the top of the soil. Close the lid and leave them alone for at least 24 hours to give them time to burrow and find the compost layer.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Maintaining Your Worms\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Feed your worms roughly once a week to keep them healthy.\", \"描述\": \"Worms can eat animal manure, food scraps, shredded paper, or cardboard. To start, give the worms 2–3 lb (0.91–1.36 kg) of food for every 1 lb (0.45 kg) of worms that you’ve bought. After 12-24 hours of feeding your worms, check the worms to see if they’re eating it. If the worms are dying, remove it. Monitor how long it takes them to consume the food you’ve given them. Adjust the amount of food you give them in the future so that it takes them roughly 1 week to eat all of the food.\\nThe feeding cycle is incredibly important when it comes time to harvest your worms. If they aren’t on a fixed cycle where the worms get food on a specific day, it will be harder to harvest them. The worms will naturally move towards the top of the soil on feeding day and this will help you remove some of them when it comes time to expand your collection.\\nIf worms die after feeding them, remove whatever food you gave them and try a different feeding material. If you feed them food waste, make sure that it’s low in salt. Sodium can kill your worms.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Mist the soil 1-2 times a week to keep it damp.\", \"描述\": \"Worms are the happiest when there’s a little bit of moisture in their soil. To keep your worms happy, fill a spray bottle with tap water and mist the top of the soil 1-2 times a week as needed. For each misting, spray the top of the soil 5-6 times to add a layer of moisture. Be careful not to soak the soil through, though; worms can drown if you add too much water.\\nIf you see the worms coming to the top of the soil when you check them 1 day after the misting, you’re adding too much water.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Keep the worms in the dark to keep them happy.\", \"描述\": \"Worms are nocturnal and will actively avoid sunlight. To keep your worms happy and healthy, keep them in low-light conditions as often as you can. It’s okay to turn the light on when going to inspect their habitat, and you won’t harm them if they get a few minutes of light, but they may start dying if you leave them under a light for more than 6-7 hours.\\nIf you store your worms outside, put them under a canopy or overhang to keep them in the shade for most of the day.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Maintain a temperature of 60–80 °F (16–27 °C) to promote breeding.\", \"描述\": \"Worms do no not do well in the cold, and will die if they’re exposed to low temperatures. To keep the worms content and promote reproduction, keep the temperature in the room between 60–80 °F (16–27 °C). Either keep your heating turned on, or store them somewhere that’s consistently warm.\\nIf you can’t bring the worms inside in the winter and it gets cold where you live, get a heat lamp and wire cage. Set the habitat inside of the wire cage and set the heat lamp on top to keep the worms warm.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Harvesting Your Worms\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Harvest your worms after 3-6 months of feeding.\", \"描述\": \"After you’ve consistently fed the worms every week for 3-6 months, they’ll have had enough time to reproduce and grow. Harvesting the worms involves replacing the soil and creating a new habitat for your excess worms. If you harvest your worms before 3 months have passed, you’ll be removing worms before the infant worms have had time to mature.\\nWorms take roughly 2 months to lay cocoons and hatch infantile worms. The new worms won’t grow to their mature size for at least another month after they’ve hatched.\\nIf you don’t see more worms than you normally do when you go to feed them, the infantile worms are likely not grown yet. Check them again in a month.\\nHarvesting the worms allows you to thin their population out, which will keep them happy and healthy. It will also encourage the worms to continue breeding.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Prepare a second habitat for the expanded population of worms.\", \"描述\": \"If you’re not going fishing with your worms and want to expand your population, you’ll need a second habitat to store your worms. If your worm population has grown, it’s a sign that your habitat was well-made. Create a second habitat that is identical to the first. Add your soil and a layer of compost 6 inches (15 cm) below the surface.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Stop adding food 2 weeks before you want to harvest.\", \"描述\": \"Stop your feeding cycle 2 weeks before you want to harvest your worms. This will encourage the worms to come to the upper layers of the soil, which will make it easier for you to harvest them.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Scoop the top layer of soil into a separate container.\", \"描述\": \"Get a separate container roughly 1/2 the size of the habitat. This should be a plastic or rubber bin with no holes at the bottom. Set it up next to your worm habitat. Turn a bright light on, and gently scoop the soil into the bin with a hand scooper. Continue scooping soil until you’ve filled the rubber or plastic bin with the top half of your soil.\\nScoop up the compost layer along with the soil.\\nWith the light on, your worms will start to burrow into the deeper layers of the soil. You’ll scoop out roughly half of the worms that don’t make it all the way to the bottom half of the soil when you turn the light on.\\nIf your collection is really large, you can use a shovel instead of a scooper.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Remove layers from your new bin in 10-minute increments.\", \"描述\": \"Leave the light on and set your new bin under it for 10 minutes to give the worms time to burrow deeper into the soil. After 10 minutes, use your scooper to remove the top 2–3 inches (5.1–7.6 cm) of your soil. Then, wait another 10 minutes and repeat this process. Continue doing this until almost all of the soil is removed. Discard the excess soil or use it in your yard as fertilizer.\\nDo this outside if you want to minimize the mess that you’re going to make.\\nIt takes the worms quite a bit to move down a few layers, so take your time in between scoops.\\nBe gentler the deeper you go. Throw on some gloves and remove the last 2-3 layers by hand if you don’t want to crush any worms.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Add the worms you removed to their new habitat.\", \"描述\": \"Place some food scraps or manure in the new habitat. Then, carefully pour the worms that you removed into their new home. The worms will feed and get to work building a new bedding layer.\\nPick up and discard any dead worms that you find. It’s natural for a few worms to die as you breed them.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Move the soil in the old habitat to one side.\", \"描述\": \"Put on a pair of gloves. In the bin where you originally held your worms, push the soil to one side of the container. Pile the soil up as best that you can to keep the worms on one side.\\nFeel free to use the scooper if that’s easier for you.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Pour fresh soil into the empty side and add some food.\", \"描述\": \"With roughly half of the bin empty, grab a fresh bag of soil. Pour it into the side of the bin that doesn’t have any soil in it and place some food waste on top of the fresh soil. The worms will naturally start to move towards the fresh soil, since it’s richer in nutrients. The food will encourage the worms to stay on that side of the habitat.\\nKeep feeding the worms on top of the fresh soil. This will ensure that the worms make the fresher side their home.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Replace the old soil after 2-3 weeks.\", \"描述\": \"After your worms have had some time to settle into the new soil, you’ll need to remove the old soil. Use your scooper to gently remove the side with the old soil in it. There shouldn’t be very many worms in there, but if there are, simply put them on top of the soil on the fresh side. Pour fresh soil into the half that you emptied to replenish the habitat.\\nRepeat this process every 3-6 months to keep your collection of worms growing.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"If you notice a lot of worms dying when you first put them in the habitat, the soil is no good. Replace it with an organic soil that is free of additives.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
6,958 |
How to Breed Yorkies
|
1. Deciding Whether to Breed Your Yorkie
1-1. Determine if your Yorkie is old enough to breed.
A female Yorkie should not be used for breeding until she is 2 years old. A male Yorkie will generally have viable sperm when he is over a year old.
1-2. Assess whether your dog has the right physical traits for breeding.
Does your dog have desirable breed traits? Does it meet breed standard minimums? According to the American Kennel Club a Yorkie should exhibit these traits:
The Yorkie's body should be compact and well proportioned.
In addition, a Yorkie's head should be “small and rather flat on top, the skull not too prominent or round, the muzzle not too long, with the bite neither undershot nor overshot and teeth sound. Either scissors bite or level bite is acceptable. The nose is black. Eyes are medium in size and not too prominent; dark in color and sparkling with a sharp, intelligent expression. Eye rims are dark. Ears are small, V-shaped, carried erect and set not too far apart.”
1-3. Assess whether your dog has the right temperament for breeding.
It should appear confident but should be friendly towards people and not fearful. Fearfulness in dogs can be hereditary or a learned trait but you do not want to risk perpetuating a bad hereditary trait.
1-4. Determine whether you have the financial stability to breed your dog.
A dog pregnancy could result in complications, which could cost you a lot of money. Possible complications to consider include an emergency C-section or serious medical conditions occurring in the mother. These can include hypocalcemia, metritis, or mastitis.
Are you prepared to raise any unsold puppies? All the puppies in any given litter do not always sell, so you need to be aware that you may be taking on a lifelong financial responsibility for a new puppy.
1-5. Be realistic about whether you have the time to devote to breeding your dog.
Raising puppies is a full-time job. You will need time for daily handling and socializing the puppies, as only puppies that are socialized to humans make good pets.
The time spent playing and bonding with the puppies is in addition to the time it takes to care for them. Feeding and cleaning after puppies is no small job.
1-6. Contact a breeder to adopt a Yorkie that you can then breed.
If you are looking to adopt a Yorkie you can breed, you should get the name of a well-respected breeder that has a good track record with successful offspring. Good breeders will encourage you to visit them, have good looking and social dogs and puppies, give the dogs plenty of room to roam, will only breed one type of dog, and will interview you about how you will raise the dog they bred.
Contact local Yorkie clubs for a list of local breeders that do not run puppy mills.
If there are no well-established breeders in your area, you may need to travel to get a dog that has all the positive breeding traits you want.
When you are interacting with a well-regarded breeder, pay attention to how the person conducts business and how he or she interacts with the dogs. You can learn a lot just from watching how a professional conducts business.
Make sure to assess all aspects of the breeding process. Use a checklist to make sure you have covered your bases, like the one provided by the Humane Society.
2. Breeding Yorkies
2-1. Understand the reproductive system of the male Yorkie.
The external parts of the male Yorkie's reproductive system are the penis and the scrotum. The scrotum is a pouch that holds the dog's testicles. The sperm, which fertilize the female's egg, are produced in the testes.
Male dogs should ideally have two testes, which move from inside the body down into the scrotum during puberty. A mature male's testes are located outside the abdomen because the internal body temperature is too warm for sperm to grow normally. Because of this, dogs with undescended testes (testicles that do not move down into the scrotum) do not make good candidates to breed, as the problem can be inherited. They should be neutered because undescended testicles can cause health problems later.
2-2. Understand the reproductive system of the female Yorkie.
Most of the female Yorkie's reproductive system is located inside her body. The only visible part is the vulva. Inside, the ovaries produce eggs and the female sex hormones estrogen and progesterone.
After eggs are fertilized by sperm, they attach to the uterine lining and grow into puppies.
2-3. Get a physical veterinary examination of both dogs.
About one month before you breed your Yorkie it should be examined by a veterinarian. The vet should make sure the female is healthy enough to carry a pregnancy to term and that the male is free of diseases and physical problems.
2-4. Watch for signs that the female is physically ready to mate.
Track the female's reproductive cycle so that you know when she will go into heat next. In general, a female dog generally goes into heat twice a year.
The heat cycle starts with a preparatory stage, proestrus, when the vulva swells and a light bloody discharge occurs for 7-9 days. After this stage the bleeding slows down and the dog becomes receptive to breeding. This stage is called estrus or standing heat and is the most fertile time for breeding.
Your veterinarian can determine if your dog is in heat by swabbing the inside of her vagina with a cotton swab. By examining the cells on the swab under a microscope the vet can determine if it is the right time for breeding.
2-5. Place the male and female together.
When the female is physically ready to breed, she will bow to him and back into him. The male will usually reciprocate this interest and mount her for breeding. This process usually occurs naturally, without any outside intervention needed.
2-6. Advertise the puppies before they are born.
You want to have people lined up who are going to adopt the puppies when they are born. The last thing you want is to be stuck with too many dogs.
Advertise your puppies on local list-servs for Yorkie owners or with your local chapter of national dog organizations.
Make a list of potential buyers. Since you won't know exactly how many puppies your dog will have, you need to basically make a waiting list. Let potential buyers know where they fall on the list, so that they know there is a chance they will not get a puppy in this litter.
Tips
Talk to an experienced Yorkie breeder about his or her experiences with breeding. This can help you understand the realities of breeding and help you to determine if you want to take on this big responsibility.
If you decide not to breed your dog you should have it desexed. This will help prevent unwanted puppies in the future and it also lessens the risk of some health problems later in life.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:58:40",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Deciding Whether to Breed Your Yorkie\\n1-1. Determine if your Yorkie is old enough to breed.\\nA female Yorkie should not be used for breeding until she is 2 years old. A male Yorkie will generally have viable sperm when he is over a year old.\\n1-2. Assess whether your dog has the right physical traits for breeding.\\nDoes your dog have desirable breed traits? Does it meet breed standard minimums? According to the American Kennel Club a Yorkie should exhibit these traits:\\nThe Yorkie's body should be compact and well proportioned.\\nIn addition, a Yorkie's head should be “small and rather flat on top, the skull not too prominent or round, the muzzle not too long, with the bite neither undershot nor overshot and teeth sound. Either scissors bite or level bite is acceptable. The nose is black. Eyes are medium in size and not too prominent; dark in color and sparkling with a sharp, intelligent expression. Eye rims are dark. Ears are small, V-shaped, carried erect and set not too far apart.”\\n1-3. Assess whether your dog has the right temperament for breeding.\\nIt should appear confident but should be friendly towards people and not fearful. Fearfulness in dogs can be hereditary or a learned trait but you do not want to risk perpetuating a bad hereditary trait.\\n1-4. Determine whether you have the financial stability to breed your dog.\\nA dog pregnancy could result in complications, which could cost you a lot of money. Possible complications to consider include an emergency C-section or serious medical conditions occurring in the mother. These can include hypocalcemia, metritis, or mastitis.\\nAre you prepared to raise any unsold puppies? All the puppies in any given litter do not always sell, so you need to be aware that you may be taking on a lifelong financial responsibility for a new puppy.\\n1-5. Be realistic about whether you have the time to devote to breeding your dog.\\nRaising puppies is a full-time job. You will need time for daily handling and socializing the puppies, as only puppies that are socialized to humans make good pets.\\nThe time spent playing and bonding with the puppies is in addition to the time it takes to care for them. Feeding and cleaning after puppies is no small job.\\n1-6. Contact a breeder to adopt a Yorkie that you can then breed.\\nIf you are looking to adopt a Yorkie you can breed, you should get the name of a well-respected breeder that has a good track record with successful offspring. Good breeders will encourage you to visit them, have good looking and social dogs and puppies, give the dogs plenty of room to roam, will only breed one type of dog, and will interview you about how you will raise the dog they bred.\\nContact local Yorkie clubs for a list of local breeders that do not run puppy mills.\\nIf there are no well-established breeders in your area, you may need to travel to get a dog that has all the positive breeding traits you want.\\nWhen you are interacting with a well-regarded breeder, pay attention to how the person conducts business and how he or she interacts with the dogs. You can learn a lot just from watching how a professional conducts business.\\nMake sure to assess all aspects of the breeding process. Use a checklist to make sure you have covered your bases, like the one provided by the Humane Society.\\n2. Breeding Yorkies\\n2-1. Understand the reproductive system of the male Yorkie.\\nThe external parts of the male Yorkie's reproductive system are the penis and the scrotum. The scrotum is a pouch that holds the dog's testicles. The sperm, which fertilize the female's egg, are produced in the testes.\\nMale dogs should ideally have two testes, which move from inside the body down into the scrotum during puberty. A mature male's testes are located outside the abdomen because the internal body temperature is too warm for sperm to grow normally. Because of this, dogs with undescended testes (testicles that do not move down into the scrotum) do not make good candidates to breed, as the problem can be inherited. They should be neutered because undescended testicles can cause health problems later.\\n2-2. Understand the reproductive system of the female Yorkie.\\nMost of the female Yorkie's reproductive system is located inside her body. The only visible part is the vulva. Inside, the ovaries produce eggs and the female sex hormones estrogen and progesterone.\\nAfter eggs are fertilized by sperm, they attach to the uterine lining and grow into puppies.\\n2-3. Get a physical veterinary examination of both dogs.\\nAbout one month before you breed your Yorkie it should be examined by a veterinarian. The vet should make sure the female is healthy enough to carry a pregnancy to term and that the male is free of diseases and physical problems.\\n2-4. Watch for signs that the female is physically ready to mate.\\nTrack the female's reproductive cycle so that you know when she will go into heat next. In general, a female dog generally goes into heat twice a year.\\nThe heat cycle starts with a preparatory stage, proestrus, when the vulva swells and a light bloody discharge occurs for 7-9 days. After this stage the bleeding slows down and the dog becomes receptive to breeding. This stage is called estrus or standing heat and is the most fertile time for breeding.\\nYour veterinarian can determine if your dog is in heat by swabbing the inside of her vagina with a cotton swab. By examining the cells on the swab under a microscope the vet can determine if it is the right time for breeding.\\n2-5. Place the male and female together.\\nWhen the female is physically ready to breed, she will bow to him and back into him. The male will usually reciprocate this interest and mount her for breeding. This process usually occurs naturally, without any outside intervention needed.\\n2-6. Advertise the puppies before they are born.\\nYou want to have people lined up who are going to adopt the puppies when they are born. The last thing you want is to be stuck with too many dogs.\\nAdvertise your puppies on local list-servs for Yorkie owners or with your local chapter of national dog organizations.\\nMake a list of potential buyers. Since you won't know exactly how many puppies your dog will have, you need to basically make a waiting list. Let potential buyers know where they fall on the list, so that they know there is a chance they will not get a puppy in this litter.\\nTips\\nTalk to an experienced Yorkie breeder about his or her experiences with breeding. This can help you understand the realities of breeding and help you to determine if you want to take on this big responsibility.\\nIf you decide not to breed your dog you should have it desexed. This will help prevent unwanted puppies in the future and it also lessens the risk of some health problems later in life.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"If you plan to breed your Yorkshire terrier (Yorkie) there are some very important issues to consider long before you mate your dog. You need to evaluate the dog's suitability for breeding, its physical and breed characteristic traits, how the process of reproduction might effect the dog, and the potential pitfalls and complications of having a litter of pups. If you consider all of these issues before breeding your dog, and you still go through with it, your evaluation will prepare you better for the realities of the breeding process.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Deciding Whether to Breed Your Yorkie\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Determine if your Yorkie is old enough to breed.\", \"描述\": \"A female Yorkie should not be used for breeding until she is 2 years old. A male Yorkie will generally have viable sperm when he is over a year old.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Assess whether your dog has the right physical traits for breeding.\", \"描述\": \"Does your dog have desirable breed traits? Does it meet breed standard minimums? According to the American Kennel Club a Yorkie should exhibit these traits:\\nThe Yorkie's body should be compact and well proportioned.\\nIn addition, a Yorkie's head should be “small and rather flat on top, the skull not too prominent or round, the muzzle not too long, with the bite neither undershot nor overshot and teeth sound. Either scissors bite or level bite is acceptable. The nose is black. Eyes are medium in size and not too prominent; dark in color and sparkling with a sharp, intelligent expression. Eye rims are dark. Ears are small, V-shaped, carried erect and set not too far apart.”\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Assess whether your dog has the right temperament for breeding.\", \"描述\": \"It should appear confident but should be friendly towards people and not fearful. Fearfulness in dogs can be hereditary or a learned trait but you do not want to risk perpetuating a bad hereditary trait.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Determine whether you have the financial stability to breed your dog.\", \"描述\": \"A dog pregnancy could result in complications, which could cost you a lot of money. Possible complications to consider include an emergency C-section or serious medical conditions occurring in the mother. These can include hypocalcemia, metritis, or mastitis.\\nAre you prepared to raise any unsold puppies? All the puppies in any given litter do not always sell, so you need to be aware that you may be taking on a lifelong financial responsibility for a new puppy.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Be realistic about whether you have the time to devote to breeding your dog.\", \"描述\": \"Raising puppies is a full-time job. You will need time for daily handling and socializing the puppies, as only puppies that are socialized to humans make good pets.\\nThe time spent playing and bonding with the puppies is in addition to the time it takes to care for them. Feeding and cleaning after puppies is no small job.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Contact a breeder to adopt a Yorkie that you can then breed.\", \"描述\": \"If you are looking to adopt a Yorkie you can breed, you should get the name of a well-respected breeder that has a good track record with successful offspring. Good breeders will encourage you to visit them, have good looking and social dogs and puppies, give the dogs plenty of room to roam, will only breed one type of dog, and will interview you about how you will raise the dog they bred.\\nContact local Yorkie clubs for a list of local breeders that do not run puppy mills.\\nIf there are no well-established breeders in your area, you may need to travel to get a dog that has all the positive breeding traits you want.\\nWhen you are interacting with a well-regarded breeder, pay attention to how the person conducts business and how he or she interacts with the dogs. You can learn a lot just from watching how a professional conducts business.\\nMake sure to assess all aspects of the breeding process. Use a checklist to make sure you have covered your bases, like the one provided by the Humane Society.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Breeding Yorkies\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Understand the reproductive system of the male Yorkie.\", \"描述\": \"The external parts of the male Yorkie's reproductive system are the penis and the scrotum. The scrotum is a pouch that holds the dog's testicles. The sperm, which fertilize the female's egg, are produced in the testes.\\nMale dogs should ideally have two testes, which move from inside the body down into the scrotum during puberty. A mature male's testes are located outside the abdomen because the internal body temperature is too warm for sperm to grow normally. Because of this, dogs with undescended testes (testicles that do not move down into the scrotum) do not make good candidates to breed, as the problem can be inherited. They should be neutered because undescended testicles can cause health problems later.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Understand the reproductive system of the female Yorkie.\", \"描述\": \"Most of the female Yorkie's reproductive system is located inside her body. The only visible part is the vulva. Inside, the ovaries produce eggs and the female sex hormones estrogen and progesterone.\\nAfter eggs are fertilized by sperm, they attach to the uterine lining and grow into puppies.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Get a physical veterinary examination of both dogs.\", \"描述\": \"About one month before you breed your Yorkie it should be examined by a veterinarian. The vet should make sure the female is healthy enough to carry a pregnancy to term and that the male is free of diseases and physical problems.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Watch for signs that the female is physically ready to mate.\", \"描述\": \"Track the female's reproductive cycle so that you know when she will go into heat next. In general, a female dog generally goes into heat twice a year.\\nThe heat cycle starts with a preparatory stage, proestrus, when the vulva swells and a light bloody discharge occurs for 7-9 days. After this stage the bleeding slows down and the dog becomes receptive to breeding. This stage is called estrus or standing heat and is the most fertile time for breeding.\\nYour veterinarian can determine if your dog is in heat by swabbing the inside of her vagina with a cotton swab. By examining the cells on the swab under a microscope the vet can determine if it is the right time for breeding.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Place the male and female together.\", \"描述\": \"When the female is physically ready to breed, she will bow to him and back into him. The male will usually reciprocate this interest and mount her for breeding. This process usually occurs naturally, without any outside intervention needed.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Advertise the puppies before they are born.\", \"描述\": \"You want to have people lined up who are going to adopt the puppies when they are born. The last thing you want is to be stuck with too many dogs.\\nAdvertise your puppies on local list-servs for Yorkie owners or with your local chapter of national dog organizations.\\nMake a list of potential buyers. Since you won't know exactly how many puppies your dog will have, you need to basically make a waiting list. Let potential buyers know where they fall on the list, so that they know there is a chance they will not get a puppy in this litter.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Talk to an experienced Yorkie breeder about his or her experiences with breeding. This can help you understand the realities of breeding and help you to determine if you want to take on this big responsibility.\\n\", \"If you decide not to breed your dog you should have it desexed. This will help prevent unwanted puppies in the future and it also lessens the risk of some health problems later in life.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
6,959 |
How to Breed a Bowgart on My Singing Monsters
|
1. Steps
1-1. Verify that you're at level nine or higher in My Singing Monsters.
The Bowgart can only be bred at level nine or higher. Your current level status is displayed at the top left corner of your screen.
To advance to level nine, tap on “Goals” and complete the list of required goals. The game will bump you to level nine after you've completed required goals, such as buying breeding structures and feeding your existing monsters.
1-2. Tap on the breeding structure you purchased at level seven, then tap on “Breed.
1-3. Select a monster from each column to create a pairing that adds up equally to the Plant, Cold, and Water elements.
The monster pairing proven most successful at breeding the Bowgart is the Potbelly + Maw combination; however, Toe Jammer + Furcorn, and Mammott + Oaktopus are also successful pairings that can breed the Bowgart.
1-4. Tap on “Breed” at the bottom of the screen after choosing your monsters.
The breeding structure will begin flashing to indicate that your monsters are now breeding. The breeding period for the Bowgart lasts 12 hours. After the breeding period has ended, the Bowgart egg will be relocated to the Nursery and ready to hatch.
To avoid having to wait for the breeding period to end, accept the offer to pay 12 diamonds immediately after tapping on “Breed.” You will then have the option to sell the Bowgart, or place it on an island.
1-5. Log back into My Singing Monsters after the breeding period has ended.
The Bowgart egg will now be waiting for you at the Nursery.
If your breeding attempt was unsuccessful, return to the breeding structure, tap on “Retry,” and select either the same monsters you used previously, or try a different monster pairing. In some cases, you may need to try breeding the Bowgart one or more times using different monster combinations as outlined in step #3.
1-6. Tap on the Nursery.
You will receive a notification informing you that the Bowgart egg has hatched. You can now sell the Bowgart monster, or select the option to place the Bowgart at the Plant Island, Cold Island, or Gold Island.
Tips
Purchase the Bowgart for 50 diamonds from the Market if you don't want to breed monsters or wait 12 hours for the breeding period to end. Tap on “Market,” tap on “Monsters,” tap on “Bowgart,” then tap on “Buy” to purchase the monster for 50 diamonds.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:58:40",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Verify that you're at level nine or higher in My Singing Monsters.\\nThe Bowgart can only be bred at level nine or higher. Your current level status is displayed at the top left corner of your screen.\\nTo advance to level nine, tap on “Goals” and complete the list of required goals. The game will bump you to level nine after you've completed required goals, such as buying breeding structures and feeding your existing monsters.\\n1-2. Tap on the breeding structure you purchased at level seven, then tap on “Breed.\\n\\n1-3. Select a monster from each column to create a pairing that adds up equally to the Plant, Cold, and Water elements.\\nThe monster pairing proven most successful at breeding the Bowgart is the Potbelly + Maw combination; however, Toe Jammer + Furcorn, and Mammott + Oaktopus are also successful pairings that can breed the Bowgart.\\n1-4. Tap on “Breed” at the bottom of the screen after choosing your monsters.\\nThe breeding structure will begin flashing to indicate that your monsters are now breeding. The breeding period for the Bowgart lasts 12 hours. After the breeding period has ended, the Bowgart egg will be relocated to the Nursery and ready to hatch.\\nTo avoid having to wait for the breeding period to end, accept the offer to pay 12 diamonds immediately after tapping on “Breed.” You will then have the option to sell the Bowgart, or place it on an island.\\n1-5. Log back into My Singing Monsters after the breeding period has ended.\\nThe Bowgart egg will now be waiting for you at the Nursery.\\nIf your breeding attempt was unsuccessful, return to the breeding structure, tap on “Retry,” and select either the same monsters you used previously, or try a different monster pairing. In some cases, you may need to try breeding the Bowgart one or more times using different monster combinations as outlined in step #3.\\n1-6. Tap on the Nursery.\\nYou will receive a notification informing you that the Bowgart egg has hatched. You can now sell the Bowgart monster, or select the option to place the Bowgart at the Plant Island, Cold Island, or Gold Island.\\nTips\\nPurchase the Bowgart for 50 diamonds from the Market if you don't want to breed monsters or wait 12 hours for the breeding period to end. Tap on “Market,” tap on “Monsters,” tap on “Bowgart,” then tap on “Buy” to purchase the monster for 50 diamonds.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"The Bowgart is a blue, four-armed, human-like monster that features two horns and plays a string instrument resembling a cello. The Bowgart is available starting at level nine in My Singing Monsters, and can be bred by pairing two monsters that contain elements that add up to equal parts Plant, Cold, and Water.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Verify that you're at level nine or higher in My Singing Monsters.\", \"描述\": \"The Bowgart can only be bred at level nine or higher. Your current level status is displayed at the top left corner of your screen.\\nTo advance to level nine, tap on “Goals” and complete the list of required goals. The game will bump you to level nine after you've completed required goals, such as buying breeding structures and feeding your existing monsters.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Tap on the breeding structure you purchased at level seven, then tap on “Breed.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Select a monster from each column to create a pairing that adds up equally to the Plant, Cold, and Water elements.\", \"描述\": \"The monster pairing proven most successful at breeding the Bowgart is the Potbelly + Maw combination; however, Toe Jammer + Furcorn, and Mammott + Oaktopus are also successful pairings that can breed the Bowgart.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Tap on “Breed” at the bottom of the screen after choosing your monsters.\", \"描述\": \"The breeding structure will begin flashing to indicate that your monsters are now breeding. The breeding period for the Bowgart lasts 12 hours. After the breeding period has ended, the Bowgart egg will be relocated to the Nursery and ready to hatch.\\nTo avoid having to wait for the breeding period to end, accept the offer to pay 12 diamonds immediately after tapping on “Breed.” You will then have the option to sell the Bowgart, or place it on an island.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Log back into My Singing Monsters after the breeding period has ended.\", \"描述\": \"The Bowgart egg will now be waiting for you at the Nursery.\\nIf your breeding attempt was unsuccessful, return to the breeding structure, tap on “Retry,” and select either the same monsters you used previously, or try a different monster pairing. In some cases, you may need to try breeding the Bowgart one or more times using different monster combinations as outlined in step #3.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Tap on the Nursery.\", \"描述\": \"You will receive a notification informing you that the Bowgart egg has hatched. You can now sell the Bowgart monster, or select the option to place the Bowgart at the Plant Island, Cold Island, or Gold Island.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Purchase the Bowgart for 50 diamonds from the Market if you don't want to breed monsters or wait 12 hours for the breeding period to end. Tap on “Market,” tap on “Monsters,” tap on “Bowgart,” then tap on “Buy” to purchase the monster for 50 diamonds.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
6,960 |
How to Breed a Deedge in My Singing Monsters
|
1. Get to level 9 or higher first.
The Deedge can only be bred when you’ve reached level nine.
Your current level status is displayed at the top left corner of the My Singing Monsters Home screen.
To start advancing toward level nine, tap on “Goals” and complete the list of required goals, such as feeding your monsters or buying breeding structures for islands.
2. Make sure there's a breeding structure on Cold or Shugabush Island.
The Deedge can only be bred on one of these two islands.
If you haven’t yet placed breeding structures on one or both of these islands, tap on “Market,” tap on “Structures,” purchase a breeding structure for 200 gold coins, then place the structure on either Cold Island or Shugabush Island.
3. Tap the breeding structure and choose "Breed."
You can tap the structure on Cold Island or Shugabush island.
Once you select it, tap .
4. Select a monster from each column.
Choose monsters to create a pairing that makes up equal parts of the Air, Plant, Water, and Cold elements.
You can either breed two two-element monsters with one another, or breed a one-element monster with a three-element monster. Examples of monster pairings that can successfully breed the Deedge are Dandidoo + Maw, Quibble + Furcorn, Pango + Oaktopus, Spunge + Mammott, Thumpies + Toe Jammer, Congle + Potbelly, and Bowgart + Tweedle.
Pair the Bowgart with the Tweedle for the best chance of breeding the Deedge. This monster pairing has been shown to have a 39 percent success rate of creating the Deedge.
5. Tap "Breed" after choosing your monsters.
The breeding structure will start flashing to indicate that your monsters are breeding.
The breeding period for the Deedge lasts 24 hours. After the breeding period ends, the Deedge egg will automatically be placed at the Nursery and ready to hatch.
To avoid waiting for the Deedge’s breeding period to end, accept the offer to pay 12 diamonds after tapping on “Breed.”
6. Come back when the breeding period has ended.
After 24 hours, sign back in to My Singing Monsters.
The Deedge egg will now be waiting for you at the Nursery.
If your initial breeding attempt was unsuccessful, return to the breeding structure, tap on “Retry,” and either select the same monsters you used previously, or try a different monster pairing. You may need to attempt breeding the Deedge one or more times until breeding is successful.
7. Tap the Nursery.
You’ll receive a notification informing you that the Deedge egg has hatched.
You can now sell the Deedge, or select the option to place the Deedge on Cold Island, Gold Island, or Shugabush Island.
Tips
Purchase the Deedge directly from the Market if you don’t want to breed this monster or wait for the 12-hour breeding period to end. After you reach level nine, tap on “Market,” tap on “Monsters,” tap on “Deedge,” then tap on “Buy.” The cost to buy the Deedge for Cold Island is 150 diamonds; the cost to buy the Deedge for Shugabush Island is 700 diamonds.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:58:41",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Get to level 9 or higher first.\\nThe Deedge can only be bred when you’ve reached level nine.\\nYour current level status is displayed at the top left corner of the My Singing Monsters Home screen.\\nTo start advancing toward level nine, tap on “Goals” and complete the list of required goals, such as feeding your monsters or buying breeding structures for islands.\\n2. Make sure there's a breeding structure on Cold or Shugabush Island.\\nThe Deedge can only be bred on one of these two islands.\\nIf you haven’t yet placed breeding structures on one or both of these islands, tap on “Market,” tap on “Structures,” purchase a breeding structure for 200 gold coins, then place the structure on either Cold Island or Shugabush Island.\\n3. Tap the breeding structure and choose \\\"Breed.\\\"\\nYou can tap the structure on Cold Island or Shugabush island.\\nOnce you select it, tap .\\n4. Select a monster from each column.\\nChoose monsters to create a pairing that makes up equal parts of the Air, Plant, Water, and Cold elements.\\nYou can either breed two two-element monsters with one another, or breed a one-element monster with a three-element monster. Examples of monster pairings that can successfully breed the Deedge are Dandidoo + Maw, Quibble + Furcorn, Pango + Oaktopus, Spunge + Mammott, Thumpies + Toe Jammer, Congle + Potbelly, and Bowgart + Tweedle.\\nPair the Bowgart with the Tweedle for the best chance of breeding the Deedge. This monster pairing has been shown to have a 39 percent success rate of creating the Deedge.\\n5. Tap \\\"Breed\\\" after choosing your monsters.\\nThe breeding structure will start flashing to indicate that your monsters are breeding.\\nThe breeding period for the Deedge lasts 24 hours. After the breeding period ends, the Deedge egg will automatically be placed at the Nursery and ready to hatch.\\nTo avoid waiting for the Deedge’s breeding period to end, accept the offer to pay 12 diamonds after tapping on “Breed.”\\n6. Come back when the breeding period has ended.\\nAfter 24 hours, sign back in to My Singing Monsters.\\nThe Deedge egg will now be waiting for you at the Nursery.\\nIf your initial breeding attempt was unsuccessful, return to the breeding structure, tap on “Retry,” and either select the same monsters you used previously, or try a different monster pairing. You may need to attempt breeding the Deedge one or more times until breeding is successful.\\n7. Tap the Nursery.\\nYou’ll receive a notification informing you that the Deedge egg has hatched.\\nYou can now sell the Deedge, or select the option to place the Deedge on Cold Island, Gold Island, or Shugabush Island.\\nTips\\nPurchase the Deedge directly from the Market if you don’t want to breed this monster or wait for the 12-hour breeding period to end. After you reach level nine, tap on “Market,” tap on “Monsters,” tap on “Deedge,” then tap on “Buy.” The cost to buy the Deedge for Cold Island is 150 diamonds; the cost to buy the Deedge for Shugabush Island is 700 diamonds.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"The Deedge is a blue, furry monster with a speaker affixed to the center of its head that uses ice blocks as a sound board in the fashion of a DJ. The Deedge becomes available at level nine in My Singing Monsters, and can be bred using monster pairings containing elements that equate to equal parts Air, Plant, Water, and Cold.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Get to level 9 or higher first.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"The Deedge can only be bred when you’ve reached level nine.\", \"描述\": \"Your current level status is displayed at the top left corner of the My Singing Monsters Home screen.\\nTo start advancing toward level nine, tap on “Goals” and complete the list of required goals, such as feeding your monsters or buying breeding structures for islands.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Make sure there's a breeding structure on Cold or Shugabush Island.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"The Deedge can only be bred on one of these two islands.\", \"描述\": \"If you haven’t yet placed breeding structures on one or both of these islands, tap on “Market,” tap on “Structures,” purchase a breeding structure for 200 gold coins, then place the structure on either Cold Island or Shugabush Island.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Tap the breeding structure and choose \\\"Breed.\\\"\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"You can tap the structure on Cold Island or Shugabush island.\", \"描述\": \"Once you select it, tap .\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Select a monster from each column.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Choose monsters to create a pairing that makes up equal parts of the Air, Plant, Water, and Cold elements.\", \"描述\": \"You can either breed two two-element monsters with one another, or breed a one-element monster with a three-element monster. Examples of monster pairings that can successfully breed the Deedge are Dandidoo + Maw, Quibble + Furcorn, Pango + Oaktopus, Spunge + Mammott, Thumpies + Toe Jammer, Congle + Potbelly, and Bowgart + Tweedle.\\nPair the Bowgart with the Tweedle for the best chance of breeding the Deedge. This monster pairing has been shown to have a 39 percent success rate of creating the Deedge.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Tap \\\"Breed\\\" after choosing your monsters.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"The breeding structure will start flashing to indicate that your monsters are breeding.\", \"描述\": \"The breeding period for the Deedge lasts 24 hours. After the breeding period ends, the Deedge egg will automatically be placed at the Nursery and ready to hatch.\\nTo avoid waiting for the Deedge’s breeding period to end, accept the offer to pay 12 diamonds after tapping on “Breed.”\"}]}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Come back when the breeding period has ended.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"After 24 hours, sign back in to My Singing Monsters.\", \"描述\": \"The Deedge egg will now be waiting for you at the Nursery.\\nIf your initial breeding attempt was unsuccessful, return to the breeding structure, tap on “Retry,” and either select the same monsters you used previously, or try a different monster pairing. You may need to attempt breeding the Deedge one or more times until breeding is successful.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Tap the Nursery.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"You’ll receive a notification informing you that the Deedge egg has hatched.\", \"描述\": \"You can now sell the Deedge, or select the option to place the Deedge on Cold Island, Gold Island, or Shugabush Island.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Purchase the Deedge directly from the Market if you don’t want to breed this monster or wait for the 12-hour breeding period to end. After you reach level nine, tap on “Market,” tap on “Monsters,” tap on “Deedge,” then tap on “Buy.” The cost to buy the Deedge for Cold Island is 150 diamonds; the cost to buy the Deedge for Shugabush Island is 700 diamonds.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
6,961 |
How to Breed a Diamond Dragon in Dragon Story
|
1. Steps
1-1. Confirm you’ve reached level 10 in Dragon Story.
Your level status is displayed in the star at the top left corner of the Dragon Story Home screen.
Tap the “Goals” book and complete the required in-game tasks to advance to level 10 if you’re not at this level.
1-2. Tap on the Breeding Den.
1-3. Choose a dragon from each column that makes up at least four different dragon types.
These distinct dragon types include: Black, White, Red, Blue, Yellow, Pink, Purple, Green, Royal, Rainbow, Fairytale, Mythic, Cosmic, Olympus, Zodiac, Gemstone, Metal, Stone, Tropic, Dino, Egypt, Champion, and Soccer. For example, try breeding an Aurora Dragon (Green, Purple, and Blue) with a Yellow Dragon.
Breed an Island Dragon (Green and Blue) with a Firestorm Dragon (Red and Yellow) for the best results. This dragon pairing has been confirmed a valid working combination for the Diamond Dragon.
Try these other breeding pairings that have success rates of 44 percent and 15 percent, respectively: Aurora + Mirage, Atlantis + Eagle.
1-4. Tap “Breed.
Your dragon pairing will breed and the Diamond egg will begin its incubation period. The Diamond Dragon egg is pale yellow in color, and features a pale turquoise diamond atop blue ocean waves.
Repeat steps #2 through #4 as many times as needed until you breed a Diamond Dragon egg. This dragon is classified as ultra rare, and may require multiple breeding attempts.
1-5. Wait for the Diamond Dragon to hatch.
Hatching time for this dragon is 44 hours.
1-6. Log back into Dragon Story after 44 hours.
The Diamond Dragon will now be hatched.
1-7. Relocate the Diamond Dragon to its natural habitat at Diamond Fields.
Tips
Considering buying the Diamond Dragon from the Market for 2,000 gold pieces. Considering its ultra rare status, this helps save time spent attempting to breed the dragon using various dragon pairings.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:58:41",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Confirm you’ve reached level 10 in Dragon Story.\\nYour level status is displayed in the star at the top left corner of the Dragon Story Home screen.\\nTap the “Goals” book and complete the required in-game tasks to advance to level 10 if you’re not at this level.\\n1-2. Tap on the Breeding Den.\\n\\n1-3. Choose a dragon from each column that makes up at least four different dragon types.\\nThese distinct dragon types include: Black, White, Red, Blue, Yellow, Pink, Purple, Green, Royal, Rainbow, Fairytale, Mythic, Cosmic, Olympus, Zodiac, Gemstone, Metal, Stone, Tropic, Dino, Egypt, Champion, and Soccer. For example, try breeding an Aurora Dragon (Green, Purple, and Blue) with a Yellow Dragon.\\nBreed an Island Dragon (Green and Blue) with a Firestorm Dragon (Red and Yellow) for the best results. This dragon pairing has been confirmed a valid working combination for the Diamond Dragon.\\nTry these other breeding pairings that have success rates of 44 percent and 15 percent, respectively: Aurora + Mirage, Atlantis + Eagle.\\n1-4. Tap “Breed.\\nYour dragon pairing will breed and the Diamond egg will begin its incubation period. The Diamond Dragon egg is pale yellow in color, and features a pale turquoise diamond atop blue ocean waves.\\nRepeat steps #2 through #4 as many times as needed until you breed a Diamond Dragon egg. This dragon is classified as ultra rare, and may require multiple breeding attempts.\\n1-5. Wait for the Diamond Dragon to hatch.\\nHatching time for this dragon is 44 hours.\\n1-6. Log back into Dragon Story after 44 hours.\\nThe Diamond Dragon will now be hatched.\\n1-7. Relocate the Diamond Dragon to its natural habitat at Diamond Fields.\\n\\nTips\\nConsidering buying the Diamond Dragon from the Market for 2,000 gold pieces. Considering its ultra rare status, this helps save time spent attempting to breed the dragon using various dragon pairings.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"The Diamond Dragon is an ultra rare dragon available at level 10 in Dragon Story. The Diamond Dragon is bred using two dragons that collectively make up at least four different types, and may require several breeding attempts.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Confirm you’ve reached level 10 in Dragon Story.\", \"描述\": \"Your level status is displayed in the star at the top left corner of the Dragon Story Home screen.\\nTap the “Goals” book and complete the required in-game tasks to advance to level 10 if you’re not at this level.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Tap on the Breeding Den.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Choose a dragon from each column that makes up at least four different dragon types.\", \"描述\": \"These distinct dragon types include: Black, White, Red, Blue, Yellow, Pink, Purple, Green, Royal, Rainbow, Fairytale, Mythic, Cosmic, Olympus, Zodiac, Gemstone, Metal, Stone, Tropic, Dino, Egypt, Champion, and Soccer. For example, try breeding an Aurora Dragon (Green, Purple, and Blue) with a Yellow Dragon.\\nBreed an Island Dragon (Green and Blue) with a Firestorm Dragon (Red and Yellow) for the best results. This dragon pairing has been confirmed a valid working combination for the Diamond Dragon.\\nTry these other breeding pairings that have success rates of 44 percent and 15 percent, respectively: Aurora + Mirage, Atlantis + Eagle.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Tap “Breed.\", \"描述\": \"Your dragon pairing will breed and the Diamond egg will begin its incubation period. The Diamond Dragon egg is pale yellow in color, and features a pale turquoise diamond atop blue ocean waves.\\nRepeat steps #2 through #4 as many times as needed until you breed a Diamond Dragon egg. This dragon is classified as ultra rare, and may require multiple breeding attempts.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Wait for the Diamond Dragon to hatch.\", \"描述\": \"Hatching time for this dragon is 44 hours.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Log back into Dragon Story after 44 hours.\", \"描述\": \"The Diamond Dragon will now be hatched.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Relocate the Diamond Dragon to its natural habitat at Diamond Fields.\", \"描述\": \"\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Considering buying the Diamond Dragon from the Market for 2,000 gold pieces. Considering its ultra rare status, this helps save time spent attempting to breed the dragon using various dragon pairings.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
6,962 |
How to Breed a Gold Dragon in DragonVale
|
1. Steps
1-1. Go to your breeding cave or the epic breeding island.
1-2. Pair two basic dragons.
Pair a metal dragon with a fire dragon, both above level 7. You can also use many combinations of hybrids which contain the elements of both fire and metal. A list of possible combinations is provided just below.
You will need to be at level 17 in the game if using a metal dragon.
The metal and fire dragon combination seems to work best in the epic breeding island.
1-3. Wait for 48 hours.
This is the required breeding time.
Breeding time can be hastened by spending gems.
1-4. If successful, you'll get a completely golden egg.
Place the egg in the dragon nursery to incubate. Wait another 48 hours for it to hatch.
1-5. Place the gold dragon in a treasure habitat.
To help it grow, feed it the same food as all baby dragons.
2. Possible dragon combinations
Tips
The result of breeding for a gold dragon may also be other types of dragons, such as a fireworks, rainbow or ruby dragon.
This dragon earns 30 gold coins at level one and 194 gold coins at level 10, per minute.
If you want the gold dragon, you better build some epic, special or other habitats first.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:58:41",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Go to your breeding cave or the epic breeding island.\\n\\n1-2. Pair two basic dragons.\\nPair a metal dragon with a fire dragon, both above level 7. You can also use many combinations of hybrids which contain the elements of both fire and metal. A list of possible combinations is provided just below.\\nYou will need to be at level 17 in the game if using a metal dragon.\\nThe metal and fire dragon combination seems to work best in the epic breeding island.\\n1-3. Wait for 48 hours.\\nThis is the required breeding time.\\nBreeding time can be hastened by spending gems.\\n1-4. If successful, you'll get a completely golden egg.\\nPlace the egg in the dragon nursery to incubate. Wait another 48 hours for it to hatch.\\n1-5. Place the gold dragon in a treasure habitat.\\nTo help it grow, feed it the same food as all baby dragons.\\n2. Possible dragon combinations\\nTips\\nThe result of breeding for a gold dragon may also be other types of dragons, such as a fireworks, rainbow or ruby dragon.\\nThis dragon earns 30 gold coins at level one and 194 gold coins at level 10, per minute.\\nIf you want the gold dragon, you better build some epic, special or other habitats first.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"A \\\"treasure element\\\" in the game DragonVale, the gold dragon is colored mostly gold with some red features. It's a highly sought after dragon to include in your park.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Go to your breeding cave or the epic breeding island.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Pair two basic dragons.\", \"描述\": \"Pair a metal dragon with a fire dragon, both above level 7. You can also use many combinations of hybrids which contain the elements of both fire and metal. A list of possible combinations is provided just below.\\nYou will need to be at level 17 in the game if using a metal dragon.\\nThe metal and fire dragon combination seems to work best in the epic breeding island.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Wait for 48 hours.\", \"描述\": \"This is the required breeding time.\\nBreeding time can be hastened by spending gems.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"If successful, you'll get a completely golden egg.\", \"描述\": \"Place the egg in the dragon nursery to incubate. Wait another 48 hours for it to hatch.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Place the gold dragon in a treasure habitat.\", \"描述\": \"To help it grow, feed it the same food as all baby dragons.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Possible dragon combinations\", \"步骤\": [], \"小提示\": [\"The result of breeding for a gold dragon may also be other types of dragons, such as a fireworks, rainbow or ruby dragon.\\n\", \"This dragon earns 30 gold coins at level one and 194 gold coins at level 10, per minute.\\n\", \"If you want the gold dragon, you better build some epic, special or other habitats first.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
6,963 |
How to Breed a Grumpyre in My Singing Monsters
|
1. Steps
1-1. Verify you’re at level nine or higher in My Singing Monsters.
The Grumpyre can only be bred once you’ve reached level nine. Your current level status is displayed at the top left corner of your screen.
To start advancing toward level nine, tap on “Goals” and complete the list of required goals.
1-2. Verify that a breeding structure exists on Ethereal Island.
The Grumpyre is considered an Ethereal creature, and can only be bred on Ethereal Island and Cold Island.
If you haven’t placed a breeding structure on Ethereal Island, tap on “Market,” tap on “Structures,” then select the option to purchase a breeding structure for 200 gold coins or 10 shards.
1-3. Tap on the breeding structure located on Ethereal Island, then tap on “Breed.
1-4. Select a four-element monster from one column, and a three-element monster from the other column.
At this stage of the game, your four-element monster will be the Deedge. Examples of three-element monsters you can choose are the Congle, the Bowgart, the Spunge, and the Thumpies. For the best chance of creating the Grumpyre, pair the Deedge with the Congle.
Breed the Deedge by pairing monsters that provide equal parts of the elements Air, Plant, Water, and Cold. Examples of successful monster pairings that can breed the Deedge are Spunge + Mammott, Thumpies + Toe Jammer, and Congle + Potbelly.
Breed the Congle by pairing monsters that provide equal parts of the elements Air, Water, and Cold. Examples of successful monster pairings that can breed the Congle are Tweedle + Maw, Toe Jammer + Pango, and Mammott + Quibble.
1-5. Tap on “Breed” at the bottom of the screen after selecting your monsters.
The breeding structure will start flashing to indicate that your monsters are now breeding. The breeding period for the Grumpyre lasts 36 hours. After the breeding period ends, the Grumpyre egg will automatically be relocated to the Nursery and ready to hatch.
To avoid waiting for the breeding period to end, accept the offer to pay 36 diamonds after tapping on “Breed.” You can then sell the Grumpyre, or place it on its island.
1-6. Log back into My Singing Monsters after the breeding period ends.
The Grumpyre egg will now be waiting for you at the Nursery.
If your breeding attempt was unsuccessful, return to the breeding structure, tap on “Retry,” and either select the same monsters you used previously, or try a different monster pairing. According to gaming statistics for My Singing Monsters, you may need to execute about 70 attempts for a 50 percent chance of breeding one Grumpyre, and about 690 attempts for a 99.9 percent chance of breeding one Grumpyre.
1-7. Tap on the Nursery.
You’ll receive a notification informing you that the Grumpyre egg has hatched. You can now sell the Grumpyre, or select the option to place the Grumpyre on Cold Island or Ethereal Island.
Tips
Buy the Grumpyre for 1,000 diamonds from the Market if you don’t want to breed this monster or wait for the 36-hour breeding period to end. After you reach level nine, tap on “Market,” tap on “Monsters,” tap on “Grumpyre,” then tap on “Buy” to purchase the Grumpyre for 1,000 diamonds.
Warnings
Can induce rage when not working
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:58:41",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Verify you’re at level nine or higher in My Singing Monsters.\\nThe Grumpyre can only be bred once you’ve reached level nine. Your current level status is displayed at the top left corner of your screen.\\nTo start advancing toward level nine, tap on “Goals” and complete the list of required goals.\\n1-2. Verify that a breeding structure exists on Ethereal Island.\\nThe Grumpyre is considered an Ethereal creature, and can only be bred on Ethereal Island and Cold Island.\\nIf you haven’t placed a breeding structure on Ethereal Island, tap on “Market,” tap on “Structures,” then select the option to purchase a breeding structure for 200 gold coins or 10 shards.\\n1-3. Tap on the breeding structure located on Ethereal Island, then tap on “Breed.\\n\\n1-4. Select a four-element monster from one column, and a three-element monster from the other column.\\nAt this stage of the game, your four-element monster will be the Deedge. Examples of three-element monsters you can choose are the Congle, the Bowgart, the Spunge, and the Thumpies. For the best chance of creating the Grumpyre, pair the Deedge with the Congle. \\nBreed the Deedge by pairing monsters that provide equal parts of the elements Air, Plant, Water, and Cold. Examples of successful monster pairings that can breed the Deedge are Spunge + Mammott, Thumpies + Toe Jammer, and Congle + Potbelly.\\nBreed the Congle by pairing monsters that provide equal parts of the elements Air, Water, and Cold. Examples of successful monster pairings that can breed the Congle are Tweedle + Maw, Toe Jammer + Pango, and Mammott + Quibble.\\n1-5. Tap on “Breed” at the bottom of the screen after selecting your monsters.\\nThe breeding structure will start flashing to indicate that your monsters are now breeding. The breeding period for the Grumpyre lasts 36 hours. After the breeding period ends, the Grumpyre egg will automatically be relocated to the Nursery and ready to hatch.\\nTo avoid waiting for the breeding period to end, accept the offer to pay 36 diamonds after tapping on “Breed.” You can then sell the Grumpyre, or place it on its island.\\n1-6. Log back into My Singing Monsters after the breeding period ends.\\nThe Grumpyre egg will now be waiting for you at the Nursery.\\nIf your breeding attempt was unsuccessful, return to the breeding structure, tap on “Retry,” and either select the same monsters you used previously, or try a different monster pairing. According to gaming statistics for My Singing Monsters, you may need to execute about 70 attempts for a 50 percent chance of breeding one Grumpyre, and about 690 attempts for a 99.9 percent chance of breeding one Grumpyre.\\n1-7. Tap on the Nursery.\\nYou’ll receive a notification informing you that the Grumpyre egg has hatched. You can now sell the Grumpyre, or select the option to place the Grumpyre on Cold Island or Ethereal Island.\\nTips\\nBuy the Grumpyre for 1,000 diamonds from the Market if you don’t want to breed this monster or wait for the 36-hour breeding period to end. After you reach level nine, tap on “Market,” tap on “Monsters,” tap on “Grumpyre,” then tap on “Buy” to purchase the Grumpyre for 1,000 diamonds.\\nWarnings\\nCan induce rage when not working\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"The Grumpyre is an extremely rare Ethereal monster in My Singing Monsters that becomes available at level nine. Players face only a one percent chance of creating this grey, four-winged, two-armed bat monster, which can be bred by pairing a four-element monster such as the Deedge, with any triple-element monster, such as the Congle, Bowgart, or Spunge.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Verify you’re at level nine or higher in My Singing Monsters.\", \"描述\": \"The Grumpyre can only be bred once you’ve reached level nine. Your current level status is displayed at the top left corner of your screen.\\nTo start advancing toward level nine, tap on “Goals” and complete the list of required goals.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Verify that a breeding structure exists on Ethereal Island.\", \"描述\": \"The Grumpyre is considered an Ethereal creature, and can only be bred on Ethereal Island and Cold Island.\\nIf you haven’t placed a breeding structure on Ethereal Island, tap on “Market,” tap on “Structures,” then select the option to purchase a breeding structure for 200 gold coins or 10 shards.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Tap on the breeding structure located on Ethereal Island, then tap on “Breed.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Select a four-element monster from one column, and a three-element monster from the other column.\", \"描述\": \"At this stage of the game, your four-element monster will be the Deedge. Examples of three-element monsters you can choose are the Congle, the Bowgart, the Spunge, and the Thumpies. For the best chance of creating the Grumpyre, pair the Deedge with the Congle. \\nBreed the Deedge by pairing monsters that provide equal parts of the elements Air, Plant, Water, and Cold. Examples of successful monster pairings that can breed the Deedge are Spunge + Mammott, Thumpies + Toe Jammer, and Congle + Potbelly.\\nBreed the Congle by pairing monsters that provide equal parts of the elements Air, Water, and Cold. Examples of successful monster pairings that can breed the Congle are Tweedle + Maw, Toe Jammer + Pango, and Mammott + Quibble.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Tap on “Breed” at the bottom of the screen after selecting your monsters.\", \"描述\": \"The breeding structure will start flashing to indicate that your monsters are now breeding. The breeding period for the Grumpyre lasts 36 hours. After the breeding period ends, the Grumpyre egg will automatically be relocated to the Nursery and ready to hatch.\\nTo avoid waiting for the breeding period to end, accept the offer to pay 36 diamonds after tapping on “Breed.” You can then sell the Grumpyre, or place it on its island.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Log back into My Singing Monsters after the breeding period ends.\", \"描述\": \"The Grumpyre egg will now be waiting for you at the Nursery.\\nIf your breeding attempt was unsuccessful, return to the breeding structure, tap on “Retry,” and either select the same monsters you used previously, or try a different monster pairing. According to gaming statistics for My Singing Monsters, you may need to execute about 70 attempts for a 50 percent chance of breeding one Grumpyre, and about 690 attempts for a 99.9 percent chance of breeding one Grumpyre.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Tap on the Nursery.\", \"描述\": \"You’ll receive a notification informing you that the Grumpyre egg has hatched. You can now sell the Grumpyre, or select the option to place the Grumpyre on Cold Island or Ethereal Island.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Buy the Grumpyre for 1,000 diamonds from the Market if you don’t want to breed this monster or wait for the 36-hour breeding period to end. After you reach level nine, tap on “Market,” tap on “Monsters,” tap on “Grumpyre,” then tap on “Buy” to purchase the Grumpyre for 1,000 diamonds.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Can induce rage when not working\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
6,964 |
How to Breed a Moon Dragon in DragonVale
|
1. Steps
1-1. Go to your breeding cave or the epic breeding island.
Your park needs to be at level 10 or higher before trying to breed this dragon.
1-2. For a successful outcome, the elements of cold and lightning need to be present, and as such, there are numerous possible combinations of breeding pairs.
Some suggestions for possible combinations include:
Cold dragon with a lightning dragon
Blue fire dragon with a storm dragon
Crystal dragon with a blue fire dragon
Mud dragon with a storm dragon
Quake dragon with an ice dragon
Flower dragon with a storm dragon
Water dragon with a firefly dragon
Sonic with a snow dragon
Fire dragon with a storm dragon.
1-3. Wait 48 hours for breeding.
The egg color will be a silvery blue with a half moon icon on it.
Breeding time can be hastened by spending gems.
1-4. Put the egg into nursery and wait another 48 hours until it hatches.
1-5. Place the moon dragon in a moon habitat.
To help it grow, feed it the same food as all baby dragons.
Tips
Moon dragons can be produced by a level 10 firefly and a level 10 crystal dragon.
As with all dragon breeding, it may take a few attempts to get this dragon. Just keep trying.
At level 1, this dragon will earn 40 coins per minute. At level 10, it will earn 261 coins per minute. (These are without boosts.)
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:58:41",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Go to your breeding cave or the epic breeding island.\\nYour park needs to be at level 10 or higher before trying to breed this dragon.\\n1-2. For a successful outcome, the elements of cold and lightning need to be present, and as such, there are numerous possible combinations of breeding pairs.\\nSome suggestions for possible combinations include:\\nCold dragon with a lightning dragon\\nBlue fire dragon with a storm dragon\\nCrystal dragon with a blue fire dragon\\nMud dragon with a storm dragon\\nQuake dragon with an ice dragon\\nFlower dragon with a storm dragon\\nWater dragon with a firefly dragon\\nSonic with a snow dragon\\nFire dragon with a storm dragon.\\n1-3. Wait 48 hours for breeding.\\nThe egg color will be a silvery blue with a half moon icon on it.\\nBreeding time can be hastened by spending gems.\\n1-4. Put the egg into nursery and wait another 48 hours until it hatches.\\n\\n1-5. Place the moon dragon in a moon habitat.\\nTo help it grow, feed it the same food as all baby dragons.\\nTips\\nMoon dragons can be produced by a level 10 firefly and a level 10 crystal dragon.\\nAs with all dragon breeding, it may take a few attempts to get this dragon. Just keep trying.\\nAt level 1, this dragon will earn 40 coins per minute. At level 10, it will earn 261 coins per minute. (These are without boosts.)\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"The moon dragon is a silvery colored dragon that needs to be placed in the moon habitat in your DragonVale park. This dragon can be bred using various different combinations of cold and lightning.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Go to your breeding cave or the epic breeding island.\", \"描述\": \"Your park needs to be at level 10 or higher before trying to breed this dragon.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"For a successful outcome, the elements of cold and lightning need to be present, and as such, there are numerous possible combinations of breeding pairs.\", \"描述\": \"Some suggestions for possible combinations include:\\nCold dragon with a lightning dragon\\nBlue fire dragon with a storm dragon\\nCrystal dragon with a blue fire dragon\\nMud dragon with a storm dragon\\nQuake dragon with an ice dragon\\nFlower dragon with a storm dragon\\nWater dragon with a firefly dragon\\nSonic with a snow dragon\\nFire dragon with a storm dragon.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Wait 48 hours for breeding.\", \"描述\": \"The egg color will be a silvery blue with a half moon icon on it.\\nBreeding time can be hastened by spending gems.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Put the egg into nursery and wait another 48 hours until it hatches.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Place the moon dragon in a moon habitat.\", \"描述\": \"To help it grow, feed it the same food as all baby dragons.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Moon dragons can be produced by a level 10 firefly and a level 10 crystal dragon.\\n\", \"As with all dragon breeding, it may take a few attempts to get this dragon. Just keep trying.\\n\", \"At level 1, this dragon will earn 40 coins per minute. At level 10, it will earn 261 coins per minute. (These are without boosts.)\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
6,965 |
How to Breed a Pet Ferret
|
1. Breeding Pet Ferrets
1-1. Select which ferrets to breed.
Breeding ferrets is a serious responsibility. Breeding ferrets that are related or have behavioral and/or physical health problems could introduce undesirable traits into the ferret population. For example, breeding closely-related ferrets could result in health problems in the babies (e.g. blindness, deafness) or pregnancy-related problems for the mother (e.g., small litters, premature death of babies).
If you already have a male and female ferret, you may want to have them genetically tested to make sure they are not closely related. Speak with your veterinarian about genetic testing options.
Prior to breeding, take your ferrets to your veterinarian to ensure they are healthy.
1-2. Watch for signs that the ferrets are ready to mate.
Ferrets reach sexual maturity during the first spring after their birth. This will be about four months of age for females (‘jills’) and between six and eight months of age for males (‘hobs’). The spring coincides with the ferret breeding season, so start to look for signs that your ferrets are ready to breed when the days get longer and the temperature starts to warm up.
A jill in heat will have a swollen and enlarged vulva, which is part of her external genitalia. You will notice a pink and watery secretion coming from her vaginal area.
On your hob, you will notice that his testicles drop (hang lower from his body) and become larger. The hob equivalent of being in heat is a ‘rut.’
Your hob’s personal hygiene will take a nosedive when he’s ready to breed. He will urinate to mark his territory and even drag his stomach through the urine. He will also secrete oil to mark his territory.
Male and female ferrets that are ready to breed both develop greasy skin and become quite smelly.
1-3. Place the jill in the hob’s cage.
When you put the ferrets together, sit back and wait for the mating ritual to begin. Be aware that the ferret mating process is anything but romantic—the male will bite the female’s neck and even drag her around the cage. You may even hear the female scream.
The biting will look disturbing, but it actually has a purpose—biting the jill’s neck releases the hormones in her body that will stimulate ovulation (egg production). Jills are known as induced ovulators, meaning that she has to be bred to start egg production.
The mating process can take anywhere from several hours to several days, and occur over several sessions.
The ferrets’ violent mating ritual may cause you to want to separate them. Don’t do this! The male ferret’s penis is curved such that it ‘locks’ the female in place until mating is over. Trying to separate them will do more harm than good.
1-4. Observe the jill after mating.
After mating, move the jill back to her cage. If the mating was successful, she will gain weight and start nesting. She will also start pulling fur out of her tail and body.
Jills also make clucking noises when they are pregnant.
You can tell if the jill is pregnant starting about two weeks after a successful mating. You could also have your veterinarian perform an abdominal ultrasound on the jill, but this would be expensive.
Jills can have phantom pregnancies, meaning that they act as if they are pregnant when they are not. High levels of hormones can cause your jill to become bloated and look as if she is pregnant.
Keep in mind that your jill will need to eat more as she approaches the end of her pregnancy so she can handle the energy demands of giving birth and nursing.
If the mating was unsuccessful, try again. Jills remain in heat unless they are bred, which can lead to serious health consequences, including pyometra (infected uterus),, bladder infections,, and anemia. Your female ferret be bred or spayed if she is in heat.
2. Caring for the Pregnant Jill
2-1. Increase your pregnant jill’s food intake.
A jill’s pregnancy typically lasts about 42 days. Pregnancy and giving birth can take a toll on your pregnant jill’s health. She will need to take in more calories and protein to meet her increased energy demands.
Feeding your jill more dry food will also give her the extra protein she will need during nursing.
Feed her the highest quality ferret food that you can find to ensure she is in optimal health before giving birth.
The diet for a pregnant jill should be at least 35% fat and 22% fat.
To give her even more protein, supplement her diet with cooked meat (e.g., chicken) and liver.
A pregnant jill that does not eat enough in late pregnancy can develop a very serious condition called pregnancy toxemia. This is an emergency situation—your veterinarian will need to perform a Cesarean section to save your ferret’s life.
2-2. Put more water in your pregnant jill’s cage.
As with her food intake, your pregnant jill will need to drink a lot more fresh, clean water to get ready for birth and nursing. Increase her water intake to two to three times her normal intake. Put her water in a dish instead of a water bottle—she will likely drink more water from the dish.
If she does not drink enough water, she will also not eat enough food. Without enough intake of food or water, your pregnant jill would not be able to produce enough milk for her babies.
2-3. Prepare a separate cage for the pregnant jill.
Your jill can stay with the hob through most of her pregnancy. About two weeks before the end of her pregnancy, you should move her to her own cage. Put fresh paper bedding or pine shavings in this cage.
Your jill will use the bedding or shavings to make a nest.
Place her cage in a warm, quiet part of your home so she can stay warm and prepare herself for giving birth.
Ramp up her food and water intake when you move her to this separate cage.
3. Caring for the Jill After Birth
3-1. Give the jill her privacy.
Jills are typically pregnant for about 42 days. When your jill gives birth, give her time alone with her babies (‘kits’) for at least a week. Jills may eat their kits when feeling scared or threatened—you definitely don’t want your jill to do this!
You will need to feed her during this private time. Being as stealthy as you can, slip food and water in her cage when she is distracted.
Jills can develop mastitis (mammary gland inflammation) and some of the kits may die after birth, so you should take a quick look at the mom and her babies when you put the food and water in the cage.
Call your veterinarian if the jill doesn’t look well, or if you see dead kits that should be removed.
3-2. Feed your jill as you did when she was pregnant.
Now that your jill is nursing, she will need just as much energy as when she was about to give birth. Continue to feed her two to three times her normal intake.
Be mindful that if she has a large litter (more than 10 kits), she will lose weight no matter how much you feed her. With such a large litter, the caloric and energy demands will always outweigh how much she can eat.
3-3. Minimize bedding changes.
Undoubtedly, your jill’s cage will become smelly after she gives birth. However, you should change the bedding only to check for neglected or abandoned kits. Just like when you put food and water in the cage, be stealthy when you change the bedding.
If you have the cage in an enclosed room, the smell could become unbearable. Increase the air circulation in the room by keeping a door open.
4. Caring for the Kits
4-1. Handle the kits.
When the kits are born, they are only two inches long and are completely dependent on their mother. Their eyes and ears are sealed shut, and they have only the slightest amount of pink fur on their bodies. You can start handling them when they are about one week old, keeping in mind their complete dependence on their mother.
You may have to wait longer than a week if the jill doesn’t seem thrilled with you being near the cage as she cares for her babies. You don’t want your eagerness to handle the kits to be the reason she becomes scared and eats some of her babies.
Because kits are so small when they are born, you can probably hold each one in one hand.
As the kits get bigger, you would pick them up by gently grasping them between their neck and shoulders with one hand and supporting their hind legs with the other hand.
Hold the kits for only a few seconds before placing them back in their cage. When the kits are about a month old, hold them for longer (a few minutes) and speak softly to them.
Do not interrupt feeding time to hold the kits.
4-2. Feed the kits.
Start introducing the kits to solid ferret food when they are about three weeks old. They will still be nursing at this point. They will also still have their baby teeth, so you should soak the solid food in water before feeding it to them. It may help to put the softened food in the refrigerator to let it soften a little more.
You could try feeding the kits baby food as well.
Ferrets can be picky eaters, so you may need to add some kitten milk replacer to the kibble to make it a little tastier.
Check the label for the ferret food: it should be high in protein and low in carbohydrates. The protein source should be meat based, such as chicken.
Cat foods are usually not ideal to feed ferrets, since they do not have enough fat to meet a ferret’s nutritional needs.
4-3. Wean the kits.
The kits should be weaned they are about six weeks old. Their adult teeth will start growing in by this age, so you can start soaking their food in less and less water until you can feed them completely dry food.
A kit will have its full set of adult teeth by about nine months of age.
Keep in mind that kits should stay with their mother until 12 weeks of age. Although they will be able to eat solid food and should be more comfortable with human handling by six weeks of age, they should stay under their mother’s care for a little while longer.
4-4. Take the kits to the veterinarian.
Your veterinarian should look over each kit to make sure it is healthy and growing well. The kits’ physical examinations will include checks for parasites, ear mites, fleas, and birth defects. Your veterinarian will make treatment recommendations based on the results of the physical examination.
The kits will also need to receive several vaccinations: canine distemper vaccine at two and three months, and the rabies vaccine at three and four months.
4-5. Potty train the kits.
Before you make the kits ready for adoption, you should train them in a few areas, such as potty training and training them not to bite. A simple way to potty train the kits is to watch first where they usually go to the bathroom. Place a litter box in that area and encourage them to use the litter box.
It may help to give them a little treat each time they use it so they associate the litter box with something good.
Ideal litters contain no dust. Examples include recycled paper pellets and fine softwood shavings. If the wood shavings contain cedar, the amount will likely be too small to cause toxicity in your kits.
Clumping litter is not recommended because the kits can make a mess of it and possibly inhale it into their lungs.
4-6. Stop inappropriate biting behavior.
Kits tend to explore their new world with their mouths, which means they will probably want to bite or nip at just about everything. The biting and nipping are also ways that kits establish hierarchy with their litter mates.
To discourage inappropriate biting behavior, give the kit a firm ‘No!’ if it bites when you pick it up. It may take a long time for the kits to get the message that they’re not supposed to bite you, but they will eventually learn.
Do not cuddle the kits until they learn not to bite.
Discouraging a kit from biting at a young age will help them become better socialized by the time they are old enough to be adopted.
Kits that are well trained and socialized will not bite and nip as much when they become adults. However, they will probably continue to nip at their toys and other cage items throughout their lives.
Tips
Breeding pet ferrets often involves a major investment of time and money.[69]
X
Research source
Do not breed your ferrets if you are not ready for the commitment.
The typical ferret litter size is six to eight kits.[70]
X
Research source
Jills come back into heat about two weeks after weaning.[71]
X
Research source
Warnings
Breeding ferrets is not for amateurs.[73]
X
Research source
Improper breeding can lead to birth defects in the kits, as well as health complications in females
The mortality rate for kits is high.
A jill that is not bred when in heat can suffer serious health consequences, such as anemia and bladder infections.[74]
X
Research source
Pregnancy toxemia is a very serious pregnancy complication in jills. It requires emergency veterinary treatment, but there is no guarantee that the jill or her kits will survive.[75]
X
Research source
Jills can suffer from other pregnancy complications including mastitis, death of the kits, and dystocia (difficult birth).[76]
X
Research source
[77]
X
Research source
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:58:41",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Breeding Pet Ferrets\\n1-1. Select which ferrets to breed.\\nBreeding ferrets is a serious responsibility. Breeding ferrets that are related or have behavioral and/or physical health problems could introduce undesirable traits into the ferret population. For example, breeding closely-related ferrets could result in health problems in the babies (e.g. blindness, deafness) or pregnancy-related problems for the mother (e.g., small litters, premature death of babies).\\nIf you already have a male and female ferret, you may want to have them genetically tested to make sure they are not closely related. Speak with your veterinarian about genetic testing options.\\nPrior to breeding, take your ferrets to your veterinarian to ensure they are healthy.\\n1-2. Watch for signs that the ferrets are ready to mate.\\nFerrets reach sexual maturity during the first spring after their birth. This will be about four months of age for females (‘jills’) and between six and eight months of age for males (‘hobs’). The spring coincides with the ferret breeding season, so start to look for signs that your ferrets are ready to breed when the days get longer and the temperature starts to warm up.\\nA jill in heat will have a swollen and enlarged vulva, which is part of her external genitalia. You will notice a pink and watery secretion coming from her vaginal area.\\nOn your hob, you will notice that his testicles drop (hang lower from his body) and become larger. The hob equivalent of being in heat is a ‘rut.’\\nYour hob’s personal hygiene will take a nosedive when he’s ready to breed. He will urinate to mark his territory and even drag his stomach through the urine. He will also secrete oil to mark his territory.\\nMale and female ferrets that are ready to breed both develop greasy skin and become quite smelly.\\n1-3. Place the jill in the hob’s cage.\\nWhen you put the ferrets together, sit back and wait for the mating ritual to begin. Be aware that the ferret mating process is anything but romantic—the male will bite the female’s neck and even drag her around the cage. You may even hear the female scream.\\nThe biting will look disturbing, but it actually has a purpose—biting the jill’s neck releases the hormones in her body that will stimulate ovulation (egg production). Jills are known as induced ovulators, meaning that she has to be bred to start egg production.\\nThe mating process can take anywhere from several hours to several days, and occur over several sessions.\\nThe ferrets’ violent mating ritual may cause you to want to separate them. Don’t do this! The male ferret’s penis is curved such that it ‘locks’ the female in place until mating is over. Trying to separate them will do more harm than good.\\n1-4. Observe the jill after mating.\\nAfter mating, move the jill back to her cage. If the mating was successful, she will gain weight and start nesting. She will also start pulling fur out of her tail and body.\\nJills also make clucking noises when they are pregnant.\\nYou can tell if the jill is pregnant starting about two weeks after a successful mating. You could also have your veterinarian perform an abdominal ultrasound on the jill, but this would be expensive.\\nJills can have phantom pregnancies, meaning that they act as if they are pregnant when they are not. High levels of hormones can cause your jill to become bloated and look as if she is pregnant.\\nKeep in mind that your jill will need to eat more as she approaches the end of her pregnancy so she can handle the energy demands of giving birth and nursing.\\nIf the mating was unsuccessful, try again. Jills remain in heat unless they are bred, which can lead to serious health consequences, including pyometra (infected uterus),, bladder infections,, and anemia. Your female ferret be bred or spayed if she is in heat.\\n2. Caring for the Pregnant Jill\\n2-1. Increase your pregnant jill’s food intake.\\nA jill’s pregnancy typically lasts about 42 days. Pregnancy and giving birth can take a toll on your pregnant jill’s health. She will need to take in more calories and protein to meet her increased energy demands.\\nFeeding your jill more dry food will also give her the extra protein she will need during nursing.\\nFeed her the highest quality ferret food that you can find to ensure she is in optimal health before giving birth.\\nThe diet for a pregnant jill should be at least 35% fat and 22% fat.\\nTo give her even more protein, supplement her diet with cooked meat (e.g., chicken) and liver.\\nA pregnant jill that does not eat enough in late pregnancy can develop a very serious condition called pregnancy toxemia. This is an emergency situation—your veterinarian will need to perform a Cesarean section to save your ferret’s life.\\n2-2. Put more water in your pregnant jill’s cage.\\nAs with her food intake, your pregnant jill will need to drink a lot more fresh, clean water to get ready for birth and nursing. Increase her water intake to two to three times her normal intake. Put her water in a dish instead of a water bottle—she will likely drink more water from the dish.\\nIf she does not drink enough water, she will also not eat enough food. Without enough intake of food or water, your pregnant jill would not be able to produce enough milk for her babies.\\n2-3. Prepare a separate cage for the pregnant jill.\\nYour jill can stay with the hob through most of her pregnancy. About two weeks before the end of her pregnancy, you should move her to her own cage. Put fresh paper bedding or pine shavings in this cage.\\nYour jill will use the bedding or shavings to make a nest.\\nPlace her cage in a warm, quiet part of your home so she can stay warm and prepare herself for giving birth.\\nRamp up her food and water intake when you move her to this separate cage.\\n3. Caring for the Jill After Birth\\n3-1. Give the jill her privacy.\\nJills are typically pregnant for about 42 days. When your jill gives birth, give her time alone with her babies (‘kits’) for at least a week. Jills may eat their kits when feeling scared or threatened—you definitely don’t want your jill to do this!\\nYou will need to feed her during this private time. Being as stealthy as you can, slip food and water in her cage when she is distracted.\\nJills can develop mastitis (mammary gland inflammation) and some of the kits may die after birth, so you should take a quick look at the mom and her babies when you put the food and water in the cage.\\nCall your veterinarian if the jill doesn’t look well, or if you see dead kits that should be removed.\\n3-2. Feed your jill as you did when she was pregnant.\\nNow that your jill is nursing, she will need just as much energy as when she was about to give birth. Continue to feed her two to three times her normal intake.\\nBe mindful that if she has a large litter (more than 10 kits), she will lose weight no matter how much you feed her. With such a large litter, the caloric and energy demands will always outweigh how much she can eat.\\n3-3. Minimize bedding changes.\\nUndoubtedly, your jill’s cage will become smelly after she gives birth. However, you should change the bedding only to check for neglected or abandoned kits. Just like when you put food and water in the cage, be stealthy when you change the bedding.\\nIf you have the cage in an enclosed room, the smell could become unbearable. Increase the air circulation in the room by keeping a door open.\\n4. Caring for the Kits\\n4-1. Handle the kits.\\nWhen the kits are born, they are only two inches long and are completely dependent on their mother. Their eyes and ears are sealed shut, and they have only the slightest amount of pink fur on their bodies. You can start handling them when they are about one week old, keeping in mind their complete dependence on their mother.\\nYou may have to wait longer than a week if the jill doesn’t seem thrilled with you being near the cage as she cares for her babies. You don’t want your eagerness to handle the kits to be the reason she becomes scared and eats some of her babies.\\nBecause kits are so small when they are born, you can probably hold each one in one hand.\\nAs the kits get bigger, you would pick them up by gently grasping them between their neck and shoulders with one hand and supporting their hind legs with the other hand.\\nHold the kits for only a few seconds before placing them back in their cage. When the kits are about a month old, hold them for longer (a few minutes) and speak softly to them.\\nDo not interrupt feeding time to hold the kits.\\n4-2. Feed the kits.\\nStart introducing the kits to solid ferret food when they are about three weeks old. They will still be nursing at this point. They will also still have their baby teeth, so you should soak the solid food in water before feeding it to them. It may help to put the softened food in the refrigerator to let it soften a little more.\\nYou could try feeding the kits baby food as well.\\nFerrets can be picky eaters, so you may need to add some kitten milk replacer to the kibble to make it a little tastier.\\nCheck the label for the ferret food: it should be high in protein and low in carbohydrates. The protein source should be meat based, such as chicken.\\nCat foods are usually not ideal to feed ferrets, since they do not have enough fat to meet a ferret’s nutritional needs.\\n4-3. Wean the kits.\\nThe kits should be weaned they are about six weeks old. Their adult teeth will start growing in by this age, so you can start soaking their food in less and less water until you can feed them completely dry food.\\nA kit will have its full set of adult teeth by about nine months of age.\\nKeep in mind that kits should stay with their mother until 12 weeks of age. Although they will be able to eat solid food and should be more comfortable with human handling by six weeks of age, they should stay under their mother’s care for a little while longer.\\n4-4. Take the kits to the veterinarian.\\nYour veterinarian should look over each kit to make sure it is healthy and growing well. The kits’ physical examinations will include checks for parasites, ear mites, fleas, and birth defects. Your veterinarian will make treatment recommendations based on the results of the physical examination.\\nThe kits will also need to receive several vaccinations: canine distemper vaccine at two and three months, and the rabies vaccine at three and four months.\\n4-5. Potty train the kits.\\nBefore you make the kits ready for adoption, you should train them in a few areas, such as potty training and training them not to bite. A simple way to potty train the kits is to watch first where they usually go to the bathroom. Place a litter box in that area and encourage them to use the litter box.\\nIt may help to give them a little treat each time they use it so they associate the litter box with something good.\\nIdeal litters contain no dust. Examples include recycled paper pellets and fine softwood shavings. If the wood shavings contain cedar, the amount will likely be too small to cause toxicity in your kits.\\nClumping litter is not recommended because the kits can make a mess of it and possibly inhale it into their lungs.\\n4-6. Stop inappropriate biting behavior.\\nKits tend to explore their new world with their mouths, which means they will probably want to bite or nip at just about everything. The biting and nipping are also ways that kits establish hierarchy with their litter mates.\\nTo discourage inappropriate biting behavior, give the kit a firm ‘No!’ if it bites when you pick it up. It may take a long time for the kits to get the message that they’re not supposed to bite you, but they will eventually learn.\\nDo not cuddle the kits until they learn not to bite.\\nDiscouraging a kit from biting at a young age will help them become better socialized by the time they are old enough to be adopted.\\nKits that are well trained and socialized will not bite and nip as much when they become adults. However, they will probably continue to nip at their toys and other cage items throughout their lives.\\nTips\\nBreeding pet ferrets often involves a major investment of time and money.[69]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\\n\\n\\n Do not breed your ferrets if you are not ready for the commitment.\\nThe typical ferret litter size is six to eight kits.[70]\\nX\\nResearch source\\nJills come back into heat about two weeks after weaning.[71]\\nX\\nResearch source\\nWarnings\\nBreeding ferrets is not for amateurs.[73]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\\n\\n\\n Improper breeding can lead to birth defects in the kits, as well as health complications in females\\nThe mortality rate for kits is high.\\nA jill that is not bred when in heat can suffer serious health consequences, such as anemia and bladder infections.[74]\\nX\\nResearch source\\nPregnancy toxemia is a very serious pregnancy complication in jills. It requires emergency veterinary treatment, but there is no guarantee that the jill or her kits will survive.[75]\\nX\\nResearch source\\nJills can suffer from other pregnancy complications including mastitis, death of the kits, and dystocia (difficult birth).[76]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\\n\\n\\n[77]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Ferrets are fun as animals to keep as pets. They're sociable and will probably want to climb all over you if given the chance! Breeding ferrets, however, is not as simple as just pairing a male and female together. If you are thinking about your pet ferret, you will need to become very knowledgeable about the breeding process and spend the time (and money) to ensure the parents and babies are healthy.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Breeding Pet Ferrets\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Select which ferrets to breed.\", \"描述\": \"Breeding ferrets is a serious responsibility. Breeding ferrets that are related or have behavioral and/or physical health problems could introduce undesirable traits into the ferret population. For example, breeding closely-related ferrets could result in health problems in the babies (e.g. blindness, deafness) or pregnancy-related problems for the mother (e.g., small litters, premature death of babies).\\nIf you already have a male and female ferret, you may want to have them genetically tested to make sure they are not closely related. Speak with your veterinarian about genetic testing options.\\nPrior to breeding, take your ferrets to your veterinarian to ensure they are healthy.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Watch for signs that the ferrets are ready to mate.\", \"描述\": \"Ferrets reach sexual maturity during the first spring after their birth. This will be about four months of age for females (‘jills’) and between six and eight months of age for males (‘hobs’). The spring coincides with the ferret breeding season, so start to look for signs that your ferrets are ready to breed when the days get longer and the temperature starts to warm up.\\nA jill in heat will have a swollen and enlarged vulva, which is part of her external genitalia. You will notice a pink and watery secretion coming from her vaginal area.\\nOn your hob, you will notice that his testicles drop (hang lower from his body) and become larger. The hob equivalent of being in heat is a ‘rut.’\\nYour hob’s personal hygiene will take a nosedive when he’s ready to breed. He will urinate to mark his territory and even drag his stomach through the urine. He will also secrete oil to mark his territory.\\nMale and female ferrets that are ready to breed both develop greasy skin and become quite smelly.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Place the jill in the hob’s cage.\", \"描述\": \"When you put the ferrets together, sit back and wait for the mating ritual to begin. Be aware that the ferret mating process is anything but romantic—the male will bite the female’s neck and even drag her around the cage. You may even hear the female scream.\\nThe biting will look disturbing, but it actually has a purpose—biting the jill’s neck releases the hormones in her body that will stimulate ovulation (egg production). Jills are known as induced ovulators, meaning that she has to be bred to start egg production.\\nThe mating process can take anywhere from several hours to several days, and occur over several sessions.\\nThe ferrets’ violent mating ritual may cause you to want to separate them. Don’t do this! The male ferret’s penis is curved such that it ‘locks’ the female in place until mating is over. Trying to separate them will do more harm than good.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Observe the jill after mating.\", \"描述\": \"After mating, move the jill back to her cage. If the mating was successful, she will gain weight and start nesting. She will also start pulling fur out of her tail and body.\\nJills also make clucking noises when they are pregnant.\\nYou can tell if the jill is pregnant starting about two weeks after a successful mating. You could also have your veterinarian perform an abdominal ultrasound on the jill, but this would be expensive.\\nJills can have phantom pregnancies, meaning that they act as if they are pregnant when they are not. High levels of hormones can cause your jill to become bloated and look as if she is pregnant.\\nKeep in mind that your jill will need to eat more as she approaches the end of her pregnancy so she can handle the energy demands of giving birth and nursing.\\nIf the mating was unsuccessful, try again. Jills remain in heat unless they are bred, which can lead to serious health consequences, including pyometra (infected uterus),, bladder infections,, and anemia. Your female ferret be bred or spayed if she is in heat.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Caring for the Pregnant Jill\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Increase your pregnant jill’s food intake.\", \"描述\": \"A jill’s pregnancy typically lasts about 42 days. Pregnancy and giving birth can take a toll on your pregnant jill’s health. She will need to take in more calories and protein to meet her increased energy demands.\\nFeeding your jill more dry food will also give her the extra protein she will need during nursing.\\nFeed her the highest quality ferret food that you can find to ensure she is in optimal health before giving birth.\\nThe diet for a pregnant jill should be at least 35% fat and 22% fat.\\nTo give her even more protein, supplement her diet with cooked meat (e.g., chicken) and liver.\\nA pregnant jill that does not eat enough in late pregnancy can develop a very serious condition called pregnancy toxemia. This is an emergency situation—your veterinarian will need to perform a Cesarean section to save your ferret’s life.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Put more water in your pregnant jill’s cage.\", \"描述\": \"As with her food intake, your pregnant jill will need to drink a lot more fresh, clean water to get ready for birth and nursing. Increase her water intake to two to three times her normal intake. Put her water in a dish instead of a water bottle—she will likely drink more water from the dish.\\nIf she does not drink enough water, she will also not eat enough food. Without enough intake of food or water, your pregnant jill would not be able to produce enough milk for her babies.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Prepare a separate cage for the pregnant jill.\", \"描述\": \"Your jill can stay with the hob through most of her pregnancy. About two weeks before the end of her pregnancy, you should move her to her own cage. Put fresh paper bedding or pine shavings in this cage.\\nYour jill will use the bedding or shavings to make a nest.\\nPlace her cage in a warm, quiet part of your home so she can stay warm and prepare herself for giving birth.\\nRamp up her food and water intake when you move her to this separate cage.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Caring for the Jill After Birth\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Give the jill her privacy.\", \"描述\": \"Jills are typically pregnant for about 42 days. When your jill gives birth, give her time alone with her babies (‘kits’) for at least a week. Jills may eat their kits when feeling scared or threatened—you definitely don’t want your jill to do this!\\nYou will need to feed her during this private time. Being as stealthy as you can, slip food and water in her cage when she is distracted.\\nJills can develop mastitis (mammary gland inflammation) and some of the kits may die after birth, so you should take a quick look at the mom and her babies when you put the food and water in the cage.\\nCall your veterinarian if the jill doesn’t look well, or if you see dead kits that should be removed.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Feed your jill as you did when she was pregnant.\", \"描述\": \"Now that your jill is nursing, she will need just as much energy as when she was about to give birth. Continue to feed her two to three times her normal intake.\\nBe mindful that if she has a large litter (more than 10 kits), she will lose weight no matter how much you feed her. With such a large litter, the caloric and energy demands will always outweigh how much she can eat.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Minimize bedding changes.\", \"描述\": \"Undoubtedly, your jill’s cage will become smelly after she gives birth. However, you should change the bedding only to check for neglected or abandoned kits. Just like when you put food and water in the cage, be stealthy when you change the bedding.\\nIf you have the cage in an enclosed room, the smell could become unbearable. Increase the air circulation in the room by keeping a door open.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Caring for the Kits\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Handle the kits.\", \"描述\": \"When the kits are born, they are only two inches long and are completely dependent on their mother. Their eyes and ears are sealed shut, and they have only the slightest amount of pink fur on their bodies. You can start handling them when they are about one week old, keeping in mind their complete dependence on their mother.\\nYou may have to wait longer than a week if the jill doesn’t seem thrilled with you being near the cage as she cares for her babies. You don’t want your eagerness to handle the kits to be the reason she becomes scared and eats some of her babies.\\nBecause kits are so small when they are born, you can probably hold each one in one hand.\\nAs the kits get bigger, you would pick them up by gently grasping them between their neck and shoulders with one hand and supporting their hind legs with the other hand.\\nHold the kits for only a few seconds before placing them back in their cage. When the kits are about a month old, hold them for longer (a few minutes) and speak softly to them.\\nDo not interrupt feeding time to hold the kits.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Feed the kits.\", \"描述\": \"Start introducing the kits to solid ferret food when they are about three weeks old. They will still be nursing at this point. They will also still have their baby teeth, so you should soak the solid food in water before feeding it to them. It may help to put the softened food in the refrigerator to let it soften a little more.\\nYou could try feeding the kits baby food as well.\\nFerrets can be picky eaters, so you may need to add some kitten milk replacer to the kibble to make it a little tastier.\\nCheck the label for the ferret food: it should be high in protein and low in carbohydrates. The protein source should be meat based, such as chicken.\\nCat foods are usually not ideal to feed ferrets, since they do not have enough fat to meet a ferret’s nutritional needs.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Wean the kits.\", \"描述\": \"The kits should be weaned they are about six weeks old. Their adult teeth will start growing in by this age, so you can start soaking their food in less and less water until you can feed them completely dry food.\\nA kit will have its full set of adult teeth by about nine months of age.\\nKeep in mind that kits should stay with their mother until 12 weeks of age. Although they will be able to eat solid food and should be more comfortable with human handling by six weeks of age, they should stay under their mother’s care for a little while longer.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Take the kits to the veterinarian.\", \"描述\": \"Your veterinarian should look over each kit to make sure it is healthy and growing well. The kits’ physical examinations will include checks for parasites, ear mites, fleas, and birth defects. Your veterinarian will make treatment recommendations based on the results of the physical examination.\\nThe kits will also need to receive several vaccinations: canine distemper vaccine at two and three months, and the rabies vaccine at three and four months.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Potty train the kits.\", \"描述\": \"Before you make the kits ready for adoption, you should train them in a few areas, such as potty training and training them not to bite. A simple way to potty train the kits is to watch first where they usually go to the bathroom. Place a litter box in that area and encourage them to use the litter box.\\nIt may help to give them a little treat each time they use it so they associate the litter box with something good.\\nIdeal litters contain no dust. Examples include recycled paper pellets and fine softwood shavings. If the wood shavings contain cedar, the amount will likely be too small to cause toxicity in your kits.\\nClumping litter is not recommended because the kits can make a mess of it and possibly inhale it into their lungs.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Stop inappropriate biting behavior.\", \"描述\": \"Kits tend to explore their new world with their mouths, which means they will probably want to bite or nip at just about everything. The biting and nipping are also ways that kits establish hierarchy with their litter mates.\\nTo discourage inappropriate biting behavior, give the kit a firm ‘No!’ if it bites when you pick it up. It may take a long time for the kits to get the message that they’re not supposed to bite you, but they will eventually learn.\\nDo not cuddle the kits until they learn not to bite.\\nDiscouraging a kit from biting at a young age will help them become better socialized by the time they are old enough to be adopted.\\nKits that are well trained and socialized will not bite and nip as much when they become adults. However, they will probably continue to nip at their toys and other cage items throughout their lives.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Breeding pet ferrets often involves a major investment of time and money.[69]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\\n\\n\\n Do not breed your ferrets if you are not ready for the commitment.\\n\", \"The typical ferret litter size is six to eight kits.[70]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\", \"Jills come back into heat about two weeks after weaning.[71]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Breeding ferrets is not for amateurs.[73]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\\n\\n\\n Improper breeding can lead to birth defects in the kits, as well as health complications in females\\n\", \"The mortality rate for kits is high.\\n\", \"A jill that is not bred when in heat can suffer serious health consequences, such as anemia and bladder infections.[74]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\", \"Pregnancy toxemia is a very serious pregnancy complication in jills. It requires emergency veterinary treatment, but there is no guarantee that the jill or her kits will survive.[75]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\", \"Jills can suffer from other pregnancy complications including mastitis, death of the kits, and dystocia (difficult birth).[76]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\\n\\n\\n[77]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
6,966 |
How to Breed a Pet Snail
|
1. Taking Precautions
1-1. Make sure you are ready to care for the baby snails.
This includes getting a new terrarium and being ready to provide extra attention and a little more time to the task.
1-2. Be informed about mating.
Most snails are hermaphrodites meaning they have both male and female sex organs. After laying a clutch of eggs, snails are generally ready to reproduce again in six weeks throughout the year. Snails lay between 30 and 140 eggs at a time; that's nearly 480 snails a year!
The mating of two snails is possible but extremely painful for both snails, so it's not necessarily encouraged. For two snails to mate, one snail aggressively fights the other looking for attention harming both snails in the process. Eventually the pursued snail will give in and involuntarily receive a 'love dart' full of sperm. You might see a little white dagger-like thing sticking out of the snails body. Do not attempt to remove this as it could harm the snail even more. The love dart is the equivalent of having a thumb-sized needle in your stomach.
To prevent mating, keep an eye out. You might see a snail with its male genitalia out (penis). This is identifiable by the long white stick-like thing close to the shell. Move the snail to a different terrarium until it has fully retracted; this could take a few hours, in some cases up to a day.
1-3. Look out for eggs.
If your snails have already laid eggs and you want to dispose of them, freeze them for 24 hours; then throw them in the trash.
2. Setting the Scene
2-1. Make sure the condition of your snail's home is in good shape.
The soil must be at least 2 inches (5.1 cm) deep and must be quite moist. Make sure you purchase soil from your local store, just make sure there are no pesticides or fertilizer in the soil as it could harm your snail. Never use soil from your garden as it could contain pests or parasites that could harm (or kill!) your snail.
Snails need air! They're not that much different from us! If you put them in a plastic container, make sure you pop some holes in the top. Keep the temperature moderate and comfortable too.
2-2. Take care of their basic needs.
This doesn't include singing to them, because they don't have ears. But they do have eyes and a mouth -- so make sure to provide the right lighting and food necessary for their growth and success. Check on them regularly.
2-3. Snails are omnivores, which means they eat vegetation and animals.
Some good sources of food are:
Apples
Apricot
Banana
Blackberry
Grapes
Kiwi
Mango
Melon
Nectarines
Orange, Papaya, Prickly pear, Peach, Pear, Plum, Raspberry, Strawberry, Tomato, Lettuce, Broccoli, Spinach, Cabbage, Cucumber, Green beans, Mushrooms, Peas, Potato, Sprouts, Sweet corn, Turnip, Watercress, and non-seasoned, raw meat. Don't forget the water!
Most snails are nocturnal. If you turn on the interrogation lights at night, they'll immediately go to hide in their shells. If you're looking for a good show, they'll be the most entertaining in early evening, at night, and in the wee hours of the morning. Sprinkle them with water if you want to excite them a bit!
2-4. Make sure they have some foliage to frolic in.
Don't worry; they use their feelers to sense obstacles (lacking the sight to do so). Get a couple of leaves and sticks in the cage and make sure you spray it with a water sprayer at least once a day. Add a layer of sphagnum moss or leaves, remember to wet all of it. If your snails aren't already in their home, place them in now.
They love damp and dark. You may miss the act of their breeding unless you take up nocturnal habits yourself. Unfortunately, there is not much more you can do other than creating a hospitable environment.
3. Waiting It Out
3-1. Be patient.
You must now wait until the two snails have 'mated' or impregnated themselves. When they have, it takes a week or two for them to lay. It can take 1 to 4 weeks for the eggs themselves to hatch depending on the species. Some snails lay them all at once while others spread them around.
3-2. Watch the eggs hatch.
This all depends on the species of your snail and the species you bred it with. It could be a very slow or very fast process -- wait and see!
The eggs will start to hatch in 1 to 4 weeks onward in some species but it is genes and possibly species dependent, with additional factors of how long they have been stored internally and the ambient and soil temperature. Eggs do not necessarily hatch uniformly and this is more noticeable in species that have a long gestation period (perhaps 4 weeks). The first (usually an uppermost member) to hatch can be 10 days or more in front of the main group, with some taking noticeably longer.
3-3. Make sure to add a fresh food and water source.
Add calcium to help your snails grow strong shells, too. they love to play. Pick them up and let them crawl on your hand, but be careful; you may crack their shell. Don't pick small ones up, because their shell is very weak. With the adults, do not ever pick them up by their shell.
Tips
The parent may come back and eat the eggs. If you have another tank available, use it for the eggs to hatch in.
Instead of moving the eggs to a new tank, move the adults instead.
If there are no babies, wait another 2 weeks or so, keep in mind that some species take up to 4 weeks to hatch.
Warnings
Be careful when you clean out the terrarium because there may be eggs buried in the soil.
Don't forget to wash your hands after handling your snails as they produce mucus and could spread diseases otherwise.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:58:41",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Taking Precautions\\n1-1. Make sure you are ready to care for the baby snails.\\nThis includes getting a new terrarium and being ready to provide extra attention and a little more time to the task.\\n1-2. Be informed about mating.\\nMost snails are hermaphrodites meaning they have both male and female sex organs. After laying a clutch of eggs, snails are generally ready to reproduce again in six weeks throughout the year. Snails lay between 30 and 140 eggs at a time; that's nearly 480 snails a year!\\nThe mating of two snails is possible but extremely painful for both snails, so it's not necessarily encouraged. For two snails to mate, one snail aggressively fights the other looking for attention harming both snails in the process. Eventually the pursued snail will give in and involuntarily receive a 'love dart' full of sperm. You might see a little white dagger-like thing sticking out of the snails body. Do not attempt to remove this as it could harm the snail even more. The love dart is the equivalent of having a thumb-sized needle in your stomach.\\nTo prevent mating, keep an eye out. You might see a snail with its male genitalia out (penis). This is identifiable by the long white stick-like thing close to the shell. Move the snail to a different terrarium until it has fully retracted; this could take a few hours, in some cases up to a day.\\n1-3. Look out for eggs.\\nIf your snails have already laid eggs and you want to dispose of them, freeze them for 24 hours; then throw them in the trash.\\n2. Setting the Scene\\n2-1. Make sure the condition of your snail's home is in good shape.\\nThe soil must be at least 2 inches (5.1 cm) deep and must be quite moist. Make sure you purchase soil from your local store, just make sure there are no pesticides or fertilizer in the soil as it could harm your snail. Never use soil from your garden as it could contain pests or parasites that could harm (or kill!) your snail. \\nSnails need air! They're not that much different from us! If you put them in a plastic container, make sure you pop some holes in the top. Keep the temperature moderate and comfortable too.\\n2-2. Take care of their basic needs.\\nThis doesn't include singing to them, because they don't have ears. But they do have eyes and a mouth -- so make sure to provide the right lighting and food necessary for their growth and success. Check on them regularly.\\n2-3. Snails are omnivores, which means they eat vegetation and animals.\\nSome good sources of food are:\\nApples\\nApricot\\nBanana\\nBlackberry\\nGrapes\\nKiwi\\nMango\\nMelon\\nNectarines\\nOrange, Papaya, Prickly pear, Peach, Pear, Plum, Raspberry, Strawberry, Tomato, Lettuce, Broccoli, Spinach, Cabbage, Cucumber, Green beans, Mushrooms, Peas, Potato, Sprouts, Sweet corn, Turnip, Watercress, and non-seasoned, raw meat. Don't forget the water!\\nMost snails are nocturnal. If you turn on the interrogation lights at night, they'll immediately go to hide in their shells. If you're looking for a good show, they'll be the most entertaining in early evening, at night, and in the wee hours of the morning. Sprinkle them with water if you want to excite them a bit!\\n2-4. Make sure they have some foliage to frolic in.\\nDon't worry; they use their feelers to sense obstacles (lacking the sight to do so). Get a couple of leaves and sticks in the cage and make sure you spray it with a water sprayer at least once a day. Add a layer of sphagnum moss or leaves, remember to wet all of it. If your snails aren't already in their home, place them in now.\\nThey love damp and dark. You may miss the act of their breeding unless you take up nocturnal habits yourself. Unfortunately, there is not much more you can do other than creating a hospitable environment.\\n3. Waiting It Out\\n3-1. Be patient.\\nYou must now wait until the two snails have 'mated' or impregnated themselves. When they have, it takes a week or two for them to lay. It can take 1 to 4 weeks for the eggs themselves to hatch depending on the species. Some snails lay them all at once while others spread them around.\\n3-2. Watch the eggs hatch.\\nThis all depends on the species of your snail and the species you bred it with. It could be a very slow or very fast process -- wait and see!\\nThe eggs will start to hatch in 1 to 4 weeks onward in some species but it is genes and possibly species dependent, with additional factors of how long they have been stored internally and the ambient and soil temperature. Eggs do not necessarily hatch uniformly and this is more noticeable in species that have a long gestation period (perhaps 4 weeks). The first (usually an uppermost member) to hatch can be 10 days or more in front of the main group, with some taking noticeably longer.\\n3-3. Make sure to add a fresh food and water source.\\nAdd calcium to help your snails grow strong shells, too. they love to play. Pick them up and let them crawl on your hand, but be careful; you may crack their shell. Don't pick small ones up, because their shell is very weak. With the adults, do not ever pick them up by their shell.\\nTips\\nThe parent may come back and eat the eggs. If you have another tank available, use it for the eggs to hatch in.\\nInstead of moving the eggs to a new tank, move the adults instead.\\nIf there are no babies, wait another 2 weeks or so, keep in mind that some species take up to 4 weeks to hatch.\\nWarnings\\nBe careful when you clean out the terrarium because there may be eggs buried in the soil.\\nDon't forget to wash your hands after handling your snails as they produce mucus and could spread diseases otherwise.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Do you keep pet snails as a hobby or you just want an easy to care pet? Do you want to raise the population of your snails but without capturing wild ones? Great! Here is a step by step guide on how to breed pet snails.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Taking Precautions\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Make sure you are ready to care for the baby snails.\", \"描述\": \"This includes getting a new terrarium and being ready to provide extra attention and a little more time to the task.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Be informed about mating.\", \"描述\": \"Most snails are hermaphrodites meaning they have both male and female sex organs. After laying a clutch of eggs, snails are generally ready to reproduce again in six weeks throughout the year. Snails lay between 30 and 140 eggs at a time; that's nearly 480 snails a year!\\nThe mating of two snails is possible but extremely painful for both snails, so it's not necessarily encouraged. For two snails to mate, one snail aggressively fights the other looking for attention harming both snails in the process. Eventually the pursued snail will give in and involuntarily receive a 'love dart' full of sperm. You might see a little white dagger-like thing sticking out of the snails body. Do not attempt to remove this as it could harm the snail even more. The love dart is the equivalent of having a thumb-sized needle in your stomach.\\nTo prevent mating, keep an eye out. You might see a snail with its male genitalia out (penis). This is identifiable by the long white stick-like thing close to the shell. Move the snail to a different terrarium until it has fully retracted; this could take a few hours, in some cases up to a day.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Look out for eggs.\", \"描述\": \"If your snails have already laid eggs and you want to dispose of them, freeze them for 24 hours; then throw them in the trash.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Setting the Scene\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Make sure the condition of your snail's home is in good shape.\", \"描述\": \"The soil must be at least 2 inches (5.1 cm) deep and must be quite moist. Make sure you purchase soil from your local store, just make sure there are no pesticides or fertilizer in the soil as it could harm your snail. Never use soil from your garden as it could contain pests or parasites that could harm (or kill!) your snail. \\nSnails need air! They're not that much different from us! If you put them in a plastic container, make sure you pop some holes in the top. Keep the temperature moderate and comfortable too.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Take care of their basic needs.\", \"描述\": \"This doesn't include singing to them, because they don't have ears. But they do have eyes and a mouth -- so make sure to provide the right lighting and food necessary for their growth and success. Check on them regularly.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Snails are omnivores, which means they eat vegetation and animals.\", \"描述\": \"Some good sources of food are:\\nApples\\nApricot\\nBanana\\nBlackberry\\nGrapes\\nKiwi\\nMango\\nMelon\\nNectarines\\nOrange, Papaya, Prickly pear, Peach, Pear, Plum, Raspberry, Strawberry, Tomato, Lettuce, Broccoli, Spinach, Cabbage, Cucumber, Green beans, Mushrooms, Peas, Potato, Sprouts, Sweet corn, Turnip, Watercress, and non-seasoned, raw meat. Don't forget the water!\\nMost snails are nocturnal. If you turn on the interrogation lights at night, they'll immediately go to hide in their shells. If you're looking for a good show, they'll be the most entertaining in early evening, at night, and in the wee hours of the morning. Sprinkle them with water if you want to excite them a bit!\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Make sure they have some foliage to frolic in.\", \"描述\": \"Don't worry; they use their feelers to sense obstacles (lacking the sight to do so). Get a couple of leaves and sticks in the cage and make sure you spray it with a water sprayer at least once a day. Add a layer of sphagnum moss or leaves, remember to wet all of it. If your snails aren't already in their home, place them in now.\\nThey love damp and dark. You may miss the act of their breeding unless you take up nocturnal habits yourself. Unfortunately, there is not much more you can do other than creating a hospitable environment.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Waiting It Out\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Be patient.\", \"描述\": \"You must now wait until the two snails have 'mated' or impregnated themselves. When they have, it takes a week or two for them to lay. It can take 1 to 4 weeks for the eggs themselves to hatch depending on the species. Some snails lay them all at once while others spread them around.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Watch the eggs hatch.\", \"描述\": \"This all depends on the species of your snail and the species you bred it with. It could be a very slow or very fast process -- wait and see!\\nThe eggs will start to hatch in 1 to 4 weeks onward in some species but it is genes and possibly species dependent, with additional factors of how long they have been stored internally and the ambient and soil temperature. Eggs do not necessarily hatch uniformly and this is more noticeable in species that have a long gestation period (perhaps 4 weeks). The first (usually an uppermost member) to hatch can be 10 days or more in front of the main group, with some taking noticeably longer.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Make sure to add a fresh food and water source.\", \"描述\": \"Add calcium to help your snails grow strong shells, too. they love to play. Pick them up and let them crawl on your hand, but be careful; you may crack their shell. Don't pick small ones up, because their shell is very weak. With the adults, do not ever pick them up by their shell.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"The parent may come back and eat the eggs. If you have another tank available, use it for the eggs to hatch in.\\n\", \"Instead of moving the eggs to a new tank, move the adults instead.\\n\", \"If there are no babies, wait another 2 weeks or so, keep in mind that some species take up to 4 weeks to hatch.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Be careful when you clean out the terrarium because there may be eggs buried in the soil.\\n\", \"Don't forget to wash your hands after handling your snails as they produce mucus and could spread diseases otherwise.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
6,967 |
How to Breed a Pure Dragon in Dragon City
|
1. Getting Your First Pure Dragons
1-1. Do not attempt to get this through breeding.
Ever since the July 2013 Light and War update, it is not possible to get a 100% Pure Dragon in Dragon City through breeding. They are now much more common but must be purchased from the shop as described below.
If you're looking for a challenge, try to breed a legendary dragon instead. Ever since the update, these are the rarest dragons in the game. Breeding two pure dragons together gives a moderate chance at a legend, so consider this method a stepping stone to the rarer dragon.
1-2. Reach level 34.
This is the required level to see Pure Dragon show up as an option in the store.
If you have gold to spare, keep building a farm and selling it for XP. The Huge Food Farm gives the most bang for your buck, if you can afford it. Be careful not to spend too much, since you'll also need plenty of gold to buy your pure dragon.
1-3. Get 15 million gold.
(Note, In current version of Dragon city it costs 2.2 M for habitat and Dragon) Yes, this is how much a Pure Dragon will cost you. If this seems like an impossible amount, try building and upgrading as many farms as you can. This will pay out in the long run.
1-4. Purchase the Pure Dragon.
Visit the build menu's dragon store and purchase your first Pure Dragon. Many players call this the "Pure Unicorn" due to its original horned appearance, but it will be labeled as a Pure Dragon.
2. Breeding Pure Dragons to Make New Dragon Types
2-1. Breed with other single-element dragons to make hybrids.
In almost every case, breeding a Pure Dragon with another "generation 1" dragon has only one possible result, a hybrid of the two types. For example, a Pure and a Dark Dragon breeding together will always make a Pure Dark dragon.
Two of these hybrids have special names. Breeding Pure with War makes a "Kratos Dragon" and breeding Pure with an Archangel (Light) makes a "Zen Dragon."
2-2. Breed special dragons.
There are three special dragons in the game that can be bred from Pure ancestry:
Breed a level 15+ Pure Dragon with a level 15+ Terra Dragon to get an Ivory Dragon.
Breed any dragon with a Pure element along with any dragon with a Light element in a level 7+ Sanctuary for a chance at a Core Dragon. Some unusual combinations involving Sea elements will also work.
Breed any dragon with a Pure element along with any dragon with a Flame element in a level 8 Sanctuary for a chance at a Basilisk Dragon.
2-3. Breed two Pure Dragons for a chance at a legendary.
Any time two dragons with a Pure element are bred together, there's a 6% chance that one of the Legendary dragons shows up. If you're trying to maximize your chances of getting a Legendary dragon, breeding two plain Pure Dragons together is your best bet, since each attempt will take 12 hours of waiting. Other combinations will take a longer time on average, and still only have a 6% chance.
The downside of this strategy is that you'll end up with another Pure Dragon 94% of the time. If you'd rather get new, exciting dragons, just keep breeding combinations of dragons that both include Pure elements, for instance, Kratos Dragon + Pure Dark Dragon. You'll have to wait longer on average each time, but when you fail to get a Legendary you might end up with a cool new dragon.
If you only have one Pure Dragon, instead keep breeding a Pure Flame and a Pure Terra Dragon together, until you get either a Legendary dragon or a second Pure Dragon to breed.
Tips
Some difficult-to-get dragons may act as "wild cards," so you might have a small chance of getting a Pure Dragon by breeding Mirror + Mirror, or Legendary + Crystal. These dragons are difficult to get on their own, though, so saving up to buy one is a much better method.
There are six total legendary dragons, plus several more dragons that can only be obtained by breeding legendary dragons.
Breed the Mermaid (367)and Noble (1056) to get a pure dragon.
Warnings
There are many out-of-date guides online that say you need to breed two legendary dragons together to make a Pure Dragon. This is no longer possible since the 2013 Law and War update.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:58:41",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Getting Your First Pure Dragons\\n1-1. Do not attempt to get this through breeding.\\nEver since the July 2013 Light and War update, it is not possible to get a 100% Pure Dragon in Dragon City through breeding. They are now much more common but must be purchased from the shop as described below.\\nIf you're looking for a challenge, try to breed a legendary dragon instead. Ever since the update, these are the rarest dragons in the game. Breeding two pure dragons together gives a moderate chance at a legend, so consider this method a stepping stone to the rarer dragon.\\n1-2. Reach level 34.\\nThis is the required level to see Pure Dragon show up as an option in the store.\\nIf you have gold to spare, keep building a farm and selling it for XP. The Huge Food Farm gives the most bang for your buck, if you can afford it. Be careful not to spend too much, since you'll also need plenty of gold to buy your pure dragon.\\n1-3. Get 15 million gold.\\n(Note, In current version of Dragon city it costs 2.2 M for habitat and Dragon) Yes, this is how much a Pure Dragon will cost you. If this seems like an impossible amount, try building and upgrading as many farms as you can. This will pay out in the long run.\\n1-4. Purchase the Pure Dragon.\\nVisit the build menu's dragon store and purchase your first Pure Dragon. Many players call this the \\\"Pure Unicorn\\\" due to its original horned appearance, but it will be labeled as a Pure Dragon.\\n2. Breeding Pure Dragons to Make New Dragon Types\\n2-1. Breed with other single-element dragons to make hybrids.\\nIn almost every case, breeding a Pure Dragon with another \\\"generation 1\\\" dragon has only one possible result, a hybrid of the two types. For example, a Pure and a Dark Dragon breeding together will always make a Pure Dark dragon.\\nTwo of these hybrids have special names. Breeding Pure with War makes a \\\"Kratos Dragon\\\" and breeding Pure with an Archangel (Light) makes a \\\"Zen Dragon.\\\"\\n2-2. Breed special dragons.\\nThere are three special dragons in the game that can be bred from Pure ancestry:\\nBreed a level 15+ Pure Dragon with a level 15+ Terra Dragon to get an Ivory Dragon.\\nBreed any dragon with a Pure element along with any dragon with a Light element in a level 7+ Sanctuary for a chance at a Core Dragon. Some unusual combinations involving Sea elements will also work.\\nBreed any dragon with a Pure element along with any dragon with a Flame element in a level 8 Sanctuary for a chance at a Basilisk Dragon.\\n2-3. Breed two Pure Dragons for a chance at a legendary.\\nAny time two dragons with a Pure element are bred together, there's a 6% chance that one of the Legendary dragons shows up. If you're trying to maximize your chances of getting a Legendary dragon, breeding two plain Pure Dragons together is your best bet, since each attempt will take 12 hours of waiting. Other combinations will take a longer time on average, and still only have a 6% chance.\\nThe downside of this strategy is that you'll end up with another Pure Dragon 94% of the time. If you'd rather get new, exciting dragons, just keep breeding combinations of dragons that both include Pure elements, for instance, Kratos Dragon + Pure Dark Dragon. You'll have to wait longer on average each time, but when you fail to get a Legendary you might end up with a cool new dragon.\\nIf you only have one Pure Dragon, instead keep breeding a Pure Flame and a Pure Terra Dragon together, until you get either a Legendary dragon or a second Pure Dragon to breed.\\nTips\\nSome difficult-to-get dragons may act as \\\"wild cards,\\\" so you might have a small chance of getting a Pure Dragon by breeding Mirror + Mirror, or Legendary + Crystal. These dragons are difficult to get on their own, though, so saving up to buy one is a much better method.\\nThere are six total legendary dragons, plus several more dragons that can only be obtained by breeding legendary dragons.\\nBreed the Mermaid (367)and Noble (1056) to get a pure dragon.\\nWarnings\\nThere are many out-of-date guides online that say you need to breed two legendary dragons together to make a Pure Dragon. This is no longer possible since the 2013 Law and War update.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"In old versions of Dragon City, Pure Dragons were the rarest of the rare, only obtainable by breeding two Legendary Dragons together and hoping for the right result. In the 2013 Law and War update, this system was turned upside down. Pure Dragons are now purchasable in the store after you reach a certain level, and can then be bred together for a small chance at one of the six Legendary Dragons. Pure Dragons can also be used to breed hybrid dragons such as Pure Electric, Pure Dark, and so on.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Getting Your First Pure Dragons\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Do not attempt to get this through breeding.\", \"描述\": \"Ever since the July 2013 Light and War update, it is not possible to get a 100% Pure Dragon in Dragon City through breeding. They are now much more common but must be purchased from the shop as described below.\\nIf you're looking for a challenge, try to breed a legendary dragon instead. Ever since the update, these are the rarest dragons in the game. Breeding two pure dragons together gives a moderate chance at a legend, so consider this method a stepping stone to the rarer dragon.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Reach level 34.\", \"描述\": \"This is the required level to see Pure Dragon show up as an option in the store.\\nIf you have gold to spare, keep building a farm and selling it for XP. The Huge Food Farm gives the most bang for your buck, if you can afford it. Be careful not to spend too much, since you'll also need plenty of gold to buy your pure dragon.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Get 15 million gold.\", \"描述\": \"(Note, In current version of Dragon city it costs 2.2 M for habitat and Dragon) Yes, this is how much a Pure Dragon will cost you. If this seems like an impossible amount, try building and upgrading as many farms as you can. This will pay out in the long run.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Purchase the Pure Dragon.\", \"描述\": \"Visit the build menu's dragon store and purchase your first Pure Dragon. Many players call this the \\\"Pure Unicorn\\\" due to its original horned appearance, but it will be labeled as a Pure Dragon.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Breeding Pure Dragons to Make New Dragon Types\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Breed with other single-element dragons to make hybrids.\", \"描述\": \"In almost every case, breeding a Pure Dragon with another \\\"generation 1\\\" dragon has only one possible result, a hybrid of the two types. For example, a Pure and a Dark Dragon breeding together will always make a Pure Dark dragon.\\nTwo of these hybrids have special names. Breeding Pure with War makes a \\\"Kratos Dragon\\\" and breeding Pure with an Archangel (Light) makes a \\\"Zen Dragon.\\\"\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Breed special dragons.\", \"描述\": \"There are three special dragons in the game that can be bred from Pure ancestry:\\nBreed a level 15+ Pure Dragon with a level 15+ Terra Dragon to get an Ivory Dragon.\\nBreed any dragon with a Pure element along with any dragon with a Light element in a level 7+ Sanctuary for a chance at a Core Dragon. Some unusual combinations involving Sea elements will also work.\\nBreed any dragon with a Pure element along with any dragon with a Flame element in a level 8 Sanctuary for a chance at a Basilisk Dragon.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Breed two Pure Dragons for a chance at a legendary.\", \"描述\": \"Any time two dragons with a Pure element are bred together, there's a 6% chance that one of the Legendary dragons shows up. If you're trying to maximize your chances of getting a Legendary dragon, breeding two plain Pure Dragons together is your best bet, since each attempt will take 12 hours of waiting. Other combinations will take a longer time on average, and still only have a 6% chance.\\nThe downside of this strategy is that you'll end up with another Pure Dragon 94% of the time. If you'd rather get new, exciting dragons, just keep breeding combinations of dragons that both include Pure elements, for instance, Kratos Dragon + Pure Dark Dragon. You'll have to wait longer on average each time, but when you fail to get a Legendary you might end up with a cool new dragon.\\nIf you only have one Pure Dragon, instead keep breeding a Pure Flame and a Pure Terra Dragon together, until you get either a Legendary dragon or a second Pure Dragon to breed.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Some difficult-to-get dragons may act as \\\"wild cards,\\\" so you might have a small chance of getting a Pure Dragon by breeding Mirror + Mirror, or Legendary + Crystal. These dragons are difficult to get on their own, though, so saving up to buy one is a much better method.\\n\", \"There are six total legendary dragons, plus several more dragons that can only be obtained by breeding legendary dragons.\\n\", \"Breed the Mermaid (367)and Noble (1056) to get a pure dragon.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"There are many out-of-date guides online that say you need to breed two legendary dragons together to make a Pure Dragon. This is no longer possible since the 2013 Law and War update.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
6,968 |
How to Breed a Seasonal Dragon in DragonVale
|
1. Steps
1-1. Go to your breeding cave or the epic breeding island.
Your park needs to be at level 14 or higher before trying to breed this dragon.
1-2. Pair two compatible dragons.
A seasonal dragon can result from a variety of combinations containing the elements of air, fire and plant. Some suggestions for possible combinations include:
Blazing dragon with a plant dragon
Firework dragon with a plant dragon
Flower dragon with an air dragon
Poison dragon with an air dragon
1-3. Wait 48 hours for breeding.
The egg color will be a swirl of red, blue, purple and green.
Breeding time can be hastened by spending gems.
1-4. Put the egg into nursery and wait another 48 hours until it hatches.
1-5. Place the seasonal dragon in a seasonal habitat.
To help it grow, feed it the same food as all baby dragons.
Tips
At level 10, this dragon will earn 316 coins per minute. (This is without boosts.)
You may need to try lots of different combinations before you get the seasonal dragon.
As with all dragon breeding, it may take a few attempts to get this dragon. Just keep trying.
Warnings
If breeding an adult seasonal dragon, be aware that it may only be paired with another seasonal dragon.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:58:42",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Go to your breeding cave or the epic breeding island.\\nYour park needs to be at level 14 or higher before trying to breed this dragon.\\n1-2. Pair two compatible dragons.\\nA seasonal dragon can result from a variety of combinations containing the elements of air, fire and plant. Some suggestions for possible combinations include:\\nBlazing dragon with a plant dragon\\nFirework dragon with a plant dragon\\nFlower dragon with an air dragon\\nPoison dragon with an air dragon\\n1-3. Wait 48 hours for breeding.\\nThe egg color will be a swirl of red, blue, purple and green.\\nBreeding time can be hastened by spending gems.\\n1-4. Put the egg into nursery and wait another 48 hours until it hatches.\\n\\n1-5. Place the seasonal dragon in a seasonal habitat.\\nTo help it grow, feed it the same food as all baby dragons.\\nTips\\nAt level 10, this dragon will earn 316 coins per minute. (This is without boosts.)\\nYou may need to try lots of different combinations before you get the seasonal dragon.\\nAs with all dragon breeding, it may take a few attempts to get this dragon. Just keep trying.\\nWarnings\\nIf breeding an adult seasonal dragon, be aware that it may only be paired with another seasonal dragon.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"The seasonal dragon is an epic dragon that resides in a seasonal habitat. It is currently the only dragon to change colors, along with its habitat, according to seasonal changes. Its elements are fire, air and plant. Here are some suggestions on how to breed a seasonal dragon in DragonVale.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Go to your breeding cave or the epic breeding island.\", \"描述\": \"Your park needs to be at level 14 or higher before trying to breed this dragon.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Pair two compatible dragons.\", \"描述\": \"A seasonal dragon can result from a variety of combinations containing the elements of air, fire and plant. Some suggestions for possible combinations include:\\nBlazing dragon with a plant dragon\\nFirework dragon with a plant dragon\\nFlower dragon with an air dragon\\nPoison dragon with an air dragon\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Wait 48 hours for breeding.\", \"描述\": \"The egg color will be a swirl of red, blue, purple and green.\\nBreeding time can be hastened by spending gems.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Put the egg into nursery and wait another 48 hours until it hatches.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Place the seasonal dragon in a seasonal habitat.\", \"描述\": \"To help it grow, feed it the same food as all baby dragons.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"At level 10, this dragon will earn 316 coins per minute. (This is without boosts.)\\n\", \"You may need to try lots of different combinations before you get the seasonal dragon.\\n\", \"As with all dragon breeding, it may take a few attempts to get this dragon. Just keep trying.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"If breeding an adult seasonal dragon, be aware that it may only be paired with another seasonal dragon.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
6,969 |
How to Breed a Shugabush on My Singing Monsters
|
1. Steps
1-1. Reach level 9.
The Shugabush only becomes available when you’ve reached level nine. Your current level status is displayed at the top left corner of your screen.
If you’re not at level nine, tap on “Goals” and complete the list of required goals. The game will automatically bump you to level nine after you’ve completed the necessary goals, such as buying breeding structures or monsters.
1-2. Go to the Plant Island.
You can only breed a Shugabush on Plant Island.
1-3. Tap on the Breeding Structure.
The Breeding Structure is available when you reach level 7. It can be purchased in Structures for 200 gold.
1-4. Tap Breed.
It's in the lower-right corner of the screen. This icon appears when you tap the Breeding Structure.
1-5. Select the Bowgart from one of the columns.
There are two columns that you use to select monsters to breed. You can select a Bowgart monster from either column. It doesn't matter what level the monster you select is, but you may have better luck with higher level monsters.
You can obtain a Bowgart by breeding two monsters that make up the Plant, Water, and Cold elements. Examples of monster pairings that can successfully breed the Bowgart are Potbelly + Maw, Mammott + Oaktopus, and Toe Jammer + Furcorn. Alternately, you can purchase the Bowgart from the Market for 50 diamonds.
1-6. Select a Clamble from the other column.
Select a Clamble from the opposite column you select the Bowgart from. A Bowgart and Clamble is the only monster pairing that will successfully breed and produce the Shugabush. It doesn't matter what level the monster you select is, but you may have better luck with higher level monsters.
You can obtain the Clamble by breeding two monsters that make up the Plant, Earth, and Cold elements. Examples of monster pairings that can successfully breed the Clamble are Potbelly + Drumpler, Noggin + Furcorn, and Mammott + Shrubb. Alternately, you can purchase the Clamble from the Market for 50 diamonds.
1-7. Tap Breed.
It's at the bottom of the screen after selecting your monsters. The breeding structure will begin flashing to indicate that the Bowgart and Clamble are now breeding. The breeding period for the Shugabush lasts 35 hours. After the breeding period has ended, the Shugabush egg will be relocated to the Nursery and ready to hatch.
The Shugabush is a legendary monster which makes it hard to obtain. You will likely have to retry several times before you get a Shugabush through breeding. To increase your chances, you can purchase Wishing Torches from Structures and have your friends visit your island and light them. You can also light them yourself for 2 diamonds.
Alternatively, you can purchase a Shugabush for 200 diamonds from the Market if you don't feel like breeding and waiting for a Shugabush.
1-8. Wait for the breeding period to end.
The breeding time for a Shugabush is 35 hours. The Shugabush egg will be waiting for you at the Nursery when the time is over.
To skip breeding and obtain the Shugabush immediately, select the option to pay 35 diamonds. You will then have the option to sell the Shugabush, or place it on an island.
1-9. Tap on the Nursery.
You’ll receive a notification informing you that the Shugabush egg has hatched. You can now sell the Shugabush, or select the option to place the Shugabush at the Plant Island, Gold Island, or Shugabush Island.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:58:42",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Reach level 9.\\nThe Shugabush only becomes available when you’ve reached level nine. Your current level status is displayed at the top left corner of your screen.\\nIf you’re not at level nine, tap on “Goals” and complete the list of required goals. The game will automatically bump you to level nine after you’ve completed the necessary goals, such as buying breeding structures or monsters.\\n1-2. Go to the Plant Island.\\nYou can only breed a Shugabush on Plant Island.\\n1-3. Tap on the Breeding Structure.\\nThe Breeding Structure is available when you reach level 7. It can be purchased in Structures for 200 gold.\\n1-4. Tap Breed.\\nIt's in the lower-right corner of the screen. This icon appears when you tap the Breeding Structure.\\n1-5. Select the Bowgart from one of the columns.\\nThere are two columns that you use to select monsters to breed. You can select a Bowgart monster from either column. It doesn't matter what level the monster you select is, but you may have better luck with higher level monsters.\\nYou can obtain a Bowgart by breeding two monsters that make up the Plant, Water, and Cold elements. Examples of monster pairings that can successfully breed the Bowgart are Potbelly + Maw, Mammott + Oaktopus, and Toe Jammer + Furcorn. Alternately, you can purchase the Bowgart from the Market for 50 diamonds.\\n1-6. Select a Clamble from the other column.\\nSelect a Clamble from the opposite column you select the Bowgart from. A Bowgart and Clamble is the only monster pairing that will successfully breed and produce the Shugabush. It doesn't matter what level the monster you select is, but you may have better luck with higher level monsters.\\nYou can obtain the Clamble by breeding two monsters that make up the Plant, Earth, and Cold elements. Examples of monster pairings that can successfully breed the Clamble are Potbelly + Drumpler, Noggin + Furcorn, and Mammott + Shrubb. Alternately, you can purchase the Clamble from the Market for 50 diamonds.\\n1-7. Tap Breed.\\nIt's at the bottom of the screen after selecting your monsters. The breeding structure will begin flashing to indicate that the Bowgart and Clamble are now breeding. The breeding period for the Shugabush lasts 35 hours. After the breeding period has ended, the Shugabush egg will be relocated to the Nursery and ready to hatch.\\n\\n The Shugabush is a legendary monster which makes it hard to obtain. You will likely have to retry several times before you get a Shugabush through breeding. To increase your chances, you can purchase Wishing Torches from Structures and have your friends visit your island and light them. You can also light them yourself for 2 diamonds.\\nAlternatively, you can purchase a Shugabush for 200 diamonds from the Market if you don't feel like breeding and waiting for a Shugabush.\\n1-8. Wait for the breeding period to end.\\nThe breeding time for a Shugabush is 35 hours. The Shugabush egg will be waiting for you at the Nursery when the time is over.\\nTo skip breeding and obtain the Shugabush immediately, select the option to pay 35 diamonds. You will then have the option to sell the Shugabush, or place it on an island.\\n1-9. Tap on the Nursery.\\nYou’ll receive a notification informing you that the Shugabush egg has hatched. You can now sell the Shugabush, or select the option to place the Shugabush at the Plant Island, Gold Island, or Shugabush Island.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"The Shugabush is the first legendary monster introduced in My Singing Monsters. It is a green, human-like monster that wears a fedora, plays a mandolin, and occasionally sings in a style similar to that of real-life singer Kristian Bush from the band Sugarland. The Shugabush is available starting at level nine in My Singing Monsters. This wikiHow teaches you how to obtain a Shugabush through breeding.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Reach level 9.\", \"描述\": \"The Shugabush only becomes available when you’ve reached level nine. Your current level status is displayed at the top left corner of your screen.\\nIf you’re not at level nine, tap on “Goals” and complete the list of required goals. The game will automatically bump you to level nine after you’ve completed the necessary goals, such as buying breeding structures or monsters.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Go to the Plant Island.\", \"描述\": \"You can only breed a Shugabush on Plant Island.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Tap on the Breeding Structure.\", \"描述\": \"The Breeding Structure is available when you reach level 7. It can be purchased in Structures for 200 gold.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Tap Breed.\", \"描述\": \"It's in the lower-right corner of the screen. This icon appears when you tap the Breeding Structure.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Select the Bowgart from one of the columns.\", \"描述\": \"There are two columns that you use to select monsters to breed. You can select a Bowgart monster from either column. It doesn't matter what level the monster you select is, but you may have better luck with higher level monsters.\\nYou can obtain a Bowgart by breeding two monsters that make up the Plant, Water, and Cold elements. Examples of monster pairings that can successfully breed the Bowgart are Potbelly + Maw, Mammott + Oaktopus, and Toe Jammer + Furcorn. Alternately, you can purchase the Bowgart from the Market for 50 diamonds.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Select a Clamble from the other column.\", \"描述\": \"Select a Clamble from the opposite column you select the Bowgart from. A Bowgart and Clamble is the only monster pairing that will successfully breed and produce the Shugabush. It doesn't matter what level the monster you select is, but you may have better luck with higher level monsters.\\nYou can obtain the Clamble by breeding two monsters that make up the Plant, Earth, and Cold elements. Examples of monster pairings that can successfully breed the Clamble are Potbelly + Drumpler, Noggin + Furcorn, and Mammott + Shrubb. Alternately, you can purchase the Clamble from the Market for 50 diamonds.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Tap Breed.\", \"描述\": \"It's at the bottom of the screen after selecting your monsters. The breeding structure will begin flashing to indicate that the Bowgart and Clamble are now breeding. The breeding period for the Shugabush lasts 35 hours. After the breeding period has ended, the Shugabush egg will be relocated to the Nursery and ready to hatch.\\n\\n The Shugabush is a legendary monster which makes it hard to obtain. You will likely have to retry several times before you get a Shugabush through breeding. To increase your chances, you can purchase Wishing Torches from Structures and have your friends visit your island and light them. You can also light them yourself for 2 diamonds.\\nAlternatively, you can purchase a Shugabush for 200 diamonds from the Market if you don't feel like breeding and waiting for a Shugabush.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Wait for the breeding period to end.\", \"描述\": \"The breeding time for a Shugabush is 35 hours. The Shugabush egg will be waiting for you at the Nursery when the time is over.\\nTo skip breeding and obtain the Shugabush immediately, select the option to pay 35 diamonds. You will then have the option to sell the Shugabush, or place it on an island.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Tap on the Nursery.\", \"描述\": \"You’ll receive a notification informing you that the Shugabush egg has hatched. You can now sell the Shugabush, or select the option to place the Shugabush at the Plant Island, Gold Island, or Shugabush Island.\"}]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
6,970 |
How to Breed a Sun Dragon in DragonVale
|
1. Steps
1-1. Go to your breeding cave or the epic breeding island.
Your park needs to be at level 10 or higher before trying to breed this dragon. Tap on the breeding area to make it glow.
1-2. For a successful outcome, the elements of cold and lightning need to be present, and as such, there are numerous possible combinations of breeding pairs.
Some suggestions for the many possible combinations include:
Firefly dragon with a cold dragon
Blue fire dragon with a crystal dragon
Ice dragon with a quake dragon
Cold dragon with a storm dragon
Fire dragon with a storm dragon
Scorch dragon with a cold dragon.
1-3. Wait 48 hours for breeding.
The egg color will be gold with a sun icon in the middle.
Breeding time can be hastened by spending gems.
1-4. Put the egg into nursery and wait another 48 hours until it hatches.
1-5. Place the sun dragon in a sun habitat.
To help it grow, feed it the same food as all baby dragons.
Tips
As with all dragon breeding, it may take a few attempts to get this dragon. Just keep trying.
At level 1, this dragon will earn 40 coins per minute. At level 10, it will earn 261 coins per minute.
Sun dragons can be purchased in the market for 2,000 gems.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:58:42",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Go to your breeding cave or the epic breeding island.\\nYour park needs to be at level 10 or higher before trying to breed this dragon. Tap on the breeding area to make it glow.\\n1-2. For a successful outcome, the elements of cold and lightning need to be present, and as such, there are numerous possible combinations of breeding pairs.\\nSome suggestions for the many possible combinations include:\\nFirefly dragon with a cold dragon\\nBlue fire dragon with a crystal dragon\\nIce dragon with a quake dragon\\nCold dragon with a storm dragon\\nFire dragon with a storm dragon\\nScorch dragon with a cold dragon.\\n1-3. Wait 48 hours for breeding.\\nThe egg color will be gold with a sun icon in the middle.\\nBreeding time can be hastened by spending gems.\\n1-4. Put the egg into nursery and wait another 48 hours until it hatches.\\n\\n1-5. Place the sun dragon in a sun habitat.\\nTo help it grow, feed it the same food as all baby dragons.\\nTips\\nAs with all dragon breeding, it may take a few attempts to get this dragon. Just keep trying.\\nAt level 1, this dragon will earn 40 coins per minute. At level 10, it will earn 261 coins per minute.\\nSun dragons can be purchased in the market for 2,000 gems.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"The sun dragon is an epic dragon in DragonVale. It can be obtained by combining lightning and cold.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Go to your breeding cave or the epic breeding island.\", \"描述\": \"Your park needs to be at level 10 or higher before trying to breed this dragon. Tap on the breeding area to make it glow.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"For a successful outcome, the elements of cold and lightning need to be present, and as such, there are numerous possible combinations of breeding pairs.\", \"描述\": \"Some suggestions for the many possible combinations include:\\nFirefly dragon with a cold dragon\\nBlue fire dragon with a crystal dragon\\nIce dragon with a quake dragon\\nCold dragon with a storm dragon\\nFire dragon with a storm dragon\\nScorch dragon with a cold dragon.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Wait 48 hours for breeding.\", \"描述\": \"The egg color will be gold with a sun icon in the middle.\\nBreeding time can be hastened by spending gems.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Put the egg into nursery and wait another 48 hours until it hatches.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Place the sun dragon in a sun habitat.\", \"描述\": \"To help it grow, feed it the same food as all baby dragons.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"As with all dragon breeding, it may take a few attempts to get this dragon. Just keep trying.\\n\", \"At level 1, this dragon will earn 40 coins per minute. At level 10, it will earn 261 coins per minute.\\n\", \"Sun dragons can be purchased in the market for 2,000 gems.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
6,971 |
How to Breed and Care for Platies
|
1. Setting up a Tank
1-1. Get an aquarium tank that holds at least 29 gallons (110 L).
Although platy fish don't require a lot of space, it's a good idea to get a bigger tank than you need if you plan on breeding them. That way, as your platy fish start to reproduce and the fry grow into adults, your tank won't get overcrowded. With a tank that's at least 29 gallons (110 L), you'll be able to breed your fish and take your time finding new homes for the adults without the tank getting too crowded.
You can find a large aquarium tank online or at your local pet store.
Make sure the tank you get has a secure lid on it since platy fish can jump.
An overcrowded tank can make your fish stressed and more prone to fighting.
1-2. Line the bottom of the tank with aquarium gravel for a fish-friendly substrate.
Not only will a substrate make your aquarium look better and more natural, it will also provide a surface for beneficial bacteria to grow on in the tank. For your platy fish, you can use any kind of aquarium gravel for substrate, but make sure it's clean before adding it to the tank so your fish don't get sick.
To clean your aquarium gravel, rinse it in a sieve over a bucket until the water straining through the sieve runs clear.
You can find aquarium gravel online or at your local pet store.
1-3. Add plants and hiding places to the tank so your platy fish have shelter.
Providing shelter is especially important when you're breeding platy fish since the young fry will need places to hide from the adults. Without enough shelter, the young fry may be eaten by your older fish. Also, your adult platy fish will enjoy having some sheltered resting places as well.
Try to use live aquarium plants to replicate the platy fishes' natural environment.
Include floating plants in the tank, which make great hiding places for young fry.
You can purchase plastic aquarium shelters, like small plastic caves or hollowed-out logs, online or at your local pet store.
1-4. Set up an air-powered sponge filter in the tank to clean and aerate the water.
Without a filter, the water in the aquarium will become stagnant and dirty, and there won't be enough oxygen for your platy fish to survive. However, make sure you use an air-powered sponge filter since other types of aquarium filters can suck up and kill small fry.
You can purchase an air-powered sponge filter at your local pet store, or you can order one online.
1-5. Keep the tank water at 70–77 °F (21–25 °C).
This is the ideal temperature range for platy fish. Attach a thermometer to the inside of the aquarium so you can monitor the temperature and make adjustments if necessary. While it shouldn't be difficult to keep the water in the tank within this temperature range, you may need to use a heater if the water is too cold.
You can purchase both submersible and hang-on aquarium water heaters online or at your local pet store. Keep in mind that the larger your aquarium, the stronger of a heater you'll need.
For a 29 US gal (110 L) aquarium, you'll need a heater that's between 75 and 200 watts. The colder the room that your aquarium is in, the more watts you'll need.
If you're worried about the water in the tank being too hot, you can buy an aquarium chiller to lower the water temperature.
1-6. Cycle the water in the aquarium
Cycling an aquarium is the process of starting a natural nitrogen cycle in the tank, which helps filter out harmful ammonia that kills fish. You can cycle your tank by introducing platy fish to it (the fish will kickstart the biological process), but you should only add 1 fish for every 2–3 gallons (7.6–11.4 L) of water. Then, once the tank has cycled after about 6 weeks, you can add the rest of your platy fish.
For example, if you're using a 29 US gal (110 L) tank, you would introduce 10-14 platy fish into the tank at first. Then, after around 6 weeks, you could add more fish to the tank since the water would be safe enough at that point.
Adding too many platy fish before the tank has cycled can put stress on the fishes' bodies and potentially cause them to die.
1-7. Maintain a 1:3 ratio of male fish to female fish to avoid potential problems.
If there are too many male fish in the tank, they might start to fight over the females. Also, an abundance of male fish can stress out your female platy fish, so it's a good idea to have 3 females for every 1 male.
Determine the sex of your platy fish when you're buying them and before adding them to your tank since it will be easier than doing it after they're all swimming around in the aquarium together.
2. Caring for Your Platy Fish
2-1. Use commercial fish food for the majority of your platy fishes' diet.
In the wild, platy fish eat live organisms, like worms, insects, and crustaceans, as well as some plant matter. However, in captivity, platy fish thrive on mostly commercial fish flakes or pellets. Make sure this kind of food makes up the majority of what you're feeding your fish every day.
You can find commercial fish food for your platy fish online or at your local pet store.
2-2. Supplement your fishes' diet with occasional meat- and vegetable-based foods.
In addition to commercial fish food, you can give your platy fish small amounts of meat and vegetables with their daily feedings. Just make sure these foods aren't making up the majority of their diet.
For meat-based foods, try live or frozen brine shrimp, tubifex, or blood worms.
For vegetables, try zucchini, broccoli florets, or cauliflower. Just make sure you use organic vegetables and wash them thoroughly before adding them to the tank.
2-3. Feed your fish a small amount of food several times a day.
When you feed your platy fish, give them about as much food as they can eat within 3 minutes. If your fish aren't finishing all of the food you give them within 3 minutes, cut back on how much you're giving them at each feeding. Too much uneaten food in the tank can dirty the water and make your platy fish sick.
For example, in the morning, you could feed your platy fish as much commercial fish food (and a little meat and vegetables) as they can eat within 3 minutes. Then, you could feed them the same amount again at lunch and again at dinner.
2-4. Replace 25% of the water
Replacing a quarter of the water regularly will prevent the build-up of toxins that could make your platy fish sick. It will also prevent pH changes that aren't good for platy fish. Never replace all of the water at once since it will ruin the natural nitrogen cycle that you started in the tank when you cycled it.
For example, if you have a 29 US gal (110 L) tank, you would replace a little more than 7 gallons (26 L) of water every 2-4 weeks.
Keep in mind that the more platy fish you have, the more often you should change out the water. If you have a lot of fish for the size of your aquarium, you may want to replace the water every 2 weeks, whereas if you don't have that many platy fish in your tank, you can probably get away with replacing the water once a month.
3. Breeding Platy Fish
3-1. Wait for your platy fish to start breeding after introducing them to the aquarium.
Platy fish are relatively easy to breed, and they don't require a lot of encouragement. As long as you introduced both male and female platy fish to the tank, they should start breeding in a short amount of time.
If your platy fish don't seem to be breeding, make sure you have both male and female fish in the tank. Also, make sure your fish are healthy and that you're feeding and caring for them properly since unhealthy platy fish might not breed.
3-2. Check female fish for a dark spot to determine if they're pregnant.
Female platy fish will develop a dark spot on their abdomen when they're pregnant. Try to get in the habit of checking your female platy fish daily for these dark spots. Then, if you discover that one of them is pregnant, write down the date so you're able to keep track of how long it's been pregnant for.
3-3. Wait 24-30 days for pregnant platy fish to give birth.
This is the average gestation period for platy fish. If you wrote down when you first noticed your platy fish was pregnant, the fry should be born about 24-30 days from that date.
If you're not keeping track of when your female platy fish get pregnant, it can be hard to estimate when they're going to give birth. However, it will always be within 30 days of when you notice they're pregnant.
Don't worry about doing anything special for your pregnant platy fish during their pregnancy or when they give birth. As long as you're feeding and caring for them properly, the pregnancy should go smoothly.
3-4. Separate the fry
If you've provided enough hiding places in the aquarium, like shelters and floating plants, most of the fry should be able to hide from the adults as they grow. However, if you don't want any of the fry to be eaten, you may want to transfer them to a new tank or set up a breeding trap in the tank to keep them separated.
You can move the mother to a separate tank before it gives birth, or you can separate the fry after.
To move the fry, use a fishing net to scoop them out of the tank and transfer them to a new one. Depending on where the fry are hiding, you may need to scoop up a shelter or floating plant in order to catch them.
3-5. Feed the fry commercial baby fish food and baby brine shrimp.
Baby fish food usually consists of pulverized flakes that are easy for the small fry to eat. You should also supplement their diet with baby brine shrimp, similar to how you supplement your adult platy fishes' diet.
Feed the fry in small amounts several times a day like you do with your adult platy fish.
3-6. Sell or giveaway your platy fish as you breed them, or move them to a new tank.
Since platy fish can quickly overpopulate an aquarium, it's important that you have a plan in place for what to do with the fry as they grow and mature. Platy fish fry reach sexual maturity at 4 months of age, so you'll either want to give them to someone else or move them to their own tank before they reach 4 months. Otherwise, your tank will quickly become overcrowded, and your fish will suffer and get sick.
Consider selling your platy fish fry and turning it into a small side business. Or, you can give them to friends who are also aquarium enthusiasts.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:58:42",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Setting up a Tank\\n1-1. Get an aquarium tank that holds at least 29 gallons (110 L).\\nAlthough platy fish don't require a lot of space, it's a good idea to get a bigger tank than you need if you plan on breeding them. That way, as your platy fish start to reproduce and the fry grow into adults, your tank won't get overcrowded. With a tank that's at least 29 gallons (110 L), you'll be able to breed your fish and take your time finding new homes for the adults without the tank getting too crowded.\\nYou can find a large aquarium tank online or at your local pet store.\\nMake sure the tank you get has a secure lid on it since platy fish can jump.\\nAn overcrowded tank can make your fish stressed and more prone to fighting.\\n1-2. Line the bottom of the tank with aquarium gravel for a fish-friendly substrate.\\nNot only will a substrate make your aquarium look better and more natural, it will also provide a surface for beneficial bacteria to grow on in the tank. For your platy fish, you can use any kind of aquarium gravel for substrate, but make sure it's clean before adding it to the tank so your fish don't get sick.\\nTo clean your aquarium gravel, rinse it in a sieve over a bucket until the water straining through the sieve runs clear.\\nYou can find aquarium gravel online or at your local pet store.\\n1-3. Add plants and hiding places to the tank so your platy fish have shelter.\\nProviding shelter is especially important when you're breeding platy fish since the young fry will need places to hide from the adults. Without enough shelter, the young fry may be eaten by your older fish. Also, your adult platy fish will enjoy having some sheltered resting places as well.\\nTry to use live aquarium plants to replicate the platy fishes' natural environment.\\nInclude floating plants in the tank, which make great hiding places for young fry.\\nYou can purchase plastic aquarium shelters, like small plastic caves or hollowed-out logs, online or at your local pet store.\\n1-4. Set up an air-powered sponge filter in the tank to clean and aerate the water.\\nWithout a filter, the water in the aquarium will become stagnant and dirty, and there won't be enough oxygen for your platy fish to survive. However, make sure you use an air-powered sponge filter since other types of aquarium filters can suck up and kill small fry.\\nYou can purchase an air-powered sponge filter at your local pet store, or you can order one online.\\n1-5. Keep the tank water at 70–77 °F (21–25 °C).\\nThis is the ideal temperature range for platy fish. Attach a thermometer to the inside of the aquarium so you can monitor the temperature and make adjustments if necessary. While it shouldn't be difficult to keep the water in the tank within this temperature range, you may need to use a heater if the water is too cold.\\nYou can purchase both submersible and hang-on aquarium water heaters online or at your local pet store. Keep in mind that the larger your aquarium, the stronger of a heater you'll need.\\nFor a 29 US gal (110 L) aquarium, you'll need a heater that's between 75 and 200 watts. The colder the room that your aquarium is in, the more watts you'll need.\\nIf you're worried about the water in the tank being too hot, you can buy an aquarium chiller to lower the water temperature.\\n1-6. Cycle the water in the aquarium\\nCycling an aquarium is the process of starting a natural nitrogen cycle in the tank, which helps filter out harmful ammonia that kills fish. You can cycle your tank by introducing platy fish to it (the fish will kickstart the biological process), but you should only add 1 fish for every 2–3 gallons (7.6–11.4 L) of water. Then, once the tank has cycled after about 6 weeks, you can add the rest of your platy fish.\\nFor example, if you're using a 29 US gal (110 L) tank, you would introduce 10-14 platy fish into the tank at first. Then, after around 6 weeks, you could add more fish to the tank since the water would be safe enough at that point.\\nAdding too many platy fish before the tank has cycled can put stress on the fishes' bodies and potentially cause them to die.\\n1-7. Maintain a 1:3 ratio of male fish to female fish to avoid potential problems.\\nIf there are too many male fish in the tank, they might start to fight over the females. Also, an abundance of male fish can stress out your female platy fish, so it's a good idea to have 3 females for every 1 male.\\nDetermine the sex of your platy fish when you're buying them and before adding them to your tank since it will be easier than doing it after they're all swimming around in the aquarium together.\\n2. Caring for Your Platy Fish\\n2-1. Use commercial fish food for the majority of your platy fishes' diet.\\nIn the wild, platy fish eat live organisms, like worms, insects, and crustaceans, as well as some plant matter. However, in captivity, platy fish thrive on mostly commercial fish flakes or pellets. Make sure this kind of food makes up the majority of what you're feeding your fish every day.\\nYou can find commercial fish food for your platy fish online or at your local pet store.\\n2-2. Supplement your fishes' diet with occasional meat- and vegetable-based foods.\\nIn addition to commercial fish food, you can give your platy fish small amounts of meat and vegetables with their daily feedings. Just make sure these foods aren't making up the majority of their diet.\\nFor meat-based foods, try live or frozen brine shrimp, tubifex, or blood worms.\\nFor vegetables, try zucchini, broccoli florets, or cauliflower. Just make sure you use organic vegetables and wash them thoroughly before adding them to the tank.\\n2-3. Feed your fish a small amount of food several times a day.\\nWhen you feed your platy fish, give them about as much food as they can eat within 3 minutes. If your fish aren't finishing all of the food you give them within 3 minutes, cut back on how much you're giving them at each feeding. Too much uneaten food in the tank can dirty the water and make your platy fish sick.\\nFor example, in the morning, you could feed your platy fish as much commercial fish food (and a little meat and vegetables) as they can eat within 3 minutes. Then, you could feed them the same amount again at lunch and again at dinner.\\n2-4. Replace 25% of the water\\nReplacing a quarter of the water regularly will prevent the build-up of toxins that could make your platy fish sick. It will also prevent pH changes that aren't good for platy fish. Never replace all of the water at once since it will ruin the natural nitrogen cycle that you started in the tank when you cycled it.\\nFor example, if you have a 29 US gal (110 L) tank, you would replace a little more than 7 gallons (26 L) of water every 2-4 weeks.\\nKeep in mind that the more platy fish you have, the more often you should change out the water. If you have a lot of fish for the size of your aquarium, you may want to replace the water every 2 weeks, whereas if you don't have that many platy fish in your tank, you can probably get away with replacing the water once a month.\\n3. Breeding Platy Fish\\n3-1. Wait for your platy fish to start breeding after introducing them to the aquarium.\\nPlaty fish are relatively easy to breed, and they don't require a lot of encouragement. As long as you introduced both male and female platy fish to the tank, they should start breeding in a short amount of time.\\nIf your platy fish don't seem to be breeding, make sure you have both male and female fish in the tank. Also, make sure your fish are healthy and that you're feeding and caring for them properly since unhealthy platy fish might not breed.\\n3-2. Check female fish for a dark spot to determine if they're pregnant.\\nFemale platy fish will develop a dark spot on their abdomen when they're pregnant. Try to get in the habit of checking your female platy fish daily for these dark spots. Then, if you discover that one of them is pregnant, write down the date so you're able to keep track of how long it's been pregnant for.\\n3-3. Wait 24-30 days for pregnant platy fish to give birth.\\nThis is the average gestation period for platy fish. If you wrote down when you first noticed your platy fish was pregnant, the fry should be born about 24-30 days from that date.\\nIf you're not keeping track of when your female platy fish get pregnant, it can be hard to estimate when they're going to give birth. However, it will always be within 30 days of when you notice they're pregnant.\\nDon't worry about doing anything special for your pregnant platy fish during their pregnancy or when they give birth. As long as you're feeding and caring for them properly, the pregnancy should go smoothly.\\n3-4. Separate the fry\\nIf you've provided enough hiding places in the aquarium, like shelters and floating plants, most of the fry should be able to hide from the adults as they grow. However, if you don't want any of the fry to be eaten, you may want to transfer them to a new tank or set up a breeding trap in the tank to keep them separated.\\nYou can move the mother to a separate tank before it gives birth, or you can separate the fry after.\\nTo move the fry, use a fishing net to scoop them out of the tank and transfer them to a new one. Depending on where the fry are hiding, you may need to scoop up a shelter or floating plant in order to catch them.\\n3-5. Feed the fry commercial baby fish food and baby brine shrimp.\\nBaby fish food usually consists of pulverized flakes that are easy for the small fry to eat. You should also supplement their diet with baby brine shrimp, similar to how you supplement your adult platy fishes' diet.\\nFeed the fry in small amounts several times a day like you do with your adult platy fish.\\n3-6. Sell or giveaway your platy fish as you breed them, or move them to a new tank.\\nSince platy fish can quickly overpopulate an aquarium, it's important that you have a plan in place for what to do with the fry as they grow and mature. Platy fish fry reach sexual maturity at 4 months of age, so you'll either want to give them to someone else or move them to their own tank before they reach 4 months. Otherwise, your tank will quickly become overcrowded, and your fish will suffer and get sick.\\nConsider selling your platy fish fry and turning it into a small side business. Or, you can give them to friends who are also aquarium enthusiasts.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Platy fish are easy to care for and relatively hardy, making them great fish for beginners. Unlike most fish, platy fish are actually livebearers, meaning they give birth to live fry. If you're interested in raising and breeding platy fish, all you need to do is establish a suitable habitat and feed and care for your fish properly. Once your fish are settled into their new aquarium, they'll quickly start breeding and producing fry.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Setting up a Tank\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Get an aquarium tank that holds at least 29 gallons (110 L).\", \"描述\": \"Although platy fish don't require a lot of space, it's a good idea to get a bigger tank than you need if you plan on breeding them. That way, as your platy fish start to reproduce and the fry grow into adults, your tank won't get overcrowded. With a tank that's at least 29 gallons (110 L), you'll be able to breed your fish and take your time finding new homes for the adults without the tank getting too crowded.\\nYou can find a large aquarium tank online or at your local pet store.\\nMake sure the tank you get has a secure lid on it since platy fish can jump.\\nAn overcrowded tank can make your fish stressed and more prone to fighting.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Line the bottom of the tank with aquarium gravel for a fish-friendly substrate.\", \"描述\": \"Not only will a substrate make your aquarium look better and more natural, it will also provide a surface for beneficial bacteria to grow on in the tank. For your platy fish, you can use any kind of aquarium gravel for substrate, but make sure it's clean before adding it to the tank so your fish don't get sick.\\nTo clean your aquarium gravel, rinse it in a sieve over a bucket until the water straining through the sieve runs clear.\\nYou can find aquarium gravel online or at your local pet store.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Add plants and hiding places to the tank so your platy fish have shelter.\", \"描述\": \"Providing shelter is especially important when you're breeding platy fish since the young fry will need places to hide from the adults. Without enough shelter, the young fry may be eaten by your older fish. Also, your adult platy fish will enjoy having some sheltered resting places as well.\\nTry to use live aquarium plants to replicate the platy fishes' natural environment.\\nInclude floating plants in the tank, which make great hiding places for young fry.\\nYou can purchase plastic aquarium shelters, like small plastic caves or hollowed-out logs, online or at your local pet store.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Set up an air-powered sponge filter in the tank to clean and aerate the water.\", \"描述\": \"Without a filter, the water in the aquarium will become stagnant and dirty, and there won't be enough oxygen for your platy fish to survive. However, make sure you use an air-powered sponge filter since other types of aquarium filters can suck up and kill small fry.\\nYou can purchase an air-powered sponge filter at your local pet store, or you can order one online.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Keep the tank water at 70–77 °F (21–25 °C).\", \"描述\": \"This is the ideal temperature range for platy fish. Attach a thermometer to the inside of the aquarium so you can monitor the temperature and make adjustments if necessary. While it shouldn't be difficult to keep the water in the tank within this temperature range, you may need to use a heater if the water is too cold.\\nYou can purchase both submersible and hang-on aquarium water heaters online or at your local pet store. Keep in mind that the larger your aquarium, the stronger of a heater you'll need.\\nFor a 29 US gal (110 L) aquarium, you'll need a heater that's between 75 and 200 watts. The colder the room that your aquarium is in, the more watts you'll need.\\nIf you're worried about the water in the tank being too hot, you can buy an aquarium chiller to lower the water temperature.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Cycle the water in the aquarium\", \"描述\": \"Cycling an aquarium is the process of starting a natural nitrogen cycle in the tank, which helps filter out harmful ammonia that kills fish. You can cycle your tank by introducing platy fish to it (the fish will kickstart the biological process), but you should only add 1 fish for every 2–3 gallons (7.6–11.4 L) of water. Then, once the tank has cycled after about 6 weeks, you can add the rest of your platy fish.\\nFor example, if you're using a 29 US gal (110 L) tank, you would introduce 10-14 platy fish into the tank at first. Then, after around 6 weeks, you could add more fish to the tank since the water would be safe enough at that point.\\nAdding too many platy fish before the tank has cycled can put stress on the fishes' bodies and potentially cause them to die.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Maintain a 1:3 ratio of male fish to female fish to avoid potential problems.\", \"描述\": \"If there are too many male fish in the tank, they might start to fight over the females. Also, an abundance of male fish can stress out your female platy fish, so it's a good idea to have 3 females for every 1 male.\\nDetermine the sex of your platy fish when you're buying them and before adding them to your tank since it will be easier than doing it after they're all swimming around in the aquarium together.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Caring for Your Platy Fish\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Use commercial fish food for the majority of your platy fishes' diet.\", \"描述\": \"In the wild, platy fish eat live organisms, like worms, insects, and crustaceans, as well as some plant matter. However, in captivity, platy fish thrive on mostly commercial fish flakes or pellets. Make sure this kind of food makes up the majority of what you're feeding your fish every day.\\nYou can find commercial fish food for your platy fish online or at your local pet store.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Supplement your fishes' diet with occasional meat- and vegetable-based foods.\", \"描述\": \"In addition to commercial fish food, you can give your platy fish small amounts of meat and vegetables with their daily feedings. Just make sure these foods aren't making up the majority of their diet.\\nFor meat-based foods, try live or frozen brine shrimp, tubifex, or blood worms.\\nFor vegetables, try zucchini, broccoli florets, or cauliflower. Just make sure you use organic vegetables and wash them thoroughly before adding them to the tank.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Feed your fish a small amount of food several times a day.\", \"描述\": \"When you feed your platy fish, give them about as much food as they can eat within 3 minutes. If your fish aren't finishing all of the food you give them within 3 minutes, cut back on how much you're giving them at each feeding. Too much uneaten food in the tank can dirty the water and make your platy fish sick.\\nFor example, in the morning, you could feed your platy fish as much commercial fish food (and a little meat and vegetables) as they can eat within 3 minutes. Then, you could feed them the same amount again at lunch and again at dinner.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Replace 25% of the water\", \"描述\": \"Replacing a quarter of the water regularly will prevent the build-up of toxins that could make your platy fish sick. It will also prevent pH changes that aren't good for platy fish. Never replace all of the water at once since it will ruin the natural nitrogen cycle that you started in the tank when you cycled it.\\nFor example, if you have a 29 US gal (110 L) tank, you would replace a little more than 7 gallons (26 L) of water every 2-4 weeks.\\nKeep in mind that the more platy fish you have, the more often you should change out the water. If you have a lot of fish for the size of your aquarium, you may want to replace the water every 2 weeks, whereas if you don't have that many platy fish in your tank, you can probably get away with replacing the water once a month.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Breeding Platy Fish\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Wait for your platy fish to start breeding after introducing them to the aquarium.\", \"描述\": \"Platy fish are relatively easy to breed, and they don't require a lot of encouragement. As long as you introduced both male and female platy fish to the tank, they should start breeding in a short amount of time.\\nIf your platy fish don't seem to be breeding, make sure you have both male and female fish in the tank. Also, make sure your fish are healthy and that you're feeding and caring for them properly since unhealthy platy fish might not breed.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Check female fish for a dark spot to determine if they're pregnant.\", \"描述\": \"Female platy fish will develop a dark spot on their abdomen when they're pregnant. Try to get in the habit of checking your female platy fish daily for these dark spots. Then, if you discover that one of them is pregnant, write down the date so you're able to keep track of how long it's been pregnant for.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Wait 24-30 days for pregnant platy fish to give birth.\", \"描述\": \"This is the average gestation period for platy fish. If you wrote down when you first noticed your platy fish was pregnant, the fry should be born about 24-30 days from that date.\\nIf you're not keeping track of when your female platy fish get pregnant, it can be hard to estimate when they're going to give birth. However, it will always be within 30 days of when you notice they're pregnant.\\nDon't worry about doing anything special for your pregnant platy fish during their pregnancy or when they give birth. As long as you're feeding and caring for them properly, the pregnancy should go smoothly.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Separate the fry\", \"描述\": \"If you've provided enough hiding places in the aquarium, like shelters and floating plants, most of the fry should be able to hide from the adults as they grow. However, if you don't want any of the fry to be eaten, you may want to transfer them to a new tank or set up a breeding trap in the tank to keep them separated.\\nYou can move the mother to a separate tank before it gives birth, or you can separate the fry after.\\nTo move the fry, use a fishing net to scoop them out of the tank and transfer them to a new one. Depending on where the fry are hiding, you may need to scoop up a shelter or floating plant in order to catch them.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Feed the fry commercial baby fish food and baby brine shrimp.\", \"描述\": \"Baby fish food usually consists of pulverized flakes that are easy for the small fry to eat. You should also supplement their diet with baby brine shrimp, similar to how you supplement your adult platy fishes' diet.\\nFeed the fry in small amounts several times a day like you do with your adult platy fish.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Sell or giveaway your platy fish as you breed them, or move them to a new tank.\", \"描述\": \"Since platy fish can quickly overpopulate an aquarium, it's important that you have a plan in place for what to do with the fry as they grow and mature. Platy fish fry reach sexual maturity at 4 months of age, so you'll either want to give them to someone else or move them to their own tank before they reach 4 months. Otherwise, your tank will quickly become overcrowded, and your fish will suffer and get sick.\\nConsider selling your platy fish fry and turning it into a small side business. Or, you can give them to friends who are also aquarium enthusiasts.\"}]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
6,972 |
How to Breed and Incubate Pheasants
|
1. Breeding Pheasants
1-1. Look up your pheasants' breeding season.
Pheasants breed in spring and summer, generally beginning in March in the Northern Hemisphere. Look up your specific pheasant species to find a more accurate start date. For best results, you should move the pheasants into their breeding pen about a month before the season begins.
1-2. Set up the breeding pens.
Pheasants thrive in large environments with plenty of brush cover. A space with an irregular shape works better than rectangular or round areas, as it provides more nooks and crannies for nesting hens. These factors are especially important if you plan to have the mother brood the eggs, but they are important even if you're only concerned about egg production.
The ideal environment includes fully grown trees and shrubs. If this is not feasible, provide stacks of cornstalks or other brush for hiding and nesting spots.
1-3. Decide on a male:female ratio.
A breeding pen typically has a ratio of seven or eight hens per rooster. Males will often fight during the breeding season, so lowering this ratio may be dangerous. If you have the space, dividing the pen into multiple breeding groups will reduce violence and broken eggs.
If a males dies or has to be removed, do not attempt to replace it during the breeding season. The remaining males may kill the intruder.
1-4. Provide calcium.
All egg-laying birds require a calcium source to produce strong eggs. Oyster shells, limestone grit, and other options are available at farming supply stores. Pheasants are able to manage their own calcium levels when provided with enough of the source, so the exact amount is not critical.
1-5. Install artificial lights (optional).
If you are running a commercial farm, artificial lights are recommended to increase egg production. Set these to an automatic timer to produce 15-hour days. Add the artificial light starting at sunset; sudden light before dawn may startle the pheasants.
1-6. Decide on an incubation method.
There are three ways to incubate the eggs:
Incubators: These machines are almost always used in commercial operations, as they can incubate many more eggs at once. They also allow precise control over the environment, which can greatly increase hatching percentage — at least once you've had some practice.
Pheasant hens: This is the cheaper option, and may be more fun for a backyard breeder who wants to watch pheasant behavior. However, as described below, this requires plenty of space and vegetation. Brooding halts egg production, so you will end up with fewer fertilized eggs than the incubation method.
Hens of other species: Even in good conditions, some pheasant species or individual hens will fail to raise the eggs. You may use domestic fowl to brood their eggs, but there is a risk of disease transfer or poor mothering once hatched.
Note — One efficient way to handle this is to allow the pheasant hen to brood for 7–10 days. Take the eggs to the incubator, then allow the hen to lay a second clutch and raise it herself.
2. Hatching Eggs in an Incubator
2-1. Purchase an incubator.
There are a wide range of incubators available, costing anywhere from one hundred to several thousand US dollars. Choosing a model is beyond the scope of this guide, but these basics can inform your decision:
Forced-draught incubators have better ventilation systems and are generally easier to manage. However, some studies suggest that the more labor-intensive still air incubators get better results for pheasant eggs.
Read the manual before buying if possible. If installed incorrectly or in the wrong environment, the incubator may overheat.
2-2. Review incubator basics
If you've never used an incubator before, read our detailed guide to the general process. This includes important setup and sanitation information before you get started. Return to this guide to find information specific to pheasant incubation.
Start this at least a week in advance. Leaving incubator on this long will allow it to reach a steady temp and humidity before eggs are introduced.
2-3. Collect eggs daily.
If the pheasant hens are not sitting on the eggs, collect them every morning, and perhaps again later in the day. Eggs left out are vulnerable to heat damage and predation.
2-4. Store eggs until ready to incubate.
If your incubator is not ready yet, store the eggs in a tray of clean sand, with the pointed end tilted downward at a 45º angle Measure humidity and temperature daily, keeping the area as close to 55ºF (12.7ºC) and 65–70% relative humidity as possible. Even a change of 5ºF (change of 2.8ºC) can make an additional 10% of the eggs unviable.
Rotate each egg once a day. Mark two opposite sides of the egg with an X and an O to help you keep track, using a pencil or felt-tipped pen.
Move on to incubation as soon as you can, and always within 11 days of collection.
2-5. Candle the eggs (optional)
A bright light can reveal signs of healthy development or failure. If you have limited space in your incubator, perform this test to determine which eggs you can discard. Place the remaining eggs inside the incubator.
Do not expose eggs to the light for too long, as the heat can cause damage.
You may perform this test periodically while the eggs are being incubated, but try to minimize handling.
2-6. Track temperature daily.
For pheasants, a forced-draught incubator should be kept as close as possible to 100ºF (37.8ºC), and still air incubators at 102–103ºF (38.9–39.4ºC). Place the thermometer ½ inch (1.2cm) above the top of the eggs, and check it daily.
The right temperature is vital to the eggs' development. Keep a master thermometer (accurate within 0.18ºF / 0.1ºC) in a cool place where it will not be jarred. At least once a year, compare your daily thermometer to the master and replace the daily thermometer if it is not accurate within 0.9ºF / 0.5ºC.
Incubators can easily overheat on a hot day, or if there is not enough ventilation in the room. In an emergency where the correct temperature is not feasible, a few hours at a low temperature (90ºF / 32.2ºC) is safer than a high temperature (105ºF / 40.6ºC).)
2-7. Turn the eggs regularly.
If the machine does not turn the eggs automatically, turn them by hand at least three times a day, and preferably five or seven times a day. To ensure the eggs are rotated 180º, mark the opposite sides with an X and an O, using a pencil or felt-tipped pen.
Turn an odd number of times each day so the two sides alternate positions each night.
2-8. Track humidity.
Use a wet bulb thermometer to test humidity daily. Most incubator manufacturers recommend a relative humidity of 55%, which is equivalent to an 85ºF (29.4ºC) wet bulb reading at air temperatures of 100ºF (37.8ºC). If you have a different air temperature, refer to a psychrometric chart to find the desired wet bulb reading at 55% relative humidity.
The wrong humidity can cause serious developmental problems. The effects are less immediate than a mistake in temperature or egg turning, but the humidity should never be more than 10% off these recommended levels for more than a day or two
To increase humidity, keep the incubator's moisture trays full of warm water. Many incubators have automatic controls to adjust humidity as well.
At the correct humidity levels, the egg should lose weight at a steady pace, down to about 85% of its original weight by the time it hatches. For more accuracy, weigh the egg regularly and draw a chart of its progress. If it is on pace to lose too much or too little weight, consult an expert or an in-depth incubation guide for information on adjusting humidity.
2-9. Ventilate the machine.
Forced-draught incubators should ventilate on their own, while still-air incubators only have small air holes and should be placed in a well-ventilated room. Since models vary greatly, refer to your incubator manual for instructions on adjusting ventilation.
Ventilation can be adjusted to change humidity, but this is not its only purpose. Do not reduce ventilation too far in an attempt to increase humidity, or the chicks may be cut off from oxygen.
2-10. Look up expected hatching times.
"True pheasant" species (also called typical pheasants) tend to hatch after 24 or 25 days of incubation. Other species range from 20 to 29 days, so look yours up so you know what to expect.
2-11. Make adjustments near hatching time.
About three days before the expected hatch date, make the following adjustments:
Move the eggs to a hatcher (optional). A hatcher is essentially a simple incubator with no turning mechanisms. Turning is not required during the final stages, and newly hatched chicks can get caught in the moving parts. Hatched chicks also introduce disease, so their presence in the incubator requires a new round of disinfecting.
Increase relative humidity to 65%. This will help soften the egg membrane, allowing chicks to push through. If necessary, hang wet hessian or install automatic misters to increase humidity.
Increase ventilation. Open the air vents wider during this period. Never keep the vents narrow in an effort to increase humidity during this time.
2-12. Wait for the chicks to hatch.
Some basic info in pen setup is covered in the section below. This guide does not go into the broader topic of pheasant chick care, but breeding associations and university extensions have excellent resources available online and by mail order.
3. Hatching Eggs with Brood Hens
3-1. Confirm that the pheasants are brooding.
As described in the section on breeding, pheasants require plenty of space, hidden nooks, and vegetation. Even then, many species are notoriously reluctant to brood. Check daily to see whether any of your hens have become broody. If they have, you can leave the incubation process to the mothers.
If the pheasants refuse to brood, you can give the eggs to other poultry species. Because the possible transfer of disease is specific to species and region, speak to a local pheasant breeder or veterinarian before you try this.
3-2. Watch for signs of male aggression.
If the females do not have space to hide from males, the males may become aggressive or destroy the eggs. The risk is greater after the chicks have hatched, so consider moving the males out of the pen once your hens are brooding.
Occasionally, a male will help the female brood. If you're a backyard breeder who's not too invested in the outcome, you can try keeping in the rooster for the first season and seeing what happens.
3-3. Construct sand ramps to roosting areas.
Newly hatched chicks cannot fly and may die if the pop hole (the entrance to the roost) is too high to reach. A ramp allows the chick to follow the mother up and down. Sand ramps are best, as solid ramps usually leave crevices that chicks can get lost or stuck in.
Also provide ramps between any "steps" in the pen.
3-4. Drain bodies of water.
Chicks easily drown even in small bodies of water. Empty these or surround them with chick-proof barriers.
3-5. Block off walls adjacent to other pens.
Birds in adjacent pens can catch chicks through the mesh. If two pens share a wall, block the area low to the ground with a solid barrier.
Also make sure you are using a mesh fine enough to prevent chicks from walking through the holes.
Tips
Eggs are vulnerable to many developmental problems. If there are any issues with the newly hatched chicks, a breeder or veterinarian may be able to guess the cause.[27]
X
Research source
Many pheasants can crossbreed with other pheasant species, and sometimes even with chickens or other poultry. Do your research before housing birds of different species together. An accidental breeding could result in infertile offspring, or offspring with undesirable traits.
Warnings
Wash hands before and after handling eggs and chicks.
Cover pens with netting to prevent pheasants flying off.
It is possible to help a chick out of its shell, but a small mistake can easily kill the chick. It is common for chicks to take 24 hours to break the shell, so don't assume something is wrong right away.
Always fumigate the incubator after a hatch to prevent the spread of disease.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:58:42",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Breeding Pheasants\\n1-1. Look up your pheasants' breeding season.\\nPheasants breed in spring and summer, generally beginning in March in the Northern Hemisphere. Look up your specific pheasant species to find a more accurate start date. For best results, you should move the pheasants into their breeding pen about a month before the season begins.\\n1-2. Set up the breeding pens.\\nPheasants thrive in large environments with plenty of brush cover. A space with an irregular shape works better than rectangular or round areas, as it provides more nooks and crannies for nesting hens. These factors are especially important if you plan to have the mother brood the eggs, but they are important even if you're only concerned about egg production.\\nThe ideal environment includes fully grown trees and shrubs. If this is not feasible, provide stacks of cornstalks or other brush for hiding and nesting spots.\\n1-3. Decide on a male:female ratio.\\nA breeding pen typically has a ratio of seven or eight hens per rooster. Males will often fight during the breeding season, so lowering this ratio may be dangerous. If you have the space, dividing the pen into multiple breeding groups will reduce violence and broken eggs.\\nIf a males dies or has to be removed, do not attempt to replace it during the breeding season. The remaining males may kill the intruder.\\n1-4. Provide calcium.\\nAll egg-laying birds require a calcium source to produce strong eggs. Oyster shells, limestone grit, and other options are available at farming supply stores. Pheasants are able to manage their own calcium levels when provided with enough of the source, so the exact amount is not critical.\\n1-5. Install artificial lights (optional).\\nIf you are running a commercial farm, artificial lights are recommended to increase egg production. Set these to an automatic timer to produce 15-hour days. Add the artificial light starting at sunset; sudden light before dawn may startle the pheasants.\\n1-6. Decide on an incubation method.\\nThere are three ways to incubate the eggs:\\n\\nIncubators: These machines are almost always used in commercial operations, as they can incubate many more eggs at once. They also allow precise control over the environment, which can greatly increase hatching percentage — at least once you've had some practice.\\nPheasant hens: This is the cheaper option, and may be more fun for a backyard breeder who wants to watch pheasant behavior. However, as described below, this requires plenty of space and vegetation. Brooding halts egg production, so you will end up with fewer fertilized eggs than the incubation method.\\nHens of other species: Even in good conditions, some pheasant species or individual hens will fail to raise the eggs. You may use domestic fowl to brood their eggs, but there is a risk of disease transfer or poor mothering once hatched.\\nNote — One efficient way to handle this is to allow the pheasant hen to brood for 7–10 days. Take the eggs to the incubator, then allow the hen to lay a second clutch and raise it herself.\\n2. Hatching Eggs in an Incubator\\n2-1. Purchase an incubator.\\nThere are a wide range of incubators available, costing anywhere from one hundred to several thousand US dollars. Choosing a model is beyond the scope of this guide, but these basics can inform your decision:\\nForced-draught incubators have better ventilation systems and are generally easier to manage. However, some studies suggest that the more labor-intensive still air incubators get better results for pheasant eggs.\\nRead the manual before buying if possible. If installed incorrectly or in the wrong environment, the incubator may overheat.\\n2-2. Review incubator basics\\nIf you've never used an incubator before, read our detailed guide to the general process. This includes important setup and sanitation information before you get started. Return to this guide to find information specific to pheasant incubation.\\nStart this at least a week in advance. Leaving incubator on this long will allow it to reach a steady temp and humidity before eggs are introduced.\\n2-3. Collect eggs daily.\\nIf the pheasant hens are not sitting on the eggs, collect them every morning, and perhaps again later in the day. Eggs left out are vulnerable to heat damage and predation.\\n2-4. Store eggs until ready to incubate.\\nIf your incubator is not ready yet, store the eggs in a tray of clean sand, with the pointed end tilted downward at a 45º angle Measure humidity and temperature daily, keeping the area as close to 55ºF (12.7ºC) and 65–70% relative humidity as possible. Even a change of 5ºF (change of 2.8ºC) can make an additional 10% of the eggs unviable.\\nRotate each egg once a day. Mark two opposite sides of the egg with an X and an O to help you keep track, using a pencil or felt-tipped pen.\\nMove on to incubation as soon as you can, and always within 11 days of collection.\\n2-5. Candle the eggs (optional)\\nA bright light can reveal signs of healthy development or failure. If you have limited space in your incubator, perform this test to determine which eggs you can discard. Place the remaining eggs inside the incubator.\\nDo not expose eggs to the light for too long, as the heat can cause damage.\\nYou may perform this test periodically while the eggs are being incubated, but try to minimize handling.\\n2-6. Track temperature daily.\\nFor pheasants, a forced-draught incubator should be kept as close as possible to 100ºF (37.8ºC), and still air incubators at 102–103ºF (38.9–39.4ºC). Place the thermometer ½ inch (1.2cm) above the top of the eggs, and check it daily.\\nThe right temperature is vital to the eggs' development. Keep a master thermometer (accurate within 0.18ºF / 0.1ºC) in a cool place where it will not be jarred. At least once a year, compare your daily thermometer to the master and replace the daily thermometer if it is not accurate within 0.9ºF / 0.5ºC.\\nIncubators can easily overheat on a hot day, or if there is not enough ventilation in the room. In an emergency where the correct temperature is not feasible, a few hours at a low temperature (90ºF / 32.2ºC) is safer than a high temperature (105ºF / 40.6ºC).)\\n2-7. Turn the eggs regularly.\\nIf the machine does not turn the eggs automatically, turn them by hand at least three times a day, and preferably five or seven times a day. To ensure the eggs are rotated 180º, mark the opposite sides with an X and an O, using a pencil or felt-tipped pen.\\nTurn an odd number of times each day so the two sides alternate positions each night.\\n2-8. Track humidity.\\nUse a wet bulb thermometer to test humidity daily. Most incubator manufacturers recommend a relative humidity of 55%, which is equivalent to an 85ºF (29.4ºC) wet bulb reading at air temperatures of 100ºF (37.8ºC). If you have a different air temperature, refer to a psychrometric chart to find the desired wet bulb reading at 55% relative humidity.\\nThe wrong humidity can cause serious developmental problems. The effects are less immediate than a mistake in temperature or egg turning, but the humidity should never be more than 10% off these recommended levels for more than a day or two\\nTo increase humidity, keep the incubator's moisture trays full of warm water. Many incubators have automatic controls to adjust humidity as well.\\nAt the correct humidity levels, the egg should lose weight at a steady pace, down to about 85% of its original weight by the time it hatches. For more accuracy, weigh the egg regularly and draw a chart of its progress. If it is on pace to lose too much or too little weight, consult an expert or an in-depth incubation guide for information on adjusting humidity.\\n2-9. Ventilate the machine.\\nForced-draught incubators should ventilate on their own, while still-air incubators only have small air holes and should be placed in a well-ventilated room. Since models vary greatly, refer to your incubator manual for instructions on adjusting ventilation.\\nVentilation can be adjusted to change humidity, but this is not its only purpose. Do not reduce ventilation too far in an attempt to increase humidity, or the chicks may be cut off from oxygen.\\n2-10. Look up expected hatching times.\\n\\\"True pheasant\\\" species (also called typical pheasants) tend to hatch after 24 or 25 days of incubation. Other species range from 20 to 29 days, so look yours up so you know what to expect.\\n2-11. Make adjustments near hatching time.\\nAbout three days before the expected hatch date, make the following adjustments:\\nMove the eggs to a hatcher (optional). A hatcher is essentially a simple incubator with no turning mechanisms. Turning is not required during the final stages, and newly hatched chicks can get caught in the moving parts. Hatched chicks also introduce disease, so their presence in the incubator requires a new round of disinfecting.\\nIncrease relative humidity to 65%. This will help soften the egg membrane, allowing chicks to push through. If necessary, hang wet hessian or install automatic misters to increase humidity.\\nIncrease ventilation. Open the air vents wider during this period. Never keep the vents narrow in an effort to increase humidity during this time.\\n2-12. Wait for the chicks to hatch.\\nSome basic info in pen setup is covered in the section below. This guide does not go into the broader topic of pheasant chick care, but breeding associations and university extensions have excellent resources available online and by mail order.\\n3. Hatching Eggs with Brood Hens\\n3-1. Confirm that the pheasants are brooding.\\nAs described in the section on breeding, pheasants require plenty of space, hidden nooks, and vegetation. Even then, many species are notoriously reluctant to brood. Check daily to see whether any of your hens have become broody. If they have, you can leave the incubation process to the mothers.\\nIf the pheasants refuse to brood, you can give the eggs to other poultry species. Because the possible transfer of disease is specific to species and region, speak to a local pheasant breeder or veterinarian before you try this.\\n3-2. Watch for signs of male aggression.\\nIf the females do not have space to hide from males, the males may become aggressive or destroy the eggs. The risk is greater after the chicks have hatched, so consider moving the males out of the pen once your hens are brooding.\\nOccasionally, a male will help the female brood. If you're a backyard breeder who's not too invested in the outcome, you can try keeping in the rooster for the first season and seeing what happens.\\n3-3. Construct sand ramps to roosting areas.\\nNewly hatched chicks cannot fly and may die if the pop hole (the entrance to the roost) is too high to reach. A ramp allows the chick to follow the mother up and down. Sand ramps are best, as solid ramps usually leave crevices that chicks can get lost or stuck in.\\nAlso provide ramps between any \\\"steps\\\" in the pen.\\n3-4. Drain bodies of water.\\nChicks easily drown even in small bodies of water. Empty these or surround them with chick-proof barriers.\\n3-5. Block off walls adjacent to other pens.\\nBirds in adjacent pens can catch chicks through the mesh. If two pens share a wall, block the area low to the ground with a solid barrier.\\nAlso make sure you are using a mesh fine enough to prevent chicks from walking through the holes.\\nTips\\nEggs are vulnerable to many developmental problems. If there are any issues with the newly hatched chicks, a breeder or veterinarian may be able to guess the cause.[27]\\nX\\nResearch source\\nMany pheasants can crossbreed with other pheasant species, and sometimes even with chickens or other poultry. Do your research before housing birds of different species together. An accidental breeding could result in infertile offspring, or offspring with undesirable traits.\\nWarnings\\nWash hands before and after handling eggs and chicks.\\nCover pens with netting to prevent pheasants flying off.\\nIt is possible to help a chick out of its shell, but a small mistake can easily kill the chick. It is common for chicks to take 24 hours to break the shell, so don't assume something is wrong right away.\\nAlways fumigate the incubator after a hatch to prevent the spread of disease.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Pheasants are significantly more difficult to breed than most domestic birds. Many hens refuse to brood or raise young in a domestic setting, and even machine-incubated eggs often have hatching rates below 50%. That said, breeding is definitely possible with the right information and tools. Just don't literally stake the family farm on the enterprise.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Breeding Pheasants\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Look up your pheasants' breeding season.\", \"描述\": \"Pheasants breed in spring and summer, generally beginning in March in the Northern Hemisphere. Look up your specific pheasant species to find a more accurate start date. For best results, you should move the pheasants into their breeding pen about a month before the season begins.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Set up the breeding pens.\", \"描述\": \"Pheasants thrive in large environments with plenty of brush cover. A space with an irregular shape works better than rectangular or round areas, as it provides more nooks and crannies for nesting hens. These factors are especially important if you plan to have the mother brood the eggs, but they are important even if you're only concerned about egg production.\\nThe ideal environment includes fully grown trees and shrubs. If this is not feasible, provide stacks of cornstalks or other brush for hiding and nesting spots.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Decide on a male:female ratio.\", \"描述\": \"A breeding pen typically has a ratio of seven or eight hens per rooster. Males will often fight during the breeding season, so lowering this ratio may be dangerous. If you have the space, dividing the pen into multiple breeding groups will reduce violence and broken eggs.\\nIf a males dies or has to be removed, do not attempt to replace it during the breeding season. The remaining males may kill the intruder.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Provide calcium.\", \"描述\": \"All egg-laying birds require a calcium source to produce strong eggs. Oyster shells, limestone grit, and other options are available at farming supply stores. Pheasants are able to manage their own calcium levels when provided with enough of the source, so the exact amount is not critical.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Install artificial lights (optional).\", \"描述\": \"If you are running a commercial farm, artificial lights are recommended to increase egg production. Set these to an automatic timer to produce 15-hour days. Add the artificial light starting at sunset; sudden light before dawn may startle the pheasants.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Decide on an incubation method.\", \"描述\": \"There are three ways to incubate the eggs:\\n\\nIncubators: These machines are almost always used in commercial operations, as they can incubate many more eggs at once. They also allow precise control over the environment, which can greatly increase hatching percentage — at least once you've had some practice.\\nPheasant hens: This is the cheaper option, and may be more fun for a backyard breeder who wants to watch pheasant behavior. However, as described below, this requires plenty of space and vegetation. Brooding halts egg production, so you will end up with fewer fertilized eggs than the incubation method.\\nHens of other species: Even in good conditions, some pheasant species or individual hens will fail to raise the eggs. You may use domestic fowl to brood their eggs, but there is a risk of disease transfer or poor mothering once hatched.\\nNote — One efficient way to handle this is to allow the pheasant hen to brood for 7–10 days. Take the eggs to the incubator, then allow the hen to lay a second clutch and raise it herself.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Hatching Eggs in an Incubator\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Purchase an incubator.\", \"描述\": \"There are a wide range of incubators available, costing anywhere from one hundred to several thousand US dollars. Choosing a model is beyond the scope of this guide, but these basics can inform your decision:\\nForced-draught incubators have better ventilation systems and are generally easier to manage. However, some studies suggest that the more labor-intensive still air incubators get better results for pheasant eggs.\\nRead the manual before buying if possible. If installed incorrectly or in the wrong environment, the incubator may overheat.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Review incubator basics\", \"描述\": \"If you've never used an incubator before, read our detailed guide to the general process. This includes important setup and sanitation information before you get started. Return to this guide to find information specific to pheasant incubation.\\nStart this at least a week in advance. Leaving incubator on this long will allow it to reach a steady temp and humidity before eggs are introduced.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Collect eggs daily.\", \"描述\": \"If the pheasant hens are not sitting on the eggs, collect them every morning, and perhaps again later in the day. Eggs left out are vulnerable to heat damage and predation.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Store eggs until ready to incubate.\", \"描述\": \"If your incubator is not ready yet, store the eggs in a tray of clean sand, with the pointed end tilted downward at a 45º angle Measure humidity and temperature daily, keeping the area as close to 55ºF (12.7ºC) and 65–70% relative humidity as possible. Even a change of 5ºF (change of 2.8ºC) can make an additional 10% of the eggs unviable.\\nRotate each egg once a day. Mark two opposite sides of the egg with an X and an O to help you keep track, using a pencil or felt-tipped pen.\\nMove on to incubation as soon as you can, and always within 11 days of collection.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Candle the eggs (optional)\", \"描述\": \"A bright light can reveal signs of healthy development or failure. If you have limited space in your incubator, perform this test to determine which eggs you can discard. Place the remaining eggs inside the incubator.\\nDo not expose eggs to the light for too long, as the heat can cause damage.\\nYou may perform this test periodically while the eggs are being incubated, but try to minimize handling.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Track temperature daily.\", \"描述\": \"For pheasants, a forced-draught incubator should be kept as close as possible to 100ºF (37.8ºC), and still air incubators at 102–103ºF (38.9–39.4ºC). Place the thermometer ½ inch (1.2cm) above the top of the eggs, and check it daily.\\nThe right temperature is vital to the eggs' development. Keep a master thermometer (accurate within 0.18ºF / 0.1ºC) in a cool place where it will not be jarred. At least once a year, compare your daily thermometer to the master and replace the daily thermometer if it is not accurate within 0.9ºF / 0.5ºC.\\nIncubators can easily overheat on a hot day, or if there is not enough ventilation in the room. In an emergency where the correct temperature is not feasible, a few hours at a low temperature (90ºF / 32.2ºC) is safer than a high temperature (105ºF / 40.6ºC).)\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Turn the eggs regularly.\", \"描述\": \"If the machine does not turn the eggs automatically, turn them by hand at least three times a day, and preferably five or seven times a day. To ensure the eggs are rotated 180º, mark the opposite sides with an X and an O, using a pencil or felt-tipped pen.\\nTurn an odd number of times each day so the two sides alternate positions each night.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Track humidity.\", \"描述\": \"Use a wet bulb thermometer to test humidity daily. Most incubator manufacturers recommend a relative humidity of 55%, which is equivalent to an 85ºF (29.4ºC) wet bulb reading at air temperatures of 100ºF (37.8ºC). If you have a different air temperature, refer to a psychrometric chart to find the desired wet bulb reading at 55% relative humidity.\\nThe wrong humidity can cause serious developmental problems. The effects are less immediate than a mistake in temperature or egg turning, but the humidity should never be more than 10% off these recommended levels for more than a day or two\\nTo increase humidity, keep the incubator's moisture trays full of warm water. Many incubators have automatic controls to adjust humidity as well.\\nAt the correct humidity levels, the egg should lose weight at a steady pace, down to about 85% of its original weight by the time it hatches. For more accuracy, weigh the egg regularly and draw a chart of its progress. If it is on pace to lose too much or too little weight, consult an expert or an in-depth incubation guide for information on adjusting humidity.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Ventilate the machine.\", \"描述\": \"Forced-draught incubators should ventilate on their own, while still-air incubators only have small air holes and should be placed in a well-ventilated room. Since models vary greatly, refer to your incubator manual for instructions on adjusting ventilation.\\nVentilation can be adjusted to change humidity, but this is not its only purpose. Do not reduce ventilation too far in an attempt to increase humidity, or the chicks may be cut off from oxygen.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Look up expected hatching times.\", \"描述\": \"\\\"True pheasant\\\" species (also called typical pheasants) tend to hatch after 24 or 25 days of incubation. Other species range from 20 to 29 days, so look yours up so you know what to expect.\"}, {\"编号\": 11, \"标题\": \"Make adjustments near hatching time.\", \"描述\": \"About three days before the expected hatch date, make the following adjustments:\\nMove the eggs to a hatcher (optional). A hatcher is essentially a simple incubator with no turning mechanisms. Turning is not required during the final stages, and newly hatched chicks can get caught in the moving parts. Hatched chicks also introduce disease, so their presence in the incubator requires a new round of disinfecting.\\nIncrease relative humidity to 65%. This will help soften the egg membrane, allowing chicks to push through. If necessary, hang wet hessian or install automatic misters to increase humidity.\\nIncrease ventilation. Open the air vents wider during this period. Never keep the vents narrow in an effort to increase humidity during this time.\"}, {\"编号\": 12, \"标题\": \"Wait for the chicks to hatch.\", \"描述\": \"Some basic info in pen setup is covered in the section below. This guide does not go into the broader topic of pheasant chick care, but breeding associations and university extensions have excellent resources available online and by mail order.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Hatching Eggs with Brood Hens\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Confirm that the pheasants are brooding.\", \"描述\": \"As described in the section on breeding, pheasants require plenty of space, hidden nooks, and vegetation. Even then, many species are notoriously reluctant to brood. Check daily to see whether any of your hens have become broody. If they have, you can leave the incubation process to the mothers.\\nIf the pheasants refuse to brood, you can give the eggs to other poultry species. Because the possible transfer of disease is specific to species and region, speak to a local pheasant breeder or veterinarian before you try this.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Watch for signs of male aggression.\", \"描述\": \"If the females do not have space to hide from males, the males may become aggressive or destroy the eggs. The risk is greater after the chicks have hatched, so consider moving the males out of the pen once your hens are brooding.\\nOccasionally, a male will help the female brood. If you're a backyard breeder who's not too invested in the outcome, you can try keeping in the rooster for the first season and seeing what happens.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Construct sand ramps to roosting areas.\", \"描述\": \"Newly hatched chicks cannot fly and may die if the pop hole (the entrance to the roost) is too high to reach. A ramp allows the chick to follow the mother up and down. Sand ramps are best, as solid ramps usually leave crevices that chicks can get lost or stuck in.\\nAlso provide ramps between any \\\"steps\\\" in the pen.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Drain bodies of water.\", \"描述\": \"Chicks easily drown even in small bodies of water. Empty these or surround them with chick-proof barriers.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Block off walls adjacent to other pens.\", \"描述\": \"Birds in adjacent pens can catch chicks through the mesh. If two pens share a wall, block the area low to the ground with a solid barrier.\\nAlso make sure you are using a mesh fine enough to prevent chicks from walking through the holes.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Eggs are vulnerable to many developmental problems. If there are any issues with the newly hatched chicks, a breeder or veterinarian may be able to guess the cause.[27]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\", \"Many pheasants can crossbreed with other pheasant species, and sometimes even with chickens or other poultry. Do your research before housing birds of different species together. An accidental breeding could result in infertile offspring, or offspring with undesirable traits.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Wash hands before and after handling eggs and chicks.\\n\", \"Cover pens with netting to prevent pheasants flying off.\\n\", \"It is possible to help a chick out of its shell, but a small mistake can easily kill the chick. It is common for chicks to take 24 hours to break the shell, so don't assume something is wrong right away.\\n\", \"Always fumigate the incubator after a hatch to prevent the spread of disease.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
6,973 |
How to Brew Beer Using All Grain Method
|
1. Steps
1-1. Choose the grains.
Beer by definition has to contain at least 60% malted barley which is the base malt for all the world's beers. Other types of grains can be added (oats, rye, wheat, etc.). These are called adjuncts and should only make up to 30% of your grain bill. Malted barley is made by partially germinating the barley in warm water, then drying/cooking it before the seed splits. The barley is processed in different ways to get different characteristics. Typically you want around 8-15 lbs (4-7 Kg) base malt per 5 gallons (18.9 L) (21 L), depending on the type of beer you're brewing. 2-row British pale malt is great to start off with. Add 1-2 lbs (0.5-1 Kg) of specialty grains (crystal, caramel, etc.) to get some good flavor. Lighter crystals are good to add sweetness. Toasted malts will create more of a malty body.Taste the grain as you formulate the recipe. This is a great indicator on the quality of the grain.
1-2. Mill the grain.
The grain needs to be cracked open to gain access to the starches and enzymes inside. The home brew shop should have a mill to use if not one can be purchased or constructed. Usually these are two rollers about .045" apart that the grain is fed into.
1-3. Make the mash tun.
The grain contains mostly starch that needs to be converted to sugar so that the yeast will have something to ferment. The enzymes in the grain are going to do this and they do it well. The mash tun will hold the grain at 68 °C (154 °F) for 1-2 hours. The mash tun can be made in different ways but a 6 gallon (22 L) bucket with a false bottom (a mesh at the bottom for drainage) will be the cheapest. A good recommendation for a cheap better quality mash tun would be converting a cooler. 10 gallon (40 L) round Igloo or Gatorade coolers work the best. False bottoms are sold for cheap and easy to install, or make your own. To make your own, get a 12" toilet water line with stainless braiding on it and cut the ends off. Remove the stainless braid. Crimp one end closed with pliers and attach the other end to a 3/8" flex copper piece with a hose clamp. Use a drilled rubber stopper where the hole is near the bottom of the cooler to prevent leaking. A valve or vinyl hose clamp can be used to control the flow of your hot liquor after the mash.
1-4. Start mashing.
For every 1 pound (0.5 Kg) of grain heat 1 US-quart (950 ml) (1/4 gallon, 1 L) of water to 170 degrees (76ºC). Pour the 170 degree (76ºC) water along with the grains stirring as you go. You want to uniformly add the grain along with the water so it doesn't get too hot or form clumps. The temperature should be anywhere from 148-158 degrees (64-70ºC). If it is somewhere in the middle you're golden. The beta amylase enzymes are active toward the 145 degree (63ºC) end, which make fermentable sugars, making a dry beer. The alpha amylase enzymes are active toward the 160 degree (71ºC) end, making unfermentable sugars, making a sweet beer. The balance -mash temperature - is up to the brewer and the type of beer you're making. Insulate the mash tun by wrapping it up in a blanket or sleeping bag or jackets (not necessary with a cooler mash tun). While you are mashing, start heating up 2 US quarts (2,000 ml) (1/2 gallon, 2 L) of water per pound (0.5 Kg).
1-5. Test the wort.
After about an hour the conversion from starch to sugar will be complete. You can test this with iodine. Put a small amount of wort on a white surface (like a plate) and add a drop of iodine. If it turns black starches still exist and it needs to sit longer. NOTE: Discard the wort with the iodine do not put it back in the wort. If it doesn't change color at all the conversion is complete. Start draining off the wort from the grain bed SLOWLY.
1-6. Perform the sparging.
Sparging is the process of rinsing the hot liquid off of the grain bed. The best no nonsense method is to do it in 2 steps. When the hot liquid is done draining, add half the sparge water at 180-190 degrees (80-90ºC) and let it sit 20 minutes. Drain. Then do it again. You want around 6 1/2 gallons (25 L) of hot liquid in the end. This is the beer wort. The most efficient way to sparge is called continuous sparging. With this method you control a slow run off of your hot liquid while adding 170 degree water to the top of the grain bed at the same rate. Take the first couple quarts of hot liquid and pour back on to the grain bed to filter out husks which cause off flavors when boiled. Continue sparging until your pre-boil volume is reached -usually about 6 gallons (23L) for a 60 minute boil 5 gallon (21L) batch.
1-7. Boil the wort.
Bring the temperature up to boiling.
1-8. Add the hops.
Hops are a green flower from a hop vine. They add bitterness to the beer which provides a balance against the sweetness of the sugars. Hops also add aroma and flavor. There are many different varieties. Fuggle, East Kent Golding, and Cascade are good varieties you can't go wrong with. The higher the alpha acid percentage and time boiled, the more bitter it will be. 4-5% is about average and 10-12% is high. There are calculations to figure out the IBU's (International Bitterness Units) to get a more exact bittering estimate. 10-20 IBU is low to average bitterness (think light lager) 40 is moderately high (think pale ale) and 50-60+ is very bitter (think IPA). Some IPA recipes boast over 100 IBUs. The longer the hop boils the more bitterness will be extracted.
1-9. Meanwhile, get the fermentors.
The cheapest fermentor is a 6 gallon (22.7 L) bucket with an airlock on the top. An airlock is a device that only lets air out and not in. They should be cleaned of any crud from the previous ferment and sanitized with Iodophor solution (check your local homebrew shop) or a bleach solution, two tablespoons per 5 gallons (18.9 L) of COLD water. DO NOT SCRUB PLASTIC FERMENTERS! Microscopic scratches in plastic harbor wild yeast and bacteria that will destroy your beer! Let this sit for 20 minutes then rinse with clean filtered water twice. This sanitizing step is best done while the wort is boiling, otherwise its an hour spent waiting not getting anything else accomplished.
1-10. Boil.
Boil the wort for at least 1 hour at a rolling boil. The more vigorous a boil the better. Once the wort is boiling add the flavoring hops. 1 oz of pellets is good to start with. Make sure to stir wort while it is getting up to temperature. While the wort is boiling make sure the fermenters are clean and ready. 10-15 minutes before the end of the hour add the flavoring hops usually about 1/2 oz (15g). 5 minutes from the end add the aroma hops 1/2 oz (15g). Aroma hops can also be added to the wort BEFORE boiling, when you transfer the beer wort from the mash tun to the kettle (this is called First Wort Hopping). This allows the aromas to nestle their way into the beer at an early stage. They will not boil off like a lot of the aromas do when added to the boil 5-10 mins before the boil ends.
1-11. Chill the wort.
You can purchase a wort chiller but it is unnecessary if you have boiled less than 3 gallons (11.4 L). The chiller will cool the wort down to 70-75 (20-24ºC) so you can pitch the yeast. Without a chiller you can still get good results by placing the wort boiling pot into an ice bath, either in a large sink, or the bathtub. It is imperative to chill the boiling wort down to below 80 degrees as fast as possible. Beer is the most susceptible to infection at, or around, 140 degrees. It is very important to go from 212 to 70 degrees as fast as possible.
1-12. Fill the fermentor.
Pour the finished wort through a strainer to remove the hops into the fermentation bucket. If needed, add only pure clean water to top the fermenter off at a little over 5 gallons (18.9 L). Seal it up and shake the heck out of it to incorporate much-needed oxygen into the wort. This is safe to do now that the wort is chilled and very important since it provides the initial oxygen for aerobic yeast reproduction. When the wort is 70-75 degrees (20-24ºC) pitch the yeast. Using a filter is not necessary if a whirlpool is used. A whirlpool is simply when you stir the wort hard and let it spin in the boil kettle for 10 minutes right at flame out (don't worry, the wort is still around 195 degrees, but still keep the lid on while it's spinning to avoid contamination). This process uses centrifugal force to separate solids from the wort just like a centrifuge in a chemistry lab. If the wort is drained off from the side of the pot, no hops or trub will be poured into the fermenter.
1-13. Choose the yeast.
If using a liquid yeast, a starter is recommended for healthier pitching rates, although not necessary. If using dry yeast, rehydrate with warm water before pitching.
1-14. Transfer to a clean secondary.
After 1-2 weeks of primary fermentation transfer to a clean and sanitized secondary to clear the beer up and let it condition. Use a sanitized siphon to get the beer from the primary to the secondary. The beer will have most of the alcohol in it already so it will be more resistant to nasties in the air. Tips: Avoid sucking on the siphon and getting mouth germs into the beer. Definitely avoid splashing at this stage, since alcohol is easily oxidized and will make the beer funky. If you can pump some CO2 gas (paintball cartridge size will do) into and fill the secondary beforehand you are an ace and will have the best beer transfer possible. Be careful, but realize you aren't getting ready to do surgery or anything.
1-15. Bottle or keg the beer.
Kegging much easier than bottling. It costs more money, but in the end it saves you a lot of time. Soda kegs are used with a CO2 tank to pressurize. Clean and sanitize the keg. Fill it with CO2 gas to provide a protective blanket (CO2 is heavier than Oxygen and sinks, thus preventing the alcohol present from oxidizing) and gently siphon the beer in. Seal the lid and chill it in your fridge down to at least 40 degrees. (this is not necessary to chill it but the colder it is the more gas will dissolve into it). Hook it up to the tank to pressurize to 20 psi. It will take about 1 hour of rolling the keg around under pressure (while purging off excess pressure that builds up) to get the CO2 in the beer if you want to drink it right away. Otherwise, let it sit for a couple days at 30 psi. If bottling is your method of choice, soak bottles in PBW or your preferred cleanser for a few hours to remove organics and make peeling off labels easier. Rinse well, then soak in Iodaphor or your preferred sanitizer for at least 5 minutes. Do not rinse. Place bottles on sanitary dishwasher rack or bottle tree to drip dry. Siphon your beer from the secondary carboy to a bottling bucket along with a pre-boiled sugar water solution (1/3 to 1/2 cup of cane sugar to prime depending on your desired level of carbonation). Cap each bottle with sanitized caps (boiling works fine) and let sit at room temperature for at least 2 weeks, more if you have the patience.
1-16. Serve.
Lower the pressure to 12 - 15 psi by purging off some gas from the gas inlet. The easiest way to serve is using a cold plate in a cooler. No fridge and it is portable. Run the lines through the cold plate and throw some ice on it. Then run a line with a tap out of the cooler. It is still very important to keep a cold keg cold. Never let your beer warm up unnecessarily.
1-17. Drink your creation.
Notice how fresh your beer is. Notice how much better your fresh beer is compared with even top micro brews in your area. If not, try again. You'll get there.
Tips
It is amazing how different your beer will turn out with different strains of yeast. Experiment with different stuff; you won't be disappointed.
Don't get wrapped up in fancy equipment or nit picky methods until you have the concept of a good process first. Concentrate on the overall basic process, keeping things clean and quality ingredients.
Invest in soda kegs and build a kegerator, you'll probably have a lot more fun than messing with bottles.
Warnings
Cleanliness is godliness but only when brewing beer.
Don't be a hero and try to drink spoiled batches of beer. Some infections can arise from fungi and bacteria harmful to humans in large enough doses. Just dump it out, learn from your mistakes, and try again!
Be careful when rinsing with tap water not to assume your equipment will be sanitary afterward. Most tap water contains trace amounts of pathogens not harmful to humans, but will spoil a fermentation. That is why most sanitizers are "no-rinse."
Don't confuse "clean" with "sanitary." Clean simply means just that -clean. Sanitary means free of pathogens and fungi. Something that is clean may not be sanitary.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:58:42",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Choose the grains.\\nBeer by definition has to contain at least 60% malted barley which is the base malt for all the world's beers. Other types of grains can be added (oats, rye, wheat, etc.). These are called adjuncts and should only make up to 30% of your grain bill. Malted barley is made by partially germinating the barley in warm water, then drying/cooking it before the seed splits. The barley is processed in different ways to get different characteristics. Typically you want around 8-15 lbs (4-7 Kg) base malt per 5 gallons (18.9 L) (21 L), depending on the type of beer you're brewing. 2-row British pale malt is great to start off with. Add 1-2 lbs (0.5-1 Kg) of specialty grains (crystal, caramel, etc.) to get some good flavor. Lighter crystals are good to add sweetness. Toasted malts will create more of a malty body.Taste the grain as you formulate the recipe. This is a great indicator on the quality of the grain.\\n1-2. Mill the grain.\\nThe grain needs to be cracked open to gain access to the starches and enzymes inside. The home brew shop should have a mill to use if not one can be purchased or constructed. Usually these are two rollers about .045\\\" apart that the grain is fed into.\\n1-3. Make the mash tun.\\nThe grain contains mostly starch that needs to be converted to sugar so that the yeast will have something to ferment. The enzymes in the grain are going to do this and they do it well. The mash tun will hold the grain at 68 °C (154 °F) for 1-2 hours. The mash tun can be made in different ways but a 6 gallon (22 L) bucket with a false bottom (a mesh at the bottom for drainage) will be the cheapest. A good recommendation for a cheap better quality mash tun would be converting a cooler. 10 gallon (40 L) round Igloo or Gatorade coolers work the best. False bottoms are sold for cheap and easy to install, or make your own. To make your own, get a 12\\\" toilet water line with stainless braiding on it and cut the ends off. Remove the stainless braid. Crimp one end closed with pliers and attach the other end to a 3/8\\\" flex copper piece with a hose clamp. Use a drilled rubber stopper where the hole is near the bottom of the cooler to prevent leaking. A valve or vinyl hose clamp can be used to control the flow of your hot liquor after the mash.\\n1-4. Start mashing.\\nFor every 1 pound (0.5 Kg) of grain heat 1 US-quart (950 ml) (1/4 gallon, 1 L) of water to 170 degrees (76ºC). Pour the 170 degree (76ºC) water along with the grains stirring as you go. You want to uniformly add the grain along with the water so it doesn't get too hot or form clumps. The temperature should be anywhere from 148-158 degrees (64-70ºC). If it is somewhere in the middle you're golden. The beta amylase enzymes are active toward the 145 degree (63ºC) end, which make fermentable sugars, making a dry beer. The alpha amylase enzymes are active toward the 160 degree (71ºC) end, making unfermentable sugars, making a sweet beer. The balance -mash temperature - is up to the brewer and the type of beer you're making. Insulate the mash tun by wrapping it up in a blanket or sleeping bag or jackets (not necessary with a cooler mash tun). While you are mashing, start heating up 2 US quarts (2,000 ml) (1/2 gallon, 2 L) of water per pound (0.5 Kg).\\n1-5. Test the wort.\\nAfter about an hour the conversion from starch to sugar will be complete. You can test this with iodine. Put a small amount of wort on a white surface (like a plate) and add a drop of iodine. If it turns black starches still exist and it needs to sit longer. NOTE: Discard the wort with the iodine do not put it back in the wort. If it doesn't change color at all the conversion is complete. Start draining off the wort from the grain bed SLOWLY.\\n1-6. Perform the sparging.\\nSparging is the process of rinsing the hot liquid off of the grain bed. The best no nonsense method is to do it in 2 steps. When the hot liquid is done draining, add half the sparge water at 180-190 degrees (80-90ºC) and let it sit 20 minutes. Drain. Then do it again. You want around 6 1/2 gallons (25 L) of hot liquid in the end. This is the beer wort. The most efficient way to sparge is called continuous sparging. With this method you control a slow run off of your hot liquid while adding 170 degree water to the top of the grain bed at the same rate. Take the first couple quarts of hot liquid and pour back on to the grain bed to filter out husks which cause off flavors when boiled. Continue sparging until your pre-boil volume is reached -usually about 6 gallons (23L) for a 60 minute boil 5 gallon (21L) batch.\\n1-7. Boil the wort.\\nBring the temperature up to boiling.\\n1-8. Add the hops.\\nHops are a green flower from a hop vine. They add bitterness to the beer which provides a balance against the sweetness of the sugars. Hops also add aroma and flavor. There are many different varieties. Fuggle, East Kent Golding, and Cascade are good varieties you can't go wrong with. The higher the alpha acid percentage and time boiled, the more bitter it will be. 4-5% is about average and 10-12% is high. There are calculations to figure out the IBU's (International Bitterness Units) to get a more exact bittering estimate. 10-20 IBU is low to average bitterness (think light lager) 40 is moderately high (think pale ale) and 50-60+ is very bitter (think IPA). Some IPA recipes boast over 100 IBUs. The longer the hop boils the more bitterness will be extracted.\\n1-9. Meanwhile, get the fermentors.\\nThe cheapest fermentor is a 6 gallon (22.7 L) bucket with an airlock on the top. An airlock is a device that only lets air out and not in. They should be cleaned of any crud from the previous ferment and sanitized with Iodophor solution (check your local homebrew shop) or a bleach solution, two tablespoons per 5 gallons (18.9 L) of COLD water. DO NOT SCRUB PLASTIC FERMENTERS! Microscopic scratches in plastic harbor wild yeast and bacteria that will destroy your beer! Let this sit for 20 minutes then rinse with clean filtered water twice. This sanitizing step is best done while the wort is boiling, otherwise its an hour spent waiting not getting anything else accomplished.\\n1-10. Boil.\\nBoil the wort for at least 1 hour at a rolling boil. The more vigorous a boil the better. Once the wort is boiling add the flavoring hops. 1 oz of pellets is good to start with. Make sure to stir wort while it is getting up to temperature. While the wort is boiling make sure the fermenters are clean and ready. 10-15 minutes before the end of the hour add the flavoring hops usually about 1/2 oz (15g). 5 minutes from the end add the aroma hops 1/2 oz (15g). Aroma hops can also be added to the wort BEFORE boiling, when you transfer the beer wort from the mash tun to the kettle (this is called First Wort Hopping). This allows the aromas to nestle their way into the beer at an early stage. They will not boil off like a lot of the aromas do when added to the boil 5-10 mins before the boil ends.\\n1-11. Chill the wort.\\nYou can purchase a wort chiller but it is unnecessary if you have boiled less than 3 gallons (11.4 L). The chiller will cool the wort down to 70-75 (20-24ºC) so you can pitch the yeast. Without a chiller you can still get good results by placing the wort boiling pot into an ice bath, either in a large sink, or the bathtub. It is imperative to chill the boiling wort down to below 80 degrees as fast as possible. Beer is the most susceptible to infection at, or around, 140 degrees. It is very important to go from 212 to 70 degrees as fast as possible.\\n1-12. Fill the fermentor.\\nPour the finished wort through a strainer to remove the hops into the fermentation bucket. If needed, add only pure clean water to top the fermenter off at a little over 5 gallons (18.9 L). Seal it up and shake the heck out of it to incorporate much-needed oxygen into the wort. This is safe to do now that the wort is chilled and very important since it provides the initial oxygen for aerobic yeast reproduction. When the wort is 70-75 degrees (20-24ºC) pitch the yeast. Using a filter is not necessary if a whirlpool is used. A whirlpool is simply when you stir the wort hard and let it spin in the boil kettle for 10 minutes right at flame out (don't worry, the wort is still around 195 degrees, but still keep the lid on while it's spinning to avoid contamination). This process uses centrifugal force to separate solids from the wort just like a centrifuge in a chemistry lab. If the wort is drained off from the side of the pot, no hops or trub will be poured into the fermenter.\\n1-13. Choose the yeast.\\nIf using a liquid yeast, a starter is recommended for healthier pitching rates, although not necessary. If using dry yeast, rehydrate with warm water before pitching.\\n1-14. Transfer to a clean secondary.\\nAfter 1-2 weeks of primary fermentation transfer to a clean and sanitized secondary to clear the beer up and let it condition. Use a sanitized siphon to get the beer from the primary to the secondary. The beer will have most of the alcohol in it already so it will be more resistant to nasties in the air. Tips: Avoid sucking on the siphon and getting mouth germs into the beer. Definitely avoid splashing at this stage, since alcohol is easily oxidized and will make the beer funky. If you can pump some CO2 gas (paintball cartridge size will do) into and fill the secondary beforehand you are an ace and will have the best beer transfer possible. Be careful, but realize you aren't getting ready to do surgery or anything.\\n1-15. Bottle or keg the beer.\\nKegging much easier than bottling. It costs more money, but in the end it saves you a lot of time. Soda kegs are used with a CO2 tank to pressurize. Clean and sanitize the keg. Fill it with CO2 gas to provide a protective blanket (CO2 is heavier than Oxygen and sinks, thus preventing the alcohol present from oxidizing) and gently siphon the beer in. Seal the lid and chill it in your fridge down to at least 40 degrees. (this is not necessary to chill it but the colder it is the more gas will dissolve into it). Hook it up to the tank to pressurize to 20 psi. It will take about 1 hour of rolling the keg around under pressure (while purging off excess pressure that builds up) to get the CO2 in the beer if you want to drink it right away. Otherwise, let it sit for a couple days at 30 psi. If bottling is your method of choice, soak bottles in PBW or your preferred cleanser for a few hours to remove organics and make peeling off labels easier. Rinse well, then soak in Iodaphor or your preferred sanitizer for at least 5 minutes. Do not rinse. Place bottles on sanitary dishwasher rack or bottle tree to drip dry. Siphon your beer from the secondary carboy to a bottling bucket along with a pre-boiled sugar water solution (1/3 to 1/2 cup of cane sugar to prime depending on your desired level of carbonation). Cap each bottle with sanitized caps (boiling works fine) and let sit at room temperature for at least 2 weeks, more if you have the patience.\\n1-16. Serve.\\nLower the pressure to 12 - 15 psi by purging off some gas from the gas inlet. The easiest way to serve is using a cold plate in a cooler. No fridge and it is portable. Run the lines through the cold plate and throw some ice on it. Then run a line with a tap out of the cooler. It is still very important to keep a cold keg cold. Never let your beer warm up unnecessarily.\\n1-17. Drink your creation.\\nNotice how fresh your beer is. Notice how much better your fresh beer is compared with even top micro brews in your area. If not, try again. You'll get there.\\nTips\\nIt is amazing how different your beer will turn out with different strains of yeast. Experiment with different stuff; you won't be disappointed.\\nDon't get wrapped up in fancy equipment or nit picky methods until you have the concept of a good process first. Concentrate on the overall basic process, keeping things clean and quality ingredients.\\nInvest in soda kegs and build a kegerator, you'll probably have a lot more fun than messing with bottles.\\nWarnings\\nCleanliness is godliness but only when brewing beer.\\nDon't be a hero and try to drink spoiled batches of beer. Some infections can arise from fungi and bacteria harmful to humans in large enough doses. Just dump it out, learn from your mistakes, and try again!\\nBe careful when rinsing with tap water not to assume your equipment will be sanitary afterward. Most tap water contains trace amounts of pathogens not harmful to humans, but will spoil a fermentation. That is why most sanitizers are \\\"no-rinse.\\\"\\nDon't confuse \\\"clean\\\" with \\\"sanitary.\\\" Clean simply means just that -clean. Sanitary means free of pathogens and fungi. Something that is clean may not be sanitary.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"This is a method of brewing beer using malted grains instead of extract, with an emphasis on getting it done inexpensively but without sacrificing quality.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Choose the grains.\", \"描述\": \"Beer by definition has to contain at least 60% malted barley which is the base malt for all the world's beers. Other types of grains can be added (oats, rye, wheat, etc.). These are called adjuncts and should only make up to 30% of your grain bill. Malted barley is made by partially germinating the barley in warm water, then drying/cooking it before the seed splits. The barley is processed in different ways to get different characteristics. Typically you want around 8-15 lbs (4-7 Kg) base malt per 5 gallons (18.9 L) (21 L), depending on the type of beer you're brewing. 2-row British pale malt is great to start off with. Add 1-2 lbs (0.5-1 Kg) of specialty grains (crystal, caramel, etc.) to get some good flavor. Lighter crystals are good to add sweetness. Toasted malts will create more of a malty body.Taste the grain as you formulate the recipe. This is a great indicator on the quality of the grain.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Mill the grain.\", \"描述\": \"The grain needs to be cracked open to gain access to the starches and enzymes inside. The home brew shop should have a mill to use if not one can be purchased or constructed. Usually these are two rollers about .045\\\" apart that the grain is fed into.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Make the mash tun.\", \"描述\": \"The grain contains mostly starch that needs to be converted to sugar so that the yeast will have something to ferment. The enzymes in the grain are going to do this and they do it well. The mash tun will hold the grain at 68 °C (154 °F) for 1-2 hours. The mash tun can be made in different ways but a 6 gallon (22 L) bucket with a false bottom (a mesh at the bottom for drainage) will be the cheapest. A good recommendation for a cheap better quality mash tun would be converting a cooler. 10 gallon (40 L) round Igloo or Gatorade coolers work the best. False bottoms are sold for cheap and easy to install, or make your own. To make your own, get a 12\\\" toilet water line with stainless braiding on it and cut the ends off. Remove the stainless braid. Crimp one end closed with pliers and attach the other end to a 3/8\\\" flex copper piece with a hose clamp. Use a drilled rubber stopper where the hole is near the bottom of the cooler to prevent leaking. A valve or vinyl hose clamp can be used to control the flow of your hot liquor after the mash.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Start mashing.\", \"描述\": \"For every 1 pound (0.5 Kg) of grain heat 1 US-quart (950 ml) (1/4 gallon, 1 L) of water to 170 degrees (76ºC). Pour the 170 degree (76ºC) water along with the grains stirring as you go. You want to uniformly add the grain along with the water so it doesn't get too hot or form clumps. The temperature should be anywhere from 148-158 degrees (64-70ºC). If it is somewhere in the middle you're golden. The beta amylase enzymes are active toward the 145 degree (63ºC) end, which make fermentable sugars, making a dry beer. The alpha amylase enzymes are active toward the 160 degree (71ºC) end, making unfermentable sugars, making a sweet beer. The balance -mash temperature - is up to the brewer and the type of beer you're making. Insulate the mash tun by wrapping it up in a blanket or sleeping bag or jackets (not necessary with a cooler mash tun). While you are mashing, start heating up 2 US quarts (2,000 ml) (1/2 gallon, 2 L) of water per pound (0.5 Kg).\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Test the wort.\", \"描述\": \"After about an hour the conversion from starch to sugar will be complete. You can test this with iodine. Put a small amount of wort on a white surface (like a plate) and add a drop of iodine. If it turns black starches still exist and it needs to sit longer. NOTE: Discard the wort with the iodine do not put it back in the wort. If it doesn't change color at all the conversion is complete. Start draining off the wort from the grain bed SLOWLY.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Perform the sparging.\", \"描述\": \"Sparging is the process of rinsing the hot liquid off of the grain bed. The best no nonsense method is to do it in 2 steps. When the hot liquid is done draining, add half the sparge water at 180-190 degrees (80-90ºC) and let it sit 20 minutes. Drain. Then do it again. You want around 6 1/2 gallons (25 L) of hot liquid in the end. This is the beer wort. The most efficient way to sparge is called continuous sparging. With this method you control a slow run off of your hot liquid while adding 170 degree water to the top of the grain bed at the same rate. Take the first couple quarts of hot liquid and pour back on to the grain bed to filter out husks which cause off flavors when boiled. Continue sparging until your pre-boil volume is reached -usually about 6 gallons (23L) for a 60 minute boil 5 gallon (21L) batch.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Boil the wort.\", \"描述\": \"Bring the temperature up to boiling.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Add the hops.\", \"描述\": \"Hops are a green flower from a hop vine. They add bitterness to the beer which provides a balance against the sweetness of the sugars. Hops also add aroma and flavor. There are many different varieties. Fuggle, East Kent Golding, and Cascade are good varieties you can't go wrong with. The higher the alpha acid percentage and time boiled, the more bitter it will be. 4-5% is about average and 10-12% is high. There are calculations to figure out the IBU's (International Bitterness Units) to get a more exact bittering estimate. 10-20 IBU is low to average bitterness (think light lager) 40 is moderately high (think pale ale) and 50-60+ is very bitter (think IPA). Some IPA recipes boast over 100 IBUs. The longer the hop boils the more bitterness will be extracted.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Meanwhile, get the fermentors.\", \"描述\": \"The cheapest fermentor is a 6 gallon (22.7 L) bucket with an airlock on the top. An airlock is a device that only lets air out and not in. They should be cleaned of any crud from the previous ferment and sanitized with Iodophor solution (check your local homebrew shop) or a bleach solution, two tablespoons per 5 gallons (18.9 L) of COLD water. DO NOT SCRUB PLASTIC FERMENTERS! Microscopic scratches in plastic harbor wild yeast and bacteria that will destroy your beer! Let this sit for 20 minutes then rinse with clean filtered water twice. This sanitizing step is best done while the wort is boiling, otherwise its an hour spent waiting not getting anything else accomplished.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Boil.\", \"描述\": \"Boil the wort for at least 1 hour at a rolling boil. The more vigorous a boil the better. Once the wort is boiling add the flavoring hops. 1 oz of pellets is good to start with. Make sure to stir wort while it is getting up to temperature. While the wort is boiling make sure the fermenters are clean and ready. 10-15 minutes before the end of the hour add the flavoring hops usually about 1/2 oz (15g). 5 minutes from the end add the aroma hops 1/2 oz (15g). Aroma hops can also be added to the wort BEFORE boiling, when you transfer the beer wort from the mash tun to the kettle (this is called First Wort Hopping). This allows the aromas to nestle their way into the beer at an early stage. They will not boil off like a lot of the aromas do when added to the boil 5-10 mins before the boil ends.\"}, {\"编号\": 11, \"标题\": \"Chill the wort.\", \"描述\": \"You can purchase a wort chiller but it is unnecessary if you have boiled less than 3 gallons (11.4 L). The chiller will cool the wort down to 70-75 (20-24ºC) so you can pitch the yeast. Without a chiller you can still get good results by placing the wort boiling pot into an ice bath, either in a large sink, or the bathtub. It is imperative to chill the boiling wort down to below 80 degrees as fast as possible. Beer is the most susceptible to infection at, or around, 140 degrees. It is very important to go from 212 to 70 degrees as fast as possible.\"}, {\"编号\": 12, \"标题\": \"Fill the fermentor.\", \"描述\": \"Pour the finished wort through a strainer to remove the hops into the fermentation bucket. If needed, add only pure clean water to top the fermenter off at a little over 5 gallons (18.9 L). Seal it up and shake the heck out of it to incorporate much-needed oxygen into the wort. This is safe to do now that the wort is chilled and very important since it provides the initial oxygen for aerobic yeast reproduction. When the wort is 70-75 degrees (20-24ºC) pitch the yeast. Using a filter is not necessary if a whirlpool is used. A whirlpool is simply when you stir the wort hard and let it spin in the boil kettle for 10 minutes right at flame out (don't worry, the wort is still around 195 degrees, but still keep the lid on while it's spinning to avoid contamination). This process uses centrifugal force to separate solids from the wort just like a centrifuge in a chemistry lab. If the wort is drained off from the side of the pot, no hops or trub will be poured into the fermenter.\"}, {\"编号\": 13, \"标题\": \"Choose the yeast.\", \"描述\": \"If using a liquid yeast, a starter is recommended for healthier pitching rates, although not necessary. If using dry yeast, rehydrate with warm water before pitching.\"}, {\"编号\": 14, \"标题\": \"Transfer to a clean secondary.\", \"描述\": \"After 1-2 weeks of primary fermentation transfer to a clean and sanitized secondary to clear the beer up and let it condition. Use a sanitized siphon to get the beer from the primary to the secondary. The beer will have most of the alcohol in it already so it will be more resistant to nasties in the air. Tips: Avoid sucking on the siphon and getting mouth germs into the beer. Definitely avoid splashing at this stage, since alcohol is easily oxidized and will make the beer funky. If you can pump some CO2 gas (paintball cartridge size will do) into and fill the secondary beforehand you are an ace and will have the best beer transfer possible. Be careful, but realize you aren't getting ready to do surgery or anything.\"}, {\"编号\": 15, \"标题\": \"Bottle or keg the beer.\", \"描述\": \"Kegging much easier than bottling. It costs more money, but in the end it saves you a lot of time. Soda kegs are used with a CO2 tank to pressurize. Clean and sanitize the keg. Fill it with CO2 gas to provide a protective blanket (CO2 is heavier than Oxygen and sinks, thus preventing the alcohol present from oxidizing) and gently siphon the beer in. Seal the lid and chill it in your fridge down to at least 40 degrees. (this is not necessary to chill it but the colder it is the more gas will dissolve into it). Hook it up to the tank to pressurize to 20 psi. It will take about 1 hour of rolling the keg around under pressure (while purging off excess pressure that builds up) to get the CO2 in the beer if you want to drink it right away. Otherwise, let it sit for a couple days at 30 psi. If bottling is your method of choice, soak bottles in PBW or your preferred cleanser for a few hours to remove organics and make peeling off labels easier. Rinse well, then soak in Iodaphor or your preferred sanitizer for at least 5 minutes. Do not rinse. Place bottles on sanitary dishwasher rack or bottle tree to drip dry. Siphon your beer from the secondary carboy to a bottling bucket along with a pre-boiled sugar water solution (1/3 to 1/2 cup of cane sugar to prime depending on your desired level of carbonation). Cap each bottle with sanitized caps (boiling works fine) and let sit at room temperature for at least 2 weeks, more if you have the patience.\"}, {\"编号\": 16, \"标题\": \"Serve.\", \"描述\": \"Lower the pressure to 12 - 15 psi by purging off some gas from the gas inlet. The easiest way to serve is using a cold plate in a cooler. No fridge and it is portable. Run the lines through the cold plate and throw some ice on it. Then run a line with a tap out of the cooler. It is still very important to keep a cold keg cold. Never let your beer warm up unnecessarily.\"}, {\"编号\": 17, \"标题\": \"Drink your creation.\", \"描述\": \"Notice how fresh your beer is. Notice how much better your fresh beer is compared with even top micro brews in your area. If not, try again. You'll get there.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"It is amazing how different your beer will turn out with different strains of yeast. Experiment with different stuff; you won't be disappointed.\\n\", \"Don't get wrapped up in fancy equipment or nit picky methods until you have the concept of a good process first. Concentrate on the overall basic process, keeping things clean and quality ingredients.\\n\", \"Invest in soda kegs and build a kegerator, you'll probably have a lot more fun than messing with bottles.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Cleanliness is godliness but only when brewing beer.\\n\", \"Don't be a hero and try to drink spoiled batches of beer. Some infections can arise from fungi and bacteria harmful to humans in large enough doses. Just dump it out, learn from your mistakes, and try again!\\n\", \"Be careful when rinsing with tap water not to assume your equipment will be sanitary afterward. Most tap water contains trace amounts of pathogens not harmful to humans, but will spoil a fermentation. That is why most sanitizers are \\\"no-rinse.\\\"\\n\", \"Don't confuse \\\"clean\\\" with \\\"sanitary.\\\" Clean simply means just that -clean. Sanitary means free of pathogens and fungi. Something that is clean may not be sanitary.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
6,974 |
How to Brew Green Tea
|
1. Choosing your green tea
1-1. Decide which green tea you'd like to drink.
This isn't as easy as brewing it because there's a lot of choice! You will also need to decide between loose green tea and green tea teabags; while teabags are more convenient and there's nothing wrong with using them for flavor or strength, the loose tea may feel more authentic for a full experience of enjoying your green tea. Here are some types of green tea to consider:
Gunpowder – the Chinese also call this "Pearl Tea". The tea resembles tiny gunpowder pellets. When water is added, the little pellets or pearls unfurl. This one stays freshest longest.
Hyson – This has a very pungent taste, and has thick, yellow-green leaves twisted into thin and long shapes.
Dragonwell – This variety is very popular in China. It tastes mellow and has a light green flavor. The leaves open to reveal a bud when water is added.
Agarwood - mild traditional green tea taste. Make sure you use whole leaf tea vs tea made from the wood which is illegal to purchase.
Pi Lo Chun – In Chinese this name translates to "Green Snail Spring". A rare tea, the little rolled leaves look like snails. Owing to the fact that the tea bushes are grown amid orchards, this tea tends to have the flavors of plums, peaches, and apricots embedded in the leaves.
Matcha – This is powdered green tea leaves. It appears a bright green when water is added.
Gu Zhang Mao Jian – This tea only uses the silvery-tipped young leaves picked within a set 10 day period during spring. While darker than other green teas, it has a smooth and sweet taste.
Sencha – This is a common Japanese green tea. Jewel green matcha is a good choice for those who find other green tea too "grass" tasting.
Gen Mai Cha (genmaicha) – This is sencha tea leaves mixed with fire-roasted rice. The taste is savory and earthy. Also Japanese in origin.
Gyokuro – This Japanese green tea has leaves that look like pine needles, with a sweet and smooth taste. The tea looks green.
Hojicha – A tea with large, unrolled leaves. It tastes nutty.
1-2. Store purchased tea in an airtight, dark container to avoid loss of its qualities; the aromatic oils evaporate if not stored this way.
Purchase small amounts only, and keep it in a cool spot. Green tea over six months old is no longer fresh.
1-3. Consider keeping a separate teapot for your green tea.
While this isn't necessary, it's a common practice for tea drinkers who regularly enjoy green tea because it prevents cross flavoring from black or herbal teas. If this doesn't bother you (indeed, you might not even notice the difference), just be sure to wash your regular teapot well.
Green tea should only be brewed in ceramic, clay, china, glass, or stainless steel teapots. Do not use plastic or aluminum teapots.
2. Brewing loose green tea with a tea ball
2-1. Add the loose green tea to a tea ball (a spoonful is adequate).
A tea ball can also be dropped into a teapot for one or two if easier. Just be sure that the tea ball has the capacity for the amount of cups you're planning on brewing.
2-2. Drop the tea ball into a cup or mug of freshly boiled hot water.
The boiled water should be "first boil" (see the boiling instructions under "Brewing loose green tea in a teapot" for more details). The water should be allowed to sit for a moment as the ideal temperature for water for green tea is 180 °F (82 °C), 80C.
2-3. Put a lid or plate over the cup or mug (unless you're already using a tea ball container equipped with a lid, also known as an "infuser basket").
Leave the tea to steep for a few minutes (3 to 5 minutes is usually enough, unless the tea instructions advise otherwise).
2-4. Remove the tea ball.
2-5. Serve.
Enjoy it with some matcha and chocolate swirl cake.
3. Brewing loose green tea in a teapot or kettle
3-1. Preheat the teapot or kettle
Empty the heating water just before adding the brewing water.
3-2. Boil the water
This is when the water begins to boil but has not yet begun to simmer. The temperature at this stage will be 160ºF (71ºC). Bitter brews come from too high a temperature of water on green tea; prefer a longer steeping time at a cooler temperature instead.
3-3. Place one rounded teaspoon of loose green tea or one teabag per cup into the teapot.
3-4. Pour over the boiling water.
Let it steep for three to five minutes. Three minutes steeping results in light flavor, while five minutes will give you a robust, full flavor. The longer the green tea is left in, the stronger the taste, so you might like to experiment as to which taste works best for you.
For high grade tea such as "gunpowder" types, steeping time may be as few as 10 seconds on first brew. You can reuse the leaves several times, steeping slightly longer with each batch. It is advisable to allow the leaves to rest for a few minutes after the first two brews so as not to burn or overwork them.
Always time the brewing and taste the tea rather than relying on color changes. Some green teas turn dark quickly but are not ready, while some stay light but are ready sooner than you may think.
3-5. Pour into a sieve (to catch any loose tea, if you don't want it in your drink) over cups, mugs, or glasses.
It is now ready to be enjoyed.
In addition, Chinese green tea connoisseurs will also use a snifter cup to enhance the tea drinking experience. These cups are much smaller in diameter but longer in length to allow the scent to waft into the nostrils as you sip out of your main cup.
4. Brewing green tea teabags
4-1. Take out the green tea teabag.
4-2. Boil water and pour water into a mug.
Or you can just microwave a cup of water. The boiled water should be "first boil" (see the boiling instructions under "Brewing loose green tea in a teapot" for more details).
4-3. Add the green tea bag to the cup of boiling water.
4-4. Allow the tea bag to steep in the hot water for 3-5 minutes.
4-5. Remove the teabag.
Or, if preferred, you can leave the tea bag in the mug or you can remove the tea bag before enjoying your drink. It's your choice.
4-6. Serve.
Green tea is not usually sweetened, but if you wish to, then add sugar or honey to suit your taste. Now you're ready to enjoy green tea.
Tips
Green tea has been shown to boost your immune system in various studies, including preventing cancer development and lowering cholesterol.[7]
X
Research source
Throw the used tea leaves on the garden as mulch.
If you want to try green tea teabags, look for a sampler box so that you can try different types of green tea, including flavored versions. That way, you can decide which ones you like the most.
Warnings
Avoid using a perforated spoon; the handle prevents proper steeping and prevents the flavor from being properly infused.
Green tea and milk is a recent innovation, probably resulting from the enjoyment of chai lattes and the use of powdered matcha tea. Although many new tea drinkers may enjoy it this way, it's not a traditional way to drink green tea. If it's your thing, then by all means do it, but for everyone else, remember not to add milk!
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:58:42",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Choosing your green tea\\n1-1. Decide which green tea you'd like to drink.\\nThis isn't as easy as brewing it because there's a lot of choice! You will also need to decide between loose green tea and green tea teabags; while teabags are more convenient and there's nothing wrong with using them for flavor or strength, the loose tea may feel more authentic for a full experience of enjoying your green tea. Here are some types of green tea to consider:\\nGunpowder – the Chinese also call this \\\"Pearl Tea\\\". The tea resembles tiny gunpowder pellets. When water is added, the little pellets or pearls unfurl. This one stays freshest longest.\\nHyson – This has a very pungent taste, and has thick, yellow-green leaves twisted into thin and long shapes.\\nDragonwell – This variety is very popular in China. It tastes mellow and has a light green flavor. The leaves open to reveal a bud when water is added.\\nAgarwood - mild traditional green tea taste. Make sure you use whole leaf tea vs tea made from the wood which is illegal to purchase.\\nPi Lo Chun – In Chinese this name translates to \\\"Green Snail Spring\\\". A rare tea, the little rolled leaves look like snails. Owing to the fact that the tea bushes are grown amid orchards, this tea tends to have the flavors of plums, peaches, and apricots embedded in the leaves.\\nMatcha – This is powdered green tea leaves. It appears a bright green when water is added.\\nGu Zhang Mao Jian – This tea only uses the silvery-tipped young leaves picked within a set 10 day period during spring. While darker than other green teas, it has a smooth and sweet taste.\\nSencha – This is a common Japanese green tea. Jewel green matcha is a good choice for those who find other green tea too \\\"grass\\\" tasting.\\n\\nGen Mai Cha (genmaicha) – This is sencha tea leaves mixed with fire-roasted rice. The taste is savory and earthy. Also Japanese in origin.\\nGyokuro – This Japanese green tea has leaves that look like pine needles, with a sweet and smooth taste. The tea looks green.\\nHojicha – A tea with large, unrolled leaves. It tastes nutty.\\n1-2. Store purchased tea in an airtight, dark container to avoid loss of its qualities; the aromatic oils evaporate if not stored this way.\\nPurchase small amounts only, and keep it in a cool spot. Green tea over six months old is no longer fresh.\\n1-3. Consider keeping a separate teapot for your green tea.\\nWhile this isn't necessary, it's a common practice for tea drinkers who regularly enjoy green tea because it prevents cross flavoring from black or herbal teas. If this doesn't bother you (indeed, you might not even notice the difference), just be sure to wash your regular teapot well.\\nGreen tea should only be brewed in ceramic, clay, china, glass, or stainless steel teapots. Do not use plastic or aluminum teapots.\\n2. Brewing loose green tea with a tea ball\\n2-1. Add the loose green tea to a tea ball (a spoonful is adequate).\\nA tea ball can also be dropped into a teapot for one or two if easier. Just be sure that the tea ball has the capacity for the amount of cups you're planning on brewing.\\n2-2. Drop the tea ball into a cup or mug of freshly boiled hot water.\\nThe boiled water should be \\\"first boil\\\" (see the boiling instructions under \\\"Brewing loose green tea in a teapot\\\" for more details). The water should be allowed to sit for a moment as the ideal temperature for water for green tea is 180 °F (82 °C), 80C.\\n2-3. Put a lid or plate over the cup or mug (unless you're already using a tea ball container equipped with a lid, also known as an \\\"infuser basket\\\").\\nLeave the tea to steep for a few minutes (3 to 5 minutes is usually enough, unless the tea instructions advise otherwise).\\n2-4. Remove the tea ball.\\n\\n2-5. Serve.\\nEnjoy it with some matcha and chocolate swirl cake.\\n3. Brewing loose green tea in a teapot or kettle\\n3-1. Preheat the teapot or kettle\\nEmpty the heating water just before adding the brewing water.\\n3-2. Boil the water\\nThis is when the water begins to boil but has not yet begun to simmer. The temperature at this stage will be 160ºF (71ºC). Bitter brews come from too high a temperature of water on green tea; prefer a longer steeping time at a cooler temperature instead.\\n3-3. Place one rounded teaspoon of loose green tea or one teabag per cup into the teapot.\\n\\n3-4. Pour over the boiling water.\\nLet it steep for three to five minutes. Three minutes steeping results in light flavor, while five minutes will give you a robust, full flavor. The longer the green tea is left in, the stronger the taste, so you might like to experiment as to which taste works best for you.\\nFor high grade tea such as \\\"gunpowder\\\" types, steeping time may be as few as 10 seconds on first brew. You can reuse the leaves several times, steeping slightly longer with each batch. It is advisable to allow the leaves to rest for a few minutes after the first two brews so as not to burn or overwork them.\\nAlways time the brewing and taste the tea rather than relying on color changes. Some green teas turn dark quickly but are not ready, while some stay light but are ready sooner than you may think.\\n3-5. Pour into a sieve (to catch any loose tea, if you don't want it in your drink) over cups, mugs, or glasses.\\nIt is now ready to be enjoyed.\\nIn addition, Chinese green tea connoisseurs will also use a snifter cup to enhance the tea drinking experience. These cups are much smaller in diameter but longer in length to allow the scent to waft into the nostrils as you sip out of your main cup.\\n4. Brewing green tea teabags\\n4-1. Take out the green tea teabag.\\n\\n4-2. Boil water and pour water into a mug.\\nOr you can just microwave a cup of water. The boiled water should be \\\"first boil\\\" (see the boiling instructions under \\\"Brewing loose green tea in a teapot\\\" for more details).\\n4-3. Add the green tea bag to the cup of boiling water.\\n\\n4-4. Allow the tea bag to steep in the hot water for 3-5 minutes.\\n\\n4-5. Remove the teabag.\\nOr, if preferred, you can leave the tea bag in the mug or you can remove the tea bag before enjoying your drink. It's your choice.\\n4-6. Serve.\\nGreen tea is not usually sweetened, but if you wish to, then add sugar or honey to suit your taste. Now you're ready to enjoy green tea.\\nTips\\nGreen tea has been shown to boost your immune system in various studies, including preventing cancer development and lowering cholesterol.[7]\\nX\\nResearch source\\nThrow the used tea leaves on the garden as mulch.\\nIf you want to try green tea teabags, look for a sampler box so that you can try different types of green tea, including flavored versions. That way, you can decide which ones you like the most.\\nWarnings\\nAvoid using a perforated spoon; the handle prevents proper steeping and prevents the flavor from being properly infused.\\nGreen tea and milk is a recent innovation, probably resulting from the enjoyment of chai lattes and the use of powdered matcha tea. Although many new tea drinkers may enjoy it this way, it's not a traditional way to drink green tea. If it's your thing, then by all means do it, but for everyone else, remember not to add milk!\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Green tea has served as both a healing tea and a refreshing tea since ancient times. Renowned for numerous health giving properties, it is even considered an important nutritional means for warding off cancer.\\nBrewing green tea is simple and you don't even need to worry about milk, lemon, or sugar, as green tea is meant to be enjoyed in its original, unadulterated state. The only thing you might wish to account for is how to lessen the amount of caffeine in the pot, something you can learn more about by reading How to Minimize Green Tea Caffeine. In this article, you'll learn about choosing your green tea, and brewing it either with a tea ball, in a teapot, or by teabag.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Choosing your green tea\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Decide which green tea you'd like to drink.\", \"描述\": \"This isn't as easy as brewing it because there's a lot of choice! You will also need to decide between loose green tea and green tea teabags; while teabags are more convenient and there's nothing wrong with using them for flavor or strength, the loose tea may feel more authentic for a full experience of enjoying your green tea. Here are some types of green tea to consider:\\nGunpowder – the Chinese also call this \\\"Pearl Tea\\\". The tea resembles tiny gunpowder pellets. When water is added, the little pellets or pearls unfurl. This one stays freshest longest.\\nHyson – This has a very pungent taste, and has thick, yellow-green leaves twisted into thin and long shapes.\\nDragonwell – This variety is very popular in China. It tastes mellow and has a light green flavor. The leaves open to reveal a bud when water is added.\\nAgarwood - mild traditional green tea taste. Make sure you use whole leaf tea vs tea made from the wood which is illegal to purchase.\\nPi Lo Chun – In Chinese this name translates to \\\"Green Snail Spring\\\". A rare tea, the little rolled leaves look like snails. Owing to the fact that the tea bushes are grown amid orchards, this tea tends to have the flavors of plums, peaches, and apricots embedded in the leaves.\\nMatcha – This is powdered green tea leaves. It appears a bright green when water is added.\\nGu Zhang Mao Jian – This tea only uses the silvery-tipped young leaves picked within a set 10 day period during spring. While darker than other green teas, it has a smooth and sweet taste.\\nSencha – This is a common Japanese green tea. Jewel green matcha is a good choice for those who find other green tea too \\\"grass\\\" tasting.\\n\\nGen Mai Cha (genmaicha) – This is sencha tea leaves mixed with fire-roasted rice. The taste is savory and earthy. Also Japanese in origin.\\nGyokuro – This Japanese green tea has leaves that look like pine needles, with a sweet and smooth taste. The tea looks green.\\nHojicha – A tea with large, unrolled leaves. It tastes nutty.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Store purchased tea in an airtight, dark container to avoid loss of its qualities; the aromatic oils evaporate if not stored this way.\", \"描述\": \"Purchase small amounts only, and keep it in a cool spot. Green tea over six months old is no longer fresh.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Consider keeping a separate teapot for your green tea.\", \"描述\": \"While this isn't necessary, it's a common practice for tea drinkers who regularly enjoy green tea because it prevents cross flavoring from black or herbal teas. If this doesn't bother you (indeed, you might not even notice the difference), just be sure to wash your regular teapot well.\\nGreen tea should only be brewed in ceramic, clay, china, glass, or stainless steel teapots. Do not use plastic or aluminum teapots.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Brewing loose green tea with a tea ball\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Add the loose green tea to a tea ball (a spoonful is adequate).\", \"描述\": \"A tea ball can also be dropped into a teapot for one or two if easier. Just be sure that the tea ball has the capacity for the amount of cups you're planning on brewing.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Drop the tea ball into a cup or mug of freshly boiled hot water.\", \"描述\": \"The boiled water should be \\\"first boil\\\" (see the boiling instructions under \\\"Brewing loose green tea in a teapot\\\" for more details). The water should be allowed to sit for a moment as the ideal temperature for water for green tea is 180 °F (82 °C), 80C.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Put a lid or plate over the cup or mug (unless you're already using a tea ball container equipped with a lid, also known as an \\\"infuser basket\\\").\", \"描述\": \"Leave the tea to steep for a few minutes (3 to 5 minutes is usually enough, unless the tea instructions advise otherwise).\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Remove the tea ball.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Serve.\", \"描述\": \"Enjoy it with some matcha and chocolate swirl cake.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Brewing loose green tea in a teapot or kettle\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Preheat the teapot or kettle\", \"描述\": \"Empty the heating water just before adding the brewing water.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Boil the water\", \"描述\": \"This is when the water begins to boil but has not yet begun to simmer. The temperature at this stage will be 160ºF (71ºC). Bitter brews come from too high a temperature of water on green tea; prefer a longer steeping time at a cooler temperature instead.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Place one rounded teaspoon of loose green tea or one teabag per cup into the teapot.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Pour over the boiling water.\", \"描述\": \"Let it steep for three to five minutes. Three minutes steeping results in light flavor, while five minutes will give you a robust, full flavor. The longer the green tea is left in, the stronger the taste, so you might like to experiment as to which taste works best for you.\\nFor high grade tea such as \\\"gunpowder\\\" types, steeping time may be as few as 10 seconds on first brew. You can reuse the leaves several times, steeping slightly longer with each batch. It is advisable to allow the leaves to rest for a few minutes after the first two brews so as not to burn or overwork them.\\nAlways time the brewing and taste the tea rather than relying on color changes. Some green teas turn dark quickly but are not ready, while some stay light but are ready sooner than you may think.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Pour into a sieve (to catch any loose tea, if you don't want it in your drink) over cups, mugs, or glasses.\", \"描述\": \"It is now ready to be enjoyed.\\nIn addition, Chinese green tea connoisseurs will also use a snifter cup to enhance the tea drinking experience. These cups are much smaller in diameter but longer in length to allow the scent to waft into the nostrils as you sip out of your main cup.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Brewing green tea teabags\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Take out the green tea teabag.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Boil water and pour water into a mug.\", \"描述\": \"Or you can just microwave a cup of water. The boiled water should be \\\"first boil\\\" (see the boiling instructions under \\\"Brewing loose green tea in a teapot\\\" for more details).\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Add the green tea bag to the cup of boiling water.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Allow the tea bag to steep in the hot water for 3-5 minutes.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Remove the teabag.\", \"描述\": \"Or, if preferred, you can leave the tea bag in the mug or you can remove the tea bag before enjoying your drink. It's your choice.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Serve.\", \"描述\": \"Green tea is not usually sweetened, but if you wish to, then add sugar or honey to suit your taste. Now you're ready to enjoy green tea.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Green tea has been shown to boost your immune system in various studies, including preventing cancer development and lowering cholesterol.[7]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\", \"Throw the used tea leaves on the garden as mulch.\\n\", \"If you want to try green tea teabags, look for a sampler box so that you can try different types of green tea, including flavored versions. That way, you can decide which ones you like the most.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Avoid using a perforated spoon; the handle prevents proper steeping and prevents the flavor from being properly infused.\\n\", \"Green tea and milk is a recent innovation, probably resulting from the enjoyment of chai lattes and the use of powdered matcha tea. Although many new tea drinkers may enjoy it this way, it's not a traditional way to drink green tea. If it's your thing, then by all means do it, but for everyone else, remember not to add milk!\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
6,975 |
How to Brew Kombucha
|
1. Making the Tea
1-1. Bring 3.5 US quarts (3.3 L) of filtered water to a boil in a tea kettle.
Pour the water into the kettle, then place the kettle over heat to boil the water. Use filtered water to ensure there’s no chlorine in it, since chlorine can harm the bacteria you need to ferment your tea later on.
If your water isn’t filtered, the minerals in the water may also affect the flavor of your kombucha.
This is the amount of water you should use for making kombucha in a 1 gallon (3.8 L) glass jar.
1-2. Remove the water from heat, then steep your tea bags in it for 5 minutes.
Take the kettle off of heat first, since you don’t need the water to be boiling in order to steep the tea bags. After 5 minutes, take out the tea bags and set them aside.
Avoid over-steeping the tea, since this can result in your kombucha being overly bitter.
1-3. Pour 1 cup (200 grams) of sugar into the tea and stir it until it dissolves.
Use a wooden spoon to stir in the sugar as you pour it into the tea. If you’re wary of making your kombucha too sweet, try only adding ½ cup (100 grams) of sugar to the tea.
It shouldn’t take more than a few minutes for the sugar to completely dissolve in the tea.
1-4. Let the tea cool to room temperature, then pour it into the glass jar.
It will probably take a few hours for the tea to completely cool down. The SCOBY is sensitive to high temperatures, so it’s very important that you wait until the tea has cooled before moving on to the next step.
You can speed up the cooling process by placing your kettle in an ice bath for around 30 minutes.
Make sure the tea is at most 85 °F (29 °C) before adding the SCOBY. If the side of the kettle feels hot to the touch, use a thermometer to check the temperature and make sure it's below 85 °F (29 °C).
2. Adding the SCOBY and Fermenting the Tea
2-1. Use clean hands to add the SCOBY to the glass jar.
Wash your hands with soap and water before handling the SCOBY to make sure they’re clean. Remove the SCOBY from the starter liquid that it came in and lay it on top of the tea in your glass jar.
Don’t worry about what the SCOBY does when it’s in the tea; it’s perfectly normal for it to float, sink, or even go sideways.
2-2. Pour the starter liquid into the jar and cover it with a tight weave cloth.
Add enough starter liquid to the tea so that your jar is full almost up to the top. Then, lay the cloth over the jar and use a rubber band to secure it around the lid.
A tight weave cloth will have strands of fabric in close proximity to each other and will keep bugs out of your brew while allowing air to circulate. Cheese cloth is the best cloth to use for brewing kombucha, although coffee filters will also work.
Make sure whatever cloth you use is breathable. Your tea needs some exposure to air in order to brew properly.
2-3. Place the jar in a room-temperature spot out of direct sunlight to brew.
Keep the jar away from vents or other sources of fluctuating temperatures. Place it somewhere where it’s guaranteed to stay at a temperature of around 75 to 84 °F (24 to 29 °C) for up to 2 weeks. Leave the tea to brew for 7-14 days.
Avoid putting your jar in a closet or cupboard, as it needs good airflow in order to brew.
2-4. Taste your tea after 7 days to see if it’s ready to be consumed.
Carefully sip the tea with a straw in order to taste it. If the taste of the kombucha is to your liking, remove the jar from the fermenting spot. If it needs more time to ferment, put it back and test it again after a few days.
The longer kombucha ferments, the less sweet and tangier it will taste.
2-5. Set aside the SCOBY if you want to use it again.
Take the SCOBY out of your glass jar and put it in its own separate jar. Pour some kombucha in the jar with it in order to keep it alive.
You can also use a store-bought “SCOBY Hotel” to store your leftover SCOBY after you’re done brewing kombucha.
2-6. Bottle your kombucha and store it in the refrigerator.
Use a funnel to pour the kombucha from the glass jar into smaller glass bottles. Add flavoring to each bottle before pouring in the kombucha to make flavored kombucha.
Your kombucha will never “go bad” in the refrigerator. However, it may eventually become too sour to drink. How long this takes varies between different brews.
Some things you can add to your kombucha to flavor it include fresh fruit, fruit juice, fruit syrups, and herbs.
Tips
You can order a SCOBY online from various retailers who ship cultured products to consumers. You can also obtain a SCOBY from someone who has brewed their own kombucha or try growing your own!
Warnings
Use glass containers instead of metal or plastic ones. Metal can have an adverse reaction with the acidic kombucha, while plastic may absorb the bacteria.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:58:43",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Making the Tea\\n1-1. Bring 3.5 US quarts (3.3 L) of filtered water to a boil in a tea kettle.\\nPour the water into the kettle, then place the kettle over heat to boil the water. Use filtered water to ensure there’s no chlorine in it, since chlorine can harm the bacteria you need to ferment your tea later on.\\nIf your water isn’t filtered, the minerals in the water may also affect the flavor of your kombucha.\\nThis is the amount of water you should use for making kombucha in a 1 gallon (3.8 L) glass jar.\\n1-2. Remove the water from heat, then steep your tea bags in it for 5 minutes.\\nTake the kettle off of heat first, since you don’t need the water to be boiling in order to steep the tea bags. After 5 minutes, take out the tea bags and set them aside.\\nAvoid over-steeping the tea, since this can result in your kombucha being overly bitter.\\n1-3. Pour 1 cup (200 grams) of sugar into the tea and stir it until it dissolves.\\nUse a wooden spoon to stir in the sugar as you pour it into the tea. If you’re wary of making your kombucha too sweet, try only adding ½ cup (100 grams) of sugar to the tea.\\nIt shouldn’t take more than a few minutes for the sugar to completely dissolve in the tea.\\n1-4. Let the tea cool to room temperature, then pour it into the glass jar.\\nIt will probably take a few hours for the tea to completely cool down. The SCOBY is sensitive to high temperatures, so it’s very important that you wait until the tea has cooled before moving on to the next step.\\nYou can speed up the cooling process by placing your kettle in an ice bath for around 30 minutes.\\nMake sure the tea is at most 85 °F (29 °C) before adding the SCOBY. If the side of the kettle feels hot to the touch, use a thermometer to check the temperature and make sure it's below 85 °F (29 °C).\\n2. Adding the SCOBY and Fermenting the Tea\\n2-1. Use clean hands to add the SCOBY to the glass jar.\\nWash your hands with soap and water before handling the SCOBY to make sure they’re clean. Remove the SCOBY from the starter liquid that it came in and lay it on top of the tea in your glass jar.\\nDon’t worry about what the SCOBY does when it’s in the tea; it’s perfectly normal for it to float, sink, or even go sideways.\\n2-2. Pour the starter liquid into the jar and cover it with a tight weave cloth.\\nAdd enough starter liquid to the tea so that your jar is full almost up to the top. Then, lay the cloth over the jar and use a rubber band to secure it around the lid.\\nA tight weave cloth will have strands of fabric in close proximity to each other and will keep bugs out of your brew while allowing air to circulate. Cheese cloth is the best cloth to use for brewing kombucha, although coffee filters will also work.\\nMake sure whatever cloth you use is breathable. Your tea needs some exposure to air in order to brew properly.\\n2-3. Place the jar in a room-temperature spot out of direct sunlight to brew.\\nKeep the jar away from vents or other sources of fluctuating temperatures. Place it somewhere where it’s guaranteed to stay at a temperature of around 75 to 84 °F (24 to 29 °C) for up to 2 weeks. Leave the tea to brew for 7-14 days.\\nAvoid putting your jar in a closet or cupboard, as it needs good airflow in order to brew.\\n2-4. Taste your tea after 7 days to see if it’s ready to be consumed.\\nCarefully sip the tea with a straw in order to taste it. If the taste of the kombucha is to your liking, remove the jar from the fermenting spot. If it needs more time to ferment, put it back and test it again after a few days.\\nThe longer kombucha ferments, the less sweet and tangier it will taste.\\n2-5. Set aside the SCOBY if you want to use it again.\\nTake the SCOBY out of your glass jar and put it in its own separate jar. Pour some kombucha in the jar with it in order to keep it alive.\\nYou can also use a store-bought “SCOBY Hotel” to store your leftover SCOBY after you’re done brewing kombucha.\\n2-6. Bottle your kombucha and store it in the refrigerator.\\nUse a funnel to pour the kombucha from the glass jar into smaller glass bottles. Add flavoring to each bottle before pouring in the kombucha to make flavored kombucha.\\nYour kombucha will never “go bad” in the refrigerator. However, it may eventually become too sour to drink. How long this takes varies between different brews.\\nSome things you can add to your kombucha to flavor it include fresh fruit, fruit juice, fruit syrups, and herbs.\\nTips\\nYou can order a SCOBY online from various retailers who ship cultured products to consumers. You can also obtain a SCOBY from someone who has brewed their own kombucha or try growing your own!\\nWarnings\\nUse glass containers instead of metal or plastic ones. Metal can have an adverse reaction with the acidic kombucha, while plastic may absorb the bacteria.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Kombucha is a fermented tea drink that is widely popular for its probiotic health benefits. While you may have had kombucha at a specialty tea shop or grocery store, it’s also perfectly safe to make at home, as long as you take the necessary precautions. All you need is a SCOBY (symbiotic culture of bacteria and yeast), black tea, sugar, a starter liquid, and a little patience!\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Making the Tea\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Bring 3.5 US quarts (3.3 L) of filtered water to a boil in a tea kettle.\", \"描述\": \"Pour the water into the kettle, then place the kettle over heat to boil the water. Use filtered water to ensure there’s no chlorine in it, since chlorine can harm the bacteria you need to ferment your tea later on.\\nIf your water isn’t filtered, the minerals in the water may also affect the flavor of your kombucha.\\nThis is the amount of water you should use for making kombucha in a 1 gallon (3.8 L) glass jar.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Remove the water from heat, then steep your tea bags in it for 5 minutes.\", \"描述\": \"Take the kettle off of heat first, since you don’t need the water to be boiling in order to steep the tea bags. After 5 minutes, take out the tea bags and set them aside.\\nAvoid over-steeping the tea, since this can result in your kombucha being overly bitter.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Pour 1 cup (200 grams) of sugar into the tea and stir it until it dissolves.\", \"描述\": \"Use a wooden spoon to stir in the sugar as you pour it into the tea. If you’re wary of making your kombucha too sweet, try only adding ½ cup (100 grams) of sugar to the tea.\\nIt shouldn’t take more than a few minutes for the sugar to completely dissolve in the tea.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Let the tea cool to room temperature, then pour it into the glass jar.\", \"描述\": \"It will probably take a few hours for the tea to completely cool down. The SCOBY is sensitive to high temperatures, so it’s very important that you wait until the tea has cooled before moving on to the next step.\\nYou can speed up the cooling process by placing your kettle in an ice bath for around 30 minutes.\\nMake sure the tea is at most 85 °F (29 °C) before adding the SCOBY. If the side of the kettle feels hot to the touch, use a thermometer to check the temperature and make sure it's below 85 °F (29 °C).\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Adding the SCOBY and Fermenting the Tea\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Use clean hands to add the SCOBY to the glass jar.\", \"描述\": \"Wash your hands with soap and water before handling the SCOBY to make sure they’re clean. Remove the SCOBY from the starter liquid that it came in and lay it on top of the tea in your glass jar.\\nDon’t worry about what the SCOBY does when it’s in the tea; it’s perfectly normal for it to float, sink, or even go sideways.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Pour the starter liquid into the jar and cover it with a tight weave cloth.\", \"描述\": \"Add enough starter liquid to the tea so that your jar is full almost up to the top. Then, lay the cloth over the jar and use a rubber band to secure it around the lid.\\nA tight weave cloth will have strands of fabric in close proximity to each other and will keep bugs out of your brew while allowing air to circulate. Cheese cloth is the best cloth to use for brewing kombucha, although coffee filters will also work.\\nMake sure whatever cloth you use is breathable. Your tea needs some exposure to air in order to brew properly.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Place the jar in a room-temperature spot out of direct sunlight to brew.\", \"描述\": \"Keep the jar away from vents or other sources of fluctuating temperatures. Place it somewhere where it’s guaranteed to stay at a temperature of around 75 to 84 °F (24 to 29 °C) for up to 2 weeks. Leave the tea to brew for 7-14 days.\\nAvoid putting your jar in a closet or cupboard, as it needs good airflow in order to brew.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Taste your tea after 7 days to see if it’s ready to be consumed.\", \"描述\": \"Carefully sip the tea with a straw in order to taste it. If the taste of the kombucha is to your liking, remove the jar from the fermenting spot. If it needs more time to ferment, put it back and test it again after a few days.\\nThe longer kombucha ferments, the less sweet and tangier it will taste.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Set aside the SCOBY if you want to use it again.\", \"描述\": \"Take the SCOBY out of your glass jar and put it in its own separate jar. Pour some kombucha in the jar with it in order to keep it alive.\\nYou can also use a store-bought “SCOBY Hotel” to store your leftover SCOBY after you’re done brewing kombucha.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Bottle your kombucha and store it in the refrigerator.\", \"描述\": \"Use a funnel to pour the kombucha from the glass jar into smaller glass bottles. Add flavoring to each bottle before pouring in the kombucha to make flavored kombucha.\\nYour kombucha will never “go bad” in the refrigerator. However, it may eventually become too sour to drink. How long this takes varies between different brews.\\nSome things you can add to your kombucha to flavor it include fresh fruit, fruit juice, fruit syrups, and herbs.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"You can order a SCOBY online from various retailers who ship cultured products to consumers. You can also obtain a SCOBY from someone who has brewed their own kombucha or try growing your own!\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Use glass containers instead of metal or plastic ones. Metal can have an adverse reaction with the acidic kombucha, while plastic may absorb the bacteria.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
6,976 |
How to Brew Loose Leaf Tea
|
1. Mastering Tea-Steeping Basics
1-1. Pour fresh, cold water into a saucepan or kettle.
Don’t use distilled or previously boiled water as it may negatively affect the taste of your tea. Instead, start with fresh, cool water from the tap. Use an electric kettle, stovetop kettle, or a saucepan to warm up the water.
If your local water is especially hard (i.e. high in mineral content), consider using bottled water for a more pleasant taste.
1-2. Heat the water until it reaches 160 to 212 °F (71 to 100 °C).
Remove the water from its heat source once it begins to steam, simmer, or reach a rolling boil. Depending on the tea variety you’re preparing, you may need it to be slightly warmer or cooler to bring out the best flavors in the leaves. Use an instant-read thermometer to get the most accurate temperature.
If you prefer, you can boil the water and allow it to cool down to the correct temperature before adding it to the tea leaves.
In general, white and green teas can be brewed at a lower temperature with the water just starting to steam, while oolong tea is typically best prepared at a moderate simmering temperature. Black and Puerh teas can withstand a higher temperature when the water hits a rolling boil.
1-3. Weight out 2 to 3 grams of loose leaf tea for every 6 fl oz (180 mL) of water.
Since tea leaves come in different shapes and sizes, it’s best to measure out your tea by weight (i.e. grams) rather than by volume. But if you do measure by volume, start with roughly 1 teaspoon for smaller leaves and about 1 tablespoon for larger leaves. Spoon out your desired amount of tea into a tea strainer or teapot, depending on how you plan to steep it.
A teacup holds about 6 fl oz (180 mL) of water, but since most coffee mugs hold about 10 to 12 fl oz (300 to 350 mL) of water, you may need to double the amount of loose leaf tea you use in a larger mug.
The amount of tea you decide to use is completely a matter of taste. Steep more or less to see which flavor you prefer.
1-4. Steep the tea in hot water for 3 to 5 minutes.
Pour the hot water directly over the tea leaves and allow the flavors to seep out for a few minutes. Different tea varieties require slightly different steeping times, so be sure to follow the instructions on the packaging. If you’re not sure how long to steep the leaves, start with 3 minutes for your first cup. Then add 30 more seconds for each subsequent cup until you find the perfect taste.
Generally speaking, green and oolong teas can be steeped for about 3 minutes, white tea for 4 minutes, and black and Puerh teas for 5 minutes.
Avoid steeping tea longer than 5 minutes; it will only taste bitter. If you want a stronger cup, just add more tea leaves and keep the timing the same.
Since herbal teas don’t contain any actual tea leaves, they can often be left to steep longer without taking on a bitter flavor.
1-5. Remove the tea leaves from the water once they’ve steeped.
How you do this will depend on the type of strainer you’re using. Basket-style strainers, metal or silicone infusers, and filter bags can be lifted out of your teapot or cup to stop the infusion. Place the strainer on a spoon rest or saucer to catch the drips from the soggy tea leaves.
If you steeped the tea directly in the teapot, hold a strainer over your teacup to catch the damp leaves as you pour out the tea.
Discard the used tea leaves while they’re damp, or wait until they’ve dried out to more easily tip them out of the strainer.
2. Using Tea Strainers
2-1. Place the tea leaves directly into a tea strainer for easy cleanup.
Place a basket-style tea strainer into a cup or teapot first. Measure out the loose leaf tea into the strainer and pour the hot water directly over it. Make sure you completely cover the tea leaves with water so that they steep properly.
After a period of 3 to 5 minutes, simply remove the strainer and the damp tea leaves.
2-2. Choose a disposable filter bag for fine, powdery teas.
Buy a packet of disposable tea filter bags from a tea shop or grocery store. Use one when you’re preparing especially fine tea which tends to slip through mesh strainers easily. Keep the bag upright with the opening well above the water level so the tea leaves don’t float out.
You can also use a filter bag if you just want to make 1 cup at a time with easy cleanup.
2-3. Use a mesh, basket-style tea strainer for larger tea leaves.
Most loose leaf teas can be successfully steeped in these types of strainers. Choose one that fits correctly within the opening of the cup or teapot you’ll be using; it shouldn’t shift around or sink into the vessel, otherwise the tea leaves will escape.
Try a travel tea mug with a built-in basket strainer if you’ll be on the go. Just remember to remove the tea after it’s steeped for 3 to 5 minutes.
While a short or rounded basket strainer may work for a single cup, use a deeper basket to steep loose leaf tea in a deep mug or teapot.
2-4. Avoid using tea balls or infusers for large or fine leaves.
Metal tea balls and silicone tea strainers are popular since they come in playful designs, but keep in mind the limited practicality of these tools. Refrain from using them for large-leafed tea as they won’t leave much room for the leaves to unfurl as they become hydrated. Additionally, avoid using a tea ball or infuser for fine, powdery teas as the tea leaves may slip through the holes easily.
If you’re steeping medium-sized tea leaves in small quantities of water, a tea ball or infuser might not pose any problems.
Hinged tea balls are difficult to fill and the mechanisms can be tricky to open and close, especially when the metal is hot.
2-5. Leave plenty of room for the tea leaves to expand in the strainer.
Loose leaf tea leaves can grow up to 5 times their original size once you hydrate them with hot water. For this reason, aim to leave plenty of space in the tea strainer or filter bag. Don’t overfill it with too much tea.
A mesh basket-style strainer will allow the tea to expand, while a tea ball may compress the leaves.
A little extra space will allow the water to flow around the tea leaves so you’ll have a better result.
2-6. Strain the tea after it steeps in the teapot if you prefer.
This is a useful technique if you don’t have a tea strainer that fits correctly in your teapot. Instead of placing the leaves into a strainer, what you can do is measure out the tea leaves and drop them directly into your teapot. After the leaves have steeped, hold a tea strainer over your cup. Carefully pour the liquid into the cup and you’ll see the strainer catch the leaves.
Since there will still be leaves sitting in the teapot, the tea will grow more bitter as it continues steeping.
Tips
To keep the tea warmer for a longer period of time, pre-warm your teapot or cup by sloshing some boiling water around inside it. Tip this out before adding the tea and the rest of the heated water.[14]
X
Research source
Alternatively, try covering the teapot with a quilted tea cozy to keep it warm.
Delicate green and white teas are best consumed immediately while more robust black teas can be enjoyed for a longer period of time.[15]
X
Research source
After you’ve poured the tea into your cup, add milk, honey, lemon, or sugar to taste. Just avoid adding milk and lemon at the same time as the milk may curdle.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:58:43",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Mastering Tea-Steeping Basics\\n1-1. Pour fresh, cold water into a saucepan or kettle.\\nDon’t use distilled or previously boiled water as it may negatively affect the taste of your tea. Instead, start with fresh, cool water from the tap. Use an electric kettle, stovetop kettle, or a saucepan to warm up the water.\\nIf your local water is especially hard (i.e. high in mineral content), consider using bottled water for a more pleasant taste.\\n1-2. Heat the water until it reaches 160 to 212 °F (71 to 100 °C).\\nRemove the water from its heat source once it begins to steam, simmer, or reach a rolling boil. Depending on the tea variety you’re preparing, you may need it to be slightly warmer or cooler to bring out the best flavors in the leaves. Use an instant-read thermometer to get the most accurate temperature.\\nIf you prefer, you can boil the water and allow it to cool down to the correct temperature before adding it to the tea leaves.\\nIn general, white and green teas can be brewed at a lower temperature with the water just starting to steam, while oolong tea is typically best prepared at a moderate simmering temperature. Black and Puerh teas can withstand a higher temperature when the water hits a rolling boil.\\n1-3. Weight out 2 to 3 grams of loose leaf tea for every 6 fl oz (180 mL) of water.\\nSince tea leaves come in different shapes and sizes, it’s best to measure out your tea by weight (i.e. grams) rather than by volume. But if you do measure by volume, start with roughly 1 teaspoon for smaller leaves and about 1 tablespoon for larger leaves. Spoon out your desired amount of tea into a tea strainer or teapot, depending on how you plan to steep it.\\nA teacup holds about 6 fl oz (180 mL) of water, but since most coffee mugs hold about 10 to 12 fl oz (300 to 350 mL) of water, you may need to double the amount of loose leaf tea you use in a larger mug.\\nThe amount of tea you decide to use is completely a matter of taste. Steep more or less to see which flavor you prefer.\\n1-4. Steep the tea in hot water for 3 to 5 minutes.\\nPour the hot water directly over the tea leaves and allow the flavors to seep out for a few minutes. Different tea varieties require slightly different steeping times, so be sure to follow the instructions on the packaging. If you’re not sure how long to steep the leaves, start with 3 minutes for your first cup. Then add 30 more seconds for each subsequent cup until you find the perfect taste.\\nGenerally speaking, green and oolong teas can be steeped for about 3 minutes, white tea for 4 minutes, and black and Puerh teas for 5 minutes.\\nAvoid steeping tea longer than 5 minutes; it will only taste bitter. If you want a stronger cup, just add more tea leaves and keep the timing the same.\\nSince herbal teas don’t contain any actual tea leaves, they can often be left to steep longer without taking on a bitter flavor.\\n1-5. Remove the tea leaves from the water once they’ve steeped.\\nHow you do this will depend on the type of strainer you’re using. Basket-style strainers, metal or silicone infusers, and filter bags can be lifted out of your teapot or cup to stop the infusion. Place the strainer on a spoon rest or saucer to catch the drips from the soggy tea leaves.\\nIf you steeped the tea directly in the teapot, hold a strainer over your teacup to catch the damp leaves as you pour out the tea.\\nDiscard the used tea leaves while they’re damp, or wait until they’ve dried out to more easily tip them out of the strainer.\\n2. Using Tea Strainers\\n2-1. Place the tea leaves directly into a tea strainer for easy cleanup.\\nPlace a basket-style tea strainer into a cup or teapot first. Measure out the loose leaf tea into the strainer and pour the hot water directly over it. Make sure you completely cover the tea leaves with water so that they steep properly.\\nAfter a period of 3 to 5 minutes, simply remove the strainer and the damp tea leaves.\\n2-2. Choose a disposable filter bag for fine, powdery teas.\\nBuy a packet of disposable tea filter bags from a tea shop or grocery store. Use one when you’re preparing especially fine tea which tends to slip through mesh strainers easily. Keep the bag upright with the opening well above the water level so the tea leaves don’t float out.\\nYou can also use a filter bag if you just want to make 1 cup at a time with easy cleanup.\\n2-3. Use a mesh, basket-style tea strainer for larger tea leaves.\\nMost loose leaf teas can be successfully steeped in these types of strainers. Choose one that fits correctly within the opening of the cup or teapot you’ll be using; it shouldn’t shift around or sink into the vessel, otherwise the tea leaves will escape.\\nTry a travel tea mug with a built-in basket strainer if you’ll be on the go. Just remember to remove the tea after it’s steeped for 3 to 5 minutes.\\nWhile a short or rounded basket strainer may work for a single cup, use a deeper basket to steep loose leaf tea in a deep mug or teapot.\\n2-4. Avoid using tea balls or infusers for large or fine leaves.\\nMetal tea balls and silicone tea strainers are popular since they come in playful designs, but keep in mind the limited practicality of these tools. Refrain from using them for large-leafed tea as they won’t leave much room for the leaves to unfurl as they become hydrated. Additionally, avoid using a tea ball or infuser for fine, powdery teas as the tea leaves may slip through the holes easily.\\nIf you’re steeping medium-sized tea leaves in small quantities of water, a tea ball or infuser might not pose any problems.\\nHinged tea balls are difficult to fill and the mechanisms can be tricky to open and close, especially when the metal is hot.\\n2-5. Leave plenty of room for the tea leaves to expand in the strainer.\\nLoose leaf tea leaves can grow up to 5 times their original size once you hydrate them with hot water. For this reason, aim to leave plenty of space in the tea strainer or filter bag. Don’t overfill it with too much tea.\\nA mesh basket-style strainer will allow the tea to expand, while a tea ball may compress the leaves.\\nA little extra space will allow the water to flow around the tea leaves so you’ll have a better result.\\n2-6. Strain the tea after it steeps in the teapot if you prefer.\\nThis is a useful technique if you don’t have a tea strainer that fits correctly in your teapot. Instead of placing the leaves into a strainer, what you can do is measure out the tea leaves and drop them directly into your teapot. After the leaves have steeped, hold a tea strainer over your cup. Carefully pour the liquid into the cup and you’ll see the strainer catch the leaves.\\nSince there will still be leaves sitting in the teapot, the tea will grow more bitter as it continues steeping.\\nTips\\nTo keep the tea warmer for a longer period of time, pre-warm your teapot or cup by sloshing some boiling water around inside it. Tip this out before adding the tea and the rest of the heated water.[14]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\\n\\n\\n Alternatively, try covering the teapot with a quilted tea cozy to keep it warm.\\nDelicate green and white teas are best consumed immediately while more robust black teas can be enjoyed for a longer period of time.[15]\\nX\\nResearch source\\nAfter you’ve poured the tea into your cup, add milk, honey, lemon, or sugar to taste. Just avoid adding milk and lemon at the same time as the milk may curdle.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"All you really need to prepare loose leaf tea is hot water, the leaves themselves, and a tea strainer. However, each type of tea requires slightly different steeping techniques. For the best cup, follow the recommended measurements, water temperature, and steeping time outlined on the package of tea. Experiment with different quantities of tea or steeping durations. Finally, add in your favorite sweetener or milk for a soothing cup of tea that really hits the spot.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Mastering Tea-Steeping Basics\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Pour fresh, cold water into a saucepan or kettle.\", \"描述\": \"Don’t use distilled or previously boiled water as it may negatively affect the taste of your tea. Instead, start with fresh, cool water from the tap. Use an electric kettle, stovetop kettle, or a saucepan to warm up the water.\\nIf your local water is especially hard (i.e. high in mineral content), consider using bottled water for a more pleasant taste.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Heat the water until it reaches 160 to 212 °F (71 to 100 °C).\", \"描述\": \"Remove the water from its heat source once it begins to steam, simmer, or reach a rolling boil. Depending on the tea variety you’re preparing, you may need it to be slightly warmer or cooler to bring out the best flavors in the leaves. Use an instant-read thermometer to get the most accurate temperature.\\nIf you prefer, you can boil the water and allow it to cool down to the correct temperature before adding it to the tea leaves.\\nIn general, white and green teas can be brewed at a lower temperature with the water just starting to steam, while oolong tea is typically best prepared at a moderate simmering temperature. Black and Puerh teas can withstand a higher temperature when the water hits a rolling boil.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Weight out 2 to 3 grams of loose leaf tea for every 6 fl oz (180 mL) of water.\", \"描述\": \"Since tea leaves come in different shapes and sizes, it’s best to measure out your tea by weight (i.e. grams) rather than by volume. But if you do measure by volume, start with roughly 1 teaspoon for smaller leaves and about 1 tablespoon for larger leaves. Spoon out your desired amount of tea into a tea strainer or teapot, depending on how you plan to steep it.\\nA teacup holds about 6 fl oz (180 mL) of water, but since most coffee mugs hold about 10 to 12 fl oz (300 to 350 mL) of water, you may need to double the amount of loose leaf tea you use in a larger mug.\\nThe amount of tea you decide to use is completely a matter of taste. Steep more or less to see which flavor you prefer.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Steep the tea in hot water for 3 to 5 minutes.\", \"描述\": \"Pour the hot water directly over the tea leaves and allow the flavors to seep out for a few minutes. Different tea varieties require slightly different steeping times, so be sure to follow the instructions on the packaging. If you’re not sure how long to steep the leaves, start with 3 minutes for your first cup. Then add 30 more seconds for each subsequent cup until you find the perfect taste.\\nGenerally speaking, green and oolong teas can be steeped for about 3 minutes, white tea for 4 minutes, and black and Puerh teas for 5 minutes.\\nAvoid steeping tea longer than 5 minutes; it will only taste bitter. If you want a stronger cup, just add more tea leaves and keep the timing the same.\\nSince herbal teas don’t contain any actual tea leaves, they can often be left to steep longer without taking on a bitter flavor.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Remove the tea leaves from the water once they’ve steeped.\", \"描述\": \"How you do this will depend on the type of strainer you’re using. Basket-style strainers, metal or silicone infusers, and filter bags can be lifted out of your teapot or cup to stop the infusion. Place the strainer on a spoon rest or saucer to catch the drips from the soggy tea leaves.\\nIf you steeped the tea directly in the teapot, hold a strainer over your teacup to catch the damp leaves as you pour out the tea.\\nDiscard the used tea leaves while they’re damp, or wait until they’ve dried out to more easily tip them out of the strainer.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Using Tea Strainers\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Place the tea leaves directly into a tea strainer for easy cleanup.\", \"描述\": \"Place a basket-style tea strainer into a cup or teapot first. Measure out the loose leaf tea into the strainer and pour the hot water directly over it. Make sure you completely cover the tea leaves with water so that they steep properly.\\nAfter a period of 3 to 5 minutes, simply remove the strainer and the damp tea leaves.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Choose a disposable filter bag for fine, powdery teas.\", \"描述\": \"Buy a packet of disposable tea filter bags from a tea shop or grocery store. Use one when you’re preparing especially fine tea which tends to slip through mesh strainers easily. Keep the bag upright with the opening well above the water level so the tea leaves don’t float out.\\nYou can also use a filter bag if you just want to make 1 cup at a time with easy cleanup.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Use a mesh, basket-style tea strainer for larger tea leaves.\", \"描述\": \"Most loose leaf teas can be successfully steeped in these types of strainers. Choose one that fits correctly within the opening of the cup or teapot you’ll be using; it shouldn’t shift around or sink into the vessel, otherwise the tea leaves will escape.\\nTry a travel tea mug with a built-in basket strainer if you’ll be on the go. Just remember to remove the tea after it’s steeped for 3 to 5 minutes.\\nWhile a short or rounded basket strainer may work for a single cup, use a deeper basket to steep loose leaf tea in a deep mug or teapot.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Avoid using tea balls or infusers for large or fine leaves.\", \"描述\": \"Metal tea balls and silicone tea strainers are popular since they come in playful designs, but keep in mind the limited practicality of these tools. Refrain from using them for large-leafed tea as they won’t leave much room for the leaves to unfurl as they become hydrated. Additionally, avoid using a tea ball or infuser for fine, powdery teas as the tea leaves may slip through the holes easily.\\nIf you’re steeping medium-sized tea leaves in small quantities of water, a tea ball or infuser might not pose any problems.\\nHinged tea balls are difficult to fill and the mechanisms can be tricky to open and close, especially when the metal is hot.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Leave plenty of room for the tea leaves to expand in the strainer.\", \"描述\": \"Loose leaf tea leaves can grow up to 5 times their original size once you hydrate them with hot water. For this reason, aim to leave plenty of space in the tea strainer or filter bag. Don’t overfill it with too much tea.\\nA mesh basket-style strainer will allow the tea to expand, while a tea ball may compress the leaves.\\nA little extra space will allow the water to flow around the tea leaves so you’ll have a better result.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Strain the tea after it steeps in the teapot if you prefer.\", \"描述\": \"This is a useful technique if you don’t have a tea strainer that fits correctly in your teapot. Instead of placing the leaves into a strainer, what you can do is measure out the tea leaves and drop them directly into your teapot. After the leaves have steeped, hold a tea strainer over your cup. Carefully pour the liquid into the cup and you’ll see the strainer catch the leaves.\\nSince there will still be leaves sitting in the teapot, the tea will grow more bitter as it continues steeping.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"To keep the tea warmer for a longer period of time, pre-warm your teapot or cup by sloshing some boiling water around inside it. Tip this out before adding the tea and the rest of the heated water.[14]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\\n\\n\\n Alternatively, try covering the teapot with a quilted tea cozy to keep it warm.\\n\", \"Delicate green and white teas are best consumed immediately while more robust black teas can be enjoyed for a longer period of time.[15]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\", \"After you’ve poured the tea into your cup, add milk, honey, lemon, or sugar to taste. Just avoid adding milk and lemon at the same time as the milk may curdle.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
6,977 |
How to Brew Tea With a Teapot
|
1. Steps
1-1. Boil enough water for the pot, to fill it to just below where the lid will sit.
1-2. While the water is coming to the boil, put a cup full of hot water in the pot and swill it around, before tipping it out.
This warms the pot, and helps the tea brew faster.
1-3. Add the tea to the pot.
The old rule used to be of one for the pot, and one for each person. If using tea leaves, measuring out the leaves with a teaspoon. Otherwise use a tea bag for each person. Nowadays we drink tea somewhat weaker. Experiment, and discover your own preference.
1-4. Add the boiling water - Always use freshly boiling water for a superior brew.
Using re-boiled water gives a peculiarly lifeless taste to the brew.
1-5. Allow the pot to stand for between one and six minutes to brew, depending on taste.
1-6. Pour it in.
Add milk and sugar to taste. If using leaves, remember to put a strainer over the cups - tea leaves taste foul!
1-7. Put a tea-cosy over the pot between cups, to keep the tea warm.
Don't let it stand around for too long or the tea will end up tasting very strong. Hardened tea drinkers like this strong bitter taste which comes from the tannins released - but most tea drinkers prefer the subtlety of the fresh brew.
1-8. Finished.
Tips
Use good quality tea for a better flavor.
Try different varieties of tea, and see what you like.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:58:43",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Boil enough water for the pot, to fill it to just below where the lid will sit.\\n\\n1-2. While the water is coming to the boil, put a cup full of hot water in the pot and swill it around, before tipping it out.\\nThis warms the pot, and helps the tea brew faster.\\n1-3. Add the tea to the pot.\\nThe old rule used to be of one for the pot, and one for each person. If using tea leaves, measuring out the leaves with a teaspoon. Otherwise use a tea bag for each person. Nowadays we drink tea somewhat weaker. Experiment, and discover your own preference.\\n1-4. Add the boiling water - Always use freshly boiling water for a superior brew.\\nUsing re-boiled water gives a peculiarly lifeless taste to the brew.\\n1-5. Allow the pot to stand for between one and six minutes to brew, depending on taste.\\n\\n1-6. Pour it in.\\nAdd milk and sugar to taste. If using leaves, remember to put a strainer over the cups - tea leaves taste foul!\\n1-7. Put a tea-cosy over the pot between cups, to keep the tea warm.\\nDon't let it stand around for too long or the tea will end up tasting very strong. Hardened tea drinkers like this strong bitter taste which comes from the tannins released - but most tea drinkers prefer the subtlety of the fresh brew.\\n1-8. Finished.\\n\\nTips\\nUse good quality tea for a better flavor.\\nTry different varieties of tea, and see what you like.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Brewing tea properly is an art form. Many cultures around the world have their own traditional methods of brewing tea, but this is the bog standard version, for new comers to the wonder that is good tea.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Boil enough water for the pot, to fill it to just below where the lid will sit.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"While the water is coming to the boil, put a cup full of hot water in the pot and swill it around, before tipping it out.\", \"描述\": \"This warms the pot, and helps the tea brew faster.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Add the tea to the pot.\", \"描述\": \"The old rule used to be of one for the pot, and one for each person. If using tea leaves, measuring out the leaves with a teaspoon. Otherwise use a tea bag for each person. Nowadays we drink tea somewhat weaker. Experiment, and discover your own preference.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Add the boiling water - Always use freshly boiling water for a superior brew.\", \"描述\": \"Using re-boiled water gives a peculiarly lifeless taste to the brew.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Allow the pot to stand for between one and six minutes to brew, depending on taste.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Pour it in.\", \"描述\": \"Add milk and sugar to taste. If using leaves, remember to put a strainer over the cups - tea leaves taste foul!\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Put a tea-cosy over the pot between cups, to keep the tea warm.\", \"描述\": \"Don't let it stand around for too long or the tea will end up tasting very strong. Hardened tea drinkers like this strong bitter taste which comes from the tannins released - but most tea drinkers prefer the subtlety of the fresh brew.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Finished.\", \"描述\": \"\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Use good quality tea for a better flavor.\\n\", \"Try different varieties of tea, and see what you like.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
6,978 |
How to Brew White Tea
|
1. Steps
1-1. Purchase your white tea.
White tea is far more expensive than any other tea, so it's not likely you'll be consuming it daily but the price is worth it for weekend treats or other special occasions. Considering that you're spending a lot though, it's important to ensure that you're getting the best quality possible.
White tea has two versions: a traditional budget white tea (Fujian Silver Needle, Anhui, etc.) and a modern new style leaf white tea. They are not interchangeable and appear very different.
White tea comes in several varieties, and they can differ significantly in price. Silver tip, jasmine silver tips, pai mu tan (white peony) and silver needle are the best varieties, and they are often also the most popular. You may even need to place an order with your local tea store to ensure that you get a supply each spring.
If you're new to white tea, a good way to start is to buy a sampler kit from an online vendor. That way, you can try small amounts of several varieties to find your favorites.
White tea can be bought as loose leaves or as teabags. However, if the container is opaque and if there is a lack of labeling, be careful as you might get leaf when all you wanted was buds, etc.
Be sure to shop around to get the best deal possible. Since white tea is still relatively scarce, shopping online may be your best option.
1-2. Be absolutely certain your white tea purchase is fresh.
Ask the vendor to ensure that you're buying the most recent harvest, from the most recent northern hemisphere spring.
Make sure that the tea you buy is packed in as airtight a container as possible. Keep it dry, cool and dark to prevent oxidation. White tea doesn't keep for years like black tea does; it must be consumed within six months of purchase.
1-3. Select the water.
Choose good quality water. If you live in an area with hard water, filter it before you use it to brew. Hard water may ruin white tea, which has very delicate flavors.
1-4. Heat water to boiling, then let it cool for five to eight minutes.
Alternatively, only boil the water to "first boil". This is when the water begins to boil but has not yet begin to simmer. The temperature at this stage will be 160ºF (71ºC). Bitter brews come from too high a temperature of water on green tea; prefer a longer steeping time at a cooler temperature instead.
1-5. Test the water temperature.
Before adding the boiled water to the white tea, it should be no more than 158ºF to 167ºF (70ºC to 75ºC) or 160-170ºF (71-77ºC) at the most.
If the water is too hot, the tea will be scalded, causing it to become bitter and astringent.
1-6. Select your method for brewing the white tea.
Use a tea infuser basket, a tea ball, or a teapot.
1-7. Add two teaspoons of white tea leaves per cup.
Place the tea leaves into the infuser basket, tea ball, or teapot.
1-8. Steep.
White tea leaves can withstand longer infusion times than other tea types before pouring. It is usual to steep for 7 to 10 minutes. However, you may wish to experiment with a short steep initially (1 to 3 minutes) and then to graduate to longer steeping times, to find the steeping length you prefer.
Use the same leaves for steeping several cups of white tea, with steeping times increasing as needed. Some sources recommend a 90 second to 2 minute steeping if you intend on steeping the leaves several times.
1-9. Serve.
White tea should be served as it is, unadulterated. You may choose to pour milk or sugar in the white tea, but the already subtle flavor of the tea will be drowned out.
1-10. Finished.
Tips
Traditional budset white tea is so expensive because it is made exclusively from a select picking of plump spring buds, of which 10,000 handpicked ones result in 2.2 pounds (1 kilo) of the tea.[10]
X
Research source
White tea has been shown to block DNA mutations which trigger tumor formation.[11]
X
Research source
Only use fresh water for tea, not water that has been sitting in the kettle for days. Fresh water makes the tea taste better.
Warnings
Do not pour boiling water onto white loose leaf tea. Doing so will scald and damage the leaves. White tea leaves are among the most delicate types of tea.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:58:43",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Purchase your white tea.\\nWhite tea is far more expensive than any other tea, so it's not likely you'll be consuming it daily but the price is worth it for weekend treats or other special occasions. Considering that you're spending a lot though, it's important to ensure that you're getting the best quality possible.\\nWhite tea has two versions: a traditional budget white tea (Fujian Silver Needle, Anhui, etc.) and a modern new style leaf white tea. They are not interchangeable and appear very different.\\nWhite tea comes in several varieties, and they can differ significantly in price. Silver tip, jasmine silver tips, pai mu tan (white peony) and silver needle are the best varieties, and they are often also the most popular. You may even need to place an order with your local tea store to ensure that you get a supply each spring.\\nIf you're new to white tea, a good way to start is to buy a sampler kit from an online vendor. That way, you can try small amounts of several varieties to find your favorites.\\nWhite tea can be bought as loose leaves or as teabags. However, if the container is opaque and if there is a lack of labeling, be careful as you might get leaf when all you wanted was buds, etc.\\nBe sure to shop around to get the best deal possible. Since white tea is still relatively scarce, shopping online may be your best option.\\n1-2. Be absolutely certain your white tea purchase is fresh.\\nAsk the vendor to ensure that you're buying the most recent harvest, from the most recent northern hemisphere spring.\\nMake sure that the tea you buy is packed in as airtight a container as possible. Keep it dry, cool and dark to prevent oxidation. White tea doesn't keep for years like black tea does; it must be consumed within six months of purchase.\\n1-3. Select the water.\\nChoose good quality water. If you live in an area with hard water, filter it before you use it to brew. Hard water may ruin white tea, which has very delicate flavors.\\n1-4. Heat water to boiling, then let it cool for five to eight minutes.\\nAlternatively, only boil the water to \\\"first boil\\\". This is when the water begins to boil but has not yet begin to simmer. The temperature at this stage will be 160ºF (71ºC). Bitter brews come from too high a temperature of water on green tea; prefer a longer steeping time at a cooler temperature instead.\\n1-5. Test the water temperature.\\nBefore adding the boiled water to the white tea, it should be no more than 158ºF to 167ºF (70ºC to 75ºC) or 160-170ºF (71-77ºC) at the most.\\nIf the water is too hot, the tea will be scalded, causing it to become bitter and astringent.\\n1-6. Select your method for brewing the white tea.\\nUse a tea infuser basket, a tea ball, or a teapot.\\n1-7. Add two teaspoons of white tea leaves per cup.\\nPlace the tea leaves into the infuser basket, tea ball, or teapot.\\n1-8. Steep.\\nWhite tea leaves can withstand longer infusion times than other tea types before pouring. It is usual to steep for 7 to 10 minutes. However, you may wish to experiment with a short steep initially (1 to 3 minutes) and then to graduate to longer steeping times, to find the steeping length you prefer.\\nUse the same leaves for steeping several cups of white tea, with steeping times increasing as needed. Some sources recommend a 90 second to 2 minute steeping if you intend on steeping the leaves several times.\\n1-9. Serve.\\nWhite tea should be served as it is, unadulterated. You may choose to pour milk or sugar in the white tea, but the already subtle flavor of the tea will be drowned out.\\n1-10. Finished.\\n\\nTips\\nTraditional budset white tea is so expensive because it is made exclusively from a select picking of plump spring buds, of which 10,000 handpicked ones result in 2.2 pounds (1 kilo) of the tea.[10]\\nX\\nResearch source\\nWhite tea has been shown to block DNA mutations which trigger tumor formation.[11]\\nX\\nResearch source\\nOnly use fresh water for tea, not water that has been sitting in the kettle for days. Fresh water makes the tea taste better.\\nWarnings\\nDo not pour boiling water onto white loose leaf tea. Doing so will scald and damage the leaves. White tea leaves are among the most delicate types of tea.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"White tea is a mild, sweet and fresh tea, that comes from a very healthy and rarer variety of the same plant as green tea (Camellia sinensis). It is produced mainly in the Fujian province of China and only consists of the most tender leaf buds that are covered in silvery, down-covered hairs. These leaves can only be picked during 3 days of every year in early spring.\\n\\nContaining up to three times as many antioxidants as green tea, this least-processed tea is the healthiest tea of all teas. It has a mild and sweet flavor that is velvet-like in smoothness, and has none of the grass-like flavors some green teas can produce. Follow the steps below to make sure your white tea retains all its fine qualities while brewing.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Purchase your white tea.\", \"描述\": \"White tea is far more expensive than any other tea, so it's not likely you'll be consuming it daily but the price is worth it for weekend treats or other special occasions. Considering that you're spending a lot though, it's important to ensure that you're getting the best quality possible.\\nWhite tea has two versions: a traditional budget white tea (Fujian Silver Needle, Anhui, etc.) and a modern new style leaf white tea. They are not interchangeable and appear very different.\\nWhite tea comes in several varieties, and they can differ significantly in price. Silver tip, jasmine silver tips, pai mu tan (white peony) and silver needle are the best varieties, and they are often also the most popular. You may even need to place an order with your local tea store to ensure that you get a supply each spring.\\nIf you're new to white tea, a good way to start is to buy a sampler kit from an online vendor. That way, you can try small amounts of several varieties to find your favorites.\\nWhite tea can be bought as loose leaves or as teabags. However, if the container is opaque and if there is a lack of labeling, be careful as you might get leaf when all you wanted was buds, etc.\\nBe sure to shop around to get the best deal possible. Since white tea is still relatively scarce, shopping online may be your best option.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Be absolutely certain your white tea purchase is fresh.\", \"描述\": \"Ask the vendor to ensure that you're buying the most recent harvest, from the most recent northern hemisphere spring.\\nMake sure that the tea you buy is packed in as airtight a container as possible. Keep it dry, cool and dark to prevent oxidation. White tea doesn't keep for years like black tea does; it must be consumed within six months of purchase.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Select the water.\", \"描述\": \"Choose good quality water. If you live in an area with hard water, filter it before you use it to brew. Hard water may ruin white tea, which has very delicate flavors.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Heat water to boiling, then let it cool for five to eight minutes.\", \"描述\": \"Alternatively, only boil the water to \\\"first boil\\\". This is when the water begins to boil but has not yet begin to simmer. The temperature at this stage will be 160ºF (71ºC). Bitter brews come from too high a temperature of water on green tea; prefer a longer steeping time at a cooler temperature instead.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Test the water temperature.\", \"描述\": \"Before adding the boiled water to the white tea, it should be no more than 158ºF to 167ºF (70ºC to 75ºC) or 160-170ºF (71-77ºC) at the most.\\nIf the water is too hot, the tea will be scalded, causing it to become bitter and astringent.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Select your method for brewing the white tea.\", \"描述\": \"Use a tea infuser basket, a tea ball, or a teapot.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Add two teaspoons of white tea leaves per cup.\", \"描述\": \"Place the tea leaves into the infuser basket, tea ball, or teapot.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Steep.\", \"描述\": \"White tea leaves can withstand longer infusion times than other tea types before pouring. It is usual to steep for 7 to 10 minutes. However, you may wish to experiment with a short steep initially (1 to 3 minutes) and then to graduate to longer steeping times, to find the steeping length you prefer.\\nUse the same leaves for steeping several cups of white tea, with steeping times increasing as needed. Some sources recommend a 90 second to 2 minute steeping if you intend on steeping the leaves several times.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Serve.\", \"描述\": \"White tea should be served as it is, unadulterated. You may choose to pour milk or sugar in the white tea, but the already subtle flavor of the tea will be drowned out.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Finished.\", \"描述\": \"\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Traditional budset white tea is so expensive because it is made exclusively from a select picking of plump spring buds, of which 10,000 handpicked ones result in 2.2 pounds (1 kilo) of the tea.[10]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\", \"White tea has been shown to block DNA mutations which trigger tumor formation.[11]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\", \"Only use fresh water for tea, not water that has been sitting in the kettle for days. Fresh water makes the tea taste better.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Do not pour boiling water onto white loose leaf tea. Doing so will scald and damage the leaves. White tea leaves are among the most delicate types of tea.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
6,979 |
How to Brew Your Own Beer
|
1. Preparation
1-1. Keep it clean.
As any experienced brewer will tell you, 80% of the secret of success is cleanliness. Thoroughly clean and sanitize everything that is going to come in contact with your beer. The easiest way to do that is to use an electric dishwasher set at the high heat setting or use a powdered cleanser such as PBW (Powdered Brewery Wash).
Do not use a scrubber that will scratch the surface of whatever you're scrubbing—pathogens love to grow in the grooves left behind, and they're almost impossible to sanitize. Rinse well, then soak briefly in a bleach or iodine solution.
1-2. Rinse everything well.
Rinse off bleach before using items using very clean potable or distilled water. Do not assume tap water is sanitized for rinsing brewing equipment.
If you're using bleach to sanitize, add one ounce (30ml) of bleach to five gallons (19 liters) of cold water, followed by one ounce (30ml) of white vinegar. Do not mix the bleach and vinegar together before adding to the water! The vinegar will make the water more acidic, which helps the bleach sanitize.
Do not rinse iodine solutions, let equipment drip dry instead.
Note that bleach can cause unwanted flavours in your beer, and requires rinsing, which can introduce microorganisms to your sterilized equipment. If you want to sterilize your equipment properly, use either a food-grade cleanser or sanitizer such as One Step No-Rinse Sanitizer, which requires no rinsing; or an iodine solution such as BTF Iodophor.
Remember, in beer brewing, you can do just about anything you want, and add anything you want, to make whatever kind of beer you want—but proper sanitizing is the MOST important thing you can do. Take the time and the energy to do it right.
1-3. Prepare everything before you begin.
That includes cleaning and sanitizing as outlined, and also includes having all your ingredients prepared and measured in advance.
2. Brewing
2-1. Take notes.
Before you begin your foray into home brewing, get a notebook, and note down everything you do—the cleaning process, what strain of yeast, the amount and specific type of malt, what variety of hops, and any specialty grains or other ingredients used to produce your beer.
This will allow you to reproduce any given brew, or provide a basis for experimentation and improvement.
2-2. Steep your grains.
Put any specialty grains into a grain bag (a mesh bag to contain the grains—like a tea bag, only a lot bigger) and steep them in the large stock pot in three gallons (10 liters) of hot water (around 150°F (66°C) for about 30 minutes.
Remove the grains and allow the water to drip out of the grain bag, into the pot. Do not squeeze the bag, because you may extract tannins that will give your beer an astringent flavor.
2-3. Add the malt extract and bring everything to a boil.
The hops are usually added at various intervals to add flavor, bitterness, or aroma and the times will be spelled out for you in the kit's instructions for your style of beer.
In general, hops added early in the boil will contribute more bitterness, but at the expense of flavor and aroma. Hops added at the end of the boil will have a more pronounced flavor and aroma, but will not contribute significantly to the bitterness of the beer.
Consider dry hopping your beer if you are looking for a brighter and less bitter flavor.
2-4. Chill your wort.
After you have boiled the liquid (called wort—pronounced wərt), you need to cool it as quickly as possible. The easiest way is to put the whole pot in a sink or bathtub that is filled with ice water.
You can gently stir the wort to help expedite the cooling, but try not to splash or aerate the wort while it's still hot (it can make for some funky flavors).
Once it's around 80°F (27°C) you are ready to transfer it to the fermenter.
2-5. Pour the cooled wort into your fermenter.
After the wort has cooled and before fermentation starts is the one and only time that splashing is encouraged. Yeast need oxygen, and splashing the wort as you pour it into the fermenter will deliver that.
Once fermentation has started, you want to minimize exposure to air, as it will lead to off flavors and aromas.
Using a large strainer (usually cheapest at restaurant supply stores), scoop the hops out—you've already got all the good stuff out of them. (If using a carboy, strain the wort as you pour it into the carboy).
Add water to make five gallons (20 liters). You are now ready to "pitch" (add) the yeast. Some yeast requires that you "bloom" (stir with warm water to activate) them prior to pitching, others do not. You may find that even those that don't require blooming will start working faster if you do bloom them first, but it's usually no big deal.
Put the lid on your fermenter (or stopper in your glass carboy) and affix the air-lock to the top. Put the fermenter in a dark area that stays a fairly consistent room temperature (for ales...lagers need refrigeration to ferment properly). In about 24 hours, you should notice the air-lock happily bubbling away, if it hasn't started doing anything after 48 hours, you might have a problem such as dead yeast.
3. Bottling
3-1. Prepare for bottling!
After a week or so, the activity from the airlock will slow to a crawl. Leave it alone for two weeks measured from the time you first started the brewing/fermenting. The beer is now ready for bottling. Your kit probably came with some priming sugar or DME(dried malt extract). This is used to provide carbonation to your beer once it is in the bottle.
Boil the sugar in a little water and cool it. Then, add it to the empty, cleaned and sanitized bucket with the spigot or to your fermented beer.
3-2. Transfer the brew.
Use your cleaned and sanitized plastic tubing as a siphon to transfer the beer as gently as possible—so that there's little or no aeration—from the fermenter to the bottling bucket with the priming sugar solution in it. Try not to get any of the sediment (trub) from the fermenter into the bottling bucket.
Attach your cleaned and sanitized bottle filler to your clean and sanitized plastic tubing, the other end of the tubing attaches to the bottom end of the spigot. (If you are only using one bucket, it is important to let the fermented beer settle after stirring in the priming sugar solution. There is sediment on the bottom (trub) that will lend an off flavor to your beer).
3-3. Get your thoroughly cleaned and sanitized bottles ready.
If you are using a bottling bucket, just open the spigot and put the bottle filler in a bottle. Push the bottle filler to the bottom and that will let the beer flow.
If using the one bucket method, fill the tube (attached to the bottle filler) with water and put the open end in the fermented beer and place the bottle filler in a glass, or a bottle or the sink, press down to let the water flow out and start the beer flowing in the tube like a siphon. Fill each bottle just to overflowing, then remove the bottle filler: this leaves an almost perfect airspace at the top of the bottle. Cap the bottle with your handy bottle capper, and repeat until all the bottles are full.
3-4. Age the brew—briefly!
Store the bottles for at least a week preferably two at about room temperature, then refrigerate.
3-5. Get thirsty.
When you're ready, open a bottle, and pour carefully into a glass. Leave about a quarter inch in the bottle—the sediment tastes a little yeasty, and will give you serious beer farts.
3-6. Enjoy!
Tips
Most beers benefit from a second fermentation stage, or a "secondary." Once fermentation has slowed (the airlock is either no longer bubbling, or has slowed to 2-3 bubbles per minute), very carefully siphon the beer from the first fermenter to another sanitized fermenter, preferably a glass carboy. Splashing is discouraged at this stage, as you do not want oxygen getting into the beer. A slow, smooth siphon is best. This "secondary fermentation" gives the beer more time to clear, meaning less sediment in the bottles, and generally results in a better tasting beer.[11]
X
Research source
Start collecting non-screw top bottles well in advance of beginning this hobby, you will need about 50 to bottle a standard batch. This is a good excuse to start buying premium brands. Also old recyclable glass soft drink bottles and some champagne bottles are outstanding (a dark beer in a coke bottle is stealthy to say the least), and can often be found at yard sales.
DON'T USE BLEACH! Use a brewery specific sanitizer like "StarSan" or an iodine based food grade sanitizer!
Warnings
Be careful when adding the sugar to your bottles for carbonation. If you add too much they can explode!
When boiling the wort, watch for boil-overs. That malt extract is some squirrelly stuff when it starts boiling. Same goes for boiling the DME for priming.
Do NOT use "Brewer's Yeast" as sold in health food stores, etc. This is dead yeast, and won't work!
If you are using a glass carboy, never pour hot wort directly into it, it will break from the temperature difference.
Before adding extract to the boiling water, turn off the heat. Stir it in well, but gently, before turning the heat back on. This helps to avoid scorching the extract, and minimizes the chance of boil-overs.
Check your country's laws about brewing your own brew. A few American states require permits.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:58:43",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Preparation\\n1-1. Keep it clean.\\nAs any experienced brewer will tell you, 80% of the secret of success is cleanliness. Thoroughly clean and sanitize everything that is going to come in contact with your beer. The easiest way to do that is to use an electric dishwasher set at the high heat setting or use a powdered cleanser such as PBW (Powdered Brewery Wash).\\nDo not use a scrubber that will scratch the surface of whatever you're scrubbing—pathogens love to grow in the grooves left behind, and they're almost impossible to sanitize. Rinse well, then soak briefly in a bleach or iodine solution.\\n1-2. Rinse everything well.\\nRinse off bleach before using items using very clean potable or distilled water. Do not assume tap water is sanitized for rinsing brewing equipment.\\nIf you're using bleach to sanitize, add one ounce (30ml) of bleach to five gallons (19 liters) of cold water, followed by one ounce (30ml) of white vinegar. Do not mix the bleach and vinegar together before adding to the water! The vinegar will make the water more acidic, which helps the bleach sanitize.\\nDo not rinse iodine solutions, let equipment drip dry instead.\\nNote that bleach can cause unwanted flavours in your beer, and requires rinsing, which can introduce microorganisms to your sterilized equipment. If you want to sterilize your equipment properly, use either a food-grade cleanser or sanitizer such as One Step No-Rinse Sanitizer, which requires no rinsing; or an iodine solution such as BTF Iodophor.\\nRemember, in beer brewing, you can do just about anything you want, and add anything you want, to make whatever kind of beer you want—but proper sanitizing is the MOST important thing you can do. Take the time and the energy to do it right.\\n1-3. Prepare everything before you begin.\\nThat includes cleaning and sanitizing as outlined, and also includes having all your ingredients prepared and measured in advance.\\n2. Brewing\\n2-1. Take notes.\\nBefore you begin your foray into home brewing, get a notebook, and note down everything you do—the cleaning process, what strain of yeast, the amount and specific type of malt, what variety of hops, and any specialty grains or other ingredients used to produce your beer.\\nThis will allow you to reproduce any given brew, or provide a basis for experimentation and improvement.\\n2-2. Steep your grains.\\nPut any specialty grains into a grain bag (a mesh bag to contain the grains—like a tea bag, only a lot bigger) and steep them in the large stock pot in three gallons (10 liters) of hot water (around 150°F (66°C) for about 30 minutes.\\nRemove the grains and allow the water to drip out of the grain bag, into the pot. Do not squeeze the bag, because you may extract tannins that will give your beer an astringent flavor.\\n2-3. Add the malt extract and bring everything to a boil.\\nThe hops are usually added at various intervals to add flavor, bitterness, or aroma and the times will be spelled out for you in the kit's instructions for your style of beer.\\nIn general, hops added early in the boil will contribute more bitterness, but at the expense of flavor and aroma. Hops added at the end of the boil will have a more pronounced flavor and aroma, but will not contribute significantly to the bitterness of the beer.\\nConsider dry hopping your beer if you are looking for a brighter and less bitter flavor.\\n2-4. Chill your wort.\\nAfter you have boiled the liquid (called wort—pronounced wərt), you need to cool it as quickly as possible. The easiest way is to put the whole pot in a sink or bathtub that is filled with ice water.\\nYou can gently stir the wort to help expedite the cooling, but try not to splash or aerate the wort while it's still hot (it can make for some funky flavors).\\nOnce it's around 80°F (27°C) you are ready to transfer it to the fermenter.\\n2-5. Pour the cooled wort into your fermenter.\\nAfter the wort has cooled and before fermentation starts is the one and only time that splashing is encouraged. Yeast need oxygen, and splashing the wort as you pour it into the fermenter will deliver that.\\nOnce fermentation has started, you want to minimize exposure to air, as it will lead to off flavors and aromas.\\nUsing a large strainer (usually cheapest at restaurant supply stores), scoop the hops out—you've already got all the good stuff out of them. (If using a carboy, strain the wort as you pour it into the carboy).\\nAdd water to make five gallons (20 liters). You are now ready to \\\"pitch\\\" (add) the yeast. Some yeast requires that you \\\"bloom\\\" (stir with warm water to activate) them prior to pitching, others do not. You may find that even those that don't require blooming will start working faster if you do bloom them first, but it's usually no big deal.\\nPut the lid on your fermenter (or stopper in your glass carboy) and affix the air-lock to the top. Put the fermenter in a dark area that stays a fairly consistent room temperature (for ales...lagers need refrigeration to ferment properly). In about 24 hours, you should notice the air-lock happily bubbling away, if it hasn't started doing anything after 48 hours, you might have a problem such as dead yeast.\\n3. Bottling\\n3-1. Prepare for bottling!\\nAfter a week or so, the activity from the airlock will slow to a crawl. Leave it alone for two weeks measured from the time you first started the brewing/fermenting. The beer is now ready for bottling. Your kit probably came with some priming sugar or DME(dried malt extract). This is used to provide carbonation to your beer once it is in the bottle.\\nBoil the sugar in a little water and cool it. Then, add it to the empty, cleaned and sanitized bucket with the spigot or to your fermented beer.\\n3-2. Transfer the brew.\\nUse your cleaned and sanitized plastic tubing as a siphon to transfer the beer as gently as possible—so that there's little or no aeration—from the fermenter to the bottling bucket with the priming sugar solution in it. Try not to get any of the sediment (trub) from the fermenter into the bottling bucket.\\nAttach your cleaned and sanitized bottle filler to your clean and sanitized plastic tubing, the other end of the tubing attaches to the bottom end of the spigot. (If you are only using one bucket, it is important to let the fermented beer settle after stirring in the priming sugar solution. There is sediment on the bottom (trub) that will lend an off flavor to your beer).\\n3-3. Get your thoroughly cleaned and sanitized bottles ready.\\nIf you are using a bottling bucket, just open the spigot and put the bottle filler in a bottle. Push the bottle filler to the bottom and that will let the beer flow.\\nIf using the one bucket method, fill the tube (attached to the bottle filler) with water and put the open end in the fermented beer and place the bottle filler in a glass, or a bottle or the sink, press down to let the water flow out and start the beer flowing in the tube like a siphon. Fill each bottle just to overflowing, then remove the bottle filler: this leaves an almost perfect airspace at the top of the bottle. Cap the bottle with your handy bottle capper, and repeat until all the bottles are full.\\n3-4. Age the brew—briefly!\\nStore the bottles for at least a week preferably two at about room temperature, then refrigerate.\\n3-5. Get thirsty.\\nWhen you're ready, open a bottle, and pour carefully into a glass. Leave about a quarter inch in the bottle—the sediment tastes a little yeasty, and will give you serious beer farts.\\n3-6. Enjoy!\\n\\nTips\\nMost beers benefit from a second fermentation stage, or a \\\"secondary.\\\" Once fermentation has slowed (the airlock is either no longer bubbling, or has slowed to 2-3 bubbles per minute), very carefully siphon the beer from the first fermenter to another sanitized fermenter, preferably a glass carboy. Splashing is discouraged at this stage, as you do not want oxygen getting into the beer. A slow, smooth siphon is best. This \\\"secondary fermentation\\\" gives the beer more time to clear, meaning less sediment in the bottles, and generally results in a better tasting beer.[11]\\nX\\nResearch source\\nStart collecting non-screw top bottles well in advance of beginning this hobby, you will need about 50 to bottle a standard batch. This is a good excuse to start buying premium brands. Also old recyclable glass soft drink bottles and some champagne bottles are outstanding (a dark beer in a coke bottle is stealthy to say the least), and can often be found at yard sales.\\nDON'T USE BLEACH! Use a brewery specific sanitizer like \\\"StarSan\\\" or an iodine based food grade sanitizer!\\nWarnings\\nBe careful when adding the sugar to your bottles for carbonation. If you add too much they can explode!\\nWhen boiling the wort, watch for boil-overs. That malt extract is some squirrelly stuff when it starts boiling. Same goes for boiling the DME for priming.\\nDo NOT use \\\"Brewer's Yeast\\\" as sold in health food stores, etc. This is dead yeast, and won't work!\\nIf you are using a glass carboy, never pour hot wort directly into it, it will break from the temperature difference.\\nBefore adding extract to the boiling water, turn off the heat. Stir it in well, but gently, before turning the heat back on. This helps to avoid scorching the extract, and minimizes the chance of boil-overs.\\nCheck your country's laws about brewing your own brew. A few American states require permits.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Brewing your own beer at home is easy, inexpensive, fun, and will most likely produce a brew far superior to that watery canned stuff. You'll also become like Bacchus to your beer buddies! We'll lay out the basic steps to get started, and show you how you can grow your skills and expand the varieties of beer you produce.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Preparation\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Keep it clean.\", \"描述\": \"As any experienced brewer will tell you, 80% of the secret of success is cleanliness. Thoroughly clean and sanitize everything that is going to come in contact with your beer. The easiest way to do that is to use an electric dishwasher set at the high heat setting or use a powdered cleanser such as PBW (Powdered Brewery Wash).\\nDo not use a scrubber that will scratch the surface of whatever you're scrubbing—pathogens love to grow in the grooves left behind, and they're almost impossible to sanitize. Rinse well, then soak briefly in a bleach or iodine solution.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Rinse everything well.\", \"描述\": \"Rinse off bleach before using items using very clean potable or distilled water. Do not assume tap water is sanitized for rinsing brewing equipment.\\nIf you're using bleach to sanitize, add one ounce (30ml) of bleach to five gallons (19 liters) of cold water, followed by one ounce (30ml) of white vinegar. Do not mix the bleach and vinegar together before adding to the water! The vinegar will make the water more acidic, which helps the bleach sanitize.\\nDo not rinse iodine solutions, let equipment drip dry instead.\\nNote that bleach can cause unwanted flavours in your beer, and requires rinsing, which can introduce microorganisms to your sterilized equipment. If you want to sterilize your equipment properly, use either a food-grade cleanser or sanitizer such as One Step No-Rinse Sanitizer, which requires no rinsing; or an iodine solution such as BTF Iodophor.\\nRemember, in beer brewing, you can do just about anything you want, and add anything you want, to make whatever kind of beer you want—but proper sanitizing is the MOST important thing you can do. Take the time and the energy to do it right.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Prepare everything before you begin.\", \"描述\": \"That includes cleaning and sanitizing as outlined, and also includes having all your ingredients prepared and measured in advance.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Brewing\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Take notes.\", \"描述\": \"Before you begin your foray into home brewing, get a notebook, and note down everything you do—the cleaning process, what strain of yeast, the amount and specific type of malt, what variety of hops, and any specialty grains or other ingredients used to produce your beer.\\nThis will allow you to reproduce any given brew, or provide a basis for experimentation and improvement.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Steep your grains.\", \"描述\": \"Put any specialty grains into a grain bag (a mesh bag to contain the grains—like a tea bag, only a lot bigger) and steep them in the large stock pot in three gallons (10 liters) of hot water (around 150°F (66°C) for about 30 minutes.\\nRemove the grains and allow the water to drip out of the grain bag, into the pot. Do not squeeze the bag, because you may extract tannins that will give your beer an astringent flavor.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Add the malt extract and bring everything to a boil.\", \"描述\": \"The hops are usually added at various intervals to add flavor, bitterness, or aroma and the times will be spelled out for you in the kit's instructions for your style of beer.\\nIn general, hops added early in the boil will contribute more bitterness, but at the expense of flavor and aroma. Hops added at the end of the boil will have a more pronounced flavor and aroma, but will not contribute significantly to the bitterness of the beer.\\nConsider dry hopping your beer if you are looking for a brighter and less bitter flavor.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Chill your wort.\", \"描述\": \"After you have boiled the liquid (called wort—pronounced wərt), you need to cool it as quickly as possible. The easiest way is to put the whole pot in a sink or bathtub that is filled with ice water.\\nYou can gently stir the wort to help expedite the cooling, but try not to splash or aerate the wort while it's still hot (it can make for some funky flavors).\\nOnce it's around 80°F (27°C) you are ready to transfer it to the fermenter.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Pour the cooled wort into your fermenter.\", \"描述\": \"After the wort has cooled and before fermentation starts is the one and only time that splashing is encouraged. Yeast need oxygen, and splashing the wort as you pour it into the fermenter will deliver that.\\nOnce fermentation has started, you want to minimize exposure to air, as it will lead to off flavors and aromas.\\nUsing a large strainer (usually cheapest at restaurant supply stores), scoop the hops out—you've already got all the good stuff out of them. (If using a carboy, strain the wort as you pour it into the carboy).\\nAdd water to make five gallons (20 liters). You are now ready to \\\"pitch\\\" (add) the yeast. Some yeast requires that you \\\"bloom\\\" (stir with warm water to activate) them prior to pitching, others do not. You may find that even those that don't require blooming will start working faster if you do bloom them first, but it's usually no big deal.\\nPut the lid on your fermenter (or stopper in your glass carboy) and affix the air-lock to the top. Put the fermenter in a dark area that stays a fairly consistent room temperature (for ales...lagers need refrigeration to ferment properly). In about 24 hours, you should notice the air-lock happily bubbling away, if it hasn't started doing anything after 48 hours, you might have a problem such as dead yeast.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Bottling\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Prepare for bottling!\", \"描述\": \"After a week or so, the activity from the airlock will slow to a crawl. Leave it alone for two weeks measured from the time you first started the brewing/fermenting. The beer is now ready for bottling. Your kit probably came with some priming sugar or DME(dried malt extract). This is used to provide carbonation to your beer once it is in the bottle.\\nBoil the sugar in a little water and cool it. Then, add it to the empty, cleaned and sanitized bucket with the spigot or to your fermented beer.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Transfer the brew.\", \"描述\": \"Use your cleaned and sanitized plastic tubing as a siphon to transfer the beer as gently as possible—so that there's little or no aeration—from the fermenter to the bottling bucket with the priming sugar solution in it. Try not to get any of the sediment (trub) from the fermenter into the bottling bucket.\\nAttach your cleaned and sanitized bottle filler to your clean and sanitized plastic tubing, the other end of the tubing attaches to the bottom end of the spigot. (If you are only using one bucket, it is important to let the fermented beer settle after stirring in the priming sugar solution. There is sediment on the bottom (trub) that will lend an off flavor to your beer).\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Get your thoroughly cleaned and sanitized bottles ready.\", \"描述\": \"If you are using a bottling bucket, just open the spigot and put the bottle filler in a bottle. Push the bottle filler to the bottom and that will let the beer flow.\\nIf using the one bucket method, fill the tube (attached to the bottle filler) with water and put the open end in the fermented beer and place the bottle filler in a glass, or a bottle or the sink, press down to let the water flow out and start the beer flowing in the tube like a siphon. Fill each bottle just to overflowing, then remove the bottle filler: this leaves an almost perfect airspace at the top of the bottle. Cap the bottle with your handy bottle capper, and repeat until all the bottles are full.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Age the brew—briefly!\", \"描述\": \"Store the bottles for at least a week preferably two at about room temperature, then refrigerate.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Get thirsty.\", \"描述\": \"When you're ready, open a bottle, and pour carefully into a glass. Leave about a quarter inch in the bottle—the sediment tastes a little yeasty, and will give you serious beer farts.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Enjoy!\", \"描述\": \"\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Most beers benefit from a second fermentation stage, or a \\\"secondary.\\\" Once fermentation has slowed (the airlock is either no longer bubbling, or has slowed to 2-3 bubbles per minute), very carefully siphon the beer from the first fermenter to another sanitized fermenter, preferably a glass carboy. Splashing is discouraged at this stage, as you do not want oxygen getting into the beer. A slow, smooth siphon is best. This \\\"secondary fermentation\\\" gives the beer more time to clear, meaning less sediment in the bottles, and generally results in a better tasting beer.[11]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\", \"Start collecting non-screw top bottles well in advance of beginning this hobby, you will need about 50 to bottle a standard batch. This is a good excuse to start buying premium brands. Also old recyclable glass soft drink bottles and some champagne bottles are outstanding (a dark beer in a coke bottle is stealthy to say the least), and can often be found at yard sales.\\n\", \"DON'T USE BLEACH! Use a brewery specific sanitizer like \\\"StarSan\\\" or an iodine based food grade sanitizer!\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Be careful when adding the sugar to your bottles for carbonation. If you add too much they can explode!\\n\", \"When boiling the wort, watch for boil-overs. That malt extract is some squirrelly stuff when it starts boiling. Same goes for boiling the DME for priming.\\n\", \"Do NOT use \\\"Brewer's Yeast\\\" as sold in health food stores, etc. This is dead yeast, and won't work!\\n\", \"If you are using a glass carboy, never pour hot wort directly into it, it will break from the temperature difference.\\n\", \"Before adding extract to the boiling water, turn off the heat. Stir it in well, but gently, before turning the heat back on. This helps to avoid scorching the extract, and minimizes the chance of boil-overs.\\n\", \"Check your country's laws about brewing your own brew. A few American states require permits.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
6,980 |
How to Bribe Someone
|
1. Preparing to Bribe Someone
1-1. Decide whether your situation calls for bribery.
Bribery can be useful, but can backfire on you if you're not careful. For example, a mom bribing her kids to finish their vegetables might find herself having to offer a new incentive every night! Alternately, a kid bribing parents to attend a party might come off as manipulative instead of open to compromise. Before deciding to bribe someone, answer the following questions honestly:
Do I really need the thing I'm asking for? Can I handle the situation myself or just go without?
Can I afford to offer something in return?
Will this bribe change people's opinion of me?
Will that make my life harder down the road?
Will the bribe become an expected part of our relationship?
1-2. Ask yourself what specific actions the task requires.
If you’re going to bribe someone, you want to make sure that you get exactly what you want. You need to be as specific as possible when explaining what you need in return for your gift or favor.
There's a better chance the person will agree to a specific action, rather than a vague objective.
For example, "helping me move" could be a three-hour time investment or a week-long investment. Give specific hours and a clear description of what you’re asking the person to do: “I need to borrow your truck Friday and Saturday, from 5-9 p.m., and need your help moving large furniture at that time.”
Be as specific as possible about what you need, so the person you're bribing won't want to say "no" off the bat.
1-3. Make a list of people who could do what you need.
When it comes to bribing, picking the right person to bribe is the name of the game. Start by asking yourself who among your contacts has access to what you need to gain your desired result. You may want to make an actual list while going through phone or Facebook contacts.
In our moving example, you want to skip anyone you know is lazy or too weak to lift heavy furniture for you.
People who are organized efficient, strong and active, and who own trucks will be most useful to you.
1-4. Narrow your list.
First, cross people off the list based on their availability. Think about which people will be legitimately unable help (instead of just not wanting to help). Cross anyone who's out of town, at work, unwell, or otherwise out of action off the list. Also ask yourself who would be most receptive to a bribe. People who might otherwise be too lazy to help you move might perk up if you offer a free round of golf, a weekend of babysitting, or something else they value highly.
1-5. Decide what to bribe them with.
Successfully bribing someone is about finding the right price. A bribe doesn't always have to be about money! You can offer favors in return, goods, services, or anything else you think someone might want. In fact, many people find accepting money vulgar, and you may have more luck by offering a gift than cash. Think about what each person on your list would value most, and personalize your bribes.
For help moving, you might offer to cover gas costs, then sweeten the pot with dinner and drinks once the move is complete.
Open-ended IOUs ("I owe you") can be an effective bribe. Be ready to return the favor when called on, though.
The fewer people who can supply what you want, the more expensive the bribe needs to be. For example, plenty of people can help you move — you can get by offering pizza and beer. But if you're bribing a friend to quit smoking, only one person can provide that favor. You'll need a heftier bribe.
1-6. Make your final decisions on who and how to bribe.
Think of your decision in terms of "return on investment." The people you bribe should be the ones who will offer you the most in return for the gifts that cost you least.
2. Bribing Someone
2-1. Don’t call it a bribe openly.
Even in cultures where bribery is common and accepted, people don't like to think of themselves as bribers or bribes. When approaching the person you're bribing, there are many ways to frame the bribe in different terms.
You might call it a negotiation: "Mom, I'll do extra chores for a whole month if you let me go to this concert."
Frame it as a compromise: "If you waive the late fees on my account, I will sign a new 2-year contract with your company. That way, we both win."
Frame it as a fee: "If you help me move, I'll pay you for your labor and gas."
2-2. Begin early and slowly.
Once you know who to approach and how to bribe them, approach the person you're bribing as far in advance as possible. A number of small gifts over time can prime a person to provide a service in the future without you ever even framing the service as a bribe. They might just want to help you because you've been so nice to them in the past.
Sometimes, you need favors quickly. In that case, ease into the topic slowly. Talk about how difficult the situation is for you and how much you need help before asking for the favor.
Especially when talking to someone you don't know well, you want the person to feel bad for you before you ask for their help.
2-3. Start low.
As with any good negotiation, the person you plan to bribe likely won't respond to your first offer. Treat it like an auction or negotiation. Start with a low bid with the expectation that the amount will probably rise.
Judge the starting point for negotiation based on your knowledge of the person. If you start too low, the person might get offended that you thought you could bribe them so cheaply.
If you start too high, then you might reach the limit of what you can offer before the person feels he's been offered a good deal.
2-4. Negotiate the terms.
Will the gift be given ahead of time? When the favor has been given? Sometime in the future? Make sure the terms of your agreement are clear ahead of time to prevent hard feelings down the line.
Many people may only agree to a bribe if the they're "paid" upfront. "We'll go out for drinks on me as soon as we're finished moving my furniture."
In some situations, the bribe might be drawn out over time, such as with the example of bribing a friend to stop smoking. In this case, you can offer the bribe in smaller chunks based on progress. "Every week you go without smoking, I'll take you out for a nice dinner on the weekend."
2-5. Follow through with your end of the deal.
If you don’t follow through with the gift you offered, you're lying to and taking advantage of people. He or she will remember this and likely never help you again regardless of any of the circumstances. You might also get a reputation for taking advantage of people, making your other friends less likely to help you in the future.
Tips
In most situations, you may be better off simply asking for a favor since many people can see a bribe as shady or vulgar.
Act natural throughout the entire process. If you give the person any reason to believe the situation is crass or tasteless, then they won’t react well to the situation.
Warnings
While bribery is one of many tools with regard to social interaction, it’s illegal or against codes of conduct in many situations where people are meant to be objective and unbiased. Trying to bribe politicians, officials, or even law enforcement can result in highly negative ramifications, making it abundantly ill advised.
If you bribe a government official, you may be charged with a felony.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:58:43",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Preparing to Bribe Someone\\n1-1. Decide whether your situation calls for bribery.\\nBribery can be useful, but can backfire on you if you're not careful. For example, a mom bribing her kids to finish their vegetables might find herself having to offer a new incentive every night! Alternately, a kid bribing parents to attend a party might come off as manipulative instead of open to compromise. Before deciding to bribe someone, answer the following questions honestly: \\nDo I really need the thing I'm asking for? Can I handle the situation myself or just go without?\\nCan I afford to offer something in return?\\nWill this bribe change people's opinion of me?\\nWill that make my life harder down the road?\\nWill the bribe become an expected part of our relationship?\\n1-2. Ask yourself what specific actions the task requires.\\nIf you’re going to bribe someone, you want to make sure that you get exactly what you want. You need to be as specific as possible when explaining what you need in return for your gift or favor. \\nThere's a better chance the person will agree to a specific action, rather than a vague objective.\\nFor example, \\\"helping me move\\\" could be a three-hour time investment or a week-long investment. Give specific hours and a clear description of what you’re asking the person to do: “I need to borrow your truck Friday and Saturday, from 5-9 p.m., and need your help moving large furniture at that time.”\\nBe as specific as possible about what you need, so the person you're bribing won't want to say \\\"no\\\" off the bat.\\n1-3. Make a list of people who could do what you need.\\nWhen it comes to bribing, picking the right person to bribe is the name of the game. Start by asking yourself who among your contacts has access to what you need to gain your desired result. You may want to make an actual list while going through phone or Facebook contacts. \\nIn our moving example, you want to skip anyone you know is lazy or too weak to lift heavy furniture for you.\\nPeople who are organized efficient, strong and active, and who own trucks will be most useful to you.\\n1-4. Narrow your list.\\nFirst, cross people off the list based on their availability. Think about which people will be legitimately unable help (instead of just not wanting to help). Cross anyone who's out of town, at work, unwell, or otherwise out of action off the list. Also ask yourself who would be most receptive to a bribe. People who might otherwise be too lazy to help you move might perk up if you offer a free round of golf, a weekend of babysitting, or something else they value highly.\\n1-5. Decide what to bribe them with.\\nSuccessfully bribing someone is about finding the right price. A bribe doesn't always have to be about money! You can offer favors in return, goods, services, or anything else you think someone might want. In fact, many people find accepting money vulgar, and you may have more luck by offering a gift than cash. Think about what each person on your list would value most, and personalize your bribes. \\nFor help moving, you might offer to cover gas costs, then sweeten the pot with dinner and drinks once the move is complete.\\nOpen-ended IOUs (\\\"I owe you\\\") can be an effective bribe. Be ready to return the favor when called on, though.\\nThe fewer people who can supply what you want, the more expensive the bribe needs to be. For example, plenty of people can help you move — you can get by offering pizza and beer. But if you're bribing a friend to quit smoking, only one person can provide that favor. You'll need a heftier bribe.\\n1-6. Make your final decisions on who and how to bribe.\\nThink of your decision in terms of \\\"return on investment.\\\" The people you bribe should be the ones who will offer you the most in return for the gifts that cost you least.\\n2. Bribing Someone\\n2-1. Don’t call it a bribe openly.\\nEven in cultures where bribery is common and accepted, people don't like to think of themselves as bribers or bribes. When approaching the person you're bribing, there are many ways to frame the bribe in different terms.\\nYou might call it a negotiation: \\\"Mom, I'll do extra chores for a whole month if you let me go to this concert.\\\"\\nFrame it as a compromise: \\\"If you waive the late fees on my account, I will sign a new 2-year contract with your company. That way, we both win.\\\"\\nFrame it as a fee: \\\"If you help me move, I'll pay you for your labor and gas.\\\"\\n2-2. Begin early and slowly.\\nOnce you know who to approach and how to bribe them, approach the person you're bribing as far in advance as possible. A number of small gifts over time can prime a person to provide a service in the future without you ever even framing the service as a bribe. They might just want to help you because you've been so nice to them in the past. \\nSometimes, you need favors quickly. In that case, ease into the topic slowly. Talk about how difficult the situation is for you and how much you need help before asking for the favor.\\nEspecially when talking to someone you don't know well, you want the person to feel bad for you before you ask for their help.\\n2-3. Start low.\\nAs with any good negotiation, the person you plan to bribe likely won't respond to your first offer. Treat it like an auction or negotiation. Start with a low bid with the expectation that the amount will probably rise. \\nJudge the starting point for negotiation based on your knowledge of the person. If you start too low, the person might get offended that you thought you could bribe them so cheaply.\\nIf you start too high, then you might reach the limit of what you can offer before the person feels he's been offered a good deal.\\n2-4. Negotiate the terms.\\nWill the gift be given ahead of time? When the favor has been given? Sometime in the future? Make sure the terms of your agreement are clear ahead of time to prevent hard feelings down the line. \\nMany people may only agree to a bribe if the they're \\\"paid\\\" upfront. \\\"We'll go out for drinks on me as soon as we're finished moving my furniture.\\\"\\nIn some situations, the bribe might be drawn out over time, such as with the example of bribing a friend to stop smoking. In this case, you can offer the bribe in smaller chunks based on progress. \\\"Every week you go without smoking, I'll take you out for a nice dinner on the weekend.\\\"\\n2-5. Follow through with your end of the deal.\\nIf you don’t follow through with the gift you offered, you're lying to and taking advantage of people. He or she will remember this and likely never help you again regardless of any of the circumstances. You might also get a reputation for taking advantage of people, making your other friends less likely to help you in the future.\\nTips\\nIn most situations, you may be better off simply asking for a favor since many people can see a bribe as shady or vulgar.\\nAct natural throughout the entire process. If you give the person any reason to believe the situation is crass or tasteless, then they won’t react well to the situation.\\nWarnings\\nWhile bribery is one of many tools with regard to social interaction, it’s illegal or against codes of conduct in many situations where people are meant to be objective and unbiased. Trying to bribe politicians, officials, or even law enforcement can result in highly negative ramifications, making it abundantly ill advised.\\nIf you bribe a government official, you may be charged with a felony.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"We often think of bribing as “greasing someone’s palm” — something low-handed or even illegal. Some cases of bribery may be unethical or even illegal, but most people use bribery in regular daily interactions! A bribe, in the everyday context, is offering anyone a gift in return for an action or decision the person otherwise might not make. By being aware of who and how to bribe in a given situation, you can maximize the return you get for your bribe!\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Preparing to Bribe Someone\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Decide whether your situation calls for bribery.\", \"描述\": \"Bribery can be useful, but can backfire on you if you're not careful. For example, a mom bribing her kids to finish their vegetables might find herself having to offer a new incentive every night! Alternately, a kid bribing parents to attend a party might come off as manipulative instead of open to compromise. Before deciding to bribe someone, answer the following questions honestly: \\nDo I really need the thing I'm asking for? Can I handle the situation myself or just go without?\\nCan I afford to offer something in return?\\nWill this bribe change people's opinion of me?\\nWill that make my life harder down the road?\\nWill the bribe become an expected part of our relationship?\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Ask yourself what specific actions the task requires.\", \"描述\": \"If you’re going to bribe someone, you want to make sure that you get exactly what you want. You need to be as specific as possible when explaining what you need in return for your gift or favor. \\nThere's a better chance the person will agree to a specific action, rather than a vague objective.\\nFor example, \\\"helping me move\\\" could be a three-hour time investment or a week-long investment. Give specific hours and a clear description of what you’re asking the person to do: “I need to borrow your truck Friday and Saturday, from 5-9 p.m., and need your help moving large furniture at that time.”\\nBe as specific as possible about what you need, so the person you're bribing won't want to say \\\"no\\\" off the bat.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Make a list of people who could do what you need.\", \"描述\": \"When it comes to bribing, picking the right person to bribe is the name of the game. Start by asking yourself who among your contacts has access to what you need to gain your desired result. You may want to make an actual list while going through phone or Facebook contacts. \\nIn our moving example, you want to skip anyone you know is lazy or too weak to lift heavy furniture for you.\\nPeople who are organized efficient, strong and active, and who own trucks will be most useful to you.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Narrow your list.\", \"描述\": \"First, cross people off the list based on their availability. Think about which people will be legitimately unable help (instead of just not wanting to help). Cross anyone who's out of town, at work, unwell, or otherwise out of action off the list. Also ask yourself who would be most receptive to a bribe. People who might otherwise be too lazy to help you move might perk up if you offer a free round of golf, a weekend of babysitting, or something else they value highly.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Decide what to bribe them with.\", \"描述\": \"Successfully bribing someone is about finding the right price. A bribe doesn't always have to be about money! You can offer favors in return, goods, services, or anything else you think someone might want. In fact, many people find accepting money vulgar, and you may have more luck by offering a gift than cash. Think about what each person on your list would value most, and personalize your bribes. \\nFor help moving, you might offer to cover gas costs, then sweeten the pot with dinner and drinks once the move is complete.\\nOpen-ended IOUs (\\\"I owe you\\\") can be an effective bribe. Be ready to return the favor when called on, though.\\nThe fewer people who can supply what you want, the more expensive the bribe needs to be. For example, plenty of people can help you move — you can get by offering pizza and beer. But if you're bribing a friend to quit smoking, only one person can provide that favor. You'll need a heftier bribe.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Make your final decisions on who and how to bribe.\", \"描述\": \"Think of your decision in terms of \\\"return on investment.\\\" The people you bribe should be the ones who will offer you the most in return for the gifts that cost you least.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Bribing Someone\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Don’t call it a bribe openly.\", \"描述\": \"Even in cultures where bribery is common and accepted, people don't like to think of themselves as bribers or bribes. When approaching the person you're bribing, there are many ways to frame the bribe in different terms.\\nYou might call it a negotiation: \\\"Mom, I'll do extra chores for a whole month if you let me go to this concert.\\\"\\nFrame it as a compromise: \\\"If you waive the late fees on my account, I will sign a new 2-year contract with your company. That way, we both win.\\\"\\nFrame it as a fee: \\\"If you help me move, I'll pay you for your labor and gas.\\\"\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Begin early and slowly.\", \"描述\": \"Once you know who to approach and how to bribe them, approach the person you're bribing as far in advance as possible. A number of small gifts over time can prime a person to provide a service in the future without you ever even framing the service as a bribe. They might just want to help you because you've been so nice to them in the past. \\nSometimes, you need favors quickly. In that case, ease into the topic slowly. Talk about how difficult the situation is for you and how much you need help before asking for the favor.\\nEspecially when talking to someone you don't know well, you want the person to feel bad for you before you ask for their help.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Start low.\", \"描述\": \"As with any good negotiation, the person you plan to bribe likely won't respond to your first offer. Treat it like an auction or negotiation. Start with a low bid with the expectation that the amount will probably rise. \\nJudge the starting point for negotiation based on your knowledge of the person. If you start too low, the person might get offended that you thought you could bribe them so cheaply.\\nIf you start too high, then you might reach the limit of what you can offer before the person feels he's been offered a good deal.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Negotiate the terms.\", \"描述\": \"Will the gift be given ahead of time? When the favor has been given? Sometime in the future? Make sure the terms of your agreement are clear ahead of time to prevent hard feelings down the line. \\nMany people may only agree to a bribe if the they're \\\"paid\\\" upfront. \\\"We'll go out for drinks on me as soon as we're finished moving my furniture.\\\"\\nIn some situations, the bribe might be drawn out over time, such as with the example of bribing a friend to stop smoking. In this case, you can offer the bribe in smaller chunks based on progress. \\\"Every week you go without smoking, I'll take you out for a nice dinner on the weekend.\\\"\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Follow through with your end of the deal.\", \"描述\": \"If you don’t follow through with the gift you offered, you're lying to and taking advantage of people. He or she will remember this and likely never help you again regardless of any of the circumstances. You might also get a reputation for taking advantage of people, making your other friends less likely to help you in the future.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"In most situations, you may be better off simply asking for a favor since many people can see a bribe as shady or vulgar.\\n\", \"Act natural throughout the entire process. If you give the person any reason to believe the situation is crass or tasteless, then they won’t react well to the situation.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"While bribery is one of many tools with regard to social interaction, it’s illegal or against codes of conduct in many situations where people are meant to be objective and unbiased. Trying to bribe politicians, officials, or even law enforcement can result in highly negative ramifications, making it abundantly ill advised.\\n\", \"If you bribe a government official, you may be charged with a felony.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
6,981 |
How to Bridge Subwoofers for Your Home or Car Stereo
|
1. Preparing to Wire Your Subs to a Bridged Amp
1-1. Locate the specification labels for your system.
Your amp should have a label near the speaker output jack that indicates the output power (measured in Watts) and the minimum impedance (measured in Ohms). Be sure that your use the values for bridged mode, it is usually double the minimum impedance as stereo mode (meaning you need a much high impedance to run a bridged system) and up to four times the power output. Your sub-woofers should also be labeled with an impedance value (in Ohms) and a value indicating the maximum power input that they can handle (in Watts).The majority of amps on the home theater market are only stable at 4 ohms when bridged. Most car stereo amplifiers can do 2 ohms.
1-2. Write down these values.
You should have at least four different values written down.
Amp Bridged Output Power
Amp Bridged Minimum Impedance
Speaker Power Rating
Speaker Impedance
1-3. Calculate the total impedance of all of your speakers.
To do this you should add together the speaker impedance number for all of your speakers. You want the impedance to be at least equal to the minimum impedance value of your amp on each channel, but not to exceed 16 Ohms unless your amp is specifically rated for impedance values above 16 Ohms.
The formula for finding total impedance for speakers wired in series is Z1 + Z2 + Z3 …. = Ztotal. Where Z is the impedance of a given speaker.
For example, if you have three speakers with impedance values of 4 Ohms, 6 Ohms, and 8 Ohms your total impedance wired in series would be 18 Ohms (4+6+8=18).
The formula for finding total impedance of speakers wired in parallel is a little trickier. It is (Z1 x Z2 x Z3…) / (Z1 + Z2 + Z3…) =Ztotal.
So say you have two speakers with impedances of 6 Ohms and 8 Ohms. This time it would look like this: 1) Multiply the values. 6 x 8 = 48 Ohms 2) Add the values. 6 + 8 = 14 Ohms 3) Divide the top by the bottom to find your total impedance. 48/14 = 3.43 Ohms (rounded)
You can also use an impedance calculator such as this one http://www.speakerimpedance.co.uk/.
1-4. Calculate the power each speaker will receive.
This will be based upon the total impedance and the power output of your amplifier. You can use variations of Ohm’s Law to do the calculations yourself or you can refer to the online calculator above. You do not want to overpower and blow your speakers.
1-5. Verify that your amp has enough power for your subs.
The output power should be stamped near the output jack on your amplifier and measured in Watts. You speakers should also be labeled with a wattage. The output wattage should meet or exceed the sum of all of your speakers. For example if you have two subs that each pull 200 W, you would want an amp that produces a minimum of 400 W. Ideally you would have an amp that produces more than what is required, this is referred to as "head room" and helps to avoid clipping.
1-6. Unplug your equipment.
Wiring powered devices can be dangerous. If you are working on a car stereo system you can simply disconnect the battery terminals.
2. Wiring Single Voice Coil Subs to a Bridged Amp
2-1. Get a roll of stereo wire.
You will need this wire to make the connections from your amplifier to your sub-woofers.
12- to 16 gauge speaker wire is recommended for use with subwoofers.
See How to Wire Speakers for tips on connecting speaker wires.
2-2. Wire the amplifier to the subwoofers.
Check to see which two terminals are used for bridge mode on your amplifier. This will be labeled on the amp. Wire the first sub by running a wire from the positive terminal on the amp to the positive bridge terminal on the sub.
2-3. Wire the second subwoofer to the first subwoofer.
If you wish to wire them in series, run a single wire from the negative terminal of the first sub to the positive terminal of the second sub. If you wish to wire them in parallel you will run two wires between the two subs. The firs will connect the two positive terminals, and the second will connect the two negative terminals.
2-4. Complete the circuit.
Connect the wire from the second sub's negative terminal to the negative bridge terminal on the amp. This will complete the circuit whether you are wiring in parallel or in series.
3. Wiring Dual Voice Coil Subs to a Bridged Amp
3-1. Wire the amplifier to the first subwoofer.
The wiring here will be similar to wiring a single voice coil (SVC) sub-woofer. The difference to remember is that dual voice coil (DVC) subs have two coils, and thus four input terminals. Two of them are positive and two are negative. Choose one of the positive terminals and connect it to the positive bridged terminal of the amp.
3-2. Connect the two coils.
Just like wiring two separate speakers, the two coils within your DVC can be wired in series (increasing the sub's impedance) or in parallel (decreasing the sub's impedance).
If you are wiring the coils in series then run a wire from the positive terminal of the first coil (the one wired to the amp) to the negative terminal of the second coil and from the negative terminal of the first coil to the positive terminal of the second.
If you are wiring the coils in parallel then run a wire from the first positive terminal to the second positive terminal and a wire from the first negative terminal to the second negative terminal.
3-3. Wire the second subwoofer to the first subwoofer.
Again, you have the series verses parallel debate.
If you choose to wire the subs in series, connect the negative end of the second coil in the first sub to the positive end of the first coil in the second sub (these circuits can get complicated fast). Next, connect the negative end of the first coil to the positive end of the second coil. Finally connect the negative end of the second coil to the negative bridged terminal on the amp.
If wiring in parallel, connect the negative end of the first sub's second coil to the negative end of the second sub's second coil. Connect the positive end of the first sub's first coil to the positive end of the second sub's first coil.
3-4. Connect the second sub's coils.
Follow the same guidelines as when you connected the first sub's coils.
3-5. Complete the circuit.
Now comes the easy part. Regardless of which combinations of series and parallels you chose above to get the proper impedance and power distribution in your system, closing the circuit will be one easy step. Run a wire to connect the negative terminal of the second coil in your second sub to the negative bridged terminal of the amp.
3-6. Listen for inconsistencies.
Power up your system and test it out. Start at a low volume and then slowly increase it to listen for anything that doesn’t sound right, like static or a difference in volume between the two subwoofers. If the bass and sub-bass are quiet or not present at all, something is mis-wired.
Tips
Experts recommend using two identical subwoofers for optimal sonic quality.
For tips on the best way to set up your home network, see How to Wire Speakers.
Warnings
Use caution when wiring any electrical devices.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:58:43",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Preparing to Wire Your Subs to a Bridged Amp\\n1-1. Locate the specification labels for your system.\\nYour amp should have a label near the speaker output jack that indicates the output power (measured in Watts) and the minimum impedance (measured in Ohms). Be sure that your use the values for bridged mode, it is usually double the minimum impedance as stereo mode (meaning you need a much high impedance to run a bridged system) and up to four times the power output. Your sub-woofers should also be labeled with an impedance value (in Ohms) and a value indicating the maximum power input that they can handle (in Watts).The majority of amps on the home theater market are only stable at 4 ohms when bridged. Most car stereo amplifiers can do 2 ohms.\\n1-2. Write down these values.\\nYou should have at least four different values written down.\\nAmp Bridged Output Power\\nAmp Bridged Minimum Impedance\\nSpeaker Power Rating\\nSpeaker Impedance\\n1-3. Calculate the total impedance of all of your speakers.\\nTo do this you should add together the speaker impedance number for all of your speakers. You want the impedance to be at least equal to the minimum impedance value of your amp on each channel, but not to exceed 16 Ohms unless your amp is specifically rated for impedance values above 16 Ohms.\\nThe formula for finding total impedance for speakers wired in series is Z1 + Z2 + Z3 …. = Ztotal. Where Z is the impedance of a given speaker.\\nFor example, if you have three speakers with impedance values of 4 Ohms, 6 Ohms, and 8 Ohms your total impedance wired in series would be 18 Ohms (4+6+8=18).\\nThe formula for finding total impedance of speakers wired in parallel is a little trickier. It is (Z1 x Z2 x Z3…) / (Z1 + Z2 + Z3…) =Ztotal.\\nSo say you have two speakers with impedances of 6 Ohms and 8 Ohms. This time it would look like this: 1) Multiply the values. 6 x 8 = 48 Ohms 2) Add the values. 6 + 8 = 14 Ohms 3) Divide the top by the bottom to find your total impedance. 48/14 = 3.43 Ohms (rounded)\\nYou can also use an impedance calculator such as this one http://www.speakerimpedance.co.uk/.\\n1-4. Calculate the power each speaker will receive.\\nThis will be based upon the total impedance and the power output of your amplifier. You can use variations of Ohm’s Law to do the calculations yourself or you can refer to the online calculator above. You do not want to overpower and blow your speakers.\\n1-5. Verify that your amp has enough power for your subs.\\nThe output power should be stamped near the output jack on your amplifier and measured in Watts. You speakers should also be labeled with a wattage. The output wattage should meet or exceed the sum of all of your speakers. For example if you have two subs that each pull 200 W, you would want an amp that produces a minimum of 400 W. Ideally you would have an amp that produces more than what is required, this is referred to as \\\"head room\\\" and helps to avoid clipping.\\n1-6. Unplug your equipment.\\nWiring powered devices can be dangerous. If you are working on a car stereo system you can simply disconnect the battery terminals.\\n2. Wiring Single Voice Coil Subs to a Bridged Amp\\n2-1. Get a roll of stereo wire.\\nYou will need this wire to make the connections from your amplifier to your sub-woofers.\\n12- to 16 gauge speaker wire is recommended for use with subwoofers.\\nSee How to Wire Speakers for tips on connecting speaker wires.\\n2-2. Wire the amplifier to the subwoofers.\\nCheck to see which two terminals are used for bridge mode on your amplifier. This will be labeled on the amp. Wire the first sub by running a wire from the positive terminal on the amp to the positive bridge terminal on the sub.\\n2-3. Wire the second subwoofer to the first subwoofer.\\nIf you wish to wire them in series, run a single wire from the negative terminal of the first sub to the positive terminal of the second sub. If you wish to wire them in parallel you will run two wires between the two subs. The firs will connect the two positive terminals, and the second will connect the two negative terminals.\\n2-4. Complete the circuit.\\nConnect the wire from the second sub's negative terminal to the negative bridge terminal on the amp. This will complete the circuit whether you are wiring in parallel or in series.\\n3. Wiring Dual Voice Coil Subs to a Bridged Amp\\n3-1. Wire the amplifier to the first subwoofer.\\nThe wiring here will be similar to wiring a single voice coil (SVC) sub-woofer. The difference to remember is that dual voice coil (DVC) subs have two coils, and thus four input terminals. Two of them are positive and two are negative. Choose one of the positive terminals and connect it to the positive bridged terminal of the amp.\\n3-2. Connect the two coils.\\nJust like wiring two separate speakers, the two coils within your DVC can be wired in series (increasing the sub's impedance) or in parallel (decreasing the sub's impedance). \\nIf you are wiring the coils in series then run a wire from the positive terminal of the first coil (the one wired to the amp) to the negative terminal of the second coil and from the negative terminal of the first coil to the positive terminal of the second.\\nIf you are wiring the coils in parallel then run a wire from the first positive terminal to the second positive terminal and a wire from the first negative terminal to the second negative terminal.\\n3-3. Wire the second subwoofer to the first subwoofer.\\nAgain, you have the series verses parallel debate. \\nIf you choose to wire the subs in series, connect the negative end of the second coil in the first sub to the positive end of the first coil in the second sub (these circuits can get complicated fast). Next, connect the negative end of the first coil to the positive end of the second coil. Finally connect the negative end of the second coil to the negative bridged terminal on the amp.\\nIf wiring in parallel, connect the negative end of the first sub's second coil to the negative end of the second sub's second coil. Connect the positive end of the first sub's first coil to the positive end of the second sub's first coil.\\n3-4. Connect the second sub's coils.\\nFollow the same guidelines as when you connected the first sub's coils.\\n3-5. Complete the circuit.\\nNow comes the easy part. Regardless of which combinations of series and parallels you chose above to get the proper impedance and power distribution in your system, closing the circuit will be one easy step. Run a wire to connect the negative terminal of the second coil in your second sub to the negative bridged terminal of the amp.\\n3-6. Listen for inconsistencies.\\nPower up your system and test it out. Start at a low volume and then slowly increase it to listen for anything that doesn’t sound right, like static or a difference in volume between the two subwoofers. If the bass and sub-bass are quiet or not present at all, something is mis-wired.\\nTips\\nExperts recommend using two identical subwoofers for optimal sonic quality.\\nFor tips on the best way to set up your home network, see How to Wire Speakers.\\nWarnings\\nUse caution when wiring any electrical devices.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"The term \\\"bridging sub-woofers\\\" is a bit misleading. The phrase actually refers to wiring the sub-woofers up to a bridged amplifier to produce fuller, deeper bass. This generally leads to a superior sonic experience coming from your home or car stereo system. Learning the ins and outs of a bridged circuit is important, though, as an improper setup can damage your equipment.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Preparing to Wire Your Subs to a Bridged Amp\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Locate the specification labels for your system.\", \"描述\": \"Your amp should have a label near the speaker output jack that indicates the output power (measured in Watts) and the minimum impedance (measured in Ohms). Be sure that your use the values for bridged mode, it is usually double the minimum impedance as stereo mode (meaning you need a much high impedance to run a bridged system) and up to four times the power output. Your sub-woofers should also be labeled with an impedance value (in Ohms) and a value indicating the maximum power input that they can handle (in Watts).The majority of amps on the home theater market are only stable at 4 ohms when bridged. Most car stereo amplifiers can do 2 ohms.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Write down these values.\", \"描述\": \"You should have at least four different values written down.\\nAmp Bridged Output Power\\nAmp Bridged Minimum Impedance\\nSpeaker Power Rating\\nSpeaker Impedance\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Calculate the total impedance of all of your speakers.\", \"描述\": \"To do this you should add together the speaker impedance number for all of your speakers. You want the impedance to be at least equal to the minimum impedance value of your amp on each channel, but not to exceed 16 Ohms unless your amp is specifically rated for impedance values above 16 Ohms.\\nThe formula for finding total impedance for speakers wired in series is Z1 + Z2 + Z3 …. = Ztotal. Where Z is the impedance of a given speaker.\\nFor example, if you have three speakers with impedance values of 4 Ohms, 6 Ohms, and 8 Ohms your total impedance wired in series would be 18 Ohms (4+6+8=18).\\nThe formula for finding total impedance of speakers wired in parallel is a little trickier. It is (Z1 x Z2 x Z3…) / (Z1 + Z2 + Z3…) =Ztotal.\\nSo say you have two speakers with impedances of 6 Ohms and 8 Ohms. This time it would look like this: 1) Multiply the values. 6 x 8 = 48 Ohms 2) Add the values. 6 + 8 = 14 Ohms 3) Divide the top by the bottom to find your total impedance. 48/14 = 3.43 Ohms (rounded)\\nYou can also use an impedance calculator such as this one http://www.speakerimpedance.co.uk/.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Calculate the power each speaker will receive.\", \"描述\": \"This will be based upon the total impedance and the power output of your amplifier. You can use variations of Ohm’s Law to do the calculations yourself or you can refer to the online calculator above. You do not want to overpower and blow your speakers.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Verify that your amp has enough power for your subs.\", \"描述\": \"The output power should be stamped near the output jack on your amplifier and measured in Watts. You speakers should also be labeled with a wattage. The output wattage should meet or exceed the sum of all of your speakers. For example if you have two subs that each pull 200 W, you would want an amp that produces a minimum of 400 W. Ideally you would have an amp that produces more than what is required, this is referred to as \\\"head room\\\" and helps to avoid clipping.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Unplug your equipment.\", \"描述\": \"Wiring powered devices can be dangerous. If you are working on a car stereo system you can simply disconnect the battery terminals.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Wiring Single Voice Coil Subs to a Bridged Amp\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Get a roll of stereo wire.\", \"描述\": \"You will need this wire to make the connections from your amplifier to your sub-woofers.\\n12- to 16 gauge speaker wire is recommended for use with subwoofers.\\nSee How to Wire Speakers for tips on connecting speaker wires.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Wire the amplifier to the subwoofers.\", \"描述\": \"Check to see which two terminals are used for bridge mode on your amplifier. This will be labeled on the amp. Wire the first sub by running a wire from the positive terminal on the amp to the positive bridge terminal on the sub.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Wire the second subwoofer to the first subwoofer.\", \"描述\": \"If you wish to wire them in series, run a single wire from the negative terminal of the first sub to the positive terminal of the second sub. If you wish to wire them in parallel you will run two wires between the two subs. The firs will connect the two positive terminals, and the second will connect the two negative terminals.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Complete the circuit.\", \"描述\": \"Connect the wire from the second sub's negative terminal to the negative bridge terminal on the amp. This will complete the circuit whether you are wiring in parallel or in series.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Wiring Dual Voice Coil Subs to a Bridged Amp\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Wire the amplifier to the first subwoofer.\", \"描述\": \"The wiring here will be similar to wiring a single voice coil (SVC) sub-woofer. The difference to remember is that dual voice coil (DVC) subs have two coils, and thus four input terminals. Two of them are positive and two are negative. Choose one of the positive terminals and connect it to the positive bridged terminal of the amp.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Connect the two coils.\", \"描述\": \"Just like wiring two separate speakers, the two coils within your DVC can be wired in series (increasing the sub's impedance) or in parallel (decreasing the sub's impedance). \\nIf you are wiring the coils in series then run a wire from the positive terminal of the first coil (the one wired to the amp) to the negative terminal of the second coil and from the negative terminal of the first coil to the positive terminal of the second.\\nIf you are wiring the coils in parallel then run a wire from the first positive terminal to the second positive terminal and a wire from the first negative terminal to the second negative terminal.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Wire the second subwoofer to the first subwoofer.\", \"描述\": \"Again, you have the series verses parallel debate. \\nIf you choose to wire the subs in series, connect the negative end of the second coil in the first sub to the positive end of the first coil in the second sub (these circuits can get complicated fast). Next, connect the negative end of the first coil to the positive end of the second coil. Finally connect the negative end of the second coil to the negative bridged terminal on the amp.\\nIf wiring in parallel, connect the negative end of the first sub's second coil to the negative end of the second sub's second coil. Connect the positive end of the first sub's first coil to the positive end of the second sub's first coil.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Connect the second sub's coils.\", \"描述\": \"Follow the same guidelines as when you connected the first sub's coils.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Complete the circuit.\", \"描述\": \"Now comes the easy part. Regardless of which combinations of series and parallels you chose above to get the proper impedance and power distribution in your system, closing the circuit will be one easy step. Run a wire to connect the negative terminal of the second coil in your second sub to the negative bridged terminal of the amp.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Listen for inconsistencies.\", \"描述\": \"Power up your system and test it out. Start at a low volume and then slowly increase it to listen for anything that doesn’t sound right, like static or a difference in volume between the two subwoofers. If the bass and sub-bass are quiet or not present at all, something is mis-wired.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Experts recommend using two identical subwoofers for optimal sonic quality.\\n\", \"For tips on the best way to set up your home network, see How to Wire Speakers.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Use caution when wiring any electrical devices.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
6,982 |
How to Bridge an Amplifier
|
1. Two-Channel Amps
1-1. Make sure your amplifier can be bridged.
This should be indicated on the documentation pamphlets that came with the amplifier, or the amplifier itself. If the amplifier is used, or lacks documentation, go online and check for the specifications on the manufacturer's website.
Bridging an amplifier cuts the resistance load (measured in ohms) in half, which can cause it to overheat. Be sure to check your manual (or the manufacturer’s website) to see if once connected to a speaker, whether or not your amplifier can function at half the ohms it currently uses.
Most amplifiers have a small diagram near the channels indicating the terminals you would use to bridge it. If your amplifier does not claim to be able to bridge, . It may already be bridged internally, and you could cause damage to your amplifier.
Be aware of the fact that if your amplifier is a stereo amplifier (amplifying both left and right), bridging it would cause it to become a mono amplifier (amplifying from one; either the left or right).
1-2. Know the layout of your equipment.
On your two-channel amp, you should see 4 terminals: a positive (+) and a negative (-) for channel 1, and a positive (+) and a negative (-) for channel 2. Each terminal will be labeled as follows:
Channel 1
"A" (positive)
"B" (negative)
Channel 2
"C" (positive)
"D" (negative)
1-3. Connect the amplifier to one speaker.
From the wires coming out of the speaker, connect the positive speaker lead to terminal (the positive for channel 1) and connect the negative speaker lead to terminal (the negative for channel 2). Connect these wires by unscrewing the screw in that terminal, placing the wire in between the top and bottom portions of the terminal, and then screw the screw down tightly to secure the wire.
The wires coming from the speaker are going to be insulated with a plastic coating. You will need to strip off a small portion of the wire insulation (less than 1 inch) using a pair of wire strippers in order to secure it to the terminals.
What this connection does is it combines the power from the two separate channels, doubling your power output.
2. Four-Channel Amps
2-1. Know your amplifier.
Just like method 1, you must figure out if your four-channel amplifier can be bridged. Taking all the same precautions, be sure to consult the amplifier manual or research your amp model online to be sure it can be bridged.
2-2. Know the layout of your equipment.
On your four-channel amp, you should see 8 terminals: channels 1 through 4 each have a positive (+) and negative (-) terminal. Each terminal will be labeled as follows:
Channel 1
"A" (positive)
"B" (negative)
Channel 2
"C" (positive)
"D" (negative)
Channel 3
"E" (positive)
"F" (negative)
Channel 4
"G" (positive)
"H" (negative)
2-3. Connect the amp to the first speaker.
From the wires coming out of the speaker, connect the positive speaker lead to terminal (the positive for channel 1) and connect the negative speaker lead to terminal (the negative for channel 2). Again, just like bridging a two-channel amplifier, connect these speaker wires to the amplifier by unscrewing the screw in that whichever terminal you are connecting the wire to, place the wire in between the top and bottom portions of the terminal, and then screw the screw down tightly to secure the wire.
Once the wires are secured, the first speaker is connected to the amplifier.
2-4. Connect the amp to the second speaker.
Following the previous method, again take the wires coming from the second speaker, but this time, connect the positive speaker lead to terminal (the positive for channel 3) and connect the negative speaker lead to terminal (the negative for channel 4).
Tips
Before trying to connect anything, you can quickly and easily consult an electronics or car audio store.
Try to stay one level above the amplifiers lowest rated resistance. For example, if your amplifier says that it can handle 2 Ohms, wire it so it produces 4 Ohms. If you go lower than its displayed lowest rated resistance, your amp could shut off.
Warnings
Be extra careful when bridging a four-channel amp! This can put too much strain on your alternator or speaker.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:58:44",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Two-Channel Amps\\n1-1. Make sure your amplifier can be bridged.\\nThis should be indicated on the documentation pamphlets that came with the amplifier, or the amplifier itself. If the amplifier is used, or lacks documentation, go online and check for the specifications on the manufacturer's website.\\nBridging an amplifier cuts the resistance load (measured in ohms) in half, which can cause it to overheat. Be sure to check your manual (or the manufacturer’s website) to see if once connected to a speaker, whether or not your amplifier can function at half the ohms it currently uses.\\nMost amplifiers have a small diagram near the channels indicating the terminals you would use to bridge it. If your amplifier does not claim to be able to bridge, . It may already be bridged internally, and you could cause damage to your amplifier.\\nBe aware of the fact that if your amplifier is a stereo amplifier (amplifying both left and right), bridging it would cause it to become a mono amplifier (amplifying from one; either the left or right).\\n1-2. Know the layout of your equipment.\\nOn your two-channel amp, you should see 4 terminals: a positive (+) and a negative (-) for channel 1, and a positive (+) and a negative (-) for channel 2. Each terminal will be labeled as follows:\\nChannel 1\\n\\\"A\\\" (positive)\\n\\\"B\\\" (negative)\\n\\nChannel 2\\n\\\"C\\\" (positive)\\n\\\"D\\\" (negative)\\n1-3. Connect the amplifier to one speaker.\\nFrom the wires coming out of the speaker, connect the positive speaker lead to terminal (the positive for channel 1) and connect the negative speaker lead to terminal (the negative for channel 2). Connect these wires by unscrewing the screw in that terminal, placing the wire in between the top and bottom portions of the terminal, and then screw the screw down tightly to secure the wire.\\nThe wires coming from the speaker are going to be insulated with a plastic coating. You will need to strip off a small portion of the wire insulation (less than 1 inch) using a pair of wire strippers in order to secure it to the terminals.\\nWhat this connection does is it combines the power from the two separate channels, doubling your power output.\\n2. Four-Channel Amps\\n2-1. Know your amplifier.\\nJust like method 1, you must figure out if your four-channel amplifier can be bridged. Taking all the same precautions, be sure to consult the amplifier manual or research your amp model online to be sure it can be bridged.\\n2-2. Know the layout of your equipment.\\nOn your four-channel amp, you should see 8 terminals: channels 1 through 4 each have a positive (+) and negative (-) terminal. Each terminal will be labeled as follows:\\nChannel 1\\n\\\"A\\\" (positive)\\n\\\"B\\\" (negative)\\n\\nChannel 2\\n\\\"C\\\" (positive)\\n\\\"D\\\" (negative)\\n\\nChannel 3\\n\\\"E\\\" (positive)\\n\\\"F\\\" (negative)\\n\\nChannel 4\\n\\\"G\\\" (positive)\\n\\\"H\\\" (negative)\\n2-3. Connect the amp to the first speaker.\\nFrom the wires coming out of the speaker, connect the positive speaker lead to terminal (the positive for channel 1) and connect the negative speaker lead to terminal (the negative for channel 2). Again, just like bridging a two-channel amplifier, connect these speaker wires to the amplifier by unscrewing the screw in that whichever terminal you are connecting the wire to, place the wire in between the top and bottom portions of the terminal, and then screw the screw down tightly to secure the wire.\\nOnce the wires are secured, the first speaker is connected to the amplifier.\\n2-4. Connect the amp to the second speaker.\\nFollowing the previous method, again take the wires coming from the second speaker, but this time, connect the positive speaker lead to terminal (the positive for channel 3) and connect the negative speaker lead to terminal (the negative for channel 4).\\nTips\\nBefore trying to connect anything, you can quickly and easily consult an electronics or car audio store.\\nTry to stay one level above the amplifiers lowest rated resistance. For example, if your amplifier says that it can handle 2 Ohms, wire it so it produces 4 Ohms. If you go lower than its displayed lowest rated resistance, your amp could shut off.\\nWarnings\\nBe extra careful when bridging a four-channel amp! This can put too much strain on your alternator or speaker.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Bridging an amplifier combines the available channels into one channel with half the ohm (Ω). It is commonly used in car stereo systems, allowing a powerful mono signal to be sent to a subwoofer.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Two-Channel Amps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Make sure your amplifier can be bridged.\", \"描述\": \"This should be indicated on the documentation pamphlets that came with the amplifier, or the amplifier itself. If the amplifier is used, or lacks documentation, go online and check for the specifications on the manufacturer's website.\\nBridging an amplifier cuts the resistance load (measured in ohms) in half, which can cause it to overheat. Be sure to check your manual (or the manufacturer’s website) to see if once connected to a speaker, whether or not your amplifier can function at half the ohms it currently uses.\\nMost amplifiers have a small diagram near the channels indicating the terminals you would use to bridge it. If your amplifier does not claim to be able to bridge, . It may already be bridged internally, and you could cause damage to your amplifier.\\nBe aware of the fact that if your amplifier is a stereo amplifier (amplifying both left and right), bridging it would cause it to become a mono amplifier (amplifying from one; either the left or right).\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Know the layout of your equipment.\", \"描述\": \"On your two-channel amp, you should see 4 terminals: a positive (+) and a negative (-) for channel 1, and a positive (+) and a negative (-) for channel 2. Each terminal will be labeled as follows:\\nChannel 1\\n\\\"A\\\" (positive)\\n\\\"B\\\" (negative)\\n\\nChannel 2\\n\\\"C\\\" (positive)\\n\\\"D\\\" (negative)\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Connect the amplifier to one speaker.\", \"描述\": \"From the wires coming out of the speaker, connect the positive speaker lead to terminal (the positive for channel 1) and connect the negative speaker lead to terminal (the negative for channel 2). Connect these wires by unscrewing the screw in that terminal, placing the wire in between the top and bottom portions of the terminal, and then screw the screw down tightly to secure the wire.\\nThe wires coming from the speaker are going to be insulated with a plastic coating. You will need to strip off a small portion of the wire insulation (less than 1 inch) using a pair of wire strippers in order to secure it to the terminals.\\nWhat this connection does is it combines the power from the two separate channels, doubling your power output.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Four-Channel Amps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Know your amplifier.\", \"描述\": \"Just like method 1, you must figure out if your four-channel amplifier can be bridged. Taking all the same precautions, be sure to consult the amplifier manual or research your amp model online to be sure it can be bridged.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Know the layout of your equipment.\", \"描述\": \"On your four-channel amp, you should see 8 terminals: channels 1 through 4 each have a positive (+) and negative (-) terminal. Each terminal will be labeled as follows:\\nChannel 1\\n\\\"A\\\" (positive)\\n\\\"B\\\" (negative)\\n\\nChannel 2\\n\\\"C\\\" (positive)\\n\\\"D\\\" (negative)\\n\\nChannel 3\\n\\\"E\\\" (positive)\\n\\\"F\\\" (negative)\\n\\nChannel 4\\n\\\"G\\\" (positive)\\n\\\"H\\\" (negative)\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Connect the amp to the first speaker.\", \"描述\": \"From the wires coming out of the speaker, connect the positive speaker lead to terminal (the positive for channel 1) and connect the negative speaker lead to terminal (the negative for channel 2). Again, just like bridging a two-channel amplifier, connect these speaker wires to the amplifier by unscrewing the screw in that whichever terminal you are connecting the wire to, place the wire in between the top and bottom portions of the terminal, and then screw the screw down tightly to secure the wire.\\nOnce the wires are secured, the first speaker is connected to the amplifier.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Connect the amp to the second speaker.\", \"描述\": \"Following the previous method, again take the wires coming from the second speaker, but this time, connect the positive speaker lead to terminal (the positive for channel 3) and connect the negative speaker lead to terminal (the negative for channel 4).\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Before trying to connect anything, you can quickly and easily consult an electronics or car audio store.\\n\", \"Try to stay one level above the amplifiers lowest rated resistance. For example, if your amplifier says that it can handle 2 Ohms, wire it so it produces 4 Ohms. If you go lower than its displayed lowest rated resistance, your amp could shut off.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Be extra careful when bridging a four-channel amp! This can put too much strain on your alternator or speaker.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
6,983 |
How to Bridge an Internet Connection
|
1. Steps
1-1. Make sure the relevant machines and crossover cable are working.
To see if the cable is working, plug it into both machines. If the port lights up, then you know that it works. If it does not light up, the cord is not in working order.
1-2. Get started.
On both machines, go to the start menu, open the control panel and go to "Network and Internet". The Local Area Connection (LAN) should show up with no internet access in the window.
1-3. Create the bridge on the host machine.
Go to "Change adapter settings" on the left pane on the host machine. Two or more connections should show up. Highlight both Local Area Connection and Wireless Network Connection. Right click one of the icons you highlighted and an options menu should come up with only "Bridge Connection". Click it and it should take a second to set up the connection.
Bridge already working? Some machines cards will automatically assign the needed network information for you. If it does, an icon on the client machine's task bar will show up with a monitor and a fork like plug showing beside it. If the icon has a caution sign, it means that the information needs to be assigned manually.
1-4. Do error checking.
A new icon should show up in the window called "Network Bridge" and it should display the name of the wireless network you are connected to below "Network Bridge". If not, repeat step 3 to remove the bridge and restart the process.
1-5. Access the command line.
Still on the host machine, open the start menu and in the search bar type "CMD". Open Notepad and be prepared to write down your network information.
1-6. Get the machine's network information.
In the CMD window, type "ipconfig /all". A large list of information should show up. Scroll to the top and look for "Ethernet adapter Network Bridge:", copy the IPv4 Address, Subnet Mask, Default Gateway, and the DNS Servers.
1-7. Perform a client machine setup.
On the client machine, click on "Local Area Connection". A window should pop up called "Local Area Connection Status"; select Properties, and in that window double click "Internet Protocol Version 4 (TCP/IPv4)".
1-8. Enter the IP information.
To enter the network information, select "Use the following IP Address". Now the three bars should be lit up. In the IP address row, enter the IPv4 address from the host machine, and for the last section of numbers increase it by 1.
Example: 192.168.1.179 becomes 192.168.1.180. The Subnet Mask is the same as what was copied as with the Default Gateway.
1-9. Check the DNS servers.
The DNS servers will also be changed to what was copied down from the host machine's network information. For the first row, enter the information as it was from the Host, and in the second row put in the same number but increase the last number by 1.
Example: 192.168.1.1 and 192.168.1.2.
1-10. Finalize the connection.
Click the box about Validating Settings upon exit and click OK. It will take a second to validate but the connection should start working a few seconds after clicking OK. Your new connection should be working now.
Warnings
The connection speed will not be as fast as it was previously, since you are splitting the connection.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:58:44",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Make sure the relevant machines and crossover cable are working.\\nTo see if the cable is working, plug it into both machines. If the port lights up, then you know that it works. If it does not light up, the cord is not in working order.\\n1-2. Get started.\\nOn both machines, go to the start menu, open the control panel and go to \\\"Network and Internet\\\". The Local Area Connection (LAN) should show up with no internet access in the window.\\n1-3. Create the bridge on the host machine.\\nGo to \\\"Change adapter settings\\\" on the left pane on the host machine. Two or more connections should show up. Highlight both Local Area Connection and Wireless Network Connection. Right click one of the icons you highlighted and an options menu should come up with only \\\"Bridge Connection\\\". Click it and it should take a second to set up the connection.\\nBridge already working? Some machines cards will automatically assign the needed network information for you. If it does, an icon on the client machine's task bar will show up with a monitor and a fork like plug showing beside it. If the icon has a caution sign, it means that the information needs to be assigned manually.\\n1-4. Do error checking.\\nA new icon should show up in the window called \\\"Network Bridge\\\" and it should display the name of the wireless network you are connected to below \\\"Network Bridge\\\". If not, repeat step 3 to remove the bridge and restart the process.\\n1-5. Access the command line.\\nStill on the host machine, open the start menu and in the search bar type \\\"CMD\\\". Open Notepad and be prepared to write down your network information.\\n1-6. Get the machine's network information.\\nIn the CMD window, type \\\"ipconfig /all\\\". A large list of information should show up. Scroll to the top and look for \\\"Ethernet adapter Network Bridge:\\\", copy the IPv4 Address, Subnet Mask, Default Gateway, and the DNS Servers.\\n1-7. Perform a client machine setup.\\nOn the client machine, click on \\\"Local Area Connection\\\". A window should pop up called \\\"Local Area Connection Status\\\"; select Properties, and in that window double click \\\"Internet Protocol Version 4 (TCP/IPv4)\\\".\\n1-8. Enter the IP information.\\nTo enter the network information, select \\\"Use the following IP Address\\\". Now the three bars should be lit up. In the IP address row, enter the IPv4 address from the host machine, and for the last section of numbers increase it by 1.\\nExample: 192.168.1.179 becomes 192.168.1.180. The Subnet Mask is the same as what was copied as with the Default Gateway.\\n1-9. Check the DNS servers.\\nThe DNS servers will also be changed to what was copied down from the host machine's network information. For the first row, enter the information as it was from the Host, and in the second row put in the same number but increase the last number by 1.\\nExample: 192.168.1.1 and 192.168.1.2.\\n1-10. Finalize the connection.\\nClick the box about Validating Settings upon exit and click OK. It will take a second to validate but the connection should start working a few seconds after clicking OK. Your new connection should be working now.\\nWarnings\\nThe connection speed will not be as fast as it was previously, since you are splitting the connection.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Wireless has taken a huge leap in usage thanks to a huge improvement in its usability over the years. That's good for many portable devices such as laptops, smart phones, etc. But for people using desktops, a wireless adapter may not be included. Or, you may want to have a more stable wireless connection than the one you currently have. \\n\\nBridging an internet connection refers to making connections between different ports that will be used by your computer, such as ethernet and wireless. Shown in this article are simple steps that you can use to create your own bridged connection.\\n\\nNote: This tutorial applies to the MS Windows environment. These steps should only be used in context with a Windows 7 machine, as they are not guaranteed to work on previous versions, or on machines running another OS such as iOS, or Linux.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Make sure the relevant machines and crossover cable are working.\", \"描述\": \"To see if the cable is working, plug it into both machines. If the port lights up, then you know that it works. If it does not light up, the cord is not in working order.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Get started.\", \"描述\": \"On both machines, go to the start menu, open the control panel and go to \\\"Network and Internet\\\". The Local Area Connection (LAN) should show up with no internet access in the window.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Create the bridge on the host machine.\", \"描述\": \"Go to \\\"Change adapter settings\\\" on the left pane on the host machine. Two or more connections should show up. Highlight both Local Area Connection and Wireless Network Connection. Right click one of the icons you highlighted and an options menu should come up with only \\\"Bridge Connection\\\". Click it and it should take a second to set up the connection.\\nBridge already working? Some machines cards will automatically assign the needed network information for you. If it does, an icon on the client machine's task bar will show up with a monitor and a fork like plug showing beside it. If the icon has a caution sign, it means that the information needs to be assigned manually.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Do error checking.\", \"描述\": \"A new icon should show up in the window called \\\"Network Bridge\\\" and it should display the name of the wireless network you are connected to below \\\"Network Bridge\\\". If not, repeat step 3 to remove the bridge and restart the process.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Access the command line.\", \"描述\": \"Still on the host machine, open the start menu and in the search bar type \\\"CMD\\\". Open Notepad and be prepared to write down your network information.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Get the machine's network information.\", \"描述\": \"In the CMD window, type \\\"ipconfig /all\\\". A large list of information should show up. Scroll to the top and look for \\\"Ethernet adapter Network Bridge:\\\", copy the IPv4 Address, Subnet Mask, Default Gateway, and the DNS Servers.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Perform a client machine setup.\", \"描述\": \"On the client machine, click on \\\"Local Area Connection\\\". A window should pop up called \\\"Local Area Connection Status\\\"; select Properties, and in that window double click \\\"Internet Protocol Version 4 (TCP/IPv4)\\\".\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Enter the IP information.\", \"描述\": \"To enter the network information, select \\\"Use the following IP Address\\\". Now the three bars should be lit up. In the IP address row, enter the IPv4 address from the host machine, and for the last section of numbers increase it by 1.\\nExample: 192.168.1.179 becomes 192.168.1.180. The Subnet Mask is the same as what was copied as with the Default Gateway.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Check the DNS servers.\", \"描述\": \"The DNS servers will also be changed to what was copied down from the host machine's network information. For the first row, enter the information as it was from the Host, and in the second row put in the same number but increase the last number by 1.\\nExample: 192.168.1.1 and 192.168.1.2.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Finalize the connection.\", \"描述\": \"Click the box about Validating Settings upon exit and click OK. It will take a second to validate but the connection should start working a few seconds after clicking OK. Your new connection should be working now.\"}], \"注意事项\": [\"The connection speed will not be as fast as it was previously, since you are splitting the connection.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
6,984 |
How to Brighten Faded Black Clothing
|
1. Restoring With Dye
1-1. Determine if your fabric will receive dye.
Fabric dye works best on natural fabrics such as cotton, linen and silk. Synthetics such as rayon and nylon are also good candidates. There are a couple of fabrics that won’t accept dye well – 100% polyester and spandex. Avoid attempting to dye those.
It’s recommended that you don’t attempt to dye the fabric of any garment labelled “dry clean only”.
The different fabrics absorb dye differently from one another, with results that vary in appearance. If you are concerned about a particular garment, test a swatch first.
1-2. Prepare your workspace.
Cover your entire workspace with plastic or newspaper before you begin. Make sure to have sponges and paper towels within reach in case of spillage. Use plastic buckets, stainless steel buckets or a stainless steel sink to create your dye bath.
Don’t use bath tubs made of porcelain or fiberglass for any part of the dyeing process because they will stain.
You will need to be wearing rubber gloves during the entire dyeing and rinsing process.
1-3. Fill your bucket or stainless steel sink with very hot water.
The hotter the water, the deeper the color result. 140°F/60°C is the maximum temperature you can use and will result in the deepest black color. Make sure you use enough hot water to completely submerge your garment.
If you want the deepest black and your tap water doesn’t get hot enough, use a stove, tea kettle or microwave to heat the water.
1-4. Pre-dissolve your powder dye in a separate container in very hot water.
Be sure to dissolve it thoroughly and use a chopstick or any other handy tool you don’t mind staining to stir the mixture until well mixed. If you’re using liquid dye, all you need to do is shake it well before adding it to the bucket.
Check the dye packaging to make sure you are using enough dye for the amount of clothing you’re dying. The amount needed varies from product to product, so consult the packaging or insert for exact measurements.
1-5. Pour the mixture into your dye bath (the bucket/sink).
Make sure that the mixture blends well into the hot water. There needs to be enough water in the bucket so that your garment can move around freely and be stirred while in the dye bath. This is so that your garment will get evenly dyed.
Add one tablespoon of laundry detergent to the dye bath. This will help promote dye absorption. Make sure that you stir the laundry detergent into the dye bath until it is well dissolved.
When dyeing cotton, rayon, ramie, or linen, add 1 cup of table salt to the dye bath. This will intensify the color.
When dyeing nylon, silk and wool, add 1 cup of white vinegar to the dye bath to intensify the color.
1-6. Submerge your garment in the dye bath.
The longer your garment is left in the dye bath, the darker the result will be. Garments can be left in the bath for up to 1 hour. You will need to constantly agitate and stir the garment while it’s submerged in the bath.
Try to keep the temperature of the water as consistently hot as possible. Have a stove top, microwave or tea kettle nearby to heat water up to use to refresh the dye bath.
Another option would be to use a large stainless steel pot for the dye bath and go through the process with the pot being heated on the stove to keep a consistent temperature.
If you soak your clothing in plain hot water for a few minutes before putting them in the dye bath, it will smooth them out so that they can accept dye even more easily.
1-7. Remove the clothing from the dye bath and rinse it in warm water first.
Warm water removes the dye on the surface of the garment more efficiently. After the warm rinse, then rinse in cold water. Keep rinsing until the water runs clear.
When you remove the items from the dye bath, they will be wet and appear darker than the final result will be.
Turn your items inside out and place them in the washing machine. Wash them alone in warm water with a mild detergent. Use the gentle cycle.
1-8. Hang or machine dry the clothing.
You can dry your items either way, but hang drying clothing preserves their dark colors, so it’s probably a better idea to get in that habit. Once dry, your clothing is ready to wear.
For the first 3 times you wash your newly dyed clothing after wearing, wash the items alone in cold water using the gentle cycle and mild, non-bleach detergent.
After that you can wash the dyed items with other items of the same color that haven’t been dyed, but make sure it’s always in cold water and using a mild detergent.
2. Restoring With Coffee
2-1. Put your garments in the washing machine.
If you are darkening multiple items, make sure they are all similar in color. Start your normal wash cycle using cold water.
This method is most effective when used on cotton fabrics, like faded black t-shirts. The effects aren't as ideal on other types of fabrics.
If you want to restore clothing to a very rich black color, coffee is less effective than black fabric dye. Coffee will have more natural-looking results.
2-2. Brew up a pot of very strong black coffee.
The stronger the coffee, the darker the final outcome will be, so keep that in mind when brewing. You will need 2 cups of coffee for this so use a full sized coffee maker, not a single serve or smaller coffee maker.
You can also use 2 cups of black tea instead of the coffee for similar results, if that's your preference.
It doesn't matter how you get the two cups of coffee, as long as they are fresh and dark. If you're an instant coffee drinker, it's perfectly fine to make your coffee with that. Being brewed by a coffee maker isn't a requirement.
2-3. Add 2 cups of the freshly brewed coffee to the washing machine when the rinse cycle begins.
Close the lid of your washing machine and let the machine and coffee do their work. Allow the rest of the cycle to finish up just as it normally would.
If you've used commercial fabric dyes on your clothing before, you'll notice that this method smells much better during the process and after.
The coffee method is also non-toxic, and you don't have to worry about coffee staining the basin of your washing machine.
2-4. Hang your clothing to dry.
Machine drying dark garments can lead to fading, so get in the habit of always hanging up your black clothes after washing them to preserve their color. Once dry, the garment is ready to wear.
3. Preventing Color Loss
3-1. Wash dark clothing only when necessary.
Each wash cycle contributes to additional fading, so the less you wash them, the better. This is especially true of denim, which fades the most easily.
To get away with washing your dark clothes infrequently, take them off and let them air out after wearing them instead of washing. Put the item on a hanger and hang it somewhere by itself for a day before putting it back in the closet.
After wearing the item and air drying 2 or 3 times, go ahead and wash it.
3-2. Sort your clothes by color and weight before washing them.
Always wash your dark colors together, otherwise the colors may bleed and stain any lighter colored items being washed. Also sort your clothing by fabric type and weight.
If you wash delicate items with garments made of heavier fabric, the delicates can get damaged and the heavier fabrics probably won’t get as clean as they should.
3-3. Hand wash your delicate items and fragile fabrics.
The agitation caused by your washing machine during a cycle is far too harsh for your delicates. Hand wash these items in cold water to preserve their color and to prevent the items from being damaged.
If you really want to avoid hand washing your laundry, the next best thing is to get a small mesh bag for your delicates. Put them in the mesh bag prior to putting them in the washing machine. This will cut down on damage to your delicates.
If you have any garments that you are unsure how to launder, dry clean them.
3-4. Turn your black clothes inside out before washing them.
This protects your black clothing by guarding it against the agitation caused by your washing machine. The wash cycle distresses the fibers of black clothing, which causes them to break down and then fade.
3-5. Wash your clothes in cold water using the gentle cycle.
Warm and hot water can lead to fading and using any other cycle besides gentle when washing dark colors can also lead to fading. These cycles are much rougher on your clothing and the gentle cycle will protect and preserve garments.
If your washing machine also has a soil setting, always use the light-soil setting (unless your clothes are really dirty). The light-soil setting is far gentler on dark color than the other settings.
3-6. Use a detergent made specifically for black or brightly colored clothing.
Never use regular laundry detergent with bleach or bleach alternatives. Several companies make detergents that are specifically for use with dark colored clothing, so use that if you can find it.
Use the minimum amount of detergent necessary to get your garments clean. Excess detergent can lead to fading.
3-7. Hang your clothes to dry.
Don’t machine dry your black clothes any more, since the dryer can contribute to additional fading. Pull the items from the machine, shake them out and immediately hang the items individually on a rack so that they can dry.
Once completely dry, they are ready to be stored in your closet with the rest of your wardrobe.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:58:44",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Restoring With Dye\\n1-1. Determine if your fabric will receive dye.\\nFabric dye works best on natural fabrics such as cotton, linen and silk. Synthetics such as rayon and nylon are also good candidates. There are a couple of fabrics that won’t accept dye well – 100% polyester and spandex. Avoid attempting to dye those.\\nIt’s recommended that you don’t attempt to dye the fabric of any garment labelled “dry clean only”.\\nThe different fabrics absorb dye differently from one another, with results that vary in appearance. If you are concerned about a particular garment, test a swatch first.\\n1-2. Prepare your workspace.\\nCover your entire workspace with plastic or newspaper before you begin. Make sure to have sponges and paper towels within reach in case of spillage. Use plastic buckets, stainless steel buckets or a stainless steel sink to create your dye bath.\\nDon’t use bath tubs made of porcelain or fiberglass for any part of the dyeing process because they will stain.\\nYou will need to be wearing rubber gloves during the entire dyeing and rinsing process.\\n1-3. Fill your bucket or stainless steel sink with very hot water.\\nThe hotter the water, the deeper the color result. 140°F/60°C is the maximum temperature you can use and will result in the deepest black color. Make sure you use enough hot water to completely submerge your garment.\\nIf you want the deepest black and your tap water doesn’t get hot enough, use a stove, tea kettle or microwave to heat the water.\\n1-4. Pre-dissolve your powder dye in a separate container in very hot water.\\nBe sure to dissolve it thoroughly and use a chopstick or any other handy tool you don’t mind staining to stir the mixture until well mixed. If you’re using liquid dye, all you need to do is shake it well before adding it to the bucket.\\nCheck the dye packaging to make sure you are using enough dye for the amount of clothing you’re dying. The amount needed varies from product to product, so consult the packaging or insert for exact measurements.\\n1-5. Pour the mixture into your dye bath (the bucket/sink).\\nMake sure that the mixture blends well into the hot water. There needs to be enough water in the bucket so that your garment can move around freely and be stirred while in the dye bath. This is so that your garment will get evenly dyed.\\nAdd one tablespoon of laundry detergent to the dye bath. This will help promote dye absorption. Make sure that you stir the laundry detergent into the dye bath until it is well dissolved.\\nWhen dyeing cotton, rayon, ramie, or linen, add 1 cup of table salt to the dye bath. This will intensify the color.\\nWhen dyeing nylon, silk and wool, add 1 cup of white vinegar to the dye bath to intensify the color.\\n1-6. Submerge your garment in the dye bath.\\nThe longer your garment is left in the dye bath, the darker the result will be. Garments can be left in the bath for up to 1 hour. You will need to constantly agitate and stir the garment while it’s submerged in the bath.\\nTry to keep the temperature of the water as consistently hot as possible. Have a stove top, microwave or tea kettle nearby to heat water up to use to refresh the dye bath.\\nAnother option would be to use a large stainless steel pot for the dye bath and go through the process with the pot being heated on the stove to keep a consistent temperature.\\nIf you soak your clothing in plain hot water for a few minutes before putting them in the dye bath, it will smooth them out so that they can accept dye even more easily.\\n1-7. Remove the clothing from the dye bath and rinse it in warm water first.\\nWarm water removes the dye on the surface of the garment more efficiently. After the warm rinse, then rinse in cold water. Keep rinsing until the water runs clear.\\nWhen you remove the items from the dye bath, they will be wet and appear darker than the final result will be.\\nTurn your items inside out and place them in the washing machine. Wash them alone in warm water with a mild detergent. Use the gentle cycle.\\n1-8. Hang or machine dry the clothing.\\nYou can dry your items either way, but hang drying clothing preserves their dark colors, so it’s probably a better idea to get in that habit. Once dry, your clothing is ready to wear.\\nFor the first 3 times you wash your newly dyed clothing after wearing, wash the items alone in cold water using the gentle cycle and mild, non-bleach detergent.\\nAfter that you can wash the dyed items with other items of the same color that haven’t been dyed, but make sure it’s always in cold water and using a mild detergent.\\n2. Restoring With Coffee\\n2-1. Put your garments in the washing machine.\\nIf you are darkening multiple items, make sure they are all similar in color. Start your normal wash cycle using cold water.\\nThis method is most effective when used on cotton fabrics, like faded black t-shirts. The effects aren't as ideal on other types of fabrics.\\nIf you want to restore clothing to a very rich black color, coffee is less effective than black fabric dye. Coffee will have more natural-looking results.\\n2-2. Brew up a pot of very strong black coffee.\\nThe stronger the coffee, the darker the final outcome will be, so keep that in mind when brewing. You will need 2 cups of coffee for this so use a full sized coffee maker, not a single serve or smaller coffee maker.\\nYou can also use 2 cups of black tea instead of the coffee for similar results, if that's your preference.\\nIt doesn't matter how you get the two cups of coffee, as long as they are fresh and dark. If you're an instant coffee drinker, it's perfectly fine to make your coffee with that. Being brewed by a coffee maker isn't a requirement.\\n2-3. Add 2 cups of the freshly brewed coffee to the washing machine when the rinse cycle begins.\\nClose the lid of your washing machine and let the machine and coffee do their work. Allow the rest of the cycle to finish up just as it normally would.\\nIf you've used commercial fabric dyes on your clothing before, you'll notice that this method smells much better during the process and after.\\nThe coffee method is also non-toxic, and you don't have to worry about coffee staining the basin of your washing machine.\\n2-4. Hang your clothing to dry.\\nMachine drying dark garments can lead to fading, so get in the habit of always hanging up your black clothes after washing them to preserve their color. Once dry, the garment is ready to wear.\\n3. Preventing Color Loss\\n3-1. Wash dark clothing only when necessary.\\nEach wash cycle contributes to additional fading, so the less you wash them, the better. This is especially true of denim, which fades the most easily.\\nTo get away with washing your dark clothes infrequently, take them off and let them air out after wearing them instead of washing. Put the item on a hanger and hang it somewhere by itself for a day before putting it back in the closet.\\nAfter wearing the item and air drying 2 or 3 times, go ahead and wash it.\\n3-2. Sort your clothes by color and weight before washing them.\\nAlways wash your dark colors together, otherwise the colors may bleed and stain any lighter colored items being washed. Also sort your clothing by fabric type and weight.\\nIf you wash delicate items with garments made of heavier fabric, the delicates can get damaged and the heavier fabrics probably won’t get as clean as they should.\\n3-3. Hand wash your delicate items and fragile fabrics.\\nThe agitation caused by your washing machine during a cycle is far too harsh for your delicates. Hand wash these items in cold water to preserve their color and to prevent the items from being damaged.\\nIf you really want to avoid hand washing your laundry, the next best thing is to get a small mesh bag for your delicates. Put them in the mesh bag prior to putting them in the washing machine. This will cut down on damage to your delicates.\\nIf you have any garments that you are unsure how to launder, dry clean them.\\n3-4. Turn your black clothes inside out before washing them.\\nThis protects your black clothing by guarding it against the agitation caused by your washing machine. The wash cycle distresses the fibers of black clothing, which causes them to break down and then fade.\\n3-5. Wash your clothes in cold water using the gentle cycle.\\nWarm and hot water can lead to fading and using any other cycle besides gentle when washing dark colors can also lead to fading. These cycles are much rougher on your clothing and the gentle cycle will protect and preserve garments.\\nIf your washing machine also has a soil setting, always use the light-soil setting (unless your clothes are really dirty). The light-soil setting is far gentler on dark color than the other settings.\\n3-6. Use a detergent made specifically for black or brightly colored clothing.\\nNever use regular laundry detergent with bleach or bleach alternatives. Several companies make detergents that are specifically for use with dark colored clothing, so use that if you can find it.\\nUse the minimum amount of detergent necessary to get your garments clean. Excess detergent can lead to fading.\\n3-7. Hang your clothes to dry.\\nDon’t machine dry your black clothes any more, since the dryer can contribute to additional fading. Pull the items from the machine, shake them out and immediately hang the items individually on a rack so that they can dry.\\nOnce completely dry, they are ready to be stored in your closet with the rest of your wardrobe.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Almost all black clothing eventually begins to fade after repeated washing and drying, leaving you with a closet full of dull grey shirts and pants. Instead of going out and buying new clothing to replace your faded items, try out one of the techniques for restoring the color of your garments at home.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Restoring With Dye\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Determine if your fabric will receive dye.\", \"描述\": \"Fabric dye works best on natural fabrics such as cotton, linen and silk. Synthetics such as rayon and nylon are also good candidates. There are a couple of fabrics that won’t accept dye well – 100% polyester and spandex. Avoid attempting to dye those.\\nIt’s recommended that you don’t attempt to dye the fabric of any garment labelled “dry clean only”.\\nThe different fabrics absorb dye differently from one another, with results that vary in appearance. If you are concerned about a particular garment, test a swatch first.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Prepare your workspace.\", \"描述\": \"Cover your entire workspace with plastic or newspaper before you begin. Make sure to have sponges and paper towels within reach in case of spillage. Use plastic buckets, stainless steel buckets or a stainless steel sink to create your dye bath.\\nDon’t use bath tubs made of porcelain or fiberglass for any part of the dyeing process because they will stain.\\nYou will need to be wearing rubber gloves during the entire dyeing and rinsing process.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Fill your bucket or stainless steel sink with very hot water.\", \"描述\": \"The hotter the water, the deeper the color result. 140°F/60°C is the maximum temperature you can use and will result in the deepest black color. Make sure you use enough hot water to completely submerge your garment.\\nIf you want the deepest black and your tap water doesn’t get hot enough, use a stove, tea kettle or microwave to heat the water.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Pre-dissolve your powder dye in a separate container in very hot water.\", \"描述\": \"Be sure to dissolve it thoroughly and use a chopstick or any other handy tool you don’t mind staining to stir the mixture until well mixed. If you’re using liquid dye, all you need to do is shake it well before adding it to the bucket.\\nCheck the dye packaging to make sure you are using enough dye for the amount of clothing you’re dying. The amount needed varies from product to product, so consult the packaging or insert for exact measurements.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Pour the mixture into your dye bath (the bucket/sink).\", \"描述\": \"Make sure that the mixture blends well into the hot water. There needs to be enough water in the bucket so that your garment can move around freely and be stirred while in the dye bath. This is so that your garment will get evenly dyed.\\nAdd one tablespoon of laundry detergent to the dye bath. This will help promote dye absorption. Make sure that you stir the laundry detergent into the dye bath until it is well dissolved.\\nWhen dyeing cotton, rayon, ramie, or linen, add 1 cup of table salt to the dye bath. This will intensify the color.\\nWhen dyeing nylon, silk and wool, add 1 cup of white vinegar to the dye bath to intensify the color.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Submerge your garment in the dye bath.\", \"描述\": \"The longer your garment is left in the dye bath, the darker the result will be. Garments can be left in the bath for up to 1 hour. You will need to constantly agitate and stir the garment while it’s submerged in the bath.\\nTry to keep the temperature of the water as consistently hot as possible. Have a stove top, microwave or tea kettle nearby to heat water up to use to refresh the dye bath.\\nAnother option would be to use a large stainless steel pot for the dye bath and go through the process with the pot being heated on the stove to keep a consistent temperature.\\nIf you soak your clothing in plain hot water for a few minutes before putting them in the dye bath, it will smooth them out so that they can accept dye even more easily.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Remove the clothing from the dye bath and rinse it in warm water first.\", \"描述\": \"Warm water removes the dye on the surface of the garment more efficiently. After the warm rinse, then rinse in cold water. Keep rinsing until the water runs clear.\\nWhen you remove the items from the dye bath, they will be wet and appear darker than the final result will be.\\nTurn your items inside out and place them in the washing machine. Wash them alone in warm water with a mild detergent. Use the gentle cycle.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Hang or machine dry the clothing.\", \"描述\": \"You can dry your items either way, but hang drying clothing preserves their dark colors, so it’s probably a better idea to get in that habit. Once dry, your clothing is ready to wear.\\nFor the first 3 times you wash your newly dyed clothing after wearing, wash the items alone in cold water using the gentle cycle and mild, non-bleach detergent.\\nAfter that you can wash the dyed items with other items of the same color that haven’t been dyed, but make sure it’s always in cold water and using a mild detergent.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Restoring With Coffee\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Put your garments in the washing machine.\", \"描述\": \"If you are darkening multiple items, make sure they are all similar in color. Start your normal wash cycle using cold water.\\nThis method is most effective when used on cotton fabrics, like faded black t-shirts. The effects aren't as ideal on other types of fabrics.\\nIf you want to restore clothing to a very rich black color, coffee is less effective than black fabric dye. Coffee will have more natural-looking results.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Brew up a pot of very strong black coffee.\", \"描述\": \"The stronger the coffee, the darker the final outcome will be, so keep that in mind when brewing. You will need 2 cups of coffee for this so use a full sized coffee maker, not a single serve or smaller coffee maker.\\nYou can also use 2 cups of black tea instead of the coffee for similar results, if that's your preference.\\nIt doesn't matter how you get the two cups of coffee, as long as they are fresh and dark. If you're an instant coffee drinker, it's perfectly fine to make your coffee with that. Being brewed by a coffee maker isn't a requirement.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Add 2 cups of the freshly brewed coffee to the washing machine when the rinse cycle begins.\", \"描述\": \"Close the lid of your washing machine and let the machine and coffee do their work. Allow the rest of the cycle to finish up just as it normally would.\\nIf you've used commercial fabric dyes on your clothing before, you'll notice that this method smells much better during the process and after.\\nThe coffee method is also non-toxic, and you don't have to worry about coffee staining the basin of your washing machine.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Hang your clothing to dry.\", \"描述\": \"Machine drying dark garments can lead to fading, so get in the habit of always hanging up your black clothes after washing them to preserve their color. Once dry, the garment is ready to wear.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Preventing Color Loss\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Wash dark clothing only when necessary.\", \"描述\": \"Each wash cycle contributes to additional fading, so the less you wash them, the better. This is especially true of denim, which fades the most easily.\\nTo get away with washing your dark clothes infrequently, take them off and let them air out after wearing them instead of washing. Put the item on a hanger and hang it somewhere by itself for a day before putting it back in the closet.\\nAfter wearing the item and air drying 2 or 3 times, go ahead and wash it.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Sort your clothes by color and weight before washing them.\", \"描述\": \"Always wash your dark colors together, otherwise the colors may bleed and stain any lighter colored items being washed. Also sort your clothing by fabric type and weight.\\nIf you wash delicate items with garments made of heavier fabric, the delicates can get damaged and the heavier fabrics probably won’t get as clean as they should.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Hand wash your delicate items and fragile fabrics.\", \"描述\": \"The agitation caused by your washing machine during a cycle is far too harsh for your delicates. Hand wash these items in cold water to preserve their color and to prevent the items from being damaged.\\nIf you really want to avoid hand washing your laundry, the next best thing is to get a small mesh bag for your delicates. Put them in the mesh bag prior to putting them in the washing machine. This will cut down on damage to your delicates.\\nIf you have any garments that you are unsure how to launder, dry clean them.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Turn your black clothes inside out before washing them.\", \"描述\": \"This protects your black clothing by guarding it against the agitation caused by your washing machine. The wash cycle distresses the fibers of black clothing, which causes them to break down and then fade.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Wash your clothes in cold water using the gentle cycle.\", \"描述\": \"Warm and hot water can lead to fading and using any other cycle besides gentle when washing dark colors can also lead to fading. These cycles are much rougher on your clothing and the gentle cycle will protect and preserve garments.\\nIf your washing machine also has a soil setting, always use the light-soil setting (unless your clothes are really dirty). The light-soil setting is far gentler on dark color than the other settings.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Use a detergent made specifically for black or brightly colored clothing.\", \"描述\": \"Never use regular laundry detergent with bleach or bleach alternatives. Several companies make detergents that are specifically for use with dark colored clothing, so use that if you can find it.\\nUse the minimum amount of detergent necessary to get your garments clean. Excess detergent can lead to fading.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Hang your clothes to dry.\", \"描述\": \"Don’t machine dry your black clothes any more, since the dryer can contribute to additional fading. Pull the items from the machine, shake them out and immediately hang the items individually on a rack so that they can dry.\\nOnce completely dry, they are ready to be stored in your closet with the rest of your wardrobe.\"}]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
6,985 |
How to Brighten Faded Carpet and Rugs
|
1. Spot Cleaning Your Carpet or Rug
1-1. Vacuum your carpet or rug.
Run a vacuum cleaner over your carpet several times, making sure you don't leave anything behind. Work slowly rather than sweeping the floor in fast strokes. For smaller rugs, you can use a rug beater or even a wooden spoon to knock the dust and debris out.
1-2. Examine your carpet or rug for dull patches.
Sometimes color fades unevenly and you may be able to bring your carpet or rug back to life by identifying and cleaning grimy patches.
1-3. Mix ¼ cup each of salt, white vinegar, and Borax in a bowl to form a paste.
The paste should be the consistency of moderately thick oatmeal.
1-4. Spread the stain removal mixture over any stains you find.
Use a spoon or even a butter knife to spread the mixture. Be sure to cover the entire stain.
1-5. Allow the mixture to sit for 2 to 3 hours.
This ensures the chemicals have time to break apart the stains. Let the mixture dry naturally.
1-6. Remove the mixture using a cloth and warm water.
Use a gentle scrubbing motion in all directions until you've completely removed the mixture.
1-7. Dry your carpet or rug thoroughly.
Drying time for carpets generally take 5 to 24 hours, depending on how thick the carpet is and what method you use to dry it. To speed up the process, use a fan to dry larger rooms or turn on the heat in your house. Allowing a carpet to dry naturally takes longer. Once your carpet dries, you'll see any stains you've overlooked.
2. Cleaning Your Carpet or Rug with Salt
2-1. Vacuum carpets and rugs to remove dust and debris.
Dust and other debris are one of the leading culprits when it comes to making your carpets and rugs look dull. You'll be surprised by the difference you can see in vibrancy simply by using a good vacuum cleaner. Take your time when you vacuum and vary the direction to ensure you get everything up before you continue cleaning.
2-2. Mix 1 cup of white vinegar and ½ cup of salt with 3 cups of hot water.
Dampen a sponge and apply the solution to your carpet or rug. It isn't necessary to soak the sponge.
2-3. Lay your rug on a flat, solid surface.
Carpets are already secured, but rugs can be harder to keep still during the cleaning process. Placing your small and mid-size rugs on a flat, solid surface lets you keep a better grip on the rug as you scrub it.
2-4. Wipe the vinegar, salt, and hot water solution over your rug with a dampened sponge.
Use a steam cleaner to apply the solution to larger areas.Try to avoid soaking your carpet down to the backing by applying it to the fibers only.
2-5. Dry your carpet or rug with a fan or allow it to dry naturally.
The time it takes to dry a carpet or rug depends on the method you choose and the thickness of the pile. It could be anywhere from half an hour to two hours. If you have thicker carpets or rugs, allow more time for drying, and always check to see if the carpet is dry all the way to the base of the fibers.
2-6. Look for any spots you missed.
Your revived carpet will look great. Any spots you missed will be easy to see, and if need be, you can revisit those areas and repeat the process specifically for those areas you overlooked.
2-7. Vacuum your carpet one more time.
This removes any dirt and debris left behind and helps pull the revived color out.
3. Dyeing Your Carpet or Rug
3-1. Decide on the type of dye you want to use.
There are pre-mixed liquid dyes and powdered dyes available. If you want to be very specific about the shade of color you use, use powdered dye. The powder mixes with water and lets you control the intensity of the color.
3-2. Choose your dye application method.
You can use a dye machine, spray wand, or airbrush to dye carpets and rugs. These can be rented at many hardware stores. A spray wand or airbrush system works well for small carpets, while a dye machine makes it easier and faster to effectively dye large carpet areas.
3-3. Remove the furniture from the room where you want to dye the carpet.
If you're dying a smaller rug, you can take the rug outside and avoid making a mess in your house.
3-4. Place painter's tape around the baseboards to avoid getting dye on them.
If you don't use tape, be sure to rub mineral oil on the baseboards to make it easier to remove any dye that may splash up during the dye process.
3-5. Vacuum your carpet or rug thoroughly.
This is important because any dirt or debris can cause the dye not to take hold or will cause it to appear uneven.
3-6. Mix dye according to package instructions.
Pre-mixed dye is ready to go, but powdered dye needs to be mixed with water. Use the mixing instructions on the package as a guide, but realize the advantage of powdered dye is your ability to use more or less, depending on the intensity of color you're looking for.
3-7. Apply dye to your carpet or rug.
Take your time and apply the dye slowly and evenly over the carpet or rug. Try to avoid going over any area more than once or you'll have some spots that are darker than others.
3-8. Allow your newly dyed carpet or rug to dry for 24 hours.
This will ensure your dye has had plenty of time to set.
3-9. Remove the painter's tape from baseboards.
Check for any stray dye that needs to be cleaned, then bring your furniture back into the room.
Tips
Regular vacuuming and cleaning extends the life of your carpets and rugs.[6]
X
Expert Source
Haim ShemeshCarpet & Rug Cleaning Specialist
Expert Interview. 12 May 2020.
Turn on lights and open windows to maximize lighting while you work.
Warnings
Not all carpet fibers will hold dye. Wool or nylon is the only type of fiber you can dye.
Wipe baseboards with mineral oil to make it easier to remove dye splatter.
Dark carpet can't be dyed a lighter shade.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:58:44",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Spot Cleaning Your Carpet or Rug\\n1-1. Vacuum your carpet or rug.\\nRun a vacuum cleaner over your carpet several times, making sure you don't leave anything behind. Work slowly rather than sweeping the floor in fast strokes. For smaller rugs, you can use a rug beater or even a wooden spoon to knock the dust and debris out.\\n1-2. Examine your carpet or rug for dull patches.\\nSometimes color fades unevenly and you may be able to bring your carpet or rug back to life by identifying and cleaning grimy patches.\\n1-3. Mix ¼ cup each of salt, white vinegar, and Borax in a bowl to form a paste.\\nThe paste should be the consistency of moderately thick oatmeal.\\n1-4. Spread the stain removal mixture over any stains you find.\\nUse a spoon or even a butter knife to spread the mixture. Be sure to cover the entire stain.\\n1-5. Allow the mixture to sit for 2 to 3 hours.\\nThis ensures the chemicals have time to break apart the stains. Let the mixture dry naturally.\\n1-6. Remove the mixture using a cloth and warm water.\\nUse a gentle scrubbing motion in all directions until you've completely removed the mixture.\\n1-7. Dry your carpet or rug thoroughly.\\nDrying time for carpets generally take 5 to 24 hours, depending on how thick the carpet is and what method you use to dry it. To speed up the process, use a fan to dry larger rooms or turn on the heat in your house. Allowing a carpet to dry naturally takes longer. Once your carpet dries, you'll see any stains you've overlooked.\\n2. Cleaning Your Carpet or Rug with Salt\\n2-1. Vacuum carpets and rugs to remove dust and debris.\\nDust and other debris are one of the leading culprits when it comes to making your carpets and rugs look dull. You'll be surprised by the difference you can see in vibrancy simply by using a good vacuum cleaner. Take your time when you vacuum and vary the direction to ensure you get everything up before you continue cleaning.\\n2-2. Mix 1 cup of white vinegar and ½ cup of salt with 3 cups of hot water.\\nDampen a sponge and apply the solution to your carpet or rug. It isn't necessary to soak the sponge.\\n2-3. Lay your rug on a flat, solid surface.\\nCarpets are already secured, but rugs can be harder to keep still during the cleaning process. Placing your small and mid-size rugs on a flat, solid surface lets you keep a better grip on the rug as you scrub it.\\n2-4. Wipe the vinegar, salt, and hot water solution over your rug with a dampened sponge.\\nUse a steam cleaner to apply the solution to larger areas.Try to avoid soaking your carpet down to the backing by applying it to the fibers only.\\n2-5. Dry your carpet or rug with a fan or allow it to dry naturally.\\nThe time it takes to dry a carpet or rug depends on the method you choose and the thickness of the pile. It could be anywhere from half an hour to two hours. If you have thicker carpets or rugs, allow more time for drying, and always check to see if the carpet is dry all the way to the base of the fibers.\\n2-6. Look for any spots you missed.\\nYour revived carpet will look great. Any spots you missed will be easy to see, and if need be, you can revisit those areas and repeat the process specifically for those areas you overlooked.\\n2-7. Vacuum your carpet one more time.\\nThis removes any dirt and debris left behind and helps pull the revived color out.\\n3. Dyeing Your Carpet or Rug\\n3-1. Decide on the type of dye you want to use.\\nThere are pre-mixed liquid dyes and powdered dyes available. If you want to be very specific about the shade of color you use, use powdered dye. The powder mixes with water and lets you control the intensity of the color.\\n3-2. Choose your dye application method.\\nYou can use a dye machine, spray wand, or airbrush to dye carpets and rugs. These can be rented at many hardware stores. A spray wand or airbrush system works well for small carpets, while a dye machine makes it easier and faster to effectively dye large carpet areas.\\n3-3. Remove the furniture from the room where you want to dye the carpet.\\nIf you're dying a smaller rug, you can take the rug outside and avoid making a mess in your house.\\n3-4. Place painter's tape around the baseboards to avoid getting dye on them.\\nIf you don't use tape, be sure to rub mineral oil on the baseboards to make it easier to remove any dye that may splash up during the dye process.\\n3-5. Vacuum your carpet or rug thoroughly.\\nThis is important because any dirt or debris can cause the dye not to take hold or will cause it to appear uneven.\\n3-6. Mix dye according to package instructions.\\nPre-mixed dye is ready to go, but powdered dye needs to be mixed with water. Use the mixing instructions on the package as a guide, but realize the advantage of powdered dye is your ability to use more or less, depending on the intensity of color you're looking for.\\n3-7. Apply dye to your carpet or rug.\\nTake your time and apply the dye slowly and evenly over the carpet or rug. Try to avoid going over any area more than once or you'll have some spots that are darker than others.\\n3-8. Allow your newly dyed carpet or rug to dry for 24 hours.\\nThis will ensure your dye has had plenty of time to set.\\n3-9. Remove the painter's tape from baseboards.\\nCheck for any stray dye that needs to be cleaned, then bring your furniture back into the room.\\nTips\\nRegular vacuuming and cleaning extends the life of your carpets and rugs.[6]\\nX\\nExpert Source\\n\\nHaim ShemeshCarpet & Rug Cleaning Specialist\\nExpert Interview. 12 May 2020.\\nTurn on lights and open windows to maximize lighting while you work.\\nWarnings\\nNot all carpet fibers will hold dye. Wool or nylon is the only type of fiber you can dye.\\nWipe baseboards with mineral oil to make it easier to remove dye splatter.\\nDark carpet can't be dyed a lighter shade.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Dirt, wear and tear, and exposure to light can cause carpets and rugs to lose color and begin to look dull and dirty. You could buy new ones, but purchasing carpets and rugs can be expensive. The good news is, you don't need to get rid of your favorite floor decor. There are several ways to bring your worn out carpets and rugs back to life without spending a fortune.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Spot Cleaning Your Carpet or Rug\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Vacuum your carpet or rug.\", \"描述\": \"Run a vacuum cleaner over your carpet several times, making sure you don't leave anything behind. Work slowly rather than sweeping the floor in fast strokes. For smaller rugs, you can use a rug beater or even a wooden spoon to knock the dust and debris out.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Examine your carpet or rug for dull patches.\", \"描述\": \"Sometimes color fades unevenly and you may be able to bring your carpet or rug back to life by identifying and cleaning grimy patches.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Mix ¼ cup each of salt, white vinegar, and Borax in a bowl to form a paste.\", \"描述\": \"The paste should be the consistency of moderately thick oatmeal.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Spread the stain removal mixture over any stains you find.\", \"描述\": \"Use a spoon or even a butter knife to spread the mixture. Be sure to cover the entire stain.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Allow the mixture to sit for 2 to 3 hours.\", \"描述\": \"This ensures the chemicals have time to break apart the stains. Let the mixture dry naturally.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Remove the mixture using a cloth and warm water.\", \"描述\": \"Use a gentle scrubbing motion in all directions until you've completely removed the mixture.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Dry your carpet or rug thoroughly.\", \"描述\": \"Drying time for carpets generally take 5 to 24 hours, depending on how thick the carpet is and what method you use to dry it. To speed up the process, use a fan to dry larger rooms or turn on the heat in your house. Allowing a carpet to dry naturally takes longer. Once your carpet dries, you'll see any stains you've overlooked.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Cleaning Your Carpet or Rug with Salt\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Vacuum carpets and rugs to remove dust and debris.\", \"描述\": \"Dust and other debris are one of the leading culprits when it comes to making your carpets and rugs look dull. You'll be surprised by the difference you can see in vibrancy simply by using a good vacuum cleaner. Take your time when you vacuum and vary the direction to ensure you get everything up before you continue cleaning.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Mix 1 cup of white vinegar and ½ cup of salt with 3 cups of hot water.\", \"描述\": \"Dampen a sponge and apply the solution to your carpet or rug. It isn't necessary to soak the sponge.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Lay your rug on a flat, solid surface.\", \"描述\": \"Carpets are already secured, but rugs can be harder to keep still during the cleaning process. Placing your small and mid-size rugs on a flat, solid surface lets you keep a better grip on the rug as you scrub it.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Wipe the vinegar, salt, and hot water solution over your rug with a dampened sponge.\", \"描述\": \"Use a steam cleaner to apply the solution to larger areas.Try to avoid soaking your carpet down to the backing by applying it to the fibers only.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Dry your carpet or rug with a fan or allow it to dry naturally.\", \"描述\": \"The time it takes to dry a carpet or rug depends on the method you choose and the thickness of the pile. It could be anywhere from half an hour to two hours. If you have thicker carpets or rugs, allow more time for drying, and always check to see if the carpet is dry all the way to the base of the fibers.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Look for any spots you missed.\", \"描述\": \"Your revived carpet will look great. Any spots you missed will be easy to see, and if need be, you can revisit those areas and repeat the process specifically for those areas you overlooked.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Vacuum your carpet one more time.\", \"描述\": \"This removes any dirt and debris left behind and helps pull the revived color out.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Dyeing Your Carpet or Rug\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Decide on the type of dye you want to use.\", \"描述\": \"There are pre-mixed liquid dyes and powdered dyes available. If you want to be very specific about the shade of color you use, use powdered dye. The powder mixes with water and lets you control the intensity of the color.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Choose your dye application method.\", \"描述\": \"You can use a dye machine, spray wand, or airbrush to dye carpets and rugs. These can be rented at many hardware stores. A spray wand or airbrush system works well for small carpets, while a dye machine makes it easier and faster to effectively dye large carpet areas.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Remove the furniture from the room where you want to dye the carpet.\", \"描述\": \"If you're dying a smaller rug, you can take the rug outside and avoid making a mess in your house.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Place painter's tape around the baseboards to avoid getting dye on them.\", \"描述\": \"If you don't use tape, be sure to rub mineral oil on the baseboards to make it easier to remove any dye that may splash up during the dye process.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Vacuum your carpet or rug thoroughly.\", \"描述\": \"This is important because any dirt or debris can cause the dye not to take hold or will cause it to appear uneven.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Mix dye according to package instructions.\", \"描述\": \"Pre-mixed dye is ready to go, but powdered dye needs to be mixed with water. Use the mixing instructions on the package as a guide, but realize the advantage of powdered dye is your ability to use more or less, depending on the intensity of color you're looking for.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Apply dye to your carpet or rug.\", \"描述\": \"Take your time and apply the dye slowly and evenly over the carpet or rug. Try to avoid going over any area more than once or you'll have some spots that are darker than others.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Allow your newly dyed carpet or rug to dry for 24 hours.\", \"描述\": \"This will ensure your dye has had plenty of time to set.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Remove the painter's tape from baseboards.\", \"描述\": \"Check for any stray dye that needs to be cleaned, then bring your furniture back into the room.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Regular vacuuming and cleaning extends the life of your carpets and rugs.[6]\\nX\\nExpert Source\\n\\nHaim ShemeshCarpet & Rug Cleaning Specialist\\nExpert Interview. 12 May 2020.\\n\", \"Turn on lights and open windows to maximize lighting while you work.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Not all carpet fibers will hold dye. Wool or nylon is the only type of fiber you can dye.\\n\", \"Wipe baseboards with mineral oil to make it easier to remove dye splatter.\\n\", \"Dark carpet can't be dyed a lighter shade.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
6,986 |
How to Brighten Skin Naturally
|
1. Finding a Regular Skin Care Routine
1-1. Wash your face
Washing your face is the first and most basic step in any skin care routine. By washing your skin twice a day with a simple cleanser, you remove oil, pollutants, dirt, and makeup that can clog pores, cause acne, and make skin appear less than fresh.
Your facial cleanser should wash your skin without stripping away the healthy oils that give your face its natural glow. If you have oily or acne-prone skin, you should opt for foaming liquids. If you struggle with dry skin, select a cream or lotion cleansers. Oil-based face wash is great for sensitive skin and melting balms can help to sooth more mature skin.
1-2. Moisturize your skin twice a day to prevent dry, dull skin.
When your skin is dry, it can appear duller and darker. Use a hydrating moisturizer in the morning and before bed to restore your skin’s natural brightness and glow.
If you have shiny skin, look for an oil-free hydrator with ingredients like hyaluronic acid to provide weightless moisture and even out slickness into brightness.
1-3. Exfoliate your skin 1-2 times per week to remove dead cells.
Throughout your daily life, residues and dead cells can accumulate on the surface of your skin. This can lead to uneven texture that may cause your skin to appear dull. To get smoother and brighter skin, exfoliate your face once or twice a week using a brush, sponge, or chemical exfoliant such as alpha or beta hydroxy acid (found in many store-bought face washes).
If you use a scrub or chemical exfoliator, rub the product onto your skin gently using small, circular motions for about 30 seconds. Then rinse off using lukewarm, rather than hot, water. If you are using a brush or sponge, use short, light strokes.
You can make your own exfoliant using two parts sugar or salt mixed with one part oil of any kind. Since it dissolves more easily, sugar is less abrasive than salt, making it a better option for more sensitive skin.
2. Using Natural Face Masks and Treatments
2-1. Nourish your skin with a yogurt and honey mask.
Mix 2 tablespoons (30 mL) plain yogurt with 1 tablespoon (15 mL) honey together in a small bowl and apply it to your face in a thin layer. Let the mask dry for 10-15 minutes before rinsing the mixture off with warm water. Repeat a few times a week for the best results.
Both yogurt and honey are natural skin brighteners, as well as moisturizers, making them great natural ingredients for a glow-inducing face mask.
Feel free to use any type of yogurt for your face mask: whether the yogurt comes from the milk of goats, sheep, or cows, it will still be packed with complexion-brightening B-vitamins, as well as skin-strengthening vitamin D and collagen-boosting vitamin A.
Don’t want to make your own yogurt treatment? You can purchase yogurt-based face masks online or at your local beauty store.
2-2. Mash up a papaya for a lightening and exfoliating facial treatment.
Papaya contains papain enzymes, which are natural acne fighters, exfoliators, and skin lighteners. Take advantage of this natural brightener by mashing a papaya into a fine and smooth paste. Apply it to your face and let it sit for about 20 minutes before washing the mask off with warm water. Repeat daily for a few weeks until you start to see results.
If the mashed papaya is too thick or clumpy, try blending it with some olive oil or almond oil to improve the consistency.
2-3. Place cucumber slices under your eyes to brighten dark circles.
Many people struggle with dark circles under their eyes—especially after a poor night’s sleep. To naturally brighten this trouble area, place fresh cucumber slices directly onto the skin beneath your eyes. The cucumber will help bind collagen to ensure firm skin while also providing an anti inflammatory effect. Leave the slices on for 10-15 minutes and you should see results right away.
For an extra cooling and puffiness-fighting effect, place cucumber slices in a refrigerator for a few minutes before using on your skin.
2-4. Try a turmeric treatment to brighten dark spots.
Turmeric is a natural exfoliator that has been proven to reduce the appearance of hyperpigmentation, as well as fine lines and wrinkles. You can create a natural dark spot treatment by mixing turmeric with a small amount of water or moisturizer until it forms a paste. Apply to mixture to any dark spots and leave it on your skin for 30 minutes before rinsing off with warm water. Repeat daily and you should see results within a few weeks.
Depending on your complexion, turmeric may stain your skin a yellowish color. Before applying it to your face, try testing the treatment on a concealed area to see how it reacts with your skin.
3. Making Dietary Changes
3-1. Keep skin hydrated by drinking plenty of water.
Skin cells are made up of mostly water, so if you’re dehydrated, your skin will likely look dry, dull, or even slightly grey. For an easy way to increase your skin’s brightness, aim to drink 6-8 cups of water per day.
Any source of H2O will help nourish your skin, not just plain water. If you struggle to drink the recommended 8 cups a day, try to incorporate more fruits, veggies, or teas (all of which contain water) into your diet.
Try to avoid smoking or excessive alcohol consumption, as both can further dehydrate your skin.
3-2. Eat foods rich in beta-carotene to boost new skin cell production.
Your body can convert beta-carotene (a plant pigment that gives certain veggies their color) into vitamin A, which regulates cell production and encourages the production of fresh, new skin cells. It is also an antioxidant and can help repair the damage the sun does to your skin. Beta-carotene can be found naturally in certain fruits and vegetables, including carrots, papayas, mangoes, and dark leafy greens. Aim for three 1-cup servings every day.
Not a fan of these foods? You can also take a beta-carotene supplement. Just be sure to check with your doctor about proper dosage and use.
3-3. Consume more antioxidants to fight inflammation and free radical damage.
Free radicals—found in UVA and UVB rays from the sun as well as infrared radiation, pollutants, and other stressors— can damage your skin cells, dulling your natural brightness. Naturally occurring antioxidants can help combat this damage and reduce inflammation in your skin.
You can find skin-brightening antioxidants in green tea, tomatoes, almonds, berries, dark chocolate, pomegranates, and green vegetables such as kale or broccoli.
3-4. Increase your intake of zinc and iron to promote new cell production.
Zinc contributes to cell production and natural turnover of cells, helping to reduce dullness caused by dead skin. Iron will help to increase your skin’s glow by fortifying your red blood cells. Aim for 1 serving of fortified cereal, lean meat (such as pork and poultry), or oysters per day to reach an optimal level of zinc and iron.
If you don’t consume meat or shellfish, talk to your doctor about whether iron and zinc supplements might be a good choice for you.
3-5. Aim for 65-90 milligrams of vitamin C daily to improve skin’s healing.
Vitamin C is a powerhouse element for your complexion, promoting radiant skin and helping blemishes heal properly. However, because your body doesn't produce or store vitamin C, you’ll need to get it from your diet or supplements. Most adults should aim to consume 65 to 90 milligrams of vitamin C per day for bright, glowing skin (and a healthy immune system too).
Vitamin C can be found in strawberries, citrus fruits, red peppers, and broccoli. Two 1-cup servings should provide the recommended daily dosage of vitamin C.
If you feel you’re not getting enough vitamin C in your diet, there are plenty of supplements that can provide you with extra. Just try not to consume more than 2,000 mg per day.
Tips
You can also achieve brighter-looking skin by using makeup, such as a dewy foundation or shimmer highlighter.
Warnings
Before applying new products or homemade treatments to your entire face, try testing them on a small patch of skin to ensure they don’t cause a negative reaction.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:58:44",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Finding a Regular Skin Care Routine\\n1-1. Wash your face\\nWashing your face is the first and most basic step in any skin care routine. By washing your skin twice a day with a simple cleanser, you remove oil, pollutants, dirt, and makeup that can clog pores, cause acne, and make skin appear less than fresh.\\nYour facial cleanser should wash your skin without stripping away the healthy oils that give your face its natural glow. If you have oily or acne-prone skin, you should opt for foaming liquids. If you struggle with dry skin, select a cream or lotion cleansers. Oil-based face wash is great for sensitive skin and melting balms can help to sooth more mature skin.\\n1-2. Moisturize your skin twice a day to prevent dry, dull skin.\\nWhen your skin is dry, it can appear duller and darker. Use a hydrating moisturizer in the morning and before bed to restore your skin’s natural brightness and glow.\\nIf you have shiny skin, look for an oil-free hydrator with ingredients like hyaluronic acid to provide weightless moisture and even out slickness into brightness.\\n1-3. Exfoliate your skin 1-2 times per week to remove dead cells.\\nThroughout your daily life, residues and dead cells can accumulate on the surface of your skin. This can lead to uneven texture that may cause your skin to appear dull. To get smoother and brighter skin, exfoliate your face once or twice a week using a brush, sponge, or chemical exfoliant such as alpha or beta hydroxy acid (found in many store-bought face washes).\\nIf you use a scrub or chemical exfoliator, rub the product onto your skin gently using small, circular motions for about 30 seconds. Then rinse off using lukewarm, rather than hot, water. If you are using a brush or sponge, use short, light strokes.\\nYou can make your own exfoliant using two parts sugar or salt mixed with one part oil of any kind. Since it dissolves more easily, sugar is less abrasive than salt, making it a better option for more sensitive skin.\\n2. Using Natural Face Masks and Treatments\\n2-1. Nourish your skin with a yogurt and honey mask.\\nMix 2 tablespoons (30 mL) plain yogurt with 1 tablespoon (15 mL) honey together in a small bowl and apply it to your face in a thin layer. Let the mask dry for 10-15 minutes before rinsing the mixture off with warm water. Repeat a few times a week for the best results.\\nBoth yogurt and honey are natural skin brighteners, as well as moisturizers, making them great natural ingredients for a glow-inducing face mask.\\nFeel free to use any type of yogurt for your face mask: whether the yogurt comes from the milk of goats, sheep, or cows, it will still be packed with complexion-brightening B-vitamins, as well as skin-strengthening vitamin D and collagen-boosting vitamin A.\\nDon’t want to make your own yogurt treatment? You can purchase yogurt-based face masks online or at your local beauty store.\\n2-2. Mash up a papaya for a lightening and exfoliating facial treatment.\\nPapaya contains papain enzymes, which are natural acne fighters, exfoliators, and skin lighteners. Take advantage of this natural brightener by mashing a papaya into a fine and smooth paste. Apply it to your face and let it sit for about 20 minutes before washing the mask off with warm water. Repeat daily for a few weeks until you start to see results.\\nIf the mashed papaya is too thick or clumpy, try blending it with some olive oil or almond oil to improve the consistency.\\n2-3. Place cucumber slices under your eyes to brighten dark circles.\\nMany people struggle with dark circles under their eyes—especially after a poor night’s sleep. To naturally brighten this trouble area, place fresh cucumber slices directly onto the skin beneath your eyes. The cucumber will help bind collagen to ensure firm skin while also providing an anti inflammatory effect. Leave the slices on for 10-15 minutes and you should see results right away.\\nFor an extra cooling and puffiness-fighting effect, place cucumber slices in a refrigerator for a few minutes before using on your skin.\\n2-4. Try a turmeric treatment to brighten dark spots.\\nTurmeric is a natural exfoliator that has been proven to reduce the appearance of hyperpigmentation, as well as fine lines and wrinkles. You can create a natural dark spot treatment by mixing turmeric with a small amount of water or moisturizer until it forms a paste. Apply to mixture to any dark spots and leave it on your skin for 30 minutes before rinsing off with warm water. Repeat daily and you should see results within a few weeks.\\nDepending on your complexion, turmeric may stain your skin a yellowish color. Before applying it to your face, try testing the treatment on a concealed area to see how it reacts with your skin.\\n3. Making Dietary Changes\\n3-1. Keep skin hydrated by drinking plenty of water.\\nSkin cells are made up of mostly water, so if you’re dehydrated, your skin will likely look dry, dull, or even slightly grey. For an easy way to increase your skin’s brightness, aim to drink 6-8 cups of water per day.\\nAny source of H2O will help nourish your skin, not just plain water. If you struggle to drink the recommended 8 cups a day, try to incorporate more fruits, veggies, or teas (all of which contain water) into your diet.\\nTry to avoid smoking or excessive alcohol consumption, as both can further dehydrate your skin.\\n3-2. Eat foods rich in beta-carotene to boost new skin cell production.\\nYour body can convert beta-carotene (a plant pigment that gives certain veggies their color) into vitamin A, which regulates cell production and encourages the production of fresh, new skin cells. It is also an antioxidant and can help repair the damage the sun does to your skin. Beta-carotene can be found naturally in certain fruits and vegetables, including carrots, papayas, mangoes, and dark leafy greens. Aim for three 1-cup servings every day.\\nNot a fan of these foods? You can also take a beta-carotene supplement. Just be sure to check with your doctor about proper dosage and use.\\n3-3. Consume more antioxidants to fight inflammation and free radical damage.\\nFree radicals—found in UVA and UVB rays from the sun as well as infrared radiation, pollutants, and other stressors— can damage your skin cells, dulling your natural brightness. Naturally occurring antioxidants can help combat this damage and reduce inflammation in your skin.\\nYou can find skin-brightening antioxidants in green tea, tomatoes, almonds, berries, dark chocolate, pomegranates, and green vegetables such as kale or broccoli.\\n3-4. Increase your intake of zinc and iron to promote new cell production.\\nZinc contributes to cell production and natural turnover of cells, helping to reduce dullness caused by dead skin. Iron will help to increase your skin’s glow by fortifying your red blood cells. Aim for 1 serving of fortified cereal, lean meat (such as pork and poultry), or oysters per day to reach an optimal level of zinc and iron.\\nIf you don’t consume meat or shellfish, talk to your doctor about whether iron and zinc supplements might be a good choice for you.\\n3-5. Aim for 65-90 milligrams of vitamin C daily to improve skin’s healing.\\nVitamin C is a powerhouse element for your complexion, promoting radiant skin and helping blemishes heal properly. However, because your body doesn't produce or store vitamin C, you’ll need to get it from your diet or supplements. Most adults should aim to consume 65 to 90 milligrams of vitamin C per day for bright, glowing skin (and a healthy immune system too).\\nVitamin C can be found in strawberries, citrus fruits, red peppers, and broccoli. Two 1-cup servings should provide the recommended daily dosage of vitamin C.\\nIf you feel you’re not getting enough vitamin C in your diet, there are plenty of supplements that can provide you with extra. Just try not to consume more than 2,000 mg per day.\\nTips\\nYou can also achieve brighter-looking skin by using makeup, such as a dewy foundation or shimmer highlighter.\\nWarnings\\nBefore applying new products or homemade treatments to your entire face, try testing them on a small patch of skin to ensure they don’t cause a negative reaction.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"When your skin is dry or improperly cared for, it can begin to look dull and lackluster. Luckily, you can brighten your skin naturally using a number of easy methods. By incorporating basic skin care practices into your daily routine, mixing up some homemade facial treatments, and making small changes to your diet, you’ll be on your way to a naturally glowing complexion.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Finding a Regular Skin Care Routine\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Wash your face\", \"描述\": \"Washing your face is the first and most basic step in any skin care routine. By washing your skin twice a day with a simple cleanser, you remove oil, pollutants, dirt, and makeup that can clog pores, cause acne, and make skin appear less than fresh.\\nYour facial cleanser should wash your skin without stripping away the healthy oils that give your face its natural glow. If you have oily or acne-prone skin, you should opt for foaming liquids. If you struggle with dry skin, select a cream or lotion cleansers. Oil-based face wash is great for sensitive skin and melting balms can help to sooth more mature skin.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Moisturize your skin twice a day to prevent dry, dull skin.\", \"描述\": \"When your skin is dry, it can appear duller and darker. Use a hydrating moisturizer in the morning and before bed to restore your skin’s natural brightness and glow.\\nIf you have shiny skin, look for an oil-free hydrator with ingredients like hyaluronic acid to provide weightless moisture and even out slickness into brightness.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Exfoliate your skin 1-2 times per week to remove dead cells.\", \"描述\": \"Throughout your daily life, residues and dead cells can accumulate on the surface of your skin. This can lead to uneven texture that may cause your skin to appear dull. To get smoother and brighter skin, exfoliate your face once or twice a week using a brush, sponge, or chemical exfoliant such as alpha or beta hydroxy acid (found in many store-bought face washes).\\nIf you use a scrub or chemical exfoliator, rub the product onto your skin gently using small, circular motions for about 30 seconds. Then rinse off using lukewarm, rather than hot, water. If you are using a brush or sponge, use short, light strokes.\\nYou can make your own exfoliant using two parts sugar or salt mixed with one part oil of any kind. Since it dissolves more easily, sugar is less abrasive than salt, making it a better option for more sensitive skin.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Using Natural Face Masks and Treatments\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Nourish your skin with a yogurt and honey mask.\", \"描述\": \"Mix 2 tablespoons (30 mL) plain yogurt with 1 tablespoon (15 mL) honey together in a small bowl and apply it to your face in a thin layer. Let the mask dry for 10-15 minutes before rinsing the mixture off with warm water. Repeat a few times a week for the best results.\\nBoth yogurt and honey are natural skin brighteners, as well as moisturizers, making them great natural ingredients for a glow-inducing face mask.\\nFeel free to use any type of yogurt for your face mask: whether the yogurt comes from the milk of goats, sheep, or cows, it will still be packed with complexion-brightening B-vitamins, as well as skin-strengthening vitamin D and collagen-boosting vitamin A.\\nDon’t want to make your own yogurt treatment? You can purchase yogurt-based face masks online or at your local beauty store.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Mash up a papaya for a lightening and exfoliating facial treatment.\", \"描述\": \"Papaya contains papain enzymes, which are natural acne fighters, exfoliators, and skin lighteners. Take advantage of this natural brightener by mashing a papaya into a fine and smooth paste. Apply it to your face and let it sit for about 20 minutes before washing the mask off with warm water. Repeat daily for a few weeks until you start to see results.\\nIf the mashed papaya is too thick or clumpy, try blending it with some olive oil or almond oil to improve the consistency.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Place cucumber slices under your eyes to brighten dark circles.\", \"描述\": \"Many people struggle with dark circles under their eyes—especially after a poor night’s sleep. To naturally brighten this trouble area, place fresh cucumber slices directly onto the skin beneath your eyes. The cucumber will help bind collagen to ensure firm skin while also providing an anti inflammatory effect. Leave the slices on for 10-15 minutes and you should see results right away.\\nFor an extra cooling and puffiness-fighting effect, place cucumber slices in a refrigerator for a few minutes before using on your skin.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Try a turmeric treatment to brighten dark spots.\", \"描述\": \"Turmeric is a natural exfoliator that has been proven to reduce the appearance of hyperpigmentation, as well as fine lines and wrinkles. You can create a natural dark spot treatment by mixing turmeric with a small amount of water or moisturizer until it forms a paste. Apply to mixture to any dark spots and leave it on your skin for 30 minutes before rinsing off with warm water. Repeat daily and you should see results within a few weeks.\\nDepending on your complexion, turmeric may stain your skin a yellowish color. Before applying it to your face, try testing the treatment on a concealed area to see how it reacts with your skin.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Making Dietary Changes\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Keep skin hydrated by drinking plenty of water.\", \"描述\": \"Skin cells are made up of mostly water, so if you’re dehydrated, your skin will likely look dry, dull, or even slightly grey. For an easy way to increase your skin’s brightness, aim to drink 6-8 cups of water per day.\\nAny source of H2O will help nourish your skin, not just plain water. If you struggle to drink the recommended 8 cups a day, try to incorporate more fruits, veggies, or teas (all of which contain water) into your diet.\\nTry to avoid smoking or excessive alcohol consumption, as both can further dehydrate your skin.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Eat foods rich in beta-carotene to boost new skin cell production.\", \"描述\": \"Your body can convert beta-carotene (a plant pigment that gives certain veggies their color) into vitamin A, which regulates cell production and encourages the production of fresh, new skin cells. It is also an antioxidant and can help repair the damage the sun does to your skin. Beta-carotene can be found naturally in certain fruits and vegetables, including carrots, papayas, mangoes, and dark leafy greens. Aim for three 1-cup servings every day.\\nNot a fan of these foods? You can also take a beta-carotene supplement. Just be sure to check with your doctor about proper dosage and use.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Consume more antioxidants to fight inflammation and free radical damage.\", \"描述\": \"Free radicals—found in UVA and UVB rays from the sun as well as infrared radiation, pollutants, and other stressors— can damage your skin cells, dulling your natural brightness. Naturally occurring antioxidants can help combat this damage and reduce inflammation in your skin.\\nYou can find skin-brightening antioxidants in green tea, tomatoes, almonds, berries, dark chocolate, pomegranates, and green vegetables such as kale or broccoli.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Increase your intake of zinc and iron to promote new cell production.\", \"描述\": \"Zinc contributes to cell production and natural turnover of cells, helping to reduce dullness caused by dead skin. Iron will help to increase your skin’s glow by fortifying your red blood cells. Aim for 1 serving of fortified cereal, lean meat (such as pork and poultry), or oysters per day to reach an optimal level of zinc and iron.\\nIf you don’t consume meat or shellfish, talk to your doctor about whether iron and zinc supplements might be a good choice for you.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Aim for 65-90 milligrams of vitamin C daily to improve skin’s healing.\", \"描述\": \"Vitamin C is a powerhouse element for your complexion, promoting radiant skin and helping blemishes heal properly. However, because your body doesn't produce or store vitamin C, you’ll need to get it from your diet or supplements. Most adults should aim to consume 65 to 90 milligrams of vitamin C per day for bright, glowing skin (and a healthy immune system too).\\nVitamin C can be found in strawberries, citrus fruits, red peppers, and broccoli. Two 1-cup servings should provide the recommended daily dosage of vitamin C.\\nIf you feel you’re not getting enough vitamin C in your diet, there are plenty of supplements that can provide you with extra. Just try not to consume more than 2,000 mg per day.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"You can also achieve brighter-looking skin by using makeup, such as a dewy foundation or shimmer highlighter.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Before applying new products or homemade treatments to your entire face, try testing them on a small patch of skin to ensure they don’t cause a negative reaction.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
6,987 |
How to Brighten Up a Dark Room
|
1. Getting Creative With Lighting and Color
1-1. Paint the ceiling white.
If the room's ceiling is painted a dark color, or has dark wooden beams, it is probably casting a pall over the entire room. Buy a can or two of white paint and give the ceiling a fresh coat. The bright white will reflect light instead of absorbing it, and you'll be amazed at what a difference it makes.
If you prefer to use color instead of plain white, try a pale yellow, mint or cream.
Even if you don't paint the walls white, painting the ceiling white will still make a big difference.
1-2. Limit accent colors.
You might be tempted to paint the room your favorite rich, deep color, but it's best to save bright and bold colors for accent walls or trim. In a dark room, a deep color won't look brilliant - it'll just add to the dark feel of the space. If you absolutely must use dark blue, green, red or another rich color, choose one small wall to paint, and paint the rest in a much lighter color.
Another way to incorporate some color without making the space darker is by adding a stenciled accent trim along the ceiling. Buy or make a stencil in a shape that suits your taste - flowers, leaves, and abstract designs are popular - and use your favorite paint color to make a pretty pattern.
Painting the baseboards and door trim a contrasting color is another way to add a festive touch to the room without making it too dark.
1-3. Make full use of natural light.
If you're working with a dark room, chances are you don't have a lot of natural light coming in, but it's important to make the most of what you have. If your windows are covered with dark shades or blinds, you're blocking out your best chance for brightening up the room. Instead of keeping your blinds closed, try the following:
Choose airy, light-colored window coverings that don't completely block out the light. For example, cream-colored linen or canvas curtains will provide privacy while still allowing the sunshine to filter into the room.
If you prefer blinds, look for cloth blinds in a light fabric that isn't completely opaque. Avoid wooden or plastic blinds that block out all of the light.
1-4. Replace overhead lights with soft perimeter lights.
Harsh overhead lighting can actually highlight the fact that a room is naturally dark. Instead of flooding the space with fluorescent lighting, choose your artificial lighting carefully so that it looks as natural and pleasant as possible.
Track lighting can really brighten a space without creating a harsh atmosphere.
Use plenty of strategically-placed floor lamps with light-colored shades to diffuse light all over the room.
1-5. Use diffused lighting.
If you have a dark corner or a room where there's no ceiling fixture, use multiple lights pointed towards the ceiling and walls. This reflected light provides a soft, overhead glow which minimizes harsh shadows.
Candles shouldn't be overlooked as a pleasant source of extra light. When you want to create an especially bright, cheerful atmosphere, light some candles in addition to using artificial lighting.
1-6. Add custom lighting.
If you frequently perform certain activities in the room, consider adding specific lights to help you work. Some lights mount under cabinets and over counters, and others may be useful on your sewing desk or piano.
1-7. Use brighter bulbs.
Replace the your bulbs with higher light intensity bulbs such as compact fluorescent bulbs (CFLs) of a lower wattage but higher light output. Higher wattage does not mean a higher light level.
You may also experiment with the subtle coloring of the lights. Bulbs that are classified as "daylight" usually put out light with a temperature around that of direct sunlight, and provide a cooler, bluer, more vivid light. "Soft white" bulbs have a lower light temperature which provides a warmer, more yellow light.
1-8. Go with dark and cozy as an alternative.
If there's just no getting around the fact that the room in question is dark, you could always nix the suggestions for brightening the room and go with the room's natural feel. Paint it a deep color and use rich, heavy decorations to create the feel of an old-fashioned parlor. Colors like charcoal and slate blue are popular choices for rooms that are meant to have a stately feel.
2. Sprucing Up the Accessories and Furniture
2-1. Assess your decorations and accessories.
Look at your artwork, knicknacks, book collection, and other decorations in the room you're trying to brighten up. Is anything adding to the feeling that the space is overly dim? It might be time to switch out that old black-and-white print for something more lively and bright. If you have stacks of books, a collection of old dolls or a wall of deep green plants, it might be time for those to go, too. If you're committed to brightening up your space, you might have to make some tough decisions about what to keep.
Choose your top 10 or so favorite books and display them artfully, rather than having your entire collection take up a wall in the dark room. The space that was previously covered with books can now be brightened up with something more cheerful.
If you're a plant lover, think about getting rid of big, dark plants and replacing them with plants that are lighter in color. Displaying a few succulents or ferns is an attractive touch, but having racks of plants can make a room feel darker.
2-2. Add mirrors.
Now that you've cleared away some space, try adding a few mirrors to the room. They'll reflect what light does leak into the room and make it seem at least a little brighter. Choose mirrors with light-colored frames that add to the room's airy feel.
Hanging mirrors in a room has the added benefit of making it feel larger.
2-3. Change up your dark furniture.
Do you have floor-to-ceiling wooden bookshelves that add to your room's dark feel? How about a dark cherry TV cabinet, or a big wooden bed with rich, dark posts? Heavy furniture can make even the brightest room look a little dreary. If you want to brighten things up, choose furniture with lighter wood.
You can also paint or refinish your existing furniture to give it a room-brightening makeover.
Buy brightly-colored slipcovers for your sofa and chairs.
2-4. Keep wires tucked away.
If you're like most people, you've got tangles of wires and cables snaking across your floor. Black wires can contribute to a room feeling dark and cluttered. Try keeping them neatly wound and secured with a piece of velcro. You can also tape the wires against the baseboard using light-colored electrical tape to keep them out of the way. You'll find that this seemingly trivial change makes a big difference.
2-5. Install wall-mounted shelving.
Another trick for making a room appear brighter is to eliminate the need for a lot of furniture. Instead of having a bunch of bookshelves and tables, try installing wall-mounted shelves that are composed of light-colored wood or painted white. Use them to store your books and a few decorations. Now you've eliminated the shadows cast by extra tables and other furniture.
3. Making Structural Changes
3-1. Brighten up your flooring.
If you have dark-colored floors, the quickest fix is to buy a brightly-colored throw rug to cover them up. However, investing a little more time and money to put in new flooring or refinish what you have might be worth it in the long run. If you really want to brighten up your room, consider the following:
If you have painted hardwood floors, refinish the floors to expose the light wood underneath. You might also consider painting the floors a brighter color, like pearl gray.
Concrete floors are sturdy and practical, and they come in many different colors. The finished concrete is polished until it's smooth and gleaming.
Brightly-colored tiles are a good choice for kitchens and bathrooms.
3-2. Replace your door with a glass one.
Both internal and external doors offer opportunities for more light to enter the room in question. If possible, replace your doors with glass french doors. You could also consider getting a door with a large window to let in more light. If these options aren't practical, simply painting your doors a lighter color will help brighten the room.
3-3. See if you can remove extra walls.
Your room might have a closed-off, dark feel if there's an extra wall blocking the light. If possible, consider taking out the extra wall to open things up a bit. This is commonly done where a wall blocks a room from a hallway, for example. If the wall doesn't contain beams that are holding up the ceiling, knocking it out shouldn't be a problem.
You'll want to hire a contractor to take a look at the room before deciding to knock out a wall by yourself. In some cases the wall might be serving a structural purpose. In old houses and apartments, it's also important to make sure the wall doesn't contain lead or asbestos before attempting to knock it down.
3-4. Consider adding windows.
This is the ultimate fix for a dark room, and it might be easier than you think. Before you rule out the possibility as being too much of an undertaking, have a contractor do an assessment of the room to help you better understand your options. If you're living in a place you plan on keeping for some time to come, it might be worthwhile to make it over into the bright, cheerful space you desire. Widening existing windows and doorways can also let in more light.
3-5. Install a skylight or solar tube.
Skylights let in natural light, and lots of it. There are skylights that can be installed right between rafters, making it a relatively inexpensive project. Reflective tubes that require little more than a good-sized hole in the sheetrock and the roof are another possibility. Some skylights can even open for ventilation.
Tips
Some newer compact fluorescent bulbs have a much warmer color and warm up more quickly than older bulbs. Moreover, they use less than half of the electricity of an incandescent bulb for an equivalent amount of light.
Light the walls. Lit walls not only reflect light and contribute to the overall 'brightness' of a room, but also make you feel more comfortable using the entire space. Dark walls and dark corners result in unused square footage. Make your room feel bigger, brighter and more welcoming.
Wash your windows! Cleaner windows let in more light.
Warnings
Burn candles safely and never leave them unattended.
Be careful when installing lamps and working with electricity. Consult an electrician if any difficulties arise.
Dispose of fluorescent bulbs properly. They contain mercury, which is considered toxic to humans and other living organisms. Most home stores will take fluorescent bulbs and dispose of them for you. If you accidentally break one, be careful when cleaning it. [12]
X
Trustworthy Source
United States Environmental Protection Agency
Independent U.S. government agency responsible for promoting safe environmental practices
Go to source
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:58:44",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Getting Creative With Lighting and Color\\n1-1. Paint the ceiling white.\\nIf the room's ceiling is painted a dark color, or has dark wooden beams, it is probably casting a pall over the entire room. Buy a can or two of white paint and give the ceiling a fresh coat. The bright white will reflect light instead of absorbing it, and you'll be amazed at what a difference it makes.\\nIf you prefer to use color instead of plain white, try a pale yellow, mint or cream.\\nEven if you don't paint the walls white, painting the ceiling white will still make a big difference.\\n1-2. Limit accent colors.\\nYou might be tempted to paint the room your favorite rich, deep color, but it's best to save bright and bold colors for accent walls or trim. In a dark room, a deep color won't look brilliant - it'll just add to the dark feel of the space. If you absolutely must use dark blue, green, red or another rich color, choose one small wall to paint, and paint the rest in a much lighter color.\\nAnother way to incorporate some color without making the space darker is by adding a stenciled accent trim along the ceiling. Buy or make a stencil in a shape that suits your taste - flowers, leaves, and abstract designs are popular - and use your favorite paint color to make a pretty pattern.\\nPainting the baseboards and door trim a contrasting color is another way to add a festive touch to the room without making it too dark.\\n1-3. Make full use of natural light.\\nIf you're working with a dark room, chances are you don't have a lot of natural light coming in, but it's important to make the most of what you have. If your windows are covered with dark shades or blinds, you're blocking out your best chance for brightening up the room. Instead of keeping your blinds closed, try the following:\\nChoose airy, light-colored window coverings that don't completely block out the light. For example, cream-colored linen or canvas curtains will provide privacy while still allowing the sunshine to filter into the room.\\nIf you prefer blinds, look for cloth blinds in a light fabric that isn't completely opaque. Avoid wooden or plastic blinds that block out all of the light.\\n1-4. Replace overhead lights with soft perimeter lights.\\nHarsh overhead lighting can actually highlight the fact that a room is naturally dark. Instead of flooding the space with fluorescent lighting, choose your artificial lighting carefully so that it looks as natural and pleasant as possible.\\nTrack lighting can really brighten a space without creating a harsh atmosphere.\\nUse plenty of strategically-placed floor lamps with light-colored shades to diffuse light all over the room.\\n1-5. Use diffused lighting.\\nIf you have a dark corner or a room where there's no ceiling fixture, use multiple lights pointed towards the ceiling and walls. This reflected light provides a soft, overhead glow which minimizes harsh shadows.\\nCandles shouldn't be overlooked as a pleasant source of extra light. When you want to create an especially bright, cheerful atmosphere, light some candles in addition to using artificial lighting.\\n1-6. Add custom lighting.\\nIf you frequently perform certain activities in the room, consider adding specific lights to help you work. Some lights mount under cabinets and over counters, and others may be useful on your sewing desk or piano.\\n1-7. Use brighter bulbs.\\nReplace the your bulbs with higher light intensity bulbs such as compact fluorescent bulbs (CFLs) of a lower wattage but higher light output. Higher wattage does not mean a higher light level.\\nYou may also experiment with the subtle coloring of the lights. Bulbs that are classified as \\\"daylight\\\" usually put out light with a temperature around that of direct sunlight, and provide a cooler, bluer, more vivid light. \\\"Soft white\\\" bulbs have a lower light temperature which provides a warmer, more yellow light.\\n1-8. Go with dark and cozy as an alternative.\\nIf there's just no getting around the fact that the room in question is dark, you could always nix the suggestions for brightening the room and go with the room's natural feel. Paint it a deep color and use rich, heavy decorations to create the feel of an old-fashioned parlor. Colors like charcoal and slate blue are popular choices for rooms that are meant to have a stately feel.\\n2. Sprucing Up the Accessories and Furniture\\n2-1. Assess your decorations and accessories.\\nLook at your artwork, knicknacks, book collection, and other decorations in the room you're trying to brighten up. Is anything adding to the feeling that the space is overly dim? It might be time to switch out that old black-and-white print for something more lively and bright. If you have stacks of books, a collection of old dolls or a wall of deep green plants, it might be time for those to go, too. If you're committed to brightening up your space, you might have to make some tough decisions about what to keep.\\nChoose your top 10 or so favorite books and display them artfully, rather than having your entire collection take up a wall in the dark room. The space that was previously covered with books can now be brightened up with something more cheerful.\\nIf you're a plant lover, think about getting rid of big, dark plants and replacing them with plants that are lighter in color. Displaying a few succulents or ferns is an attractive touch, but having racks of plants can make a room feel darker.\\n2-2. Add mirrors.\\nNow that you've cleared away some space, try adding a few mirrors to the room. They'll reflect what light does leak into the room and make it seem at least a little brighter. Choose mirrors with light-colored frames that add to the room's airy feel.\\nHanging mirrors in a room has the added benefit of making it feel larger.\\n2-3. Change up your dark furniture.\\nDo you have floor-to-ceiling wooden bookshelves that add to your room's dark feel? How about a dark cherry TV cabinet, or a big wooden bed with rich, dark posts? Heavy furniture can make even the brightest room look a little dreary. If you want to brighten things up, choose furniture with lighter wood.\\nYou can also paint or refinish your existing furniture to give it a room-brightening makeover.\\nBuy brightly-colored slipcovers for your sofa and chairs.\\n2-4. Keep wires tucked away.\\nIf you're like most people, you've got tangles of wires and cables snaking across your floor. Black wires can contribute to a room feeling dark and cluttered. Try keeping them neatly wound and secured with a piece of velcro. You can also tape the wires against the baseboard using light-colored electrical tape to keep them out of the way. You'll find that this seemingly trivial change makes a big difference.\\n2-5. Install wall-mounted shelving.\\nAnother trick for making a room appear brighter is to eliminate the need for a lot of furniture. Instead of having a bunch of bookshelves and tables, try installing wall-mounted shelves that are composed of light-colored wood or painted white. Use them to store your books and a few decorations. Now you've eliminated the shadows cast by extra tables and other furniture.\\n3. Making Structural Changes\\n3-1. Brighten up your flooring.\\nIf you have dark-colored floors, the quickest fix is to buy a brightly-colored throw rug to cover them up. However, investing a little more time and money to put in new flooring or refinish what you have might be worth it in the long run. If you really want to brighten up your room, consider the following:\\nIf you have painted hardwood floors, refinish the floors to expose the light wood underneath. You might also consider painting the floors a brighter color, like pearl gray.\\nConcrete floors are sturdy and practical, and they come in many different colors. The finished concrete is polished until it's smooth and gleaming.\\nBrightly-colored tiles are a good choice for kitchens and bathrooms.\\n3-2. Replace your door with a glass one.\\nBoth internal and external doors offer opportunities for more light to enter the room in question. If possible, replace your doors with glass french doors. You could also consider getting a door with a large window to let in more light. If these options aren't practical, simply painting your doors a lighter color will help brighten the room.\\n3-3. See if you can remove extra walls.\\nYour room might have a closed-off, dark feel if there's an extra wall blocking the light. If possible, consider taking out the extra wall to open things up a bit. This is commonly done where a wall blocks a room from a hallway, for example. If the wall doesn't contain beams that are holding up the ceiling, knocking it out shouldn't be a problem.\\nYou'll want to hire a contractor to take a look at the room before deciding to knock out a wall by yourself. In some cases the wall might be serving a structural purpose. In old houses and apartments, it's also important to make sure the wall doesn't contain lead or asbestos before attempting to knock it down.\\n3-4. Consider adding windows.\\nThis is the ultimate fix for a dark room, and it might be easier than you think. Before you rule out the possibility as being too much of an undertaking, have a contractor do an assessment of the room to help you better understand your options. If you're living in a place you plan on keeping for some time to come, it might be worthwhile to make it over into the bright, cheerful space you desire. Widening existing windows and doorways can also let in more light.\\n3-5. Install a skylight or solar tube.\\nSkylights let in natural light, and lots of it. There are skylights that can be installed right between rafters, making it a relatively inexpensive project. Reflective tubes that require little more than a good-sized hole in the sheetrock and the roof are another possibility. Some skylights can even open for ventilation.\\nTips\\nSome newer compact fluorescent bulbs have a much warmer color and warm up more quickly than older bulbs. Moreover, they use less than half of the electricity of an incandescent bulb for an equivalent amount of light.\\nLight the walls. Lit walls not only reflect light and contribute to the overall 'brightness' of a room, but also make you feel more comfortable using the entire space. Dark walls and dark corners result in unused square footage. Make your room feel bigger, brighter and more welcoming.\\nWash your windows! Cleaner windows let in more light.\\nWarnings\\nBurn candles safely and never leave them unattended.\\nBe careful when installing lamps and working with electricity. Consult an electrician if any difficulties arise.\\nDispose of fluorescent bulbs properly. They contain mercury, which is considered toxic to humans and other living organisms. Most home stores will take fluorescent bulbs and dispose of them for you. If you accidentally break one, be careful when cleaning it. [12]\\nX\\nTrustworthy Source\\nUnited States Environmental Protection Agency\\nIndependent U.S. government agency responsible for promoting safe environmental practices\\nGo to source\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"If there's a room in your house that's a bit dim, there are many tricks you can use to brighten it up right away. Changing the lighting and color will make a dramatic difference, and choosing lighter furniture and decorations can also help a room feel spacious and bright. If you want to make a bigger investment, adding windows and replacing the flooring will change your room from a cave to a haven.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Getting Creative With Lighting and Color\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Paint the ceiling white.\", \"描述\": \"If the room's ceiling is painted a dark color, or has dark wooden beams, it is probably casting a pall over the entire room. Buy a can or two of white paint and give the ceiling a fresh coat. The bright white will reflect light instead of absorbing it, and you'll be amazed at what a difference it makes.\\nIf you prefer to use color instead of plain white, try a pale yellow, mint or cream.\\nEven if you don't paint the walls white, painting the ceiling white will still make a big difference.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Limit accent colors.\", \"描述\": \"You might be tempted to paint the room your favorite rich, deep color, but it's best to save bright and bold colors for accent walls or trim. In a dark room, a deep color won't look brilliant - it'll just add to the dark feel of the space. If you absolutely must use dark blue, green, red or another rich color, choose one small wall to paint, and paint the rest in a much lighter color.\\nAnother way to incorporate some color without making the space darker is by adding a stenciled accent trim along the ceiling. Buy or make a stencil in a shape that suits your taste - flowers, leaves, and abstract designs are popular - and use your favorite paint color to make a pretty pattern.\\nPainting the baseboards and door trim a contrasting color is another way to add a festive touch to the room without making it too dark.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Make full use of natural light.\", \"描述\": \"If you're working with a dark room, chances are you don't have a lot of natural light coming in, but it's important to make the most of what you have. If your windows are covered with dark shades or blinds, you're blocking out your best chance for brightening up the room. Instead of keeping your blinds closed, try the following:\\nChoose airy, light-colored window coverings that don't completely block out the light. For example, cream-colored linen or canvas curtains will provide privacy while still allowing the sunshine to filter into the room.\\nIf you prefer blinds, look for cloth blinds in a light fabric that isn't completely opaque. Avoid wooden or plastic blinds that block out all of the light.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Replace overhead lights with soft perimeter lights.\", \"描述\": \"Harsh overhead lighting can actually highlight the fact that a room is naturally dark. Instead of flooding the space with fluorescent lighting, choose your artificial lighting carefully so that it looks as natural and pleasant as possible.\\nTrack lighting can really brighten a space without creating a harsh atmosphere.\\nUse plenty of strategically-placed floor lamps with light-colored shades to diffuse light all over the room.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Use diffused lighting.\", \"描述\": \"If you have a dark corner or a room where there's no ceiling fixture, use multiple lights pointed towards the ceiling and walls. This reflected light provides a soft, overhead glow which minimizes harsh shadows.\\nCandles shouldn't be overlooked as a pleasant source of extra light. When you want to create an especially bright, cheerful atmosphere, light some candles in addition to using artificial lighting.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Add custom lighting.\", \"描述\": \"If you frequently perform certain activities in the room, consider adding specific lights to help you work. Some lights mount under cabinets and over counters, and others may be useful on your sewing desk or piano.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Use brighter bulbs.\", \"描述\": \"Replace the your bulbs with higher light intensity bulbs such as compact fluorescent bulbs (CFLs) of a lower wattage but higher light output. Higher wattage does not mean a higher light level.\\nYou may also experiment with the subtle coloring of the lights. Bulbs that are classified as \\\"daylight\\\" usually put out light with a temperature around that of direct sunlight, and provide a cooler, bluer, more vivid light. \\\"Soft white\\\" bulbs have a lower light temperature which provides a warmer, more yellow light.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Go with dark and cozy as an alternative.\", \"描述\": \"If there's just no getting around the fact that the room in question is dark, you could always nix the suggestions for brightening the room and go with the room's natural feel. Paint it a deep color and use rich, heavy decorations to create the feel of an old-fashioned parlor. Colors like charcoal and slate blue are popular choices for rooms that are meant to have a stately feel.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Sprucing Up the Accessories and Furniture\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Assess your decorations and accessories.\", \"描述\": \"Look at your artwork, knicknacks, book collection, and other decorations in the room you're trying to brighten up. Is anything adding to the feeling that the space is overly dim? It might be time to switch out that old black-and-white print for something more lively and bright. If you have stacks of books, a collection of old dolls or a wall of deep green plants, it might be time for those to go, too. If you're committed to brightening up your space, you might have to make some tough decisions about what to keep.\\nChoose your top 10 or so favorite books and display them artfully, rather than having your entire collection take up a wall in the dark room. The space that was previously covered with books can now be brightened up with something more cheerful.\\nIf you're a plant lover, think about getting rid of big, dark plants and replacing them with plants that are lighter in color. Displaying a few succulents or ferns is an attractive touch, but having racks of plants can make a room feel darker.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Add mirrors.\", \"描述\": \"Now that you've cleared away some space, try adding a few mirrors to the room. They'll reflect what light does leak into the room and make it seem at least a little brighter. Choose mirrors with light-colored frames that add to the room's airy feel.\\nHanging mirrors in a room has the added benefit of making it feel larger.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Change up your dark furniture.\", \"描述\": \"Do you have floor-to-ceiling wooden bookshelves that add to your room's dark feel? How about a dark cherry TV cabinet, or a big wooden bed with rich, dark posts? Heavy furniture can make even the brightest room look a little dreary. If you want to brighten things up, choose furniture with lighter wood.\\nYou can also paint or refinish your existing furniture to give it a room-brightening makeover.\\nBuy brightly-colored slipcovers for your sofa and chairs.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Keep wires tucked away.\", \"描述\": \"If you're like most people, you've got tangles of wires and cables snaking across your floor. Black wires can contribute to a room feeling dark and cluttered. Try keeping them neatly wound and secured with a piece of velcro. You can also tape the wires against the baseboard using light-colored electrical tape to keep them out of the way. You'll find that this seemingly trivial change makes a big difference.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Install wall-mounted shelving.\", \"描述\": \"Another trick for making a room appear brighter is to eliminate the need for a lot of furniture. Instead of having a bunch of bookshelves and tables, try installing wall-mounted shelves that are composed of light-colored wood or painted white. Use them to store your books and a few decorations. Now you've eliminated the shadows cast by extra tables and other furniture.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Making Structural Changes\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Brighten up your flooring.\", \"描述\": \"If you have dark-colored floors, the quickest fix is to buy a brightly-colored throw rug to cover them up. However, investing a little more time and money to put in new flooring or refinish what you have might be worth it in the long run. If you really want to brighten up your room, consider the following:\\nIf you have painted hardwood floors, refinish the floors to expose the light wood underneath. You might also consider painting the floors a brighter color, like pearl gray.\\nConcrete floors are sturdy and practical, and they come in many different colors. The finished concrete is polished until it's smooth and gleaming.\\nBrightly-colored tiles are a good choice for kitchens and bathrooms.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Replace your door with a glass one.\", \"描述\": \"Both internal and external doors offer opportunities for more light to enter the room in question. If possible, replace your doors with glass french doors. You could also consider getting a door with a large window to let in more light. If these options aren't practical, simply painting your doors a lighter color will help brighten the room.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"See if you can remove extra walls.\", \"描述\": \"Your room might have a closed-off, dark feel if there's an extra wall blocking the light. If possible, consider taking out the extra wall to open things up a bit. This is commonly done where a wall blocks a room from a hallway, for example. If the wall doesn't contain beams that are holding up the ceiling, knocking it out shouldn't be a problem.\\nYou'll want to hire a contractor to take a look at the room before deciding to knock out a wall by yourself. In some cases the wall might be serving a structural purpose. In old houses and apartments, it's also important to make sure the wall doesn't contain lead or asbestos before attempting to knock it down.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Consider adding windows.\", \"描述\": \"This is the ultimate fix for a dark room, and it might be easier than you think. Before you rule out the possibility as being too much of an undertaking, have a contractor do an assessment of the room to help you better understand your options. If you're living in a place you plan on keeping for some time to come, it might be worthwhile to make it over into the bright, cheerful space you desire. Widening existing windows and doorways can also let in more light.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Install a skylight or solar tube.\", \"描述\": \"Skylights let in natural light, and lots of it. There are skylights that can be installed right between rafters, making it a relatively inexpensive project. Reflective tubes that require little more than a good-sized hole in the sheetrock and the roof are another possibility. Some skylights can even open for ventilation.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Some newer compact fluorescent bulbs have a much warmer color and warm up more quickly than older bulbs. Moreover, they use less than half of the electricity of an incandescent bulb for an equivalent amount of light.\\n\", \"Light the walls. Lit walls not only reflect light and contribute to the overall 'brightness' of a room, but also make you feel more comfortable using the entire space. Dark walls and dark corners result in unused square footage. Make your room feel bigger, brighter and more welcoming.\\n\", \"Wash your windows! Cleaner windows let in more light.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Burn candles safely and never leave them unattended.\\n\", \"Be careful when installing lamps and working with electricity. Consult an electrician if any difficulties arise.\\n\", \"Dispose of fluorescent bulbs properly. They contain mercury, which is considered toxic to humans and other living organisms. Most home stores will take fluorescent bulbs and dispose of them for you. If you accidentally break one, be careful when cleaning it. [12]\\nX\\nTrustworthy Source\\nUnited States Environmental Protection Agency\\nIndependent U.S. government agency responsible for promoting safe environmental practices\\nGo to source\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
6,988 |
How to Brighten Your Car's Yellowing Headlights
|
1. Headlight Lens Restorer
1-1. Make a trip to your local auto parts store and pick up a headlight lens restorer.
1-2. Start off by washing the headlights and drying them.
This should be done in the shade.
1-3. Apply the restorer in a small amount to a cotton towel and work it in deep small circles in a small area of your lens.
It should dry as you keep working it in.
Repeat the process in the same spot and as it is dry, use a clean spot of the towel to buff away all remaining compound.
1-4. Now that you like the results, repeat the process to the entire headlight, keeping your working area small.
1-5. If you were not happy with the result, you have to move on to method 2.
2. Sandpaper and Clear Coat Spray Paint
2-1. Get what you will need.
Method 2 requires wet/dry sandpaper (800grit & 1500grit), a spray bottle filled with clean water, dry cotton towels, and a clear coat spray paint that offers UV protection.
2-2. Wash your headlights.
Once clean, spray a mist of water on the 800 grit paper and start working in a light/soft slow circle motion on one headlight. *keep the paper wet at all times and spray the lens to clear off the mess.
2-3. Repeat the process on the same lens with the 1500 grit paper.
Wash the lens off and let it dry. It will look even worse than before. Once its fully dry, spray it in an even light coat of the clear spray paint following the instructions on the can. Remember to cover your car's paint and all areas that may get paint overspray on them. Once the clear is dry, you can compare your brighter lens to your old one. Everyone says to just repeat the process on the other lens, but this is you chance to compare and decide if you want to replace or restore. It also gives you the bragging rights and ability to show loved ones the difference and what you can do.
Tips
Wear a protective mask when using spray paint.
Do not do this in a windy condition or in direct sunlight.
Allow the clear paint to dry overnight before driving in the rain or going through a car wash.
Warnings
Do not use spray paint around a heat source, sparks, open flame, or in a closed garage.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:58:44",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Headlight Lens Restorer\\n1-1. Make a trip to your local auto parts store and pick up a headlight lens restorer.\\n\\n1-2. Start off by washing the headlights and drying them.\\nThis should be done in the shade.\\n1-3. Apply the restorer in a small amount to a cotton towel and work it in deep small circles in a small area of your lens.\\nIt should dry as you keep working it in.\\nRepeat the process in the same spot and as it is dry, use a clean spot of the towel to buff away all remaining compound.\\n1-4. Now that you like the results, repeat the process to the entire headlight, keeping your working area small.\\n\\n1-5. If you were not happy with the result, you have to move on to method 2.\\n\\n2. Sandpaper and Clear Coat Spray Paint\\n2-1. Get what you will need.\\nMethod 2 requires wet/dry sandpaper (800grit & 1500grit), a spray bottle filled with clean water, dry cotton towels, and a clear coat spray paint that offers UV protection.\\n2-2. Wash your headlights.\\nOnce clean, spray a mist of water on the 800 grit paper and start working in a light/soft slow circle motion on one headlight. *keep the paper wet at all times and spray the lens to clear off the mess.\\n2-3. Repeat the process on the same lens with the 1500 grit paper.\\nWash the lens off and let it dry. It will look even worse than before. Once its fully dry, spray it in an even light coat of the clear spray paint following the instructions on the can. Remember to cover your car's paint and all areas that may get paint overspray on them. Once the clear is dry, you can compare your brighter lens to your old one. Everyone says to just repeat the process on the other lens, but this is you chance to compare and decide if you want to replace or restore. It also gives you the bragging rights and ability to show loved ones the difference and what you can do.\\nTips\\nWear a protective mask when using spray paint.\\nDo not do this in a windy condition or in direct sunlight.\\nAllow the clear paint to dry overnight before driving in the rain or going through a car wash.\\nWarnings\\nDo not use spray paint around a heat source, sparks, open flame, or in a closed garage.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Are you having trouble seeing your headlights on a dark road? That yellowing on your headlights is Plastic/Polycarbonate oxidation. Start with Step 1 for two different methods to bring new life back into your old headlights.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Headlight Lens Restorer\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Make a trip to your local auto parts store and pick up a headlight lens restorer.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Start off by washing the headlights and drying them.\", \"描述\": \"This should be done in the shade.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Apply the restorer in a small amount to a cotton towel and work it in deep small circles in a small area of your lens.\", \"描述\": \"It should dry as you keep working it in.\\nRepeat the process in the same spot and as it is dry, use a clean spot of the towel to buff away all remaining compound.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Now that you like the results, repeat the process to the entire headlight, keeping your working area small.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"If you were not happy with the result, you have to move on to method 2.\", \"描述\": \"\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Sandpaper and Clear Coat Spray Paint\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Get what you will need.\", \"描述\": \"Method 2 requires wet/dry sandpaper (800grit & 1500grit), a spray bottle filled with clean water, dry cotton towels, and a clear coat spray paint that offers UV protection.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Wash your headlights.\", \"描述\": \"Once clean, spray a mist of water on the 800 grit paper and start working in a light/soft slow circle motion on one headlight. *keep the paper wet at all times and spray the lens to clear off the mess.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Repeat the process on the same lens with the 1500 grit paper.\", \"描述\": \"Wash the lens off and let it dry. It will look even worse than before. Once its fully dry, spray it in an even light coat of the clear spray paint following the instructions on the can. Remember to cover your car's paint and all areas that may get paint overspray on them. Once the clear is dry, you can compare your brighter lens to your old one. Everyone says to just repeat the process on the other lens, but this is you chance to compare and decide if you want to replace or restore. It also gives you the bragging rights and ability to show loved ones the difference and what you can do.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Wear a protective mask when using spray paint.\\n\", \"Do not do this in a windy condition or in direct sunlight.\\n\", \"Allow the clear paint to dry overnight before driving in the rain or going through a car wash.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Do not use spray paint around a heat source, sparks, open flame, or in a closed garage.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
6,989 |
How to Brighten a Room After Painting It Too Dark
|
1. Adding Light
1-1. Take down or change curtains.
Your first step after painting should be to evaluate the curtains and blinds you have in the room. Curtains, blinds, and other window treatments have the effect of darkening a room. By making small changes, you’ll bring more light into your dark room.
Remove fabric valances to allow more light in.
Take down curtains if they’re limiting the light that can come in.
Replace dark colored blinds with light colored blinds.
Keep your curtains or blinds open to allow a lot of natural light to enter the room.
1-2. Install more light fixtures.
The simplest way to brighten a dark room is by installing more light fixtures. Placed appropriately, your light fixtures will temper your dark paint and help you create an airy feel.
Have an electrician install recessed lighting, if you want.
Use desk or table lamps to add more light.
Add free standing lights to the darkest areas of your room.
1-3. Use light to accent dark areas of the room.
If you have a part of the room that is particularly dark, like an accent wall, you can focus your light there. This will temper the darkness of that part of the room.
Place a free-standing light near an accent wall.
If you have “eyeball” recessed lighting, point it toward the dark area of the room.
1-4. Use lightbulbs that give off white light.
Another way to brighten a room is to control the type of light your light fixtures give off. While traditional incandescent lightbulbs give off a yellow or goldish light, other types of lights spread a brighter and whiter light.
Use LED light bulbs.
Pick incandescent or other lights that are labeled “white” or “bright.”
Choose the brightest bulbs your fixture can safely handle. For example, if the fixture can take a 100- watt bulb, don’t use a 60-watt bulb in it.
2. Focusing on Furniture
2-1. Arrange the furniture so the room seems open and airy.
While it may not seem like much, by simply arranging your furniture a certain way, you’ll be able to create a more open and airy feel in the room. This is important, as furniture has the largest footprint and therefore exerts the most influence on a room’s character.
Move furniture away from a dark accent wall.
Make sure the room is open from the entry way. For example, wherever someone enters the room, they should be able to walk straight into the middle of it, instead of being blocked by a table or couch.
Don’t cluster too many pieces of furniture in one part of the room. For example, avoid placing an arm chair and side table next to a book case.
2-2. Swap dark furniture for light furniture.
If you have dark furniture in the room, consider switching it out for lighter furniture. The lighter furniture will temper the darkness of the room and create a brighter and more airy feeling.
If you have dark wood furniture, replace it with white or light wood colored furniture.
If you can’t swap furniture, consider changing small things. For example, you may be able to get a lighter couch cover for your couch. You might also consider getting a bright accent pillow for the couch.
2-3. Remove some furniture.
You may also be able to remove certain pieces of furniture from the room. By doing this, you’ll open the room up and create a more free and flowing feel.
Make sure to focus on dark pieces of furniture, if you can.
Try not to put too many pieces of furniture against your walls. Instead, make sure to keep large sections of wall open.
If you have a dark part of the room, try to keep dark furniture out of it. For example, if there is a part of the room that is not well-lit, don’t put a dark brown chair there.
3. Changing Accessories
3-1. Remove dark colored accessories.
Dark accessories have the effect of intensifying and highlighting dark paint. By getting rid of dark colored accessories, you’ll make a step toward brightening the room.
Remove accessories that are darker than your wall color.
If possible, replace dark accessories with lighter ones. For example, if you have a black radio, remove it and use a white or silver one instead.
Use rugs to brighten the room. For example, if you have dark rugs, remove them or replace them with lighter ones. If you have a dark floor, add a light rug to the room.
3-2. Declutter the room.
By removing clutter or other objects that fill the room, you’ll create the illusion that the room is larger or more spacious. Ultimately, the room will appear lighter, brighter, and more open.
Make sure you don’t have too many things hanging on your wall. For instance, you shouldn’t group more than 4 or 6 pieces of artwork together. In addition, if your artwork is dark, you should consider removing some of it.
Use file cabinets, bookshelves, desks, drawers, or other organizers to declutter and organize things in the room. For example, if you have a lot of books stacked throughout the room, place them all on a small bookshelf.
If you have an excessive number of decorative pieces, decrease the number.
Clean off coffee tables, other tables, and pieces of furniture of paper and other clutter.
3-3. Use mirrors or crystals.
Depending on the room, you may be able to put up a few mirrors or crystals to lighten and open the room. They will give the appearance that a room is larger and brighter place than it is.
Crystals will reflect light throughout the room. Consider a crystal vase or a similar accessory.
Mirrors work well in dressing rooms, bedrooms, foyers, and hallways. For example, position a mirror opposite of a window to reflect light throughout the room.
In most cases, you’ll only be able to use one mirror per room.
If you install a framed mirror, make sure the frame is not a dark color.
4. Painting and Remodeling
4-1. Paint the ceiling.
By painting the ceiling bright white, you'll temper the darkness of the walls. Ultimately, painting the ceiling will help complete the transformation you initiated when you painted in the first place.
Use flat white ceiling paint to paint the ceiling.
If the ceiling is painted another color, or is bare wood, make sure to prime it before painting it.
4-2. Use a light or bright color on the room's trim.
By repainting the room's trim a bright color, you'll be able to lighten the room up.
Many people rely on bright white trim paint to lighten up a room.
depending on the color scheme of the room, you may also be able to use bright blues, greens, or other colors.
Trim usually includes the baseboard, door and window framing, chair rails, and crown molding.
4-3. Change windows or doors.
You may also be able to substantially brighten the room by changing a window or a door. Ultimately, these changes should focus on bringing more light into the room and making the room appear more open and airy.
Replace any foggy windows.
Add a glass door. Clouded glass doors are especially appropriate for master bathrooms.
4-4. Add an accent wall.
One of the easiest ways to brighten a room is with an accent wall. By changing just one of the four walls in a room, you'll add new character and temper the darkness of the other walls.
Consider repainting one wall a lighter color. For instance, this could work well on a wall with windows or with a door.
Think about using wallpaper to brighten one wall or a section of wall. For instance, if you have a recessed area in a parlor, foyer, or entertaining area, you could wallpaper it to add some brightness.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:58:44",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Adding Light\\n1-1. Take down or change curtains.\\nYour first step after painting should be to evaluate the curtains and blinds you have in the room. Curtains, blinds, and other window treatments have the effect of darkening a room. By making small changes, you’ll bring more light into your dark room.\\nRemove fabric valances to allow more light in.\\nTake down curtains if they’re limiting the light that can come in.\\nReplace dark colored blinds with light colored blinds.\\nKeep your curtains or blinds open to allow a lot of natural light to enter the room.\\n1-2. Install more light fixtures.\\nThe simplest way to brighten a dark room is by installing more light fixtures. Placed appropriately, your light fixtures will temper your dark paint and help you create an airy feel.\\nHave an electrician install recessed lighting, if you want.\\nUse desk or table lamps to add more light.\\nAdd free standing lights to the darkest areas of your room.\\n1-3. Use light to accent dark areas of the room.\\nIf you have a part of the room that is particularly dark, like an accent wall, you can focus your light there. This will temper the darkness of that part of the room.\\nPlace a free-standing light near an accent wall.\\nIf you have “eyeball” recessed lighting, point it toward the dark area of the room.\\n1-4. Use lightbulbs that give off white light.\\nAnother way to brighten a room is to control the type of light your light fixtures give off. While traditional incandescent lightbulbs give off a yellow or goldish light, other types of lights spread a brighter and whiter light.\\nUse LED light bulbs.\\nPick incandescent or other lights that are labeled “white” or “bright.”\\nChoose the brightest bulbs your fixture can safely handle. For example, if the fixture can take a 100- watt bulb, don’t use a 60-watt bulb in it.\\n2. Focusing on Furniture\\n2-1. Arrange the furniture so the room seems open and airy.\\nWhile it may not seem like much, by simply arranging your furniture a certain way, you’ll be able to create a more open and airy feel in the room. This is important, as furniture has the largest footprint and therefore exerts the most influence on a room’s character.\\nMove furniture away from a dark accent wall.\\nMake sure the room is open from the entry way. For example, wherever someone enters the room, they should be able to walk straight into the middle of it, instead of being blocked by a table or couch.\\nDon’t cluster too many pieces of furniture in one part of the room. For example, avoid placing an arm chair and side table next to a book case.\\n2-2. Swap dark furniture for light furniture.\\nIf you have dark furniture in the room, consider switching it out for lighter furniture. The lighter furniture will temper the darkness of the room and create a brighter and more airy feeling.\\nIf you have dark wood furniture, replace it with white or light wood colored furniture.\\nIf you can’t swap furniture, consider changing small things. For example, you may be able to get a lighter couch cover for your couch. You might also consider getting a bright accent pillow for the couch.\\n2-3. Remove some furniture.\\nYou may also be able to remove certain pieces of furniture from the room. By doing this, you’ll open the room up and create a more free and flowing feel.\\nMake sure to focus on dark pieces of furniture, if you can.\\nTry not to put too many pieces of furniture against your walls. Instead, make sure to keep large sections of wall open.\\nIf you have a dark part of the room, try to keep dark furniture out of it. For example, if there is a part of the room that is not well-lit, don’t put a dark brown chair there.\\n3. Changing Accessories\\n3-1. Remove dark colored accessories.\\nDark accessories have the effect of intensifying and highlighting dark paint. By getting rid of dark colored accessories, you’ll make a step toward brightening the room.\\nRemove accessories that are darker than your wall color.\\nIf possible, replace dark accessories with lighter ones. For example, if you have a black radio, remove it and use a white or silver one instead.\\nUse rugs to brighten the room. For example, if you have dark rugs, remove them or replace them with lighter ones. If you have a dark floor, add a light rug to the room.\\n3-2. Declutter the room.\\nBy removing clutter or other objects that fill the room, you’ll create the illusion that the room is larger or more spacious. Ultimately, the room will appear lighter, brighter, and more open.\\nMake sure you don’t have too many things hanging on your wall. For instance, you shouldn’t group more than 4 or 6 pieces of artwork together. In addition, if your artwork is dark, you should consider removing some of it.\\nUse file cabinets, bookshelves, desks, drawers, or other organizers to declutter and organize things in the room. For example, if you have a lot of books stacked throughout the room, place them all on a small bookshelf.\\nIf you have an excessive number of decorative pieces, decrease the number.\\nClean off coffee tables, other tables, and pieces of furniture of paper and other clutter.\\n3-3. Use mirrors or crystals.\\nDepending on the room, you may be able to put up a few mirrors or crystals to lighten and open the room. They will give the appearance that a room is larger and brighter place than it is.\\nCrystals will reflect light throughout the room. Consider a crystal vase or a similar accessory.\\nMirrors work well in dressing rooms, bedrooms, foyers, and hallways. For example, position a mirror opposite of a window to reflect light throughout the room.\\nIn most cases, you’ll only be able to use one mirror per room.\\nIf you install a framed mirror, make sure the frame is not a dark color.\\n4. Painting and Remodeling\\n4-1. Paint the ceiling.\\nBy painting the ceiling bright white, you'll temper the darkness of the walls. Ultimately, painting the ceiling will help complete the transformation you initiated when you painted in the first place.\\nUse flat white ceiling paint to paint the ceiling.\\nIf the ceiling is painted another color, or is bare wood, make sure to prime it before painting it.\\n4-2. Use a light or bright color on the room's trim.\\nBy repainting the room's trim a bright color, you'll be able to lighten the room up.\\nMany people rely on bright white trim paint to lighten up a room.\\ndepending on the color scheme of the room, you may also be able to use bright blues, greens, or other colors.\\nTrim usually includes the baseboard, door and window framing, chair rails, and crown molding.\\n4-3. Change windows or doors.\\nYou may also be able to substantially brighten the room by changing a window or a door. Ultimately, these changes should focus on bringing more light into the room and making the room appear more open and airy.\\nReplace any foggy windows.\\nAdd a glass door. Clouded glass doors are especially appropriate for master bathrooms.\\n4-4. Add an accent wall.\\nOne of the easiest ways to brighten a room is with an accent wall. By changing just one of the four walls in a room, you'll add new character and temper the darkness of the other walls.\\nConsider repainting one wall a lighter color. For instance, this could work well on a wall with windows or with a door.\\nThink about using wallpaper to brighten one wall or a section of wall. For instance, if you have a recessed area in a parlor, foyer, or entertaining area, you could wallpaper it to add some brightness.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"There are many ways to brighten a room after you’ve painted it too dark. Ultimately, though, the steps you take will depend on your budget, your taste, and how much you really want to alter the room. Some things you can do include adding light, changing accessories, and making changes to the furniture you use in the room. In the end, you’ll be able to brighten the room and create a more open and airy feeling.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Adding Light\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Take down or change curtains.\", \"描述\": \"Your first step after painting should be to evaluate the curtains and blinds you have in the room. Curtains, blinds, and other window treatments have the effect of darkening a room. By making small changes, you’ll bring more light into your dark room.\\nRemove fabric valances to allow more light in.\\nTake down curtains if they’re limiting the light that can come in.\\nReplace dark colored blinds with light colored blinds.\\nKeep your curtains or blinds open to allow a lot of natural light to enter the room.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Install more light fixtures.\", \"描述\": \"The simplest way to brighten a dark room is by installing more light fixtures. Placed appropriately, your light fixtures will temper your dark paint and help you create an airy feel.\\nHave an electrician install recessed lighting, if you want.\\nUse desk or table lamps to add more light.\\nAdd free standing lights to the darkest areas of your room.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Use light to accent dark areas of the room.\", \"描述\": \"If you have a part of the room that is particularly dark, like an accent wall, you can focus your light there. This will temper the darkness of that part of the room.\\nPlace a free-standing light near an accent wall.\\nIf you have “eyeball” recessed lighting, point it toward the dark area of the room.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Use lightbulbs that give off white light.\", \"描述\": \"Another way to brighten a room is to control the type of light your light fixtures give off. While traditional incandescent lightbulbs give off a yellow or goldish light, other types of lights spread a brighter and whiter light.\\nUse LED light bulbs.\\nPick incandescent or other lights that are labeled “white” or “bright.”\\nChoose the brightest bulbs your fixture can safely handle. For example, if the fixture can take a 100- watt bulb, don’t use a 60-watt bulb in it.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Focusing on Furniture\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Arrange the furniture so the room seems open and airy.\", \"描述\": \"While it may not seem like much, by simply arranging your furniture a certain way, you’ll be able to create a more open and airy feel in the room. This is important, as furniture has the largest footprint and therefore exerts the most influence on a room’s character.\\nMove furniture away from a dark accent wall.\\nMake sure the room is open from the entry way. For example, wherever someone enters the room, they should be able to walk straight into the middle of it, instead of being blocked by a table or couch.\\nDon’t cluster too many pieces of furniture in one part of the room. For example, avoid placing an arm chair and side table next to a book case.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Swap dark furniture for light furniture.\", \"描述\": \"If you have dark furniture in the room, consider switching it out for lighter furniture. The lighter furniture will temper the darkness of the room and create a brighter and more airy feeling.\\nIf you have dark wood furniture, replace it with white or light wood colored furniture.\\nIf you can’t swap furniture, consider changing small things. For example, you may be able to get a lighter couch cover for your couch. You might also consider getting a bright accent pillow for the couch.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Remove some furniture.\", \"描述\": \"You may also be able to remove certain pieces of furniture from the room. By doing this, you’ll open the room up and create a more free and flowing feel.\\nMake sure to focus on dark pieces of furniture, if you can.\\nTry not to put too many pieces of furniture against your walls. Instead, make sure to keep large sections of wall open.\\nIf you have a dark part of the room, try to keep dark furniture out of it. For example, if there is a part of the room that is not well-lit, don’t put a dark brown chair there.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Changing Accessories\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Remove dark colored accessories.\", \"描述\": \"Dark accessories have the effect of intensifying and highlighting dark paint. By getting rid of dark colored accessories, you’ll make a step toward brightening the room.\\nRemove accessories that are darker than your wall color.\\nIf possible, replace dark accessories with lighter ones. For example, if you have a black radio, remove it and use a white or silver one instead.\\nUse rugs to brighten the room. For example, if you have dark rugs, remove them or replace them with lighter ones. If you have a dark floor, add a light rug to the room.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Declutter the room.\", \"描述\": \"By removing clutter or other objects that fill the room, you’ll create the illusion that the room is larger or more spacious. Ultimately, the room will appear lighter, brighter, and more open.\\nMake sure you don’t have too many things hanging on your wall. For instance, you shouldn’t group more than 4 or 6 pieces of artwork together. In addition, if your artwork is dark, you should consider removing some of it.\\nUse file cabinets, bookshelves, desks, drawers, or other organizers to declutter and organize things in the room. For example, if you have a lot of books stacked throughout the room, place them all on a small bookshelf.\\nIf you have an excessive number of decorative pieces, decrease the number.\\nClean off coffee tables, other tables, and pieces of furniture of paper and other clutter.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Use mirrors or crystals.\", \"描述\": \"Depending on the room, you may be able to put up a few mirrors or crystals to lighten and open the room. They will give the appearance that a room is larger and brighter place than it is.\\nCrystals will reflect light throughout the room. Consider a crystal vase or a similar accessory.\\nMirrors work well in dressing rooms, bedrooms, foyers, and hallways. For example, position a mirror opposite of a window to reflect light throughout the room.\\nIn most cases, you’ll only be able to use one mirror per room.\\nIf you install a framed mirror, make sure the frame is not a dark color.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Painting and Remodeling\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Paint the ceiling.\", \"描述\": \"By painting the ceiling bright white, you'll temper the darkness of the walls. Ultimately, painting the ceiling will help complete the transformation you initiated when you painted in the first place.\\nUse flat white ceiling paint to paint the ceiling.\\nIf the ceiling is painted another color, or is bare wood, make sure to prime it before painting it.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Use a light or bright color on the room's trim.\", \"描述\": \"By repainting the room's trim a bright color, you'll be able to lighten the room up.\\nMany people rely on bright white trim paint to lighten up a room.\\ndepending on the color scheme of the room, you may also be able to use bright blues, greens, or other colors.\\nTrim usually includes the baseboard, door and window framing, chair rails, and crown molding.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Change windows or doors.\", \"描述\": \"You may also be able to substantially brighten the room by changing a window or a door. Ultimately, these changes should focus on bringing more light into the room and making the room appear more open and airy.\\nReplace any foggy windows.\\nAdd a glass door. Clouded glass doors are especially appropriate for master bathrooms.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Add an accent wall.\", \"描述\": \"One of the easiest ways to brighten a room is with an accent wall. By changing just one of the four walls in a room, you'll add new character and temper the darkness of the other walls.\\nConsider repainting one wall a lighter color. For instance, this could work well on a wall with windows or with a door.\\nThink about using wallpaper to brighten one wall or a section of wall. For instance, if you have a recessed area in a parlor, foyer, or entertaining area, you could wallpaper it to add some brightness.\"}]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
6,990 |
How to Brine Chicken
|
1. Making a Wet Brine
1-1. Pour some water into a large bowl, up to a gallon.
The bowl will need to be large enough to submerge all of the chicken you are cooking, but also able to fit into your refrigerator. Fill the bowl with enough water to cover the chicken completely. Consider using warm water as you will be dissolving some solids into solution.
1-2. Add 3/4 cup of salt for every gallon of water.
All brine contains salt, as it is necessary to force the water into the meat's cells. The amount of salt used can vary greatly, but start by adding 3/4 cup of kosher salt per gallon of water (46 ml of salt per liter of water). Stir the salt into the water to dissolve it.
1-3. Add sugar to the water.
Sugar, while not required in a brine, is a useful ingredient to brown the skin. Adding sugar to a brine will increase the amount of caramelization achieved when cooking the chicken, regardless of cooking method. Try adding the same amount of sugar as salt. You can use any type of sugar, including white, brown, turbinado, or even molasses or honey. Stir the water to dissolve the sugar.
1-4. Add any other desired seasonings to the brine.
You can also add other ingredients to your brine to season the chicken. Peppercorns, fresh herbs, and fruit juices are all options for seasoning a brine. Some great ingredients to mix and match include:
Add aromatics such as: 2-4 cloves of garlic (crushed with a knife), bay leaves, a handful thyme, sage, or rosemary sprigs, 2-3 tablespoons uncracked peppercorns, parsley, juice from 1-2 large lemons or oranges, bay leaves, or 1-2 tablespoons of mustard, cumin, or coriander seeds.
Mix 4 12-ounce cans beer (lager, like Budweiser), 1 cup kosher salt, 3/4 cup light-brown sugar, Small handful of thyme sprigs, 5 bay leaves, 1 tablespoon cracked black pepper, and 6 cups ice in a large saucepot.
1 small onion, thinly sliced, 4 garlic cloves, smashed with the flat side of a knife, 1 teaspoon vegetable oil, 1 cup Kosher salt, 5 or 6 branches rosemary, 1 liter water, juice of 1 lemon.
1-5. Boil your brine mixture before adding chicken if you have added seasonings.
Otherwise, the flavors won't penetrate the chicken. Add all ingredients (salt, sugar, water, seasonings etc.) and bring to a boil for approximately 1 minute. Allow to cool completely before moving on.
1-6. Place the chicken into the brining solution.
Make sure that the chicken is fully submerged in the brine. You can use a brine for either a whole chicken or for smaller pieces of chicken; the process is the same either way.
1-7. Place the brine in the refrigerator and let it soak.
Place the entire bowl into the refrigerator, covering it with plastic wrap. Let the chicken soak in the brining solution for several hours. For small pieces, 1 or 2 hours is sufficient, while 8 to12 hours is ideal for a whole chicken. If you can't spare that much time, a brine will still impart flavor and improve tenderness if used for only a short period of time, at least 2 hours.
Never brine chicken at room temperature, as this can lead to bacteria growth.
1-8. Remove the chicken from the brine.
Take the chicken out of the brining solution and pat off the excess water before cooking. Dispose of the brining solution by pouring it down the drain.
2. Making a Dry Brine
2-1. Know that dry brines keep your chicken flavorful and the skin extra crispy.
While wet brines are the traditional way to prep a roast chicken, many chefs are starting to experiment with dry brines instead, which lead to a more robust texture. The salt draws out moisture, which dissolves the salt into a thin, natural wet brine that the chicken then reabsorbs.
Use course sea salt or kosher whenever possible for a dry brine. Fine-grained salts, like table salt, will coat too much of the chicken, dissolve too quickly, and make the final roast taste too salty.
2-2. Pat the chicken dry.
Use a paper towel to get as much moisture off the outside of the chicken as you can. You do not have to rub it down or squeeze water out, a simple pat-down will do.
2-3. Mix your dry brine in a small bowl before applying.
Dry brines are simply massaged into the chicken and are made almost completely of salt. That said, you can mix in other spices and flavors as well. Start with roughly 1 teaspoon of Kosher salt for every pound of chicken you have (4lb chicken, 4 teaspoons salt), then add any of the following spices that you want:
2 tsp cracked black pepper.
1 tsp paprika, chili powder, or cayenne
1 tsp rosemary or thyme
1-2 tsp garlic powder
2-4. Massage the salt evenly into every side of the chicken.
Rub the top, bottom, inside, and outside of the chicken with your dry brine. Use a little extra salt on thicker parts, like thighs and breasts.
You want an even, generous coating of salt. The whole chicken shouldn't be coated in salt, but there should be a fair amount of kernels on everything.
You may need an extra 1/2 teaspoon of salt to complete the brine.
2-5. Cover the chicken and let it refrigerate between 2 and 24 hours.
The longer you let the chicken brine, the better the results. Still, if you are in a hurry then you should see some results after two hours.
Aim for an overnight brining, at the very least. Two hours will work, but it will not be incredibly effective. The longer you let your chicken brine, the better. Try not to exceed 24 hours, however.
2-6. Remove the chicken and pat it dry.
There should not be much excess moisture on the chicken, and all the salt should be dissolved. Still, pat down any extra moisture or wet areas with a paper towel if you see them. When you're done you're ready to get the chicken in the oven and add any extra flavors.
Try stuffing lemon wedges, garlic gloves, and springs of herbs in the chest cavity or between the legs and wings for added flavors.
3. Roasting Your Chicken
3-1. Consider butterflying the meat for crispier skin and moister breast meat.
Roast chickens are notoriously hard to keep moist, especially where the breast meat is concerned. Butterflying is when you cut and split the chicken, providing a more even cooking surface for optimum crispiness. This is best done before brining, but can be done afterward as well. To butterfly a whole chicken:
Use a sharp knife or kitchen shears to cut out the spine of the chicken. This is the long bone in the center of the chicken on the opposite side as the breast meat.
Place the chicken breast-side up on a cutting board.
Use the heel of your hand to press straight into the center of the breastbone. You'll hear a crack and the chicken will flatten down.
Lightly brush the entire top surface with olive oil.
3-2. Preheat your oven to 500°F with a rack in the middle of the oven.
Make sure there are no other racks above the middle one. Get out a roasting or baking pan and place your chicken in the center.
3-3. Add any aromatics you want to the chicken.
Aromatics, like herbs and lemon, add flavor to your roast. Squeeze the juice of a large lemon on the chicken, add sprigs of rosemary or thyme between the wings and thighs, or crack some black pepper on top of the breasts.
If the chicken is whole, stuff lemon slices, garlic cloves, and herbs into the cavity in the middle of the chicken to your liking.
3-4. Place the chicken in the oven, basting every 10-12 minutes.
Basting is taking the hot oil and juice from the pan and spreading them on top of the chicken. This helps the chicken stay moist and gets the skin nice and crispy. Use a baster or a cooking brush to reapply the liquid from the pan on the chicken. Try not to leave the oven open for too long as you work -- this causes the heat to drop too quickly and slows cooking.
3-5. Cook the chicken for 45 minutes, or until a meat thermometer in the breast reads 150°F.
Breast meat is best at this temperature, and thigh meat needs to be 170°F to be safe. If the outsides start to darken before the insides are fully cooked, lower the oven temperature to 450°F.
3-6. Let the chicken stand before cutting into it.
You need to let the chicken rest, otherwise all the juice will leave the meat when you cut into it. Set the chicken aside on a cutting board and tent it loosely with aluminum foil. After 5-6 minutes, you can remove the foil, cut into the chicken, and start eating.
Tips
The amount of time the chicken will cook will depend on its size, so start checking smaller chickens (4lbs or so) around 35 minutes.
Warnings
Using a meat thermometer is essential to prevent the risk of food poisoning.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:58:45",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Making a Wet Brine\\n1-1. Pour some water into a large bowl, up to a gallon.\\nThe bowl will need to be large enough to submerge all of the chicken you are cooking, but also able to fit into your refrigerator. Fill the bowl with enough water to cover the chicken completely. Consider using warm water as you will be dissolving some solids into solution.\\n1-2. Add 3/4 cup of salt for every gallon of water.\\nAll brine contains salt, as it is necessary to force the water into the meat's cells. The amount of salt used can vary greatly, but start by adding 3/4 cup of kosher salt per gallon of water (46 ml of salt per liter of water). Stir the salt into the water to dissolve it.\\n1-3. Add sugar to the water.\\nSugar, while not required in a brine, is a useful ingredient to brown the skin. Adding sugar to a brine will increase the amount of caramelization achieved when cooking the chicken, regardless of cooking method. Try adding the same amount of sugar as salt. You can use any type of sugar, including white, brown, turbinado, or even molasses or honey. Stir the water to dissolve the sugar.\\n1-4. Add any other desired seasonings to the brine.\\nYou can also add other ingredients to your brine to season the chicken. Peppercorns, fresh herbs, and fruit juices are all options for seasoning a brine. Some great ingredients to mix and match include:\\nAdd aromatics such as: 2-4 cloves of garlic (crushed with a knife), bay leaves, a handful thyme, sage, or rosemary sprigs, 2-3 tablespoons uncracked peppercorns, parsley, juice from 1-2 large lemons or oranges, bay leaves, or 1-2 tablespoons of mustard, cumin, or coriander seeds.\\n\\n Mix 4 12-ounce cans beer (lager, like Budweiser), 1 cup kosher salt, 3/4 cup light-brown sugar, Small handful of thyme sprigs, 5 bay leaves, 1 tablespoon cracked black pepper, and 6 cups ice in a large saucepot.\\n 1 small onion, thinly sliced, 4 garlic cloves, smashed with the flat side of a knife, 1 teaspoon vegetable oil, 1 cup Kosher salt, 5 or 6 branches rosemary, 1 liter water, juice of 1 lemon.\\n1-5. Boil your brine mixture before adding chicken if you have added seasonings.\\nOtherwise, the flavors won't penetrate the chicken. Add all ingredients (salt, sugar, water, seasonings etc.) and bring to a boil for approximately 1 minute. Allow to cool completely before moving on.\\n1-6. Place the chicken into the brining solution.\\nMake sure that the chicken is fully submerged in the brine. You can use a brine for either a whole chicken or for smaller pieces of chicken; the process is the same either way.\\n1-7. Place the brine in the refrigerator and let it soak.\\nPlace the entire bowl into the refrigerator, covering it with plastic wrap. Let the chicken soak in the brining solution for several hours. For small pieces, 1 or 2 hours is sufficient, while 8 to12 hours is ideal for a whole chicken. If you can't spare that much time, a brine will still impart flavor and improve tenderness if used for only a short period of time, at least 2 hours.\\nNever brine chicken at room temperature, as this can lead to bacteria growth.\\n1-8. Remove the chicken from the brine.\\nTake the chicken out of the brining solution and pat off the excess water before cooking. Dispose of the brining solution by pouring it down the drain.\\n2. Making a Dry Brine\\n2-1. Know that dry brines keep your chicken flavorful and the skin extra crispy.\\nWhile wet brines are the traditional way to prep a roast chicken, many chefs are starting to experiment with dry brines instead, which lead to a more robust texture. The salt draws out moisture, which dissolves the salt into a thin, natural wet brine that the chicken then reabsorbs.\\nUse course sea salt or kosher whenever possible for a dry brine. Fine-grained salts, like table salt, will coat too much of the chicken, dissolve too quickly, and make the final roast taste too salty.\\n2-2. Pat the chicken dry.\\nUse a paper towel to get as much moisture off the outside of the chicken as you can. You do not have to rub it down or squeeze water out, a simple pat-down will do.\\n2-3. Mix your dry brine in a small bowl before applying.\\nDry brines are simply massaged into the chicken and are made almost completely of salt. That said, you can mix in other spices and flavors as well. Start with roughly 1 teaspoon of Kosher salt for every pound of chicken you have (4lb chicken, 4 teaspoons salt), then add any of the following spices that you want:\\n2 tsp cracked black pepper.\\n1 tsp paprika, chili powder, or cayenne\\n1 tsp rosemary or thyme\\n1-2 tsp garlic powder\\n2-4. Massage the salt evenly into every side of the chicken.\\nRub the top, bottom, inside, and outside of the chicken with your dry brine. Use a little extra salt on thicker parts, like thighs and breasts.\\nYou want an even, generous coating of salt. The whole chicken shouldn't be coated in salt, but there should be a fair amount of kernels on everything.\\nYou may need an extra 1/2 teaspoon of salt to complete the brine.\\n2-5. Cover the chicken and let it refrigerate between 2 and 24 hours.\\nThe longer you let the chicken brine, the better the results. Still, if you are in a hurry then you should see some results after two hours.\\nAim for an overnight brining, at the very least. Two hours will work, but it will not be incredibly effective. The longer you let your chicken brine, the better. Try not to exceed 24 hours, however.\\n2-6. Remove the chicken and pat it dry.\\nThere should not be much excess moisture on the chicken, and all the salt should be dissolved. Still, pat down any extra moisture or wet areas with a paper towel if you see them. When you're done you're ready to get the chicken in the oven and add any extra flavors.\\nTry stuffing lemon wedges, garlic gloves, and springs of herbs in the chest cavity or between the legs and wings for added flavors.\\n3. Roasting Your Chicken\\n3-1. Consider butterflying the meat for crispier skin and moister breast meat.\\nRoast chickens are notoriously hard to keep moist, especially where the breast meat is concerned. Butterflying is when you cut and split the chicken, providing a more even cooking surface for optimum crispiness. This is best done before brining, but can be done afterward as well. To butterfly a whole chicken:\\nUse a sharp knife or kitchen shears to cut out the spine of the chicken. This is the long bone in the center of the chicken on the opposite side as the breast meat.\\nPlace the chicken breast-side up on a cutting board.\\nUse the heel of your hand to press straight into the center of the breastbone. You'll hear a crack and the chicken will flatten down.\\nLightly brush the entire top surface with olive oil.\\n3-2. Preheat your oven to 500°F with a rack in the middle of the oven.\\nMake sure there are no other racks above the middle one. Get out a roasting or baking pan and place your chicken in the center.\\n3-3. Add any aromatics you want to the chicken.\\nAromatics, like herbs and lemon, add flavor to your roast. Squeeze the juice of a large lemon on the chicken, add sprigs of rosemary or thyme between the wings and thighs, or crack some black pepper on top of the breasts.\\nIf the chicken is whole, stuff lemon slices, garlic cloves, and herbs into the cavity in the middle of the chicken to your liking.\\n3-4. Place the chicken in the oven, basting every 10-12 minutes.\\nBasting is taking the hot oil and juice from the pan and spreading them on top of the chicken. This helps the chicken stay moist and gets the skin nice and crispy. Use a baster or a cooking brush to reapply the liquid from the pan on the chicken. Try not to leave the oven open for too long as you work -- this causes the heat to drop too quickly and slows cooking.\\n3-5. Cook the chicken for 45 minutes, or until a meat thermometer in the breast reads 150°F.\\nBreast meat is best at this temperature, and thigh meat needs to be 170°F to be safe. If the outsides start to darken before the insides are fully cooked, lower the oven temperature to 450°F.\\n3-6. Let the chicken stand before cutting into it.\\nYou need to let the chicken rest, otherwise all the juice will leave the meat when you cut into it. Set the chicken aside on a cutting board and tent it loosely with aluminum foil. After 5-6 minutes, you can remove the foil, cut into the chicken, and start eating.\\nTips\\nThe amount of time the chicken will cook will depend on its size, so start checking smaller chickens (4lbs or so) around 35 minutes.\\nWarnings\\nUsing a meat thermometer is essential to prevent the risk of food poisoning.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Brining meats before cooking them is an effective way to increase the moisture and tenderness of the meat before roasting. This is especially important for chicken, which often gets dry in the oven. The process of soaking the meat in salted water causes the chicken to absorb some of the water through osmosis, making it moister when cooked. You can also work with dry brines, which lead to crispy skin and keep the natural moisture in the bird without the hassle of a wet brine.\\n\\n\\nPrep time (Wet): 30 minutes\\nCook time: 8-12 hours (active cooking: 10 minutes)\\nTotal time: 8-12 hours\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Making a Wet Brine\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Pour some water into a large bowl, up to a gallon.\", \"描述\": \"The bowl will need to be large enough to submerge all of the chicken you are cooking, but also able to fit into your refrigerator. Fill the bowl with enough water to cover the chicken completely. Consider using warm water as you will be dissolving some solids into solution.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Add 3/4 cup of salt for every gallon of water.\", \"描述\": \"All brine contains salt, as it is necessary to force the water into the meat's cells. The amount of salt used can vary greatly, but start by adding 3/4 cup of kosher salt per gallon of water (46 ml of salt per liter of water). Stir the salt into the water to dissolve it.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Add sugar to the water.\", \"描述\": \"Sugar, while not required in a brine, is a useful ingredient to brown the skin. Adding sugar to a brine will increase the amount of caramelization achieved when cooking the chicken, regardless of cooking method. Try adding the same amount of sugar as salt. You can use any type of sugar, including white, brown, turbinado, or even molasses or honey. Stir the water to dissolve the sugar.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Add any other desired seasonings to the brine.\", \"描述\": \"You can also add other ingredients to your brine to season the chicken. Peppercorns, fresh herbs, and fruit juices are all options for seasoning a brine. Some great ingredients to mix and match include:\\nAdd aromatics such as: 2-4 cloves of garlic (crushed with a knife), bay leaves, a handful thyme, sage, or rosemary sprigs, 2-3 tablespoons uncracked peppercorns, parsley, juice from 1-2 large lemons or oranges, bay leaves, or 1-2 tablespoons of mustard, cumin, or coriander seeds.\\n\\n Mix 4 12-ounce cans beer (lager, like Budweiser), 1 cup kosher salt, 3/4 cup light-brown sugar, Small handful of thyme sprigs, 5 bay leaves, 1 tablespoon cracked black pepper, and 6 cups ice in a large saucepot.\\n 1 small onion, thinly sliced, 4 garlic cloves, smashed with the flat side of a knife, 1 teaspoon vegetable oil, 1 cup Kosher salt, 5 or 6 branches rosemary, 1 liter water, juice of 1 lemon.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Boil your brine mixture before adding chicken if you have added seasonings.\", \"描述\": \"Otherwise, the flavors won't penetrate the chicken. Add all ingredients (salt, sugar, water, seasonings etc.) and bring to a boil for approximately 1 minute. Allow to cool completely before moving on.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Place the chicken into the brining solution.\", \"描述\": \"Make sure that the chicken is fully submerged in the brine. You can use a brine for either a whole chicken or for smaller pieces of chicken; the process is the same either way.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Place the brine in the refrigerator and let it soak.\", \"描述\": \"Place the entire bowl into the refrigerator, covering it with plastic wrap. Let the chicken soak in the brining solution for several hours. For small pieces, 1 or 2 hours is sufficient, while 8 to12 hours is ideal for a whole chicken. If you can't spare that much time, a brine will still impart flavor and improve tenderness if used for only a short period of time, at least 2 hours.\\nNever brine chicken at room temperature, as this can lead to bacteria growth.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Remove the chicken from the brine.\", \"描述\": \"Take the chicken out of the brining solution and pat off the excess water before cooking. Dispose of the brining solution by pouring it down the drain.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Making a Dry Brine\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Know that dry brines keep your chicken flavorful and the skin extra crispy.\", \"描述\": \"While wet brines are the traditional way to prep a roast chicken, many chefs are starting to experiment with dry brines instead, which lead to a more robust texture. The salt draws out moisture, which dissolves the salt into a thin, natural wet brine that the chicken then reabsorbs.\\nUse course sea salt or kosher whenever possible for a dry brine. Fine-grained salts, like table salt, will coat too much of the chicken, dissolve too quickly, and make the final roast taste too salty.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Pat the chicken dry.\", \"描述\": \"Use a paper towel to get as much moisture off the outside of the chicken as you can. You do not have to rub it down or squeeze water out, a simple pat-down will do.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Mix your dry brine in a small bowl before applying.\", \"描述\": \"Dry brines are simply massaged into the chicken and are made almost completely of salt. That said, you can mix in other spices and flavors as well. Start with roughly 1 teaspoon of Kosher salt for every pound of chicken you have (4lb chicken, 4 teaspoons salt), then add any of the following spices that you want:\\n2 tsp cracked black pepper.\\n1 tsp paprika, chili powder, or cayenne\\n1 tsp rosemary or thyme\\n1-2 tsp garlic powder\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Massage the salt evenly into every side of the chicken.\", \"描述\": \"Rub the top, bottom, inside, and outside of the chicken with your dry brine. Use a little extra salt on thicker parts, like thighs and breasts.\\nYou want an even, generous coating of salt. The whole chicken shouldn't be coated in salt, but there should be a fair amount of kernels on everything.\\nYou may need an extra 1/2 teaspoon of salt to complete the brine.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Cover the chicken and let it refrigerate between 2 and 24 hours.\", \"描述\": \"The longer you let the chicken brine, the better the results. Still, if you are in a hurry then you should see some results after two hours.\\nAim for an overnight brining, at the very least. Two hours will work, but it will not be incredibly effective. The longer you let your chicken brine, the better. Try not to exceed 24 hours, however.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Remove the chicken and pat it dry.\", \"描述\": \"There should not be much excess moisture on the chicken, and all the salt should be dissolved. Still, pat down any extra moisture or wet areas with a paper towel if you see them. When you're done you're ready to get the chicken in the oven and add any extra flavors.\\nTry stuffing lemon wedges, garlic gloves, and springs of herbs in the chest cavity or between the legs and wings for added flavors.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Roasting Your Chicken\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Consider butterflying the meat for crispier skin and moister breast meat.\", \"描述\": \"Roast chickens are notoriously hard to keep moist, especially where the breast meat is concerned. Butterflying is when you cut and split the chicken, providing a more even cooking surface for optimum crispiness. This is best done before brining, but can be done afterward as well. To butterfly a whole chicken:\\nUse a sharp knife or kitchen shears to cut out the spine of the chicken. This is the long bone in the center of the chicken on the opposite side as the breast meat.\\nPlace the chicken breast-side up on a cutting board.\\nUse the heel of your hand to press straight into the center of the breastbone. You'll hear a crack and the chicken will flatten down.\\nLightly brush the entire top surface with olive oil.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Preheat your oven to 500°F with a rack in the middle of the oven.\", \"描述\": \"Make sure there are no other racks above the middle one. Get out a roasting or baking pan and place your chicken in the center.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Add any aromatics you want to the chicken.\", \"描述\": \"Aromatics, like herbs and lemon, add flavor to your roast. Squeeze the juice of a large lemon on the chicken, add sprigs of rosemary or thyme between the wings and thighs, or crack some black pepper on top of the breasts.\\nIf the chicken is whole, stuff lemon slices, garlic cloves, and herbs into the cavity in the middle of the chicken to your liking.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Place the chicken in the oven, basting every 10-12 minutes.\", \"描述\": \"Basting is taking the hot oil and juice from the pan and spreading them on top of the chicken. This helps the chicken stay moist and gets the skin nice and crispy. Use a baster or a cooking brush to reapply the liquid from the pan on the chicken. Try not to leave the oven open for too long as you work -- this causes the heat to drop too quickly and slows cooking.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Cook the chicken for 45 minutes, or until a meat thermometer in the breast reads 150°F.\", \"描述\": \"Breast meat is best at this temperature, and thigh meat needs to be 170°F to be safe. If the outsides start to darken before the insides are fully cooked, lower the oven temperature to 450°F.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Let the chicken stand before cutting into it.\", \"描述\": \"You need to let the chicken rest, otherwise all the juice will leave the meat when you cut into it. Set the chicken aside on a cutting board and tent it loosely with aluminum foil. After 5-6 minutes, you can remove the foil, cut into the chicken, and start eating.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"The amount of time the chicken will cook will depend on its size, so start checking smaller chickens (4lbs or so) around 35 minutes.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Using a meat thermometer is essential to prevent the risk of food poisoning.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
6,991 |
How to Brine a Flavorful Chicken Breast: Prep, Cooking, & More
|
1. Making a Basic Brine
1-1. Dissolve 4 tablespoons (60 g) of salt into a quart of water.
Brine is nothing more than salt dissolved in water at its most basic level. A good ratio to start with is 4 tablespoons (60 g) of salt for each quart (0.95 liters) of water, but you can add more to taste if you prefer a saltier brine. Add the salt to a quart of water and stir until it dissolves completely.
Use coarse salt for your brine, like sea salt or kosher salt, for a richer flavor. If you only have table salt, use a quarter less of the total amount of salt per quart.
A quart is enough to brine about 1 1/2 pounds (680 g) of chicken.
1-2. Add 2 tablespoons (30 g) of brown sugar.
Adding sugar to your brine helps the outside of your chicken breasts brown and caramelize when they cook. While your brine water is still warm, add about 2 tablespoons (30 g) of brown sugar to your brine, stirring until the sugar dissolves completely.
Alternatively, other sweeteners like honey, agave syrup, or maple syrup can be used within your brine in equal parts.
1-3. Season your brine with pepper, lemon juice, garlic, and herbs.
The exact seasonings you use will depend on what flavors you want in your chicken. You can use a combination of fresh or dried herbs, garlic, spices, and peppercorns to taste.
For example, a teaspoon (5 g) of black peppercorns, 2-4 peeled and smashed cloves of garlic, a squeeze of fresh lemon juice, and 1 bay leaf per quart of water will add some subtle flavor to your chicken.
1-4. Flavor your brine
If you want your chicken to have a particular flavor once it's cooked, like honey butter or a hot and spicy tang, you can build that flavor in your brine by adding the specific ingredients you desire. There are countless brine recipes in books and online to help you find your go-to brine.
2. Enhancing Your Brine
2-1. Make a honey butter brine.
Use the standard water-to-salt ratio (about 4 tablespoons (60 g) of salt for each quart (0.95 liters of water)) for a sweet brine, perfect for honey-butter chicken. Swap out sugar in favor of an equal amount of honey (2 tablespoons). Season with whole peppercorns and fresh herbs such as thyme and rosemary to taste.
2-2. Add some spice to your brine.
To make a spicy brine that seasons your chicken perfectly, start with about 4 tablespoons (60 g) of salt for each quart (0.95 liters of water) and 2 tablespoons of sugar. Then, add 2-3 seeded jalapeno or habanero peppers, a dash of smoked paprika, garlic cloves, and peppercorns to taste.
2-3. Brine your chicken with beer
If you are going to roast your chicken, start by making a standard brine of 4 tablespoons (60 g) of salt for each quart (0.95 liters of water). Then, add 1 cup (237 ml) of stout beer to your solution. Finish with a couple of dashes of Worcestershire sauce and 2 tablespoons (30 g) of maple syrup or molasses.
2-4. Cool the brine before adding in the chicken.
Never add a warm brine to your chicken. A warm brine creates the perfect environment for bacteria to thrive. Allow your brine to cool until it is room temperature, or pop it in the fridge to help it cool off faster. Alternatively, you can add ice to cool the brine down even quicker.
3. Brining Your Chicken
3-1. Trim fat and tendons off your chicken
Before you brine, prepare your breasts by trimming away any fat or tendons. Fat is typically a white or creamy color and will be around the edges of the breast, while tendons will be tough reddish spots.
Cutting the fat and tendons off your chicken before brining will ensure that it’s tender, delicious, and, most importantly, free from those icky, chewy pieces we hate!
3-2. Put your chicken in a pan or bag.
You can put your chicken in a large, shallow pan or a sealable bag to brine. If you put your chicken in a pan, lay the breasts out side-by-side, ensuring they do not overlap.
3-3. Pour your brine into your container over your chicken.
There should be enough brine to submerge your chicken completely. Seal your bag and roll it lightly to ensure that every crack and crevice of your chicken is enveloped in your delicious brine.
Don't forget to cover your meat with foil or cling wrap if it's in a pan or dish.
3-4. Put your brined chicken in the refrigerator for around 1 hour.
The longer your chicken rests, the juicier and more flavorful it will be when you cook it. Aim to brine your chicken for 1 hour per every 1 pound of meat.
Larger chicken breasts or large quantities of chicken may be brined overnight for a superior flavor and texture.
You can quickly brine your chicken by splitting it up into 1/2 pound (227 g) servings and letting each one soak in its own dish or bag for 1 hour and 30 minutes to 2 hours.
3-5. Remove your chicken and pat it dry.
Once you have brined your chicken, remove it and let it rest on a plate for at least 5 minutes. This allows the excess juices to drain off your chicken breasts. Then, use a paper towel to gently pat away any excess moisture from the breast’s surface.
4. Cooking Your Brined Chicken
4-1. Grill chicken
Grilling brined chicken gives the meat a crispy outside and a tender, juicy inside. Cook your chicken on medium-high heat of 375 to 450°F (190 to 230°C) until the outside of your chicken is golden-brown and the inside is up to a temperature of 165° Fahrenheit (75° Celsius).
Check the chicken's inside with a thermometer to ensure it is fully cooked at 165° Fahrenheit (75° Celsius).
4-2. Try baking tender chicken breasts.
While baked chicken often comes out dry, brined chicken comes out juicy, tender, and flavorful. Preheat your oven to 450°F (230°C) and season the chicken with salt, pepper, and other seasonings of your liking to taste. Then, place the breasts in a greased dish and cook for 20 to 25 minutes, or until your chicken reaches an internal temperature of 165°F (74°C).
You can use a meat thermometer to monitor the internal temperature of your chicken.
If the outside of your chicken cooks too fast, turn the oven temperature down to 400°F (204°C).
4-3. Fry your chicken
Like baking, frying can tend to dry out your chicken, but don't worry! Brining ensures juicy, tender breasts regardless of the cooking method you choose. Batter the chicken in your favorite batter and deep fry in oil that has been heated to about 350°F (176.6°C) for 5 to 7 minutes on each side, depending upon the thickness of your cuts.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:58:45",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Making a Basic Brine\\n1-1. Dissolve 4 tablespoons (60 g) of salt into a quart of water.\\nBrine is nothing more than salt dissolved in water at its most basic level. A good ratio to start with is 4 tablespoons (60 g) of salt for each quart (0.95 liters) of water, but you can add more to taste if you prefer a saltier brine. Add the salt to a quart of water and stir until it dissolves completely.\\nUse coarse salt for your brine, like sea salt or kosher salt, for a richer flavor. If you only have table salt, use a quarter less of the total amount of salt per quart.\\nA quart is enough to brine about 1 1/2 pounds (680 g) of chicken.\\n1-2. Add 2 tablespoons (30 g) of brown sugar.\\nAdding sugar to your brine helps the outside of your chicken breasts brown and caramelize when they cook. While your brine water is still warm, add about 2 tablespoons (30 g) of brown sugar to your brine, stirring until the sugar dissolves completely.\\nAlternatively, other sweeteners like honey, agave syrup, or maple syrup can be used within your brine in equal parts.\\n1-3. Season your brine with pepper, lemon juice, garlic, and herbs.\\nThe exact seasonings you use will depend on what flavors you want in your chicken. You can use a combination of fresh or dried herbs, garlic, spices, and peppercorns to taste.\\nFor example, a teaspoon (5 g) of black peppercorns, 2-4 peeled and smashed cloves of garlic, a squeeze of fresh lemon juice, and 1 bay leaf per quart of water will add some subtle flavor to your chicken.\\n1-4. Flavor your brine\\nIf you want your chicken to have a particular flavor once it's cooked, like honey butter or a hot and spicy tang, you can build that flavor in your brine by adding the specific ingredients you desire. There are countless brine recipes in books and online to help you find your go-to brine.\\n2. Enhancing Your Brine\\n2-1. Make a honey butter brine.\\nUse the standard water-to-salt ratio (about 4 tablespoons (60 g) of salt for each quart (0.95 liters of water)) for a sweet brine, perfect for honey-butter chicken. Swap out sugar in favor of an equal amount of honey (2 tablespoons). Season with whole peppercorns and fresh herbs such as thyme and rosemary to taste.\\n2-2. Add some spice to your brine.\\nTo make a spicy brine that seasons your chicken perfectly, start with about 4 tablespoons (60 g) of salt for each quart (0.95 liters of water) and 2 tablespoons of sugar. Then, add 2-3 seeded jalapeno or habanero peppers, a dash of smoked paprika, garlic cloves, and peppercorns to taste.\\n2-3. Brine your chicken with beer\\nIf you are going to roast your chicken, start by making a standard brine of 4 tablespoons (60 g) of salt for each quart (0.95 liters of water). Then, add 1 cup (237 ml) of stout beer to your solution. Finish with a couple of dashes of Worcestershire sauce and 2 tablespoons (30 g) of maple syrup or molasses.\\n2-4. Cool the brine before adding in the chicken.\\nNever add a warm brine to your chicken. A warm brine creates the perfect environment for bacteria to thrive. Allow your brine to cool until it is room temperature, or pop it in the fridge to help it cool off faster. Alternatively, you can add ice to cool the brine down even quicker.\\n3. Brining Your Chicken\\n3-1. Trim fat and tendons off your chicken\\nBefore you brine, prepare your breasts by trimming away any fat or tendons. Fat is typically a white or creamy color and will be around the edges of the breast, while tendons will be tough reddish spots.\\nCutting the fat and tendons off your chicken before brining will ensure that it’s tender, delicious, and, most importantly, free from those icky, chewy pieces we hate!\\n3-2. Put your chicken in a pan or bag.\\nYou can put your chicken in a large, shallow pan or a sealable bag to brine. If you put your chicken in a pan, lay the breasts out side-by-side, ensuring they do not overlap.\\n3-3. Pour your brine into your container over your chicken.\\nThere should be enough brine to submerge your chicken completely. Seal your bag and roll it lightly to ensure that every crack and crevice of your chicken is enveloped in your delicious brine.\\nDon't forget to cover your meat with foil or cling wrap if it's in a pan or dish.\\n3-4. Put your brined chicken in the refrigerator for around 1 hour.\\nThe longer your chicken rests, the juicier and more flavorful it will be when you cook it. Aim to brine your chicken for 1 hour per every 1 pound of meat.\\nLarger chicken breasts or large quantities of chicken may be brined overnight for a superior flavor and texture.\\nYou can quickly brine your chicken by splitting it up into 1/2 pound (227 g) servings and letting each one soak in its own dish or bag for 1 hour and 30 minutes to 2 hours.\\n3-5. Remove your chicken and pat it dry.\\nOnce you have brined your chicken, remove it and let it rest on a plate for at least 5 minutes. This allows the excess juices to drain off your chicken breasts. Then, use a paper towel to gently pat away any excess moisture from the breast’s surface.\\n4. Cooking Your Brined Chicken\\n4-1. Grill chicken\\nGrilling brined chicken gives the meat a crispy outside and a tender, juicy inside. Cook your chicken on medium-high heat of 375 to 450°F (190 to 230°C) until the outside of your chicken is golden-brown and the inside is up to a temperature of 165° Fahrenheit (75° Celsius).\\nCheck the chicken's inside with a thermometer to ensure it is fully cooked at 165° Fahrenheit (75° Celsius).\\n4-2. Try baking tender chicken breasts.\\nWhile baked chicken often comes out dry, brined chicken comes out juicy, tender, and flavorful. Preheat your oven to 450°F (230°C) and season the chicken with salt, pepper, and other seasonings of your liking to taste. Then, place the breasts in a greased dish and cook for 20 to 25 minutes, or until your chicken reaches an internal temperature of 165°F (74°C).\\nYou can use a meat thermometer to monitor the internal temperature of your chicken.\\nIf the outside of your chicken cooks too fast, turn the oven temperature down to 400°F (204°C).\\n4-3. Fry your chicken\\nLike baking, frying can tend to dry out your chicken, but don't worry! Brining ensures juicy, tender breasts regardless of the cooking method you choose. Batter the chicken in your favorite batter and deep fry in oil that has been heated to about 350°F (176.6°C) for 5 to 7 minutes on each side, depending upon the thickness of your cuts.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Say goodbye to dry chicken forever with the help of a delectable, homemade brine. Brining your chicken before cooking adds flavor and keeps it nice and juicy so you won't have to think twice about ending up with a dry and chewy chicken breast. In this article, we’ll teach you how to make a delectable brine and how to cook your chicken breasts to perfection, so your fabulous meal will be the talk of the town!\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Making a Basic Brine\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Dissolve 4 tablespoons (60 g) of salt into a quart of water.\", \"描述\": \"Brine is nothing more than salt dissolved in water at its most basic level. A good ratio to start with is 4 tablespoons (60 g) of salt for each quart (0.95 liters) of water, but you can add more to taste if you prefer a saltier brine. Add the salt to a quart of water and stir until it dissolves completely.\\nUse coarse salt for your brine, like sea salt or kosher salt, for a richer flavor. If you only have table salt, use a quarter less of the total amount of salt per quart.\\nA quart is enough to brine about 1 1/2 pounds (680 g) of chicken.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Add 2 tablespoons (30 g) of brown sugar.\", \"描述\": \"Adding sugar to your brine helps the outside of your chicken breasts brown and caramelize when they cook. While your brine water is still warm, add about 2 tablespoons (30 g) of brown sugar to your brine, stirring until the sugar dissolves completely.\\nAlternatively, other sweeteners like honey, agave syrup, or maple syrup can be used within your brine in equal parts.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Season your brine with pepper, lemon juice, garlic, and herbs.\", \"描述\": \"The exact seasonings you use will depend on what flavors you want in your chicken. You can use a combination of fresh or dried herbs, garlic, spices, and peppercorns to taste.\\nFor example, a teaspoon (5 g) of black peppercorns, 2-4 peeled and smashed cloves of garlic, a squeeze of fresh lemon juice, and 1 bay leaf per quart of water will add some subtle flavor to your chicken.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Flavor your brine\", \"描述\": \"If you want your chicken to have a particular flavor once it's cooked, like honey butter or a hot and spicy tang, you can build that flavor in your brine by adding the specific ingredients you desire. There are countless brine recipes in books and online to help you find your go-to brine.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Enhancing Your Brine\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Make a honey butter brine.\", \"描述\": \"Use the standard water-to-salt ratio (about 4 tablespoons (60 g) of salt for each quart (0.95 liters of water)) for a sweet brine, perfect for honey-butter chicken. Swap out sugar in favor of an equal amount of honey (2 tablespoons). Season with whole peppercorns and fresh herbs such as thyme and rosemary to taste.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Add some spice to your brine.\", \"描述\": \"To make a spicy brine that seasons your chicken perfectly, start with about 4 tablespoons (60 g) of salt for each quart (0.95 liters of water) and 2 tablespoons of sugar. Then, add 2-3 seeded jalapeno or habanero peppers, a dash of smoked paprika, garlic cloves, and peppercorns to taste.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Brine your chicken with beer\", \"描述\": \"If you are going to roast your chicken, start by making a standard brine of 4 tablespoons (60 g) of salt for each quart (0.95 liters of water). Then, add 1 cup (237 ml) of stout beer to your solution. Finish with a couple of dashes of Worcestershire sauce and 2 tablespoons (30 g) of maple syrup or molasses.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Cool the brine before adding in the chicken.\", \"描述\": \"Never add a warm brine to your chicken. A warm brine creates the perfect environment for bacteria to thrive. Allow your brine to cool until it is room temperature, or pop it in the fridge to help it cool off faster. Alternatively, you can add ice to cool the brine down even quicker.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Brining Your Chicken\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Trim fat and tendons off your chicken\", \"描述\": \"Before you brine, prepare your breasts by trimming away any fat or tendons. Fat is typically a white or creamy color and will be around the edges of the breast, while tendons will be tough reddish spots.\\nCutting the fat and tendons off your chicken before brining will ensure that it’s tender, delicious, and, most importantly, free from those icky, chewy pieces we hate!\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Put your chicken in a pan or bag.\", \"描述\": \"You can put your chicken in a large, shallow pan or a sealable bag to brine. If you put your chicken in a pan, lay the breasts out side-by-side, ensuring they do not overlap.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Pour your brine into your container over your chicken.\", \"描述\": \"There should be enough brine to submerge your chicken completely. Seal your bag and roll it lightly to ensure that every crack and crevice of your chicken is enveloped in your delicious brine.\\nDon't forget to cover your meat with foil or cling wrap if it's in a pan or dish.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Put your brined chicken in the refrigerator for around 1 hour.\", \"描述\": \"The longer your chicken rests, the juicier and more flavorful it will be when you cook it. Aim to brine your chicken for 1 hour per every 1 pound of meat.\\nLarger chicken breasts or large quantities of chicken may be brined overnight for a superior flavor and texture.\\nYou can quickly brine your chicken by splitting it up into 1/2 pound (227 g) servings and letting each one soak in its own dish or bag for 1 hour and 30 minutes to 2 hours.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Remove your chicken and pat it dry.\", \"描述\": \"Once you have brined your chicken, remove it and let it rest on a plate for at least 5 minutes. This allows the excess juices to drain off your chicken breasts. Then, use a paper towel to gently pat away any excess moisture from the breast’s surface.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Cooking Your Brined Chicken\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Grill chicken\", \"描述\": \"Grilling brined chicken gives the meat a crispy outside and a tender, juicy inside. Cook your chicken on medium-high heat of 375 to 450°F (190 to 230°C) until the outside of your chicken is golden-brown and the inside is up to a temperature of 165° Fahrenheit (75° Celsius).\\nCheck the chicken's inside with a thermometer to ensure it is fully cooked at 165° Fahrenheit (75° Celsius).\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Try baking tender chicken breasts.\", \"描述\": \"While baked chicken often comes out dry, brined chicken comes out juicy, tender, and flavorful. Preheat your oven to 450°F (230°C) and season the chicken with salt, pepper, and other seasonings of your liking to taste. Then, place the breasts in a greased dish and cook for 20 to 25 minutes, or until your chicken reaches an internal temperature of 165°F (74°C).\\nYou can use a meat thermometer to monitor the internal temperature of your chicken.\\nIf the outside of your chicken cooks too fast, turn the oven temperature down to 400°F (204°C).\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Fry your chicken\", \"描述\": \"Like baking, frying can tend to dry out your chicken, but don't worry! Brining ensures juicy, tender breasts regardless of the cooking method you choose. Batter the chicken in your favorite batter and deep fry in oil that has been heated to about 350°F (176.6°C) for 5 to 7 minutes on each side, depending upon the thickness of your cuts.\"}]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
6,992 |
How to Brine Meat
|
1. Steps
1-1. Prepare a mixture of three parts salt and one part sugar.
The salt may be kosher or sea salt. The sugar can be any white crystal sugar, but not 10X or confectioner's sugar.
1-2. Dissolve the sugar/salt mixture in water.
The salt to water ratio should be 1:16—for every gallon of water you should have a cup of salt (50-60 grams of salt per litre water). Make enough of the mixture to comfortable cover the meat you wish to brine.
1-3. Add any flavorings you wish.
Sharp liquids (vinegars and citrus juices), whole seeds, and dried herbs and spices work especially well. Thicker liquids such as honey, oil and some sauces will impart fewer flavors unless boiled (see step 4, substep 1). This is also the case with fresh herbs.
1-4. Submerge the meat in brine.
1-5. Store it in a refrigerator or other cooler space.
Cuts of pork, wild game, and larger poultry, such as turkey, can be brined anywhere from 4-12 hours; smaller cuts and birds should be brined for 30 minutes to 2 hours.
If your brine is extensively flavored, or if you do not plan to brine the meat for long, consider bringing the mixture to a fast boil and cooling before starting the brine. This is especially effective for chicken and smaller poultry because brining them for too long will cause the meat to break down.
Tips
You should not rinse raw poultry under that tap as the bacteria then becomes airborne, spreads around the kitchen and can be inhaled. Cooking the meat properly kills all the bacteria.[6]
X
Research source
The best flavored brines are often the simplest. Citrus juice and dried mint will add a nice Mediterranean flavor to chicken, while cracked black pepper and red wine vinegar provide a rich French flair.
Replace all, or part of the sugar with honey or brown sugar.
Warnings
Make sure to completely cool your heated brine before using.
Watch your food closely while cooking it, especially if barbecuing or grilling it. Brining adds sugar to the meat and can cause it to burn prematurely.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:58:45",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Prepare a mixture of three parts salt and one part sugar.\\nThe salt may be kosher or sea salt. The sugar can be any white crystal sugar, but not 10X or confectioner's sugar.\\n1-2. Dissolve the sugar/salt mixture in water.\\nThe salt to water ratio should be 1:16—for every gallon of water you should have a cup of salt (50-60 grams of salt per litre water). Make enough of the mixture to comfortable cover the meat you wish to brine.\\n1-3. Add any flavorings you wish.\\nSharp liquids (vinegars and citrus juices), whole seeds, and dried herbs and spices work especially well. Thicker liquids such as honey, oil and some sauces will impart fewer flavors unless boiled (see step 4, substep 1). This is also the case with fresh herbs.\\n1-4. Submerge the meat in brine.\\n\\n1-5. Store it in a refrigerator or other cooler space.\\nCuts of pork, wild game, and larger poultry, such as turkey, can be brined anywhere from 4-12 hours; smaller cuts and birds should be brined for 30 minutes to 2 hours.\\nIf your brine is extensively flavored, or if you do not plan to brine the meat for long, consider bringing the mixture to a fast boil and cooling before starting the brine. This is especially effective for chicken and smaller poultry because brining them for too long will cause the meat to break down.\\nTips\\nYou should not rinse raw poultry under that tap as the bacteria then becomes airborne, spreads around the kitchen and can be inhaled. Cooking the meat properly kills all the bacteria.[6]\\nX\\nResearch source\\nThe best flavored brines are often the simplest. Citrus juice and dried mint will add a nice Mediterranean flavor to chicken, while cracked black pepper and red wine vinegar provide a rich French flair.\\nReplace all, or part of the sugar with honey or brown sugar.\\nWarnings\\nMake sure to completely cool your heated brine before using.\\nWatch your food closely while cooking it, especially if barbecuing or grilling it. Brining adds sugar to the meat and can cause it to burn prematurely.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Brining meat before cooking yields a juicy and flavorful result. It's especially important for cooking white meats, which cannot be cooked to temperature (unlike red meats, which can be served rarer for a juicier result).\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Prepare a mixture of three parts salt and one part sugar.\", \"描述\": \"The salt may be kosher or sea salt. The sugar can be any white crystal sugar, but not 10X or confectioner's sugar.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Dissolve the sugar/salt mixture in water.\", \"描述\": \"The salt to water ratio should be 1:16—for every gallon of water you should have a cup of salt (50-60 grams of salt per litre water). Make enough of the mixture to comfortable cover the meat you wish to brine.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Add any flavorings you wish.\", \"描述\": \"Sharp liquids (vinegars and citrus juices), whole seeds, and dried herbs and spices work especially well. Thicker liquids such as honey, oil and some sauces will impart fewer flavors unless boiled (see step 4, substep 1). This is also the case with fresh herbs.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Submerge the meat in brine.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Store it in a refrigerator or other cooler space.\", \"描述\": \"Cuts of pork, wild game, and larger poultry, such as turkey, can be brined anywhere from 4-12 hours; smaller cuts and birds should be brined for 30 minutes to 2 hours.\\nIf your brine is extensively flavored, or if you do not plan to brine the meat for long, consider bringing the mixture to a fast boil and cooling before starting the brine. This is especially effective for chicken and smaller poultry because brining them for too long will cause the meat to break down.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"You should not rinse raw poultry under that tap as the bacteria then becomes airborne, spreads around the kitchen and can be inhaled. Cooking the meat properly kills all the bacteria.[6]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\", \"The best flavored brines are often the simplest. Citrus juice and dried mint will add a nice Mediterranean flavor to chicken, while cracked black pepper and red wine vinegar provide a rich French flair.\\n\", \"Replace all, or part of the sugar with honey or brown sugar.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Make sure to completely cool your heated brine before using.\\n\", \"Watch your food closely while cooking it, especially if barbecuing or grilling it. Brining adds sugar to the meat and can cause it to burn prematurely.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
6,993 |
How to Brine Pork Chops
|
1. Making the Brine
1-1. Pour 3 cups (700ml) of hot water into a large measuring cup.
Run some water from a warm tap or run it through the microwave for 20-30 seconds to heat it up. A higher temperature will help the salt and sugar dissolve faster.
Alternately, you can put the brine together in a saucepan and then heat it briefly on the stovetop to draw more flavor out of the spices.
This will produce enough brine for about 4 medium-sized pork chops. For larger servings, you may need to multiply the recipe.
1-2. Add the salt, sugar, and other spices of choice.
Portion out ½ cup (100g) kosher salt and ½ cup (100g) granulated white or brown sugar and sift them into the water, stirring as you go. Next, incorporate any pungent spices that you think will complement the mild notes of the pork.
Seasonings like black pepper, anise, lemongrass, juniper berries and coriander seed are common additions to a brine, but you’re free to experiment with whatever flavorings you want.
Use a conservative amount of each spice, no more than about 1tbsp (roughly 10-20g)—you don’t want to them to overpower the chops.
1-3. Stir the solution until the salt and sugar have dissolved.
All of the ingredients should be evenly distributed throughout. The brine will begin to take on a murky quality once the spices have been thoroughly blended.
Do your stirring with a whisk rather than a spoon or spatula to help break up any clumps of sugar or salt that may have formed.
1-4. Chill the solution in the refrigerator for 30 minutes to an hour.
If you’d prefer, you can also dunk the entire container in an ice bath to cool it off more rapidly. Don’t simply drop ice cubes into the brine, as this will dilute it.
It’s important to keep your brine at 40°F (4.4°C) or lower throughout the marinating process.
Bacteria thrive in elevated temperatures, which means using a warm brine can present possible health risks.
2. Soaking the Pork Chops
2-1. Place the chops in the bottom of a large dish.
Lay out the chops in a single layer, separating them so that they don’t overlap. Make sure that the dish is at least one or two inches deeper than the chops are thick so that there will plenty of room for the liquid.
To save yourself time, labor, and cleanup, select a dish big enough to hold all of the meat you’re brining at one time.
For the sake of space, you can also use a gallon zipper bag to marinate the chops.
2-2. Pour the brine over the top of the pork chops.
There should be just enough to completely submerge the chops. It’s not necessary to tenderize or season the pork chops prior to brining them. The salty solution will take care of both of these tasks at once.
The level of the liquid will partially depend on the container you’re using. You can always mix up another half portion of brine and add it to what you already have if it comes out a little low.
2-3. Cover and refrigerate the pork chops for 1 to 12 hours.
The chops should marinate for at least one hour. Ideally, however, you can leave them for closer to 4-8, or even overnight. The longer they sit, the more time the solution will have to soften up the tough meat and impart its savory flavors.
Assuming you’re in a hurry, you can get by with as little as half an hour, so long as the chops are on the smaller side. Even a brief brining will make a big difference once it comes time to cook the meat.
If the dish you’re using doesn’t have a lid, a piece of foil or saran wrap will make a good substitute.
2-4. Continue preparing the rest of the meal.
If you have other dishes to make, it’s a good idea to turn your attention to them while the pork chops are brining. This will allow you to make more efficient use of your time and ensure that the meal comes together smoothly.
Try to coordinate your movements so that you can take care of time-consuming tasks like chopping, chilling, or making sauces while the pork chops are brining.
3. Adding More Flavor
3-1. Simmer the brine for a more flavorful finish.
A low heat will unlock more of the complex notes of each spice and seasoning. Be sure to let the solution cool off before introducing it to the meat to avoid raising its internal temperature, and remember to refrigerate right away.
Be careful not to let the brine reach a boil. This may cause the sugar to burn or even begin cooking the outside of the chops.
3-2. Incorporate fruits and vegetables.
There’s room for many more flavors in a brine than basic dry spices alone. A few handfuls of diced celery or onion, carrots, apple segments, or whole garlic cloves can do a lot to perk up your marinade and create balanced layers of flavor.
Zesty dried fruits like figs, cherries, and cranberries are perfectly suited for use in brining mixtures.
Don’t be afraid to get creative when picking out your additives. Pork is relatively mild, and goes equally well with sweet, savory, tart, and bitter flavors.
3-3. Add other liquid ingredients.
Mix ¼-½ cup (60-120ml) of soy sauce, blackened rum, bourbon, or even maple syrup into your brine base. Blend thoroughly, warming the solution if necessary to thin sugary components. The result will be a more potent concoction that lends itself to being modified for a variety of recipes.
For a brighter, summer-inspired brine, try using the juice of fresh citrus fruits.
Pepper-based sauces like sriracha or piri piri are another possible optional for daring eaters who prefer their chops to pack a punch.
Tips
Don’t forget to drain the brine before cooking.
If you’re short on time, try brining your meat overnight. That way, all you’ll have to do is take it out and throw it in the oven or grill pan.
Come up with your own signature brine recipes by experimenting with different combinations of fruits, vegetables, spices, and other additives.
Warnings
Some people believe that stabbing a cut of meat with a fork in an effort will help the brine penetrate down deeper. However, all this does is cause the meat’s natural juices to drain out during the cooking process.
It is possible to brine meat for too long. After about 12 hours, your chops may become mushy or even start to fall apart.
Never save or reuse a brine after it’s been in contact with raw pork.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:58:45",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Making the Brine\\n1-1. Pour 3 cups (700ml) of hot water into a large measuring cup.\\nRun some water from a warm tap or run it through the microwave for 20-30 seconds to heat it up. A higher temperature will help the salt and sugar dissolve faster.\\nAlternately, you can put the brine together in a saucepan and then heat it briefly on the stovetop to draw more flavor out of the spices.\\nThis will produce enough brine for about 4 medium-sized pork chops. For larger servings, you may need to multiply the recipe.\\n1-2. Add the salt, sugar, and other spices of choice.\\nPortion out ½ cup (100g) kosher salt and ½ cup (100g) granulated white or brown sugar and sift them into the water, stirring as you go. Next, incorporate any pungent spices that you think will complement the mild notes of the pork. \\nSeasonings like black pepper, anise, lemongrass, juniper berries and coriander seed are common additions to a brine, but you’re free to experiment with whatever flavorings you want.\\nUse a conservative amount of each spice, no more than about 1tbsp (roughly 10-20g)—you don’t want to them to overpower the chops.\\n1-3. Stir the solution until the salt and sugar have dissolved.\\nAll of the ingredients should be evenly distributed throughout. The brine will begin to take on a murky quality once the spices have been thoroughly blended.\\nDo your stirring with a whisk rather than a spoon or spatula to help break up any clumps of sugar or salt that may have formed.\\n1-4. Chill the solution in the refrigerator for 30 minutes to an hour.\\nIf you’d prefer, you can also dunk the entire container in an ice bath to cool it off more rapidly. Don’t simply drop ice cubes into the brine, as this will dilute it.\\nIt’s important to keep your brine at 40°F (4.4°C) or lower throughout the marinating process.\\nBacteria thrive in elevated temperatures, which means using a warm brine can present possible health risks.\\n2. Soaking the Pork Chops\\n2-1. Place the chops in the bottom of a large dish.\\nLay out the chops in a single layer, separating them so that they don’t overlap. Make sure that the dish is at least one or two inches deeper than the chops are thick so that there will plenty of room for the liquid.\\nTo save yourself time, labor, and cleanup, select a dish big enough to hold all of the meat you’re brining at one time.\\nFor the sake of space, you can also use a gallon zipper bag to marinate the chops.\\n2-2. Pour the brine over the top of the pork chops.\\nThere should be just enough to completely submerge the chops. It’s not necessary to tenderize or season the pork chops prior to brining them. The salty solution will take care of both of these tasks at once.\\nThe level of the liquid will partially depend on the container you’re using. You can always mix up another half portion of brine and add it to what you already have if it comes out a little low.\\n2-3. Cover and refrigerate the pork chops for 1 to 12 hours.\\nThe chops should marinate for at least one hour. Ideally, however, you can leave them for closer to 4-8, or even overnight. The longer they sit, the more time the solution will have to soften up the tough meat and impart its savory flavors.\\nAssuming you’re in a hurry, you can get by with as little as half an hour, so long as the chops are on the smaller side. Even a brief brining will make a big difference once it comes time to cook the meat.\\nIf the dish you’re using doesn’t have a lid, a piece of foil or saran wrap will make a good substitute.\\n2-4. Continue preparing the rest of the meal.\\nIf you have other dishes to make, it’s a good idea to turn your attention to them while the pork chops are brining. This will allow you to make more efficient use of your time and ensure that the meal comes together smoothly.\\nTry to coordinate your movements so that you can take care of time-consuming tasks like chopping, chilling, or making sauces while the pork chops are brining.\\n3. Adding More Flavor\\n3-1. Simmer the brine for a more flavorful finish.\\nA low heat will unlock more of the complex notes of each spice and seasoning. Be sure to let the solution cool off before introducing it to the meat to avoid raising its internal temperature, and remember to refrigerate right away.\\nBe careful not to let the brine reach a boil. This may cause the sugar to burn or even begin cooking the outside of the chops.\\n3-2. Incorporate fruits and vegetables.\\nThere’s room for many more flavors in a brine than basic dry spices alone. A few handfuls of diced celery or onion, carrots, apple segments, or whole garlic cloves can do a lot to perk up your marinade and create balanced layers of flavor.\\nZesty dried fruits like figs, cherries, and cranberries are perfectly suited for use in brining mixtures.\\nDon’t be afraid to get creative when picking out your additives. Pork is relatively mild, and goes equally well with sweet, savory, tart, and bitter flavors.\\n3-3. Add other liquid ingredients.\\nMix ¼-½ cup (60-120ml) of soy sauce, blackened rum, bourbon, or even maple syrup into your brine base. Blend thoroughly, warming the solution if necessary to thin sugary components. The result will be a more potent concoction that lends itself to being modified for a variety of recipes.\\nFor a brighter, summer-inspired brine, try using the juice of fresh citrus fruits.\\nPepper-based sauces like sriracha or piri piri are another possible optional for daring eaters who prefer their chops to pack a punch.\\nTips\\nDon’t forget to drain the brine before cooking.\\nIf you’re short on time, try brining your meat overnight. That way, all you’ll have to do is take it out and throw it in the oven or grill pan.\\nCome up with your own signature brine recipes by experimenting with different combinations of fruits, vegetables, spices, and other additives.\\nWarnings\\nSome people believe that stabbing a cut of meat with a fork in an effort will help the brine penetrate down deeper. However, all this does is cause the meat’s natural juices to drain out during the cooking process.\\nIt is possible to brine meat for too long. After about 12 hours, your chops may become mushy or even start to fall apart.\\nNever save or reuse a brine after it’s been in contact with raw pork.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Brining is a great way to tenderize meats while injecting a burst of succulent flavor, especially for tough cuts like pork chops. Making your own brine from scratch is as simple as mixing up a solution of salt, water, and various spices and seasonings and leaving your meat to marinate while you put together the rest of the meal. Whether they’re destined for the oven, grill or fry pan, you can be confident that your chops will come out juicy and flavorful every time.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Making the Brine\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Pour 3 cups (700ml) of hot water into a large measuring cup.\", \"描述\": \"Run some water from a warm tap or run it through the microwave for 20-30 seconds to heat it up. A higher temperature will help the salt and sugar dissolve faster.\\nAlternately, you can put the brine together in a saucepan and then heat it briefly on the stovetop to draw more flavor out of the spices.\\nThis will produce enough brine for about 4 medium-sized pork chops. For larger servings, you may need to multiply the recipe.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Add the salt, sugar, and other spices of choice.\", \"描述\": \"Portion out ½ cup (100g) kosher salt and ½ cup (100g) granulated white or brown sugar and sift them into the water, stirring as you go. Next, incorporate any pungent spices that you think will complement the mild notes of the pork. \\nSeasonings like black pepper, anise, lemongrass, juniper berries and coriander seed are common additions to a brine, but you’re free to experiment with whatever flavorings you want.\\nUse a conservative amount of each spice, no more than about 1tbsp (roughly 10-20g)—you don’t want to them to overpower the chops.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Stir the solution until the salt and sugar have dissolved.\", \"描述\": \"All of the ingredients should be evenly distributed throughout. The brine will begin to take on a murky quality once the spices have been thoroughly blended.\\nDo your stirring with a whisk rather than a spoon or spatula to help break up any clumps of sugar or salt that may have formed.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Chill the solution in the refrigerator for 30 minutes to an hour.\", \"描述\": \"If you’d prefer, you can also dunk the entire container in an ice bath to cool it off more rapidly. Don’t simply drop ice cubes into the brine, as this will dilute it.\\nIt’s important to keep your brine at 40°F (4.4°C) or lower throughout the marinating process.\\nBacteria thrive in elevated temperatures, which means using a warm brine can present possible health risks.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Soaking the Pork Chops\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Place the chops in the bottom of a large dish.\", \"描述\": \"Lay out the chops in a single layer, separating them so that they don’t overlap. Make sure that the dish is at least one or two inches deeper than the chops are thick so that there will plenty of room for the liquid.\\nTo save yourself time, labor, and cleanup, select a dish big enough to hold all of the meat you’re brining at one time.\\nFor the sake of space, you can also use a gallon zipper bag to marinate the chops.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Pour the brine over the top of the pork chops.\", \"描述\": \"There should be just enough to completely submerge the chops. It’s not necessary to tenderize or season the pork chops prior to brining them. The salty solution will take care of both of these tasks at once.\\nThe level of the liquid will partially depend on the container you’re using. You can always mix up another half portion of brine and add it to what you already have if it comes out a little low.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Cover and refrigerate the pork chops for 1 to 12 hours.\", \"描述\": \"The chops should marinate for at least one hour. Ideally, however, you can leave them for closer to 4-8, or even overnight. The longer they sit, the more time the solution will have to soften up the tough meat and impart its savory flavors.\\nAssuming you’re in a hurry, you can get by with as little as half an hour, so long as the chops are on the smaller side. Even a brief brining will make a big difference once it comes time to cook the meat.\\nIf the dish you’re using doesn’t have a lid, a piece of foil or saran wrap will make a good substitute.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Continue preparing the rest of the meal.\", \"描述\": \"If you have other dishes to make, it’s a good idea to turn your attention to them while the pork chops are brining. This will allow you to make more efficient use of your time and ensure that the meal comes together smoothly.\\nTry to coordinate your movements so that you can take care of time-consuming tasks like chopping, chilling, or making sauces while the pork chops are brining.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Adding More Flavor\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Simmer the brine for a more flavorful finish.\", \"描述\": \"A low heat will unlock more of the complex notes of each spice and seasoning. Be sure to let the solution cool off before introducing it to the meat to avoid raising its internal temperature, and remember to refrigerate right away.\\nBe careful not to let the brine reach a boil. This may cause the sugar to burn or even begin cooking the outside of the chops.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Incorporate fruits and vegetables.\", \"描述\": \"There’s room for many more flavors in a brine than basic dry spices alone. A few handfuls of diced celery or onion, carrots, apple segments, or whole garlic cloves can do a lot to perk up your marinade and create balanced layers of flavor.\\nZesty dried fruits like figs, cherries, and cranberries are perfectly suited for use in brining mixtures.\\nDon’t be afraid to get creative when picking out your additives. Pork is relatively mild, and goes equally well with sweet, savory, tart, and bitter flavors.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Add other liquid ingredients.\", \"描述\": \"Mix ¼-½ cup (60-120ml) of soy sauce, blackened rum, bourbon, or even maple syrup into your brine base. Blend thoroughly, warming the solution if necessary to thin sugary components. The result will be a more potent concoction that lends itself to being modified for a variety of recipes.\\nFor a brighter, summer-inspired brine, try using the juice of fresh citrus fruits.\\nPepper-based sauces like sriracha or piri piri are another possible optional for daring eaters who prefer their chops to pack a punch.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Don’t forget to drain the brine before cooking.\\n\", \"If you’re short on time, try brining your meat overnight. That way, all you’ll have to do is take it out and throw it in the oven or grill pan.\\n\", \"Come up with your own signature brine recipes by experimenting with different combinations of fruits, vegetables, spices, and other additives.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Some people believe that stabbing a cut of meat with a fork in an effort will help the brine penetrate down deeper. However, all this does is cause the meat’s natural juices to drain out during the cooking process.\\n\", \"It is possible to brine meat for too long. After about 12 hours, your chops may become mushy or even start to fall apart.\\n\", \"Never save or reuse a brine after it’s been in contact with raw pork.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
6,994 |
How to Brine a Fresh Ham
|
1. Steps
1-1. Purchase a fresh ham roast.
Fresh ham is not the cured, smoked product we associate with ham. It is a cut of pork. Choose one that is 8-12 pounds total weight. Ham needs to be thawed and not frozen when you place it in the brine.You also need a food grade container large enough to place your ham and brine in and have the meat completely covered by the brine.
1-2. Take 6 cups of the water and put into a large kettle on your stove.
Add in all of the other ingredients, except the remaining water. Bring to a boil.
1-3. Stir to dissolve the salt and sugar.
Boil about 2 minutes.
1-4. Remove from heat and let cool to room temperature.
1-5. Place your fresh ham roast into the container you have chosen.
1-6. Pour the cooled brine recipe over the ham.
1-7. Add the rest of the water and stir it around to combine.
The ham needs to be completely covered by liquid.
1-8. Keep at 38–40 °F (3–4 °C).
If you do not have a cold garage or room in your refrigerator, reduce the water you add by 6 cups. Add 1 pound of ice instead.
1-9. Keep meat in brine no less than 48 hours.
You can brine up to 4 days if you keep the temperature down.
1-10. Remove from brine.
Pat dry and let meat come close to room temperature.
1-11. Roast in the oven until done, about 21 minutes per pound of meat.
1-12. Remove from oven and let rest on counter for 5-10 minutes before carving.
Tips
A cooler makes a great container to brine your ham in.
You can add more spices if you want. A cinnamon stick, 1 tablespoon (14.8 ml). of whole mustard seed, 1/2 cup of honey. Use your imagination. Like it spicy? Add in some red pepper flakes.
Warnings
You can substitute the coarse ground kosher salt with table or pickling salt if you prefer. However, you must reduce the amount to just over 1 cup of salt. If you use 2 cups of finely ground salt, it will be far too salty!
Be sure this does not get too warm during the brining process. Although the salt in this brine kills a lot of bacteria, food kept above 40 °F (4 °C) can cause food born illnesses. If you must rely on ice to keep it cold , prepare more brine according to recipe and add in 4 cups when you add the ice to keep the salt ratio correct.
Do not add salt to the meat before cooking it. It will be salty enough from the brining.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:58:45",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Purchase a fresh ham roast.\\nFresh ham is not the cured, smoked product we associate with ham. It is a cut of pork. Choose one that is 8-12 pounds total weight. Ham needs to be thawed and not frozen when you place it in the brine.You also need a food grade container large enough to place your ham and brine in and have the meat completely covered by the brine.\\n1-2. Take 6 cups of the water and put into a large kettle on your stove.\\nAdd in all of the other ingredients, except the remaining water. Bring to a boil.\\n1-3. Stir to dissolve the salt and sugar.\\nBoil about 2 minutes.\\n1-4. Remove from heat and let cool to room temperature.\\n\\n1-5. Place your fresh ham roast into the container you have chosen.\\n\\n1-6. Pour the cooled brine recipe over the ham.\\n\\n1-7. Add the rest of the water and stir it around to combine.\\nThe ham needs to be completely covered by liquid.\\n1-8. Keep at 38–40 °F (3–4 °C).\\nIf you do not have a cold garage or room in your refrigerator, reduce the water you add by 6 cups. Add 1 pound of ice instead.\\n1-9. Keep meat in brine no less than 48 hours.\\nYou can brine up to 4 days if you keep the temperature down.\\n1-10. Remove from brine.\\nPat dry and let meat come close to room temperature.\\n1-11. Roast in the oven until done, about 21 minutes per pound of meat.\\n\\n1-12. Remove from oven and let rest on counter for 5-10 minutes before carving.\\n\\nTips\\nA cooler makes a great container to brine your ham in.\\nYou can add more spices if you want. A cinnamon stick, 1 tablespoon (14.8 ml). of whole mustard seed, 1/2 cup of honey. Use your imagination. Like it spicy? Add in some red pepper flakes.\\nWarnings\\nYou can substitute the coarse ground kosher salt with table or pickling salt if you prefer. However, you must reduce the amount to just over 1 cup of salt. If you use 2 cups of finely ground salt, it will be far too salty!\\nBe sure this does not get too warm during the brining process. Although the salt in this brine kills a lot of bacteria, food kept above 40 °F (4 °C) can cause food born illnesses. If you must rely on ice to keep it cold , prepare more brine according to recipe and add in 4 cups when you add the ice to keep the salt ratio correct.\\nDo not add salt to the meat before cooking it. It will be salty enough from the brining.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Putting meat into a brine produces a flavorful, moist dinner. This is a basic recipe/method for brining a fresh ham.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Purchase a fresh ham roast.\", \"描述\": \"Fresh ham is not the cured, smoked product we associate with ham. It is a cut of pork. Choose one that is 8-12 pounds total weight. Ham needs to be thawed and not frozen when you place it in the brine.You also need a food grade container large enough to place your ham and brine in and have the meat completely covered by the brine.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Take 6 cups of the water and put into a large kettle on your stove.\", \"描述\": \"Add in all of the other ingredients, except the remaining water. Bring to a boil.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Stir to dissolve the salt and sugar.\", \"描述\": \"Boil about 2 minutes.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Remove from heat and let cool to room temperature.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Place your fresh ham roast into the container you have chosen.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Pour the cooled brine recipe over the ham.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Add the rest of the water and stir it around to combine.\", \"描述\": \"The ham needs to be completely covered by liquid.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Keep at 38–40 °F (3–4 °C).\", \"描述\": \"If you do not have a cold garage or room in your refrigerator, reduce the water you add by 6 cups. Add 1 pound of ice instead.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Keep meat in brine no less than 48 hours.\", \"描述\": \"You can brine up to 4 days if you keep the temperature down.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Remove from brine.\", \"描述\": \"Pat dry and let meat come close to room temperature.\"}, {\"编号\": 11, \"标题\": \"Roast in the oven until done, about 21 minutes per pound of meat.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 12, \"标题\": \"Remove from oven and let rest on counter for 5-10 minutes before carving.\", \"描述\": \"\"}], \"小提示\": [\"A cooler makes a great container to brine your ham in.\\n\", \"You can add more spices if you want. A cinnamon stick, 1 tablespoon (14.8 ml). of whole mustard seed, 1/2 cup of honey. Use your imagination. Like it spicy? Add in some red pepper flakes.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"You can substitute the coarse ground kosher salt with table or pickling salt if you prefer. However, you must reduce the amount to just over 1 cup of salt. If you use 2 cups of finely ground salt, it will be far too salty!\\n\", \"Be sure this does not get too warm during the brining process. Although the salt in this brine kills a lot of bacteria, food kept above 40 °F (4 °C) can cause food born illnesses. If you must rely on ice to keep it cold , prepare more brine according to recipe and add in 4 cups when you add the ice to keep the salt ratio correct.\\n\", \"Do not add salt to the meat before cooking it. It will be salty enough from the brining.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
6,995 |
How to Brine a Turkey
|
1. Thawing the Turkey and Making the Brine
1-1. Move the frozen turkey to the refrigerator 2 to 3 days before cooking.
Take the 14 to 16 lb (6.4 to 7.3 kg) frozen young turkey from the freezer and place it in the refrigerator to thaw completely. This should take 2 to 3 days.
Your refrigerator should be 38 °F (3 °C) or cooler.
1-2. Mix the salt, sugar, stock, pepper, allspice, and ginger.
Place a large stockpot on the stove and pour 1 gallon (3.8 l) of vegetable stock into it. Stir in 1 cup (288 g) of kosher salt, 1/2 cup (100 g) of light brown sugar, 1 tablespoon (9 g) of black peppercorns, 1 1/2 teaspoons (1.5 g) of allspice berries, and 1 1/2 teaspoons (6 g) of chopped candied ginger.
1-3. Bring the brine to a boil.
Turn the burner to medium-high and stir the brine every once in a while as it heats. The brine should begin to boil as the sugar dissolves.
1-4. Cool and refrigerate the brine.
Turn off the burner and let the brine cool until it's at room temperature. Put the lid on the stockpot and transfer it to the refrigerator to chill while the turkey thaws.
If your stockpot won't fit in the refrigerator, pour the brine into a storage container with a lid. Put the container in the fridge.
You can make the brine a few days before you plan to roast the turkey.
2. Submerging the Turkey in Brine
2-1. Mix the brine with 1 gallon (3.8 l) ice water in a large container.
On the morning of the day you want to roast the turkey or the night before, remove the brine from the refrigerator. Pour it into a 5 US gal (19 l) food-safe bucket or cooler. Mix in the ice water.
Consider using a 5 US gal (19 l) drink cooler. These have good insulation and a drain spout for easy clean up.
2-2. Submerge the thawed turkey in the brine.
Take the turkey from the refrigerator and remove the innards. Discard the innards and the pop-up thermometer if your turkey has one. Put the turkey breast-side down in the brine-filled container.
The turkey should be completely covered in brine. If it isn't, place a heavy plate or dish on the turkey to weigh it down.
2-3. Chill the turkey in the brine for 8 to 16 hours.
Cover the bucket and refrigerate the turkey while it brines. If you're using a cooler with a lid, screw the lid on and leave it in a cool place while the turkey brines.
The cooler with the turkey and brine should keep the turkey at 38 °F (3 °C) or below. If you think the cooler isn't keeping the turkey cold enough, refrigerate it.
3. Roasting the Brined Turkey
3-1. Preheat the oven to 500 °F (260 °C) and adjust your oven racks.
You may have to remove 1 of your oven's racks in order to fit the turkey inside. Adjust the remaining rack to the lowest part of the oven so you have space to fit the roaster.
3-2. Lift the turkey out of the brine and rinse it with cold water.
Set the container with the turkey and brine next to your sink. Remove the lid and lift the turkey out of the brine. Run cold water in the sink and rinse the brine off of the turkey.
Remember to rinse the inside cavity of the turkey as well.
Discard the brine once you've taken the turkey out of it. Never reuse brine.
3-3. Put the turkey on a roasting pan and pat it dry.
If you don't have a roasting pan, put a sturdy wire rack in a large baking dish and set the turkey on it. Use paper towels to completely dry the turkey.
Drying the turkey will help the skin crisp as it roasts.
3-4. Season the turkey if you like and roast it for 30 minutes.
If you'd like, put aromatics such as lemon, garlic herb rub made with butter, rosemary, thyme, onions, or herbs in the center of the turkey. Put the turkey into the preheated oven and roast it at high heat for 30 minutes.
3-5. Turn the oven to 350 °F (177 °C) and roast the turkey till it reaches 165 °F (74 °C).
This should take 2 to 2 1/2 hours. To test if it's done, insert an instant-read meat thermometer into the thickest part of the turkey near the thigh and the wing.
3-6. Remove the turkey and let it rest for 15 minutes before you carve it.
Turn off the oven and take the turkey out of the oven. Cover it loosely with foil and leave it to rest so the juices redistribute within the meat. Then you can carve and serve your brined turkey.
Store leftover roasted turkey in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 3 to 4 days.
Tips
Avoid brining the turkey for more than 24 hours or the meat will toughen.
Do not use a self-basting or Kosher turkey because they already have salt added.
Warnings
Always use good hygiene practices such as washing your hands and sanitizing your work surfaces when handling raw poultry.
The USDA doesn’t recommend rinsing raw turkey unless you need to remove excess brine. Rinsing won’t wash away germs effectively, and it can spread bacteria around and increase your risk of getting sick. The best way to get rid of germs is to cook your turkey thoroughly.[15]
X
Trustworthy Source
US Department of Agriculture
U.S. agency responsible for promoting good agricultural practices and protecting consumers
Go to source
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:58:45",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Thawing the Turkey and Making the Brine\\n1-1. Move the frozen turkey to the refrigerator 2 to 3 days before cooking.\\nTake the 14 to 16 lb (6.4 to 7.3 kg) frozen young turkey from the freezer and place it in the refrigerator to thaw completely. This should take 2 to 3 days.\\nYour refrigerator should be 38 °F (3 °C) or cooler.\\n1-2. Mix the salt, sugar, stock, pepper, allspice, and ginger.\\nPlace a large stockpot on the stove and pour 1 gallon (3.8 l) of vegetable stock into it. Stir in 1 cup (288 g) of kosher salt, 1/2 cup (100 g) of light brown sugar, 1 tablespoon (9 g) of black peppercorns, 1 1/2 teaspoons (1.5 g) of allspice berries, and 1 1/2 teaspoons (6 g) of chopped candied ginger.\\n1-3. Bring the brine to a boil.\\nTurn the burner to medium-high and stir the brine every once in a while as it heats. The brine should begin to boil as the sugar dissolves.\\n1-4. Cool and refrigerate the brine.\\nTurn off the burner and let the brine cool until it's at room temperature. Put the lid on the stockpot and transfer it to the refrigerator to chill while the turkey thaws.\\nIf your stockpot won't fit in the refrigerator, pour the brine into a storage container with a lid. Put the container in the fridge.\\nYou can make the brine a few days before you plan to roast the turkey.\\n2. Submerging the Turkey in Brine\\n2-1. Mix the brine with 1 gallon (3.8 l) ice water in a large container.\\nOn the morning of the day you want to roast the turkey or the night before, remove the brine from the refrigerator. Pour it into a 5 US gal (19 l) food-safe bucket or cooler. Mix in the ice water.\\nConsider using a 5 US gal (19 l) drink cooler. These have good insulation and a drain spout for easy clean up.\\n2-2. Submerge the thawed turkey in the brine.\\nTake the turkey from the refrigerator and remove the innards. Discard the innards and the pop-up thermometer if your turkey has one. Put the turkey breast-side down in the brine-filled container.\\nThe turkey should be completely covered in brine. If it isn't, place a heavy plate or dish on the turkey to weigh it down.\\n2-3. Chill the turkey in the brine for 8 to 16 hours.\\nCover the bucket and refrigerate the turkey while it brines. If you're using a cooler with a lid, screw the lid on and leave it in a cool place while the turkey brines.\\nThe cooler with the turkey and brine should keep the turkey at 38 °F (3 °C) or below. If you think the cooler isn't keeping the turkey cold enough, refrigerate it.\\n3. Roasting the Brined Turkey\\n3-1. Preheat the oven to 500 °F (260 °C) and adjust your oven racks.\\nYou may have to remove 1 of your oven's racks in order to fit the turkey inside. Adjust the remaining rack to the lowest part of the oven so you have space to fit the roaster.\\n3-2. Lift the turkey out of the brine and rinse it with cold water.\\nSet the container with the turkey and brine next to your sink. Remove the lid and lift the turkey out of the brine. Run cold water in the sink and rinse the brine off of the turkey.\\nRemember to rinse the inside cavity of the turkey as well.\\nDiscard the brine once you've taken the turkey out of it. Never reuse brine.\\n3-3. Put the turkey on a roasting pan and pat it dry.\\nIf you don't have a roasting pan, put a sturdy wire rack in a large baking dish and set the turkey on it. Use paper towels to completely dry the turkey.\\nDrying the turkey will help the skin crisp as it roasts.\\n3-4. Season the turkey if you like and roast it for 30 minutes.\\nIf you'd like, put aromatics such as lemon, garlic herb rub made with butter, rosemary, thyme, onions, or herbs in the center of the turkey. Put the turkey into the preheated oven and roast it at high heat for 30 minutes.\\n3-5. Turn the oven to 350 °F (177 °C) and roast the turkey till it reaches 165 °F (74 °C).\\nThis should take 2 to 2 1/2 hours. To test if it's done, insert an instant-read meat thermometer into the thickest part of the turkey near the thigh and the wing.\\n3-6. Remove the turkey and let it rest for 15 minutes before you carve it.\\nTurn off the oven and take the turkey out of the oven. Cover it loosely with foil and leave it to rest so the juices redistribute within the meat. Then you can carve and serve your brined turkey.\\nStore leftover roasted turkey in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 3 to 4 days.\\nTips\\nAvoid brining the turkey for more than 24 hours or the meat will toughen.\\nDo not use a self-basting or Kosher turkey because they already have salt added.\\nWarnings\\nAlways use good hygiene practices such as washing your hands and sanitizing your work surfaces when handling raw poultry.\\nThe USDA doesn’t recommend rinsing raw turkey unless you need to remove excess brine. Rinsing won’t wash away germs effectively, and it can spread bacteria around and increase your risk of getting sick. The best way to get rid of germs is to cook your turkey thoroughly.[15]\\nX\\nTrustworthy Source\\nUS Department of Agriculture\\nU.S. agency responsible for promoting good agricultural practices and protecting consumers\\nGo to source\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"If you dread tough or dry turkey, take the time to brine it before roasting. Create a flavorful solution of vegetable stock, salt, and seasonings. Submerge a thawed turkey in the brine along with lots of ice water and leave it to chill for at least 8 to 16 hours. Remove the turkey from the brine and pat it dry. Then roast the turkey until it reaches 165 °F (74 °C) and enjoy!\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Thawing the Turkey and Making the Brine\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Move the frozen turkey to the refrigerator 2 to 3 days before cooking.\", \"描述\": \"Take the 14 to 16 lb (6.4 to 7.3 kg) frozen young turkey from the freezer and place it in the refrigerator to thaw completely. This should take 2 to 3 days.\\nYour refrigerator should be 38 °F (3 °C) or cooler.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Mix the salt, sugar, stock, pepper, allspice, and ginger.\", \"描述\": \"Place a large stockpot on the stove and pour 1 gallon (3.8 l) of vegetable stock into it. Stir in 1 cup (288 g) of kosher salt, 1/2 cup (100 g) of light brown sugar, 1 tablespoon (9 g) of black peppercorns, 1 1/2 teaspoons (1.5 g) of allspice berries, and 1 1/2 teaspoons (6 g) of chopped candied ginger.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Bring the brine to a boil.\", \"描述\": \"Turn the burner to medium-high and stir the brine every once in a while as it heats. The brine should begin to boil as the sugar dissolves.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Cool and refrigerate the brine.\", \"描述\": \"Turn off the burner and let the brine cool until it's at room temperature. Put the lid on the stockpot and transfer it to the refrigerator to chill while the turkey thaws.\\nIf your stockpot won't fit in the refrigerator, pour the brine into a storage container with a lid. Put the container in the fridge.\\nYou can make the brine a few days before you plan to roast the turkey.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Submerging the Turkey in Brine\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Mix the brine with 1 gallon (3.8 l) ice water in a large container.\", \"描述\": \"On the morning of the day you want to roast the turkey or the night before, remove the brine from the refrigerator. Pour it into a 5 US gal (19 l) food-safe bucket or cooler. Mix in the ice water.\\nConsider using a 5 US gal (19 l) drink cooler. These have good insulation and a drain spout for easy clean up.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Submerge the thawed turkey in the brine.\", \"描述\": \"Take the turkey from the refrigerator and remove the innards. Discard the innards and the pop-up thermometer if your turkey has one. Put the turkey breast-side down in the brine-filled container.\\nThe turkey should be completely covered in brine. If it isn't, place a heavy plate or dish on the turkey to weigh it down.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Chill the turkey in the brine for 8 to 16 hours.\", \"描述\": \"Cover the bucket and refrigerate the turkey while it brines. If you're using a cooler with a lid, screw the lid on and leave it in a cool place while the turkey brines.\\nThe cooler with the turkey and brine should keep the turkey at 38 °F (3 °C) or below. If you think the cooler isn't keeping the turkey cold enough, refrigerate it.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Roasting the Brined Turkey\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Preheat the oven to 500 °F (260 °C) and adjust your oven racks.\", \"描述\": \"You may have to remove 1 of your oven's racks in order to fit the turkey inside. Adjust the remaining rack to the lowest part of the oven so you have space to fit the roaster.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Lift the turkey out of the brine and rinse it with cold water.\", \"描述\": \"Set the container with the turkey and brine next to your sink. Remove the lid and lift the turkey out of the brine. Run cold water in the sink and rinse the brine off of the turkey.\\nRemember to rinse the inside cavity of the turkey as well.\\nDiscard the brine once you've taken the turkey out of it. Never reuse brine.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Put the turkey on a roasting pan and pat it dry.\", \"描述\": \"If you don't have a roasting pan, put a sturdy wire rack in a large baking dish and set the turkey on it. Use paper towels to completely dry the turkey.\\nDrying the turkey will help the skin crisp as it roasts.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Season the turkey if you like and roast it for 30 minutes.\", \"描述\": \"If you'd like, put aromatics such as lemon, garlic herb rub made with butter, rosemary, thyme, onions, or herbs in the center of the turkey. Put the turkey into the preheated oven and roast it at high heat for 30 minutes.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Turn the oven to 350 °F (177 °C) and roast the turkey till it reaches 165 °F (74 °C).\", \"描述\": \"This should take 2 to 2 1/2 hours. To test if it's done, insert an instant-read meat thermometer into the thickest part of the turkey near the thigh and the wing.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Remove the turkey and let it rest for 15 minutes before you carve it.\", \"描述\": \"Turn off the oven and take the turkey out of the oven. Cover it loosely with foil and leave it to rest so the juices redistribute within the meat. Then you can carve and serve your brined turkey.\\nStore leftover roasted turkey in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 3 to 4 days.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Avoid brining the turkey for more than 24 hours or the meat will toughen.\\n\", \"Do not use a self-basting or Kosher turkey because they already have salt added.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Always use good hygiene practices such as washing your hands and sanitizing your work surfaces when handling raw poultry.\\n\", \"The USDA doesn’t recommend rinsing raw turkey unless you need to remove excess brine. Rinsing won’t wash away germs effectively, and it can spread bacteria around and increase your risk of getting sick. The best way to get rid of germs is to cook your turkey thoroughly.[15]\\nX\\nTrustworthy Source\\nUS Department of Agriculture\\nU.S. agency responsible for promoting good agricultural practices and protecting consumers\\nGo to source\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
6,996 |
Making a Long Distance Relationship Work: 9 Ways to Bring Back Love
|
1. Be open about your communication needs.
It’s important to find a balance that works for both of you.
If you’re worried the spark is fading in your relationship, your first instinct might be to communicate more often to bridge the gap. If your partner is feeling smothered, though, upping communication could have the opposite effect. Everyone has different needs, so the best thing to do is talk about it and come up with a mutually satisfying solution. You might start this conversation by saying:
“I feel like you’ve been pulling away from me lately. Am I texting you too much during the day or making you feel smothered?”
“I know we live in different time zones and our schedules are really different, but it seems like we’re drifting apart. Do you think chatting or texting more often would help us feel closer?”
"I want to make sure I'm supporting you as much as you need without smothering you. Don't be afraid to tell me how often you'd like to talk and what communication styles you like best. Let's figure this out together!"
2. Try communicating in new ways.
Communicating the same way all the time can get dull and predictable.
You definitely want to schedule a lot of your communication so you're always on the same page, but that doesn’t mean you have to strictly follow that routine all the time. To keep things interesting, switch things up every now and then! Here are a few ideas to get you started:
Send a text with a song link and say, “This made me think of you.”
Send them a recorded voice memo just to say “I love you.”
Surprise them a care package.
Send a handwritten letter or funny postcard out of the blue.
Get their favorite meal or candy delivered to their house.
3. Talk about the little things going on.
Sharing "boring" everyday details can help you feel more connected.
Since you don’t see or talk to each other as often as you'd like, it’s easy to overthink your conversations. You might feel pressure to have deep, meaningful communication all the time, but that’s just not realistic. More importantly, sharing "boring” details helps you both feel more involved in each other’s daily lives. If you aren’t sure where to start, try asking questions like:
Where do you go on your lunch hour?
What podcasts have you been listening to lately?
Who do you walk home with every day?
What’s the average day like at your school?
What are you having for dinner tonight?
What have you been watching on Netflix?
4. Focus on being positive and upbeat.
Being apart is hard, but constant negativity can strain your relationship.
That doesn’t mean you have to pretend like nothing is wrong if something is truly bothering you, of course! But if it’s just a typical day, try to keep your communication upbeat. You want your partner to feel energized and excited after you chat (not drained or sullen). And while you don’t want to be frivolous all the time, there’s something to be said for lighthearted communication. If you aren’t sure how to get started:
Text your SO a picture of yourself genuinely smiling every day.
Make them laugh with silly GIFs, videos, and links.
Come up with funny or sweet pet names for each other and use them often.
Reframe the distance between you as a challenge that will make you stronger.
5. Schedule weekly virtual date nights.
It’s important to really "see" each other on a regular basis.
Phone calls, DMs, and texts are great, but being able to see your partner’s face on a video call helps you create and maintain a deeper connection. And just because you can’t go on regular dates doesn’t mean you can’t “do” things together! Plan a standing "date" a certain day/time every week. Aim to have a variety of dates: romantic, silly, and casual. Try ideas like:
Making the same food and eating dinner together.
Streaming your favorite show at the same time.
Online gaming (World of Warcraft, Minecraft, Fortnite, etc.)
Doing laundry or going grocery shopping “together.”
Taking a stroll “together” in the park.
6. Find new ways to share experiences.
Get creative so you’re experiencing a range of emotions as a couple.
There are tons of things you can do “together” to feel closer despite the miles between you. You can read the same book and compare notes later or challenge each other to an online game. Make a playlist together and listen to it at the same time each day. Consider other unique ideas like:
Exercise together: sign up for a virtual race or follow the same yoga tutorial.
Gardening: grow the same plants from seed and share images of your progress.
Learn something new: take the same online course and do the assignments together.
Joint journal: choose an online journal platform and take turns writing entries.
Hobby switch: try each other’s hobbies for a month.
7. Swap a few physical belongings.
Having something tangible from your partner is a powerful thing.
What items you exchange is entirely up to you! It’s nice to have a little variety, though: something sexy, something sentimental, something handwritten, etc. Here are a few ideas to get you started:
Swap articles of clothing (scarves, T-shirts, undies...your call!)
Exchange signature scents and spray them on your bed linens.
Give each other handwritten letters.
Send each other special Polaroid selfies.
Exchange your favorite books by mail.
8. Carve out time for sex on a regular basis.
It's important to meet each other’s physical needs, too.
It’s easy to hyperfocus on the emotional side of things, but sharing sexual experiences together is important to keep your relationship healthy. Sexting, masturbating together, Zoom sex, watching porn, taking a video bath “together,” sending naughty selfies, role-splaying, talking dirty...the possibilities are endless! The most important thing is to connect in a “physical” way regularly.
To keep things interesting, try to have an open mind and explore a variety of sexy adventures with your partner.
Talk to your partner about their needs and how often they need to connect physically to feel happy and fulfilled in your relationship.
Do your best to meet each other halfway when it comes to experimenting and acting out fantasies.
9. Plan your visits well in advance.
Always having something to look forward to is priceless.
Pick a regular interval of time that makes sense for both of you (a month, 3 months, 6 months, whatever) and try to avoid going any longer than that without scheduling your next visit. Really throw yourself into planning each visit so you can be excited together as the date gets closer.
Both of you can suggest ideas and switch off taking the lead on planning activities!
That said, be sure to allow for unplanned time together during each visit, too, so you can be spontaneous.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:58:46",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Be open about your communication needs.\\nIt’s important to find a balance that works for both of you.\\nIf you’re worried the spark is fading in your relationship, your first instinct might be to communicate more often to bridge the gap. If your partner is feeling smothered, though, upping communication could have the opposite effect. Everyone has different needs, so the best thing to do is talk about it and come up with a mutually satisfying solution. You might start this conversation by saying:\\n“I feel like you’ve been pulling away from me lately. Am I texting you too much during the day or making you feel smothered?”\\n“I know we live in different time zones and our schedules are really different, but it seems like we’re drifting apart. Do you think chatting or texting more often would help us feel closer?”\\n\\\"I want to make sure I'm supporting you as much as you need without smothering you. Don't be afraid to tell me how often you'd like to talk and what communication styles you like best. Let's figure this out together!\\\"\\n2. Try communicating in new ways.\\nCommunicating the same way all the time can get dull and predictable.\\nYou definitely want to schedule a lot of your communication so you're always on the same page, but that doesn’t mean you have to strictly follow that routine all the time. To keep things interesting, switch things up every now and then! Here are a few ideas to get you started:\\nSend a text with a song link and say, “This made me think of you.”\\nSend them a recorded voice memo just to say “I love you.”\\nSurprise them a care package.\\nSend a handwritten letter or funny postcard out of the blue.\\nGet their favorite meal or candy delivered to their house.\\n3. Talk about the little things going on.\\nSharing \\\"boring\\\" everyday details can help you feel more connected.\\nSince you don’t see or talk to each other as often as you'd like, it’s easy to overthink your conversations. You might feel pressure to have deep, meaningful communication all the time, but that’s just not realistic. More importantly, sharing \\\"boring” details helps you both feel more involved in each other’s daily lives. If you aren’t sure where to start, try asking questions like:\\nWhere do you go on your lunch hour?\\nWhat podcasts have you been listening to lately?\\nWho do you walk home with every day?\\nWhat’s the average day like at your school?\\nWhat are you having for dinner tonight?\\nWhat have you been watching on Netflix?\\n4. Focus on being positive and upbeat.\\nBeing apart is hard, but constant negativity can strain your relationship.\\nThat doesn’t mean you have to pretend like nothing is wrong if something is truly bothering you, of course! But if it’s just a typical day, try to keep your communication upbeat. You want your partner to feel energized and excited after you chat (not drained or sullen). And while you don’t want to be frivolous all the time, there’s something to be said for lighthearted communication. If you aren’t sure how to get started:\\nText your SO a picture of yourself genuinely smiling every day.\\nMake them laugh with silly GIFs, videos, and links.\\nCome up with funny or sweet pet names for each other and use them often.\\nReframe the distance between you as a challenge that will make you stronger.\\n5. Schedule weekly virtual date nights.\\nIt’s important to really \\\"see\\\" each other on a regular basis.\\nPhone calls, DMs, and texts are great, but being able to see your partner’s face on a video call helps you create and maintain a deeper connection. And just because you can’t go on regular dates doesn’t mean you can’t “do” things together! Plan a standing \\\"date\\\" a certain day/time every week. Aim to have a variety of dates: romantic, silly, and casual. Try ideas like:\\nMaking the same food and eating dinner together.\\nStreaming your favorite show at the same time.\\nOnline gaming (World of Warcraft, Minecraft, Fortnite, etc.)\\nDoing laundry or going grocery shopping “together.”\\nTaking a stroll “together” in the park.\\n6. Find new ways to share experiences.\\nGet creative so you’re experiencing a range of emotions as a couple.\\nThere are tons of things you can do “together” to feel closer despite the miles between you. You can read the same book and compare notes later or challenge each other to an online game. Make a playlist together and listen to it at the same time each day. Consider other unique ideas like:\\nExercise together: sign up for a virtual race or follow the same yoga tutorial.\\nGardening: grow the same plants from seed and share images of your progress.\\nLearn something new: take the same online course and do the assignments together.\\nJoint journal: choose an online journal platform and take turns writing entries.\\nHobby switch: try each other’s hobbies for a month.\\n7. Swap a few physical belongings.\\nHaving something tangible from your partner is a powerful thing.\\nWhat items you exchange is entirely up to you! It’s nice to have a little variety, though: something sexy, something sentimental, something handwritten, etc. Here are a few ideas to get you started:\\nSwap articles of clothing (scarves, T-shirts, undies...your call!)\\nExchange signature scents and spray them on your bed linens.\\nGive each other handwritten letters.\\nSend each other special Polaroid selfies.\\nExchange your favorite books by mail.\\n8. Carve out time for sex on a regular basis.\\nIt's important to meet each other’s physical needs, too.\\nIt’s easy to hyperfocus on the emotional side of things, but sharing sexual experiences together is important to keep your relationship healthy. Sexting, masturbating together, Zoom sex, watching porn, taking a video bath “together,” sending naughty selfies, role-splaying, talking dirty...the possibilities are endless! The most important thing is to connect in a “physical” way regularly.\\nTo keep things interesting, try to have an open mind and explore a variety of sexy adventures with your partner.\\nTalk to your partner about their needs and how often they need to connect physically to feel happy and fulfilled in your relationship.\\nDo your best to meet each other halfway when it comes to experimenting and acting out fantasies.\\n9. Plan your visits well in advance.\\nAlways having something to look forward to is priceless.\\nPick a regular interval of time that makes sense for both of you (a month, 3 months, 6 months, whatever) and try to avoid going any longer than that without scheduling your next visit. Really throw yourself into planning each visit so you can be excited together as the date gets closer.\\nBoth of you can suggest ideas and switch off taking the lead on planning activities!\\nThat said, be sure to allow for unplanned time together during each visit, too, so you can be spontaneous.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Long-distance relationships aren't that different from regular relationships: in the beginning, everything feels exciting and new. You're falling in love and it's incredible! After a while, though, you settle into a routine and things can start feeling, well, a little stale. If you're worried the spark has gone out of your long-distance relationship, we're here to help. To rekindle the passion, try out some of the tips on our handy list!This article is based on an interview with our professional dating coach, John Keegan, founder of The Awakened Lifestyle. Check out the full interview here.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Be open about your communication needs.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"It’s important to find a balance that works for both of you.\", \"描述\": \"If you’re worried the spark is fading in your relationship, your first instinct might be to communicate more often to bridge the gap. If your partner is feeling smothered, though, upping communication could have the opposite effect. Everyone has different needs, so the best thing to do is talk about it and come up with a mutually satisfying solution. You might start this conversation by saying:\\n“I feel like you’ve been pulling away from me lately. Am I texting you too much during the day or making you feel smothered?”\\n“I know we live in different time zones and our schedules are really different, but it seems like we’re drifting apart. Do you think chatting or texting more often would help us feel closer?”\\n\\\"I want to make sure I'm supporting you as much as you need without smothering you. Don't be afraid to tell me how often you'd like to talk and what communication styles you like best. Let's figure this out together!\\\"\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Try communicating in new ways.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Communicating the same way all the time can get dull and predictable.\", \"描述\": \"You definitely want to schedule a lot of your communication so you're always on the same page, but that doesn’t mean you have to strictly follow that routine all the time. To keep things interesting, switch things up every now and then! Here are a few ideas to get you started:\\nSend a text with a song link and say, “This made me think of you.”\\nSend them a recorded voice memo just to say “I love you.”\\nSurprise them a care package.\\nSend a handwritten letter or funny postcard out of the blue.\\nGet their favorite meal or candy delivered to their house.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Talk about the little things going on.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Sharing \\\"boring\\\" everyday details can help you feel more connected.\", \"描述\": \"Since you don’t see or talk to each other as often as you'd like, it’s easy to overthink your conversations. You might feel pressure to have deep, meaningful communication all the time, but that’s just not realistic. More importantly, sharing \\\"boring” details helps you both feel more involved in each other’s daily lives. If you aren’t sure where to start, try asking questions like:\\nWhere do you go on your lunch hour?\\nWhat podcasts have you been listening to lately?\\nWho do you walk home with every day?\\nWhat’s the average day like at your school?\\nWhat are you having for dinner tonight?\\nWhat have you been watching on Netflix?\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Focus on being positive and upbeat.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Being apart is hard, but constant negativity can strain your relationship.\", \"描述\": \"That doesn’t mean you have to pretend like nothing is wrong if something is truly bothering you, of course! But if it’s just a typical day, try to keep your communication upbeat. You want your partner to feel energized and excited after you chat (not drained or sullen). And while you don’t want to be frivolous all the time, there’s something to be said for lighthearted communication. If you aren’t sure how to get started:\\nText your SO a picture of yourself genuinely smiling every day.\\nMake them laugh with silly GIFs, videos, and links.\\nCome up with funny or sweet pet names for each other and use them often.\\nReframe the distance between you as a challenge that will make you stronger.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Schedule weekly virtual date nights.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"It’s important to really \\\"see\\\" each other on a regular basis.\", \"描述\": \"Phone calls, DMs, and texts are great, but being able to see your partner’s face on a video call helps you create and maintain a deeper connection. And just because you can’t go on regular dates doesn’t mean you can’t “do” things together! Plan a standing \\\"date\\\" a certain day/time every week. Aim to have a variety of dates: romantic, silly, and casual. Try ideas like:\\nMaking the same food and eating dinner together.\\nStreaming your favorite show at the same time.\\nOnline gaming (World of Warcraft, Minecraft, Fortnite, etc.)\\nDoing laundry or going grocery shopping “together.”\\nTaking a stroll “together” in the park.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Find new ways to share experiences.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Get creative so you’re experiencing a range of emotions as a couple.\", \"描述\": \"There are tons of things you can do “together” to feel closer despite the miles between you. You can read the same book and compare notes later or challenge each other to an online game. Make a playlist together and listen to it at the same time each day. Consider other unique ideas like:\\nExercise together: sign up for a virtual race or follow the same yoga tutorial.\\nGardening: grow the same plants from seed and share images of your progress.\\nLearn something new: take the same online course and do the assignments together.\\nJoint journal: choose an online journal platform and take turns writing entries.\\nHobby switch: try each other’s hobbies for a month.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Swap a few physical belongings.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Having something tangible from your partner is a powerful thing.\", \"描述\": \"What items you exchange is entirely up to you! It’s nice to have a little variety, though: something sexy, something sentimental, something handwritten, etc. Here are a few ideas to get you started:\\nSwap articles of clothing (scarves, T-shirts, undies...your call!)\\nExchange signature scents and spray them on your bed linens.\\nGive each other handwritten letters.\\nSend each other special Polaroid selfies.\\nExchange your favorite books by mail.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Carve out time for sex on a regular basis.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"It's important to meet each other’s physical needs, too.\", \"描述\": \"It’s easy to hyperfocus on the emotional side of things, but sharing sexual experiences together is important to keep your relationship healthy. Sexting, masturbating together, Zoom sex, watching porn, taking a video bath “together,” sending naughty selfies, role-splaying, talking dirty...the possibilities are endless! The most important thing is to connect in a “physical” way regularly.\\nTo keep things interesting, try to have an open mind and explore a variety of sexy adventures with your partner.\\nTalk to your partner about their needs and how often they need to connect physically to feel happy and fulfilled in your relationship.\\nDo your best to meet each other halfway when it comes to experimenting and acting out fantasies.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Plan your visits well in advance.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Always having something to look forward to is priceless.\", \"描述\": \"Pick a regular interval of time that makes sense for both of you (a month, 3 months, 6 months, whatever) and try to avoid going any longer than that without scheduling your next visit. Really throw yourself into planning each visit so you can be excited together as the date gets closer.\\nBoth of you can suggest ideas and switch off taking the lead on planning activities!\\nThat said, be sure to allow for unplanned time together during each visit, too, so you can be spontaneous.\"}]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
6,997 |
How to Bring Back Lydia in Skyrim
|
1. Finding Her when Lost
1-1. Look back to where you last saw her.
Sometimes NPCs may get stuck in particularly rough terrain while following you. Or, she might have been killed (Lydia’s body does not disappear from the place where she died). She might have also been preoccupied with hostile NPCs or enemies, which she may have attacked.
Try to go back on the same route that you took. She might just be slow while running after you, so you might even bump into her when going back to find her!
She will keep fighting even if you run away from enemies.
1-2. Think about whether you told her to stay somewhere or not.
If you tell her to stay in a certain spot, she will stay in that same spot for a few in-game days and won’t move for that time period. It’s easy to forget if you told a follower to stay, so check if you did this.
1-3. Look in Whiterun’s Dragonsreach or Breezehome.
If you wait for more than a few in-game days after telling Lydia to stay in the same spot, she will walk back to Whiterun. She will usually hang around where you found her or she may be near Breezehome, so check those places.
Make sure she follows you once you meet up with her. If there is a dialogue option of “Follow me. I need your help," then click on that. Otherwise, she won’t follow you.
1-4. Use the Detect Life spell.
This Adept spell comes from the Alteration school of magic and can help distinguish and pinpoint enemies and friends if they are nearby. It even works through walls and rooms. Although the spell does not identify specifically what creature/NPC is nearby, blue dots indicate friends and red dots indicate foes. Use this spell to check if Lydia is around you (she will be indicated by a blue dot).
You can get the spell tome as random loot in the first chamber of the Labyrinthian, from Stalleo after completing the quest “Infiltration”.
You can also purchase it from Tolfdir in the College of Winterhold or Wylandriah at the Mistveil Keep.
1-5. Try moving her to you with a console command.
On your keyboard, press the Tilde key ~ located next to the ! mark` key. This will open the console.
Type in this exact code
1-6.
Press the enter key.
Type in this exact code
1-7.
Close the console by pressing the the ~ key that you used to open it, and see if she appears right next to you.
If she doesn’t appear, she is dead. You will have to revive her before moving her to you.
This command does not change her inventory.
1-8. Try alternate console commands.
Unfortunately, these commands will reset her inventory and armor, so if you gave her items in the past, make sure you won’t mind the losses. Here is a list of alternate commands (make sure to type them in exactly as they are, spaces and everything):
a2c94.disable
a2c94.enable
a2c94.moveto player
You have to close the console each time after you put in a command, so don’t put them in all at once.
If she still doesn’t appear after the commands, she is dead and you'll have to revive her first.
2. Reviving Her
2-1. Find her body, if you can.
This will make it easier for you to remove needed items from her inventory if you gave her any (her inventory might reset after resurrection), and make it easier to bring her back to life. This way, you won’t have to worry about console commands that will bring her to you (as explained in the previous part of this article).
When dead, her body will not disappear or move, so go to where you last saw her alive. You cannot use console commands to bring her body to you, unfortunately.
2-2. Revive her using a console command.
Open the console and click on her body. A code will appear. Simply type “resurrect” into the console, press enter, and close the console. She will be resurrected.
This method also works to resurrect other NPCs/characters.
2-3. Revive her using a different console command if you cannot find her body.
Open the console and type in this exact code: a2c94.resurrect
This also works for other followers; just replace “a2c94” with their respective Ref IDs (you don’t have to put the “000” right before every ID). You can find the Ref IDs of NPCs here.
2-4. Check if you have actually revived her if you can't see her body.
If you are successful, after pressing enter, the console will show a string of code that says “Lydia is NOT bleeding out”. Close the console, and she will be alive!
Use console commands (as described in the first part of this article) to bring her to you afterward.
2-5. Clone her regardless of whether or not you can find her body.
This will create a new Lydia and remove the old Lydia. To do this, type in this exact command: player.placeatme a2c8e
Since it’s a new Lydia, her inventory will reset. If you can, take all the items you need from her before doing this.
The new Lydia will automatically be placed next to you.
This can work on other followers too. Replace "a2c8e" with the applicable NPC's Base ID. You can find NPCs' Base and Ref IDs here.
Tips
Always save before using console commands, just in case something goes wrong.
Lydia tends to follow a more simpler path to follow you, so try not to go through mountains ridges and otherwise difficult terrain.
If you killed her yourself, she will not be hostile toward you upon resurrection. Just make sure you ask her to follow you again.
Warnings
Don't rely on console commands all the time to find or revive her. If, for some reason, console commands aren't working, you'll be stuck without Lydia.
Try not to use console commands to bring her to you or revive her when you are on highly sloped or uneven terrain. This might ruin the orientation of her body. Drag her body to a smoother area. As always, save before using any commands!
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:58:46",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Finding Her when Lost\\n1-1. Look back to where you last saw her.\\nSometimes NPCs may get stuck in particularly rough terrain while following you. Or, she might have been killed (Lydia’s body does not disappear from the place where she died). She might have also been preoccupied with hostile NPCs or enemies, which she may have attacked.\\nTry to go back on the same route that you took. She might just be slow while running after you, so you might even bump into her when going back to find her!\\nShe will keep fighting even if you run away from enemies.\\n1-2. Think about whether you told her to stay somewhere or not.\\nIf you tell her to stay in a certain spot, she will stay in that same spot for a few in-game days and won’t move for that time period. It’s easy to forget if you told a follower to stay, so check if you did this.\\n1-3. Look in Whiterun’s Dragonsreach or Breezehome.\\nIf you wait for more than a few in-game days after telling Lydia to stay in the same spot, she will walk back to Whiterun. She will usually hang around where you found her or she may be near Breezehome, so check those places.\\nMake sure she follows you once you meet up with her. If there is a dialogue option of “Follow me. I need your help,\\\" then click on that. Otherwise, she won’t follow you.\\n1-4. Use the Detect Life spell.\\nThis Adept spell comes from the Alteration school of magic and can help distinguish and pinpoint enemies and friends if they are nearby. It even works through walls and rooms. Although the spell does not identify specifically what creature/NPC is nearby, blue dots indicate friends and red dots indicate foes. Use this spell to check if Lydia is around you (she will be indicated by a blue dot).\\nYou can get the spell tome as random loot in the first chamber of the Labyrinthian, from Stalleo after completing the quest “Infiltration”.\\nYou can also purchase it from Tolfdir in the College of Winterhold or Wylandriah at the Mistveil Keep.\\n1-5. Try moving her to you with a console command.\\nOn your keyboard, press the Tilde key ~ located next to the ! mark` key. This will open the console.\\nType in this exact code\\n1-6. \\nPress the enter key.\\nType in this exact code\\n1-7. \\nClose the console by pressing the the ~ key that you used to open it, and see if she appears right next to you.\\nIf she doesn’t appear, she is dead. You will have to revive her before moving her to you.\\nThis command does not change her inventory.\\n1-8. Try alternate console commands.\\nUnfortunately, these commands will reset her inventory and armor, so if you gave her items in the past, make sure you won’t mind the losses. Here is a list of alternate commands (make sure to type them in exactly as they are, spaces and everything):\\na2c94.disable\\na2c94.enable\\na2c94.moveto player\\nYou have to close the console each time after you put in a command, so don’t put them in all at once.\\nIf she still doesn’t appear after the commands, she is dead and you'll have to revive her first.\\n2. Reviving Her\\n2-1. Find her body, if you can.\\nThis will make it easier for you to remove needed items from her inventory if you gave her any (her inventory might reset after resurrection), and make it easier to bring her back to life. This way, you won’t have to worry about console commands that will bring her to you (as explained in the previous part of this article).\\nWhen dead, her body will not disappear or move, so go to where you last saw her alive. You cannot use console commands to bring her body to you, unfortunately.\\n2-2. Revive her using a console command.\\nOpen the console and click on her body. A code will appear. Simply type “resurrect” into the console, press enter, and close the console. She will be resurrected.\\nThis method also works to resurrect other NPCs/characters.\\n2-3. Revive her using a different console command if you cannot find her body.\\nOpen the console and type in this exact code: a2c94.resurrect\\nThis also works for other followers; just replace “a2c94” with their respective Ref IDs (you don’t have to put the “000” right before every ID). You can find the Ref IDs of NPCs here.\\n2-4. Check if you have actually revived her if you can't see her body.\\nIf you are successful, after pressing enter, the console will show a string of code that says “Lydia is NOT bleeding out”. Close the console, and she will be alive!\\nUse console commands (as described in the first part of this article) to bring her to you afterward.\\n2-5. Clone her regardless of whether or not you can find her body.\\nThis will create a new Lydia and remove the old Lydia. To do this, type in this exact command: player.placeatme a2c8e\\nSince it’s a new Lydia, her inventory will reset. If you can, take all the items you need from her before doing this.\\nThe new Lydia will automatically be placed next to you.\\nThis can work on other followers too. Replace \\\"a2c8e\\\" with the applicable NPC's Base ID. You can find NPCs' Base and Ref IDs here.\\nTips\\nAlways save before using console commands, just in case something goes wrong.\\nLydia tends to follow a more simpler path to follow you, so try not to go through mountains ridges and otherwise difficult terrain.\\nIf you killed her yourself, she will not be hostile toward you upon resurrection. Just make sure you ask her to follow you again.\\nWarnings\\nDon't rely on console commands all the time to find or revive her. If, for some reason, console commands aren't working, you'll be stuck without Lydia.\\nTry not to use console commands to bring her to you or revive her when you are on highly sloped or uneven terrain. This might ruin the orientation of her body. Drag her body to a smoother area. As always, save before using any commands!\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Lydia is one of the most commonly known followers in Elder Scrolls V: Skyrim, but she can also be the most difficult to keep track of. She intentionally takes a longer, but less complicated, route to follow you, making it hard for you to know where she is at all times. Unlike some other followers, Lydia is not essential (immortal), and can be killed without you knowing about it. But with her unlimited arrow supply, heavy armor, and the fact that she appears early in the game, she might be worth the trouble for beginner players. Luckily, whether she is lost or dead, you can find and bring back your housecarl with several methods! Note that console commands only work on PC, so you cannot revive her if you’re not using a PC.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Finding Her when Lost\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Look back to where you last saw her.\", \"描述\": \"Sometimes NPCs may get stuck in particularly rough terrain while following you. Or, she might have been killed (Lydia’s body does not disappear from the place where she died). She might have also been preoccupied with hostile NPCs or enemies, which she may have attacked.\\nTry to go back on the same route that you took. She might just be slow while running after you, so you might even bump into her when going back to find her!\\nShe will keep fighting even if you run away from enemies.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Think about whether you told her to stay somewhere or not.\", \"描述\": \"If you tell her to stay in a certain spot, she will stay in that same spot for a few in-game days and won’t move for that time period. It’s easy to forget if you told a follower to stay, so check if you did this.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Look in Whiterun’s Dragonsreach or Breezehome.\", \"描述\": \"If you wait for more than a few in-game days after telling Lydia to stay in the same spot, she will walk back to Whiterun. She will usually hang around where you found her or she may be near Breezehome, so check those places.\\nMake sure she follows you once you meet up with her. If there is a dialogue option of “Follow me. I need your help,\\\" then click on that. Otherwise, she won’t follow you.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Use the Detect Life spell.\", \"描述\": \"This Adept spell comes from the Alteration school of magic and can help distinguish and pinpoint enemies and friends if they are nearby. It even works through walls and rooms. Although the spell does not identify specifically what creature/NPC is nearby, blue dots indicate friends and red dots indicate foes. Use this spell to check if Lydia is around you (she will be indicated by a blue dot).\\nYou can get the spell tome as random loot in the first chamber of the Labyrinthian, from Stalleo after completing the quest “Infiltration”.\\nYou can also purchase it from Tolfdir in the College of Winterhold or Wylandriah at the Mistveil Keep.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Try moving her to you with a console command.\", \"描述\": \"On your keyboard, press the Tilde key ~ located next to the ! mark` key. This will open the console.\\nType in this exact code\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"\", \"描述\": \"Press the enter key.\\nType in this exact code\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"\", \"描述\": \"Close the console by pressing the the ~ key that you used to open it, and see if she appears right next to you.\\nIf she doesn’t appear, she is dead. You will have to revive her before moving her to you.\\nThis command does not change her inventory.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Try alternate console commands.\", \"描述\": \"Unfortunately, these commands will reset her inventory and armor, so if you gave her items in the past, make sure you won’t mind the losses. Here is a list of alternate commands (make sure to type them in exactly as they are, spaces and everything):\\na2c94.disable\\na2c94.enable\\na2c94.moveto player\\nYou have to close the console each time after you put in a command, so don’t put them in all at once.\\nIf she still doesn’t appear after the commands, she is dead and you'll have to revive her first.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Reviving Her\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Find her body, if you can.\", \"描述\": \"This will make it easier for you to remove needed items from her inventory if you gave her any (her inventory might reset after resurrection), and make it easier to bring her back to life. This way, you won’t have to worry about console commands that will bring her to you (as explained in the previous part of this article).\\nWhen dead, her body will not disappear or move, so go to where you last saw her alive. You cannot use console commands to bring her body to you, unfortunately.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Revive her using a console command.\", \"描述\": \"Open the console and click on her body. A code will appear. Simply type “resurrect” into the console, press enter, and close the console. She will be resurrected.\\nThis method also works to resurrect other NPCs/characters.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Revive her using a different console command if you cannot find her body.\", \"描述\": \"Open the console and type in this exact code: a2c94.resurrect\\nThis also works for other followers; just replace “a2c94” with their respective Ref IDs (you don’t have to put the “000” right before every ID). You can find the Ref IDs of NPCs here.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Check if you have actually revived her if you can't see her body.\", \"描述\": \"If you are successful, after pressing enter, the console will show a string of code that says “Lydia is NOT bleeding out”. Close the console, and she will be alive!\\nUse console commands (as described in the first part of this article) to bring her to you afterward.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Clone her regardless of whether or not you can find her body.\", \"描述\": \"This will create a new Lydia and remove the old Lydia. To do this, type in this exact command: player.placeatme a2c8e\\nSince it’s a new Lydia, her inventory will reset. If you can, take all the items you need from her before doing this.\\nThe new Lydia will automatically be placed next to you.\\nThis can work on other followers too. Replace \\\"a2c8e\\\" with the applicable NPC's Base ID. You can find NPCs' Base and Ref IDs here.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Always save before using console commands, just in case something goes wrong.\\n\", \"Lydia tends to follow a more simpler path to follow you, so try not to go through mountains ridges and otherwise difficult terrain.\\n\", \"If you killed her yourself, she will not be hostile toward you upon resurrection. Just make sure you ask her to follow you again.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Don't rely on console commands all the time to find or revive her. If, for some reason, console commands aren't working, you'll be stuck without Lydia.\\n\", \"Try not to use console commands to bring her to you or revive her when you are on highly sloped or uneven terrain. This might ruin the orientation of her body. Drag her body to a smoother area. As always, save before using any commands!\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
6,998 |
How to Bring Back the Viridian City Gym Leader in Fire Red
|
1. Steps
1-1. When you are in Celadon City, go to the Rocket Game Corner.
Beat the Team Rocket Grunt guarding the poster. Go in front of the poster, then press A to activate the secret switch.
1-2. Go down the stairs that appear to go to the Team Rocket hideout.
Go through the spinning puzzles until you find the Lift Key that turns on the elevator. From there, you'll be able to find Giovanni. Defeat him to get the Silph Scope.
1-3. Go to the Pokémon Tower in Lavender Town, where you'll find Team Rocket Grunts at the top floor.
Defeat them, then talk to Mr. Fuji to go back to his house and get the Poke Flute.
1-4. When you have the tea from the lady in Celadon Mansion, go to the Silph Co.
building in Saffron City and defeat Giovanni. You'll get the Master Ball from the Silph Co. president.
1-5. Defeat the remaining gym leaders until you have 7 badges.
1-6. Go to the Viridian City Gym and it will be open.
It's a Ground-type Gym and the leader is Giovanni. He uses a level 45 Rhyhorn, a level 42 Dugtrio, a level 44 Nidoqueen, a level 45 Nidoking, and a level 50 Rhyhorn. Defeat him to get the Earth Badge and the TM for Earthquake.
Tips
Use a Water or Grass-type Pokémon against his Ground-types. You'll also want a Psychic or Ground-type of your own for Nidoqueen and Nidoking.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:58:46",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. When you are in Celadon City, go to the Rocket Game Corner.\\nBeat the Team Rocket Grunt guarding the poster. Go in front of the poster, then press A to activate the secret switch.\\n1-2. Go down the stairs that appear to go to the Team Rocket hideout.\\nGo through the spinning puzzles until you find the Lift Key that turns on the elevator. From there, you'll be able to find Giovanni. Defeat him to get the Silph Scope.\\n1-3. Go to the Pokémon Tower in Lavender Town, where you'll find Team Rocket Grunts at the top floor.\\nDefeat them, then talk to Mr. Fuji to go back to his house and get the Poke Flute.\\n1-4. When you have the tea from the lady in Celadon Mansion, go to the Silph Co.\\nbuilding in Saffron City and defeat Giovanni. You'll get the Master Ball from the Silph Co. president.\\n1-5. Defeat the remaining gym leaders until you have 7 badges.\\n\\n1-6. Go to the Viridian City Gym and it will be open.\\nIt's a Ground-type Gym and the leader is Giovanni. He uses a level 45 Rhyhorn, a level 42 Dugtrio, a level 44 Nidoqueen, a level 45 Nidoking, and a level 50 Rhyhorn. Defeat him to get the Earth Badge and the TM for Earthquake.\\nTips\\nUse a Water or Grass-type Pokémon against his Ground-types. You'll also want a Psychic or Ground-type of your own for Nidoqueen and Nidoking.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"When you first get to Viridian City, you'll find that the gym is locked because the gym leader is not there. This article will show how to get him back.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"When you are in Celadon City, go to the Rocket Game Corner.\", \"描述\": \"Beat the Team Rocket Grunt guarding the poster. Go in front of the poster, then press A to activate the secret switch.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Go down the stairs that appear to go to the Team Rocket hideout.\", \"描述\": \"Go through the spinning puzzles until you find the Lift Key that turns on the elevator. From there, you'll be able to find Giovanni. Defeat him to get the Silph Scope.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Go to the Pokémon Tower in Lavender Town, where you'll find Team Rocket Grunts at the top floor.\", \"描述\": \"Defeat them, then talk to Mr. Fuji to go back to his house and get the Poke Flute.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"When you have the tea from the lady in Celadon Mansion, go to the Silph Co.\", \"描述\": \"building in Saffron City and defeat Giovanni. You'll get the Master Ball from the Silph Co. president.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Defeat the remaining gym leaders until you have 7 badges.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Go to the Viridian City Gym and it will be open.\", \"描述\": \"It's a Ground-type Gym and the leader is Giovanni. He uses a level 45 Rhyhorn, a level 42 Dugtrio, a level 44 Nidoqueen, a level 45 Nidoking, and a level 50 Rhyhorn. Defeat him to get the Earth Badge and the TM for Earthquake.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Use a Water or Grass-type Pokémon against his Ground-types. You'll also want a Psychic or Ground-type of your own for Nidoqueen and Nidoking.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
6,999 |
How to Bring Discipline into Your Life
|
1. Self analysis
1-1. Analyze yourself first.
Work out what things stand in the way of you being more disciplined at the moment. They may be character flaws, an inability to articulate what you want out of life or a preference for losing yourself in stimulants or addictions. Perhaps you conform too much without thinking for yourself; this can make it easy to follow someone else's ideas of discipline without working out discipline that works for you and fulfills your own real needs. Whatever the reason, try to determine it first.
Why do you feel you are not disciplined enough now? What are the factors standing in the way of you being more disciplined?
Journal about your thoughts so you have a chance to comprehend them better.
As well as assessing your own limitations, consider how others in your life impact you. Are you pleasing others too much to spend time on yourself? Are you always giving in to other people's wants and letting yours go by the wayside?
1-2. Seek to convince yourself that you want to learn discipline for the purpose of believing in yourself.
This is especially important if you spend a lot of time just pleasing others. It will be a lot more difficult to stay disciplined if you feel you need others to form boundaries for you or to tell you how to act and think or what to do.
What voices in your head tell you that you're unworthy or a failure? These are negative thoughts that have no basis and need to be tackled in order to introduce self care and discipline in your life. You may need counseling or it could be sufficient for you to work through your negative thoughts using mindfulness or cognitive behavioral techniques.
2. Incorporating more discipline into your life
2-1. Choose an area in which to be more disciplined.
In what area do you want to be more disciplined? Maybe it's work, studies, staying clean, not following a bad habit, etc.
2-2. Adopt a positive attitude.
Decide that you will make the changes needed and seek to remain focused on these. Realize that this isn't going to be easy but treat it as a good challenge, not a source of difficulty or deprivation. Once you make the decision to do something, follow through no matter what. Often there will be moments when a lazy desire comes out and inhibits your work. Remember that these feelings are normal, and even the biggest achievers have them. The difference with them is not that they are somehow "better" than you. They just have a habit of catching these moments and deflecting them before they become significant.
Accept that you are the person who brings change about in your life, not anyone else. You're not a three year old who needs direction. Seize the day and do what needs to be done.
Normal routine is comfortable and known. Hence, it will likely draw you back in. Use cues to remind yourself that you're falling back into old habits and make decisions to stop each time.
Try to read and listen to a lot of positive content, such as self-help books or podcasts.
2-3. Choose to behave and act with temperance.
Human behavioral traits are influenced by cultures, divergent attitudes, emotions, different values, and other social norms within a person's group or community. Be sure to behave politely and with a common sense in all situations.
2-4. Learn the basics of self-management.
From budgeting your finances to organizing a get-together, you will need to learn how to manage certain things on your own. It certainly doesn't entail the starting of a Fortune 500 company, but simply a sense of order in life. Do more things at a certain time, and start small. For example, take lunch after 12:00 PM and dinner after 8:00 PM.
Plan your work. Make a timetable and follow it assiduously.
Divide work into small and achievable pieces.
Sit for no more than an hour at a time. Get up, stretch and walk around. Give your body and your mind a break. You will come back to any task refreshed and physically relaxed.
2-5. Keep yourself neat and clean.
This will not only benefit you, but it will also make you feel good. Cleanliness makes a big difference in how you feel emotionally and it will make your environment better and fresher for you. There are many articles on how to accomplish this available on this site and elsewhere
2-6. Use appropriate gestures.
Communicate eloquently and assertively, and use appropriate gestures when there is a need to do so. Do not shout or use intensifiers in your speech. Discipline in the subtle arts of communication can make a difference in the discipline you exhibit in the more noticeable areas of your life.
2-7. Realize that others may try to deter you.
There will always be someone who benefits from your lack of discipline and when you make it clear that you're changing this, it threatens them. Be alert to attempts to divert you from your new path and desire to stick to it. Listen to them, be polite but don't act on their delay or diversion tactics. Stick with what you know is better for you.
2-8. Once you learn to do something correctly, keep doing it.
Make your regular routines as automatic as breathing.
Include rewards for achieving goals.
Tips
You can never be a self-disciplinarian. Be a disciple of self-discipline and it will be a quality in you.
Self discipline is not at you, it is in you. It is a quality, not a quantity. It can be brought in life, not bought in life.
Keep yourself motivated, by reminding yourself of your reasons to go on.
Warnings
Avoid burnout. Take things step-by-step rather than all at once. Even the slightest things can become backbreaking when piled up on one another.
Try not to preach or pick at others for what may seem like a lack of discipline on their part. If what they fail to accomplish does affect you in some way, have a gentle talk with them. If it doesn't, let them deal with their own problems. You cannot change others, only yourself.
Don't overdo it. Signs of Obsessive Compulsive Disorder (OCD) can occur in people who feel the need to put routine over common sense and well-being. If your routines startle or annoy others, that may be a sign to slow down.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:58:46",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Self analysis\\n1-1. Analyze yourself first.\\nWork out what things stand in the way of you being more disciplined at the moment. They may be character flaws, an inability to articulate what you want out of life or a preference for losing yourself in stimulants or addictions. Perhaps you conform too much without thinking for yourself; this can make it easy to follow someone else's ideas of discipline without working out discipline that works for you and fulfills your own real needs. Whatever the reason, try to determine it first.\\nWhy do you feel you are not disciplined enough now? What are the factors standing in the way of you being more disciplined?\\nJournal about your thoughts so you have a chance to comprehend them better.\\nAs well as assessing your own limitations, consider how others in your life impact you. Are you pleasing others too much to spend time on yourself? Are you always giving in to other people's wants and letting yours go by the wayside?\\n1-2. Seek to convince yourself that you want to learn discipline for the purpose of believing in yourself.\\nThis is especially important if you spend a lot of time just pleasing others. It will be a lot more difficult to stay disciplined if you feel you need others to form boundaries for you or to tell you how to act and think or what to do.\\nWhat voices in your head tell you that you're unworthy or a failure? These are negative thoughts that have no basis and need to be tackled in order to introduce self care and discipline in your life. You may need counseling or it could be sufficient for you to work through your negative thoughts using mindfulness or cognitive behavioral techniques.\\n2. Incorporating more discipline into your life\\n2-1. Choose an area in which to be more disciplined.\\nIn what area do you want to be more disciplined? Maybe it's work, studies, staying clean, not following a bad habit, etc.\\n2-2. Adopt a positive attitude.\\nDecide that you will make the changes needed and seek to remain focused on these. Realize that this isn't going to be easy but treat it as a good challenge, not a source of difficulty or deprivation. Once you make the decision to do something, follow through no matter what. Often there will be moments when a lazy desire comes out and inhibits your work. Remember that these feelings are normal, and even the biggest achievers have them. The difference with them is not that they are somehow \\\"better\\\" than you. They just have a habit of catching these moments and deflecting them before they become significant.\\nAccept that you are the person who brings change about in your life, not anyone else. You're not a three year old who needs direction. Seize the day and do what needs to be done.\\nNormal routine is comfortable and known. Hence, it will likely draw you back in. Use cues to remind yourself that you're falling back into old habits and make decisions to stop each time.\\nTry to read and listen to a lot of positive content, such as self-help books or podcasts.\\n2-3. Choose to behave and act with temperance.\\nHuman behavioral traits are influenced by cultures, divergent attitudes, emotions, different values, and other social norms within a person's group or community. Be sure to behave politely and with a common sense in all situations.\\n2-4. Learn the basics of self-management.\\nFrom budgeting your finances to organizing a get-together, you will need to learn how to manage certain things on your own. It certainly doesn't entail the starting of a Fortune 500 company, but simply a sense of order in life. Do more things at a certain time, and start small. For example, take lunch after 12:00 PM and dinner after 8:00 PM. \\nPlan your work. Make a timetable and follow it assiduously.\\nDivide work into small and achievable pieces.\\nSit for no more than an hour at a time. Get up, stretch and walk around. Give your body and your mind a break. You will come back to any task refreshed and physically relaxed.\\n2-5. Keep yourself neat and clean.\\nThis will not only benefit you, but it will also make you feel good. Cleanliness makes a big difference in how you feel emotionally and it will make your environment better and fresher for you. There are many articles on how to accomplish this available on this site and elsewhere\\n2-6. Use appropriate gestures.\\nCommunicate eloquently and assertively, and use appropriate gestures when there is a need to do so. Do not shout or use intensifiers in your speech. Discipline in the subtle arts of communication can make a difference in the discipline you exhibit in the more noticeable areas of your life.\\n2-7. Realize that others may try to deter you.\\nThere will always be someone who benefits from your lack of discipline and when you make it clear that you're changing this, it threatens them. Be alert to attempts to divert you from your new path and desire to stick to it. Listen to them, be polite but don't act on their delay or diversion tactics. Stick with what you know is better for you.\\n2-8. Once you learn to do something correctly, keep doing it.\\nMake your regular routines as automatic as breathing.\\nInclude rewards for achieving goals.\\nTips\\nYou can never be a self-disciplinarian. Be a disciple of self-discipline and it will be a quality in you.\\nSelf discipline is not at you, it is in you. It is a quality, not a quantity. It can be brought in life, not bought in life.\\nKeep yourself motivated, by reminding yourself of your reasons to go on.\\nWarnings\\nAvoid burnout. Take things step-by-step rather than all at once. Even the slightest things can become backbreaking when piled up on one another.\\nTry not to preach or pick at others for what may seem like a lack of discipline on their part. If what they fail to accomplish does affect you in some way, have a gentle talk with them. If it doesn't, let them deal with their own problems. You cannot change others, only yourself.\\nDon't overdo it. Signs of Obsessive Compulsive Disorder (OCD) can occur in people who feel the need to put routine over common sense and well-being. If your routines startle or annoy others, that may be a sign to slow down.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"This article seeks to bring discipline to life in general. Discipline must not be restricted to a child's discipline, and becoming an adult does not make anyone a disciplinarian. Discipline does not indicate punishment, enforcement, or a strict environment. It is possible for anyone to be a disciple of discipline.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Self analysis\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Analyze yourself first.\", \"描述\": \"Work out what things stand in the way of you being more disciplined at the moment. They may be character flaws, an inability to articulate what you want out of life or a preference for losing yourself in stimulants or addictions. Perhaps you conform too much without thinking for yourself; this can make it easy to follow someone else's ideas of discipline without working out discipline that works for you and fulfills your own real needs. Whatever the reason, try to determine it first.\\nWhy do you feel you are not disciplined enough now? What are the factors standing in the way of you being more disciplined?\\nJournal about your thoughts so you have a chance to comprehend them better.\\nAs well as assessing your own limitations, consider how others in your life impact you. Are you pleasing others too much to spend time on yourself? Are you always giving in to other people's wants and letting yours go by the wayside?\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Seek to convince yourself that you want to learn discipline for the purpose of believing in yourself.\", \"描述\": \"This is especially important if you spend a lot of time just pleasing others. It will be a lot more difficult to stay disciplined if you feel you need others to form boundaries for you or to tell you how to act and think or what to do.\\nWhat voices in your head tell you that you're unworthy or a failure? These are negative thoughts that have no basis and need to be tackled in order to introduce self care and discipline in your life. You may need counseling or it could be sufficient for you to work through your negative thoughts using mindfulness or cognitive behavioral techniques.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Incorporating more discipline into your life\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Choose an area in which to be more disciplined.\", \"描述\": \"In what area do you want to be more disciplined? Maybe it's work, studies, staying clean, not following a bad habit, etc.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Adopt a positive attitude.\", \"描述\": \"Decide that you will make the changes needed and seek to remain focused on these. Realize that this isn't going to be easy but treat it as a good challenge, not a source of difficulty or deprivation. Once you make the decision to do something, follow through no matter what. Often there will be moments when a lazy desire comes out and inhibits your work. Remember that these feelings are normal, and even the biggest achievers have them. The difference with them is not that they are somehow \\\"better\\\" than you. They just have a habit of catching these moments and deflecting them before they become significant.\\nAccept that you are the person who brings change about in your life, not anyone else. You're not a three year old who needs direction. Seize the day and do what needs to be done.\\nNormal routine is comfortable and known. Hence, it will likely draw you back in. Use cues to remind yourself that you're falling back into old habits and make decisions to stop each time.\\nTry to read and listen to a lot of positive content, such as self-help books or podcasts.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Choose to behave and act with temperance.\", \"描述\": \"Human behavioral traits are influenced by cultures, divergent attitudes, emotions, different values, and other social norms within a person's group or community. Be sure to behave politely and with a common sense in all situations.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Learn the basics of self-management.\", \"描述\": \"From budgeting your finances to organizing a get-together, you will need to learn how to manage certain things on your own. It certainly doesn't entail the starting of a Fortune 500 company, but simply a sense of order in life. Do more things at a certain time, and start small. For example, take lunch after 12:00 PM and dinner after 8:00 PM. \\nPlan your work. Make a timetable and follow it assiduously.\\nDivide work into small and achievable pieces.\\nSit for no more than an hour at a time. Get up, stretch and walk around. Give your body and your mind a break. You will come back to any task refreshed and physically relaxed.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Keep yourself neat and clean.\", \"描述\": \"This will not only benefit you, but it will also make you feel good. Cleanliness makes a big difference in how you feel emotionally and it will make your environment better and fresher for you. There are many articles on how to accomplish this available on this site and elsewhere\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Use appropriate gestures.\", \"描述\": \"Communicate eloquently and assertively, and use appropriate gestures when there is a need to do so. Do not shout or use intensifiers in your speech. Discipline in the subtle arts of communication can make a difference in the discipline you exhibit in the more noticeable areas of your life.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Realize that others may try to deter you.\", \"描述\": \"There will always be someone who benefits from your lack of discipline and when you make it clear that you're changing this, it threatens them. Be alert to attempts to divert you from your new path and desire to stick to it. Listen to them, be polite but don't act on their delay or diversion tactics. Stick with what you know is better for you.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Once you learn to do something correctly, keep doing it.\", \"描述\": \"Make your regular routines as automatic as breathing.\\nInclude rewards for achieving goals.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"You can never be a self-disciplinarian. Be a disciple of self-discipline and it will be a quality in you.\\n\", \"Self discipline is not at you, it is in you. It is a quality, not a quantity. It can be brought in life, not bought in life.\\n\", \"Keep yourself motivated, by reminding yourself of your reasons to go on.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Avoid burnout. Take things step-by-step rather than all at once. Even the slightest things can become backbreaking when piled up on one another.\\n\", \"Try not to preach or pick at others for what may seem like a lack of discipline on their part. If what they fail to accomplish does affect you in some way, have a gentle talk with them. If it doesn't, let them deal with their own problems. You cannot change others, only yourself.\\n\", \"Don't overdo it. Signs of Obsessive Compulsive Disorder (OCD) can occur in people who feel the need to put routine over common sense and well-being. If your routines startle or annoy others, that may be a sign to slow down.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,000 |
Managing High Creatinine: 15 Options
|
1. Address and treat the underlying problem.
High creatinine levels are usually caused by an underlying condition.
To reduce your creatinine levels permanently and improve your overall health, work with your doctor to find the underlying problem and remedy that. Some common causes of high creatinine levels include:
Kidney disease
Damage to the kidneys due to diabetes or high blood pressure
Certain medications that affect kidney function
Dehydration
Heart failure
Gout
Intense exercise over a long period of time
2. Watch your fluid intake.
Ask your doctor how much water you should drink daily.
Experts usually recommend drinking at least eight, 8 fluid ounces (240 mL) glasses of water each day to help keep your kidneys healthy and functioning properly. Your exact needs may vary depending on factors like your age, sex, overall health, and activity level. Dehydration can cause your creatinine levels to increase, so staying hydrated is important.
If you’re on dialysis for severe kidney disease, talk to your doctor about how much water and other fluids you can safely drink. You may need to restrict your fluids and follow other special dietary requirements.
3. Get plenty of high-quality sleep.
Getting too little sleep is bad for your kidneys.
If your sleep is frequently interrupted, or if you get fewer than 6 hours of sleep per night, it may impact your kidney health and cause your creatinine levels to rise. Boost your overall health by aiming to get about 7 to 9 hours of good-quality sleep every night.
If you have a hard time sleeping at night, talk to your doctor. They may be able to recommend changes to your bedtime routine or even prescribe a supplement or medication that can help.
4. Discuss herbal remedies with your doctor.
Some herbs and supplements might support better kidney function.
While there’s not a lot of evidence to support herbal remedies, it’s possible that some herbs can help lower creatinine levels and improve your kidney health. Always talk to your doctor before trying any kind of new supplement, especially if you have a history of kidney problems or other serious health issues. Some herbs that may help include:
Green tea. While there isn’t a lot of data to support this yet, some studies suggest that green tea extract may improve kidney function and reduce creatinine levels.
Chamomile tea. While it’s unclear why chamomile reduces creatinine levels, some medical experts speculate that it may be due to chamomile’s antioxidant properties.
Dandelion leaf extract. It’s possible that dandelion leaf can help improve kidney health and reduce creatinine levels. However, be careful using dandelion supplements if you have kidney disease, since they are high in potassium.
Salvia supplements may improve kidney function and bring your creatinine levels down.
Some types of nettle supplements may help lower creatinine levels. However, if you have kidney disease, . These supplements are high in phosphorous and potassium, so they could do more harm than good.
5. Limit your sodium intake.
Too much salt in your diet can raise your creatinine levels.
Excess sodium is tough on your kidneys. It can also contribute to other issues, like high blood pressure and fluid retention. If your creatinine levels are too high, cutting back on salt may help.
Talk to your doctor about starting a low-sodium diet. Unless they recommend otherwise, stay away from salty foods and drinks, and opt for low-sodium versions of common food products (canned soup, bottled sauces, etc.) when you can.
When you’re cooking, replace salt with other flavorful seasonings, such as garlic, paprika, or lemon zest.
The FDA recommends eating no more than 2,300 mg of salt per day.
6. Keep an eye on your protein intake.
A high-protein diet can raise your creatinine levels.
Eating lots of cooked meats or other high-protein foods can cause creatinine to build up in your body. If you’re concerned about the amount of protein you’re eating, talk to your doctor. They may recommend switching to a low-protein diet if you have kidney disease.
Don’t make any drastic changes to your protein intake without getting advice from your doctor. Protein is important for keeping up your energy levels and maintaining healthy muscles.
7. Eat more plant-based foods.
A diet rich in fruits and vegetables may boost your kidney health.
Some experts recommend vegetarian diets to bring down high levels of creatinine and reduce the risk of kidney disease. However, talk to your doctor about the possible risks and benefits before going vegetarian. Increasing your intake of fruits and vegetables without completely cutting meat out of your diet may be enough to improve your kidney health.
If you do switch to a vegetarian diet, you may need to take supplements, such as vitamin B 12, to make sure you’re still getting all the vitamins and minerals you need.
Your doctor can also help you choose healthy, plant-based sources of protein.
8. Avoid phosphorus-rich foods.
Your kidneys may have a hard time processing phosphorus.
If your high creatinine levels are caused by kidney disease, cutting back on phosphorous may help. Ask your doctor if a low-phosphorous diet is a good idea for you. Foods high in phosphorous include:
Highly processed foods, such as fast food or pre-packaged convenience foods
Some types of cheese, including canned or jarred cheese spreads, American cheese, and blocks of processed deli cheese
Meats with added fluids or flavoring (e.g., pre-brined or marinated meats and processed deli meats)
Many sodas, sports drinks, energy drinks, and other pre-packaged beverages
Dairy products
Chocolate and caramel
Quickbreads and similar baked goods, such as biscuits, muffins, and cornbread
9. Talk to your doctor about your potassium levels.
Kidney disease can lead to a potassium imbalance.
Kidney problems may change the way your body processes potassium. If your creatinine levels are too high, there’s a good chance your potassium levels may be too high as well. While changing the amount of potassium in your diet won’t have a direct impact on your creatinine levels, your doctor may still recommend either increasing or decreasing potassium in your diet to help improve your kidney health.
If your doctor recommends a low-potassium diet, stay away from foods such as dried fruits, bananas, melons, legumes (peas and beans), bran products, and many types of greens. Some kinds of meats, such as beef, chicken, and salmon, are also high in potassium.
Low-potassium foods include fruits such as apples, berries, grapes, pears, and pineapples, as well as vegetables such as cabbage, cauliflower, raw broccoli, asparagus, cucumber, and kale. Pasta, rice, and white bread are also low in potassium.
Getting either too much or too little potassium can be dangerous if you have kidney problems, so don’t try to guess your dietary needs.
10. Be careful when using creatine supplements.
These supplements help build muscle by raising creatinine levels.
If you follow the recommended dose of these supplements, it’s unlikely that they’ll cause any problems. However, going over the recommended dose can cause elevated creatinine levels. Ask your doctor if you should cut back on creatinine supplements or stop taking them.
Since high creatinine levels aren’t harmful on their own, this may not be a serious issue for you. However, if you’re already concerned about your kidney health, it may be better to avoid these supplements so they don’t affect the results of any prescribed creatinine tests.
If you have kidney disease, it’s possible that creatinine supplements could make your kidney function issues worse. However, they’re generally considered safe for people with healthy kidneys.
11. Tell your doctor if you’re taking certain medications.
Some medications can elevate your creatinine levels.
High creatinine levels aren’t always a sign of kidney damage. Some drugs can also raise the amount of creatinine in your blood. While this side effect isn’t harmful, it can be a problem if you’re trying to get an accurate evaluation of your kidney function. Let your doctor know if you’re taking:
Cimetidine, a drug used to treat ulcers and heartburn
Trimethoprim, a type of antibiotic
Pyrimethamine, an antiparasitic drug
Salicylates, such as aspirin, Tylenol (acetaminophen), or ibuprofen
Corticosteroids
Some types of vitamin D supplements
Phenacemide, a type of anticonvulsant medication
Keep in mind that some medications (such as certain antibiotics and painkillers) can also be harmful to your kidneys, so talk to your doctor about the risks and benefits of taking any medication if you have high creatinine due to kidney disease.
12. Check into medications that may help.
Some medications may help lower your creatinine levels.
Most of these medications treat the underlying cause of your high creatinine levels rather than directly reducing creatinine in your body. Your doctor will need to find out why your creatinine is elevated before they can prescribe anything. For example:
Medications that control your blood sugar, such as repaglinide, may help improve your kidney function if your high creatinine levels are caused by diabetes.
High blood pressure can damage your kidneys, causing your creatinine levels to rise. If high blood pressure is the culprit, your doctor may prescribe a medication such as benazepril to reduce blood pressure and protect your kidneys.
13. Talk to your doctor about safe exercise levels.
Strenuous exercise can increase creatinine levels.
During an intense workout, your muscles break down a little bit, releasing creatinine into the bloodstream. While that’s not necessarily a problem, it can make your creatinine levels look a little higher than normal on a creatinine test. Talk to your doctor about what level of exercise is safe for you.
Don’t avoid exercise altogether just because you’re worried about your creatinine levels! Instead, have a conversation with your doctor about your concerns. Some studies suggest that getting plenty of exercise is good for your kidneys and can reduce your creatinine levels in the long run.
14. Research cold laser therapy to treat kidney disease.
Cold laser therapy may improve your kidney function.
Some evidence suggests that cold laser or low-level laser therapy can revitalize the kidneys and improve their overall functioning abilities. As a result, your kidneys become more capable of filtering out creatinine naturally.Ask your doctor if this is a good option for you.
15. Discuss dialysis for severe kidney disease.
This may be a good option for high creatinine due to kidney disease.
If you have severe kidney disease or kidney failure, your doctor may recommend dialysis. This treatment helps filter your blood and remove toxins when your kidneys are too badly damaged to do it on their own.
Your doctor will monitor your creatinine levels to determine whether you’re a good candidate for dialysis or if less aggressive treatments are sufficient.
Warnings
Always consult a doctor before deciding on a course of treatment. Every individual has different health needs, so these guidelines may not work for everyone. Some could even cause a decline in overall health depending on your own specific circumstances.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:58:46",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Address and treat the underlying problem.\\nHigh creatinine levels are usually caused by an underlying condition.\\nTo reduce your creatinine levels permanently and improve your overall health, work with your doctor to find the underlying problem and remedy that. Some common causes of high creatinine levels include:\\nKidney disease\\nDamage to the kidneys due to diabetes or high blood pressure\\nCertain medications that affect kidney function\\nDehydration\\nHeart failure\\nGout\\nIntense exercise over a long period of time\\n2. Watch your fluid intake.\\nAsk your doctor how much water you should drink daily.\\nExperts usually recommend drinking at least eight, 8 fluid ounces (240 mL) glasses of water each day to help keep your kidneys healthy and functioning properly. Your exact needs may vary depending on factors like your age, sex, overall health, and activity level. Dehydration can cause your creatinine levels to increase, so staying hydrated is important.\\nIf you’re on dialysis for severe kidney disease, talk to your doctor about how much water and other fluids you can safely drink. You may need to restrict your fluids and follow other special dietary requirements.\\n3. Get plenty of high-quality sleep.\\nGetting too little sleep is bad for your kidneys.\\nIf your sleep is frequently interrupted, or if you get fewer than 6 hours of sleep per night, it may impact your kidney health and cause your creatinine levels to rise. Boost your overall health by aiming to get about 7 to 9 hours of good-quality sleep every night.\\nIf you have a hard time sleeping at night, talk to your doctor. They may be able to recommend changes to your bedtime routine or even prescribe a supplement or medication that can help.\\n4. Discuss herbal remedies with your doctor.\\nSome herbs and supplements might support better kidney function.\\nWhile there’s not a lot of evidence to support herbal remedies, it’s possible that some herbs can help lower creatinine levels and improve your kidney health. Always talk to your doctor before trying any kind of new supplement, especially if you have a history of kidney problems or other serious health issues. Some herbs that may help include: \\nGreen tea. While there isn’t a lot of data to support this yet, some studies suggest that green tea extract may improve kidney function and reduce creatinine levels.\\nChamomile tea. While it’s unclear why chamomile reduces creatinine levels, some medical experts speculate that it may be due to chamomile’s antioxidant properties.\\nDandelion leaf extract. It’s possible that dandelion leaf can help improve kidney health and reduce creatinine levels. However, be careful using dandelion supplements if you have kidney disease, since they are high in potassium.\\nSalvia supplements may improve kidney function and bring your creatinine levels down.\\nSome types of nettle supplements may help lower creatinine levels. However, if you have kidney disease, . These supplements are high in phosphorous and potassium, so they could do more harm than good.\\n5. Limit your sodium intake.\\nToo much salt in your diet can raise your creatinine levels.\\nExcess sodium is tough on your kidneys. It can also contribute to other issues, like high blood pressure and fluid retention. If your creatinine levels are too high, cutting back on salt may help.\\nTalk to your doctor about starting a low-sodium diet. Unless they recommend otherwise, stay away from salty foods and drinks, and opt for low-sodium versions of common food products (canned soup, bottled sauces, etc.) when you can.\\nWhen you’re cooking, replace salt with other flavorful seasonings, such as garlic, paprika, or lemon zest.\\nThe FDA recommends eating no more than 2,300 mg of salt per day.\\n6. Keep an eye on your protein intake.\\nA high-protein diet can raise your creatinine levels.\\nEating lots of cooked meats or other high-protein foods can cause creatinine to build up in your body. If you’re concerned about the amount of protein you’re eating, talk to your doctor. They may recommend switching to a low-protein diet if you have kidney disease.\\nDon’t make any drastic changes to your protein intake without getting advice from your doctor. Protein is important for keeping up your energy levels and maintaining healthy muscles.\\n7. Eat more plant-based foods.\\nA diet rich in fruits and vegetables may boost your kidney health.\\nSome experts recommend vegetarian diets to bring down high levels of creatinine and reduce the risk of kidney disease. However, talk to your doctor about the possible risks and benefits before going vegetarian. Increasing your intake of fruits and vegetables without completely cutting meat out of your diet may be enough to improve your kidney health.\\nIf you do switch to a vegetarian diet, you may need to take supplements, such as vitamin B 12, to make sure you’re still getting all the vitamins and minerals you need.\\nYour doctor can also help you choose healthy, plant-based sources of protein.\\n8. Avoid phosphorus-rich foods.\\nYour kidneys may have a hard time processing phosphorus.\\nIf your high creatinine levels are caused by kidney disease, cutting back on phosphorous may help. Ask your doctor if a low-phosphorous diet is a good idea for you. Foods high in phosphorous include:\\nHighly processed foods, such as fast food or pre-packaged convenience foods\\nSome types of cheese, including canned or jarred cheese spreads, American cheese, and blocks of processed deli cheese\\nMeats with added fluids or flavoring (e.g., pre-brined or marinated meats and processed deli meats)\\nMany sodas, sports drinks, energy drinks, and other pre-packaged beverages\\nDairy products\\nChocolate and caramel\\nQuickbreads and similar baked goods, such as biscuits, muffins, and cornbread\\n9. Talk to your doctor about your potassium levels.\\nKidney disease can lead to a potassium imbalance.\\nKidney problems may change the way your body processes potassium. If your creatinine levels are too high, there’s a good chance your potassium levels may be too high as well. While changing the amount of potassium in your diet won’t have a direct impact on your creatinine levels, your doctor may still recommend either increasing or decreasing potassium in your diet to help improve your kidney health.\\nIf your doctor recommends a low-potassium diet, stay away from foods such as dried fruits, bananas, melons, legumes (peas and beans), bran products, and many types of greens. Some kinds of meats, such as beef, chicken, and salmon, are also high in potassium.\\nLow-potassium foods include fruits such as apples, berries, grapes, pears, and pineapples, as well as vegetables such as cabbage, cauliflower, raw broccoli, asparagus, cucumber, and kale. Pasta, rice, and white bread are also low in potassium.\\n Getting either too much or too little potassium can be dangerous if you have kidney problems, so don’t try to guess your dietary needs.\\n10. Be careful when using creatine supplements.\\nThese supplements help build muscle by raising creatinine levels.\\nIf you follow the recommended dose of these supplements, it’s unlikely that they’ll cause any problems. However, going over the recommended dose can cause elevated creatinine levels. Ask your doctor if you should cut back on creatinine supplements or stop taking them.\\nSince high creatinine levels aren’t harmful on their own, this may not be a serious issue for you. However, if you’re already concerned about your kidney health, it may be better to avoid these supplements so they don’t affect the results of any prescribed creatinine tests.\\nIf you have kidney disease, it’s possible that creatinine supplements could make your kidney function issues worse. However, they’re generally considered safe for people with healthy kidneys.\\n11. Tell your doctor if you’re taking certain medications.\\nSome medications can elevate your creatinine levels.\\nHigh creatinine levels aren’t always a sign of kidney damage. Some drugs can also raise the amount of creatinine in your blood. While this side effect isn’t harmful, it can be a problem if you’re trying to get an accurate evaluation of your kidney function. Let your doctor know if you’re taking:\\nCimetidine, a drug used to treat ulcers and heartburn\\nTrimethoprim, a type of antibiotic\\nPyrimethamine, an antiparasitic drug\\nSalicylates, such as aspirin, Tylenol (acetaminophen), or ibuprofen\\nCorticosteroids\\nSome types of vitamin D supplements\\nPhenacemide, a type of anticonvulsant medication\\nKeep in mind that some medications (such as certain antibiotics and painkillers) can also be harmful to your kidneys, so talk to your doctor about the risks and benefits of taking any medication if you have high creatinine due to kidney disease.\\n12. Check into medications that may help.\\nSome medications may help lower your creatinine levels.\\nMost of these medications treat the underlying cause of your high creatinine levels rather than directly reducing creatinine in your body. Your doctor will need to find out why your creatinine is elevated before they can prescribe anything. For example:\\nMedications that control your blood sugar, such as repaglinide, may help improve your kidney function if your high creatinine levels are caused by diabetes.\\nHigh blood pressure can damage your kidneys, causing your creatinine levels to rise. If high blood pressure is the culprit, your doctor may prescribe a medication such as benazepril to reduce blood pressure and protect your kidneys.\\n13. Talk to your doctor about safe exercise levels.\\nStrenuous exercise can increase creatinine levels.\\nDuring an intense workout, your muscles break down a little bit, releasing creatinine into the bloodstream. While that’s not necessarily a problem, it can make your creatinine levels look a little higher than normal on a creatinine test. Talk to your doctor about what level of exercise is safe for you.\\nDon’t avoid exercise altogether just because you’re worried about your creatinine levels! Instead, have a conversation with your doctor about your concerns. Some studies suggest that getting plenty of exercise is good for your kidneys and can reduce your creatinine levels in the long run.\\n14. Research cold laser therapy to treat kidney disease.\\nCold laser therapy may improve your kidney function.\\nSome evidence suggests that cold laser or low-level laser therapy can revitalize the kidneys and improve their overall functioning abilities. As a result, your kidneys become more capable of filtering out creatinine naturally.Ask your doctor if this is a good option for you.\\n15. Discuss dialysis for severe kidney disease.\\nThis may be a good option for high creatinine due to kidney disease.\\nIf you have severe kidney disease or kidney failure, your doctor may recommend dialysis. This treatment helps filter your blood and remove toxins when your kidneys are too badly damaged to do it on their own.\\nYour doctor will monitor your creatinine levels to determine whether you’re a good candidate for dialysis or if less aggressive treatments are sufficient.\\nWarnings\\nAlways consult a doctor before deciding on a course of treatment. Every individual has different health needs, so these guidelines may not work for everyone. Some could even cause a decline in overall health depending on your own specific circumstances.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Creatinine is a waste product found in everyone's blood and urine. Normally, your kidneys filter excess creatinine out of your bloodstream. While having high creatinine levels probably isn’t harmful in itself, it can be a sign of a more serious problem, like kidney disease. If a blood or urine test shows that you have high creatinine levels, you’ll need to get a diagnosis from your doctor to figure out what’s causing it. However, there are also some things you can do on your own or with your doctor’s help to improve your kidney health and lower your creatinine levels. We’ll walk you through some options in this article.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Address and treat the underlying problem.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"High creatinine levels are usually caused by an underlying condition.\", \"描述\": \"To reduce your creatinine levels permanently and improve your overall health, work with your doctor to find the underlying problem and remedy that. Some common causes of high creatinine levels include:\\nKidney disease\\nDamage to the kidneys due to diabetes or high blood pressure\\nCertain medications that affect kidney function\\nDehydration\\nHeart failure\\nGout\\nIntense exercise over a long period of time\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Watch your fluid intake.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Ask your doctor how much water you should drink daily.\", \"描述\": \"Experts usually recommend drinking at least eight, 8 fluid ounces (240 mL) glasses of water each day to help keep your kidneys healthy and functioning properly. Your exact needs may vary depending on factors like your age, sex, overall health, and activity level. Dehydration can cause your creatinine levels to increase, so staying hydrated is important.\\nIf you’re on dialysis for severe kidney disease, talk to your doctor about how much water and other fluids you can safely drink. You may need to restrict your fluids and follow other special dietary requirements.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Get plenty of high-quality sleep.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Getting too little sleep is bad for your kidneys.\", \"描述\": \"If your sleep is frequently interrupted, or if you get fewer than 6 hours of sleep per night, it may impact your kidney health and cause your creatinine levels to rise. Boost your overall health by aiming to get about 7 to 9 hours of good-quality sleep every night.\\nIf you have a hard time sleeping at night, talk to your doctor. They may be able to recommend changes to your bedtime routine or even prescribe a supplement or medication that can help.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Discuss herbal remedies with your doctor.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Some herbs and supplements might support better kidney function.\", \"描述\": \"While there’s not a lot of evidence to support herbal remedies, it’s possible that some herbs can help lower creatinine levels and improve your kidney health. Always talk to your doctor before trying any kind of new supplement, especially if you have a history of kidney problems or other serious health issues. Some herbs that may help include: \\nGreen tea. While there isn’t a lot of data to support this yet, some studies suggest that green tea extract may improve kidney function and reduce creatinine levels.\\nChamomile tea. While it’s unclear why chamomile reduces creatinine levels, some medical experts speculate that it may be due to chamomile’s antioxidant properties.\\nDandelion leaf extract. It’s possible that dandelion leaf can help improve kidney health and reduce creatinine levels. However, be careful using dandelion supplements if you have kidney disease, since they are high in potassium.\\nSalvia supplements may improve kidney function and bring your creatinine levels down.\\nSome types of nettle supplements may help lower creatinine levels. However, if you have kidney disease, . These supplements are high in phosphorous and potassium, so they could do more harm than good.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Limit your sodium intake.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Too much salt in your diet can raise your creatinine levels.\", \"描述\": \"Excess sodium is tough on your kidneys. It can also contribute to other issues, like high blood pressure and fluid retention. If your creatinine levels are too high, cutting back on salt may help.\\nTalk to your doctor about starting a low-sodium diet. Unless they recommend otherwise, stay away from salty foods and drinks, and opt for low-sodium versions of common food products (canned soup, bottled sauces, etc.) when you can.\\nWhen you’re cooking, replace salt with other flavorful seasonings, such as garlic, paprika, or lemon zest.\\nThe FDA recommends eating no more than 2,300 mg of salt per day.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Keep an eye on your protein intake.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"A high-protein diet can raise your creatinine levels.\", \"描述\": \"Eating lots of cooked meats or other high-protein foods can cause creatinine to build up in your body. If you’re concerned about the amount of protein you’re eating, talk to your doctor. They may recommend switching to a low-protein diet if you have kidney disease.\\nDon’t make any drastic changes to your protein intake without getting advice from your doctor. Protein is important for keeping up your energy levels and maintaining healthy muscles.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Eat more plant-based foods.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"A diet rich in fruits and vegetables may boost your kidney health.\", \"描述\": \"Some experts recommend vegetarian diets to bring down high levels of creatinine and reduce the risk of kidney disease. However, talk to your doctor about the possible risks and benefits before going vegetarian. Increasing your intake of fruits and vegetables without completely cutting meat out of your diet may be enough to improve your kidney health.\\nIf you do switch to a vegetarian diet, you may need to take supplements, such as vitamin B 12, to make sure you’re still getting all the vitamins and minerals you need.\\nYour doctor can also help you choose healthy, plant-based sources of protein.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Avoid phosphorus-rich foods.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Your kidneys may have a hard time processing phosphorus.\", \"描述\": \"If your high creatinine levels are caused by kidney disease, cutting back on phosphorous may help. Ask your doctor if a low-phosphorous diet is a good idea for you. Foods high in phosphorous include:\\nHighly processed foods, such as fast food or pre-packaged convenience foods\\nSome types of cheese, including canned or jarred cheese spreads, American cheese, and blocks of processed deli cheese\\nMeats with added fluids or flavoring (e.g., pre-brined or marinated meats and processed deli meats)\\nMany sodas, sports drinks, energy drinks, and other pre-packaged beverages\\nDairy products\\nChocolate and caramel\\nQuickbreads and similar baked goods, such as biscuits, muffins, and cornbread\"}]}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Talk to your doctor about your potassium levels.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Kidney disease can lead to a potassium imbalance.\", \"描述\": \"Kidney problems may change the way your body processes potassium. If your creatinine levels are too high, there’s a good chance your potassium levels may be too high as well. While changing the amount of potassium in your diet won’t have a direct impact on your creatinine levels, your doctor may still recommend either increasing or decreasing potassium in your diet to help improve your kidney health.\\nIf your doctor recommends a low-potassium diet, stay away from foods such as dried fruits, bananas, melons, legumes (peas and beans), bran products, and many types of greens. Some kinds of meats, such as beef, chicken, and salmon, are also high in potassium.\\nLow-potassium foods include fruits such as apples, berries, grapes, pears, and pineapples, as well as vegetables such as cabbage, cauliflower, raw broccoli, asparagus, cucumber, and kale. Pasta, rice, and white bread are also low in potassium.\\n Getting either too much or too little potassium can be dangerous if you have kidney problems, so don’t try to guess your dietary needs.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Be careful when using creatine supplements.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"These supplements help build muscle by raising creatinine levels.\", \"描述\": \"If you follow the recommended dose of these supplements, it’s unlikely that they’ll cause any problems. However, going over the recommended dose can cause elevated creatinine levels. Ask your doctor if you should cut back on creatinine supplements or stop taking them.\\nSince high creatinine levels aren’t harmful on their own, this may not be a serious issue for you. However, if you’re already concerned about your kidney health, it may be better to avoid these supplements so they don’t affect the results of any prescribed creatinine tests.\\nIf you have kidney disease, it’s possible that creatinine supplements could make your kidney function issues worse. However, they’re generally considered safe for people with healthy kidneys.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 11, \"标题\": \"Tell your doctor if you’re taking certain medications.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Some medications can elevate your creatinine levels.\", \"描述\": \"High creatinine levels aren’t always a sign of kidney damage. Some drugs can also raise the amount of creatinine in your blood. While this side effect isn’t harmful, it can be a problem if you’re trying to get an accurate evaluation of your kidney function. Let your doctor know if you’re taking:\\nCimetidine, a drug used to treat ulcers and heartburn\\nTrimethoprim, a type of antibiotic\\nPyrimethamine, an antiparasitic drug\\nSalicylates, such as aspirin, Tylenol (acetaminophen), or ibuprofen\\nCorticosteroids\\nSome types of vitamin D supplements\\nPhenacemide, a type of anticonvulsant medication\\nKeep in mind that some medications (such as certain antibiotics and painkillers) can also be harmful to your kidneys, so talk to your doctor about the risks and benefits of taking any medication if you have high creatinine due to kidney disease.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 12, \"标题\": \"Check into medications that may help.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Some medications may help lower your creatinine levels.\", \"描述\": \"Most of these medications treat the underlying cause of your high creatinine levels rather than directly reducing creatinine in your body. Your doctor will need to find out why your creatinine is elevated before they can prescribe anything. For example:\\nMedications that control your blood sugar, such as repaglinide, may help improve your kidney function if your high creatinine levels are caused by diabetes.\\nHigh blood pressure can damage your kidneys, causing your creatinine levels to rise. If high blood pressure is the culprit, your doctor may prescribe a medication such as benazepril to reduce blood pressure and protect your kidneys.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 13, \"标题\": \"Talk to your doctor about safe exercise levels.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Strenuous exercise can increase creatinine levels.\", \"描述\": \"During an intense workout, your muscles break down a little bit, releasing creatinine into the bloodstream. While that’s not necessarily a problem, it can make your creatinine levels look a little higher than normal on a creatinine test. Talk to your doctor about what level of exercise is safe for you.\\nDon’t avoid exercise altogether just because you’re worried about your creatinine levels! Instead, have a conversation with your doctor about your concerns. Some studies suggest that getting plenty of exercise is good for your kidneys and can reduce your creatinine levels in the long run.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 14, \"标题\": \"Research cold laser therapy to treat kidney disease.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Cold laser therapy may improve your kidney function.\", \"描述\": \"Some evidence suggests that cold laser or low-level laser therapy can revitalize the kidneys and improve their overall functioning abilities. As a result, your kidneys become more capable of filtering out creatinine naturally.Ask your doctor if this is a good option for you.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 15, \"标题\": \"Discuss dialysis for severe kidney disease.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"This may be a good option for high creatinine due to kidney disease.\", \"描述\": \"If you have severe kidney disease or kidney failure, your doctor may recommend dialysis. This treatment helps filter your blood and remove toxins when your kidneys are too badly damaged to do it on their own.\\nYour doctor will monitor your creatinine levels to determine whether you’re a good candidate for dialysis or if less aggressive treatments are sufficient.\"}], \"注意事项\": [\"Always consult a doctor before deciding on a course of treatment. Every individual has different health needs, so these guidelines may not work for everyone. Some could even cause a decline in overall health depending on your own specific circumstances.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,001 |
How to Bring Eggs to Room Temperature
|
1. Warming the Eggs in Static Water
1-1. Place the required number of eggs into a kitchen bowl.
Pull as many eggs as your recipe calls for out of the fridge. Then, select a bowl from your kitchen and place the eggs into the bottom of the bowl. Set them in place gingerly, so that none of the eggs break or crack.
The size of the bowl will depend on the number of eggs the recipe calls for. A 6 in (15 cm) soup bowl will suffice for 2–4 eggs. If you’re making a large, multi-layered cake and need to warm a full dozen eggs, you’ll need to use a larger 12 in (30 cm) mixing bowl.
1-2. Fill the bowl with warm tap water until the eggs are covered.
Turn on your kitchen tap. Run the water until it’s warm to the touch, but not hot. You want the water to be about 75–80 °F (24–27 °C). Once the water is warm, set the bowl under the tap and fill it about 2/3 full.
Don’t fill the bowl up to the very top, or it’ll overflow when you stick your hand in.
1-3. Let the eggs warm up for 5–10 minutes.
The eggs will warm relatively quickly in the warm water. While the eggs warm up, gather the rest of the ingredients you’ll need for the recipe. Every 2–3 minutes, dip your hand into the water and touch 1 or 2 of the eggs. Once they feel the same temperature as the water, they’re ready to use.
You can set the warmed eggs on a dry towel so they dry off.
1-4. Use the eggs immediately after they’ve warmed.
If you let warm eggs sit out for an hour or 2 after you’ve brought them to room temperature, they’ll deflate and won’t fluff up well in your baked goods. So, crack them once they’re warm and then start baking!
2. Running Warm Water Over Your Eggs
2-1. Place the necessary number of eggs into a large liquid measuring cup.
Pull a 1 cup (240 mL) or 2 cups (470 mL) liquid measuring cup out of your cabinet. Gently set the number of eggs that your recipe calls for into the bottom.
You’ll want to set the eggs in a smaller container than you’d use for the first method. In this method, it’s important that the warm tap water continually displaces the cooling water around the eggs.
2-2. Run 80–85 °F (27–29 °C) water over the eggs.
Turn on your kitchen tap and let the water warm up. Place the bowl containing eggs under the faucet, and keep the water running until the bowl fills up. Let the water overflow once the bowl is full. The addition of new warm water to the bowl will speed up the rate at which the eggs attain room temperature.
You’ll use warmer water when letting it continually run over the eggs, compared to the water temperature when letting the eggs sit in a bowl of water.
You can use a liquid thermometer to measure the temperature of the water. If you don’t have one, you can estimate the temperature of the water on your skin.
2-3. Pull the eggs out after the water has run over them for 2–5 minutes.
It won’t take long for your eggs to reach room temperature under the warm running water. After 2 minutes have passed, reach in and touch the eggs. If they’re no longer cold from the fridge, pull them out. If the eggs still feel chilly, let the water run over them for another 2–3 minutes.
If you leave the eggs under the running water for too long, they may cook inside their shells.
3. Heating Cracked Eggs in a Stainless Steel Bowl
3-1. Break the required number of eggs into a stainless steel bowl.
The size of the bowl will vary based on the number of eggs. However, unless you’re using a couple dozen eggs, a 10 in (25 cm) bowl should suffice. Break the shells on a flat surface (e.g., a countertop) to avoid getting shell pieces into your bowl when you crack the eggs.
If the recipe calls for only yolks or whites, you’ll need to separate the eggs before adding the required yolks or whites to the bowl.
3-2. Fill a large baking pan with hot 85 °F (29 °C) tap water.
You’ll need a pan that’s large enough to hold the base of the stainless steel bowl. Run the tap water until it’s hot (but not quite steaming) and fill the large pan about halfway full. If you have a liquid thermometer, you can measure the water temperature. Otherwise, you’ll have to estimate.
Instead of a baking pan, you could also use a very large, shallow casserole dish. To hold the steel bowl, it would need to be at least 12 inches (30 cm) wide and long.
3-3. Set the stainless steel bowl into the hot water.
The heat from the water will pass through the steel and into the cold eggs. This method gives you greater control over the precise temperature of the eggs, since you can easily monitor how warm the eggs are.
With this method, you can also monitor the temperature of the eggs themselves, rather than just the outer shells.
3-4. Dip a finger into the eggs to test their temperature every 2 minutes.
Once the eggs have started warming up, use 1 or 2 fingers to test their temperature. Stick your finger into the deepest part of the bowl. The eggs will have reached room temperature and are ready to be used in baking once they don’t feel cool or warm to the touch. They should be warm in about 5–7 minutes.
You can use a liquid thermometer to test the egg temperature as well. Pull them out when they’ve reached 70 °F (21 °C).
Make sure to always wash your hands before touching food, and wash them again after handling raw eggs.
3-5. Finished.
Tips
Even if your baking recipe doesn’t call for room-temperature eggs, it’s still a smart idea to warm the eggs up anyway.
If you’re cooking with eggs in Europe or other regions in which eggs aren’t refrigerated, bringing eggs to room temperature won’t be a problem.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:58:46",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Warming the Eggs in Static Water\\n1-1. Place the required number of eggs into a kitchen bowl.\\nPull as many eggs as your recipe calls for out of the fridge. Then, select a bowl from your kitchen and place the eggs into the bottom of the bowl. Set them in place gingerly, so that none of the eggs break or crack.\\nThe size of the bowl will depend on the number of eggs the recipe calls for. A 6 in (15 cm) soup bowl will suffice for 2–4 eggs. If you’re making a large, multi-layered cake and need to warm a full dozen eggs, you’ll need to use a larger 12 in (30 cm) mixing bowl.\\n1-2. Fill the bowl with warm tap water until the eggs are covered.\\nTurn on your kitchen tap. Run the water until it’s warm to the touch, but not hot. You want the water to be about 75–80 °F (24–27 °C). Once the water is warm, set the bowl under the tap and fill it about 2/3 full.\\nDon’t fill the bowl up to the very top, or it’ll overflow when you stick your hand in.\\n1-3. Let the eggs warm up for 5–10 minutes.\\nThe eggs will warm relatively quickly in the warm water. While the eggs warm up, gather the rest of the ingredients you’ll need for the recipe. Every 2–3 minutes, dip your hand into the water and touch 1 or 2 of the eggs. Once they feel the same temperature as the water, they’re ready to use.\\nYou can set the warmed eggs on a dry towel so they dry off.\\n1-4. Use the eggs immediately after they’ve warmed.\\nIf you let warm eggs sit out for an hour or 2 after you’ve brought them to room temperature, they’ll deflate and won’t fluff up well in your baked goods. So, crack them once they’re warm and then start baking!\\n2. Running Warm Water Over Your Eggs\\n2-1. Place the necessary number of eggs into a large liquid measuring cup.\\nPull a 1 cup (240 mL) or 2 cups (470 mL) liquid measuring cup out of your cabinet. Gently set the number of eggs that your recipe calls for into the bottom.\\nYou’ll want to set the eggs in a smaller container than you’d use for the first method. In this method, it’s important that the warm tap water continually displaces the cooling water around the eggs.\\n2-2. Run 80–85 °F (27–29 °C) water over the eggs.\\nTurn on your kitchen tap and let the water warm up. Place the bowl containing eggs under the faucet, and keep the water running until the bowl fills up. Let the water overflow once the bowl is full. The addition of new warm water to the bowl will speed up the rate at which the eggs attain room temperature.\\nYou’ll use warmer water when letting it continually run over the eggs, compared to the water temperature when letting the eggs sit in a bowl of water.\\nYou can use a liquid thermometer to measure the temperature of the water. If you don’t have one, you can estimate the temperature of the water on your skin.\\n2-3. Pull the eggs out after the water has run over them for 2–5 minutes.\\nIt won’t take long for your eggs to reach room temperature under the warm running water. After 2 minutes have passed, reach in and touch the eggs. If they’re no longer cold from the fridge, pull them out. If the eggs still feel chilly, let the water run over them for another 2–3 minutes.\\nIf you leave the eggs under the running water for too long, they may cook inside their shells.\\n3. Heating Cracked Eggs in a Stainless Steel Bowl\\n3-1. Break the required number of eggs into a stainless steel bowl.\\nThe size of the bowl will vary based on the number of eggs. However, unless you’re using a couple dozen eggs, a 10 in (25 cm) bowl should suffice. Break the shells on a flat surface (e.g., a countertop) to avoid getting shell pieces into your bowl when you crack the eggs.\\nIf the recipe calls for only yolks or whites, you’ll need to separate the eggs before adding the required yolks or whites to the bowl.\\n3-2. Fill a large baking pan with hot 85 °F (29 °C) tap water.\\nYou’ll need a pan that’s large enough to hold the base of the stainless steel bowl. Run the tap water until it’s hot (but not quite steaming) and fill the large pan about halfway full. If you have a liquid thermometer, you can measure the water temperature. Otherwise, you’ll have to estimate.\\nInstead of a baking pan, you could also use a very large, shallow casserole dish. To hold the steel bowl, it would need to be at least 12 inches (30 cm) wide and long.\\n3-3. Set the stainless steel bowl into the hot water.\\nThe heat from the water will pass through the steel and into the cold eggs. This method gives you greater control over the precise temperature of the eggs, since you can easily monitor how warm the eggs are.\\nWith this method, you can also monitor the temperature of the eggs themselves, rather than just the outer shells.\\n3-4. Dip a finger into the eggs to test their temperature every 2 minutes.\\nOnce the eggs have started warming up, use 1 or 2 fingers to test their temperature. Stick your finger into the deepest part of the bowl. The eggs will have reached room temperature and are ready to be used in baking once they don’t feel cool or warm to the touch. They should be warm in about 5–7 minutes.\\nYou can use a liquid thermometer to test the egg temperature as well. Pull them out when they’ve reached 70 °F (21 °C).\\nMake sure to always wash your hands before touching food, and wash them again after handling raw eggs.\\n3-5. Finished.\\n\\nTips\\nEven if your baking recipe doesn’t call for room-temperature eggs, it’s still a smart idea to warm the eggs up anyway.\\nIf you’re cooking with eggs in Europe or other regions in which eggs aren’t refrigerated, bringing eggs to room temperature won’t be a problem.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Many baking recipes call for room-temperature eggs, since eggs at this temperature mix more easily into dough and help batter attain a higher volume. Of course, the easiest way to is to read the recipe well in advance and pull your eggs out of the fridge about 30 minutes before preparing the meal. If you’re short on time, though, you can warm the eggs by placing them in warm water or letting warm water run over the eggs. Finally, you could also warm cracked eggs in a stainless steel bowl.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Warming the Eggs in Static Water\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Place the required number of eggs into a kitchen bowl.\", \"描述\": \"Pull as many eggs as your recipe calls for out of the fridge. Then, select a bowl from your kitchen and place the eggs into the bottom of the bowl. Set them in place gingerly, so that none of the eggs break or crack.\\nThe size of the bowl will depend on the number of eggs the recipe calls for. A 6 in (15 cm) soup bowl will suffice for 2–4 eggs. If you’re making a large, multi-layered cake and need to warm a full dozen eggs, you’ll need to use a larger 12 in (30 cm) mixing bowl.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Fill the bowl with warm tap water until the eggs are covered.\", \"描述\": \"Turn on your kitchen tap. Run the water until it’s warm to the touch, but not hot. You want the water to be about 75–80 °F (24–27 °C). Once the water is warm, set the bowl under the tap and fill it about 2/3 full.\\nDon’t fill the bowl up to the very top, or it’ll overflow when you stick your hand in.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Let the eggs warm up for 5–10 minutes.\", \"描述\": \"The eggs will warm relatively quickly in the warm water. While the eggs warm up, gather the rest of the ingredients you’ll need for the recipe. Every 2–3 minutes, dip your hand into the water and touch 1 or 2 of the eggs. Once they feel the same temperature as the water, they’re ready to use.\\nYou can set the warmed eggs on a dry towel so they dry off.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Use the eggs immediately after they’ve warmed.\", \"描述\": \"If you let warm eggs sit out for an hour or 2 after you’ve brought them to room temperature, they’ll deflate and won’t fluff up well in your baked goods. So, crack them once they’re warm and then start baking!\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Running Warm Water Over Your Eggs\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Place the necessary number of eggs into a large liquid measuring cup.\", \"描述\": \"Pull a 1 cup (240 mL) or 2 cups (470 mL) liquid measuring cup out of your cabinet. Gently set the number of eggs that your recipe calls for into the bottom.\\nYou’ll want to set the eggs in a smaller container than you’d use for the first method. In this method, it’s important that the warm tap water continually displaces the cooling water around the eggs.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Run 80–85 °F (27–29 °C) water over the eggs.\", \"描述\": \"Turn on your kitchen tap and let the water warm up. Place the bowl containing eggs under the faucet, and keep the water running until the bowl fills up. Let the water overflow once the bowl is full. The addition of new warm water to the bowl will speed up the rate at which the eggs attain room temperature.\\nYou’ll use warmer water when letting it continually run over the eggs, compared to the water temperature when letting the eggs sit in a bowl of water.\\nYou can use a liquid thermometer to measure the temperature of the water. If you don’t have one, you can estimate the temperature of the water on your skin.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Pull the eggs out after the water has run over them for 2–5 minutes.\", \"描述\": \"It won’t take long for your eggs to reach room temperature under the warm running water. After 2 minutes have passed, reach in and touch the eggs. If they’re no longer cold from the fridge, pull them out. If the eggs still feel chilly, let the water run over them for another 2–3 minutes.\\nIf you leave the eggs under the running water for too long, they may cook inside their shells.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Heating Cracked Eggs in a Stainless Steel Bowl\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Break the required number of eggs into a stainless steel bowl.\", \"描述\": \"The size of the bowl will vary based on the number of eggs. However, unless you’re using a couple dozen eggs, a 10 in (25 cm) bowl should suffice. Break the shells on a flat surface (e.g., a countertop) to avoid getting shell pieces into your bowl when you crack the eggs.\\nIf the recipe calls for only yolks or whites, you’ll need to separate the eggs before adding the required yolks or whites to the bowl.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Fill a large baking pan with hot 85 °F (29 °C) tap water.\", \"描述\": \"You’ll need a pan that’s large enough to hold the base of the stainless steel bowl. Run the tap water until it’s hot (but not quite steaming) and fill the large pan about halfway full. If you have a liquid thermometer, you can measure the water temperature. Otherwise, you’ll have to estimate.\\nInstead of a baking pan, you could also use a very large, shallow casserole dish. To hold the steel bowl, it would need to be at least 12 inches (30 cm) wide and long.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Set the stainless steel bowl into the hot water.\", \"描述\": \"The heat from the water will pass through the steel and into the cold eggs. This method gives you greater control over the precise temperature of the eggs, since you can easily monitor how warm the eggs are.\\nWith this method, you can also monitor the temperature of the eggs themselves, rather than just the outer shells.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Dip a finger into the eggs to test their temperature every 2 minutes.\", \"描述\": \"Once the eggs have started warming up, use 1 or 2 fingers to test their temperature. Stick your finger into the deepest part of the bowl. The eggs will have reached room temperature and are ready to be used in baking once they don’t feel cool or warm to the touch. They should be warm in about 5–7 minutes.\\nYou can use a liquid thermometer to test the egg temperature as well. Pull them out when they’ve reached 70 °F (21 °C).\\nMake sure to always wash your hands before touching food, and wash them again after handling raw eggs.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Finished.\", \"描述\": \"\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Even if your baking recipe doesn’t call for room-temperature eggs, it’s still a smart idea to warm the eggs up anyway.\\n\", \"If you’re cooking with eggs in Europe or other regions in which eggs aren’t refrigerated, bringing eggs to room temperature won’t be a problem.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,002 |
How to Bring Food to a Friend in Need
|
1. Choosing a Meal
1-1. Bring a main meal.
While cookies, muffins, and snacks are great housewarming gifts, people in need will benefit most from a main meal. This is especially true if children are a part of the family. Bring a main dish so that those eating will be full without needing another meal.
For example, bring a casserole, lasagna, or hearty soup.
1-2. Choose a familiar recipe.
Now might not be the time to experiment in the kitchen with a new recipe. Make something you know is delicious and that you've made before with positive feedback. Stick with a meal you know and are comfortable making. While you might want to make some changes or add some ingredients, don't make any drastic changes.
Choose something tried and tested that most people generally enjoy. For example, make lasagna, chili, or pizza.
1-3. Be aware of food sensitivities.
If your friend is a vegetarian, don't send them a meal with meat in it. Inquire about any food allergies or dietary restrictions before you begin preparing food. You may ask your friend or someone close to them if they have any food sensitivities or food restrictions.
Avoid common food allergens (like peanuts and shellfish) and other polarizing foods that people seem to either love or hate (like olives and fish).
For example, don't bring anything spicy if you suspect they do not like spicy food.
1-4. Pick something enjoyable.
Your friend may love a certain type of cuisine, like noodles or spicy foods. Show your thoughtfulness by sending them their favorite foods. For example, if they love soup, make (or buy) soup you know they enjoy. If they have a taste for pizza, bring some by.
Likewise, stay clear of foods they dislike or may not enjoy. For example, make warming foods on an especially cold night.
1-5. Prepare something easy to eat.
Don't bring a meal that's messy or difficult to eat or put together. For example, a DIY taco night might be fun, but it also might include lengthy setup or cleanup afterward. Keep your meals easy to eat and easy to clean up after.
Finger foods might be more difficult to keep clean up after, so aim to serve something that requires utensils.
If serving food to children, keep it relatively mess-free. For example, if you include sauces, make sure they won't stain clothing.
2. Making Transport and Storage Simple
2-1. Keep it easy to transport.
Hold off on meals that require lots of pieces or separate items or dishes. Keep your meal simple and easy to move. As much as possible, keep everything self-contained or all together. Any assembly should be fairly simple and straightforward.
Keep delicate dishes for another time. If you care greatly how it looks or that it is presented a certain way, try something simpler or easier.
For example, don't bring a liquid soup that can spill easily. If you do bring soup, make sure it is secured and unable to spill at any point during transport.
2-2. Make it table ready.
If you know your friend will be eating the meal once you bring it, drop it off hot and ready. Cook and prepare the meal ahead of time and if needed, heat it briefly when you drop it off at their house. Keep any work your friend or their family has to do minimal.
You might want to help get their table or eating area ready. Place utensils, glasses, and plates on the table to minimize meal preparation for your friend.
2-3. Send a freezer meal.
If you send something and your friend isn't prepared to eat it quite yet, make sure it's easy to stick in the freezer (or fridge) and eat another day reheated. Some examples of fridge or freezer meals might include casseroles, soups or stews, or ravioli.
Pack it into a container that's not too large or bulky. It should be able to be easily stacked or tucked away in a fridge or freezer.
2-4. Donate the food containers.
Don't ask for containers back if you can avoid it. Instead, prepare and pack your food in containers that your friend can keep and reuse. Clearly let the person know you don't need (or want) the containers back.
It can be stressful to sort out people's containers and who sent what, so keep it simple.
3. Dropping Off the Food
3-1. Call ahead.
Let the person know that food is on the way. Giving a heads up can ensure that someone will be there to accept the food and that they will be around to enjoy it. If you're a part of a train of people bringing meals, make sure you know when to drop it off and to whom.
The person may need to make room in the fridge or make other arrangements, so it's always best to give some warning.
3-2. Include a list of ingredients and instructions.
Even if you've checked with food sensitivities beforehand, it doesn't hurt to send a list of ingredients for anyone else who is enjoying the meal. Say how to reheat it (“Place it in the oven for 10 minutes at 200 degrees” or “Reheat in the microwave for 3 minutes”) and how to store it (in the fridge or freezer).
For example, attach a piece of paper with the ingredients and any other special instructions with the meal or tape it to the sides of the container.
3-3. Add a personal note.
Along with the meal, say something thoughtful or sweet in a note. This can show how much you care and support them. It might be a note of encouragement, something silly to make them laugh, or a thoughtful line to let them know they are in your thoughts. After the meal is gone, your kindness and thoughtfulness will be remembered.
Say something simple, such as “Thinking of you” or, “I hope you recover quickly.”
3-4. Include some food staples.
Along with your meal, include something that can be placed in the pantry or used over and over again. For example, include a jar of applesauce, box of crackers, or other staple items that can be snacked on or prepared easily.
For example, if you know your friend enjoys bagels, throw in a bag of bagels with your meal.
3-5. Don't stay long.
You may wish to stay and visit, but take any cues that your friend or their family want privacy. If you want to stay and talk, ask before you come over whether you can stay or whether you should schedule for another time. Your friend might be exhausted, so drop off your meal then be on your way.
Consider making time to talk when they are feeling good and not stressed.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:58:46",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Choosing a Meal\\n1-1. Bring a main meal.\\nWhile cookies, muffins, and snacks are great housewarming gifts, people in need will benefit most from a main meal. This is especially true if children are a part of the family. Bring a main dish so that those eating will be full without needing another meal.\\nFor example, bring a casserole, lasagna, or hearty soup.\\n1-2. Choose a familiar recipe.\\nNow might not be the time to experiment in the kitchen with a new recipe. Make something you know is delicious and that you've made before with positive feedback. Stick with a meal you know and are comfortable making. While you might want to make some changes or add some ingredients, don't make any drastic changes.\\nChoose something tried and tested that most people generally enjoy. For example, make lasagna, chili, or pizza.\\n1-3. Be aware of food sensitivities.\\nIf your friend is a vegetarian, don't send them a meal with meat in it. Inquire about any food allergies or dietary restrictions before you begin preparing food. You may ask your friend or someone close to them if they have any food sensitivities or food restrictions.\\nAvoid common food allergens (like peanuts and shellfish) and other polarizing foods that people seem to either love or hate (like olives and fish).\\nFor example, don't bring anything spicy if you suspect they do not like spicy food.\\n1-4. Pick something enjoyable.\\nYour friend may love a certain type of cuisine, like noodles or spicy foods. Show your thoughtfulness by sending them their favorite foods. For example, if they love soup, make (or buy) soup you know they enjoy. If they have a taste for pizza, bring some by.\\nLikewise, stay clear of foods they dislike or may not enjoy. For example, make warming foods on an especially cold night.\\n1-5. Prepare something easy to eat.\\nDon't bring a meal that's messy or difficult to eat or put together. For example, a DIY taco night might be fun, but it also might include lengthy setup or cleanup afterward. Keep your meals easy to eat and easy to clean up after.\\nFinger foods might be more difficult to keep clean up after, so aim to serve something that requires utensils.\\nIf serving food to children, keep it relatively mess-free. For example, if you include sauces, make sure they won't stain clothing.\\n2. Making Transport and Storage Simple\\n2-1. Keep it easy to transport.\\nHold off on meals that require lots of pieces or separate items or dishes. Keep your meal simple and easy to move. As much as possible, keep everything self-contained or all together. Any assembly should be fairly simple and straightforward.\\nKeep delicate dishes for another time. If you care greatly how it looks or that it is presented a certain way, try something simpler or easier.\\nFor example, don't bring a liquid soup that can spill easily. If you do bring soup, make sure it is secured and unable to spill at any point during transport.\\n2-2. Make it table ready.\\nIf you know your friend will be eating the meal once you bring it, drop it off hot and ready. Cook and prepare the meal ahead of time and if needed, heat it briefly when you drop it off at their house. Keep any work your friend or their family has to do minimal.\\nYou might want to help get their table or eating area ready. Place utensils, glasses, and plates on the table to minimize meal preparation for your friend.\\n2-3. Send a freezer meal.\\nIf you send something and your friend isn't prepared to eat it quite yet, make sure it's easy to stick in the freezer (or fridge) and eat another day reheated. Some examples of fridge or freezer meals might include casseroles, soups or stews, or ravioli.\\nPack it into a container that's not too large or bulky. It should be able to be easily stacked or tucked away in a fridge or freezer.\\n2-4. Donate the food containers.\\nDon't ask for containers back if you can avoid it. Instead, prepare and pack your food in containers that your friend can keep and reuse. Clearly let the person know you don't need (or want) the containers back.\\nIt can be stressful to sort out people's containers and who sent what, so keep it simple.\\n3. Dropping Off the Food\\n3-1. Call ahead.\\nLet the person know that food is on the way. Giving a heads up can ensure that someone will be there to accept the food and that they will be around to enjoy it. If you're a part of a train of people bringing meals, make sure you know when to drop it off and to whom.\\nThe person may need to make room in the fridge or make other arrangements, so it's always best to give some warning.\\n3-2. Include a list of ingredients and instructions.\\nEven if you've checked with food sensitivities beforehand, it doesn't hurt to send a list of ingredients for anyone else who is enjoying the meal. Say how to reheat it (“Place it in the oven for 10 minutes at 200 degrees” or “Reheat in the microwave for 3 minutes”) and how to store it (in the fridge or freezer).\\nFor example, attach a piece of paper with the ingredients and any other special instructions with the meal or tape it to the sides of the container.\\n3-3. Add a personal note.\\nAlong with the meal, say something thoughtful or sweet in a note. This can show how much you care and support them. It might be a note of encouragement, something silly to make them laugh, or a thoughtful line to let them know they are in your thoughts. After the meal is gone, your kindness and thoughtfulness will be remembered.\\nSay something simple, such as “Thinking of you” or, “I hope you recover quickly.”\\n3-4. Include some food staples.\\nAlong with your meal, include something that can be placed in the pantry or used over and over again. For example, include a jar of applesauce, box of crackers, or other staple items that can be snacked on or prepared easily.\\nFor example, if you know your friend enjoys bagels, throw in a bag of bagels with your meal.\\n3-5. Don't stay long.\\nYou may wish to stay and visit, but take any cues that your friend or their family want privacy. If you want to stay and talk, ask before you come over whether you can stay or whether you should schedule for another time. Your friend might be exhausted, so drop off your meal then be on your way.\\nConsider making time to talk when they are feeling good and not stressed.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Bringing a friend food is a kind gesture, especially in a time of need. This might include when a friend has a new baby, is sick or injured, is going through bereavement, or needs help and support. Choose a meal that will appeal to your friend and to their family, noting any modifications or dietary restrictions they follow. Make it easy to transport and eat at a later time. When dropping off the meal, take some extra steps to make it easy, fast, and simple.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Choosing a Meal\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Bring a main meal.\", \"描述\": \"While cookies, muffins, and snacks are great housewarming gifts, people in need will benefit most from a main meal. This is especially true if children are a part of the family. Bring a main dish so that those eating will be full without needing another meal.\\nFor example, bring a casserole, lasagna, or hearty soup.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Choose a familiar recipe.\", \"描述\": \"Now might not be the time to experiment in the kitchen with a new recipe. Make something you know is delicious and that you've made before with positive feedback. Stick with a meal you know and are comfortable making. While you might want to make some changes or add some ingredients, don't make any drastic changes.\\nChoose something tried and tested that most people generally enjoy. For example, make lasagna, chili, or pizza.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Be aware of food sensitivities.\", \"描述\": \"If your friend is a vegetarian, don't send them a meal with meat in it. Inquire about any food allergies or dietary restrictions before you begin preparing food. You may ask your friend or someone close to them if they have any food sensitivities or food restrictions.\\nAvoid common food allergens (like peanuts and shellfish) and other polarizing foods that people seem to either love or hate (like olives and fish).\\nFor example, don't bring anything spicy if you suspect they do not like spicy food.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Pick something enjoyable.\", \"描述\": \"Your friend may love a certain type of cuisine, like noodles or spicy foods. Show your thoughtfulness by sending them their favorite foods. For example, if they love soup, make (or buy) soup you know they enjoy. If they have a taste for pizza, bring some by.\\nLikewise, stay clear of foods they dislike or may not enjoy. For example, make warming foods on an especially cold night.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Prepare something easy to eat.\", \"描述\": \"Don't bring a meal that's messy or difficult to eat or put together. For example, a DIY taco night might be fun, but it also might include lengthy setup or cleanup afterward. Keep your meals easy to eat and easy to clean up after.\\nFinger foods might be more difficult to keep clean up after, so aim to serve something that requires utensils.\\nIf serving food to children, keep it relatively mess-free. For example, if you include sauces, make sure they won't stain clothing.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Making Transport and Storage Simple\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Keep it easy to transport.\", \"描述\": \"Hold off on meals that require lots of pieces or separate items or dishes. Keep your meal simple and easy to move. As much as possible, keep everything self-contained or all together. Any assembly should be fairly simple and straightforward.\\nKeep delicate dishes for another time. If you care greatly how it looks or that it is presented a certain way, try something simpler or easier.\\nFor example, don't bring a liquid soup that can spill easily. If you do bring soup, make sure it is secured and unable to spill at any point during transport.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Make it table ready.\", \"描述\": \"If you know your friend will be eating the meal once you bring it, drop it off hot and ready. Cook and prepare the meal ahead of time and if needed, heat it briefly when you drop it off at their house. Keep any work your friend or their family has to do minimal.\\nYou might want to help get their table or eating area ready. Place utensils, glasses, and plates on the table to minimize meal preparation for your friend.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Send a freezer meal.\", \"描述\": \"If you send something and your friend isn't prepared to eat it quite yet, make sure it's easy to stick in the freezer (or fridge) and eat another day reheated. Some examples of fridge or freezer meals might include casseroles, soups or stews, or ravioli.\\nPack it into a container that's not too large or bulky. It should be able to be easily stacked or tucked away in a fridge or freezer.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Donate the food containers.\", \"描述\": \"Don't ask for containers back if you can avoid it. Instead, prepare and pack your food in containers that your friend can keep and reuse. Clearly let the person know you don't need (or want) the containers back.\\nIt can be stressful to sort out people's containers and who sent what, so keep it simple.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Dropping Off the Food\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Call ahead.\", \"描述\": \"Let the person know that food is on the way. Giving a heads up can ensure that someone will be there to accept the food and that they will be around to enjoy it. If you're a part of a train of people bringing meals, make sure you know when to drop it off and to whom.\\nThe person may need to make room in the fridge or make other arrangements, so it's always best to give some warning.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Include a list of ingredients and instructions.\", \"描述\": \"Even if you've checked with food sensitivities beforehand, it doesn't hurt to send a list of ingredients for anyone else who is enjoying the meal. Say how to reheat it (“Place it in the oven for 10 minutes at 200 degrees” or “Reheat in the microwave for 3 minutes”) and how to store it (in the fridge or freezer).\\nFor example, attach a piece of paper with the ingredients and any other special instructions with the meal or tape it to the sides of the container.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Add a personal note.\", \"描述\": \"Along with the meal, say something thoughtful or sweet in a note. This can show how much you care and support them. It might be a note of encouragement, something silly to make them laugh, or a thoughtful line to let them know they are in your thoughts. After the meal is gone, your kindness and thoughtfulness will be remembered.\\nSay something simple, such as “Thinking of you” or, “I hope you recover quickly.”\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Include some food staples.\", \"描述\": \"Along with your meal, include something that can be placed in the pantry or used over and over again. For example, include a jar of applesauce, box of crackers, or other staple items that can be snacked on or prepared easily.\\nFor example, if you know your friend enjoys bagels, throw in a bag of bagels with your meal.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Don't stay long.\", \"描述\": \"You may wish to stay and visit, but take any cues that your friend or their family want privacy. If you want to stay and talk, ask before you come over whether you can stay or whether you should schedule for another time. Your friend might be exhausted, so drop off your meal then be on your way.\\nConsider making time to talk when they are feeling good and not stressed.\"}]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,003 |
How to Bring Golf Clubs on a Plane
|
1. Packing Your Clubs
1-1. Pay attention to fees and weight limits for checked luggage.
Many airlines require that golf bags be transported as checked luggage – even a single club cannot be taken aboard as a carry-on item. Depending on the airline you use and the nature of your ticket, you may have to pay for each piece of checked baggage.
Most airlines allow checked bags up to 50 pounds. Fees for going over this limit vary, but they can increase substantially if your bag is even a pound or two overweight. Similarly, your golf bag may incur additional fees if the bag is larger than the baseline dimensions allowed by the airline.
The size limit for checked bags is standard across airlines, at 62 linear inches. To calculate the linear dimensions of your bag, add its length, width, and height.
The fees listed for checked bags or overweight items are typically for one-way flights, meaning that you may have to pay the fee for each direction of your journey.
1-2. Wrap the shafts of the clubs to protect them.
Packing your golf bag properly is crucial for minimizing damage to your clubs, as they may bang around as they are transferred from car to airport to plane. It's a good idea to put towels and other soft items between the shafts of the clubs in order to prevent them from rattling around.
A tightly-packed bag can also prevent clubs from falling out in transit.
You can also use bubble wrap to protect your clubs. Using bubble wrap instead of towels may help reduce overall weight.
1-3. Protect the heads of your golf clubs.
Golf clubs most often break where the head meets the shaft. Since most clubs stick above the top of the bag, you should aim to protect the exposed heads of the clubs.
If your heads are detachable, unscrew them and stash them in the bag for the journey.
Grouping your clubs together and placing a sock on top of the heads makes for a tight bundle, reducing the stress placed on a single club.
You can also get an item such as a Stiff Arm to take the weight of anything set on the top of your bag. These implements have a telescoping shaft that extends to the bottom of your golf bag and a flat head that sits above the tops of your golf clubs, making for a small shield that protects them.
Alternately, some golfers choose to put their clubs in their bag upside-down in order to protect the heads.
1-4. Put your clubs in a hard-shell case for maximum protection.
A sturdy golf bag, such as a plastic or fiberglass case, can insulate your clubs from damage that may occur in the course of travel. However, a hard-shell case may weigh more than a soft-shell, adding to the overall weight of your bag, which in turn can lead to higher checked bag fees.
1-5. Weigh your golf bag with everything inside.
In addition to their clubs, many golfers travel with extra balls, shoes, and rain gear. Combined with the weight of the clubs and the bag itself, these extras may contribute to a fairly heavy bag and thus higher fees. Weigh your bag with all of the items included to see how the weight compares to what the airline allows.
If your bag weighs too much, consider transferring heavier items like shoes and balls to your carry-on luggage.
2. Taking Your Clubs to the Airport
2-1. Make sure your bags are properly identified.
You’ll want to make sure there is something attached to the bag that identifies who it belongs to, and how you can be reached. That way the airline or shipping company will know who to contact if it is misplaced or delayed.
Add a luggage tag to the bag. Tags are available at every airline counter.
Your bag may have a slot for a card with your name and contact information. Fill this out before you check your bag.
If your clubs are in hard-shell case, write your information on a piece of paper to tape to the side if you cannot easily attach a tag.
2-2. Check in your bag at the ticket counter.
In most cases, since golf bags are considered a piece of checked baggage, your golf bag can be checked at the normal ticket counter with the rest of your luggage. However, given that golf bags can be fairly bulky items, they may have to be checked in in an area specifically for over-sized items.
But once your bag is checked in, you won’t have to worry about your clubs until you reach your destination!
2-3. Retrieve your bag at your destination.
Once you land, head to the luggage carousel associated with your flight to retrieve your bag. Some airports have separate areas to retrieve over-sized luggage. Ask an airport attendant to direct you to this area, which is usually a counter or room near the luggage carousel.
Airlines may unload bulky cargo first or last. You may be able to retrieve your bag immediately, or you may have to wait until the other bags are unloaded.
Tips
If a hard case adds too much weight to your cargo, you may want to use an appropriately-sized cardboard box instead. The clubs and bag can be set into the box and secured with tape. This box can be checked like any other piece of luggage.
If you are renting a car at your destination, make sure the vehicle has enough room to accommodate your clubs.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:58:46",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Packing Your Clubs\\n1-1. Pay attention to fees and weight limits for checked luggage.\\nMany airlines require that golf bags be transported as checked luggage – even a single club cannot be taken aboard as a carry-on item. Depending on the airline you use and the nature of your ticket, you may have to pay for each piece of checked baggage.\\nMost airlines allow checked bags up to 50 pounds. Fees for going over this limit vary, but they can increase substantially if your bag is even a pound or two overweight. Similarly, your golf bag may incur additional fees if the bag is larger than the baseline dimensions allowed by the airline.\\nThe size limit for checked bags is standard across airlines, at 62 linear inches. To calculate the linear dimensions of your bag, add its length, width, and height.\\nThe fees listed for checked bags or overweight items are typically for one-way flights, meaning that you may have to pay the fee for each direction of your journey.\\n1-2. Wrap the shafts of the clubs to protect them.\\nPacking your golf bag properly is crucial for minimizing damage to your clubs, as they may bang around as they are transferred from car to airport to plane. It's a good idea to put towels and other soft items between the shafts of the clubs in order to prevent them from rattling around.\\nA tightly-packed bag can also prevent clubs from falling out in transit.\\nYou can also use bubble wrap to protect your clubs. Using bubble wrap instead of towels may help reduce overall weight.\\n1-3. Protect the heads of your golf clubs.\\nGolf clubs most often break where the head meets the shaft. Since most clubs stick above the top of the bag, you should aim to protect the exposed heads of the clubs.\\nIf your heads are detachable, unscrew them and stash them in the bag for the journey.\\nGrouping your clubs together and placing a sock on top of the heads makes for a tight bundle, reducing the stress placed on a single club. \\nYou can also get an item such as a Stiff Arm to take the weight of anything set on the top of your bag. These implements have a telescoping shaft that extends to the bottom of your golf bag and a flat head that sits above the tops of your golf clubs, making for a small shield that protects them.\\nAlternately, some golfers choose to put their clubs in their bag upside-down in order to protect the heads.\\n1-4. Put your clubs in a hard-shell case for maximum protection.\\nA sturdy golf bag, such as a plastic or fiberglass case, can insulate your clubs from damage that may occur in the course of travel. However, a hard-shell case may weigh more than a soft-shell, adding to the overall weight of your bag, which in turn can lead to higher checked bag fees.\\n1-5. Weigh your golf bag with everything inside.\\nIn addition to their clubs, many golfers travel with extra balls, shoes, and rain gear. Combined with the weight of the clubs and the bag itself, these extras may contribute to a fairly heavy bag and thus higher fees. Weigh your bag with all of the items included to see how the weight compares to what the airline allows.\\nIf your bag weighs too much, consider transferring heavier items like shoes and balls to your carry-on luggage.\\n2. Taking Your Clubs to the Airport\\n2-1. Make sure your bags are properly identified.\\nYou’ll want to make sure there is something attached to the bag that identifies who it belongs to, and how you can be reached. That way the airline or shipping company will know who to contact if it is misplaced or delayed.\\nAdd a luggage tag to the bag. Tags are available at every airline counter.\\nYour bag may have a slot for a card with your name and contact information. Fill this out before you check your bag.\\nIf your clubs are in hard-shell case, write your information on a piece of paper to tape to the side if you cannot easily attach a tag.\\n2-2. Check in your bag at the ticket counter.\\nIn most cases, since golf bags are considered a piece of checked baggage, your golf bag can be checked at the normal ticket counter with the rest of your luggage. However, given that golf bags can be fairly bulky items, they may have to be checked in in an area specifically for over-sized items.\\nBut once your bag is checked in, you won’t have to worry about your clubs until you reach your destination!\\n2-3. Retrieve your bag at your destination.\\nOnce you land, head to the luggage carousel associated with your flight to retrieve your bag. Some airports have separate areas to retrieve over-sized luggage. Ask an airport attendant to direct you to this area, which is usually a counter or room near the luggage carousel.\\nAirlines may unload bulky cargo first or last. You may be able to retrieve your bag immediately, or you may have to wait until the other bags are unloaded.\\nTips\\nIf a hard case adds too much weight to your cargo, you may want to use an appropriately-sized cardboard box instead. The clubs and bag can be set into the box and secured with tape. This box can be checked like any other piece of luggage.\\nIf you are renting a car at your destination, make sure the vehicle has enough room to accommodate your clubs.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"For golfers, there is nothing better than a day on the green. But it can be hard to imagine playing a round without your personal set of clubs. Fortunately, you have a few options for bringing your clubs with you when you go on vacation. Most airlines allow golf bags as checked luggage, so you can rest assured you’ll be able to use your lucky sticks wherever you hit the links.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Packing Your Clubs\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Pay attention to fees and weight limits for checked luggage.\", \"描述\": \"Many airlines require that golf bags be transported as checked luggage – even a single club cannot be taken aboard as a carry-on item. Depending on the airline you use and the nature of your ticket, you may have to pay for each piece of checked baggage.\\nMost airlines allow checked bags up to 50 pounds. Fees for going over this limit vary, but they can increase substantially if your bag is even a pound or two overweight. Similarly, your golf bag may incur additional fees if the bag is larger than the baseline dimensions allowed by the airline.\\nThe size limit for checked bags is standard across airlines, at 62 linear inches. To calculate the linear dimensions of your bag, add its length, width, and height.\\nThe fees listed for checked bags or overweight items are typically for one-way flights, meaning that you may have to pay the fee for each direction of your journey.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Wrap the shafts of the clubs to protect them.\", \"描述\": \"Packing your golf bag properly is crucial for minimizing damage to your clubs, as they may bang around as they are transferred from car to airport to plane. It's a good idea to put towels and other soft items between the shafts of the clubs in order to prevent them from rattling around.\\nA tightly-packed bag can also prevent clubs from falling out in transit.\\nYou can also use bubble wrap to protect your clubs. Using bubble wrap instead of towels may help reduce overall weight.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Protect the heads of your golf clubs.\", \"描述\": \"Golf clubs most often break where the head meets the shaft. Since most clubs stick above the top of the bag, you should aim to protect the exposed heads of the clubs.\\nIf your heads are detachable, unscrew them and stash them in the bag for the journey.\\nGrouping your clubs together and placing a sock on top of the heads makes for a tight bundle, reducing the stress placed on a single club. \\nYou can also get an item such as a Stiff Arm to take the weight of anything set on the top of your bag. These implements have a telescoping shaft that extends to the bottom of your golf bag and a flat head that sits above the tops of your golf clubs, making for a small shield that protects them.\\nAlternately, some golfers choose to put their clubs in their bag upside-down in order to protect the heads.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Put your clubs in a hard-shell case for maximum protection.\", \"描述\": \"A sturdy golf bag, such as a plastic or fiberglass case, can insulate your clubs from damage that may occur in the course of travel. However, a hard-shell case may weigh more than a soft-shell, adding to the overall weight of your bag, which in turn can lead to higher checked bag fees.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Weigh your golf bag with everything inside.\", \"描述\": \"In addition to their clubs, many golfers travel with extra balls, shoes, and rain gear. Combined with the weight of the clubs and the bag itself, these extras may contribute to a fairly heavy bag and thus higher fees. Weigh your bag with all of the items included to see how the weight compares to what the airline allows.\\nIf your bag weighs too much, consider transferring heavier items like shoes and balls to your carry-on luggage.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Taking Your Clubs to the Airport\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Make sure your bags are properly identified.\", \"描述\": \"You’ll want to make sure there is something attached to the bag that identifies who it belongs to, and how you can be reached. That way the airline or shipping company will know who to contact if it is misplaced or delayed.\\nAdd a luggage tag to the bag. Tags are available at every airline counter.\\nYour bag may have a slot for a card with your name and contact information. Fill this out before you check your bag.\\nIf your clubs are in hard-shell case, write your information on a piece of paper to tape to the side if you cannot easily attach a tag.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Check in your bag at the ticket counter.\", \"描述\": \"In most cases, since golf bags are considered a piece of checked baggage, your golf bag can be checked at the normal ticket counter with the rest of your luggage. However, given that golf bags can be fairly bulky items, they may have to be checked in in an area specifically for over-sized items.\\nBut once your bag is checked in, you won’t have to worry about your clubs until you reach your destination!\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Retrieve your bag at your destination.\", \"描述\": \"Once you land, head to the luggage carousel associated with your flight to retrieve your bag. Some airports have separate areas to retrieve over-sized luggage. Ask an airport attendant to direct you to this area, which is usually a counter or room near the luggage carousel.\\nAirlines may unload bulky cargo first or last. You may be able to retrieve your bag immediately, or you may have to wait until the other bags are unloaded.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"If a hard case adds too much weight to your cargo, you may want to use an appropriately-sized cardboard box instead. The clubs and bag can be set into the box and secured with tape. This box can be checked like any other piece of luggage.\\n\", \"If you are renting a car at your destination, make sure the vehicle has enough room to accommodate your clubs.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,004 |
How to Bring Intimacy Back Into a Relationship
|
1. Bring back flirting and affectionate touch.
Touch and flirt with your partner routinely to promote physical intimacy.
When you first started dating, you likely flirted a lot and couldn't keep your hands off each other—but somewhere along the way, that changed. The good news is it's never too late to bring it back. If it's been a while since you acted this way around your partner, start slow and work your way up to it.
For example, you might rest your hand on their arm or leg as you're making a point in a conversation or brush your hand down their back as you pass them in the kitchen.
Whenever the mood strikes, give your partner a hug or brief squeeze. You might grab their hand as you're walking together or squeeze their knee when you're sitting next to each other.
In private moments, try running your hand up their leg or down their chest. You also might give them a slightly longer kiss, then let your mouth linger around their neck or ear.
2. Change your sexual routine and habits.
Changing your habits periodically can keep you from getting into a rut.
Monotony and predictability can become the enemies of intimacy, but switching things up from time to time can work wonders for your sex life and overall satisfaction with your relationship. Think about how relations normally go between you and your partner and make little tweaks that break that cycle.
For example, if you normally only cuddle with your partner when you're in bed getting ready to go to sleep for the night, you might cuddle with your partner on the couch after dinner instead.
If you and your partner typically have sex at night before you go to sleep, try setting your alarm a little earlier so you can surprise your partner with sex in the morning.
3. Make sex a part of your regular conversations.
Talking about sex and intimacy helps you understand each other better.
Make what turns you on and what gets you in the mood as much a part of daily conversation as what food you like to eat or activities you enjoy. You'll find that you feel closer to your partner and can better anticipate when the time is right for more intimate interactions with each other.
For example, you might mention that you really enjoy having sex to release tension after you've had a stressful day at work.
This isn't about having conversations specifically about sex and intimacy, or even about your relationship. You can just mention these things casually. For example, if your partner casually rests their hand on your leg while they're driving, you might mention that you really like when they do that.
4. Increase your connection with your partner slowly.
Commit yourself to make an effort every day to reconnect.
You didn't lose your connection overnight and it's unreasonable to expect that you'll get it back overnight. Do little things every day to incrementally rebuild your connection to each other.
For example, you might start by giving your partner a quick peck on the cheek as they leave for work. After about a week of that, start giving them a longer, more lingering kiss. Gradually build up the intimacy, rather than trying to jump right into it (which is likely to feel forced and awkward).
Talk to your partner about this, too. Don't make it your secret project. It's not likely to work if they're not on board and willing to put forth some effort as well.
5. Build your confidence so you feel more attractive.
Confidence makes you feel worthy of physical intimacy.
Make a list of 10 things that are great about you. This doesn't necessarily have to be related to your physical appearance—it could be things you're good at or aspects of your personality. Your partner loves you for who you are, not just what you look like.
This is something it can be easy to lose if your appearance has changed a lot since you and your partner first started seeing each other. For example, you might've had children or gained weight. But don't let those things get in the way of loving yourself—own all those special things that make you "you."
If you're really unhappy with how you look, try doing some mirror work. Just stand in front of the mirror and ignore the critical voice in your head. Instead, focus on the things that you love about your appearance.
6. Have an honest talk about your relationship.
Discuss the feelings you have to break down barriers to intimacy.
When you've been with someone for a long time, little resentments can build up without you even noticing. Take some time to explore these feelings openly and honestly. If you clear the air, you'll be in a better position to rekindle your passion and intimacy.
For example, you might say, "I've been feeling a distance between us lately. Can we take a few minutes tonight to talk about what's going on?"
It also helps to be specific about what you feel is missing in the relationship. For example, you might say, "I've noticed we just don't touch each other as much as we used to and I miss it. Can we talk about that?"
If you and your partner have a hard time engaging in these conversations, consider getting help from a couples counselor. They give you a neutral environment where you can have some of these more difficult conversations with less fear and anxiety.
7. Spend time with your partner without distractions.
Turn off all of your devices and focus on each other to rebuild emotional intimacy.
Getting away from your routine can help you and your partner find each other again. When you first started dating, the time you spent together was just that—time together. Now that you're sharing life, you're also sharing a lot of other things, and that makes it difficult to make time for just the two of you.
Don't worry if you feel restless without any distractions—you might try engaging in an activity together to help you focus your attention. For example, you could play a cooperative board game or put together a jigsaw puzzle.
If you have the time and room in your budget, you might even consider a weekend couple's retreat where you disconnect from the world for a couple of days so you can reconnect with each other.
8. Reminisce about funny things that happened in the past.
Laughing together rekindles your intimacy and connection to each other.
When you remember the times you laughed together, you'll likely laugh together again. You not only relive that moment, to some extent, through your laughter, but also have a new positive experience with each other. The whole process brings you closer together, increasing your overall relationship satisfaction.
The wonderful thing about this is that it's something you can easily do anytime—you don't have to wait for the "right moment" to recall something funny that happened in your past.
It does help if the memory is somewhat related to what you're doing. For example, if you're both cleaning up the kitchen after dinner, you might say, "Remember that time the dog got into the flour and spread it all over the kitchen? It was such a mess, but all we could do was laugh." As you laugh along, you'll feel closer to each other.
9. Express appreciation for things your partner does.
Showing that you appreciate your partner restores emotional intimacy.
Everyone likes to know that their efforts are noticed and appreciated. When you tell your partner that you appreciate something they've done, they felt seen—and this translates into more positive and intimate feelings towards you.
For example, you might say, "Hey, I really appreciate you taking out the trash this morning." And that's it! For little things, that's really all you need to say.
You might go into more detail for something bigger. For example, you might say, "Listen, I need to tell you that I really appreciate you taking the kids out for dinner tonight. I was really struggling to finish this project by the deadline and that couple of hours by myself was exactly what I needed. I love you so much."
10. Leave little notes for your partner to find.
Surprise affirmations and compliments enhance emotional intimacy.
Get a pack of sticky notes or small note cards and write out a few messages of love and encouragement. Place them around your home or among your partner's things in spots where they're easily found but not immediately visible, then wait.
For example, you might write notes that say "I love you so much," or "You're my favorite person." These types of notes can be hidden anywhere.
You can also write more specific notes and put them in places related to what you've written. For example, you might put a note that reads "You look great today" among your partner's toiletries in the bathroom or in a drawer.
11. Learn a new skill together.
Learning requires vulnerability, which builds emotional intimacy.
This is a really easy way to trigger the same emotions you felt when you first met. When you were first getting to know each other, you were likely really nervous and excited—and that translated into intimacy. When you learn something new, you put yourself out there in the same way, so you'll both feel those same feelings again.
One study showed that couples who engaged in exciting new activities together also increased their overall relationship satisfaction. Just feeling excited about the same thing together can really enhance your connection with your partner in a lot of ways.
12. Plan surprise dates for your partner.
A surprise date builds mystery and amps up your emotional intimacy.
Tell your partner to block off a couple of hours, then take them someplace fun. It doesn't have to be an expensive or overly complex outing—just pick something you think they'd like. You can even pick out what they should wear to help add to the mystery.
Surprise makes your relationship feel fun and exciting. You'll enjoy planning the surprise and get a little rush from keeping it from your partner. It makes things a little unpredictable (in a good way).
For example, you might make reservations at your partner's favorite restaurant followed by tickets to one of their favorite bands in concert. You might tell them to wear that shirt you like or their new jacket. If you're bad at keeping secrets, you can show them the concert tickets at dinner.
13. Develop skills and interests apart from each other.
Personal growth reinvigorates your passion by making you feel like a new person.
When you first started seeing each other, part of the excitement came from the fact that there were still things about your partner for you to discover. After you've been with each other for a few years, though, you lose a lot of that excitement because you already know each other so well. This changes when each of you does things on your own, then comes back with new and exciting things to share.
For example, suppose you've always been interested in pottery. If you take a pottery class on your own, it'll invigorate and excite you—and you can bring that energy back to your partner.
New skills and interests can also help you and your partner see a "side" of each other that you've never seen before—and that can reinvigorate your passion for each other. For example, if you've never seen your partner's competitive side before, you'll see them in a new light if you watch them play on a rec league soccer team.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:58:47",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Bring back flirting and affectionate touch.\\nTouch and flirt with your partner routinely to promote physical intimacy.\\nWhen you first started dating, you likely flirted a lot and couldn't keep your hands off each other—but somewhere along the way, that changed. The good news is it's never too late to bring it back. If it's been a while since you acted this way around your partner, start slow and work your way up to it.\\nFor example, you might rest your hand on their arm or leg as you're making a point in a conversation or brush your hand down their back as you pass them in the kitchen.\\nWhenever the mood strikes, give your partner a hug or brief squeeze. You might grab their hand as you're walking together or squeeze their knee when you're sitting next to each other.\\nIn private moments, try running your hand up their leg or down their chest. You also might give them a slightly longer kiss, then let your mouth linger around their neck or ear.\\n2. Change your sexual routine and habits.\\nChanging your habits periodically can keep you from getting into a rut.\\nMonotony and predictability can become the enemies of intimacy, but switching things up from time to time can work wonders for your sex life and overall satisfaction with your relationship. Think about how relations normally go between you and your partner and make little tweaks that break that cycle.\\nFor example, if you normally only cuddle with your partner when you're in bed getting ready to go to sleep for the night, you might cuddle with your partner on the couch after dinner instead.\\nIf you and your partner typically have sex at night before you go to sleep, try setting your alarm a little earlier so you can surprise your partner with sex in the morning.\\n3. Make sex a part of your regular conversations.\\nTalking about sex and intimacy helps you understand each other better.\\nMake what turns you on and what gets you in the mood as much a part of daily conversation as what food you like to eat or activities you enjoy. You'll find that you feel closer to your partner and can better anticipate when the time is right for more intimate interactions with each other.\\nFor example, you might mention that you really enjoy having sex to release tension after you've had a stressful day at work.\\nThis isn't about having conversations specifically about sex and intimacy, or even about your relationship. You can just mention these things casually. For example, if your partner casually rests their hand on your leg while they're driving, you might mention that you really like when they do that.\\n4. Increase your connection with your partner slowly.\\nCommit yourself to make an effort every day to reconnect.\\nYou didn't lose your connection overnight and it's unreasonable to expect that you'll get it back overnight. Do little things every day to incrementally rebuild your connection to each other.\\nFor example, you might start by giving your partner a quick peck on the cheek as they leave for work. After about a week of that, start giving them a longer, more lingering kiss. Gradually build up the intimacy, rather than trying to jump right into it (which is likely to feel forced and awkward).\\nTalk to your partner about this, too. Don't make it your secret project. It's not likely to work if they're not on board and willing to put forth some effort as well.\\n5. Build your confidence so you feel more attractive.\\nConfidence makes you feel worthy of physical intimacy.\\nMake a list of 10 things that are great about you. This doesn't necessarily have to be related to your physical appearance—it could be things you're good at or aspects of your personality. Your partner loves you for who you are, not just what you look like.\\nThis is something it can be easy to lose if your appearance has changed a lot since you and your partner first started seeing each other. For example, you might've had children or gained weight. But don't let those things get in the way of loving yourself—own all those special things that make you \\\"you.\\\"\\nIf you're really unhappy with how you look, try doing some mirror work. Just stand in front of the mirror and ignore the critical voice in your head. Instead, focus on the things that you love about your appearance.\\n6. Have an honest talk about your relationship.\\nDiscuss the feelings you have to break down barriers to intimacy.\\nWhen you've been with someone for a long time, little resentments can build up without you even noticing. Take some time to explore these feelings openly and honestly. If you clear the air, you'll be in a better position to rekindle your passion and intimacy.\\nFor example, you might say, \\\"I've been feeling a distance between us lately. Can we take a few minutes tonight to talk about what's going on?\\\"\\nIt also helps to be specific about what you feel is missing in the relationship. For example, you might say, \\\"I've noticed we just don't touch each other as much as we used to and I miss it. Can we talk about that?\\\"\\nIf you and your partner have a hard time engaging in these conversations, consider getting help from a couples counselor. They give you a neutral environment where you can have some of these more difficult conversations with less fear and anxiety.\\n7. Spend time with your partner without distractions.\\nTurn off all of your devices and focus on each other to rebuild emotional intimacy.\\nGetting away from your routine can help you and your partner find each other again. When you first started dating, the time you spent together was just that—time together. Now that you're sharing life, you're also sharing a lot of other things, and that makes it difficult to make time for just the two of you.\\nDon't worry if you feel restless without any distractions—you might try engaging in an activity together to help you focus your attention. For example, you could play a cooperative board game or put together a jigsaw puzzle.\\nIf you have the time and room in your budget, you might even consider a weekend couple's retreat where you disconnect from the world for a couple of days so you can reconnect with each other.\\n8. Reminisce about funny things that happened in the past.\\nLaughing together rekindles your intimacy and connection to each other.\\nWhen you remember the times you laughed together, you'll likely laugh together again. You not only relive that moment, to some extent, through your laughter, but also have a new positive experience with each other. The whole process brings you closer together, increasing your overall relationship satisfaction.\\nThe wonderful thing about this is that it's something you can easily do anytime—you don't have to wait for the \\\"right moment\\\" to recall something funny that happened in your past.\\nIt does help if the memory is somewhat related to what you're doing. For example, if you're both cleaning up the kitchen after dinner, you might say, \\\"Remember that time the dog got into the flour and spread it all over the kitchen? It was such a mess, but all we could do was laugh.\\\" As you laugh along, you'll feel closer to each other.\\n9. Express appreciation for things your partner does.\\nShowing that you appreciate your partner restores emotional intimacy.\\nEveryone likes to know that their efforts are noticed and appreciated. When you tell your partner that you appreciate something they've done, they felt seen—and this translates into more positive and intimate feelings towards you.\\nFor example, you might say, \\\"Hey, I really appreciate you taking out the trash this morning.\\\" And that's it! For little things, that's really all you need to say.\\nYou might go into more detail for something bigger. For example, you might say, \\\"Listen, I need to tell you that I really appreciate you taking the kids out for dinner tonight. I was really struggling to finish this project by the deadline and that couple of hours by myself was exactly what I needed. I love you so much.\\\"\\n10. Leave little notes for your partner to find.\\nSurprise affirmations and compliments enhance emotional intimacy.\\nGet a pack of sticky notes or small note cards and write out a few messages of love and encouragement. Place them around your home or among your partner's things in spots where they're easily found but not immediately visible, then wait.\\nFor example, you might write notes that say \\\"I love you so much,\\\" or \\\"You're my favorite person.\\\" These types of notes can be hidden anywhere.\\nYou can also write more specific notes and put them in places related to what you've written. For example, you might put a note that reads \\\"You look great today\\\" among your partner's toiletries in the bathroom or in a drawer.\\n11. Learn a new skill together.\\nLearning requires vulnerability, which builds emotional intimacy.\\nThis is a really easy way to trigger the same emotions you felt when you first met. When you were first getting to know each other, you were likely really nervous and excited—and that translated into intimacy. When you learn something new, you put yourself out there in the same way, so you'll both feel those same feelings again.\\nOne study showed that couples who engaged in exciting new activities together also increased their overall relationship satisfaction. Just feeling excited about the same thing together can really enhance your connection with your partner in a lot of ways.\\n12. Plan surprise dates for your partner.\\nA surprise date builds mystery and amps up your emotional intimacy.\\nTell your partner to block off a couple of hours, then take them someplace fun. It doesn't have to be an expensive or overly complex outing—just pick something you think they'd like. You can even pick out what they should wear to help add to the mystery.\\nSurprise makes your relationship feel fun and exciting. You'll enjoy planning the surprise and get a little rush from keeping it from your partner. It makes things a little unpredictable (in a good way).\\nFor example, you might make reservations at your partner's favorite restaurant followed by tickets to one of their favorite bands in concert. You might tell them to wear that shirt you like or their new jacket. If you're bad at keeping secrets, you can show them the concert tickets at dinner.\\n13. Develop skills and interests apart from each other.\\nPersonal growth reinvigorates your passion by making you feel like a new person.\\nWhen you first started seeing each other, part of the excitement came from the fact that there were still things about your partner for you to discover. After you've been with each other for a few years, though, you lose a lot of that excitement because you already know each other so well. This changes when each of you does things on your own, then comes back with new and exciting things to share.\\nFor example, suppose you've always been interested in pottery. If you take a pottery class on your own, it'll invigorate and excite you—and you can bring that energy back to your partner.\\nNew skills and interests can also help you and your partner see a \\\"side\\\" of each other that you've never seen before—and that can reinvigorate your passion for each other. For example, if you've never seen your partner's competitive side before, you'll see them in a new light if you watch them play on a rec league soccer team.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"You've been with your partner for years, and you love them. But lately, you're starting to feel like you're not so much \\\"in love\\\" with them anymore. If you're feeling disconnected from your favorite person, you've come to the right place. Here, we've gathered some of the best tips to reignite the passion in your relationship. This challenge is much easier to overcome if you both face it together as a team, so encourage your partner to read this article as well.This article is based on an interview with our love and relationship coach, Nicole Moore, founder and CEO of Love Works Method. Check out the full interview here.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Bring back flirting and affectionate touch.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Touch and flirt with your partner routinely to promote physical intimacy.\", \"描述\": \"When you first started dating, you likely flirted a lot and couldn't keep your hands off each other—but somewhere along the way, that changed. The good news is it's never too late to bring it back. If it's been a while since you acted this way around your partner, start slow and work your way up to it.\\nFor example, you might rest your hand on their arm or leg as you're making a point in a conversation or brush your hand down their back as you pass them in the kitchen.\\nWhenever the mood strikes, give your partner a hug or brief squeeze. You might grab their hand as you're walking together or squeeze their knee when you're sitting next to each other.\\nIn private moments, try running your hand up their leg or down their chest. You also might give them a slightly longer kiss, then let your mouth linger around their neck or ear.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Change your sexual routine and habits.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Changing your habits periodically can keep you from getting into a rut.\", \"描述\": \"Monotony and predictability can become the enemies of intimacy, but switching things up from time to time can work wonders for your sex life and overall satisfaction with your relationship. Think about how relations normally go between you and your partner and make little tweaks that break that cycle.\\nFor example, if you normally only cuddle with your partner when you're in bed getting ready to go to sleep for the night, you might cuddle with your partner on the couch after dinner instead.\\nIf you and your partner typically have sex at night before you go to sleep, try setting your alarm a little earlier so you can surprise your partner with sex in the morning.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Make sex a part of your regular conversations.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Talking about sex and intimacy helps you understand each other better.\", \"描述\": \"Make what turns you on and what gets you in the mood as much a part of daily conversation as what food you like to eat or activities you enjoy. You'll find that you feel closer to your partner and can better anticipate when the time is right for more intimate interactions with each other.\\nFor example, you might mention that you really enjoy having sex to release tension after you've had a stressful day at work.\\nThis isn't about having conversations specifically about sex and intimacy, or even about your relationship. You can just mention these things casually. For example, if your partner casually rests their hand on your leg while they're driving, you might mention that you really like when they do that.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Increase your connection with your partner slowly.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Commit yourself to make an effort every day to reconnect.\", \"描述\": \"You didn't lose your connection overnight and it's unreasonable to expect that you'll get it back overnight. Do little things every day to incrementally rebuild your connection to each other.\\nFor example, you might start by giving your partner a quick peck on the cheek as they leave for work. After about a week of that, start giving them a longer, more lingering kiss. Gradually build up the intimacy, rather than trying to jump right into it (which is likely to feel forced and awkward).\\nTalk to your partner about this, too. Don't make it your secret project. It's not likely to work if they're not on board and willing to put forth some effort as well.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Build your confidence so you feel more attractive.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Confidence makes you feel worthy of physical intimacy.\", \"描述\": \"Make a list of 10 things that are great about you. This doesn't necessarily have to be related to your physical appearance—it could be things you're good at or aspects of your personality. Your partner loves you for who you are, not just what you look like.\\nThis is something it can be easy to lose if your appearance has changed a lot since you and your partner first started seeing each other. For example, you might've had children or gained weight. But don't let those things get in the way of loving yourself—own all those special things that make you \\\"you.\\\"\\nIf you're really unhappy with how you look, try doing some mirror work. Just stand in front of the mirror and ignore the critical voice in your head. Instead, focus on the things that you love about your appearance.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Have an honest talk about your relationship.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Discuss the feelings you have to break down barriers to intimacy.\", \"描述\": \"When you've been with someone for a long time, little resentments can build up without you even noticing. Take some time to explore these feelings openly and honestly. If you clear the air, you'll be in a better position to rekindle your passion and intimacy.\\nFor example, you might say, \\\"I've been feeling a distance between us lately. Can we take a few minutes tonight to talk about what's going on?\\\"\\nIt also helps to be specific about what you feel is missing in the relationship. For example, you might say, \\\"I've noticed we just don't touch each other as much as we used to and I miss it. Can we talk about that?\\\"\\nIf you and your partner have a hard time engaging in these conversations, consider getting help from a couples counselor. They give you a neutral environment where you can have some of these more difficult conversations with less fear and anxiety.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Spend time with your partner without distractions.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Turn off all of your devices and focus on each other to rebuild emotional intimacy.\", \"描述\": \"Getting away from your routine can help you and your partner find each other again. When you first started dating, the time you spent together was just that—time together. Now that you're sharing life, you're also sharing a lot of other things, and that makes it difficult to make time for just the two of you.\\nDon't worry if you feel restless without any distractions—you might try engaging in an activity together to help you focus your attention. For example, you could play a cooperative board game or put together a jigsaw puzzle.\\nIf you have the time and room in your budget, you might even consider a weekend couple's retreat where you disconnect from the world for a couple of days so you can reconnect with each other.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Reminisce about funny things that happened in the past.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Laughing together rekindles your intimacy and connection to each other.\", \"描述\": \"When you remember the times you laughed together, you'll likely laugh together again. You not only relive that moment, to some extent, through your laughter, but also have a new positive experience with each other. The whole process brings you closer together, increasing your overall relationship satisfaction.\\nThe wonderful thing about this is that it's something you can easily do anytime—you don't have to wait for the \\\"right moment\\\" to recall something funny that happened in your past.\\nIt does help if the memory is somewhat related to what you're doing. For example, if you're both cleaning up the kitchen after dinner, you might say, \\\"Remember that time the dog got into the flour and spread it all over the kitchen? It was such a mess, but all we could do was laugh.\\\" As you laugh along, you'll feel closer to each other.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Express appreciation for things your partner does.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Showing that you appreciate your partner restores emotional intimacy.\", \"描述\": \"Everyone likes to know that their efforts are noticed and appreciated. When you tell your partner that you appreciate something they've done, they felt seen—and this translates into more positive and intimate feelings towards you.\\nFor example, you might say, \\\"Hey, I really appreciate you taking out the trash this morning.\\\" And that's it! For little things, that's really all you need to say.\\nYou might go into more detail for something bigger. For example, you might say, \\\"Listen, I need to tell you that I really appreciate you taking the kids out for dinner tonight. I was really struggling to finish this project by the deadline and that couple of hours by myself was exactly what I needed. I love you so much.\\\"\"}]}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Leave little notes for your partner to find.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Surprise affirmations and compliments enhance emotional intimacy.\", \"描述\": \"Get a pack of sticky notes or small note cards and write out a few messages of love and encouragement. Place them around your home or among your partner's things in spots where they're easily found but not immediately visible, then wait.\\nFor example, you might write notes that say \\\"I love you so much,\\\" or \\\"You're my favorite person.\\\" These types of notes can be hidden anywhere.\\nYou can also write more specific notes and put them in places related to what you've written. For example, you might put a note that reads \\\"You look great today\\\" among your partner's toiletries in the bathroom or in a drawer.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 11, \"标题\": \"Learn a new skill together.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Learning requires vulnerability, which builds emotional intimacy.\", \"描述\": \"This is a really easy way to trigger the same emotions you felt when you first met. When you were first getting to know each other, you were likely really nervous and excited—and that translated into intimacy. When you learn something new, you put yourself out there in the same way, so you'll both feel those same feelings again.\\nOne study showed that couples who engaged in exciting new activities together also increased their overall relationship satisfaction. Just feeling excited about the same thing together can really enhance your connection with your partner in a lot of ways.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 12, \"标题\": \"Plan surprise dates for your partner.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"A surprise date builds mystery and amps up your emotional intimacy.\", \"描述\": \"Tell your partner to block off a couple of hours, then take them someplace fun. It doesn't have to be an expensive or overly complex outing—just pick something you think they'd like. You can even pick out what they should wear to help add to the mystery.\\nSurprise makes your relationship feel fun and exciting. You'll enjoy planning the surprise and get a little rush from keeping it from your partner. It makes things a little unpredictable (in a good way).\\nFor example, you might make reservations at your partner's favorite restaurant followed by tickets to one of their favorite bands in concert. You might tell them to wear that shirt you like or their new jacket. If you're bad at keeping secrets, you can show them the concert tickets at dinner.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 13, \"标题\": \"Develop skills and interests apart from each other.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Personal growth reinvigorates your passion by making you feel like a new person.\", \"描述\": \"When you first started seeing each other, part of the excitement came from the fact that there were still things about your partner for you to discover. After you've been with each other for a few years, though, you lose a lot of that excitement because you already know each other so well. This changes when each of you does things on your own, then comes back with new and exciting things to share.\\nFor example, suppose you've always been interested in pottery. If you take a pottery class on your own, it'll invigorate and excite you—and you can bring that energy back to your partner.\\nNew skills and interests can also help you and your partner see a \\\"side\\\" of each other that you've never seen before—and that can reinvigorate your passion for each other. For example, if you've never seen your partner's competitive side before, you'll see them in a new light if you watch them play on a rec league soccer team.\"}]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,005 |
How to Bring Love Into a Relationship
|
1. Being Open to Love
1-1. Open yourself up to a deeper relationship.
Being willing to love, and be loved, can be an uneasy experience sometimes because you may be afraid of getting hurt, or making the wrong move. Take your mind away from the "what if" and focus on being caring, loving, and respectful of your partner in the present.
Make sure that you don’t feel pressured by your partner to commit to a relationship that you’re not sure about. Be honest about what your motivations are for being with that person.
Often times, being open to love is about being happy with yourself. If you are not happy with who you are, or what’s going on in your life, it will be hard to find and receive love.
1-2. Imagine being with your partner long-term.
One way to know if you love someone is to imagine you’re in a long-term relationship with him. Do you see yourself with your partner in a year from now? Five years from now? Or even longer? If not, you may want to see if this relationship is simply based on physical desire, or a way to feel less lonely.
During the first few months of dating you may not be sure if you see yourself long-term with someone. It’s okay. Love often grows over time.
Be aware of how you feel as the months of dating progress. If you feel less interested in someone over time, don’t force yourself to say "I love you" or be in love with someone just because.
1-3. Talk about your feelings.
It’s okay to say what you feel, just understand that your partner is not you, and may not respond exactly the way you do. Be vulnerable, and say how you feel about the person. It can be tough, but ultimately communication is key to a lasting relationship.
Think about if you have meaningful conversations that show your true self to your partner. Love is about talking about who you really are, including your hopes, dreams, and worries. Be honest.
If you've been a relationship for a while, consider conversations that focus on positive feelings, rather than negative. Remind your partner what makes her special by talking about how you feel.
2. Showing that You Care
2-1. Express your love beyond physical intimacy.
Love is not all about attraction, kissing, and sex. Love is both a physical and emotional connection with your partner. Depending on your partner, there are many ways to show that you care deeply about someone. Ask your partner what makes him feel loved and cared for. What activities, actions, words, or gifts make him feel warm and fuzzy? The way you show love and the way your partner receives love may be different, so asking what makes him feel loved is the best way to know ensure you're expressing your love in a way he understands.
Give a compliment, or words of encouragement. Express with words what you like, and love, about your partner. Make him feel good about himself.
Give a gift, or make a symbolic gesture of love. Give flowers or chocolates. Make a favorite meal. Write a love letter. Play or send a song. Draw a picture that shows you care.
Give an act of service. You’d be surprised how the little things — like fixing something that’s broken, or completing an task your partner doesn't want to do — can make your partner feel cared for. Give your time and skills to your partner.
2-2. Be both physically and emotionally present with your partner.
It is crucial that your partner feels that you are interested, and listening, to her concerns, her passions and her dreams. You can’t just be physically present, but emotionally distant, or emotionally engaged but without any desire for your partner. Love means all of the above.
While you don’t need to be "present" all the time, it is important that you at least acknowledge your partner’s concerns, with words like, “I’m sorry you had a rough day.”
Try setting aside 10 – 30 minutes a day to talk about each other's days. It could be at dinner or after getting into bed. It sounds so simple, but checking in is an important part of maintaining a connection, and making a routine can make it a habit.
Don’t let yourself be distracted by other things when talking with your partner about something important. Be mindful of how and when to give your significant other your full attention.
2-3. Say "I love you" when it feels right.
There is no perfect timing for when to say "I love you." If it's early in a relationship, think about whether saying "I love you" is more about your heightened desire for that person, or is it because you really know him? Each person is different, and may have a different level of comfort about how and when to say these words.
If you're not yet ready to say, "I love you," try "I love it when you..." or, "I love your..." instead.
If you’ve been dating for a year or more already, saying “I love you” may just feel like a force of habit. Make sure that saying “I love you” has meaning and passion behind it.
2-4. Cultivate memories.
If you're trying to reconnect with your partner, consider doing things that you both enjoyed when you were first dating. Talk about the good times that you've shared. This may help to show the strength and importance of the relationship over time.
Use history as a way to connect (or reconnect), by remembering important milestones in the relationship.
By honoring those milestones, you are showing your partner that you think of her outside of the normal routine.
2-5. Practice "love" every day.
There are lots of things that can prevent us making love a priority. Make a conscious effort to make the actions and emotions of "love" a part of your daily routine:.
Hold hands. Give a hug. Snuggle up to each other on the couch. This isn't just about sex, but the importance of being close in the simplest of ways.
Be positive in the ways you interact. Make sure that you give more than one compliment throughout the day (or however often you see your partner). It can be even as simple as saying, "Thank you for all you do," or, "You're amazing for doing that."
3. Trusting Your Significant Other
3-1. Be patient that a lasting love doesn’t happen overnight.
While you may have felt an instant connection with someone, it is open communication and commitment that will keep that love alive. Don’t force yourself to love someone, or say that you are "in love" with someone when you are still getting to know who he is and what he cares about.
Love at first sight may happen, but it’s the journey after that initial spark that is far more telling of whether your love will last.
Give love a chance to grow. Sometimes we may not be instantly "in love" with someone. Give yourself and your partner a chance to really get to know each other, rather than what you see at first.
3-2. Give your partner space.
Don’t crowd yourself into your partner’s life, and make her (or you) the center of the universe. It is far sexier to both men and women when you (and your partner) are confident and independent.
Some people need more space than others. Be respectful of your partner’s wishes for space at times. Be confident that just because she needs space doesn’t mean she doesn't care.
Time alone or away from your partner can help give perspective, and can sometimes help to strengthen your relationship.
3-3. Make your time together special.
Time is precious. Make sure to schedule or prioritize time with your partner. This is does not mean you need to schedule activities with your partner every day, all day. Instead, it means that you should focus on "quality" rather than "quantity."
Quality time should be times when you can really talk with someone, or do something out of the ordinary routine. It can mean that your partner knows that he is an important part of your life, and that you value and respect him as a confidant, lover, and friend.
Trusting your partner with personal and private information, and knowing that the information is safe, is key to opening yourself to love. Love is often about having trust in yourself and your significant other.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:58:47",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Being Open to Love\\n1-1. Open yourself up to a deeper relationship.\\nBeing willing to love, and be loved, can be an uneasy experience sometimes because you may be afraid of getting hurt, or making the wrong move. Take your mind away from the \\\"what if\\\" and focus on being caring, loving, and respectful of your partner in the present.\\nMake sure that you don’t feel pressured by your partner to commit to a relationship that you’re not sure about. Be honest about what your motivations are for being with that person.\\nOften times, being open to love is about being happy with yourself. If you are not happy with who you are, or what’s going on in your life, it will be hard to find and receive love.\\n1-2. Imagine being with your partner long-term.\\nOne way to know if you love someone is to imagine you’re in a long-term relationship with him. Do you see yourself with your partner in a year from now? Five years from now? Or even longer? If not, you may want to see if this relationship is simply based on physical desire, or a way to feel less lonely. \\nDuring the first few months of dating you may not be sure if you see yourself long-term with someone. It’s okay. Love often grows over time.\\nBe aware of how you feel as the months of dating progress. If you feel less interested in someone over time, don’t force yourself to say \\\"I love you\\\" or be in love with someone just because.\\n1-3. Talk about your feelings.\\nIt’s okay to say what you feel, just understand that your partner is not you, and may not respond exactly the way you do. Be vulnerable, and say how you feel about the person. It can be tough, but ultimately communication is key to a lasting relationship.\\nThink about if you have meaningful conversations that show your true self to your partner. Love is about talking about who you really are, including your hopes, dreams, and worries. Be honest.\\nIf you've been a relationship for a while, consider conversations that focus on positive feelings, rather than negative. Remind your partner what makes her special by talking about how you feel.\\n2. Showing that You Care\\n2-1. Express your love beyond physical intimacy.\\nLove is not all about attraction, kissing, and sex. Love is both a physical and emotional connection with your partner. Depending on your partner, there are many ways to show that you care deeply about someone. Ask your partner what makes him feel loved and cared for. What activities, actions, words, or gifts make him feel warm and fuzzy? The way you show love and the way your partner receives love may be different, so asking what makes him feel loved is the best way to know ensure you're expressing your love in a way he understands.\\nGive a compliment, or words of encouragement. Express with words what you like, and love, about your partner. Make him feel good about himself.\\nGive a gift, or make a symbolic gesture of love. Give flowers or chocolates. Make a favorite meal. Write a love letter. Play or send a song. Draw a picture that shows you care.\\nGive an act of service. You’d be surprised how the little things — like fixing something that’s broken, or completing an task your partner doesn't want to do — can make your partner feel cared for. Give your time and skills to your partner.\\n2-2. Be both physically and emotionally present with your partner.\\nIt is crucial that your partner feels that you are interested, and listening, to her concerns, her passions and her dreams. You can’t just be physically present, but emotionally distant, or emotionally engaged but without any desire for your partner. Love means all of the above.\\nWhile you don’t need to be \\\"present\\\" all the time, it is important that you at least acknowledge your partner’s concerns, with words like, “I’m sorry you had a rough day.”\\nTry setting aside 10 – 30 minutes a day to talk about each other's days. It could be at dinner or after getting into bed. It sounds so simple, but checking in is an important part of maintaining a connection, and making a routine can make it a habit.\\nDon’t let yourself be distracted by other things when talking with your partner about something important. Be mindful of how and when to give your significant other your full attention.\\n2-3. Say \\\"I love you\\\" when it feels right.\\nThere is no perfect timing for when to say \\\"I love you.\\\" If it's early in a relationship, think about whether saying \\\"I love you\\\" is more about your heightened desire for that person, or is it because you really know him? Each person is different, and may have a different level of comfort about how and when to say these words.\\nIf you're not yet ready to say, \\\"I love you,\\\" try \\\"I love it when you...\\\" or, \\\"I love your...\\\" instead.\\nIf you’ve been dating for a year or more already, saying “I love you” may just feel like a force of habit. Make sure that saying “I love you” has meaning and passion behind it.\\n2-4. Cultivate memories.\\nIf you're trying to reconnect with your partner, consider doing things that you both enjoyed when you were first dating. Talk about the good times that you've shared. This may help to show the strength and importance of the relationship over time.\\nUse history as a way to connect (or reconnect), by remembering important milestones in the relationship.\\nBy honoring those milestones, you are showing your partner that you think of her outside of the normal routine.\\n2-5. Practice \\\"love\\\" every day.\\nThere are lots of things that can prevent us making love a priority. Make a conscious effort to make the actions and emotions of \\\"love\\\" a part of your daily routine:.\\nHold hands. Give a hug. Snuggle up to each other on the couch. This isn't just about sex, but the importance of being close in the simplest of ways.\\nBe positive in the ways you interact. Make sure that you give more than one compliment throughout the day (or however often you see your partner). It can be even as simple as saying, \\\"Thank you for all you do,\\\" or, \\\"You're amazing for doing that.\\\"\\n3. Trusting Your Significant Other\\n3-1. Be patient that a lasting love doesn’t happen overnight.\\nWhile you may have felt an instant connection with someone, it is open communication and commitment that will keep that love alive. Don’t force yourself to love someone, or say that you are \\\"in love\\\" with someone when you are still getting to know who he is and what he cares about. \\nLove at first sight may happen, but it’s the journey after that initial spark that is far more telling of whether your love will last.\\nGive love a chance to grow. Sometimes we may not be instantly \\\"in love\\\" with someone. Give yourself and your partner a chance to really get to know each other, rather than what you see at first.\\n3-2. Give your partner space.\\nDon’t crowd yourself into your partner’s life, and make her (or you) the center of the universe. It is far sexier to both men and women when you (and your partner) are confident and independent. \\nSome people need more space than others. Be respectful of your partner’s wishes for space at times. Be confident that just because she needs space doesn’t mean she doesn't care.\\nTime alone or away from your partner can help give perspective, and can sometimes help to strengthen your relationship.\\n3-3. Make your time together special.\\nTime is precious. Make sure to schedule or prioritize time with your partner. This is does not mean you need to schedule activities with your partner every day, all day. Instead, it means that you should focus on \\\"quality\\\" rather than \\\"quantity.\\\"\\nQuality time should be times when you can really talk with someone, or do something out of the ordinary routine. It can mean that your partner knows that he is an important part of your life, and that you value and respect him as a confidant, lover, and friend.\\nTrusting your partner with personal and private information, and knowing that the information is safe, is key to opening yourself to love. Love is often about having trust in yourself and your significant other.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Unsure about how to move forward in a relationship and express your love? When you’re in a relationship (or just starting one), you may wonder how it will progress, and how to express that you care. While some may think that having sex or saying \\\"I love you\\\" are the ways to bring love into a relationship, love is not just words or physical intimacy. Love is a deeper expression of your connection with a person both physically and emotionally.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Being Open to Love\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Open yourself up to a deeper relationship.\", \"描述\": \"Being willing to love, and be loved, can be an uneasy experience sometimes because you may be afraid of getting hurt, or making the wrong move. Take your mind away from the \\\"what if\\\" and focus on being caring, loving, and respectful of your partner in the present.\\nMake sure that you don’t feel pressured by your partner to commit to a relationship that you’re not sure about. Be honest about what your motivations are for being with that person.\\nOften times, being open to love is about being happy with yourself. If you are not happy with who you are, or what’s going on in your life, it will be hard to find and receive love.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Imagine being with your partner long-term.\", \"描述\": \"One way to know if you love someone is to imagine you’re in a long-term relationship with him. Do you see yourself with your partner in a year from now? Five years from now? Or even longer? If not, you may want to see if this relationship is simply based on physical desire, or a way to feel less lonely. \\nDuring the first few months of dating you may not be sure if you see yourself long-term with someone. It’s okay. Love often grows over time.\\nBe aware of how you feel as the months of dating progress. If you feel less interested in someone over time, don’t force yourself to say \\\"I love you\\\" or be in love with someone just because.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Talk about your feelings.\", \"描述\": \"It’s okay to say what you feel, just understand that your partner is not you, and may not respond exactly the way you do. Be vulnerable, and say how you feel about the person. It can be tough, but ultimately communication is key to a lasting relationship.\\nThink about if you have meaningful conversations that show your true self to your partner. Love is about talking about who you really are, including your hopes, dreams, and worries. Be honest.\\nIf you've been a relationship for a while, consider conversations that focus on positive feelings, rather than negative. Remind your partner what makes her special by talking about how you feel.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Showing that You Care\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Express your love beyond physical intimacy.\", \"描述\": \"Love is not all about attraction, kissing, and sex. Love is both a physical and emotional connection with your partner. Depending on your partner, there are many ways to show that you care deeply about someone. Ask your partner what makes him feel loved and cared for. What activities, actions, words, or gifts make him feel warm and fuzzy? The way you show love and the way your partner receives love may be different, so asking what makes him feel loved is the best way to know ensure you're expressing your love in a way he understands.\\nGive a compliment, or words of encouragement. Express with words what you like, and love, about your partner. Make him feel good about himself.\\nGive a gift, or make a symbolic gesture of love. Give flowers or chocolates. Make a favorite meal. Write a love letter. Play or send a song. Draw a picture that shows you care.\\nGive an act of service. You’d be surprised how the little things — like fixing something that’s broken, or completing an task your partner doesn't want to do — can make your partner feel cared for. Give your time and skills to your partner.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Be both physically and emotionally present with your partner.\", \"描述\": \"It is crucial that your partner feels that you are interested, and listening, to her concerns, her passions and her dreams. You can’t just be physically present, but emotionally distant, or emotionally engaged but without any desire for your partner. Love means all of the above.\\nWhile you don’t need to be \\\"present\\\" all the time, it is important that you at least acknowledge your partner’s concerns, with words like, “I’m sorry you had a rough day.”\\nTry setting aside 10 – 30 minutes a day to talk about each other's days. It could be at dinner or after getting into bed. It sounds so simple, but checking in is an important part of maintaining a connection, and making a routine can make it a habit.\\nDon’t let yourself be distracted by other things when talking with your partner about something important. Be mindful of how and when to give your significant other your full attention.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Say \\\"I love you\\\" when it feels right.\", \"描述\": \"There is no perfect timing for when to say \\\"I love you.\\\" If it's early in a relationship, think about whether saying \\\"I love you\\\" is more about your heightened desire for that person, or is it because you really know him? Each person is different, and may have a different level of comfort about how and when to say these words.\\nIf you're not yet ready to say, \\\"I love you,\\\" try \\\"I love it when you...\\\" or, \\\"I love your...\\\" instead.\\nIf you’ve been dating for a year or more already, saying “I love you” may just feel like a force of habit. Make sure that saying “I love you” has meaning and passion behind it.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Cultivate memories.\", \"描述\": \"If you're trying to reconnect with your partner, consider doing things that you both enjoyed when you were first dating. Talk about the good times that you've shared. This may help to show the strength and importance of the relationship over time.\\nUse history as a way to connect (or reconnect), by remembering important milestones in the relationship.\\nBy honoring those milestones, you are showing your partner that you think of her outside of the normal routine.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Practice \\\"love\\\" every day.\", \"描述\": \"There are lots of things that can prevent us making love a priority. Make a conscious effort to make the actions and emotions of \\\"love\\\" a part of your daily routine:.\\nHold hands. Give a hug. Snuggle up to each other on the couch. This isn't just about sex, but the importance of being close in the simplest of ways.\\nBe positive in the ways you interact. Make sure that you give more than one compliment throughout the day (or however often you see your partner). It can be even as simple as saying, \\\"Thank you for all you do,\\\" or, \\\"You're amazing for doing that.\\\"\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Trusting Your Significant Other\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Be patient that a lasting love doesn’t happen overnight.\", \"描述\": \"While you may have felt an instant connection with someone, it is open communication and commitment that will keep that love alive. Don’t force yourself to love someone, or say that you are \\\"in love\\\" with someone when you are still getting to know who he is and what he cares about. \\nLove at first sight may happen, but it’s the journey after that initial spark that is far more telling of whether your love will last.\\nGive love a chance to grow. Sometimes we may not be instantly \\\"in love\\\" with someone. Give yourself and your partner a chance to really get to know each other, rather than what you see at first.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Give your partner space.\", \"描述\": \"Don’t crowd yourself into your partner’s life, and make her (or you) the center of the universe. It is far sexier to both men and women when you (and your partner) are confident and independent. \\nSome people need more space than others. Be respectful of your partner’s wishes for space at times. Be confident that just because she needs space doesn’t mean she doesn't care.\\nTime alone or away from your partner can help give perspective, and can sometimes help to strengthen your relationship.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Make your time together special.\", \"描述\": \"Time is precious. Make sure to schedule or prioritize time with your partner. This is does not mean you need to schedule activities with your partner every day, all day. Instead, it means that you should focus on \\\"quality\\\" rather than \\\"quantity.\\\"\\nQuality time should be times when you can really talk with someone, or do something out of the ordinary routine. It can mean that your partner knows that he is an important part of your life, and that you value and respect him as a confidant, lover, and friend.\\nTrusting your partner with personal and private information, and knowing that the information is safe, is key to opening yourself to love. Love is often about having trust in yourself and your significant other.\"}]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,006 |
How to Bring Out Green Eyes
|
1. Try deep purple shades of clothing for a bold look.
Purple makes green pop since they’re opposite on the color wheel.
You can also experiment by doubling up and wearing multiple shades of purple simultaneously. Try going for warm purples with red or pink undertones to make your eyes stand out more.
Check out the effect when you put on a lavender t-shirt and a dark purple zip-front hoodie on top.
2. Complement your eye color with coral clothing.
Coral is a light, summery color that makes green eyes pop.
When it’s warm out, throw on a coral-colored sundress or T-shirt to really make your eyes stand out. Try a coral-colored statement necklace or earrings to really pull the look together.
If you aren’t a huge fan of coral, try pale yellow instead. It’s also a light, summery color that will make your eyes pop.
3. Emphasize your eye color with green clothing.
Deep emeralds and dark hunter greens will make your eyes pop.
Whatever clothing item you wear closest to your irises—the green-colored part of your eyes—will emphasize their color. Since many shades of green will make green eyes pop, try wearing shirts and jackets in your favorite shade.
A deep emerald green dress would look great for an evening event.
Slip on a neutral green jacket or hoodie for a casual look.
4. Match your jewelry to your eyes to make a statement.
Draw attention to your eye color with pieces that match it exactly.
Try a statement necklace with green stones or long, dangly green earrings. When it comes to choosing metal, go with the one that matches your skin tone. Warm skin tones look best in gold, whereas cool skin tones look best in silver.
For example, wear a silver drop pendant with a green stone as the focal point if you have a cool skin tone.
If you have a warm skin tone, try emerald or peridot earrings with gold metal accents.
5. Try green accessories and ties.
Add pops of color to your look while emphasizing your green eyes.
Go for green scarves, shawls, beanies, headbands, or bowties when you head out the door. The close the shade of green is to your eyes, the more your outfit will pop!
A pastel green scarf would look great with light green eyes.
Get a dressier look by wearing an emerald-colored shawl or wrap.
Mix things up with a green on green striped tie.
If you’re heading to a formal event and really want to make a splash, put on an olive-colored bow tie.
6. Dye your hair a copper or red tone.
Red is opposite green on the color wheel, so it really sets off green eyes.
Choose a shade of red dye that harmonizes with your skin tone for best results. Stay within 3 shades of your current hair color if you’re aiming for a natural look.
If you don’t want to use chemical or box dyes, try henna instead.
If you're warm-toned, go for vibrant or coppery red shades, or anything with a golden tone. Feeling adventurous? Try brighter red highlights!
If you're cool-toned, try muted reds like strawberry blonde or rose gold.
7. Pick brown eye makeup for a natural look.
Brown liner and shadow makes green eyes pop without looking harsh.
Black liner can be a little too much for green eyes. Try a deep chocolatey kohl, pencil, or liquid liner to bring out green eyes. Blend your liner or shadow in with a fluffy brush for a defined yet natural makeup look.
Brush deep brown shades of eyeshadow with rich golden undertones on your lids to accentuate them.
If you have a warm skin tone, use copper, tan, and other warm brown shades. Cool skin tones work best with ash brown, taupe, and silver-brown shades.
8. Try deep purple eye makeup for a pop of color.
Purple and green are opposite on the color wheel.
Try lining your top lids with a deep purple eyeliner, then brushing on a rich purple eyeshadow, stopping at the crease. Smudge the liner so that it blends into the eyeshadow for a flattering and dramatic look.
Try sweeping on a deep plum eyeshadow or eyeliner to make your green eyes pop.
Try a deep purple cream eyeshadow with a slightly metallic tinge to it for a bright-eyed and subtler finish.
9. Use charcoal gray eye makeup for a softer look.
Play up the green in your eyes with a stony gray color.
Since black eyeliner can overwhelm green eyes, use charcoal liner or eyeshadow to get the same definition without the harsh color. If you want more definition and the freedom to create cat eyes and other shapes, go with a waterproof liquid liner in charcoal.
A deep charcoal eyeshadow on your top lids will also look great!
10. Add a pop of green to your eye makeup look.
Using green eye makeup is the best way to make your eyes pop.
Try using green eyeliner, green eyeshadow, or green mascara—just don’t wear all 3 at the same time! All it takes is just a hint of green to make your eyes stand out. Pick a shade that doesn’t match your eyes exactly so your look meshes well.
For example, if you apply green eyeliner, use black or brown mascara.
If you wear green eyeshadow, use black mascara.
Green eyeliner and mascara work together, but skip the eyeshadow.
Tips
When you’re planning your green eye-boosting look, be sure to consider how everything will fit together. Red hair and vivid green clothes, for example, can be overwhelming, but red hair with olive green can be more moderate.
Matching your eye color should be with accents. Overdoing matching colors can actually overwhelm the natural shade of your eyes.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:58:47",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Try deep purple shades of clothing for a bold look.\\nPurple makes green pop since they’re opposite on the color wheel.\\nYou can also experiment by doubling up and wearing multiple shades of purple simultaneously. Try going for warm purples with red or pink undertones to make your eyes stand out more.\\nCheck out the effect when you put on a lavender t-shirt and a dark purple zip-front hoodie on top.\\n2. Complement your eye color with coral clothing.\\nCoral is a light, summery color that makes green eyes pop.\\nWhen it’s warm out, throw on a coral-colored sundress or T-shirt to really make your eyes stand out. Try a coral-colored statement necklace or earrings to really pull the look together.\\nIf you aren’t a huge fan of coral, try pale yellow instead. It’s also a light, summery color that will make your eyes pop.\\n3. Emphasize your eye color with green clothing.\\nDeep emeralds and dark hunter greens will make your eyes pop.\\nWhatever clothing item you wear closest to your irises—the green-colored part of your eyes—will emphasize their color. Since many shades of green will make green eyes pop, try wearing shirts and jackets in your favorite shade.\\nA deep emerald green dress would look great for an evening event.\\nSlip on a neutral green jacket or hoodie for a casual look.\\n4. Match your jewelry to your eyes to make a statement.\\nDraw attention to your eye color with pieces that match it exactly.\\nTry a statement necklace with green stones or long, dangly green earrings. When it comes to choosing metal, go with the one that matches your skin tone. Warm skin tones look best in gold, whereas cool skin tones look best in silver.\\nFor example, wear a silver drop pendant with a green stone as the focal point if you have a cool skin tone.\\nIf you have a warm skin tone, try emerald or peridot earrings with gold metal accents.\\n5. Try green accessories and ties.\\nAdd pops of color to your look while emphasizing your green eyes.\\nGo for green scarves, shawls, beanies, headbands, or bowties when you head out the door. The close the shade of green is to your eyes, the more your outfit will pop!\\nA pastel green scarf would look great with light green eyes.\\nGet a dressier look by wearing an emerald-colored shawl or wrap.\\nMix things up with a green on green striped tie.\\nIf you’re heading to a formal event and really want to make a splash, put on an olive-colored bow tie.\\n6. Dye your hair a copper or red tone.\\nRed is opposite green on the color wheel, so it really sets off green eyes.\\nChoose a shade of red dye that harmonizes with your skin tone for best results. Stay within 3 shades of your current hair color if you’re aiming for a natural look.\\nIf you don’t want to use chemical or box dyes, try henna instead.\\nIf you're warm-toned, go for vibrant or coppery red shades, or anything with a golden tone. Feeling adventurous? Try brighter red highlights!\\nIf you're cool-toned, try muted reds like strawberry blonde or rose gold.\\n7. Pick brown eye makeup for a natural look.\\nBrown liner and shadow makes green eyes pop without looking harsh.\\nBlack liner can be a little too much for green eyes. Try a deep chocolatey kohl, pencil, or liquid liner to bring out green eyes. Blend your liner or shadow in with a fluffy brush for a defined yet natural makeup look.\\nBrush deep brown shades of eyeshadow with rich golden undertones on your lids to accentuate them.\\nIf you have a warm skin tone, use copper, tan, and other warm brown shades. Cool skin tones work best with ash brown, taupe, and silver-brown shades.\\n8. Try deep purple eye makeup for a pop of color.\\nPurple and green are opposite on the color wheel.\\nTry lining your top lids with a deep purple eyeliner, then brushing on a rich purple eyeshadow, stopping at the crease. Smudge the liner so that it blends into the eyeshadow for a flattering and dramatic look.\\nTry sweeping on a deep plum eyeshadow or eyeliner to make your green eyes pop.\\nTry a deep purple cream eyeshadow with a slightly metallic tinge to it for a bright-eyed and subtler finish.\\n9. Use charcoal gray eye makeup for a softer look.\\nPlay up the green in your eyes with a stony gray color.\\nSince black eyeliner can overwhelm green eyes, use charcoal liner or eyeshadow to get the same definition without the harsh color. If you want more definition and the freedom to create cat eyes and other shapes, go with a waterproof liquid liner in charcoal.\\nA deep charcoal eyeshadow on your top lids will also look great!\\n10. Add a pop of green to your eye makeup look.\\nUsing green eye makeup is the best way to make your eyes pop.\\nTry using green eyeliner, green eyeshadow, or green mascara—just don’t wear all 3 at the same time! All it takes is just a hint of green to make your eyes stand out. Pick a shade that doesn’t match your eyes exactly so your look meshes well.\\nFor example, if you apply green eyeliner, use black or brown mascara.\\nIf you wear green eyeshadow, use black mascara.\\nGreen eyeliner and mascara work together, but skip the eyeshadow.\\nTips\\nWhen you’re planning your green eye-boosting look, be sure to consider how everything will fit together. Red hair and vivid green clothes, for example, can be overwhelming, but red hair with olive green can be more moderate.\\nMatching your eye color should be with accents. Overdoing matching colors can actually overwhelm the natural shade of your eyes.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Green is the rarest of all eye colors—why wouldn’t you want to show it off? Using the right hair color, clothing, and makeup can accentuate your eyes and draw attention to them while you’re out and about. \\n\\nHere are 9 ways you can bring out your green eyes and make them pop.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Try deep purple shades of clothing for a bold look.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Purple makes green pop since they’re opposite on the color wheel.\", \"描述\": \"You can also experiment by doubling up and wearing multiple shades of purple simultaneously. Try going for warm purples with red or pink undertones to make your eyes stand out more.\\nCheck out the effect when you put on a lavender t-shirt and a dark purple zip-front hoodie on top.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Complement your eye color with coral clothing.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Coral is a light, summery color that makes green eyes pop.\", \"描述\": \"When it’s warm out, throw on a coral-colored sundress or T-shirt to really make your eyes stand out. Try a coral-colored statement necklace or earrings to really pull the look together.\\nIf you aren’t a huge fan of coral, try pale yellow instead. It’s also a light, summery color that will make your eyes pop.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Emphasize your eye color with green clothing.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Deep emeralds and dark hunter greens will make your eyes pop.\", \"描述\": \"Whatever clothing item you wear closest to your irises—the green-colored part of your eyes—will emphasize their color. Since many shades of green will make green eyes pop, try wearing shirts and jackets in your favorite shade.\\nA deep emerald green dress would look great for an evening event.\\nSlip on a neutral green jacket or hoodie for a casual look.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Match your jewelry to your eyes to make a statement.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Draw attention to your eye color with pieces that match it exactly.\", \"描述\": \"Try a statement necklace with green stones or long, dangly green earrings. When it comes to choosing metal, go with the one that matches your skin tone. Warm skin tones look best in gold, whereas cool skin tones look best in silver.\\nFor example, wear a silver drop pendant with a green stone as the focal point if you have a cool skin tone.\\nIf you have a warm skin tone, try emerald or peridot earrings with gold metal accents.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Try green accessories and ties.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Add pops of color to your look while emphasizing your green eyes.\", \"描述\": \"Go for green scarves, shawls, beanies, headbands, or bowties when you head out the door. The close the shade of green is to your eyes, the more your outfit will pop!\\nA pastel green scarf would look great with light green eyes.\\nGet a dressier look by wearing an emerald-colored shawl or wrap.\\nMix things up with a green on green striped tie.\\nIf you’re heading to a formal event and really want to make a splash, put on an olive-colored bow tie.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Dye your hair a copper or red tone.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Red is opposite green on the color wheel, so it really sets off green eyes.\", \"描述\": \"Choose a shade of red dye that harmonizes with your skin tone for best results. Stay within 3 shades of your current hair color if you’re aiming for a natural look.\\nIf you don’t want to use chemical or box dyes, try henna instead.\\nIf you're warm-toned, go for vibrant or coppery red shades, or anything with a golden tone. Feeling adventurous? Try brighter red highlights!\\nIf you're cool-toned, try muted reds like strawberry blonde or rose gold.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Pick brown eye makeup for a natural look.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Brown liner and shadow makes green eyes pop without looking harsh.\", \"描述\": \"Black liner can be a little too much for green eyes. Try a deep chocolatey kohl, pencil, or liquid liner to bring out green eyes. Blend your liner or shadow in with a fluffy brush for a defined yet natural makeup look.\\nBrush deep brown shades of eyeshadow with rich golden undertones on your lids to accentuate them.\\nIf you have a warm skin tone, use copper, tan, and other warm brown shades. Cool skin tones work best with ash brown, taupe, and silver-brown shades.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Try deep purple eye makeup for a pop of color.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Purple and green are opposite on the color wheel.\", \"描述\": \"Try lining your top lids with a deep purple eyeliner, then brushing on a rich purple eyeshadow, stopping at the crease. Smudge the liner so that it blends into the eyeshadow for a flattering and dramatic look.\\nTry sweeping on a deep plum eyeshadow or eyeliner to make your green eyes pop.\\nTry a deep purple cream eyeshadow with a slightly metallic tinge to it for a bright-eyed and subtler finish.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Use charcoal gray eye makeup for a softer look.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Play up the green in your eyes with a stony gray color.\", \"描述\": \"Since black eyeliner can overwhelm green eyes, use charcoal liner or eyeshadow to get the same definition without the harsh color. If you want more definition and the freedom to create cat eyes and other shapes, go with a waterproof liquid liner in charcoal.\\nA deep charcoal eyeshadow on your top lids will also look great!\"}]}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Add a pop of green to your eye makeup look.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Using green eye makeup is the best way to make your eyes pop.\", \"描述\": \"Try using green eyeliner, green eyeshadow, or green mascara—just don’t wear all 3 at the same time! All it takes is just a hint of green to make your eyes stand out. Pick a shade that doesn’t match your eyes exactly so your look meshes well.\\nFor example, if you apply green eyeliner, use black or brown mascara.\\nIf you wear green eyeshadow, use black mascara.\\nGreen eyeliner and mascara work together, but skip the eyeshadow.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"When you’re planning your green eye-boosting look, be sure to consider how everything will fit together. Red hair and vivid green clothes, for example, can be overwhelming, but red hair with olive green can be more moderate.\\n\", \"Matching your eye color should be with accents. Overdoing matching colors can actually overwhelm the natural shade of your eyes.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,007 |
How to Bring Out the Natural Curl in Your Hair
|
1. Bringing Out the Curl in Straight or Wavy Hair
1-1. Use medium-bodied shampoo and conditioner.
Choose products that will help to define your curls without weighing down your hair. Look for curl-defining shampoo and conditioner that helps to bring out the curl while also hydrating your hair to keep it shiny and strong.<re
1-2. Finger-comb your hair to detangle it.
Using your fingers instead of a brush or comb will help your natural curls stay together, rather than pulling them apart. When you want your hair to look as curly as possible, your fingers are the best tools you can use to handle your hair.
1-3. Flip your hair over and blot it dry in sections.
Use your fingers to gently pull apart strands of hair into separate sections, leaving your natural waves as intact as possible. Use a soft microfiber towel to blot each section of hair dry, starting at the roots and working down to the tips.
When you let your hair air dry without separating it into sections, the mass of wet hair tends to clump up as it dries instead of separating into well-defined curls.
Don't towel your hair dry roughly, since this can cause it to get frizzy. Just gently blot your hair dry to the tips.
1-4. Apply curl-defining gel or lotion.
Instead of running it through your hair from the roots to the tips, rub some product between your palms and cup your hair from the bottom, gently scrunching each section of hair from the bottom and using your fingers to apply it to the length of your hair. This will help your curls stay bouncy instead of weighing them down.
As you apply the product, squeeze your hair gently to help lift up the curls.
1-5. Dry your hair with a diffuser.
After it has air-dried to the point where it's no longer dripping, flip your hair upside down. Use the diffuser attachment on your hair dryer to dry your hair in sections, pointing up from the bottom instead of drying from the top down. Lift the section you're drying onto the diffuser and gently push up with the diffuser to help define your curls. Continue section by section until your hair is mostly dry.
Drying your hair without the diffuser will blow out your curls, so make sure you use the attachment.
At this point, handle your hair with your fingers as little as possible; let the diffuser do the work. Handling your hair too much will lead to frizzing.
1-6. Finish with light-hold hairspray.
This will keep your curls from falling out too quickly, especially if it's humid outside. To keep your curls lasting as long as possible, try not to touch your hair throughout the day. Avoid wearing a hat or using hair accessories that might weigh your hair down.
2. Defining Curls in Curly or Kinky Hair
2-1. Wash your hair sparingly.
Curly or kinky hair tends to be a little drier and coarser than straight hair. Since it has a spiral shape, the natural oils produced by the scalp don't make it all the way to the tips, resulting in hair that isn't naturally as conditioned as straight hair. Curlier hair requires a different sort of treatment from straighter hair, and that starts with washing it less often.
If you wash your hair every day, try cutting back to just two times a week and see if you notice that your curls are less dry.
Everyone's hair texture and oil level is a little different, so experiment and see what works for you. It might take a few weeks before you figure out how many times a week you need to wash your hair to keep it clean but also well conditioned.
2-2. Consider washing with conditioner instead of shampoo.
Many people with curly or kinky hair have switched from regular shampooing to the co-wash method. They have found that washing with conditioner instead of shampoo gets it just as clean without drying it out. Conditioner moisturizes coils and keeps them in good shape, rather than pulling them apart.
Look for a conditioner that does not contain silicones. These make your hair shiny at first, but eventually they build up and leave curls looking weighed down and dull.
If you choose to use shampoo, get one that's sulfate-free or is labeled as moisturizing or nourishing. Sulfates are a cleansing agent that dry out hair, cause frizz, and they wreak havoc on a curly head.
2-3. Find a deep conditioner that gives you the texture you desire.
There are so many deep conditioners on the market that it can be difficult to choose which one to buy. You can actually use your normal conditioner as a deep conditioner; just leave it in your hair for a few hours before rinsing it out. If you're up for experimenting, try adding different different deep conditioning treatments to find one that works with your curls. Here are a few common natural conditioners:
Honey. Mix 2 tablespoons of honey with 2 tablespoons of water. Work the mixture through your hair section by section. Let it sit for an hour, then rinse it out.
OIive oil or coconut oil. Work section by section to finger-comb the oil into your hair. Let it sit for an hour, then rinse it out. Your hair may still feel a bit oily, so if it bothers you, rinse it along with shampoo.
Egg whites. An egg white rinse will leave your hair looking shiny and moisturized. Separate two eggs and stir the whites together. Dilute with a little water. Work the mixture into your hair section by section. Let it sit for an hour, then rinse with the coldest water you can tolerate.
2-4. Use a finishing oil or butter.
This seals your hair's cuticle so that your hair will stay hydrated even after your hair is dry. Working section by section, smooth your oil or finishing butter of choice into your curls, finger combing so that the curls stay intact. The following oils and butters are popular choices:
Argan oil
Shea butter
Cocoa butter
Creams that contain one of the above ingredients
Curl-defining serums
2-5. Avoid products that dry out your hair.
The styling products you use have the potential to dry out your hair and create frizz. Before you use hairspray, gel, and other styling products, test them on just one small section of hair to see the results before you cover your entire head with it.
2-6. Do not brush your hair.
If you have curly or kinky hair, particularly if you have tight coils, brushing your hair will separate it and leave you looking poofy and frizzy. This type of hair never really needs to be brushed. If you need to detangle your hair, finger-comb it section by section, or use a wide-tooth comb if you don't have tight coils.
If your hair is more wavy than curly, you can use a boar-bristle brush to brush your hair, but only when it's dry. A boar-bristle brush is made with bristles that are similar to the texture of your hair, so it won't damage your curls. It's used to help move your scalp's natural oils down the length of your hair.
3. Styling Curls
3-1. Get your curls cut by a stylist who knows curls.
Curls are notoriously difficult to cut. When it's done the wrong way, you can end up with a style that just doesn't look right with your hair texture. Do some research to find a stylist who's experienced in cutting curly hair. Look online for reviews, or ask your curly-haired friends for a recommendation.
Tell the stylist you want to avoid triangle hair, and see what he or she says. Anyone experienced in cutting curly hair knows what this means. Triangle hair is when the heavy curls grow in the shape of a triangular helmet. A good stylist will be able to cut the curls in such a way that they have better shape and movement.
If a stylist wants to "thin" your hair with thinning shears, that's a red flag. Thinning shears can cause curly hair to frizz.
3-2. Air dry or diffuse your hair instead of blowing it out.
Using a full blast of heat to dry curls will make your hair texture drier and coarser over time. It's better to let your curls air dry or diffuse on a low setting so your hair retains its bounce and stays hydrated. Finger-comb your curls section by section, then let them air dry so they stay bouncy and sleek.
If you're concerned about getting more volume near your roots, use small clips to lift up your hair near your scalp. The hair will dry with a little more lift than it otherwise would.
3-3. Handle your hair gently.
Scrunching, brushing, towel-drying, twisting, and otherwise roughly handling curly hair can crush and separate the curls, making it look frizzy and messy. To keep your curls coiled, avoid touching your hair except when you really need to. When you're applying produce or finger-combing, separate your hair into sections and work on each one gently. Here are a few other ways you can avoid getting frizzy:
Sleep on a silk pillowcase designed to provide a soft surface for your hair. It's good for your skin, too.
Avoid styles that pull too much on your curls, and use hair accessories that aren't too sharp or tight.
3-4. Revive your curls in between washes.
When you wake up in the morning (after sleeping on your fancy silk pillowcase), your curls might look a little flat. To perk them back up, spray your hair with water, leave-in conditioner, or a spray gel to add more moisture. Work it through your hair section by section to revive the shape of the curls.
To keep frizz at bay during the day, bring along a little gel or hair oil you can use to smooth down your hair.
Remember not to comb or brush out your curls if you want them to stay coiled.
Tips
If you have tangled curls, it's better to gently comb them out then to yank.
Try sleeping with plaits in your hair to give it a more curly/wavy look.
Following these steps right before you go to sleep will result in curlier hair in the morning. Just touch it up a bit as advised in the final step before stepping out the door. Rinsing your hair with cold water will set the curls, naturally.
Warnings
This won't work with pin-straight hair. You'll have to resort to other means.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:58:47",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Bringing Out the Curl in Straight or Wavy Hair\\n1-1. Use medium-bodied shampoo and conditioner.\\nChoose products that will help to define your curls without weighing down your hair. Look for curl-defining shampoo and conditioner that helps to bring out the curl while also hydrating your hair to keep it shiny and strong.<re\\n1-2. Finger-comb your hair to detangle it.\\nUsing your fingers instead of a brush or comb will help your natural curls stay together, rather than pulling them apart. When you want your hair to look as curly as possible, your fingers are the best tools you can use to handle your hair.\\n1-3. Flip your hair over and blot it dry in sections.\\nUse your fingers to gently pull apart strands of hair into separate sections, leaving your natural waves as intact as possible. Use a soft microfiber towel to blot each section of hair dry, starting at the roots and working down to the tips.\\nWhen you let your hair air dry without separating it into sections, the mass of wet hair tends to clump up as it dries instead of separating into well-defined curls.\\nDon't towel your hair dry roughly, since this can cause it to get frizzy. Just gently blot your hair dry to the tips.\\n1-4. Apply curl-defining gel or lotion.\\nInstead of running it through your hair from the roots to the tips, rub some product between your palms and cup your hair from the bottom, gently scrunching each section of hair from the bottom and using your fingers to apply it to the length of your hair. This will help your curls stay bouncy instead of weighing them down.\\nAs you apply the product, squeeze your hair gently to help lift up the curls.\\n1-5. Dry your hair with a diffuser.\\nAfter it has air-dried to the point where it's no longer dripping, flip your hair upside down. Use the diffuser attachment on your hair dryer to dry your hair in sections, pointing up from the bottom instead of drying from the top down. Lift the section you're drying onto the diffuser and gently push up with the diffuser to help define your curls. Continue section by section until your hair is mostly dry.\\nDrying your hair without the diffuser will blow out your curls, so make sure you use the attachment.\\nAt this point, handle your hair with your fingers as little as possible; let the diffuser do the work. Handling your hair too much will lead to frizzing.\\n1-6. Finish with light-hold hairspray.\\nThis will keep your curls from falling out too quickly, especially if it's humid outside. To keep your curls lasting as long as possible, try not to touch your hair throughout the day. Avoid wearing a hat or using hair accessories that might weigh your hair down.\\n2. Defining Curls in Curly or Kinky Hair\\n2-1. Wash your hair sparingly.\\nCurly or kinky hair tends to be a little drier and coarser than straight hair. Since it has a spiral shape, the natural oils produced by the scalp don't make it all the way to the tips, resulting in hair that isn't naturally as conditioned as straight hair. Curlier hair requires a different sort of treatment from straighter hair, and that starts with washing it less often.\\nIf you wash your hair every day, try cutting back to just two times a week and see if you notice that your curls are less dry.\\nEveryone's hair texture and oil level is a little different, so experiment and see what works for you. It might take a few weeks before you figure out how many times a week you need to wash your hair to keep it clean but also well conditioned.\\n2-2. Consider washing with conditioner instead of shampoo.\\nMany people with curly or kinky hair have switched from regular shampooing to the co-wash method. They have found that washing with conditioner instead of shampoo gets it just as clean without drying it out. Conditioner moisturizes coils and keeps them in good shape, rather than pulling them apart.\\nLook for a conditioner that does not contain silicones. These make your hair shiny at first, but eventually they build up and leave curls looking weighed down and dull.\\nIf you choose to use shampoo, get one that's sulfate-free or is labeled as moisturizing or nourishing. Sulfates are a cleansing agent that dry out hair, cause frizz, and they wreak havoc on a curly head.\\n2-3. Find a deep conditioner that gives you the texture you desire.\\nThere are so many deep conditioners on the market that it can be difficult to choose which one to buy. You can actually use your normal conditioner as a deep conditioner; just leave it in your hair for a few hours before rinsing it out. If you're up for experimenting, try adding different different deep conditioning treatments to find one that works with your curls. Here are a few common natural conditioners:\\nHoney. Mix 2 tablespoons of honey with 2 tablespoons of water. Work the mixture through your hair section by section. Let it sit for an hour, then rinse it out.\\nOIive oil or coconut oil. Work section by section to finger-comb the oil into your hair. Let it sit for an hour, then rinse it out. Your hair may still feel a bit oily, so if it bothers you, rinse it along with shampoo.\\nEgg whites. An egg white rinse will leave your hair looking shiny and moisturized. Separate two eggs and stir the whites together. Dilute with a little water. Work the mixture into your hair section by section. Let it sit for an hour, then rinse with the coldest water you can tolerate.\\n2-4. Use a finishing oil or butter.\\nThis seals your hair's cuticle so that your hair will stay hydrated even after your hair is dry. Working section by section, smooth your oil or finishing butter of choice into your curls, finger combing so that the curls stay intact. The following oils and butters are popular choices:\\nArgan oil\\nShea butter\\nCocoa butter\\nCreams that contain one of the above ingredients\\nCurl-defining serums\\n2-5. Avoid products that dry out your hair.\\nThe styling products you use have the potential to dry out your hair and create frizz. Before you use hairspray, gel, and other styling products, test them on just one small section of hair to see the results before you cover your entire head with it.\\n2-6. Do not brush your hair.\\nIf you have curly or kinky hair, particularly if you have tight coils, brushing your hair will separate it and leave you looking poofy and frizzy. This type of hair never really needs to be brushed. If you need to detangle your hair, finger-comb it section by section, or use a wide-tooth comb if you don't have tight coils.\\nIf your hair is more wavy than curly, you can use a boar-bristle brush to brush your hair, but only when it's dry. A boar-bristle brush is made with bristles that are similar to the texture of your hair, so it won't damage your curls. It's used to help move your scalp's natural oils down the length of your hair.\\n3. Styling Curls\\n3-1. Get your curls cut by a stylist who knows curls.\\nCurls are notoriously difficult to cut. When it's done the wrong way, you can end up with a style that just doesn't look right with your hair texture. Do some research to find a stylist who's experienced in cutting curly hair. Look online for reviews, or ask your curly-haired friends for a recommendation.\\nTell the stylist you want to avoid triangle hair, and see what he or she says. Anyone experienced in cutting curly hair knows what this means. Triangle hair is when the heavy curls grow in the shape of a triangular helmet. A good stylist will be able to cut the curls in such a way that they have better shape and movement.\\nIf a stylist wants to \\\"thin\\\" your hair with thinning shears, that's a red flag. Thinning shears can cause curly hair to frizz.\\n3-2. Air dry or diffuse your hair instead of blowing it out.\\nUsing a full blast of heat to dry curls will make your hair texture drier and coarser over time. It's better to let your curls air dry or diffuse on a low setting so your hair retains its bounce and stays hydrated. Finger-comb your curls section by section, then let them air dry so they stay bouncy and sleek.\\nIf you're concerned about getting more volume near your roots, use small clips to lift up your hair near your scalp. The hair will dry with a little more lift than it otherwise would.\\n3-3. Handle your hair gently.\\nScrunching, brushing, towel-drying, twisting, and otherwise roughly handling curly hair can crush and separate the curls, making it look frizzy and messy. To keep your curls coiled, avoid touching your hair except when you really need to. When you're applying produce or finger-combing, separate your hair into sections and work on each one gently. Here are a few other ways you can avoid getting frizzy:\\nSleep on a silk pillowcase designed to provide a soft surface for your hair. It's good for your skin, too.\\nAvoid styles that pull too much on your curls, and use hair accessories that aren't too sharp or tight.\\n3-4. Revive your curls in between washes.\\nWhen you wake up in the morning (after sleeping on your fancy silk pillowcase), your curls might look a little flat. To perk them back up, spray your hair with water, leave-in conditioner, or a spray gel to add more moisture. Work it through your hair section by section to revive the shape of the curls.\\nTo keep frizz at bay during the day, bring along a little gel or hair oil you can use to smooth down your hair.\\nRemember not to comb or brush out your curls if you want them to stay coiled.\\nTips\\nIf you have tangled curls, it's better to gently comb them out then to yank.\\nTry sleeping with plaits in your hair to give it a more curly/wavy look.\\nFollowing these steps right before you go to sleep will result in curlier hair in the morning. Just touch it up a bit as advised in the final step before stepping out the door. Rinsing your hair with cold water will set the curls, naturally.\\nWarnings\\nThis won't work with pin-straight hair. You'll have to resort to other means.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Curls add flair to any look, and many people have a natural curl that can be emphasized using certain hair care techniques. Whether you have a little wave you want to turn into full-fledged curls, or you'd like to make the ringlets you've got more defined and less frizzy, using the right cleansing method and styling process will bring out the best in your curly style.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Bringing Out the Curl in Straight or Wavy Hair\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Use medium-bodied shampoo and conditioner.\", \"描述\": \"Choose products that will help to define your curls without weighing down your hair. Look for curl-defining shampoo and conditioner that helps to bring out the curl while also hydrating your hair to keep it shiny and strong.<re\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Finger-comb your hair to detangle it.\", \"描述\": \"Using your fingers instead of a brush or comb will help your natural curls stay together, rather than pulling them apart. When you want your hair to look as curly as possible, your fingers are the best tools you can use to handle your hair.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Flip your hair over and blot it dry in sections.\", \"描述\": \"Use your fingers to gently pull apart strands of hair into separate sections, leaving your natural waves as intact as possible. Use a soft microfiber towel to blot each section of hair dry, starting at the roots and working down to the tips.\\nWhen you let your hair air dry without separating it into sections, the mass of wet hair tends to clump up as it dries instead of separating into well-defined curls.\\nDon't towel your hair dry roughly, since this can cause it to get frizzy. Just gently blot your hair dry to the tips.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Apply curl-defining gel or lotion.\", \"描述\": \"Instead of running it through your hair from the roots to the tips, rub some product between your palms and cup your hair from the bottom, gently scrunching each section of hair from the bottom and using your fingers to apply it to the length of your hair. This will help your curls stay bouncy instead of weighing them down.\\nAs you apply the product, squeeze your hair gently to help lift up the curls.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Dry your hair with a diffuser.\", \"描述\": \"After it has air-dried to the point where it's no longer dripping, flip your hair upside down. Use the diffuser attachment on your hair dryer to dry your hair in sections, pointing up from the bottom instead of drying from the top down. Lift the section you're drying onto the diffuser and gently push up with the diffuser to help define your curls. Continue section by section until your hair is mostly dry.\\nDrying your hair without the diffuser will blow out your curls, so make sure you use the attachment.\\nAt this point, handle your hair with your fingers as little as possible; let the diffuser do the work. Handling your hair too much will lead to frizzing.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Finish with light-hold hairspray.\", \"描述\": \"This will keep your curls from falling out too quickly, especially if it's humid outside. To keep your curls lasting as long as possible, try not to touch your hair throughout the day. Avoid wearing a hat or using hair accessories that might weigh your hair down.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Defining Curls in Curly or Kinky Hair\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Wash your hair sparingly.\", \"描述\": \"Curly or kinky hair tends to be a little drier and coarser than straight hair. Since it has a spiral shape, the natural oils produced by the scalp don't make it all the way to the tips, resulting in hair that isn't naturally as conditioned as straight hair. Curlier hair requires a different sort of treatment from straighter hair, and that starts with washing it less often.\\nIf you wash your hair every day, try cutting back to just two times a week and see if you notice that your curls are less dry.\\nEveryone's hair texture and oil level is a little different, so experiment and see what works for you. It might take a few weeks before you figure out how many times a week you need to wash your hair to keep it clean but also well conditioned.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Consider washing with conditioner instead of shampoo.\", \"描述\": \"Many people with curly or kinky hair have switched from regular shampooing to the co-wash method. They have found that washing with conditioner instead of shampoo gets it just as clean without drying it out. Conditioner moisturizes coils and keeps them in good shape, rather than pulling them apart.\\nLook for a conditioner that does not contain silicones. These make your hair shiny at first, but eventually they build up and leave curls looking weighed down and dull.\\nIf you choose to use shampoo, get one that's sulfate-free or is labeled as moisturizing or nourishing. Sulfates are a cleansing agent that dry out hair, cause frizz, and they wreak havoc on a curly head.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Find a deep conditioner that gives you the texture you desire.\", \"描述\": \"There are so many deep conditioners on the market that it can be difficult to choose which one to buy. You can actually use your normal conditioner as a deep conditioner; just leave it in your hair for a few hours before rinsing it out. If you're up for experimenting, try adding different different deep conditioning treatments to find one that works with your curls. Here are a few common natural conditioners:\\nHoney. Mix 2 tablespoons of honey with 2 tablespoons of water. Work the mixture through your hair section by section. Let it sit for an hour, then rinse it out.\\nOIive oil or coconut oil. Work section by section to finger-comb the oil into your hair. Let it sit for an hour, then rinse it out. Your hair may still feel a bit oily, so if it bothers you, rinse it along with shampoo.\\nEgg whites. An egg white rinse will leave your hair looking shiny and moisturized. Separate two eggs and stir the whites together. Dilute with a little water. Work the mixture into your hair section by section. Let it sit for an hour, then rinse with the coldest water you can tolerate.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Use a finishing oil or butter.\", \"描述\": \"This seals your hair's cuticle so that your hair will stay hydrated even after your hair is dry. Working section by section, smooth your oil or finishing butter of choice into your curls, finger combing so that the curls stay intact. The following oils and butters are popular choices:\\nArgan oil\\nShea butter\\nCocoa butter\\nCreams that contain one of the above ingredients\\nCurl-defining serums\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Avoid products that dry out your hair.\", \"描述\": \"The styling products you use have the potential to dry out your hair and create frizz. Before you use hairspray, gel, and other styling products, test them on just one small section of hair to see the results before you cover your entire head with it.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Do not brush your hair.\", \"描述\": \"If you have curly or kinky hair, particularly if you have tight coils, brushing your hair will separate it and leave you looking poofy and frizzy. This type of hair never really needs to be brushed. If you need to detangle your hair, finger-comb it section by section, or use a wide-tooth comb if you don't have tight coils.\\nIf your hair is more wavy than curly, you can use a boar-bristle brush to brush your hair, but only when it's dry. A boar-bristle brush is made with bristles that are similar to the texture of your hair, so it won't damage your curls. It's used to help move your scalp's natural oils down the length of your hair.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Styling Curls\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Get your curls cut by a stylist who knows curls.\", \"描述\": \"Curls are notoriously difficult to cut. When it's done the wrong way, you can end up with a style that just doesn't look right with your hair texture. Do some research to find a stylist who's experienced in cutting curly hair. Look online for reviews, or ask your curly-haired friends for a recommendation.\\nTell the stylist you want to avoid triangle hair, and see what he or she says. Anyone experienced in cutting curly hair knows what this means. Triangle hair is when the heavy curls grow in the shape of a triangular helmet. A good stylist will be able to cut the curls in such a way that they have better shape and movement.\\nIf a stylist wants to \\\"thin\\\" your hair with thinning shears, that's a red flag. Thinning shears can cause curly hair to frizz.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Air dry or diffuse your hair instead of blowing it out.\", \"描述\": \"Using a full blast of heat to dry curls will make your hair texture drier and coarser over time. It's better to let your curls air dry or diffuse on a low setting so your hair retains its bounce and stays hydrated. Finger-comb your curls section by section, then let them air dry so they stay bouncy and sleek.\\nIf you're concerned about getting more volume near your roots, use small clips to lift up your hair near your scalp. The hair will dry with a little more lift than it otherwise would.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Handle your hair gently.\", \"描述\": \"Scrunching, brushing, towel-drying, twisting, and otherwise roughly handling curly hair can crush and separate the curls, making it look frizzy and messy. To keep your curls coiled, avoid touching your hair except when you really need to. When you're applying produce or finger-combing, separate your hair into sections and work on each one gently. Here are a few other ways you can avoid getting frizzy:\\nSleep on a silk pillowcase designed to provide a soft surface for your hair. It's good for your skin, too.\\nAvoid styles that pull too much on your curls, and use hair accessories that aren't too sharp or tight.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Revive your curls in between washes.\", \"描述\": \"When you wake up in the morning (after sleeping on your fancy silk pillowcase), your curls might look a little flat. To perk them back up, spray your hair with water, leave-in conditioner, or a spray gel to add more moisture. Work it through your hair section by section to revive the shape of the curls.\\nTo keep frizz at bay during the day, bring along a little gel or hair oil you can use to smooth down your hair.\\nRemember not to comb or brush out your curls if you want them to stay coiled.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"If you have tangled curls, it's better to gently comb them out then to yank.\\n\", \"Try sleeping with plaits in your hair to give it a more curly/wavy look.\\n\", \"Following these steps right before you go to sleep will result in curlier hair in the morning. Just touch it up a bit as advised in the final step before stepping out the door. Rinsing your hair with cold water will set the curls, naturally.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"This won't work with pin-straight hair. You'll have to resort to other means.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,008 |
How to Bring Passion Back Into a Relationship
|
1. Try new activities together.
Novel experiences mimic the old days when everything felt new.
Plan a date where you and your partner do something neither of you has ever done before. It could be as simple as trying a new restaurant or as adventurous as bungee jumping. As long as you feel a spark of excitement together, renewed passion will follow. Try things like:
Traveling to a new place for a weekend getaway
Taking a cooking or art class together
Taking up a new hobby together like hiking or crossfit
When we're learning something new, it naturally evokes nervous and excited feelings, which is likely how you felt about your partner when you first met them. By doing a new shared activity together, you can reignite those old feelings you had when you first met.
2. Surprise your partner.
Small surprises keep spontaneity and excitement alive.
Grand gestures like surprise vacations or lavish gifts aren’t necessary. Small, thoughtful things like sending your partner a card in the mail or surprising them at work for lunch will keep things fresh and fun for both of you.Experiment with little things like:
Bringing your partner coffee or breakfast in bed
Leaving short love notes in their work bag or stuck to the bathroom mirror
Revealing a secret stash of their favorite snacks after a hard day at work
Planning a surprise date
Treating them to dinner at a new restaurant
3. Take a mini-vacation together.
It’s important to prioritize quality alone time together to reconnect.
Choose a location that interests both of you and stay for at least one night and 2 days. Remove as many distractions as you can—cell phones, work emails, your mental to-do list at home—so you can fully enjoy each other’s company.
A trip itinerary isn’t necessary. Strive for as much relaxing, unpressured time as possible so you can truly do whatever you want together in the moment.
4. Stay curious about your partner.
The spark stays alive when you're genuinely interested in your partner.
Human beings are complex and ever-changing. Ask them questions and explore the depth of their personality and experiences—you might know them very well, but you can’t possibly know what they’re thinking or feeling 100% of the time.
Learning about someone is an ongoing process, not a to-do item you can check off. The spark will return as you start getting to know them again with fresh ears.
Curiosity builds when you get time apart to have separate experiences. Bonding happens when you make time to get together and share those experiences.
5. Communicate, communicate, communicate.
It’s healthy to tell your partner what you want and need.
It might feel embarrassing or vulnerable, but remember that comforting you is a pleasure to your partner (not a burden). By communicating your needs, you’re avoiding confusion and giving your partner the tools they need to make you feel loved, excited, and passionate again.
Be very open—communicate your emotional, social, or sexual wants. It’s the first step of moving forward and reinvigorating your relationship. Being vulnerable by taking risks and opening up emotionally about your fears, joys, hopes, and dreams is extremely important.
Be a good listener for your partner. Make them feel valued and understood so you can address their needs and strengthen your connection.
Watch your partner’s body language during these talks. Their eye contact, tone, posture, gestures, or hand motions communicate even more about their feelings than their words do. For example, if they say “I’m not mad” with a clenched jaw, chances are they actually are mad.
6. Re-create your first date.
Reliving the moment you met will make you feel that initial spark all over.
Travel back in time and go on your first date again. Capture as many details as you can—go to the same bar if it’s still open, wear the same outfit, listen to the same music. If you arrived separately or had friends with you when you met, include them too!
You’ll get to see your partner the way you did in the past—mysterious, charming, new, and exciting.
A good reenactment takes time and planning. That’s OK! Working together to set up your date will open you both up to getting in the right mindset when the time comes.
If a full recreation is too complex, spend some quality time reminiscing about old times. Tell stories about how you met, what attracted you to each other, or when you knew you were in love.
7. Tell your partner what you love about them.
This will remind you why you love them and make them feel loved, too.
Over the course of a day, both of you can make an “I love you” list of everything you love about each other. Write down anything you can think of, no matter how insignificant or silly. At the end of the day, sit close and share your lists with each other. Include things like:
“I love how you sing to yourself while you cook.”
“I love when you make a snow angel every time you shovel the driveway.”
“I love the way you misspell ‘achieve’ every time it comes up.”
8. Express your appreciation for your partner.
Your partner needs to know you’re glad to be with them.
Being loved and feeling loved are two different things, and your passion will rekindle when you both feel needed and appreciated every day. Tell each other “I’m glad you’re here” at least 3 times daily and watch as the excitement and jitters return to your relationship.
Make sure your body language matches your words. Eye contact plus a kiss, hug, or stroke of the face or lower back shows your partner you mean what you say.
9. Dream big.
Fantasize about all you could do together to keep the passion alive.
Each of you can make an “It would be amazing if…” list one day. Jot down anything you’d love to do together or that you’d love for your partner to do for you. At the end of the day, share your lists with each other and pick a few dream scenarios to do for real! Your list can include anything from the mundane to the extravagant, like:
“It would be amazing if you could stop answering work calls at home.”
“It would be amazing if we finally went on that Italian vacation we’ve been dreaming about.”
“It would be amazing if you’d let me spoil you now and then.”
10. Do activities that get your heart pumping.
When your heart races around your partner, your brain attributes that arousal to them.
Do something active together, like exercising or dancing—when you look at your partner and feel that adrenaline, you’ll be transported back to a time when just a glance at them made your heart flutter. Try arousing activities like:
Going to an amusement park
Watching a scary movie or psychological thriller
Challenging each other to a race or other athletic competition
11. Play games together.
Having fun and laughing gets you excited to spend time together.
Relationships are supposed to be entertaining! Don’t feel afraid or “too mature” to play silly games and make fools out of yourselves—things like snowball fights, board games, and playful dares can shake things up and bring you closer to each other (and often lead to intimacy afterwards, too). The possibilities are endless:
Challenge each other in video games
Play games of wit or humor like Cards Against Humanity or Jackbox Games
Add a sexy twist to a classic game, like strip poker
12. Touch more often.
Affectionate touching bonds you physically and emotionally.
It doesn’t have to be sexual in nature—something simple like hand holding or hugging produces comfort and arousal for both of you at the same time. Any reminder that you’re physically connected will bring you closer and instigate a fresh wave of passion. Try things like:
Cuddling on the couch during a rainy afternoon
Holding your partner’s waist while you’re standing around at a party
Placing your hand on your partner’s thigh while you’re sitting next to each other
13. Take the pressure off of sex.
Sometimes, sex causes more stress than pleasure.
Communicate your anxieties or needs and then take a break. There are other ways to be physically intimate without having intercourse like cuddling, showering together, or just enjoying foreplay. When the pressure’s gone, there’s more room to explore, enjoy contact, and let yourself feel arousal.
Make a goal to reconnect physically regardless of whether sex is on the table or not.
If spontaneity is not working, try scheduling sex dates for times when you’re both relaxed and receptive to intimacy.
Keep your expectations low. When full intercourse isn’t the goal, performance anxiety is relieved and you have space to explore each other’s bodies and luxuriate in new sensations.
14. Spice things up in the bedroom.
Grow closer to your partner by exploring new sensations and pleasures.
For starters, try switching up who initiates sex—if it’s the same partner each time, flipping the tables once in a while can be a fun and spontaneous idea. Communicate your sexual fantasies and try them out. Role playing, using toys, and watching porn or masturbating together are erotic new ways to spice things up.
Try a “no sex” day to let the tension build.
Dress in a way that makes you feel attractive. Keeping your work clothes on all evening can inhibit your arousal or energy for intimacy.
15. Focus on yourself.
Personal growth is linked to high levels of intimacy in relationships.
When you experience growth or expansion, you feel invigorated and optimistic and bring that energy home to your relationship. Explore hobbies and activities that make you feel interesting and your partner will find you more interesting, too.
Try activities that help you gain more personal insight and self-awareness, like meditation, journaling, or just changing up your daily routine.
Make time every week to do something just for yourself. Even if you can only spare an hour or less, it’ll still work wonders for your relationship.
16. Be prepared for ups and downs.
Intimacy and passion are ongoing projects.
People and circumstances change over time and present new challenges. Be open to change—it’ll happen whether you want it to or not—and stay flexible so you and your partner can grow together during good times and bad times.
Outside stressors can affect your relationship. During rough times, try not to take your problems out on your partner or to force a solution. Remain a team and problem solve together.
Tips
If your relationship problems seem too overwhelming to solve on your own, consider seeking individual or couples counseling for support and guidance as you continue to work towards bringing the spark back into your relationship. Close friends, spiritual leaders, or trusted family members can also be a valuable part of your support system.[27]
X
Trustworthy Source
HelpGuide
Nonprofit organization dedicated to providing free, evidence-based mental health and wellness resources.
Go to source
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:58:47",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Try new activities together.\\nNovel experiences mimic the old days when everything felt new.\\nPlan a date where you and your partner do something neither of you has ever done before. It could be as simple as trying a new restaurant or as adventurous as bungee jumping. As long as you feel a spark of excitement together, renewed passion will follow. Try things like:\\nTraveling to a new place for a weekend getaway\\nTaking a cooking or art class together\\nTaking up a new hobby together like hiking or crossfit\\nWhen we're learning something new, it naturally evokes nervous and excited feelings, which is likely how you felt about your partner when you first met them. By doing a new shared activity together, you can reignite those old feelings you had when you first met.\\n2. Surprise your partner.\\nSmall surprises keep spontaneity and excitement alive.\\nGrand gestures like surprise vacations or lavish gifts aren’t necessary. Small, thoughtful things like sending your partner a card in the mail or surprising them at work for lunch will keep things fresh and fun for both of you.Experiment with little things like:\\nBringing your partner coffee or breakfast in bed\\nLeaving short love notes in their work bag or stuck to the bathroom mirror\\nRevealing a secret stash of their favorite snacks after a hard day at work\\nPlanning a surprise date\\nTreating them to dinner at a new restaurant\\n3. Take a mini-vacation together.\\nIt’s important to prioritize quality alone time together to reconnect.\\nChoose a location that interests both of you and stay for at least one night and 2 days. Remove as many distractions as you can—cell phones, work emails, your mental to-do list at home—so you can fully enjoy each other’s company.\\nA trip itinerary isn’t necessary. Strive for as much relaxing, unpressured time as possible so you can truly do whatever you want together in the moment.\\n4. Stay curious about your partner.\\nThe spark stays alive when you're genuinely interested in your partner.\\nHuman beings are complex and ever-changing. Ask them questions and explore the depth of their personality and experiences—you might know them very well, but you can’t possibly know what they’re thinking or feeling 100% of the time.\\nLearning about someone is an ongoing process, not a to-do item you can check off. The spark will return as you start getting to know them again with fresh ears.\\nCuriosity builds when you get time apart to have separate experiences. Bonding happens when you make time to get together and share those experiences.\\n5. Communicate, communicate, communicate.\\nIt’s healthy to tell your partner what you want and need.\\nIt might feel embarrassing or vulnerable, but remember that comforting you is a pleasure to your partner (not a burden). By communicating your needs, you’re avoiding confusion and giving your partner the tools they need to make you feel loved, excited, and passionate again.\\nBe very open—communicate your emotional, social, or sexual wants. It’s the first step of moving forward and reinvigorating your relationship. Being vulnerable by taking risks and opening up emotionally about your fears, joys, hopes, and dreams is extremely important.\\nBe a good listener for your partner. Make them feel valued and understood so you can address their needs and strengthen your connection.\\nWatch your partner’s body language during these talks. Their eye contact, tone, posture, gestures, or hand motions communicate even more about their feelings than their words do. For example, if they say “I’m not mad” with a clenched jaw, chances are they actually are mad.\\n6. Re-create your first date.\\nReliving the moment you met will make you feel that initial spark all over.\\nTravel back in time and go on your first date again. Capture as many details as you can—go to the same bar if it’s still open, wear the same outfit, listen to the same music. If you arrived separately or had friends with you when you met, include them too!\\nYou’ll get to see your partner the way you did in the past—mysterious, charming, new, and exciting.\\nA good reenactment takes time and planning. That’s OK! Working together to set up your date will open you both up to getting in the right mindset when the time comes.\\nIf a full recreation is too complex, spend some quality time reminiscing about old times. Tell stories about how you met, what attracted you to each other, or when you knew you were in love.\\n7. Tell your partner what you love about them.\\nThis will remind you why you love them and make them feel loved, too.\\nOver the course of a day, both of you can make an “I love you” list of everything you love about each other. Write down anything you can think of, no matter how insignificant or silly. At the end of the day, sit close and share your lists with each other. Include things like:\\n“I love how you sing to yourself while you cook.”\\n“I love when you make a snow angel every time you shovel the driveway.”\\n“I love the way you misspell ‘achieve’ every time it comes up.”\\n8. Express your appreciation for your partner.\\nYour partner needs to know you’re glad to be with them.\\nBeing loved and feeling loved are two different things, and your passion will rekindle when you both feel needed and appreciated every day. Tell each other “I’m glad you’re here” at least 3 times daily and watch as the excitement and jitters return to your relationship.\\nMake sure your body language matches your words. Eye contact plus a kiss, hug, or stroke of the face or lower back shows your partner you mean what you say.\\n9. Dream big.\\nFantasize about all you could do together to keep the passion alive.\\nEach of you can make an “It would be amazing if…” list one day. Jot down anything you’d love to do together or that you’d love for your partner to do for you. At the end of the day, share your lists with each other and pick a few dream scenarios to do for real! Your list can include anything from the mundane to the extravagant, like:\\n“It would be amazing if you could stop answering work calls at home.”\\n“It would be amazing if we finally went on that Italian vacation we’ve been dreaming about.”\\n“It would be amazing if you’d let me spoil you now and then.”\\n10. Do activities that get your heart pumping.\\nWhen your heart races around your partner, your brain attributes that arousal to them.\\nDo something active together, like exercising or dancing—when you look at your partner and feel that adrenaline, you’ll be transported back to a time when just a glance at them made your heart flutter. Try arousing activities like:\\nGoing to an amusement park\\nWatching a scary movie or psychological thriller\\nChallenging each other to a race or other athletic competition\\n11. Play games together.\\nHaving fun and laughing gets you excited to spend time together.\\nRelationships are supposed to be entertaining! Don’t feel afraid or “too mature” to play silly games and make fools out of yourselves—things like snowball fights, board games, and playful dares can shake things up and bring you closer to each other (and often lead to intimacy afterwards, too). The possibilities are endless:\\nChallenge each other in video games\\nPlay games of wit or humor like Cards Against Humanity or Jackbox Games\\nAdd a sexy twist to a classic game, like strip poker\\n12. Touch more often.\\nAffectionate touching bonds you physically and emotionally.\\nIt doesn’t have to be sexual in nature—something simple like hand holding or hugging produces comfort and arousal for both of you at the same time. Any reminder that you’re physically connected will bring you closer and instigate a fresh wave of passion. Try things like:\\nCuddling on the couch during a rainy afternoon\\nHolding your partner’s waist while you’re standing around at a party\\nPlacing your hand on your partner’s thigh while you’re sitting next to each other\\n13. Take the pressure off of sex.\\nSometimes, sex causes more stress than pleasure.\\nCommunicate your anxieties or needs and then take a break. There are other ways to be physically intimate without having intercourse like cuddling, showering together, or just enjoying foreplay. When the pressure’s gone, there’s more room to explore, enjoy contact, and let yourself feel arousal.\\nMake a goal to reconnect physically regardless of whether sex is on the table or not.\\nIf spontaneity is not working, try scheduling sex dates for times when you’re both relaxed and receptive to intimacy.\\nKeep your expectations low. When full intercourse isn’t the goal, performance anxiety is relieved and you have space to explore each other’s bodies and luxuriate in new sensations.\\n14. Spice things up in the bedroom.\\nGrow closer to your partner by exploring new sensations and pleasures.\\nFor starters, try switching up who initiates sex—if it’s the same partner each time, flipping the tables once in a while can be a fun and spontaneous idea. Communicate your sexual fantasies and try them out. Role playing, using toys, and watching porn or masturbating together are erotic new ways to spice things up.\\nTry a “no sex” day to let the tension build.\\nDress in a way that makes you feel attractive. Keeping your work clothes on all evening can inhibit your arousal or energy for intimacy.\\n15. Focus on yourself.\\nPersonal growth is linked to high levels of intimacy in relationships.\\nWhen you experience growth or expansion, you feel invigorated and optimistic and bring that energy home to your relationship. Explore hobbies and activities that make you feel interesting and your partner will find you more interesting, too.\\nTry activities that help you gain more personal insight and self-awareness, like meditation, journaling, or just changing up your daily routine.\\nMake time every week to do something just for yourself. Even if you can only spare an hour or less, it’ll still work wonders for your relationship.\\n16. Be prepared for ups and downs.\\nIntimacy and passion are ongoing projects.\\nPeople and circumstances change over time and present new challenges. Be open to change—it’ll happen whether you want it to or not—and stay flexible so you and your partner can grow together during good times and bad times.\\nOutside stressors can affect your relationship. During rough times, try not to take your problems out on your partner or to force a solution. Remain a team and problem solve together.\\nTips\\nIf your relationship problems seem too overwhelming to solve on your own, consider seeking individual or couples counseling for support and guidance as you continue to work towards bringing the spark back into your relationship. Close friends, spiritual leaders, or trusted family members can also be a valuable part of your support system.[27]\\nX\\nTrustworthy Source\\nHelpGuide\\nNonprofit organization dedicated to providing free, evidence-based mental health and wellness resources.\\nGo to source\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"How many times have you heard a couple lament that the passion has just faded from their relationship? If you’re feeling the same way, you’re probably wondering whether there’s any way to get that spark back or if that’s just how relationships go. Fortunately, having a passionate relationship is a skill you and your partner can develop together. We’ve created a thorough list of psychology-backed ways to reinvigorate your partnership emotionally, romantically, and sexually. If you’re ready to bring passion back into your relationship, read on!\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Try new activities together.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Novel experiences mimic the old days when everything felt new.\", \"描述\": \"Plan a date where you and your partner do something neither of you has ever done before. It could be as simple as trying a new restaurant or as adventurous as bungee jumping. As long as you feel a spark of excitement together, renewed passion will follow. Try things like:\\nTraveling to a new place for a weekend getaway\\nTaking a cooking or art class together\\nTaking up a new hobby together like hiking or crossfit\\nWhen we're learning something new, it naturally evokes nervous and excited feelings, which is likely how you felt about your partner when you first met them. By doing a new shared activity together, you can reignite those old feelings you had when you first met.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Surprise your partner.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Small surprises keep spontaneity and excitement alive.\", \"描述\": \"Grand gestures like surprise vacations or lavish gifts aren’t necessary. Small, thoughtful things like sending your partner a card in the mail or surprising them at work for lunch will keep things fresh and fun for both of you.Experiment with little things like:\\nBringing your partner coffee or breakfast in bed\\nLeaving short love notes in their work bag or stuck to the bathroom mirror\\nRevealing a secret stash of their favorite snacks after a hard day at work\\nPlanning a surprise date\\nTreating them to dinner at a new restaurant\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Take a mini-vacation together.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"It’s important to prioritize quality alone time together to reconnect.\", \"描述\": \"Choose a location that interests both of you and stay for at least one night and 2 days. Remove as many distractions as you can—cell phones, work emails, your mental to-do list at home—so you can fully enjoy each other’s company.\\nA trip itinerary isn’t necessary. Strive for as much relaxing, unpressured time as possible so you can truly do whatever you want together in the moment.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Stay curious about your partner.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"The spark stays alive when you're genuinely interested in your partner.\", \"描述\": \"Human beings are complex and ever-changing. Ask them questions and explore the depth of their personality and experiences—you might know them very well, but you can’t possibly know what they’re thinking or feeling 100% of the time.\\nLearning about someone is an ongoing process, not a to-do item you can check off. The spark will return as you start getting to know them again with fresh ears.\\nCuriosity builds when you get time apart to have separate experiences. Bonding happens when you make time to get together and share those experiences.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Communicate, communicate, communicate.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"It’s healthy to tell your partner what you want and need.\", \"描述\": \"It might feel embarrassing or vulnerable, but remember that comforting you is a pleasure to your partner (not a burden). By communicating your needs, you’re avoiding confusion and giving your partner the tools they need to make you feel loved, excited, and passionate again.\\nBe very open—communicate your emotional, social, or sexual wants. It’s the first step of moving forward and reinvigorating your relationship. Being vulnerable by taking risks and opening up emotionally about your fears, joys, hopes, and dreams is extremely important.\\nBe a good listener for your partner. Make them feel valued and understood so you can address their needs and strengthen your connection.\\nWatch your partner’s body language during these talks. Their eye contact, tone, posture, gestures, or hand motions communicate even more about their feelings than their words do. For example, if they say “I’m not mad” with a clenched jaw, chances are they actually are mad.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Re-create your first date.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Reliving the moment you met will make you feel that initial spark all over.\", \"描述\": \"Travel back in time and go on your first date again. Capture as many details as you can—go to the same bar if it’s still open, wear the same outfit, listen to the same music. If you arrived separately or had friends with you when you met, include them too!\\nYou’ll get to see your partner the way you did in the past—mysterious, charming, new, and exciting.\\nA good reenactment takes time and planning. That’s OK! Working together to set up your date will open you both up to getting in the right mindset when the time comes.\\nIf a full recreation is too complex, spend some quality time reminiscing about old times. Tell stories about how you met, what attracted you to each other, or when you knew you were in love.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Tell your partner what you love about them.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"This will remind you why you love them and make them feel loved, too.\", \"描述\": \"Over the course of a day, both of you can make an “I love you” list of everything you love about each other. Write down anything you can think of, no matter how insignificant or silly. At the end of the day, sit close and share your lists with each other. Include things like:\\n“I love how you sing to yourself while you cook.”\\n“I love when you make a snow angel every time you shovel the driveway.”\\n“I love the way you misspell ‘achieve’ every time it comes up.”\"}]}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Express your appreciation for your partner.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Your partner needs to know you’re glad to be with them.\", \"描述\": \"Being loved and feeling loved are two different things, and your passion will rekindle when you both feel needed and appreciated every day. Tell each other “I’m glad you’re here” at least 3 times daily and watch as the excitement and jitters return to your relationship.\\nMake sure your body language matches your words. Eye contact plus a kiss, hug, or stroke of the face or lower back shows your partner you mean what you say.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Dream big.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Fantasize about all you could do together to keep the passion alive.\", \"描述\": \"Each of you can make an “It would be amazing if…” list one day. Jot down anything you’d love to do together or that you’d love for your partner to do for you. At the end of the day, share your lists with each other and pick a few dream scenarios to do for real! Your list can include anything from the mundane to the extravagant, like:\\n“It would be amazing if you could stop answering work calls at home.”\\n“It would be amazing if we finally went on that Italian vacation we’ve been dreaming about.”\\n“It would be amazing if you’d let me spoil you now and then.”\"}]}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Do activities that get your heart pumping.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"When your heart races around your partner, your brain attributes that arousal to them.\", \"描述\": \"Do something active together, like exercising or dancing—when you look at your partner and feel that adrenaline, you’ll be transported back to a time when just a glance at them made your heart flutter. Try arousing activities like:\\nGoing to an amusement park\\nWatching a scary movie or psychological thriller\\nChallenging each other to a race or other athletic competition\"}]}, {\"编号\": 11, \"标题\": \"Play games together.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Having fun and laughing gets you excited to spend time together.\", \"描述\": \"Relationships are supposed to be entertaining! Don’t feel afraid or “too mature” to play silly games and make fools out of yourselves—things like snowball fights, board games, and playful dares can shake things up and bring you closer to each other (and often lead to intimacy afterwards, too). The possibilities are endless:\\nChallenge each other in video games\\nPlay games of wit or humor like Cards Against Humanity or Jackbox Games\\nAdd a sexy twist to a classic game, like strip poker\"}]}, {\"编号\": 12, \"标题\": \"Touch more often.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Affectionate touching bonds you physically and emotionally.\", \"描述\": \"It doesn’t have to be sexual in nature—something simple like hand holding or hugging produces comfort and arousal for both of you at the same time. Any reminder that you’re physically connected will bring you closer and instigate a fresh wave of passion. Try things like:\\nCuddling on the couch during a rainy afternoon\\nHolding your partner’s waist while you’re standing around at a party\\nPlacing your hand on your partner’s thigh while you’re sitting next to each other\"}]}, {\"编号\": 13, \"标题\": \"Take the pressure off of sex.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Sometimes, sex causes more stress than pleasure.\", \"描述\": \"Communicate your anxieties or needs and then take a break. There are other ways to be physically intimate without having intercourse like cuddling, showering together, or just enjoying foreplay. When the pressure’s gone, there’s more room to explore, enjoy contact, and let yourself feel arousal.\\nMake a goal to reconnect physically regardless of whether sex is on the table or not.\\nIf spontaneity is not working, try scheduling sex dates for times when you’re both relaxed and receptive to intimacy.\\nKeep your expectations low. When full intercourse isn’t the goal, performance anxiety is relieved and you have space to explore each other’s bodies and luxuriate in new sensations.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 14, \"标题\": \"Spice things up in the bedroom.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Grow closer to your partner by exploring new sensations and pleasures.\", \"描述\": \"For starters, try switching up who initiates sex—if it’s the same partner each time, flipping the tables once in a while can be a fun and spontaneous idea. Communicate your sexual fantasies and try them out. Role playing, using toys, and watching porn or masturbating together are erotic new ways to spice things up.\\nTry a “no sex” day to let the tension build.\\nDress in a way that makes you feel attractive. Keeping your work clothes on all evening can inhibit your arousal or energy for intimacy.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 15, \"标题\": \"Focus on yourself.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Personal growth is linked to high levels of intimacy in relationships.\", \"描述\": \"When you experience growth or expansion, you feel invigorated and optimistic and bring that energy home to your relationship. Explore hobbies and activities that make you feel interesting and your partner will find you more interesting, too.\\nTry activities that help you gain more personal insight and self-awareness, like meditation, journaling, or just changing up your daily routine.\\nMake time every week to do something just for yourself. Even if you can only spare an hour or less, it’ll still work wonders for your relationship.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 16, \"标题\": \"Be prepared for ups and downs.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Intimacy and passion are ongoing projects.\", \"描述\": \"People and circumstances change over time and present new challenges. Be open to change—it’ll happen whether you want it to or not—and stay flexible so you and your partner can grow together during good times and bad times.\\nOutside stressors can affect your relationship. During rough times, try not to take your problems out on your partner or to force a solution. Remain a team and problem solve together.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"If your relationship problems seem too overwhelming to solve on your own, consider seeking individual or couples counseling for support and guidance as you continue to work towards bringing the spark back into your relationship. Close friends, spiritual leaders, or trusted family members can also be a valuable part of your support system.[27]\\nX\\nTrustworthy Source\\nHelpGuide\\nNonprofit organization dedicated to providing free, evidence-based mental health and wellness resources.\\nGo to source\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,009 |
How to Bring Positive Energy Into Your Life
|
1. Thinking Positively
1-1. Expect that good things are going to happen to you.
Wake up each morning anticipating that something great is on the horizon. Keep your mind in a positive, hopeful place as you go throughout the day, and notice if the events in your life seem especially upbeat. In many cases, a positive attitude can naturally welcome positive energy into your life, turning a mediocre day into a great one!
Keep your expectations realistic. A positive attitude probably won’t make you a lottery winner, but it will make you feel happier throughout the day!
For instance, tell yourself aloud that you’re going to have a good day as soon as you wake up in the morning.
1-2. Toss away your negative thoughts and feelings.
Take a moment to focus on what’s dragging you down. When you think about negative topics, you end up filling your mind with negative energy. Instead, make a resolution to accept what you cannot change, and try to move forward with more positive thoughts.
For example, if you’re worried that you did poorly on a test, make a specific effort to let that worry go. Tell yourself, “I can’t change what already happened today, so I’m going to make my day better by hanging out with a friend later.”
1-3. Don’t needlessly dwell on your problems and illnesses.
While sickness and other long-term problems can be a pain to deal with, try not to invest any negative energy into these prospects. Instead of thinking about the uncontrollable parts of your life, focus on the aspects that you can control, instead.
For instance, if you feel like you’re coming down with a cold, try not to focus on your symptoms. Instead, view it as a free excuse to relax, enjoy a hot beverage, and watch TV!
1-4. Try to laugh and smile whenever possible.
Get in the habit of smiling on a daily basis. Invite positive energy into your life by actively seeking out the wholesome and funny aspects of each day. Make an effort to fill your life with positive people who always bring a smile to your face.
For example, try to get in the habit of sincerely laughing at your friends’ upbeat stories.
1-5. Say thank you for all of the good aspects of your existence.
Take a moment to bring some positive energy into your life by thinking about everything that you’re thankful for. When you’re alone, acknowledge everything in your life that makes you happy, like your friends and family. You can also write out a list of everything that makes you happy, if you want to have a physical reminder on hand.
For instance, try and think of every positive aspect of your life, even if it’s mundane. Taking a moment to spend time with your pet, or spending some time doing a hobby can all be considered positive and good moments in your life.
1-6. Forgive
Think about all of the people who have hurt you, whether it was recently or a long time ago. Do you still harbor negative feelings toward these individuals? If so, you could be welcoming negative energy into your life without realizing it. Take a moment to mentally forgive the people who have hurt you, and expel their influence from your life.
Forgiveness doesn’t mean you have to trust or like the person (or people) in question. It means that you’re absolving yourself of the issue and the emotional turmoil that comes with it.
2. Putting Yourself First
2-1. Commit to loving yourself.
Take a moment to think about all of your positive qualities, and write them down in a list. Jot down anything that you’re good at, whether it’s a sport, a hobby, or being a good friend. While it may be difficult to think of good things about yourself, remember that you’ll be inviting positive energy into your life once you do.
For example, try telling yourself: “I may not have a lot of hobbies, but I’m really good at getting things done quickly and efficiently.”
Try saying positive things about yourself out loud. Even if you struggle to believe what you say, hearing these affirmations can help you build up your confidence.
2-2. Don’t compromise your own happiness for other people.
While it’s important to think of others, try not to forget about yourself in the process. Before agreeing to do something with a friend or family member, decide if it’s something that would make you happy or not. By avoiding stressful activities and tasks, you can invite a lot more positive, productive energy into your life.
For instance, if you don’t like traveling but your friends invite you on a weekend trip in the city, put your foot down and explain why you would rather not go. Say something like: “I really appreciate you thinking of me, but I feel really drained and stressed out whenever I travel. I hope you have a great time!”
2-3. Take active steps to achieve your goals.
If you want to accomplish something big, think of actionable ways you can reach these goals. Don’t expect to fulfill your dreams in a week or a month—instead, divide your goals into small, achievable baby steps. As you accomplish each step, take a moment to celebrate the little victories!
For example: If you want to become fluent in another language, you’ll need to develop a study plan first. Start by learning basic grammar and vocabulary, then work your way up to speaking conversationally.
Lots of practice is the best way to improve your language skills.
2-4. Aim to be mindful and present every day.
Keep yourself rooted in the events and activities of your daily schedule. Instead of doing chores and work-related tasks automatically, take a moment to consider how and why you’re doing these things. Prioritize a feeling of awareness in everything that you do to welcome more productive, positive energy into your life.
Mindfulness isn’t a task that you can check off a list. It’s a lifestyle that you incorporate throughout your day, starting from when you wake up.
2-5. Set clear boundaries
Perform frequent maintenance on your friendships by determining how far you want the relationship to go. Whenever you to speak with a friend or acquaintance, pay attention to your own thoughts and feelings. If anything a person says makes you uncomfortable, take a moment to address your emotions.
Do this on a regular basis, so your negative feelings don’t snowball into something worse.
For example, if you dislike it when a friend calls you “sweetie,” be sure to speak up.
3. Adjusting Your Day-to-Day Life
3-1. Maintain a healthy diet and exercise schedule.
You can’t bring lots of positive energy into your life if your body is unhappy. Exercise regularly to release endorphins, which fill physically fill you with a positive feeling. Also, try and eat fresh produce on a daily basis, as well as foods that are rich in protein.
Exercise doesn’t have to be boring. Try joining a gym or working different muscle groups to change things up!
You can always go for a run to ease your worries. You can add a lot of positive energy to your life by exposing yourself to fresh air, as well as some beautiful natural sights.
3-2. Decorate your home with Feng Shui techniques.
Bring more positive energy into a room by changing the decor and color scheme. By using Feng Shui, the ancient Chinese art of living in a peaceful and harmonious environment, you can redecorate your living space with warm, natural colors (e.g., soft yellow, light green). If you’re up for a larger DIY project, consider repainting the walls in your home to be a soothing environment that oozes positive energy.
You can use Feng Shui techniques in all physical spaces in your life, like your bedroom, workspace, or car.
3-3. Play upbeat, encouraging music on a daily basis.
Set up a speaker or sound system in your home and queue fun music to play while you’re up and about. Motivate yourself to do household chores and other typically boring tasks by singing and dancing along to catchy tunes. Try creating a big playlist of all your favorite jams, so you don’t have to change the song manually.
Link your phone to a wireless speaker to play music from an app or streaming service.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:58:47",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Thinking Positively\\n1-1. Expect that good things are going to happen to you.\\nWake up each morning anticipating that something great is on the horizon. Keep your mind in a positive, hopeful place as you go throughout the day, and notice if the events in your life seem especially upbeat. In many cases, a positive attitude can naturally welcome positive energy into your life, turning a mediocre day into a great one!\\nKeep your expectations realistic. A positive attitude probably won’t make you a lottery winner, but it will make you feel happier throughout the day!\\nFor instance, tell yourself aloud that you’re going to have a good day as soon as you wake up in the morning.\\n1-2. Toss away your negative thoughts and feelings.\\nTake a moment to focus on what’s dragging you down. When you think about negative topics, you end up filling your mind with negative energy. Instead, make a resolution to accept what you cannot change, and try to move forward with more positive thoughts.\\nFor example, if you’re worried that you did poorly on a test, make a specific effort to let that worry go. Tell yourself, “I can’t change what already happened today, so I’m going to make my day better by hanging out with a friend later.”\\n1-3. Don’t needlessly dwell on your problems and illnesses.\\nWhile sickness and other long-term problems can be a pain to deal with, try not to invest any negative energy into these prospects. Instead of thinking about the uncontrollable parts of your life, focus on the aspects that you can control, instead.\\nFor instance, if you feel like you’re coming down with a cold, try not to focus on your symptoms. Instead, view it as a free excuse to relax, enjoy a hot beverage, and watch TV!\\n1-4. Try to laugh and smile whenever possible.\\nGet in the habit of smiling on a daily basis. Invite positive energy into your life by actively seeking out the wholesome and funny aspects of each day. Make an effort to fill your life with positive people who always bring a smile to your face.\\nFor example, try to get in the habit of sincerely laughing at your friends’ upbeat stories.\\n1-5. Say thank you for all of the good aspects of your existence.\\nTake a moment to bring some positive energy into your life by thinking about everything that you’re thankful for. When you’re alone, acknowledge everything in your life that makes you happy, like your friends and family. You can also write out a list of everything that makes you happy, if you want to have a physical reminder on hand.\\nFor instance, try and think of every positive aspect of your life, even if it’s mundane. Taking a moment to spend time with your pet, or spending some time doing a hobby can all be considered positive and good moments in your life.\\n1-6. Forgive\\nThink about all of the people who have hurt you, whether it was recently or a long time ago. Do you still harbor negative feelings toward these individuals? If so, you could be welcoming negative energy into your life without realizing it. Take a moment to mentally forgive the people who have hurt you, and expel their influence from your life.\\nForgiveness doesn’t mean you have to trust or like the person (or people) in question. It means that you’re absolving yourself of the issue and the emotional turmoil that comes with it.\\n2. Putting Yourself First\\n2-1. Commit to loving yourself.\\nTake a moment to think about all of your positive qualities, and write them down in a list. Jot down anything that you’re good at, whether it’s a sport, a hobby, or being a good friend. While it may be difficult to think of good things about yourself, remember that you’ll be inviting positive energy into your life once you do.\\nFor example, try telling yourself: “I may not have a lot of hobbies, but I’m really good at getting things done quickly and efficiently.”\\nTry saying positive things about yourself out loud. Even if you struggle to believe what you say, hearing these affirmations can help you build up your confidence.\\n2-2. Don’t compromise your own happiness for other people.\\nWhile it’s important to think of others, try not to forget about yourself in the process. Before agreeing to do something with a friend or family member, decide if it’s something that would make you happy or not. By avoiding stressful activities and tasks, you can invite a lot more positive, productive energy into your life.\\nFor instance, if you don’t like traveling but your friends invite you on a weekend trip in the city, put your foot down and explain why you would rather not go. Say something like: “I really appreciate you thinking of me, but I feel really drained and stressed out whenever I travel. I hope you have a great time!”\\n2-3. Take active steps to achieve your goals.\\nIf you want to accomplish something big, think of actionable ways you can reach these goals. Don’t expect to fulfill your dreams in a week or a month—instead, divide your goals into small, achievable baby steps. As you accomplish each step, take a moment to celebrate the little victories!\\nFor example: If you want to become fluent in another language, you’ll need to develop a study plan first. Start by learning basic grammar and vocabulary, then work your way up to speaking conversationally.\\nLots of practice is the best way to improve your language skills.\\n2-4. Aim to be mindful and present every day.\\nKeep yourself rooted in the events and activities of your daily schedule. Instead of doing chores and work-related tasks automatically, take a moment to consider how and why you’re doing these things. Prioritize a feeling of awareness in everything that you do to welcome more productive, positive energy into your life.\\nMindfulness isn’t a task that you can check off a list. It’s a lifestyle that you incorporate throughout your day, starting from when you wake up.\\n2-5. Set clear boundaries\\nPerform frequent maintenance on your friendships by determining how far you want the relationship to go. Whenever you to speak with a friend or acquaintance, pay attention to your own thoughts and feelings. If anything a person says makes you uncomfortable, take a moment to address your emotions.\\nDo this on a regular basis, so your negative feelings don’t snowball into something worse.\\nFor example, if you dislike it when a friend calls you “sweetie,” be sure to speak up.\\n3. Adjusting Your Day-to-Day Life\\n3-1. Maintain a healthy diet and exercise schedule.\\nYou can’t bring lots of positive energy into your life if your body is unhappy. Exercise regularly to release endorphins, which fill physically fill you with a positive feeling. Also, try and eat fresh produce on a daily basis, as well as foods that are rich in protein.\\nExercise doesn’t have to be boring. Try joining a gym or working different muscle groups to change things up!\\nYou can always go for a run to ease your worries. You can add a lot of positive energy to your life by exposing yourself to fresh air, as well as some beautiful natural sights.\\n3-2. Decorate your home with Feng Shui techniques.\\nBring more positive energy into a room by changing the decor and color scheme. By using Feng Shui, the ancient Chinese art of living in a peaceful and harmonious environment, you can redecorate your living space with warm, natural colors (e.g., soft yellow, light green). If you’re up for a larger DIY project, consider repainting the walls in your home to be a soothing environment that oozes positive energy.\\nYou can use Feng Shui techniques in all physical spaces in your life, like your bedroom, workspace, or car.\\n3-3. Play upbeat, encouraging music on a daily basis.\\nSet up a speaker or sound system in your home and queue fun music to play while you’re up and about. Motivate yourself to do household chores and other typically boring tasks by singing and dancing along to catchy tunes. Try creating a big playlist of all your favorite jams, so you don’t have to change the song manually.\\nLink your phone to a wireless speaker to play music from an app or streaming service.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"When you’re stuck in a rut of negative energy, it can be difficult to pull yourself out. Thankfully, there are plenty of ways to bring lots of positive energy into your life. First and foremost, it’s important to get in the habit of thinking positively, which can dispel negative feelings and energies from your life. Next, make a commitment to prioritize your own thoughts and feelings ahead of others, so you can stay on top of your own mental health. Finally, make some positive physical changes in your environment, like redecorating your home or going for a run. Always remember—when it comes to your life, your happiness is most important.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Thinking Positively\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Expect that good things are going to happen to you.\", \"描述\": \"Wake up each morning anticipating that something great is on the horizon. Keep your mind in a positive, hopeful place as you go throughout the day, and notice if the events in your life seem especially upbeat. In many cases, a positive attitude can naturally welcome positive energy into your life, turning a mediocre day into a great one!\\nKeep your expectations realistic. A positive attitude probably won’t make you a lottery winner, but it will make you feel happier throughout the day!\\nFor instance, tell yourself aloud that you’re going to have a good day as soon as you wake up in the morning.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Toss away your negative thoughts and feelings.\", \"描述\": \"Take a moment to focus on what’s dragging you down. When you think about negative topics, you end up filling your mind with negative energy. Instead, make a resolution to accept what you cannot change, and try to move forward with more positive thoughts.\\nFor example, if you’re worried that you did poorly on a test, make a specific effort to let that worry go. Tell yourself, “I can’t change what already happened today, so I’m going to make my day better by hanging out with a friend later.”\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Don’t needlessly dwell on your problems and illnesses.\", \"描述\": \"While sickness and other long-term problems can be a pain to deal with, try not to invest any negative energy into these prospects. Instead of thinking about the uncontrollable parts of your life, focus on the aspects that you can control, instead.\\nFor instance, if you feel like you’re coming down with a cold, try not to focus on your symptoms. Instead, view it as a free excuse to relax, enjoy a hot beverage, and watch TV!\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Try to laugh and smile whenever possible.\", \"描述\": \"Get in the habit of smiling on a daily basis. Invite positive energy into your life by actively seeking out the wholesome and funny aspects of each day. Make an effort to fill your life with positive people who always bring a smile to your face.\\nFor example, try to get in the habit of sincerely laughing at your friends’ upbeat stories.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Say thank you for all of the good aspects of your existence.\", \"描述\": \"Take a moment to bring some positive energy into your life by thinking about everything that you’re thankful for. When you’re alone, acknowledge everything in your life that makes you happy, like your friends and family. You can also write out a list of everything that makes you happy, if you want to have a physical reminder on hand.\\nFor instance, try and think of every positive aspect of your life, even if it’s mundane. Taking a moment to spend time with your pet, or spending some time doing a hobby can all be considered positive and good moments in your life.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Forgive\", \"描述\": \"Think about all of the people who have hurt you, whether it was recently or a long time ago. Do you still harbor negative feelings toward these individuals? If so, you could be welcoming negative energy into your life without realizing it. Take a moment to mentally forgive the people who have hurt you, and expel their influence from your life.\\nForgiveness doesn’t mean you have to trust or like the person (or people) in question. It means that you’re absolving yourself of the issue and the emotional turmoil that comes with it.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Putting Yourself First\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Commit to loving yourself.\", \"描述\": \"Take a moment to think about all of your positive qualities, and write them down in a list. Jot down anything that you’re good at, whether it’s a sport, a hobby, or being a good friend. While it may be difficult to think of good things about yourself, remember that you’ll be inviting positive energy into your life once you do.\\nFor example, try telling yourself: “I may not have a lot of hobbies, but I’m really good at getting things done quickly and efficiently.”\\nTry saying positive things about yourself out loud. Even if you struggle to believe what you say, hearing these affirmations can help you build up your confidence.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Don’t compromise your own happiness for other people.\", \"描述\": \"While it’s important to think of others, try not to forget about yourself in the process. Before agreeing to do something with a friend or family member, decide if it’s something that would make you happy or not. By avoiding stressful activities and tasks, you can invite a lot more positive, productive energy into your life.\\nFor instance, if you don’t like traveling but your friends invite you on a weekend trip in the city, put your foot down and explain why you would rather not go. Say something like: “I really appreciate you thinking of me, but I feel really drained and stressed out whenever I travel. I hope you have a great time!”\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Take active steps to achieve your goals.\", \"描述\": \"If you want to accomplish something big, think of actionable ways you can reach these goals. Don’t expect to fulfill your dreams in a week or a month—instead, divide your goals into small, achievable baby steps. As you accomplish each step, take a moment to celebrate the little victories!\\nFor example: If you want to become fluent in another language, you’ll need to develop a study plan first. Start by learning basic grammar and vocabulary, then work your way up to speaking conversationally.\\nLots of practice is the best way to improve your language skills.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Aim to be mindful and present every day.\", \"描述\": \"Keep yourself rooted in the events and activities of your daily schedule. Instead of doing chores and work-related tasks automatically, take a moment to consider how and why you’re doing these things. Prioritize a feeling of awareness in everything that you do to welcome more productive, positive energy into your life.\\nMindfulness isn’t a task that you can check off a list. It’s a lifestyle that you incorporate throughout your day, starting from when you wake up.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Set clear boundaries\", \"描述\": \"Perform frequent maintenance on your friendships by determining how far you want the relationship to go. Whenever you to speak with a friend or acquaintance, pay attention to your own thoughts and feelings. If anything a person says makes you uncomfortable, take a moment to address your emotions.\\nDo this on a regular basis, so your negative feelings don’t snowball into something worse.\\nFor example, if you dislike it when a friend calls you “sweetie,” be sure to speak up.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Adjusting Your Day-to-Day Life\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Maintain a healthy diet and exercise schedule.\", \"描述\": \"You can’t bring lots of positive energy into your life if your body is unhappy. Exercise regularly to release endorphins, which fill physically fill you with a positive feeling. Also, try and eat fresh produce on a daily basis, as well as foods that are rich in protein.\\nExercise doesn’t have to be boring. Try joining a gym or working different muscle groups to change things up!\\nYou can always go for a run to ease your worries. You can add a lot of positive energy to your life by exposing yourself to fresh air, as well as some beautiful natural sights.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Decorate your home with Feng Shui techniques.\", \"描述\": \"Bring more positive energy into a room by changing the decor and color scheme. By using Feng Shui, the ancient Chinese art of living in a peaceful and harmonious environment, you can redecorate your living space with warm, natural colors (e.g., soft yellow, light green). If you’re up for a larger DIY project, consider repainting the walls in your home to be a soothing environment that oozes positive energy.\\nYou can use Feng Shui techniques in all physical spaces in your life, like your bedroom, workspace, or car.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Play upbeat, encouraging music on a daily basis.\", \"描述\": \"Set up a speaker or sound system in your home and queue fun music to play while you’re up and about. Motivate yourself to do household chores and other typically boring tasks by singing and dancing along to catchy tunes. Try creating a big playlist of all your favorite jams, so you don’t have to change the song manually.\\nLink your phone to a wireless speaker to play music from an app or streaming service.\"}]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,010 |
How to Bring Up Good Children
|
1. Steps
1-1. Teach your children the rules of your household (and those you want them to abide by).
It may sound harsh, but you must bring boundaries into the house and do it early, because then they will be less upset when you punish them. Physical punishments are illegal in some locations and many people, including child care experts, don't believe in slapping children. Look into punishments and behaviour adjustment techniques such as the naughty-steps method, scoldings and the warning-warning-punishment technique.
1-2. Read.
Read to your children and with your children. Do not let them get used to watching TV all day. Read them to sleep, and also give them educational books that teach them to read and write themselves.
1-3. Be a good example to your children.
Whilst your offspring are obviously not simian in nature, to a greater or lesser degree, monkey see-monkey do. You should not do something that you wish your children not to do, even when they are not in your presence.
1-4. Teach them to be healthy and widen their tastes.
Feed your children with fruit and vegetables, of as many different varieties as you can. This will, possibly, help to make them good children. Teach them to brush. Encourage them to brush their teeth and hair in the mornings and nights. You should widen their taste to different foods but don't force your child to eat things they don't enjoy the taste off.
1-5. Love and respect your children.
As your child gets older they want more respect and privacy but at the same time they deep-down want your love. Learn to respect and give them a more mature love that doesn't involve kissing.
1-6. Never go by the saying "If you want to act like a child, I'll treat you like one".
It doesn't work and only ends up with older children getting angrier.
1-7. Educate them.
You should be asking them what they did in school today, what they enjoy and don't and especially what they find difficult.
1-8. Let them be themselves.
Don't choose their bedroom layout for them, or tell them what jobs they can't and can do, it makes them feel useless and annoyed, and they may also be afraid they will upset you.
1-9. Make older siblings feel involved in the younger siblings lives.
Older siblings should not be left out or be made to feel like they must be an example. Let older siblings feel involved in younger siblings being brought up- but don't shove the responsibility of being a parent on them.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:58:47",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Teach your children the rules of your household (and those you want them to abide by).\\nIt may sound harsh, but you must bring boundaries into the house and do it early, because then they will be less upset when you punish them. Physical punishments are illegal in some locations and many people, including child care experts, don't believe in slapping children. Look into punishments and behaviour adjustment techniques such as the naughty-steps method, scoldings and the warning-warning-punishment technique.\\n1-2. Read.\\nRead to your children and with your children. Do not let them get used to watching TV all day. Read them to sleep, and also give them educational books that teach them to read and write themselves.\\n1-3. Be a good example to your children.\\nWhilst your offspring are obviously not simian in nature, to a greater or lesser degree, monkey see-monkey do. You should not do something that you wish your children not to do, even when they are not in your presence.\\n1-4. Teach them to be healthy and widen their tastes.\\nFeed your children with fruit and vegetables, of as many different varieties as you can. This will, possibly, help to make them good children. Teach them to brush. Encourage them to brush their teeth and hair in the mornings and nights. You should widen their taste to different foods but don't force your child to eat things they don't enjoy the taste off.\\n1-5. Love and respect your children.\\nAs your child gets older they want more respect and privacy but at the same time they deep-down want your love. Learn to respect and give them a more mature love that doesn't involve kissing.\\n1-6. Never go by the saying \\\"If you want to act like a child, I'll treat you like one\\\".\\nIt doesn't work and only ends up with older children getting angrier.\\n1-7. Educate them.\\nYou should be asking them what they did in school today, what they enjoy and don't and especially what they find difficult.\\n1-8. Let them be themselves.\\nDon't choose their bedroom layout for them, or tell them what jobs they can't and can do, it makes them feel useless and annoyed, and they may also be afraid they will upset you.\\n1-9. Make older siblings feel involved in the younger siblings lives.\\nOlder siblings should not be left out or be made to feel like they must be an example. Let older siblings feel involved in younger siblings being brought up- but don't shove the responsibility of being a parent on them.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Being a parent is stressful but rewarding, and in order to be a good parent you must make good children. There's no universal definition for Good Children, but this article will provide some general advice. Pick the steps that you feel are most applicable.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Teach your children the rules of your household (and those you want them to abide by).\", \"描述\": \"It may sound harsh, but you must bring boundaries into the house and do it early, because then they will be less upset when you punish them. Physical punishments are illegal in some locations and many people, including child care experts, don't believe in slapping children. Look into punishments and behaviour adjustment techniques such as the naughty-steps method, scoldings and the warning-warning-punishment technique.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Read.\", \"描述\": \"Read to your children and with your children. Do not let them get used to watching TV all day. Read them to sleep, and also give them educational books that teach them to read and write themselves.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Be a good example to your children.\", \"描述\": \"Whilst your offspring are obviously not simian in nature, to a greater or lesser degree, monkey see-monkey do. You should not do something that you wish your children not to do, even when they are not in your presence.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Teach them to be healthy and widen their tastes.\", \"描述\": \"Feed your children with fruit and vegetables, of as many different varieties as you can. This will, possibly, help to make them good children. Teach them to brush. Encourage them to brush their teeth and hair in the mornings and nights. You should widen their taste to different foods but don't force your child to eat things they don't enjoy the taste off.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Love and respect your children.\", \"描述\": \"As your child gets older they want more respect and privacy but at the same time they deep-down want your love. Learn to respect and give them a more mature love that doesn't involve kissing.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Never go by the saying \\\"If you want to act like a child, I'll treat you like one\\\".\", \"描述\": \"It doesn't work and only ends up with older children getting angrier.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Educate them.\", \"描述\": \"You should be asking them what they did in school today, what they enjoy and don't and especially what they find difficult.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Let them be themselves.\", \"描述\": \"Don't choose their bedroom layout for them, or tell them what jobs they can't and can do, it makes them feel useless and annoyed, and they may also be afraid they will upset you.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Make older siblings feel involved in the younger siblings lives.\", \"描述\": \"Older siblings should not be left out or be made to feel like they must be an example. Let older siblings feel involved in younger siblings being brought up- but don't shove the responsibility of being a parent on them.\"}]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,011 |
How to Bring Up LGBT+ Topics to Potential Homophobes
|
1. Planning to Discuss the Topic
1-1. Choose who you want to talk about the subject with.
If you know someone who exhibits homophobia, it may not be a good idea to bring up LGBTQ issues. Using slurs (even if the person is aware that slurs are offensive), thinking being gay is a 'phase,' thinking LGBTQ people are 'gross,' and avoiding gay content in movies, TV, and other media are all signs of homophobia. It's not a good idea to bring up LGBTQ issues with someone you know is homophobic.
On the other hand, if you know someone who is accepting of LGBTQ people (or who is LGBTQ themselves), it is probably fine to bring up the subject with them. Choose wisely on who to tell and who not to tell.
1-2. Decide what you want to talk about and research it thoroughly.
Perhaps you'd like to bring up LGBTQ rights or LGBTQ adoption. Make a plan for whatever you want to talk about. Conduct research on the topic you wish to discuss. Being well-prepared allows you to answer any questions that the person you're speaking with may have. Being able to provide them with detailed information may aid in their understanding of the topic.
1-3. Look for reliable sources for the information you researched.
A homophobic person may wish to debate your information by attempting to convince you that your ideas are incorrect or not scientifically proven. Show them the sources to ensure you have backup. Some trusted LGBTQ resources include:
Gay, Lesbian & Straight Education Network (GLSEN)
Genders & Sexualities Alliance Network (GSA)
Human Rights Campaign (HRC)
1-4. Include a third-party in the conversation (optional).
If you believe that LGBT-related conversations could put you in danger, bring someone you trust with you to help you navigate the conversation.
2. Introducing LGBTQ Topics
2-1. Plan an appropriate time to talk.
Timing is very important. Someone may not want to have a conversation with you just after they got of work or out of school. Find a time when both of you are free and not busy to discuss.
2-2. Look for a private, relaxed setting.
If the potential homophobic person is at ease, they may not react as negatively as you expected. A more relaxed atmosphere leads to a more relaxed conversation. If you feel unsafe or concerned about the person shouting or becoming angry, you should go to a public place, such as a quieter, yet public place such as a cafe, where others can see you.
2-3. Introduce your topic gradually.
Instead of jumping right into the topic, start with some light small talk. If the topic is simply something you believe the homophobic person should be aware of, you could introduce it by saying, "Last week, I read this article on...". You are now free to continue discussing the subject.
2-4. If the subject is more serious or concerns your own identity, start slowly.
You might begin by saying "I'd like to talk to you about something important," or something along those lines. This allows the person in question to set aside their prejudices for a moment and listen to you before expressing their own opinion on the subject. When someone knows how it affects you personally, they may be more considerate.
2-5. Allow the receiver time to think about the new information.
A new or loaded subject may be overwhelming for some people. Give them some time to think about what you are telling them. They may want to ask you some questions or simply need some space. Do not rush the conversation.
2-6. After having the conversation, you may want to bring it up again later on.
Make it a more casual topic by talking about it more. Talking about something more frequently makes it an easier subject to discuss.
2-7. Handle any conflict that arises.
If the potential homophobic person becomes angry or raises their voice at you, try to remain calm and not respond with anger. Staying calm demonstrates that you are not as dangerous or bad as they may believe. Try to
Tips
Be prepared to answer any questions when talking about your own identity.
Warnings
Not everyone is in the safe position to have conversations like these. Consider your own safety beforehand.
If it is too dangerous, avoid having this conversation. Caution should be given to your own safety.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:58:47",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Planning to Discuss the Topic\\n1-1. Choose who you want to talk about the subject with.\\nIf you know someone who exhibits homophobia, it may not be a good idea to bring up LGBTQ issues. Using slurs (even if the person is aware that slurs are offensive), thinking being gay is a 'phase,' thinking LGBTQ people are 'gross,' and avoiding gay content in movies, TV, and other media are all signs of homophobia. It's not a good idea to bring up LGBTQ issues with someone you know is homophobic.\\nOn the other hand, if you know someone who is accepting of LGBTQ people (or who is LGBTQ themselves), it is probably fine to bring up the subject with them. Choose wisely on who to tell and who not to tell.\\n1-2. Decide what you want to talk about and research it thoroughly.\\nPerhaps you'd like to bring up LGBTQ rights or LGBTQ adoption. Make a plan for whatever you want to talk about. Conduct research on the topic you wish to discuss. Being well-prepared allows you to answer any questions that the person you're speaking with may have. Being able to provide them with detailed information may aid in their understanding of the topic.\\n1-3. Look for reliable sources for the information you researched.\\nA homophobic person may wish to debate your information by attempting to convince you that your ideas are incorrect or not scientifically proven. Show them the sources to ensure you have backup. Some trusted LGBTQ resources include:\\nGay, Lesbian & Straight Education Network (GLSEN)\\nGenders & Sexualities Alliance Network (GSA)\\nHuman Rights Campaign (HRC)\\n1-4. Include a third-party in the conversation (optional).\\nIf you believe that LGBT-related conversations could put you in danger, bring someone you trust with you to help you navigate the conversation.\\n2. Introducing LGBTQ Topics\\n2-1. Plan an appropriate time to talk.\\nTiming is very important. Someone may not want to have a conversation with you just after they got of work or out of school. Find a time when both of you are free and not busy to discuss.\\n2-2. Look for a private, relaxed setting.\\nIf the potential homophobic person is at ease, they may not react as negatively as you expected. A more relaxed atmosphere leads to a more relaxed conversation. If you feel unsafe or concerned about the person shouting or becoming angry, you should go to a public place, such as a quieter, yet public place such as a cafe, where others can see you.\\n2-3. Introduce your topic gradually.\\nInstead of jumping right into the topic, start with some light small talk. If the topic is simply something you believe the homophobic person should be aware of, you could introduce it by saying, \\\"Last week, I read this article on...\\\". You are now free to continue discussing the subject.\\n2-4. If the subject is more serious or concerns your own identity, start slowly.\\nYou might begin by saying \\\"I'd like to talk to you about something important,\\\" or something along those lines. This allows the person in question to set aside their prejudices for a moment and listen to you before expressing their own opinion on the subject. When someone knows how it affects you personally, they may be more considerate.\\n2-5. Allow the receiver time to think about the new information.\\nA new or loaded subject may be overwhelming for some people. Give them some time to think about what you are telling them. They may want to ask you some questions or simply need some space. Do not rush the conversation.\\n2-6. After having the conversation, you may want to bring it up again later on.\\nMake it a more casual topic by talking about it more. Talking about something more frequently makes it an easier subject to discuss.\\n2-7. Handle any conflict that arises.\\nIf the potential homophobic person becomes angry or raises their voice at you, try to remain calm and not respond with anger. Staying calm demonstrates that you are not as dangerous or bad as they may believe. Try to\\nTips\\nBe prepared to answer any questions when talking about your own identity.\\nWarnings\\nNot everyone is in the safe position to have conversations like these. Consider your own safety beforehand.\\nIf it is too dangerous, avoid having this conversation. Caution should be given to your own safety.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"You may want to bring up an LGBTQ topic with a friend or family member to see how they react to LGBTQ topics to determine if they are homophobic. It can be difficult to talk to (potential) homophobes about LGBTQ issues and people, but it is a good way to expose them to new information that may cause them to reconsider their views. This article will show you exactly how to do so.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Planning to Discuss the Topic\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Choose who you want to talk about the subject with.\", \"描述\": \"If you know someone who exhibits homophobia, it may not be a good idea to bring up LGBTQ issues. Using slurs (even if the person is aware that slurs are offensive), thinking being gay is a 'phase,' thinking LGBTQ people are 'gross,' and avoiding gay content in movies, TV, and other media are all signs of homophobia. It's not a good idea to bring up LGBTQ issues with someone you know is homophobic.\\nOn the other hand, if you know someone who is accepting of LGBTQ people (or who is LGBTQ themselves), it is probably fine to bring up the subject with them. Choose wisely on who to tell and who not to tell.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Decide what you want to talk about and research it thoroughly.\", \"描述\": \"Perhaps you'd like to bring up LGBTQ rights or LGBTQ adoption. Make a plan for whatever you want to talk about. Conduct research on the topic you wish to discuss. Being well-prepared allows you to answer any questions that the person you're speaking with may have. Being able to provide them with detailed information may aid in their understanding of the topic.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Look for reliable sources for the information you researched.\", \"描述\": \"A homophobic person may wish to debate your information by attempting to convince you that your ideas are incorrect or not scientifically proven. Show them the sources to ensure you have backup. Some trusted LGBTQ resources include:\\nGay, Lesbian & Straight Education Network (GLSEN)\\nGenders & Sexualities Alliance Network (GSA)\\nHuman Rights Campaign (HRC)\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Include a third-party in the conversation (optional).\", \"描述\": \"If you believe that LGBT-related conversations could put you in danger, bring someone you trust with you to help you navigate the conversation.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Introducing LGBTQ Topics\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Plan an appropriate time to talk.\", \"描述\": \"Timing is very important. Someone may not want to have a conversation with you just after they got of work or out of school. Find a time when both of you are free and not busy to discuss.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Look for a private, relaxed setting.\", \"描述\": \"If the potential homophobic person is at ease, they may not react as negatively as you expected. A more relaxed atmosphere leads to a more relaxed conversation. If you feel unsafe or concerned about the person shouting or becoming angry, you should go to a public place, such as a quieter, yet public place such as a cafe, where others can see you.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Introduce your topic gradually.\", \"描述\": \"Instead of jumping right into the topic, start with some light small talk. If the topic is simply something you believe the homophobic person should be aware of, you could introduce it by saying, \\\"Last week, I read this article on...\\\". You are now free to continue discussing the subject.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"If the subject is more serious or concerns your own identity, start slowly.\", \"描述\": \"You might begin by saying \\\"I'd like to talk to you about something important,\\\" or something along those lines. This allows the person in question to set aside their prejudices for a moment and listen to you before expressing their own opinion on the subject. When someone knows how it affects you personally, they may be more considerate.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Allow the receiver time to think about the new information.\", \"描述\": \"A new or loaded subject may be overwhelming for some people. Give them some time to think about what you are telling them. They may want to ask you some questions or simply need some space. Do not rush the conversation.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"After having the conversation, you may want to bring it up again later on.\", \"描述\": \"Make it a more casual topic by talking about it more. Talking about something more frequently makes it an easier subject to discuss.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Handle any conflict that arises.\", \"描述\": \"If the potential homophobic person becomes angry or raises their voice at you, try to remain calm and not respond with anger. Staying calm demonstrates that you are not as dangerous or bad as they may believe. Try to\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Be prepared to answer any questions when talking about your own identity.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Not everyone is in the safe position to have conversations like these. Consider your own safety beforehand.\\n\", \"If it is too dangerous, avoid having this conversation. Caution should be given to your own safety.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,012 |
How to Bring Up Your Grade Near the End of the Semester
|
1. Getting Good Grades at the End
1-1. Look at your old work.
If you have a final coming up or a paper that's due soon, it's a good idea to take a look back at the work you've already done for the class. This will help you identify your weaknesses, so you can work on improving them.
If you look back at your old exams and you still don't understand why you got the questions wrong, be sure to consult your book or ask your teacher for a more detailed explanation.
Consider asking your teacher what she thinks you should do to get a better grade on your next assignment. She may have more advice for you than what she wrote on your last paper.
1-2. Improve your study habits before your final exam.
If you really want a good grade on your final, you're going to have to commit yourself to studying. Be sure to set enough time to go over all of your material in detail, and don't procrastinate. It may feel difficult right now, but final exams are often worth 15-20% of your final class grade. Study hard now and the payoff will be well worth it.
Start studying well in advance so you don't have to cram and you have plenty of time to take breaks. You will be much less stressed and much better able to learn if you allow yourself to get up and stretch or take a walk every half hour or so.
Make sure you know what kind of learner you are. Some people learn better from reading and writing (visual learners), while others learn better from listening and speaking (auditory learners). Also, some people benefit from studying with groups, while others do not. If you know which methods work best for you, you will be much more successful.
Having a dedicated space for studying that is well-organized and free of distractions is very helpful. If you don't have anyplace to study at home, consider staying after school or going to your local library.
If you have a study hall, use it for studying and completing homework assignments instead of socializing. This extra hour of work can make a big difference in your grades.
1-3. Understand the grading system.
In order to have the best chance getting good grades, it is essential that you understand how you will be graded and how much each assignment is worth. If you have any questions about this, be sure to ask your teacher right away.
Whenever you are working on a project, be sure to understand the rubric that will be used to grade it. This should outline exactly what the teacher is looking for in your work what it will take to get an A. If your teacher didn't give you a rubric, ask for a detailed explanation of how the assignment will be graded.
It's also important to know what else you can get points for. For example, some teachers offer points for participation, so you may be able to get some extra points simply by raising your hand more in class.
1-4. Start working on big projects early.
If you have a large project like a research paper to do, don't wait until the last minute to get started. This project will most likely have a huge impact on your final grade, so take your time and make sure you do your best work.
If your teacher has not broken the project up into smaller steps, consider asking for advice on how to do so. This will help make it feel much more manageable and less overwhelming. For example, you can break the large task of writing a research paper into the smaller tasks of choosing a topic, finding supporting sources, creating an outline, writing a rough draft, and writing a final draft.
Consider asking your teacher for help along the way. Even if you are not required to hand in a rough draft, ask your teacher to look it over and give you suggestions for how to improve your work.
If you have trouble managing your time, give yourself due dates for each step. Plan on working on the project for 30-60 minutes each day, depending on how much you have to get done.
1-5. Get help if you need it.
It's important to get extra help as soon as you feel like you're starting to fall behind, rather than waiting until it's too late. Addressing the issue right away will help ensure that you will understand the material when it comes time to take a test.
If you have questions about anything that was discussed in class, be sure to ask your teacher right away. If you can't ask during class, try to stay after class, show up early, or visit your teacher during a free period.
If you need more help than your teacher can offer you, get a tutor. Many schools offer free tutoring for their students, so be sure to find out what is available for you. If this is not available or if it doesn't work for you, you can also hire a private tutor to come to your home or visit a tutoring center.
2. Completing Your Assignments
2-1. Spend some extra time on your homework.
If you have been getting poor grades on homework assignments, it's time to up your game and put a little more effort into them. Even if each assignment is not worth that much, your cumulative grade for homework can be a big chunk of your final grade.
Be sure you understand what you are supposed to do before you leave class. If you have any questions about how to complete the homework assignment, ask your teacher for clarification.
Always read the directions (or listen to them) and follow them precisely. Don't be lazy and write fewer words than were asked of you or neglect to show your work.
2-2. Turn your work in on time.
Always write down when each assignment is due and hand it in on time. There's nothing worse than getting points off for handing in an assignment late because you forgot that it was due!
If keeping track of your assignments in a planner or a digital calendar helps keep you organized, then be sure to record all of your homework assignments there.
Try planning out a specific time to complete each assignment, and be sure to take other obligations into consideration. For example, if you know that you have a basketball game on Thursday and will only have one hour to work on homework, don't put off any assignments until Thursday that can be completed on Wednesday.
2-3. Ask about making up missed assignments.
If you missed any assignments because you were absent or because you simply didn't do them, ask your teacher if you can hand them in late. While you may only get partial credit for make-up work, it's definitely better than having a zero for that assignment.
Ask about the possibility of making up in-class assignments that you missed as well as homework. Offer to come to the classroom during lunchtime or a free period to work on them.
2-4. Ask to re-do old assignments.
Try asking your teacher to revise an essay, re-take a test, or re-do a project that you got a bad grade on. You could suggest that the teacher could replace the grade or average the two grades together. Your teacher may be willing to let you do this if you seem committed to bringing your grade up.
Try to focus on substantive assignments that have a bigger impact on your overall grade rather than smaller assignments such as homework that may not make as big of a difference.
2-5. Prioritize.
While you may want to do whatever you can to improve a specific grade, it's important to be smart about it. Do not bring up one grade at the expense of another, whether it's for the same class or another one.
Focus the majority of your energy on the assignments that will earn you the most points. For example, if your final project is worth 50% of your grade and your homework assignments are worth 10%, spend more time studying for the final than working on your homework. This does not mean you should not do your other work, but simply that you should not spend as much time on it.
Never neglect a current assignment in favor of make-up work unless you are sure that you will earn more points for it.
Don't neglect your other classes either. You shouldn't end up with a bad grade in one class because you were focusing all of your energy on trying to improve your grade in another. This will have a negative effect on your overall GPA.
3. Doing Extra Credit
3-1. Don't be afraid to ask.
Just because your teacher has not announced extra credit opportunities, does not necessarily mean that there are none. If you feel you would benefit from extra credit, always ask your teacher what you can do to improve your grade.
If something is going on in your life that has affected your grades, make sure your teacher knows about it. She may be more willing to work with you if you have a legitimate excuse for falling behind in the first place.
Be sure to communicate that you are genuinely willing to work to improve your grade. Teachers are not likely to change your grade unless you put in a lot of effort.
Understand ahead of time how much of an effect extra credit can have on your grade. This will vary from class to class, so never expect that you can turn your C into an A by writing one additional essay just because that worked in another class.
3-2. See it as a gift.
Some teachers offer lots of extra credit opportunities, but some don't offer any at all, so don't expect it. If your teacher does give you the chance to complete extra credit assignments, be thankful for it.
Do not complain about the amount of work that is required or the number of points you can earn for it. Your teacher didn't have to give you any extra credit opportunities at all.
Do as much extra credit as you can, as long as it isn't interfering with your other assignments. You should always complete the required assignments for your class before you move on to extra credit.
3-3. Commit yourself to it.
If you've been given an extra credit assignment, it's up to you to make the most out of it. In order to show your teacher that you really care and get the best grade possible, you need to put your all into your work.
As with all other assignments, make sure you understand the expectations. Don't be afraid to ask your teacher to explain the requirements if you don't understand them.
If your teacher gives you the option to choose your extra credit assignment, make it something that you are passionate about. For example, if you have to write a research paper about a controversial issue of your choosing, pick a topic that you find interesting. You will have a much easier time completing the assignment (and you will probably do better work) if you enjoy learning about the topic.
Always hand your extra credit in on time. Do not disappoint your teachers again by turning in your work late.
Tips
Extra credit is much less likely to be offered in college. If you are in college, it is probably in your best interest to focus on getting the best possible grade on your final exams and papers.
Stay focused. If you're stressed out, try doing some meditation.
Be respectful to your teacher and be grateful for any second chances.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:58:48",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Getting Good Grades at the End\\n1-1. Look at your old work.\\nIf you have a final coming up or a paper that's due soon, it's a good idea to take a look back at the work you've already done for the class. This will help you identify your weaknesses, so you can work on improving them.\\nIf you look back at your old exams and you still don't understand why you got the questions wrong, be sure to consult your book or ask your teacher for a more detailed explanation.\\nConsider asking your teacher what she thinks you should do to get a better grade on your next assignment. She may have more advice for you than what she wrote on your last paper.\\n1-2. Improve your study habits before your final exam.\\nIf you really want a good grade on your final, you're going to have to commit yourself to studying. Be sure to set enough time to go over all of your material in detail, and don't procrastinate. It may feel difficult right now, but final exams are often worth 15-20% of your final class grade. Study hard now and the payoff will be well worth it.\\nStart studying well in advance so you don't have to cram and you have plenty of time to take breaks. You will be much less stressed and much better able to learn if you allow yourself to get up and stretch or take a walk every half hour or so.\\nMake sure you know what kind of learner you are. Some people learn better from reading and writing (visual learners), while others learn better from listening and speaking (auditory learners). Also, some people benefit from studying with groups, while others do not. If you know which methods work best for you, you will be much more successful.\\nHaving a dedicated space for studying that is well-organized and free of distractions is very helpful. If you don't have anyplace to study at home, consider staying after school or going to your local library.\\nIf you have a study hall, use it for studying and completing homework assignments instead of socializing. This extra hour of work can make a big difference in your grades.\\n1-3. Understand the grading system.\\nIn order to have the best chance getting good grades, it is essential that you understand how you will be graded and how much each assignment is worth. If you have any questions about this, be sure to ask your teacher right away.\\nWhenever you are working on a project, be sure to understand the rubric that will be used to grade it. This should outline exactly what the teacher is looking for in your work what it will take to get an A. If your teacher didn't give you a rubric, ask for a detailed explanation of how the assignment will be graded.\\nIt's also important to know what else you can get points for. For example, some teachers offer points for participation, so you may be able to get some extra points simply by raising your hand more in class.\\n1-4. Start working on big projects early.\\nIf you have a large project like a research paper to do, don't wait until the last minute to get started. This project will most likely have a huge impact on your final grade, so take your time and make sure you do your best work.\\nIf your teacher has not broken the project up into smaller steps, consider asking for advice on how to do so. This will help make it feel much more manageable and less overwhelming. For example, you can break the large task of writing a research paper into the smaller tasks of choosing a topic, finding supporting sources, creating an outline, writing a rough draft, and writing a final draft.\\nConsider asking your teacher for help along the way. Even if you are not required to hand in a rough draft, ask your teacher to look it over and give you suggestions for how to improve your work.\\nIf you have trouble managing your time, give yourself due dates for each step. Plan on working on the project for 30-60 minutes each day, depending on how much you have to get done.\\n1-5. Get help if you need it.\\nIt's important to get extra help as soon as you feel like you're starting to fall behind, rather than waiting until it's too late. Addressing the issue right away will help ensure that you will understand the material when it comes time to take a test.\\nIf you have questions about anything that was discussed in class, be sure to ask your teacher right away. If you can't ask during class, try to stay after class, show up early, or visit your teacher during a free period.\\nIf you need more help than your teacher can offer you, get a tutor. Many schools offer free tutoring for their students, so be sure to find out what is available for you. If this is not available or if it doesn't work for you, you can also hire a private tutor to come to your home or visit a tutoring center.\\n2. Completing Your Assignments\\n2-1. Spend some extra time on your homework.\\nIf you have been getting poor grades on homework assignments, it's time to up your game and put a little more effort into them. Even if each assignment is not worth that much, your cumulative grade for homework can be a big chunk of your final grade.\\nBe sure you understand what you are supposed to do before you leave class. If you have any questions about how to complete the homework assignment, ask your teacher for clarification.\\nAlways read the directions (or listen to them) and follow them precisely. Don't be lazy and write fewer words than were asked of you or neglect to show your work.\\n2-2. Turn your work in on time.\\nAlways write down when each assignment is due and hand it in on time. There's nothing worse than getting points off for handing in an assignment late because you forgot that it was due!\\nIf keeping track of your assignments in a planner or a digital calendar helps keep you organized, then be sure to record all of your homework assignments there.\\nTry planning out a specific time to complete each assignment, and be sure to take other obligations into consideration. For example, if you know that you have a basketball game on Thursday and will only have one hour to work on homework, don't put off any assignments until Thursday that can be completed on Wednesday.\\n2-3. Ask about making up missed assignments.\\nIf you missed any assignments because you were absent or because you simply didn't do them, ask your teacher if you can hand them in late. While you may only get partial credit for make-up work, it's definitely better than having a zero for that assignment.\\nAsk about the possibility of making up in-class assignments that you missed as well as homework. Offer to come to the classroom during lunchtime or a free period to work on them.\\n2-4. Ask to re-do old assignments.\\nTry asking your teacher to revise an essay, re-take a test, or re-do a project that you got a bad grade on. You could suggest that the teacher could replace the grade or average the two grades together. Your teacher may be willing to let you do this if you seem committed to bringing your grade up.\\nTry to focus on substantive assignments that have a bigger impact on your overall grade rather than smaller assignments such as homework that may not make as big of a difference.\\n2-5. Prioritize.\\nWhile you may want to do whatever you can to improve a specific grade, it's important to be smart about it. Do not bring up one grade at the expense of another, whether it's for the same class or another one.\\nFocus the majority of your energy on the assignments that will earn you the most points. For example, if your final project is worth 50% of your grade and your homework assignments are worth 10%, spend more time studying for the final than working on your homework. This does not mean you should not do your other work, but simply that you should not spend as much time on it.\\nNever neglect a current assignment in favor of make-up work unless you are sure that you will earn more points for it.\\nDon't neglect your other classes either. You shouldn't end up with a bad grade in one class because you were focusing all of your energy on trying to improve your grade in another. This will have a negative effect on your overall GPA.\\n3. Doing Extra Credit\\n3-1. Don't be afraid to ask.\\nJust because your teacher has not announced extra credit opportunities, does not necessarily mean that there are none. If you feel you would benefit from extra credit, always ask your teacher what you can do to improve your grade.\\nIf something is going on in your life that has affected your grades, make sure your teacher knows about it. She may be more willing to work with you if you have a legitimate excuse for falling behind in the first place.\\nBe sure to communicate that you are genuinely willing to work to improve your grade. Teachers are not likely to change your grade unless you put in a lot of effort.\\nUnderstand ahead of time how much of an effect extra credit can have on your grade. This will vary from class to class, so never expect that you can turn your C into an A by writing one additional essay just because that worked in another class.\\n3-2. See it as a gift.\\nSome teachers offer lots of extra credit opportunities, but some don't offer any at all, so don't expect it. If your teacher does give you the chance to complete extra credit assignments, be thankful for it.\\nDo not complain about the amount of work that is required or the number of points you can earn for it. Your teacher didn't have to give you any extra credit opportunities at all.\\nDo as much extra credit as you can, as long as it isn't interfering with your other assignments. You should always complete the required assignments for your class before you move on to extra credit.\\n3-3. Commit yourself to it.\\nIf you've been given an extra credit assignment, it's up to you to make the most out of it. In order to show your teacher that you really care and get the best grade possible, you need to put your all into your work.\\nAs with all other assignments, make sure you understand the expectations. Don't be afraid to ask your teacher to explain the requirements if you don't understand them.\\nIf your teacher gives you the option to choose your extra credit assignment, make it something that you are passionate about. For example, if you have to write a research paper about a controversial issue of your choosing, pick a topic that you find interesting. You will have a much easier time completing the assignment (and you will probably do better work) if you enjoy learning about the topic.\\nAlways hand your extra credit in on time. Do not disappoint your teachers again by turning in your work late.\\nTips\\nExtra credit is much less likely to be offered in college. If you are in college, it is probably in your best interest to focus on getting the best possible grade on your final exams and papers.\\nStay focused. If you're stressed out, try doing some meditation.\\nBe respectful to your teacher and be grateful for any second chances.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"If you're nearing the end of the semester and your grade isn't where you'd like it to be, don't panic! You still have some time to improve your grade before the term ends. Focus your energy on getting the best possible grades on your final exams and projects, handing in all current and late assignments, and completing as much extra credit work as you can.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Getting Good Grades at the End\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Look at your old work.\", \"描述\": \"If you have a final coming up or a paper that's due soon, it's a good idea to take a look back at the work you've already done for the class. This will help you identify your weaknesses, so you can work on improving them.\\nIf you look back at your old exams and you still don't understand why you got the questions wrong, be sure to consult your book or ask your teacher for a more detailed explanation.\\nConsider asking your teacher what she thinks you should do to get a better grade on your next assignment. She may have more advice for you than what she wrote on your last paper.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Improve your study habits before your final exam.\", \"描述\": \"If you really want a good grade on your final, you're going to have to commit yourself to studying. Be sure to set enough time to go over all of your material in detail, and don't procrastinate. It may feel difficult right now, but final exams are often worth 15-20% of your final class grade. Study hard now and the payoff will be well worth it.\\nStart studying well in advance so you don't have to cram and you have plenty of time to take breaks. You will be much less stressed and much better able to learn if you allow yourself to get up and stretch or take a walk every half hour or so.\\nMake sure you know what kind of learner you are. Some people learn better from reading and writing (visual learners), while others learn better from listening and speaking (auditory learners). Also, some people benefit from studying with groups, while others do not. If you know which methods work best for you, you will be much more successful.\\nHaving a dedicated space for studying that is well-organized and free of distractions is very helpful. If you don't have anyplace to study at home, consider staying after school or going to your local library.\\nIf you have a study hall, use it for studying and completing homework assignments instead of socializing. This extra hour of work can make a big difference in your grades.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Understand the grading system.\", \"描述\": \"In order to have the best chance getting good grades, it is essential that you understand how you will be graded and how much each assignment is worth. If you have any questions about this, be sure to ask your teacher right away.\\nWhenever you are working on a project, be sure to understand the rubric that will be used to grade it. This should outline exactly what the teacher is looking for in your work what it will take to get an A. If your teacher didn't give you a rubric, ask for a detailed explanation of how the assignment will be graded.\\nIt's also important to know what else you can get points for. For example, some teachers offer points for participation, so you may be able to get some extra points simply by raising your hand more in class.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Start working on big projects early.\", \"描述\": \"If you have a large project like a research paper to do, don't wait until the last minute to get started. This project will most likely have a huge impact on your final grade, so take your time and make sure you do your best work.\\nIf your teacher has not broken the project up into smaller steps, consider asking for advice on how to do so. This will help make it feel much more manageable and less overwhelming. For example, you can break the large task of writing a research paper into the smaller tasks of choosing a topic, finding supporting sources, creating an outline, writing a rough draft, and writing a final draft.\\nConsider asking your teacher for help along the way. Even if you are not required to hand in a rough draft, ask your teacher to look it over and give you suggestions for how to improve your work.\\nIf you have trouble managing your time, give yourself due dates for each step. Plan on working on the project for 30-60 minutes each day, depending on how much you have to get done.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Get help if you need it.\", \"描述\": \"It's important to get extra help as soon as you feel like you're starting to fall behind, rather than waiting until it's too late. Addressing the issue right away will help ensure that you will understand the material when it comes time to take a test.\\nIf you have questions about anything that was discussed in class, be sure to ask your teacher right away. If you can't ask during class, try to stay after class, show up early, or visit your teacher during a free period.\\nIf you need more help than your teacher can offer you, get a tutor. Many schools offer free tutoring for their students, so be sure to find out what is available for you. If this is not available or if it doesn't work for you, you can also hire a private tutor to come to your home or visit a tutoring center.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Completing Your Assignments\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Spend some extra time on your homework.\", \"描述\": \"If you have been getting poor grades on homework assignments, it's time to up your game and put a little more effort into them. Even if each assignment is not worth that much, your cumulative grade for homework can be a big chunk of your final grade.\\nBe sure you understand what you are supposed to do before you leave class. If you have any questions about how to complete the homework assignment, ask your teacher for clarification.\\nAlways read the directions (or listen to them) and follow them precisely. Don't be lazy and write fewer words than were asked of you or neglect to show your work.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Turn your work in on time.\", \"描述\": \"Always write down when each assignment is due and hand it in on time. There's nothing worse than getting points off for handing in an assignment late because you forgot that it was due!\\nIf keeping track of your assignments in a planner or a digital calendar helps keep you organized, then be sure to record all of your homework assignments there.\\nTry planning out a specific time to complete each assignment, and be sure to take other obligations into consideration. For example, if you know that you have a basketball game on Thursday and will only have one hour to work on homework, don't put off any assignments until Thursday that can be completed on Wednesday.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Ask about making up missed assignments.\", \"描述\": \"If you missed any assignments because you were absent or because you simply didn't do them, ask your teacher if you can hand them in late. While you may only get partial credit for make-up work, it's definitely better than having a zero for that assignment.\\nAsk about the possibility of making up in-class assignments that you missed as well as homework. Offer to come to the classroom during lunchtime or a free period to work on them.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Ask to re-do old assignments.\", \"描述\": \"Try asking your teacher to revise an essay, re-take a test, or re-do a project that you got a bad grade on. You could suggest that the teacher could replace the grade or average the two grades together. Your teacher may be willing to let you do this if you seem committed to bringing your grade up.\\nTry to focus on substantive assignments that have a bigger impact on your overall grade rather than smaller assignments such as homework that may not make as big of a difference.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Prioritize.\", \"描述\": \"While you may want to do whatever you can to improve a specific grade, it's important to be smart about it. Do not bring up one grade at the expense of another, whether it's for the same class or another one.\\nFocus the majority of your energy on the assignments that will earn you the most points. For example, if your final project is worth 50% of your grade and your homework assignments are worth 10%, spend more time studying for the final than working on your homework. This does not mean you should not do your other work, but simply that you should not spend as much time on it.\\nNever neglect a current assignment in favor of make-up work unless you are sure that you will earn more points for it.\\nDon't neglect your other classes either. You shouldn't end up with a bad grade in one class because you were focusing all of your energy on trying to improve your grade in another. This will have a negative effect on your overall GPA.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Doing Extra Credit\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Don't be afraid to ask.\", \"描述\": \"Just because your teacher has not announced extra credit opportunities, does not necessarily mean that there are none. If you feel you would benefit from extra credit, always ask your teacher what you can do to improve your grade.\\nIf something is going on in your life that has affected your grades, make sure your teacher knows about it. She may be more willing to work with you if you have a legitimate excuse for falling behind in the first place.\\nBe sure to communicate that you are genuinely willing to work to improve your grade. Teachers are not likely to change your grade unless you put in a lot of effort.\\nUnderstand ahead of time how much of an effect extra credit can have on your grade. This will vary from class to class, so never expect that you can turn your C into an A by writing one additional essay just because that worked in another class.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"See it as a gift.\", \"描述\": \"Some teachers offer lots of extra credit opportunities, but some don't offer any at all, so don't expect it. If your teacher does give you the chance to complete extra credit assignments, be thankful for it.\\nDo not complain about the amount of work that is required or the number of points you can earn for it. Your teacher didn't have to give you any extra credit opportunities at all.\\nDo as much extra credit as you can, as long as it isn't interfering with your other assignments. You should always complete the required assignments for your class before you move on to extra credit.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Commit yourself to it.\", \"描述\": \"If you've been given an extra credit assignment, it's up to you to make the most out of it. In order to show your teacher that you really care and get the best grade possible, you need to put your all into your work.\\nAs with all other assignments, make sure you understand the expectations. Don't be afraid to ask your teacher to explain the requirements if you don't understand them.\\nIf your teacher gives you the option to choose your extra credit assignment, make it something that you are passionate about. For example, if you have to write a research paper about a controversial issue of your choosing, pick a topic that you find interesting. You will have a much easier time completing the assignment (and you will probably do better work) if you enjoy learning about the topic.\\nAlways hand your extra credit in on time. Do not disappoint your teachers again by turning in your work late.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Extra credit is much less likely to be offered in college. If you are in college, it is probably in your best interest to focus on getting the best possible grade on your final exams and papers.\\n\", \"Stay focused. If you're stressed out, try doing some meditation.\\n\", \"Be respectful to your teacher and be grateful for any second chances.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,013 |
How to Bring Your Cat to the Vet Without a Carrier
|
1. Securing the Cat Without a Carrier
1-1. Try a sports bag.
You need to make sure your cat is not disruptive in the vet's office. Simply carrying your cat in your arms can pose a problem, as cats are hard to secure when frightened. If you don't want to use a carrier or don't have one, one alternative is a sports bag.
Sports bags are bags designed to carry clothing and other equipment to and from the gym or other sporting events. Many sports bags have nylon material lining the sides, filled with holes that allow for a cat to breathe easy through the bag.
Owners who feel carriers are uncomfortable for cats sometimes use a sports bag made from nylon to carry their cat and from the vet. Make sure you find a sports bag with at least some nylon or mesh sides so your cat can breathe and see his environment when being transported to the vet's office.
You also want a sports bag with a secure, flat solid bottom. A bottom that is not supported will sink in when you pick up the bag, causing discomfort for your cat.
Many owners equip sports bags with toys, blankets, and other items their cat might find comforting.
1-2. Use a harness.
A cat harness is a device owners use to walk their cats. If you want to take your cat to the vet without a carrier, you could consider using a harness.
Make sure you purchase a harness specifically designed for cats. Harnesses designed for small dogs might be dangerous for a cat to use.
Let your cat familiarize himself with the harness before you strap him in. Gently drape it over his body. Let him sniff and explore it. Then, gently guide his body into the harness and secure the buckle. Some cats may resist, so you might need another person to help restrain your cat.
Allow him to wear the harness for a bit, under supervision, with no leash. Once he seems comfortable in the harness, to the point he's no longer wriggling or attempting to unfasten it, you can secure the leash.
Practice walking your cat around the house for a week or so before taking him outside on the leash. Let him adjust to the restraints and wait until he's no longer pulling or resisting before taking him outside with the leash on.
Once your cat is comfortable being walked inside, practice taking him on short walks around the block. You should be practicing for a few months before you attempt to take your cat to the vet's office. Remember, a vet's office will have a lot of unusual stimulations, such as ringing phones, strange people, and other animals. You need to practice a lot before you can safely take him to the vet's with a harness.
1-3. Try a basket or bed, if your cat is docile.
If your cat is older and particularly docile, you may be able to secure him in a basket or bed. However, this is only a good option if you're sure of your cat's temperament. You do not want to risk the safety of your cat and other people and animals present in the waiting room by having your cat jump out and cause a stir.
Use this method with caution, as even the most docile cats can get spooked in an unfamiliar or frightening environment such as the vet's office.
2. Getting Your Cat Used to the Car
2-1. Start at a young age, if possible.
If you want to take your cat to the vet without a crate, you need to get him used to being in the car without his crate. If you get a cat as a kitten, it's much easier to introduce him to the car.
Kittens tend to adjust to new experiences much faster than adult cats. If possible, start training your cat to travel when he's less than a year old.
If your cat is older, you can still train him to travel in the car safely. It just might take a little more time.
2-2. Introduce your cat to the car gradually.
Slow introductions work best, as a car can be a frightening environment for a cat. Introduce him to the car in intervals.
Bring your cat into the car when it's not running. Keep him calm and give him treats and attention as he adjust to a new environment. Spend a couple of weeks letting him explore the car in short intervals and familiarizing himself with this new territory.
2-3. Practice driving before a vet visit.
Once your cat is used to the car, you should transition into driving with him.
First, try turning on the engine and letting him get used to the noises it makes.
After he's used to the engine, practice short drives. Even driving the car around the block is enough. As your cat adjust to being in the car, you can practice longer drives. It's a good idea to do a few test drives to the vet's office to get your cat used to the route before any appointments.
Use positive reinforcement in the form of treats and praise throughout the process.
2-4. Take safety precautions.
Even the most calm cats can cause problems in the car if frightened. Alternatives to carriers, like bags or baskets, can be used to secure a cat so he does not cause problems for you driving. You can also have a harness or strap to safely secure him to the seat. You do not want your cat to crawl under your feet or the break/gas pedal while you're driving as this could easily cause an accident.
2-5. Get your cat used to public transportation.
If you do not have a car, you'll need to get your cat used to public transportation before you take him to the vet's office. You can practice short trips on a bus, train, or subway. However, understand the vast majority of public transportation options in a city require that your cat be contained in some kind of crate or bag. You probably cannot bring your cat on a subway, for example, with just a harness or in a basket without a lid. If that's how you plan to keep your cat secure at the vet's office, you might want to take a cab or ask a friend for a ride.
3. Understanding the Risks
3-1. Understand vets dislike cats coming in without carriers.
Veterinarians and their staff generally dislike it when people bring cats into their offices without carriers. Understand you'll be met with some resistance if you make the decision to take your cat in without a crate.
Bringing your cat in without a carrier, especially if he's not secured in something like a sport's bag, puts a lot of unnecessary pressure on the staff. Workers in the waiting room have to take extra precautions to make sure your pet is safe and is not injured by dogs or other animals. Also be aware the clinic cannot guarantee your cat's safety when not in a box. For example, a dog off lead may enter the waiting area who likes to chase cats, and bounds at your cat, who may then get injured.
Some vets may actually require cats to be in a carrier. You might want to call ahead and ask first before bringing your cat in without one.
3-2. Know the safety features carriers provide.
Carriers are recommended by veterinarians for a reason. Understand a carrier has several safety features important for your cat.
Carriers ensure a safe car ride by making sure your cat does not roam around the car, causing an accident by interfering with your driving.
Cats are likely to run away when they're frightened. If your cat bolts out the car door, he might be difficult to find. Vet's offices are generally in areas where there area lot of cars. This could prove dangerous for your cat.
Even if your cat is docile, you can't necessarily predict the behavior of other animals. Many dogs are not friendly with cats and your cat is better off secure inside a carrier if a dog gets aggressive.
3-3. Find ways to make a carrier less stressful.
If you're mainly opposed to using a carrier due to worries over stress, there are measures you can take to make a carrier less stressful for your cat.
Do not just take the carrier out when it's time for a vet visit. Leave it open and out in the living room. Cats are den animals and they may actually enjoy sleeping in their carriers from time to time.
Take your cat on short rides in his carrier now and again. A ride around the block in his carrier will make going to the vet less jarring.
As with a sports bag, you can make a carrier more comfortable by putting treats, toys, and other items your cat enjoys inside the crate with him.
Tips
Always call your vet ahead of time if you plan to bring your cat in without a carrier. You want to make sure your vet allows this.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:58:48",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Securing the Cat Without a Carrier\\n1-1. Try a sports bag.\\nYou need to make sure your cat is not disruptive in the vet's office. Simply carrying your cat in your arms can pose a problem, as cats are hard to secure when frightened. If you don't want to use a carrier or don't have one, one alternative is a sports bag.\\nSports bags are bags designed to carry clothing and other equipment to and from the gym or other sporting events. Many sports bags have nylon material lining the sides, filled with holes that allow for a cat to breathe easy through the bag.\\nOwners who feel carriers are uncomfortable for cats sometimes use a sports bag made from nylon to carry their cat and from the vet. Make sure you find a sports bag with at least some nylon or mesh sides so your cat can breathe and see his environment when being transported to the vet's office.\\nYou also want a sports bag with a secure, flat solid bottom. A bottom that is not supported will sink in when you pick up the bag, causing discomfort for your cat.\\nMany owners equip sports bags with toys, blankets, and other items their cat might find comforting.\\n1-2. Use a harness.\\nA cat harness is a device owners use to walk their cats. If you want to take your cat to the vet without a carrier, you could consider using a harness.\\nMake sure you purchase a harness specifically designed for cats. Harnesses designed for small dogs might be dangerous for a cat to use.\\nLet your cat familiarize himself with the harness before you strap him in. Gently drape it over his body. Let him sniff and explore it. Then, gently guide his body into the harness and secure the buckle. Some cats may resist, so you might need another person to help restrain your cat.\\nAllow him to wear the harness for a bit, under supervision, with no leash. Once he seems comfortable in the harness, to the point he's no longer wriggling or attempting to unfasten it, you can secure the leash.\\nPractice walking your cat around the house for a week or so before taking him outside on the leash. Let him adjust to the restraints and wait until he's no longer pulling or resisting before taking him outside with the leash on.\\nOnce your cat is comfortable being walked inside, practice taking him on short walks around the block. You should be practicing for a few months before you attempt to take your cat to the vet's office. Remember, a vet's office will have a lot of unusual stimulations, such as ringing phones, strange people, and other animals. You need to practice a lot before you can safely take him to the vet's with a harness.\\n1-3. Try a basket or bed, if your cat is docile.\\nIf your cat is older and particularly docile, you may be able to secure him in a basket or bed. However, this is only a good option if you're sure of your cat's temperament. You do not want to risk the safety of your cat and other people and animals present in the waiting room by having your cat jump out and cause a stir.\\nUse this method with caution, as even the most docile cats can get spooked in an unfamiliar or frightening environment such as the vet's office.\\n2. Getting Your Cat Used to the Car\\n2-1. Start at a young age, if possible.\\nIf you want to take your cat to the vet without a crate, you need to get him used to being in the car without his crate. If you get a cat as a kitten, it's much easier to introduce him to the car.\\nKittens tend to adjust to new experiences much faster than adult cats. If possible, start training your cat to travel when he's less than a year old.\\nIf your cat is older, you can still train him to travel in the car safely. It just might take a little more time.\\n2-2. Introduce your cat to the car gradually.\\nSlow introductions work best, as a car can be a frightening environment for a cat. Introduce him to the car in intervals.\\nBring your cat into the car when it's not running. Keep him calm and give him treats and attention as he adjust to a new environment. Spend a couple of weeks letting him explore the car in short intervals and familiarizing himself with this new territory.\\n2-3. Practice driving before a vet visit.\\nOnce your cat is used to the car, you should transition into driving with him.\\nFirst, try turning on the engine and letting him get used to the noises it makes.\\nAfter he's used to the engine, practice short drives. Even driving the car around the block is enough. As your cat adjust to being in the car, you can practice longer drives. It's a good idea to do a few test drives to the vet's office to get your cat used to the route before any appointments.\\nUse positive reinforcement in the form of treats and praise throughout the process.\\n2-4. Take safety precautions.\\nEven the most calm cats can cause problems in the car if frightened. Alternatives to carriers, like bags or baskets, can be used to secure a cat so he does not cause problems for you driving. You can also have a harness or strap to safely secure him to the seat. You do not want your cat to crawl under your feet or the break/gas pedal while you're driving as this could easily cause an accident.\\n2-5. Get your cat used to public transportation.\\nIf you do not have a car, you'll need to get your cat used to public transportation before you take him to the vet's office. You can practice short trips on a bus, train, or subway. However, understand the vast majority of public transportation options in a city require that your cat be contained in some kind of crate or bag. You probably cannot bring your cat on a subway, for example, with just a harness or in a basket without a lid. If that's how you plan to keep your cat secure at the vet's office, you might want to take a cab or ask a friend for a ride.\\n3. Understanding the Risks\\n3-1. Understand vets dislike cats coming in without carriers.\\nVeterinarians and their staff generally dislike it when people bring cats into their offices without carriers. Understand you'll be met with some resistance if you make the decision to take your cat in without a crate.\\nBringing your cat in without a carrier, especially if he's not secured in something like a sport's bag, puts a lot of unnecessary pressure on the staff. Workers in the waiting room have to take extra precautions to make sure your pet is safe and is not injured by dogs or other animals. Also be aware the clinic cannot guarantee your cat's safety when not in a box. For example, a dog off lead may enter the waiting area who likes to chase cats, and bounds at your cat, who may then get injured.\\nSome vets may actually require cats to be in a carrier. You might want to call ahead and ask first before bringing your cat in without one.\\n3-2. Know the safety features carriers provide.\\nCarriers are recommended by veterinarians for a reason. Understand a carrier has several safety features important for your cat.\\nCarriers ensure a safe car ride by making sure your cat does not roam around the car, causing an accident by interfering with your driving.\\nCats are likely to run away when they're frightened. If your cat bolts out the car door, he might be difficult to find. Vet's offices are generally in areas where there area lot of cars. This could prove dangerous for your cat.\\nEven if your cat is docile, you can't necessarily predict the behavior of other animals. Many dogs are not friendly with cats and your cat is better off secure inside a carrier if a dog gets aggressive.\\n3-3. Find ways to make a carrier less stressful.\\nIf you're mainly opposed to using a carrier due to worries over stress, there are measures you can take to make a carrier less stressful for your cat.\\nDo not just take the carrier out when it's time for a vet visit. Leave it open and out in the living room. Cats are den animals and they may actually enjoy sleeping in their carriers from time to time.\\nTake your cat on short rides in his carrier now and again. A ride around the block in his carrier will make going to the vet less jarring.\\nAs with a sports bag, you can make a carrier more comfortable by putting treats, toys, and other items your cat enjoys inside the crate with him.\\nTips\\nAlways call your vet ahead of time if you plan to bring your cat in without a carrier. You want to make sure your vet allows this.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"You will need to take your cat to the vet for regular check-ups and in the event he gets sick. If you want to spare your cat the stress of a carrier, you have several options to do so. While not using a carrier can be more comfortable for your cat, many vets dislike having cats in their office without a crate and it can be a safety issue if your cat is not properly trained. Ask your vet whether they require you to use a carrier.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Securing the Cat Without a Carrier\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Try a sports bag.\", \"描述\": \"You need to make sure your cat is not disruptive in the vet's office. Simply carrying your cat in your arms can pose a problem, as cats are hard to secure when frightened. If you don't want to use a carrier or don't have one, one alternative is a sports bag.\\nSports bags are bags designed to carry clothing and other equipment to and from the gym or other sporting events. Many sports bags have nylon material lining the sides, filled with holes that allow for a cat to breathe easy through the bag.\\nOwners who feel carriers are uncomfortable for cats sometimes use a sports bag made from nylon to carry their cat and from the vet. Make sure you find a sports bag with at least some nylon or mesh sides so your cat can breathe and see his environment when being transported to the vet's office.\\nYou also want a sports bag with a secure, flat solid bottom. A bottom that is not supported will sink in when you pick up the bag, causing discomfort for your cat.\\nMany owners equip sports bags with toys, blankets, and other items their cat might find comforting.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Use a harness.\", \"描述\": \"A cat harness is a device owners use to walk their cats. If you want to take your cat to the vet without a carrier, you could consider using a harness.\\nMake sure you purchase a harness specifically designed for cats. Harnesses designed for small dogs might be dangerous for a cat to use.\\nLet your cat familiarize himself with the harness before you strap him in. Gently drape it over his body. Let him sniff and explore it. Then, gently guide his body into the harness and secure the buckle. Some cats may resist, so you might need another person to help restrain your cat.\\nAllow him to wear the harness for a bit, under supervision, with no leash. Once he seems comfortable in the harness, to the point he's no longer wriggling or attempting to unfasten it, you can secure the leash.\\nPractice walking your cat around the house for a week or so before taking him outside on the leash. Let him adjust to the restraints and wait until he's no longer pulling or resisting before taking him outside with the leash on.\\nOnce your cat is comfortable being walked inside, practice taking him on short walks around the block. You should be practicing for a few months before you attempt to take your cat to the vet's office. Remember, a vet's office will have a lot of unusual stimulations, such as ringing phones, strange people, and other animals. You need to practice a lot before you can safely take him to the vet's with a harness.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Try a basket or bed, if your cat is docile.\", \"描述\": \"If your cat is older and particularly docile, you may be able to secure him in a basket or bed. However, this is only a good option if you're sure of your cat's temperament. You do not want to risk the safety of your cat and other people and animals present in the waiting room by having your cat jump out and cause a stir.\\nUse this method with caution, as even the most docile cats can get spooked in an unfamiliar or frightening environment such as the vet's office.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Getting Your Cat Used to the Car\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Start at a young age, if possible.\", \"描述\": \"If you want to take your cat to the vet without a crate, you need to get him used to being in the car without his crate. If you get a cat as a kitten, it's much easier to introduce him to the car.\\nKittens tend to adjust to new experiences much faster than adult cats. If possible, start training your cat to travel when he's less than a year old.\\nIf your cat is older, you can still train him to travel in the car safely. It just might take a little more time.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Introduce your cat to the car gradually.\", \"描述\": \"Slow introductions work best, as a car can be a frightening environment for a cat. Introduce him to the car in intervals.\\nBring your cat into the car when it's not running. Keep him calm and give him treats and attention as he adjust to a new environment. Spend a couple of weeks letting him explore the car in short intervals and familiarizing himself with this new territory.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Practice driving before a vet visit.\", \"描述\": \"Once your cat is used to the car, you should transition into driving with him.\\nFirst, try turning on the engine and letting him get used to the noises it makes.\\nAfter he's used to the engine, practice short drives. Even driving the car around the block is enough. As your cat adjust to being in the car, you can practice longer drives. It's a good idea to do a few test drives to the vet's office to get your cat used to the route before any appointments.\\nUse positive reinforcement in the form of treats and praise throughout the process.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Take safety precautions.\", \"描述\": \"Even the most calm cats can cause problems in the car if frightened. Alternatives to carriers, like bags or baskets, can be used to secure a cat so he does not cause problems for you driving. You can also have a harness or strap to safely secure him to the seat. You do not want your cat to crawl under your feet or the break/gas pedal while you're driving as this could easily cause an accident.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Get your cat used to public transportation.\", \"描述\": \"If you do not have a car, you'll need to get your cat used to public transportation before you take him to the vet's office. You can practice short trips on a bus, train, or subway. However, understand the vast majority of public transportation options in a city require that your cat be contained in some kind of crate or bag. You probably cannot bring your cat on a subway, for example, with just a harness or in a basket without a lid. If that's how you plan to keep your cat secure at the vet's office, you might want to take a cab or ask a friend for a ride.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Understanding the Risks\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Understand vets dislike cats coming in without carriers.\", \"描述\": \"Veterinarians and their staff generally dislike it when people bring cats into their offices without carriers. Understand you'll be met with some resistance if you make the decision to take your cat in without a crate.\\nBringing your cat in without a carrier, especially if he's not secured in something like a sport's bag, puts a lot of unnecessary pressure on the staff. Workers in the waiting room have to take extra precautions to make sure your pet is safe and is not injured by dogs or other animals. Also be aware the clinic cannot guarantee your cat's safety when not in a box. For example, a dog off lead may enter the waiting area who likes to chase cats, and bounds at your cat, who may then get injured.\\nSome vets may actually require cats to be in a carrier. You might want to call ahead and ask first before bringing your cat in without one.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Know the safety features carriers provide.\", \"描述\": \"Carriers are recommended by veterinarians for a reason. Understand a carrier has several safety features important for your cat.\\nCarriers ensure a safe car ride by making sure your cat does not roam around the car, causing an accident by interfering with your driving.\\nCats are likely to run away when they're frightened. If your cat bolts out the car door, he might be difficult to find. Vet's offices are generally in areas where there area lot of cars. This could prove dangerous for your cat.\\nEven if your cat is docile, you can't necessarily predict the behavior of other animals. Many dogs are not friendly with cats and your cat is better off secure inside a carrier if a dog gets aggressive.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Find ways to make a carrier less stressful.\", \"描述\": \"If you're mainly opposed to using a carrier due to worries over stress, there are measures you can take to make a carrier less stressful for your cat.\\nDo not just take the carrier out when it's time for a vet visit. Leave it open and out in the living room. Cats are den animals and they may actually enjoy sleeping in their carriers from time to time.\\nTake your cat on short rides in his carrier now and again. A ride around the block in his carrier will make going to the vet less jarring.\\nAs with a sports bag, you can make a carrier more comfortable by putting treats, toys, and other items your cat enjoys inside the crate with him.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Always call your vet ahead of time if you plan to bring your cat in without a carrier. You want to make sure your vet allows this.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,014 |
How to Bring Your Grade Up when You Are Failing a Class
|
1. Changing Your Habits at Home
1-1. Make a plan.
You may be failing due to poor time management. In order to change your grade, you need to introduce more effective time management skills into your life. If you want to bring up your grade, you need to work hard to get all your work done and still have time to study. To do this, lay out the assignments in all of your classes for the rest of the semester. Also lay out any other obligations, such as work, after school activities, or social engagements. Mark each event on the calendar starting with the most important. This should be the work for the class you are failing. Then fill in the rest. This way, you will know exactly what you need to do and how long you have to do it.
If your work overlaps too much, try to rearrange your schedule with your boss. Explain what the problem is and see if anyone would be willing to switch shifts with you.
You may need to sacrifice some of your obligations. Being over-committed to projects can cause you to fail. You can't skip assignments in other classes, but if it is a school activity or social engagement, you may not be able to do it if you are serious about bringing up your grade.
1-2. Start assignments right away.
People sometimes fail because they get stuck on one assignment. Once they get stuck, they put off the work and don't revisit it until it is too late. Procrastination is not an option when you are trying to bring up your grades. When your teacher hands out an assignment, start on it right away. If you wait to the last minute, you are not going to be putting 100% into your work and you will not get a good grade. This will also help you if you get stuck on an assignment. Once you get stuck, you can ask for help from a librarian or teacher.
If you have a paper, start your research right away. You will be able to find more in depth research. This will allow you to make much better arguments if you are ready with scholarship on your topic. Also focus on scholarly sources. The better information you have, the better your paper will be.
If you have a project, start working on the components of it as soon as possible. The more hard work you put into an assignment, the better your grade will be.
1-3. Study hard.
The only way to bring up a failing grade is to make better grades on the other assignments. This starts with studying at home. You can't learn the information if you don't study it, so try to commit time each night to studying. Turn off distractions such as phones, laptops, TVs, or music. The more focused you are, the more work you will get done and the more information you will retain.
When you read for class, make notes about the readings as you do them. This way, you won't have to redo the readings later when it is time for the exam. This may take a little more time as you go, but you will be ready when exam time comes. This will help you make a better grade.
About two weeks before a test, start to review your materials. Read and reread your notes. Make yourself flash cards of the material. If you find that you are having problem spots on certain topics, spend extra time on those sections.
If you're prepping for a math test, take some time to review your notes and highlight the most important vocabulary and topics.
1-4. Create a study group.
When a test is coming up, find some people from your class that you can study with. Each of you can help each other study and engage with the material better than you can on your own. Prepare material before you meet and then, when you come together, be prepared to quiz each other, go over problem areas, and review the material most likely to be on the test.
Try to include someone who is passing the class you are failing. They are more likely to understand the information. They will also be able to answer questions you have.
You can make games out of the material you need to cover to make it fun and more engaging. Try using a board game and flashcards to mix up how you learn the materials.
1-5. Do your homework.
Since homework is often graded, you should be doing every bit of homework to ensure that your grade is as high as possible. Doing homework is also one of the best ways to stay current with the material you are learning in class. Don't let it pile up. If you get backed up, you will miss needed information for tests and other assignments. The more backed up you are, the less new material you will understand. This could be the reason you failed assignments in the past. You also will learn the information as it comes and not have to worry as much about cramming to learn all the information for the test the night before.
If you have questions as you do your homework, it helps to jot them down as they come. That way, you can ask your teacher as soon as you see them again and figure out what you don't understand.
Try to start your homework as soon as you get home from school. Homework is typically a large part of your grade, so you want to make sure you complete it. Plus, the earlier you do it, the more engaged and awake you will be. If you wait to right before you go to sleep to do it, you will likely be more distracted and tired, which will cause you to do sub par work and retain less information.
2. Doing More at School
2-1. Hand in any missing work.
If you have any work that you forgot to hand in, submit it as soon as possible. Your teacher may accept any late papers, though you may not get full credit for whatever you handed in late.
2-2. Talk to your teacher.
You might be failing because you don't respond well to a certain teaching method. If you are having trouble with a teacher, let them know that you aren't responding to the way they are teaching something. They may be able to help you understand it in a different way. You should also talk to them if you just don't understand the material overall. Find out when they are available and ask for a meeting with them. Ask them questions such as, "I am having a hard time understanding the information in this class. Can you help me understand?" They are the authority on the subject and can help you with the material that is giving you a hard time.
They can also help you come up with ways to study for the next exam or ideas for your next paper. They also may be able to give you more notes or readings that will help you figure it out.
Make sure you don't depend on your teacher to provide you with a step by step guide on what is on the exams. You need to show effort and understanding or you could fail other classes in the future.
Feel free to ask questions both during and after class, if you need to.
2-3. Ask about extra credit.
A good way to bring your grade up is to do extra credit assignments. This can give you more points on an assignment that you failed. It can also give you an extra grade that will help bring up your overall average. Ask them your teacher, "Is there any way to do an extra credit assignment? I have been working hard to bring my grade up and I would like a little help." If they see you are serious about bringing your grade up, they might be more inclined to give you an extra credit assignment to help bring up your failing grade.
You can also ask if there is a way to redo an assignment, especially if you understand the concepts better now. Say something like, "I had a hard time on the last assignment we got back. I understand it much better now that I have gotten some help and studied more. Is there a way that I can redo it?"
2-4. Get organized.
You could be failing because you can't keep up with your assignments and are missing grades. This will bring your overall average down. When you have multiple classes, your notes and handouts can get mixed up. This can lead you to miss information, which can cause you to fail a class. Make a folder for the class you are failing. Keep the necessary notes and worksheets together in a color folder so you never lose papers. Put any papers from that class into the folder every day. This way, you won't miss anything and can keep up with the classwork.
If you are more organized, you will be more efficient when you study. Not having to flip through tons of papers scattered throughout your bags will help you streamline the process and have more time to study on the material that is giving you trouble.
2-5. Go to every class session.
Missing class often is a major cause of failing grades. You get behind and cannot catch up. If you miss school or class often, you will not know what the teacher wants you to learn. You also won't understand their expectations for assignments and tests. This can cause a failing grade. Even missing one class can hurt you because you will miss a lot of necessary information for upcoming tests. This will not help you bring up your grade.
If you have to miss class for an illness or school event, make sure you get notes from a fellow classmate. so you will be sure to get any necessary information that you missed while you weren't there.
2-6. Pay attention in class.
Getting distracted can cause you to fall behind in class and fail assignments. In order to pull your grade up, you have to pay attention in class. Just because you are in class doesn't mean you are mentally present in class. Make sure your mind is present in class. You need to be ready to learn and retain the information. This will help you do better on future assignments, which will bring up your grade.
Make sure you ask questions in class. Whenever your teacher is going over something that you don't quite understand, ask them, "Can you go over that again? I didn't understand it." If you don't, you might get behind and miss a lot of important information that is needed for the next test.
The more engaged you are during the class session, the more focused you will be on the material. This will help you be more prepared for the assignments and make better grades on them, which will help you get a higher grade.
2-7. Take extensive notes.
You may be failing a class because you don't know the information needed to pass the assignments in the class. When your teacher talks about the material in class, write it down. Try to mark or indicate which concepts are discussed more than others because those are the ones you are likely to be tested on. If your teacher tells you that something is going to be on the test, mark that in your notes so you know to study that area extra hard.
If you find your mind wanders when you write notes, try writing them in cool colors or changing colors every few sentences. This will keep your mind engaged on the material and also make your notes look more interesting when you review them later.
Try to get a planner to write down when certain works are due. This may help prevent you from forgetting any work, which would bring down your grade.
Don't stress about the structure or handwriting of your notes. Just get all the information down so you can refer back to it later.
During math class, try to write your notes in simple, digestible steps that are easy to review later.
2-8. Take your learning further.
One reason you have been failing may be because you only understand the content in certain situations. You need to be able to apply whatever you are learning to the larger picture. If you only understand the information in one way, you cannot translate it to other situations. This will cause you to miss questions on exams and do poorly on papers because you can't think critically about the information.
2-9. Get peer tutoring.
Check to see if your school has a peer tutoring program. In these programs, students that are studying the same material are there to help you work through the assignments and learn the materials. The major benefit of this is that they are on the same level as you and are working on the same assignments. This will make it easier for them to help you with the questions you have.
If you are intimidated by your teacher, you may be more comfortable asking for help from a peer tutor. Try asking them, "Can you help me understand this material? I'm failing but trying to bring my grade up." You can also ask them any questions that you have about your upcoming assignments.
2-10. Know the weight of assignments.
Some teachers make a test worth more than a homework assignment. For instance, say you get a D on an algebra test and a D on an inequality worksheet. Some teachers will put in one D for the worksheet and D's for the test. Some, on the other hand, will just give you one D on the worksheet and one D on the test.
Tips
Take advantage of every opportunity to raise your grade; do any extra credit work, and answer bonus questions on quizzes, tests, and exams. Doing this extra work will help you bring up your grade, even if it's only by a few points.
Pay good attention to the teacher and don't mess around with your friends in class.
Talk to your parents/ guardians. They were in school so they will know what you are talking about and may come up with solutions that worked on them.
Warnings
Don't try to bring distractions to class such as toys or games because then you won't be able to concentrate in class and listen to instructions.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:58:48",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Changing Your Habits at Home\\n1-1. Make a plan.\\nYou may be failing due to poor time management. In order to change your grade, you need to introduce more effective time management skills into your life. If you want to bring up your grade, you need to work hard to get all your work done and still have time to study. To do this, lay out the assignments in all of your classes for the rest of the semester. Also lay out any other obligations, such as work, after school activities, or social engagements. Mark each event on the calendar starting with the most important. This should be the work for the class you are failing. Then fill in the rest. This way, you will know exactly what you need to do and how long you have to do it.\\nIf your work overlaps too much, try to rearrange your schedule with your boss. Explain what the problem is and see if anyone would be willing to switch shifts with you.\\nYou may need to sacrifice some of your obligations. Being over-committed to projects can cause you to fail. You can't skip assignments in other classes, but if it is a school activity or social engagement, you may not be able to do it if you are serious about bringing up your grade.\\n1-2. Start assignments right away.\\nPeople sometimes fail because they get stuck on one assignment. Once they get stuck, they put off the work and don't revisit it until it is too late. Procrastination is not an option when you are trying to bring up your grades. When your teacher hands out an assignment, start on it right away. If you wait to the last minute, you are not going to be putting 100% into your work and you will not get a good grade. This will also help you if you get stuck on an assignment. Once you get stuck, you can ask for help from a librarian or teacher.\\nIf you have a paper, start your research right away. You will be able to find more in depth research. This will allow you to make much better arguments if you are ready with scholarship on your topic. Also focus on scholarly sources. The better information you have, the better your paper will be.\\nIf you have a project, start working on the components of it as soon as possible. The more hard work you put into an assignment, the better your grade will be.\\n1-3. Study hard.\\nThe only way to bring up a failing grade is to make better grades on the other assignments. This starts with studying at home. You can't learn the information if you don't study it, so try to commit time each night to studying. Turn off distractions such as phones, laptops, TVs, or music. The more focused you are, the more work you will get done and the more information you will retain.\\nWhen you read for class, make notes about the readings as you do them. This way, you won't have to redo the readings later when it is time for the exam. This may take a little more time as you go, but you will be ready when exam time comes. This will help you make a better grade.\\nAbout two weeks before a test, start to review your materials. Read and reread your notes. Make yourself flash cards of the material. If you find that you are having problem spots on certain topics, spend extra time on those sections.\\nIf you're prepping for a math test, take some time to review your notes and highlight the most important vocabulary and topics.\\n1-4. Create a study group.\\nWhen a test is coming up, find some people from your class that you can study with. Each of you can help each other study and engage with the material better than you can on your own. Prepare material before you meet and then, when you come together, be prepared to quiz each other, go over problem areas, and review the material most likely to be on the test.\\nTry to include someone who is passing the class you are failing. They are more likely to understand the information. They will also be able to answer questions you have.\\nYou can make games out of the material you need to cover to make it fun and more engaging. Try using a board game and flashcards to mix up how you learn the materials.\\n1-5. Do your homework.\\nSince homework is often graded, you should be doing every bit of homework to ensure that your grade is as high as possible. Doing homework is also one of the best ways to stay current with the material you are learning in class. Don't let it pile up. If you get backed up, you will miss needed information for tests and other assignments. The more backed up you are, the less new material you will understand. This could be the reason you failed assignments in the past. You also will learn the information as it comes and not have to worry as much about cramming to learn all the information for the test the night before.\\nIf you have questions as you do your homework, it helps to jot them down as they come. That way, you can ask your teacher as soon as you see them again and figure out what you don't understand.\\nTry to start your homework as soon as you get home from school. Homework is typically a large part of your grade, so you want to make sure you complete it. Plus, the earlier you do it, the more engaged and awake you will be. If you wait to right before you go to sleep to do it, you will likely be more distracted and tired, which will cause you to do sub par work and retain less information.\\n2. Doing More at School\\n2-1. Hand in any missing work.\\nIf you have any work that you forgot to hand in, submit it as soon as possible. Your teacher may accept any late papers, though you may not get full credit for whatever you handed in late.\\n2-2. Talk to your teacher.\\nYou might be failing because you don't respond well to a certain teaching method. If you are having trouble with a teacher, let them know that you aren't responding to the way they are teaching something. They may be able to help you understand it in a different way. You should also talk to them if you just don't understand the material overall. Find out when they are available and ask for a meeting with them. Ask them questions such as, \\\"I am having a hard time understanding the information in this class. Can you help me understand?\\\" They are the authority on the subject and can help you with the material that is giving you a hard time.\\nThey can also help you come up with ways to study for the next exam or ideas for your next paper. They also may be able to give you more notes or readings that will help you figure it out.\\nMake sure you don't depend on your teacher to provide you with a step by step guide on what is on the exams. You need to show effort and understanding or you could fail other classes in the future.\\nFeel free to ask questions both during and after class, if you need to.\\n2-3. Ask about extra credit.\\nA good way to bring your grade up is to do extra credit assignments. This can give you more points on an assignment that you failed. It can also give you an extra grade that will help bring up your overall average. Ask them your teacher, \\\"Is there any way to do an extra credit assignment? I have been working hard to bring my grade up and I would like a little help.\\\" If they see you are serious about bringing your grade up, they might be more inclined to give you an extra credit assignment to help bring up your failing grade.\\nYou can also ask if there is a way to redo an assignment, especially if you understand the concepts better now. Say something like, \\\"I had a hard time on the last assignment we got back. I understand it much better now that I have gotten some help and studied more. Is there a way that I can redo it?\\\"\\n2-4. Get organized.\\nYou could be failing because you can't keep up with your assignments and are missing grades. This will bring your overall average down. When you have multiple classes, your notes and handouts can get mixed up. This can lead you to miss information, which can cause you to fail a class. Make a folder for the class you are failing. Keep the necessary notes and worksheets together in a color folder so you never lose papers. Put any papers from that class into the folder every day. This way, you won't miss anything and can keep up with the classwork.\\nIf you are more organized, you will be more efficient when you study. Not having to flip through tons of papers scattered throughout your bags will help you streamline the process and have more time to study on the material that is giving you trouble.\\n2-5. Go to every class session.\\nMissing class often is a major cause of failing grades. You get behind and cannot catch up. If you miss school or class often, you will not know what the teacher wants you to learn. You also won't understand their expectations for assignments and tests. This can cause a failing grade. Even missing one class can hurt you because you will miss a lot of necessary information for upcoming tests. This will not help you bring up your grade. \\nIf you have to miss class for an illness or school event, make sure you get notes from a fellow classmate. so you will be sure to get any necessary information that you missed while you weren't there.\\n2-6. Pay attention in class.\\nGetting distracted can cause you to fall behind in class and fail assignments. In order to pull your grade up, you have to pay attention in class. Just because you are in class doesn't mean you are mentally present in class. Make sure your mind is present in class. You need to be ready to learn and retain the information. This will help you do better on future assignments, which will bring up your grade.\\nMake sure you ask questions in class. Whenever your teacher is going over something that you don't quite understand, ask them, \\\"Can you go over that again? I didn't understand it.\\\" If you don't, you might get behind and miss a lot of important information that is needed for the next test.\\nThe more engaged you are during the class session, the more focused you will be on the material. This will help you be more prepared for the assignments and make better grades on them, which will help you get a higher grade.\\n2-7. Take extensive notes.\\nYou may be failing a class because you don't know the information needed to pass the assignments in the class. When your teacher talks about the material in class, write it down. Try to mark or indicate which concepts are discussed more than others because those are the ones you are likely to be tested on. If your teacher tells you that something is going to be on the test, mark that in your notes so you know to study that area extra hard.\\nIf you find your mind wanders when you write notes, try writing them in cool colors or changing colors every few sentences. This will keep your mind engaged on the material and also make your notes look more interesting when you review them later.\\nTry to get a planner to write down when certain works are due. This may help prevent you from forgetting any work, which would bring down your grade.\\nDon't stress about the structure or handwriting of your notes. Just get all the information down so you can refer back to it later. \\nDuring math class, try to write your notes in simple, digestible steps that are easy to review later.\\n2-8. Take your learning further.\\nOne reason you have been failing may be because you only understand the content in certain situations. You need to be able to apply whatever you are learning to the larger picture. If you only understand the information in one way, you cannot translate it to other situations. This will cause you to miss questions on exams and do poorly on papers because you can't think critically about the information.\\n2-9. Get peer tutoring.\\nCheck to see if your school has a peer tutoring program. In these programs, students that are studying the same material are there to help you work through the assignments and learn the materials. The major benefit of this is that they are on the same level as you and are working on the same assignments. This will make it easier for them to help you with the questions you have.\\nIf you are intimidated by your teacher, you may be more comfortable asking for help from a peer tutor. Try asking them, \\\"Can you help me understand this material? I'm failing but trying to bring my grade up.\\\" You can also ask them any questions that you have about your upcoming assignments.\\n2-10. Know the weight of assignments.\\nSome teachers make a test worth more than a homework assignment. For instance, say you get a D on an algebra test and a D on an inequality worksheet. Some teachers will put in one D for the worksheet and D's for the test. Some, on the other hand, will just give you one D on the worksheet and one D on the test.\\nTips\\nTake advantage of every opportunity to raise your grade; do any extra credit work, and answer bonus questions on quizzes, tests, and exams. Doing this extra work will help you bring up your grade, even if it's only by a few points.\\nPay good attention to the teacher and don't mess around with your friends in class.\\nTalk to your parents/ guardians. They were in school so they will know what you are talking about and may come up with solutions that worked on them.\\nWarnings\\nDon't try to bring distractions to class such as toys or games because then you won't be able to concentrate in class and listen to instructions.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Are you failing a class and you don't know what to do? It happens to a lot of people, so don't be discouraged. Through working hard, studying, and concentrating on the materials, you can bring up a failing grade.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Changing Your Habits at Home\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Make a plan.\", \"描述\": \"You may be failing due to poor time management. In order to change your grade, you need to introduce more effective time management skills into your life. If you want to bring up your grade, you need to work hard to get all your work done and still have time to study. To do this, lay out the assignments in all of your classes for the rest of the semester. Also lay out any other obligations, such as work, after school activities, or social engagements. Mark each event on the calendar starting with the most important. This should be the work for the class you are failing. Then fill in the rest. This way, you will know exactly what you need to do and how long you have to do it.\\nIf your work overlaps too much, try to rearrange your schedule with your boss. Explain what the problem is and see if anyone would be willing to switch shifts with you.\\nYou may need to sacrifice some of your obligations. Being over-committed to projects can cause you to fail. You can't skip assignments in other classes, but if it is a school activity or social engagement, you may not be able to do it if you are serious about bringing up your grade.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Start assignments right away.\", \"描述\": \"People sometimes fail because they get stuck on one assignment. Once they get stuck, they put off the work and don't revisit it until it is too late. Procrastination is not an option when you are trying to bring up your grades. When your teacher hands out an assignment, start on it right away. If you wait to the last minute, you are not going to be putting 100% into your work and you will not get a good grade. This will also help you if you get stuck on an assignment. Once you get stuck, you can ask for help from a librarian or teacher.\\nIf you have a paper, start your research right away. You will be able to find more in depth research. This will allow you to make much better arguments if you are ready with scholarship on your topic. Also focus on scholarly sources. The better information you have, the better your paper will be.\\nIf you have a project, start working on the components of it as soon as possible. The more hard work you put into an assignment, the better your grade will be.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Study hard.\", \"描述\": \"The only way to bring up a failing grade is to make better grades on the other assignments. This starts with studying at home. You can't learn the information if you don't study it, so try to commit time each night to studying. Turn off distractions such as phones, laptops, TVs, or music. The more focused you are, the more work you will get done and the more information you will retain.\\nWhen you read for class, make notes about the readings as you do them. This way, you won't have to redo the readings later when it is time for the exam. This may take a little more time as you go, but you will be ready when exam time comes. This will help you make a better grade.\\nAbout two weeks before a test, start to review your materials. Read and reread your notes. Make yourself flash cards of the material. If you find that you are having problem spots on certain topics, spend extra time on those sections.\\nIf you're prepping for a math test, take some time to review your notes and highlight the most important vocabulary and topics.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Create a study group.\", \"描述\": \"When a test is coming up, find some people from your class that you can study with. Each of you can help each other study and engage with the material better than you can on your own. Prepare material before you meet and then, when you come together, be prepared to quiz each other, go over problem areas, and review the material most likely to be on the test.\\nTry to include someone who is passing the class you are failing. They are more likely to understand the information. They will also be able to answer questions you have.\\nYou can make games out of the material you need to cover to make it fun and more engaging. Try using a board game and flashcards to mix up how you learn the materials.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Do your homework.\", \"描述\": \"Since homework is often graded, you should be doing every bit of homework to ensure that your grade is as high as possible. Doing homework is also one of the best ways to stay current with the material you are learning in class. Don't let it pile up. If you get backed up, you will miss needed information for tests and other assignments. The more backed up you are, the less new material you will understand. This could be the reason you failed assignments in the past. You also will learn the information as it comes and not have to worry as much about cramming to learn all the information for the test the night before.\\nIf you have questions as you do your homework, it helps to jot them down as they come. That way, you can ask your teacher as soon as you see them again and figure out what you don't understand.\\nTry to start your homework as soon as you get home from school. Homework is typically a large part of your grade, so you want to make sure you complete it. Plus, the earlier you do it, the more engaged and awake you will be. If you wait to right before you go to sleep to do it, you will likely be more distracted and tired, which will cause you to do sub par work and retain less information.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Doing More at School\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Hand in any missing work.\", \"描述\": \"If you have any work that you forgot to hand in, submit it as soon as possible. Your teacher may accept any late papers, though you may not get full credit for whatever you handed in late.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Talk to your teacher.\", \"描述\": \"You might be failing because you don't respond well to a certain teaching method. If you are having trouble with a teacher, let them know that you aren't responding to the way they are teaching something. They may be able to help you understand it in a different way. You should also talk to them if you just don't understand the material overall. Find out when they are available and ask for a meeting with them. Ask them questions such as, \\\"I am having a hard time understanding the information in this class. Can you help me understand?\\\" They are the authority on the subject and can help you with the material that is giving you a hard time.\\nThey can also help you come up with ways to study for the next exam or ideas for your next paper. They also may be able to give you more notes or readings that will help you figure it out.\\nMake sure you don't depend on your teacher to provide you with a step by step guide on what is on the exams. You need to show effort and understanding or you could fail other classes in the future.\\nFeel free to ask questions both during and after class, if you need to.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Ask about extra credit.\", \"描述\": \"A good way to bring your grade up is to do extra credit assignments. This can give you more points on an assignment that you failed. It can also give you an extra grade that will help bring up your overall average. Ask them your teacher, \\\"Is there any way to do an extra credit assignment? I have been working hard to bring my grade up and I would like a little help.\\\" If they see you are serious about bringing your grade up, they might be more inclined to give you an extra credit assignment to help bring up your failing grade.\\nYou can also ask if there is a way to redo an assignment, especially if you understand the concepts better now. Say something like, \\\"I had a hard time on the last assignment we got back. I understand it much better now that I have gotten some help and studied more. Is there a way that I can redo it?\\\"\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Get organized.\", \"描述\": \"You could be failing because you can't keep up with your assignments and are missing grades. This will bring your overall average down. When you have multiple classes, your notes and handouts can get mixed up. This can lead you to miss information, which can cause you to fail a class. Make a folder for the class you are failing. Keep the necessary notes and worksheets together in a color folder so you never lose papers. Put any papers from that class into the folder every day. This way, you won't miss anything and can keep up with the classwork.\\nIf you are more organized, you will be more efficient when you study. Not having to flip through tons of papers scattered throughout your bags will help you streamline the process and have more time to study on the material that is giving you trouble.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Go to every class session.\", \"描述\": \"Missing class often is a major cause of failing grades. You get behind and cannot catch up. If you miss school or class often, you will not know what the teacher wants you to learn. You also won't understand their expectations for assignments and tests. This can cause a failing grade. Even missing one class can hurt you because you will miss a lot of necessary information for upcoming tests. This will not help you bring up your grade. \\nIf you have to miss class for an illness or school event, make sure you get notes from a fellow classmate. so you will be sure to get any necessary information that you missed while you weren't there.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Pay attention in class.\", \"描述\": \"Getting distracted can cause you to fall behind in class and fail assignments. In order to pull your grade up, you have to pay attention in class. Just because you are in class doesn't mean you are mentally present in class. Make sure your mind is present in class. You need to be ready to learn and retain the information. This will help you do better on future assignments, which will bring up your grade.\\nMake sure you ask questions in class. Whenever your teacher is going over something that you don't quite understand, ask them, \\\"Can you go over that again? I didn't understand it.\\\" If you don't, you might get behind and miss a lot of important information that is needed for the next test.\\nThe more engaged you are during the class session, the more focused you will be on the material. This will help you be more prepared for the assignments and make better grades on them, which will help you get a higher grade.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Take extensive notes.\", \"描述\": \"You may be failing a class because you don't know the information needed to pass the assignments in the class. When your teacher talks about the material in class, write it down. Try to mark or indicate which concepts are discussed more than others because those are the ones you are likely to be tested on. If your teacher tells you that something is going to be on the test, mark that in your notes so you know to study that area extra hard.\\nIf you find your mind wanders when you write notes, try writing them in cool colors or changing colors every few sentences. This will keep your mind engaged on the material and also make your notes look more interesting when you review them later.\\nTry to get a planner to write down when certain works are due. This may help prevent you from forgetting any work, which would bring down your grade.\\nDon't stress about the structure or handwriting of your notes. Just get all the information down so you can refer back to it later. \\nDuring math class, try to write your notes in simple, digestible steps that are easy to review later.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Take your learning further.\", \"描述\": \"One reason you have been failing may be because you only understand the content in certain situations. You need to be able to apply whatever you are learning to the larger picture. If you only understand the information in one way, you cannot translate it to other situations. This will cause you to miss questions on exams and do poorly on papers because you can't think critically about the information.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Get peer tutoring.\", \"描述\": \"Check to see if your school has a peer tutoring program. In these programs, students that are studying the same material are there to help you work through the assignments and learn the materials. The major benefit of this is that they are on the same level as you and are working on the same assignments. This will make it easier for them to help you with the questions you have.\\nIf you are intimidated by your teacher, you may be more comfortable asking for help from a peer tutor. Try asking them, \\\"Can you help me understand this material? I'm failing but trying to bring my grade up.\\\" You can also ask them any questions that you have about your upcoming assignments.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Know the weight of assignments.\", \"描述\": \"Some teachers make a test worth more than a homework assignment. For instance, say you get a D on an algebra test and a D on an inequality worksheet. Some teachers will put in one D for the worksheet and D's for the test. Some, on the other hand, will just give you one D on the worksheet and one D on the test.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Take advantage of every opportunity to raise your grade; do any extra credit work, and answer bonus questions on quizzes, tests, and exams. Doing this extra work will help you bring up your grade, even if it's only by a few points.\\n\", \"Pay good attention to the teacher and don't mess around with your friends in class.\\n\", \"Talk to your parents/ guardians. They were in school so they will know what you are talking about and may come up with solutions that worked on them.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Don't try to bring distractions to class such as toys or games because then you won't be able to concentrate in class and listen to instructions.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,015 |
How to Bring Your Parents to the UK
|
1. Meeting the Requirements for Dependent Relatives
1-1. Have permanent status or citizenship.
For your parents to come over, you must be a permanent resident in the U.K. That means that you need to have citizenship, permanent leave to remain, permanent residency, refugee status, or humanitarian protection.
Basically, if you are legally staying in the UK on a semi-permanent basis, you can likely bring your parents over.
1-2. Ensure your parents need long-term care.
The main way you can bring over your parents is if they need assistance with daily care tasks, including household tasks, personal hygiene tasks, and/or medical tasks. Your parents must need this care because of illness, disability, or age.
Also, they must not be able to get this care where they are living right now, which includes not having any relatives there who can provide that support. Exceptions may be made if care is not affordable.
Both parents must apply at the same time if they are both still alive and still married. In other words, if one parent could depend on the other for care, the UK government won't allow just the one parent who needs care to apply. Both parents must need care.
1-3. Save enough money to support your parents for 5 years.
In other words, you'll need to show you have sufficient income to provide continuing support for your relatives. You must not use public funds to provide this support.
Generally, you must prove you can at least meet the threshold of making 18,600 pounds per year, which is the amount where you are not dependent on the state for things like a housing credit or tax credits.
It can help to have money saved. If you need to, try creating a budget to help you put some money back.
2. Applying for a Dependent Relative Visa
2-1. Help your parents gather the basic documents.
They'll need their current passports, as well as any previous passports. Have your parents get 2 passport photos each, which will be used for the visa itself. If they have biometric residence permits, they should provide those, as well.
You can easily get passport photos at most drug stores or big box stores.
2-2. Provide proof of your relationship with a birth certificate.
For proof of relationship, you will need your birth certificate to show they are your parents. Adoption certificates are also a good option.
If you don't have a copy of your birth certificate, you can Get Your Original Birth Certificate request one from the country you were born in. You will need to contact their government.
2-3. Request a health certification from your parents' doctor or health professional.
Your parents must not be able to live on their own, and a doctor or other health professional must certify this. You will need to submit this certification with your parents' application.
If they live in a country where there is tuberculosis, they will also need to send in test results showing they don't have the disease. You can find the list of countries that have this requirement here: https://www.gov.uk/tb-test-visa/countries-where-you-need-a-tb-test-to-enter-the-uk.
2-4. Fill in the application online with biographical information.
Typically, your parents will need to do the application themselves. They will need to fill in basic biographical information like their address and date of birth, as well as things like their passport numbers.
They will also need to add information about you, such as what kind of residency you have, your date of birth, your nationality, and your address.
They can create an account to file at https://www.visa4uk.fco.gov.uk/home/welcome.
2-5. Add more details to your application in the Appendix form.
The Appendix goes more into depth about the type of care your parents need, what kind of care they're getting now, and why they need care from you. They'll also need to add information about your financial status and how you will be able to provide for them.
This form also asks questions about where they will plan to live once they move to the U.K.
3. Finishing the Application
3-1. Send in the required documents by mail.
Once you fill out the application, you can send in the documents through snail mail. The address you need will be listed on the application.
If you don't have the original documents, you must get the copies certified.
3-2. Pay the visa application fee.
The fee for overseas applications for dependent relatives varies by country. However, it typically is over 3,000 pounds as of 2018, so it is fairly costly.
You may need to save for a little while to be able to afford the visa fee.
3-3. File an appeal if your parents are denied entrance.
Your parents have a right to appeal the decision if their visa application is refused. You parents must appeal within 28 days of receiving a refusal letter using the IAFT-6 appeal form, which you can find at https://immigrationappealsonline.justice.gov.uk/IACFees/.
You can find a paper form at https://www.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/688323/iaft-6-eng.pdf.
As of 2017, the fees for an appeal are 80 pounds for a paper hearing or 140 pounds for an oral hearing. For a paper hearing, the appeal is decided on the documents you and your parents provide. For an oral hearing, you or your parents can go and argue the case.
The fees can be waived if you're receiving Legal Aid from a United Kingdom-based legal representative.
3-4. Contact an immigration lawyer if you need one.
If you feel like navigating the process is a bit too much, an immigration lawyer can help. You'll need to find one in the UK to help you through the process, including the appeal.
Start by working with an immigration adviser. There are 3 levels in the UK, where one is for simple cases and 3 is for the most complicated ones. Some advisers work for free, or you may qualify for legal aid, which you can find at https://www.gov.uk/check-legal-aid.
You can find a list of immigration advisers and solicitors at http://home.oisc.gov.uk/register_of_regulated_immigration_advisers/register.aspx.
An immigration lawyer can cost anywhere from 250 pounds to 3,000+ pounds, depending on how much help you need.
Ask your friends if they know of any good immigration lawyers.
Tips
Sometimes, using the Surinder Singh application is easier. With this application, you must still be a UK resident and your parents must still be dependent on you. You also must work in an EEA country for 3 months. The main benefit is sometimes the income requirements are lower. The application process is essentially the same.[17]
X
Trustworthy Source
Official UK government website
Official website for the public sector of the UK government
Go to source
It can help to show you have a closer-than-average bond with your parents, which you can add information about on the Appendix form. Basically, you want to show that you have a close relationship with your parents, not that you just want to bring them to the UK because they're your parents.[18]
X
Research source
Parents can also apply to come to the UK if their children are under 18. However, you won't be able to help with this application if you're underage.[19]
X
Trustworthy Source
Official UK government website
Official website for the public sector of the UK government
Go to source
Warnings
These applications are often denied, even if you do meet the basic criteria. The UK Government would prefer that you pay for care for your parents in their home country. Make sure your parents provide all the information required so that they aren't denied for a technical reason.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:58:48",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Meeting the Requirements for Dependent Relatives\\n1-1. Have permanent status or citizenship.\\nFor your parents to come over, you must be a permanent resident in the U.K. That means that you need to have citizenship, permanent leave to remain, permanent residency, refugee status, or humanitarian protection.\\nBasically, if you are legally staying in the UK on a semi-permanent basis, you can likely bring your parents over.\\n1-2. Ensure your parents need long-term care.\\nThe main way you can bring over your parents is if they need assistance with daily care tasks, including household tasks, personal hygiene tasks, and/or medical tasks. Your parents must need this care because of illness, disability, or age.\\nAlso, they must not be able to get this care where they are living right now, which includes not having any relatives there who can provide that support. Exceptions may be made if care is not affordable.\\nBoth parents must apply at the same time if they are both still alive and still married. In other words, if one parent could depend on the other for care, the UK government won't allow just the one parent who needs care to apply. Both parents must need care.\\n1-3. Save enough money to support your parents for 5 years.\\nIn other words, you'll need to show you have sufficient income to provide continuing support for your relatives. You must not use public funds to provide this support.\\nGenerally, you must prove you can at least meet the threshold of making 18,600 pounds per year, which is the amount where you are not dependent on the state for things like a housing credit or tax credits.\\nIt can help to have money saved. If you need to, try creating a budget to help you put some money back.\\n2. Applying for a Dependent Relative Visa\\n2-1. Help your parents gather the basic documents.\\nThey'll need their current passports, as well as any previous passports. Have your parents get 2 passport photos each, which will be used for the visa itself. If they have biometric residence permits, they should provide those, as well.\\nYou can easily get passport photos at most drug stores or big box stores.\\n2-2. Provide proof of your relationship with a birth certificate.\\nFor proof of relationship, you will need your birth certificate to show they are your parents. Adoption certificates are also a good option.\\nIf you don't have a copy of your birth certificate, you can Get Your Original Birth Certificate request one from the country you were born in. You will need to contact their government.\\n2-3. Request a health certification from your parents' doctor or health professional.\\nYour parents must not be able to live on their own, and a doctor or other health professional must certify this. You will need to submit this certification with your parents' application.\\nIf they live in a country where there is tuberculosis, they will also need to send in test results showing they don't have the disease. You can find the list of countries that have this requirement here: https://www.gov.uk/tb-test-visa/countries-where-you-need-a-tb-test-to-enter-the-uk.\\n2-4. Fill in the application online with biographical information.\\nTypically, your parents will need to do the application themselves. They will need to fill in basic biographical information like their address and date of birth, as well as things like their passport numbers.\\nThey will also need to add information about you, such as what kind of residency you have, your date of birth, your nationality, and your address.\\nThey can create an account to file at https://www.visa4uk.fco.gov.uk/home/welcome.\\n2-5. Add more details to your application in the Appendix form.\\nThe Appendix goes more into depth about the type of care your parents need, what kind of care they're getting now, and why they need care from you. They'll also need to add information about your financial status and how you will be able to provide for them.\\nThis form also asks questions about where they will plan to live once they move to the U.K.\\n3. Finishing the Application\\n3-1. Send in the required documents by mail.\\nOnce you fill out the application, you can send in the documents through snail mail. The address you need will be listed on the application.\\nIf you don't have the original documents, you must get the copies certified.\\n3-2. Pay the visa application fee.\\nThe fee for overseas applications for dependent relatives varies by country. However, it typically is over 3,000 pounds as of 2018, so it is fairly costly.\\nYou may need to save for a little while to be able to afford the visa fee.\\n3-3. File an appeal if your parents are denied entrance.\\nYour parents have a right to appeal the decision if their visa application is refused. You parents must appeal within 28 days of receiving a refusal letter using the IAFT-6 appeal form, which you can find at https://immigrationappealsonline.justice.gov.uk/IACFees/.\\nYou can find a paper form at https://www.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/688323/iaft-6-eng.pdf.\\nAs of 2017, the fees for an appeal are 80 pounds for a paper hearing or 140 pounds for an oral hearing. For a paper hearing, the appeal is decided on the documents you and your parents provide. For an oral hearing, you or your parents can go and argue the case.\\nThe fees can be waived if you're receiving Legal Aid from a United Kingdom-based legal representative.\\n3-4. Contact an immigration lawyer if you need one.\\nIf you feel like navigating the process is a bit too much, an immigration lawyer can help. You'll need to find one in the UK to help you through the process, including the appeal.\\nStart by working with an immigration adviser. There are 3 levels in the UK, where one is for simple cases and 3 is for the most complicated ones. Some advisers work for free, or you may qualify for legal aid, which you can find at https://www.gov.uk/check-legal-aid.\\nYou can find a list of immigration advisers and solicitors at http://home.oisc.gov.uk/register_of_regulated_immigration_advisers/register.aspx.\\nAn immigration lawyer can cost anywhere from 250 pounds to 3,000+ pounds, depending on how much help you need.\\nAsk your friends if they know of any good immigration lawyers.\\nTips\\nSometimes, using the Surinder Singh application is easier. With this application, you must still be a UK resident and your parents must still be dependent on you. You also must work in an EEA country for 3 months. The main benefit is sometimes the income requirements are lower. The application process is essentially the same.[17]\\nX\\nTrustworthy Source\\nOfficial UK government website\\nOfficial website for the public sector of the UK government\\nGo to source\\nIt can help to show you have a closer-than-average bond with your parents, which you can add information about on the Appendix form. Basically, you want to show that you have a close relationship with your parents, not that you just want to bring them to the UK because they're your parents.[18]\\nX\\nResearch source\\nParents can also apply to come to the UK if their children are under 18. However, you won't be able to help with this application if you're underage.[19]\\nX\\nTrustworthy Source\\nOfficial UK government website\\nOfficial website for the public sector of the UK government\\nGo to source\\nWarnings\\nThese applications are often denied, even if you do meet the basic criteria. The UK Government would prefer that you pay for care for your parents in their home country. Make sure your parents provide all the information required so that they aren't denied for a technical reason.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Bringing your parents to the UK can be difficult, but it's quite doable under the right circumstances. As an adult, the only way to bring your parents over to the UK is if they require daily care, and you plan to provide it. If you meet this requirement, your parents can fill out a visa application, which may allow them to reside permanently in the UK with you!\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Meeting the Requirements for Dependent Relatives\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Have permanent status or citizenship.\", \"描述\": \"For your parents to come over, you must be a permanent resident in the U.K. That means that you need to have citizenship, permanent leave to remain, permanent residency, refugee status, or humanitarian protection.\\nBasically, if you are legally staying in the UK on a semi-permanent basis, you can likely bring your parents over.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Ensure your parents need long-term care.\", \"描述\": \"The main way you can bring over your parents is if they need assistance with daily care tasks, including household tasks, personal hygiene tasks, and/or medical tasks. Your parents must need this care because of illness, disability, or age.\\nAlso, they must not be able to get this care where they are living right now, which includes not having any relatives there who can provide that support. Exceptions may be made if care is not affordable.\\nBoth parents must apply at the same time if they are both still alive and still married. In other words, if one parent could depend on the other for care, the UK government won't allow just the one parent who needs care to apply. Both parents must need care.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Save enough money to support your parents for 5 years.\", \"描述\": \"In other words, you'll need to show you have sufficient income to provide continuing support for your relatives. You must not use public funds to provide this support.\\nGenerally, you must prove you can at least meet the threshold of making 18,600 pounds per year, which is the amount where you are not dependent on the state for things like a housing credit or tax credits.\\nIt can help to have money saved. If you need to, try creating a budget to help you put some money back.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Applying for a Dependent Relative Visa\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Help your parents gather the basic documents.\", \"描述\": \"They'll need their current passports, as well as any previous passports. Have your parents get 2 passport photos each, which will be used for the visa itself. If they have biometric residence permits, they should provide those, as well.\\nYou can easily get passport photos at most drug stores or big box stores.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Provide proof of your relationship with a birth certificate.\", \"描述\": \"For proof of relationship, you will need your birth certificate to show they are your parents. Adoption certificates are also a good option.\\nIf you don't have a copy of your birth certificate, you can Get Your Original Birth Certificate request one from the country you were born in. You will need to contact their government.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Request a health certification from your parents' doctor or health professional.\", \"描述\": \"Your parents must not be able to live on their own, and a doctor or other health professional must certify this. You will need to submit this certification with your parents' application.\\nIf they live in a country where there is tuberculosis, they will also need to send in test results showing they don't have the disease. You can find the list of countries that have this requirement here: https://www.gov.uk/tb-test-visa/countries-where-you-need-a-tb-test-to-enter-the-uk.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Fill in the application online with biographical information.\", \"描述\": \"Typically, your parents will need to do the application themselves. They will need to fill in basic biographical information like their address and date of birth, as well as things like their passport numbers.\\nThey will also need to add information about you, such as what kind of residency you have, your date of birth, your nationality, and your address.\\nThey can create an account to file at https://www.visa4uk.fco.gov.uk/home/welcome.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Add more details to your application in the Appendix form.\", \"描述\": \"The Appendix goes more into depth about the type of care your parents need, what kind of care they're getting now, and why they need care from you. They'll also need to add information about your financial status and how you will be able to provide for them.\\nThis form also asks questions about where they will plan to live once they move to the U.K.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Finishing the Application\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Send in the required documents by mail.\", \"描述\": \"Once you fill out the application, you can send in the documents through snail mail. The address you need will be listed on the application.\\nIf you don't have the original documents, you must get the copies certified.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Pay the visa application fee.\", \"描述\": \"The fee for overseas applications for dependent relatives varies by country. However, it typically is over 3,000 pounds as of 2018, so it is fairly costly.\\nYou may need to save for a little while to be able to afford the visa fee.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"File an appeal if your parents are denied entrance.\", \"描述\": \"Your parents have a right to appeal the decision if their visa application is refused. You parents must appeal within 28 days of receiving a refusal letter using the IAFT-6 appeal form, which you can find at https://immigrationappealsonline.justice.gov.uk/IACFees/.\\nYou can find a paper form at https://www.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/688323/iaft-6-eng.pdf.\\nAs of 2017, the fees for an appeal are 80 pounds for a paper hearing or 140 pounds for an oral hearing. For a paper hearing, the appeal is decided on the documents you and your parents provide. For an oral hearing, you or your parents can go and argue the case.\\nThe fees can be waived if you're receiving Legal Aid from a United Kingdom-based legal representative.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Contact an immigration lawyer if you need one.\", \"描述\": \"If you feel like navigating the process is a bit too much, an immigration lawyer can help. You'll need to find one in the UK to help you through the process, including the appeal.\\nStart by working with an immigration adviser. There are 3 levels in the UK, where one is for simple cases and 3 is for the most complicated ones. Some advisers work for free, or you may qualify for legal aid, which you can find at https://www.gov.uk/check-legal-aid.\\nYou can find a list of immigration advisers and solicitors at http://home.oisc.gov.uk/register_of_regulated_immigration_advisers/register.aspx.\\nAn immigration lawyer can cost anywhere from 250 pounds to 3,000+ pounds, depending on how much help you need.\\nAsk your friends if they know of any good immigration lawyers.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Sometimes, using the Surinder Singh application is easier. With this application, you must still be a UK resident and your parents must still be dependent on you. You also must work in an EEA country for 3 months. The main benefit is sometimes the income requirements are lower. The application process is essentially the same.[17]\\nX\\nTrustworthy Source\\nOfficial UK government website\\nOfficial website for the public sector of the UK government\\nGo to source\\n\", \"It can help to show you have a closer-than-average bond with your parents, which you can add information about on the Appendix form. Basically, you want to show that you have a close relationship with your parents, not that you just want to bring them to the UK because they're your parents.[18]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\", \"Parents can also apply to come to the UK if their children are under 18. However, you won't be able to help with this application if you're underage.[19]\\nX\\nTrustworthy Source\\nOfficial UK government website\\nOfficial website for the public sector of the UK government\\nGo to source\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"These applications are often denied, even if you do meet the basic criteria. The UK Government would prefer that you pay for care for your parents in their home country. Make sure your parents provide all the information required so that they aren't denied for a technical reason.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,016 |
How to Bring a Baby to the Movies
|
1. Choosing a Screening
1-1. Find a baby-friendly movie theater.
Some theaters are more tolerant of babies than others, so choose your cinema carefully. Look for chains where children under a certain age get in free, since that means they have accommodations in place for young children. Avoid theaters with strict etiquette policies like the Alamo Drafthouse.
1-2. Ask about stroller screenings.
Many cinemas have special “stroller” or “mothers and babies” screenings to accommodate parents with young children. These screenings may have the sound boosted to drown out crying or turned down to avoid harming the infants’ ears. Some theaters offer ticket or concession discounts for these showings, especially if they’re part of a special event or multi-week movie series.
Most kid-focused screenings happen early in the morning and are designed to sell tickets during slow business hours.
If you can, choose a screening that takes place when your baby is normally napping.
1-3. Ask about theater daycare.
Some cinemas offer childcare services for parents who can’t find a sitter. Call ahead to see if your theater provides this. If they do, ask when the service is available, how much it costs, and if you need to make a reservation.
Some theaters charge by the hour, while others charge a flat rate for each movie.
1-4. See an appropriate film.
Though they won’t understand the story, some movies contain imagery or noises that can overwhelm a baby. Look for family films, animated movies, romantic comedies, and other genres known for bright, pleasant colors and relaxed sound design. Avoid horror films, action movies, and other genres known for frightening imagery or loud noises.
Raunchy jokes and offensive language are fine if your baby is too young to comprehend or repeat them, but avoid distressing imagery and creepy or unsettling sounds.
When in doubt, consult a website like Kids-In-Mind or Common Sense Media, which offer comprehensive breakdowns of potentially troubling content in movies.
1-5. Avoid 3D, 4D, and D-Box movies.
Look for a standard 2D screening of the movie you want to see. Movies with enhanced seat or environment effects may be fun, but they can make young children uncomfortable or queasy. Though 3D movies are considered safe for all ages when watched in moderation, they can make some kids sick or dizzy.
2. Soothing Your Baby
2-1. Bring a handheld baby carrier.
Most handheld carriers are small and compact enough to fit in theater aisles. Look for a carrier with a hood or cover in case your baby wants to sleep or get away from the new environment. Avoid backpack or body carriers, as they allow children to look at other patrons and take them out of the experience.
If you want to bring a stroller instead, make sure it folds down so you don’t block anybody’s view.
2-2. Pack earmuffs and eye protection.
Some babies find bright lights, flashing images, or loud sounds difficult to deal with. To help them stay calm during loud films, bring a pair of earmuffs or baby-safe ear plugs. To help with light issues, bring a pair of infant sunglasses or an eye mask.
2-3. Pack clean snacks.
Snacks can keep a baby quiet and occupied, especially when they’re surrounded by so many delicious smells. Look for snacks that are easy to clean up, like cereal and fruit gummies, or things that can be drunk from a bottle or sippy cup, like milk and juice. Avoid goopy snacks like applesauce and yogurt, since they’re very messy and will be harder for the you to clean up.
Remember that the mess your child makes is something you ought to clean up, not the movie theater staff! There is a difference for them between sweeping up spilled popcorn and scrubbing yogurt off of seats. Be sure that you don't leave them undue labor.
2-4. Pack a quiet toy.
A toy can help babies stay engaged and feel secure in new environments, but distracting ones can ruin a movie for other patrons. Stuffed animals and similar plush toys are great, quiet solutions, as are squishy teething toys. Avoid anything with multiple parts so you don’t lose part of the toy.
Movie theater floors are not always clean, so bring baby-safe disinfectant wipes or spray in case a toy falls on the ground.
3. Respecting Theater Etiquette
3-1. Hold your baby at all times.
For their own safety, and out of consideration for other patrons, make sure your baby is in your arms or strapped to their carrier for the entire film. Because theaters are so dark, an unsecured baby could stumble down the stairs or fall though aisle borders, so keep an eye on them for the entire picture.
3-2. Exit the theater if your baby starts crying.
Should your baby start to cry, scream, or make other distracting noises, excuse yourself from the theater to deal with the situation. Once your baby is calm and quiet, feel free to return to the movie. To help scenarios like this go smoothly, look for an aisle seat near the theater entrance.
3-3. Change messy diapers immediately.
Theaters are designed to keep light and sound inside, which means they also keep in smells. To avoid stinking up a movie, make sure to change any messy diapers as soon as they occur.
3-4. Be kind to your fellow moviegoers.
Everyone is at the cinema to have a good time, so be nice and try to accommodate those in the theater with you. A simple “I’m sorry” or “Thank you for understanding” can work wonders, even if your baby is making someone’s day particularly difficult.
Some people get upset if they see a baby in a theater. If they start making negative or threatening comments toward you or your child, make sure to let the staff know.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:58:48",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Choosing a Screening\\n1-1. Find a baby-friendly movie theater.\\nSome theaters are more tolerant of babies than others, so choose your cinema carefully. Look for chains where children under a certain age get in free, since that means they have accommodations in place for young children. Avoid theaters with strict etiquette policies like the Alamo Drafthouse.\\n1-2. Ask about stroller screenings.\\nMany cinemas have special “stroller” or “mothers and babies” screenings to accommodate parents with young children. These screenings may have the sound boosted to drown out crying or turned down to avoid harming the infants’ ears. Some theaters offer ticket or concession discounts for these showings, especially if they’re part of a special event or multi-week movie series.\\nMost kid-focused screenings happen early in the morning and are designed to sell tickets during slow business hours.\\nIf you can, choose a screening that takes place when your baby is normally napping.\\n1-3. Ask about theater daycare.\\nSome cinemas offer childcare services for parents who can’t find a sitter. Call ahead to see if your theater provides this. If they do, ask when the service is available, how much it costs, and if you need to make a reservation.\\nSome theaters charge by the hour, while others charge a flat rate for each movie.\\n1-4. See an appropriate film.\\nThough they won’t understand the story, some movies contain imagery or noises that can overwhelm a baby. Look for family films, animated movies, romantic comedies, and other genres known for bright, pleasant colors and relaxed sound design. Avoid horror films, action movies, and other genres known for frightening imagery or loud noises.\\nRaunchy jokes and offensive language are fine if your baby is too young to comprehend or repeat them, but avoid distressing imagery and creepy or unsettling sounds.\\nWhen in doubt, consult a website like Kids-In-Mind or Common Sense Media, which offer comprehensive breakdowns of potentially troubling content in movies.\\n1-5. Avoid 3D, 4D, and D-Box movies.\\nLook for a standard 2D screening of the movie you want to see. Movies with enhanced seat or environment effects may be fun, but they can make young children uncomfortable or queasy. Though 3D movies are considered safe for all ages when watched in moderation, they can make some kids sick or dizzy.\\n2. Soothing Your Baby\\n2-1. Bring a handheld baby carrier.\\nMost handheld carriers are small and compact enough to fit in theater aisles. Look for a carrier with a hood or cover in case your baby wants to sleep or get away from the new environment. Avoid backpack or body carriers, as they allow children to look at other patrons and take them out of the experience.\\nIf you want to bring a stroller instead, make sure it folds down so you don’t block anybody’s view.\\n2-2. Pack earmuffs and eye protection.\\nSome babies find bright lights, flashing images, or loud sounds difficult to deal with. To help them stay calm during loud films, bring a pair of earmuffs or baby-safe ear plugs. To help with light issues, bring a pair of infant sunglasses or an eye mask.\\n2-3. Pack clean snacks.\\nSnacks can keep a baby quiet and occupied, especially when they’re surrounded by so many delicious smells. Look for snacks that are easy to clean up, like cereal and fruit gummies, or things that can be drunk from a bottle or sippy cup, like milk and juice. Avoid goopy snacks like applesauce and yogurt, since they’re very messy and will be harder for the you to clean up.\\nRemember that the mess your child makes is something you ought to clean up, not the movie theater staff! There is a difference for them between sweeping up spilled popcorn and scrubbing yogurt off of seats. Be sure that you don't leave them undue labor.\\n2-4. Pack a quiet toy.\\nA toy can help babies stay engaged and feel secure in new environments, but distracting ones can ruin a movie for other patrons. Stuffed animals and similar plush toys are great, quiet solutions, as are squishy teething toys. Avoid anything with multiple parts so you don’t lose part of the toy.\\nMovie theater floors are not always clean, so bring baby-safe disinfectant wipes or spray in case a toy falls on the ground.\\n3. Respecting Theater Etiquette\\n3-1. Hold your baby at all times.\\nFor their own safety, and out of consideration for other patrons, make sure your baby is in your arms or strapped to their carrier for the entire film. Because theaters are so dark, an unsecured baby could stumble down the stairs or fall though aisle borders, so keep an eye on them for the entire picture.\\n3-2. Exit the theater if your baby starts crying.\\nShould your baby start to cry, scream, or make other distracting noises, excuse yourself from the theater to deal with the situation. Once your baby is calm and quiet, feel free to return to the movie. To help scenarios like this go smoothly, look for an aisle seat near the theater entrance.\\n3-3. Change messy diapers immediately.\\nTheaters are designed to keep light and sound inside, which means they also keep in smells. To avoid stinking up a movie, make sure to change any messy diapers as soon as they occur.\\n3-4. Be kind to your fellow moviegoers.\\nEveryone is at the cinema to have a good time, so be nice and try to accommodate those in the theater with you. A simple “I’m sorry” or “Thank you for understanding” can work wonders, even if your baby is making someone’s day particularly difficult.\\nSome people get upset if they see a baby in a theater. If they start making negative or threatening comments toward you or your child, make sure to let the staff know.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Movies are a wonderful, exciting pastime, and movie theaters are perhaps the best way to watch them. While babies can make it more difficult to enjoy a cinema experience, some simple prep-work can help parents get out to the theaters without worrying about a sitter. At an appropriate screening, with supplies in hand and manners in mind, parents can bring their baby to the movies while making sure everyone else’s experience remains positive.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Choosing a Screening\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Find a baby-friendly movie theater.\", \"描述\": \"Some theaters are more tolerant of babies than others, so choose your cinema carefully. Look for chains where children under a certain age get in free, since that means they have accommodations in place for young children. Avoid theaters with strict etiquette policies like the Alamo Drafthouse.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Ask about stroller screenings.\", \"描述\": \"Many cinemas have special “stroller” or “mothers and babies” screenings to accommodate parents with young children. These screenings may have the sound boosted to drown out crying or turned down to avoid harming the infants’ ears. Some theaters offer ticket or concession discounts for these showings, especially if they’re part of a special event or multi-week movie series.\\nMost kid-focused screenings happen early in the morning and are designed to sell tickets during slow business hours.\\nIf you can, choose a screening that takes place when your baby is normally napping.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Ask about theater daycare.\", \"描述\": \"Some cinemas offer childcare services for parents who can’t find a sitter. Call ahead to see if your theater provides this. If they do, ask when the service is available, how much it costs, and if you need to make a reservation.\\nSome theaters charge by the hour, while others charge a flat rate for each movie.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"See an appropriate film.\", \"描述\": \"Though they won’t understand the story, some movies contain imagery or noises that can overwhelm a baby. Look for family films, animated movies, romantic comedies, and other genres known for bright, pleasant colors and relaxed sound design. Avoid horror films, action movies, and other genres known for frightening imagery or loud noises.\\nRaunchy jokes and offensive language are fine if your baby is too young to comprehend or repeat them, but avoid distressing imagery and creepy or unsettling sounds.\\nWhen in doubt, consult a website like Kids-In-Mind or Common Sense Media, which offer comprehensive breakdowns of potentially troubling content in movies.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Avoid 3D, 4D, and D-Box movies.\", \"描述\": \"Look for a standard 2D screening of the movie you want to see. Movies with enhanced seat or environment effects may be fun, but they can make young children uncomfortable or queasy. Though 3D movies are considered safe for all ages when watched in moderation, they can make some kids sick or dizzy.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Soothing Your Baby\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Bring a handheld baby carrier.\", \"描述\": \"Most handheld carriers are small and compact enough to fit in theater aisles. Look for a carrier with a hood or cover in case your baby wants to sleep or get away from the new environment. Avoid backpack or body carriers, as they allow children to look at other patrons and take them out of the experience.\\nIf you want to bring a stroller instead, make sure it folds down so you don’t block anybody’s view.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Pack earmuffs and eye protection.\", \"描述\": \"Some babies find bright lights, flashing images, or loud sounds difficult to deal with. To help them stay calm during loud films, bring a pair of earmuffs or baby-safe ear plugs. To help with light issues, bring a pair of infant sunglasses or an eye mask.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Pack clean snacks.\", \"描述\": \"Snacks can keep a baby quiet and occupied, especially when they’re surrounded by so many delicious smells. Look for snacks that are easy to clean up, like cereal and fruit gummies, or things that can be drunk from a bottle or sippy cup, like milk and juice. Avoid goopy snacks like applesauce and yogurt, since they’re very messy and will be harder for the you to clean up.\\nRemember that the mess your child makes is something you ought to clean up, not the movie theater staff! There is a difference for them between sweeping up spilled popcorn and scrubbing yogurt off of seats. Be sure that you don't leave them undue labor.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Pack a quiet toy.\", \"描述\": \"A toy can help babies stay engaged and feel secure in new environments, but distracting ones can ruin a movie for other patrons. Stuffed animals and similar plush toys are great, quiet solutions, as are squishy teething toys. Avoid anything with multiple parts so you don’t lose part of the toy.\\nMovie theater floors are not always clean, so bring baby-safe disinfectant wipes or spray in case a toy falls on the ground.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Respecting Theater Etiquette\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Hold your baby at all times.\", \"描述\": \"For their own safety, and out of consideration for other patrons, make sure your baby is in your arms or strapped to their carrier for the entire film. Because theaters are so dark, an unsecured baby could stumble down the stairs or fall though aisle borders, so keep an eye on them for the entire picture.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Exit the theater if your baby starts crying.\", \"描述\": \"Should your baby start to cry, scream, or make other distracting noises, excuse yourself from the theater to deal with the situation. Once your baby is calm and quiet, feel free to return to the movie. To help scenarios like this go smoothly, look for an aisle seat near the theater entrance.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Change messy diapers immediately.\", \"描述\": \"Theaters are designed to keep light and sound inside, which means they also keep in smells. To avoid stinking up a movie, make sure to change any messy diapers as soon as they occur.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Be kind to your fellow moviegoers.\", \"描述\": \"Everyone is at the cinema to have a good time, so be nice and try to accommodate those in the theater with you. A simple “I’m sorry” or “Thank you for understanding” can work wonders, even if your baby is making someone’s day particularly difficult.\\nSome people get upset if they see a baby in a theater. If they start making negative or threatening comments toward you or your child, make sure to let the staff know.\"}]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,017 |
How to Bring a Blind Pimple to a Head
|
1. Using Acne Treatments
1-1. Apply an exfoliator.
Desquamation, or the process of shedding outer skin layers, is an important part of skin rejuvenation. Using a gentle exfoliating agent can help get rid of the dead skin cells clinging to your epidermis, which may help unclog pores and prevent them from re-clogging.
If you have normal to oily skin, consider exfoliating once every day or two. If you have dryer, more sensitive skin, you may want to limit yourself to exfoliating once or twice each week.
There are two categories of exfoliants: mechanical exfoliants, like facial scrubs and cleansing pads, as well as chemical exfoliants, like hydroxy acids. Both are effective at removing dead skin cells and opening up your pores.
Many different exfoliating products are available on the market today, but certain types of exfoliants may damage your skin, depending on your skin type. If you're unsure about which products to use, talk to a board-certified dermatologist or another skincare expert about the best exfoliation option for your skin type.
1-2. Use over-the-counter products.
There are many over-the-counter (OTC) products that will help fight acne, including blind pimples. When using OTC products, it's important that you wash the problem areas with a gentle cleanser twice daily (unless your skin is too sensitive to be washed more than once a day). Use just enough acne product to cover the blind pimple and other problem areas on your skin. OTC products typically include one or more of the following ingredients:
benzoyl peroxide - kills bacteria, removes dead skin cells and excess oil, and can help unclog pores. May cause dry skin, scaling, and burning, and can bleach hair or clothing.
salicylic acid - helps prevent pores from becoming plugged. May cause mild stinging and/or skin irritation.
alpha hydroxy acids - there are two types of alpha hydroxy acids commonly found in OTC products: glycolic acid and lactic acid. Both acids are effective at removing dead skin cells, reducing inflammation, and stimulating new skin growth.
sulfur - removes dead skin cells and excess oil to prevent pores from clogging and helps kill bacteria on your skin. May cause dry skin and carry an unpleasant odor.
1-3. Try prescription-strength topicals.
If OTC acne products do not adequately treat your skin problems, you may need to talk to a dermatologist about prescription-strength medications. Topical prescriptions are medications that are applied topically (to the external surface of your skin). For best results, wash your skin with a gentle cleanser and dry your face about 15 minutes before using a topical medication. Common prescription-strength topicals include one or more of the following ingredients:
retinoids - prevent hair follicles from becoming plugged, which can help prevent pimples from forming. Retinoids also reduce inflammation. Start by applying retinoids in the evening three times each week, working your way up to daily use as your skin becomes accustomed to the medicine.
antibiotics - kill excess bacteria on your skin and reduce redness and inflammation. Topical antibiotics are often combined with benzoyl peroxide to reduce the chances of becoming resistant to the antibiotics. Common antibiotic combinations include clindamycin with benzoyl peroxide (Benzaclin, Duac) and erythromycin with benzoyl peroxide (Benzamycin).
dapsone (Aczone) - kills bacteria and prevents skin pores from becoming clogged. May cause dry or reddish skin.
2. Trying Home Remedies
2-1. Use heat or ice therapy.
Depending on your skin and the severity of your blind pimple, you may want to consider using heat therapy or ice therapy. A warm compress can dry out a blind pimple and help it drain, while an ice pack can help reduce pain and swelling at the site of the pimple. You may want to use ice for the early stages of a blind pimple. If the pimple gets larger, more inflamed, or more painful, then you may want to use more warm compresses to try to draw out the fluid.
You can make a simple warm compress by soaking a clean wash cloth in warm to hot water (but be careful not to burn yourself). Apply a warm compress for just a few minutes at a time, but you can repeat the process as often as necessary throughout the day.
For ice therapy, apply an ice pack, or wrap ice cubes in a clean towel or wash cloth. Apply the cold compress for no more than 10 minutes at a time, up to four times each day.
2-2. Make an apple and honey mask.
Apples and honey are thought to be helpful for treating acne (including blind pimples) due to the properties of both ingredients. Apples contain malic acid, which can help make skin firmer and stronger, while honey has antimicrobial properties that can help fight bacteria (which may be the cause of your clogged pores).
Blend an apple into a pulp. Then gradually add all-natural honey to thicken the pulp until it forms an easily-spreadable paste.
Apply the paste to your blind pimple and let it stay on for at least ten minutes. Then wipe or rinse the paste away and wash your skin with a gentle facial wash.
2-3. Try tea tree oil.
Tea tree oil is often used in natural remedies to treat a variety of skin conditions. Applying tea tree oil to a blind pimple may help remove dead skin cells, oil, and dirt that has clogged your pores and reduce inflammation.
Use a small amount of oil on the blind pimple three times each day. This may work best when combined with other skin care routines, like using exfoliators or a gentle face wash.
2-4. Apply aloe vera.
Aloe vera has long been used to remedy skin ailments, and many people believe that aloe vera may help treat blind pimples. If you're using a store-bought gel, simply apply the aloe vera gel to the affected site. If using your own aloe leaves, break the leaf along the stem and squeeze out some of the plant's gel-like juice.
Apply aloe vera directly to the site of the blind pimple, and leave it on for at least 20 minutes. After 20 minutes, rinse your face with warm water to clear away your skin.
3. Preventing Blind Pimples
3-1. Practice good hygiene.
Keeping your face clean is one of the best things you can do to prevent blind pimples from forming. That's because most pimples are caused by pores clogged with dirt, bacteria, and oil, all of which can be removed by using a daily facial wash. It's also important to properly wash your hands any time you will be touching your face, as unwashed hands could introduce new bacteria to your skin's pores.
Choose a gentle cleanser. Opt for facial cleansers that are non-abrasive and do not contain alcohol.
Wet your face with clean lukewarm water. Then use your fingertips (after washing your hands) to apply the cleanser. Do not scrub your skin, as this can cause irritation and damage.
Rinse with clean lukewarm water and pat your face dry with a clean, soft towel.
Wash twice daily and any time you sweat excessively.
3-2. Stay hydrated.
Properly hydrating your body can help improve your skin's elasticity. Though elasticity is not necessarily correlative with reduced acne, it can help improve your skin as part of an overall skin-care regimen.
Aim for eight glasses of water daily. Avoid consuming sugar, alcohol, and excess caffeine to help prevent dehydration.
3-3. Eat a healthy diet.
Avoid foods with high in sugar or fat, and reduce processed foods. Eat more healthy, whole foods like fruits and vegetables. There is no conclusive evidence, but studies have show links between acne and foods containing high levels of refined sugar, fat, or dairy.
Foods that cause your blood sugar to rise (like sugar and carbohydrates) cause your body to release insulin, which may cause your oil glands to overproduce. A low-glycemic diet may help prevent acne.
3-4. Reduce your stress.
Stress is not likely to create new cases of acne, but if you're already prone to acne, stress can induce a bad flare up. Reducing your daily stress levels can help reduce acne outbreaks, including blind pimples.
Try autogenic relaxation. This method of stress relief involves repeating calming words/phrases in your mind while focusing on your body's sensations. Try concentrating on your breathing or relaxing each limb in succession while reciting your calming mantra.
Use progressive muscle relaxation. This technique involves tensing, holding, and then relaxing each major muscle group in your body in succession. Start at your head and work your way down, or vice versa. Hold your tensed muscles for at least five seconds, then release the tenseness and let your muscles relax for 30 seconds before moving to the next muscle group.
Visualize a peaceful place/situation. Close your eyes and sit alone in a quiet spot. While picturing a relaxing scenario or place, try to engage your senses. Think about the feeling of sitting on the floor/ground/bed, the sounds of ocean waves (for example), and the smell of salt water wafting over you.
Meditate. Sit alone in a quiet place. You can sit with your legs folded under you, or you can sit upright with your feet firmly planted on the floor (whatever is most comfortable). Close your eyes and focus on your breathing. Breathe through your diaphragm (down near your stomach) rather than your chest. Take slow, deep breaths in and out, and try incorporating a mantra (if you're comfortable with it). Your mantra can be affirming (I love myself) or relaxing (I feel completely peaceful) - whatever will help you relax and sit in peace.
Tips
If you have tried some of these steps and the blind pimple gets worse or does not go away, talk to your dermatologist about treatments in the office, such as a cortisone injection into the pimple, to help it go away.
Over washing or using harsher, stronger chemicals will only aggravate acne and irritate your skin.
Use a gentle cleanser and avoiding greasy or oily cosmetics.
Warnings
Avoid squeezing the pimple. This will only aggravate the inflammation and increase the amount of pain you experience. Unlike a whitehead/blackhead pimple, a blind pimple cannot be popped.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:58:48",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Using Acne Treatments\\n1-1. Apply an exfoliator.\\nDesquamation, or the process of shedding outer skin layers, is an important part of skin rejuvenation. Using a gentle exfoliating agent can help get rid of the dead skin cells clinging to your epidermis, which may help unclog pores and prevent them from re-clogging.\\nIf you have normal to oily skin, consider exfoliating once every day or two. If you have dryer, more sensitive skin, you may want to limit yourself to exfoliating once or twice each week.\\nThere are two categories of exfoliants: mechanical exfoliants, like facial scrubs and cleansing pads, as well as chemical exfoliants, like hydroxy acids. Both are effective at removing dead skin cells and opening up your pores.\\nMany different exfoliating products are available on the market today, but certain types of exfoliants may damage your skin, depending on your skin type. If you're unsure about which products to use, talk to a board-certified dermatologist or another skincare expert about the best exfoliation option for your skin type.\\n1-2. Use over-the-counter products.\\nThere are many over-the-counter (OTC) products that will help fight acne, including blind pimples. When using OTC products, it's important that you wash the problem areas with a gentle cleanser twice daily (unless your skin is too sensitive to be washed more than once a day). Use just enough acne product to cover the blind pimple and other problem areas on your skin. OTC products typically include one or more of the following ingredients:\\nbenzoyl peroxide - kills bacteria, removes dead skin cells and excess oil, and can help unclog pores. May cause dry skin, scaling, and burning, and can bleach hair or clothing.\\nsalicylic acid - helps prevent pores from becoming plugged. May cause mild stinging and/or skin irritation.\\nalpha hydroxy acids - there are two types of alpha hydroxy acids commonly found in OTC products: glycolic acid and lactic acid. Both acids are effective at removing dead skin cells, reducing inflammation, and stimulating new skin growth.\\nsulfur - removes dead skin cells and excess oil to prevent pores from clogging and helps kill bacteria on your skin. May cause dry skin and carry an unpleasant odor.\\n1-3. Try prescription-strength topicals.\\nIf OTC acne products do not adequately treat your skin problems, you may need to talk to a dermatologist about prescription-strength medications. Topical prescriptions are medications that are applied topically (to the external surface of your skin). For best results, wash your skin with a gentle cleanser and dry your face about 15 minutes before using a topical medication. Common prescription-strength topicals include one or more of the following ingredients:\\nretinoids - prevent hair follicles from becoming plugged, which can help prevent pimples from forming. Retinoids also reduce inflammation. Start by applying retinoids in the evening three times each week, working your way up to daily use as your skin becomes accustomed to the medicine.\\nantibiotics - kill excess bacteria on your skin and reduce redness and inflammation. Topical antibiotics are often combined with benzoyl peroxide to reduce the chances of becoming resistant to the antibiotics. Common antibiotic combinations include clindamycin with benzoyl peroxide (Benzaclin, Duac) and erythromycin with benzoyl peroxide (Benzamycin).\\ndapsone (Aczone) - kills bacteria and prevents skin pores from becoming clogged. May cause dry or reddish skin.\\n2. Trying Home Remedies\\n2-1. Use heat or ice therapy.\\nDepending on your skin and the severity of your blind pimple, you may want to consider using heat therapy or ice therapy. A warm compress can dry out a blind pimple and help it drain, while an ice pack can help reduce pain and swelling at the site of the pimple. You may want to use ice for the early stages of a blind pimple. If the pimple gets larger, more inflamed, or more painful, then you may want to use more warm compresses to try to draw out the fluid.\\nYou can make a simple warm compress by soaking a clean wash cloth in warm to hot water (but be careful not to burn yourself). Apply a warm compress for just a few minutes at a time, but you can repeat the process as often as necessary throughout the day.\\nFor ice therapy, apply an ice pack, or wrap ice cubes in a clean towel or wash cloth. Apply the cold compress for no more than 10 minutes at a time, up to four times each day.\\n2-2. Make an apple and honey mask.\\nApples and honey are thought to be helpful for treating acne (including blind pimples) due to the properties of both ingredients. Apples contain malic acid, which can help make skin firmer and stronger, while honey has antimicrobial properties that can help fight bacteria (which may be the cause of your clogged pores).\\nBlend an apple into a pulp. Then gradually add all-natural honey to thicken the pulp until it forms an easily-spreadable paste.\\nApply the paste to your blind pimple and let it stay on for at least ten minutes. Then wipe or rinse the paste away and wash your skin with a gentle facial wash.\\n2-3. Try tea tree oil.\\nTea tree oil is often used in natural remedies to treat a variety of skin conditions. Applying tea tree oil to a blind pimple may help remove dead skin cells, oil, and dirt that has clogged your pores and reduce inflammation.\\nUse a small amount of oil on the blind pimple three times each day. This may work best when combined with other skin care routines, like using exfoliators or a gentle face wash.\\n2-4. Apply aloe vera.\\nAloe vera has long been used to remedy skin ailments, and many people believe that aloe vera may help treat blind pimples. If you're using a store-bought gel, simply apply the aloe vera gel to the affected site. If using your own aloe leaves, break the leaf along the stem and squeeze out some of the plant's gel-like juice.\\nApply aloe vera directly to the site of the blind pimple, and leave it on for at least 20 minutes. After 20 minutes, rinse your face with warm water to clear away your skin.\\n3. Preventing Blind Pimples\\n3-1. Practice good hygiene.\\nKeeping your face clean is one of the best things you can do to prevent blind pimples from forming. That's because most pimples are caused by pores clogged with dirt, bacteria, and oil, all of which can be removed by using a daily facial wash. It's also important to properly wash your hands any time you will be touching your face, as unwashed hands could introduce new bacteria to your skin's pores.\\nChoose a gentle cleanser. Opt for facial cleansers that are non-abrasive and do not contain alcohol.\\nWet your face with clean lukewarm water. Then use your fingertips (after washing your hands) to apply the cleanser. Do not scrub your skin, as this can cause irritation and damage.\\nRinse with clean lukewarm water and pat your face dry with a clean, soft towel.\\nWash twice daily and any time you sweat excessively.\\n3-2. Stay hydrated.\\nProperly hydrating your body can help improve your skin's elasticity. Though elasticity is not necessarily correlative with reduced acne, it can help improve your skin as part of an overall skin-care regimen.\\nAim for eight glasses of water daily. Avoid consuming sugar, alcohol, and excess caffeine to help prevent dehydration.\\n3-3. Eat a healthy diet.\\nAvoid foods with high in sugar or fat, and reduce processed foods. Eat more healthy, whole foods like fruits and vegetables. There is no conclusive evidence, but studies have show links between acne and foods containing high levels of refined sugar, fat, or dairy.\\nFoods that cause your blood sugar to rise (like sugar and carbohydrates) cause your body to release insulin, which may cause your oil glands to overproduce. A low-glycemic diet may help prevent acne.\\n3-4. Reduce your stress.\\nStress is not likely to create new cases of acne, but if you're already prone to acne, stress can induce a bad flare up. Reducing your daily stress levels can help reduce acne outbreaks, including blind pimples.\\nTry autogenic relaxation. This method of stress relief involves repeating calming words/phrases in your mind while focusing on your body's sensations. Try concentrating on your breathing or relaxing each limb in succession while reciting your calming mantra.\\nUse progressive muscle relaxation. This technique involves tensing, holding, and then relaxing each major muscle group in your body in succession. Start at your head and work your way down, or vice versa. Hold your tensed muscles for at least five seconds, then release the tenseness and let your muscles relax for 30 seconds before moving to the next muscle group.\\nVisualize a peaceful place/situation. Close your eyes and sit alone in a quiet spot. While picturing a relaxing scenario or place, try to engage your senses. Think about the feeling of sitting on the floor/ground/bed, the sounds of ocean waves (for example), and the smell of salt water wafting over you.\\nMeditate. Sit alone in a quiet place. You can sit with your legs folded under you, or you can sit upright with your feet firmly planted on the floor (whatever is most comfortable). Close your eyes and focus on your breathing. Breathe through your diaphragm (down near your stomach) rather than your chest. Take slow, deep breaths in and out, and try incorporating a mantra (if you're comfortable with it). Your mantra can be affirming (I love myself) or relaxing (I feel completely peaceful) - whatever will help you relax and sit in peace.\\nTips\\nIf you have tried some of these steps and the blind pimple gets worse or does not go away, talk to your dermatologist about treatments in the office, such as a cortisone injection into the pimple, to help it go away.\\nOver washing or using harsher, stronger chemicals will only aggravate acne and irritate your skin.\\nUse a gentle cleanser and avoiding greasy or oily cosmetics.\\nWarnings\\nAvoid squeezing the pimple. This will only aggravate the inflammation and increase the amount of pain you experience. Unlike a whitehead/blackhead pimple, a blind pimple cannot be popped.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"A blind pimple is a swollen, pinkish/reddish bump without a head (a localized black or whitish central point). The medical term for a blind pimple is a closed comedone, also known as a papule. A comedo lesion forms the same way a regular pimple does, but the pore is clogged and therefore does not have a head. Blind pimples, or comedones, are often very painful because they are caused by such a deep inflammation below the skin. Learning how to treat comedone acne can help you clear up your complexion and feel more confident in your skin.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Using Acne Treatments\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Apply an exfoliator.\", \"描述\": \"Desquamation, or the process of shedding outer skin layers, is an important part of skin rejuvenation. Using a gentle exfoliating agent can help get rid of the dead skin cells clinging to your epidermis, which may help unclog pores and prevent them from re-clogging.\\nIf you have normal to oily skin, consider exfoliating once every day or two. If you have dryer, more sensitive skin, you may want to limit yourself to exfoliating once or twice each week.\\nThere are two categories of exfoliants: mechanical exfoliants, like facial scrubs and cleansing pads, as well as chemical exfoliants, like hydroxy acids. Both are effective at removing dead skin cells and opening up your pores.\\nMany different exfoliating products are available on the market today, but certain types of exfoliants may damage your skin, depending on your skin type. If you're unsure about which products to use, talk to a board-certified dermatologist or another skincare expert about the best exfoliation option for your skin type.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Use over-the-counter products.\", \"描述\": \"There are many over-the-counter (OTC) products that will help fight acne, including blind pimples. When using OTC products, it's important that you wash the problem areas with a gentle cleanser twice daily (unless your skin is too sensitive to be washed more than once a day). Use just enough acne product to cover the blind pimple and other problem areas on your skin. OTC products typically include one or more of the following ingredients:\\nbenzoyl peroxide - kills bacteria, removes dead skin cells and excess oil, and can help unclog pores. May cause dry skin, scaling, and burning, and can bleach hair or clothing.\\nsalicylic acid - helps prevent pores from becoming plugged. May cause mild stinging and/or skin irritation.\\nalpha hydroxy acids - there are two types of alpha hydroxy acids commonly found in OTC products: glycolic acid and lactic acid. Both acids are effective at removing dead skin cells, reducing inflammation, and stimulating new skin growth.\\nsulfur - removes dead skin cells and excess oil to prevent pores from clogging and helps kill bacteria on your skin. May cause dry skin and carry an unpleasant odor.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Try prescription-strength topicals.\", \"描述\": \"If OTC acne products do not adequately treat your skin problems, you may need to talk to a dermatologist about prescription-strength medications. Topical prescriptions are medications that are applied topically (to the external surface of your skin). For best results, wash your skin with a gentle cleanser and dry your face about 15 minutes before using a topical medication. Common prescription-strength topicals include one or more of the following ingredients:\\nretinoids - prevent hair follicles from becoming plugged, which can help prevent pimples from forming. Retinoids also reduce inflammation. Start by applying retinoids in the evening three times each week, working your way up to daily use as your skin becomes accustomed to the medicine.\\nantibiotics - kill excess bacteria on your skin and reduce redness and inflammation. Topical antibiotics are often combined with benzoyl peroxide to reduce the chances of becoming resistant to the antibiotics. Common antibiotic combinations include clindamycin with benzoyl peroxide (Benzaclin, Duac) and erythromycin with benzoyl peroxide (Benzamycin).\\ndapsone (Aczone) - kills bacteria and prevents skin pores from becoming clogged. May cause dry or reddish skin.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Trying Home Remedies\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Use heat or ice therapy.\", \"描述\": \"Depending on your skin and the severity of your blind pimple, you may want to consider using heat therapy or ice therapy. A warm compress can dry out a blind pimple and help it drain, while an ice pack can help reduce pain and swelling at the site of the pimple. You may want to use ice for the early stages of a blind pimple. If the pimple gets larger, more inflamed, or more painful, then you may want to use more warm compresses to try to draw out the fluid.\\nYou can make a simple warm compress by soaking a clean wash cloth in warm to hot water (but be careful not to burn yourself). Apply a warm compress for just a few minutes at a time, but you can repeat the process as often as necessary throughout the day.\\nFor ice therapy, apply an ice pack, or wrap ice cubes in a clean towel or wash cloth. Apply the cold compress for no more than 10 minutes at a time, up to four times each day.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Make an apple and honey mask.\", \"描述\": \"Apples and honey are thought to be helpful for treating acne (including blind pimples) due to the properties of both ingredients. Apples contain malic acid, which can help make skin firmer and stronger, while honey has antimicrobial properties that can help fight bacteria (which may be the cause of your clogged pores).\\nBlend an apple into a pulp. Then gradually add all-natural honey to thicken the pulp until it forms an easily-spreadable paste.\\nApply the paste to your blind pimple and let it stay on for at least ten minutes. Then wipe or rinse the paste away and wash your skin with a gentle facial wash.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Try tea tree oil.\", \"描述\": \"Tea tree oil is often used in natural remedies to treat a variety of skin conditions. Applying tea tree oil to a blind pimple may help remove dead skin cells, oil, and dirt that has clogged your pores and reduce inflammation.\\nUse a small amount of oil on the blind pimple three times each day. This may work best when combined with other skin care routines, like using exfoliators or a gentle face wash.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Apply aloe vera.\", \"描述\": \"Aloe vera has long been used to remedy skin ailments, and many people believe that aloe vera may help treat blind pimples. If you're using a store-bought gel, simply apply the aloe vera gel to the affected site. If using your own aloe leaves, break the leaf along the stem and squeeze out some of the plant's gel-like juice.\\nApply aloe vera directly to the site of the blind pimple, and leave it on for at least 20 minutes. After 20 minutes, rinse your face with warm water to clear away your skin.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Preventing Blind Pimples\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Practice good hygiene.\", \"描述\": \"Keeping your face clean is one of the best things you can do to prevent blind pimples from forming. That's because most pimples are caused by pores clogged with dirt, bacteria, and oil, all of which can be removed by using a daily facial wash. It's also important to properly wash your hands any time you will be touching your face, as unwashed hands could introduce new bacteria to your skin's pores.\\nChoose a gentle cleanser. Opt for facial cleansers that are non-abrasive and do not contain alcohol.\\nWet your face with clean lukewarm water. Then use your fingertips (after washing your hands) to apply the cleanser. Do not scrub your skin, as this can cause irritation and damage.\\nRinse with clean lukewarm water and pat your face dry with a clean, soft towel.\\nWash twice daily and any time you sweat excessively.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Stay hydrated.\", \"描述\": \"Properly hydrating your body can help improve your skin's elasticity. Though elasticity is not necessarily correlative with reduced acne, it can help improve your skin as part of an overall skin-care regimen.\\nAim for eight glasses of water daily. Avoid consuming sugar, alcohol, and excess caffeine to help prevent dehydration.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Eat a healthy diet.\", \"描述\": \"Avoid foods with high in sugar or fat, and reduce processed foods. Eat more healthy, whole foods like fruits and vegetables. There is no conclusive evidence, but studies have show links between acne and foods containing high levels of refined sugar, fat, or dairy.\\nFoods that cause your blood sugar to rise (like sugar and carbohydrates) cause your body to release insulin, which may cause your oil glands to overproduce. A low-glycemic diet may help prevent acne.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Reduce your stress.\", \"描述\": \"Stress is not likely to create new cases of acne, but if you're already prone to acne, stress can induce a bad flare up. Reducing your daily stress levels can help reduce acne outbreaks, including blind pimples.\\nTry autogenic relaxation. This method of stress relief involves repeating calming words/phrases in your mind while focusing on your body's sensations. Try concentrating on your breathing or relaxing each limb in succession while reciting your calming mantra.\\nUse progressive muscle relaxation. This technique involves tensing, holding, and then relaxing each major muscle group in your body in succession. Start at your head and work your way down, or vice versa. Hold your tensed muscles for at least five seconds, then release the tenseness and let your muscles relax for 30 seconds before moving to the next muscle group.\\nVisualize a peaceful place/situation. Close your eyes and sit alone in a quiet spot. While picturing a relaxing scenario or place, try to engage your senses. Think about the feeling of sitting on the floor/ground/bed, the sounds of ocean waves (for example), and the smell of salt water wafting over you.\\nMeditate. Sit alone in a quiet place. You can sit with your legs folded under you, or you can sit upright with your feet firmly planted on the floor (whatever is most comfortable). Close your eyes and focus on your breathing. Breathe through your diaphragm (down near your stomach) rather than your chest. Take slow, deep breaths in and out, and try incorporating a mantra (if you're comfortable with it). Your mantra can be affirming (I love myself) or relaxing (I feel completely peaceful) - whatever will help you relax and sit in peace.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"If you have tried some of these steps and the blind pimple gets worse or does not go away, talk to your dermatologist about treatments in the office, such as a cortisone injection into the pimple, to help it go away.\\n\", \"Over washing or using harsher, stronger chemicals will only aggravate acne and irritate your skin.\\n\", \"Use a gentle cleanser and avoiding greasy or oily cosmetics.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Avoid squeezing the pimple. This will only aggravate the inflammation and increase the amount of pain you experience. Unlike a whitehead/blackhead pimple, a blind pimple cannot be popped.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,018 |
How to Bring a Cyst to a Head
|
1. Applying Essential Oils and Herbal Treatments
1-1. Use a warm compress on the cyst.
Before you put any essential oils or herbal remedies on the cyst, you should warm up the cyst and encourage it to come closer to the surface. You can do this by applying a warm wet cloth to the cyst for 10-15 minutes. The compress should be warm but not boiling hot, just warmer than the temperature of your skin.
Repeat this process every couple of hours. It will help to bring blood and infection-fighting white blood cells to the source, in addition to keeping the skin soft so that it can drain.
The compress will also keep the area around the cyst clean and better prepare the cyst for the herbal remedies.
1-2. Apply essential oils with a cotton ball or a Q-tip.
You can apply essential oils such as tea tree oil directly onto the cyst with a cotton ball or a Q-tip. This may have anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties. They may possibly help to reduce any swelling around the cyst and lower the risk of infection.
You should only use one essential oil or herbal product at a time, especially if you've never used them before. That way, if your skin gets irritated or you develop an allergy, you will know exactly which oil has caused the problem.
If you have sensitive skin, you can mix the essential oil with castor oil, using three parts essential oil to seven parts castor oil.
Apply the essential oil to the cyst four times a day and cover the cyst with a bandage after you have applied the oil.
1-3. Put aloe vera on the cyst.
Aloe vera has anti-inflammatory properties and can help to speed up healing. You can put the aloe vera directly on the cyst and then let it dry.
You can find aloe vera at your local health food store or in the beauty section of your local grocery store.
1-4. Try witch hazel on the cyst.
Witch hazel has astringent qualities, which may help to dry out the cyst. Apply a small amount of witch hazel on a cotton ball or a Q-tip and apply it to the cyst.
You can find witch hazel at your local health food store or online.
1-5. Dry out the cyst with apple cider vinegar.
Apple cider vinegar has acidic properties that can help to dry out the cyst. If you have sensitive skin or it stings when you apply the vinegar, you can dilute the vinegar with one part water to one part apple cider vinegar.
Apple cider vinegar can be found at your local health food store. Look for organic apple cider vinegar.
2. Using Ointments
2-1. Apply a warm compress to the cyst.
Before you apply any ointments or salves on the cyst, warm it up and encourage it to come closer to the surface by applying a warm wet cloth to the cyst for 10-15 minutes. Check that the compress is warm but not boiling hot, just warmer than the temperature of your skin.
The compress will also keep the area around the cyst clean and better prepare the cyst for the herbal remedies.
2-2. Make a burdock root ointment.
Dry burdock root has been known to help draw out the liquid in cysts. Make a burdock root ointment by combining ½ teaspoon dried burdock root with 1 tablespoon of honey. The honey is antimicrobial and will also help to bring out the liquid in the cyst.
Apply the burdock root ointment to the cyst with a clean finger.
Do not use burdock root if you are pregnant or nursing.
2-3. Try a bloodroot salve.
Bloodroot, or sanguinaria canadensis, has been used in traditional Native American medicine to treat skin disorders. However, the effectiveness of bloodroot has not been independently verified by clinical studies.
Combine ⅛ teaspoon bloodroot powder with 2 tablespoons of castor oil. Apply the salve to the cyst with a Q-tip.
Never use bloodroot salve on any broken or cut skin and use only a small amount at a time. Do not ingest bloodroot or use bloodroot around your eyes or mouth. You should also never apply bloodroot around your genitals.
2-4. Use commercial salves.
You can find commercial salves over the counter at your local drugstore or online. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions and only use the salve on cysts that are on the surface of your skin.
Try PRID, a homeopathic salve that can used to “pull out” splinters, infections, cysts, and to reduce swelling on the skin. Do not use this product on children without first consulting with a homeopathic physician.
Another option is Traditional Amish Salve, which contains comfrey, olive oil, tea tree oil, activated charcoal, bentonite clay, and hone.
3. Going to See a Doctor
3-1. Talk to your doctor if the cyst appears to be infected.
If you notice the cyst has become more swollen, redder, and feels warmer to the touch, it is likely infected. You should talk to a doctor and ask her for suggestions on how to treat the cyst at home. Keep the cyst covered and clean it with a warm compress until you can show it to your doctor.
You should also contact your doctor if the cyst does not improve within 48 hours, despite home treatment.
Do not squeeze or poke at the cyst and make sure you wash your hands before and after you apply any herbal remedies to the cyst.
3-2. Go see a doctor if the cyst is on your eyelid or your genital area.
These areas are very sensitive and you should avoid touching any cysts in these areas. Cyst in these areas can also get infected easily, so they are best treated by a doctor and not at home.
Cyst on your eyelids could be a symptom of blepharitis, which should be treated by cleansing your eye lid and taking antibiotics prescribed by your doctor.
3-3. Let your doctor drain the cyst.
Draining the cyst is a simple, quick procedure that can be done in your doctor’s office. Your doctor may first apply a local anesthetic to the area around the cyst and then make a small incision or cut in the cyst. For some cysts, your doctor may inject a corticosteroid into the cyst. She may then apply light pressure around the cyst to push the contents of the cyst out.
The contents of the cyst may have a foul smell and appear yellowish or cheesy looking. Your doctor will remove the contents as well as the cyst walls so the cyst does not return.
Depending on how deep the cyst is and how big it is, you may require stitches to help the area heal.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:58:48",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Applying Essential Oils and Herbal Treatments\\n1-1. Use a warm compress on the cyst.\\nBefore you put any essential oils or herbal remedies on the cyst, you should warm up the cyst and encourage it to come closer to the surface. You can do this by applying a warm wet cloth to the cyst for 10-15 minutes. The compress should be warm but not boiling hot, just warmer than the temperature of your skin.\\nRepeat this process every couple of hours. It will help to bring blood and infection-fighting white blood cells to the source, in addition to keeping the skin soft so that it can drain.\\nThe compress will also keep the area around the cyst clean and better prepare the cyst for the herbal remedies.\\n1-2. Apply essential oils with a cotton ball or a Q-tip.\\nYou can apply essential oils such as tea tree oil directly onto the cyst with a cotton ball or a Q-tip. This may have anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties. They may possibly help to reduce any swelling around the cyst and lower the risk of infection.\\nYou should only use one essential oil or herbal product at a time, especially if you've never used them before. That way, if your skin gets irritated or you develop an allergy, you will know exactly which oil has caused the problem.\\nIf you have sensitive skin, you can mix the essential oil with castor oil, using three parts essential oil to seven parts castor oil.\\nApply the essential oil to the cyst four times a day and cover the cyst with a bandage after you have applied the oil.\\n1-3. Put aloe vera on the cyst.\\nAloe vera has anti-inflammatory properties and can help to speed up healing. You can put the aloe vera directly on the cyst and then let it dry.\\nYou can find aloe vera at your local health food store or in the beauty section of your local grocery store.\\n1-4. Try witch hazel on the cyst.\\nWitch hazel has astringent qualities, which may help to dry out the cyst. Apply a small amount of witch hazel on a cotton ball or a Q-tip and apply it to the cyst.\\nYou can find witch hazel at your local health food store or online.\\n1-5. Dry out the cyst with apple cider vinegar.\\nApple cider vinegar has acidic properties that can help to dry out the cyst. If you have sensitive skin or it stings when you apply the vinegar, you can dilute the vinegar with one part water to one part apple cider vinegar.\\nApple cider vinegar can be found at your local health food store. Look for organic apple cider vinegar.\\n2. Using Ointments\\n2-1. Apply a warm compress to the cyst.\\nBefore you apply any ointments or salves on the cyst, warm it up and encourage it to come closer to the surface by applying a warm wet cloth to the cyst for 10-15 minutes. Check that the compress is warm but not boiling hot, just warmer than the temperature of your skin.\\nThe compress will also keep the area around the cyst clean and better prepare the cyst for the herbal remedies.\\n2-2. Make a burdock root ointment.\\nDry burdock root has been known to help draw out the liquid in cysts. Make a burdock root ointment by combining ½ teaspoon dried burdock root with 1 tablespoon of honey. The honey is antimicrobial and will also help to bring out the liquid in the cyst.\\nApply the burdock root ointment to the cyst with a clean finger.\\nDo not use burdock root if you are pregnant or nursing.\\n2-3. Try a bloodroot salve.\\nBloodroot, or sanguinaria canadensis, has been used in traditional Native American medicine to treat skin disorders. However, the effectiveness of bloodroot has not been independently verified by clinical studies.\\nCombine ⅛ teaspoon bloodroot powder with 2 tablespoons of castor oil. Apply the salve to the cyst with a Q-tip.\\nNever use bloodroot salve on any broken or cut skin and use only a small amount at a time. Do not ingest bloodroot or use bloodroot around your eyes or mouth. You should also never apply bloodroot around your genitals.\\n2-4. Use commercial salves.\\nYou can find commercial salves over the counter at your local drugstore or online. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions and only use the salve on cysts that are on the surface of your skin.\\nTry PRID, a homeopathic salve that can used to “pull out” splinters, infections, cysts, and to reduce swelling on the skin. Do not use this product on children without first consulting with a homeopathic physician.\\nAnother option is Traditional Amish Salve, which contains comfrey, olive oil, tea tree oil, activated charcoal, bentonite clay, and hone.\\n3. Going to See a Doctor\\n3-1. Talk to your doctor if the cyst appears to be infected.\\nIf you notice the cyst has become more swollen, redder, and feels warmer to the touch, it is likely infected. You should talk to a doctor and ask her for suggestions on how to treat the cyst at home. Keep the cyst covered and clean it with a warm compress until you can show it to your doctor.\\nYou should also contact your doctor if the cyst does not improve within 48 hours, despite home treatment.\\nDo not squeeze or poke at the cyst and make sure you wash your hands before and after you apply any herbal remedies to the cyst.\\n3-2. Go see a doctor if the cyst is on your eyelid or your genital area.\\nThese areas are very sensitive and you should avoid touching any cysts in these areas. Cyst in these areas can also get infected easily, so they are best treated by a doctor and not at home.\\nCyst on your eyelids could be a symptom of blepharitis, which should be treated by cleansing your eye lid and taking antibiotics prescribed by your doctor.\\n3-3. Let your doctor drain the cyst.\\nDraining the cyst is a simple, quick procedure that can be done in your doctor’s office. Your doctor may first apply a local anesthetic to the area around the cyst and then make a small incision or cut in the cyst. For some cysts, your doctor may inject a corticosteroid into the cyst. She may then apply light pressure around the cyst to push the contents of the cyst out.\\nThe contents of the cyst may have a foul smell and appear yellowish or cheesy looking. Your doctor will remove the contents as well as the cyst walls so the cyst does not return.\\nDepending on how deep the cyst is and how big it is, you may require stitches to help the area heal.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Cysts are often found on your face, neck, chest and shoulders. Though cysts usually harmless and will go away on their own, they can be irritating or painful. The following treatments are for infected skin cysts, also known as boils. You can try to treat cysts at home by bringing the cyst “to a head,” where the liquid inside the cyst comes closer to the surface. Often, irritating a cyst in any way can do more harm than good. But with the right technique, you can bring the cyst to a head to speed up its removal.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Applying Essential Oils and Herbal Treatments\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Use a warm compress on the cyst.\", \"描述\": \"Before you put any essential oils or herbal remedies on the cyst, you should warm up the cyst and encourage it to come closer to the surface. You can do this by applying a warm wet cloth to the cyst for 10-15 minutes. The compress should be warm but not boiling hot, just warmer than the temperature of your skin.\\nRepeat this process every couple of hours. It will help to bring blood and infection-fighting white blood cells to the source, in addition to keeping the skin soft so that it can drain.\\nThe compress will also keep the area around the cyst clean and better prepare the cyst for the herbal remedies.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Apply essential oils with a cotton ball or a Q-tip.\", \"描述\": \"You can apply essential oils such as tea tree oil directly onto the cyst with a cotton ball or a Q-tip. This may have anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties. They may possibly help to reduce any swelling around the cyst and lower the risk of infection.\\nYou should only use one essential oil or herbal product at a time, especially if you've never used them before. That way, if your skin gets irritated or you develop an allergy, you will know exactly which oil has caused the problem.\\nIf you have sensitive skin, you can mix the essential oil with castor oil, using three parts essential oil to seven parts castor oil.\\nApply the essential oil to the cyst four times a day and cover the cyst with a bandage after you have applied the oil.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Put aloe vera on the cyst.\", \"描述\": \"Aloe vera has anti-inflammatory properties and can help to speed up healing. You can put the aloe vera directly on the cyst and then let it dry.\\nYou can find aloe vera at your local health food store or in the beauty section of your local grocery store.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Try witch hazel on the cyst.\", \"描述\": \"Witch hazel has astringent qualities, which may help to dry out the cyst. Apply a small amount of witch hazel on a cotton ball or a Q-tip and apply it to the cyst.\\nYou can find witch hazel at your local health food store or online.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Dry out the cyst with apple cider vinegar.\", \"描述\": \"Apple cider vinegar has acidic properties that can help to dry out the cyst. If you have sensitive skin or it stings when you apply the vinegar, you can dilute the vinegar with one part water to one part apple cider vinegar.\\nApple cider vinegar can be found at your local health food store. Look for organic apple cider vinegar.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Using Ointments\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Apply a warm compress to the cyst.\", \"描述\": \"Before you apply any ointments or salves on the cyst, warm it up and encourage it to come closer to the surface by applying a warm wet cloth to the cyst for 10-15 minutes. Check that the compress is warm but not boiling hot, just warmer than the temperature of your skin.\\nThe compress will also keep the area around the cyst clean and better prepare the cyst for the herbal remedies.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Make a burdock root ointment.\", \"描述\": \"Dry burdock root has been known to help draw out the liquid in cysts. Make a burdock root ointment by combining ½ teaspoon dried burdock root with 1 tablespoon of honey. The honey is antimicrobial and will also help to bring out the liquid in the cyst.\\nApply the burdock root ointment to the cyst with a clean finger.\\nDo not use burdock root if you are pregnant or nursing.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Try a bloodroot salve.\", \"描述\": \"Bloodroot, or sanguinaria canadensis, has been used in traditional Native American medicine to treat skin disorders. However, the effectiveness of bloodroot has not been independently verified by clinical studies.\\nCombine ⅛ teaspoon bloodroot powder with 2 tablespoons of castor oil. Apply the salve to the cyst with a Q-tip.\\nNever use bloodroot salve on any broken or cut skin and use only a small amount at a time. Do not ingest bloodroot or use bloodroot around your eyes or mouth. You should also never apply bloodroot around your genitals.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Use commercial salves.\", \"描述\": \"You can find commercial salves over the counter at your local drugstore or online. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions and only use the salve on cysts that are on the surface of your skin.\\nTry PRID, a homeopathic salve that can used to “pull out” splinters, infections, cysts, and to reduce swelling on the skin. Do not use this product on children without first consulting with a homeopathic physician.\\nAnother option is Traditional Amish Salve, which contains comfrey, olive oil, tea tree oil, activated charcoal, bentonite clay, and hone.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Going to See a Doctor\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Talk to your doctor if the cyst appears to be infected.\", \"描述\": \"If you notice the cyst has become more swollen, redder, and feels warmer to the touch, it is likely infected. You should talk to a doctor and ask her for suggestions on how to treat the cyst at home. Keep the cyst covered and clean it with a warm compress until you can show it to your doctor.\\nYou should also contact your doctor if the cyst does not improve within 48 hours, despite home treatment.\\nDo not squeeze or poke at the cyst and make sure you wash your hands before and after you apply any herbal remedies to the cyst.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Go see a doctor if the cyst is on your eyelid or your genital area.\", \"描述\": \"These areas are very sensitive and you should avoid touching any cysts in these areas. Cyst in these areas can also get infected easily, so they are best treated by a doctor and not at home.\\nCyst on your eyelids could be a symptom of blepharitis, which should be treated by cleansing your eye lid and taking antibiotics prescribed by your doctor.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Let your doctor drain the cyst.\", \"描述\": \"Draining the cyst is a simple, quick procedure that can be done in your doctor’s office. Your doctor may first apply a local anesthetic to the area around the cyst and then make a small incision or cut in the cyst. For some cysts, your doctor may inject a corticosteroid into the cyst. She may then apply light pressure around the cyst to push the contents of the cyst out.\\nThe contents of the cyst may have a foul smell and appear yellowish or cheesy looking. Your doctor will remove the contents as well as the cyst walls so the cyst does not return.\\nDepending on how deep the cyst is and how big it is, you may require stitches to help the area heal.\"}]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
Subsets and Splits
No community queries yet
The top public SQL queries from the community will appear here once available.